Nest — Winter 2017-18

home design real estate

WINTER 2017-18

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Home Tour: Timber-frame in Tunbridge

House portraits for homeowners

Vintage goes Full Circle in Winooski

The man behind the architectural illustrations

Sniffing out Vermont Artisan Coffee’s new HQ

How to hygge up your home

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Settle In It’s the time of year we think merry and bright — or at least cozy and warm. All of those adjectives describe this issue. We take a tour of a new, energy-efficient home built by a young couple in rural Tunbridge. We stop for a hot drink and a look around at the new rustic-meets-industrial quarters of Vermont Artisan Coffee & Tea in Waterbury Center. We fall for the colorful jumble of vintage home goods at Winooski’s Full Circle. And we get some tips for how to make a hygge house, Vermont-style. Read on for all this and more. Happy wintering!

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At Home in the Woods ............ 4 A young couple on a budget builds a rural residence

BY M O LLY WAL S H

Pictures of Home ..................... 9

Mike Biegel creates house portraits with pen and soul

BY RA CHE L E L IZ AB E T H J O N ES

In the Loop ...............................12

What goes around comes around at Winooski décor store Full Circle

BY S A DI E WIL L IAMS SEVENDAYSVT.COM

Visual Aide ...............................15

Architectural illustrator Lincoln Brown renders would-be realities

BY A M Y LIL LY

12

Replanted.................................18

In new quarters, Vermont Artisan Coffee & Tea expands its beans-and-leaves biz

BY CA RO LY N S H AP IR O

How to embrace the Danish concept of hygge in your home

BY S U Z A NN E P O D H AIZ E R

18 ON THE COVER Sarah Priestap and Jeff Porter’s Tunbridge living room 9 House

portraits for homeowners

12 Vintage goes Full Circle in Winooski

15 The man behind the architectural illustrations

18 Sniffing out Vermont Artisan Coffee’s new HQ

22 How to hygge up your home

PHOTO BY SARAH PRIESTAP

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4 Home Tour: Timber-frame in Tunbridge

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF SARAH PRIESTAP AND JEFF PORTER

At

Home in the

Woods A young couple on a budget builds a rural residence B Y M O L LY WA L S H

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Sarah Priestap and Jeff Porter knew they were really living in the country last winter: One snowy day, a car went off the steep dirt road to their house in Tunbridge and remained in the ditch for weeks. “They couldn’t get it out until spring,” recalled Priestap.

The hazards of driving aside, the young couple is happy to be ensconced in a 1,600-square-foot timberframe house that they built mostly by themselves.

It sits in an old orchard surrounded by deep woods.

State leaders worry that Vermont — especially rural Vermont — is not attractive to young people, but these two clearly didn’t get the memo.

Priestap, a 28-year-old wedding photographer, and Porter, a 32-year-old house builder, are homesteading in a fashion that is both forward-thinking and old-fashioned frugal. Their light-saturated house has oversize, triple-glazed tilt-and-turn windows, a heat pump, and heavily insulated 12-inch walls. It’s an energy-efficient abode with none of the drafts that rattle through the old clapboard farmhouses in Tunbridge, population 1,309.

That’s the modern part. But the couple used the timeworn traditions of thrift and resourcefulness to build the house within their $273,000 budget. That included $56,000 for the purchase of their 12-acre lot on a narrow road with a covered bridge at the bottom.

The couple scoured the internet for deals, paying $3,500 in a Black Friday bargain for their stove, fridge, dishwasher, washer and dryer. They drove to Rhode Island to pick up their woodstove after finding the $3,500 model they wanted priced at $1,200 on Craigslist. Porter built the timber frame and did most of the other construction, working on weekends and AT HOME IN THE WOODS

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HO ME T O UR

THEY’RE HOMESTEADING IN A FASHION THAT IS BOTH

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WINTER 2017-18 SEVEN DAYS NEST 5

Above: Jeff Porter and Sarah Priestap at the groundbreaking for their home

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF SARAH PRIESTAP AND JEFF PORTER

At Home in the Woods « P.4

Friends gave her most of them, but she occasionally buys new specimens.

Porter, who gets that it’s one of his wife’s simple pleasures, is encouraging.

“If it’s, like, a terrible day, I’ll say, ‘Go buy a plant,’” he explained.

The kitchen in the open, L-shaped first floor is simple but handsome, with a double copper sink, a walnut countertop that Porter hand-planed and a drain board that slopes to the sink. He also made the open cherry shelving.

