Via | Summer 2019

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SUMMER 2019 The magic of solo travel 36 Gourmet gas stations 20 Six great coast hikes 22 Moving? Here’s your to-do list page 41 Perfect swimming holes + other summer pleasures 30
Visit your local branch Come In 844-298-1527 Call AAA.com/autoinsurance1 Click We protect your car, home, and more. And that’s just the start. AAA Insurance offers a range of options to help you save. Ask your AAA agent about bundling today.
Insurance products in California offered through AAA Northern California Insurance Agency, License #0175868, in Nevada by AAA Nevada, in Utah by AAA Utah, in Arizona through AAA Arizona, Inc., License #8301727, Montana through AAA Montana, Inc., License #9756, and in Wyoming through AAA Mountain West Inc., License No. 172603. The provider of AAA Auto and Home Insurance is CSAA Insurance Group, a AAA Insurer. All policies are subject to policy terms, underwriting, guidelines and applicable laws. ©2019 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. All rights reserved. At AAA, we offer a variety of coverages to fit your needs. In fact, bundling your auto, home, and life insurance can even save you a bundle, while giving you complete peace of mind.

Daily Penguin Feedings

Learn what’s on the menu and chat with a biologist.

Editorial

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Dan Miller

MANAGING EDITOR LeeAnne Jones

SENIOR EDITOR Megan McCrea

EVENTS EDITOR Ethan Fletcher

Design + Production

DESIGN DIRECTOR Monica Ewing

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Amy Mackey

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Veronica Sooley

PHOTO EDITOR Maggie Perkins

Digital

EXECUTIVE DIGITAL PRODUCER Rebecca Harper

DIGITAL MARKETING STRATEGIST Valerie St. John

SOCIAL MEDIA Arthur Ilasco

Advertising

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Ted Welch

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Linda Black, Bruce Colton, Kevin McCaw, Mike Walker

ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Natasha Alcalá

ADVERTISING ACCOUNTING William Nocera

2,810,459 COPIES Subscription rate: AAA primary members, $2 (included in dues).

Change of address: Allow four weeks’ advance notice. Contact AAA at (800) 922-8228. Manuscripts and photos: Query first; Via assumes no responsibility for return of unsolicited material. Reprints from Via: Contents copyrighted 2019 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. No part of Via may be reprinted without written permission.

Contact Via Editorial: Address all mail to Via, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623. viamail@viamagazine.com.

Contact Via Advertising: Address all mail to Via Advertising, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623. Fax (510) 899-0525.

Meet African penguins and nearly 40,000 other creatures at the only aquarium-planetariumrainforest-living museum.

For tickets, buy online at AAA.com/calacademy, visit your local branch, or call 888-890-2470.

Via (ISSN 1093-1716) is published quarterly by AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah, 1277 Treat Blvd., Suite 1000, Walnut Creek, CA 94597. Periodicals Postage: Paid at Walnut Creek, CA, and at additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to Via AAA, P.O. Box 24512, Oakland, CA 94623.

SFI-00993 COVER AND BODY PRINTED ON SFI-CERTIFIED PAPER.
ENCOUNTER A COLONY OF PENGUINS
A SCHOOL OF FISH AND GALAXIES OF STARS all in one day
29437-CAS-Evergreen-Penguin-AAA Via-4.625x9.5-01.03.19-FA.indd 1
A Primary Member may add up to one (1) Associate Member and seven (7) Dependent Associate Members. An Associate Member is another adult person (which can be a spouse) sharing the same residence as one on file for the Primary Member. A Dependent Associate Member is an unmarried child or legal ward of the Primary Member, having the same residence as the one on file for the Primary Member (provided that this residency requirement does not apply to a Dependent Associate Member who is away at school). All applications for, and renewals of, Membership are subject to acceptance by AAA. Visit AAA.com/terms for full Membership terms. ©2019 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. All rights reserved. Add a loved one to your Membership for as little as $34/year. That’s peace of mind for them, and you too. Help your loved ones outsmart life by adding them to your account, so they can enjoy all the same benefits you do. Add a Member today. Visit AAA.com/associate | 800-922-8228 | Visit your local branch
Jurassic World is a trademark and copyright of Universal Studios and Amblin Entertainment, Inc. Licensed by Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. TM & © 2019 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 19-TRA-26532

Walk through Fallen Monarch, a redwood hollowed by fire more than 300 years ago, when you visit Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks. Page 30.

FEATURES

27

Amazing Adventures of Augustus Post

He was an intrepid pioneer of both automobiling and aviation. He also helped start AAA.

BYGARYKAMIYA

30 Your Best Summer

Check off 10 classic warmweather pleasures, from lounging on a houseboat to braving a wild ride on a roller coaster.

BYJENNIFERREESE

36

In Praise of Solo Travel

Hitting the road on your own means freedom, spontaneity, and overcoming doubt.

BYKATESIBER

DEPARTMENTS

8 To Our Members

The list of AAA benefits and services is always expanding.

10 Community

Road safety for older drivers, plus club news and discounts.

13 Smart

Life

Greet summer with cherry picking and catchy tunes. Also: GIG Car Share expands to Sacramento.

17

On the Road

Coastal hikes; gourmet gas station bites; San Francisco’s SoMa shines; epic ice cream in Jamaica; beachcombing beneath the Golden Gate.

41 Smart

Guide

Whether you’re moving now or plan to relocate in a few years, you’ll want this helpful schedule.

46 Spotlight

Andy Warhol works come to San Francisco; the Reno Rodeo celebrates 100 years.

52 #ViaAdventure

Haystack Rock and a colorful kite on Oregon’s Cannon Beach star in this issue’s AAA Member photo.

ANNUAL REPORT

AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah 2018 financial statements are now available. Email club-opssupport@norcal.aaa.com to receive a copy.

ON THE COVER

The McCloud River in Northern California’s Shasta-Trinity National Forest runs steady all year, feeding three swimming holes at the base of waterfalls. Page 30.

AAA | VIA 5 DAVID H. COLLIER; COVER: DAVID HANSON / CAVAN IMAGES CONTENTS Summer 2019 / Vol. 140ca / No. 3
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Long Beach, California has never been more exciting – or delicious. @VisitLB #VisitLB visitlongbeach.com visitlb Visit Long Beach 1,034 likes Add a comment... Who doesn’t like ice cream? Or cupcakes, designer donuts and other dreamy sweets? #VisitLB visitlb Visit Long Beach 2,018 likes Add a comment... Aquabikes, paddleboards or kayaks, great fun in the sun any day of the week! #VisitLB visitlb 1,167 likes Add a comment... The ultimate foodie paradise – brew houses, pie shops, sushi, pizza anyone? #VisitLB So many shops to explore – check out The Pike, Shoreline Village, 2nd Street, Bixby, Retro Row and... well, the list is endless. #VisitLB visitlb Visit Long Beach 1,034 likes Add a comment... Who doesn’t like ice cream? Or cupcakes, designer donuts and other dreamy sweets? #VisitLB something’s always happening.

TO OUR MEMBERS

Striving to serve you better

We’ve been around for more than 117 years. And we never stop striving to give value to our Members every day.

Our core Member benefit is Emergency Road Service. Over 87 percent of Members who use the service are “totally satisfied” with the roadside assistance we provide. Remember, you also have access to our free car battery testing service.

And there is so much more to your AAA Membership. Here are some of the additional ways you can get value from it:

You can save 5 cents per gallon at Shell. Just sign up at AAA.com/shell.

Our convenient GIG Car Share service (gigcarshare.com) is available in the Oakland, Berkeley, and Sacramento, Calif., areas. (See page 14 for more.) It’s so easy to use: fuel, parking, and insurance costs are all included in the fee. GIG uses low- or no-emission vehicles, too. AAA Members save 10 percent.

Free identity theft protection is part of your AAA Membership. All you need to do is enroll online with ProtectMyID (AAA.com/ idtheft). Identity theft is the fastest-growing crime in the United States, with a new victim every two seconds. Our service includes Experian credit monitoring, lost wallet protection, and U.S.–based fraud resolution.

We have also introduced a new home maintenance service. We want to offer the same peace of mind to our Members in their homes that we have provided at the roadside for more than 100 years. AAA House Manager (AAA.com/housemanager) is your trustworthy home maintenance partner. Right now, AAA House Manager is only available in the San Francisco Bay Area. Watch for expanded service territories coming soon.

While we introduce new sources of Member value, our commitment to traffic safety is unwavering. We donated more than 5,000 car seats to community organizations or families in need last year. We have more than 45,000 young people involved in the AAA School Safety Patrol program (AAA.com/schoolsafety). Our Patrollers help keep other students safe on their way to and from school while also learning leadership skills. And we operate the largest autonomous vehicle test facility in America, so we can carefully study the safety aspects of emerging vehicle technologies into the next century.

The amazing AAA journey continues. Thanks for being a Member. ba.

