FOR A SMALL-TOWN Surprise

Skylark Caf

401 High Street, Leslie, Arkansas

870-447-2345, skylarkforever.com

Snack Stop

MISTY’S CONOCO

6542 Highway 65, Leslie, Arkansas

If you don’t know, now you know: Fresh, homemade fried pies at a little roadside gas station are a thing in Arkansas, and you get bonus points if you run across a chocolate roll because Misty’s Conoco is often sold out of them by the afternoon. We did, however, run into master baker Rachael, who gave us her number and promised if we called ahead she’d put some back for us next trip.

Well, if this isn’t the cutest little place you ever did see. Just a couple hours south of Springfield, in Leslie, Arkansas, a modest little house sits just a jog off Hwy 65. Whimsical turquoise and pink colors capture your attention right away, as does the message on the sign: Skylark Café, A Place for Food and Friends.

Owners Joy and Denver Ellis have clearly poured their heart and soul into the historic house Joy purchased in 2009 at age 20. She and her sister initially envisioned a bookstore here, but sometimes visions change, and we’re glad they did. Joy and Denver met while waiting tables in Austin, Texas, in 2008 where she was interning at a not-for-profit and he was studying at Le Cordon Bleu. Joy returned to the Skylark while Denver sharpened his culinary skills everywhere from a restaurant in Vail, Colorado, to a food truck in Oklahoma City. They stayed in touch, and their passion for food and each other eventually brought them back together. After eloping on a Florida beach, they returned to Austin for a brief stint soaking up the food scene (fun fact: Joy worked for Sandra Bullock at her now-closed Bess Bistro) before deciding to make their home in Arkansas.

A Tex-Mex influence is on full display here. Denver smokes the meats in the smokehouse out back, so we owed it to ourselves to try the Green Chili Pork Nachos, loaded with pulled pork, green chili sauce, cheesy spinach dip, fresh pico and avocado. Our waitress was quick to fill us in on the daily specials, and when she mentioned Joy’s homemade Broccoli Cheese Soup wasn’t quite ready, we ordered a cup due to the sheer freshness of it. Good move. The chunks of broccoli had a slight char, which added to the richness of the flavor.

We opted to share the Cubano, piled with smoked pork, grilled pit ham, provolone, mustard and house-made pickles on pressed French bread. We paired it with the Marinated Tomato and Cucumber Salad. We also tried the Chopped Brisket Taco drizzled with house BBQ sauce, chipotle slaw, avocado and cilantro on grilled flour tortilla.

Choosing dessert was the toughest assignment. Joy is the pie chef, and she was pulling them hot from the oven when we arrived.

Two caught our eye: Blueberry Buttermilk and Chocolate Espresso. The waitress said the espresso had a kick and she wasn’t kidding. Next visit I intend to call ahead and order a whole one of each.

The Skylark is a happy place. The food is divine, and the space feels like a family home filled with art, heirlooms and love. Time your trip through Leslie for a lunch or dinner stop at Skylark you can thank us later.—Joy

Robertson

Side Trip

THE LITTLE HILL SHOP

408 Walnut St., Leslie, Arkansas

Joy and Denver’s other passion is thoughtful giving. The Little Hill Shop has a stylish curated collection of local art, jewelry, accessories, teas, books, toys, candles, soaps and more. Joy and Denver began cultivating the 3-acre flower farm on their Skylark property in 2022. They sold bouquets at the restaurant last summer and one day hope for a pick-your-own operation. This year they plan to add a greenhouse and flower counter to The Little Hill Shop.

Snack Stop

SERENITY FARM BREAD BRICK OVEN BAKERY & PASTRY SHOP

805 Highway 65 South, Leslie, serenityfarmbread.com

An incredible variety of organic and nonGMO sourdough breads, focaccia, cookies, cakes and pastries come straight from the oven, and have for 30 years. There’s a store on Main Street, but don’t miss the pastry shop ½ mile south of Leslie housed in a Sears, Roebuck & Co. kit house.