The big, southern-facing windows look out onto a slope filled with gnarled apple trees. At the edge of the woods, Priestap’s shaggy Icelandic stallion, Glaumur, grazes in a small pasture.

Even 27-year-old Glaumur was a deal, acquired from a former a landlord who was ready for the horse to go to a new home. The couple’s property doesn’t

have a full barn yet (though it does have a run-in shed for Glaumur), so Priestap’s saddle sits in the spacious mudroom of the new house. “I just tie him to the front porch and get him ready there,” she said of the horse.

Priestap grew up in Erie, Penn.; Porter was raised in Frederick, Md. The two met in 2008 when both were students in the photojournalism program at Rochester Institute of Technology in New York. They were skateboarding in a college parking lot when conversation started, and many adventures together ensued — including a cross-country trip to Alaska after graduation.

During that journey, Priestap and Porter realized that they missed Vermont, where both had done photo internships at the Valley News, the

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So they made their way back to Vermont and lived in various rentals.

She worked at the Valley News while he launched his own business as a timber framer and woodworker. At first Priestap did wedding photography on the side; now she’s left the newspaper and made it her full-time gig. Porter puts down his tools to help her shoot some 20 weddings annually.

The couple admits they’ve had to get used to certain aspects of country living, such as driving 30 minutes to buy groceries. They’ve noticed that their friends in Brooklyn seem to want to move to the Vermont countryside whenever they visit. And then they don’t.

But Priestap and Porter have gotten to know many local young farmers and craftspeople, as well as neighbors who have lived in the area for decades. They look forward to one day adding on to their house to make room for children. Overall, country living is good. Said Priestap: “The pros totally outweigh the cons.”

SEVENDAYSVT.COM

at night after his other home-building jobs. Together they blew in insulation, tiled the bathroom and put the plaster finish over the drywall.

The couple struggled to get the mix and timing right with the plaster — many early batches hardened before they could get it on the walls, and, when they did, the first results were “terrible,” according to Porter.

But they wisely started in a cubby space in the loft, and, by the time they made it downstairs to the first floor, the results were good. The light, textured surface complements the home’s exposed beams.

Tunbridge sits in the valley of the first branch of the White River. Its claim to fame is the Tunbridge World’s Fair, which began in 1867 and still draws hordes every September for ox pulling, contra dancing and beer drinking.

The town seemed like something out of Charlotte’s Web, Priestap and Porter thought. They purchased their lot in 2015.

They started building in September 2016 and moved into the loft of the partially finished house the following March.

“There was still no running water, no heat for a little bit,” recalled Priestap. “We just got to know a lot of friends really well by showering in all of their houses.”

Today, the setting seems idyllic — especially after their years of living in creaky rentals with dank basements.

(The pair agreed they didn’t want one in the new house.) Sometimes when Priestap wakes up in the airy master bedroom, she can’t quite believe the place is theirs. “I walk down the stairs every day and think, Holy crap, this is my house,” she said.

The home’s thick walls create deep windowsills that accommodate Priestap’s collection of houseplants, from fiddle-leaf ferns to ponytail palms.

“I’m the plant hoarder,” she confessed.

“I have 42.”

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Pictures of

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In 1986, after a year-anda-half stint at a Florida ad agency, Mike Biegel returned to New Jersey to live temporarily with his father.

A graduate in illustration from Syracuse University, Biegel has an eye for imagery — and he noticed a small painting on the wall in the foyer. It was a picture of the house that a real estate agent had given his dad as a closing gift.

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WINTER 2017-18 SEVEN DAYS

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COURTESY OF MIKE BIEGEL

ART

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“I thought the house portrait was terrible,” Biegel recalled in a phone conversation. “It was an insult to my industry … I just remember sitting there looking at it, right away [thinking], I’m going to pursue this.”

And he did. Biegel began to advertise his artistic services, including house portraits, by direct mail. When he started to contact real estate agents directly, he really hit his stride. Using a crow-quill calligraphy pen, Biegel would work from photographs to create intricate ink drawings of newly sold homes, to be gifted to their new owners.

Often, Biegel said, happy homeowners would order sets of custom note cards featuring their house portrait.

After moving to Killington in 1999, Biegel combined his skill of creating greeting cards with his love of the Vermont landscape, and soon Vermont Greeting Cards was born. Tourists, snowbirds and locals alike may have seen his pamphlets at welcome centers and rest stops around the state.

