November 2023 48° North - Digital

36 HAIDA GWAII TO TOFINO

40 SAILING WITH STRANGERS

NOVEMBER 2023

28 THE EDGE OF THE INSIDE PASSAGE

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FEATURES Mischief on the Edge

Exploring extraordinarily remote corners of the Inside Passage.

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34

48° North Boat Test: Jeanneau 380 Performance A comfortable cruising boat with impressive sailing attributes.

By Joe Cline

36

Dancing Bear Magic

Winds, seas, and learning on passage from Haida Gwaii to Tofino.

By Jennifer Dalton

40

Sailing with Strangers

Finding voyaging experiences on other people’s boats.

By Paul Mais

18

COLUMNS Casting Off: The Better Part of Valor

Dealing with challenges before they become catastrophes.

By David Casey

22

Diesel Deep Dive: Common DIY Mistakes

Self-sufficiency is awesome, but there are potential pitfalls.

By Meredith Anderson

24

A Northwest Sailor Navigates the Past

Rich traditions and Northwest presence at Fastnet and Cowes.

By Lisa Mighetto

44

RACING Duck Dodge’s Rum Run

46

Fall Fun at PSSC: Small and Big Boats

48

Race Your House

Absolutely perfect conditions for the fall event and raft-up.

Two weekends and hundreds of sailors across 14 classes.

One of the PNW’s most unique races again brings big smiles.

ON THE COVER: Rising Sun, a Yamaha 36 sailed by Bradford Lewis and Dawn Perle, enjoying a lovely autumn day with a perfect PNW backdrop on the way to Port Madison during Rum Run (page 44). Photo by Chris Webb.

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Background photo courtesy of Joe Cline.

CONTENTS

By Michael Boyd

NOVEMBER 2023

6

Editor LEAN INTO THE SEASON

As boatfolk in the Pacific Northwest, we seldom forget that we can pursue our passion for being on the water year-round. We gear up to enable happier offseason cruising — installing heaters, investing in full-cockpit enclosures, procuring everbigger thermoses for hot beverages, and buying top-quality foulies. Moorage bills definitely don’t take the winter off, do they? As I and so many others may attest, enjoying a wintertide boat ride can be incredibly rewarding.

The ability to use our boats throughout the year is something we shouldn’t take for granted, but it is not without its own unique burden. Boat owners often feel guilty about how little they go sailing through these coldest, wettest, darkest months. I’m not sure who needs to hear this, but it’s ok. It’s ok. We do this for fun, and if it’s not fun for you, your boat will understand.

As we turn the page to another November, I’m reminded that seasons are both inevitable and open to broad interpretation. What sailor doesn’t recognize the numerous elements that are completely out of our control and influence our on-thewater experiences? On the other hand, season is not a simple concept. If you’re an Inside Passage cruiser, it is likely that your ‘season’ has already been over for weeks or even months. If you’re a local racer, you’re still in the thick of your busiest season, as you probably raced multiple weekends in October and are presently gearing up for one of the PNW’s great sailing get-togethers — Round the County — in a couple of weeks. If you’re a cruiser looking for solitude in our nearby waters and anchorages, your season is just beginning. And yes, if you’re the average fair-weather weekender, you might be thinking more about ski season right now. All of these seasons interpret the realities of the conditions differently. You’re all correct. It’s all good.

As ever, the key to good experiences when sailing or cruising at this time of year is flexibility and adaptability. Boaters tend to write their plans in pencil, and this is never more true than in the winter. Summertime fog might delay you and require special navigational equipment, but a proper winter gale almost certainly means you’re not going out. I encourage you to lean into the season by giving yourself permission — stay an extra day at that anchorage or guest moorage slip to wait out the weather, or just because; cut your daysail short and still consider it a success; see the breeze pushing 30 and head out to practice heavy air techniques (be safe and smart, please).

Or don’t go out, but go “check on the boat.”

There’s a bit of magic in the winter moments on the boat when you know you’re not casting off your lines. Lots of folks will be doing projects on their boats and, if that’s your version of leaning into the season, get after it. But even if you’re not channeling your inner DIYer this winter, don’t miss the chance to stroll down to the docks, greet your neighbors, and hide away for a few quiet hours to reconnect with your boat and your boat-self. Build your boat library, or better yet, actually read what’s already there. Break out the charts and plan a trip, make a cup of something hot in the galley, maybe let the gentle rocking give you the best winter’s nap. Or, just futz about. How wonderful! Before you leave, look in the bilge, and secure the dock lines and fenders — your true purpose was to “check on the boat” right?

Stay warm. Or, stay safe while you get good and cold. Either way, have fun! ‘Tis the season.

Volume XLIII, Number 4, November 2023 (206) 789-7350 info@48north.com | www.48north.com

Publisher Northwest Maritime Center Managing Editor Joe Cline joe@48north.com Editor Andy Cross andy@48north.com Designer Rainier Powers rainier@48north.com Advertising Sales Kachele Yelaca kachele@48north.com Classifieds classads48@48north.com Photographer Jan Anderson 48° North is published as a project of the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, WA – a 501(c)3 non-profit organization whose mission is to engage and educate people of all generations in traditional and contemporary maritime life, in a spirit of adventure and discovery.

Northwest Maritime Center: 431 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368 (360) 385-3628 48° North encourages letters, photographs, manuscripts, burgees, and bribes. Emailed manuscripts and high quality digital images are best!

We are not responsible for unsolicited materials.

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NOVEMBER 2023

News from the Northwest Maritime Center >> 48° North has been published by the Northwest Maritime Center (NWMC) since 2018. We are continually amazed and inspired by the important work of our colleagues and organization, and dedicate this page to sharing more about these activities with you.

48° North is part of something bigger, and we believe the mission-minded efforts of our organization matter to our readers.

MARITIME EDUCATION TAKES MANY FORMS AT NWMC, INCLUDING TRAINING FOR PROFESSIONALS ON A PILOT SIMULATOR One of the most impressive things about an organization like the Northwest Maritime Center is the way there's always something to discover about the opportunities it provides.

Amidst the breathtaking array of educational courses, camps, and school programs, one could be forgiven for losing sight of the fact that NWMC is also home to a state-of-the-art Pilot Simulator. This 120-degree, plasma-screen simulator is used for training and practice for marine harbor pilot candidates wishing to prepare for any of the west coast pilot association practical exams. Students coming in to train on the simulator need an approved operator/trainer with them, and NWMC most often connects candidates with retired ship captain and instructor, Bob Febos.

This is one of the amazing ways that NWMC truly practices what it preaches. Especially as more vocational maritime education programs exist — Maritme High School, Real World Readiness, and Port Townsend Maritime Academy within the organization, as well as numerous others around the region — there is universal recognition of the need to illuminate and strengthen the pathway from interest in

maritime to employment in the maritime industry. NWMC's pilot simulator further facilitates these pathways, inviting prospective professionals to not only begin their careers, but advance and enrich them.

While this page often invites the readers to take action — join a race, come to the Wooden Boat Festival, take a boatbuilding class — the intent here is just to highlight the breadth and depth of the opportunity, the commitment, and the knowledge shared and developed within the walls and bounds of the Northwest Maritime Center. And obviously, if you know any aspiring pilots, be sure they know they can book time on the simulator with a professional instructor. » www.nwmaritime.org/programs/adult-programs

EVENTS CALENDAR » www.nwmaritime.org/events TIDES AND CURRENTS IN THE SALISH SEA Nov 7-8, 2023 Online Class

RACE TO ALASKA TAILGATE PARTY Feb 3, 2024 Seattle Location TBD

DECK THE HULLS WITH BOATSHOP OFFCUTS Dec 9, 2023 NWMC Boatshop

DONATE YOUR BOAT TO SUPPORT NWMC PROGRAMS Beyond the hands-on skills of sailing and woodworking, when you donate your boat you are helping create the building blocks of what we all hope to see in the world: Courage.

Empathy. Resilience. NWMC seeks contributions of vessels in excellent condition with a market value of more than $10,000 to resell for its fundraising purposes. NWMC is not currently seeking vessels for use in its educational programs.

Your tax deductible boat donation would support the mission, programs, and activities of this important organization. » www.nwmaritime.org/take-action/donate-your-boat

CALLING ALL ARTISTS - WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL SEEKS POSTER ARTIST ENTRIES FOR 2024 Each year, the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival attracts more than 30,000 people from across the country. One of the ways the Festival is marketed and commemorated is with the annual poster artwork, which can be found not only on posters, but other marketing materials, the Festival program, and lots of snazzy merchandise. NWMC is welcoming submissions for artists to be considered for the coming year's poster art. Lots more details and an artist's brief can be found here: » www.woodenboat.org/poster-artist-entry

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NOVEMBER 2023

10 All the Power You Need

LETTERS Some Personal Experiences with CBP Roam App

Hi Joe, I cannot login to the CBP Roam app from my Android phone when I try to clear US Customs and am wondering whether others are having this problem?

I have been using CBP Roam successfully for years as I travel between homes on Lopez Island in the San Juans and Saltspring Island in the Gulf Islands. As a NEXUS pass holder, it was a simple matter to fill out the form and get cleared into the States without having to stop at the dock — until the beginning of September 2023.

Since then, the app allows me to enter my username and password, sends me a security code and I enter that. From there, I see a message saying the authorization code is being exchanged and then I get the terms and conditions page where I can accept and continue to try to log in again. After one or two such ‘roundtrips’, the app keeps crashing.

In early September, a Customs Agent at Friday Harbor told me there had been an upgrade and to use my Apple phone as there were problems with the Android version. I don’t have an iPhone, so went to Friday Harbor. In early October, after CBP Roam failed again, I called the Small Boat Reporting number and was able to clear using that. Yesterday, CBP Roam failed again, and when I called the Small Boat Reporting number, a message told me the service has been discontinued. So I called the Friday Harbor Customs Office. The Agent there cleared me in, advised me to uninstall/reinstall CBP Roam. I did that multiple times, also cleared application cache and data. Still can’t log in. I wanted to alert other Android phone users of the potential problem.

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Hello 48° North,

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I just read your article about using this app coming in to Roche Harbor. I have not had the same experience. The app uses login.gov for it’s entry login. The link between the app and login.gov is broken. I was unable to log in to my CBP Roam account. Each time I submit the authentication code I am returned to the login page. The iPads in the hut use a guest entry version of the app. The joy of entry while in the boat is gone. I tried to ask the officer at Friday Harbor for help.

His reply was that they just check people in, I’ll have to look elsewhere. There doesn’t seem to be an elsewhere. I’m hoping you can help, or at least let other readers know that we didn’t have an easy experience using the app.

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NOVEMBER 2023

low tides » News & Events OREGON'S OLDEST YACHT CLUB COMMEMORATES 115 YEARS Portland Yacht Club (PYC) celebrated a milestone anniversary with a birthday party on October 15, 2023.

The organization started as the vision of four men, and now hosts over 430 memberships, with a mix of power boaters, sailors, and social members, all sharing a mutual desire of being on or near the water. Since its inception, club members have stepped up with their time, skills, and wallets to contribute to over a century of camaraderie.

Portland Yacht Club began as the Willamette Motor Boat Club in 1908, founded by racing enthusiasts on the Willamette River. In the club's first year, the city of Portland was only 57 years old, with a population of 200,000 residents. After the cancellation of their lease in 1926, the clubhouse and accompanying moorage were towed 25 miles upriver to the current location on the Columbia River. "We owe a great amount of debt to our founders, especially George Kelly," said Nancy MacGregor, PYC Historian and 2012 Commodore.

"He had the foresight to secure our prime location and build financial stability."

George Kelly served as the club's first Commodore. Following the relocation, some members campaigned for the club to move back to the Willamette River on Swan Island, an area of Portland presently occupied by industrial facilities, warehouses, and maritime-focused businesses. "Due to the geography of the Swan Island location, it was unsuitable conditions for sailboats," remarked MacGregor.

The 2023 Commodore, Tim Carman, has embraced the mantra "Look to the Future, Treasure the Past." In that spirit, he has inquired with the National Park Service for the clubhouse to be recognized by the National Register of Historic Places.

"When you approach any anniversary of this club, you need to

examine our significance in the community," said Commodore Carman. "PYC is immersed in Northwest maritime history, and we have remained a constant presence in Portland history."

Club directories of the early years boasted notable Oregon names including philanthropist Thomas J. Autzen, former governor Julius L. Meier, and politician Henry L. Corbett. In 1948, PYC was at the frontlines during the great Columbia River Flood. Members sprang into action to install sandbags to hold off the rising river, and boats from the club fleet were commissioned by the Coast Guard for patrol duties.

The clubhouse's cupola has adorned PYC's clubhouses since 1931, and it is the oldest architectural feature of their Columbia River property. The club's member-led House & Grounds Committee is leading the future restoration project to maintain the cupola's structural integrity and historical significance. » www.portlandyc.com

EVERETT SEA SCOUTS GIVE BACK AFTER OCTOBER EARTHQUAKE DRILL question to the Skipper: “Can this generator be used to provide emergency power to the public after an earthquake?”

Inspired by this question, Sea Scout Ship 226 has now taken on a new role in the community — providing emergency power during extended electrical outages. This initiative is their way of expressing gratitude to the community that has continuously supported their youth-focused programs, including teaching sailing, personal growth, and leadership skills.

In light of Washington State’s transition towards an allelectric vehicle landscape, Sea Scout Ship 226 has a vision of offering an emergency charging station, free of charge to the public during extended power outages, whether they result from an earthquake, tsunami, or a Pacific Northwest storm.

To realize this goal, the Sea Scouts are reaching out to the public, Tesla, and potential electrical contractors for assistance in acquiring a universal electric vehicle charging station.

Sea Scout Ship 226 is not only “Always Prepared” but is also exemplifying the spirit of giving back to the community in their own unique and indispensable way. » www.gofundme.com/f/puget-sound-coastal-cleanup

With a motto of "Always Prepared", the Sea Scout Ship 226 in Everett, Washington, showed their readiness by conducting an earthquake preparedness drill in October at the Port of Everett Marina. The significance of this drill goes far beyond just practicing safety protocols.

These Sea Scouts recently received an old Army Surplus generator, which they have been using for hands-on training in diesel engine maintenance and repair. What began as a means to teach mechanical and electrical skills has evolved into a community project. Sea Scout Henry, who was completing his Diesel Maintenance 101 certification, posed a critical 48º NORTH

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NOVEMBER 2023

low tides » News & Events MOHAI TO OPEN 'PULLING TOGETHER' EXHIBIT ABOUT THE HISTORY OF ROWING IN SEATTLE ON NOVEMBER 24, 2023 In late November, Seattle's Museum of History and Industry (MOHAI) will open a new exhibit that is sure to be of interest to boatfolk in the broadest definition. Coinciding with the release of George Clooney's feature film adaptation of Daniel James Brown's smash hit book, Boys in the Boat, MOHAI's new exhibit offers a brief history of rowing in Seattle.

