Marin Magazine September 2011

striking

fall 2011 . . . cozy redefined

fall 2011 featuring:

ada leather accessories

bailey 44

billy blues

butter by nadia

chan luu

eileen fi sher

isda & co

line

matta ny

michael stars

minnie rose

paige premium denim

pete

repeat cashmere

streets ahead belts

velvet

fashions fade, style is eternal. -yves saint laurent

Features

53 The Buck Is Growing The latest component of I.M. Pei’s vision nears completion.

58 The New Femme Fatale Edgy accessories and fall’s new “it” color — red — give feminine basics a dash of attitude.

Special Section

S-1 Bay Area Private School Guide A listing of more than 150 schools from San Francisco to Sonoma, plus information on making the right selection, how to fi nance it and more.

In Marin

27 Currents Miwok horses helping cancer patients, seven questions for Maria Mudair, a closer look at Sausalito’s Caledonia Street and more.

38 FYI A Point Reyes Station entrepreneur is marketing manure.

42 Conversation Daniel Liebermann, a Frank Lloyd Wright protégé, is uniquely Marin.

Destinations

71 Go We veer off the roads most traveled on the Hawaiian islands to discover true aloha.

80 Travel Buzz Three suite deals around the Bay, easy wine country getaways and more.

82 Journey Hong Kong, now back in the hands of the Chinese, is an ongoing study of old and new.

Out & About

91 Calendar A roundup of what to do in Marin and beyond.

104 On the Scene Snapshots from special events in Marin and San Francisco.

108 Dine An insider’s guide to restaurants and tidbits in the Bay Area.

Marin Home

129 Backstory

A family of six relocates from Tiburon’s east side into a home where every day feels like a vacation.

131 Details Neither rain, sleet nor snow can hide these creative mailboxes in the county.

COLUMNS

18 View From Marin 21 POV

154 Looking Back

SEPTEMBER 2011

Monk Straps

SAN FRANCISCO

Golden rule (BALLY)

Sterling advice (SALVATORE FERRAGAMO)

Editorial

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nikki Wood

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Jim Wood

MANAGING EDITOR Julie Sinclair

SENIOR EDITOR Mimi Towle

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Daniel Jewett

EDITOR-AT-LARGE Tim Porter

STYLE EDITOR-AT-LARGE Somer Flaherty

COPY EDITOR Cynthia Rubin

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

PJ Bremier, Dawn Margolis Denberg

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Logan Link

INTERN David Pascoe

CONTACT editorial@marinmagazine.com

Art

DESIGN CONSULTANT Victor Maze

ART DIRECTOR Veronica Sooley

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alex French ext 111 | production@marinmagazine.com

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Drew Altizer, Rus Anson, Mo Delong, David Handschuh, Diana Mulvihill, Nike Van Der Molen

Administration

CONTROLLER Maeve Walsh ext 104 | mwalsh@marinmagazine.com

OFFICE MANAGER Danielle Detrick ext 100 | ddetrick@marinmagazine.com

Web

WEB EDITOR Daniel Jewett ext 116 | djewett@marinmagazine.com

Volume 7, Issue 9 Marin Magazine is published in Marin County by Marin Magazine LLC. All rights reserved. Copyright©2011. Reproduction of Marin Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Marin Magazine LLC. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed monthly to homes and businesses in Marin County. Subscription rates are $12 per year. phone 415.332.4800, fax 415.332.3048, email editorial@marinmagazine.com, website marinmagazine.com.

Marin (USPS 024-898) is published monthly by Marin Magazine, LLC, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965. Periodicals Postage Paid at Sausalito, CA, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965.

Advertising

PUBLISHER Lisa Shanower ext 107 | lshanower@marinmagazine.com

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Stephanie Ericson ext 108 | sericson@marinmagazine.com

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Michele Geoff rion Johnson ext 110 | mjohnson@marinmagazine.com

ACCOUNT MANAGER Leah Bronson ext 109 | lbronson@marinmagazine.com

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Regional Sales Offices

WINE COUNTRY

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MEMBER OF THE BPA WORLDWIDE

THE ONLY THING constant in life is change — and as you can see, in our seventh year of publication, we are shaking it up at Marin Magazine. Our goal in this full redesign was to give you a fresh reading experience. Kudos to design consultant Victor Maze and art director Veronica Sooley for executing this transformation. Our hope is that you’ll like it as much as we do.

What you’ll see: layouts that are even more photo-driven than before (in a county as beautiful as this one, we thought it was only appropriate to let each story unfold visually as well as in words), easier navigation for scanning as you flip through the pages,

and sections organized by topic. “In Marin” covers what’s new and noteworthy in the county; “Destinations” includes local deals, quick getaways and international journeys; “Out & About” lists timely events you won’t want to miss plus where to eat in the Bay Area; and “Marin Home” offers a closer look at the county’s homes (and homeowners).

As you’ll discover, while the packaging may be different the content continues to shine a light on the people, places and events that make Marin unique. This month, we open the In Marin section with a touching story on the work Miwok Livery Stables is doing with cancer patients and follow that up with stories on Maria Muldaur (who became famous with her 1974 hit “Midnight at the Oasis”), Frank Lloyd Wright protégé Daniel Liebermann, and Point Reyes Compost’s Teddy Stray. In Destinations, we take an off-the-beaten path approach to Hawai‘i, round up some wine-country deals and take you on a journey to Hong Kong. The annual fall fashion feature, beautifully photographed by Rus Anson, was shot at the Buck Institute for Research on Aging in Novato. As is our tradition, an update on the photo shoot location precedes the fashion pages.

So let us know what you think. (And don’t worry: We’ll continue to include beautiful paintings and photography on our covers — and subscriber copies will remain blurb-free.) As always, our wish is for your good reading. Enjoy Marin Magazine, as we continue to celebrate this extraordinary place!

Lisa Shanower, Publisher

Nikki Wood, Editorial Director Jim Wood, Executive Editor

As you’ll discover, while the packaging may be different the content continues to shine a light on the people, places and events that make Marin unique.

BEHIND THE SCENES

Here, some shots snapped of the crew working on location at the Buck Institute for Research on Aging. You can see how the story turned out beginning on page 58. For a video, visit marinmagazine. com/fallfashion.

JAGUAR XKRJAGUAR XJ

JAGUAR XF

Marin Dreaming

Let your imagination run wild with what needs doing.

BY JIM WOOD

DID YOU KNOW that Samuel P. Taylor State Park — a 3,000-acre, redwood-dense campground — is facing drastic service cutbacks, if not outright closure, within the coming year? Despite being a popular park, it’s become a victim of California’s budget cuts. You see the park, along with Lagunitas Creek, as you head to West Marin on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. People are always there.

The hopeful news is that Tony Magee, the CEO of Lagunitas Brewing Company in Petaluma, is proposing a public-private partnership to keep the park open. His plan, still being developed, involves volunteers, public donations and a lean-and-mean staff. “I just love the area,” Magee says, “and I hate to see things closing down.” Let us wish Magee the very best in his inspired effort to keep Marin an ideal place to live and work.

Which begs the question: Are there other areas in which successful, creative and community-minded individuals — like Magee — can organize projects benefiting Marin County? Because I’m a habitual dreamer, here’s what I came up with.

E Let’s assume that Magee’s public-private partnership is successful, and Samuel P. Taylor State Park stays open: How about a group that organizes summer and fall Bohemian Grove–type programs to be held there featuring Marin musicians, dancers and comedians along with talks by the county’s many authors, artists, thinkers and entrepreneurs?

E How about something similar happening at China Camp State Park (which, sad to say, is also slated for closure)? Only in this instance, a community leader steps forth with the know-how — and the fi nancial resources — to both keep it open and convert it into a “mountain bike–only” venue complete with all-new twisting trails, high-altitude jumps and water hazards.

E A project worthy of a consortium involving Marin’s many designers and landscape fi rms would be the planting out of the hillsides surrounding Frank Lloyd Wright’s Marin County Civic Center in keeping with the master architect’s original vision. And while doing so, let’s thin out the trees surrounding that world-famous building so motorists on Highway 101 can get a better view of it.

E Here’s a related fantasy — one calling for deep pockets and a desire to see Marin looking its best. Another result of California’s budget cutbacks is that Caltrans has only two workers tending to Marin’s 100 miles of state highway roadsides. Therefore, it’s time to create “Marin Beautiful,” a public-private partnership that would clean up and beautify the roadsides along Highway 101. This means picking up litter, pulling out and cutting back invasive weeds and landscaping the interchanges. This would provide jobs for hundreds who would be paid a living wage, with benefits.

This is my fantasy list of what would make Marin an even better place to live and work — and it never hurts to dream. What’s on your list? Email pov@marinmagazine.com.

Are there other areas in which successful, creative and communityminded individuals can organize projects benefiting Marin County?

Your Letters

Tone Down Militarism?

Thank you for Jim Wood’s comments regarding Joe Garbarino’s tanks and other military vehicles (POV, August 2011). He makes valid points concerning the use of this equipment in the July 4th parades, but I have to disagree with him due to my own experience in World War II. I was a 19-year-old infantryman in Europe, France, Germany and western Austria and saw some of the horrors of that war. He says the vehicles should be kept in the Garbarino Museum. I believe that very few of our young people would ever see them if this were the case. JOHN HOYE, VIA EMAIL

I must respectfully disagree with Jim Wood about the presence of Joe Garbarino’s military vehicles in Fourth of July parades. As a combat veteran of the Vietnam conflict,

I find it refreshing and somewhat requiting to see the crowds applaud not only the vehicles but also the soldiers, sailors, Marines, and airmen riding in them. Thanks for a provocative and thoughtful column that reminded me of the extraordinary freedom of speech we enjoy in this nation due in large part to our capable and powerful military forces. WILLIAM L. BUCHANAN, MILL VALLEY

We couldn’t agree more with Jim Wood’s POV in Marin Magazine ’s August issue. As Wood writes, a few military vehicles would be okay, especially on Memorial Day or Veterans Day. But the Corte Madera/Larkspur Fourth of July Parade doesn’t need a Tiananmen or Red Square display of military might, even if it is historic. That’s why we stopped going to that parade. JIM AND MIMI CORNELIUS, BELVEDERE

ON FACEBOOK, WE ASKED YOU

Hey, Marinites — people of Marin ... Mariners, Marin-oans. What do you like to be called?

“Marinite, but Marinated is hysterical.”

Heather Maguire Olitsky, Corte Madera

“Love Marinated! Preferably in white wine and garlic!”

Stephanie Clarke, Stinson Beach

“People of the Free Republic of Marin.”

Kirstie Martinelli, Strawberry

“Mariner. Marinoid. Marinian. And when you’ve lived here long enough, you’ve become Marinated.”

Shiloh Shaeffer, Mill Valley

“I’m going with Marinated! Fits perfectly!”

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The scoop on Bay Area events

Friend us to share RSVP Hot Ticket photos at facebook.com/marinmagazine

[UPCOMING EVENTS]

MARIN SYMPHONY OPENING GALA

Sunday, October 2

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 22

E-Verify or Not

415.479.8100; marinsymphony.org WHEN WHERE WHAT WHY YOU SHOULD GO COST

Concert at 3 p.m., gala follows Marin Civic Center, San Rafael

Immediately following the all-Tchaikovsky 59th seasonopening concert, head outside to the tent to enjoy fresh, farm-totable local cuisine prepared by Stacy Scott Catering. Celebrate Maestro Alasdair Neale’s 10th anniversary and mingle with friends. Finish the evening with live auction, desserts and dancing.

Proceeds benefit the Marin Symphony and its youth music programs.

$125 per person, $2,000 for a reserved table of 10. Concert tickets sold separately

FIND OUT MORE

ANGELS BY THE BAY

Friday, October 7, 11 a.m. Corinthian Yacht Club, Tiburon

Enjoy sweeping San Francisco Bay views as this event kicks off with a silent auction, live jazz and wine tasting. Lunch will be served at 12:30 p.m. followed by a live auction full of opportunities to bid on unique experiences. Stay and enjoy a front-row seat for the Blue Angels air show that begins at 3 p.m.

All proceeds will benefit The Marin Center for Independent Living, serving older adults and people with disabilities in Marin County.

Individual ticket: $85, sponsorship levels available.

415.459.6245, ext. 17; marincil.org

Want to see all the images from our RSVP Hot Ticket events? Visit marinmagazine.com/hotticket for the latest.

I want to thank you for taking a position against E-Verify (POV, July 2011), especially when it comes to those employed in the agricultural field. With a 9 percent national unemployment rate few of our politicians are willing to take a leadership position on immigration issues. Even I am torn, since I oppose illegal residents’ children born in this country automatically gaining citizenship status. However, I am strongly in favor of the DREAM Act, which again our president and other politicians with the exception of Dianne Feinstein won’t speak out strongly on.

DAVID GUGGENHIME, VIA EMAIL

A meaningful discussion requires the use of honest language. And in this debate you persist with the same dishonest language that often clouds this issue. You falsely attribute the support of E-Verify to “anti-immigrant groups.” The vast majority of those who want to prevent illegal immigration are not “anti-immigrant.” They are “anti–illegal immigration.” They do not hate those who try to enter the country illegally. People trying to seek a better life formed our country for themselves and their families. But we live in a country of laws, and most people want our laws to be respected. DAN PISENTI, MILL VALLEY

Correction

In the August issue we ran a piece about the KC Turner house concert series and neglected to credit the photographer. The shot of the Mother Hips shown on page 74 (and at right) was taken by photographer Andrew Quist.

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Your comments may be edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965, or email us at letters@marinmagazine com. Please include the town where you live and a daytime phone number.

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In Marin

CELEBRATING THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND CAUSES OF THIS UNIQUE COUNTY

Horses as Healers

When Betty Schumacher was dealing with breast cancer recently, she bravely faced doctor appointments, hospital visits and her fears, but every Tuesday for six weeks during her recovery she got to visit Oprah — a 14-year-old gray Percheron cross who serves as a therapy horse at Miwok Livery Stables in Mill Valley in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. This gentle giant is one of eight horses that participates in Horses As Healers, a free program for cancer patients throughout the Bay Area that is coordinated by Marin General Hospital’s Marin Cancer Institute and underwritten by the Miwok Stables Center, the nonprofi t arm of Miwok Livery Stables.

BY PJ BREMIER • PHOTOS BY DIANA MULVIHILL

As Schumacher arrives for her session this afternoon, Oprah is resting in her paddock, slowly chewing hay in the warm sun.

“Oprah’s wonderful!” Schumacher, a San Rafael resident, says. “It’s just fun to put my mind somewhere else and relate to horses. It’s a lovely diversion.”

That’s what Diane Brandon likes to hear. Brandon, an 11-year cancer survivor and the cancer resource specialist at Marin Cancer Institute in Greenbrae, coordinates the clients for the program and attends each lesson. “Horses pull you back into your body and into the present moment,” she says. “We know that new physical experiences help create new neural connections in your brain, so to sit gracefully and fully present on a horse while it’s walking distracts you from your concerns. It’s like a vacation without having to pack.”

With friendly volunteer mentors assisting, a supportive trainer in the arena and ground rules that allow clients to go at their own pace or simply watch, Schumacher and Oprah will spend the next two hours together while Schumacher learns how to groom, tack up and ride.

Linda Rubio, who lost a sister to cancer years ago and is owner of Miwok Livery Stables, recalls a woman in a wheelchair with her two grown children at her side who approached her recently while she was teaching. “She had come through the program a year before and loved the horse she rode, Molly,” Rubio says. “It was her fi nal wish to come see Molly and the horses one last time. We hugged, and she said it had been wonderful.”

Alice Steele, president of the board of Miwok Stables Center, notes that the horses in this program are used for all novice riders. “They are all heart and soul,” she says. “You could put them in your living room

and they’d carefully walk around the coffee table and they’re so sweet. They get hugged all day long.”

And, in a way, so do the clients. “Riding here makes the participants feel good inside; it puts a smile on their faces,” she says. “They come in anxious and preoccupied, but the horses help them move outside of themselves and get happy.”

The next session of Horses As Healers, which is open to all cancer patients in the Bay Area depending on available space, begins in spring. For information, contact Diane Brandon at 415.925.7920 or brandod@maringeneral.org. To donate, contact Miwok Stables Center at miwokstablescenter.org. m

Clockwise from top left: The indoor arena at Miwok; a mount being groomed; Linda Rubio with her horse; halters hanging on stable doors; a historic farm building on the grounds; Alice Steele guiding Betty Schumacher on Oprah.

MARIA MULDAUR

7 Questions for...

Singer/ producer/ songwriter

MILL VALLEY

We caught up with Maria Muldaur — considered by many the “First Lady of American Roots Music” — just before she left to headline a jazz festival in Borneo and shortly after she’d returned from New Orleans, where she’d finished recording her 39th (she thinks) album, Steady Love, which features a gumbo of New Orleans–flavored blues, R&B, and a “swamp funk” sound she calls “bluesiana.” Muldaur and her Red Hot Bluesiana Band will be at 142 Throckmorton on September 11 to promote the album’s release. MIMI TOWLE

1

Why Marin? I was living in L.A., and right around the time “Midnight at the Oasis” became a huge hit, I fell in love with a handsome, soulful bass player in the Jerry Garcia Band named John Kahn, who lived up here. When he rented a gorgeous house on the top of Mount Tam for us and our two children I loaded my daughter, my dog and all my worldly possessions into a moving van and never looked back.

2

Favorite Marin spots to play?

I always love performing at 142 Throckmorton ... I like to call it the “Sistine Chapel of Mill Valley.” We also dig playing at good old Rancho Nicasio, which is a great down-home, old-school roadhouse for folks who like to come out, have some great American food and dance — not a yuppie in sight! And then of course the new Palm Ballroom, adjacent to the Seafood Peddler.

3 Do you have a favorite late-night snack spot? In this sleepy little ‘burb? Are you kidding? If we get out of the Throckmorton early enough, the wonderful brothers from Calabria who own Piazza D’Angelo will graciously stay open and make sure we get something to eat.

4

Have you ever ridden a camel? In 1974, when I was chosen to be on the cover of Rolling Stone , the fabulous photographer Annie Leibovitz thought it would be a good idea to photograph me on a camel in the desert. I was 31, wearing denim shorts and a halter top. In the photo I have this look of nonchalance, but I was terrifi ed.

5

What is your favorite drink and where do you like to drink it? Fresh-squeezed orange juice at Mi Pueblo, the supermarket that I call the “Mexican Whole Foods,” in San Rafael. I love that place.

6

What has motherhood taught you about yourself? It’s a lifetime job; it’s not over when the kids turn 18 and leave home. It’s an ongoing relationship. Most important, it teaches you to live for something other than yourself, which, after all, is what we’re all here to learn.

7

What is your beauty secret? [Laughs.] I don’t really have one. But my two secrets to staying healthy and full of energy are that I swim a mile every day, rain or shine, and I don’t dwell on negativity. I strive to focus on devoting my life and energy to serving the highest good of all.

BOOKS

Reading List

Daughters of the Revolution by Carolyn Cooke, Knopf, $24.95. Historical novel set in the ’60s in which the headmaster of a boys’ school vows never to integrate — then, through a clerical error, an African American girl wins a scholarship. The story deals with all of the era’s issues. The award-winning author lives in Mendocino and on San Francisco’s Russian Hill.

The Left Coast: California on the Edge by Philip and Alex Fradkin, UC Press, $29.95. A father and son from West Marin spent three years writing, photographing and traveling up and down California’s coastline. This oversize book includes snippets of history, geography, interviews and personal experiences. Stories highlight areas both pristine and polluted.

Making

Sense

of People:

Decoding the Mysteries of Personality by Samuel Barondes, FT Press, $25.99. Who wouldn’t like to better understand their boss, a neighbor or a daughter’s boyfriend? This short (217-page), well-reviewed book by the UCSF psychiatrist and Sausalito resident may well provide answers. Reading it will help you “read” people. JIM WOOD

Congrats!