8 VIA | SUMMER 2019 JEFF XANDER
Click: AAA.com/hertz I Call: 1-800-654-3080 I Visit: Your local AAA branch Hertz Gold Plus Rewards® members skip the counter. Join now and earn points toward a free day.* AAA members save up to 30% off the base rate on weekly and weekend rentals.** Use your Club Discount Code and PC# 205024 in your reservation. Get in the car, not the line. We’re here to get you there. *Valid for AAA members with new Hertz Gold Plus Rewards memberships. Join now: AAA.com/hertzgold. Activation points will be received after first paid Gold rental. Taxes and fees excluded. All Hertz Gold Plus Rewards rules apply. **Discount will vary depending on location, date, length of rental, car class and other factors. Discount applies to pay later base rate. Taxes and fees excluded. Promotion Code 205024 and AAA Club Discount Code CDP# must be provided at time of reservation for full-offer discounts. Offer valid for a minimum rental of one (1) day for weekend rentals and five (5) days for weekly rentals. Maximum rental of twenty-seven (27) days. This offer is available at participating Hertz locations in the U.S., Canada and Puerto Rico. Age, driver, credit and qualifying rate restrictions for the renting location apply. Advance reservation required. Offer not valid and rate change or additional fees may apply in the event of reservation modification, early/late vehicle return or if not returning vehicle to renting location. Valid on all car classes except Dream Cars®. Offer has no cash value and may not be used with other discounts, promotions or special rates. Offer valid for vehicle pick-up through 06/30/19. Subject to availability, blackout periods and additional restrictions. At the time of rental, present your AAA membership card or Hertz/AAA discount card for identification. © 2019 Hertz System, Inc. All rights reserved. CS 119044

How older drivers can stay safe on the road

When it comes to safety, senior drivers get a bad rap. But motorists in their mid to late 80s actually have lower crash rates per mile driven than those in their early 20s. Still, due to a variety of factors—including cognitive changes and the side effects of medications—older drivers do face unique challenges. Addressing them can help everyone stay safer on the road.

Get a driving checkup. A licensed driving instructor can conduct an in-car assessment to identify shortcomings, then suggest ways to compensate for them. Simple self-assessment can also be useful. For a handy quiz—along with plenty of other tools for senior drivers—go to seniordriving.aaa.com.

Train your body and mind. Simple fitness programs can improve the strength, flexibility, and endurance you need to drive safely. And brain exercises such as word puzzles can help sharpen your focus behind the wheel.

Check your meds. Medications can have a big impact on driving skills. To find out what effect yours might be having, check out roadwiserx.com.

Adjust to slower reaction times. Planning your route ahead of time, avoiding busy highways, and allowing greater distance between you and the vehicles ahead can all minimize the need to make last-minute decisions. JOSHSENS

Savings on summer fun

Making your summer vacation plans? Be sure to check out AAA discounts on tickets to all kinds of popular attractions, from Disneyland and Universal Studios Hollywood to the Monterey Bay Aquarium and the San Diego Zoo Safari Park.

↘ AAA.com/discounts CLUB

Priority Pass airport lounges

If those summer travel plans include flying, you should know that your AAA card can also save you 25 percent on a standard Priority Pass membership, which grants you access to 1,200 exclusive airport lounges all over the world.

↘ AAA.com/prioritypass

Top shops for car repairs

Want the best mechanic for your car? Of course you do. Check out the 25 winners on the latest Top Shops list from AAA Approved Auto Repair to find trustworthy car care near you.

↘ AAA.com/topshops

10 VIA | SUMMER 2019 BOJANSTORY / ISTOCK
COMMUNITY
NEWS
DIRECTIONS
GOOD
Discover TV that Travels with You Requires antenna and receiver purchase. Monthly fees and limits on number and type of receivers will apply. All prices, packages, programming, features, functionality and o ers subject to change without notice. All charges, including monthly programming, pay-per-view and equipment upgrades, must be paid in advance; failure to pay by due date will lead to service disconnection within 24 hours. O er available for new and qualified former customers. Additional Watch live news, sports, and weather on the road with a DISH Outdoors portable satellite antenna, and only pay for the months you use. Call 855-DISH-RVTV or visit dishoutdoors.com • A ordable portable satellite antennas. • Fast, simple setup – no Wi-Fi required! • You don’t need DISH at home to get HD TV outdoors. • Existing customers can get DISH Outdoors for only $7/mo.! Pay-As-You-Go packages from 37 99 /mo.

Exploring you in a world of we. May 23–Sep. 2

Dive

Rated #1 Museum in San Francisco on TripAdvisor Pier 15 • San Francisco

for AAA Members at AAA.com/exploratorium
Exclusive Savings
Explo_SM_AAA_ViaMag_halfpage_cmyk.indd 1 3/11/19 12:46 PM
into the universe of you and explore the endlessly amazing layers that make up your personal identity—and everyone else's. exploratorium.edu/self

Smart Life

5 things to do now

Summer is coming! Inflate your tires and check your finances, then head out for fruit picking, hiking, and more fun in the sun.

Harvest your dessert. Many u-pick farms open to the public in mid- to late May, welcoming visitors to pluck the first tangy berries of the season. For a list of fill-your-barrel locations in the West, visit AAA.com/summerfruit.

Dive into your finances. See how you’re faring halfway through the year. Run a credit report and spend a month carefully tracking expenses. This can help you tweak your financial goals and manage your investments to reach them.

5 4 3 2 1

Pump your tires. Cruising on underinflated tires can cause them to overheat, which increases the risk of blowout. On hot days, that risk rises. Tires lose one to two pounds of pressure per month through normal use—so check them often. For hit-the-road wisdom, visit AAA.com/tiresafety.

Make your getaway. Traveling in off-peak seasons can nab you better prices on airfare, rental cars, and hotel rooms. Mountain destinations that cater to skiers in winter and hikers in summer— think Sun Valley, Idaho, and Jackson Hole, Wyo.— frequently offer great deals in May.

Find your jam. What will the song of the summer be? No one knows, but it will surely be fun to stream the hits all season long. AAA Members who sign up for Pandora Premium for the first time receive 90 days free. For more information, visit AAA.com/pandora.

AAA | VIA 13 MAURO
/
GRIGOLLO
STOCKSY The Northwest’s popular bing cherry satisfies a sweet tooth—without guilt.
SMART LIST
KRISTENMASCIA

GOING ELECTRIC

SMART IDEA

GIG comes to Sacramento

Experts predict that, in the future, most cars will be shared, electric, and capable of driving themselves. That future has arrived early in Sacramento, where AAA recently launched the biggest all-electric car-sharing service in the country.

The new Sacramento service works the same way as the original GIG service that was rolled out in Berkeley and Oakland, Calif., in 2017: You download an app to your smartphone, use it to locate and unlock the car you want to use, and then get in and go. You can drive your GIG car wherever you

want, then return it to any legal parking spot in the service’s HomeZone (in this case, a 13-square-mile area in central Sacramento). Other car-sharing services require you to return vehicles to designated parking areas.

The biggest difference between this new GIG service and the original in the Bay Area is that all the cars in the Sacramento fleet run fully on electricity. The cars are periodically recharged as needed, but if you need more juice, you can stop by any of the charging stations inside the HomeZone.

In 2018, an estimated 1 million electric vehicles were on the road in the U.S.

“Sacramento is one of the greenest cities in the United States,” says Jason Haight, president of GIG Car Share. “We’re thrilled to launch a new, easy mobility solution there that’s both affordable and zeroemission and that we think will really benefit the community.”

Pricing is based on usage and includes insurance and parking in the HomeZone; AAA Members get a 10 percent discount. There’s no sign-up fee.

It’s just one more way AAA is evolving to help Members in the rapidly changing world of mobility.

14 VIA | SUMMER 2019 COURTESY ELECTRIFY AMERICA
SMART LIFE

San Francisco Bay Dream House OR Up to $4 Million in Cash

ABOUT THE RAFFLE

Tickets are $150 each, 3-packs for $400 each or 5-packs for $550 each. The Grand Prize Winner chooses either the San Francisco Bay Dream House or up to $4 million in cash. 2,300 total prizes will be given away including cars, vacations, and electronics. The odds of winning a prize are 1 in 30. Individuals who purchase three or more tickets are automatically entered into the Multi-Ticket drawing for a Porsche 718 Cayman or $50,000. Raffle subject to rules and regulations found on SFRaffle.com. If fewer than 65,000 tickets are sold the grand prize will become a cash amount equal to half the net proceeds, not to exceed $4 million.

ABOUT THE DREAM HOUSE

This exquisite Muir Beach home totals over 4,600 square feet on five levels. The home features 4 bedrooms, 4 baths, pool, and stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. Close enough for a San Francisco commuter but remote enough for the ideal weekend getaway.

