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Stock & Barrel | Fall 2026

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u CELEB CHEFS THE GRILL DADS RETURN TO COLUMBUS ROOTS


Del Mar

NAPA Kitchen & Bar

Savor

Slurping Turtle

SOMETHING NEW.

Rusty Bucket

Brassica

From rooftop cocktails and patio brunches to chef-driven dinners and late-night bites, Easton brings together some of Columbus’ most distinctive dining experiences. Whether you’re discovering a new favorite or returning to a table you already love, every visit offers something worth savoring.

eastontowncenter.com


SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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640 HIGH ST.

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COLUMBUS

574 GEORGESVILLE RD

EmeliosPizza @emeliosrestaurant_614 614-279-7900

GET SOME! COLUMBUS, OH 4205 WEAVERTON LANE - EASTON 614.478.7437

www.PIESandPINTS.net


CONTENTS C O V E R PA C K A G E

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WHERE THERE’S SMOKE Celeb chefs The Grill Dads return to Columbus roots

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS

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THE MEDITERRANEAN MILE

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TALK DIRTY TO ME

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BUN IN A MILLION

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PIEROGI POWER

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BENCH THE BURGERS

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UP IN SMOKE

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GREAT DUMPLING DEBATE

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ON THE COVER: The Grill Dads Ryan Fey and Mark Anderson on Fey’s Canal Winchester farm. Photo by Tommy Feisel


Clintonville • Graceland • Easton • Powell


DELAWARE

81 LAKE STREET

HILLIARD

COLUMBUS

5414 ROBERTS RD

1050 HILLIARD ROME ROAD (OPENING THIS FALL)

(614) 319-3091

(740) 513-2418

EASTON

COLUMBUS

4188 BRIGHTON ROSE WAY

4615 N HIGH STREET

(614) 383-7033

(614) 754-8960

cut132.com

ritzyscolumbus.com

Hungry? Fix it.

ClusterTruck.com

$5 OFF

USE CODE:

See the Menu

BURGERWEEK

Code valid through 10/31/2026. Single use per customer. Minimum order $25. May not be combined with any other offers. Apply code at checkout. No cash value. At participating locations only.


From the Editor PUBLISHER Wayne T. Lewis CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Lindsay Press EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jack McLaughlin

J AC K M C L AU G H L I N Editor-In-Chief

A Hot Take An unfortunate reality that I’ve had to face while getting older is the fact that I’m a fire person. Even writing it out makes me flinch, bringing to mind that kid everyone knew in middle school, the one who was more than a little too pyro-friendly, who talked through you instead of to you, and who carried a different monogrammed Zippo lighter for every day of the week. But it’s not what you think. I’m far from the Macdonald Triad and Roman candles outside the month of July. So let me explain. For starters, I love the word: fire. Stark. Dramatically fricative. Like it’s threatening to catch the air itself ablaze. It’s also so strange and mercurial. Fire can be harnessed by children to light sparklers, but even a single misuse can be catastrophic, in one of the most literal senses of the word. That almost impossible level of imbalance is fascinating to me. And then there’s the sensory stuff. The wildness of the leaping flame, the warmth, the smell of woodsmoke, and the pop and hiss of a pine bough when it catches. In terms of food, of cooking, why in the world would you rather flip a steak inside over a stove than outside above roaring flames? Alright. The question’s rhetorical. I know there are lots of reasons—including weather, consistency, cleanup, and not getting your hands burned off—you might opt for the latter. Maybe I’m just too dramatic at heart, but if given a choice, I’m taking the live fire every damn time. I’m the kind of person who would light up a tripod charcoal grill that’s decades past its prime to make a single burger, because cooking with live fire is—if nothing else—an experience, and one I enjoy. When I met Ryan Fey and Mark Anderson of The Grill Dads (this issue’s cover story), one of the first things they shared with me was their love for grilling at any— and every—time of the year, whether it’s on a breezy summer afternoon or midwinter while snow is falling. And “shared” might be the wrong word. They gushed. They proselytized, even. All in the name of grilling. That passion resonated with me, and it helped shape the pages of this magazine, in more ways than one. If nothing else, I’d like this issue of Stock & Barrel—in honor of my weird middle age love of fire, and The Grill Dads’ enthusiasm for whenever, wherever, outdoor grilling—to serve like just entertainment and more like a permission slip. I want this to be the sign you needed to start a bonfire with friends tonight, where you gather around in someone’s yard, sipping whiskey, and flipping steaks. I hope this is the last little push you need to walk outside—even if it’s by yourself, and even if you’re cooking for yourself—to let that charcoal burn.

ASSOCIATE EDITORS Maggie Valentine Mary McCarthy CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Aaron Massey, Heidi Oliver, Evan Frere, Steven Rankins, Tommy Feisel CONTRIBUTING WRITERS David Shaw, Jack McLaughlin, Jordan Abbruzzese, Kristen Page, Melinda Green, Matt Mahoney, Mary McCarthy, Sav McKee CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS Brooke Stanley, Julie Friedman, Lauren Green CREATIVE DIRECTOR Andrew Thomas CREATIVE DESIGNERS Abby Nocera Leah Ronski MARKETING MANAGER Emma Mortellaro MARKETING ASSISTANT Gillian Dunahoe ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Meggin Weimerskirch SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Mindy Wilhite Anna Gerhard Meghan Chapman ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Elliot Harpham

Questions about advertising? Scan here!

Created by

(614) Magazine 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215 Office: (614) 488-4400 | Fax: (614) 488-4402 Email submissions to: editor@614now.com www.614now.com ©Copyright 2026 by Lewis & Clark Media LLC. Reproduction of any content, in whole or in part, without written consent of publisher is strictly prohibited. Stock & Barrel Magazine is not responsible for return of unsolicited materials, manuscripts, or photographs. "Stock & Barrel" is a registered Trademark of Lewis & Clark Media, LLC

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CALENDAR Whether you’re in the mood for Italian sausage or pumpkin spiced lattes, Central Ohio has some major events coming up celebrating the crisp fall season.

Columbus Oktoberfest September 11-13 Ohio Expo Center and State Fairgrounds Free Admission

UPPER ARLINGTON

1625 W LANE AVE

(614) 826-0028

Columbus Coffee Festival October 3-4 Franklin County Fairgrounds $22-$79

COLUMBUS

1570 N HIGH STREET

(740) 513-2418 parlaycolumbus.com

The Columbus Italian Festival October 9-11 St. John the Baptist Church $12-$25

Burgers, Chicken, Salads, & Shakes

WESTERVILLE

691 N CLEVELAND AVENUE

(614) 918-8680 bruburgerbar.com

Circleville Pumpkin Show October 21-24 Circleville Free Admission 614NOW.COM FALL 2026

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HOT PLATES If Instagram is good for anything, it’s taking beautiful photos of someone’s dinner. Shamelessly leaning into that ethos, we’ve rounded up the best Columbus-centric social media food photos we could find.

@rayrayshogpit

@milosdelicbus

@bendiwoknbar

@chouetterestaurant

@bearsbagels614

@ringsidecafecbus

@_manila.bakery_

@pauliegeesshortnorth

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@wariosbeefandpork

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@matchamecafe


PRODUCTS WE'RE LOVING Burundi Kinbingo coffee blend Florin Coffee You just can’t go wrong sourcing your morning brew locally. This one has notes of fresh apple, honey, and dried mango. The tropical fruit and honey come together with just the right level of juicy and syrupy sweet. Perfect for savoring the last days of summer slowly. Find them at 874 Oakland Park Ave.

Fry Sauce Sauce Revival Founded by Ohio natives and womenowned, this chickpea sauce brand packs a whopping 48g of fiber in every bottle. No seed oils or gums, it comes in Mild Buffalo, Honey Mustard, and (our favorite) Fry Sauce. Coming to a Giant Eagle near you.

Dill Pickle-Pickle The Crazy Cucumber We here at 614 are pickle people. The small batch perfection coming out of this Ohio business is dill-icious. Our favorite right now is the Dill Pickle-Pickle, but we love them all. Find them at your local farmers market, or online.

Pawpaw Wheat Ale Jackie O’s on Fourth Brewed in celebration of the Ohio Pawpaw Festival, this Wheat Ale was fermented with the Ohio native Pawpaw fruit; a unique relative of tropical fruit trees that grows in temperate climates. Pawpaw Wheat has notes of mango, banana, and melon. Available for a limited time, while Pawpaw season lasts. Find them at 171 N. 4th St.

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CHEF’S PICKS Columbus culinary pros dish on their favorite local tailgate fare By Jack McLaughlin Design by Abby Nocera

Owner, Hoggy’s BBQ

Summer is fine, but early fall is the real best time of the year. For local foodies, early September signals the beginning of Buckeye football, but more importantly, it means tailgate season has arrived. We asked a handful of local chefs and restaurant owners what their favorite local tailgate food was. Here’s what they said:

RILEY HARRIS

Owner, Love Riley’s

“My favorite tailgate spot is Zeno’s! I love the atmosphere and their pizza is so good! Plus they have pull tabs and those are so fun.”

SAVANNAH LEWIE

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KYLE TURNER

“My favorite food for tailgates are the cinnamon sticks from Tremont Goodie Shop. My father used to always get those and bring them to his tailgates with club 44 (his friends).”

JACK DALE BENNETT

Owner, Cheffy Dawg

“Shoutout the wings at Galloway Tavern. Worth the drive to the West Side for the vibes and the wings every time. Also the confit wings at Eight and Sand Tavern. I like them naked with all the sauces on the side.”

CHRIS BEARDMAN

Owner, Gahanna Cinnamon Swirls

Owner, Fat Arnie’s Sandwich Shop

“My favorite place to grab tailgate food is High Bank Distillery. They have such a great atmosphere, and their food is always so good—it’s the perfect spot for elevated game day favorites.”

“I love to pregame at Johnnie’s on Glenn to get a hot dog to pair with a cheap beer and a shot. Come game time though, nothing beats the garlic knots from Black Dog Pizzeria.”