Central to the exhibit will of course be the University of Washington rowing team featured in Boys in the Boat that went to the 1936 Olympics in Berlin to compete in the Men's Eight, where they shocked the world with their upset win. With a selection of rare artifacts and photographs, MOHAIs exhibit invites visitors to learn more about the 1936 gold medal winning team, the legacy of the Pococks and their renowned rowing shells, the broader legacy of University of Washington's men's and women's rowing programs, and other aspects of the sport's history in our region. You're sure to leave with an appreciation for what MOHAI describes as the way "rowing has united the city around shared values of teamwork, inclusion, and connected us to the world beyond."

To celebrate and promote the new exhibit, MOHAI collaborated with numerous partner organizations to invite current University of Washington rowers to don attire similar to

that which the '36 team wore and row the Pocock-built rowing shell, Husky Challenger (which happens to be owned by the Northwest Maritime Center), across Lake Union to MOHAI where the shell will be a part of the exhibit. It's hard for anyone who is familiar with the story not to be stirred by the sight.

The new exhibit is not to be missed by anyone who appreciates rowing, PNW maritime history, or the story of Boys in the Boat. » www.mohai.org/ exhibits/pulling-togethera-brief-history-of-rowingin-seattle Images courtesy of MOHAI.

SLOOP TAVERN YACHT CLUB ANNOUNCES NEW BOXING DAY RACE

LOCAL MARINE BUSINESSES CONTRIBUTE TO MAUI FIRE RELIEF

Honestly, adding new races to the Puget Sound regatta calendar can feel like adding throw pillows to your pocket cruiser — nice, but not necessary and there’s probably not room.

However! Sloop Tavern Yacht Club (STYC) has found a lovely spot to nestle in a new event that fits perfectly. Weeks from any other major event, and on a day when many will be on holiday, STYC is giving you a chance to shake off your yuletide stupor with a rollicking, if bracing, December 26 event.

The race team at Sloop Tavern Yacht Club is excited to introduce a brand new race on Boxing Day! It will be a casual, take-yourtime race that relies on the honor system. Watch the start of the illustrious Sydney Hobart on December 25 (December 26th on that side of the world), get super inspired, then come out for the STYC version of a Boxing Day race on the 26th! 100% less press coverage, same amount of fun!

First warning is a civilized 12:55 p.m. just outside of Seattle’s Shilshole Bay Marina. Racing will use the PHRF-NW handicap, and there'll be no committee boat or awards. Just come sailing! » www.styc.org

In the months since fires devastated the island of Maui, marine businesses in the Seattle area have recognized the need and stepped up to offer support to organizations delivering aid.

As first reported by our friend Kurt Hoehne at his website sailish.com, "In a world where return-on-investment is gospel, the real long term return-on-investment, supporting the communities we live in and share our passion with, is too often lost. The Seattle boatyard CSR chose to use the funds it earmarked for the 2024 Vic-Maui race for helping rebuild Maui..."

CSR’s Nigel Barron said, "CSR would like to direct our funds to the [Lahaina Yacht Club] Rebuild Fund. Throughout the years of sponsoring or competing in the Vic Maui race we’ve always been struck by the hospitality of the people of Hawaii and our friends at LYC. A hui hou, mahalo!”

In a similar vein, at its annual Beneteau Rendezvous, Seattle's Signature Yachts was inspired to raise funds to support the Maui Strong Fund. Impressively, attendees and sponsoring businesses contributed more than $14,000 in one evening. » www.csrmarine.com | www.signature-yachts.com

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NOVEMBER 2023

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low tides » In the Biz...

AUTUMN EXCURSION ON ASPEN'S NEW CARBON CAT DINGHIES Would you take your dinghy on a 150-mile Puget Sound cruise in late September? Family-owned local boat builders, Aspen Power Catamarans, recently launched a new line of carbon fiber tenders and took them on an autumn adventure.

Aspen Power Catamarans owner and founder, Larry Graf, says “I try to invent something every year.” Last year, his inventive inspiration led him to a new dinghy design after he got tired of his leaky inflatable tender’s fragility around barnacles, oysters, and sharp rocks in Desolation Sound. Like Aspen’s other designs, there’s ingenuity aplenty and deep detail in every aspect of the carbon tenders. When something this unique and this local comes on the market, it deserves a closer look, and their autumn excursion provided such an opportunity.

Graf and his dog Daisy took a 10-foot Carbon Cat dinghy with a 9.9 horsepower outboard on a multi-day cruise around Puget Sound, accompanied by a friend on an 11-foot version of the tender and another pal driving a larger Aspen catamaran to take photos and give the crew a place to sleep. They left from Anacortes, crossed the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and passed Port Townsend in a building wind-against-tide washing machine.

They stayed in Port Ludlow, then continued on for a night at Blake Island. The little flotilla made a long run all the way from Blake Island back to Anacortes via the Swinomish Channel.

Along the way, the dinghies showed themselves to be fast, comfortable, fun, and capable. The tenders were safely driven in 4-foot following seas near Meadow Point, and stayed impressively dry as they worked upwind in 10-12 knot breeze and 2-foot wind waves. Graf said more than halfway into the cruise, reflecting on the dinghy’s design and performance, “It’s not your average tender.”

And their performance is, indeed, impressive. On the autumn cruise, the top speed for the 10-footer (9.9hp outboard) with one person and a dog was 18.25 knots; for the 11-footer (15hp outboard) with one person, it was 20.85 knots. Throughout the cruise, influenced by heavier-than-expected conditions, they mainly traveled at 10-13 knots. More important than the performance, however, was the way the dinghies felt comfortable and dry in those conditions.

Safety is hardly an afterthought, either. There are three water-tight compartments in each dinghy design, which may be opened and sponged out if necessary. With their carbon fiber construction, the boats have extraordinary strengthto-weight. The 10-footer weighs 173 pounds all-in without the motor, which isn’t featherweight compared to some competitors, but it is very lightweight for how stoutly built it is. Pound-for-pound, the Carbon Cat dinghies offer something intended to last much longer and perform much better than other tender options.

In the end, is it fair to call this fall dinghy cruise a marketing stunt? Sure, but what a fun and impressive one it was, and a great way to show off a remarkable local product. » www.aspenpowercatamarans.com

The Carbon Cat Dinghies The Carbon Cat dinghies come in 9-, 10-, and 11-foot versions, and are primarily built of hand-laid carbon fiber over computer-cut divinycell foam. They look like a monohull in front, but the underbody separates into catamaran hulls aft, adding stability underway and alongside a boat or dock.

They have a deep forefoot and a plumb bow, which improves performance.

MARINE SERVICENTER IS APPOINTED CATALINA AND TRUE NORTH DEALER FOR PACIFIC NORTHWEST “We are thrilled for this opportunity to represent such an iconic brand in the PNW and can’t wait to kick off our first Catalina Owners Rendezvous summer of 2024,” said Dan Krier, Vice President for Marine Servicenter. Dan went on to say, “The build quality of Catalina Yachts and True North, and the fact they are made in the USA, was a big part of our decision to become part of the Catalina/True North family.”

Look for new Catalina models to be arriving at Marine Servicenter for the Seattle Boat Show February 2024. Until then, Marine Servicenter is available to handle any Catalina/ True North parts requests and share information on any models. » www.marinesc.com

Catalina Yachts, the American builder of sailboats ranging in size from 12 feet to 45 feet, is pleased to announce the appointment of Marine Servicenter as their Pacific Northwest Dealer for Catalina Sailboats and True North Powerboats. “With the strong track record of Marine Servicenter boat sales and top notch after-sales customer care in the Pacific Northwest, this was an easy decision for us,” said Patrick Turner, head of Sales for Catalina/True North. Sharon Day, President of Catalina/ True North stated “Marine Servicenter’s long history in the PNW and their commitment to owners' events and after-sales owners' support fits well with our 'family' way of business and taking care of our loyal Catalina owners on a regional level.”

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NOVEMBER 2023

low tides » Boat Books ENC ESSENTIALS: GETTING STARTED WITH ELECTRONIC NAVIGATIONAL CHARTS » BY DAVID BURCH But ENC look different and are structured differently than paper charts. The safe use of ENC requires new knowledge on charts and chart reading.

This booklet is a quick guide on how to use these powerful electronic charts, which will very shortly be what we mean when we say “nautical chart.”

48° North Editor, Joe Cline, has this to say of ENC Essentials. "This is going

By the end of 2024, electronic navigational charts (ENC) are projected to be the only official NOAA charts, and all traditional paper charts will have been discontinued. These charts are being replaced by new (reschemed) versions of electronic navigational charts (ENC) that have been in use for over 15 years in ocean shipping, but have not been used much by recreational and other commercial mariners.

As of October, 2023, over 60% of all paper charts have been permanently removed, and hundreds of new ENC have replaced them, and NOAA is on schedule to remove the remainder as promised.

ENC contain much more information than paper charts do, they are easier to keep up to date, and they add notable safety features to navigation — each chart is a dynamic prescription for drawing the chart that knows where all hazards lie, and therefore our electronic chart system (ECS) in use can warn us of their approach.

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to be a very helpful companion for anyone trying to better understand the transition away from paper charts and how to make the most informed, efficient use of the soon-to-beubiquitous ENC technology. Most cruisers will be surprised by the range of functionalities found in ENC, and David Burch is the ideal local expert to help us understand them." » $19.95, www.starpath.com

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NOVEMBER 2023

low tides » Products News » MUSTANG MIT 150 CONVERTIBLE PFD

Mustang Survival’s new MIT 150 Convertible A/M Inflatable PFD is the sole Type II in the successful MIT range. It offers unmatched buoyancy, turning capability, and airway protection and seamlessly switches between manual and automatic inflation modes for versatility in any activity or conditions. Mustang’s exclusive Membrane Inflatable Technology (MIT) and high-tenacity nylon face fabric create a comfortable, lightweight, and flexible fit. You can switch between inflation modes with the easy-touse “inflater cap”, and the automatic mode deploys when the water-soluble inflator dissolves, while the manual mode activates only when the inflation handle is pulled.

The MIT 150 features an impressive 38 pounds of buoyancy, a zippered hip pocket for the converter cap, inflator inspection window and access flap for convenient safety checks, one-fold design for easy packing, and a D-ring for the engine cut off switch.

Price: $214.99 » www.mustangsurvival.com

» SEAJET PELLERCLEAN

It’s no secret that as marine growth accumulates on propeller blades, efficiency is markedly impaired. SEAJET PellerClean from Lewis Marine is the simple, ecofriendly way to keep running gear sparkling clean for up to two years. Biocide-free, PellerClean is safe to apply and won’t contaminate the environment like other products on the market. It includes a zinc chromate-free epoxy primer that provides optimal adhesion and the silicone-based top coating creates an ultra-smooth, ultraslippery surface that fouling cannot accumulate on. Ideal for propellers, shafts, struts, rudders and trim tabs, it’s equally effective whether used in fresh, brackish, or saltwater. As the vessel is underway, the marine growth simply slips off. For boats that are idle or cruise under five knots, a quick sponging will remove accumulated debris. The Small SEAJET PellerClean Kit comes with cans of primer base, hardener, and clear coat to cover 7.5 square feet. The Big Kit covers 41 sq. ft.

Price: $270 (Small) & $569.99 (Large) » www.seajet-usa.com

» JBL R3500 STEREO

JBL’s new R3500 marine digital media receiver is a compact, weather-resistant design that stands up to storms, rough weather, spray, sun, and even the occasional spilled beverage. How do they know that? JBL rigorously tests all their marine audio gear to make sure it’s tough enough to survive life in the marine environment. This rugged stereo includes a built-in amplifier that can power up to eight speakers, 4-inch black and white LCD screen, Bluetooth 5.0 for music streaming on a smartphone or other device, AM/FM/Weather Band two-channel, IPX7-rated watertight rating, UVresistant front panel, rear AUX and USB ports, 2-channel preamp outputs, and a one year warranty. Note: The R3500 marine digital receiver does not play CDs. Price: $269.95 » www.jbl.com

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CROSSWORD & TRIVIA 1

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DID YOU KNOW?

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Australia, the smallest continent, is still more than 3-1/2 times the size of Greenland, the world’s largest island.

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The smallest tides occur in the Mediterranean Sea, the difference between high and low tide being only one foot.

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Dangers to ships near the shore

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The Netherlands is the lowest non-island country, with about a third of its land below sea level, and its lowest point is minus 23 feet.

New Zealand, French Polynesia, the Samoan Islands, and the Hawaiian Islands are land areas that are not considered part of any continent.

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by Bryan Henry The Gulf of Mexico, the world’s largest gulf, has a coastline of 1,100 miles long and 800 miles wide.

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Shelf under the surface of the

Virtually blind, electric eels catch prey using electric pulses.

Electric eels have been used for medicinal

experiments, particularly in the treatment of Down Across sea 5 Crew’s quarters, for short rheumatism.

Sphere 1 Shelf under the surface of the sea 1 Dangers 9 Historic time to ships near the2shore 3 Berthing area at sea 10 Make sense, with “up” 5 Crew's quarters, for short4 Port and starboard, e.g. 2 Sphere The electric eel, often exceeding six feet long, is 12 Receded as a tide widely eaten in South America.

3 Berthing 9 Historic time area at sea 5 Signaling tools, at sea 13 West Indies island 6 Multi-hulled craft 1410 Moves ahead slowly with "up" 4 Port and starboard, e.g. 15 feet in length, live farther Make sense, Narwhals, reaching 7 Atoll features 17 It can be used in celestial north than any other mammal on earth.

5 Signaling tools, at sea 12 Receded as a tide 8 College website ending navigation 1913 Pearl Harbor’s island 11 Black bird 6 Multi-hulled craft West Indies island Narwhals have a pecking order based on which 21 Break of day 15 Responsibility 7 Atoll features 14 Moves ahead slowly has the longest tusk.

24 __ __ rule (usually), 2 words 16 Naval rank, abbr.

8 College website ending It can be used in celestial18navigation 2617 Khloe’s sister Ship-repair site To display sexual dominance over rivals, male 2719 PartPearl of a dock 20 Sailor’s bed sometimes 11 Black bird Harbor's island narwhals will cross their tusks with other males.

31 Auth. unknown, abbr.

22 Moves cargo onto the dock 15 21 Responsibility Break of day 32 High above 23 Very long time Whales have two blowholes, while dolphins only 16 Naval rank, abbr. __ 3324 Very old__ rule (usually), 2 words 25 Gets less intense, as a storm have one.

35 Complete 28 Massachusetts cape 18 Ship-repair site 26 Khloe's sister 36 Sea walls 29 Freeze, 2 words white shark is capable of detecting a 20 Sailor'sThe 27 Part of a dock bedgreat sometimes 37 Small drink 30 Courageous single drop of blood in a million gallons of water.