BENEFITING YBCA

Yerba Buena Center for the Arts celebrates it's 25th Anniversary this year. Our mission is to generate culture that moves people, because culture is an essential catalyst for change. From leading edge exhibitions, performances and films, to groundbreaking civic programs, YBCA pursues bold new ways to transform our lives and cities through art. Your support via the raffle has raised millions for YBCA. It has enabled us to re-imagine what an art center can be, and how it can serve our citizens. Thank you. (YBCA.org)

GET YOUR TICKETS TODAY! 800-870-7886 • SFRAFFLE.COM Eleventh Annual SAN FRANCISCO BAY DREAM HOUSE RAFFLE TO BENEFIT YERBA BUENA CENTER FOR THE ARTS 1 in 30 Odds of Winning | Over 2,300 Prizes | $9 Million in Prizes
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On the Road

The golden shore

With the famous span of the Golden Gate Bridge photobombing in the backdrop, Kirby Cove has long been Instagram ready. Not that you should count on clear cell phone reception when you reach this curl of coastline at the edge of Golden Gate National Recreation Area, some three miles north—as the seagull flies—of San Francisco. A visit here involves a mile-long hike through fragrant groves of cypress and eucalyptus down to a beach kissed by white waves. Snagging one of Kirby’s five campsites requires reservations, but a day trip can be spontaneous. Shed your shoes, stroll the sands, and cast your gaze across the water to a city that looks close enough to touch, even as it lingers at a beautiful remove. JOSHSENS

AAA | VIA 17
DAVID H. COLLIER
PUT YOURSELF HERE

Devon House, Jamaica

Walk past the manicured hedges, classical fountain, and neat row of palms, and you’ll arrive at Devon House, the former home of George Stiebel, Jamaica’s first black millionaire. Note the open front door: Though the mansion brims with the trappings of 19th-century wealth, it feels friendly and approachable. Guided tours take visitors through the dining room where a grandfather clock tracks the time and porcelain cups and saucers sit on a Chippendale table. A crystal chandelier still hangs in the grand ballroom.

Outside, locals and travelers queue up near the property’s shops and eateries, awaiting scoops of Kingston-churned Devon House ice cream. The flavors range from classic (pistachio, chocolate) to classically Caribbean. One stars Dragon Stout, a malty local brew; another features soursop, a tropical fruit with a sweet yet tart flavor. Jamaican patties—pastries filled with lobster, beef, or other meats—practically fly out of the bakery. Spend a few hours here to experience the true richness of Jamaica, then and now. CHRISWOOLSTON

A tropical vacation promises plenty of time to lounge poolside and relax at the spa. But there’s also a lot to see beyond your resort. Many properties back up to private beachfronts that adjoin public beaches. You might walk along them to get a sense of the local scene without straying too far.

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ON THE ROAD TRIP TIP Beyond the resort ↘ PLANNING A TRIP? AAA Travel can help you chart a course for your next getaway. Visit AAA .com/travel or call (877) 835-2233.

To some, sunglasses are a fashion accessory…

But When Driving, These Sunglasses May Save Your Life!

Drivers’ Alert: Driving can expose you to more dangerous glare than any sunny day at the beach can…do you know how to protect yourself?

The sun rises and sets at peak travel periods, during the early morning and afternoon rush hours and many drivers find themselves temporarily blinded while driving directly into the glare of the sun. Deadly accidents are regularly caused by such blinding glare with danger arising from reflected light off another vehicle, the pavement, or even from waxed and oily windshields that can make matters worse. Early morning dew can exacerbate this situation.

Yet, motorists struggle on despite being blinded by the sun’s glare that can cause countless accidents every year.

Not all sunglasses are created equal. Protecting your eyes is serious business. With all the fancy fashion frames out there it can be easy to overlook what really matters––the lenses. So we did our research and looked to the very best in optic innovation and technology.

Sometimes it does take a rocket scientist. A NASA rocket scientist. Some ordinary sunglasses can obscure your vision by exposing your eyes to harmful UV rays, blue light, and reflective glare. They can also darken useful vision-enhancing light. But now, independent research conducted by scientists from NASA’s Jet Propulsion

Slip on a pair of Eagle Eyes® and everything instantly appears more vivid and sharp. You’ll immediately notice that your eyes are more comfortable and relaxed and you’ll feel no need to squint. The scientifically designed sunglasses are not just fashion accessories—they are necessary to protect your eyes from those harmful rays produced by the sun during peak driving times.

technology to help protect human eyesight

Laboratory has brought forth ground-breaking technology to help protect human eyesight from the harmful effects of solar radiation light. This superior lens technology was first discovered when NASA scientists looked to nature for a means to superior eye protection—specifically, by studying the eyes of eagles, known for their extreme visual acuity. This discovery resulted in what is now known as Eagle Eyes®

Gold

The Only Sunglass Technology Certified by the Space Foundation for UV and Blue-Light Eye Protection. Eagle Eyes® features the most advanced eye protection technology ever created. The TriLenium® Lens Technology offers triple-filter polarization to block 99.9% UVA and UVB—plus the added benefit of blue-light eye protection. Eagle Eyes® is the only optic technology that has earned official recognition from the Space Certification Program for this remarkable technology. Now, that’s proven science-based protection.

Navigator™ Gold Stainless Steel Sunglasses

The finest optics: And buy one, get one FREE! Eagle Eyes® has the highest customer satisfaction of any item in our 20 year history. We are so excited for you to try the Eagle Eyes® breakthrough technology that we will give you a second pair of Eagle Eyes® Navigator™ Sunglasses FREE––a $59.95 value!

That’s two pairs to protect your eyes with the best technology available for less than the price of one pair of traditional sunglasses. You get a pair of Navigators with stainless steel black frames and the other with stainless steel gold, plus one hard zipper case and one micro-fiber drawstring cleaning pouch are included. Keep one pair in your pocket and one in your car. Your satisfaction is 100% guaranteed. If you are not astounded with the Eagle Eyes® technology, enjoying clearer, sharper and more glare-free vision, simply return one pair within 30 days for a full refund of the purchase price. The other pair is yours to

Black

Certified EAGLE EYES® was developed from original NASA Optic technology and was recently inducted into the Space Foundation Technology Hall of Fame.

keep. No one else has such confidence in their optic technology. Don’t leave your eyes in the hands of fashion designers, entrust them to the best scientific minds on earth. Wear your Eagle Eyes® Navigators with absolute confidence, knowing your eyes are protected with technology that was born in space for the human race.

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design

Gas station gourmet

You’re sure to find Flamin’ Hot Cheetos and Slim Jims at almost any of the country’s nearly 122,000 gas stations with convenience stores. But delicious, cooked-to-order fare? That’s much less likely, unless your travels take you to one of these amazing eateries that just happens to call a filling station home.

● The wild buffalo meat loaf au jus, or the ahi sashimi? Maybe fish tacos with mango salsa and ginger coleslaw? There are no bad choices at Whoa Nellie Deli, a restaurant at the Mobil station at the intersection of U.S. Route 395 and Highway 120 in Lee Vining, Calif., the eastern gateway to Yosemite. Open from late April to early November,

Whoa Nellie has a glorious grassy picnic area out front, with a sweeping view of Mono Lake and live tunes on Thursdays and Sundays.

● Tucked behind a Sinclair station in Logan, Utah, Tandoori Oven has offered outstanding renditions of Indian restaurant staples for over 15

NICOLE MORGENTHAU DINING CREDIT * RECEIVE A $50 AND FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE VISIT FAIRMONT.COM/AAA-VIA, CALL 1 877 256 7700 OR CONTACT YOUR AAA TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL (PLEASE USE PROMOTION CODE PAAH ) UP TO 35% OFF From Whistler to Toronto, Seattle to Bermuda, make your getaway even more enjoyable by taking advantage of this exclusive offer, valid at participating Fairmont hotels. *Offers valid on stays until December 31, 2019, unless otherwise noted. Based on double occupancy in a Fairmont room and subject to availability at time of reservation at participating locations. AAA Membership card must be presented at time of check-in. Gratuities and taxes extra. Some exceptions apply. Minimum two-night consecutive stay required unless otherwise noted. The $50 dining credit will be applied in the currency of the host hotel, and will be applied at the time of checkout against select food and/or beverage charges applied to the room portfolio. For full terms and conditions, please visit fairmont.com/aaa-via 11:08AM e moment your only to-do was choosing between beach and spa. Fairmont Southampton, Bermuda 14068_Accor-FHR-VIA-031419_FA.indd 1 2019-03-13 11:31 AM ON THE ROAD TASTES
extraordinary eats
↘ Find
at service station restaurants. Seriously.
Chicken tikka two ways at Utah’s Tandoori Oven.

years. But in addition to the crispyshelled vegetable samosas and aromatic chicken biryani, the menu holds unexpected delights, such as a fish tikka masala featuring salmon simmered in deeply spiced tomato-cream sauce.

● You can smell the succulent meats at Blue’s BBQ, an eatery in a Cenex in Billings, Mont., long before you taste them. Stoked with a blend of hardwoods, its 10-foot-long smokers cook baby back ribs, brisket, and more. Anoint your choice cut with the house sauce—spicy or mild—add pit-baked beans and coleslaw or potato salad, and you’ve got some serious ’cue.

● The pizza oven stars at the tiny Gourmet Deli at 76, not far off I-80 in Fernley, Nev., a small town just east of Reno. Its pies have been hailed as among the state’s best, with house-made dough and tomato sauce, beautifully blistered crust, and toppings ranging from pepperoni to jalapeños. The oven also produces warm, pillowy naan—cooked individually for each order—that makes a perfect partner to servings of lamb shawarma and falafel with hummus.