As a freelance illustrator, Biegel has moved fluidly between his greeting card business and custom home portraits, as well as commercial buildings and a host of other assignments (including some for Seven Days). Whether depicting a quintessential Vermont covered bridge or a family home, Biegel’s illustrations have a signature look: precision of line and extreme attention to detail.

Indeed, for Biegel, the more detail the better: “I love anything with texture in it,” he said, citing stone walls and shingle roofs as favorite examples.

Mike Biegel creates house portraits with pen and soul

And yet, even in stark monotone — black, blue or another contrasting shade on white paper — the images convey a sense of intimacy. As the artist puts it on his website: “A tremendous amount of heart and soul is invested in each tiny little line.”

About that quill pen, Biegel writes, “It’s not flashy or state of the art … but I’m proud to wield this tool and claim it as a badge of honor.”

It seems the old-fashioned look appeals to his clients. Biegel noted that hand-drawn imagery “has always been the style that people have gravitated to, versus the electronic style of artwork that’s so prevalent today.”

One particular assignment that fits this artisanal ethos was an illustration of the Simon Pearce flagship store in Quechee. With its picturesque waterfall and mix of building materials — brick, stone, clapboard, concrete — drawing the building was an exciting task for Biegel.

Other Vermont clients have included Pico Mountain and the Killington Grand Resort Hotel, as well as a wide range of residential homes, from a camp in Pittsfield to a saltbox in Waterbury Center to a turreted residence in Vergennes. A standard home portrait averages $500; business assignments generally cost more.

Earlier this year, Biegel relocated to Long Island, N.Y., with his wife, Lori — but he’s retaining his ties to Vermont.

An avid skier, Biegel said he’ll be back for the slopes but also for the scenery and the inspiration it provides.

“When I began skiing, I wasn’t only hooked on the sport,” he explains on his website, “but enchanted with the even more remote back roads, the undulating hills, the old barns and covered bridges.”

Working closely on other people’s property does come with one challenge, though: “It’s hard to let them go,” Biegel said of his house portraits. “I feel like I’ve been living at these people’s homes.”

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF JESSE KECK

In the Loop

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What goes around comes around at Winooski décor store Full Circle B Y SAD IE W IL L I A MS

A visit to Full Circle in Winooski is a stimulating experience.

At first, the jumble of styles and colors in the home décor shop can be overwhelming. But owner Melissa Mills’ artistic touch makes the visit enjoyable — and fruitful. It’s not hard to envision a bookcase or dining table from the store in your home.

Hardwood floors and clean white walls provide the backdrop for a shop brimming with vintage and new items — think scented candles in glass jars with colorful illustrations, small brass tabletop sculptures of egrets and smoky quartz-colored rocks glasses. Mills, 49, stages it all in artful tableaux. A table set with cups and napkins tied up with little bows appears ready for a party.

Full Circle opened in February 2017 and is Mills’ debut effort in retail; before this, she worked at Seventh Generation. Actually, she still does.

Mills moved from managing the

customer service team to the marketing department last year.

“I love Seventh Generation. I wanted to stay there and figured it would probably be a good move for me to do both in tandem,” she says.

Mills studied interior design at Bay Path University in Longmeadow, Mass. “I never used the interior design [professionally],” she says, but “it’s something I’ve always wanted to do. I saw this space on Craigslist, and it was just a blank slate.”

It didn’t take much to convince Mills that opening a store was a good idea.

Melissa Mills, owner of Full Circle in Winooski

“I called the guy that owned it, he gave me a tour, and I put the money down,” she says.

Nest caught up with Mills at Full Circle to learn more about her biz, her love for Winooski and her buying habits.

I imagine there’s a lot to learn when you’re starting your first business.

Were there any hiccups in figuring it out?

There was a lot to learn. I started doing the research in September last year, right after I signed the lease.

And the Vermont Small Business [Development Center] was a huge help; I met with them once a month, and [they] would help me with my business plan. [They] put me in connection with a lot of people from the City of Winooski and taught me how to do my finances. I also did a lot of research online.

Where did the inventory come from?

I had a lot of inventory at my house — I like to shop! And I like to refurbish stuff. I went on a couple of buying trips, too. My parents live in Florida, so I

HOME DÉ C OR

spent some time there and bought a bunch of stuff.

How did you get it back?

I shipped it. That was my first business mistake. Never ship a lot of stuff — it costs a fortune! Then I went to [Brimfield Antique Flea Market] with my sister. We rented a truck and filled it and just had the best time.