3831 GetAuth. leverage, in a way 22 Moves cargo onto the dock unknown, abbr. 34 Captain’s headgear Great white sharks can be drowned within minutes 23 Very long 32 High above time by dragging them backward.

25 Gets less intense, as a storm 33 Very old » See solution on page 51 28 Massachusetts 35 Complete The tiger shark cape has been responsible for more fatal attacks on humans than any other species of shark.

29 Freeze, 2 words 36 Sea walls 48º NORTH NOVEMBER 2023 17 30 Courageous 37 Small drink

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CASTING OFF

THE BETTER PART OF VALOR DEALING WITH CHALLENGES BEFORE THEY BECOME CATASTROPHES

by David Casey

exacerbated because of poor planning or reactionary flare-ups.

In our exploration of Puget Sound, we try to remember that discretion is the better part of valor and, as new sailors, to be aware of our limitations. We’ve found the best approach is to balance our fears and uncertainties with adequate preparation, although seeing T-shirts that read “Fear the Strait” don’t exactly fill us with confidence.

Laura recently attended a seminar on first-mate preparedness, promoted as a “what to do when the captain is incapacitated.”

She came home from the event rattling off quips and quotes for disaster prevention, such as: A knot in a line can reduce its strength by up to 50%; an anchor rode should have a 7-to-1 ratio of line-to-depth; the VHF radio, if properly registered and operated, can send help to a boat’s exact latitude and longitude; if someone goes overboard, their location may be difficult to find owing to the rise and fall of swells; don’t wear your life vest below decks; and, of course, store and maintain proper first aid kits, flares, and fire extinguishers.

Thankfully, neither Laura nor I have been seriously injured in our brief tenure with Ariel, nor have we experienced dislodged anchors, cabin fires, or a crew overboard. Still, I have had to live with other shortcomings and inadequacies that, while not always dangerous, impact our time on the water.

Combined with my particular personality, the lack of sailing

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s I talk with more and more sailors, I am amazed at the expertise and experience that flood the conversations, reminding me of why sailing is so appealing. A competent sailor needs knowledge of weather, tides, and currents, as well as the ability to troubleshoot combustion engines, electrical systems, and mechanical malfunctions. And within each category, no aspect is more important than safety, whether dealing with technical issues or human error.

During one of our club’s general meetings, a member spoke about a recent injury that he incurred on the dock. As a cautionary tale, he warned everyone of the danger of being overconfident with procedures on your boat, even in something as routine as returning to your moorage after an afternoon outing.

The poor fellow was recovering from broken ribs and a punctured lung that happened while pulling into his slip, and then jumping onto the dock. “I had made the short leap hundreds, if not a thousand times from my boat onto the pier.

But this time I missed, and the result was nearly catastrophic.”

With that in mind, every time that my wife, Laura, and I board our Columbia 28 Ariel, we make an effort to slow down and be present in the moment. While there are true accidents and unpredictable events, there are also situations that may be 48º NORTH

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knowledge all too often has led to frustrations, short tempers, and concerns. And true to Murphy’s Law, the incidents occur usually, if not always, when they are least expected and most inopportune. Recently, I experienced a minor blunder that exemplified how much I am still learning each time I’m on the water.

It was a day in which nothing appeared unusual or difficult in our marina. I shifted our boat’s Yamaha outboard in reverse, swung the tiller hard to starboard, and began to exit the slip.

But instead of gently turning 90 degrees, Ariel refused to pivot.

She just remained parallel to her berth drifting just behind the Cal 31, Barquinho, in the next slip over, sandwiched between her stern and a rocky shore.

Were I to move forward, I’d crash into Barquinho. Moving aft, I’d smash into the rocks that border the marina’s basin. At that moment, I wondered how I ever thought I could become a proficient sailor, when I couldn’t even get the darn boat out of her slip!

So, after my profanities and temper subsided, Laura got out the boat hook and we were able to gently nudge Ariel toward her berth. I put the engine in forward and slowly inched back into the slip. Without seeing damage to the boat or the dock, I replayed the event in my head, wondering if a slow exit velocity and a hard starboard rudder actually impeded any movement of our boat. I had to consider that moving too quickly, and reacting to what I imagined could be a disaster, led to my short-fuse blowout.

As I continued to look beyond the moment, I envisioned

Even though it’s not always dangerous, stepping on and off your boat should be done with care.

desperation in far more challenging situations, whether they might be in the form of major equipment failure during a crossing of the Strait of Juan de Fuca or, even worse, crew overboard in stormy conditions.

There are situations when acting immediately is crucial in averting an accident or calamity. But perhaps equally true is

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realizing that moving too quickly out of fear or habit can also lead to problems.

In the battle of “take immediate action or wait,” experience may be the best weapon. A few months ago, I witnessed the completion of the Winter Vashon Race, observing the dousing of spinnakers as vessels changed their course to cross the finish.

One boat was unable to drop the billowing kite even after crossing the marker. I ignorantly thought that the crew was not paying attention, until an experienced boater watching the race with me explained that their halyard was probably jammed and they were doing their best to get out of the path of other finishing racers before dealing with the issue. Sure enough, in less than a minute the chute was down and the boat righted, motoring comfortably, collision-crisis averted.

As we become more involved and invested in the sailing community, we become privy to the stories and experiences of other sailors and racers. Those who can laugh and then learn about their near-misses teach us that we’re going to be alright, even in the middle of a crisis or when the weather takes a turn for the worse.

Laura and I have had only one minor incident with weather, heading through the Tacoma Narrows with winds and currents that churned the water, slowing our passage and tossing Ariel like a cork. It was accompanied by a brief episode that tested both my concentration and balance, as I headed to the bow to douse the jib.

Since Ariel is not equipped with roller furling, I usually manhandle the jib on the foredeck as Laura slowly lowers the halyard. I gather the headsail as quickly as I can, being careful to avoid the sheets and piling dacron at my feet. I’m well aware of the nearly absent lifelines at the bow of the boat, which angle towards the deck so as to allow the jib shape along the foot to be unimpeded on more points of sail. The open space presents itself as a dangerous invitation to plunge overboard, and one

Practicing flaking the jib on deck at the dock makes it easier when done on the water.

Having the proper emergency equipment is imperative.

that I refuse at every offering.

With care and deliberation, the lowering of the jib on that day was completed without incident, and our only frustration was riding the seasick-inducing swells back to our harbor.

I think that we are hard-wired to remember the extreme, whether it is defined by danger and damage or beauty and joy. In our brief time with Ariel, we have managed to endure and enjoy mild cases of each end of the spectrum with many adventures ahead, each creating the possibility for personal and technical growth.

I admire the wisdom of some of my fellow 48° North storytellers who have shared tales of adapting, or even abandoning, their goals in the interest of safety; they seem to find peace in the journey and exaltation in their prudently flexible seamanship.

Like these exemplary and experienced sailors, cruisers, and adventurers, Laura and I find solace in each moment of an exploration. And we are reassured that these rewards are available to us whether the journey takes us just outside our local moorings of Tacoma, or well beyond them across the Strait of Juan de Fuca and up through the Inside Passage.

Each nautical mile has the potential to lead us to emotional paradise, or conversely, mental or physical anguish. Some events result in real damage while others take their toll in our negative interpretation and replaying of them. In those cases, it would be best to heed the words of Marcus Aurelius, the Roman Emperor in the second century: “If you are pained by external things, it is not they that disturb you, but your own judgment of them. And it is in your power to wipe out that judgment now.”

I guess that I might have to add philosophy to the list of subjects that sailboat owners discuss. And while I ponder my personal contribution to that topic, I’ll keep learning and sailing and upholding the principle that discretion is still the better part of valor.

David Casey is a retired math teacher and semi-professional woodworker and bass player. He plans on using his retirement to build a small sailboat and a kayak, and to explore the waters of southern Puget Sound.

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22

DIESEL DEEP DIVE

DIY FAILS WHEN COMMON DIY MISTAKES AND ERRORS MAKE PROBLEMS WORSE

by Meredith Anderson

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or many of us, self-reliance in the marine world is a critical component of being a successful boat owner.

The desire to do our own work has its own organic motivations, but it can also be attributed to the often challenging prospect of finding capable contractors who can fix your boat, answer their phones, and show up when expected.

Whether it’s because we aspire to be able to replicate these duties in exotic and remote locations, or we are forced to rely on ourselves because we can’t bring in someone who can help — boat owners do a lot of DIY work, and a boat’s diesel engine is no exception.

Even when there is a mechanic nearby, I am a huge supporter of DIY work for all the learning it offers, not to mention the possibility that a DIYer might then fix more things away from the dock. I do, however, see many common issues that arise from DIY engine work — usually from a lack of knowledge or from not taking the time to do things correctly. It is not uncommon for me to get called in when a DIY fix either didn’t do the job or created a new problem.

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While it is possible to simply “make things work,” too often a ton of money and time is wasted when trying to find a shortcut to fix something. This column won’t have all the answers, but hopefully it can help you identify some of the most common problems that happen when DIYers attempt a fix themselves.

THE ENGINE WON’T START This is one of the most common issues I come across in the field — you go to start the engine and it just clicks or nothing happens at all. No problem right? It’s just a battery or maybe the starter? After spending several hundred dollars on a new starter and battery, the problem still exists… well crap. This is usually when I get called, and one of the first things I do is check for loose and/or corroded connections at the batteries and the starter. I always carry a multimeter with me, and it takes a few minutes to test the battery, cables, fuses, and the starter.

Many mechanics make this mistake too, jumping to the conclusion that the battery and/or starter is the problem. Always test and confirm the issue first before

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throwing parts and money at the problem.

Most of the time, the starting issue can be quite simple and cost almost nothing to fix yourself. I commonly find corroded or loose connections at the heavy cables leading to and from the engine. Don’t forget the ground cables, either.

THE ALARMS ARE GOING OFF ON THE ENGINE PANEL A really important guiding principle and a theme I will keep repeating is to always verify the complaint or issue. If you are getting a wonky reading on your temperature or oil pressure gauges saying you are overheating or have low/high oil pressure, then you need to verify that the problem actually exists before tearing your engine apart looking for a problem that may not actually be there. If your temperature gauge is reading high/low, run to a hardware store and get yourself a cheap infrared temperature gun and confirm that the engine is actually overheating before looking into it deeper.

Often, DIYers are quick to tear their entire cooling system apart to find that there was a poor connection on the temperature NOVEMBER 2023

sensor or that a gauge is going bad. A big one is oil pressure, owners will have a false low oil pressure reading and assume the engine is garbage. The internet doesn’t help with this either. Verify with an analog gauge and get a real oil pressure reading, then move on from there, because it may just be a sensor, gauge, or connection.

THE INTERNET ISN’T ALWAYS YOUR FRIEND Armchair mechanics are some of the worst DIY boat owners that I have ever dealt with. While it can be a struggle to get good information when you are trying to work through a problem yourself, there are lots of good resources that don’t come from Facebook groups or random forums where you have “experts” telling you how to do things incorrectly. YouTube can be a good resource, from a reputable mechanic or expert in the field. I have read and seen some extremely poor advice from people who think they know better and boat owners will take this advice, and then end up doing major damage to their engines as a result. I have seen internet recommendations as ill-advised as the use of starter fluid or disconnecting batteries while the engine is running. Advice this unsound does nothing to help or diagnose the actual issue, and it might make it worse or potentially add a new problem. If you’re unsure about a particular problem, reach out to a local mechanic for a consultation or find a reputable source online for the proper way to complete a job. An hour’s worth of consultation on how to do the job correctly can save hundreds or thousands of dollars down the road.

I know that marine parts are expensive, we all get that. Still, it’s almost never a better deal to buy cheap and then pay again when a mechanic has to come in to diagnose leaks, mystery issues, failures, and other problems; not to mention the cost of time if you get stranded somewhere instead of enjoying a relaxing cruise. When a mechanic finds an engine part isn’t working well right out of the box, or the cabling and connectors are already falling apart rapidly, we get another reminder that the cheap stuff people buy doesn’t work. Admittedly, some engine manufacturers have a great aftermarket, but not every manufacturer does and boat owners still risk spending double the money when the first parts don’t fit or work. To save money later, spend the money and get the right stuff the first time.

I am a strong proponent of DIY work, as I am also a DIYer of many things and believe we should be able to fix our own things when we need or want to. To properly take care of your boat’s engine, take the time to verify, diagnose, and do things right and you‘ll find that things go much smoother.

Unlike this DIY setup, electrical connections need to be tidy and clutter free.

Meredith Anderson is the owner of Meredith’s Marine Services, where she operates a mobile mechanic service and teaches hands-on marine diesel classes to groups and in private classes aboard clients' own vessels.

GOING CHEAP WHEN YOU SHOULDN’T One of the final points that I come across most often is the purchase and use of cheap parts and materials that are not cut out for the marine environment. There are ways to save money when working on your engine, and you don’t have to pay full price for everything out there or only buy the absolute top of the line. However, I have watched too many people waste money trying to buy cheap alternatives for their engines that don’t last or work in the first place. I also see this a lot with electrical jobs completed by DIYers where cheaper welding cable and connectors are used instead of marine grade supplies.

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An engine's exhaust elbow is a critical component, one that is relatively easy for a boat owner to inspect and service.

Going cheap on things like proper battery boxes may seem like a good idea, but can be a nightmare in the end.

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A NORTHWEST SAILOR NAVIGATES THE PAST

by Lisa Mighetto

STORIED RACES IN BREEZY BRITAIN

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RICH TRADITION AND NORTHWEST PRESENCE AT FASTNET AND COWES WEEK

n July and August, my husband Frank and I paused our summer cruising adventures in the Pacific Northwest and soon found ourselves dropping by multiple yacht clubs in the UK, where of course we were surrounded by boat talk. The English are mad about sailing. What surprised us were the people we met casually — at pubs, in museums, even on park benches — who wanted to talk about sailboat racing. “Are you here for Fastnet?” asked a random passenger on our train from Edinburgh.

“Will you stay for Cowes Week?” The answer to both questions was “yes.” He was a marine engineer who overheard us talking about our plans to visit the village of Cowes on the Isle of Wight. This new friend chatted for several hours as our train sped toward London, revealing his dream of retiring on a sailboat in southern 48º NORTH

England.

Maybe living on an island brings a pervasive awareness of the sea. Maybe the interest in boats is a holdover from England’s imperial quest to rule the high seas, which once made it the world’s greatest naval power. Maybe it’s the involvement of the Royals. Whatever the reason, the English interest in all things sailing made me see yacht racing from a new perspective.

The Fastnet Race and Cowes Week embrace historical, cultural, and social components that make them more than sporting events. Cowes has been a focal point of sailboat racing since the 1820s, and in recent decades its advantageous location has drawn a growing number of entries from far-flung corners of the globe, including the Pacific Northwest. These

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sailors come for the challenging racecourse and to connect with the international sailing community.

The first thing I noticed as my ferry approached Cowes was the strong wind.