● A roadside attraction since the 1920s, Dateland appears like a mirage as you’re driving through the desert on I-8 between Gila Bend and Yuma in southwestern Arizona. Outside, there’s a date grove. Inside, the food court is an oasis of date treats: ice cream, pies, muffins, cookies, and bread—but above all, milk shakes. To make the shakes liquid enough to sip with a straw, the chefs use only one type of date: the thinner-skinned, melt-in-your-mouth medjool, a variety once reserved for Moroccan royalty.

CHRISTOPHERHALL There’s an Electric Car for everyone Up to $7,000 for purchase or lease of a new vehicle CleanVehicleRebate.org/Via C M Y CM MY CY CMY K San Francisco’s premier cultural destinations! deyoungmuseum.org legionofhonor.org Via Magazine Summer2019 FINAL.indd 1 3/12/19 10:20 AM

Coastal walks

↘ Beautiful beaches, panoramic vistas, and fresh salt air await hikers who venture to the edge of the continent.

“At the start of the trail to Tomales Point, in California’s Point Reyes National Seashore, swallows dart in and out of old farm buildings. Continue along the nine-mile outand-back trail, and you’ll see cormorant antics and a quilt of wildflowers. Afterward, head to McClures Beach to walk in the sand.” MARYJOYRENFRO

“The moment you spot the finlike rock jutting from the water in Shark Fin Cove, you’ll realize how the area got its name. I love this hike near Davenport, Calif., because it’s beautiful, and the path down to the beach is fairly short.” MARGARETCARTHELL

“I love exploring the Point Arena–Stornetta Public Lands in Northern California. Walk the headlands and you’ll see waves crashing, sinkholes where water washes in through tunnels, and in the distance, the lighthouse.” LEONARDSCHWAB

ASHLEY MERSEREAU / TANDEM STOCK
MEMBERS’ FAVORITE
ON THE ROAD

“I love climbing Neahkahnie Mountain on the Oregon Coast. The north trail winds through a forest and up to a rocky summit. From there, you have a view of Nehalem Bay, the city of Manzanita, and miles of gorgeous coastline.”

“Whenever I’m driving along the Oregon Coast, I always try to stop at Cape Perpetua Scenic Area. The Saint Perpetua Trail is short and steep. Once you reach the summit, though, it’s worth the climb. You’re 800 feet above the water, and the views extend for miles in both directions.” BARBARAVAUGHAN

“I like to call Devil’s Slide Trail, near Pacifica, Calif., ‘Another Day in Paradise.’ The 1.3-mile-long path hugs the coast high above the Pacific. Seabirds congregate on the rocks below, and raptors soar overhead.” VIRGINIALARSON

NEXT QUESTION

Where in the West is your favorite fireplace to curl up next to?

↘ Email us at otr@viamagazine .com. You may be quoted in a future issue.

Wings of Freedom Tour COLLINGS FOUNDATION For FLIGHT RESERVATIONS, directions and information see our web site or call. www.cfdn.org 800.568.8924 *Dates & locations subject to change. See web site for most current schedule. Let’s Go! Visiting: Moffett / Mt. View May 17th to 25th b-17 flying fortress P-51 Mustang b-24 liberator b-25 Mitchell P-40 warhawk Livermore May 26th to 28th Sacramento May 31st to June 2nd Napa June 3rd to 6th Concord June 6th to 9th New to tour! VISITSOUTHIDAHO.COM Explore thousands of breathtaking waterfalls, including Shoshone Falls, the
of the West. Spring is when waters are at their highest – and their most astounding.
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Niagara

San Francisco’s SoMa

↘ Head south of Market for sculpture gardens, burger bots, and Ping-Pong.

Thirty years ago, San Francisco’s South of Market neighborhood—or SoMa— was best known for its warehouses. Now it’s home to the San Francisco Giants (at Oracle Park), the city’s tallest building (Salesforce Tower), and a world-class art collection (San Francisco Museum of Modern Art). But amid those marquee attractions are plenty of other delights.

● San Francisco’s downtown core is dotted with privately owned public spaces. SoMa’s best is the garden at 555 Mission Street Plaza. Look for a colorful, 36 -foot tower of pixelated figures by artist Jonathan Borofsky, a leafy green living wall, and Ugo Rondinone’s trio of whimsical characters that look like they were plucked from a Tim Burton animation.

● The San Francisco Bay Area’s foodie and tech worlds meet at Creator, where gourmet burgers are made to order on a sleek, roboticized assembly line. Diners can watch toppings being sliced, cheese getting

grated, and condiments dispensed as the automated device puts together the meaty sandwiches, some designed by notable local chefs. Best of all, these futuristic burgers sport the very retro price of $6.

● Around the corner from SFMOMA and Yerba Buena Gardens cultural center, the Museum of the African Diaspora showcases contemporary works from an international roster of artists with links to Africa. Captivating aesthetics and social commentary frequently mix in exhibits such as Coffee, Rhum, Sugar & Gold: A Postcolonial Paradox, which explores the legacy of colonialism through the Caribbean’s exports.

● Ping-Pong gets the nightclub treatment at Spin, a stylish venue decked out with street art, lounge seating, a bouncy sound track, and up to 18 tables. Onehand snacks, such as fried chicken sliders, let you nosh while you play; regular events draw pro paddlers.

24 VIA | SUMMER 2019 TOP: COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF THE AFRICAN
PICK
DIASPORA; BOTTOM: AUBRIE
GARRICKRAMIREZ
TOP: The Museum of the African Diaspora hosts more than a dozen exhibitions yearly. BOTTOM: Creator’s burger machine slices toppings.
WEEKENDER ON THE ROAD
Specialty insurance products offered through AAA are underwritten by partnering insurance entities, and subject to policy terms, underwriting, guidelines, and applicable laws of those affiliated insurers. See AAA website (https://calstate.aaa.com/insurance/motorcycle-boat-rv) for more details. ©2019 AAA Northern California, Nevada, Utah. All rights reserved. Two wheels. Four wheels. A house on wheels. We cover them all. At AAA, we’re here for all your auto, home and life insurance needs. In fact, bundling them all can even save you a bundle. Not only that, AAA also offers coverage to protect your boat, motorcycle, and RV for complete peace of mind wherever you go. Ask an agent for details | 844-759-2187 | AAA.com/special2

The 15th-century figures who inspired the phrase Renaissance man set a high bar for versatility. Leonardo da Vinci was a painter, sculptor, physicist, inventor, philosopher, astronomer, and naturalist. His contemporary Leon Battista Alberti was an architect, artist, poet, and cryptographer who could reportedly jump over the head of a man standing next to him.

There are few 20th-century examples of such multifaceted genius. But one modern-day New Yorker comes close. Augustus Post was a pioneering automobile driver and airplane pilot, a balloonist, and an accomplished outdoorsman, author, actor, lecturer, and musician. And in case you’re wondering why you’re reading about him here, Post also helped found AAA.

Yet he is almost completely unknown today.

Augustus Post was born in Brooklyn in 1873. Raised in affluence, he was noted in high school for his singing and banjo skills. He attended Amherst College, where he competed as a speed walker. Then, after attending Harvard Law School, he discovered his life’s obsession with transportation.

The amazing adventures of AUGUSTUS POST

He was an intrepid pioneer of both automobiling and aviation. He was also a founder of AAA.

Post bought his first car at a motorcycle rally in 1898. Two years later, he commissioned a steampowered car from auto manufacturer Thomas White. In 1903, after he and a friend drove that White Steamer from Pittsburgh to New York, Post made the visionary suggestion that, if the old pike road in Pennsylvania were resurfaced, it could become “the first link in the transcontinental boulevard.” The Good Roads movement that Post ardently supported culminated in 1913 with the opening of the Lincoln Highway from New York to San Francisco. One section of it indeed went through Pittsburgh.

In 1904, Post helped launch an auto race from New York to St. Louis, Mo., which became an annual event known as the Glidden Tours. Along the route of the race, thousands of small-town Americans turned out to watch—and, in many cases, get their first glimpse of this new technology.

Post was the first person to drive a car in New York City, established the city’s first parking garage, and received its first speeding ticket. (He was going five miles per hour in Central Park.)

AAA | VIA 27 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

As cars became more common, auto clubs began to spring up across the country, campaigning for better roads. Post helped promote the formation of such clubs, and ended up taking on leadership positions within the nascent American Automobile Association in its first years of existence.

In an age when ballooning was wildly popular, Post was also one of the great aeronauts. He gained fame for his exploits in the Gordon Bennett Cup, a balloon race that’s still going strong, which rewards the balloonist who flies farthest from a starting point. Post competed for the cup five times, surviving a hair-raising crash in 1908 when his balloon dropped 3,000 feet and plunged through the roof of a house in a Berlin suburb.

Post production

Augustus Post led the kind of life that makes people say, “That sounds like a movie.” Which is just what AAA has made: a short documentary about Post, titled The Unforgettable Augustus Post and produced by John Moreno (of A3 Productions) in association with Bread and Butter Films, with animation by WeWereMonkeys. It’s expected to hit the film festival circuit later this year.

In 1910, he and a partner set off from St. Louis, landing two days later in a remote Canadian wilderness. Using the outdoors skills he had learned as a youth, he helped his injured friend make it to a nearby town. (Post was an original member of the Society of the Sons of Daniel Boone—a precursor to the Boy Scouts.) New York received them with a hero’s welcome. The distance and duration records they set for the race—1,173 miles in 44 hours, 25 minutes—remained unsurpassed for 95 years.