Now that the business is somewhat established, I have customers coming to me wanting to get rid of things they have in their closets or basements or attics. [I’ll take it] as long as it fits with the aesthetic, which is pretty eclectic.

There’s a lot of different styles within the store. I usually buy based on what I like but also trying to think of customers’ taste. If I had it my way, everything would be midcentury modern.

I HAD A LOT OF INVENTORY AT MY HOUSE —

I LIKE TO SHOP!

ME LISSA MILLS

What inspired the store’s name?

There’s a double meaning. I think, for the furniture, a lot of it’s coming full circle. You look at this table, and it was built in the ’50s. My grandparents had this table. When I found this, I was like, “I have to get this.” And it’s still perfectly good. It’s functional, it’s awesome, and it brings a lot of good feelings to people. They’re like, “Oh, my God, my parents had that same set!”

So, I would say the furniture, bringing it full circle and giving it new life and not just throwing it in the dump.

And myself, I think, coming full circle, really loving design and finally [having] enough courage to dive into it.

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Why Winooski?

The Winooski community is very important to me. One of my focuses in opening this business was to be very accessible to as many people as I possibly could [and] giving back to the community. Once in a while, if I have extra stuff that isn’t selling, I’ll put a box outside for free.

And I have these little girls who live behind the store who are my favorite customers. They’re in second or third grade, they’re all related, and they come in every Saturday and, I swear to God, spend four hours here. When it’s slow, we do arts and crafts; they sit at my register and play music — we have the best time. And the grandmother will come over and say, “You need to leave Melissa alone,” but I totally enjoy it. They’re adorable.

I just want to be able to contribute to the community, to give back as much as I can. The city is growing, which I think is exciting.

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INFO

What skills did you bring from customer service and marketing to this job, and what have you had to learn?

I think the most important piece has been customer service. That’s just ingrained in me. I’ve been in that field for a really long time, and I feel really comfortable with the front-of-the-store type of functions, dealing with customers, making sure they’re happy. The thing that I’ve had to learn is mainly the finance stuff, taxes and licenses.

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A friend of mine who sells home goods online thinks she might need a storefront at some point, because, she says, “I have a problem: I can’t stop! Am I a hoarder or an entrepreneur?”

I have that conversation with so many customers. Am I a hoarder? That show [“Hoarders”] kind of ruined it for all of us, because we’re like, “Oh, God, is that me?” My husband said, “If you bring home one more décor item, I’m just going to explode.”

It got to the point where I was hiding stuff in my closet before we got home and then taking it out and saying, “Oh, that old thing, I’ve had it forever!”

The other thing with him was changing around the rooms all the time. It got to the point where he would just ask, “So, where’s the remote this week?”

So, hoarder or curator?

I would prefer curator.

SEVENDAYSVT.COM

Who are your customers?

A lot of millennials. Of course, Winooski is an up-and-coming community. A lot of young couples live here, young college kids. And then older ladies. It’s a huge range.

Because you were interested in renegotiating the space and making it feel good.

Exactly, and I love change.

Lovethat that vintage look?

Love look?

I wish I had shared my home sooner.

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A R CHI T ECT UR E

At his small home office in Westford, architectural illustrator Lincoln Brown folds his six-foot frame into a rolling desk chair in front of five computer monitors. The 42-year-old former Category One competitive road cyclist is also a serious DIYer. He has made nearly everything in sight: the cornerwrap desk, the computers (though not the monitors), the bunk beds where his niece and nephew sleep when they visit, and even the house itself. Brown trained as an architect, and he has that profession’s drive to design environments down to the last detail.

Lincoln Brown pictured with a rendering of GOhome, his semi-futuristic envisioning of a mobile home

Architectural illustrator Lincoln Brown renders would-be realities

» P.17

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VISUAL AIDE

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Lincoln Brown’s illustration of Moosilauke Ravine Lodge in Warren, N.H.

IS THIS A PROPOSAL, OR DOES THIS BUILDING ALREADY EXIST?

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IMAGES COURTESY OF LINCOLN BROWN

B Y AMY LILLY

YOU’VE GOT TO LOOK CLOSE TO SEE:

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Visual Aide

That impulse informs his day job, too — which is creating photorealistic renderings of buildings and interiors yet to be built. At two monitors, Brown calls up illustrations of a proposed new storefront interior for Ceres Natural Remedies, which sells cannabis-derived products in Burlington and Brattleboro. He clicks through a half dozen different combinations he has made of display-counter surfaces, lighted niches, floors and window frames. Every version appears real.

