Via | Jan+Feb 2020

Insider guide to Disneyland Palm Springs, classic and cool

Golden Gate Park

Must-see treasures and hidden gems

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At AAA, we’re always striving to help you make the most of your Membership. That’s why we’re letting you decide how you’d like to receive Via magazine in 2020: as a print edition and/or an interactive digital flip book.

We’re also looking for ways to reduce our use of paper wherever we can. The costs of printing and postage for the print edition continue to increase. Meanwhile, advances in the tools available for creating and delivering digital content will enable us to provide you with a more dynamic electronic version of Via in the very near future.

Soon you’ll receive a request from AAA asking for your preference of delivery format—print, digital, or both. Your response will ensure that you continue to receive our award-winning magazine the way you want it.

We thank you in advance for helping us serve you better.

Once every so often there comes a show that’s so mesmerizing, one can only wish it would never end. Today, that show is Shen Yun, which has been lauded by its audience as the No. 1 show in the world. Don’t miss it again this season! Be touched! Be inspired! Be uplifted!

“The show has had me in tears, it’s had me with a smile on my face, it’s had me at moments wishing everyone could see this show all throughout the world... Bring the family, bring your friends, bring your parents, bring everybody, because it’s joy. Go see it.”

—Bill Russ, motivational speaker

“There is a massive power in this that can embrace the world. It brings great hope.”

—Daniel Herman, former Minister of Culture of the Czech Republic

CONTENTS

FEATURES

20

Palm Springs Eternal

Old-school cool meets the new chic in Southern California’s classic desert getaway.

by christopher hall

28 The Perfect Park

Gorgeous gardens, world-class art, and a herd of bison: Find these and other treasures in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park. by peter fish

DEPARTMENTS

6 To Our Members

What we’re thankful for this year.

8 Community

Winter driving tips; easy ways to make your car smarter.

10 Smart Life

Your New Year to-do list: Clean up your email in-box, plan a vacation, and practice random acts of kindness.

12

On the Road

Wonders of the Mendocino coast; the West’s best fireplaces; marvelous modern art in Denver; savoring Spanish wine country.

Desert Void, a mural by artist Chaz Bear, graces the Ace Hotel & Swim Club in Palm Springs. Page 20.

39 Smart Guide

How to make your next trip to Disneyland the best one yet.

49 Spotlight

Celebrating truffles in the West, Alaska’s pioneering spirit, and Pier 39’s famous sea lions.

52 #ViaAdventure

Winter peace descends on the summer resort of Silver Lake in California’s Sierra Nevada.

ON THE COVER

Originally built in 1902 to pump irrigation water, the Dutch Windmill in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park is now surrounded by banks of seasonal blooms. Page 28.

Cover photograph by James Bueti

Editorial

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Dan Miller

SENIOR EDITOR Megan McCrea

EVENTS EDITOR Ethan Fletcher

Design + Production

DESIGN DIRECTOR Monica Ewing Jensen

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Amy Mackey

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Veronica Sooley

PHOTO EDITOR Maggie Perkins

Digital

EXECUTIVE DIGITAL PRODUCER Rebecca Harper

DIGITAL MARKETING STRATEGIST Valerie St. John

SOCIAL MEDIA Arthur Ilasco

Advertising

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Ted Welch

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Linda Black, Bruce Colton, Kevin McCaw, Mike Walker

ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Natasha Alcalá

ADVERTISING ACCOUNTING William Nocera

2,748,215 COPIES Subscription rate: AAA primary members, $2 (included in dues). Change of address: Allow four weeks’ advance notice. Contact AAA at (800) 922-8228. Manuscripts and photos: Query first; Via assumes no responsibility for return of unsolicited material. Reprints from Via: Contents copyrighted 2019 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. No part of Via may be reprinted without written permission.

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Via (ISSN 1093-1716) is published four times a year, in January, March, May, and September, by AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah, 1277 Treat Blvd., Suite 1000, Walnut Creek, CA 94597. Periodicals Postage: Paid at Walnut Creek, CA, and at additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to Via AAA, P.O. Box 24512, Oakland, CA 94623.

Outsmart the season

I love this time of year: enjoying holiday festivities, reflecting on the journeys of the past year, and looking forward to what the new one will bring. Those reflections start with thinking about how much I appreciate you, our valued AAA Members, for the trust you place in us to be there when you need us most. For that, thank you. And thank you, too, for embracing the new features, services, and benefits we added in 2019 to better serve you.

Among those new offerings, I’m especially proud of introducing AAA Smart Home services, initially in Arizona and now in the San Francisco Bay Area; expanding AAA House Manager and Gig Car Share to new markets; and bringing our new AAA Car Subscription service to the Sacramento area.

In addition, we introduced several discounts, all of which you can discover by visiting AAA.com/membership. Some of my favorites include savings of up to 20 percent on Google Nest Smart Living bundles; discounted charging plans for electric vehicles through our EVgo nationwide partnership; and 25 percent off the Roav Viva car charger, which has Amazon Alexa built in.

Our goal in all of these endeavors is to offer new value and benefit to AAA Members. Looking forward, we will continue to focus on finding ways to help you outsmart obstacles you encounter on the road of life, both by helping you to take preventive actions and by being there for you when things don’t go quite right. For example, with winter coming, let us help you prepare: Bring your vehicle to one of the AAA Owned or Approved Auto Repair shops near you for a full vehicle inspection. Our expert technicians will let you know if any work is needed. (As a Member, you’ll receive 10 percent off the cost of labor and an extended warranty on the repairs they perform.)

As the holidays approach, please consider giving the gift of AAA Membership. Our legendary roadside assistance, coupled with our exclusive perks and privileges, is a great way to show friends, relatives, and even coworkers how much you care.

Let me end by saying again how much we appreciate having you as a Member of AAA. On behalf of all AAA Team Members, we thank you for your trust, and we promise to continue to earn it each and every day, all year long.

Happiest of holidays and new year! ba.

TIM CONDON, PRESIDENT & CEO

How to drive safely in winter

The weather is turning cold, which means it’s time to remember your seasonal driving skills. Whether you’re headed to the mountains or commuting in the rain or snow, here are some tips for staying safe on the road this winter.

Check the forecast. Avoid driving in bad weather if you can. If the outlook is stormy, consider postponing your trip.

Be prepared. Check the tread and pressure on your tires. Make sure fluids are topped up and your gas tank is at least half full. Stash a good emergency kit in your vehicle. (See AAA.com/emergencykit for a list of items to include.)

Clear your view. Before you hit the road, remove ice and snow from your

vehicle’s windows, windshield, roof, bumpers, and hood. If your car has sensors or cameras, clear them too.

Take it easy. On slippery roads, accelerate and decelerate gradually. Avoid sudden starts and stops, especially on hills. Don’t use cruise control.

Go slow on ice and snow. Leave at least eight to 10 seconds between you and the car ahead of you.

Stay cool in skids. If you hit an icy patch, keep calm. Take your foot off the gas, steer straight, and try to refrain from braking. If the back end starts to fishtail, turn the wheel gently in the same direction. Still skidding? With antilock brakes, apply steady pressure. For other systems, gently pump the brake pedal.

Smart car chargers get smarter

Want to make your car more intelligent? AAA can help, with discounts on Anker’s Roav Bolt and Roav Viva car chargers. Both plug into your car’s auxiliary power socket and quickly charge smartphones and other devices through their twin USB ports. The really smart part: The Viva also serves as an interface for the Amazon Alexa voice service; the Bolt does the same for Google Assistant. That means you can tell the Bolt or Viva to play music, control smart gadgets at your home, get directions, even call for AAA Emergency Road Service—all without taking your hands off the wheel. Save 20 percent on the Bolt by entering the savings code BOLT4AAA at checkout; get 25 percent off the Viva using the code VIVA4AAA.

↘ AAA.com/roav

Save on powering up your EV

AAA Members who drive electric vehicles can save big when they need a charge. Just for being a Member, you now get the lowest price at any EVgo charging station in the United States, without having to pay the usual EVgo membership fee—a savings of 10 to 15 percent.

↘ AAA.com/evgo

All aboard for the merriest Christmas ever!

Thomas Kinkade’s Wonderland Express Christmas Tree

As Santa and his reindeer joyously fly into the night, the Wonderland Express slowly chug, chug, chugs its way ‘round and ‘round the peaceful little village nestled amongst the snow-kissed evergreen boughs. Now, inspired by Thomas Kinkade, the “ Wonderland Express Christmas Tree” Masterpiece Edition captures this wondrous night in a very special collectible available exclusively from Hawthorne Village. Featuring four levels of rotating movement—including Santa and his sleigh—you’ll watch as the Wonderland Express “climbs” ever higher up the tree. With 12 brilliantly illuminated buildings and over 30 figurines, this meticulously handcrafted, hand- painted masterwork lavished with a blanket of glitter-touched snow—and playing a medley of beloved holiday carols—is certain to be the ever-so-perfect addition to your holiday decorating.

Exceptional value; attractively priced. This delightful Masterpiece Edition can be yours for $149.99*, payable in 4 easy installments of only $37.50, the first due before shipment. But don’t wait to order. Strong demand is expected, and orders are limited to one edition per customer Send no money now. Just complete and mail the attached coupon today!