The sangfroid that Post developed as a balloonist served him well as a pilot. In 1908—after wrecking several planes, which some of his friends facetiously blamed on his then unusual Vandyke beard—he became the 13th man in the United States to successfully fly. As he had done with the automobile, Post proselytized for air travel, advocating for the creation of an airmail service, coining the term airport, and encouraging women and minorities to fly. During World War I, he supported American pilots in England and France, and acted as a Four-Minute Man, delivering quick public speeches urging his countrymen to back the war effort.

Not satisfied with being a groundbreaking driver, virtuoso balloonist, daredevil pilot, and transportation visionary, Post also appeared as an actor (in 103 performances of a Broadway show called Omar the Tentmaker); wrote books, poems, and the libretto for an opera; and gained fame for his ability to imitate the sounds of aircraft and birds.

Post died of a heart attack in 1952 at the age of 78. By the end of his astonishing life, the two forms of transportation that he championed in their infancy—the automobile and the airplane—had conquered the world. ●

gary kamiya is the author of Cool Gray City of Love: 49 Views of San Francisco.

28 VIA | SUMMER 2019
HISTORY AND ART COLLECTION / ALAMY; BOTTOM: WEWEREMONKEYS
TOP: Augustus Post behind the wheel—dressed in au courant driving coat and cap—during the 1905 Glidden Tour. Middle Falls on McCloud River.

Your BEST summer

Check off 10 classic pleasures, from lounging on a houseboat to braving a wild ride on a roller coaster.

1Take a dip in a swimming hole

A trip to a swimming hole typically means following vague word-of-mouth directions for a hike on a blazing-hot day. Is it really worth making the sweaty trek? Will the directions pan out? The answer to both is almost invariably yes. Unlike a pool or a beach, a swimming hole feels like a special secret, even when it’s not. A series of waterfalls on the McCloud River, southeast of California’s Mount Shasta, spill into three pretty, inviting pools. For a family-friendly splash (easy and swimsuited), stick to the base of gentle Lower Falls.

→ A 3.5-mile desert hike outside Sedona, Ariz., takes you to a welcome and unexpected oasis: the Crack at Wet Beaver Creek, a pool surrounded by steep orange rock walls. Sunbathe on the sandstone or plunge into the cool water.

→ The name Firehole River might lead you to believe that its wide, popular swimming hole —in Yellowstone National Park, just off Highway 191 in northwestern Wyoming— is warm. It’s not. On a hot day, of course, that’s a plus.

→ The emerald-green Opal Creek Pools near central Oregon, flanked by lush forest and mossy boulders, are far too beautiful to be kept secret. Weekday mornings are best for a swim, if you want these magical pools to yourself.

AAA | VIA 31
DAVID HANSON / CAVAN IMAGES

2

Visit a national park

Since the dawn of the automobile age, touring U.S. national parks has been the quintessential family summer vacation—parents in the front seat fiddling with the map (or GPS) and kids in the back behaving like angels. More than 300 million visitors take a trip to one or more of the country’s 61 national parks each year, from Alaska’s Denali to Oregon’s Crater Lake. They camp, raft, swim, hike, bird-watch, and summit peaks, but also stroll, sightsee, and buy tchotchkes. Think of almost anything travelers like to do, and there’s opportunity for it at a national park. Even the easiest hikes at southeastern Utah’s Zion, such as the mile-long Canyon Overlook trail, offer great views of the park’s standout feature: its dramatic sandstone cliffs. For bigger thrills, head to Zion’s Narrows for an upstream wade through the Virgin River with 1,000-foot walls rising above you on either side.

→ At California’s Sequoia & Kings Canyon you can visit stout General Sherman, the world’s largest tree, and gaze upward as you wander the surrounding groves. Or tackle Mount Whitney, the highest point in the contiguous United States.

→ At Yellowstone, the country’s first national park, you’ll fi nd 10,000 hydrothermal features and 500 geysers,

the world’s biggest log hotel (the Old Faithful Inn), and local huckleberry ice cream.

→ The colorful, sculptural rock formations throughout Petrified Forest in eastern Arizona are one reason to visit. The Ancestral Puebloan people’s uses for that rock, such as building the eight-room Agate House more than 900 years ago, are another.

3

Watch a movie in your car

In an era when people increasingly stream movies alone at home, a communal night at the drive-in can feel like an old-fashioned party, an iconic pleasure most of us have experienced only secondhand, depicted on a small screen. At several outdoor theaters, including the West Wind in Las Vegas, you can wear your pajamas, bring your own snacks, and set up folding chairs under the stars—or snuggle in the backseat.

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NEWS BUREAU / LAS VEGAS CONVENTION AND VISITORS AUTHORITY
TOP: NATHANIEL POLTA
TANDEM STOCK; BOTTOM: LAS VEGAS
Las Vegas’s West Wind drive-in theater. The Narrows at Zion National Park.

4

Listen to music outdoors

Whether you’re catching a bring-your-own-blanket bluegrass show in the park or Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat at a high-desert amphitheater, outdoor music can be one of the finest joys of summer. That pleasure comes not just from song, but also from the sky, the sun, the stars, and the freedom of having no walls—not to mention the celebratory atmosphere. At Red Rocks Park and Amphitheatre just outside Denver, two sandstone monoliths, each higher than Niagara Falls, frame the striking 9,500-seat venue. They create superb acoustics for acts such as the Avett Brothers and Diana Ross. Bonus: Before or after the show, visit the on-site Colorado Music Hall of Fame.

5

Go for an amusement park thrill

→ Hold off eating cotton candy until after you ride Cannibal. The coaster at Utah’s Lagoon, just north of Salt Lake City, features the steepest plunge in the United States.

→ At retro-cool Oaks Park in Portland, built in 1905, the year-old Adrenaline Peak competes with delightfully quaint attractions such as go-karts and mini golf.

→ If the Big Apple Coaster at Las Vegas’s New York–New York doesn’t seem

scary enough, you can ride while wearing virtual reality goggles. What you see won’t match what you feel in the pit of your stomach.

→ Disneyland’s new Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge attraction, due to open in May, lets visitors walk through a simulated planet Batuu and pilot the Millennium Falcon.

→ Only hard-core thrill seekers should try the SpinCycle at Silverwood near Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.

→ Outside Lands in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park (Aug. 9–11 this year) draws headliners such as Paul Simon, Childish Gambino, and Kacey Musgraves over three days that can feel like a raucous garden party. The food—from wood-fired pizza to artisanal ice cream—is also outstanding.

→ Spend the morning chilling in an inner tube on the Jefferson River southwest of Three Forks, Mont., because from midafternoon until the wee hours you’ll be dancing to ’70s and ’80s throwback acts such as glam band Warrant and Foreigner front man Lou Gramm at Rockin’ the Rivers (Aug. 8–10).

→ The pink cliffs at Tuacahn Center for the Arts, in southern Utah, dazzle as brilliantly as its summertime Broadway revivals. This year’s musicals include The Little Mermaid and The Sound of Music.

Riders are strapped to a spinning wheel at the end of a swinging pendulum that builds momentum until it makes a full circle.

Red Rocks Park and Amphitheatre.
TOP: COURTESY
/
PARK
Silverwood’s SpinCycle.
STEVE CRECELIUS
VISIT DENVER; BOTTOM: COURTESY SILVERWOOD THEME

6

Stroll a beach boardwalk

Since 1870, when the first beach boardwalk went up in Atlantic City, N.J., folks have flocked to these festive seaside esplanades for fresh salt air, carnival rides, arcade games, and nutritious delicacies such as corn dogs and deep-fried Twinkies. On the boardwalk (and, as the Drifters sang, under it) you’ll be having some fun. At Northern California’s classic Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, opened in 1907, you can watch sea lions lounging on the pier, stock up on saltwater taffy, play laser tag, and enjoy (or avoid) a whirl on the 95-year-old wooden coaster, the Giant Dipper.

→ Palm trees line the Strand, a busy beachside thoroughfare leading from the Santa Monica Pier to Venice, Calif. (home of bodybuilder hangout Muscle Beach). The path makes for a people-watcher’s dream—and you can walk its entire 2.7 miles in about an hour.

→ Seattle’s waterfront, due to be expanded and thoroughly revamped by 2024, encompasses the aquarium (irresistibly cute otters), the 175-foot

Great Wheel (spectacular city views), and the Edgewater Hotel (tasty truffle fries at happy hour).

→ Among the sweet, sparkling highlights of the quarter-mile Historic Bayfront in Newport, Ore., are views of the art deco Yaquina Bay Bridge, restaurants serving freshly caught Dungeness crab, and nautical murals that form part of the Oregon Coast Public Art Trail, a work in progress.

Try a cool new flavor 7

→ Taste ice cream terroir at Boise’s Stil. The Idaho Wilderness flavor is made from local lavender, honey, and berries (huckle, blue, black).

→ Like its Portland original, Salt & Straw’s San Francisco outpost lets hometown ingredients shine, as in Sightglass cold brew in coffee-andcaramelized-cashew ice cream.

