2016 VISITORS GUIDE to ALASKA

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Be inspired by the light of the Aurora Borealis. Renew your energy under the Midnight Sun. Experience the warmth of Fairbanks— Alaska’s Golden Heart—and the gateway to Denali, Interior and Arctic Alaska. Make the Morris Thompson Cultural & Visitors Center your first stop to planning your Alaskan adventure.

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INTRODUCTION

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here’s probably an algorithm that could match you with the perfect travel companion—the one who knows how to re-fold a map, equitably divvy the french fries on a road trip or casually make friends with the locals. Until the world’s next Mark Zuckerberg makes that into an Internet-age reality, though, why not take some tips from Alaska locals while planning your next adventure in the Last Frontier? For this year’s visitors’ guide, we tapped into Alaskans’ insider knowledge of the state and put together 11 itineraries for 11 different kinds of travelers.

Alaska is a fisherman’s paradise, of course, but it’s also so much more. Inside you’ll find

the tideline hotspots for Beachcombers, where Culture Lovers go to experience life and history, the Thrill Seekers’ top danger zones and the can’t-miss spooky sights for Ghost Hunters, among others.

I’ve spent 20 years—more than half my life— living in five different Alaska cities/towns and, confession time, I’ve still never seen a polar bear in the wild or touched down on an Aleutian Island. I do, however, have exceptional map origami skills, play a mean game of cribbage when camping and know how and when to just be quiet and soak in a moment. So, what I’m saying to all you Arctic Explorers and/or Glampers is, “Take me with you!”

BONUS: Find more itineraries and Alaska stories online at showmealaska.net

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Jamie Gonzales Editor

Alice Rogoff / Publisher Maia Nolan-Partnow / Editorial Director Jamie Gonzales / Editor Viki Spiroska / Production Coordinator Aaron Jansen / Creative Director Joshua Genuino / Art Director Rejoy Armamento / graphic designer Kelly Day-Lewis / Layout contributers Bailey Berg, Suzanna Caldwell, Sara Loewen, Kirsten Swann, Nina Wladkowski, Rejoy Armamento, Joshua Genuino

VisitAnchorage.net

SALES Tia Conley, Joy Guest, Linda Gutierrez, Nick Humphreys, Tony Lewkowski, Meghan Mackey, Brianna McKibben, Brandi Nelson, Kelsey Newman, Emily Rohrabaugh, Clare Tilley, Erika Watsjold

Copyright Š 2016 Alaska Dispatch News P.O. Box 149001 Anchorage, Alaska 99514 Please send letters to the editor to jgonzales@alaskadispatch.com, and include your name, city of residence and phone number. We cannot guarantee publication of letters, and we reserve the right to edit letters for length.

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here’s the ethereal orange-pink of the alpenglow on the Chugach Mountains, the deep milky blue of glacier-fed lakes and rivers, the rich reds and browns of the tundra and the pale greens of the northern lights. From the long, tangled coastline to the sweeping boreal forest of the Interior, the Last Frontier is a land of color and contrast and complex perspectives. For artists, it can be the perfect getaway. So where does one begin?

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THE ANCH

ORAG E MUSEUM AT RASM USON

CENTER

ALASKA'S ART CAPITAL First, look to the words on the wall of the Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center at the Anchorage Museum.

“Esghallghilnguq, Nagaqullghilnguq, Nanghiillghilnguq, Nalluksaghqaq.”

“What you do not see, do not hear, do not experience, you will never really know.”

—Anderson To truly experience the art and culture of the Last Frontier, you need to plan a visit to Alaska’s largest museum.

Spread between three floors of gallery space in the heart of Downtown, the Anchorage Museum is home to more than 800 maps, 14,000 publications, 26,000 objects and 575,000 photographs. The exhibits run the gamut, from historical artifacts to contemporary pieces by prominent Alaska artists.

The Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center is the place to start.

THE ARTIST

An exhibit at the International Gallery of Contemporary Art in Anchorage. | PHOTO BY DON MOHR

With its listening area, video displays and tall, eye-catching artifact cases, the room at the western end of the second floor is devoted to the cultures of 11 Alaska Native peoples— Tsimshian, Haida, Tlingit, Athabascan, Yupik, Inupiaq, Cupik, Unangax, Alutiiq, Eyak and St. Lawrence Island Yupik. A visit to the Arctic Studies Center gives travelers invaluable perspective into the art shaped by the north.

It’s no stagnant display: The glass cases open up so elders and artists can come study the objects, learn from them and help the museum understand their historical uses and importance.

“This exhibition really wanted to touch upon that while there are 10,000 years of history, this is a living culture,” said Laura Carpenter, the museum’s public relations

manager.

That theme carries throughout the museum.

Our Story, an exhibit (on display through Sept. 11, 2016) curated by local artist Drew Michael, features an eclectic variety of pieces by an array of other indigenous artists. Other galleries throughout the museum feature similarly diverse perspectives and mediums.

The displays at the Anchorage Museum are about cultural understanding just as much as art, so take some extra time here. Plan to spend a few hours.

On your way out, stop to browse through the art in the museum gift shop or enjoy the flowers in the garden outside. At the right time of day, you can see the sunset reflected in the building’s bright glass façade.

From there, you’re only a few blocks

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away from multiple cafes, bars, restaurants—and Anchorage’s one-of-a-kind International Gallery of Contemporary Art. The inconspicuous gallery space is tucked into the first floor of a historic building at the corner of West Fifth Avenue and D Street. In the late 1940s, the Loussac-Sogn Building was office space. Today, it houses apartments on the top floor and, on the first, some of the hippest First Friday receptions in town.

The IGCA aims to support developing artists, encourage experimental art, challenge public perceptions and provide a forum for contemporary art exhibits in Anchorage. Those exhibits often stand in stark contrast to the more traditional modes on display elsewhere in the state.

Strolling through the clean, white gallery space, visitors might find an augmented reality exhibit featuring Alaska historical fiction, an Alaska Photographic Center juried exhibition, a display of sculptures by students from the University of Alaska Anchorage or a quirky study in recycled objects featuring things like plastic vials and pool balls.

The IGCA shows visitors a different side to the wide spectrum of Alaska art.

For another view, hit the open road and head south on the Seward Highway to the Sterling Highway.

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Downtown Anchorage, corner of 6th Ave and C St. ANCHORAGEMUSEUM.ORG

Flights from Anchorage: Anchorage Museum 907-929-9200 anchoragemuseum.org International Gallery of Contemporary Art 907-279-1116 igcaalaska.org

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THE ARTIST

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The four-hour drive to Homer is filled with scenic vistas.

You’ll travel the length of Turnagain Arm and through Turnagain Pass, cruise along winding rivers and around rocky mountain feet. Stop at a pull-off to soak in the views.

Finally, you’ll reach Homer, the quaint, curious town at the end of the Sterling Highway. Photogs should pause at the Baycrest Hill scenic overlook before heading down toward the heart of town. On a clear day, you’ll capture volcanos and a full view of Kachemak Bay. Once you’re in town, look for the Bunnell Street Art Center (106 W. Bunnell Ave.).

The Homer gallery features fine art from an ever-changing

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Bunnell Street Art Center.

collection of artists—watercolor painters, choreographers, textile artists, photographers, illustrators and others. Like the Kachemak Bay area and the vast Alaska landscape around it, Bunnell Street teems with life and color. On any given weekend you might find a concert, an art class or a reception for a new exhibit. Plan accordingly.

Wanderers can easily spend two or three days exploring Homer’s beaches, shops and restaurants, so visit BunnellArts.org for an upto-date calendar of First Friday shows, musical performances and other events, and try to catch one while you’re in town.

Save an afternoon to take a ferry ride across the bay to the picturesque community of Halibut Cove.

More than a dozen local artists live and work here, and it’s easy to see why. Nestled within the bounds of Kachemak Bay State Park, the community is surrounded by stunning natural beauty. When you arrive, you’re not just a tourist—you’re a guest.

To get there, book a seat on the Danny J, a

PHOTO COURTESY OF BUNN

ELL STREET ARTS CENTER

repurposed fishing boat that sails from Homer twice daily. Reservations are required, and you can make one at the Halibut Cove booking office on the Homer Spit.

It’s a quick, pretty, six-mile trip across the water. When you arrive, head for the Halibut Cove Experience Fine Art Gallery, a space committed to advancing and celebrating the work of the artists who call the cove home.

Much of the art here is closely tied to the area’s vivid natural environment—you can see it reflected in paintings, pottery and other mixed mediums. Be inspired.

Then wander the boardwalk, catch a bite of fresh seafood at The Saltry, watch the sun sink low over the water, and go make some art of your own.

Bunnell Street Art Center 907-235-2663 bunnellarts.org

Halibut Cove Experience Fine Art Gallery 907-296-2215 halibutcoveexperience.com

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THE ALASKA NATIVE HERITAGE CENTER

ith 11 distinct Alaska Native groups, the 49th state is bursting with a wide variety of culture all its own. Start in Anchorage where you’ll get an introduction to each group’s culture and history, cruise down through Cordova and learn about regional traditions before voyaging over to the state capital and finally landing in Sitka, where Tlingit and Haida culture continues to be an ever-present part of daily life. Spend some time immersed in Alaska heritage and learn firsthand how people have thrived in the northernmost state.