5 things to do now

Whether you’re resolving to travel, spread sunshine, or finally achieve in-box zero, these tips will help you achieve your 2020 vision.

1

Treat your taste buds.

February is Black History Month. You can taste some of that history in the foods of the great African American culinary tradition. Read about some of the best places in the West to experience that cuisine at AAA.com/blackhistory.

Prep your car. Winter brings rain, snow, and ice to roads, making driving a challenge. Get prepared by taking your car into a garage for a checkup. AAA Members who patronize a shop in the AAA Approved Auto Repair network receive a 10 percent discount and a warranty on all work. To find a location near you, visit AAA.com/autorepair. For more tips on winter driving safety, see page 8.

4

3 2

Organize your in-box. Get the New Year off to a good clean start by taming your email: Sort messages by sender, unsubscribe from mailing lists, create labels, and then file, separating out emails that require urgent responses. Mass delete the rest.

Plot your escape. In 2018, U.S. workers left 768 million vacation days on the table. This year, be sure you take advantage of your paid time off. You might start on Jan. 28— National Plan for Vacation Day—by visiting AAA .com/travel.

5

Shine your light. On Feb. 17, Random Acts of Kindness Day, let someone go ahead of you in line, bake brownies for the mail carrier, or cede a space in a crowded parking lot to another driver—the ultimate good deed.

For Random Acts of Kindness Day, commit a random act of homemade brownies.

SMART LIST

On the Road

“When you see the fireplace at Oregon’s Timberline Lodge, on Mount Hood, you can’t help but be wowed by its immensity. Sipping a drink beside it as snow falls outside is utterly magical.”

leigh rieder

MEMBERS’ FAVORITES

Fabulous fireplaces

↘ Whether you’re reading, chatting, or warming your feet, there’s something delightful about a fireplace in winter.

“As soon as I walk into the lobby of the Golden Hotel in Golden, Colo., I feel right at home. I love to sit by the crackling flames and curl up with a good book, or just people-watch.” susie lambert

“The beautiful Paradise Inn in Washington’s Mount Rainier National Park has not one but two giant stone hearths. That’s a big plus, given how cold it can get in the winter!” patricia kilroe

“When my wife and I checked into our room at the Mendocino Hotel & Garden Suites in Mendocino, Calif., we were thrilled to find a gorgeous wood-burning fireplace. It totally made our stay.” jeff jackson

“Scoring a seat in front of the massive fireplace in the Old Faithful Inn is a family favorite on our trips to Yellowstone National Park. It’s the perfect spot to read, talk to other visitors, or sim-

ply gaze in wonder at the incredible architecture.”

susan thomas

“The outdoor fire ring at the Lodge at Edgewood Tahoe in Stateline, Nev., is a lovely spot to relax on a brisk day. It has an amazing view of the lake and the snowcapped peaks around it.” marta holm

“Maybe it was because we were on our honeymoon, but the most romantic hearth that I’ve ever snuggled up in front of was the one at California’s Inn at Death Valley (formerly the Inn at Furnace Creek). That was 19 years ago. We’ve been back since, and it never disappoints.” o atkinson

NEXT QUESTION

What’s your favorite campground in the West, and why do you love it?

↘ Email us at otr@viamagazine .com. You may be quoted in a future issue.

RANDY BOVERMAN

ON THE ROAD

The life aquatic

As you drive the Mendocino coast three hours north of San Francisco, the beauty of the rocky bluffs and crashing surf is hard to miss. Less obvious is the wonder beneath the waves. The stretch of sea off Point Arena—part of the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary—contains one of the richest upwelling zones in North America. Here, nutrient-filled water rises from the deep into the sunlight, sustaining free-floating plankton and forming a key link in the food chains that nourish all sorts of sea creatures, from the Cassin’s auklet to the blue whale.

“It’s a huge seafood buffet,” says the sanctuary’s outreach specialist, Mary Jane Schramm.

That buffet doesn’t just feed local fish. Thanks to strong southbound currents, those nutrients reach critters some 170 miles away in Monterey Bay.

But not all the action is underwater. From December through May, landlubbers can watch from the Point

Arena Lighthouse to see gray whales breach as they migrate between the Baja peninsula and the Arctic. About 1.5 miles south, in the Point Arena–Stornetta Unit of the California Coastal National Monument, a short cliff-top path leads from Lighthouse Road to a cove teeming with Steller sea lions and harbor seals that flop on and off the rocky shelves. —eric smillie

At low tide, over 100 spherical boulders may be visible at Bowling Ball Beach.

Castillo de Sajazarra, Spain

The Castillo de Sajazarra, an imposing 15th-century fortress tucked into the green hills of northern Spain’s wine country, once protected the Count of Nieva. Today, it no longer safeguards nobility, but the current owners do fulfill another time-honored mission: delivering rich reds and palate-pleasing rosés to the world. Built along a route favored by religious pilgrims, the remarkably well-preserved castle—including a central keep flanked by four octagonal towers—isn’t open to the public. But visitors can stroll or drive past to drink in views of the golden-hued castillo perched between verdant vineyards and a sea of indigo peaks. These mountains help shelter the area from Atlantic winds, creating a landscape so fertile that wild boars and roe deer sample the bounty of the vineyards. But don’t worry, there’s still plenty of the latter to go around: During an annual summer festival, revelers in the nearby village of Haro douse each other with buckets of red wine. Even if wine isn’t to your taste, the castle is a place worth savoring.

chris woolston

Tears From a Volcano

OnMay 18, 1980, the once-slumbering Mount St. Helens erupted in the Pacific Northwest. It was the most impressive display of nature’s power in North America’s recorded history. But even more impressive is what emerged from the chaos... a spectacular new creation born of ancient minerals named Helenite. Its lush, vivid color and amazing story instantly captured the attention of jewelry connoisseurs worldwide. You can now have four carats of the world’s newest stone for an absolutely unbelievable price.

Known as America’s emerald, Helenite makes it possible to give her a stone that’s brighter and has more fire than any emerald without paying the exorbitant price. In fact, this many carats of an emerald that looks this perfect and glows this green would cost you upwards of $80,000. Your more beautiful and much more affordable option features a perfect teardrop of Helenite set in gold-covered sterling silver suspended from a chain accented with even more verdant Helenite.

Limited Reserves. As one of the largest gemstone dealers in the world, we buy more carats of Helenite than anyone, which lets us give you a great price. However, this much gorgeous green for this price won’t last long. Don’t miss out. Helenite is only found in one section of Washington State, so call today!

Romance guaranteed or your money back. Experience the scintillating beauty of the Helenite Teardrop Necklace for 30 days and if she isn’t completely in love with it send it back for a full refund of the item price. You can even keep the stud earrings as our thank you for giving us a try.

Mile High modern

Just down the street from the sleek, futuristic Denver Art Museum, the squat Kirkland Museum of Fine & Decorative Art looks modest by comparison. But walk in, and you’ll find a vast, delightful hodgepodge. Built partly as a monument to Colorado art, the institute shows works by the late Denver painter Vance Kirkland and other local artists, alongside furniture, tableware, and ceramics from around the world.

It’s easy to be seduced by the superstar art—the pitcher designed by Picasso, the champagne bottle wrapped with a Lichtenstein print—

but don’t miss Kirkland’s studio in back. Here, four straps hang from the ceiling. The painter would use the loops to suspend himself facedown above massive canvases to create his bright, cosmic works. Nearby you’ll

see his books, paintbrushes, and inadvertently splattered chairs. The scene looks realistic because it is: When the museum relocated here in 2018, movers transported Kirkland’s 100-year-old studio all in one piece. steve knopper

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The Illusion of Floating Mysteries in Red Space mesmerizes a viewer at the Kirkland.

Palm Springs

Old-school cool meets new chic in the Southern California desert.

In the sun-kissed

Coachella Valley of Southern California, Palm Springs and its neighboring communities embrace tradition alongside innovation like few places on earth. Take, for example, the region’s distinctive desert modernist structures, built from the late 1930s to the 1970s. “Palm Springs is known internationally for its diversity and concentration of midcentury architecture adapted to the desert,” says valley native and architect Lance O’Donnell. And while some of those buildings are meticulously preserved, others are being thoughtfully transformed into 21st-century spaces—restaurants, museums, and more. A few harken back to Hollywood’s golden age, when Palm Springs first became a hideaway for the stars. The wealth of vintage cool juxtaposed with the newand-now makes for an exciting trip back to the future. If you go, don’t miss these desert icons and current hot spots.

by christopher hall

Modernism

Week (held Feb. 13–23 this year) draws visitors to Palm Springs with an annual cavalcade of exhibitions, talks, and tours of midcentury modern homes.

Frey House II.

DESERT ICON

Palm Springs Art Museum

Founded in 1938 to present natural science, Palm Springs Art Museum today showcases world-class modern and contemporary art at three locations: a main space downtown, a stand-alone architecture and design center nearby, and a satellite gallery in Palm Desert. The museum rotates works from its permanent collection of 11,000-plus sculptures, paintings, and objects by 20thcentury greats Alexander Calder, Henry Moore, Robert Motherwell, and others. It also mounts lively temporary exhibits, such as the first major solo show (Jan. 18–May 31) by artist and cattle rancher Gerald Clarke, a tribal leader of the Cahuilla Band of Indians whose work often strives to debunk stereotypes about indigenous peoples.