We celebrate these local achievers, whether they’re running, painting or just working in the garden. DAVE PASCOE

1 Emerging Artists

This year’s Headlands Center for the Arts (headlands.org) Tournesol Awardee Neil LeDoux is an emerging painter who will be granted a yearlong studio residency, a $10,000 stipend and support for a public project.

2 Row Your Boat

In a spectacular series of races, all three teams from the Marin Rowing Association took gold at the U.S. National Junior Championships, held this past spring in Oak Ridge, Tennessee.

5

3

3 Mill Valley’s Finest

For their lifetime artistic achievements and contributions to their community, the city of Mill Valley has selected seven individuals to receive the aptly named annual Milley Awards. They are Eldon Beck, Katy Butler, Sue Carlomagno, Si and Max Perkoff, Sammy Hagar and Larry Snyder.

4

The Best in Blue

Mmmm, good. The National Association for the Specialty Food Trade awarded Point Reyes Farmstead a Sofi Gold Award for its Original Blue Cheese. We’ve known how good this cheese is for years — now it’s official.

SCHOOL SUPPORT

5 A Mountain Marathon

At age 59, Brent Thomson will be running the Everest Marathon on December 2, an honor shared by only 74 other athletes worldwide. We wish her good luck on the mountain.

6 Vegetable Sharing

David Fox and Sheila Mutter were each awarded an Unsung Heroes Award for their work with the Marin Open Garden Project (opengardenproject.org), a produce exchange project that brings San Anselmo residents together to share excess fruits and vegetables from their gardens.

It’s time to take responsibility for our county’s public schools. An undeniable driving force of Marin’s continued success, schools all over the county are facing the harsh reality of $55 million in state budget cuts to education. The time to act is now — but what’s the solution? Say hello to SchoolsRuleMarin. Composed of over 20 public school foundations in partnership with the Marin County Offi ce of Education, it seeks to streamline community efforts through equal opportunity debate, volunteer work and donations. Learn more at schoolsrule.org. D.P.

Clockwise from far left: Fountain, an oil-on-canvas painting by Neil LeDoux; marathoner Brent Thomsom; Milley Awards lined up for the giving.

Our mission is to create awareness and educate you on important current health topics as well as the newest and most effective treatments available.

CLASS #1: What’s Happening “NOW” in Plastic Surgery

October 5, 2011

There is limited space, so please call to reserve your seat. A $40 non-refundable, reservation fee will be charged when you sign up, to be redeemed for EVO products in our Lifestyle Boutique or Services upon completion of the workshop.

Speaker: Dr. Andrew Barnett

Board Certified Plastic Surgeon

CLASS #2: The Newest Techniques in Lasers, Botox, Fillers, and More...

October 12, 2011

Speaker: Dr. David Laub

Cosmetic Dermatology

CLASS #3: Why Raw? The Benefits of a Raw Food Diet

October 19, 2011

Speaker: Chef Prem Hasya

Living Light Culinary Arts

CLASS #4: How to Sense, Read, Regulate, and Maintain your Energy Field for Optimal Health and Well-Being

October 26, 2011

Speaker: Natalie Patrizio

Graduate of Barbara Brennan School of Healing

A Sausalito Oasis

After much anticipation, the historic Casa Madrona Hotel (casamadrona.com), originally built as a luxury home in 1885 for San Francisco Gas and Electric executive William Barrett and his wife, Clara, has been graciously restored. While the 63-room hotel is offering alluring promotional deals for out-of-town visitors (such as dining credits at Sushi Ran and Cibo with lodging), the 3,000-square-foot spa is sure to be a favorite spot for locals, as well. Stop by for an hour of respite with the grounding and rebalancing 60-minute $126 “Shore” treatment, which includes a signature massage and a manicure, or make a full spa day out of it with the $499 “Sea” escape. What you’ll get: a 90-minute facial, a 90-minute jasmine scrub, a 60-minute deluxe manicure, a 60-minute pedicure and lunch. Time to start dropping birthday wish hints now. MIMI TOWLE

RELAX

UGG

Hunter

Kate Spade

Tory Burch

Kors

Libby Edelman

Boutique 9

Corso Como

House of Harlow

Vintage

Minnetonka Moccasin

Sam Edleman

Havaianas

Bettye Muller

Toms

Pour La Victoire

Vera Wang Lavender

Frye

AquaTalia

by Marvin K

Matisse

Fit Flops

All Black

Bernardo and more......

Got the boot

Above: The sleek relaxation area in Casa Madrona Hotel’s spa. Left: The nail salon.

READING & TWEETING

Like to read? Find @Sally_K on Twitter to join Marin’s Twitter Book Club. The book club’s first selection, Meant to Be, was written, published and marketed entirely online by Sue Warhaftig and Beverly Butler, both from Marin. D.P.

Making Food Work

Want to join the locavore movement? Community Action Marin (CAM) FoodWorks can help get you started. A recent addition to CAM, FoodWorks is a specialty food manufacturer that creates unique food products inspired by access to the local harvest through co-packing and private label services. In addition to buying local and referring farmers to FoodWorks, you can donate to the cause (all proceeds help fund CAM’s goal of helping local people in need; visit camarin.org/camfoodworks.html). Or, if you have recipe ideas of your own — perhaps a tasty chutney or jam — you can contact FoodWorks to help you get a finished product on the shelf. Everyone wins, especially those who need it. As program director Merrilee Olson says, “From 5:30 in the morning until around 1, the CAM central kitchen is used to prepare approximately 1,400 meals a day for children in need using FoodWorks funding.” D.P.

S Studio 333

Cavernous gallery of local art that doubles as an indoor/outdoor event space. Need art printed? See Alesha Rogness upstairs (sausalitogiclee. com). 333 Caledonia; studio333.info

Caledonia Street, Locals Only

WANDERINGS

If Bridgeway is the beach where tourists — wearing sweatshirts! — surf in Sausalito, then Caledonia Street is the locals-only break. Quiet, cozy Caledonia parallels Bridgeway for six blocks between Johnson and Napa streets and is best known to out-oftowners for its movie theater (the Marin at 101 Caledonia) and for Sushi Ran (107 Caledonia), which draws raw fish aficionados from all over the world. But, as locals know, there’s so much more. TIM

PORTER

Green Apples

Classic boutique with contemporary brands — Diane Von Furstenberg, Milly NY and Vince. Also Kathy Kamei jewelry. 110 Caledonia; shopgreenapples.com

Yoga of Sausalito

Intimate studio with a mellow bamboo floor. Yoga clothes, accessories and The Sanctuary Spa. 110 Caledonia; yoga ofsausalito.com

Robert Allen

Fine Art

High-end gallery carrying the works of dozens of artists, including Sausalito painter

Susie Buchholz, whose husband, Yoshi Tome, owns Sushi Ran. Bring a discerning palate — and your wallet. 301 Caledonia, robertallen fineart.com

N Sausalito

Picture Framing

High-quality work in a one-man shop. Amazing selection of material, with prices to match a family portrait or a Picasso. 310 Caledonia; sausalito pictureframing.com

John Wilmer

Studio

John Wilmer is a painter, photographer, expert upholsterer and keeper of an antique store whose wares range from old radios to fine furniture. 333 B Caledonia; johnwilmer.com

Sarky Square

Small complex between Pine and Tunney streets with several treasures. 110 Caledonia

S Caledonia

Street Barbers

Men’s haircuts since the 1920s, when Caledonia was named Water Street and still on the bay. History abounds. Photos of Nixon, Elvis and cheesecake. $20 for a cut. 35 Caledonia; 415.331.5707

Electric Wheels

Marin’s only all-electric bike store. Batterypowered Hebbs, Pedogos and Stromers. Many styles, prices. 1207 G Bridgeway, electric wheelswest.com

Hannelore Miller

German-born artist whose motto is “Anything can be anything.” Whimsical wire sculptures, fun scarves, good prices. 415.332.6665

S Waterstreet

Hardware & Marine

Forty-year-old, archetypical “if they don’t have it you don’t need it” hardware store. A Vegas-red carpet evokes the building’s former pool hall days. 318 Caledonia; water streethardware.com

Robert Allen Fine Art

Right: Yoga of Sausalito.

Below: John Wilmer Studio

He’s Full of It

A Point Reyes Station entrepreneur is marketing manure.

BY JIM WOOD • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

TWO YEARS AGO, middle-aged Teddy Stray was fed up with the corporate life. “I was tired of the constant traveling,” he recalls. “I wanted to stay closer to home; I wanted meaning in my life.” Fortunately, the Bayonne, New Jersey, native was married to the farmer’s daughter. That’s right, his wife’s father owned a West Marin dairy farm. “A lot of guys take a lot of crap from their fathers-inlaw,” he says. “But I wanted to buy mine.”

So Stray — let’s call him Teddy — proposed the idea to his wife’s dad, the legendary cattle rancher Bob Giacomini, of buying and bagging cow manure. “At first,” says Teddy, “Bob thought I was wacko.” Now the two of them, along with all of their extended family, are delighted with the success of Bob’s Best Cow Manure.

For several years, Giacomini had been composting and recycling — even sharing with fellow ranchers — the manure generated by his contented cows on the Giacomini Ranch. Then comes Teddy, with his concept to bag then sell the compost through local nurseries to Marin’s many backyard gardeners. And like all retail fertilizers, Bob’s Best is ranch-aged for months, then carefully tested for heavy metals, bacteria, E.coli, salmonella and toxic wastes.

Now back to the fun stuff: A key component of the Bob’s Best marketing campaign — and it’s printed on every bag — is the tagline: “Don’t Let Anyone Else Give You Any Crap.”

However, Teddy — president and CEO of Point Reyes Compost — is hardly giving it away. At Whole Foods, Sloat, Mollie Stone’s, Goodman’s Lumber, Fairfax Hardware,

Clockwise from left: Teddy Stray checks the moisture of a row of compost; bags of Bob’s Best manure; a dairy cow at the Giacomini Ranch in Point Reyes.

Sunnyside in San Anselmo and Green Jeans Nursery in Mill Valley, a one-cubic-foot bag of Bob’s Best sells for up to $6.99. “That stuff is great,” says Kevin Sadlier, owner of Green Jeans. “According to our customers, it really works.”

“We also have a higher-end product,” Teddy reports. “It’s a blend of cow and horse manure called ‘Double Doody.’ It sells for up to $8.99 a bag.” All of which leads to Point Reyes Compost’s proud motto: “Purveyors of Premium Poop.” Moreover, each container of Bob’s Best is stamped with the assurance: “This Bag Is Full of Crap.”

Make no mistake, however. Point Reyes Compost is serious about what it does. “Our bags also carry an OMRI certification,” Teddy says. “This signifies our products have been approved by the Organic Materials Review Institute, an Oregon agricultural watchdog group, and this means they come from organic sources and can be used to grow organic fruits and vegetables as well as healthy shrubs and flowers.”

Teddy is also quick to point out the very bag containing his compost is 100 percent recyclable. “Our entire operation is green and sustainable,” he continues. “Think about it: Our product is produced naturally and locally. We bag it on site, then deliver it to local nurseries, where it is sold to locals and used locally.” Teddy, who was previously a VP for global sales at an enterprise owned by Warren Buffett, readily admits he has never in his life had so much fun — and satisfaction — while running a business. “You might say,” he concludes, “I’m closing the loop on poop.” m

Clockwise from left: Point Reyes Compost sells “manurewear” at its store on Second Street in Point Reyes Station; Teddy Stray’s shirt touts the company’s newest brand, Mary Jane’s Blend; mixing cattle feed on the Giacomini Ranch; products and prices at the Point Reyes Compost Co. store.

TDaniel Liebermann

This Frank Lloyd Wright protégé is uniquely Marin.

BY DANIEL JEWETT • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

O MEET DANIEL LIEBERMANN is to discover a man who at 81 still does things his own way. He lives in a home he built in the hills of Inverness, a structure he continues to add on to. The home, which is carved out of the hillside with views all the way to Mount Tamalpais, is a work in progress made from mostly recycled materials and constructed with innovative building techniques Liebermann pioneered. But doing things his own way is nothing new for the Harvardeducated architect and land planner, who in 1956 acquired an invitation to join Frank Lloyd Wright at Taliesin, Wright’s school for architects, at both the Wisconsin and Arizona campuses. For Liebermann, the experience helped launch a storied career that includes some of the most unique buildings in Marin, including the one-of-a-kind Civic Center.

Opposite: Liebermann and one of the homes he designed in Inverness. The structure is supported by a central column that creates a circular living area. Below: A heating stove with stones for warming, and Liebermann and his wife in 1960.

What sparked your interest in architecture?

In the 1930s we moved from a Princeton, New Jersey, suburb to a Dutch farm that had been added to and grown upon for 300 years and had grounds that were at one time remodeled by Frederick Law Olmsted. So what better experience can a 10-year-old get? I started gardening and learned much about sites, farming, landscape and architecture. I was greatly influenced by this Dutch architecture; it is the root of my architectural sensibility. Why I fell in love with it was because it was there, but these buildings were so much more deep and genuine than suburban houses. The authentic Dutch farmhouse was built not by architects or amateurs or Harvard boys but by genuine farmers who inherited the craft, handmanship and joinery and had scale and sense of place.

What brought you to Taliesin? When I went to Taliesin I had already been at Johns Hopkins, Harvard, the service and reserves, then back to Harvard and finally to the University of Colorado for an MFA in sculpture. I was bored with school; you couldn’t get your hands on anything at Harvard. So I went to Colorado to ski, mountain climb, botanize, go into nature and enjoy that altitude and do my sculpture. It was fun. I went from there to Taliesin at age 26.

I loved the place right away. I had visited before. When I left Boulder I went through Wisconsin and had an interview with Wright, who happened to be there (which was a

Most people don’t get me because all my buildings look the same. I was not an art deco type; I was in pursuit of a deeper organicism.

miracle), and they accepted me. I had written two or three years earlier, and I got a letter from the secretary that there was a long waiting list. But I went and asked Wright directly, and the fact that I had come all the way from Boulder — he sort of visualized that I had come on a horse and buggy or something — impressed him. Of course, I was going from Boulder back to Princeton anyway. We had a nice chat, and I arrived at Taliesin in Scottsdale around Christmas.

What was the Taliesin experience like in the 1950s? What was it like getting to know Wright and others there? The misimpression of Wright is that he was a womanizer, but the women he went for were usually twice his size and probably twice his intellect and had their own ambition. To say that he took advantage of them is laughable. They were pretty ferocious characters who found a certain liberation in meeting a genius with a similar philosophy.

I was invited the last week I was there to stay at the school. It was announced that Wright and [his third wife] Olgivanna were coming to lunch, and that was really the high point. They came personally to have a little lunch with me and invite me to stay permanently at Taliesin, which was significant. Not that you get paid for that, but I could have lived there and I probably wouldn’t have done any architecture; I would have written — like a Walt Whitman. Being at Taliesin in Arizona gave you a perch over the whole of America at the time, with a certain wisdom, a certain perspective — what happened and what was happening — sweeping by you all in its own little eddy. Wright was born right after the Civil War; it was amazing how modern a mind he was.

It was a great time. I could have stayed at Taliesin forever.

How did you end up in Marin? My parents decided they wanted to retire, so they moved out to the Bay Area. They can be credited with getting my architecture off the ground; you might not have ever heard of me otherwise. They commissioned me — to build my very

These building are like yachts, sailboats moored at anchor or at sea.

fi rst buildings — my house and their house, the ones in Mill Valley. I bought six acres there. The waterfall in Mill Valley was part of the property, from Cascade up to Lovell. I acquired this property and put in a road to the double clay tennis court and built their house in 1960. The setting is perfect, just a dream place.

And then I built the Radius House [on the same parcel] for us, my wife Eva and I, and we moved into it when Ben, our first child, was under a year old. My daughter Wanda was born there.

What was your involvement in the building of the Civic Center? After arriving in the Bay Area I was invited to join the Aaron Green office on the recommendation of [Taliesin architect] Wes Peters and Mr. and Mrs. Wright. Aaron was the only practitioner under the Wright flag who created a joint office representing Frank Lloyd Wright and himself privately. It was an unusual and unique setup, and Aaron insisted on that.

Well, Aaron was always on the run, like a politician. He had to be to put together all these disparate and confl icting interests.

A Civic Center site meeting in 1957 that included (from right) Aaron Green, Frank Lloyd Wright and Vera Schulz.

[Green managed the Civic Center project for Wright and saw it to completion after Wright’s death in 1959.] Marin almost stopped the thing because of the vote [the 1960 election that brought in new Marin supervisors not in favor of the project]. We were there at that time; maddening. That stupid supervisor stopped it all with a snap of the fi ngers and lost millions of dollars. It was the middle of the winter, and we had about 10 contractors all signed up. But in the end this pushed it forward faster. This was the fi rst thing that happened when I joined Green, because it was in design and projection when I was at Taliesin.

I was given a lot of the grading, contours, rough fittings of the proto-buildings, parking terraces, walls and roads, off-ramps and stuff I was already known as a contour guru, but I was really a kid. But that is what I had developed a peculiar talent for.

Most people don’t get me because all my buildings look the same. I was not an art deco

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Sunday, September 25, 2011 7:00 p.m. Angelico Hall, Dominican Campus

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type; I was in pursuit of a deeper organicism. The Civic Center — I would never have designed an enclave like that. I would have taken those hills and created a large kind of geodesic canopy covering a developed interior landscape with terraces and mezzanines inside of it. But I love the Civic Center; I think it has held up well despite all the criticism. It’s a good building.

What about Aaron Green’s work on Marin City? I was involved in some of the landscaping of that on the tail end of the project. The thing about that project, which was endearing, was that Aaron was not the snob that people may have attributed to his character. He was actually, deep down, equalitarian; very American. He wanted to do his best for the workers who came mostly from Marinship — to really dedicate a serious Wright/Green–type project to the public housing project. I’ve proposed a greening up of that site; build green houses in between, green walls. Keep what is there but

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convert it to a more modern usage. Aaron’s fealty to doing something worthy there was a significant thing that should be talked about when talking about Aaron.

What is your architectural philosophy? I see buildings as a very dynamical static bundle of forces. The influence of boats on me is very important. All these houses are a resolution of dynamical complex stress forces: seismic, geo, uplift, slow geophysical drifting, instability, soil, winds — all of that. You don’t see it, but it is all reading off huge numbers. These building are like yachts, sailboats moored at anchor or at sea. The motion isn’t as visible, but the dynamical inputs are as great. So you begin to conceive of a building that way. The fi nal dynamic is actually the neurology of the brain — how we do or do not see things by bending, manipulating and modulating shapes that we are not accustomed to, as I did in that house in Mill Valley in 1960. You begin to discover the relativity of the perception of spatial quantity; you need to break out of the box. m

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A berm forms one of many terraces on the Inverness property. Below left: Liebermann, seen in his open kitchen, loves to collect and write with old typewriters.

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Shot at the Buck Institute in Novato (shown above), our fall fashion feature can be seen beginning on page 58. But first, Jim Wood visits the I.M. Pei-designed icon for an update.

The BuckIs Growing

THE LATEST COMPONENT OF I.M. PEI’S VISION NEARS COMPLETION. BY JIM WOOD PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

Driving just north of Novato on Highway 101 you can’t miss it. It’s the Buck Institute for Research on Aging, that gleaming-white, modernistic building sitting all alone on the fl anks of Mount Burdell. With cattle grazing below, it looks so, shall we say, serene. But looks can be deceiving — and in this case, they definitely are.

What’s impossible to see from 101 is the construction of a 66,000-square-foot building that is nearing completion. “This is the second of four research buildings approved in our master plan,” says Kris Rebillot, the Buck Institute’s director

of communications. “We hope to start moving in later this year. It will be fully operational by next spring.”

The new $40 million structure — similar in appearance to the two existing I. M. Pei–designed buildings that were completed in 1999 — will house up to 12 laboratories, scientific support space, administrative offices, conference rooms and onsite food service. According to Rebillot, there was only one slight alteration from Pei’s original Buck Institute structures. “Our first buildings feature travertine marble from a quarry in Italy,” she says. “However, this time our vice president of facilities was able to find matching stone from a quarry in Idaho, which dramatically reduced our costs.”