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Best of Both Worlds By Mary McCarthy Photos by Steven Rankins Story Design by Leah Ronski

Across Columbus, by-day coffee concepts are popping up inside of bars that open at night; Here’s what you should know about the new trend

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here’s something so idyllic about a cafe on a weekday morning—the hum of the espresso machine, orders flying, coworkers laughing, oat milk steaming. It’s enough to make anyone feel productive, optimistic about the day, and put-together. By 5 p.m., that cafe counter has a completely different job. The espresso machine shuts down, the coffee syrup gets swapped out for simple syrup, and a bar opens for business. More and more, Columbus cafe concepts are teaming up with local bars to keep people in the stools from first pour to last call. With costs rising across the board and margins getting slimmer, businesses sharing space is a winwin, as long as the relationship is the right fit. Take Spokes Café for example: the coffee

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concept that operates out of The Ohio Taproom by day. Roland Monterroso (owner, head roaster, and sole barista) described the arrangement as a partnership that’s based in mutual respect. He said, “There’s a working relationship and on Saturday there’s an overlap of a few hours. I help them out when they have [morning] deliveries, sometimes people come in at 9 a.m. for a beer and I just serve it.” John Evans, owner of Ohio Taproom, found a natural fit with Roland and Spokes. He said, “I was looking for a small business that could operate during the day. We had been serving BrootLegg cold brew coffee, and one of their owners introduced Roland to us. His passion, kindness, and knowledge were all evident when we first met.” →


Top: Ravello’s Coffee is poured during the mornings inside The Daily Bar’s space, which (bottom) serves libations beginning in the afternoon

AUTHENTIC Mexican Restaurant

HAPPY HOUR 4PM - 8PM @casajaliscogrillcantina

5445 Roberts Rd, Hilliard OH 614NOW.COM FALL 2026

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“Come for a coffee and stay for a beer” ↓ Roland Monterroso, owner of Spokes. Photo courtesy of Luke Leffel

At Spokes, the bar is lined with cafe regulars who spend the morning chatting with Roland, working on laptops, sharing donuts, and enjoying the community that naturally springs up around him. He said, “It’s great meeting and becoming friends with people just by taking the time not to rush with a cup of coffee, but to sip it and engage. Engaging is one of the key components of having a small cafe, opening the doors for others to meet. That’s what I’m trying to do.” He emphasized how elemental a simple cup of coffee can be in your daily routine. He said, “A cup of coffee can be transformational in a way, for connecting and engaging with each other.” According to Roland, it doesn’t happen as often as you’d think but he loves when people “come for a coffee and stay for a beer.” Ohio Taproom manager Kevin McAllister (do not ask him about Home Alone) said, “It’s a great way to fill the space when the taproom isn’t open. It brings in new people both ways. The history of coffee is parallel with the same idea of beer, the passion and the craftsmanship.” Down the road, Cordial Cocktail Club (formerly known as The Bottle Shop) has a similar arrangement with Palomino, a specialty coffee concept that operates during select mornings. According to Palomino co-owners Marco Colmenares Aguilar and Brian Dages, the arrangement is more than just a matter of efficiency. The concept boosts engagement and exposure for both businesses. “It’s a built-in space that already has a crowd, it allows the bar to have more visibility for people to come in who wouldn’t normally,” co-owner Brian Dages said.


Art in spirits A N A R T I S T C O C KTA I L M E N U I N S P I R E D BY L O CA L C R E AT I V E S

↑ John Blakely, co-owner of The Daily Bar

The two businesses run a tight ship, with a batonworthy afternoon handoff. Palomino wraps up cafe orders by 1:45 p.m., so Cordial can prep for their bar service. Dages said, “It’s fun to share because the people who run Cordial are such a tight crew, even though we’re separated hours-wise, we’re still part of the family. They come in to get coffee to start their shift, and we stick around for a drink after the cafe closes.” He emphasized that there’s a camaraderie between the teams, “Even as far as utilizing space, finding a way to make it our own, they’ve been very welcoming. There’s a lot of mutual respect, because of that it’s very smooth.” For Dages, the concept of sharing space with an established business is a strategic no-brainer. He said, “It gives me a better idea of what I can expect from an operations side of things, you can be creative and do the things you want to do without the huge risk and investment. That makes it a lot more fun, which is the whole point.” → 614NOW.COM FALL 2026

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“The history of coffee is parallel with the same idea of beer, the passion and the Craftsmanship.” ↓ From coffee cups to beer glasses, The Daily Bar has become a premium third space


On 4th Street, The Daily Bar is packed every morning thanks to Ravello’s Coffee. Known for their Instagram-worthy lattes, the cafe service runs from 7 a.m. until 2 p.m. Monday through Friday, and Sundays from 7:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. The massive garage door stays open (weather permitting), the warm woods, leather couches, and copious sunshine make it a perfect morning pit stop. On any given morning, you’ll see students lining up for a specialty latte, parents chatting on the patio while toddlers play underfoot, and the ever-present remote workforce happily seated on their laptops. After coffee service, The Daily Bar opens at 4 p.m., and the space continuously sees barstools and cups filled. Daily Bar owner John Blakely said, "My fiancé Emily and I worked really hard to transform an old garage in Italian Village into a beautiful, bright space that people enjoy spending time in...it's got so many windows, so it was a shame the space was only open for a few hours of daylight. I love coming in when Ravello's is open and seeing so many people enjoying the atmosphere we created." Ask Roland, and he’ll tell you it’s about relationships; the ritual of enjoying a coffee in the morning surrounded by friendly faces. Dages would probably agree, and point to the math as a business owner. Less overhead, less risk, a built-in crowd of regulars, and a tight crew of “coworkers” all sharing a space with the same goal— enjoy your work and share it with others. The generosity of these bar owners and the enthusiasm of the coffee teams is transforming some of the coolest spaces in Columbus into a go-to third space for your days and your nights. ♦

Find your next jolt or brew at any of the locations mentioned: Palomino/Cordial: 237 King Ave. Spokes/Ohio Taproom: 1291 W. 3rd Ave. Ravello’s/The Daily Bar: 883 N. 4th St.

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THE

By Sav McKee Photos courtesy of Amara Story Design by Abby Nocera

MEDITERRANEAN Star chef Josh Dalton brings his anticipated travel-inspired eatery to the former home of Milestone 229 along the Scioto Mile

MILE


Something refreshing about Josh Dalton, the mind behind award-winning spots like Veritas and SPECK, is that he never pretends to be something he’s not. The same goes for his restaurants, including his newly opened Mediterranean concept, Amara. “Even on our best day, there’s no way I can say we’re going to be just like the Greek Islands or Istanbul,” he said. “I’d like to think that Amara is a way for us to bring back something for those who can’t ever get there, but I could never tell anybody that I cook as good as a Mediterranean grandmother.” Amara (named after the Sanskrit word meaning eternal and the Greek word meaning unfading) isn’t trying to be a traditional Mediterranean restaurant. “Mediterranean at Heart,” written beneath the name, is a better description, as Dalton’s interpretation of flavors and experiences were gathered from his time in Italy, Spain, Istanbul, and Greece. →

← An aromatic Fig Leaf Gin & Tonic

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“I COULD NEVER TELL ANYBODY THAT I COOK AS GOOD AS A MEDITERRANEAN GRANDMOTHER.”


Traveling is how he developed his good taste. Despite his accolades, Dalton isn’t a classically trained chef. “I grew up relatively poor,” he said. After reading Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry and working in the service industry in New Orleans, he became interested in the restaurant world. “But it wasn’t until I started traveling in my 30s where I all of a sudden realized there’s a whole new world out there. I tasted Champagne in the Champagne region of France. Tequila in Jalisco. Pasta in Italy. And it all tasted better.” “If I would have never traveled,” he said, “I would have kept to tweezer French food,” the first technique he learned, like most chefs. He first began cooking cuisines inspired by different cultures at his Downtown Columbus spot Veritas, where he introduced rotating global menus to Columbus. Think journeys through Japan, Mexico, London, and Korea. And although some might wonder what an American guy from the Gulf is doing cooking Thai food, Dalton isn’t trying to be a Thai chef. “We’re just trying to do it justice. We’re taking something we’re passionate about and putting it through our lens,” he said. Rebellious by nature, there is only one rule he sticks to: “We won’t do a menu unless we’ve been there,” Dalton said. “If we’re going to make a menu out of it, the least we can do is actually go there and see it. And a lot of it. We’re doing it with respect.” For Amara, he spent his days wandering around the Mediterranean, paying attention to the food, but also the pace, people, and the feeling of these coastal cities. He also noticed their menu sizes, or lack thereof. “I think the next big food trend needs to be smaller menus,” he laughed, noting that American restaurants often try to appeal to everyone by offering everything. But you’ll find Amara to be more focused, true to the Mediterranean spirit. The menu has six categories, all designed for sharing, another takeaway he picked up on his travels. There are five hummuses, from classic chickpea to braised lamb neck; spreads like Mom’s Feta Dip, Labneh, and Muhammara with warm pita baked in the stone-hearth oven in the middle of the dining room. Raw offerings include crudo, beef, and tuna, while the vegetable section moves from gem salads and heritage tomatoes to grilled vegetables. →

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When I visited in August, I ordered the Smoked Cauliflower, the signature vegetarian dish with vadouvan, labneh, and kataifi, alongside mujaddara—lentils, rice, and caramelized onions—topped with a sauce that was good enough to sip by the spoonful. My husband, a pescatarian, chose the Whole Grilled Branzino with pil pil dashi, chili oil, and fresh herbs. Both came steaming hot from the stone-hearth, melting in our mouths. We also ordered a side of the Batatas, fried sweet potatoes popular in Lebanese cuisine, which our server described as “addictive.” The table next to us eventually asked what they were after they heard us gasp. We were already full when the dessert menu arrived, but the Soft Serve with cardamom, kataifi, and honey seemed to be on nearly every table. We took the hint. One bite in, we both closed our eyes. It was a combination neither of us had tasted before in Columbus. And that’s just the food. The drinks also expertly blend Mediterranean flavor with savory vegetables, bright fruit, honey, and spices. There are Fig Leaf Gin & Tonics, Tomato Leaf Martinis, and the Amaratini, Dalton’s take on an espresso martini with cardamom, dates, and demerara. The wine and beer list travels just as far, with Bosnian reds, Turkish rosés, Slovenian whites, and Italian and Spanish lagers. Then there’s the question of “local,” a word Dalton isn’t particularly sentimental about. “I feel like the Midwest has this whole obsession with local, local, local,” he said. “But I don’t want local olive oil. I want the best olive oil. I don’t want local seafood. I want the best seafood.” An Ohio tomato is great when it’s actually tomato season. “But I don’t want Ohio tomatoes in December,” he laughed. “If it’s local, that’s a bonus, but I think we should present honest food. The older I get, the more I want my meals to be simple, with less ingredients, so that they can speak for themselves.” Amara’s food may transport you elsewhere, but the rest of the restaurant keeps you firmly in Columbus. Set in the former home of Milestone 229 at 229 S. Civic Center Dr., it overlooks the Riverfront and Scioto Mile Fountain, with a patio that makes a pretty compelling case for ordering another round.