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A L A S K A N AT I V E C U L T U R E 101 Just outside of bustling downtown Anchorage, the Alaska Native Heritage Center is dedicated to educating visitors about Alaska Native culture and history, through workshops, classes, storytelling, song and dance, celebrations, films, exhibitions and more.

The Alaska Native Heritage Center spans 26 acres and includes the beautiful Hall of Cultures, a theater and the large Gathering Place that is center stage for dances, storytelling and Native games demonstrations, as well as six authentic life-sized Alaska Native dwellings that surround Lake Tiulana.

Alaska Native Heritage Center (Anchorage) 907-330-8000 alaskanative.net

SOUTH E AST CULTUR E S TH E SOUND A ND T H E D E L TA The Ilanka Cultural Center in Cordova, Alaska, living up to its namesake (ilanka is the Alutiiq word for “family”) is devoted to preserving and fostering the traditions of Alaska Natives from the Prince William Sound and Copper River Delta regions with museum exhibits, art classes and a gift shop that features local artists. Since its opening in 2004, the center has shared the heritage of the Eyak, Alutiiq, Ahtna and Tlingit cultures through food, art, regalia, language, song and dance.

Ilanka Cultural Center (Cordova) 907-424-7903 nveyak.com/ilanka-cultural-center

Head down to the capital city and become completely immersed in Alaska Native culture at the Sealaska Heritage Institute. The Institute is dedicated to the education and promotion of Southeast Alaska Native cultures, including sharing language, art and history.

Plan to visit between June 8-11, 2016, and experience Celebration, the biennial festival of Tsimshian, Tlingit and Haida cultures that features song and dance performances, lectures, food, an Alaska Native artist market and a juried art show and competition.

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Sealaska Heritage Institute (Juneau) 907-463-4844 sealaskaheritage.org

Visitor Center (Sitka) 907-747-0110 nps.gov/sitk/index.htm

Tlingit and Haida totem poles line Sitka National Historic Park's coastal trails, donated to Alaska Governor John Green Brady between 1903 and 1904 by many southeast Alaska Tlingit and Haida villages. They were displayed at the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis, Mo., and traveled to the Lewis and Clark Centennial Exposition in Portland, Ore., before returning home to the shores of Sitka in 1906. There they stand. Years of weather and wear have necessitated recarving and reconstruction.

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eachcombing is meditative walking—with eyes focused on the tideline, searching for unusual color and shape within tangles of sea wrack, bull kelp and driftwood—in the aural company of seabirds and shorebirds and ocean. On Kodiak’s black sand and gravel beaches, you may find yourself following the tracks of deer or fox or bear, or being followed by the dark eyes of a curious seal.

There are 50 beaches on Kodiak’s road system, dozens more at six villages around the island, and countless others accessible by

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PHOTO BY SAR AH LOE WEN

kayak, boat and floatplane. With more than 1,000 miles of coastline, and camping permitted on most beaches, Kodiak Island promises a lot of beachcombing. In comparison, Hawaii’s Big Island has less than 300 miles of shoreline.

Beachcombing here is a link to history—thousands of years ago the Alutiiq people made their homes along the shore. They walked beaches gathering food and prized specific types of driftwood that floated over from mainland Alaska for tools and ceremonial masks.

When Kodiak was a Russian colony in the early

1800s, beachcombers were often the first to share news of shipwrecks after discovering the flotsam of Russian supply ships washing up with the tide.

Several popular beaches shimmer with beach glass that’s a remnant of naval dumping during WWII. Today locals have created a Facebook page to share photos of beachcombing finds, inviting group input to identify objects and to comment on discoveries ranging from dog tags to hundred-year-old opium vials.

The allure of beachcombing is partly the mystery of an object’s journey across currents and distance

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find a sea star.

Hit the beach at tidepooling time and SARAH LOEWEN PHOTO BY

to the very beach you are walking on. The Kodiak Archipelago is in the path of the Alaska coastal current and the Alaska gyre, which brings glass fishing floats from Japan, cargo lost from shipping barges, and debris like that from the 2011 tsunami in Japan.

Recently, hundreds of fly swatters washed up on beaches around the island, and in the '90s, people found thousands of floating bath toys—both from shipping containers that went overboard during Pacific storms.

Cleaning up marine debris is one of the missions of Island Trails Network, a local nonprofit.

Through ITN, travelers can combine volunteering and vacation, traveling to remote beaches around the archipelago—some on which few people have ever set foot—to pick up fishing nets, lines and buoys and other trash that has floated up. There’s a minimal fee to participate, and ITN provides

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To raise awareness about marine litter, Kodiak High School art students, along with artist Bonnie Dillard, made large sculptures entirely from debris gathered on local beaches. There’s a salmon sculpture near the Kodiak boat harbor, as well as Ophelia the octopus, now on display at the Alaska SeaLife Center in Seward. This winter, Dillard led workshops to create hundreds of ornaments made from beach debris for the People’s Tree on the U.S. Capitol Building lawn in Washington, D.C. Beachcombing in Kodiak isn’t always about what floats up; sometimes it’s about what’s exposed by the falling tide. The rocky shores and wide tidal variation are great for tidepooling.

Children delight in discovering miniature ecosystems—bullheads, hermit crabs and decorator crabs, eels and starfish and gardens of sticky anemones.

A touch tank at NOAA’s Alaska Fisheries Science Center in Kodiak provides an option for rainy days, as well as staff who can answer questions about local species. The adjacent floor to ceiling saltwater aquarium houses halibut, cod, and other groundfish, as well as king and tanner crab.

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GETTING AROUND

For a beachcombing itinerary completely off the Alaska road system, visit the following towns accessible only by air or sea.

To reach Kodiak, visitors may opt for the Alaska Marine Highway System, driving vehicles onto the ferry for the approximately 10-hour trip from Homer.

Or there are seven flights a day from Anchorage to Kodiak. Flights are just under an hour long.

Fort Abercrombie State Historical Park, about four miles from town, has several beaches and miles of forested hiking trails. During summer months, park naturalists lead visitors on free tidepooling excursions.

There is a campsite, trout-stocked Lake Gertrude and a military history museum housed in a large WWII bunker.

Fossil Beach is at the end of the road, past Pasagshak River, the Pacific Spaceport Complex, herds of bison, and Surfers’ Beach. Waves are continually pulling small boulders and fossilized shells from the cliff face at Fossil Beach. It’s a short climb to a WWII bunker on the bluff.

Continue the beachcombing tour by working your way south along the Alaska coast.

Yakutat is a stop on the Alaska Airlines “Milk Run”—a flight route linking remote towns in Southeast Alaska to Anchorage and Seattle. Travelers can also reach Yakutat by ferry. Once there, charter a small aircraft or fishing boat to reach expansive beaches you’ll have all to yourself.

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A young beachcomber checks out the bluffs above a Kodiak shoreline. | PHOTO BY SARAH LOEWEN

Schooner Beach, near the Malaspina Glacier in Yakutat Bay, is a black sand beach named for the Japanese schooner, Satsuma Maru, that wrecked there in 1907. Crewmembers spent nearly five months on that isolated shore before being rescued. The ship’s hull and masts remained intact for almost a century. Japanese glass fishing floats sometimes wash up here during winter storms.

The flight from Yakutat to Alaska’s capital city of Juneau is less than an hour. A short drive will take you from Juneau’s busy downtown to quiet beaches.

Eagle Beach lies north of Juneau on the Glacier Highway, with views of the Chilkat Mountains across Lynn Canal.

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spot for kite flying and beachcombing along the sandbars and mudflats of Eagle River.

There are also forest campsites and several rental cabins.

Further out the road is Sunshine Cove, in the Auke Bay Recreation Area, about 30 miles north of Juneau. This gravel beach is a popular picnic site, with a small island frequented by scuba divers and kayakers.

Finish your trip at Wrangell, an island within the Tongass National Forest.

Experience Alaska’s Inside Passage during the 11-hour ferry ride from Juneau. Jet service is also available from Seattle, Juneau and Anchorage.

Petroglyph Beach State Historic Park, a mile from the Wrangell ferry terminal, contains petroglyphs thought to be at least 8,000 years old. There’s a boardwalk to the viewing deck, with replicas of designs like whales and salmon to make your own rubbings. Beach access is from the viewing platform to reach the 40 petroglyphs carved into rocks near the high tide line.

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lamping—or “glamourous camping”— marries wilderness escapism with the the luxury of modern toilets and sturdy walls. In Alaska that means your scenic vistas aren’t sullied by sad, deflating air mattresses, musty sleeping bags or tents that are harder to assemble than Ikea furniture.

So, if your group is a mixed bag of those who delight in the wonders of nature and those who balk at the idea of roughing it, glamping may be the most egalitarian route.

S TAY I N A Y U R T Scattered throughout Kachemak Bay State Park, just a short boat ride from Homer, are a handful of yurts for rent. These homes away from home vary from simple and secluded—like the Kayak Beach and Haystack Beach yurt rentals with just a central wood stove, basic furniture, a handful of cots and views of the snowy mountains or sparkling bay—to swanky, like The Roundhouse, which boasts French doors, a modern kitchen and bathroom, a skylight for stargazing above the queen bed and wireless Internet. You’ll be fairly far-removed from other campers, so becoming one with nature will be a breeze.

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Located in the heart of the Denali Canyon, McKinley Chalet Resort and Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge feature modern amenities, comfortable accommodations and the area’s best dining options. Situated on the banks of the Nenana River, just one mile from the park entrance with free shuttle service to the visitors center and an array of excursions departing from each hotel.