CURRENT HOT SPOT

Ace Hotel & Swim Club

Desert Void, the flamboyant 2019 mural by Chaz Bear—aka singer, songwriter, and producer Toro y Moi—brought vivid abstract shapes to an outdoor wall of the Ace Hotel & Swim Club in Palm Springs. Like the everchanging landscape from which it drew inspiration, his masterpiece is fleeting: Every April, the hotel unveils a new largescale work on the side of its Commune building to coincide with Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival events. No word yet as to what’s on deck for the next installation (the ninth to date), but you can bet it won’t be any wallflower.

DESERT ICON Frey House II

In designing his 1963 Palm Springs abode, prominent Swiss architect Albert Frey created a bold hillside pavilion of steel, glass, and corrugated metal physically wedded to the land, with a boulder dividing the living and sleeping spaces. You can visit the still-startling landmark, now known as the Frey House II, as an optional add-on to the Modern Tour, the official tour of the Palm Springs Art Museum’s Architecture and Design Center. The three-hour guided excursion by SUV features two to four stops for viewing the interiors of private homes in neighborhoods packed with gems of midcentury modern architecture.

CURRENT HOT SPOT

Sands Hotel & Spa

Morocco meets modernism with a big splash of whimsy at the new Sands Hotel & Spa in Indian Wells. What was originally a late 1950s hotel has been reimagined by Los Angeles interior designer Martyn Lawrence Bullard, a star of Bravo’s hit TV series Million Dollar Decorators. You don’t have to stay overnight to sip a refreshing Ginger Kicker in the Pink Cabana restaurant (where the decor offers a groovy mint-green-and-pink riff on a midcentury Palm Springs tennis club) or schedule a hammam-style treatment (with a body mask of jasmineinfused rhassoul clay sourced from the Atlas Mountains) in the spa.

Sands Hotel & Spa.

Palm Springs Art Museum.

DESERT ICON

Melvyn’s at Ingleside Inn

Celebrity sightings and nostalgic fare have been staples at Melvyn’s since its 1975 debut. A recent makeover kept the Palm Springs restaurant’s dressy, retro-glam aura but updated most of the menu. You might hear “Fly Me to the Moon” from the adjacent piano lounge while tucking into the joint’s signature cognac-and-mushroomsauced steak Diane, still flambéed tableside by a tuxedoed waiter, just as it was for Frank Sinatra in his regular corner booth (No. 53).

CURRENT HOT SPOT

4 Saints

Perched on the seventh story of Kimpton the Rowan Palm Springs hotel—the city’s tallest building, opened in late 2017—4 Saints’ rooftop restaurant and bar draw a buzzy crowd in search of innovative cocktails, globally inspired food, and sweeping desert and mountain views. Seasonal plates often feature locally grown or foraged ingredients. Look for beef carpaccio with pickled onions and shaved Parmesan or a vanilla-cream crepe in a golden pool of passion fruit puree.

DESERT ICON

Keedy’s Fountain & Grill

If the decor at Keedy’s screams “1957,” that’s because it hasn’t changed much since this beloved Palm Desert breakfast-lunch spot opened that year. The extensive menu packs Mexican favorites such as huevos rancheros or machaca (dried and rehydrated spiced beef) with eggs alongside American diner classics such as buttermilk pancakes, hot or cold meat loaf sandwiches, and handdipped chocolate malts. Patrons order while seated at dinette tables of Formica and chrome or atop swivel stools upholstered in aqua vinyl at the long, curving counter.

CURRENT HOT SPOT

Wilma & Frieda’s Cafe

Wilma & Frieda’s Cafe promises “comfort food with a twist,” and the latest outpost of this popular Palm Desert café—which opened in downtown Palm Springs in fall 2018—delivers. Start breakfast or brunch on a sweet note with a house-made triple-berry “pop tart” before devouring the surf-and-turf eggs Benedict starring lobster and filet mignon. For lunch or dinner, it’s hard to beat the primo burger, a chopped-chuck-andshort-rib patty topped with your choice of nine cheeses and accoutrements such as bacon and jalapeños on a brioche bun. Start with duck-fat fries after 5:30 p.m.

TOP: NEIL HUSVAR

4 Saints.

Wilma & Frieda’s Cafe.

DESERT ICON

Cabot’s Pueblo Museum

Cabot Yerxa, an early-20th-century Desert Hot Springs homesteader and selfdescribed “desert rat,” built this Hopiinspired edifice of adobe bricks and salvaged wood as his home. He opened it to the public as a museum in 1950, while he still lived there. Its rooms are chockablock with Yerxa’s collection of American Indian art, as well as his own Western paintings and personal effects. Outside, don’t miss Waokiye, a monumental face carved from a 45-ton sequoia log, one of over 70 “whispering giants” that artist Peter Toth has created across the United States and Canada.

CURRENT HOT SPOT

The Living Desert Zoo and Gardens

The visitor experience at this top-rated zoo changes routinely—and, thanks to an ongoing $30 million expansion, its facilities also continue to evolve. Features added in fall 2018 include a grand entry plaza with a state-of-the-art video wall for planning your visit and a garden shaded by the spreading canopies of 50-foot-tall fever trees, a species native to Africa. The site specializes in preserving the diverse flora and fauna of the world’s deserts, such as giant saguaro, jaguars, and bat-eared foxes. Coming in 2020: an Australian Adventures exhibit that allows close encounters with wallabies.

DESERT ICON

Indian Canyons

Even before Palm Springs incorporated as a city in 1938, the Indian Canyons—situated on the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation—were popular with hikers. Today, over 60 miles of trails lace the area, enabling treks of varying difficulty that lead to the canyons’ streams and unexpectedly lush vegetation. The relatively flat, one-mile Andreas Canyon Loop wends past spectacular jutting rock formations, beneath the shade of willows and sycamores, and through one of the world’s largest oases of California fan palms.

CURRENT HOT SPOT

Kim Nicol Trail

Dedicated in 2018, the Kim Nicol Trail winds through sandy, open desert, where you’re likely to see spring wildflowers including poppies, milk vetch, and dune evening primrose. The moderately challenging loop, beginning in Desert Edge, ascends high enough to provide panoramas of the surrounding landscape and distant mountains. Bonus for sharp-eyed hikers: This is prime habitat for the Coachella Valley fringe-toed lizard, an endangered species that hides out underground when it’s cold and can grow up to nine inches long. ●

christopher hall has also written for Architectural Digest, National Geographic Traveler, and the New York Times.

TOP:

The Living Desert Zoo and Gardens.

Indian Canyons.

The Perfect Park

Hamon Observation Tower at the de Young Museum affords spectacular views.

World-class art, gorgeous gardens, and a herd of bison: You’ll find them all in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park.

by peter fish photography by james bueti

There shouldn’t be a park here. That’s what Frederick Law Olmsted, the legendary designer behind New York’s Central Park, told San Francisco bigwigs in 1865, when they first approached him about creating an equally grand park in their city. The frontier metropolis, he said, was too windy and sandy to support even a tree.

And yet, here it is. Born 150 years ago, Golden Gate Park is a delightful surprise, 1,017 green acres in the heart of one of the densest cities in the United States. It’s a welcome reprieve from the urban jungle, a place where San Franciscans can toss a Frisbee, row a boat, and joyously decompress. “The best urban park in America,” says Phil Ginsburg, general manager of the San Francisco Recreation and Parks Department. Ginsburg’s position might make him seem biased, but trust me—he’s right. The park has been my family’s beloved backyard for nearly 20 years. It is beyond compare.

Ignoring Olmsted, legislators approved the park’s development on April 4, 1870. But the proposed site was wilderness, mostly giant sand dunes dotted with tangles of scrub oak. Luckily, two intrepid San Franciscans—park surveyor William Hammond Hall and horticulturist John McLaren—rose to the challenge. “They planted trees to block the wind,” explains Ginsburg, discovering that “by mixing barley with sand, they could get things to grow.” In two years, the duo had planted 22,000 hardy saplings. Today, the park is verdant with redwoods and rhododendrons, conifers and camellias.

On the map, Golden Gate Park is deceptively simple. Two linked rectangles stretch from the middle of the city to the Pacific. But it holds a parade of wonders: 10 lakes, two windmills, and a bison herd. Plus, on Sundays, an open-toanybody swing dance class so hot it almost convinces you that you, too, could Lindy Hop to “Jump, Jive an’ Wail.”

It’s a much-used park, with 25 million visitors a year, two major music festivals, and weekly band concerts. There are flower shows, lawn bowling contests, and dozens of races.

And for me? Golden Gate Park has sculpted my life. My wife and I chose our house because it lies next to the park, and the park helped us raise three dogs and one son. It has been our jogging path and our family Christmas photo backdrop. (One year, we dressed our then 4-year-old in a jaunty fisherman’s outfit and sat him outside the Angler’s Lodge.) Above all, the park is our congratulations when we’re feeling good, and our solace when we’re feeling bad.