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On the Friday I visited, there was a jazz concert at Bicentennial Park. People grabbed drinks at Amara’s outdoor bar and carried them back to the grass thanks to DORA. I finished mine on one of the sofas beside a fire, with Columbus’ skyline on one side and the fountain changing colors on the other. Somewhere in between was the sound of children laughing and splashing in the water. Sitting there on a summer night, witnessing groups of friends lingering far later than they planned, and watching Columbus gather around the riverfront, it was hard not to think Dalton had brought home exactly what he wanted: not a replica of another country, but a feeling from it. Turns out, you don’t have to travel thousands of miles to find a little Mediterranean magic. Sometimes, you just have to head Downtown. ♦ Book a table and view the menu at eatamara.com.

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Fresh rotating crudo of the day, this one with Atlantic scallop ↓


↑ Ikra featuring whipped yogurt and smoked trout roe

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← A dirty soda from mobile concept What the Fizz. Photo by Heidi Oliver

Dirty sodas are taking Columbus by storm, here are seven Central Ohio spots to try the trending drinks


By Kristen Page Photos by Heidi Oliver Stoy Design by Andrew Thomas

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tah has given us two great things: The Secret Wives of Mormon Lives and dirty soda. While the former has recently taken over the reality TV world, the latter—a mix of carbonated sugary drinks combined with sweet cream and syrup bases—has been a trend among Mormon communities since the 2010s, substituting alcohol and coffee with the creative, (sometimes) caffeinated drink. The Mormon-rooted beverage quickly blew up thanks to the reality show and social media, now dirty soda has landed right in the heart of the Midwest. Here’s a quick-hitting list of where to find the trending drinks around Columbus. →

WHAT THE FIZZ?! Mobile Food Truck

To get you warmed up in the dirty soda world, try The Dirty Dr. at Central Ohio’s first soda trailer, What the Fizz?! It’s a Dr. Pepper with raspberry and vanilla flavoring with a little bit of sweet cream and cherries, too. The soda shop is owned by sisters, Payton Fletcher, Hunter Rummell, and Aaliyah Orr, as an honor to their late mother, who by no coincidence also loved sodas.

↑ Photo by Heidi Oliver

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THE DIRTY FIZZ 33 S Center St, West Jefferson, OH 43162

Try The Dirty Fizz for another drinks on wheels option by West Jefferson natives, Wendi and Zach Jones. They have over 25 beverage options from dirty sodas to lemonade, coffee and energy drinks. They’ll likely be around West Jefferson, Grove City, and Galloway throughout the week. ↑ Photo courtesy of The Dirty Fizz Photo courtesy of Drink Up ↓ Photo courtesy of Agave & Rye ↓

DRINK UP

AGAVE & RYE

345 N Chillicothe St, Plain City, OH 43064

Several locations

Open six days a week from 11a.m. to 9p.m. MondaySaturday, Drink Up Soda Shop located in Plain City brings their love of artisan sodas to Central Ohio. Owned and operated by Jim and Tiffany Eudaily, they’ve been a family run business since fall 2024. Their menu includes dozens of flavor combos with seven different sodas.

If you aren’t so much into the alcohol-free drinks, Agave & Rye might be just the place for you. Added this summer are four different dirty margaritas. Try Mango Chile, Strawberry, Coconut, or Root Beer to get your dirty soda and margarita fix.

BEER BARREL PIZZA & GRILL Several locations

With three different locations in the Columbus area, Beer Barrel Pizza & Grill will get your specialty soft drink fix. Choose one of the four soda specials or one of the three Red Bull drink options if you need the extra energy. ↑ Photo courtesy of Beer Barrel Pizza & Grill

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CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1855 Northwest Blvd, Columbus, OH 43212

Head to Grandview for another set of dirty soda options at Chocolate Café. These drinks were originally intended to be seasonal, but now it seems like they’re here to stay. Try one of their three signature sets, Dirty Doctor with cherry, vanilla, and a sweet cream on top, Blueberry Muffin Soda, and an Iced Coffee Float with two scoops of ice cream, chocolate, caramel, and cold brew of course.

↑ Photo by Heidi Oliver

WINSTON’S COFFEE & WAFFLES 3589 Indianola Ave, Columbus, OH 43214

In addition to the coffee and waffles you know and love are four specialty sips: Dirty Peach Soda, Dirty Sprite, Dirty Coke, and Dirty Strawberry Alani. They also have some fruit refreshers if you aren’t in the mood to get a little dirty! Try them soon, as the menu likes to change!

↑ Photo courtesy of Winston’s Coffee & Waffles 614NOW.COM FALL 2026

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V W BUN MILLION 8

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Photo courtesy of Savannah Lewie →

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By Jordan Abbruzzese Photos by Aaron Massey Story Design by Leah Ronski

In a long line of viral Columbus bakers, Savannah Lewie’s super sweet Gahanna micro bakery is next up


793 N High St • hubbardgrille.com • 614.291.5000 ↑ Savannah Lewie celebrates one year of Gahanna Cinnamon Swirls

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he baking scene in Columbus is brimming with local spots that have quickly gone from zero to 100, with popular operations like Bears Bagels and 2026 James Beard Award semifinalist Dan the Baker seemingly blowing up overnight. And who can forget Love Riley’s viral Dot Cakes? From weekend farmers markets to pick-up “bread boxes,” every community has a neighborhood bakery. And we like it that way. Rising the ranks and celebrating their one year in business is Gahanna Cinnamon Swirls, a bakery concept founded by Savannah Lewie. Known for weekly drops that sell like hot— well, cinnamon rolls—Lewie may still be considered a micro bakery for now, but she's poised for a breakout year, and set to outgrow the "micro" moniker sooner rather than later. Her roster of fun monthly flavors includes options like Biscoff Cookie Butter, Lemon Crumble Cake, Strawberry Shortcake, and Birthday Cake Swirls. As a mom to three homeschooled kiddos, what started as a venture to earn a little extra dough has turned into a full-time operation. She is currently fulfilling orders of 500 rolls a week, including regular restocks of her Classic Swirls at SGT Coffee Co., a veteran-owned coffee shop at 140 N. High St., in Gahanna. →

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According to Lewie, there are a few things she can contribute to her success. After launching her chai flavored cinnamon rolls within a Gahanna Facebook group in the summer of 2025, she immediately had orders coming in. The next month, she gave her pumpkin flavored rolls a try. Lewie quickly learned that folks were eager to support someone local, as each week ramped up to more orders. While she's primed to outgrow the "micro" label, Lewie's operation will remain a local one. “I wanted it to feel like something that was connected to my community because I grew up here in Gahanna,” she explained. “I think the name has been helpful with it growing because it tells people where I am, and exactly what I sell. And people support something local.” In September 2025, Lewie received a flurry of media and online coverage, as many named Gahanna Cinnamon Swirls a favorite micro-bakery on the East Side of Columbus. To keep up with her orders, she is currently pulling 12-hour bake days, three times a

week. In addition to making the cinnamon rolls, she has prep work, packaging, deliveries to SGT Coffee, and social media content creation where her videos continue to garner attention on Instagram and TikTok. “I think my business took off when I started showing videos and TikToks of me making the cinnamon rolls in my home,” said Lewie. “Someone said they like it because in a world of AI, it’s inspiring to see something real.” “I think people like to see the journey of someone starting a business,” she added. While this success is a welcome surprise, Lewie feels that everything she has done in the past has built up to this moment. She has a marketing background specializing in social media and YouTube content, and has worked for a small company before. Lewie also has food service experience, and has come up with other small business owners. “I have seen entrepreneurs, and knew how hard it was, and I thought I didn’t want to do that,” Lewie reflected. “But all of those pieces have fallen together with this business in an unexpected way.” →


Sport Bar

TRY OUR Seafood Menu!

4 ↑ Since 2025, Lewie's micro bakery has taken off, fulfilling more than 500 orders a week from the comfort of her own kitchen.

Serving up the best Latin Seafood in the city! @taconicecolumbus

4832 W BROAD ST, COLUMBUS OH

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"I WANTED IT S FEEL LIKE

SOMETHING THAT WAS

CONNECTED v TO MY v

COMMUNITY

BECAUSE I GREW UP

For the fall season, Lewie plans to offer Pumpkin Spice Swirls, and is hoping to explore caramel apple and maple pecan flavors as well. The holiday season will bring back her popular White Chocolate Peppermint Swirl. The best way to snag weekly cinnamon rolls is by visiting Lewie’s website and signing up for her newsletter, where subscribers will be notified of pre-orders via email. SGT Coffee also regularly stocks her Classic Swirls if you are itching to try as soon as possible. Lewie’s site has other goods as well, such as new merch with embroidered cinnamon rolls, or shirts that boast “Gahanna.” Lewie looks forward to growing her business, with hopes of one day running a storefront in the community that helped make this possible. For now, she is enjoying engaging with customers and recognizing the journey that brought Gahanna Cinnamon Swirls to where it is today. “If I were to give advice to anyone else, it’s ‘don’t be afraid to try things’ and ‘don’t be afraid of failure,’” concluded Lewie. “I have tried and failed at so many things in my life, and it brought me here.” ♦

To get notified of Gahanna Cinnamon Swirls’ next drop, sign up for their email list “The Swirl List” at gahannaswirls.com.

k HERE W k

GAHANNA t

" ↑ Gahanna Cinnamon Swirls’ Classic Swirls 4-pack. Photo courtesy of Savannah Lewie


PRO TIPS FOR

PORK CUTS Use this guide as a reference for key benefits, simple recipes and culinary pro tips for the most popular pork cuts.