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Snagging some horizontal real estate in a vertical space, this treehouse isn’t just for kids. A regular stairway leads up to the artsy living space with a cozy fireplace and twinkle lights.

To reach the sleeping loft with a queen bed, keep climbing, this time up the captain’s ladder. You’ll be rewarded for your climb (and your daring!) with spectacular views of the surrounding nature.

Perched on stilts above the crystalline blue waters of Humpy Cove on a private island in Resurrection Bay, Orca Island is home to more yurt accommodations.

Watch wildlife from your private wooden decks or snag a paddleboard or kayak to get a closer look at the seals, whales and salmon that lurk beneath the water. Each yurt comes equipped with a full kitchen, private shower and queen bed.

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T U C K E D AWAY I N A CABIN Like summer camp but better, guests at Camp Denali can get down with nature in rustic hand-hewn log cabins with locally made quilts, wood stoves and propane lights, all in the shadow of Denali. You won’t be making macaroni necklaces or hokey kaleidoscopes here, though. Activities range from exploring remote alpine valleys and tundra-covered ridges with a naturalist guide to specialemphasis courses on botany, wildlife and Alaska history.

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laska is a land of contradictions. In many places, it’s still original and untouched. In others, it’s dynamic and wild, adapting as outside elements force the landscape to change.

It’s an appropriate metaphor for Alaska’s food scene, a mix of consistent standbys and new up-and-comers.

Locals tease that Alaska is about three years behind any fashion trend, food included. Cupcakes finally became a thing just a few years ago with a few local shops dedicated to the dessert. Food trucks of every size and shape have proliferated in recent years in urban hubs like Anchorage and Fairbanks. Anchorage’s first Parisian macaron shop is set to open in early 2016. The state’s first Krispy Kreme doughnut shop is on its way and Alaskans couldn’t be more excited.

So while some of Alaska is settling in to old trends, there are others that are bucking it altogether. Some are sticking to the classics done right, while are others are looking outside the definition of what it means to serve “Alaska cuisine.”

The best way to figure that out is by seeing what different restaurants across the state have to offer.

HIT THE ROAD You’ll likely start in Anchorage, Alaska’s largest city and with thousands of restaurants, the hub of all things food. You can opt for Alaskana fare at smart restaurants that have been classically preparing things right, like downtown’s Italianinspired, seafood-centric Orso. Or you can eat like a true local and pick a special off the Moose’s Tooth Pub and Pizzeria menu, where their pies are considered some of the country’s best, and for good reason. They’ve thrown away any idea of what you think a proper pizza topping should be and replaced it with what you should be eating— blackened chicken, tangy apricot sauce, whole cloves of slow-roasted garlic. You’ll wait two hours for a table at the height of the season, but you won’t regret it.

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The contradictions extend beyond Alaska’s largest city. Nearly everywhere you stop you’ll find a mix of classic, simple fare with a twist or inimitable places doing things right.

No matter where you land on the food loving spectrum—an adventurous eater or the type who prefers consistency—you'll find something to enjoy.

That’s because Alaska is about survival.

Everything is harder to get, harder to make, often more expensive, and it takes a little more work just to exist. So Alaskans have incorporated that into how they make food.

They do it right because there’s no leniency if you do it wrong. Do it wrong and you aren’t going to be around very long. It’s what makes places off the beaten path—like Talkeetna and Palmer—surprise spots full of creative food.

The communities themselves might not look like much. And even the restaurants might, at first glance, make you wonder if you’ll ever find anything worthwhile inside. But you will.

Alaska is nothing if not full of surprises.

Kinley's mushroom tart appetizer. | PHOTO BY SUZANNA CALDWELL / ADN

QUINTESSENTIAL ALASKA CLASSICS

FA R M-TO -TA BLE

Kinley’s doesn’t get the same kind of hype as other Anchorage institutions. Sure, it’s younger and perhaps less showy than other high-end dining options in Anchorage, but don’t let that keep you away. This midtown establishment (located across the street from Moose’s Tooth) is more than just the place to go if you aren’t willing to wait hours for pizza. It’s a lot quieter, but the food is just as exciting. Kinley’s represents quintessential Alaska classics with exotic twists: think Kodiak scallops with lemongrass-ginger reductions or a double cut pork chop with a curried mango sauce. Each dish is served with a flourish that matches the care taken to make it delicious.

Turkey Red gets its name from the first hard winter wheat grain that was successfully farmed in the U.S. Alaska isn’t known for its wheat, but the restaurant celebrates the fortitude of farmers who came before them with an emphasis on the fresh ingredients Alaska can produce. It’s appropriate, given its location in the heart of Alaska’s farm country. While the menu isn’t solely local, it’s inspired by the possibilities of the farmland that surrounds it. Grilled polenta with housemade mozzarella. A hearty lentil burger with grilled zucchini and jalapeño feta cheese spread that doesn’t make you miss the meat. These might not be Matanuska Valley grown, but they sure are inspirational.

Kinley's Restaurant and Bar (Anchorage) 907-644-8953 kinleysrestaurant.com

Turkey Red (Palmer) 907-746-5544 turkeyredak.com

Turkey Red's hummus platter. |

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PHOTO BY SUZANNA CALD

WELL / ADN

A “razberry walnut” sourdough hotcake with chocolate chips at Talkeetna Roadhouse.

THE ART OF GREAT FOOD PHOTOS BY SUZANNA CALDWELL / ADN

IN THE ANCHORAGE MUSEUM

www.muse.anchoragemuseum.org www.muse.anchoragemuseum.org

RUSTIC CUISINE If you’re going on a road trip, get ready to feel transported to Alaska’s roaring ’20s at the Talkeetna Roadhouse. With the rustic aesthetic, it’s hard not to think of the miners and trappers who stayed at this Talkeetna institution over the last hundred years. In 2016, you don’t have to stay, but you do need to do breakfast. Take your pick from an array of cinnamon buns (raspberry with cream cheese frosting shouldn’t be missed), hearty breakfasts (with vegan and glutenfree options) and hot cakes made with a famous 100-year-old sourdough starter that even in the “half” size overflows its platter. A rotating daily hot cake special means “razberry walnut” on Sundays and add chocolate chips. It’s doubtful they served this at the turn of the century, but be glad they do now.

Talkeetna Roadhouse 907-733-1351 talkeetnaroadhouse.com

FLIGHT TOURS McKinley Glacier Landings Glacier Dog Sledding Denali Day Hikes Flightsee Denali

800-764-2291

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Cookies on display at Flying Squi

rrel Cafe. | PHOTOS BY SUZANNA CALD

WELL / ADN

L O C A L LY

S O U R C E D

A casual lunch spot and bakery, the Flying Squirrel asks that customers appreciate the food as much as they do. While there are few things to expect—a panini of the day, soup, quiche—there’s something new each day since Flying Squirrel doesn’t have a strict menu, but instead relies on local food sourcing as much as possible. But expect something exciting every time. Try the “rhubarbale,” tangy-sweet rhubarb syrup mixed with sparkling water that tastes like liquid summer, no matter what time of year you visit.

Or some of the baked goods, like olive oil baguettes, a daily cheese bread or some of their half-dozen different cookie varieties. Maybe not totally local, but totally delicious.

Flying Squirrel Bakery Cafe 907-733-NUTS flyingsquirrelcafe.com

M cK inley Flights and glacierLlANDINGS andings DENALI FLIGHTS AND GLACIER

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We are within walking distance of all the tour operators, railroad and airport. Only a stroll away from the sandy banks of the Susitna River with beautiful views of Denali and the Alaska Range.

The Glacier Landing Company R

Talkeetna Air Taxi Rated #1 on Trip Advisor

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(907) 733-2218 www.talkeetnaair.com

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A beautiful dinner spr

PHOTO COURTE SY

A L A S K A' S

T H A I

F O O D

ead at Lemongrass.

LEMONGR ASSGR ASS

.COM

C A P I TA L

Fairbanks is called the Golden Heart city, a place known for its warm, generous people and seemingly endless summer sunlight. But locals know that it could easily be renamed the Thai food capital of Alaska and fit just as well. With over a dozen restaurants— including multiple Thai drive-thru huts—in Alaska’s second largest city, all the Thai restaurants have adapted to the tastes of the market, which are discerning. But two stand out—downtown’s Thai House and Chena Pump’s Lemongrass. Each serve up well executed Thai classics, but with twists all their own. Thai House is sheer classic: Think spicy-sweet panang curry, perfect fresh rolls and gra-bow—grilled chicken served with basil, peppers and the best garlic sauce you’ve ever had. Order it “Thai hot” and embrace the burn. Lemongrass goes for standards, too, but adds a little more flair. The classic pad Thai has a smoky depth you won’t find elsewhere. Or if it’s classic Fairbanks cold, consider the rich pumpkin and mushroom curry, often served with a coconut cream swirl shaped like a heart. Feel the love.

Thai House 907-452-6123 | thaihousefairbanks.com Lemongrass Thai Cuisine 907-456-2200 | lemongrassalaska.com

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laska is arguably the place to be a sportsman. How can you beat having a plethora of outdoorsy leisure activities— many of which are unique to the area—in what many consider to be America’s last unspoiled wilderness? It also helps that all of these activities pair well with smoked salmon jerky and craft beer—two things you’ll easily find when you’re stocking up for your adventure.