Then there’s the curved brick wall behind the display counter. There is no telling that wall from a photograph of a real one — but it’s faux. Brown, who can access folders containing nearly endless brick types, uses composite images to create the bricks’ shadows. With a grayscale layer, he can define how far the ER I C FA R R EL L bricks extrude from the wall. He can even control the degree and direction of reflecting light.

Eric Farrell, a local developer, has hired Brown to illustrate nearly all of his projects in the last decade, from Bacon Street Lofts in South Burlington to the planned Cambrian Rise in Burlington. Farrell uses the visuals to facilitate approval by investors, municipal boards and Act 250 reviewers, as well as permitting by designreview boards. Of Brown’s illustrations, Farrell says, “You’ve got to look close at them to see: Is this a proposal, or does this building already exist? They’re that good.”

Brown not only excels at what he does; he’s the only independent architectural illustrator in Vermont. Clients of Lincoln Brown Illustration are mostly developers, both local and national, as well as some architectural firms. They find him solely by word of mouth, he says.

beautiful.

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still doing so much work for Truex, however, that the firm sent him off with licensed software that would otherwise have cost him “eight grand,” he said.

Brown uses 3D Studio Max — the industry standard in the movie business.

(Architects use slightly less complicated 3D modeling software programs, such as SketchUp and Revit.) Such software has enabled architectural illustration to move far beyond hand-drawn 2D

renderings — your basic floor plans, elevations and section drawings. “Most people can’t visualize 3D when they’re looking at 2D,” Brown noted.

The illustrator makes visualizing easy with a library of 654 tree models, thousands of models of furniture and many ways of pictorializing people.

“You have to buy each one,” he said; the image of a Barcelona chair by Mies van der Rohe, for example, costs $50.

(A photo of the architect hangs above Brown’s desk, near a painting of a bike racer by Essex-based artist Stefan Bumbeck.)

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Lincoln Brown illustrations, from top to bottom: Hotel Vermont, Ceres Natural Remedies and the Moran Plant

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Brown has made renderings of, to cite only a few examples, Smith Buckley Architects’ Hotel Vermont and the Burlington International Airport Skinny Pancake restaurants; Christine Burdick Design’s interiors at Dealer.com and the Essex Resort & Spa; and the Winooski and South Burlington downtown redevelopment plans by TruexCullins, where he worked as an architect-intraining from 1999 to 2002.

Brown has illustrated dozens of FedEx ground distribution centers for Scannell Properties in Indiana, which were subsequently built all around the U.S. He has rendered housing and hotels for Prime Companies in New York, and he’s created a construction animation video of a historic football stadium addition for BL Harbert International in Alabama.

Says Rolf Kielman, principal at TruexCullins, “Around here, when we see a rendering in the papers, we usually say, ‘Oh, that’s probably Linc.’ He’s the king of the hill, so to speak.”

Brown shares his rural home with his wife, metal artist Becky Macomber, two cats and a dog. He designed the house, which overlooks the Browns River valley, to be nearly net-zero.

Brown also made the eight server computers stored in a downstairs closet.

And he made the closet. In fact, he can conceive and build virtually anything — in his minimal-modern aesthetic — that customers might want through Modern Vermont, his custom design company.

Despite his skills, Brown has never been one to make much noise about himself. While earning bachelor’s degrees in architecture and building science at Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, his presentations impressed professors less for his spoken commentary than for his visuals, laboriously made on a Pentium 486. “I’m not good at verbalizing,” he claimed. He was even skeptical about being the subject of an article, suggesting that, since a picture is “worth a thousand words,” he could just send an architectural illustration instead.

After graduating from college, Brown, who had been bike racing since age 16, attempted to become a pro cyclist. Illustration was a means of supporting himself while training in New Jersey, Arizona and, since 1999, Vermont. At TruexCullins, he became “the go-to person for renderings,” as Kielman put it.

Brown left the firm to start his own, Lincoln Brown Illustration, so that he could pursue biking for another two years — his last attempt. He was

Brown prefers to use ghostlike silhouettes of people, such as the skateboarders he put in the foreground of his renderings of a revived Moran Plant for the now-defunct New Moran development team. Clients, however, generally want realistic people, so he sticks to fleece-wearing Vermont types for local jobs. Once, the University of Vermont asked Brown to replace his mostly white passersby with a multiracial mix in a rendering of the George D. Aiken Center renovation, though he had spent hours on-site photographing the Caucasian flow.