CUT

PLANTS

PLANTS

METHOD

TEMPERATURE

160° F ground pork

cabbage, bell pepper, carrots

soy sauce, sesame oil, garlic, ginger

with 3 min rest

green beans, pineapple and juice

maple syrup

with 3 min rest

jalapenos, pickled red onion, pineapple

salsa

with 3 min rest

corn, onions, sweet potatoes

BBQ sauce

Buy More, Save More Purchase a whole pork loin and cut into your own chops to save money.

Freeze for Later Freeze half or the leftover pork loin roast for up to 3-6 months to thaw and reheat for a quick and easy meal.

pressure cook

145° F pork tenderloin

Utilize pre-cut vegetables, canned fruit, frozen vegetables and microwavable whole grains.

air fry

145° F pork loin roast

Pair with Convenience

sauté

145° F pork chop

SHORTCUT

slow cook

Cook Once, Eat Twice Slow cook pork in broth, once fully cooked, split in half to use for two separate meals. Examples: pulled pork sandwiches with BBQ sauce one night, pulled pork tacos the next day.


PLANNING FOR PORK

•

Take inventory of the foods you already have at home before you plan out meals.

•

Lean on sheet pan and one pot meals for less clean up.

•

Utilize convenient options such as pre-cut produce, frozen steamer vegetables and microwavable grains as a quick side or ingredient.

•

Purchase 1-2 fruits and vegetables each to utilize in snacks and meals throughout the week.

•

Cook once, eat twice—when preparing pork, make enough to last several meals.

•

Purchase a whole pork loin and cut into several sets of pork chops and loin roasts to save money.

DID YOU KNOW?

Pork tenderloin is just as lean as boneless skinless chicken breast.

2.5

MILLION CHILDREN

5.7

MILLION ADULTS

meet potassium recommendations daily when pork is on the plate. Pork helps consumers consume more plants!

145° F

with 3 min rest is the safe internal cooking temperature for whole muscle cuts of pork such as chops, roasts and loins.

3 oz

serving of pork

Rich in: thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, selenium, zinc. Good source of: choline, pantothenic acid, phosphorus.

lean and high fat pork fat 110 Both can be described as kokumi,

flavor a Japanese word to describe nuances “rich taste” or “delicious.”

LEARN MORE ABOUT PORK NUTRITION!

pork.org/nutrition

© 2026 National Pork Board, Des Moines, Iowa USA. This message funded by America’s Pork Producers and the Pork Checkoff.


AL PASTOR TACOS

INGREDIENTS Al Pastor Pork 3 lbs boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2 inch chunks

INSTRUCTIONS

4 cloves garlic, minced

Al Pastor Pork 1.

In a large bowl, whisk together all ingredients except for the pork shoulder until smooth

2.

Heat a large Dutch oven or heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, sear the pork until browned on all sides. Transfer all of the pork back to the pot, cover, and cook over low heat (or in a 325°F oven) for 2½–3 hours, until the pork is fork tender

3.

Shred or roughly chop the pork. Return it to the pan and cook over mediumhigh heat for 5–10 minutes until some of the edges become caramelized and slightly crispy

Pineapple Salsa 4.

1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp dried oregano 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

2 tbsp achiote paste

1 tsp kosher salt

2 chipotle peppers in adobo, minced

1/2 tsp black pepper

1 dried guajillo chile, seeded, softened, and blended (or 2 tbsp guajillo chile powder)

1/2 cup orange juice 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar 2 tbsp brown sugar 2 tbsp vegetable oil

Assembly 5.

Fill warmed corn tortilla with the caramelized al pastor pork

6.

Top with crumbled queso fresco and pineapple salsa

7.

Finish with fresh cilantro, a squeeze of lime, and a drizzle of habanero orange hot sauce

Combine salsa ingredients in a bowl, stir well, and refrigerate until ready to serve

KENNEDY NANCE MACKENZIE RIVER

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Pineapple Salsa 2 cups fresh pineapple, diced 1/4 cup red onion, finely diced 1 jalapeño, minced 1 lime, juiced 2 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro pinch of salt


BEER-BRAISED

PORK SHANK

INGREDIENTS 2 16 oz pork shanks

1 orange, quartered

1/2 tsp salt

chicken stock, to cover

1/2 tsp black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS Pork Shanks 1.

2.

Preheat the oven to 350°F, season shanks with salt and pepper, heat a large roasting pan over medium heat, add olive oil, and brown shanks on all sides Add the remaining ingredients and finish with chicken stock just to the top of the shanks, cover and place in the oven for 2–2½ hours, or until tender

16 oz IPA

Cherry Yuzu Gastrique

6 garlic cloves

1 cup rice wine vinegar

2 tbsp minced shallots

1 cup sugar

1 jalapeño, split

1 cup dried cherries

2 sprigs rosemary

2 tbsp yuzu juice, or lime juice if yuzu is unavailable

2 tbsp olive oil

3.

4.

Make your favorite mashed potato recipe, but season with white miso and soy sauce instead of salt, place each shank on a bed of potatoes, top with flaky sea salt, and spoon cherry gastrique over the top

12 sprigs thyme 1/2 cup tomato paste

Save the cooking liquid; it is great for soups!

Cherry Yuzu Gastrique 5.

Combine vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan, bring to a simmer and add cherries, cook until slightly thickened, add yuzu and remove from heat, serve at room temperature

PAUL YOW FORBIDDEN ROOT COLUMBUS

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SUPER

TONKOTSU!

INGREDIENTS Super Tonkotsu Soup 2 lbs pork neck bones 2 lbs pork femurs, cut lengthwise to expose marrow

INSTRUCTIONS

7 oz pork back fat

Soup

1 head garlic, halved horizontally

1.

40

Blanch bones: Place neck bones and femurs in a large stockpot, cover with cold water, and bring to a rolling boil over high heat for 10–15 minutes, then drain completely

2.

Scrub bones: Rinse each bone under cold running water, scrubbing away dark blood pockets inside marrow cavities, clean your stockpot

3.

Primary boil: Return bones and back fat to the pot, add 6–8 quarts of fresh cold water, at least 2 inches above the bones, bring to a hard rolling boil over high heat, cover and maintain a steady boil for 6–8 hours topping off with hot water hourly to keep bones submerged

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1 large yellow onion, halved, skin on

4.

5.

Add aromatics: Add onion, garlic, ginger, and green onions, keep covered and boil hard for 2 more hours until the liquid is milky white and reduced to 8–10 cups Strain and emulsify: Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean container, discarding solids, use an immersion blender for 1–2 minutes to fully emulsify the fat into a smooth broth

2-inch piece fresh ginger, sliced 3 green onions 2 liters cold water, plus additional hot water as needed

Ramen 6.

Cook noodles according to package instructions

7.

Assemble ramen as desired

JEFF TSAO FUKURYU RAMEN

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Toppings 1 bundle ramen noodles 2 pieces braised pork belly or shoulder 2 oz chopped pork belly or shoulder 2 pieces fried pork belly 1 oz sliced green onion 1 soy-braised softboiled egg any other vegetable toppings


BELLA VISTA

INGREDIENTS 4 oz sausage 2 oz olive oil 1 tbsp butter 3 oz Chardonnay 3 oz sun-dried tomatoes and artichokes 3 oz heavy cream pasta of your choice

INSTRUCTIONS 1.

Heat pan with olive oil

2.

Sauté non-fennel sausage of your choice, while the sausage is browning add butter and Chardonnay

3.

Once sausage is brown stir in sun-dried tomatoes and artichokes

4.

Stir in heavy cream for one minute

5.

Stir in cooked pasta of your choice

JAVIER AND JAMIE GUTIERREZ VITTORIA

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PORK

MILANESE INSTRUCTIONS Caper Mustard Aioli 1.

Combine all ingredients (except oil) in a blender or food processor and blend, gradually while blending add the oil in a thin stream until smooth and combined

Apple Cider Vinaigrette Potato Salad 2.

Combine mustard and vinegar in a container, using an immersion blender, slowly and gradually add the oil to make the vinaigrette

3.

Fold in remaining ingredients by hand and season with salt and pepper

4.

Cook the potatoes starting in cold salted water, bring to a simmer and cook until fork tender

5.

Strain the potatoes and let them cool to room temperature

6.

Fold in the cider vinaigrette to your liking and season with salt and pepper, chill, and reserve for later

INGREDIENTS Caper Mustard Aioli 3 tbsp capers 4 tsp caper brine 3 large egg yolks 1/4 cup dijon mustard

Pork Collar 7.

1/4 cup yellow mustard

Place the pork collar on top of plasticwrapped prep table, lay plastic wrap over the pork, and gently pound the pork flat

8.

Set up three pans, the first with flour, the second with eggs (mixed), and the third with panko bread crumbs

9.