Currently, the Buck Institute’s Novato campus encompasses two buildings totaling 185,000 square feet. “We employ nearly 200 people,” adds Rebillot. “When the new building is fully occupied, that number will jump to almost 330.” In the late 1990s, Pei — the architect for the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C., the glass-andsteel “pyramid” for the Louvre museum in Paris and the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library in Massachusetts — provided a “sketch” master plan regarding the Institute’s build-out. “This new building will be number three of a potential five structures,” adds Rebillot.

The Buck Institute is America’s first independent research facility focusing solely on understanding the connection between aging and chronic disease. “Our mission is to increase the healthy years of one’s life,” says its president and CEO, Brian Kennedy, Ph.D. “At a time when people over 65 will soon outnumber children under five, fi nding a way to slow age-related diseases and disorders and extend productivity must become a priority,” he adds.

The new facility on the Buck complex, called the Center of Excellence, will focus on regenerative medicine. “We’ll be exploring how to revitalize aging tissues that are losing their capacity to regenerate and trying to understand why stem cells fail to function as one gets older,” says Rebillot. This, she adds, is in addition to current intensive and extensive research involving fruit fl ies, mice and — are you ready for this? — worms. “Believe it or not, nematode worms are a very popular research model,” she says. “They have a short life span, which allows for quick experiments. At the same time they are genetically similar to humans.”

A major thrust of the institute’s work involves slowing, if not eliminating, the effects of both Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s diseases.

The Buck Institute for Research on Aging operates on an annual budget of $35 million, with 50 percent of that sum coming from federal grants and nearly 34 percent coming from private philanthropy, foundation grants and other sources such as interest and investments. “About 16 percent of our annual revenue, as well as our very name, comes from the Buck Trust,” says Blair Winn, the institute’s director of resource development. “There’s a misconception that because of our name and association with the Buck Trust, public support isn’t necessary,” Winn adds. “But that’s

far from the truth. Increasingly we will need the public to join our very public cause if the Center of Excellence is to be successful.”

Being specific, spokesperson Rebillot says that just half of the building’s construction costs are being covered by grant monies. “We received $20.5 million from the California Institute for Regenerative Medicine, or CIRM, which was established in 2004 with the passage of Proposition 71, the California Stem Cell Research and Cures Act,” she says. While bonds have been sold to facilitate construction of the new building, according to both Winn and Rebillot, a capital campaign is currently under way to raise more than $20 million from the community to “retire the bonds and invest in our science.”

The Buck Trust is the legacy of Leonard and Beryl Hamilton Buck, the last of whom passed away in 1975 leaving about $12 million for “charitable purposes in Marin County” including, in Beryl Buck’s words, “extending help to the problems of aging.” Then, over ensuing years, two developments

The Buck Institute for Research on Aging will potentially be constructing two additional buildings in the future.

occurred. First, the trust, consisting primarily of a Texas oil company, grew exponentially into one totaling hundreds of millions of dollars. (It’s now approximately $750 million and administered by the Marin Community Foundation.) Second, various legal challenges emerged, including one to break the “Marin-only” caveat.

A 1986 court-approved solution was to distribute 80 percent of the trust’s annual earnings to Marin-specific causes and divide 20 percent of the earnings among three Marin-based organizations that would benefit all humankind. In addition to the Buck Institute for Research on Aging, these include the Buck Institute for Education and the Marin Institute, which deals with alcohol-related problems. In a fortunate turn of events, attorney Mary McEachron, who was instrumental in the 1986 Buck Trust settlement agreement, is now chief administrative officer of the Buck Institute for Research on Aging.

It was McEachron who, in 1985, helped convene a panel of nationwide experts to discuss the creation of a Marin-based freestanding research

institute centering on problems facing the aging population. In its final gathering, according to records, the panel challenged the new institute “to become the preeminent research institute on aging; establish for itself a national reputation; and contribute significantly to our (nation’s) ability to reduce disability and dependency in later life.”

In just over a decade, the Buck Institute for Research on Aging, as evidenced by a $20.5 million vote of confidence to build a second research facility, appears well on its way toward fulfi lling that lofty mission. Now it’s the community’s challenge to match the grant of the California Institute for Regenerative Medicine. “We are working hard to identify all the sources of funding, thus allowing us to maximize this opportunity that has so much potential for the future health of all of us,” says Kennedy.

Rebillot succinctly puts it this way: “Consider us the Apollo Project of aging.” So, when driving north on 101, don’t let the serene white buildings on the hill — along with the grazing cattle below — deceive you. A lot is going on up there. m

Brushed wool Camilla coat by Cynthia Steffe, $595, available at Nicolette (SF) 415.563.5400. Resin necklace by 7 Per, $148 at Jewelry by the Bay (Sausalito) 415.332.0660. Resin and sterling silver ring by Alexander Hamilton Crawford, $138 at Jewelry by the Bay. Tights by Oroblu, $30 at Nordstrom (Corte Madera) 415.927.1690. Lainey suede shoes by Me Too, $99 at Nordstrom.

Femme Fatale

This Page: Dress by Maisonette 1977, $1,299, available via special order at 212.695.5770. Shoes by Jimmy Choo, $950 at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF) 415.986.4300. Silver Disco Chain earrings, $24 at Jewelry by the Bay (Sausalito) 415.332.0660. Motherof-pearl with garnet ring by Marta Howell, $148 at Jewelry by the Bay.

Opposite: Blouse by Chloé, $695 at Saks Fifth Avenue. Flounced silk shorts by Leifsdottir, $198 at Anthropologie (Corte Madera) 415.924.4197. Lorena boots by Me Too, $129 at Nordstrom (Corte Madera) 415.927.1690. Purse by SAS, $105 at shoebuy.com. Brush Stroke necklace by DLC Brooklyn, $160 at dlcbrooklyn.com. In The Loop bracelet, $28 at Anthropologie. Sterling silver collection ring, $168 at Jewelry by the Bay. Sunglasses, $24 at Anthropologie. Tights by Commando, $34 at Nordstrom.

Above: Coat by Oscar de la Renta, $2,890 at Wilkes Bashford (SF) 415.986.4380. Mary One Shoulder Lace Top by Porcelain, $177 at BellJar (SF) 415.626.1749. Faux Astracan Mischa skirt by Cynthia Steffe, $395 at cynthiasteffe.com or by calling 212.403.6200. Shoes by Rock & Republic, $395 at Shaw Shoes (SF) 415.922.5676. Clutch by Deux Lux, stylist’s own. Watch by Lumi Nox, $695 at Gene Hiller (Sausalito) 415.332.3636. Opposite: Coat by Bod & Christensen, $285 at bodchristensen.com or by calling 514.383.7161. Circle scarf, $37 at American Apparel (SF) 415.440.3220. Earmuffs by Ugg, $75 at Item Shoes (Larkspur) 415.925.0109. Umbrella, $34 at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF) 415.986.4300.

Silk blouse by Leifsdottir, $148 at Anthropologie (Corte Madera) 415.924.4197. Dixie cotton trousers by Cartonnier, $98 at Anthropologie. Shoes by Manolo Blahnik, $765 at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF) 415.986.4300. Studded flap bag by Valentino, $1,495 at Saks Fifth Avenue. Twist scarf, $14 at American Apparel (SF) 415.440.3220.

Above: Dress by Valentino, $1,990 at Wilkes Bashford (SF) 415.986.4380. Paige patent flats by Me Too, $89 at Nordstrom (Corte Madera) 415.927.1690. Opposite: Dress with feather skirt by MICHAEL Michael Kors, $375 at Michael Kors (SF) 415.227.0800. Shoes by Michael Kors, $550, at Michael Kors. Quilted leather purse by Marc Jacobs, $850 at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF) 415.986.4300. Fur felt hat by Helen Kaminski, $295 at Mill Valley Hat Box (Mill Valley) 415.383.2757. Gloves by Hilts-Willard, $125 at Gene Hiller (Sausalito) 415.332.3636. Muan brass earrings by DLC Brooklyn, $85 at dlcbrooklyn.com.

This page: Blazer by Calvin Klein, $1,450 at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF) 415.986.4300. Sequined deep-pocket pleat-front pant by MICHAEL Michael Kors, $225 at Michael Kors (SF) 415.227.0800.

Leather platform pumps by Elizabeth and James, $325 at Saks Fifth Avenue. Necklace by SNO of Sweden, $140 at Jewelry by the Bay (Sausalito) 415.332.0660. Rhinestone bracelet, available at J.Crew (Corte Madera) 415.927.2005.

Opposite: Top by Maisonette 1977, $395 at 212.695.5770. Cosmopolitan earrings by DLC Brooklyn, $99 at dlcbrooklyn.com.

To see our behind-thescenes video of this fashion shoot, go to marinmagazine/ fallfashion.

Destinations

THE LATEST LOCAL TRAVEL DEALS AND GETAWAYS PLUS JOURNEYS AROUND THE GLOBE

THE BEATEN PATH

We veer off the roads most traveled to discover true aloha.

BY MIMI TOWLE

HAWAI‘I OFF

Ancient fish ponds can be found on the eastern coast of Moloka‘i.

Ahhh, the tropics … hammocks swaying, ocean waves lapping on the shore, squawks from a bird in the distance happily living out her feathered existence in an island paradise. As many vacationers fi nd out on their fi rst visit to these popular island destinations, paradise might look more like a fi lled-to-capacity mega-resort. While there is much fun to be had on those people-fi lled, action-packed types of trips,

the following places — culled from the experiences of our readers — are located along the roads less traveled.

E A Place for Adventure

With a population topping 7,000 (at most), Moloka‘i — aka the friendly isle — is the least developed of the main islands. It is also a popular destination for adventure travelers and romantics looking for a more rugged and generally less expensive tropical vacation. The

biggest barrier is entry. Most visitors arrive by small plane or the Moloka‘i ferry, which crosses the famously choppy Kaiwi channel from Lahaina Harbor on Maui. A small percentage of visitors arrive by boat, such as Mill Valley’s Mike Ratiani, who grew up on Oahu and estimates he has anchored his boat off these shores at least 30 times. “We used to stay off Papohaku beach, one of my favorite stretches of sand in the world,” he says. “Its beauty is hard to match anywhere on the

Clockwise from far left: Infi nity pool at the Hawai’i Island Retreat; the world’s tallest sea cliffs (4,000 feet) on the north shore of Moloka‘i; Moloka‘i’s Papohaku Beach; Paia Inn on the north shore of Maui.

planet.” Ratiani also has fond memories of the friendly locals at Kaunakakai Harbor, where he and his family would tie up on the long pier and share their catch in return for a hot local meal. “I especially remember that Kalaupapa, the former leper colony, was a tough place to land. We would contemplate how hard it must have been for the lepers who arrived to their new home by being pushed overboard on the upwind side of the small peninsula and left to fend for themselves.”

Moloka‘i, according to Ratiani, offers a true island experience with friendly people and awesome natural beauty. No frills — but lots of thrills. Today, Kalaupapa Village is still home to a few remaining patients and operates as a national park. It is only open to adults and accessible by a steep trail via hiking, a mule ride or plane. Another main attraction on the island is its surrounding coral fringe reef system — the largest in the Hawaiian islands — which is home to bountiful wildlife. It was off Moloka‘i that Ratiani saw a 60-foot whale shark swim alongside his 30-foot sailboat. “On the southwestern corner of the island the ocean current moves eastward and pushes deepwater nutrients and the creatures that feed on them near the island,” he says. “It was my fi rst — and possibly only — peek at a whale shark. It was pretty awesome; a sight I will never forget!”

Despite the abrupt 2008 closing of the main hotel, the Moloka‘i Ranch Lodge — brought on by a kerfuffle between the owner and the community regarding the further development of 200 multimillion-dollar homes on sacred lands — visitors have continued to enjoy the natural beauty via the various accommodations on the island. Ratiani looks forward to bringing his family back to Moloka‘i soon, but instead of sleeping on a boat, he’ll book a room at the Hotel Moloka‘i, a comfortable, simple and clean hotel right on the beach. Rooms start at $159; hotelmolokai.com.

E A Place for Affordable Luxury

To many visitors, Lana‘i is synonymous with luxury and expense — possibily due to the two Four Seasons properties on this relatively small island. However, for travel writer Jeanette Valentine of soulamerica.com, Lana‘i is not only affordable but also accessible. She prefers the inexpensive Hotel Lana‘i — a privately owned boutique hotel located on the only main road on the island — which offers a true local experience.

“Vacationers with big bucks might dismiss Hotel Lana‘i in favor of the only other two

hotels on the island,” she says, “but it would be their loss.” Considered a historical building, Hotel Lana‘i was built in 1923 by James Dole with 11 guest rooms as lodging for visiting executives. For 70 years the structure on this pineapple plantation served as the only hotel on the island. “Hotel Lana‘i reminded me of a bed-and-breakfast with bright cozy rooms and a continental breakfast served on a light-fi lled veranda,” she says, “and I couldn’t ask for greater convenience.” The hotel sits just yards from Lana‘i’s main shopping district, lined with quaint art galleries

and restaurants serving tasty fare. Rooms start at $99; hotellanai.com.

Beachgoers have access by shuttle to Hulopoe Bay, a public beach on the southern tip of the island (and marine preserve). While the lounge chairs, towels and umbrellas are available only to the guests of the Four Seasons Resorts, snorkels, scuba and kayaks are available through Trilogy excursions (sailtrilogy. com) during the week. For a more adventurous tour including shipwrecks and crowds of sea turtles, Trilogy will pick you up at the hotel to explore one of the longest barrier reefs in the

entire state. Land lovers can play golf on one of the island courses, rent a jeep or bikes, ride horses or hike through the mountainous terrain on the eastern side of the island.

E A Place for Hiking and Sightseeing

Photographer Ben Davidson of Fairfax has been going to Hawai‘i regularly since he was 13, where he learned how to drive in the sugarcane fields of Maui in a rented VW bug. Now in his early 50s, he says that after many trips to O‘ahu, Moloka‘i and the Big Island, Kaua‘i

Moloka‘i, according to Ratiani, is a true island experience with friendly people and awesome natural beauty. No frills — but lots of thrills.

is, hands down, his favorite Hawaiian island. “It’s paradise: small yet diverse, incredibly green and lush in some parts and arid and windswept in others,” he says. “The island boasts waterfalls, rivers, mountains, hidden valleys, rugged coastline, pristine scenery, incredible hiking, beaches and small towns that retain an authentic aloha spirit and where the weather changes minute by minute.”

What’s not to love? His favorite off-thebeaten-path property on the island is Waimea Plantation Cottages on the western side. Davidson found the property while on a multisport (biking, hiking and kayaking) photo assignment for an adventure travel company. “The spacious plantation grounds had rustic cottages spread throughout the property and a relaxing, uncrowded feel that is very unlike the modern, large resorts of the island,” he says. While the black-sand beach fronting the property is not suitable for swimming, there are white-sand options such as Salt Pond Beach and Kekaha Beach nearby. The property is also situated near Waimea Canyon and the Na Pali coast. For a stunning visual of this famously dramatic coastline opt for a sunset snorkeling excursion with one of the many tour companies. Inland, hikers and sightseers can see for themselves why the area is called Waimea, which means “reddish water” in Hawaiian. The name aptly applies to the erosion of the canyon’s red soil, as rivers and floods cascaded down the slopes of Mount

Clockwise from far left: Hammock at Waimea Plantation Cottages; Paia Inn on Maui; Waimea Canyon, Kaua‘i; sunset on Kaua‘i; Hotel Lana‘i.

Wai‘ale‘ale for thousands of years. Speaking of the soil, don’t pack your nice white pants, because, as Davidson says, “the red dirt of the region has notorious staining power.”

Overall, Davidson recommends the Waimea Plantation Cottages to couples seeking a casual, romantic relaxed getaway, families whose kids need a lot of room to roam and bridal and honeymoon couples. Cottages start at $238 per night; waimeaplantation.com.

E A Place to Surf

With more than 2.5 million visitors on the ever-popular island of Maui last year alone, fi nding one’s own private slice of paradise can be a challenge. This, however, does not apply to Janie Simon of Larkspur, who owns a home on the hip north shore in the lush town of Haiku. This summer Simon had an unusually high number of houseguests and had to fi nd an emergency overflow option.

Having heard great things about the Paia Inn — located in the town of the same name just a few miles down the road from Haiku — she gave the place a try and she and her guests were not disappointed. While it’s off the beaten path, this petite boutique has collected some interesting accolades such as “World’s Sexiest Hotel Staff ” from Condé Nast Traveler and “Fashionable Cool, Unfussy Hotel” according to The New York Times. What attracted Simon to the 15-room inn was the fact that it was right on the beach. “The location was ideal — basically a few steps down from downtown Paia, with great restaurants like Flatbread Pizza (love their salads), Cafe des Amis and the Paia Fish Market, as well as galleries and my favorite massage studio.” Simon was also pleased with the amenities like nice sheets, fl at screen TVs and wireless. Best yet, the price was right. Rooms start at $189; paiainn.com.

Another upcountry (i.e., not on the beach) property Simon likes is the historic Haiku Cannery Bed and Breakfast, situated in the middle of a lush tropical forest. “Not only do they have a great masseuse,” says Simon, “but also a bounty of fresh tropical fruit available to pick such as lilikoi, passion fruit, coconut, breadfruit, avocado, lychee, bananas and guavas.” Another fun touch is that much of the furniture, cabinets and flooring is handcrafted by the owners from hardwoods grown and sustainably harvested on Maui. Guests can choose to be in the inn or a separate two-bedroom cottage. Rates start at $95; haikucanneryinn.com.

Wherever one chooses to stay, the north shore is perhaps most famous for the windsurfi ng and kiting beaches as well as the infamous surf break known as “Jaws.” Interested in lessons? Simon sends all of her mainland friends to Alan Cadiz, who has

been teaching windsurfi ng for more than 25 years through his HST school and has added kiteboarding and paddleboarding as these sports have become popular. Cadiz offers a variety of lesson options or rentals out of nearby Kanaha Beach. However, for those who don’t want to schedule or pay for their water time, Paia Inn has a bevy of boogie boards and beach toys for its guests to use on a complimentary basis.

E A Place to Swim

Waikiki, an international vacation destination located next to the business district of Honolulu, has a reputation for all-night partying and bikini-packed beaches. For those looking for a more quiet O‘ahu experience, turn left (instead of right) out of Honolulu International Airport and head across the island, 26 miles to the North Shore, which is exactly what newlyweds Neka Pasquale and

5 th Night Free* August 14 through December 22, 2011

*Based on availability. See website for details.

Christian O’Donnell explores a remote beach on O‘ahu’s North Shore.

Destinations

Christian O’Donnell did this summer for their honeymoon. They chose O‘ahu because neither of them had spent much time on that island and heard that the North Shore was great for swimming in the summer. They also knew they wanted a sure thing (which to them is a resort property) minus the crowds (their own beach cottage).

Turtle Bay Resort fi lled the bill, and it worked out perfectly for them. “Our cottage was quiet with amazing ocean views and hammocks strung across the grass with lots of plumeria trees — it was so relaxing,” says O’Donnell. “We hiked on private beaches and picnicked in a gorgeous remote cove. I especially enjoyed the spa, yoga and Pilates classes. We both enjoyed the couples seaside massage.” The pair kept their distance from the hustle and bustle of the hotel except for a few meals at the beachfront restaurant, OLA, which was their favorite on the property.

For leisure they explored the culinary gems in the nearby town of Haleiwa. “I loved the Beet Box Cafe in the Celestial Natural Foods store; they use all organic produce and make fresh juices and smoothies, and the store has a super cool vibe,” says Pasquale. “The avocado toast on fresh bread sprinkled with pink salt was fun to share, and I loved the breakfast of two organic eggs over brown rice, black beans and thick slices of avocado, smothered in fresh salsa, on sprouted corn tortillas. I ate that at least every other day.” Overall, what the couple liked most about their vacation was the laid-back vibe and friendly people of the North Shore, swimming in the ocean, and fi nding that perfect getaway with all the comforts of a nice resort. Cottages at Turtle Bay start at $559 per night; turtlebayresort.com.