Brown’s rates start at $1,600 for a typical illustration of a building exterior — his most common product — and $10,000 for a package of exterior and interior illustrations and animations of larger projects.

Architect Jesse Beck, president at Freeman French Freeman in Burlington, hasn’t yet hired Brown. He said it’s “cheaper and quicker” to do basic renderings in-house. When highly polished renderings of the kind Brown produces are needed for sales brochures or fundraising, the firm has tapped an architectural illustrator in upstate New York.

Larger firms with which Freeman works either use their own in-house illustrators — PKSB Architects in New York produced the renderings of the Burlington Town Center redevelopment, for example — or “go straight to China” for their illustrations, said Beck.

“When we get them from China, we’ve got to change the trees. The vegetation and mountain shapes aren’t too New England.”

At Truex, Kielman gets email offers daily from illustration mills in India and Bangladesh. But he believes that Brown is unlikely to be put out of business. “He’s always slightly ahead of the curve,” Kielman said. “Plus, his architectural training gives him a real head up, so he understands very quickly what you might be talking about.”

Kielman recently hired Brown to do nighttime and daytime renderings of a reimagined UVM Fleming Museum of Art, with an entrance on Colchester Avenue, to interest prospective donors.

He sent a few of the images to Nest by email, writing, “These renderings are so real that I would think the reaction by most viewers would be, ‘Wow. The project looks done already.’”

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That’s how closely the nearly 15,000-square-foot structure, which serves as the beverage company’s new home, resembles a barn. On former farmland off Route 100, the red, steel-sided building with a pitched roof and dormers evokes rustic simplicity and a sense of history.

The preparation of coffee and tea certainly is steeped in traditions that go back centuries. But inside this plant, only a few aesthetic details recall the past. Most of the open warehouse contains sleek, high-tech equipment befitting the demands of modern-day manufacturing — even for a specialty roaster that’s small by commercial coffee standards.

“From the outside, it looks like a regular barn, but it isn’t,” says Mané Alves, who owns the business with his wife, Holly.

Last winter, the company started moving into the facility from its former site in Waterbury. At the old

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In new quarters, Vermont Artisan Coffee & Tea expands its beans-and-leaves biz When you arrive at Vermont Artisan Coffee & Tea in Waterbury Center, you may expect to see rows of cows inside, waiting to be milked.

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PHOTOS: JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR

Top: The new Vermont Artisan Coffee & Tea headquarters; bottom: Anji Heath running the large roaster

Cutline

CO MMER CI AL AR CHI T ECT UR E

location, zoned only for manufacturing, whether they’re using the right process Vermont Artisan had no café; now it has to achieve their intended results.

“We cup it blind,” Alves explains. one, which opened in June.

“Then it’s your peers and you, as well, Alves, a Portuguese native and former California winemaker, retrained that are going to pick what tastes the his palate for hot beverages after he and best. It’s not based on biases that they had before.” his wife moved to Vermont. In 1995, A few tables placed in front of the he launched Coffee Lab International, roasters enable café customers to watch a tasting and testing center that does the action. Vermont Artisan uses these quality control for clients worldwide, smaller machines to roast limited including large chains that serve coffee batches. roasted by outside companies but lack Behind them, a 60-kilometer the in-house expertise to judge it. He Renegade handles most of the compaadded the wholesale roasting operany’s roasting. Alves built it from metal tion, Vermont Artisan Coffee — and, he brought back from Portugal. later, Tea — in 2001 and combined the “This is our workhorse,” Holly says. companies.

“I call it the red Ferrari.”

Joe Greene, principal of Joseph In 2011, the company’s original Architects in Waterbury, began working location at Route 100 South and Route on Vermont Artisan’s new HQ three years ago. He says that Alves had a clear 2 flooded during Tropical Storm Irene.