PHOTO COU RTE S Y OF THE E AG LE RIVE

R NAT

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C AT C H S A L M O N O N TH E K E NA I The Kenai is Mecca for salmon devotees. It’s home to silvers, pink, reds and kings—some of which have been known to top out at nearly 100 pounds—from May through October, but in mid-July the red runs peak at over 40,000 fish per day, making it any angler's dream.

While walking and wading trips are fun, drift boating is a solid way to treat yourself.

You are on vacation, after all.

REEL IN HALIBUT Homer takes halibut seriously. For a town of just 5,000 people, there are a surprising number of halibut charter operations.

Or maybe not so surprising when you see the photos of the gargantuan catch of the day—who wouldn’t want in on that? Most outlets offer full- or half-day options beginning in April and running through September.

Big Halibut (a company that calls itself the “o’fish’ial” charter of Alaska) and Homer Ocean Charters are a couple of the many options.

GET OUT I N TH E WOODS Nestled within Chugach State Park, 40 miles from Anchorage and 12 miles from Eagle River, the log cabinstyle nature center sits amidst glacier-carved mountains.

While there is an abundance of educational programming, the real draw is the myriad of trails starting just behind the center. The trails range from ¾-mile strolls to 12-mile treks across rich habitats with stunning vistas.

Eagle River Nature Center 907-694-2108 ernc.org

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THE SPORTSMAN

BASEBALL AND BEER 2016 Sandhill Crane Festival

August 26th-28th

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THE FOOD. THE VIEW. THE MOMENT.

What says “leisure” more than cracking a cold one, enjoying a hotdog (or reindeer dog) and watching America’s favorite pastime? The Alaska Baseball League is an amateur collegiate summer league, established before Alaska achieved statehood. If you’re around, be sure to check out the annual Midnight Sun Game in Fairbanks, played on summer solstice each year in middle-of-the-night daylight, no artificial light needed.

Anchorage Bucs 907-561-2827 anchoragebucs.com Anchorage Glacier Pilots 907-274-3627 glacierpilots.com Alaska Gold Panners of Fairbanks 907-451-0095 goldpanners.com Peninsula Oilers 907-283-7133 oilersbaseball.com Chugiak-Eagle River Chinooks cerchinooks.com Mat-su Miners 907-745-6401 matsuminers.org Valley's Dalton

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AD

www.muse.anchoragemuseum.org INSIDE THE ALASKA AIRLINES CENTER

One of the Eagle River Nature Center’s yurts. | PHOTO BY MATT QUAID / GREAT NORTHERN IMAGES

CAMP OFF THE GR ID If you’re looking to get off the grid or do some old school backpacking, the Rapids Camp Yurts in Eagle River will do the trick. There’s no electricity, no wifi, no running tap water, no plumbing or cooking stoves. And the two-mile hike in is known for its splendid scenery and access to other trails that let you become one with nature.

Rapids Camp Yurt Public Use Cabin (Eagle River) ernc.org/rapid-camp-yurt.html

Just an hour away from everyday

© Ralph Kristopher

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alyeskaresort.com 33

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he flight from Anchorage is short—no more than an hour and a half—but when you step off the plane in Kotzebue, it’s like you’re stepping into another world.

Welcome to Alaska’s Arctic, a land of extremes.

In the middle of winter, the moon hangs in the sky until well past 9 a.m. At the height of the summer, midnight is as bright as high noon.

Everything is different here, from the landscape to the lifestyle to the way the sun arches across the sky. It’s a place for nature lovers, cultural explorers, photographers, outdoor enthusiasts and those searching for adventure off the beaten path.

Travel with an open mind and curious eyes, and your time up north will be unforgettable.

 MajorMarine.com

Discover Alaska’s Age of Dinosaurs!

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THE ARCTIC EXPLORER

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NANA MANAG EMENT SERVICES

View of Kotzebue Sound.

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UlU FacTory Summer hours: 7 days a week • 8-5 Winter hours: M-F 9-6 • Sat 10-6 211 W. Ship Creek Ave. Anchorage, Alaska 99501 Local: (907) 276-3119 In-state: 1-800-478-3119 Out-of-state: 1-800-488-5592

Ride FREE on Lolley the Trolley!

(Memorial Day to Labor Day)

• Browse our ulu and bowl sets, sizes and handle varieties • See the great collection of Alaska made gifts • View our unique “museum” of ancient ulus and artifacts • Receive a personal ulu demonstration • Take an individual factory tour • Walk or ski the nearby Coastal Trail alongside Ship Creek • Visit the Salmon Viewing Station (during season)

www.theULUfactory.com

About 30 miles above the Arctic Circle, Kotzebue is an ideal place to begin your adventure. Its 3,200 residents make it the largest community in the Northwest Arctic Borough, but it still takes only a few minutes to walk from the airport to any accommodations in town.

The views from the Nullaġvik Hotel stretch for miles. You can watch four-wheelers race down Shore Avenue, see the sun set over Kotzebue Sound and spot distant mountains as they peek through the clouds on the other side of the water.

Find the third-floor observation room to learn more about Sisualik, the former Inuit village across the sound. Today, it’s a popular site for summer subsistence camps.

Kotzebue may be small, but there are plenty of opportunities to explore.

Visit the Sulianich Art Center to browse the work of local artists from around the region. At Rotman Store, you’ll find fur pelts, hats and mittens hanging alongside handsewn parkas and other goods. Walk through the grocery aisles to begin to understand why life in the Arctic is so expensive: Essentials arrive by air or barge, so expect to pay two or three times what you would pay in Anchorage.

One example—local eateries. Here, a breakfast platter with pancakes, scrambled eggs, bacon, hash browns and toast goes for upwards of $18;

a lunchtime salad will cost around $17. Expect to pay about $15 for a burger, or $9 for a cheese quesadilla.

The Nullaġvik Hotel itself features one of the nicest restaurants in town, and guests there can taste Inupiaq dishes like reindeer soup, reindeer goulash or reindeer with gravy—all served with pilot bread, an Arctic Alaska staple. Refuel, then make plans to get out of town.

Kotzebue is home to several flightseeing companies and adventure outfitters. The Gates of the Arctic National Park, Kobuk Valley National Park and Preserve, Krusenstern National Monument, Bering Land Bridge and Selawik National Wildlife Refuge are all within a few hours’ flight, and travelers have access to some of the most remote, breathtaking views in the country. Bring your camera and watch for dall sheep, bears, wolves, moose and musk ox. Between the end of June and the beginning of July, visitors can see the gathering of the Western Arctic caribou herd, which numbers more than 300,000 animals strong. There are also opportunities for rafting, bird-watching and hiking.

Alaska’s northwest coast is huge and thrilling, but it’s just one part of the Arctic. In order to experience the full scope of this wild, peculiar land, head for the North Slope.

Nullaġvik Hotel 907-442-3331 nullagvikhotel.com

Krusenstern National Monument nps.gov/cakr

Sulianich Art Center 907-442-2990 nwabor.org/sulianich.html

Bering Land Bridge National Preserve 907-443-2522 nps.gov/bela

Gates of the Arctic National Park 907-457-5752 nps.gov/gaar

PARK SERVICE

and the

37

Mondays June 6 - Aug 15 12-1pm • 4th & E St.

Music in the Park Wednesdays June 1 - Aug 17 12-1pm • 4th & E St.

THURSDAY NIGHT CONCERTS

Live after five

May 29 - July 31 5:30-7:30pm Town Square SATURDAY EVENTS

Petals ‘N Spokes

May 14 12-6pm • Town Square

Downtown Summer Solstice Festival

June 18 12-6pm 4th Ave. C - L St.

/AnchorageDowntownPartnership www.AnchorageDowntown.org

PHOTOS COURTESY OF NATIONAL

Aerial views of Noatak National Preserve Arctic National Park and Preserve.

Music for Little Ones

Daily updates FACEBOOK & TWITTER

Selawik National Wildlife Refuge selawik.fws.gov

Kobuk Valley National Park and Preserve 907-442-3890 nps.gov/kova

WEEKLY CONCERT SERIES

(907) 279-5650

@ANCdowntown

THE ARCTIC EXPLORER

When you’re done perusing the exhibits, the front desk clerk might suggest hiring a cab for an hour-long windshield tour around town. While individual cab rides might cost $5 or $6 each, for a flat fee of approximately $50, a knowledgeable local will chauffeur you around Barrow, out to the point and back again, regaling you with polar bear stories along the way.

The bears have been known to wander into town, you’ll learn, but you’ll have the best chance of seeing one around Point Barrow, the headland about nine miles north of town. Keep a lookout for Arctic fox and other wildlife on your drive out—you might just see a pair of glowing eyes staring back at you from the tundra.

In Barrow, the restaurant at the Top of the World Hotel is a good indicator of flight patterns at the local airport. The dining room begins to fill up about 20 minutes after incoming planes land, and you might recognize people from baggage claim or the seats behind you. Strike up a conversation, because around these parts, everyone has a story. You may meet a traveling

TOP OF TH E WOR L D Traveling this far off the road system takes at least several hours by plane, depending on the number of stopovers, but a trip to Barrow is worth it for the bragging rights alone: How many adventurers can say they’ve stepped foot in the northernmost community in the United States?

Or, more colloquially, visited the “top of the world.”