E A Place for Peace

The Big Island — the youngest and still growing thanks to the active volcano Kilauea on the northern side of the island — is often known for its luxe accommodations, such as the Four Seasons Hualalai and Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. While these high-end hotels attract guests from around the world with their 400-plus thread counts, specialty cocktails and attentive staff, some vacationers — like our managing editor, Julie Sinclair

— are called to the Big Island for more than mai tais and a suntan.

Sinclair describes her fi rst couple of experiences on the Big Island as staying at large family-oriented resorts, noting that they were the perfect introduction to the island. Little by little, though, with each successive visit, Sinclair felt she was able to experience a deeper connection to Hawai‘i by trying smaller, independent properties. “The big resorts were wonderful, but there was something missing for me,” she says. “There was defi nitely a shift in my experience once I started sleeping without air-conditioning and allowed myself to fully connect with the island’s elemental qualities: rain forest, volcano, hot springs, lava fields.”

Her “really-get-to-know” Hawai‘i trip began with a two-week stay at the 30-yearold nonprofit Kalani Oceanside Retreat in the tropical Puna district on the island’s southeastern shore. She was there for a three-week immersion course to study an energetic healing modality, and between classes she would swim at the nearby blacksand beach (dolphins playing just on the other side of the breakers), head to Hilo to shop (where Spam sandwiches sold in delis provided another surprise) or just kick back at the retreat’s pool.

Accommodations at Kalani range from tent camping to hales (with shared bathrooms) to multiroom lodges with private

Ocean breezes cool yoginis at the Hawai‘i Island Retreat.

baths. Food, all organic, is served up informally three times a day in a lanai. Only a 45-minute drive south from the Hilo Airport, Kalani offers workshops and personal retreats year-round. Day trips might include a visit to Kilauea, one of the world’s most active volcanoes, and the thermal spring pool at Ahalanui Park up the coast. Sinclair also did a one-day drive around the entire island, beginning in the early morning and arriving on the western coast north of Kona in time to watch the sun set from Kekaha Kai State Park.

“Each day brought moments of profound connection with nature,” she remembers. “Just across the road from Kalani’s front entrance, I’d walk to dramatic lava cliffs, from which I’d meditate on the ocean while large sea turtles swam below. With no TVs, and cellphone reception being spotty, it’s an amazing place to unplug and refresh.” Rates start at $40 per night for camping, $90 for a lodge room with a shared bath; kalani.com.

The next spot she visited on a subsequent visit — the 11-room, Hawai‘i Island Retreat — offered an equally authentic Hawaiian experience, but this time in a more luxe environment. Her meditation here involved the soundtrack of rustling pines being tossed about by the sometimes-strong breezes or the roar of the ocean from the nearby beach. Walking its talk as an eco-boutique hotel and spa, the property sits on 50 acres of gardens and wilderness in the famed Waipio Valley of North Kohala. “I had some of the freshest food I’ve ever eaten (including fresh goat milk); had an amazing massage; and enjoyed exploring the grounds of the property, which include an ancient stone circle and a ‘grandmother stone’ named Tutu that was part of the island’s history,” says Sinclair. “I was grateful for the owners’ dedication to making my experience as serene and soulful as possible, and it turned out to be profound. I left feeling more connected to the Big Island than ever.” All rooms, which start at $425, have private balconies and overlook the garden as well as ocean or valley; hawaiiislandretreat.com.

No matter what you are looking for, the islands of Hawai‘i offer an escape from the everyday — and sometimes even more so when veering off the road well travelled. m

SAVOR TAHOE

Calling all foodies: Get ready for the second annual Lake Tahoe Restaurant Week, October 2–9. The restaurants vary in cuisine and price point but are all handselected due to their popularity. Each one will offer three-course, prix-fixe menus for $20–$40 per person. This year the lineup includes Manzanita Lake Tahoe (RitzCarlton), Wolfdale’s Cuisine Unique in Tahoe City, Lone Eagle Grille (Hyatt in Incline Village), Soule Domain on the north side, PlumpJack in Squaw and Edgewood Restaurant near the state line. tahoe restaurantweek.com

3 Suite Deals Around the Bay

Have the travel bug but don’t want to venture too far? These three great packages range in location from the city to the wine country.

1

San Francisco Fling

Looking for an ultimate San Francisco romantic getaway?

Consider Hotel Palomar’s

“Date Night,” which includes an executive king room (free movie rental of Date Night); a mixology cocktail kit; a $50 credit at the award-winning, on-site restaurant Fifth Floor; and use of DBC City Bikes in the morning. Starting at $259; hotelpalomar.com

2

Fun in Napa

Visit downtown Napa for a bit of uptown fun. The lovingly restored historic Uptown Theater attracts A-listers on a regular basis. Combine dinner, lodging and a show with the “A Night in Napa to Remember” package, including lunch or dinner options at French Laundry, La Toque or Morimoto, and lodging at Avia Hotel, Villagio Resort and Spa or the Meritage Resort. Starting at $699; uptowntheater.com

3

Sonoma Celebration

Head up to Sonoma to celebrate The Lodge at Sonoma Renaissance Resort & Spa’s 10-year anniversary with its “Delightful Decade” package. Includes a luxury guestroom and breakfast. Starting at $259; thelodgeatsonoma.com

GO BEARS!

For die-hard Cal Football fans, this year’s change of venue to AT&T Park due to the renovation of California Memorial Stadium has just been enhanced.

LEED-certified Orchard Hotel in San Francisco is offering a 15 percent discount for alumni heading to the game. theorchard hotels.com

The Line on Wine

What better way to stock your wine cellar than to spend quality time sampling the goods? Here are a few newly opened tasting rooms and events for your sipping pleasure .

1 Livermore Decompress with a stay-and-play package at Wente Vineyards. This includes tasting the award-winning 2008 syrah and 2006 chardonnay from Annika Vineyards, a partnership between pro golfer Annika Sorenstam and winemaker Karl Went. wentevineyards.com

2 Healdsburg

Visit the Bacigalupi family’s newly opened tasting room. After three years of planning, the family is showcasing their estate vineyard wines such as the John Tyler label. johntylerwines.com

3 St. Helena

Check out Ovid Vineyards (which just released its Experimental A2.7) on Pritchard Hill overlooking Napa Valley. Will the new wine make the list with other Pritchard Hill premium cult faves? Decide for yourself. Appointments only. ovidvineyards.com

4 South Lake Tahoe

Taste wine from the award-winning Jodar Vineyards & Winery (a small family-owned winery located in the Sierra Foothills) at the Sample the Sierra South Lake Tahoe event September 4. samplethesierra.com

5 Yountville Somerston has just opened a tasting room on its 1,682-acre estate, high in the eastern mountains of Napa Valley above Lake Hennessey. Enjoy a vista-fi lled flora-and-fauna vineyard tour on an all-terrain vehicle. somerstonwineco.com

OH, CANADA

The largest city in British Columbia is celebrating its 125th anniversary in style, from culinary tours to harbor tours (by boat, stand-up paddleboarding or kayak). Tourism Vancouver is offering a $125 gift card to visitors booking a two-night stay at participating hotels. Or better yet, aim for the top prize of $5,000 including airfare and accommodations at any of three Fairmont hotels. tourismvancouver.com/125

Ovid Winery’s spectacular view of Napa Valley from its tasting room. Below: Wine tasting is available daily at Somerston.

City of Treasures

HONG KONG, BACK IN THE HANDS OF THE CHINESE FOR MORE THAN A DECADE, IS AN ONGOING STUDY OF OLD AND NEW.

by Mimi Towle • photos by David Handschuh

The Peninsula offers a great vantage point for Hong Kong’s nightly 8 p.m. Symphony of Lights show.

Ihad to close my eyes to absorb the depth of history that surrounded me in the lobby of Hong Kong’s iconic Peninsula hotel as I stood in line for afternoon tea. Built in 1928 for European rail travelers as luxury lodging in the middle of a quiet backwater of the Kowloon peninsula, this now 300-room hotel has famously hosted the who’s who of the 20th century. While countless American tourists have stayed here on Asian sightseeing adventures, the roster also included foreign dignitaries, royalty and Hollywood celebrities such as Clark Gable. (Back in 1953 when Gable was fi lming Soldier of Fortune, he famously gave the hotel his recipe for a screwdriver cocktail after a then-17-year-old Johnny Chung — still employed at the hotel today — was confused by the request and brought Gable the tool instead of the drink.)

Unwelcome occupants of the lobby over the years include the Kempetai (feared secret police of the Japanese army), who on December 25, 1941, took over the hotel as their military headquarters for nearly four years and renamed it the Toa Hotel. As soon as the Japanese were defeated, The British took back control of Hong Kong, the New Territories and Kowloon, and “The Pen” (as The Peninsula was called) was able to return civility to everyday life in the city via scones, cucumber sandwiches and white table clothes. And now it’s almost my turn to sip from one of the world’s most coveted cups of tea. I had waited 40-odd years to get here, so what’s another 30 minutes for a table?

THE WAIT GAVE ME TIME TO CONTEMPLATE my initial impression of this city of over 7 million. I knew I would be overwhelmed with its density (6,300 people per square kilometer) and unabashed capitalism. (Prada, for instance, which recently chose to go public in the Hong Kong Stock Market, projects sales to be in the neighborhood of more than $2.7 billion this year, selling mostly to Asian customers.) The pollution, however, was not as bad as I expected. And, being a famously vertical city with award-winning architecture, Hong Kong — with its eye candy of a skyline — far exceeded my expectations.

What I didn’t expect was that from the moment I arrived at the Hong Kong International Airport I felt like I belonged. Stepping off the plane, I was greeted by a soothing female voice on the PA system that I assume was saying “welcome to Hong Kong International Airport” in various languages. I wasn’t sure where I was going, and before I knew it, I found myself on a shuttle

— unfortunately the wrong one — sandwiched on all sides by strangers, reminding me of my commuting days on San Francisco’s 30 Stockton. Uncharacteristically, I relaxed and enjoyed the confusion. In all fairness, my relaxed state could have been attributed to the prior 12-hour slice of heaven on the Cathay Pacific fl ight. I had departed SFO at midnight, tucked myself into a luxe business-class sleeping pod, slept 10 hours and awoke to breakfast being served. I watched two episodes of Modern Family and started my day fresh in Hong Kong the next morning.

After a bit of charades, shoulder shrugging and showing my ticket to anyone who seemed to be able to help me, I managed to get on the right shuttle and connect with my travel companions, Adryn and Becca. We made our way to customs, which was unexpectedly easy to get through. What wasn’t easy was changing money. I laughed out loud when the money-change agent scolded me, pointing me out of the line so I could figure out if I wanted Hong Kong dollars or Chinese yen. Was there a diff erence? I should have done my homework. Hong Kong, though taken back from the British by the People’s Republic of China in 1997, is considered a Special Administrative Region (like Macau). There’s a different currency, and English is widely spoken. Hong Kong, as I learned on my short twoday visit, exists in its own universe.

NEITHER ADRYN, BECCA NOR I CAME TO HONG Kong to shop, but we all wanted to pick up a few items to bring home. With a tight schedule ahead of us, we knew the time to hit the famous inexpensive markets of the Mong Kok district near The Peninsula would be the afternoon of our arrival. After unpacking and soaking in the views of the bay and expanse of Hong Kong Island from our rooms, we stepped out to find the Jade Market before it closed at 5 p.m.

As we browsed the crowded aisles in the large indoor Jade Market, a grandmotherish-looking vendor with passable English approached us. Wearing a black turtleneck with a stunning green jade pendant, she was lightly aggressive but mostly friendly as she showed us how to hold jade up to the light to judge it. According to her, clarity equaled the real thing, while lines or spots meant that it was probably a lesser-quality quartz. She also told us how the Chinese written character for jade meant beauty and purity and how it is associated with long life and good health. And then, remarking on our fortunate timing, she offered us “the last customer of the day” deal. Adryn took the bait while I moved on past tables spilling over with bracelets, rings, trinkets, statues and necklaces — doing my best to not show interest. With no prices listed, I had to constantly ask, “How much?” I don’t bargain, so I walked

This page: From the lobby to the kitchen, The Peninsula evokes luxury and fine living. Opposite: The vibrant street markets are rich with treasures.

out with a tiny dolphin and tiny horse statue for each of my daughters, along with two small astrological pendants, marking their birth years. For the same ($24 U.S.) Adryn bought two beautiful bracelets and a green jade pendant on a silver chain. Again, I should have done my homework, and I should have bargained.

It was closing time at the Jade Market, and fortunately the complimentary “champagne ride” on the Victoria Harbor provided by The Pensinula during the winter months for its guests was an ideal way to spend the next two hours as we waited for the Temple Street Night Market to open. The crisp salt air mingled with the brilliance of the city lights as the ferry bounced through the gentle waves. The three of us stood on the bow, cold wind blowing through our hair, and we toasted our adventure. Revived, we descended upon the night market, noting tourists and locals alike bent over little outdoor tables balancing bowls of noodles and plates of grilled meats. We were hungry enough to pull up a seat, but we had more shopping to do.

After resisting the urge to splurge at the Jade Market, I fi nally broke down and, of course, had to buy some chopsticks and Homer Simpson boxer shorts. I would have bought a gorgeous orange knockoff Gucci bag for $40, but when the vendor insisted I buy another one for my daughter

nodding toward Becca (who is only 10 years younger than I am), my pride stepped in and I closed my wallet.

THE NEXT MORNING, THE THREE OF US MET after breakfast for a hike. Our guide, Stephanie, who had attended college in the Midwest but grew up and now lives in Hong Kong, offered us invaluable cultural insight. On schedule, she picked us up at 8 a.m. to hike a wooded trail of the New Territories (a 30-minute drive from the hotel to the starting point), take a peek at the ancient fortune tellers of Lung Mo Temple and drive through the bustling central fi nancial district to have lunch in my now-favorite Vietnamese restaurant in Hong Kong, Nhu Trang.

The pain of waking up for our morning hike was eased by our excitement to explore the city. Even the drive to it was a thrill to witness from a cab window. We saw a busy Hong Kong waking up, high-rise apartments going up as fast as they were being torn down, and familiar storefronts like Starbucks, Nike and Apple. Stephanie signed us up for a hike with Splendid Tours. Like Marin, Hong Kong is known for its open space, with a surprising 70 percent of the land left undeveloped. The brochure described our adventure as a retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city. We would travel up the slopes of Tai Mo Shan, the highest mountain

in Hong Kong, to an authentic tea house in a rural setting that serves tea brewed from a mountain spring. There, we could mingle with local villagers before strolling by pristine watercress fields, escorted by a personal guide toward Lung Mo Temple and the Yuen Yuen Institute, a Taoist temple built in the 1950s.

I expected to fi nd a traditional, ornate tea house, but it turned out to be more like someone had left the back door of a large kitchen in a private home open. Using the honor system, visitors go in, get their tea and snacks, and then wash their dishes. We skipped the tea and walked down a narrow path to enjoy time in the village’s temple, which is hundreds of years old. (Every Chinese village has one, according to Stephanie.) After a 50-something man wearing flip-flops, an untucked white button-down shirt and black pants (whom I presumed lived in the village) walked out, we were alone in this small, ancient space. We took in the views — fluffy, gray clouds drifting over Hong Kong; a mega-city surrounded by forested mountains and water. Just as Becca settled down in the temple entry — a cement step separating the inside from the outside world — to post a photo on Facebook, Stephanie quickly explained that no one is supposed to touch the partition. (Apparently, stepping or sitting on this stone could result in ghosts following you home.) Beyond the entry was a small open courtyard, and the smell of incense seemed to penetrate the stone walls. An altar, scattered with the burned red paper of prayer offerings left earlier that day, dominated the rear of the small room. As we left, I couldn’t stop wondering about what the prayers might have been for.

We made our way back down the mountain. Narrow paved cobblestone roads were separated by the basic two-story cement homes of the village. I noticed that one of buildings had an open-air restaurant on the roof with birdcages hanging above the tables and asked Stephanie if the birds were on the menu. “Nope, they are pets of the customers,” she said. “We don’t have enough room to have dogs or cats, so birds are the perfect pet; they are social and beautiful and don’t take up much room — and they are portable.” She told us how her grandfather dotes on his squawky mynah bird, much to the chagrin of her grandmother, who continually scolds him for the time he wastes with his beloved feathered friend.

As we continued down the rocky path away from the village, we noticed two men setting up their birdcages in low-hanging tree branches. One man squatted on a rock above his bird as he whistled; a blanket covered half of

While it feels exhilarating to be in this flush economy having come from one of belt-tighening back at home, I learn extravagance is nothing new here.

the cage. I could smell the smoke from the cigarette he held loosely between his fi ngers. Time seemed to stop as a breeze lifted the light branches. He quietly (and reverently) moved the blanket exposing more of the bird, or, from the bird’s perspective, opening up the blue sky. My weight then shifted, crunching the pebbles below my feet, and he became aware of us. Based on the look of his furrowed brow, we were not welcome. I could have watched for hours but took the hint and moved on. “These people have entirely too much time on their hands,” said Stephanie as we continued. I told her she is definitely out of the same mold as her grandmother and pointed out that in this city of progress and change it was nice to see a person simply enjoying a quiet moment in the morning with his bird.

We continued on, breathing in the fresh air. Stephanie pointed out how villages in the old days were built a few miles apart, reminding me of books I’d read about China, like Wild Swan by Jung Chang, which describes village life, peasant women with large feet, horrible mother-in-laws and the cruelty of the cultural revolution.

Our two-hour hike ended at the Taoist Lung Mo Temple halfway down the mountain. In the temple, local women and men of all ages wearing everything from basic frocks to designer suits streamed past us. It was as if we were invisible. As they walked by, I noticed most carried plastic take-out bags loaded with styrofoam containers filled with steaming pork buns, chow mein and fried rice. Despite the lunch hour, this food wasn’t meant to be eaten. Instead, it was brought as an offering for the resident goddess the Dragon Mother, placed on a large table outdoors near the entrance. The smell of the food

Left: A merhcant at the Bird Market in Kowloon checks his cages. Birds are popular pets in Hong Kong because of the small living spaces.

mixed with the pungent aroma of smoldering incense overwhelmed my senses.

There were about 100 people coming in, praying, making an offering, and going about their days. Stephanie pulled us toward a woman who kneeled in front of a large altar shaking a bamboo cylinder called a Cim Bucket, fi lled with 100 Kau Cim — numbered sticks similar to popsicle sticks but painted red at one end. The woman carefully shook the container until one stick fell to the ground, then bowed to the altar and picked up the stick to check the number. She went to a cabinet and took out a corresponding message and got into line to have this message interpreted by one of the three fortune tellers at the temple. I learned that Taoists have been forecasting their futures for centuries using this numerical system and poem interpretation. I was fascinated by the thought that for thousands of years in this country, disputes about love, war and family have been settled by this system.

NOW, BACK AT THE HOTEL AS WE STAND IN line, I learn that waits are common for the afternoon traditional tea at The Peninsula, as they do not take reservations. (Tea starts every day at 2 p.m. and runs until 6:30. By 4:20, the line was 10 deep.) But the wait gave us ample time for peoplewatching. Ahead of us, a gaggle of giggling Chinese tweens holding matching and brightly colored Miu Miu handbags stand with their porcelain-skinned mothers, wearing

Chanel. “The tax-free status makes shopping a sport here,” Stephanie confi rms to Adryn, Becca and me as we tally up the value in handbags around the room. The total value, I share with them, could more than cover the Kiddo school fundraising needs for the year back in Marin.

While it feels exhilarating to be in this flush economy having come from one of belt-tightening back at home, I learn extravagance is nothing new here. Stephanie dazzles us with tales of Hong Kong’s excessiveness, such as how it has the most Rolls-Royce vehicles of any city on the planet or how massive demand for personalized license plates has made them a premium item. (One man paid $1.7 million a few years ago to have his plate read only the number 9 — a number considered lucky by the Chinese.)