After years of exploring those 1,017 acres, I’ve come to understand that, like all great urban parks, this one channels its city’s soul. Like San Francisco, Golden Gate Park is radiant but sometimes moody, welcoming to everyone—art lovers, bison lovers, and Lindy Hoppers—and rich in ways that no one could have dreamed of back in 1870. Don’t believe me? Come to the park. I’ll be there.

Treasures of Golden Gate Park

Your ultimate guide to San Francisco’s big backyard

conservatory of flowers

A stately, ornate tribute to the Victorian passion for growing tropical plants in nontropical climes, this palatial white greenhouse is the oldest surviving building in Golden Gate Park, and perhaps the most beautiful. Opened in 1879, the Conservatory of Flowers is one of the last all­wood conservatories left in the United States; its 16,800 panes of glass let sunshine stream in to nurture some 2,000 species of plants, ranging from giant water lilies to delicate polka ­ dotted orchids, from the cascading tassel ferns to the bright coral, extravagantly named Flame Thrower lipstick plant. Step outside and you’ll see flower beds planted in rigorously regimented 19th­century fashion but glittering with one bit of 21st­century bling—French artist JeanMichel Othoniel’s La Rose des Vents, a golden sculpture that gleams as it swivels in the wind.

san francisco botanical garden

No part of the park proclaims its transformation from sandy wildland to Northern California Eden more eloquently than this enclave, which shelters 9,000 different plants from six continents. The park creators entertained the idea of a botanical garden in the 1870s, but that vision wasn’t realized until 1940. Today, you could easily spend your whole visit here. Start at the California Native Plant Garden, sweet with sage, then stroll into the grove of coast redwoods nearby. From there, head to the Mesoamerican Cloud Forest, where tree daisies grow 20 to 40 feet high. Continue on to areas devoted to the plants of South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand. Looking for a choice picnic spot? The sweeping Great Meadow can’t be beat.

GOLDEN

california academy of sciences

The living roof wows you from the get-go: a vivid green landscape with undulating hills, which— you’ll note on closer inspection—are covered with native plants that draw butterflies, bees, and other local pollinators. In fact, every part of the California Academy of Sciences rewards this kind of focused attention. While ascending the walkway in the four-story rain forest, for instance, sharp-eyed visitors might see some of the exhibit’s well-camouflaged inhabitants, such as the spiny flower mantis, blue morpho butterflies, and lime-green Amazonian tree boa. Meanwhile, if you gaze intently into the luminous, starfish-filled Philippine coral reef exhibit, you might notice underwater formations shaped like feathers and leaves, cattails and cacti. But make no mistake: The focus here isn’t just on dazzle. The academy’s Institute for Biodiversity Science & Sustainability also gathers data, sponsoring research expeditions worldwide. To get an in-depth look at the museum and its work—and a peek into the impressive behind-thescenes collection—pony up for the VIP tour.

Sporty spots

ANGLER’S LODGE Jade-green casting ponds sit beside this lodge, home of the Golden Gate Angling & Casting Club. Free lessons for novices take place every second Saturday.

BIKE PATHS Rent a bicycle to explore the park’s paved trails. Cycling is especially lovely on Sundays, when some of the main roads are closed to cars.

BOWLING GREENS

The oldest public lawn bowling club in the United States offers free beginners’ classes twice a week on its impeccably manicured grounds.

SPRECKELS LAKE

On most weekends, scale-model sailboats and powerboats take to the waters of Spreckels Lake— home of the San Francisco Model Yacht Club—for a series of regattas.

STOW LAKE Rent a rowboat or pedal boat to navigate Stow Lake, which wraps prettily around the island of Strawberry Hill. Then hit the boathouse for a sandwich and soda.

de young museum

Sprawling and angular, with a looming periscope tower, the de Young looks a little like a spacecraft just in from Planet Art. The 21st-century museum is sheathed in perforated copper that’s a rich brown today but will eventually oxidize, giving the whole building a blue-green patina that echoes the surrounding foliage. It’s an apt metaphor for the evolving institution, which traces its roots to the 1890s. The de Young is especially strong in American art, counting works such as Albert Bierstadt’s California Spring among its holdings, but Africa and Oceania are well represented too. Shortterm exhibits explore everything from contemporary tattoos to African American art during the civil rights era. Once you’re ready for a break, ride the elevator up that futuristic tower to the observation deck. The views stretch all the way from the residential Richmond District to the skyscrapers of downtown.

Picnic supplies

ARIZMENDI BAKERY

Just two blocks south of the park, this co-op serves fresh-baked artisan pizzas along with the best scones in the world. The corncherry is legendary.

HOOK FISH CO. This small, counter-service joint near the west end of the park traffics in poke and fish tacos. Don’t miss the sublime ceviche.

Dutch and Murphy Windmills

When you reach the park’s west end, you might feel like you’ve stepped into a forgotten children’s book. Above you stand two sentries, which in their heyday pumped thousands of gallons of water through the park. The Dutch Windmill dates to 1902; in spring, tulips bloom at its base. Nearby, the Murphy Windmill (pictured) shines with a 64-ton copper dome, shipped here from the Netherlands.

Bison Paddock

Locals and travelers alike gape outside the Bison Paddock. Here, a herd of regal ruminants graze in their own little prairie, sometimes moving majestically toward passersby before slowly sidling off again. John McLaren imported the first pair in 1891, when the species seemed doomed to extinction. Now, with bison thriving nationwide, this small herd serves as a welcome reminder that environmental crises can have happy endings.

TARTINE INNER

SUNSET The new Ninth Avenue outpost of the beloved bakery turns out breads, salads, and soups. Arrive early to score a morning bun.

WHOLE FOODS

MARKET The upscale grocery store’s Stanyan Street branch, near the park, carries anything you might need for a picnic.

BOTTOM RIGHT: TERRY SMITH IMAGES / ALAMY

Move to the music

GOLDEN GATE PARK

BAND Playing strong since 1882, this community band performs some Sunday afternoons in a band shell that looks like it came from ancient Greece.

HARDLY STRICTLY BLUEGRASS This free October shindig was financier F. Warren Hellman’s gift to the city; Emmylou Harris and Robert Plant have been repeat performers.

LINDY IN THE PARK Hepcats have been swing dancing alongside JFK Drive for 20-plus years; if you’d like to join, drop by for a free half-hour lesson Sundays at noon.

OPERA IN THE PARK

Each fall, San Francisco Opera stars belt out pop standards—plus highlights from the upcoming season— alfresco in Robin Williams Meadow.

OUTSIDE LANDS

MUSIC AND ARTS

FESTIVAL The threeday August extravaganza draws all-star headliners such as Paul Simon, Janet Jackson, and Kendrick Lamar.

japanese tea garden

Walk through the pagoda-style gate, and you enter a wonderland where footpaths meander beneath Japanese maples, a high bridge arcs over the koi pond, and, come spring, cherry trees explode in a brilliant shower of blossoms. Sip a cup of sencha in the teahouse and savor the landscape that has beguiled visitors since it opened as part of the 1894 California Midwinter International Exposition. The garden’s grace is largely the product of one immigrant family, the Hagiwaras: Makoto designed the garden and tended it until his death in 1925; later, his daughter and son-in-law took over. During World War II, the family was forced to abandon their beloved garden when they were relocated to an internment camp. Today, a simple but moving monument—created by the late, great San Francisco artist Ruth Asawa—honors the people who provided the city with this profoundly lovely refuge. ●

peter fish also writes for the San Francisco Chronicle, Sunset, and Houzz.

golden gate neighbor

The Presidio

Seven blocks north of Golden Gate Park sits another wildland. Graced with cypress and eucalyptus trees, sandy beaches, and coastal wetlands, with the Golden Gate Bridge at its northern border, the Presidio is a kind of San Francisco in miniature. The park’s history also mirrors the city’s. The area—once the homeland of the Ohlone people—became a military installation in 1776, controlled first by Spain, then Mexico, then the United States. In 1994 the land changed hands again, becoming a 1,491-acre national park site.

At the visitor center, topographic models and touch screens provide a good introduction to the area. Nearby, inside the Officers’ Club, the Presidio Heritage Gallery presents thoughtful exhibits on park history. The adjacent archaeology lab displays American Indian shell beads excavated from the parade grounds and other artifacts unearthed here.

Modern-day diversions include Star Wars photo ops at Lucasfilm HQ, theme park–worthy displays at the Walt Disney Family Museum, and performances at the newly restored Presidio Theatre. Yet nature remains the park’s blockbuster attraction. A quiet eucalyptus grove hides Wood Line, a piece by environmental artist Andy Goldsworthy, and this spring, seven acres along the wetland shore will be reclaimed as marshland. Dining options range from lively food truck picnics on the Main Parade Ground to haute Spanish delicacies from James Beard Award winner Traci Des Jardins at the Commissary. garrick ramirez

The West’s best city parks

From Phoenix to Seattle, these alluring outdoor spaces offer more than a breath of fresh air, with amazing art and beautiful blooms, shady trails and stargazing.

SALT LAKE CITY Liberty Park

Not far from the city’s lively Ninth and Ninth neighborhood, Liberty Park feels like a leafy exhale. Here, you’ll find the Chase Home Museum of Utah Folk Arts, an airy building filled with kachinas, crochet work, and pop culture–inspired piñatas made by American Indians, Anglo homesteaders, and global artists who have lived in Utah. In Tracy Aviary in the corner of the park, flamingos sunbathe; at midday, pelicans jockey into position for lunch. You might head to the nearby Park Café, a diner that serves all-American standards. The French toast is justifiably beloved.