→ Most flavors rotate at Cool Moon in Portland, but not the kulfi. Based on an Indian dessert flavored with pistachio, cardamom, and rose water, this treat is wildly popular.

→ Vanilla hardly seems plain when mixed with a goody of your choice, spread thin, frozen solid, and scraped into tidy scrolls, Thai style, at Roll with It in Provo, Utah.

→ At international Popbar, with shops in Arizona and California, gelato and sorbet arrive on a stick. Try the raspberry PopSorbetto dipped in chocolate—rich and refreshing.

34 VIA | SUMMER 2019
TOP: ROBERT HARDING / ALAMY; BOTTOM: JENELLE BONIFIELD Popbar sorbet. Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk.

Enjoy a state fair

State fairs evolved as a way to showcase a given region’s farm bounty, from its sturdiest heifers to the finest in local peach preserves, with carnival rides, food stalls, and concerts to keep people entertained between poultry expos and livestock auctions. No two state fairs are quite the same, just as no two communities are quite the same. Consider Washington’s Evergreen State Fair (Aug. 22–Sept. 2 this year) in the city of Monroe. You can take in duck races, Aztec Indian dance performances, and lumberjack skill demos, as well as the Purple Cow float. Made of blackberry ice cream, blackberry syrup, and 7 Up, it has been staining T-shirts since 1960.

→ A curious draw at the Great Utah State Fair (Sept. 5–15) in Salt Lake City: life-size cows, each sculpted from almost half a ton of butter and displayed in a brisk, 40-degree room.

→ The Alaska State Fair (Aug. 22–Sept. 2) in Palmer includes a vegetable weigh-off in which, thanks

Lounge on a lake

No matter how close you’re staying to a lake, you’re not technically staying on the lake, unless you’re on a houseboat. There’s nothing else like it. The water is always right there, all around you, and the obligations of the nonliquid world seem very far away. Lake Powell, a reservoir on the UtahArizona border, makes a nearly perfect spot for such a retreat, its clear water full of bass and walleye, and its 2,000 miles of peach-colored sandstone shoreline yours to explore—or simply to float past.

to upwards of 16 hours of daylight during growing season, the winning pumpkins regularly tip the scales at over 1,000 pounds.

→ At the Eastern Idaho State Fair (Aug. 30–Sept. 7) in Blackfoot, see a quilt show or arm-wrestling championship, and eat your fill of roasted Mexican Crazy Corn.

Catch a game

The crack of a bat, the smell of freshcut grass—time spent at the ballpark is a cherished summer ritual. And for the Midnight Sun game in Fairbanks, Alaska, you don’t have to play hooky. The sun never sets on June 21 here, so the first pitch is thrown at 10:30 p.m. ●

jennifer reese has written for the New York Times and Entertainment Weekly.

AAA | VIA 35
8 9 10
The Midnight Sun baseball game. Houseboats on Lake Powell. Evergreen State Fair.
FROM TOP: DENISE LETT / ALAMY; ALEX TRAUTWIG / MLB PHOTOS; FOTOLUMINATE LLC / SHUTTERSTOCK
CLOCKWISE

In praise of solo travel

Hitting the road on your own can mean freedom, spontaneity, and overcoming the occasional doubt.

Traveling solo lets you be more fully present—wherever you are. IAN SHIVE / TANDEM STOCK

LastNovember, in need of a mental reboot, I cleared five days on my calendar, tossed some clothes into the car, and took off on a solo road trip before I could change my mind.

As I hurtled south from my home in Colorado and into the New Mexican desert, the landscape opened wider, from the colorful buttes and charcoal hills that Georgia O’Keeffe painted to arid flatlands where mountain ranges rear up like dragon tails. Something about the bare desert invites my mind to untangle.

By the time I arrived in Truth or Consequences, N.M., a historic, artsy hot springs town, night cloaked the land. At one of the lodges, an attendant drew me a fresh mineral bath in a spring-fed pool lit by a single candle. I sank in, closed my eyes, and felt the luxurious ease that comes from not having to take care of anything or anyone. This is the gift of being alone and away.

Just the night before, I had wondered if this was such a good idea. It happens every time I travel by myself: Doubts start simmering. Will I be safe? Will I be lonely? But come morning, optimism returns, and I remember the thrill of solitude in motion—a rush I’ve known many times—and off I go.

For me, solo trips are more than vacations. They are journeys of discovery, both inward and outward. They afford a freedom you don’t get when traveling with others. By myself, I’ve been all over, from Alaska to the Appalachian Mountains, Romania to Bhutan. And I’m not the only one. About one in four travelers went solo in 2018. A recent survey by British Airways of women in eight countries (the United States, United Kingdom, Brazil, France, Germany, Italy, India, and China) found that almost 50 percent of them have taken a vacation by themselves; 75 percent planned to do so in the future.

“As more people live, eat, and travel alone, more travel companies and restaurateurs are finding ways to cater to them—which in turn is making going alone easier and more commonplace,” says Stephanie Rosenbloom, the New York–based author of Alone Time: Four Seasons, Four Cities, and the Pleasures of Solitude. “Traveling solo nowadays is for anyone who wants it—singles, partners, parents—regardless of age or situation.”

Still, traveling alone can seem intimidating. Some of my friends raise their eyebrows when I tell them I’m heading off solo, as though I were brazenly flouting all notions of what is sane and smart. It’s not that challenges don’t arise, but more often than not, they resolve themselves.

On your own, you can linger when and where you want.

In Quito, Ecuador, for example, I felt daunted by the prospect of using my rudimentary Spanish to find a bus to a remote lodge. But once I boarded, I found fellow travelers going to the same destination. Another time I felt a little spooked as the only guest in a historic bed-and-breakfast in rural North Carolina—only to have a lovely rambling conversation with the proprietor. My unease melted.

One way to test the waters is to enlist with an organized group tour as a single. Several years ago, I joined one such group on a trip through Turkey. In the course of hot air ballooning over the ancient caves of Cappadocia, hiking up precipitous mountains, and sea kayaking along shores dotted with ruins, I made fast friends. You can also plan a short solo jaunt, then meet up with a companion for further adventures.

Traveling by oneself also opens the door for experiences and encounters that would never happen otherwise. Senses heighten, curiosity grows; I feel more present and alive. Without the strictures of a schedule or a companion’s preferences, I have spent hours shooting the breeze in the hot shade with an old cowboy in Texas. I have lingered over tea with people I’d just met in countless cafés across the world. It can feel as though the world is smaller and friendlier than you would ever guess from reading the news at home.

There’s also, of course, the simple pleasure of one’s own company. During my trip in November, I woke up in a campground in Guadalupe Mountains National Park in Texas. I drank my morning tea while staring up at the brilliant foliage that blanketed the mountains. Unhurried, I eventually set off hiking. Following a dry riverbed of polished alabaster-hued stones, I entered a forest aglow with the pigments of fall. It was so unexpectedly spectacular that I felt giddy.

Deep in the canyon, I sat down to soak up the silence. I had nowhere to be, nothing that needed to be done, and no one to talk to—and I couldn’t have been happier. ●

kate

AAA | VIA 37 LYUBA BURAKOVA/STOCKSY
siber lives in Colorado and also writes for Outside and National Parks.

Why cruises are great for solo travelers

Last summer, I took a cruise on the Danube. I drank wine with new friends at a Vienna vineyard, soaked at a Hungarian bathhouse, and hiked the hills above the town of Passau, Germany. In the evening, I sang along with postdinner tunes in the lounge or enjoyed quiet meals on the terrace when I didn’t feel like socializing.

The cruise provided a perfect combination of company and privacy, freedom and security. Here are six reasons why more cruisers should consider going solo.

1

You’ll never be lonely. When you’re cruising on your own, crew members will go out of their way to attend to your needs. Fellow passengers gravitate to you, and invitations for dinner or onboard trivia games are likely to follow.

2

But you can choose to be alone. As much as I enjoyed dinners at the communal tables, I was just as happy to slip back to my stateroom to read a book, take a nap, and simply be.

3

You can follow your whims. Before the trip, I’d planned to join an all-day excursion into the Czech Republic. Once on board, I decided that a few hours baking bread in the Austrian countryside sounded nicer. Being able to do as I pleased, without consulting anyone else, was liberating.

4

It pushes you out of your comfort zone. Sure, it can feel awkward asking strangers to let you join their dinner table. But it’s also a great way to make new friends and boost your confidence. The best part? You can always eat somewhere else the next night.

5

It’s safe. The crew is always looking out for you. They know (generally) where you are and notice if you aren’t where you’re supposed to be. Miss a departure because you were too busy sampling chocolate in Vienna? Crew members will alert your emergency contact.

6

It’s becoming more affordable. The “single supplement”—when cruise lines charge solo travelers the full two-person price for a stateroom—has long deterred many who travel alone. But many cruise lines now offer special rates for singles.