Another indicator of wealth, I contemplate, is the current obsession with fi ne wines that I observed during my trip. Apparently, Hong Kong has taken over New York and London as the world’s largest wine auction center — likely because its 40 percent import tax on wine was eliminated. (I heard that a Château Lafite-Rothschild from 1869 sold for more than $200,000 at a Sotheby’s auction last year. And in January, California Vintage, the city’s fi rst and so far only wine bar, opened, featuring more than 88 premium wines by the glass.)

Finally, with a nod from the hostess, our time to experience The Peninsula tea had arrived. I should have been more excited about ordering tea, as I — and I suspect most of the others there — was there for The Peninsula’s entire high tea experience, which includes using most of the silverware and tea service made for the hotel back in 1928. Despite the fact that it seemed we’d just had lunch, I couldn’t resist a warm scone with clotted butter and raspberry jam, a smoked salmon bite-size sandwich and mini fruit tart.

In addition to my Earl Grey, I also ordered a glass of the house chardonnay from a Keller Estate property called La Cruz Vineyard in the Petaluma Gap. As I enjoyed the wine and looked around the room wondering how far the other tea-goers had traveled to get here, I thought about the amazing people and diverse culture I experienced during my stay and plotted my return to this lively city by the bay. m

Above: The Dragon Mother Temple in Hong Kong. Right: Lanterns decorate the ceiling of Lung Mo Temple.

Out & About

CALENDAR / ON THE SCENE / DINE

MUSEUMS

Legion of Honor

Dutch and Flemish Masterworks

LISTING ON PAGE 95

THEATER / COMEDY / MUSIC / GALLERIES / MUSEUMS / EVENTS / FILM EDITED BY DANIEL JEWETT

W THEATER

THROUGH SEPTEMBER 25

2012: The Musical The San Francisco Mime Troupe presents a musical satire about artistic integrity for its 52nd season. Various locations. 415.285.1717, sfmt.org

THROUGH

SEPTEMBER 25 The Complete History of America (Abridged) Three men take an irreverent romp through our nation’s past. Dominican University (San Rafael). 415.499. 4488, marin shakespeare.org

THROUGH SEPTEMBER 25 The Tempest A classic tale of revenge and forgiveness. Dominican University (San Rafael).

415.499.4488, marin shakespeare.org

1–29 How the Other Half Loves The lives and loves of three married couples unfold during two dinner parties. Novato Theater Company Playhouse (Novato). 415.883.4498, novato theatercompany.org

16–OCTOBER 16

Don’t Dress for Dinner A classic farce complete with mistaken identities and frustrated infidelity. The play is written by Marc Camoletti. Barn Theatre (Ross). 415.456.9555, rossvalleyplayers.com

S COMEDY

TUESDAYS Mark Pitta and Friends

The comic hosts an evening for up-and-

THEATER THROUGH SEPTEMBER 4

Seven Guitars August Wilson’s decadeby-decade exploration of the African American experience in the 20th century. Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). 415.388.5208, marintheatre.org

Mark Pitta

comers and established headliners to work on new material.

142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmorton theatre.com

N MUSIC

TUESDAYS Swing

Fever The band pays tribute to jazz artists and composers, playing selections from its roster of over 1,000 tunes. Panama Hotel (San Rafael). 415.457.3993, panamahotel.com

TUESDAYS Kortuzday

Jonathan Korty and Danny Uzilevsky host a weekly invitational jam that often attracts some big-name players and always produces some great music. 19 Broadway (Fairfax). 415.459.1091, 19broadway.com

5 Marin City Blues, Jazz and Soul Party in the Park This 14th annual event features live music, food, arts and crafts and benefits Blues in the Schools. Drake Avenue (Marin City). performingstars.org

9–NOVEMBER 25 S.F.

Opera The season opens with Puccini’s fi nal masterpiece with music direction by Nicola Luisotti. War Memorial Opera House (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com

11 Maria Muldaur and Her Red Hot Bluesiana Band The local songstress celebrates the release of her new CD Steady Love. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmorton theatre.com

12–13 Iggy and the Stooges The legendary Iggy Pop takes the stage with his Rock and Roll Hall of Fame band. The Warfield (SF). 415.345.0900, thewarfieldtheatre.com

14–17 S.F. Symphony

Michael Tilson Thomas conducts classical superstar Yo-Yo Ma. Davies Symphony Hall (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org

Diana Ross

Fresh. Local. Music.

Totally Tchaikovsky

Tchaikovsky—the ultimate romantic. Marin Symphony favorite Orion Weiss returns with the dazzling Piano Concerto No. 1. The orchestra raises the roof with Romeo and Juliet, Capriccio Italien and the bombastic 1812 Overture.

The brilliance of Orion Weiss started in pre-school, continued at the Julliard School of Music and has grown ever since. He’s performed with dozens of top orchestras and toured the world with the likes of Itzhak Perlman. Orion is known for expressing surprising energy and enthusiasm every time he performs. Don’t miss this magical opening matinee and night.

Sunday, Oct. 2, 2011 at 3pm Tuesday, Oct. 4, 2011 at 7:30pm

You’re invited to the Season-Opening Gala Celebrate Alasdair Neale’s 10th Anniversary on Sunday, October 2, 2011, at 5:30pm. Tickets at $125 each include both the champagne reception and dinner. Kick off a fresh local music season and honor 10 years of the magic our Maestro has shared with us!

MSMarin Symphony

Alasdair Neale, Music Director

16 The Commander Cody Band This classic band mixes everything from old-time rock ’n’ roll to country, boogiewoogie, Cajun and swing. George’s (San Rafael). 415.226.0262, georgesnightclub.com

17 Diana Ross A live string and horn section back up Ross as she performs all her hits. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

22 Return to Forever

A night of music featuring Chick Corea, Stanley Clarke, Lenny White, Jean-Luc Ponty and Frank Gambale. The Warfield (SF). 415.345.0900, thewar fieldtheatre.com

30 Concerts Under the Oak Enjoy the music of the Shuffle Kings, shopping and food as part of the summer music series. Northgate (San Rafael). 415.479.3212, shopatnorthgate.com

30–OCTOBER 2 Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Artists include Robert Plant, Buckethead, The Jayhawks, Chris Isaak and more. Speedway Meadow (SF). strictly bluegrass.com

E GALLERIES

MARIN

Acacia Gallery New works from Kathleen Lipinski, Steve Emery and Birgitta Kappe. 4162 Redwood Hwy, San Rafael. 415.479.3238, acaciagallery.net

Art Abloom Studio and Gallery Flowers and Faces Oil on canvas exhibit, through October. 751 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.256.1112, artabloom.com

Art Works Downtown Baulines Craft Guild Annual masters exhibit, through September 23. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119, artworksdowntown.org

Claudia Chapline Gallery Paintings and sculptures by Fred Blackman, Claudia Chapline, Italo Scanga and Harold Schwarm, through October. 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach. 415.868.2308, cchapline.com

Community Congregational Church Tondos A series of circular images. 145 Rockhill Dr, Tiburon. 415.435.9108, ccctiburon.net

Iggy Pop and the Stooges

Donna Seager Gallery

Emily Payne wire installation exhibit in main gallery, through October 15. 851 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.454.4229, donna seagergallery.com

Falkirk Cultural Center

Biannual Juried

Exhibition Work from Marin and Bay Area artists in multiple mediums, through November 5. 1408 Mission Ave, San Rafael. 415.485.3438, falkirkcultural center.org

Gallery Bergelli Iconic Marin Paintings by Bryn Craig, through October 19. 483 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.945.9454, bergelli.com

Gallery Route One

The Box Show Annual fundraiser in which 150 artists creatively decorate plain wood boxes, through September 18. 11101 Hwy One, Point Reyes Station. 415.663.1347, gallery routeone.org

Marin Arts A collection of prints from a photography contest, through September 9. 906 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.666.2442, marinarts.org

Marin Art and Garden Center Looking at Water Waterscapes by 13 Bay Area painters and photographers, through September 3. 30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.455.5260, magc.org

N Marine Mammal Center Washed Ashore Giant sculptures by Angela Haseltine Pozzi made from plastic ocean pollution. The show features 15 pieces from this nationally touring exhibit, through October 15. Enjoy a special workshop on September 17, Coastal Cleanup Day. 2000 Bunker Road, Sausalito, 415.289.7325, marine mammalcenter.org

Fresh. Local. Music.

Choose your favorite time: Sunday at 3 pm, or Tuesday at 7:30 pm

This season we’re excited to present a fresh new approach. Our 2011-2012 Season concerts on Sundays are happening at 3pm—opening up new possibilities and opportunities—making Your Marin Symphony experience more accessible to a wider audience. For those who prefer the classic ambience of evenings, Tuesday performances take place at their traditional time, starting at 7:30pm.

Share your passion with $10 Youth Pricing

For those of you who already love classical music, the new $10 price for a companion youth ticket makes it easy to give a new generation a chance to experience our local Symphony.

Don’t miss a beat: subscribe to the new season It’s the best way to assure you get the seats you want and take full advantage of the new season and music experiences Maestro Alasdair Neale has prepared for us. The benefits reach far beyond lower ticket prices—from picnics with players, priority seating and free companion concert tickets—to special events, easy ticket exchanges and transfers.

Contact us—we’re here to help you secure priority seating— reserved for subscribers through September 6th.

MSMarin Symphony

Alasdair Neale, Music Director

Washed Ashore

Out & About / CALENDAR

Marin Society of Artists Open fi ne arts show juried by Chester Arnold. 30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Ross. 415.454.9561, marin societyofartists.org

Mona Lease Gallery

Paintings by Harry Cohen, through October. 39 Greenbrae Boardwalk, Greenbrae. 415.461.3718, monalease.net

Northbay ArtWorks Artists for Awareness New work, through October 7. 7049 Redwood Blvd, Ste 208, Novato. 415.892.8188, northbayartworks.com

O’Hanlon Center for the Arts Alphabet Soup A juried show by Kathleen Burch, cofounder of the San Francisco Center for the Book. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanlon center.org

Robert Allen Fine Art California Coastal Landscapes A group exhibition featuring

eight artists, through September 30. 301 Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.2800, robert allenfi neart.com

Robert Beck Gallery

Early California plein air landscape show. 222 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.456.7898, beckgallery.org

Robert Green Fine Arts New paintings by Mark Erickson thru October. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgfi nearts.com

Smith Andersen North Ongoing work. 20 Greenfield Ave, San Anselmo. 415.455. 9733, smithandersen north.com

Studio 333 Ongoing exhibition featuring more than 50 Bay Area artists working with mixed media. 333A Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.8272, studio333.info

Studio 4 Art Work by local artists and workshops offering materials and classes. 1133 Grant Ave, Novato. 415.596.5546, studio4art.net

The Image Flow Photographs of rock musicians from the 1970s by Bill Green, through October 31. 401 Miller Ave, Ste F, Mill Valley. 415.388.3569, theimageflow.com

The Painters Place Oil paintings from Teresa Dong of Shanghai. 1139 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.461.0351, thepaintersplace.com

Tomales Fine Art Fine art oil paintings by Timothy Horn. 27050 Maine St, Tomales. 707.878.2525, tomalesfi neart.com

SAN FRANCISCO

ArtHaus Living for the City New paintings by Caroline Meyer. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com

Berggruen Gallery

Nathan Olizeira A memorial exhibition, through October 22. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com

Cain Schulte Gallery Forms of Time Work from Linda Karshran in graphite and paper. 251 Post St, 415.543.1550, cainschulte.com.

Elins Eagles-Smith Gallery Group show and art sale. 49 Geary St, 415.981.1080, eesgallery.com

Gallery 291 European Battlefields Work by Peter Hebeisen, through October 31. 291 Geary St, 415.291.9001, gallery291.net

George Krevsky Gallery Summer on the River Paintings by Maria Robertson, through September 10. 77 Geary St, 415.397.9748, georgekrevsky gallery.com

Gregory Lind Gallery

New paintings from Jake Longstreth, through October 22. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com

Meyerovich Gallery

Ongoing work. 251 Post St, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com

Paul Mahder Gallery

Natural Conversations Textural portraits by Paul Mahder with new sculptures by David Baughan. 3378 Sacramento St, 415.474.7707, paul mahdergallery.com

Rena Bransten Gallery Train Stations at Night Work by Matthias Hoch, through October 15. 77 Geary St, 415.982.3292, rena branstengallery.com

Weinstein Gallery Works by Pablo Picasso. 301 Geary St, 415.362.8151, weinstein.com

N MUSEUMS

MARIN

Bay Area Discovery Museum Curious George: Let’s Get Curious Get to know America’s favorite monkey with interactive math, science and engineering adventures, through September 11 (Sausalito). 415.339.3958, baykids museum.org

Bolinas Museum 19th Annual Auction Preview Exhibition Work from 40 Bay Area artists, through September 17 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org

Marin History Museum

Come see examples of local history from the museum’s 75 years of collecting community artifacts (San Rafael). 415.454.8538, marin history.org

Marin Museum of Contemporary Art Shattered The sixth annual national juried

Legion of Honor

Asian Art Museum

W Legion of Honor Dutch and Flemish Masterworks from the Rose-Marie and Eijk van Otterloo Collection One of the finest collections of 17th-century Dutch Old Masters belongs not to a museum but to private collectors. This season, the highly sought-after collection comes to San Francisco, through October 2 (SF). 415.750.3600, legionofhonor.org

exhibit is on, through September 25 (Novato).

415.506.0137, marin moca.com

Marin Museum of the American Indian Silver Stone Shell Jewelry of California and the Southwest including a look at the tools, materials and methods that artists have used over the centuries, through Jan. 15, 2012 (Novato). 415.897.4064, marin indian.com

BAY AREA

Asian Art Museum

Bali: Art, Ritual, Performance Find out why the Indonesian island is widely known as one of the most vibrant centers of both visual and performing arts in the world, through September 11 (SF). 415.581.3500, asianart.org

California Academy of Sciences Snakes and Lizards: The Summer of Slither Learn about

snakes and lizards with more than 60 examples from around the world, through September 5 (SF). 415.379.8000, calacademy.org

Conservatory of Flowers Wicked Plants

A garden of sinister delights inspired by Amy Stewart’s 2009 bestseller, through October 30 (SF). 415.831.2090, conserv atoryofflowers.org

Contemporary Jewish Museum Gertrude Stein: Five Stories Insight into one of the most influential Americans of the 20th century. The exhibit looks at Stein’s many identities and is based on new scholarship with material from the Smithsonian’s National Portrait Gallery, through September 6 (SF). 415.655.7800, thecjm.org

de Young Picasso: Masterpieces from the Musée National Picasso, Paris More than 100 masterpieces by Pablo Picasso are on display from the permanent collection of Paris’s Musée National Picasso. This exhibition is made possible by the closure of Musée Picasso for renovations, through October 9 (SF). 415.750.3600, thinker.org

A group exhibit that features meditations on troubled times and endof-the-world scenarios,

Does Your Bond Portfolio Need a Check-up?

Are you prepared for the possible impact of:

• Rising interest rates

• Deteriorating credit quality

• Market volatility

In today’s challenging financial environment, actively reviewing your bond portfolio may help you achieve your financial goals.

Call today to receive a complimentary copy of our newsletter and to arrange for your complimentary comprehensive bond portfolio evaluation.

Bonds are subject to interest rate risk. When interest rates rise, bond prices fall; generally the longer a bond’s maturity, the more sensitive it is to this risk. Bonds may also be subject to call risk, which is the risk that the issuer will redeem the debt at its option, fully or partially, before the scheduled maturity date. The market value of debt instruments may fluctuate, and proceeds from sales prior to maturity may be more or less than the amount originally invested or the maturity value due to changes in market conditions or changes in the credit quality of the issuer. Bonds are subject to the credit risk of the issuer. This is the risk that the issuer might be unable to make interest and/ or principal payments on a timely basis. Bonds are also subject to reinvestment risk, which is the risk that principal and/or interest payments from a given investment may be reinvested at a lower interest rate.

© 2011 Morgan Stanley Smith Barney LLC. Member SIPC.

di Rosa Preserve Zombie-Proof House

SFMOMA

Our covers.

Your walls.

Now you can buy Marin Magazine covers for your home or office. Available in various sizes, framed or unframed, with or without the Marin Magazine logo, these professional quality prints are a beautiful addition to any wall. Visit MARINMAGAZINE.COM/COVERART today.

Out & About / CALENDAR

through September 17 (Napa). 707.226.5991, dirosapreserve.org

Exploratorium

ColorFest From perception to pigments, the summer program features more than 30 color-related exhibits, through September 5 (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu

Museum of the African Diaspora Soulful

Stitching: Patchwork

Quilts by Africans (Siddis) in India The exhibit features 32 patchwork quilts made by Siddi women, through September 18 (SF). 415.358.7200, moadsf.org

San Francisco Museum of Craft and Folk Art

Wrapping Traditions:

Korean Textiles Now Artists from Korea and 10 other countries display different examples of traditional bojagi, the art of making wrapping cloths, through October 22 (SF). 415.227.4888, mocfa.org

SFMOMA The Steins

Collect: Matisse, Picasso, and the Parisian Avant-Garde

The works of Matisse, Picasso, Paul Cézanne, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Henri de ToulouseLautrec and others are on display as part

of a look at the Stein family’s (including writer Gertrude) modern art collection, through September 6 (SF). 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org

Sausalito Artiists @ Work

W EVENTS

THROUGH SEPTEMBER 24 Film Night in the Park The outdoor fi lm series returns. Various locations. 415.272. 2756, fi lmnight.org

3–5 Sausalito Artists @ Work Visit artists’ studios, see their work and shop for locally produced works of art. ICB Building (Sausalito). sausalitoartists.com

Yerba Buena Center for the Arts BAN6: Visual Arts Exhibition

The work of 18 artists and artist collectives is on display featuring an array of disciplines, through September 25 (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org

3–5 Sausalito Art Festival

The event features more than 20,000 original works and live music from The Human League, The Romantics, Men Without Hats and more. Marinship Park (Sausalito). 415.331.3757, sausalito artfestival.org

3–5 Shamanism and Alternative Healing Conference Meet shamans from around the world and participate in healing ceremonies. Dominican University (San Rafael). 415.383.3017, shaman ismconference.org

4 EcoFair Marin Learn about the latest and greatest sustainable products, see more than 50 green exhibits and hear from speakers. Fairgrounds (San Rafael). 415.519.5565, ecofairmarin.org

9 Opera Ball The S.F. Opera celebrates its 89th season. War Memorial Opera House (SF). 415.565.3204, sfopera.com

10 Sample Sale Get great deals on products like Kathy Kamei and Sarah Swell jewelry, Coco Delice and Nicole Lee Fine Chocolates at this one-day-only Marin Store sample sale. Town Center (Corte Madera). 415.332.4800, themarinstore.com

10–11 Chocolate Festival Enjoy wine and chocolate all benefiting Project Open Hand. Ghirardelli Square (SF). 415.775.5500, ghirardellisq.com

17 Coastal Cleanup Day

Join more than 80,000 volunteers in an effort to remove trash from state beaches, lakes and waterways. Various locations. coastal.ca.gov

E 24 Blackie’s Hay Day Enjoy pony rides, a petting zoo, climbing walls, tractor rides and more at this familyfriendly event. Blackie’s Pasture (Tiburon). black ieshayday.com

Blackie

17 Dipsea Hike and Run Run the Dipsea and help support Zero Breast Cancer of Marin. Old Mill Park (Mill Valley). 415.507.1949, zerobreastcancer.org

20 City Arts and Lectures The series kicks off with musician, singer-songwriter, producer, DJ and author Bob Mould in conversation with Shepard Fairey. Herbst Theatre (SF). 415.392.4400, cityarts.net

21 A Taste of Downtown San Rafael Sample hors d’oeuvres and wine from San Rafael businesses. Downtown (San Rafael). 415.720.5591, downtownsanrafael.org

24–25 2011 Tennis Classic Join John McEnroe and the Bryan brothers for this Celebrate Life Breast Cancer Foundation event. The Club (Mill Valley). 415.383.6114, tennisclassic.org

24–25 Mill Valley Fall Arts Festival Great art for sale is the focus but children’s activities, music and food are also attractions at this 55th annual event. Old Mill Park (Mill Valley). 415.381.8090, mvfaf.org

28 Tam Valley Speaker Series Zara McDonald discusses the California puma and the Bay Area Puma Project. Tam Valley Community Center (Mill Valley). 415.388.6393, tcsd.us

E 17 Floating Homes Tour Find out what it is like to live on the water in one of the most unique communities in the Bay Area on this 26th annual tour featuring 18 homes. Gateway Shopping Center (Marin City). 415.332.1916, floatinghomes.org

Gyorgy Pataki, MD INTERNAL MEDICINE

Sydney Sawyer, MD PEDIATRICS

Christine Jacobson, MD DERMATOLOGY

Floating Homes

30–OCTOBER 2

Sonoma County Harvest Festival

More than 150 wineries participate in this three-day wine tasting event. Fairgrounds (Sonoma). 707.545.4203, harvestfair.org

E FILM

15, 17 National Theater

Live The Lark Theater presents the hit comedy One Man, Two Guvnors by Richard Bean live in high defi nition. The Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.924.5111, larktheater.net

E NATURE WALKS & TALKS

10 WildCare Family Adventures Meet the tallest species of tree in the world and search for inhabitants of the forest.

Muir Woods National Monument parking lot. WildCare provides care for ill, orphaned or injured wild animals as well as nature and environmental education for children and adults. (Mill Valley). 415.453.1000, wildcarebayarea.org

21 Marin Scuba Club

Learn about traveling to the Southern Philippines. The Marin Scuba Club welcomes members who love to meet others interested in the sport and hear monthly discussions about diving. The Flatiron Saloon (San Rafael). 415.456.5628, marinscuba.org

N 17 Sunset Hike and Wine Find Join this local club for a monthly two-hour hike on moderate to steep trails on Mount Tamalpais with a mid-hike wine and cheese break. Reservations required. Meet other avid Marin hikers. Mountain Home Inn (Mill Valley). 415.331.0100, meetup. com/sunsethike

Accidents are Never Planned

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California Pacific Medical Center

Pediatric Emergency Department

California Campus 3700 California Street San Francisco 415-600-4444 cpmc.org/pedsed

Hiking Mt Tam

On the Scene

SNAPSHOTS FROM SPECIAL EVENTS IN MARIN AND SAN FRANCISCO EDITED BY SOMER FLAHERTY

W RIDE FOR THE HOMELESS

Celebrating the opening of the new larger Kiehl’s store at 1971 Fillmore Street, more than two dozen motorcyclists went on an epic ride from Fort Baker to Pacific Heights. The event raised $10,000 to support Homeless Prenatal Program, a local nonprofit whose mission is to break the cycle of childhood poverty.