Our vessel wove through hundreds of sailboats tacking back and forth across the Solent, a strait separating mainland England from the Isle of Wight. No one seemed concerned, on the ferry or on the water, when a small boat went over. The sailors quickly righted their craft and continued.

On shore, the wind whipped through the narrow streets, rattling the windows of waterfront restaurants and shaking the walls of our bed and breakfast with alarming force. Frank and I both lost hats.

In classic British understatement, the locals described these conditions as “sporty,” “lively,” and, my favorite, “breezy.”

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The 2023 race course from England to Fastnet Rock and France.

Red Ruby (center) with Pacific Northwest husband and wife duo Christina and Justin Wolfe, at the Fastnet Race start in Cowes. Photo credit: Lisa Mighetto A RACE “WITH TEETH” Fastnet is the world’s largest offshore yacht race, with a record 430 boats starting this year. The Fastnet is well known to Salish Sea sailors and is on many serious racers’ bucket lists. The event, now sponsored by Rolex, has come a long way since its first year in 1925, when only seven boats participated. The Royal Ocean Racing Club (RORC), based in London and Cowes, organizes the event biennially and 2023 marked the 50th edition. On July 22, racers set out from Cowes in a storm, facing a course of 695 nautical miles that included rounding Fastnet Rock in southern Ireland and finishing at Cherbourg-en-Cotentin on the coast of Normandy in France.

As a hardy Northwesterner, I thought I knew wind and rain. But I could barely hang on as the press boat bounced through the waves and spray to keep up with the racers. Drenched, I clung to the handles of the inflatable, watching the various classes fly past on their way into the English Channel.

The combination of innovative and traditional boats was dazzling. In a

display of high-tech splendor, vessels of advanced, modern design soared by, showing off their carbon fiber masts and sails, retractable foils, dual rudders, and canting keels, while bright orange storm jibs offered a flash of color against the dreary gray of the sea. The massive 32/23 Ultim trimarans and the 60-foot foiling IMOCAs towered above the water, looming like Klingon warships.

At the same time, the traditional shapes of classic boats seemed to link this competition to earlier races. Vintage yachts included Kialoa II, a 73-foot maxi yawl that had participated in previous Fastnets and many other ocean races, such as Transpac and Sydney Hobart.

“The old girl,” as owner Paddy Broughton called his boat, brought a sense of bygone eras to this Fastnet, reminding us of “all the old races… done in her time.”

He did not appear too concerned about victory. “I’m looking forward to drinking good French wine in Cherbourg,” he commented at a press conference before the race.

I spotted Red Ruby, a Sun Fast 3300 owned and crewed by Pacific Northwest

Sunrise, Great Britain, rounding the Fastnet Rock.

Photo credit: 2023 Rolex Fastnet Race, Kurt Arrigo.

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duo Christina and Justin Wolfe, in a stream of boats at the start. This husband and wife team from Orcas Island, who named their boat after a Salish Sea octopus, had joined a growing number of doublehanded entries in Fastnet (read their full report on the race in the October 2023 issue of 48° North). “There were 21 other Sun Fast 3300s racing,” Justin observed. “There is nowhere else in the world where you can get that.”

Doublehanding is their chosen way to race, and offers a variety of challenges, including crew dynamics. “We really share,” Justin explained. “We switch over driving very frequently.” Moreover, “we have fun doing it. I actually have no interest in racing with someone else,” (James Boyd, “Doublehanded Domination at 2023 Rolex Fastnet Race,” Sail-World).

It was a similar thrill to see Ellie Driver, a 21-year-old racer on another Sun Fast 3300, Chilli Pepper, on the water.

Before the race, she also commented on the importance of family closeness and doublehanding with her father.

My dad and I “are quite real with each

Warrior Won, USA, rounding the Fastnet Rock.

Photo credit: 2023 Rolex Fastnet Race, Carlo Borlenghi.

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Modern designs with foils, twin rudders, and carbon fiber rigs were on full display at the Fastnet Race start.

Photo credit: Lisa Mighetto. other,” she said, noting how they remain flexible, relieving each other for watches as needed, rather than following a rigid schedule. Meanwhile, her mother makes sure the boat is “fully stocked” with comfort food, including banana bread (Rolex Fastnet Race Press Conference, Cowes, July 21).

The weather deteriorated as the Fastnet fleet entered the English Channel.

The Solent was in full ebb, setting up wind-against-tide conditions. During the first night, gusts of more than 40 knots created large, confused seas. The doublehanded racers aboard Vari, a Sun Fast 3600, issued a May Day call when their boat began to sink. The pair climbed into their life raft and within 15 minutes Vari was gone. Some accounts claim that one of the racers went into the water. In any case, a rescue vessel from Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight brought them safely ashore. The next morning, as my husband Frank and I left on a ferry bound for the race finish in Cherbourg, we noticed Yoyo, a Royal Naval Sailing Association boat that we had seen at the race start, in the harbor – dismasted. Yoyo was just one

Cowes Week Regatta. The historic Holy Trinity Church, visible on shore in the center, includes a memorial to those who perished in the 1979 Fastnet Race. Photo credit: Lisa Mighetto.

of many boats too damaged to continue, battered by the gales of Fastnet.

“It was the hardest, windiest race since 1979,” commented one of the event organizers, referring to the disastrous year the Fastnet Race lost 15 sailors and four civilians in a Force 10 gale. In the decades since 1979 the event has benefitted from improvements in yacht design, weather predictions, and life-saving procedures.

These were “challenging conditions” in 2023, acknowledged Steve Cole, RORC racing manager, serving as “a powerful reminder that this event may happen in mid-July but can still have teeth” (“A Worthy Rolex 50th Fastnet Race”).

Red Ruby covered more than 200 miles in the last 24 hours of the race, finishing seventh in IRC Two-Handed. France won 8 of the 12 classes, with Switzerland winning 3 and the USA taking one. The French boat SVR Lazartigue, skippered

by François Gabart, was first to arrive home. Placing first in the Ultim Class, SVR Lazartigue set a multihull elapsed time record for the race: 1 day, 8 hours, 38 minutes, and 27 seconds.

While 2023 was a wild year for Fastnet,

The next generation of racers watch from the shore at Cowes.

Photo credit: Lisa Mighetto.

48º NORTH

Stephanie Campbell, an Anacortes-based sailor and 48° North writer who raced Fastnet in 2021, remarked that this event is typically demanding. “You will be racing in lots of wind,” she advised potential competitors, adding that “we thought the swells were big in the Solent,” but they “only increased” in the channel. She could have been describing the 2023 race. Northwest competitors may have an advantage in that the Solent is “similar to Puget Sound” and racers here are used to big tides. She suggested that Northwest sailors interested in this event charter a boat with their own crew or jump on as part of a larger crew, as four members of the Equus team from Three Tree Point Yacht Club did on a Volvo 65 this year. England is charming and beautiful, Campbell concluded, and “full of … a genuine love for sailing” (“The Adventure We Got: PNWers Tackle the Fastnet 2021,” 48° North, September 2021).

BREAKING BREAD AT COWES WEEK When the Cowes Week regatta followed the Fastnet Race in late July, the

The village of Cowes has long been a focal point of sailing and socializing in the UK, as shown in this postcard from the early 20th century. Photo credit: Lisa Mighetto.

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wind-against-tide conditions persisted, producing big seas that interrupted several of the races. Even so, the frequent sound of start cannons echoed through the village, signaling that many competitions continued. Past participants in Cowes Week indicated that these conditions are not unusual. The Seattlebased crew of the 1D48, Flash, raced on a chartered Ker 40 in 2012, winning the Queen’s Cup in challenging conditions.

When asked how his crew fared so well, Steve Travis replied, “Seattle has tides also!” (Steve Travis, “Flash Crew Wins Queen’s Cup at Cowes Week,” CYC, Aug. 30, 2012).

While the first regatta in 1826 included only a handful of entries, Cowes Week now attracts around 500 boats and thousands of competitors, ranging from teenagers to seniors, and from worldclass competitors to ordinary sailors. The sense of tradition is strong here. Several classes that competed 50 years ago are still racing today, including Dragons, Flying Fifteens, Redwings, Sea View Mermaids, Solent Sunbeams, Swallows, and Victories.

At Cowes Week, you come for the racing and stay for the socializing (or, as Frank puts it, “come for the carnage, stay for the cocktails”). This is nothing new.

The Seattle Daily Times reported on the regatta throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries, focusing as much on the highbrow parties as on the races. Hoping to elevate her position in New York society, for instance, Mrs. George Gould visited Cowes Week in 1899, “taking tea” on a yacht with the Prince of Wales in the “happiest event in her recent social career” (Seattle Daily Times, August 12, 1899). Cowes Week, another article explained, marked the end of the social season in England, where “the flower of British aristocracy throngs the little town, so it is almost impossible for servants to keep track of the constant going and coming of visitors from one house to another” (Seattle Daily Times, Oct. 31, 1926).

In my experience, which was more humble, the village took on a festival atmosphere, where you could hear sea shanties on one street corner and live rock music on the next. Colorful banners lined the streets, flapping in the wind above 48º NORTH

ice cream carts and booths of nautical merchandise. Cocktail parties brought racers together with fans and spectators, all discussing regattas past and present.

“It was on my bucket list,” was a common response when I asked racers what drew them here. As one member of the Royal Thames Yacht Club suggested to me, “England is sailing-mad” and “Cowes is the center.” He had raced three Fastnets and had participated in more Cowes Weeks than he could recall.

Occasionally, the rain and wind drove people into the pubs and restaurants along the waterfront. Here, too, everyone seemed eager to share their race stories, which flowed freely in this relaxed setting. “We come to Cowes to meet up with friends we see once a year,” one sailor informed me, bringing to mind sentiments from big events in the Pacific Northwest like Race Week or Swiftsure.

This international crowd looked to fellow patrons in navigating the menus. Frank loved the cask ales, recommending favorites to those sampling them for the first time. Similarly, racers and spectators bonded over exploring regional cuisine.

While beef and ale pie appeared to be a straightforward meal, what, exactly, is a Toad in the Hole? And for dessert: a honeycomb doughnut, Eaton mess, or spotted dick (yes, you read that correctly).

I drew the line at an “oozing toastie,” not wanting to eat anything that “oozed.” But one Scottish sailor encouraged me with a charming phrase. “Give it’ a wee go,” he urged. Sounds like words to live by – for trying out unfamiliar food and sailboat races.

Surely, with their storied tradition and massive turnout, both Fastnet and Cowes will draw Salish Sea sailors in future years; what the sailing-mad Brits might not realize, however, is how much fun they’d have joining a big regatta on our local waters.

Lisa Mighetto is a sailor and historian living in Seattle. The author is grateful for use of the libraries at the Royal Thames Yacht Club, London, and the Cowes Maritime Museum. Her reflections on the UK sailing community also appear in “Bash to the Rock,” Sailing Magazine (October 2023).

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MISCHIEF ON THE EDGE

by Michael Boyd Photos by Karen Johnson

O

ur rather daring goal for the 2023 cruising season was to explore some of the inlets on British Columbia’s North Coast that are on the edge of the Pacific Ocean and Hecate Strait, some of which are open to the ocean waters, and to do it without too much drama. As Pacific Northwest cruisers are well aware, part of the magic of our expansive cruising grounds is just how much of them may be enjoyed by traveling almost exclusively through the relatively protected waters of the Inside Passage. What might we discover about cruising, our boat, ourselves, and the wilder waters and shores by venturing a little farther out? Among other things, we’d find sublime solitude, some barely-charted waters, and a strainerchoking quantity of jellyfish.

In keeping with our priority of low-drama ocean travel, we left Seattle in late May. The weather along the coast is less settled at that time than later in the summer, and we wanted to give ourselves more time to wait for good weather windows.

Predictably, our progress northward was slower than we 48º NORTH

had hoped, so as we neared the Central Coast we had been out almost a month and needed some dock-time for all the usual things: battery charging, laundry, shopping, and more.

Shearwater Resort near Bella Bella is just the place.

Being the only full service marina between Port Hardy on Vancouver Island and Prince Rupert near the Alaska border, everyone seems to gravitate toward Shearwater when heading north or south. Shearwater is actually a resort, with a lodge/ hotel plus a well maintained marina. It has all the usual resort amenities: showers, laundromat, small grocery, marine store (mostly for fishermen), restaurant, and a bonus, a boatyard with travel lift. To stretch our legs, we took the hike of about two miles through interesting bog type terrain (called muskeg in Alaska) to Eddie Lake; there was no skinny dipping on this day, too cool. The muddy places in the trail had plenty of wolf and coyote prints and we even saw a new bird — a blue grouse and chick.

Of course, Shearwater has fellow boaters. When not hiking,

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shopping, or doing laundry, we spent most of our time socializing. Even though there were only 10 other boats, we ended up spending time with most of them. People stopped by to comment on our dinghy or the design of our Eagle 40, and the stories and connections were fascinating. One person recognized Mischief from our latest article in 48° North, and she just happened to be on a boat we had anchored with in Squirrel Cove three weeks prior. Karen sold some of her notecards to the boat across the dock that we’d stayed with at Chatterbox Falls in 2017. One man was there to deliver a boat to his 20-something daughter who was going to take it on to Haida Gwaii. We met two men in their 70s who were rowing a 17-foot Whitehall from Port Hardy to Ketchikan. The people were so interesting and the conversations so varied we almost felt like it was some kind of speed dating event.

After a wonderful and crazy busy time, we were glad to get away and were excited to begin our explorations farther north.

The local forecast for the day was showers — instead we got dense fog patches alternating with sun and blue sky. At least the wind was close to the forecast “light” airs, so we headed west and ventured into a little bit of the ocean and then into a large open body of water called Milbanke Sound. From this point, there are two passages that you could take to the west side of Princess Royal Island: Higgins Passage and Meyers Passage. Higgins is the shorter, more direct route but it has a major problem — the middle of the passage is blocked by a dangerous bar that dries at 5 feet making it too shallow for Mischief, except on really high tides. There wasn’t going to be a sufficiently high tide when we needed it, so we took Meyers and had 14 feet of water at low tide. There were four kayakers taking the passage with us, just cruising along in the calm water, and we slowed down as we passed them in the narrow passage.

So far, the cruising had been easy and the waters calm, but now we were approaching the start of our objective for this summer’s cruise — exploration of the waters on the edge of the ocean, starting with Kitasu Bay. Part of Laredo Sound, Kitasu Bay has a number of inlets indenting its shore that are so remote the first large scale chart was published only 6 years ago, in

Sharing the knowledge — socializing in Shearwater.

One of many wolf prints in the trail to Eddy Lake.

Racey Inlet LO RE DO CH AN NE L

A HECATE STR

Neither electronic chart of Osment Inlet is completely accurate.

Tate Cove

PRINCESS ROYAL ISLAND

ARISTAZABAL ISLAND

Meyers Passage

IT

KITAS U BAY Bent Harbour WE E TE E AM B AY

Osment Inlet

SWINDLE ISLAND

Higgins Passage

PRICE ISLAND

MIL BANKE SO UND

PACIF IC OCEA N

Mischief's track "on the edge".

