05 18 2014 San Francisco Chronicle

SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE May 18, 2014 Readership: 1.8 million Cover and page 4: "Missonis Greet the Graduates" May 2014 Graduation Fashion Show and Awards Ceremony http://www.sfgate.com/style/article/Missoni-madness-at-Academy-of-Artgraduate-5482417.php

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exhibition at the de Young Museum, Alcatraz Island and the academy’s antique auto collecStudents are fledglings testing their wings at tion, and dined at the Nob Hill home of Acadethe Academy of Art University, so it should my President Elisa Stephens. come as no surprise that those participating in On the student runway, floral prints with the annual graduation fashion show looked to bird motifs enlivened short dresses, trains and the environment for inspiration for their colleccapes over pants by womenswear designer tions, from fringy, tropically bright dresses to Nicole Bell of Pittsburgh, who collaborated with snowy white menswear and necklaces hewn textile designer Holly Hapka of Columbus, Ind. from slices of wood.

New Mexico jewelry and metal arts designer Color abounded in the looks from womensDale Beevers used root and burl wood, polished wear designer Yuko Okudaira, a native of Japan, bone, coral and horn to fashion oversize neckthanks to a collaboration with Liang “Tim” laces and bracelets that gave an earthy, textural Huo, an animation student and graffiti artist. touch to the monochromatic and minimalist Her dresses, which she described as “femidesigns of Indonesian womenswear designer nine, but carefree,” contained fringe that was Vivian Mazuki. influenced by skateboarders with flowing hair On the menswear front, Seth Olson of Boulin her Mission District neighborhood, while der, Colo., presented a collection of outerwear Huo took cues from the urban jungle and spray- and pants inspired by the contrast between soft painted the white dresses white snow and sharp and fringe in neon hues. cracks in the ice. He felted That use of print and vinyl onto faux fur to create color, along with other porta new surface treatment for folio work, impressed visshiny jackets layered over iting guests Rosita, Angela white nubby pants, and his and Margherita Missoni of fissure print on other coats the Italian knitwear compaand pants was made by ny so much, said a company coating denim with Elmer’s official, that Missoni gave glue and then textile paint, her an internship in Italy. which cracks when it dries.

“It’s a knitwear-focused The technique was somecompany,” said a stunned thing he read about in a Okudaira, who was as over home decor magazine, and the rainbow as the colors in adapted, he said, calling it Drew Altizer Photography her collection. “I wasn’t “a DIY project transitioned Rosita Missoni, in red scarf, with family expecting it at all.” into fashion.”

Bruno Ragazzi (from left), Margherita Some 20 collections from Meanwhile, Esther Shim, Maccapani Missoni, Tommaso Cardile, 30 seniors were shown at a menswear designer from Jennifer Missoni, Eugenio Amos, Angela the event, held May 8 at a San Jose, hand-painted her Missoni (with a hand on her mother), cavernous facility on Jerrold fabrics to create a distressed, Francesco Missoni (tall, in back), Marco Avenue with 1,800 guests camouflage-like effect on her Missoni and Teresa Maccapani Missoni. attending. The academy is full-legged trousers and considered by industry oversize overcoats. professionals to be among the world’s top fashBut it was the real fledglings who stole the ion schools. Each year, a top designer is invited show — pint-size models in the collection by to attend the show, receive an honorary doctorchildren’s wear designer Jordan Rae Epstein of ate and potentially award an internship to a San Mateo, with brightly patterned fabrics by deserving student. Among those who have textile designer Sheni Moshabesha of Lesotho. attended in the past: Azzedine Alaia, Alexander Students also took cues from the rebounding McQueen, Oscar de la Renta and Sarah Burton. economic environment, taking more risks than In 1999, Rosita Missoni and her late husband during the downturn. Pants made of denim were awarded honorary doctorates, so this year, coated with glue and paint might not be marthe degrees went to her daughter, Angela Misketable, but the fashion world isn’t looking for soni, creative director of the house, and Angesafe ideas. la’s daughter Margherita, who is the brand “Times are changing,” said fashion school ambassador for the line and oversees accessodirector Simon Ungless, “and the fashion world ries, children’s wear, beach wear and M. Misis looking for things that are more innovative, in soni’s diffusion line. new textiles, shapes and use of technology.”

Touched by the honor, they brought a party of 10 in all. In addition to speaking at a sympoCarolyne Zinko is a San Francisco Chronicle staff sium for students, hosted by fashion critic Suzy writer. E-mail: czinko@sfchronicle.com Menkes, the family toured the Georgia O’Keeffe Clockwise from top left: The internship-winning work of Yuko Okudaira, a collaboration with Liang “Tim” Huo; Nicole Bell and Holly Hapka’s feminine floral attire; Seth Olson’s novel fabric treatment.