E FILM EVENT

Marin resident and author Amy Tan moderated a Q&A session with Snow Flower and the Secret Fan director Wayne Wang at a screening of the film at the ILM Premier Theatre in San Francisco. The film tells the story of female friendship in 19thcentury China.

S ART EXHIBIT KGO’s Cheryl Jennings, a Marin resident, and Dominican University presented “Our Fertile Ground: Helping South African Children With HIV/AIDS” at the university’s Alemany Library. Featured were the photographs of Our Fertile Ground founders and monotype collage by Joe Blumenthal.

Chris SalgardoRebecca Gayheart, Billie Beatrice Dane, Eric Dane

Wendi Murdoch S.F. Mayor Ed Lee, Anita Lee, Amy Tan, Wayne Wang

Alison Pincus, Keith HenningtonJan Giddings, Dr. Marty Nelson, Cheryl Jennings, Sandi Chin

N CAR SHOW More than 5,000 car enthusiasts ogled 140 automotive industry jewels at Marin Sonoma Concours d’Elegance. A highlight of the event was when Hospice By The Bay’s Sandra Lew presented the annual Spirit of Caring award to Novato resident Gus Stremme for his 1955 Ford Thunderbird.

W DEBUTANTE BALL With the sounds of the Mike Carney Orchestra playing in the background, 25 local ladies curtsied into society at the annual Debutante Ball. A crowd of 500 cheered on the young women, who were swathed in white gowns and gloves. The event raised $120,000 for California Pacific Medical Center.

S INTERNATIONAL CARE The nonprofit health care provider Hospice By The Bay recently hosted a group commissioned by Singapore’s Ministry of Health to study programs to improve the county’s care for frail seniors and others needing quality end-of-life care. Marin’s Hospice By The Bay is the second-oldest hospice in the United States.

Gus Stremme, Sandra Lew

Tom Price, judging for the “best use of technology” award

Margaret Belshe, Chris Kimnitzer

Shealyn Mathews, Jack MathewsPeter Sanders, Alison Pugash

Dustin Groesbeck, Blake Groesbeck

Dr. Wong Loong Mun, Dr. Jennifer Lee, Marie-Louise Ansak, Hospice By The Bay CEO Sandra Lew, Eric Ho, Dr. Maria Abraham, Dr. Jason Cheah

DEALS ON MEALS

Deals on Meals

Enjoy local restaurants and save 30 percent on meals. Check out the participating restaurants in our “Deals on Meals” section and experience big savings. Spend only $35 for a dining certificate worth $50. Simply go to marinmagazine.com/dineout to purchase a dining certificate from a restaurant in this section and we will mail it to you. Try a new restaurant or purchase a certificate for an old favorite. A perfect gift for any occasion. Limited supply each month.

Dine local — save big time!

Frantoio Ristorante

152ShorelineHighway

415.289.5777

MillValley,CA frantoio.com

and two indoor fireplaces,

an evening with family and friends. Open daily, featuring a popular happy hour, from 4–7pm and ALL DAY Sunday with a

Tiburon Grill

1651TiburonBlvd.

Amici’s East Coast Pizzeria 1242FourthStreet

415.455.9777 SanRafael,CA amicis.com

415.435.5996

Tiburon tiburongrill.com

Dining in? Try one of the great recipes in Organic Marin. Produced by Marin Magazine, this seasonal cookbook celebrates the organic farmers of Marin County and over 40 delicious recipes from local restaurants. 35% off with the code DINEIN. Go to themarinstore.com/organicmarin

The Tiburon Grill serves delicious, contemporary grill cuisine. With two outdoor patios

Tiburon Grill is the ideal place to relax and enjoy

50% off selected menu.

Frantoio tantalizes your taste buds with it’s authentic Italian cuisine. Serving locally produced fruit, vegetables, seafoods and meats the restaurant supports the local economy wherever possible whilst remaining loyal to its Tuscan roots. Enjoy fantastic salads, pasta, pizza and entrees in an elegant yet relaxed setting.

Amici’s offers a taste of the Northeast’s distinctive Italian fare, including authentic thin-crust pizzas, and freshly made pastas and salads. Amici’s offers dine-in and takeout as well as delivery of their entire menu to local homes and businesses. A Gluten Free menu is also available at the San Rafael location.

The Counter offers all-natural, humanely-raised beef and 312,120+ combinations to build your own burger. The Counter is a great place for family, friends, great music and a full bar. Voted best burger in Bay Area by SFGate.com readers on Baylist 2011. ‘LIKE’ us on www.facebook.com/ TheCounterCorteMadera !

The Counter 201TownCenter

415.924.7000 CorteMadera,CA thecounterburger.com

and

The historic Cliff House offers awesome views from every angle and one of nature’s best shows every day. Dine in the casual Bistro Restaurant or the elegant Sutro’s at the Cliff House. Sunday Brunch in the Terrace Room is a Bay Area tradition with free-flowing champagne and a delicious buffet.

Cliff House 1090PointLobos

L’appart Resto

636SanAnselmoAve

415.256.9884 SanAnselmo,CA lappartresto.com

Cibo = Food We are open breakfast and lunch serving seasonally inspired food sourced locally from farmers and purveyors. Cibo serves Blue Bottle Coffee, House Made Panini, Savories, Pastries, Desserts, and now Straus organic soft serve ice cream in a contemporary dining environment with indoor and outdoor seating.

Cibo

1201Bridgeway

415.331.2426

Sausalito,CA cibosausalito.com

415.386.3330 SanFrancisco,CA cliffhouse.com

and

and

and a Wine Spectator award-winning wine list. Each month, a special regional dinner menu is featured. Groups of all sizes are welcome!

Il Fornaio

223CorteMaderaTownCtr

415.927.4400 CorteMadera,CA ilfornaio.com

Chianti Cucina, a family friendly Italian restaurant in Novato, welcomes you to our family, where great food, service and atmosphere await you. We invite you to our table, offering a casual and memorable experience. At Chianti Cucina, you’ll feel like a neighborhood regular. OpenTable.com Diner’s Choice Winner 2011.

Chianti Cucina

7416RedwoodBlvd.

415.878.0314 Novato,CA chiantinovato.com

Casual French bistro in the heart of San Anselmo. The sister restaurant of Le Garage Bistro in Sausalito offers simple

delicious French fare for lunch, brunch and dinner. Come and enjoy our beautiful terrace for outdoor seating or a glass of wine and a bite to eat at our bar. Bon Appétit!

Specialties include mesquite-grilled steaks and fish , house-made pastas, fresh salads

soups, a wide variety of desserts,

fresh baked bread along with artisan cocktails

Dine

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS AND TIDBITS IN THE BAY AREA EDITED BY MIMI TOWLE

N BRICK & BOTTLE

Caifornia Sourcing local and artisan ingredients, executive chef Scott Howard brings simple California cuisine to Corte Madera’s Brick & Bottle, opened in May 2010. With a cheerful vibe and a comfortable design, the restaurant features a large bar area, a beautiful outdoor patio and family-friendly dining. 55 Tamal Vista Blvd, 415.924.3366, brickandbottle.com

CORTE MADERA

IL FORNAIO Italian

Sausalito’s Larry Mindel hit a home run with this upscale Italian restaurant franchise. Besides the award-winning breads, pizzas and pastas, the menu offers a variety of salads and noncarb entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com

MARIN JOE’S Italian

Authentic Italian dishes have been served here for over 50 years. Pick from soup, salad, seafood, mesquite-

grilled or pasta options guaranteed to satisfy. Have a drink and hear local musicians at the well-known piano bar. 1585 Casa Buena Dr, 415.924.2081, marinjoesrestaurant.com

MAX’S CAFE American

The menu changes with the season but features year-round favorites like matzo ball soup and BLTs. 60 Madera Blvd, 415.924.6297, maxsworld.com

PACIFIC CATCH

Pan-Asian The wellpriced menu here offers a bounty of fresh-grilled Pacific Rim items — including generously portioned wasabi bowls fi lled with rice (white or brown), veggies and your choice of chicken, beef, or cooked or raw fi sh. 223 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.3474, pacificcatch.com

P.F. CHANG’S CHINA

BISTRO Chinese

The combination of attentive staff, lively atmosphere and consistently delicious meals makes for a reliably nice dining experience. Favorites like the lettuce wraps, Mongolian beef, and gluten-free choices keep the customers loyal. 301 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.413.9890, pfchangs.com

SEA THAI BISTRO

Asian SEA stands for Southeast Asian, and co-owner and executive chef Tony Ounpamornchai infuses his cooking with Thai and other Asian fl avors to create innovative dishes. The menu features sustainable and local ingredients when possible and includes an extensive wine list. 60 Corte Madera, 415.927.8333, seathaibistro.com

THE COUNTER

California/American Mostly known for allnatural Angus beef (humanely raised and handled, of course),

turkey, chicken or veggie burgers, the restaurant also offers options like a bowl (all the ingredients without the bun) or salads. Cheese choices range from an herb goat spread to gruyère to plain ol’ cheddar; toppings and sauces are equally varied. And if you want a martini with your burger, no problem; there’s a full bar. 201 Corte Madera Town Center 415.924.700, thecounterburger.com

FAIRFAX

FRADELIZIO’S Italian Home-style comfort food, fresh fi sh and good wine add up to an excellent place for a family night out. 35 Broadway Blvd, 415.459.1618, fradelizios.com

IRON SPRINGS PUB & BREWERY American Grab a beer and a grilled portobello mushroom sandwich — which one Chronicle reviewer calls “the best mushroom dish I have ever tasted” — at the former Ross Valley Brewing Company. 765-A Center Blvd, 415.485.1005, ironspringspub.com

GREENBRAE

BISTRO VIS À VIS

California This Bon Air Shopping Center eatery features the cooking of Michelin star–winning chef, Mike Fredsall. Sample menu items include seared sea scallops and celery root “ravioli” with Gala apple salad and celery root puree; or choose the Creekstone Farms

Brick & Bottle in Corte Madera

New York steak with portobello-shiitake bread pudding, broccoli rabe and natural jus and truffled risotto cakes. 282 Bon air Ctr, 415.925.4370, bistrovisavis.com

JASON’S California The restaurant’s Greenbrae location (it was formerly on Andersen Drive in San Rafael) fi lls the space that was formerly Giorgio’s. A crowd of regulars enjoys creative seafood dishes with Asian and Italian fl air. Try the ceviche, crab cakes or blackened salmon; seating options include a covered outdoor patio. 300 Drakes Landing Rd, 415.925.0808, jasonsrestaurant.com

WIPEOUT BAR & GRILL American This family-friendly hot spot has surfb oards hanging from the ceiling, fun-in-the-sun music, a full bar and large televisions displaying surfers riding waves. Menu includes fi sh tacos, salads and burgers.The only thing missing is the sand at this surf-style, upbeat eatery. Kids eat free on Tuesdays with a purchase of each adult entree. 302 Bon Air Ctr, 415.461.7400, wipeoutbarandgrill.com

LARKSPUR

EMPORIO RULLI

Italian Pastry chef Gary Rulli is renowned for his Northern Italian specialties and treats. The Larkspur location (there are three others) is a favored spot for lunch as well as coffee and a sweet. 464 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7478, rulli.com

FABRIZIO RISTORANTE Italian

Traditional Italian dishes with an extensive wine list from regions all over Italy; outside seating makes the experience even more special. 455 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.3332, fabriziorestaurant.com

LEFT BANK RESTAURANT French

Known for awardwinning French cuisine and its lively brasserie ambience, this corner spot has rated high with locals for well over a decade. Those with a petite appetite/budget can opt for happy hour (4–6:30 M–F) and enjoy appetizers, all priced under six dollars. 507 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.3331, leftbank.com

MAGNOLIA’S CAFE

Italian The former Cafe Lucano has reopened under new owner Tarik Boukhari. Along with Italian/Mediterraneaninspired fare, there’s free Wi-Fi. 574 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.1234

MARIN BREWING CO

American Grab a cold beer made right on site and pair it with fi sh and chips — fresh cod dipped in Mt. Tam pale ale batter, served with steak fries and homemade tartar sauce. 1809 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com

PICCO California This has been a popular place ever since opening in 2005 . Dishes like mini-burgers and seasonally driven menu items, along with risotto made every half hour, keep people coming back. The Picco Pizzeria and Wine Bar next door is

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cozy (not many seats) but already famous for its wood-fi red pizzas, great wine selection and soft-serve Straus Family Creamery ice cream. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com

RUSTIC BAKERY

California Organic mouthwatering pastries, breads and sandwiches are on the menu here, including Meyer lemon mascarpone danishes and a bacon, avocado and heirloom tomato sandwich with mesclun. 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556, rusticbakery.com

TAVERN AT LARK

CREEK American The next chapter in the 1888 Victorian Murphy House is being written by chef Aaron Wright and culinary director Adrian Hoff man. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7766, tavernatlarkcreek.com

YANKEE PIER American

This family-friendly casual clam shack is harbored in a quaint house built in 1924 as a private residence. Though known for beerbattered fi sh ‘n’ chips, clam chowder and tasty salads, Yankee Pier serves fresh seafood delivered daily from both coasts with special dishes by chef August Schuchman. 286 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7676, yankeepier.com

MILL VALLEY

BEERWORKS BREWERY AND BEER

CAFE American With a beverage menu of handcrafted beers made on site, imported and local microbrews and housemade kombucha and root beer, this Mill Valley brewery is set to keep the local palate pleased. Don’t miss

Dosa from Table Cafe

W TABLE CAFE Indian/

American This India-inspired café’s unique menu features entirely organic ingredients. Dishes include seasonal salads, incredible soups and fresh juices. The specialty of the house is dosa, filled with a variety of ingredients and served with savory homemade chutneys. 1167 Magnolia Ave, 415.461.6787, table-cafe.com

the small beer hall selection of pretzels, salumis and cheeses. 173 Throckmorton Ave, 415.336.3596, millvalleybeerworks.com

BUCKEYE

ROADHOUSE American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and chili-lime “brick” chicken are a few of the satisfying, comfort-food menu items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s. The warm dark-wood bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com

BUNGALOW 44

American Bungalow 44 offers a mean dose of homey carbo- and lipidladen dishes, such as the burger, fried chicken and truffle fries, as well as a few lighter items. The bar is a neighborhood favorite, known for tasty spirits and eye candy. 44 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com

CAFE DEL SOUL

California Beware of addiction. Once you stop in for the deliciously fresh Hummus Yummus wrap, you’ll have to return to sample the Chipotle Sunrise rice bowl; then it will be the Thai It Up wrap with peanut sauce washed down with ginger limeade that brings you back, and so on. Casual lunch spot, great for takeout. 247 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.1852, cafedelsoul.net

CHARLIE HONG KONG

Asian Finally Mill Valley has an Asian street food restaurant and best of all, dishes are $10 and less. Located downtown, Charlie Hong Kong offers something for every eater — vegan, wheat-free, vegetarian, carnivore. Menu items include chicken pho, vegan vegetable medley, vegan summer rolls, pad thai, chow mein and gado gado — all made with organic, locally produced veggies and proteins from vegetarian-fed, sustainably raised sources. 25 Miller Ave, Mill Valley, 415.888.8303, charliehongkong.com

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KID-FRIENDLY

Top Tot Spots

We asked our Facebook friends (via facebook.com/marinmag) where they liked to take their kids out to eat, and here’s what they recommend.

E “ Yankee Pier — There's a sand box for little guys. Pizza Antica — pizza, pasta and always other kids to hang out with. Waypoint Pizza — the candy store is an after-dinner treat.”

~ Judy, Tiburon

E “With the open pool, hot tub, and lawn, Rickey's in Novato has to be up there. Plus it has a really cool name and a good bar.”

~Rick, Bell Marin Keys

E “ The Counter!”

~ Emily, Tiburon

E “Wednesday family night at Cucina in San Anselmo — $10 for adults (salad and pasta), $5 for the kids menu. Can't be beat!”

~ Laura, Ross

E “Just had a delish and healthy lunch with the kids at Pacifi c Catch today. Kids meals $5–7 plus edamame and goldfi sh for all.”

~ Amy, San Rafael

E “ Brick & Bottle in Corte Madera. The kids menu offers skirt steak, petrale sole and great burgers for $5–7. There are four TVs to watch the Giants, and Book Passage next door to check in with the 'summer reading' list.”

~ Susan, Strawberry

E “ La Toscana in Terra Linda … and the above mentioned are great. Of course, my husband and I are spoiled rotten, as our daughter is a mellow kid. We've got a soft spot for La Toscana, though.”

~ Gabriela, San Rafael

DISH California Sit inside or out at this hip, casual eatery on Miller Avenue. Dish was created as an all-day gathering place offering healthy, organic food and drinks. Start the morning with a cappuccino, stop in after midday yoga for a salad or sandwich, or end the day with a glass of wine and locally sourced dinner on the outdoor patio. Breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner. 507 Miller, 415.388.3013, dishmillvalley.com

FRANTOIO RISTORANTE

ITALIANO Italian

E “Ambrosia in Larkspur — a hidden spot for Italian food, great pizza sauce, large wine selection … kid-friendly.”