Season the pork with salt and pepper, then place it in the flour, shaking off any excess, dip the pork into the egg wash, then coat in the panko bread crumbs

11. Cook on low to medium heat for about 2 minutes, then flip the pork and repeat, baste with butter, then let rest for 4 minutes

Charred Radicchio 13. Submerge in cold water and dry using a salad spinner

1/5 cup blended oil 2/3 cup minced celery 2 tbsp fresh dill minced

Pork Collar

2 tbsp cornichons minced

2 tbsp fresh parsley minced 4 cups peeled & small diced yukon gold potatoes

all purpose flour as needed

Charred Radicchio

whole eggs as needed

1/2 head fresh radicchio

panko bread crumbs as needed neutral oil as needed

extra virgin olive oil as needed salt and pepper

Assembly 17. Place a little of the potato salad next to the pork and drizzle with the caper mustard aioli

14. Toss in a little olive oil, salt, and pepper 15. Heat 1 tbsp of olive oil in a sauté pan, sear the radicchio hard in the pan on high heat

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6 tbsp apple cider vinegar

16. Place the radicchio on the bottom of the plate, carefully lay the pork collar over top

12. Peel away the radicchio leaves

42

1/6 cup dijon mustard

1/2 cup blended oil

16 oz portioned pork collar

10. Heat a wide, shallow pan on medium heat, add oil to 1/4 of the way up, then let oil heat and add pork slowly

Apple Cider Vinaigrette Potato Salad

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JAMES TUCKEY SERVICE BAR AT MIDDLE WEST SPIRITS


TACOS

DE CARNITAS

INGREDIENTS 4 qts pork lard 35 lbs pork butt (shoulder), cut into 3-inch cubes 1 cup garlic 2 tbsp ground white pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

2 tbsp ground black pepper

1.

Heat pork lard to 350°F

6.

Add 6 bay leaves

2.

Blend garlic, white pepper, black pepper, oregano, salt, and canola oil until smooth

7.

Cook at a medium to low simmer, stirring occasionally, until the pork is fork tender and golden brown

3.

Cut pork butt into 3-inch cubes

8.

4.

Coat pork evenly with the blended seasoning

Remove pork with a perforated scoop or spider and allow excess lard to drain

5.

Carefully add seasoned pork to the hot lard

9.

2 tbsp dried oregano 6 tbsp salt 2 cups canola oil 6 bay leaves corn tortillas

Shred or chop the pork to the desired consistency

Assembly 10. Fill warmed corn tortillas with fresh carnitas 11. Garnish with chopped cilantro and diced onion 12. Serve with a lime wedge and a side of fresh tomatillo salsa

JULIO CESAR ANGEL DOS HERMANOS

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CUBAN PORK

INGREDIENTS 1/2 cup whole garlic cloves, peeled 2 tbsp ground cumin 2 tbsp ground black pepper 1/2 cup fresh oregano 3 cups fresh cilantro 6 blood oranges, juiced 6 limes, juiced 4 tbsp kosher salt 18 lbs bone-in pork shoulder

INSTRUCTIONS 1.

Combine all ingredients except the pork shoulder in a blender until smooth

2.

Place the pork shoulder in a deep full hotel pan and generously coat and massage the marinade over the entire surface of the pork shoulder, marinate for 12 hours or overnight

3.

Slow roast in a 300°F oven for approximately 4 hours, or until tender and the bone is easily removed

4.

Cool completely overnight before shredding and portioning

BEN PEREZ SYCAMORE

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PAN-ROASTED

PORK CHOP

INGREDIENTS 8 oz bone-in pork chop 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp cracked black pepper

Sherry Cream Sauce 1/4 oz butter 2 tbsp sherry 4 tbsp heavy cream 1/2 tsp Dijon mustard 2 tsp orange juice 1/4 tsp cracked black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS 1.

Coat the edge of the pork chop with Dijon mustard, roll the mustard-coated edge in cracked black pepper

4.

Add heavy cream, Dijon mustard, and orange juice, stirring to combine, bring the sauce to a simmer and add black pepper

2.

In a hot pan, sear the pork chop on both sides, transfer to the oven to finish cooking

5.

3.

Add butter to the pan and melt, add sherry to the butter and reduce slightly

Place the pork chop on a plate and top with sherry cream sauce, serve with smashed red potatoes and roasted Brussels sprouts

MYA GONSALVES NAPA KITCHEN & BAR WESTERVILLE

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PORK BELLY TACOS

INGREDIENTS Pork Belly Rub 1 bag of brown sugar 1/2 cup garlic powder 1/2 cup Kosher salt

INSTRUCTIONS

1/4 cup paprika

Pork Belly

Pickled Red Onion

1/4 cup five spice

1.

Gather all rub ingredients and mix together

9.

Jalapeño Aioli

2.

Score fat side of pork belly with a knife

3.

Flip over and rub dry rub all over, then flip it back over and rub the fat side (do fat side last!)

4.

Bake in the oven at 325 degrees for 1 hour (skin should be crispy!)

5.

Let cool & then slice

Jalapeño Aioli

46

1/4 cup black pepper

6.

Roast jalapeños (place on grill until charred, scrape off charred skin)

7.

Add to blender with all other ingredients

8.

Blend until well incorporated

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Combine seasonings and vinegar on the stove and heat until sugar and salt are dissolved

10. Transfer to a container and add onions to warm brine until fully cooled

3 tbsp lime juice 1/4 cup cilantro 2 tbsp Kosher salt

Assembly 11. Stuff warmed flour tortillas with one piece of sliced pork belly, pickled red onions, and queso fresco 12. Garnish with cilantro

MOLLY STOKES THE WOODBURY

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Pickled Red Onion 3 onions, thinly sliced 2 cups white vinegar 1/2 cup sugar 1 tbsp red pepper flakes 1 tbsp Kosher salt

1 tsp black pepper 8 cups mayonnaise 8 roasted jalapeños


CUBAN

PORK PIE

INGREDIENTS Pizza Dough 4.1 oz pizza cheese 1.5 oz caramelized onions 2.1 oz pineapple 1.2 oz jalapeños 3 oz pork 1.5 oz feta cheese 0.1 oz cilantro 0.6 oz crème fraîche

INSTRUCTIONS 1.

Stretch out the pizza dough

2.

Spread out the cheese

3.

Apply toppings one at a time

4.

Bake on a baking stone or your preferred method for baking pizza

5.

Finish with cilantro and crème fraîche

EDDIE MCKINNEY PIES & PINTS EASTON

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CARBONARA

INGREDIENTS 2 cups heavy cream 3 eggs 1/2 cup grated Parmesan salt and pepper to taste 4 egg yolks 24 oz cooked spaghetti

INSTRUCTIONS

8 oz Ohio pork belly, smoked and cured

1.

Whisk whole eggs in a large mixing bowl, drizzle in the heavy cream and whisk until incorporated

6.

Continuously move the pasta around in the pan for only one minute to avoid the sauce separating

2.

Fold in the Parmesan cheese to finish the sauce, set aside

7.

3.

Dice pork belly into medium cubes, fry or air-fry the pork belly until crispy, set aside

Immediately use tongs to swirl and coil the pasta into a nest on a shallow dinner bowl

8.

4.

Bring a small pot of water to a boil, add spaghetti to heat

5.

In a sauté pan, pour in the carbonara cream mixture over medium-low heat, quickly strain and add the hot noodles and pork to the sauté pan, season with salt and pepper

Place one egg yolk in the center of the pasta nest, shave Pecorino Romano over the dish, and garnish with micro arugula

JOSHUA COOK ASTERISK SUPPER CLUB

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4 oz Pecorino Romano micro arugula, for garnish


PORK

BURNT ENDS

INGREDIENTS Housemade Rub equal parts: smoked paprika garlic onion oregano brown sugar baking soda rosemary cumin chili powder cayenne pepper 8 lbs pork shoulder

INSTRUCTIONS 1.

Coat pork shoulder in housemade rub and smoke for 10 hours, then finish in the oven

2.

Cut pork into cubes and fry in a large skillet until crispy

3.

Toss fried pork cubes in barbecue sauce of choice

JOE RACCIO OHIO BREWING COMPANY

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FROM BASIC

TO BOUJEE. DISCOVER MORE


Where there’s

u

How one of the internet’s favorite chef duos, The Grill Dads, went from humble Ohio roots to superstardom, and back again By Jack McLaughlin Photos by Tommy Feisel Story Design by Julie Friedman

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←

The Grill Dads Ryan Fey (left) and Mark Anderson on Fey’s Canal Winchester farm

I

t’s January in Central Ohio. Nearly a foot of snow blankets Ryan Fey’s 10.5 acres of land in rural Canal Winchester, and temperatures hang in the single digits. Perfect weather for outdoor grilling, if you ask him. “As long as you can shovel your ass out to the grill, it just makes more sense,” he said with a laugh. “You have all that radiant heat, which is great in the cold weather.” Fey, alongside longtime best friend and Ohio State alumnus Mark Anderson, make up The Grill Dads, a locally-rooted culinary duo operating as content creators, entrepreneurs, and approachable parents who love food almost as much as their pithy brand of self-deprecating humor. And now, after decades in New York and Los Angeles, the pair has once again put down roots where it all began: here in Central Ohio.

Tasting Fame While the idea of grilling in the winter may be a hot take— literally—The Grill Dads have the experience to stand on in this arena. Fey estimates the two grill “at least 100 days” each year, likely more; they’ve done so in front of Food Network cameras, as Today Show guests more times than they can count, and across years of promotional events, serving up smash burgers and culinary burritos in just about every imaginable state of weather the world has to offer. In fact, according to Anderson, it’s actually the warmer months that typically create a more unfavorable grilling experience. “We did a Budweiser event at Stagecoach [a California music festival held in the Coachella Valley]. It was already hot and we were set up on the blacktop with a huge truck trailer behind us that was reflecting heat. It’s like 115 degrees and we’re standing in front of 500-degree grills with open flames,” he said. “I picked up a microphone for a second to go talk to the audio guy and get second-degree burns.” →

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“We figured out very quickly that winning our own show was the starting line, and not the

finish line at all.