Vermont Artisan lost 32 giant bags of vision from the beginning. “He wants coffee beans, and the “Ferrari” ended to be able to have a client walk in and up under three feet say, ‘This is state of water. of the art. This is Miraculously, definitely highthe machine tech. And who restarted, but the would have known owners began it would be inside looking for new this barn-looking quarters. And not thing?’” just to get out of a The new buildflood zone: They ing also houses the needed more space Vermont Artisan to boost producSchool of Coffee MAN É ALVES tion, and they and its classes in wanted to imple“cupping” (tastment practices that create superior ing), roasting and brewing — including coffee. training for the international Specialty Most small roasters, he says, don’t Coffee Association. At the old site, the bother to clean off the “dust” or chaff classroom shared the lab space. left behind by the beans’ skins before The café, at the southern end of roasting them. Alves designed a beanthe building, is where agrarian meets cleaning system that he hopes to soon industrial. Exposed wood beams cross put to use. The green, pre-roasted beans the ceiling. Wainscoting of old barn will spill into a chute and go through a boards lines the walls around a cement floor. Huge front windows allow natural cleaning mechanism, after which they’ll be vacuumed into one of four ceilinglight to flood the space. The varnished high storage silos. For now, the beans wood bar is a recycled former bowling remain in big woven shipping bags lane. Overhead, blown-glass pendant labeled by origin — Colombia, Mexico, lights dangle from the long handles of Ethiopia — and stacked on tall metal farm tools. shelves.

Behind the counter, the brewing Once the plant is fully operating, an equipment looks as spotless as surgical intricate maze of conveyors and pipes tools. Baristas chat with customers will move the beans into the roaster, about flavor nuances derived from the then out and up toward the ceiling into source of the beans or the roasting a sorting machine that culls beans (by method. The sophistication extends to color) that aren’t properly roasted. That the café bathrooms, where Japaneseequipment was recycled from Cabot made toilet seats heat up automatically.

Hosiery, the Vermont manufacturer Through a big window behind the of Darn Tough socks, which used it brewing station, café customers can to weed out loose threads. From the see four roasting machines, each with sorter, gravity will drop the beans into different features, including a woodsmaller silos for packaging. fired version from Israel. This is where The tea part of Vermont Artisan Alves conducts roasting classes. His occupies one small room that holds bins students, who come from all over — China, Australia, Canada — are mostly commercial roasters who want to learn REPLANTED » P.21

FROM THE OUTSIDE,

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heat the entire building. An exterior silo — which further enhances the farm theme — holds the pellets.

Supplementing parking spaces in front of the café, a carport for 20 vehicles is capped with solar panels.

The owners hope to glean most of their electricity off the grid, even though they run a power-intensive business.

The Alveses adapted their ventilation system to burn the particles released by roasting, rendering the smoke invisible, though the scent of cooked coffee beans remains.

Finally, the building features reclaimed materials wherever possible. Stairway landings are made from discarded barn boards. The building’s multipaned windows came from an old school.

Coffee-themed artworks, which the owners collected during their travels, appear all over the plant. Some are big, bold paintings of field workers by artists in the coffee-growing hub of Brazil.

Others are mixed-media reliefs that incorporate coffee berries and beans.

As Alves says, “It’s coffee everywhere.”

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of leaves — such as hibiscus blossom, chai masala and green jasmine — imported from China, Sri Lanka, India and South Africa. Even the tea has its technology: A Japanese-made machine wraps it in the company’s fine-mesh steeping bags, made of fully compostable material.

At the back of the warehouse and up a few stairs, a classroom features automatic-drip and espresso machines on counters along the walls. An advanced lighting system provides blue illumination to mask colors that standard red-based bulbs would show.

Color sways flavor assessments, Alves says; a darker hue, for example, suggests richness.

“We basically teach you how to work on the coffee sensory environment and analyze what is your ability to taste — not just coffee, but everything,” he says.

Also upstairs, a kitchen awaits a possible baker to supply the café with housemade pastries. Behind it is the new $250,000 testing lab. The sterile space includes commercial-grade grinders, machines to test the integrity of packaging and devices to measure color consistency.

Designing the building to complement the landscape wasn’t the only nod to the environment. The Alveses invested in a wood-pellet system to

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Northern Comfort How to embrace the Danish concept of hygge in your home

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SEVEN DAYS

WINTER 2017-18

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BY SUZ A NNE PODHAIZE R

In 1985, Swedish IKEA opened its first store on U.S. soil, in a suburb of Philadelphia. Since then, Americans have associated the business, and its motherland, with all things home. The superstore sells everything from flatware to wearable baby blankets to a line of variously flavored pickled herring.

Now, another Scandinavian country is changing our notions of what the inside of a house could, and should, be. In 2016, the Danish concept of hygge (pronounced hue-gah) hit the mainstream. What does it mean? The untranslatable notion enfolds the ideas of coziness, charm and comfort. In a way, a hygge home is kind of like the eponymous Danish pastry: a sturdy exterior wrapped around a delicious filling.