Visitors to Barrow can dip their toes in the Arctic Ocean, experience a full 24 hours of daylight (or darkness, depending on your schedule), see a traditional Inupiat whaling celebration and watch for polar bears out near Point Barrow, where the giant, bloody bones of slain whales are deposited after a successful hunt.

The bones stay there for years. You can spot them all along the beach, bleached white by the elements, the perfect Arctic photo op.

There’s history in those bones. To understand it, visit the Inupiat Heritage Center—the place to learn about the people who’ve lived on the North Slope for generations. Knowledge about their traditions and way of life is invaluable to the serious Arctic explorer.

An Arctic resident in Kaktovik.

Experience and photograph this Ice Age survivor up-close with a guided tour of our unique working farm

Musk Ox Farm

THE

Open Mother’s Day to Mid-September • Tours Daily 10-6

mile 50.1 glenn hwy • 12850 E. archie rd • palmer • ak MILE 50.1 GLENN HWY • 12850 E. ARCHIE RD • PALMER • AK www.muskoxfarm.org 907-745-4151 tours gifts museum

www.muskoxfarm.org

907.745.4151

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38

basketball coach, a local whaling captain or an oilfield worker from Kaktovik, a tiny community on Barter Island at the northern edge of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

That’s where the bears are.

The oilfield worker might pull out his cell phone and show you pictures of the dozen or so polar bears that stormed the beach just a few weeks ago, drawing busloads of tourists armed with tripods and telephoto lenses. The bears come in the late spring and early fall, and most people who travel north to see them do so in September.

A guided tour out of Kaktovik might be your golden ticket for spotting a polar bear. The town of 250 people is also home to several tour companies and two hotels, Marsh Creek Inn and Waldo Arms Hotel, but space is limited and it’s necessary to make plans far in advance. The flight to Barter Island alone can cost upwards of $1,000. Isn’t seeing a polar bear in the wild worth it?

Bears or no bears, a trip to the Alaska Arctic is the trip of a lifetime.

Between the frozen natural beauty and expansive wilderness, the unique culture and sense of community—there’s no place like it on earth.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF NATIONAL PARK

Iñupiat Heritage Center (Barrow) 907-852-0422 nps.gov/inup

Marsh Creek Inn (Kaktovik) 907-640-5500 marshcreekinn.net

Top of the World Hotel (Barrow) 907-852-3900 tundratoursinc.com

Waldo Arms Hotel (Kaktovik) 907-640-6513 waldoarmshotel.com

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ith more than 6,500 miles of coastline, millions of acres of wilderness and plentiful wildlife, Alaska is ripe for adventure—a true thrill-seekers’ paradise. Whether you walk with the bears at Lake Clark, feel a glacier under your boots, sail through a forest on a zipline or climb up a remote hillside in search of the perfect view, this trip will be unforgettable.

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GL ACI E R TRE K ZIPLINE Wildlife and glacier cruises aren’t the only activities in Seward.

For those looking for a different view, a couple of local companies offer zipline tours, carrying adventurers through the trees to explore the area’s rich flora and natural history. Stoney Creek Canopy Adventures takes guests on a three-hour traverse over creeks, ponds, woodlands and a massive boulder left behind by an ancient glacier. The zips are interspersed by platforms built into towering Sitka spruce and mountain hemlock, so visitors can enjoy an elevated view of the surrounding valley.

Travel time (from Anchorage): Around two and a half hours by car, three hours by bus or four hours by train.

Stoney Creek Canopy Adventures (Seward) 907-224-3662 stoneycreekca.com

Two hours northeast of Anchorage, the Matanuska Glacier makes for a perfect day trip. A number of outfits offer guided treks on the ice— check out Matanuska Glacier Adventure Tours, Nova Glacier Guides or Mica Guides. They’ll provide the gear; you bring the camera and a sturdy pair of hiking boots. If you’re an experienced trekker, you can purchase an access pass and treat yourself to an unguided glacier tour. Don’t forget to pack a lunch, or at least a snack, because there’s a scenic picnic area near the toe of the glacier.

Travel time: About two hours’ drive from Anchorage.

Matanuska Glacier Adventures (Sutton) 907-745-2534 matanuskaglacier.biz Nova Glacier Guides (Chickaloon) 800.746.5753 alaskaglacierguides.com Mica Guides (Sutton) 907-351-7587 micaguides.com

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HIT THE SURF Imagine catching a late-summer swell against the breathtaking backdrop of the St. Elias Mountains: That’s what happens in Yakutat, where Alaskans go to surf. Try Point Carew, Cannon Beach, Snappers and Boilers, to name a few. Keep an eye out for wildlife, because it’s not uncommon for surfers to ride the waves alongside seals, sea lions and whales, and plan on spending a few days, because waves and weather are always unpredictable.

Travelers can pitch a tent at a U.S. Forest Service campsite, or opt for one of the local lodges.

Visit Icy Waves Surf Shop before you go—this family-owned business has been outfitting local wave hunters since 1999.

Travel time: Around two and a half hours by air from Anchorage.

Icy Waves Surf Shop (Yakutat) 907-784-3226 icywaves.com

THE THRILL SEEKER

VICE

E X P L O R E A N AT I O N A L PA R K

of Little Lake Clark in search of salmon. | PHOTO COURT

ES Y OF W . HILL / N

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At the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Kennicott Glacier Lodge is a jumping off point for countless adventures in the surrounding wilderness. The journey to the lodge is an adventure of its own—a nearly eight-hour road trip from Anchorage, or a two-hour flight. After settling in, visitors are faced with another choice. Will you explore the abandoned copper mining town of Kennicott? Will you rent a mountain bike and take off down the surrounding trails and dirt roads? Or will you go glacier trekking, rafting, hiking or flightseeing? There are so many options, it’s worth spending a few days here to get the most out of your trip.

Kennicott Glacier Lodge (McCarthy) 907-258-2350 kennicottlodge.com

A

On the west side of Cook Inlet, Lake Clark National Park and Preserve offers world-class bear viewing. Head for Chinitna Bay or Silver Salmon Creek in July or August for your best bruin-spotting odds, according to the National Park Service. Travelers have several options: Take a day trip out of Anchorage with a flightseeing company like Rust’s Flying Service or Regal Air, or opt for a longer experience and stay the night at one of the several lodges in the area. Either way, plan on buying a plane ticket—it’s the only way to access this remote area of Southcentral Alaska.

Travel time: From Anchorage, less than an hour by air.

Rust's Flying Service (Anchorage) 800-544-2299 flyrusts.com Regal Air (Anchorage) 907-243-8535 regal-air.com

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Travel time: Approximately eight hours by road from Anchorage, or two hours by air.

VIEW BEARS IN THE WILD

TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE!

Come meet the locals! Bears, Bison, Moose, Caribou, Musk Ox, and others that call the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center home.

Wildlife viewing, photography, and educational opportunities abound!

Mile 79, Seward Highway | Portage, AK 99587 | 907.783.2025 | www.alaskawildlife.org

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TA K E A H I K E Easily accessible from South Anchorage, Flattop might just be the most popular hike in town.

In the summer, the hillside is teeming with locals and visitors alike, so making the climb on a weekday or in the morning might help your chances of finding a parking spot at the Glenn Alps trailhead. The hike begins with a scramble, then levels out around Blueberry Hill before the last steep, rocky ascent to the top. While the climb can be moderately difficult, depending on your level of fitness, it’s doable for all ages. Expect to spend a few hours on the mountain, and don’t forget to turn around every now and then and enjoy the views while you climb—on a clear day, you can see Denali to the north.

Travel time: 20 minutes’ drive from downtown Anchorage.

Explore

America’s Largest National Park

Enjoy gracious hospitality, fine dining, and spectacular scenery in the center of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.

Hike on a glacier, discover historic Kennicott, and go flightseeing.

KennicottLodge.com

800-582-5128 43

info@KennicottLodge.com

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he year was 1921. Anchorage was still a young frontier town of approximately 2,000 people, and the very first police chief had just been shot to death with his own gun.

A night watchman found Jack Sturgus lying in the snow in an alley off Fourth Avenue. Rumors flew, but his

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murder was never solved. And while it went on to become one of the most infamous cold cases in Anchorage, the chief’s memory is still very much alive—just ask a ghost hunter. According to local lore, Sturgus’s spirit still lingers in the alley where he died, making it a popular destination for those hoping for a brush with the paranormal.

where Anchorage's Rick Goodfellow poses in the alley police chief was murdered in 1921.

PHOTO BY ERIK HILL / ADN

G H O S T S O F A N C H O R A G E As it turns out, the Last Frontier is crawling with ghost stories, many of which take place in Alaska’s largest city.

The deeper you dig, the more specters you’ll find.

Few know this better than Rick Goodfellow, the dapper guide who introduces visitors to some of Anchorage’s most iconic haunts. For six nights a week every summer, Goodfellow dons a suit and top hat

and waits at the corner of Fourth Avenue and L Street, the departure point for his hugely popular Ghost Tours of Anchorage ($15). The walking tour takes up to two hours, but you don’t need to go far to immerse yourself in the city’s ghostly past.

Start at Snow City Cafe. As legend has it, the eastern end of the bustling downtown eatery is home to the spirit of Muriel Pfeil, a wellknown businesswoman killed by a car bomb in 1976. Pfeil’s company, Professional Travel, once

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Rick Goodfellow leads Ghost Tours of Anchorage outside the Fourth Avenue Theatre.