LAS VEGAS

Springs Preserve

The three rivulets that gave birth to Las Vegas have dried up, but the oasis that contained them persists in the form of Springs Preserve. The 180-acre site is home to succulent gardens, a seasonal butterfly habitat, and cottonwoodshaded trails. Refuel at the Divine Cafe, a friendly lunch spot near the entrance with incredible views of the Vegas skyline.

SEATTLE Volunteer Park

In the midst of this Capitol Hill gem, a century-old conservatory stands tall, its glass panes filtering sunlight onto showy ferns and flame-pink azaleas. Nearby, outside the Seattle Asian Art Museum, Isamu Noguchi’s ring-shaped Black Sun sculpture frames the distant Space Needle. The institution is slated to reopen in February 2020 following renovations.

LOS ANGELES

Griffith Park

It doesn’t get much more L.A. than Griffith Park: The 4,310acre wildland offers dreamy views of the city skyline, yet it unfolds across rugged canyons and chaparral-laced peaks including Mount Lee, home of the hollywood sign. The park also contains the famous Griffith Observatory and the Greek Theatre, where Elton John, Carlos Santana, and countless other icons have performed under the stars.

PORTLAND

Washington Park

Tucked in the forested hills west of downtown, Washington Park is a perfect microcosm of Portland: wild, yet refined. The zoo has slender-snouted crocodiles paddling in the aviary pond, and the MAX station is carved into ancient bedrock. Meanwhile, the International Rose Test Garden is immaculate, a nirvana that overflows each summer with blooms in shades of white, yellow, and magenta.

PHOENIX

Papago Park

Saguaros, mesquite trees, and massive sandstone buttes set a striking backdrop for hiking and mountain biking in this 1,500acre oasis. Along with the showstoppers (Phoenix Zoo and Desert Botanical Garden), you’ll find surprises such as the Hall of Flame Fire Museum.

Here, horse-drawn water wagons, smoke-jumper displays, and photos of heroes honor those who battle blazes big and small. renee brincks

Annual Meeting Notice and Proxy Statement

January 1, 2020

To the Members of AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah: Please be advised that the regular annual meeting of the Members of AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah (“the Association”) will be held at 8 a.m. Pacific standard time on Thursday, March 5, 2020, at the Renaissance Walnut Creek Hotel, Rooms A and B, 2805 Jones Road, Walnut Creek, California. Please bring your Membership card for identification and admittance.

It’s important that your vote is counted at the annual meeting, whether or not you plan to attend in person. Please indicate on the proxy form on the next page your proxy, and then sign, date, and return the form to the address listed at right. If you do attend the annual meeting and wish to vote in person, your proxy can be withdrawn at that time.

ELECTION OF DIRECTORS

The following candidates for election to the Board of Directors have been nominated by the Nominating Committee, per the Bylaws of the Association:

Spencer Angerbauer, Utah

Margie Emmermann, Arizona

Bashir Wada, California

Joseph Warren, Arizona

Daniel K. Whitehurst, California

Because the number of nominees and the number of open director seats are the same, no election of directors will be held, and the candidates listed above will be considered elected, per Section 9 of the Bylaws.

GENERAL PROXY

The proxy form on the next page appoints the person(s) named on the form as your proxyholder(s) to vote and act for you on any other matter to be voted on at the 2020 annual meeting—or at any other meeting of the Members of the Association—during the term of the proxy. The term of the proxy will be three years, unless you indicate your wish to grant the proxy for a shorter term. Consequently, the proxyholder(s) will have broad discretion to represent you and will vote on

your behalf on a broad variety of matters, which may include election of directors of the Association, and/or proposals presented for the approval of Members. As of today, the Association is not aware of any specific proposals to be presented to Members at the 2020 annual meeting or at subsequent Member meetings.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Before filling out the proxy form, please note:

● Every Member is entitled to vote, either in person or by proxy.

● You may attend and vote at any regular annual meeting or at any special meeting of the Membership, whether or not you have signed a proxy.

● If you now have a proxy in effect, you may substitute a proxy of more recent date.

● You may revoke your proxy at any time by written notice.

● Your proxyholder must attend the annual meeting of Members in person in order to vote.

PROXY INSTRUCTIONS

1. Print your name, your address, and your Membership number in the spaces provided on the proxy form.

DIRECTOR BIOS

Spencer Angerbauer

Member since 2013

OCCUPATION CEO, Venture Slopes, LLC, a technology investment and consulting firm. Mr. Angerbauer has been a director of AAA NCNU since 2014, and he currently serves as chair of the Audit, Compliance, and Risk Committee. He also serves as a director of CSAA, AAA Life, and several technology companies. He has also served as a director and chair for charitable organizations such as the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society, after his son was diagnosed with a rare form of cancer several years ago. He earned bachelors and masters degrees in business administration from the University of Utah.

STATEMENT OF VIEWS AAA has been an icon for over 100 years. In order to continue as one of the most trusted and recognizable brands in the world, we must continue to focus on the needs of our amazing Members through continued innovation in transportation, home, and overall life.

2. If you wish for anyone other than Tim Condon (Chief Executive Officer) and Clay Creasey (Chief Financial Officer) to act as your proxy(ies), print their name(s) in the space provided.

3. Sign and date the proxy form on the lines provided. If the proxy is undated, your signature authorizes the Association to insert the date of receipt.

4. Your proxy can only be exercised at the regular annual meeting if it has been signed and filed with the Secretary before the polls open for the first contested issue, if any, at the meeting.

Mail your completed proxy form to: Secretary

AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah P.O. Box 24502 Oakland, CA 94623

You may also fill out the form online at proxyonline.com/AAA. Forms must be received by March 1, 2020.

Kamili Moreland, Secretary

Margie Emmermann

Member since 2000

OCCUPATION Ms. Emmermann is a retired businesswoman and government affairs professional. In her 20-year career in state government, Ms. Emmermann was appointed by four Arizona governors to head key state agencies. She has received recognition and awards for her service to the community, including the OHTLI Award bestowed by the Mexican Government on a U.S. resident for outstanding contributions to the Hispanic community. She is a member of the Board of Directors of AAA NCNU, AAA Club Partners (ACP), and CALA Alliance.

STATEMENT OF VIEWS With a laser focus on Members, AAA is continually looking for opportunities to transform the services we offer and the way we deliver them to best meet the needs of current and future Members. It is imperative that we remain relevant.

Submit this form by mail or online at proxyonline.com/AAA.

Please choose option A or B:

Proxy Option A—I wish to appoint Tim Condon (CEO) and Clay Creasey (CFO), and their respective successors as Chief Executive Officer and Chief Financial Officer of AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah as my proxies to attend the annual meeting of the Members of AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah, a California nonprofit mutual benefit corporation, on Thursday, March 5, 2020, and any adjournment or postponement of that meeting.

Proxy Option B—I wish to appoint the person(s) named below as my prox(ies) to attend the annual meeting of the Members of AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah, a California nonprofit mutual benefit corporation, on Thursday, March 5, 2020, and any adjournment or postponement of that meeting.

In the event that a proxyholder is not designated, the Chief Executive Officer and Chief Financial Officer of AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah will be deemed to be the proxyholders appointed hereby. Said proxies shall vote in their discretion on all matters which may come before such meeting(s). Each proxy shall have power of substitution and any one of them shall have the powers hereby granted. You may revoke this proxy at any time. This proxy, unless revoked or replaced by substitution, shall remain in force for three years from the date hereof; but, if you wish this proxy to remain in force for only one year, check here:

Voting on other matters and at other meetings. I further appoint the person(s) named above my lawful proxyholder(s) to vote and act for me and in my name at all regular and special meetings of AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah, or at any adjournment or postponement thereof, held during the term of this proxy, in transacting any business that may come before said meetings, including but not limited to the election of directors, as fully as I could do if personally present. Said proxyholder(s) shall vote at their discretion on all matters that may come before such meetings.

THE DATE OF RECEIPT WILL BE INSERTED BY AAA)

Bashir Wada

Member since 1978

OCCUPATION An NCNU director since 2008, Mr. Wada is a financial and business consultant. He most recently served as a Senior Vice President at Capmark Financial Group, an international real estate financial company. Previously, Mr. Wada was a senior executive for an emerging markets alternative asset manager and a founding partner of a venture capital firm. Mr. Wada started his career at Wells Fargo Bank. He has a BBA from the University of Wisconsin, Milwaukee, and an MBA in finance from the University of California, Berkeley.

STATEMENT OF VIEWS Thanks to its long history of community service, AAA NCNU won the Points of Light Award for excellence in workplace volunteer programs. AAA NCNU employees are involved in volunteer activities, such as child car seat safety checkpoints and Komen’s Race for the Cure.

Joseph Warren

Member since 2000

OCCUPATION Retired CFO, Treasurer, and Secretary of CoorsTek. Additionally, Mr. Warren was CFO of White Electronic Designs. Among his civic and professional activities, he served as a board member for the Epilepsy Foundation of Denver, the Financial Executives Institute, the Grand Canyon Association, and AAA Arizona. Mr. Warren received his bachelor’s degree in accounting from Arizona State University. He has served on the Board of AAA NCNU since 2016.