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On another shoot, while the two were filming inside a very old (and very hot) building in the summer, a heat that was amplified by the crew and film equipment on site, Anderson unknowingly stepped on the floor above a steam pipe, melting the rubber sole of his shoe. “It was like stepping in gum,” he recalled with a laugh. “But it was my fucking shoe.” It hasn’t always been Budweiser promos and Today Show guest spots, though. Fey, a native of Fairfield County, Ohio, attended Ohio University and met Anderson—a native of upstate New York who attended Ohio State—through the Columbus music scene in the ‘90s. After college, Fey “fled” for New York City, and shortly after, Los Angeles. Anderson, who was serving as tour manager for big-name musicians like Maroon 5 and Courtney Love, would often stay with Fey while on tour or in the cities for business. The two always shared a love of food, often making elaborate dinners together. Soon, these dinners turned into bonafide events—including 60-person Thanksgiving feasts— and eventually a three-day L.A. pop-up, Ohio Chic, where they crafted elevated versions of comfort foods and Midwest staples for an L.A. audience. The three-day event sold out online in 15 minutes. At the time, Fey was working at Omelet, the high-profile L.A. ad agency he co-founded, but after more than a decade, as the business grew and his role became increasingly more managerial, he found his work no longer offered him the creative outlet he needed to thrive, and he left in 2017. With the help of Anderson’s wife, Sarah, the duo coldpitched a show called The Search for California Barbecue to former Double Dare host (IYKYK) turned Food Network producer Marc Summers. “I spent three days looking for his email address, and I finally found it,” Anderson said. “So I send him the email as I’m walking into a meeting. Our pitch was a three-minute video. Four minutes later, I get a call from a Burbank number, and I was like: ‘Holy shit. Marc Summers is calling.’” The duo regularly creates content for their YouTube recipe series from Fey’s farm property in Canal Winchester 54

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Summers liked what he saw and introduced the duo to Guy Fieri, who they still consider a close friend. After Guy’s Big Project (a competition-style reality show that would give the last team standing its own Food Network series) was greenlit in 2017, the two eventually signed onto the project, although they tempered their expectations, viewing it more as a fun experience than a fast-track to the limelight. “We’re not smart enough to be intimidated by [appearing on a major TV network], so we were mostly doing it for the hell of it. We thought it would be funny to tell people this was our midlife crisis,” Fey recalled. Naturally, they won. Their eponymous Food Network show, which debuted in December 2017, featured The Grill Dads traveling the country to uncover unique eats, and was billed by the network as the “ultimate dad food adventure.” The two quickly learned, however, that making a meaningful career out of this series alone likely wasn’t in the cards. “When the show first came out, we were ready for our social media to take off like a rocket ship. The next day, we had only gained 11 new followers on Instagram, and we even lost three on Facebook,” Anderson said with a laugh. “We figured out very quickly that winning our own show was the starting line, and not the finish line at all.” →

Their seasoned salt, Any Time, hits Home Depot shelves in late 2026

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Out of the Frying Pan Over the course of the next year, Anderson and Fey thought long and hard about what was best long-term for The Grill Dads brand, and, in 2019, they decided to set off on their own (although they would continue to appear as guests on a number of Food Network shows). The move, according to Fey, was both liberating and abjectly terrifying. “We’re just dumb enough to be like, well, fuck it, we’re gonna make it,” he said with a laugh. “We get called a lot of things, content creators, brand ambassadors, but at the end of the day we’re entrepreneurs. We found entrepreneurship is less about success and more about the amount of risk you can stomach.” But the leap paid off. Filled with instructional cooking content and restaurant spotlights, they’ve accrued nearly 1.5 million social media followers across all platforms, with over 500,000 on Instagram alone. And the brand deals—from Johnsonville, Budweiser, and many more— are, like the dishes they cook up, coming in hot. You’ll find them making everything from tomahawk steaks to butter chicken burritos in their longer-form recipe series. Anderson embraces this variety, and thrives on the process of creation, rather than the end result. “Before Fey and I used to cook for a living, we would go to the grocery store, we’d go right to the meat case. Literally zero idea what we were gonna make. And then something would just speak to me. That, to me, is what’s most fun and that’s still sort of how things are. It’s figuring things out, testing recipes, doing research on technical details,” Anderson said. “I always say that my favorite thing I’ve ever cooked is something that I haven’t made yet.” Like anyone who “makes it” as a content creator, The Grill Dads don’t have all the answers as to why the world has clung so fiercely to their dad jokes and unique brand of self-flagellating humor, but they have a few ideas.

“We found entrepreneurship is less about success and more about the amount of risk you can stomach.”

Anderson and Fey with Fey’s dogs Rambler, left, and Maple Butter Biscuit

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A part of it, Fey believes, was timing, as the duo was embracing outdoor cooking online while the whole world was stuck indoors, dreaming of getting out, streaming YouTube nonstop until the world reopened. The other key ingredient is approachability, both from a culinary perspective and a personal one. “We love cheffy-chefs and we love people that really understand gastronomy and food and all this stuff. We’re also the guys that want you to be able to get everything from Kroger, and to elevate that,” Fey said. “We also don’t wanna be representative of the knuckle dragging Neanderthal dude that some people associate with dads grilling, you know, the one who cracks a beer on his head. For us, it’s about the modern dad. It’s about different roles in the family. It’s about sharing responsibilities in a way that is organic to your family unit versus being contrived or cliché.”

The Second Course In late 2025, Fey relocated with Christy to a repurposed farm property in Canal Winchester. While Anderson lives with his family in Idaho, the two travel constantly, filming recipes together at the two locations when the other can get away for a stretch. Just like Fey’s physical address, The Grill Dads as creators have also come full circle, with a new show they feel fully at the helm of. Their six-episode TV series from Tastemade, Grillin’ After Dark, found a home on Netflix (in addition to Apple TV and other platforms), this summer. And there’s more where that came from Their cookbook, The Best Cookbook Ever Written by Two Idiots, is selling fast, and the two have even rolled out a line of Grill Dads-branded seasoned salt, Any Time. Set to land in “every Home Depot in North America” by the end of Q4 this year, the “unapologetically salt-forward” blend is “like Lawry’s, but if you want to highlight the ingredients you’re working with, not cover them up.” Any Time follows on the heels of Grill’n Time, their line of culinary canned cocktails, which is rolling onto Ohio shelves this fall, and is already available in Idaho, California, and (soon) Forth Worth. →

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“I always say that my

favorite thing I’ve ever cooked is something that I haven’t made yet.”

Fey relocated to his Canal Winchester farm property from Los Angeles last year, after growing up in Fairfield County

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Grill’n Time canned cocktails created by Anderson and Fey

Created because “all other canned cocktails taste like different varieties of the same exact thing,” Grill’n Time serves as an appropriate facsimile for the duo’s journey as a whole. The cocktail line, which Anderson admits is “not for everyone,” features culinary ingredient combinations like vodka and thyme, and tequila with blood orange and rosemary. Grill’n Time, like their content itself, prioritizes authenticity sometimes to a fault, but that’s not something the two are willing to compromise on. Plus, people seem to be drinking it up—quite literally—anyway. “I’m messing around with my best friend, traveling the world, we just happen to be able to monetize it,” Fey said. “This is us. We were pissed we couldn’t find any cocktails that didn’t give us raging hangovers, so we made ones we liked. You know, the food we make is our recipes, man. These are the things that we love to do.”

Home Cooking On a warm day in August, Ryan Fey sits in the dappled late-afternoon sunlight, while soybean fields—stirred by a light breeze—stretch as far as the eye can see. One of his two dogs—Rambler, who was adopted by him and his wife after the animal, a former stray, visited them during a blizzard last winter—sits quietly at his feet. If you would’ve asked him 20 years ago where he thought he would be at the age of 50, he probably would’ve told you anywhere other than where he is now. The Fairfield Union grad (Fey grew up in Pleasantville, approximately 20 minutes from his home today) and Ohio native returned to the Buckeye State three decades later to be closer to his family.

The Grill Dads released their own cookbook, which includes more than 60 recipes, in 2022

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But he can still recall the day he left. “I fled from here the day after I finished college. I went to New York City, determined to make a career there. My father dropped me off, he gave me a 20 spot and said, ‘At least get something to eat, man.’ He said, ‘Call me if you need me, call me, but I know you probably won’t.’” “Every single person who knew me growing up is in disbelief that I came back here,” he said. “I was angry, I was aggressive, I was condescending to the state of Ohio. And now it’s the opposite.” Now, Fey sees Columbus as a burgeoning city filled with things to do and—more importantly—great food to eat. If you spend more than a minute with him, you would also agree that the headspace of his angsty youth is long gone. Today, Fey boasts that rare kind of carry-the-room energy that people flock to. The ambition that carried him to the coasts hasn’t gone anywhere, though, and he has big plans for his Canal Winchester farm. Fey’s backyard boasts a top-of-the-line home setup, complete with built-in flat tops, every type of grill imaginable, and a custom production pergola, one that he built with friends over the course of three days. He envisions the property becoming a destination, complete with on-site cabins and off-road vehicles, allowing visitors to really sink their teeth into the land. “Our vision is to create an approachable culinary resort. People can come out here and learn how to cook, chef’s table-style. We’ll have some cabins, side-by-sides, everything will center around food, exploration, and complete and utter relaxation,” he said. While visitors in the future will be kicking their feet back, for today, Fey is on the move. You can smell the smoke from the grill as it catches the wind. He’s got food to make. An old friend to see. ♦ Check out The Grill Dads’ content on YouTube, TikTok, and Instagram, or visit thegrilldads.com to see original recipes and purchase their cookbook.

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Rotating pierogi specials weekly; patrons can build their own perfect plate from Tomatillo Chile Verde to Classic Potato Cheddar →

How former line cook Charlie Greene turned a pierogi pop-up into a Columbus institution, gathering fans like Weird Al and Guy Fieri along the way

PIEROGI

POWER!