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Shearwater

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Mischief anchored peacefully at head of Osment Inlet.

2017. Our chartplotter predates those charts, and only has an approximation of the location of the major islands with blank white areas where we would usually see blue soundings. We have an iPad with recent electronic charts with soundings but, as we were to discover, it had its own inaccuracies. Luckily, we also had the all-important recent paper chart.

Armed with three navigational tools, we didn’t feel like we were pushing the boundaries of safe cruising and decided to explore Kitasu Bay’s inlets to find the best place to spend the night. The first one we tried was Coward Inlet, which has a narrow entrance that required a person on the bow to warn of rocks or reefs. We didn’t care for it, so we had to undertake the tricky navigation twice in one day. Our next option, Cann Inlet, was pretty but too deep for convenient anchoring. Osment Inlet, on the other hand, has a passage that winds among islands and reefs ending at a lovely anchorage with a mostly flat, mud bottom.

Mischief’s chartplotter was of no help, showing us on land when we were clearly still afloat. The iPad correctly showed the passages, islands, and soundings, but also displayed a “shallow area” in the anchorage where the paper chart showed a large rock that would be exposed at medium tides. Sure enough, we saw the rock and recognized it was more than just a shallow spot! At this point, we had used all our navigational tools and had arrived there safely.

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Osment Inlet is completely landlocked at its head, but still had a mild breeze to keep away the bugs. It was surrounded by older forest with many silver snags, and was a lovely place worth the stress required to reach it. With one success under our belts, we were looking forward to more exploration of this sort.

The next day started with light drizzle and fog that quickly improved to deep blue skies and intense sunshine. Doubly impressed by our surroundings in this new light, we decided to stay another day. With that decision made, our first order of business was putting out a crab trap. We had no idea if there were crabs, but setting the trap is the only way to find out.

After that, we puttered around until lunchtime when, with a simultaneous low tide, we went on a rowing tour of the inlet with the hope we could find some place to land and stretch our legs. We succeeded beyond our expectations.

Osment Inlet ends in a long, narrow river delta that mostly dries at low tide. Equipped with our muck boots, we rowed to the edge of the water and walked along the shore, much of the time over sand and mud flats covered with clam shells. We continued a half-mile back into the head of the delta where multiple creeks enter the salt chuck. We could see the course of the streams and walk among the salt marsh grasses. Along the way, we saw the remains of two fish traps used by indigenous peoples so we knew this area was once populated and these

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were streams thought productive by the local population at the time. There was an eagle in an old snag patiently waiting for the tide to come in.

We continued rowing around our little world and spotted a lone sandhill crane high up on another beach near the remains of a float house along with the floating infrastructure of an aquaculture farm, which was no longer in operation and just being stored there. Later, back at the boat, a river otter swam by and an osprey soared overhead before making a dive into the water.

The inlet was crystal clear with a large number of water jellies, a delicate common jellyfish, of all sizes from tiny to about 6 inches, floating at various depths. Karen definitely thought our extra day stay was worthwhile. Despite the fact we didn’t catch any crabs, we loved being completely alone in this isolated anchorage.

The following day was one of those “interesting” days boaters are all too familiar with. It started well enough, dead calm with fog caressing the tops of the trees surrounding our bay. It was cool, about 57 degrees. We started the generator, turned on the heat and sat down to breakfast but, after about 20 minutes, Karen noticed smoke coming out of the generator and we quickly shut it off. In diagnosing the problem, a brief start showed it was running hot and there was hardly any water flow.

Opening the raw water strainer clearly revealed the problem

— it was so clogged with jellyfish that I could barely get the basket out. The hose from the through-hull was clogged, too, and maybe the generator engine itself. We spent the next hour cleaning the basket and the housing, reinstalling and starting the generator, running for a few minutes before shutting down, and doing it all over again. Eventually, the number of jellyfish in the basket declined and it was running at normal temperature with pretty much normal water flow; soon, we discovered no more jellyfish. Disaster averted.

By the time we’d resolved the jellyfish generator issue, the fog was beginning to burn off, so we decided to head out to our next destination “on the edge” — Weeteeam Bay, on the wild west coast of Aristazabal Island. Getting there requires leaving the protection of the Inside Passage and going out into the ocean waters of southern Hecate Strait. The forecast was for winds of 5-15 knots and ocean swells less than 3 feet, and that’s exactly what we got… that, plus fog.

The west coast of Aristazabal is encumbered with islands, rocks, and reefs for a distance of up to 10 miles offshore. It’s no place to be in the fog, even with a chartplotter. If it didn’t clear, the low visibility would have driven us to turn around and go somewhere else. But our karma must have been good because just as we approached the southern end of the island to start the delicate portion of the navigation, it vanished and we could see the scene around us. It was spectacular, with islands and

Low tide hike to Osment Inlet lagoon.

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reefs in almost every direction and the ocean swell breaking on them as we motored past. Some of the islands had trees and some were just large chucks of rock with birds on the top. We carefully rounded the southern tip of Aristazabal and headed northwest up the coast to rarely-visited Weeteeam Bay. This bay has several possible anchorages; we chose one called Bent Harbour, named, I suppose, after the right angle bends the harbor makes through the many islands that provide its shelter. Those islands are low and provide only limited protection from the wind, but no waves or swell can get in the anchorage. We felt quite safe here and closed the day by again checking our strainers for jellyfish and, thankfully, found them clean. We hadn’t seen another cruising boat for days, which didn’t surprise us but delighted us nonetheless.

Bent Harbour was beautiful in the morning with fog patches rolling in from Hecate Strait then dissipating over the land. Even though it was perfectly calm, we delayed our start until the fog had burned off and we would have a clear view of the west coast of Aristazabal Island. We knew that it was better to negotiate the passage through the many islands, rocks, and reefs dotting the coast in good visibility; and the day proved excellent for travel with sunny skies, mild breeze, and gentle 1-2 foot swells.

While requiring careful navigation, our journey northwest was calm, even relaxing — no white knuckles on this day.

The weather forecast was for strong southerly winds the following day so before rounding the top of Aristazabal we decided to seek shelter in Tate Cove, reported to be excellent in all wind conditions. The only drawback was a fishing lodge in a nearby nook, so we weren’t alone any longer. Karen, for one, found it welcome relief from the sometimes unsettling feeling of being “so far out that help might never arrive” that she experienced in Bent Harbour. If the winds materialized, we could stay another day rather than venture out into open water. And since Tate Cove is renowned for its large numbers of eagles, we would not be bored. Along a wild coast like this one, a mariner could certainly do worse.

We didn’t particularly care for the weather forecast, which called for wind and rain, but in the morning it was calm and dry, so we decided to travel anyway, starting off in a slight westerly swell. We were headed for more protected waters, away from the ocean and its swells, back to the cruising we were more familiar with. We had enjoyed our time on the edge of the ocean, in no small part because conditions had been as good as one could hope for.

After many years of cruising protected passages with incalculable rewards and enjoyment, much of our cruising in the last few years has pushed us outside our comfort zones as we ventured into ocean waters. With the portion of our 2023 North Coast trip that brought us to barely-charted Kitasu Bay and the wild west coast of Aristazabal as the latest example — time and prudent seamanship make it possible for cautious cruisers to explore these remarkable, remote, and potentially risky regions. And we are so glad we did.

Sunset from Tate Cove on the west coast of Aristazabal Island.

Morning fog in Laredo Sound added to the mystery of the place.

Enjoying a calm day on the ocean side of Aristazabal Island.

Michael and Karen have been cruising the Salish Sea and beyond for more than 20 years, the last 12 aboard Mischief, a 40 foot Eagle pilothouse trawler.

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NOVEMBER 2023

A 48° NORTH BOAT TEST

JEANNEAU SUN ODYSSEY 380

by Joe Cline

T

he latest in Jeanneau’s next-generation Sun Odyssey range is the 380. The boat made its debut in 2021, but it wasn’t until recently that I had a chance to get out on one.

No doubt that this is a comfortable cruising design with loads of modern amenities, but so much of what Jeanneau has done with the 380 takes user-friendly up a level. It’s sailor friendly, and will help its owners sail more enjoyably and with greater ease than they might on some competing designs. Sailing the boat was equal parts impressive and delightful.

Many of the 380’s design elements are aligned with others in the range, and that’s a very good thing (you may recall how dazzled I was with the 440 when I sailed it in 2018). The new 380 is designed by Marc Lombard (regular readers may note that this is the same designer in last month’s boat test). Aesthetically, it looks very contemporary and sexy, generally a smaller evolution of its larger siblings. Similar to the 440, and central to all the latest Sun Odysseys, the new 380 uses Jeanneau’s “Scow Bow” design, with its full-length hard chine and broad, gently rounded bow knuckle. I know I’m a broken record, but it bears repeating — the choice for full-length hard chines increases interior volume without adding extra wetted surface and provides hull form stability when a boat is heeled on its chine. Jeanneau’s application of the hard chine at the stem brings it close to the water and the broader bow shape gives this bow-up, almost skipabove-the-wave sensation, the antithesis of a wave piercing bow.

Notably, the stem angle of the 380 goes beyond plumb to what's referred to as a "negative" bow, in which the knuckle is farther forward than the bow at deck level. It looks great, especially with the bowsprit above it, and is stretching available waterline length to its reasonable maximum.

You’ll also find walk-around side decks, an innovation the 380 48º NORTH

shares with its predecessors. This essentially wraps the cockpit, helm station, and outboard side deck around each side’s cockpit seating area, before the outboard deck slopes gently upwards from the cockpit level to deck level just forward of the shrouds.

The application of this walk-around deck on the 380 is elegantly done considering its comparatively small footprint — the 380 is just under 37 feet in length on deck, plus the bowsprit. The “wrapping” cockpit sole offers sitting or standing options at the helm with seats on the aft coaming and, importantly, a standing position to trim the primary winches, which are located on the aft portion of the cockpit seats, from aft and outboard. This is a brilliant posture not only for efficient winch grinding, but also for a view of the sail you’re trimming, and the winches are still in arm’s reach of the helm station. Of interest to me was the way the side decks bring the cockpit seats closer together. There’s still plenty of room to move fore and aft along the cockpit table’s stainless steel frame with folding leaves (also a great handhold), and I appreciated the narrower layout. In a seaway, it’s not really an advantage to have an open cockpit with most of the boat’s 12foot 3-inch beam between the seats when crossing, or potentially falling, from side to side. The 380 makes more practical use of the space.

Of course, the walk around design also provides convenient access to the side decks up the ramps. The 380, also like others in the range, uses outboard chainplates for the shrouds, which adds width and stability to the rig while making them easier to work on, as well as removing a major source of potential water ingress from the deck. The enduring compromise of this design is that a sailor must maneuver underneath the lower shroud to go forward on the 380’s side decks — something I find most easily done by holding the lower shroud and kind of swinging through, though

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you can also step up on the cabin top closer to the mast. Nearly all of the sailing and boat handling can be done from aft of the shrouds and accessing the mast is just as easy; but for anchoring or docking, cruisers will get quite comfortable with how best to move fore and aft quickly under the shroud.

I was a little surprised to find a rig with no backstay, but with two sets of significantly swept spreaders, the standing stay’s removal enables those complexities of the aft deck layout and still retains its offshore capability, and allows for the use of a square-top mainsail. Another user-friendly attribute to the 380’s rig is a gooseneck that meets the mast quite low to the deck, but the boom slopes up slightly as it goes aft, which resembles some older catamaran designs, as well as the most cutting-edge IMOCA racing yachts. This arrangement allows easy reach to the sail pack and headboard of the mainsail without having to climb partway up the mast, even for sailors who aren’t very tall.

As with so many current production models, the same basic boat is available in a wide array of configurations — we get so much choice. Among the options on the Jeanneau 380, there are three keel options (shoal, deep fixed, and lifting), and three mainsail choices (a roller-furling option, and either a classic triangular or performance square top that are traditionally rigged). Our test boat was the “Performance” version with the deeper fixed keel and square-top main, and this trend toward improved performance really shined.

On the day I got to go sailing on the new Jeanneau 380, we rolled the conditions-dice and hit the jackpot — warm autumn sun and 10-13 knots of beautiful northerly breeze on Seattle’s Lake Union. So often, I test a new design and wind up saying, “I can see what the boat will be able to do in conditions that favor it.” In this case, I got to see the 380's capabilities first-hand.

We raised the sails, which are a high quality laminate cloth on the Performance package, and they filled with good-looking shapes from the jump. The 380 utilizes the near-ubiquitous German mainsheet system, and the mainsheet runs to the primary winches, which it shares with the jib sheets with clutches just forward. The main’s spectra bridle system will keep the boom just below centerline sailing upwind and thus forgoes a traveler track. The sheeting system for the 110% genoa is a sophisticated floating lead, with dual offset lead adjustments allowing for movement inboard and outboard, and up and down. I was able to manipulate the jib shape significantly and intuitively which, for a racing jib trimmer like me, was pleasing on a cruising boat.

In our perfect moderate breeze, it was impossible not to feel how well the design worked together. Heeled comfortably to its stable chine, the hull shape driving forward without a tendency to round-up, all with a gentle bit of “feel” in the helm — it was astonishingly good. The 380 has twin rudders, and for once I didn’t miss the feel of a single rudder as the 380 absorbed the puffs in stride and the helm gave a mild response as the boat moved easily forward. In Lake Union’s flat water, I didn’t feel the buoyant scow-bow motion, but I am confident it would have felt well-matched to the rest of the design were the breeze conditions paired with waves. I couldn’t say without trying its roller-furling alternative, but I suspect the additional sail area of the square-top main contributed to the good experience, since the total sail area isn’t huge.

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The spacious salon of the two-cabin interior configuration.

We cruised at all points of sail, and the boat only seemed to slow down on the broadest reach — an angle that has particular compromises with the aft-sweep of the rig’s spreaders anyway.

If I were purchasing this boat, you can be sure I’d also be excited to add the furling Code Zero to rig off of the bowsprit. Still, the two sails of the Performance package left me awfully impressed on their own.

Speaking of the bowsprit, not that we used it in our test, but the anchor roller is set well forward in the bowsprit, helping get it out over the negative bow shape. This aspect of the design is a good reminder that the 380 is striking a harmonious chord between the fun elements of a great sailing experience and still never losing sight of its ultimate use-case, which is comfortable cruising with friends and family.

Enabling that cruising experience is a thoughtfully laid-out interior which, you guessed it, comes in a couple options. On our test day, I was able to look at both versions in person: a twocabin one-head layout that has a separate shower room and a big storage garage space, and a three-cabin two-head version in which the third cabin uses the space of the separate shower and storage garage for more living quarters. Each serves its purpose well, with the two-cabin version clearly offering more storage and liveability for a couple or small family that might be cruising longer distances.