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occupied an office space where the cafe now stands today.

A block down Fourth Avenue, Anchorage’s Hotel Captain Cook is said to host a ghost of its own—a mysterious spirit that inhabits a stall in the basementlevel ladies’ room. Because the wraith becomes agitated when disturbed, the hotel keeps her stall closed to protect the peace of guests and ghosts alike (or so the story goes).

Keep walking a few blocks further east and you’ll find yet another haunted piece of history. Before it closed its doors, patrons of the Fourth Avenue Theatre occasionally reported seeing an apparition in the mirrors near the restrooms. Others tell tales of a ghostly child who lives under the stage. Are the stories true? Unless the theatre reopens, visitors may never know.

Goodfellow’s Anchorage ghost tour ends a block away, by Police Chief Sturgus’s alley. Today, it runs between a gift shop, several tour companies and the Historic Anchorage Hotel. His spirit is not alone.

Paranormal investigators claim the hotel is haunted by around three dozen others—a little boy and girl who passed away at an Anchorage hospital long ago, a jilted bride, a prominent socialite. The encounters, recorded in a hotel logbook, range from flickering lights and inexplicable sounds to shadowy figures and the time a guest spotted a small, ghostly child smiling from within a closet.

“If you’re really a serious ghost hunter, I think the Historic Anchorage Hotel is indispensable,” Goodfellow said. “It’s part of their reputation.”

The legends aren’t confined to Anchorage.

Ghost Tours of Anchorage 907-27-GHOST ghosttoursofanchorage.com

H A U N T E D S A L O O N A N D H O T E L Join one of the fun-loving mad ams of the Red Onion Saloo n on a guided wa lking tour.

Travel southeast to Skagway, tucked into the Panhandle at the head of Taiya Inlet, to discover the ghosts of Alaska’s gold rush.

The Red Onion Saloon and the Golden North Hotel are two of the town’s most recognizable historic haunts. While the Golden North closed its doors long ago, the Red Onion is still open for business—a former bar and brothel that now runs as a restaurant and museum.

Built in 1897, the saloon is home to plenty of ghost stories. There’s the legend of Lydia, a former madam, whose spirit has been known to water the house plants and push male visitors and employees. Some visitors report seeing mysterious reflections in mirrors, glowing orbs and shadows in photographs. Others tell stories about disappearing drinks at the bar, inexplicable knocks on doors and the lingering smell of perfume on the saloon’s second floor.

The Golden North, though no longer in operation, is rich with tales of the paranormal. One of the rooms is said to be home to the spirit of a bereaved bride, who became distressed if ever the room was occupied by a happy, in-love, living woman. Goodfellow, the Anchorage ghost guide, says he’s spoken with those who’ve had their legs mysteriously bruised after a stay at the Skagway hotel. “(The spirit) gets very upset,” he said. “Now, there are two spins on it: One, she’s trying to warn the girl that all men will break your heart, or she’s just plain jealous. Take your pick.”

PHOTO BY RE

Red Onion Saloon 907-983-2222 redonion1898.com

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JOY ARMAME

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The mine was abandoned in 1938 but many of the historic buildings still stand as they were on tha t last day.

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An eight-hour drive northeast of Anchorage sits the town of McCarthy and the abandoned coppermining community of Kennicott. First explored by prospectors in the summer of 1900, Kennicott was once home to some 600 miners, according to the National Park Service. By the time the mine closed in 1938, workers had dug around $200 million worth of ore from the surrounding mountains.

Then the mining came to an end. Kennicott became a ghost town, seemingly overnight.

Today, many of the buildings are still standing.

Collapsing bunkhouses, weather-worn outbuildings, sun-bleached shops and other structures call to mind the spirits of times past. Some visitors to the region have told tales of disembodied voices and disappearing gravestones. Even if your trip to Kennicott doesn’t include a brush with the paranormal, it’s hard to avoid the phantoms of the town that used to be.

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PHOTOS BY ERIK HILL / ADN

The Buckner Building in Whittier.

A B A N D O N E D B U I L D I N G Visit Whittier, a quick hour’s drive south of Anchorage, and you’ll see the long-abandoned Buckner Building, haunted by memories and history.

Large enough to hold 1,000 souls and outfitted with a movie theater, a jail, a bowling alley and tunnels leading to other parts of town, the towering structure was built during the Cold War. Today, it’s dark and damp and filled with things that go bump in the night.

While the signs plastering the outside of the building prohibit trespassing, visitors have only to peer through the cavernous windows to feel the ghosts.

An interior view of the theater.

The Buckner Building remains closed to tourists, so stay on the right side of the law and don't let the ghosts lure you inside.

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ome to a multitude of unique creatures, Alaska's big backyard includes moose, caribou, eagles, porcupines, snowy owls, sea otters, King crab, polar bears and many more. Learn about species conservation, rehabilitation and Alaska’s impressive fauna while spending some quality time with these animals and their friends. Visit with mountain goats and grizzlies, feed reindeer and moose, learn about the unique fur of the musk ox and watch harbor seals dart through the water as you make your way from the Mat-Su to the port town of Seward. From mountain tops to coastlines and deep Alaska waters, wildlife abounds.

SPOT A WHALE S E A C R E AT U R E E NCOUNTE RS Learn about the wide variety of Alaska marine life without having to dip a toe in the cold Alaska water. At the Alaska SeaLife Center in the scenic port town of Seward, visitors can observe the Center’s efforts to rehabilitate injured or abandoned sea creatures; spend some time with a wide variety of seabirds as you feed them upstairs and downstairs; watch them dive 21 feet into the deepest seabird pool in the U.S.; follow the journey of the Pacific salmon; and have a close encounter with a variety of sea life in the Discovery Pool all in one adventure-filled stop.

Alaska SeaLife Center (Seward) 907-224-7908 | alaskasealife.org

It can feel like Alaska is a land of excess: "See giant bears!"

"Photograph yourself with the tallest mountains!" But it's not bragging if it's true, right? When it comes to spotting the world's largest marine mammals, Alaska should definitely be on your bucket list. If you know where to go—Seward is one of the best launch points for a whale-watching excursion— you can spot orcas, humpbacks, gray whales, minke whales and fin whales. If you drive from Anchorage to your boat launch in Seward you'll wind your way down Turnagain Arm. Have your co-pilot keep eyes on the water and you just might spot a beluga whale.

Travel time: Anchorage to Seward (by car) takes about two and a half hours. Three hours if you pull over for photo ops.

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200 ACRE S OF A L ASK A WILDIFE Visit safely with some of Alaska’s best known wildlife at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center.

Observe moose, bears, wood bison, elk, musk ox and more and learn about their habitat and life cycles in Alaska. The AWCC is dedicated to the conservation and care of Alaska’s wildlife, including working to re-introduce threatened species back into the state and restore parts of the ecosystem that have been lost over time. Take a tour, feed moose and musk ox calves, spend some time with Sven the reindeer and Snickers the porcupine or catch a brown bear feeding among the 200 acres the rescued, abandoned and injured animals call home.

Alaska Wildilife Conservation Center (Portage) 907-783-2025 alaskawildlife.org

FE NCE D -I N FOR E ST

PET A REINDEER

MEET A MUSK OX

Featuring animals found in Alaska and Arctic climates, the Alaska Zoo is like no other zoo in the country. Stroll through the 20 acres of boreal forest in south Anchorage and you'll happen upon great Alaska animals including musk ox, moose, grizzly, black and polar bears, otters, seals, snowy owls, red foxes, lynx, mountain goats and many more.

Make friends with a reindeer or two at the Reindeer Farm in beautiful Palmer. Tour the working farm and have the chance to feed, pet and photograph reindeer, elk and rabbits, or take a horseback trail ride. Make a day of it and bring a sack lunch for a picturesque picnic—but be sure to dress for the weather and farm life!

Get up close and personal with these Ice Age mammals and learn about their fascinating history as a species at the Palmer Musk Ox Farm. Take a guided tour and discover the wonders of qiviut (kiv’-ee-ute), a fiber eight times warmer than wool and softer than cashmere, spun from the luscious fur of the animal's belly.

Reindeer Farm (Palmer) 907-745-4000 reindeerfarm.com

Musk Ox Farm (Palmer) 907-745-4151 muskoxfarm.org

Alaska Zoo (Anchorage) 907-346-2133 alaskazoo.org

A newborn reindeer walks the grounds of the Reindeer Farm. | PHOTO BY MARC LESTER / ADN

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(907) 262-9169 • www.mykels.com • (907) 262-4305 Mykel’s

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F YOU’RE A TRUE SNOW BUNNY, YOU WON’T WANT TO MISS OUT ON A QUINTESSENTIAL ALASKA ACTIVITY: DOG MUSHING. When Jerry Sousa comes to the dog yard, the excitement is palpable.

Some dogs pull on their leashes to get closer, some seek higher ground atop their houses for a better look, some wag their tails so fast that it drums out a muffled beat on the packed snow. All 60 call out their greeting—a mix of soprano-style yips and the baritone “aaarooof.”

They know the boss is here. The chief. The alpha. And they’re excited.

The arrival of Sousa means two things: another hearty meal of salmon and beef and a good, long run.