38 VIA | SUMMER 2019
Want to find out more about solo cruising? Contact the AAA Vacation Expert at your local branch, visit AAA .com/travel, or call (877) 835-2233. PLAN A TRIP
Gondola ride in Venice. Hagia Sophia Museum in Istanbul, Turkey.
TOP TO BOTTOM:
Cruising under the Golden Gate.
SAMANTHA ESTRADA / STOCKSY; JOE AZURE / TANDEM STOCK; CARLO ACENAS / TANDEM STOCK
Certain conditions and restrictions apply to all offers, are subject to availability, and are only good at participating locations and/or based on online purchase as indicated. Offers require an active AAA Membership Card, and are not valid with other discounts, promotions, or coupons unless specified otherwise. All offers are subject to change and may expire without notice. Some offers require advance purchase, and may have age and/or usage restrictions. For additional offer terms and conditions, visit AAA.com/restrictions. ©2019 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. All rights reserved. Remember, Members save more. Save up to 30% on tickets for theme parks and other attractions. AAA.com/aaadiscounts Save $56 on AAA Membership renewal fees plus extra savings on unlimited data plans. Save up to 20% on the base rate of all Hertz rentals plus join Hertz Gold Rewards for free. Save at least 5¢/gal on every fill–up at Shell with extended Gold Status in Fuel Rewards® Save 10% on select auto parts and accessories. Save 12% on truck rentals and moving supplies. Free unlimited mileage on one-way rentals. As a AAA Member you can save hundreds of dollars a year at thousands of locations. So, whether it’s discounts on travel and entertainment or summer gear and auto parts, you’ll find lots of ways to save big this summer. Check out some of our featured offers below: Save 50% on complete pairs of glasses and sunglasses.
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One LOW monthly program payment Get your free consultation today! Call 844-724-6382 or visit freedomdebtrelief.com/AAA Did you know? e world’s leading river cruise line is also rated the world’s best ocean cruise line. Only with Viking, the small ship experts. BY RIVER & BY SEA From Travel + Leisure Magazine, August 2018 © Time Inc. Affluent Media Group. Travel + Leisure ® and ‘World’s Best Awards’ are trademarks of Time Inc. Affluent Media Group and are used under license. Travel + Leisure and Time Inc. Affluent Media Group are not affiliated with, and do not endorse products or services of, Viking Cruises. CST: #2052644-40 Ask about the exclusive AAA Member Benefit from Viking. Visit your local AAA branch, call (888) 890-2470 or visit AAA.com/viking #1 RIVER CRUISE LINE

→ Countdown to moving day Smart Guide

Follow these 22 steps to take the stress out of packing up and moving in.

Whether you’re moving across town or across the country, the project of changing homes can seem incredibly daunting. And it is—until you break it into smaller chunks. Then, suddenly, the seemingly impossible becomes eminently doable. To get started, here’s an easy-to-follow schedule that lays out every task you’ll need to do before, during, and after your move—and also points out some of the ways your AAA Membership can lighten the load.

SAVE BIG Your AAA benefits can help moving day go more smoothly, while saving you money. Visit AAA.com/moving to learn how.
IDS PHOTOGRAPHY / STOCKSY

Smart Guide

Decide if you will move yourself or hire a mover. If you’ve got plenty of energy, helpful pals, and more time than money, then doing your own move in a rented truck can make sense. (AAA Members get 12 percent off truck rentals and moving supplies from Penske, plus free unlimited mileage on one-way rentals.) If you don’t have the time, hiring pros to do the job can be worth every penny. (AAA Members save an average of $600 with Atlas Van Lines on state-to-state moves.) Or consider a hybrid option: self-pack movers. You pack it; they move it.

Start a moving file. Set up a binder where you can store all moving-related paperwork: notes, estimates, and receipts, which can be important come tax time. It’s also a good place to keep an inventory of high-value items— including photos and appraisals— in case of damage. (See “Start Packing” on the next page.)

4–8 WEEKS BEFORETHEMOVE

Determine what’s coming with you. Moving is a great time to review your belongings and weed out any you don’t truly need. Room by room, decide what you’ll keep, and what’s destined for donation. Need to stow your valuables temporarily? Online storage marketplace SpareFoot offers AAA Members one free month, plus a $20 Amazon gift card.

Book the mover. If you’re hiring someone else to move your stuff, check online reviews, ask friends for recommendations, and get inhome quotes from at least three companies. Make sure the one you choose is licensed and insured, then firm up your date, time, and truck size, and get everything in writing. Note: Booking a time that isn’t in summer or on a weekend can save you money.

Let people know, part one. If you’re changing school districts, alert your children’s current schools and get their academic records, then contact the new district about enrolling them. Ask your doctors for copies of everyone’s medical records and for referrals to providers in your new locale. Notify insurance carriers, banks and credit card services, and any print publications you subscribe to.

42 VIA | SUMMER 2019
LEFT: JAMES BUETI; RIGHT:
LUMINA / STOCKSY

2–4 WEEKS BEFORETHEMOVE

Start packing. Begin with nonessential and seasonal items you won’t need soon. Place the heaviest items at the bottom, include padding, and fill each box to the brim. If movers are packing for you, group similar items together beforehand. Either way, label and number each box and create a spreadsheet that lists the box’s contents and which room they belong to. This is also an excellent opportunity to inventory your belongings, then check with your insurance agent to be sure you have the right coverage.

Stock up on packing supplies. You’re obviously going to need lots of boxes and tape. For ecofriendly boxes, get crates from local grocers. You’ll also want bubble wrap, cardboard cutters, marking pens, and packing labels. AAA Members get 15 percent off moving supplies at the UPS Store.

Prepare your pets.

Make sure that Fluffy has the right travel crate and that you’ve made transportation arrangements. (AAA Members get a $30 credit on first-time pet care services, including boarding, at AAA.com/rover.)

Visit the vet for shots, medical records, and health certificates.

Let people know, part two. Tell utilities at both ends of the move— gas, electricity, Internet, water, and trash—when you’ll need service disconnected at your old home and started at the new one. File a change of address with the post office, and ask neighbors or your old home’s new owners to forward mail that comes for you. Misdirected mail is a key source of identity theft; the free essential coverage AAA Members get from Experian’s ProtectMyID can help with that. AAA.com/protectid.

Start saying good-bye. Take the family to visit beloved local spots, host a going-away party, or enjoy a final pizza-and-movie night in your old abode. Want to send a thank-you gift to the neighbors who are collecting your mail? Your AAA card can save you 20 percent at Harry & David, 1-800FLOWERS, and 1-800-BASKETS.

1–2 WEEKS BEFORETHEMOVE

Driving? Get your car checked. If your new home is a significant drive away from your old one, get your car serviced before the trip. Have a trusted shop inspect your vehicle’s tires, brakes, belts, fluids, and wipers to ensure troublefree transit. And when you get to your new home, find AAA Approved Auto Repair facilities near you at AAA.com/repair.

Prep for the travel portion of your trip. If it’s a multiday trip, start packing. Include clothing and toiletries, any valuables you want to keep close, and items you’ll need first thing at your new place. AAA Plus Members are covered up to $250 on lost luggage; for AAA Premium Members it’s $500.

Double-check the plan. Connect with your movers to confirm the moving details and services. Give them directions and your phone number. Check to see if your insurance policies cover your move; if they don’t, consider buying moving insurance.

AAA | VIA 43 LEFT; HUMONIA / ISTOCK; RIGHT: YAKOB CHUKOLENA / ISTOCK

Smart Guide

AFEWDAYS BEFORETHEMOVE

Prep appliances. Bringing your fridge? Empty, clean, and defrost it at least a day before the move. Unplug any other appliances that are coming along, so that they’re cool enough to transport. For some appliances you may need to make an appointment with a pro to disconnect gas lines.

Pick up your rental truck. Moving day will be incredibly hectic, so if this is a DIY relocation, get a step ahead by picking up your rental truck the day before, practice

driving it, and back it into your driveway ready to load.

Finish packing. Do a final sweep to get everything into boxes or otherwise ready to transport. Make sure those boxes are labeled, using color-coded room stickers and FRAGILE markings as needed. Are all sheets off the beds? Has every cabinet and closet been checked? Is the garage empty? Responsibly discard hazardous materials, including flammables, bleach, and weed killer.

Assemble a moving-day kit. Think about what you’ll need on moving day: tape, marking pens, pocketknife, trash bags, cleaning rags and all-purpose spray, snacks, tip money for the movers, medications, pet essentials, and keys to both houses. Keep this kit handy, and don’t load it onto the truck.

MOVING DAY

Make your move. When the movers arrive, confi rm that they’re from the right company and that their truck’s USDOT number matches the one on your estimate. Offer them food, water, and coffee, and stay on-site to supervise. Triple check to make sure everything gets loaded. Sign the inventory sheet and keep a copy. Tip your movers 10 to 15 percent, depending on how they did. Moving your own stuff ? Remember that AAA Emergency Road Service is there to help if you run into trouble on the way.

Take a fi nal look around. Time for all those last-minute checks: Go through the house room by room, shutting off the lights and air conditioner or heater. Close and lock all windows and doors. Say good-bye.

44 VIA | SUMMER 2019
/ ISTOCK
LEFT: JAMES BUETI; RIGHT: MANLEY099

Set up new accounts. Check that utilities are up and running; if not, contact the companies. Let the local post office know you’re ready for mail. Consider whether a new phone provider makes sense. (Sprint gives AAA Members up to $200 in a prepaid card when they switch carriers, plus access to Hulu and 25 percent off most accessories.) Transfer your car and homeowners insurance policies and car registration to your new address.