STATEMENT OF VIEWS Since AAA was formed, it has worked hard to be helpful to its Members. As we go forward, AAA will evolve so that relationship is sustained through the 21st century.

Daniel K. Whitehurst Member since 1981

OCCUPATION Businessman and attorney. Mr. Whitehurst’s career has centered on the acquisition and management of funeral service companies in California. He also has experience working in government, education, and media. Mr. Whitehurst has a master’s in urban studies from Occidental College and a law degree from UC Hastings. He is board chair of the California Issues Forum and is on the Leadership Council of California Forward. He was appointed to the AAA Board of Directors in 1999 and served as chair from 2005 to 2007.

STATEMENT OF VIEWS We are investing in technology and expanded services to remain valuable to Members, and we are committed to our culture of integrity and reliability. It’s critical to streamline AAA’s national structure to keep up with consumer preferences. I also want to see AAA increase its visibility and impact in the communities we serve.

Smart Guide

→ Disneyland tips and tricks

Try these expert strategies to make the most of your time in the Happiest Place on Earth.

For some, a visit to Disneyland and Disney California Adventure is a dream come true after years of anticipation. For others, it’s just another happy Tuesday. Whether it’s your first time at the Magic Kingdom or your 100th, here are ways to maximize the fun.

by avital andrews

DINNER AND A SHOW

A special prix fixe dinner at Carthay Circle includes reserved seating for the World of Color.

SMART GUIDE

↘ What the Disneyland pros know 4

1. Don’t rush. Sure, you could do the Disneyland Resort in a day, but that’s just not enough. Three days is ideal for out-of-towners, but even two will make for a more relaxed, fulfilling experience. Park Hopper tickets let you visit both parks—Disneyland and California Adventure—on the same day.

2

Plan ahead but be flexible. Make a list of the rides, character greetings, and other experiences that are most important to you and your group. But bear in mind that some of the best Disney memories—such as when Mickey takes your child’s hand and walks her down Main Street, U.S.A.—are made on the spur of the moment.

3. Get MaxPass. Adding MaxPass to your ticket is worth the extra $15 per day. Once you’ve enabled the feature using the Disneyland Mobile app, it lets you get a FastPass for attractions that offer it, from anywhere in the two parks. Reserve the rides you’re most excited about first, then arrive at each ride’s FastPass entrance in the time slot shown on your app. MaxPass also lets you download photos snapped by park cameras and photographers.

Feed your children well. Park restaurants are experts at placating tiny eaters. Look for the Disney Check that appears next to the healthiest menu items. Character dining experiences require reservations, which are available up to 60 days in advance. Staying onsite? Little ones can enjoy room service in their Mickey PJ’s at any time of day.

5

Take it to go. Enjoy a wrapped-up sandwich from La Brea Bakery or Jolly Holiday Bakery Cafe while you’re in line for a ride, or have a picnic while saving a prime parade-viewing spot. If you really want a sit-down meal during the day, try an unconventional time (lunch at 2 p.m., say).

Mickey and friends at Sleeping Beauty Castle.

Disney California Adventure.

Maximize your time. Buy your tickets in advance if they aren’t included in your package. When staying at a Disney hotel, take advantage of the Extra Magic Hour to enter the parks 60 minutes before everyone else. If you’re driving in, arrive an hour or two before the parks open to allow time for parking your car, walking to the entrance (usually faster than taking the shuttle), and going through security. People in your party who don’t mind sitting separately on rides can access them faster using the Single Rider lines.

7. Tag team it. If your kids are too young for the more thrilling attractions, use the parks’ Rider Switch service: One parent waits in line and rides while the other stays with the kids. Then the parent who sat it out gets to skip the queue.

8. Equip your phone. Download the Disneyland Mobile app before you arrive. It enables the MaxPass (tip No. 3) and lets you order food ahead (tip No. 9); it also allows you to check wait times and find characters. Bring a portable charger or plan on spending time at one of the charging kiosks. The parks sell portable charger kits for $30; if you use up one charger, they’ll trade you a fully charged one for free.

Order ahead. Use the Disneyland Mobile app to place your order at any of the parks’ 29 quick-service restaurants, then go straight to the pickup area to have your food handed to you. If your kid really loved that chicken skewer from Bengal Barbecue, you can order another with a few clicks—again, without waiting in line.

10. Find fine dining. If you’re feeling fancy, try one of the parks’ chef-driven restaurants. California Adventure’s Carthay Circle looks like a movie theater on the outside, but inside you’ll find a glittering dining room worthy of Hollywood’s golden era, with menu options such as Korean chile-glazed steak and spicy shrimp a la plancha. In Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa, Napa Rose showcases Californiainfluenced French fare; book the chef’s counter to watch the food pros ply their craft. In the Disneyland Hotel, Steakhouse 55 offers a Disney-infused British afternoon tea, as well as meaty dinners. You can make reservations 60 days ahead of time— and it’s a good idea to do so.

Eat the way you want. Every Disney restaurant has at least one vegetarian option—and sometimes a vegan one. Some of the parks’ best meat-free meals include the broccoli-and-cheese soup at Pacific Wharf Café, the focaccia caprese sandwich at Jolly Holiday Bakery Cafe, and the hearty, vegan Ithorian Garden Loaf at Docking Bay 7 in Galaxy’s Edge. The parks also make a point of accommodating people with food sensitivities; almost all of the resort’s restaurants can provide menu alternatives for diners who steer clear of gluten, eggs, milk, soy, peanuts, shellfish, and other allergens.

Grilled shrimp and Spanish chorizo with wine at Alfresco Tasting Terrace.

Sadness and Joy at Pixar Pier.

SMART GUIDE

↘ Fun for all ages

Babies and toddlers

Remember that kids under the age of 3 get in free.

● Bring a comfortable baby carrier. The rules recently changed to prohibit larger strollers and all wagons. You can rent a stroller at the parks for $15.

● The parks’ two baby centers (at the end of Main Street, U.S.A., in Disneyland and on Pacific Wharf in California Adventure) are stocked with nursing chairs and training toilets; they also sell diapers, wipes, baby food, and formula. All restrooms have at least one changing table.

● When your little one gets sleepy, head for quiet spots such as the Main Street Cinema or the accessible side of the Sleeping Beauty Castle Walkthrough.

★

BEST ATTRACTIONS

Casey Jr. Circus Train, Disneyland Railroad, It’s a Small World, King Arthur Carrousel, Storybook Land Canal Boats.

Preschoolers

They’re old enough to revel in the parks. Just plan for occasional breaks.

● For tykes who need to blow off steam, California Adventure’s Redwood Creek Challenge Trail has suspension bridges, a climbing wall, and a rope course. In Disneyland, Tarzan’s Treehouse and Goofy’s Playhouse are great places to run the wiggles out.

● Even if your kid has outgrown strollers, bring or rent a small one anyway. It’ll give little legs a needed rest and come in handy for naps and lugging merchandise.

● Do not miss the parades. The talented performers make their youngest audience members feel special and involved.

★

BEST ATTRACTIONS

Enchanted Tiki Room, Fantasyland (except for Snow White’s Scary Adventures), Finding Nemo Submarine Voyage, Many Adventures of Winnie the Pooh, Mickey’s Toontown.

Kids and tweens

While kids adore the rides, there’s so much more to do.

● The Play Disney Parks app lets kids access virtual park experiences, find treasures hidden in plain sight, and test their knowledge of Disney trivia.

● Youngsters thrive on interaction. At California Adventure’s Animation Academy, budding artists can learn how to draw Disney characters; at the Sorcerer’s Workshop, they can see how that art comes to life. In Disneyland, aspiring magicians can learn new tricks at Main Street’s Magic Shop, and in the Downtown Disney District, tech geeks should check out the VOID’s virtual-reality walkthroughs.

★ BEST ATTRACTIONS

Guardians of the Galaxy—Mission: Breakout!, Incredicoaster, Luigi’s Rollickin’ Roadsters, Millennium Falcon: Smugglers Run, Radiator Springs Racers.

Luigi’s Rollickin’ Roadsters.

It’s a Small World.

Teenagers

Independence is the key here. The parks make it easy for parents to let teens go without worry.

● Older kids can do Downtown Disney District with friends, sans parents. The admission-free and car-free area is an ideal hangout for teens, hopping with live music and fun shops.

● Another great place to let teens do their own thing: Galaxy’s Edge. They can take control of the iconic Star Wars ship on Millennium Falcon: Smugglers Run. (The other marquee ride, Rise of the Resistance, opens this winter.) They can also customize their own light sabers or buy Jedi “artifacts.” The whole area plays a soundtrack with all-new compositions by the legendary John Williams.

BEST ATTRACTIONS

The mountains: Space, Splash, the Matterhorn Bobsleds, and Big Thunder Mountain Railroad.

Adults

You’re never too old for Disneyland—even if you don’t have kids. Going as a grown-up can be every bit as much fun as when you were younger, just in different ways.