~ Gail, Corte Madera

E “ Ghiringhelli's in Novato has family fun nights, games, pizza and music for the kids … and its cheap! And in the summer, lunch for kids is free.”

~ JB, Novato

E “ Farley Bar @CavalloPoint — on the porch. (Even dogs are welcome on the lawn.) Amazing kid plates even for picky eaters.”

~ Stephanie, Tiburon

E “ Pacifi c Catch — my daughter loves their California rolls; I love their cocktails!”

~ Kerri, Mill Valley

E “In San Rafael: Sushi to Dai For, Crepevine , Thai Smile , Napoli , Seafood Peddler, Roadhouse BBQ at Northgate, LoCoco’s and Weezy's in Terra Linda. Yankee Pier is another favorite. Also Pacifi c Catch and even Il Fornaio — oh, and Dish — in Mill Valley.”

~ Peggy, San Rafael

E “I like The Counter, too. Ironically, my daughter doesn't. She likes Sonora Market and Taqueria (strategically located next door to Three Twins and the local kids' karate studio). I like it, too. She also likes Hacienda on the frontage road in San Rafael and Maison de la Reine for soup.”

~ Erika, Lucas Valley

EL PASEO HOUSE OF CHOPS American The award-winning dining destination has been purchased and revamped (with House of Chops added to its name) by Mill Valley musician/restaurateur Sammy Hagar and celebrity chef Tyler Florence. Defi nitely making a splash in the local restaurant scene; word is both service and prices are over the top. 17 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0741, elpaseomillvalley.com

Known for its in-house olive press, superior olive oil and excellent Italian cuisine, this spot is a great location for an intimate dinner, large groups and anything in between. Happy hour starts at 4:30 in the sizable, comfortable bar area, where you can snack on antipasti or order your whole meal. Owned by Roberto Zecca and Chef Duilio Valenti, both from Milano; the kitchen uses local and organic ingredients — it’s the Italian way. For special occasions and private parties, reserve the olive-press room. 152 Shoreline Hwy, 415.289.5777, frantoio.com

INDIA PALACE Indian

Known as “that great restaurant in the Travelodge,” India Palace is a favorite among the takeout crowd; however,

eating on site is a treat too. 707 Redwood Hwy, 415.388.3350, ndiapalacemillvalley.com

GIRA POLLI Italian Not in the mood to cook?

Pick up a wood-fi red rotisserie chicken or family dinner from this hot spot, or stick around for the specialty pasta and a glass of wine. 590 East Blithedale Ave, 415.383.6040, gira-polli.com

GRILLY’S RESTAURANT

Mexican Both the Mill Valley and Fairfax locations offer “healthy Mexican food” like grilled chicken, steak or veggie-filled burritos with gluten-free and vegetarian options. 493 Miller Ave, 415.381.3278, grillys.com

HARMONY Chinese Dishes here are an infusion of many flavors. The barbecue pork bun is fi lled with housemade roasted meat in a savory sauce; fresh mussels are accented with red chili and

Dipsea Cafe in Mill Valley

Thai basil. Pair your pick with wine, beer or tea. Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmonyrestaurant group.com

JOE’S TACO LOUNGE

Mexican A longtime local favorite, Joe’s serves up regular fare such as tasty fi sh tacos, burritos and enchiladas as well as more unusual items like Mexican pizza, tofu salad and crab tostadas. Colorful interior and (usually) quick service make this a fun, easy stop. And if there are too many unsupervised kids for a peaceful meal, takeout is easy too. Alone? Grab a magazine and a seat at the counter and enjoy the action. 382 Miller, 415.383.8164

LA BOULANGE

BAKERY French Take your pastries and coffee in a bowl and lounge on the patio for a relaxing morning as you’re practically transported to Paris at this adorable bakery. The staff is professional and

friendly. Be sure to try the outstanding breads; they’ll put your standard sandwich bread to shame. 800 Redwood Hwy, 415.381.1260, baybread.com

LA GINESTRA Italian A favorite family spot for over 30 years; getting a table or booth can take a while. While this oldschool Italian eatery is known for traditional pastas, veal dishes, pizzas and dry martinis, the familiar wait staff is also part of the attraction. 127 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0224

PIAZZA D’ANGELO

Italian It’s always a party at this longstanding hot spot. A great place to meet up with friends for a fresh plate of pasta, zuppa di pesce or pollo novello, or make some new friends at the bar. 22 Miller Ave, 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com

11 B ERNARD S TREET M ILL V ALLEY

415.383.0462

WWW KATHLEENDUGHI COM

W DIPSEA CAFE Comfort

One word: carbs. This longtime breakfast spot has been serving up tasty pancakes and egg dishes with homemade biscuits since 1986. Try a biscuit with a poached egg, pancakes with sausage — or just plain butter. Lunch specialties include BLTs and tuna melts and generous Cobb salads. Now serving dinner. 200 Shoreline Hwy, 415.381.0298, dipseacafe.com

PIATTI RISTORANTE

AND BAR Italian The staff prides itself on capturing the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria. Try for a table at the window for a truly exceptional view right on the water. Take a peek at the impressive collection of Italian wines to go with your rustic seasonal Italian meal. 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com

PIZZA ANTICA Italian

Although a recent Yelp reviewer praised it for having “by far the best thin-crust pizzas in Marin,” this Strawberry shopping center spot also offers antipasti and hearty salads. Wine is served by the glass, half carafe or bottle. 800 Redwood Hwy, 415.383.0600, pizzaantica.com

SMALL SHED

FLATBREADS California

Slow food chef Ged Robertson uses only local, mostly organic ingredients. Crowd favorites include the Mt. Tamal-pie, a delicious fresh salad atop a fl atbread. 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, smallshed.com

THEP LELA Thai This jewel is tucked away in the back of Strawberry Village. Diners come for the tasty kee mao noodles, pad thai, fresh rolls and extensive bar menu. It’s also a great place for lunch. 615 Strawberry Village, 415.383.3444, theplela.com

TSUKIJI SUSHI

Japanese Named for the largest fi sh market in world, Tsukiji is owned by Roy and Chanel Liu. The couple earned their sushi stripes operating Morpho in San Francisco and Akira in San Rafael. Helping them behind the sushi bar is former Sushi Ran head sushi chef Haruo Komatsu. 24 Sunnyside Ave., 415.383.1382, tsukijisushimv.com

NOVATO

BOCA STEAK & SEAFOOD South American Bring a date or celebrate a special event at this classic steak house, which celebrates chef George Morrone’s (Aqua, Fifth Floor) Argentinean heritage. The grass-

E AUBERGE DU SOLEIL Amandes au Chocolat Executive pastry chef Paul Lemieux roasts small batches of organic California whole almonds then dips them in a generous layer of dark chocolate finished by a very fine powdered coating. Available at aubergedusoleil.com, $17.50.

and grain-fed steaks are cooked over oak and almond wood. 340 Ignacio Blvd, 415.883.0901, bocasteak.com

CACTI GRILL American

Located in a former bell-tower church, the family-friendly restaurant now boasts a covered patio; the menu includes a 21-day dry-aged steak and fi let mignon enchiladas. 1200 Grant Ave, 415.898.2234, cactigrill.com

EXTREME PIZZA

American Pizza by the slice or pie. Come up with your own creation or choose one of the restaurant’s favorites like the Mr. Pestato Head: homemade pesto sauce, potatoes, red onions, feta, fresh basil and mozzarella. 104 Vintage Way, 415.898.6575, extremepizza.com

FINNEGAN’S MARIN

American This pubstyle restaurant features tasty appetizers, grilled flatbread pizzas and entrées such as New York steak, garlic herb chicken and a braised beef and pork ragu that will really stick to your ribs. Wine, beer and cocktails are available. 877 Grant Ave, 415.899.1516, finnegansmarin.com

GOLDEN EGG OMELET HOUSE American

Previously called the Old Town Bistro, this Novato favorite is back by popular demand with its original name and menu. Open for breakfast and lunch, the Golden Egg Omelet House offers an assortment of organic and locally grown foods and 101 different types of omelets. 807 Grant Ave, 415.897.7707, goldeneggnovato.com

GRAZIE Italian Locals love this family-owned and -run Grant Avenue restaurant for delicious

Peter Uzelac, MD

PHOTO BY TRINA TURK

Amandes au chocolat, Auberge du Soleil

paninis, salads and the unbeatable homemade cookies. Enjoy good weather on the outside patio or people-watch in this always-bustling restaurant. 823 Grant Ave, Ste E, 415.878.0202

HILLTOP 1892

California Situated in a historic estate in Novato, Hilltop 1892 offers traditional favorites with a California fl air. Open from breakfast through dinner, as well as Sunday brunch. 850 Lamont Ave, 415.893.1892, hilltop1892.com

PORTELLI ROSSI

Italian This casual cafe offers huge portions (most priced under $20), a garden patio and a family-friendly environment. Stop in on Saturday and Sunday nights for the live jazz band on the patio. The early-bird special (seating before 6 p.m.) includes a threecourse meal for only $12 every night. Closed Mondays. 868 Grant Ave, 415.892.6100, portellirossi.com

SONOMA LATINA

GRILL Mexican As if Novato didn’t already have some great taquerias, the owners of La Tortilla Factory in Sonoma have brought us Sonoma Latina Grill. The menu includes standbys like tacos, burritos and enchiladas made with fresh, local and organic ingredients, plus a list of favorites from the Sonoma location. In keeping with the fresh/ non-processed theme, the tortillas are made

by hand with natural and organic whole grains. 5800 Nave Dr, Ste D, 415.883.2662, sonomalatinagrill.com

TOAST American

Sister to the popular Mill Valley location, Toast Novato features outdoor dining and architecture by Stanley Saitowitz and still has the great dishes by executive chef Michael Garcia that have made the southern Marin spot a not-to-be-missed destination. 5800 Nave Dr, 415.382.1144, toastnovato.com

TUSCANY COUNTRY

GRILL Italian The chicken pesto panini and eggplant parmigiano are among many of the favorites at this charming and spacious Italian eatery. The menu is eclectic, prices are fair and the portions are enormous, so be prepared for leftovers throughout the week. There’s a bit of a rush at lunch, so make reservations or arrive early. 1516 Grant Ave, 415.998.2800

WILDFOX American

Perched on the hillside off Highway 101, this rustic mesquite grill features smooth cosmos and other beverages and a menu full of comfort dishes like seafood risotto with bits of butternut squash. In the mood for a cigar? The restaurant has a lengthy list of options. 225 Alameda del Prado, 415.883.9125, wildfoxrestaurant.com

SAN ANSELMO

BUBBA’S DINER

American Kids will be begging for seconds and so will adults at this hopping local hangout. Burgers,

S INSALATA'S Mediterranean Award-winning chef Heidi Insalata Krahling offers Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes prepared with local organic produce and artisan meats. 120 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.457.7700, insalatas.com

shakes and fries, and homemade apple pie. 566 San Anselmo Ave, 415.459.6862, bubbas-diner.net

COMFORTS CAFE

This cozy spot features local ingredients and serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. Be sure to try the Philly cheesesteak and Chinese chicken salad, both classics. 335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com

CUCINA RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR Relax with a glass of wine and have a slice from the to-die-for thin pizzas, topped with items like truffle oil and fontina cheese. 510 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.2942, cucinarestaurantand winebar.com

DREAM FARM

California As the website claims, a taste of rural Marin in downtown San Anselmo, showcasing the bounty

of our area’s awardwinning farms, dairies, and fi sheries. Best yet is the price point: dishes range from under $6 to nothing over $20. 198 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.453.9898, dreamfarmmarin.com

L’APPART RESTO

French It’s the second (and highly anticipated) Marin restaurant for the team behind Le Garage Bistro. In the former AVA spot, owners Bruno Denis and Olivier Souvestre are offering a menu most Francophiles would be proud of, complete with items like smoked herring, bone marrow and cassoulet de legumes. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.256.9884, lappartresto.com

LOCOCO’S PIZZERIA Italian Worth driving to from all over Marin, and it’s an easy place to meet up with friends. The pizza crust is divine, as is the house salad. Good spot to come with the entire family. Closed Mondays. 638 San Anselmo Ave, 415.453.1238, lococossananselmo.com

ORCHID THAI Thai

Owners Peggy and Tom Thongnopneua create an inviting atmosphere with their warm smiles and helpful menu suggestions. The light and healthy fare here has won “Best of Marin” awards many times over. 726 San Anselmo Ave, 415.457.9470, orchidthairestaurant.com

TACO JANE’S Mexican Named after the owner’s mother, this casual and colorful place right off San Anselmo Avenue welcomes the whole family. Do not miss out on Jane’s handmade agave margarita or

Fatoush Salad, Insalata's

grilled plantains with crema. 21 Tamalpais Ave, 415.454.6562, tacojanes.com

SAN RAFAEL

AMICI’S EAST COAST

PIZZERIA California The array of pizzas includes gluten-free crust options and the new Siciliano, an enticing mix of mozzarella, slowroasted garlic, sausage, broccoli and crushed red pepper flakes, sans tomato sauce. 1242 Fourth St, 415.455.9777, amicis.com

BOMBAY GARDEN

Indian Here you’ll fi nd a large menu showcasing richly fl avored Northern and Southern Indian cuisine. There are often Bollywood movies or videos showing on a flat-screen TV to add a little entertainment to the meal. 909 Fourth St, 415.459.9555, dinebombaygarden.com

CAFE GRATITUDE Raw

The waiters might push the affi rmations theme a bit too much, but the tasty (and healthy) food is worth it. Besides the knowledge you’re supporting local farmers and sustainable agriculture, the raw food and vegan samosas are hard to resist. Best to bring a group and sample lots of items on the menu. 2200 Fourth St, 415.824.4652, cafegratitude.com

CHALET BASQUE

French This familystyle restaurant serves dishes inspired by the Basque regions of France and Spain, including frog legs in a garlic butter and lemon sauce, a veal calf liver sauté and rack of

lamb. On a warm Marin night enjoy alfresco dining on the outdoor patio. 405 North San Pedro Rd, 415.479.1070, chaletbasquemarin.com

CREPEVINE American

Bistro/Creperie Casual dining, outdoor seating and a diverse menu of savory crepes (such as the Italian crepe fi lled with roasted peppers, eggplant, onions, artichoke hearts, tomato sauce and mozzarella). Sweet and savory crepes are available all day long, as is breakfast. 908 Fourth St, 415.257.8822, crepe vine.com

IL DAVIDE Italian A large selection of both Italian and California wines by the glass along with the dolci menu’s tiramisu have kept locals coming back for years. 901 A St, 415.454.8080, ildavide.net

LOTUS RESTAURANT

Indian Lotus Restaurant has earned "Hall of Fame" kudos from Pacific Sun readers for nearly a decade. Family owned and operated, it serves up North Indian cuisine with vegan and vegetarian options in a casual pink-tablecloth setting. 704 Fourth St, 415.456.5808, lotusrestaurant.com

MCINNIS PARK GOLF CLUB RESTAURANT

American Chef Tim Harmon has created an eclectic menu for brunch, lunch and dinner. Outdoor seating is popular, as well as the full bar with a selection of premium Scotches, small-batch bourbons and more than 50 wines from California’s finest vineyards. McInnis Park, 415.491.5990, mcinnis parkgolfcenter.com

BLUESTONE MAIN

Home Cooking

Chef Duilio Valenti of Frantoio in Mill Valley was inspired by his daughter to create this recipe because she loves squash blossoms. Originally from Milano, Valenti has been in California for nearly 30 years and at Frantoio for 15. Everything in this recipe can be prepared ahead of time, from plating the meat to making the vinaigrette. Finish by cooking the blossoms at serving time. MIMI TOWLE

Carpaccio With Radicchio and Goat Cheese–Filled Squash Blossoms

SERVES 4

Ingredients

8 ounces of grass-fed beef (eye of the round or other very lean cut, very thinly sliced, see prep note below; Valenti uses BN Ranch’s grass-fed beef, from Bolinas)

1 head of radicchio

2 small lemons

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

L cup Frantoio Extra Virgin Olive Oil

4 ounces fresh goat cheese

8 squash blossoms

1 egg

L cup regular olive oil for frying

1 Place four equal portions of beef on four dinner plates; refrigerate.

2 Cut radicchio in half and with the tip of a knife, remove the core. With your hands, break radicchio into 1-inch pieces and put in a large bowl. Set aside. 3 In another large bowl, squeeze the lemons and add a pinch of sea salt and fresh pepper; slowly whisk in the Frantoio olive oil to emulsify the dressing. Set aside.

4 Divide the goat cheese into eight equal parts. Open the blossoms and gently spoon the goat cheese inside each one. Pinch the top of each blossom gently to close it. Refrigerate blossoms for a few minutes.

5 Meanwhile, toss the radicchio with half of the lemon–olive oil dressing and place in the center of the plates with the beef slices. 6 Beat the egg with a pinch of salt until a little frothy. Place a nonstick sauté pan on medium heat, adding the regular olive oil. Dip each blossom into the egg wash and fry it quickly on each side until golden brown. Set on a paper towel to absorb any excess oil, then place two blossoms on each plate.

7 Sprinkle a little sea salt on the beef then spoon the remaining dressing onto each plate and serve at once.

Note: Have your butcher slice about 8 ounces of “eye of the round” beef very thin. You can also slice it yourself and then pound the slices with a meat mallet between two sheets of plastic wrap to make them really thin.