Sousa, a dog musher and Iditarod racer in Talkeetna, walks amongst his dogs, showering affection on each individually, trading ear scratches for sloppy licks. Eskimo, a handsome husky with a cream-colored face wreathed in a dark brown fur, jumps up and catches one of the many holes in Sousa’s coat, expelling more of the feathers. When Sousa kneels down and wraps her in a hug, she leans against him and rests her muzzle on his shoulder.

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Skiing at Alyeska.

PHOTO BY RALPH KRISTOPHER / COURTESY OF ALYESKA RESORT AND THE HOTEL ALYESKA

“Good girl,” he says as he ruffles her face with mittens the size of boxing gloves. He has no problem admitting that she’s his favorite.

As he walks through the yard, he points out the various dogs and shares stories about each of them. The big black one on the side is the sire to the pretty puppies out front, that one over there is a lead dog, to the left is a dog so strong he once broke the line in a single step and those three over there are Yoda, Chewy and Chewbacca—Sousa’s son, a big “Star Wars” fan, named them.

We wind our way back to the supply house and in an arctic version of playing dress-up, we don a pair of bibs, a coat that would make Santa look trim and boots so large they require shuffling, rather than walking. All the while Sadie, the shop cat, is looping figure-eights between us.

Back outside, 10 dogs are being hooked up to the rope, two-by-two. Charger and Sequoia, the lead dogs, were the first to be tied in and they’re anxious for the rest of the team to get here. By the time Horse and Toren get hooked into the last two spots, they’re raring to go, wriggling with excitement. They really want to go. Want to pull.

Want to feel the chill of the Alaska air as they surge through the woods and fields and over rivers and roads.

As I get zipped into the red canvas covering the cargo basket of the sled, Horse turns around, his long, salmon-colored tongue lolling out and gives a look as if to say, “Are you ready for this?” Or maybe he’s saying, “Wait, who are you?”

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Sousa steps onto the runners, releases the brake and before he can even say “go” the gangline snaps taut and dogs are off, tearing through skinny spruce trees on a well-worn trail. All of the excitement from a moment ago has been replaced with a single, concentrated thought: run.

As they zip down the trail, Sousa calls out “haw!” and “gee!” to steer the dogs to the left and right, respectively.

He doesn’t use the word “mush”—that’s a common misconception—and hesitates to use “whoa” to stop. He explains later that during his first Iditarod he fell asleep standing up on the runners as his team was coming down the Yukon River. When he woke, his team had stopped and all of the dogs had turned to look at him. They thought his snoring was a new command. Since then, he keeps his instructions simple.

As the team breaks through the tree line and into a open field, Sousa shifts his weight on the runners to adjust the speed. He knows Charger, the lead dog

on the left, won’t start trotting until they’re at nine miles an hour and Sequoia, the lead on the right, will follow at 10. He watches them to keep the pace even.

Soon it’s just the shhhhh of the runners sliding across the hard-packed snow, the view of Denali, washed in a pink light from the waning sun, and the steady trot of the dogs.

Sousa is quiet, too. Sure, there’s the occasional directional call, but he too is in the zone.

It’s racing season and Sousa’s mind is on his dogs.

How he’ll train them, what he’ll feed them and who will be in upcoming races. For him, it’s a full-time job.

But more than that, it’s his favorite activity.

“There isn’t anything like mushing,” Sousa said.

“The dogs are all pitter-pattering down the trail and they don’t want to stop; they want to keep going.

And you get to see that develop. That team effort, the work, all coming together. There’s no other feeling like it.”

Know before you go!

AlaskaNavigator.org 54

PHOTOS BY BAILEY BERG /

Sousa and his dogs mush across the ice.

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ADN

H IT THE SLOPE S Nestled at the base of the Chugach Mountains sits the hamlet of Girdwood. The ski town is a beacon, calling everyone from Carhartt-clad, slap-some-duct-tape-on-it Alaska ski bums to world-class skiers and snowboarders to come play in the 650+ inches of fresh powder Alyeska gets hit with every year.

The resort has six lifts, two magic carpets and a 60-person tram that ascends the sharp north face of the mountain for views of the ocean. Not to mention the myriad of beginner to expert runs on the 1,610 skiable acres. Or, if you’re really adventurous, there’s heli-skiing with Chugach Powder Guides. And when you’ve met your leg-day match, there are a smattering of restaurants and bars nearby where you can recover and rehydrate. Ski season is typically December April.

Getting there: Girdwood is situated roughly 40 miles south of Anchorage and the international airport there, so renting a car is a good bet.

Alyeska Resort (Girdwood) 800-880-3880 alyeskaresort.com

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GO DOG SLE DDI NG

WAT C H T H E A U R O R A

Tours begin at a hewn-log office in downtown Talkeetna.

From there it’s a ride (filled with stories of the history of Talkeetna and sled dog racing) to the dog lot, where you can meet the 60+ dogs currently training for the Iditarod.

After you’ve had your fill of playing with the pups, Jerry Sousa (a top 20 Iditarod finisher) will give a demonstration of harnessing and mushing prep. From there you can opt for a sled ride on some of Sundog’s own trails. Though the dog teams do the bulk of their training in the winter, summer visitors can also go mush with the team. The only difference? Rather than a sled with runners, the team pulls a larger, multi-person sled with wheels.

Located 60 miles from downtown Fairbanks—and away from all electric light pollution—is the Chena Hot Springs Resort, a charming property surrounded by rolling hills, log-cabin-style restaurants and bars, a few greenhouses and a palatial ice museum in the shape of a Quonset hut.

But the real draw are the hot springs—a much needed warm-up during cold Alaska winters—and the chance to see the stunning northern lights, or aurora borealis, displays. Visitors can soak in the hot springs while watching the the array of colors—reds, greens, blues and violets—dance across the northern skies. You can even request a special aurora wake-up call if you’re staying at the resort. Aurora season is typically September - April.

Getting there: There is a small airport in Talkeetna and hopper flights from Anchorage and Fairbanks; otherwise, you can rent a car from either the Anchorage or Fairbanks airport or take the train. It's a three-hour drive from Anchorage or six hours from Fairbanks.

Getting there: Chena Hot Springs is 60 miles from Fairbanks and the airport there, so renting a car is necessary.

Chena Hot Springs (Fairbanks) 907-451-8104 chenahotsprings.com

Sundog Kennel (Talkeetna) 907-733-3355 sundogkennel.com

Anchorage Market & Festival’s 25th Season 3rd & E Streets Downtown • May 7th to September 4th, 2016 Saturdays 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. • Sundays 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

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Alaska’s Largest Open-Air Market The Anchorage Market & Festival is a great place to bring family, friends, and visiting tourists.

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DOWNTOWN

(New American/Eclectic) 802-B Gambell St. 907-375-5500 downtowngrillak.com We are a New American style restaurant with a few eclectic/global twists such as our Alaskan Gumbo using fresh local seafood, our Smoked St. Louis Ribs and our Blue Wolf Burger with Blue Cheese & Crispy Onion Strings. So please come try our great food, because "You Know You Want to Try It!"

(Seafood) Corner of 5th Ave. & D St. 907-317-7553

(Globally inspired) 328 G St. 907-274-4022 sackscafe.com

Visit the best Crab Shack & Salmon Bake in town!

Locally owned and operated, we serve the finest local, wild caught Alaskan seafood. Allyou-can-eat crab, freshly prepared salmon, scallops, oysters, fish & chips, surf & turf. Casual atmosphere, patio seating, kid friendly.

ASK ABOUT CRABBY HOUR!

A downtown establishment and local favorite since 1983, Sacks is a warm, intimate restaurant featuring adventurous dishes and fresh Alaska seafood. Enjoy an awardwinning wine list and spectacular service. Open for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch.

B L D WB $$$

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(American) 625 C Street 907-929-9210 muse.anchoragemuseum.org Muse offers contemporary Alaska cuisine featuring fresh seafood and local produce. Located in the Anchorage Museum, the atmosphere is modern, contemporary and comfortable. Join us for lunch, happy hour or dinner and be sure to explore our vast wine collection—we’re sure you’ll be impressed.

The Ranch (American) 436 D St. 907-317-7553 America's #1 condiment is the inspiration for our restaurant. We've taken an innovative approach to our menu with homemade variations including chipotle, habañero, garlic, greek tzatziki, BBQ and more. Serving burgers, pot pies, meatloaf, steak and chicken, try our comfort food with a twist!

(American) 1034 W 4th Ave. 907-272-2489 snowcitycafe.com We're a popular downtown brunch spot where the staff is friendly and breakfast is served all day. Most everything we serve is made from scratch, and with plenty of love. Come check us out, and see why Anchorage locals have voted us “Best Breakfast” since 2003!

O L D K LN WB WA $$

(American/Seafood/Spanish) 115 E. Third Ave. 907-334-8410 slipperysalmonanchorage.com Start your day with our Crab Cakes Benedict or NY Steak and Eggs. For lunch and dinner, try our Chorizo Burgers, Homemade Chili and Smoked Salmon Naan Bread or Mediterranean Turkey Burger. Taco lovers can try our pork belly, cod and halibut appetizers.

Summer-season outdoor patio, plenty of parking.

OBLDK LN WA $$$ EAST

TM

(American) 3550 Providence Dr. 907-786-7835 varsitysportsgrillanchorage.com One of Anchorage’s newest midtown eateries, the Varsity features fresh food, craft beer and wine. This

B L K WB WA $$

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exciting and spirited grill overlooks the new arena of the Alaska Airlines Center.