Regardless of the interior layout, the cabin is bright and spacious feeling with large portlights and no storage compartments above the main salon settees. There’s a fixed chart table to starboard facing aft, while the galley is to port. The galley isn’t enormous, but gives more room for comfortable seating around the table.

Remarkable on a boat of this size, the forward cabin retains standing head room, and has a large rectangular berth, giving it a real owner’s cabin vibe. The storage in each cabin isn’t worldbeating, but was ample enough to get me daydreaming about what I’d pack if I were to take a long trip up the Inside Passage.

Inside and out, the Jeanneau 380’s complex design priorities and innovative bells-and-whistles are well balanced and work together seamlessly. Especially in this Performance configuration, the 380 really is the whole package of a modern cruising boat for folks who want a great experience under sail.

Joe Cline is the Managing Editor of 48° North. Special thanks to Marine Servicenter for taking us sailing.

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NOVEMBER 2023

by Jennifer Dalton

DANCING BEAR MAGIC A PASSAGE FROM HAIDA GWAII TO TOFINO BRINGS BIG WINDS, SEAS AND LEARNING OPPORTUNITIES.

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n July 3, 2023, there was a decision to be made by the captain and crew aboard the Cal 40, Dancing Bear, on the last leg of our circumnavigation of Vancouver Island and Haida Gwaii. A weather alert called for northerly gale force winds for three-and-a-half days at the top end of Haida Gwaii in British Columbia.

Hall of Fame solo sailor Mark Schrader and my husband, Mark Dalton, and I were hunkered down and discussing our options in exactly that location, in Langara Island’s Beal Cove off the 48º NORTH

northwest tip of Haida Gwaii. To avoid confusion, I’ll refer to the two Marks as Schrader and Mark D, the latter of whom had joined us days earlier in Daajing Giids, switching places with Herb McCormick. We had just spent a couple of days pounding through very rough sailing conditions on the northern end of Graham Island and things had been rattled and broken during the passage.

We were tired and salty, but we’d arrived at our northernmost destination, Langara Fishing Lodge.

I had worked for several summers at

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this remote, exclusive lodge more than 30 years ago. When I left, I had always dreamed of sailing back one day, and I was beyond excited to be there once again and to still know people who worked there. Lodge Manager Bill Gibson greeted us. He hugged me and then instantly reminded me of when he had busted Suzzanne, Ian, and me under the galley in our ‘speakeasy’ made of storage boxes when hard alcohol had been prohibited for the staff. He had heard us giggling beneath the floorboards of the galley. When he found us, we were drinking the booze we had ordered as our “cooking” supply.

We spent that afternoon touring the lodge, where we were treated like royalty.

I reminisced with my friend and Langara’s Guest Service Manager, Suzzanne Lopez — yes, my fellow speakeasy member.

They served us lattes and loads of freshly baked pastries. We wandered the lodge halls, revisited my old bedroom, the guest suites I cleaned as a chambermaid, and the galley I managed. The crew was so kind and welcoming. They even had me sign a crew book as an alumnus galley girl. Guest pictures hung in the hallways, familiar faces I recognized, like Bob Hope. When he spent time in the galley while I was manager, he shared the most remarkable stories. I loved reliving those days at Langara Lodge, where the people and the experiences were incredible and life-changing.

Now, we were here in a very different capacity. After finishing our lodge tour, NOVEMBER 2023

Suzzanne Lopez, Guest Services, Langara Fishing Lodge, and Jennifer Dalton reunited after 30 years.

Schrader, Mark D, and I relaxed in the cockpit of Dancing Bear, watching a sea lion in the bay. The channel between Beal Cove and Lucy Island ripped with a steady current. We sipped on some tea and discussed the next leg of our trip.

Schrader had heard the weather alert for the gale force northerly earlier and wanted to talk to us about the potential conditions and ask for our opinion.

Mark D was concerned about going out in the open water during the wind storm and thought it might be best to stay hunkered in Beal Cove to wait for a better weather window. I looked over at Schrader. He was quiet and contemplative.

He asked me what I thought. I took a sip of my tea and pretended to deliberate, but my heart beat loudly because I knew what I wanted to do. I told them that if he thought it was okay to go out, then that’s what I wanted to do. A slight smile illuminated from behind the white in Schrader’s beard, but my husband was not smiling. I completely understood his resistance. I also knew he might have been the voice of reason at this point, but I was willing to go wherever Schrader thought possible. I was one hundred percent committed.

Schrader sat on the coaming of the cockpit. His pants were covered in salt.

His face was wind-worn and red. Pigeon Guillemots swam close to the boat, waiting to hop back on the deck. He had been listening to us intently, mulling over our opinions. His one request on this trip had been to get in some open 48º NORTH

ocean sailing. I asked him if he thought we could handle the storm. He nodded and said that he thought we could. He wanted to go at least 25 miles off the north tip of the island and use the storm to our advantage. I bit my lip, trying to conceal my smile — I couldn’t look at my husband, he’d see right through me.

I was ecstatic! I took a deep breath and told Mark D I understood his hesitancy and that Langara Lodge would help him fly out if he didn’t want to go with us.

The time was now to pull out. It was his decision to make, but I was clear. I was going.

We returned to the lodge for dinner that evening and, still full and tipsy from the exquisite prime rib and wine to which we’d been treated, I lay awake in the bed made up in Dancing Bear’s cockpit. If I sat up, I could look across at Dadens, an old trading post and Haida Village. My mind could have been spinning with memories or curiosities about the lives of people in Dadens, but it was on only one thing: on our upcoming journey. Schrader wanted some open-water sailing, and I was excited about the experience. After some years away from it, he had reopened my eyes to the love of sailing and I had already resolved that more extensive sailing was in my future. The learning opportunities with him would be invaluable. I tossed and turned, listening to the sound of the channel as it switched to an ebb and flowed like a river only feet from where we were anchored, but eventually I fell asleep.

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It was an early start, 5 a.m. on July 4, and I awoke to find that the fog had covered my blanket in a layer of moisture.

My eyes, lips, face, and fingers were swollen, signs of the extreme elements wearing on my body. I climbed down into the cabin. The fireplace was glowing with warmth and I was grateful that Schrader had been able to fix a propane issue we had after our bumpy crossing. He had also fixed the toilet seat I had broken. A string now tied it down. Lucky me… gale force winds and a string to hold me on the toilet!

We went quietly about our business of getting ready and preparing the boat.

Mark D had decided that he wouldn’t fly out. He was going to stay. I put hot water on the stove for our coffee and tea. There were already keen fishermen speeding by going out for their last chance at fishing before the storm. I changed into my heavy foul weather gear and Schrader handed me a warm cup of coffee when I emerged from the V-berth. I carried it up on deck and began to pull the anchor.

It was foggy, flat, and disorienting in Parry Passage. This was the weather I had been used to when I worked here. I had expected fog and rainy conditions on this trip. However, Haida Gwaii had been experiencing an unusually long high pressure system for the past two weeks and, for the most part, we had lucked out with exceptional weather.

We motored past Langara Lodge and pointed Dancing Bear’s bow westward.

I was putting a second reef into our NOVEMBER 2023

Schrader (L) and Mark D (R) enjoying the last 25 miles of sailing off the west coast of Vancouver Island.

mainsail when a fishing boat from the lodge sped toward us out of the fog. I waved both arms to catch its attention because we were on a collision course.

But then I saw the flag — a Haida flag. It was my friend, Frank Williams, a fishing guide from Haida Gwaii. I hadn’t seen him for over 30 years. Frank is a quiet, gentle soul and an artist, one of his paintings has hung in my kitchen for the past three decades. He had been guiding guests when I visited the lodge the day before, so I didn’t have the chance to visit with him. I waved frantically. He pulled up alongside Dancing Bear. I made a heart shape with my hands and held it over my chest. He did the same. We air-hugged each other from our respective boats. But Dancing Bear and crew stayed the course, we had miles to put behind us. I blew a farewell kiss as we continued into the mystic.

The water was calm and everything was gray. I thought of Herb McCormick, who had been with us on the first half of this trip. He would have commented on the 50 shades of gray, making me chuckle.

I missed him and wished he could have 48º NORTH

joined us for this leg. We continued and soon, all signs of land disappeared. I double-checked our lines and the reefs in the main. We hadn’t bothered to put up the jib. I went below and ensured everything was stowed in preparation for the high winds and seas. When I returned to the cockpit, a large group of humpbacks swam past us. They slapped their fins as they rolled around. It would have been an amazing hydrophone experience, but again, we didn’t stop. Schrader wanted to be 25 miles out in the open ocean before the storm was on us.

Throughout the day, the swell came at us from two directions, west and north, and the wind was a steady northerly. The gale would be upon us by the evening. I was on watch, harnessed in the cockpit in my full foulies and saw 34 knots on our electronics and my Navionics. The swell was steep, 15-20 feet. By twilight, the waves were about 25 feet, and I looked up into the white froth of cresting waves.

The waves were crashing into the cockpit, and Schrader ordered me inside. Dancing Bear was to weather this alone, with sail reefed and autopilot on. I went into the

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cabin and we closed the companionway hatch behind me. We continued our watches in shifts but from the main salon.

My next shift started at midnight. I made some tea and sipped it perched at the navigation station. The glowing lights from the screen and a red light in the galley were a beacon of comfort in the dark cabin while both Marks slept. I braced myself between the stairs and the galley sink and held on to the handholds to boil more water for tea. The most challenging part for me was not being able to be outside, but I was also grateful to be warm and dry.

The hours ticked by slowly, and I listened to Dancing Bear’s mast quiver and moan as we rode the enormous waves. At first, I was concerned by this noise, but as I listened, I realized it was almost like purring — Dancing Bear was having fun. I snuggled under a blanket by the fire but kept a firm grip on the cooler beside me and one hand holding the table so I wouldn’t be thrown out of my seat.

Though Dancing Bear surfed easily down the steep swell, the pitching felt NOVEMBER 2023

ominous. About every fifth or sixth set of waves would smack at a side angle and ring loudly through the hull, shaking Dancing Bear to the core. At some point deep in the night, while sleeping strapped into the upper bunk, I was awakened by such a hard slap that I thought we might be rolling. But we were safe and Dancing Bear held the course.

The following morning, the winds had eased to 22-30 knots and we could go back outside. It was sunny and windy and the swell was down to 10 feet. I harnessed in as I climbed on deck. Standing in the cockpit, I felt the connection with both Dancing Bear and the water. I was a windsurfer for many years and now I was surfing with this beautiful Cal 40. I spotted a large bird lifting off waves and making the most graceful turns on the water. I asked Schrader to pass me the bird book, and I identified it as a Blackfooted Albatross. It danced and swooped alongside for many miles. As soon as it disappeared, another would show up.

Our course was set and the mainsail was still double-reefed — there wasn’t a lot to do except hold on and enjoy the scenery, and there was so much to enjoy.

Schrader and I were on watch that afternoon when I saw a sizeable fin come up 10 feet from the boat’s hull. It

moved like a shark and turned and slid behind us. It blended with the ocean, and I wasn’t sure if I was hallucinating. I asked Schrader if he’d seen it as well, and he had.

By day three, Dancing Bear had been handling the winds well, except the main sail was beginning to separate from the mast from the top down. Schrader asked me to help him unroll the jib and drop the main. I clipped into the jackline, braced myself, and crawled up the deck to the mast. We worked on a temporary solution, hoping it would hold until we made landfall in Tofino.

It had been long days of pitching from the top end of Haida Gwaii down to Tofino, and it was starting to wear on the captain and crew. We had been doing 2-4 hour shifts for days and I hadn’t changed out of my clothes. For amusement, I made videos for my friends and family, practiced my knots, and dreamed of future sailing plans because reading and writing were nearly impossible.

Truthfully, I loved every damn minute of it all, but my body was weary. It had been contorting and flexing every minute of every day as we surfed gracefully through the Pacific swell.

We had booked down the west coast of Haida Gwaii and half of Vancouver Island

An end of voyage rite of passage in Tofino; Mark Schrader pulled the author’s manual inflate on her PFD.

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at tremendous speeds. The wind and sea conditions finally calmed as we neared Tofino Inlet. By the time we arrived at the transient docks, it was late afternoon. My adrenaline had been pumping for days and I was on a high the likes of which I had rarely known. Schrader asked Mark D to take a picture of us before we got out of our gear. I was covered in salt and my hair was matted from wind and brine, and I was in bad need of a shower and change of clothes, but I jumped onto the dock and wrapped my arms around Schrader anyway. As Mark D took the picture, Schrader pulled the cord on my lifejacket and it inflated. It was my rite of passage for completing my open-water passage and I happily accepted it. As Schrader would say, “Who does this anyway?”

Dancing Bear does.

Jennifer Dalton is an avid adventurer and traveler. She is originally from Vancouver, B.C. but raised her children in Washington. Now an empty nester, Jennifer has rediscovered her love and passion for sailing. She began her love for the wind and water when she was a teenager and has always spent time on the ocean whether it be windsurfing, kayaking, sailing, or diving. She is the owner of the marketing company Mark Dalton and Mark Schrader in Tofino, B.C. after ripping down the west coast of British Columbia on Schrader’s Cal 40, Dancing Bear.

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NOVEMBER 2023

SAILING WITH STRANGERS FINDING WORLDWIDE VOYAGING EXPERIENCES ABOARD OTHER PEOPLE’S BOATS

by Paul Mais

I

n the Pacific Northwest, we are truly blessed to sail upon the amazing waters of the Salish Sea. Spending my formative years racing and cruising around southern Vancouver Island was a great playground to learn about tides and winds. But, like many others, I wanted to branch out and try my hand in waters farther afield. In order to do so, I searched out opportunities and experiences as an amateur crew in various parts of the world.

Responding to crew advertisements like the likely-mythical one associated with Ernest Shackleton’s expedition is not quite the journey most of us are after: “MEN WANTED for hazardous journey, small wages, bitter cold, long months of complete darkness, constant danger, safe return doubtful, honor and 48º NORTH

recognition in case of success.” Most of us would probably choose a voyage with fewer hazards and less of that bitter cold.

Many cruisers take up this adventure on our own vessels; alternatively, crewing on other people’s boats can be a great option.

In a departure from the familiar waters of the Salish Sea, I have recently taken on the challenge of captaining my own boat, a Beneteau First 405, from South Carolina south through the Caribbean to Grenada. However, prior to this I sought out a number of crewing opportunities to practice sailing in foreign waters and working with different crews and skippers.

These days, coming across crewing opportunities is surprisingly easy.

Innumerable websites are dedicated to matching skippers and crew. Professional services such as CrewSeekers, Offshore

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Passage Opportunities, OceanCrewLink, user-run pages on Facebook, and others provide opportunities to join boats for every type of voyage from day sailing to months-long offshore passages.