● There are plenty of reasons to stay up late at Disneyland. The nighttime fireworks shows, for example, with their impressive pyrotechnics, nostalgic music, and cutting-edge lasers and projections, astound even jaded adults. And the parks themselves, when all lit up after dark, are more beautiful than ever.

● Adult beverages are available throughout the resort. The new Lamplight Lounge serves dry-ice cocktails with views of Pixar Pier. Alfresco Tasting Terrace replicates a patio in California’s wine country, complete with high-end vino by the glass and small bites to match. At Disneyland Hotel’s Trader Sam’s, ordering a Shipwreck triggers a faux thunderstorm. Quaff a tasty pint at California Adventure’s walk-up Bayside Brews stand.

● All three Disneyland Resort hotels have well-equipped gyms and inviting swimming pools. They also offer

Save time and money by purchasing Disneyland Park Hopper tickets at your local AAA branch. Or let AAA Travel book your Disneyland Resort vacation: Visit AAA.com/disneylandparkhopper.

free fitness activities, including Rise and Stretch, a 45-minute early morning exercise class in California Adventure, Grand Morning Stretch at the Grand Californian, and the Get Up & Go Power Walk, a quick two-mile circuit through California Adventure before it opens.

● The idea of learning while on vacation might make kids’ eyes roll, but more seasoned visitors will enjoy the stories behind the parks during guided tours. Walk in Walt’s Disneyland Footsteps teaches guests all about the founder’s life and work. (AAA Members get 15 percent off when booking the tour as part of a package.) The Grand Californian’s free Art of the Craft Tour, about the early 20th-century arts and crafts design movement, showcases the hotel’s handmade artifacts, detailed furniture—and hidden Mickeys.

★ BEST ATTRACTIONS

Whatever floats your boat!

Big Thunder Mountain Railroad.

Oga’s Cantina at Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge.

Spotlight

Will travel for truffles

Once a luxury item on menus, truffles now lend earthy flavor to french fries, popcorn, and other mainstream fare. Get a taste of the fashionable fungi at the 15th annual Oregon Truffle Festival (above)— held in Eugene (Jan. 24–26) and Yamhill Valley (Feb. 14–16)—or the 10th annual Napa Truffle Festival (Jan. 17–20) in California. Expect shroom-centric eats, activities, and seminars at both events.

JAN. 15–FEB. 26 Axe men

Each winter, top guitarists come together to showcase their fleet-fingered skills for International Guitar Night. This year, the gig jams its way through venues in Alaska (Jan. 15–21), Montana (Feb. 10–16), and Northern California (Feb. 20–26) and features four ace strummers, including slack-key master Jim “Kimo” West.

FEB. 26–MARCH 8

Embracing your inner Alaskan

Anchorage’s Fur Rendezvous or “Fur Rondy”—leans in to Alaskans’ pioneering spirit with dozens of wild and wacky activities citywide. You can participate in (or just watch) everything from outhouse races and beard competitions to the Running of the Reindeer, in which the animals sprint side-by-side with festivalgoers.

THROUGH FEB. 17

↑ Natural beauties

The deep connection between art and nature is highlighted ever so elegantly in Exquisite Creatures at Oregon Museum of Science and Industry in Portland. In this temporary exhibit, artist and naturalist Christopher Marley stages reclaimed vertebrates and sustainably collected bugs— from tropical fish to iridescent insects (above)—as precisely arranged 3-D works of wonder.

TOP: KATHRYN ELSESSER; BOTTOM: CHRISTOPHER FARLEY

JAN. 17–FEB. 16

JAN. 31–FEB. 16

↑ Must-sea theater

Who will save the residents of Bikini Bottom from a looming volcanic eruption? Find out in Broadway’s award-winning The SpongeBob Musical, rolling into Phoenix (Jan. 31–Feb. 2), Las Vegas (Feb. 4–9), and San Francisco (Feb. 12–16) with the same bold color and sweet surrealism as the animated series.

THROUGH MAY 25

Living the dinosaur life

One of the most complete Tyrannosaurus rex skeletons ever assembled makes her world debut when Victoria the T. Rex appears in Phoenix at the Arizona Science Center. The colossal Cretaceous period dino is the main draw at this immersive and interactive exhibit showing what life was like 66 million years ago.

JAN. 25–FEB. 13

Snow show

Music, juggling, balancing, and acrobatics, all against a backdrop of gently drifting snow: Flip Fabrique circus brings its newest work of visual artistry to theaters across the West with Blizzard. The show storms through Oregon (Eugene, Jan. 25; Portland, Jan. 26), California (Arcata, Jan. 28; Chico, Jan. 30; Modesto, Jan. 31; and San Jose, Feb. 4), and Salt Lake City (Feb. 13).

LATE JANUARY

↑ San Francisco’s legendary sea lions

They may seem like permanent fixtures, but sea lions have been calling San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf home just since 1989. Celebrate the 30th Anniversary of the Arrival of Sea Lions at Pier 39 with walking tours, special presentations, and painted sea lion sculptures. (Check pier39 .com for exact dates.)

Winter wonderland

When winter comes to California’s Sierra Nevada, storms blow in and snow dusts the peaks and valleys, rivers and forests. En route to June Lake in the secluded Eastern Sierra, AAA Member Ingrid Makau of Monterey, Calif., stumbled upon a lovely slice of tranquillity on Highway 88. Silver Lake, a bustling summer destination near Kirkwood Mountain Resort, feels in cold months as though it’s in a peaceful state of suspended animation. “It was the first time I had ever traveled anywhere by myself,” says Makau. “When I came across this spot, I had a ‘wow’ moment. Snowflakes were falling softly, blanketing the buoys on the water’s surface, and I was all alone. It was the most beautiful experience of my life.”

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Post an original photo from a recent trip on Facebook or Instagram using #ViaAdventure. Your image may be published in print, or online at AAA.com/via.

Discover Winter

A Southern California Coastal Escape

Enjoy a unique and relaxing getaway to Terranea Resort, a Southern California coastal paradise where winter blues take on a delightful new meaning. This 102-acre retreat is surrounded by the tranquil Pacific with a view like nowhere else in the state—yet just minutes from Los Angeles. A firsthand experience will allow you to truly appreciate the Mediterranean heritage, combined with the classic California elegance, woven into every inch of the architecture on the Palos Verdes Peninsula. In addition to spacious guest rooms, suites, bungalows, casitas and villas, Terranea also offers a variety of amenities including four heated saltwater pools with private

cabanas, an award-winning 9-hole, par 3 golf course, and an adventure concierge that helps guests explore the natural beauty of the landscape with a wealth of activities—from stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking, to tidepooling, falconry, and oceanside painting. If you are seeking an immersive wellness experience, the 50,000-square-foot spa overlooking the Pacific Ocean, with 25 treatment rooms, a fitness center, boutique and delectable dining, is the ideal destination. Terranea’s collection of nine restaurants promises exceptional dining perfectly paired with an equally beautiful backdrop. At Terranea Resort, adventure and relaxation come as natural as the California sun.

→ For more information, visit Terranea.com or call (844) 330-1674.

TERRANEA RESORT®

Words don’t do it justice.

Some things in life just can’t be described. And to truly understand them, you must experience them yourself. Live life differently on the beautiful Palos Verdes Peninsula, a hidden gem on the Los Angeles coast.

As a AAA member receive 10% off at time of booking.

Enjoy the Monterey Peninsula & Vicinity

PINE INN

Surrounded by quaint shops, art galleries, hidden courtyards and—only four blocks to Carmel’s white-sand beach that offers breathtaking views of Pebble Beach and Point Lobos—Pine Inn offers complimentary full American breakfast buffet Mon-Fri AAA rates and a $20 per person dinner credit at our in-house restaurant, Il Fornaio (limit 2 dinner coupons per room per day).

→ (800) 228-3851

pineinn.com

LONE OAK LODGE—AAA RATED

Traditional motor lodge in Monterey offering cottages with kitchens, suites and single & doubles. All rooms have refrigerators, microwaves & Starbucks coffee. Also, free wi-fi & parking, a scuba gear rinse area, EV charging, indoor jacuzzi, sauna and exercise room. 4.5 Trip Advisor & AAA approved. Via readers book direct and take 15% off Monday–Thursday stays.

→ (831) 372-4924

loneoaklodge.com

INTERCONTINENTAL THE CLEMENT MONTEREY

Overlooking Monterey Bay and close to the Monterey Bay Aquarium is Monterey’s premier waterfront hotel. Situated on historic Cannery Row, the hotel offers affordable luxury and the stylish C restaurant + bar and al fresco C-side patio providing stunning ocean views from every table. Enjoy The Spa, fitness center and whirlpool at Monterey’s most desirable location. Call to make your reservation.

→ (866) 781-2406

ictheclementmonterey.com

BIG SUR RIVER INN

Amidst towering Redwoods along the scenic Big Sur River lies the historic Big Sur River Inn. Founded by one of Big Sur’s most prominent families, it has been the site of memorable family vacations and quiet getaways for many generations. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner indoors, or on our outdoor riverside deck, we provide “the essence of the Big Sur experience...”

→ (800) 548-3610

bigsurriverinn.com

BIG SUR ADVENTURES

Big Sur Adventures offers one-of-a-kind tours of all of the area’s best sights! See Carmel, Monterey, and Pacific Grove on the back of one of our electric bikes— the 750-watt motor makes climbing the region’s hills and inclines a breeze! Take the scenic route on the 17-Mile Drive Tour and see one of the country’s most picturesque rides.