Our heated patio can be enjoyed all summer long or dine inside for the games, live or on our wide-screens.

delightful appetizers, scrumptious salads, fresh seafood, meat and pasta specialties and delightful desserts.

and handcrafted cocktails, among other delights!

Open Mon.-Fri.,11 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Sat.-Sun., 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.

O L D WA $$$$

patio before you head south on the highway!

O B L D LN WA $$

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Xalos Mexican Grill (Mexican) 3048 Mountain View Dr. #140 907-277-1001 xalosmexicangrill.com At Xalos we serve a fusion of dishes from different regions. We offer a more authentic, unique style of Mexican cooking.

Our menu includes a variety of seafood dishes, soups, salads, Mexican dinners and traditional combination plates to bring you the best of Mexico.

Xalos Burrito Express (Mexican) 320 W 100th Ave. Ste. 200 907-782-9994 xalosmexicangrill.com

(Mexican) 3104 Spenard Rd. 907-274-5353 panchosvillaak.com

(Mexican) 8330 King St. 907-344-6339 lamexalaska.com

Serving the best grandes since 1972 with the best selection of tequila in the state. Home of the original chicken chipotle. Proudly making all menu items from scratch with the friendly service that makes you want to come back.

An Anchorage favorite since 1969. Extensive Tex-Mex menu as well as a selection of authentic Mexican. American favorites like prime rib, BBQ ribs, burgers AND fresh Alaska seafood. We are the original “Home of the Grande� featuring over 150 tequilas.

L D LN $$

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(Fine Dining) 701 W 36th Ave. 907-561-5367 jensrestaurant.com The menu changes often to take full advantage of the finest fresh ingredients available, as much as possible from local producers. We offer

(American) 1049 W Northern Lights Blvd.

907-770-7623 spenardroadhouse.com Serving contemporary comfort food in a casual, eclectic setting. A neighborhood restaurant and bar, we welcome you to come enjoy our amazing food, local beers

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cof feehouuse co

(Cafe) 11124 Old Seward Hwy. 907-770-9200 southak.com Enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner from our diverse, Mediterraneaninfluenced menu. A full bar offers creatively crafted gin and tonics.

Grab a local espresso and a housemade treat from our Coffeehouse. Stop in and check out our spacious

We serve the creative tastes of Mexico, fresh and authentic. Try our halibut, shrimp or Cinco de Mayo burrito, our made-to-order tacos and combination plates, tortas, nachos, quesadillas and more.

Don't forget about our traditional desserts!

L D K NA WA $

GUIDE KEY O Outdoor Seat ing B Brea kfast L Lunch D Dinner K K id Fr iendly L N Late Night Dining W B Wine & Be er Only NA No A lcohol ! Live Entertainm ent WA W heelcha ir Accessible $ Less than $10 $$ $10-15 $$ $ $16-25 $$ $$ More than $25 Each pr icing categ ory indicates the typical cost of on e entree.

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Alaska Veterans Museum 333 W Fourth Avenue, Suite 227, Anchorage, AK 99501

FRESHEST ALASKAN SEAFOOD! King, Snow & Dungeness Crab Halibut Salmon Oysters Fish & Chips

9 07.677.8802 Summer Hours: Mon.-Sat. 10 am-6 pm Winter Hours: Wed.-Sat. 10 am-5 pm Admission: $3

www.alaskaveterans.org

Corner of 5th & D Street

Great Food in Midtown! onward & upward

Olympic Center 36th & Arctic www.jensrestaurant.com

561-JENS

720 D STREET | ANCHORAGE | 907.277.6119 | secondrunalaska.com

We specialize in new and unusual artwork as well as hard to find older Alaskan pieces. You can find Alaskan Native Art, contemporary art, wearable art and jewelry, as well as a fun, and friendly staff. 2 Friends Gallery donates a percentage of all sales to local non profits.

Open Tuesday - Friday 11-6pm Saturday 10-5 and Sunday 12-5

Enjoy UNIQUE breakfast, lunch and dinner combinations E. 3rd in our cozy bar115 or scenic patio.Avenue IS NOW OPEN! 115 E. 3rd DECK Avenue DECK IS NOW OPEN!

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Just Sew ~ a Quilt Shop in Palmer ~

Unique Alaskan Fabric, Kits and Patterns Quality 100% Cotton Fabric • Classes For All Interests

579 S. Alaska – Palmer, Alaska 907-745-3649 est. 1996

Are you plane crazy?

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Don’t miss one of Anchorage’s top attractions, the

Alaska Aviation Museum View 5 hangars of vintage aircraft,

check out the bush pilot exhibits, flight simulator and more!

1068 W. FIREWEED LANE 907.522.5272 Facebook.com/packratantiques

www.alaskaairmuseum.org

is represented by a two headed wolf with a hole to capture a person’s soul. Traditionally, the Shaman wore a similar design during healing ceremonies to capture a person’s soul to protect it while they were being healed.

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Colony Inn

Charming Charming Rooms Rooms Inn Inn Café Café •• TV TV Mountain Mountain Views Views Non-Smoking Non-Smoking Phone Phone

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Winter in Fairbanks The Great Flood Klondike Gold Rush Early Fairbanks The Driving Spirit

606 S. Alaska St. • Palmer, AK • 745-3330

Dog Mushing

museum

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(Dog Mushing)

Monthly Art Show

Located at 535 Second Ave. in the Historic Empress Theater Upstairs in the Co-Op Plaza.

Summer, Daily: 11– 5pm Winter, Daily: 11– 3pm

DMISSION FREE A (907) 457-3669

is your place for Hearty, Wholesome Food Served in a Lively & Comfortable Atmosphere

550 South Alaska Street 907.746.5544

Located Downtown Palmer Plaza

TURKEYREDAK.COM

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Espresso, Teas, Juices, Draft Beers & Fine Wines OPEN MONDAY THRU SATURDAY 7AM TO 9PM

over hemak y! c s i D Kac Ba

Custom sightseeing kayak adventures and rentals Café and gifts on the harbor in Whittier

Located on the Homer Spit

907-235-9055 makoswatertaxi.com

info@lazyottercharters.com www.lazyotter.com

907-694-6887 800-587-6887

Why Whittier:

Ride the TROLLEY TROLLEY (907) (907 ) 235-2228 299-6210 Ride the HOMER ALASKA’S SIGHTSEEING TROLLEY

hiking • kayaking glacier cruising wildlife watching fishing • shrimping diving • hunting berry picking sailing

$15

All Day Pass *Includes all taxes

snow machining biking • shopping history tour walking dining • ferry riding paddle boarding bird watching cabin cruising

and sitting enjoying the awe inspiring views of Prince William Sound www.whittieralaskachamber.org

HomerTrolley.com

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Wild Alaskan Smoked Salmon and Caviar Overnight delivery anywhere in the USA! www.solomonfalls.com www.facebook.com/solomon.seafoods

Summer Hours: 9am - 5pm Monday- Sunday Winter Hours: 12noon - 5pm Tuesday - Sunday 907.835.2764 • 217 Egan Dr. • Valdez, AK 99686

www.valde zmuseum.org

• Deli • Market • Gas • Laundromat • Drop off Laundry Service • Self-Service Gas Station • Daily Deli Specials YS Mon–Sat 7am to 11pm Sun 7am to 10pm

835-3278

7 DA K A WEE

Richardson Hwy & Airport Rd. Valdez, Alaska

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GILPATRICK’S HOTEL CHITINA INC. WHERE THE EDGERTON HWY ENDS AND THE ROAD TO WRANGELL-ST. ELIAS NATIONAL PARK AND KENNICOTT BEGINS

“More Whiskey!...And Fresh Horses For My Men!”

Live Music Friday, Saturday & Sunday DJ Dance Party Every Thursday All Summer Long!

224-3063

Karaoke Monday & Wednesday Free Pool & Open Jam Tuesdays Year Round!

201 4 Ave. in Seward th

VICE SERRANT L L FU STAU ALL RE ND SM A PUB email: info@hotelchitina.com internet: www.hotelchitina.com

ALL PRIVROOM ATE S HA BAT VE HS Phone: 907 835-5542 (winter) 907 823-2244 (summer)

NEWLY UPDATED HISTORIC BUILDING LOCATED RIGHT IN THE GHOST TOWN OF CHITINA

Travel off the beaten path with Alaskans who know the way.

Need anything?

From sporting goods to snacks, clothes to entertainment — even prescriptions — you’ll find it all in one convenient stop.

10 Alaska locations, most open 7am – 11pm in winter & 7am – Midnight in summer Anchorage: Northern Lights 1000 East Northern Lights Blvd.

907-264-9600

Anchorage: Southeast 2300 Abbott Road 907-365-2000

Chugiak-Eagle River 13401 Old Glenn Hwy. 907-689-4000

Fairbanks: East 930 Old Steese Hwy. 907-459-4200

Soldotna 43843 Sterling Hwy. 907-260-2200

Anchorage: Muldoon 7701 Debarr Road 907-269-1700

Anchorage: Dimond 2000 West Dimond Blvd.

907-267-6700

Wasilla 1501 East Parks Hwy. 907-352-5000

Fairbanks: West 3755 Airport Way 907-474-1400

Juneau 8181 Glacier Hwy. 907-789-6500

12-4-1-92510 (LKM/AKH/TXO/CXR)