I’ve had the pleasure of joining three very different voyages in different parts of the world through online connections — two were through OceanCrewLink and one was from Facebook. I chose OceanCrewLink for its connection to the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (better known as the “ARC”) series, and its reasonable cost structure. The model for most of these sites is very similar; potential crew and skippers can browse advertisements, but must pay to access contact information. You will be asked to create a profile with photos, your experience, and other information. And yes, insert your internet dating jokes here.

My first journey with OceanCrewLink NOVEMBER 2023

Finding a boat looking for crew is now easier than ever, like this delivery connection the author found through OceanCrewLink.

was a delivery from just south of Barcelona, Spain, to Ipswitch, on the east coast of the UK. The route sounded like a great mix of coastal hops and longer multi-day passages; the fact that the owner was delivering a beautiful newto-him navy blue Swan 46 helped sell the deal a little too! After flying halfway around the world, taking a three hour train, a short cab ride, and trying to pronounce “yacht club” in broken Spanish, I found the correct marina and the boat at about 11 p.m. Trying to communicate clearly with my crew — two of whom had thick English accents and the other was from Finland — was best left for the morning.

This was a delivery, so we kept moving, hopping along the coast with a small break in Gibraltar while the owner did some work for a few days. We stepped up the action with two four-day passages up the coast of Portugal and then across the Bay of Biscay to Plymouth. We finished with more marina hopping along the picturesque southern English coast. As a first crack in my effort to build ocean miles and experience by joining a crew with other sailors, this first journey was a big success.

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In the summer of 2022, I spent eight weeks cruising Norway, Denmark, and Sweden onboard a Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 49. This was another OceanCrewLink connection. Once again, it involved a late-night arrival to an unknown town in a country where I didn’t speak the language. Luckily, the owner met me at the airport and I didn’t have to pronounce “yacht club” in Norwegian. The first three weeks were spent with the owner and another young German crew exploring the Norwegian coast north up to Bergen.

The owner was Swedish and we all spoke English, but it took some time to catch up with the differences in accents and boat terminology. My fellow German crewmate was a chef, which provided some invaluable culinary help on the trip; he soon had to return to work. As such, I spent some time with just the owner before his brother and another friend joined. Cruising doublehanded with the owner gave the trip a new, fun dynamic. Listening to the owner tell stories of his many adventures including a circumnavigation and his rescue during the infamous 1979 Fastnet Race was just one of the perks. Sailing through the

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fjords, inland waterways, and rock strewn archipelagos is truly awe inspiring and even with the rain and fog in July, I will be returning. And as with the first online-aided crewing experience, this exposed me to new waters, new cruising knowledge, more miles, and another stepping stone toward my own sailing dreams.

Through Facebook, I made a connection and spent three fun weeks in Mexico crossing the Sea of Cortez.

This sailing gig was to help a couple with a very small part of their dream to sail around to the Caribbean. They had departed from Seattle on a Bénéteau First 45F5 and were often looking for an extra set of hands for longer passages.

An interesting, and very modern, catch was that the skipper was still working remotely, so our itinerary had to be based around traveling only between Friday and Sunday. It goes without saying this trip was a very welcome change from the Pacific Northwest in February.

At this point, you might be asking yourself: “Am I just jumping on any neat sounding opportunity?” Well, yes, but not without some investigation NOVEMBER 2023

The author spent eight weeks on this Sun Odyssey 49 cruising Scandinavia.

The Swedish Jeanneau skipper (left), young fellow crewmate and chef (middle), and author (right).

A Facebook connection brought the author to cruise with this boat on the Sea of Cortez.

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ahead of time. Once connected with a skipper, I usually fire back and forth a few emails to clarify the basic plan, including dates, costs, and destinations, before proceeding to a video chat. This gives me time to feel out the owner. I usually have decided whether or not I’d be comfortable joining a boat before I even get to the video stage. I recommend asking about the skipper’s expectations for the new crew, how it has gone with other crew aboard, and where they felt there had been challenges. One skipper did a group video chat with me and the other crew, which I thought was a great idea. Once I feel that we could be a good fit, I also ask to contact any past crew for second opinions and try to provide any similar references for the owner. I ask past crew about the level of maintenance of the boat and the captain’s style of leadership.

Not all offers have seemed like the right fit and I’ve backed out for a few reasons.

A number of people wanted crew on too short notice; and in a few cases, I just haven’t felt comfortable with the owner or my impressions of their plan.

It’s important to have some prepared questions so the interview doesn’t just turn into a monologue from the skipper about their plan and then asking at the end, “So, are you in?”

Questions related to emergency equipment, who else will be on board, and why they are looking for extra crew are important. Ask very specifically about costs and sleeping arrangements. I’ve lucked out in always having my own cabin (apart from choosing the main cabin floor over the V-berth in particularly lumpy weather off Portugal).

On all of my trips, and even just day sailing with new crews, there has been some inevitably awkward dynamics when instructions aren’t clear, or when trying to adapt to new styles of working the boat.

So even once you’ve joined a crew, asking specific questions is a great idea, such as, “As skipper, how do you like the lines run when coming into a dock?” A question like this shows that you know dockline arrangements are needed, but you’re also acknowledging that each skipper will have their own preferences.

I’ve also contacted a number of skippers through Facebook postings. Groups such NOVEMBER 2023

as “Find Crew Be Crew” and “Sailboat Crewfinder Worldwide” are just two examples. As with all free social media connections, these can be a bit more hit or miss. I’m sure these posts receive a great number of responses and it would be more difficult to filter appropriate candidates.

This is a good place to bring up some concerns. Many stories exist about crew being harassed or taken advantage of in various ways due to differences in gender, age, and experience. Specific Facebook pages exist for female sailors listing captains to be avoided as, sadly, it’s all too common for “looking for crew” turning into “looking for companionship” without the skipper being upfront. From speaking with other crews, conflicts most often occur due to unclear or changing expectations.

There is much discussion about whether casual crew should be paid or, as it now seems more common, how much they should pay to join a voyage. Clearly, crew and skippers are often hired for deliveries, but this would be in a professional capacity. Forking over cash comes down

to personal preference around the value you place on a particular voyage. It’s not surprising, we pay for special experiences all the time, from eating out to zip-lining on vacation. Personally, I’ve always looked for opportunities where the expenses are shared. On all three of my sailing with strangers trips, food expenses were shared and boat costs were covered by the owner. I’ve found this to be a good balance. The crew can bond over shopping and sharing recipes, and I don’t feel as though the owner is hosting crew purely to pay for the boat expenses. I’m happy to offer my skilled labor in exchange for a unique sailing trip. With my level of experience, I have encountered captains who thought I was looking to be a paid hand. This could create an environment where the captain might feel the need to defend their leadership, and I don’t want to be at their beck and call.

Along these lines, “shared experiences” opportunities are increasingly common.

These vessels charge crew to join for a particular experience, varying from day sails to multi-day excursions. Since these are advertised specifically not as

charter companies, I might be concerned with legalities should an incident occur, and I’ve found it difficult for numerous skippers to quantify their prices. The rules and regulations may vary from one country to another, and I’d encourage crew exploring these opportunities to approach with caution and be rigorous in their evaluation process.

As always, meeting random strangers on the internet carries risk. Jumping on a sailboat in another part of the world with a random stranger is another thing altogether. Ask lots of questions, be specific, trust your gut, and do enough talking and research so that your new crewmates aren’t complete strangers when you arrive. Lots of people want extra help aboard, so give it a shot. There are some amazing opportunities on the waters of the world, and more avenues than ever to connect with other sailors.

Paul Mais is a west coast Canadian presently exploring the Caribbean aboard his Beneteau First 405, SV Jamar. All photos courtesy of the author.

If you've got the itch to sail more miles in distant waters, voyaging on other people's boats can be a great option.

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NOVEMBER 2023

RUM RUN

2023 R

by Mike Danger Adams

DUCK DODGE’S AWESOME AUTUMN TRADITION

um Run, Duck Dodge’s end-of-the-season sailing event, was held September 30 on Puget Sound instead of Seattle’s Lake Union. Rum Run marks the end of the 49th season of the summertime sailing series. Duck Dodge is a low stakes sailing event that is more of a community sail and gathering than it is a race. There is no pre-registration for Duck Dodge events, no fees to participate, no club affiliation requirements, and which boats to sail with is up to each skipper’s self-selection — and Rum Run shares the same approach and values.

Jeff Blyth of the Catalina 36, Mata Hari, shared this when considering which start they should choose for Rum Run: “The crew of Mata Hari started off the pre-race planning with a hard decision. Do we start in the second class of fast(er) boats that know what they’re doing, or do we happily go to the third start of slightly slower boats, and thoroughly enjoy the day? After contemplating hard and asking fellow participants which start they were planning, the full rum bottle made the decision for us — we decided on the third start.”

As a Duck Dodge event, the first three boats in each of the four starts to complete the course get to proudly claim a vinyl duck sticker, while the first overall finisher is also gifted a pint of Kraken Rum. Rum Run begins outside of Shilshole Bay Marina and finishes in Bainbridge Island’s Port Madison with a traditional Duck Dodge raft-up. Rum Run attracts a slightly different crowd of boats than is typical on Lake Union. Many of the Tuesday night participants made the trek through the locks to join up on the Sound, but many saltwater boats that usually don’t lock through for Tuesdays joined in on the fun too. This year’s Rum Run saw just shy of 50 boats, ranging in size from a San Juan 24 to an Andrews 70.

The conditions for this year’s event could not have been better.

The northerly wind held steady at 9-14 knots for the entirety 48º NORTH

of the sailing portion of the event, and the sea state was calm.

The course was set to take boats from the start around Meadow Point for a spinnaker run down to West Point, before a close reach across Puget Sound to Point Monroe. The sailing conditions were so favorable that four of the fast boats from the first start arrived at the course finish before the committee boat was able to be on station at Port Madison. The Andrews 70, Runaway, arrived a good 15 minutes ahead!

As the committee boat weighed anchor to head over to Port Madison, a beautiful parade of colorful kites could be seen headed from Meadow Point to West Point, lit up by the early fall sunshine.

Once on station at Port Madison, a steady stream of participants popped into view coming around the corner from West Point, all making their way in the moderate breeze.

Blyth and the Mata Hari crew described this leg like this: “It soon became clear that the last leg would be generally upwind, so our desire for outpacing the rest of our start faded, since we are slower upwind than down. Regardless, we kept our foot on the accelerator and came within a hundred feet of the leader at one point. They had a better angle, and we were being shadowed by some faster boats in other classes. As we approached the finish, our competition pulled ahead and beat us to the finish line just behind Point Monroe. We did, however, secure a bronze duck sticker for our efforts!”

Laughter and joyful cheers could be heard from each boat as they passed through the gate at the end of the course. All 47 participating boats completed the course in less than 3 hours and the committee boat was able to join the raft early for the post race celebration.

The raft-up in Port Madison was 25 boats strong at its largest, with at least a few boats joining the raft without participating in the sailing portion of the event. The breeze lightened just as the

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NOVEMBER 2023

The course gave sailors a lovely spinnaker run between Meadow Point and West Point.

Close roundings and some sea life at the Meadow Point Buoy. raft festivities were getting underway. Inspired by the warm sun, there were even a half-dozen swimmers off the back of the raft in the chilly waters of Port Madison. Wandering down the raft, the consensus was clear; everyone that was out for the day had a blast.

A bit after the raft had gotten into full swing, a cannon was fired, followed by a moment of silence and a short speech to honor the recent loss of Cheri Trainor, an amazing and well revered member of our sailing community that connected so many people and made anyone she encountered feel welcomed to become a sailor.

It was a special moment and served as a reminder of how strong the relationships are within the sailing world, and the Duck Dodge community especially. Afterward, the celebration of another fantastic year of Duck Dodge events continued.

One of the crew on the Wylie 34 20 Degrees, April, commented,

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“Before last year, it had been years since I sailed in the Rum Run. The sailing was exhilarating, especially finishing neck and neck with two other boats in our start. The weather was perfect, and the raft-up was fun. I was impressed how crew from different boats worked together to close the gaps as boats left. It was special that we honored Cheri Trainor that day, and it reminded me that I met her for the first time at the raft-up at last year’s Rum Run. On our way back to Shilshole we were able to catch a glimpse of two humpback whales diving mid-channel.”

This year’s Rum Run was a resounding success. We couldn’t ask for better weather, or better people to enjoy the day with.

The next season is year 50 for Duck Dodge, and I’m excited to see what it brings!

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Feature photo by Shez Tucker. Page 45 photos by Chris Webb.

NOVEMBER 2023

FALL FUN AT W CYC’S PSSC

by Joe Cline

SMALL AND BIG BOATS

Photo by Ron Rosenberg.

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hen Seattle starts to turn autumn gold, you’ll find the region’s sailors taking to the waters outside of Shilshole Bay Marina to contest CYC's Puget Sound Sailing Championship (PSSC). Divided into two weekends of racing in October — one for “Small Boats” and another for “Big Boats” — the regatta is a buoy racing extravaganza and one of the capstone events of the year. It’s a heck of a lot of fun, too!

The 2023 edition of PSSC brought the smaller boats together on September 30 and October 1, while the larger boats were out October 14 and 15.

PSSC Small Boats saw awesome turnout and superb competition in one-design keelboat classes — J/24s, J/70s, San Juan 24s, and VX1s — as well as dinghy racing in RS Aeros, Melges 15s, and Tasars.

The Big Boat event had more variety, with boats ranging from 24 to 52 feet sailing in seven classes both one-design (Melges 24s, J/105s, and J/80s), PHRF, ORC, and one class using both PHRF and ORC. Sunny skies and a mild northerly breeze meant that Saturday of PSSC Small Boats left everyone smiling. J/70 Fleet leader, coach and J/Pod founder, Ron Rosenberg said this of Saturday’s racing: “What a spectacular day of racing out of Shilshole!” As many as six racers were scored that day in some classes — can’t beat that!

The breeze lightened up a bit on Sunday, but still allowed for some excellent racing, as many as four races were scored in some classes.

Reflecting on the weekend as a whole, Chris Roberts who was sailing on the J/24 Suspense, “Great weekend of sailing!”

Notably Suspense wound up 3rd in the J/24 fleet, but that was enough for them to snag a berth to the 2024 J/24 World Championship in Seattle. Rosenberg summed up PSSC Small, “That was some great, close quarters racing.”

When the dust settled on PSSC Small Boats, the top spots on the podiums went to Trevor Tunnecliffe on the VX1 Bee, Keith Hammer sailing his RS Aero Magic Man, Steve Trunkey took nine straight bullets on his Megles 15 Vehicular Spray, NOVEMBER 2023

A close leeward mark rounding between Annapurna, Tachyon, Shrek, and Absolutley in the hotly contested group racing under both ORC and PHRF. Photo by Joe Cline.

the dynamic Jackson duo their Tasar Maple Sugar, Jacob Lichtenberg’s Hair of the Dog in the J/24 class, Andrew Loe’s Dime in the J/70 fleet, and Remmert Wolters’ Grauer Geist crew among the San Juan 24s.