Part of the concept is that functional and decorative items needn’t be pricey, but they should tell a story. Shopping local is the perfect starting point for getting your hygge on — purchases from friends and neighbors will hold a special spot for them in your home. When days are short and cold, coming home to a convivial, cheery space is crucial.

And note: Every one of your senses should be involved.

Aromas, sounds, cozy pillows and afghans, steaming beverages — all combine to create the warmth and contentment we need right now.

So, as the seasonal holidays and dead of winter approach, we turn our attention to hygge — Vermont-style.

HOME DÉ C OR One Steep at a Time

Any time of day, a mug filled with a fragrant tea or an herbal tisane is a lovely offering to a guest. The aromatic steam will make the whole house smell lovely, and, after being out in the cold, cradling a warm mug in your hands is always a pleasure.

Hanging out solo?

A cup makes an excellent companion to a book, bath or movie marathon.

Try the herbal selections from Free Verse Farm & Apothecary in Chelsea. Its shop offers straight-up tulsi and peppermint, as well as blends.

Heat Tea consists of ginger, cinnamon, fennel and other warming herbs. For a lighter touch, get some Rosy Cheeks, which combines rose petals, rose hips and rose geranium.

Want a little pick-me-up in your cup?

Stone Leaf Teahouse in Middlebury offers a curated selection of teas from China, Taiwan, Nepal and other far-off lands.

The house-roasted maple oolong stands up to chilly days. Or take home a tin of black or green tea from Vermont Artisan Coffee & Tea in Waterbury Center.

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In a way, the sounds in a house are part of its décor. There are unintentional noises, such as creaking floors, dripping faucets, voices from another room, the crackling of logs in a fireplace. And then there’s music. Whether in the background or foreground, the songs we choose to play can set the tone for our interactions with each other.

Our taste in all things is subjective, and that can be intensely true for music. For a relaxing evening in a hygge-fied home, though, you might want to choose soothing sounds, whether a piano sonata, sultry jazz, vintage soul or chill electronica. Or perhaps the 2014 synth-instrumental album Vermont, made by a German band also called Vermont, is just the thing to play while you take a hot bath, whip up something in the kitchen or settle in for an intimate convo with a friend.

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There’s nothing like lying on a sheepskin rug in front of a roaring fire. The owners of Vermont Natural Sheepskins in

Warm lighting is a hygge must. When overhead lights are too harsh, a combination of charming lamps and a few well-placed candles can make any 206 College Street, Burlington VT 05401 room glow. The Lamp Shop on Pine Street, in Burlington’s South End Arts 1.888.425.8838 | vermontfarmtable.com District, offers vintage and custommade lamps to fit any style of décor, along with bulbs and fixtures that crafty types can use to make their own.

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The benefit of a long winter? A long baking season. Eating well is the primary reason for turning on the oven, but it has the added benefit of warming up the house. The aroma of roasting meat, spiced cookies or toasty homemade granola is the proverbial icing on the cake.

In 2015, author Katie Webster released Maple: 100 Sweet and Savory Recipes Featuring Maple Syrup. As the title says, it’s all about goodies made with Vermont’s favorite sweetener. The book includes recipes for sap-baked beans, maple-bourbon pumpkin pie, and a potato-and-sausage breakfast skillet with greens. All are delicious ways to use up this year’s syrup before the sap starts running again.

When you’re short on time, go ahead and cheat a little with frozen cookie dough from Vermont Cookie Love in North Ferrisburgh. Flavors include holiday sugar and oatmeal with dried cranberries. You can go from zero to hero in less than 20 minutes, including baking time.

Randolph refer to their biz as the “the only nontoxic sheep and goatskin tannery in the United States.”

That means they tan their own hides, using practices learned from a master tanner, and avoid using chrome, formaldehyde and aluminum sulfate, which are typically present in goods made from animal pelts.

The finished pieces, in an array of colors from cream to chocolate brown, are gorgeous — and pricey. And, because the company uses hides from its own herd, the supply is finite.

Those who can’t spring for an entire sheepskin can take advantage of local wool. Thanks to the number of critters grazing on Vermont pastures, it’s plentiful and affordable.

The Mad River Woolery in Waitsfield offers everything you need to knit a scarf, crochet a hat or weave a blanket, including small looms and patterns. The wool is carded, dyed and spun in-house.

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