Protect and upgrade your new home. While everything is slightly upended anyway, consider making some upgrades to your new home. Thinking of installing solar panels? SunPower gives AAA Members a $1,000 rebate. Want to make your new home extra smart? Google’s Nest Learning Thermostat, Nest Protect smoke and carbon dioxide alarm, and Nest Cam Indoor individual products are up to 15 percent off for AAA Members (AAA.com/nest). And don’t forget new locks. Do it yourself, or hire an expert: AAA Premier Members get $150 back on residential locksmith services.

Celebrate! Catch your breath and start creating some warm fuzzies in your new digs. Host a housewarming party. Or kick up your feet and enjoy a family movie night, popcorn and all. AAA Members get 25 percent off their first Redbox rental.

AAA | VIA 45 FOR MORE TIPS, VISIT AAA.COM ✓
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Spotlight

MAY 19–SEPT. 2

San Francisco pop-up

The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art hosts the West Coast premiere of the first Andy Warhol retrospective in the United States since 1989. The blockbuster exhibit, Andy Warhol—From A to B and Back Again, features more than 300 paintings, photos, films, and other works to present a deep portrait of the renowned pop artist.

JUNE 21–23

Santa Cruz surf style

Combining affordability and size, wood-paneled station wagons became the transport of choice for surfers in the 1960s. Celebrate this classic symbol of West Coast beach culture in one of California’s surfing epicenters during the 25th annual Woodies on the Wharf. The marquee event takes place June 22 when more than 200 vintage rides line the Santa Cruz Wharf.

JUNE 8–SEPT. 8

← Peek into peak Paris

At the dawn of the 20th century, Paris was at the height of the belle epoque, or “beautiful age.” Paris 1900: City of Entertainment, at the Portland Art Museum, immerses visitors in that gilded time and place through 200-plus paintings, sculptures, textiles, and other objects, such as a sapphirestudded comb (left), all drawn from the collections of three important Parisian museums.

JUNE 15

↓ Arizona feast

Does Tucson have the best Mexican eats in the U.S.? Judge for yourself during the Tucson 23 Mexican Food Festival, at the JW Marriott Tucson Starr Pass Resort & Spa. Inspired by a 23-mile culinary route through the city, the event features live music and dance, and delicioso samples from some 20 local hot spots.

JUNE 20–29

Buck up in Nevada

The Reno Rodeo is celebrating its 100-year anniversary in high-bucking style. Attendees can enjoy a full carnival, a Western marketplace, and a packed calendar of mostly free daytime events in addition to 10 nights of rodeo action. Don’t miss the arrival of the 300-steer cattle drive on June 20 and the parade on June 22.

To be considered for the Winter 2019 issue, event notices must be received by Oct. 1. Send details to viamagazineevents@ gmail.com or Events Editor, Via, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623.

46 VIA | SUMMER 2019 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ETHEL SCULL 36 TIMES, ©ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS; COURTESY TUCSON 23 MEXICAN FOOD FESTIVAL; COURTESY MUSÉE DES BEAUX-ARTS DE LA VILLE DE PARIS, PETIT PALAIS
AAA | VIA 47 Travel Guide For advertiser websites or free reader service information, visit viainfo.ai-dsg.com MARIN SAN FRANCISCO SAN FRANCISCO/FAIRFIELD SAN FRANCISCO/FAIRFIELD SAN FRANCISCO Let your fun path lead you HERE! Work, Stay, or Play 10% off BAR for Via readers Discounted parking per vehicle/day for stays from may - august 2019 beihotelsf.com July 3-7, 2019 marinfair.org Fireworks Free Concerts Carnival Rides Dwight Yoakam ABBA The Concert Steel Pulse Joan Jett & the Blackhearts Cheap Trick © 2019 Jelly Belly Candy Company Sweet! • Fun, interactive and sensory exhibits • Retail Store and Café FACTORY TOURS DAILY 9:15AM -4PM Jelly Belly Visitor Center One Jelly Belly Lane • Fairfield, CA JellyBelly.com • 800-953-5592 GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE www.sfhelicopters.com 800-400-2404 Spring19TG_SFHelicopters.indd 1 1/17/19 1:39 PM Celebrate the grandeur and charm of the city at San Francisco’s premiere historic hotel. • Complimentary Wifi • Complimentary Sherry & Tea • USE CODE VIA15 to save 15% on your stay www.kensingtonparkhotel.com 800-553-1900 THE BEST ADDRESS IN UNION SQUARE SAN FRANCISCO
48 VIA | SUMMER 2019 Travel Guide SAN FRANCISCO SONOMA MENDOCINO UKIAH SONOMA Start in Fisherman’s Wharf or Golden Gate Park Reservations required. SEGWAY: ages 12+ & 100-250lbs. (45-113kg.) SCOOTER: 16+ & under 290lbs.(131kg) ElectricTourCompany.com 415-429-7038 Electric Scooter Tours Segway Tours Fully Guided 10 Daily Departures Private Tours Available 415-429-7038 7 Great Routes 10 Daily Departures Private Tours Available VISITING SAN FRANCISCO? The Golden Gate Bridge has ALL ELECTRONIC TOLLING. Learn about how to pay your toll at goldengate.org/tolls 2301 Hardies Lane Santa Rosa, CA 95403 (707) 579-4452 schulzmuseum.org ©2019 PNTS Experience the Joy of Peanuts Adventure Eco-Tour Through the Redwood Forest SonomaCanopyTours.com 1-888-494-7868 EXCLUSIVE SAVINGS FOR AAA MEMBERS SAVE UP TO 40% OFF GENERAL ADMISSION To purchase, go to AAA.com/tickets or visit your local AAA branch ©2019 Cedar Fair, L.P. GA19-100
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Free Information Circle the numbers and mail the attached card Visit viainfo.ai-dsg.com 2 1 Offer expires July 31, 2019 Two easy ways to get FREE information: Alaska 1. Ketchikan Visitors Bureau 2. Visit Anchorage 3. All Alaska Selections San Francisco Bay Area 4. Aquarium of the Bay 5. BEI San Francisco 6. California Academy of Sciences 7. Exploratorium 8. Fairfield Conference & Visitors Bureau 9. Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco 10. Filoli Center 11. Golden Gate Bridge District 12. Great America 13. Kensington Park Hotel 14. Marin Convention & Visitors Bureau 15. San Francisco Electric Tour Company 16. San Francisco Helicopter Tours 17. Visit Berkeley 18. Walt Disney Family Museum— San Francisco 19. Yerba Buena Center For The Arts 20. All San Francisco Selections Northern California 21. Konocti Vista Casino and Resort 22. Beachcomber Motel 23. Charles M Schulz Museum 24. Collings Foundation—Wings of Freedom Tour 25. Jelly Belly Candy Co. 26. Redding Convention & Visitors Bureau 27. Skunk Train—Mendocino Railway 28. Trees of Mystery 29. Visit Ukiah 30. All Northern California Selections Lake Tahoe Region 31. Sorensen’s Resort Central California 32. Cannery Row Company 33. Canterbury Woods 34. Gilroy Welcome Center 35. InterContinental The Clement Monterey Hotel 36. Lobos Lodge 37. Lone Oak Lodge 38. Monterey Bay Aquarium 39. Pacific Grove Chamber of Commerce 40. Pajaro Dunes Resort 41. Pine Acres Lodge 42. Pine Inn 43. Tally Ho 44. Portola Hotel & Spa at Monterey Bay 45. Quality Inn, San Simeon 46. Tickle Pink Inn 47. William A. Karges Fine Art 48. All Central California Selections Southern California 49. Best Western Stovall’s Hotels of Anaheim 50. Terranea Resort 51. Visit Buena Park 52. All Southern California Selections Idaho 53. Southern Idaho Hawaii /Maui
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54.

Shooting the breeze

Rising from the shore, Haystack Rock is an iconic image of coastal Oregon—and a favorite photo subject for visitors to Cannon Beach. Beaverton resident Brian Girard, the AAA Member who snapped this shot, comes here frequently to escape suburban life. “Kids play in the surf, kites fly high in the sky,” says Girard. “It’s a welcoming place, ideal for a family outing.” Miles of open beaches, colorful tide pools, networks of forested trails, and a colony of nesting tufted puffins—one of the most accessible in the Northwest— make the area a perfect summer destination.

Share your adventure

Post an original photo from a recent trip on Facebook or Instagram using #ViaAdventure. Your image may be published in print, or online at AAA.com/via.

52 VIA | SUMMER 2019
# VIA ADVENTURE
AAA MEMBER PHOTO
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Certain restrictions apply. Valid AAA Membership card required. AAA batteries may not be available for all vehicle makes and models. Mobile battery replacement is not available in all areas. Member pays for battery. Some battery installations may require additional fees. For full Membership terms & conditions, visit AAA.com/terms. ©2019 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. All rights reserved. AAA Car Battery Service is a national service that not only tests your battery for free, we also come to almost anywhere you are when you need a replacement. We even back it up with a 6-year warranty on new batteries. Get a price quote and request service on the AAA Mobile app AAA.com/carbattery We replace your battery on the spot. Just about anywhere that spot is. S:7”
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