While the PSSC Small fleet got in two great days of racing, the Big Boat fleets had to settle for one after a no-wind Sunday. But Saturday was a lovely day for racing, under gray skies rather than blue.

A total of 55 boats were out on Saturday, and they were primarily rewarded with breeze that started as a 6-12 knot southerly, before shifting to a lighter westerly and back to a stronger southerly to finish the day.

The J/105s boasted the largest fleet in the big boat group, with 13 registered and 12 boats on the water. Al Hughes had this to say of the J/105 competition on Saturday: “Light southerlies greeted the 12 boats out on Saturday. After a modest delay waiting for the wind to settle on a mostly consistent direction, the RC got the boats started. Insubordination started the day off right with a solid bullet, showing a good start and good choices on the course, which had a lot of light spots and shifts. Jaded also showed good smarts and speed to come up to second. Creative rallied to just nip Moose Unknown on a highly skewed finish line. The second race was more of the same from Insubordination but this time followed by Puff and another good showing by Jaded and then Moose. The third race shuttled the standings a bit with Moose leading right from the start holding off Peer Gynt, Jaded, and Puff.

48º NORTH

There was a little wind intermission before a slightly stronger southerly filled in at the end of the day. The race committee got in one more race, which Peer Gynt won wire to wire followed by Creative and Puff.”

In other classes, the racing was tight and enjoyable, with close crossings and roundings throughout the fleets. John Padgett, sailing the J/80 Jalepeño said, “We sailed well but far from the podium, had a ton of fun, and met a lot of other great J/80 sailors.”

Peter Nelson was sailing with the Farr 39CR Tachyon and said, “Congratulations to Nicholas Leede and the crew of Tachyon for 1st place in the PHRF Division and 2nd place in ORC in a very competitive fleet. The boat was moving well, and our crew work was nearly flawless.”

That group of fast boats between 3545 feet sailed sailed in two classes under

ORC and PHRF respectively, and the top two podium swapped under the two scoring systems, with Tachyon taking 1st ahead of John Hoag’s 1D35 Shrek under PHRF; while Shrek beat out Tachyon when the ORC handicap was applied to the same racing. Interesting!

Around the rest of the fleet, top honors went to Michael Fagundo’s Farr 30 Bat Out Of Hell, Herb Cole’s Judo Chop (who beat Matt Macgregor’s Good Enough on a tiebreaker) won the Melges 24 class, Sarah Hampson’s High Five came 1st in then J/80 fleet, and Ben Towry’s Capri 25 Little Wing won PHRF Class 7, and John Buchan’s TP52 Glory won ORC 8.

Predictably, PSSC delivered some terrific racing and brought together a wonderfully wide range of classes and sailors. The regatta is an autumn tradition, and 2023 certainly carried that torch well.

Great sailing and good times in the J/80 class, from the front to the back of the fleet.

Photo by Judy Ibanez.

47

NOVEMBER 2023

RACE YOUR HOUSE

SLOOP TAVERN YACHT CLUB’S ANNUAL RACE FOR LIVEABOARD SAILORS

by Morris Lowitz

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n late October, Sloop Tavern Yacht Club hosted its annual Race Your House. Race your house is one of my favorite events of the year because, instead of the usual suspects we see at most regattas, we get to see the incredible assortment of boats people call home. It is a time to race in your most comfortable sailing attire, and our whole crew enjoyed the comforts of home and raced in slippers aboard my Jeanneau 44i, Keala, a welcome change from the boots and foulies of J/80 racing.

Other competitors in the 2023 edition of Race Your House ranged from full keel heavy displacement cruising yachts to the Santa Cruz 52 Escargot, and the fleet was divided into six classes, which included flying and non-flying sails, and multihulls.

For me, as I know is true for other liveaboards, Race Your House truly starts the night before, packing up the boat and clearing the counters to transition from liveaboard cruiser to race boat getting ready to heel. Though it takes some work, it’s a rewarding exercise, and a good practice for those of us who do try to go sailing on our houses somewhat regularly.

This year, Al Hughes was the PRO on his house, the Mary H. The course had us going first to Meadow Point, then across the sound to a temporary mark near Port Madison, back across the sound to the green entrance buoy at the ship canal, and then to the finish.

After the start, the fleet split, with boats heading out or going in to bang the shore at Golden Gardens. As one of the boats going in to play the usual game of chicken with the beach, it is an entirely different experience when it’s your house on the line!

After rounding Meadow Point, the fleet turned and headed across Puget Sound. The first few classes made it almost 90% of the way there before the wind shut off. The rest of the fleet got stalled out a bit earlier, but continued plodding slowly toward the north end of Bainbridge.

When the wind shut off and all the boats were drifting together around the temporary mark, there was an opportunity for some on-the-water socializing, and even some sharing of snacks. We passed on the last of our cinnamon rolls, baked below on the first windward leg, with friends on a nearby racehouse.

The temporary mark turned out to be a big restart, with the fleet tactically drifting around the mark and trying to dodge the rest of the boats in tight quarters with little steerage. Thankfully, the wind eventually returned, and the houses were off to the E mark at the entrance to the ship canal.

For the ride back towards Shilshole, we enjoyed one of the best parts of this race — being on boats with full galleys.

Cooking underway has become a tradition for us during Race Your House. This year, we made pierogi and grilled onions for the return trip. That’s some tasty racing!

After rounding the E mark, it was just a short couple of tacks back upwind to the finish to complete another successful Race Your House. It truly is one of the best days of sailing each year, a chance for us to see what our houses can do, and blend these seemingly divergent aspects of boat life into one fun day on the water shared among friends.

The Keala crew's sailing slippers.

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Mmmm... race-baked cinnamon buns.

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In Stock-Sale Priced!

In Stock-Sale Priced!

2023 2023Jeanneau Jeanneau380 3802C/1H 2C/1H#77291: #77291:$329,795 $329,795••SAVE SAVE$60,015 $60,015 2023Jeanneau Jeanneau410 410#77420: #77420: $429,875 $429,875••SAVE SAVE$21,455 $21,455 2023 2023 Jeanneau Jeanneau 380 380 3C/2H 3C/2H #77421: #77421: $359,896 $359,896 • • SAVE SAVE $40,505 $40,505 2C/1H #77291: $329,795 $60,015 2023 Jeanneau 380 2C/1H #77291: $329,795 • SAVE $60,015 2023 2023 Jeanneau 410 #77420: $429,875 • SAVE $21,455 2023 Jeanneau 380 3C/2H #77421: $359,896 • SAVE $40,505 2023 Jeanneau 410 #77420: $429,875 • SAVE $21,455 2023 Jeanneau 380 3C/2H #77421: $359,896 • SAVE $40,505 Just Just Arrived!

Arrived!

InInStock-Sale Stock-Sale Priced!

Priced!

JustJust Arrived!

Arrived!

In Stock-Sale Priced!

In Stock-Sale Priced!

2024 2024Jeanneau Jeanneau440 440#77930: #77930:$549,684 $549,684••SAVE SAVE$36,709 $36,709 2024 Jeanneau 440 #77930: $549,684 • SAVE $36,709 2024 Jeanneau 440 #77930: $549,684 • SAVE $36,709

2023 2023Jeanneau Jeanneau490 490#77424: #77424: $654,896 $654,896••SAVE SAVE$42,089 $42,089 2023 Jeanneau 490 #77424: $654,896 • SAVE $42,089 2023 Jeanneau 490 #77424: $654,896 • SAVE $42,089

2024 2024Jeanneau Jeanneau349 349Ltd LtdEd Ed#77925: #77925:$259,990 $259,990••SAVE SAVE$15,345 $15,345 2024 Jeanneau 349 Ltd Ed #77925: $259,990 • SAVE $15,345 Arrives Arrives January January Arrives ArrivesDec DecSAVE ‘24!

‘24! $15,345 2024 Jeanneau 349 Ltd Ed #77925: $259,990 •

2024 2024Lagoon Lagoon42 42#835: #835: $764,885 $764,885••SAVE SAVE$96,051 $96,051 2024 Lagoon 42 #835: $764,885 • SAVE $96,051 Ready Ready April $764,885 • SAVE $96,051 2024 Lagoon 42 April #835:

Just JustArrived!

Arrived!

JustJust Arrived!

Arrived!

Arrives January Arrives January

Arrives DecDec ‘24!‘24!

Arrives

2024 2024Jeanneau JeanneauYacht Yacht60 60#36 #36••$1,698,468 $1,698,468 Scow ScowBow BowHull Hull&&Walk WalkAround AroundDecks!

Decks!

2024 Jeanneau Yacht 60 #36 • $1,698,468 2024 Bow Jeanneau Yacht 60 #36 • $1,698,468 Scow Hull & Walk Around Decks!

Scow Bow Hull & Walk Around Decks!

New NewListing Listing NewNew Listing Listing

Just JustArrived!

Arrived!

JustJust Arrived!

Arrived!

Ready AprilApril Ready

2024 2024Jeanneau JeanneauYacht Yacht55 55#78845: #78845: $1,369,380 $1,369,380 Forward ForwardHardtop HardtopCockpit Cockpit&&Aft AftLounge LoungeAreas Areas 2024 Jeanneau Yacht 55 #78845: $1,369,380 2024 Jeanneau Yacht 55 #78845: $1,369,380 Forward Hardtop Cockpit & Aft Lounge Areas Forward Hardtop Cockpit & Aft Lounge Areas

2021Jeanneau Jeanneau490 490Perf.

Perf.••$609,500 $609,500 2018 2018Jeanneau JeanneauYacht Yacht51 51••$595,000 $595,000 2021

New NewListing Listing NewNew Listing Listing

2024 2024Lagoon Lagoon46 46--11SOLD! SOLD!••Inquire Inquire Owners OwnersVersion, Version,Flybridge Flybridgeand andMore!

More!

2024 Lagoon 46 -46 1 -SOLD! • Inquire 2024 Lagoon 1 SOLD! •More!

Inquire Owners Version, Flybridge and Owners Version, Flybridge and More!

2020 2020Jeanneau Jeanneau410 410••$359,500 $359,500

2021 Jeanneau 490490 Perf.Perf.

• $609,500 Jeanneau 410410 • $359,500 2018 Jeanneau Yacht 51 •51$595,000 2021 Jeanneau • $609,500 2020 2020 Jeanneau • $359,500 2018 Jeanneau Yacht • $595,000Reduced Reduced Reduced Reduced

Reduced Reduced

2022 2022Jeanneau Jeanneau410 410••$399,900 $399,900

Reduced Reduced

1999 1999Jeanneau Jeanneau40 40DS DS••$129,500 $129,500

1979 1979Morgan Morgan382 382••$35,000 $35,000

2022 Jeanneau 410410 • $399,900 1999 Jeanneau 40 DS 1979 Morgan 382382 • $35,000 2022 Jeanneau • $399,900 Reduced 1999 Jeanneau 40 • DS$129,500 • $129,500 New 1979 Morgan • $35,000 Reduced NewListing Listing

Reduced Reduced

NewNew Listing Listing

LISTINGS LISTINGSWANTED! WANTED!••WE WEGET GETRESULTS! RESULTS! See SeeYour YourBoat Boatininfull fullcolor colorinin48° 48°North!

North!

LISTINGS WANTED! • WE GET RESULTS! LISTINGS WANTED! • WE GET RESULTS! 62'62' Lagoon Lagoon620 620‘20 ‘20......................... .........................$1,199,500 $1,199,500 See Your Boat in full color in 48° North!

See Your Boat in‘15 full................ color in 48° North!

51'51' Jeanneau Jeanneau 509 509 Perf.

Perf.

‘15 ................ $489,500 $489,500 62'47' Jeanneau Lagoon 620469 ‘20 ......................... $1,199,500 62' Lagoon 620‘15 ‘20.................Sale ......................... $1,199,500 47' Jeanneau 469 ‘15 .................Sale Pending Pending 51'44' Jeanneau Jeanneau 509 ‘15 ................ $489,500 51' Jeanneau 509 Perf.

‘15 ................ $489,500 44' Jeanneau 44 44DSPerf.

DS ‘13 ‘13 .......................... ..........................

SOLD SOLD 47' 469 .................Sale Pending 47' Jeanneau 469 ‘15 .................Sale Pending 44'44' Jeanneau Jeanneau Jeanneau 4444DS‘15 DS ‘12 ‘12 ..............Sale ..............Sale Pending Pending 44' Jeanneau 44 DS ‘13 ..........................

SOLD 44' Jeanneau 44 DS ‘13 .......................... SOLD 44'44' Annapolis Annapolis 4444‘78.............................$59,500 ‘78.............................$59,500 44' Jeanneau 44 DS ‘12 ..............Sale Pending 44' Jeanneau 44 DS ‘12Listing ..............Sale Pending 38'38' C&C C&C MKII MKII'86'86.........New .........New Listing......$43,950 ......$43,950 44'36' Catalina Annapolis ‘78.............................$59,500 44' Annapolis 44.....................Sale ‘78.............................$59,500 36' Catalina 3644 36‘94 ‘94 .....................Sale Pending Pending 38' C&C MKII '86 .........New Listing ......$43,950 38' C&C '86 .........New Listing ......$43,950 35'35' O'Day O'Day 3535MKII MKII........New ........New Listing Listing ......$42,500 ......$42,500 36' 36 ‘94 .....................Sale Pending 36' Catalina 36‘00 ‘94 .....................Sale Pending 32'32' Catalina Catalina Catalina 320 320 ‘00 ............................... ...............................

SOLD SOLD 35' O'Day 35 MKII ........New Listing ......$42,500 35' O'Day 35 MKII ........New Listing ......$42,500 23'23' Tofinou Tofinou 2323‘94 ‘94.................................$37,000 .................................$37,000 32' Catalina 320 ‘00 SOLDSOLD 32' Catalina 320...............................

‘00 ...............................

23' Tofinou 23 ‘94 23' Tofinou 23.................................$37,000 ‘94 .................................$37,000 JohnSheppard Sheppard Jeff JeffCarson Carson Dan DanKrier Krier John Sheppard Jeff Carson DanDan KrierKrierJohnJohn Sheppard Jeff Carson

1996 1996X-Yacht X-YachtIMX-38 IMX-38••$55,000 $55,000

2014Harbor Harbor25 25••$49,500 $49,500 2014

DougLombard Lombard Don DonSmith Smith 2022 2022Marshall MarshallCatboat Catboat22 22••$89,900 $89,900 Doug

1996 X-Yacht IMX-38 • $55,000 1996 X-Yacht IMX-38 • $55,000

2014 Harbor 25 •25$49,500 2014 Harbor • $49,500

Lombard Smith Bagley 2022 Marshall Catboat 22 •22$89,900 LombardDonDon Smith CurtCurt Bagley 2022 Marshall Catboat • $89,900DougDoug

Curt CurtBagley Bagley