↑ From left to right: Front of House Manager, Laney Spencer, Owner Charlie Greene, Kitchen Manager Bree Rieke

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By David Shaw Photos by Aaron Massey Story Design by Brooke Stanley

pening a full-service restaurant during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic serving food most people have encountered almost exclusively in the grocery store frozen food aisle may not be the most obvious route to success, but the recipe has worked for Pierogi Mountain, culminating in the restaurant’s 10th anniversary celebrated earlier this year. Owner and head chef Charlie Greene joined thenpartner Matt Majesky in 2016 after Majesky hosted a string of Pierogi Mountain pop-up events featuring the humble pierogi, a Polish staple that some oral traditions date at more than 800 years old. The first permanent home for the restaurant was Columbus dive bar and live music venue Cafe Bourbon Street before the duo expanded to a second location inside the now defunct Wunderbar in German Village in 2019. When the pandemic rendered bar-based tenant kitchens untenable due to gathering restrictions, both Pierogi Mountain locations closed, prompting Greene to pursue a standalone location at this time. Government loans distributed to support pandemic-affected businesses made such a move possible, and he found a perfect pairing in the former Grass Skirt Tiki Room location at 105 N. Grant Ave. in Downtown Columbus. “It’s really nice to be able to take control of the whole experience for the customers,” said Greene. “We wanted to be the neighborhood dive bar. That was what we were going for, that’s what we’re comfortable with. I don’t have any interest in cooking fancy, fussy little tasting menus for rich people, you know?” → 614NOW.COM FALL 2026

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Pierogi Mountain’s menu strategy is unique and dynamic, counting among its fans Weird Al Yankovic and the producers of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, who have visited the restaurant not once, but twice. How do you attract celebrities and a decade’s worth of hungry Columbusites with a signature item that, in its traditional preparation, is far from flashy, and often not the most visually appealing option? You walk on the wild side. Pierogi Mountain does include two staple varieties (potato cheddar and potato, sauerkraut, and mushroom), but it also offers a pair of rotating seasonal selections, and a set of small batch-style creations concocted by Greene and the rest of the Pierogi Mountain staff. Noteworthy past pierogi recipes include Tomatillo Chile Verde, Ghost Pepper Grits, Deep-Fried Grippo’s Barbecue, and a Cool Ranch-style pierogi encased in blue dough. In many instances, recipes are connected to childhood favorites of Greene and his staff, including a Maple Pumpkin Habanero variety that combined memories of pumpkin pies baked by his mom’s side of the family, maple syrup collected across generations on his dad’s side, and Greene’s own love of spicy food. “It is maple and pumpkin from (my family) and then habanero from me. I try to think about lineage like that because food is so connected to every part of our existence as people,” he said. “A lot of employee-centered ones that they bring up are foods from their childhood. So, I try to integrate all of that into what we put on the plate for our customers. It’s a little piece of us.” Vegan Mac and Cheese, topped with diced vegan kielbasa, fresh tomatoes, and green onions →

“We wanted to be the neighborhood dive bar.”


↑ Sausage Sandwich served on an Auddino's Italian Bakery toasted roll

The balance of the Pierogi Mountain menu is populated with pierogi-friendly accompaniments including sausage, schnitzel, and classic Hungarian Chicken Paprikash. Roughly half of the menu is vegan, an intentional choice by Greene to give meatless eaters the option to explore the ample menu. The Pierogi Mountain space carried over the Grass Skirt Tiki Room’s communal, dive bar-like vibe, a vibe that suits Greene’s desire to turn away from the “old guard” of restaurant culture and his experience as a line cook, heavy with back of house shouting and browbeating. To Greene, fully taking over Pierogi Mountain meant proving that a successful business can run on respect without sacrificing process or creativity. “I’m just a line cook who worked up through the ranks. I never thought I’d have an opportunity to have my own place like this,” Greene said. “I come from the old guard, like the bulldog shouting and yelling and throwing stuff. I really wanted a change in the industry. It doesn’t have to be the old macho, ‘How much abuse can you take?’ badge of honor situation. I think we really created that [change] here.” Greene’s formula to create a positive working environment includes a compensation structure that provides a fair living wage before tips to all employees and tip sharing across front and back of house to ensure total alignment to team and customer satisfaction. Pierogi Mountain is also a “High Road Employer” supporter of One Fair Wage, an advocacy group focused on improving working conditions for American service industry employees. “I just wanted to prove that you can have a successful and interesting restaurant with good food that treats its staff well, pays a living wage,” Greene said. “This is my love letter to the industry. I love this industry. I’ve learned so much and met so many amazing people. I’ve had so many great experiences and it’s noble work, hospitality.”♦

Pierogi Mountain’s noteworthy menu can be found at 105 N. Grant Ave., or available to order at www.pierogimountain.com.

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Burgers

BENCH THE

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Spiced arayes, charcoalgrilled shawarma, and fresh fattoush bring an entirely different game plan to the tailgate Story by Wayne Lewis Story Design by Abby Nocera

he beauty of sporting events is that anything can happen on any given day. Sure, there are favorites, and more often than not you get the expected outcome. But imagine how boring the game would be if the favorite won EVERY time. That’s how I think about food. I like a good hamburger, hot dog, and pasta salad as much as the next guy, but when it comes to game day food and tailgate parties, predictable can be boring sometimes. This tailgate spread is anything but boring. Is it more effort than throwing a store-bought burger or dog on the grill? Sure is. But the payoff is big flavors and a spread your guests will remember, even if the game is a dud. This is inspired by my love of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine—lots of fresh veggies and heavily spiced meats make the perfect duo. It also plays to my passion for cooking over live fire, as there is no substitute for the aroma and flavor of charred meats. Plus, you can always throw a few hot dogs on the grill for those picky-eater friends. The arayes are essentially a garlicky, herby, spiced burger in a pita (I do stuff my pitas much thicker than traditional arayes because I like the “burger vibe”), but feel free to make them thinner. They’ll be crispier that way. You can also make them as a quesadilla, sandwiched between two tortillas. Hint: Add some crumbled feta to the meat mix if you do it this way! It’s a bit easier to make, since pitas can be finicky to open cleanly. The chicken is a classic shawarma style: yogurt and spice marinated chicken thigh, skewered, and grilled over charcoal. The secret sauce for both meat options is a refreshing, mint tzatziki sauce that cuts through and balances the spice of the meats. The salad is bright and refreshing with great texture from the crispy fried pitas bits. It’s a bit different from the classic Greek-style salad, and has a few novel ingredients like sumac and pomegranate molasses. Totally worth a little exploring at your local international market. I added a bowl of spicy fried chickpeas for fun and some shatta (a spicy chili-based hot sauce) for added heat since, while full of aromatic spices, these recipes aren’t really “hot.” Except the chickpeas. Feel free to improvise and make these recipes your own. The point is to get outside your culinary comfort zone and try something new for your next tailgate party. A world of great food awaits! →

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Recipe SHAWARMA SPICE

TZATZIKI SAUCE

I know making yourself might seem like a bridge too far, so I won’t be insulted if you use store-bought. But let me tell you— the flavor of making your own is indescribably superior.

16 oz whole milk Greek yogurt 1/2 seedless cucumber 1 zest lemon 1 lemon, juiced 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp agave 3 tbsp fresh mint 1 garlic clove, grated 1 tsp salt

1/3 cup cumin seeds 1/3 cup coriander seeds 2 tbsp black peppercorns 1/3 cup paprika 2 tbsp turmeric 2 tbsp garlic, granulated 1 tbsp ground cardamom 1 tsp nutmeg Add whole spices (cumin, coriander, pepper) to frying pan over medium heat. Toast spices till aromatic and let them cool. Grind in spice grinder then combine with rest of spices.

CHICKEN MARINADE 1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 cup lemon juice 1 cup whole Greek yogurt 6 garlic cloves, chopped 1/4 cup shawarma spice 2 tbsp salt Handful of parsley stems Pulse all ingredients in a blender till smooth. Marinate sliced chicken pieces 3-4 hours before skewering.

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Shred cucumber with box grater over a clean towel. Wrap contents and drain about ½ of the liquid away. Add everything to a bowl, combine well and chill for at least 1 hour before serving. Easily made day ahead.

SPICY FRIED CHICKPEAS 3 cans chickpeas, drained 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) 2 tbsp Kashmiri chili powder 1 tbsp cumin 2 tsp garlic, granulated 1 tsp cayenne 1 tsp black pepper Salt to taste Heat large pan on MED HIGH heat, add EVOO and chickpeas, tossing frequently until starting to brown. Turn off heat. Add spices and toss well, cook another 1 min in pan. Marinate sliced chicken pieces 3-4 hours before skewering.


← Skewered shawarma-styled chicken paired with a refreshing, mint tzatziki sauce


FATTOUSH SALAD 1 whole romaine lettuce, chopped 1 seedless cucumber, quartered, sliced 5-6 fresh tomatoes, chopped small 4 green onions, whole, chopped 5-6 radishes, cleaned, thinly sliced 2 cups fresh parsley leaves, chopped 1 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped 2-3 pitas, broken into biteside pieces Bake pitas in oven or fry in extra vrigin olive oil until crispy (add just prior to serving)

SALAD DRESSING 1 lemon, zested and juiced 1/3 cup EVOO 1 tbsp pomegranate molasses or date syrup 1 tsp sumac, ground 1/2 tsp black pepper 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 tsp cinnamon Add to ball jar with lid and shake well until uniform. Chill at least 1 hour. Add dressing to salad and toss just before serving.

STEP BY STEP COOKING INSTRUCTIONS ARE AVAILABLE HERE: CHEF WAYNE LEWIS PUBLISHER, 614 MEDIA GROUP MASTERCHEF SEMIFINALIST

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UP IN

After the death of his father, Hoggy’s BBQ owner Kyle Turner ditched venture capitalism for brisket and woodsmoke to keep the family business alive

SMOKE By Melinda Green Photos by Tommy Feisel Story Design by Brooke Stanley

Traditional Pulled Pork Sandwich topped with Pimento Cheese →


← Hoggy's BBQ owner Kyle Tuner

K

yle Turner was on his way to be a venture capitalist—or so he thought. While he studied for an economics degree, he had no intention of returning to his hometown of Columbus and rebuilding the family barbecue business. But Columbus had other plans for him. During Kyle’s senior year in 2017, his father Mark Turner, co-owner of Hoggy’s Restaurant & Catering, was diagnosed with cancer. “I was actually leaving college to move to New York,” Turner recalled. “And then he was like, ‘My insurance is on this Hoggy’s. It’s not doing well and I need help.’” New York took a back seat, and the challenge that lay ahead for Kyle was significant, he admitted. “Every person, I think, leaves college thinking they know everything, and so I jumped into it, like he’s my dad and I wanted to help him. I didn’t know how to cook. I never ran a restaurant. And so for probably the first four years, I just kind of flew blind a little bit.” Coupled with the fact that Hoggy’s was hurting as a business, Kyle had a lot of learning to do—and fast. → 614NOW.COM FALL 2026

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“I think the one thing economics teaches you is that, like, you actually can’t know anything for sure because it’s not a real science,” he continued. “Honestly, I watched a bunch of YouTube videos, I read a bunch of books. I traveled to other barbecue restaurants to see what the best places were like. I would try to nag the people to see if they could tell me anything. I probably have a bunch of DMs to random pitmasters around America that never responded to me. And then just trial and error. “You leave college with a business degree, and you think business is done behind a laptop,” Kyle explained. “But you gotta do everything, working in the kitchen, working on the line every day, looking at the brisket or the pork and just saying, ‘Is this good? Is this bad? If it’s good, what did I do to make it good? If it’s bad, what did I do that it’s bad?’” Hoggy’s began in 1991 as a venture of Steak Escape founders Mark Turner and Ken Smith. Both restaurant chains had been very successful and then lost their way. Menu additions such as steak and shrimp buckets, even pizza, began to blur the line of Hoggy’s brand.

