BEST BITES

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A Slice Of The Big Apple

The Greenwich’s blistered sourdough pizzas and family-style plates are a refined ode to NYC.

This seasonal pepper pizza will appear on the Greenwich’s menu in July.

Walking into the Greenwich—a nine-month-old spot in RiNo—feels a little like stepping into the eponymous New York City neighborhood restaurateur Delores Tronco called home before relocating to Colorado in 2021. Inside, the walls are studded with mementos of Tronco’s past life, including pen-and-ink prints of the Manhattan skyline by artist Pat Vale and images taken by the late, legendary street photographer Ricky Powell, who is also immortalized in a mural by Denver’s Austin Zucchini-Fowler that frames the restaurant’s alleyway entrance. To execute a menu of polished, made-for-sharing bistro fare, Tronco persuaded chef Justin Freeman to move his family from Brooklyn to the Mile High City this past summer. Dishes such as hamachi tartare with mango and lemon curd and anchovy- and garlic-rubbed steak complement a lineup of pizzas that are a hybrid of Neapolitan and New York styles. The fluffy, wood-oven-fired wonders are crafted with a nearly six-year-old sourdough starter Freeman transported to Denver “in a 22-quart Cambro [container], between my legs in the car with a two-year-old and a puppy,” he says. Order the pie crowned with a mix of locally grown peppers, grana Padano and pecorino cheeses, chile flakes, and herbs for a perfect blend of Freeman’s flair and Centennial State flavor. —PATRICIA KAOWTHUMRONG