→ (831) 244-0169

BikeBigSur.com

PINE ACRES LODGE

Nestled in the pines between Monterey and Pebble Beach and near the 17 Mile Drive is Pine Acres Lodge—a timeshare community. Within walking distance of windswept beaches, exceptional dining and worldclass golf, Via readers can discover shared ownership at only $500. Call for details. Year-round rentals are always available.

→ (831) 372-6651

pineacreslodge.com

VISIT GILROY

Make Warm Family Memories This Winter in Gilroy

Celebrate the wonder of the season at Gilroy Gardens Holiday, where you can meet with Santa, go ice skating under the stars, watch the live Charlie Brown Christmas musical show, and enjoy sparkling light displays throughout the park.

Find perfect Christmas gifts for everyone on your list (at 25-65% savings) at Gilroy Premium Outlets, one of Northern California’s largest outlet centers. Warm up with some winter wine tasting at over 30 wineries and tasting rooms along the Santa Clara Valley Wine Trail. And speaking of trails, be sure to bring your hiking

boots and explore nearby parks like Mt. Madonna, Harvey Bear-Coyote Lake, Henry Coe, and Pinnacles National Park.

And of course, if you’re coming to the Garlic Capital of the World, you’ve got to get some genuine Gilroy garlic!

Visit the California Welcome Center Gilroy (located in Gilroy Premium Outlets near Forever 21) to pick up your “Road to Garlic” map to all the best garlic shops, restaurants, and experiences (including garlic ice

cream). You can also pick up charming souvenirs for your trip to Gilroy and the Golden State.

→ Find budget-friendly hotels and everything you need to plan your great Gilroy getaway at VisitGilroy.com.

Enjoy the Beautiful San Francisco Bay Area

100-acre Oakland Zoo. From elephants, tigers, primates and California natives like Grizzlies, buffalo, jaguar, and mountain lions, there is much to explore! Visit the hilltop Landing Café with stunning views, reachable by aerial gondola! Oakland Zoo is dedicated to the humane treatment of animals and wildlife conservation globally.

→ (510) 632-9525

oaklandzoo.org

AQUARIUM OF THE BAY

Walk through the tunnels at Aquarium of the Bay to view marine animals. Then, feel starfish and bat rays before watching river otters cavort with each other—all while learning how to make a difference in ocean conservation.

We’re accredited by the Association of Zoos and Aquariums and are the only Smithsonian Affiliated Aquarium in California.

→ (415) 623-5300

aquariumofthebay.org

ESCAPE TO SAN FRANCISCO’S NATIONAL PARK HOTELS

of San Francisco, the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, Sausalito, and the Pacific Coast. Complimentary pickup from Fisherman’s Wharf, Nob Hill & Union Square. Gift certificates available for special occasions—combine a flight with lunch in Sausalito or a ferry out to Alcatraz to explore the infamous prison with its audio tour.

→ (800) 400-2404

sfhelicopters.com

WINCHESTER MYSTERY HOUSE—

BEAUTIFUL & BIZARRE

The Winchester Mystery House™ is the beautiful but bizarre mansion built by Sarah Winchester. Cursed by the spirits of Winchester Rifle victims, Mrs. Winchester built the dizzying Victorianstyle structure with many odd and mysterious features. The Winchester Mystery House™ offers daily tours of the 160-room estate. Tickets available online.

→ winchestermysteryhouse.com

Experience a magical winter getaway to the Presidio with an overnight stay at the Lodge or Inn. Enjoy spectacular Golden Gate Bridge views while cozying up around the outdoor firepit at one of these two intimate B&Bs. Complimentary breakfast, wine & cheese reception, and shuttle service to downtown SF. For a AAA discount, use the promo code: VIA.

→ (415) 561-1234

presidiolodging.com

SAN FRANCISCO SEGWAY TOURS

#1 San Francisco Tour, TripAdvisor 2015-18

Segway or Electric Scooter tours with live narration through headsets. Start in Fisherman’s Wharf or Golden Gate Park. Segway through Waterfront, Chinatown, Little Italy or all of GG Park. Scooter routes to GG Bridge or in GG Park. Training included. Segway riders age 12 years+, 100–250 lbs. Scooter riders age 16 years+. Starting at $55 per person.

→ (415) 429-7038

electrictourcompany.com

Rated #1 Tour in SF 2015-18!

oaklandzoo.org

H I D DE N GEMS

NATIONAL PARKS IN YOUR BACKYARD

Beneath the Golden Gate Bridge’s north tower, you’ll find Fort Baker. Amid restored historic army buildings, trails climb gently up from Bay. Enjoy a hike or bike ride, explore the seacoast, bring your dog too! Grab a bite at Cavallo Point, or relax with a book in an Adirondack chair on the circling green lawn.

Discover this hidden gem: Walk south along the Battery Yates Trail to a point where you can savor unobstructed views of the bridge, Alcatraz, and San Francisco. It’s the perfect spot to marvel at the nature around you.

For more Bay Area adventures: parksconservancy.org/hiddengems

These special moments are brought to you by the Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy. Join us to conserve Bay Area National Parks for generations to come.

San Francisco

Marin FORT BAKER

Photo: Michal Venera

Hidden gems! Parklands Major roads

Delight your mind this holiday season.

Curious Contraptions

Awaken mischievous machines with the push of a button.

Nov. 21, 2019–Jan. 26, 2020

PIER

Glow

Excite your atoms at our dazzling annual festival of lights.

Dec. 5, 2019–Jan. 26, 2020

MORE

Welcome AAA Members! Find your exclusive discounts at AAA.com/exploratorium

SAN FRANCISCO’S #1 MUSEUM ON TRIPADVISOR

VISIT BUENA PARK

Top 5 Reasons to Visit Buena Park

Nestled in Southern California is the lively town of Buena Park—only 5 miles from Disneyland®

WORLD-FAMOUS ATTRACTIONS Start your adventure at Knott’s Berry Farm theme park, with over 40 rides like GhostRider—the fastest and longest wooden roller coaster on the West Coast. In the summer, cool off at Knott’s Soak City water park with 23 slides, lazy river and wave pool. Local Tip: Sample boysenberry-inspired dishes at the birthplace of the Boysenberry.

DINNER SHOWS At Pirate’s Dinner Adventure, enjoy a meal as pirates swoop from riggings of an 18th century galleon. Feast at Medieval Times while

battles of steel and steed ensue. Visit Teatro Martini for comedy and a fivecourse spread. Local Tip: Cheer on the Teatro Martini cast, and they might let you onstage.

FOODIE FAVORITES Visit Yelp’s #1 rated restaurant, Porto’s Bakery & Café. Gobble up fried chicken at Mrs. Knott’s Chicken Dinner or conjure up drinks at The Cauldron Bar. Local Tip: Rock & Brews offers over 60 craft beers.

SEASONAL CELEBRATIONS Every season offers new and fun experiences in Buena Park. Local Tip: Explore all seasonal

EASY TO PLAY

Home

events at VisitBuenaPark.com/Events.

BUDGET-FRIENDLY ACCOMMODATIONS

Relax at one of Buena Park’s comfortable accommodations offering great amenities, free parking and no resort fees. Local Tip: Most hotels offer free shuttles to local attractions.

→ For a FREE Travel Guide, call 800-541-3953 or go to VisitBuenaPark.com/AAA.

Affordable hotels and dining EASY TO STAY

With thrilling roller coasters, interactive dinner shows and award-winning dining, it’s easy to play for days in Buena Park. After all the excitement, rest easy in one of the many affordable hotels. Now, how easy is that? Find out more at VisitBuenaPark.com/AAA

VISIT BERKELEY

Berkeley Holiday Traditions

Remember when holiday shopping felt ... good? A time to celebrate the season and take a “cheer” break. When you knew you’d found the perfect gift because you were excited to give it.

That tradition of great holiday shopping lives on, in Berkeley. Discover unique gifts along pedestrianfriendly shopping streets lined with twinkly lights and local, independent retail in neighborhoods around the city.

Find small-town charm with big-city retail offerings on Solano Avenue. Stroll holiday-bedecked Fourth Street for artisanal finds and on-trend retail. Browse blocks of boutiques in Elmwood. Dazzle DIY enthusiasts with home-improvement must-haves from

the West Berkeley Design Loop. Stock up on retro cool with vinyl and tiedye on Telegraph Avenue. Shop adventure apparel and indie art in the Gilman District.

For 1-of-a-kind’ers, there’s the celebrated Berkeley Artisans Holiday Open Studios. Held Saturdays and Sundays between Thanksgiving and Christmas, it’s an open invitation to the workshop stores of more than 100 artists and artisans. Also, not to miss: Telegraph Avenue Holiday Street Fair and the Fourth Street Holiday Light-Up.

Berkeley is the place to find the perfect gift for everyone on your list.

And there’s something for you too: the local shopping experience you’ve been longing for, and a place to rediscover the joy of the season.

More spirit. Less stress. Revive, revel, and yes, relax! Create your new holiday tradition in Berkeley.

→ To learn more: visitberkeley .com/via