Hoggy’s features nine signature sauces to pair with your perfect BBQ ↓

↑ Garlic and Bacon Green Beans

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↑ General Tso’s Wings, marinated for 24 hours, smoked for three hours, then fried

“My main thing was always just, I want to make really good food. And I feel like that should be where restaurants start, is to make something that people want to eat. Hoggy’s had lost that. They wanted to be master of a lot.” By 2012, Hoggy’s was struggling and had begun prioritizing catering, Mark would make dozens, if not hundreds, of calls daily, as Kyle assumed a leadership position. By the time 2020 rolled around, Mark slowed and Kyle assumed all Hoggy’s operations. Since then he has been fully committed to making Hoggy’s remaining location on Bethel Road the city’s gold standard, starting with him becoming an integral part of the team. He recalled, “I grew up very privileged. My dad was successful. I went to Columbus Academy. I think being aware of that when you meet with people, especially staff at a restaurant, you shouldn’t walk in and be like, ‘I’m the owner’s son.’ I really wanted to be a part of the group. So I cleaned dishes, mopped floors. I had to earn their respect by just doing things and not passing the baton. If you’re in a trench with somebody, I want to be the person they want in with them, and I want to be the first person over the trench if something needs to happen.” →

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“I HAD TO EARN THEIR RESPECT BY JUST DOING THINGS AND NOT PASSING THE BATON. IF YOU’RE IN A TRENCH WITH SOMEBODY, I WANT TO BE THE PERSON THEY WANT IN WITH THEM.”

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Rather than fall-off-the-bone, Hoggy’s Applewood-Smoked Ribs are perfectly tender ↓

That dedication is paying off. They’ve taken the menu back to its barbecue roots and are constantly finding ways to improve while remaining affordable. Hoggy’s earned an Honorable Mention on Texas Monthly’s Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants Outside of Texas. Barbecue fans have come from as far as Atlanta and Canada just to get their fix. Plus, Kyle recently renovated the entire restaurant (just in time for it to be hit by a car for the second time in three years, in true Columbus fashion). And their candid social media presence is part of the revival push, which includes plenty of mouthwatering platters of pork, wings, and brisket, to be sure, but also videos of Kyle pulling back the curtain to discuss topics like selling out of food, and the reality behind bad reviews. “I never really wanted my face on social media,” he said. “But I knew we had to reach people in Columbus and let them know that we’re still here and we’re trying to improve. I wanted people to see the process of us actually making the food, because if you can see how it’s made, maybe you’ll make that recipe. But at the same time, you might just be like, ‘Oh, I just want to go try it.’ I feel like in the world of AI and all this content filth, if you can just be authentic with somebody and be a person, people like that better.

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↑ Whether it’s a Platter, Grazer, or Family Pack, Hoggy’s makes trying its barbecue simple


“I think it’s really funny that we have, like, hundreds of thousands of followers on social media, and I still get ‘I didn’t know you guys are still open.’ And it’s like, holy cow, what am I gonna have to do to get that out of people’s heads?” Since Mark’s passing last October, Kyle has stepped up with Steak Escape operations as well, noting that “We’re working on rebranding it and turning it around because it was kind of heading in the wrong direction.” So the growth continues. From economics student to restaurateur almost overnight, Kyle has loved the adventure. “Yeah, no, it’s fun. I mean, stress. I mean, restaurants are stressful. My hair is graying pretty consistently,” he said, laughing. And, rising to the challenges ahead, little by little, and maybe with a few new gray hairs, he’s bringing Hoggy’s back to the Columbus favorite it once was. ♦ To taste Turner’s hard work for yourself, Hoggy’s is located at 830 Bethel Rd., and is open daily from 8 a.m.-11 p.m.

← Kyle’s social media presence gives fans a behind-the-scenes taste of Hoggy’s BBQ

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THE

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DEBATE A Matt Mahoney’s love for steamed buns has taken him on a quest to find the best dumpling in Columbus


Story by Matt Mahoney Photos by Aaron Massey Story Design by Abby Nocera

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or much of human history, man and manlike beings were reduced to an undignified position of eating food “as is.” We’re talking level-one food here folks: You see an apple, you eat an apple. You see a deer, you kill the deer, you eat the deer. There isn’t much difficulty in consuming food this way, but there isn’t much excitement there either; and so as we left apedom and proceeded into humanity, we began to seek other options. You can debate the use of fire in cooking and all sorts of other things, but in my book, the real advancements in the culinary world did not begin to take place until we started to put food inside of other food. Corn dogs, chicken Kiev, stuffed crust pizza, the Oreo, the burrito, even a turducken if you want to get really weird with it. And there’s one particular foodwithin-a-food dish that can be found in all corners of the globe: the dumpling. The Japanese call them “gyoza,” while the Koreans use “mandu,” and depending on exactly where you are in China you may hear names like “guōtiē” or “jiaozi.” I simply call them “delicious.” Through meticulous research, we’ve nailed down what many believe to be the best dumplings in the Arch City, and yours truly is ready to eat his way through them all.

TY GINGER

5689 Woerner Temple Rd., Dublin As I pull a dumpling out of its styrofoam container, I notice small imperfections along the seam that I take as a suggestion that these may have been made by hand. The dumplings are of a decent size with a chewy steamed wrapper. Although the texture was spot-on snappy, the pork mix inside was a bit mild for my tastes. A quick dip in what I would describe as a “soy-based sauce with an umami kick” proved to be a great solution to this issue, leaving me satisfied and yet still hungry.

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JIU THAI ASIAN CAFE

HELEN’S ASIAN KITCHEN

These were likely the smallest dumplings I had all day, and were served with little more than a thimble of an admittedly yummy soy-variation. For what it’s worth, my partner went nuts for the leftovers, so maybe it’s a me thing. If nothing else, it did leave me wanting more (which I soon got).

With a distinct, thicker wrapper and a heavy concentration of vegetables, this too was a unique spin unlike the others I tried. The pasty wrapper and vegetables within created a wonderful soft-firm texture contrast, although the pork itself wasn’t anything particularly special. There was also no dipping sauce which I consider to be an essential for stuff like this, and so with my hunger not yet satisfied, I continued to search.

787 Bethel Rd.

1070 E. Dublin Granville Rd.

DRAGON LAND 1093 Worthington Woods Blvd.

Big boys coming through! I was first struck by the sheer size of these lil fellas, perhaps double the volume of anything else I enjoyed that day. This comes partially as a result of the thick, doughy wrapper with the forked crimps around the edges hinting at handmade origins. The filling was less like sausage (snappy, dense) as one normally expects here and more like a meatball (airy, fineminced). Likewise, the thin, dark brown sauce was delicious, with floating bits of green onion providing some visual and culinary contrast. Good luck getting one of these down in one bite. Still, this unique spin on a classic recipe may just have been my favorite bite of the day.

DIM SUM ASIAN BISTRO 775 Yard St., Ste. 190

As I dug in to these dumplings, I started to develop a sort of déjà vu. Fearing I may be in the matrix about to face my ultimate demise, I thought for a moment, and realized these dumplings looked incredibly similar to those from Ty Ginger. I later learned both eateries share the same owner, which is a good point to consider when you inevitably launch your own Columbus dumpling tasting tour after reading this. Does that mean they’re identical? Who’s to say? It does mean, like their counterparts at Ty Ginger, that these dumplings are pretty dang good.

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COCO’S GRILL 845 W 5th Ave.

While relatively similar to Ty Ginger in form and size, the true beauty of the CoCo’s dumpling lay hidden inside. Featuring a savory mix of pork and vegetables, this may well have been my favorite filling of the day. The soy-based sauce had a certain tang to it that really got the flavors to pop. Much like CoCo’s itself, it may not look like much on the outside, but wonderful secrets lie within.

FINAL NOTES You’ll notice I didn’t include any scores or grades for these dumplings, and for good reason. All of them—I believe— have something to offer. This should be read as an exploration of the best dumplings according to Matt Mahoney, as even sharing the leftovers resulted in some differences of opinion. Whatever the locale may be, steamed pork dumplings like the ones I discussed here can produce some surprising contrast between themselves when compared. What’s the best steamed pork dumpling in Columbus? Well, that depends mostly on who you ask.


Meet your new favorite bakery.

Discover family-recipe cachitos, Latin pastries, and fresh coffee—baked fresh and served daily. 8675 Sancus Blvd, Columbus, OH 43240

(614) 505-0055

@valenciabakerycbus


Dogs. Cats. Horses. Farm animals. Around here, we provide every animal we treat with the best, most advanced care possible. Backed by cutting-edge research, state-of-the-art diagnostics, and dozens of board-certified specialists, we deliver complete, compassionate care for animals of every kind. Yes, even cats.

“They provide the absolute highest level of care for all animals. Yeah. Even cats.”

6 CONVENIENT LOCATIONS ACROSS

CARING. DOWN TO A SCIENCE. vmc.vet.osu.edu

CENTRAL OHIO. SCAN THE QR CODE TO LEARN MORE.


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