MIKADO SUSHI

Japanese This beautifully decorated, family-owned sushi spot has been open for about two years in its Terra Linda location. The menu includes both raw and cooked dishes and 20 different choices of sake. Dine in or stay home and get it delivered. 248 Northgate One, 415.446.5543

MIKEY’S Cuban New chef Freddy Caamel has added a Cuban menu to the mix in this casual restaurant. Try “Mikey’s special” for breakfast, nachos for lunch, or the ropa vieja from the new Cuban menu for dinner. 783 Anderson Dr, 415.454.6453, eatatmikeys.com

NAPOLI Italian This is a family-owned and -run restaurant with a unique craft beer program; they keep the prices down and the libations flowing. About 45 wines and 25 beers (including some from Marin) are on the list at any given time. The pizza and pasta on the extensive dinner menu are a merge of East Coast Italian with Marin and Bay Area accents. 869 4th St, 415.459.3315

PANAMA HOTEL RESTAURANT

American The tropical garden is a prime dining spot for people-watching and taking advantage of San Rafael’s warm weather. The Sunday brunch menu is a hit with kids, who can’t get enough of the Panama Waffle served with bananas, warm chocolate sauce and whipped cream. 4 Bayview St, 415.457.3993, panamahotel.com

SABOR OF SPAIN

Spanish Opened in 2003, this tapas and wine bar is a great place for a romantic date or a big party (catering available). Old-world values and a healthy olive oil–based Mediterranean diet have preserved the authentic flavors found throughout Spain’s history. Enjoy wine tasting, eating and shopping for fi ne wines all under one roof. 1301 Fourth St, 415.457.8466, saborofspain.com

SAN RAFAEL JOE’S

Italian Guido and Theresa Farina are now running this Marin institution, which has been famous for sophisticated yet casual Italian fare since 1947. Great for large parties, the dining room holds 240. The Pacific red snapper meunière and roast sirloin of beef are standouts. 931 Fourth St, 415.456.2425, srjoes.com

SEAFOOD PEDDLER

Seafood A great place to seek out fresh seafood in a warm and inviting environment. Dine indoors or out, or better yet, rent the banquet room for a party. 100 Yacht Club Dr, 415.460.6669, seafoodpeddler.com

SOL FOOD Puerto

Rican With south-ofthe-border treats like yellow rice, beans, and plantains and authentic Puerto Rican specialties, this tiny one-room eatery on Fourth Street just off Highway 101 can be hard to get into, but it’s worth the wait. 732 Fourth St, and 901 Lincoln Ave, 415.451.4765, solfoodrestaurant.com

Lifestyle in Balance

Out & About / DINE

SAUSALITO

ANGELINO

RESTAURANT Italian

Father-and-son

chefs Pasquale and Alfredo Ancona offer handmade pastas and seasonal antipasti at this authentic Italian restaurant, which has been featuring cuisine of the Campania region for the past 24 years. 621 Bridgeway, 415.331.5225, angelinorestaurant.com

CAFFÉ DIVINO Tuscan

Locals come for the tasty pastas and salads as well as coffee drinks, served in a funky one-room setting. Free delivery in Sausalito. 37 Caledonia St, 415.331.9355, caffedivinosausalito.com

CIBO Cafe Husbandand-wife team Alfredo and Tera Ancona offer a menu of tarts, croissants, cookies, paninis and soups. Every dish is made from scratch with local and seasonal products. And now Marinites no longer have to drive over the bridge to get famous Blue Bottle coffee. Or opt for homemade organic dark hot chocolate. Located in the historic brick building at 1201 Bridgeway. 415.331.CIBO, cibosausalito.com

HORIZONS Seafood/

American There isn’t a better place for waterfront deck dining with stunning views of Angel Island, Alcatraz and the San Francisco skyline. Horizons is a favorite with locals and visitors. Enjoy lunch, dinner and brunch daily, featuring fresh seafood, salads, sandwiches, pasta and steak. A full bar offers draft beers,

specialty cocktails, and an extensive wine selection. Valet parking and docking facilities available. 558 Bridgeway, 415.331.3232, horizons sausalito.com

KITTI’S PLACE Thai/

California Known for the tasty Chinese chicken salad and spring rolls, owner Kitti Suthipipiat was the cook at Comforts in San Anselmo for many years. Try weekly specials like the Thai Toast: crispy sliced baguette topped with shrimp and chicken. 3001 Bridgeway #D, 415.331.0390, kittisplace.com

LE GARAGE French

Escape the touristy Sausalito spots and grab brunch right on the water at this cherished site. The atmosphere is animated with light French music playing in the background (think Amélie). The Kobe Burger, though not as Parisian as the other menu items, is to die for. And the much-adored croque-monsieur is under $10. Opt for indoor or outdoor seating. 85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625, legaragebistro sausalito.com

MURRAY CIRCLE

American Enjoy the sun on the deck of this Cavallo Point restaurant. Locals say they come back for the fresh seasonal specials like wild sturgeon and Wolfe Ranch quail. 601 Murray Circle, 415.339.4750, cavallopoint.com

OSTERIA DIVINO

Italian Whether you’re stopping by for your morning coffee and

pastry or looking for a charming place to dine, Osteria DiVino offers delicious rustic Florentine eating. It’s a great party place (with its separate room) for families and singles alike. Live jazz piano on the baby grand Friday nights. 37 Caledonia St, 415.331.9355, divinosausalito.com

SAYLOR’S

RESTAURANT AND BAR California/ Mexican Marin’s fi rst tequila bar offers over 100 tequila options. Nightly meal specials include chicken potpie, roasted salmon, baby back ribs, and traditional meatloaf. If you’re up for wilder entertainment there are frequent events like margarita night and fl ight night tequilatasting parties. The private dining room is perfect for large parties. 2009 Bridgeway, 415.332.1512, saylors restaurantandbar.com

SUSHI RAN Japanese

Fresh, innovative small plates are just big enough to share, the traditional sushi is melt-in-your-mouth good, and the wine, cocktail and sake lists keep the pickiest barfly well satisfied. Even the prices don’t deter the herd of sushi enthusiasts who line up nightly to partake; reservations are required in the main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com

TIBURON

CAPRICE California

Book the private party room for large groups or just relax in what one Yelp reviewer called “the perfect romantic dinner spot.” Midweek

take advantage of the restaurant’s wellpriced three-course dinners for less than $25. 2000 Paradise Dr, 415.435.3400, thecaprice.com

GUAYMAS Mexican

The touch-it-you’reso-close city views and outdoor seating make it a great place to bring visitors on a warm summer night. Happy hour is 5 to 7 p.m. Monday through Thursday. Menu includes specialties like puerco macho — pork loin chop with grilled plantain, topped with an ancho chile, garlic and onion sauce. 5 Main St, 415.435.6300, guaymasrestaurant.com

MILANO Italian

Located in the Cove Shopping Center, this family-owned neighborhood spot is known for its pasta and friendly service. A good place to take the kids — or catering option for your next birthday party. 1 Blackfield Dr, 415.388.9100

SALT & PEPPER

American Tiburon’s

New Morning Cafe

owner Paul Monterroso opened this bright, one-room dining place in the Main Street hot spot formerly known as Rooney’s. Hits from the old menu — crab cakes with jalapeño dipping sauce, rib-eye steak and beet salad — remain popular. Open for lunch and dinner. 38 Main St, 415.435.3594

SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE

American Everyone knows Sam’s deck is the prime spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole, but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com

TIBURON GRILL

California The atmosphere here is truly enchanting, with two outdoor patios, two indoor fi replaces, and candlelit tables at dinner. No item is more than $20, including the steak, with entrées falling in the $14 to

$18 range. Happy hour is Monday through Friday from 4 to 7 p.m. 1651 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.5996, thelodge attiburon.com

WEST MARIN

DRAKES BEACH CAFE

American If you’re OK with the long drive, you can’t beat the view and the fresh local ingredients used to make the burgers, salads and soups at this casual spot (Inverness). 1 Drakes Beach Rd, 415.669.1297, drakesbeachcafe.com

OLEMA INN California

One of the most charming settings around, this inn and restaurant is a great destination lunch spot for a Sunday drive, or dinner every night. The menu includes imaginative combinations using regional and organic greens while the bar features a full wine list (Olema). 10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.663.9559, theolemainn.com

Poggio, Sausalito

W POGGIO Italian A great place to celebrate a special occasion or simply enjoy a night out. Executive chef Peter McNee cooks up delicious Northern Italian cuisine using fresh and local ingredients, including produce from the nearby Poggio chef garden. 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com

OSTERIO STELLINA

California Whether it’s to cap off a day of hiking or celebrate a romantic anniversary, Osterio Stellina suits any occasion. The menu is Italian-inspired using organic, local ingredients. If you’re looking for something unusual try the goat shoulder, a favorite of locals and tourists alike. (Point Reyes). 11285 Hwy 1, 415.663.9988, osteria stellina.com

PARKSIDE CAFE

American Most people know it as the ultimate breakfast spot but lunch and dinners are great here too. (Stinson). 43 Arenal Ave, 415.868.1272, parksidecafe.com

SAND DOLLAR

American Originally built from three barges in Tiburon in 1921, the Sand Dollar Restaurant was floated to Stinson that same year and it’s still there today. Enjoy live music along with local barbecued oysters and New England

clam chowder. Sunny deck is great in the afternoon (Stinson). 3458 Shoreline Hwy, 415.868.0434, stinson beachrestaurant.com

STATION HOUSE CAFE

American Fresh local homegrown foods, served when available, are showcased on the chef’s menu. Stop in on weekends for the live music and enticing wine and beer lists. 11180 State Route One, 415.663.1515, station housecafe.com

SURFERS GRILL

American The view doesn’t get better than this — nor does the surf salad. Built right out on Stinson Beach, this casual lunch spot offers up tasty fresh organic salads alongside corn dogs, burgers and fries. Stinson Beach Park, Hwy 1, 415.868.1777, surfersgrill.com

For even more local listings, vistit us online at marin magazine.com/dine.

MARIN ADVERTISERS SPEAK UP

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Dan Barrett Pacific Precious Metals, Mill Valley

Pacific Precious Metals is a dealer in gold, silver, platinum, and palladium bullion coins and bars that both buys and sells to anyone from the public and also purchases old gold and silver jewelry or silverware. “We use a technology called X-ray fluorescence (XRF), which adds a huge layer of transparency to our process with the public,” says owner Dan Barrett. “Basically, the XRF machine shoots a weak X-ray beam into the object and then the software analyzes the resulting spectrum and provides a readout of all the different metals in the object,” he says. “It’s a fantastic way to help consumers feel comfortable that they are getting paid for what they are bringing in.” In addition, the company does specific gravity and ultrasonic testing on bullion coins and bars.

Richard Seltzer

Richard Seltzer Designs, San Anselmo

Richard Selzter Designs creates site-sensitive, painterly spaces for people to live in. “We run a small practice, which allows us to control all phases of the design/build process even down to the lighting and custom furniture,” says owner Richard Seltzer.

What (or who) were you going to be when you grew up?

I started as a furniture designer in Marin and then went on to architecture school. Now I’ve combined my love for the design process with building custom homes.

What makes your work worthwhile?

My design sensibilities give the work a visceral sense of place that transcends the aesthetic of any particular style or project. Hearing about clients’ daily experiences with their spaces long after they have moved in makes my work worthwhile.

Briefly describe your business philosophy.

Our business philosophy is to provide individuals with a transparent process to either buy or sell any type of precious metal and to have clear pricing both on our website and in person, as well as to involve the customer in the entire buying or selling process.

What is your competitive edge?

Our commitment to a transparent process along with the technology we use in assessing both bullion coins and bars or old jewelry and silverware.

What

makes you excel at what you do?

I think it’s all the prior experience I obtained when I worked as an investment manager on Wall Street along with my complete belief in the merits of investments in precious metals. I also think that being very open and honest with customers in any transaction helps in giving them comfort that they are dealing with an honest company.

What’s the funniest thing that’s happened in your business ?

A gentleman came in recently with a few silver bars. He put on white gloves to take them out of their cases, which in itself was odd considering they are neither delicate nor affected by human handling. Our technology identied that two of his bars were counterfeit. The man, who said he purchased them in the 1970s, did not seem upset that his bars were fake. It made me wonder whether he knew all along.

DAN BARRETT, PACIFIC PRECIOUS METALS, 420 MILLER AVE., STE 102, MILL VALLEY, CA 94941, 415.383.7411, PACIFICPRECIOUSMETALS.COM

What makes you excel at what you do?

I love what I do. I take tremendous pleasure in taking a project from dialogue to reality with my clients and making a meaningful difference in their lives.

RICHARD SELTZER DESIGNS, 1314 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE BLVD., SAN ANSELMO, CA 94960, 415.944.0992, RICHARDSELTZER.COM

Angels by the Bay

Corinthian Yacht Club, Tiburon Friday, October 7, 2011

Wine Tasting ~ Silent & Live Auction Luncheon ~ Blue Angels Fly-Over

Empowering older adults and people with disabilities in Marin County to live independently

For more information, contact Kathleen Woodcock

710 Fourth Street ~ San Rafael, CA 94901 415.459.6245 ~ www.MarinCIL.org

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Marin Home

FROM TOURS AND MAKEOVERS TO DECORATIVE DETAILS AND REALTOR INSIGHTS

LIVING IT UP ON THE LAGOON

A family of six relocates from Tiburon’s east side into a home where every day feels like a vacation.

BY

PJ BREMIER • PHOTOS BY TIM PORTER

John Christensen, owner of a marketing company, and Agne Correll, owner of Room, a fi ne art gallery in San Rafael, were very specific about what they wanted for their newly blended family. He wanted a big house with fabulous water views, and — because of their hectic work schedules — she wanted a house that was move-in ready. Both wanted something their four children could enjoy. What they ended up with fit both their bills perfectly.

“Our backyard is on the Belvedere Lagoon, which our kids enjoy the most — they swim, boat and pedal-boat almost every day,” says Correll. “Right across the street we have this

It’s like our getaway beach house that we’re lucky to call home.

gorgeous path we use to bike, run or walk Bowie, our Boston terrier. It’s like our getaway beach house that we’re lucky to call home.”

The deal might not have happened, though. “John really didn’t want to live on the lagoon, but none of the properties we saw were ringing true for Agne,” recalls realtor David Schwartz. “I finally asked what she really wanted in a home, and she said it would be something smaller with a western exposure so it would be sunny when she came home from work. She described the house I had in mind for them, but it was on the lagoon. They looked at it, and it was love at first sight.” m

THE DETAILS

WHERE THEY PURCHASED Belvedere

WHAT THEY BOUGHT A recently renovated four-bedroom home on the lagoon

LISTING & SELLING AGENT David Schwartz, associate broker, Coldwell Banker, Belvedere-Tiburon

STATS Average cost per square foot for homes in neighborhood: $1,100–$1,200

John Christensen and Agne Correll are happy with their home on the Belvedere lagoon.

We’ve Got Mail

Neither rain, sleet nor snow can hide these creative mailboxes in the county. Is yours pictured? Email a photo of yourself standing by your mailbox to letters@marin magazine.com with your phone number and address, and you’ll be entered in a drawing to win a $50 gift certificate for Horizons in Sausalito.

EXQUISITE BELVEDERE HOME

Beautifully appointed, 4 bedrooms, 3.5 baths, approx. 3600 sq. ft. Wonderful views of Belvedere Cove, Tiburon and the Bay. Completely remodeled. 138 Madrona Avenue

List Price $2,395,000

ROSS CLASSIC

This brown shingle 4 bedroom, 2.5 bath home with enormous curb appeal features level lot, sitting porch, and deck areas. 123 Bolinas Avenue

List Price $1,636,000

COMING SOON

16 Crest Road, Belvedere $4,995,000

7 Bellevue on Corinthian Island $2,295,000

With more than 30 years of real estate experience, Mark provides his clients with in-depth market analyses and exceptional marketing and results. To view and receive his Residential Real Estate Reports, go to marinpremierhomes.com.

MID-CENTURY HOME BELVEDERE ISLAND

Situated on two lots (8/10 acre) near the top of Belvedere Island on a private road among more than 30 mature oaks on the sheltered side overlooking S.F. Bay, designed by the distinguished award winning architect Joseph Esherick. Known for its well balanced light which changes throughout the day as a result of its many tall windows and seven skylights which capture its many views and contribute to ever-changing shadow patterns. Five view decks enhance numerous living spaces including 4+ bedrooms, 3 baths, a highend professional kitchen, and an office.

11Crest.com

$3,895,000 $3,395,000

STUNNING VIEWS

This spectacular property offers nearly one-half acre located on one of Belvedere’s best west side locations. World class location, views and privacy. 16 Eucalyptus

List Price $2,495,000

Japanese Style

159± acres, Pegasus Ranch/Fairview Vineyard, 51± ac planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, & Syrah, 4 bd,

Sited on the western-most promontory of Belvedere Island with the Bay directly below & unobstructed views from Mt. Tam through Sausalito, the Golden Gate Bridge & the entire San Francisco skyline, this property truly exemplifies the “belvedere.” Warren Callister designed, west-side waterfront with 5 bedrooms, 4 full & 3 half-baths in the main residence & separate 1-bedroom, 1-bath guest apartment. Large formal living & dining rooms with French door access to view-side terraces & 3 level lawn areas, intimate library with fireplace, & top-floor master suite with his & her baths and dressing areas & private view-side terrace. Approx. 9,500 sq. ft. of covered space, including the main residence, garage & guest quarters, & six bedrooms, five full & three half-baths, Belvedere prominence & world-coveted views… $21,950,000

Stunning San Francisco Bay-front Italianate, designed by Andrew Skurman, with pier, floating dock & lift, with totally unobstructed views from Mt. Tam to the west, through Sausalito, Golden Gate Bridge & the entire San Francisco skyline to the south. Highest quality construction & unsurpassed detail. Large, formal living & dining rooms, gourmet-equipped kitchen & sunny water-side terrace with fireplace & BBQ adjacent the kitchen/family room. Wonderful master suite with lavish bath & adjacent water-side terrace & 3 stunning en-suite guest rooms, all with captivating bay views. Separate staff quarters & office, gated security with video surveillance, gym room with fridge & half bath. Four en-suite bedrooms and three half baths… $18,250,000

Blazing sunrises, golden sunsets & perfect moonrises reflecting on the Bay waters, the calls of the seals and sea gulls, and the ever-changing living-mural of sea life for your living room, this stunning contemporary, designed by award-winning architects generations apart, embodies everything you imagined about waterfront living. 1.2 acres, nearly 8,000 sf, over 200 water-level frontage feet. The main residence comprises five large bedrooms and five and one-half baths, & the separate guest house offers an additional two bedrooms & one bath. Once this lifetime… $22,250,000

Casual elegance combined with 180-degree stunning unobstructed views spanning the San Francisco skyline, Golden Gate Bridge and Mt. Tamalpais. Over 10,000 sq. ft. of interior with viewfilled rooms including an expansive living room that opens onto a large outdoor patio, glass-walled living with a meticulously maintained garden bursting with blossoms, an astonishing tiered rose garden, and intimate pool with terrace. Five bedrooms, seven baths, and two half baths plus an attached one bedroom one bath apartment over a three car garage… $19,880,000

Tiburon

$12,950,000

This premiere estate is located in one of Tiburon’s most exclusive neighborhoods and boasts lavish interiors, spectacular gardens, and awe-inspiring 360- degree views of the entire Bay Area. 6 BD, 7.5 BA .

$3,500,000

Represented Buyer (Eckart Noack, listing agent). Situated on a private knoll top lot, this home offers pan-

Extensively remodeled . 3 BD, 3.5 BA.

Sausalito

$2,150,000 The ultimate Northern California view property. Walls of glass overlooking the Bay. Watch America’s Cup 2013 in the comfort and beauty of your new home. 3 BD, 3.5 BA. 7 Wolfback.com

Tiburon

$1,688,000

Get into this prestigious Mt Tiburon neighborhood at a great price! Fix up or completely remodel this home with Bay & city homes in this neighborhood and the excellent school system.

Represented Buyers. This gracious old world home was rebuilt 4 years ago. Now a smart house with pool, steam room, & gourmet kitchen. The attention to detail is superior to anything in this price point by far. 4 BD, 2.5 BA.

Tiburon $3,375,000 Mediterranean home, grand entry, SF views, elegant dining room level children’s play area. Cook’s kitchen opens to family room.

Tiburon

$1,995,000

Panoramic views spanning the Golden Gate Bridge to downtown SF from this 33,000+ sf lot. In one of Tiburon’s most exclusive neighborhoods. Rare opportunity to build your 5000+ sf dream home. 24Venado.com

La Terrasse, Beverly Hills $1,550,000

minium building offering all that is best in Beverly Hills living with grand terraces for lavish indoor/outdoor entertaining,

Tavakoli 415.518.2439 k.tavakoli@deckerbullocksir.com

$3,900,000 First time ever on the market. This lovely Mediterranean-style home, custom built for its current owners in 1997, offers beautiful Bay views from the deck, master, and much of the

The Carlyle, Los Angeles

$3,200,000

Represented Buyer. One of the city's most impressive buildings with captivating city views. Incredible 3 bedroom, 3 bath with direct private foyer entrance, 11-foot

Nicasio

$1,695,000

Represented Buyers (B.G. Bates, listing agent). Period Arts & Crafts Design on 6+ acres. Featuring colorful gardens, sun room, and two courtyards. Impeccable details and built by a master craftsman. 4 BD, 3 BA.

Greenbrae

$1,275,000

This lovely waterfront home in Cape Marin offers the ultimate access to Marin outdoor activities. Panoramic water & Mt. Tam

Co-listed with Hugh Macmillan. 4 BD, 2.5 BA. 19Gretchen.com

Tremblay 415.902.1726 j.tremblay@deckerbullocksir.com ExclusiveMarinHomes.com

Belvedere, California

Architecturally significant contemporary residence. Elegant, 3bd/4.5ba residence and separate 1bd/1ba studio. Gated entry. Ultra state-of-the-art appointments, floor to ceiling windows and curved glass.

ExclusiveBelvedere.com

$6,395,000

Bill McKeon 415.828.6130

Sharon McKeon 415.828.4516

Diviso Street, Tiburon

Fantastic views abound from this lot in Old Town Tiburon. Breathtaking Golden Gate Bridge and SF views. Street to street lot. Plans available for a 3800sf home. Shown by appointment.

275Diviso.com

$1,900,000

John Griffin 415.948.7913

Sears Point Road, Sonoma

Reduced! Beautiful, 5bd/5.5ba mansion on 10+/-acres including a 6.5+/-acre vineyard. Open floor plan, large chef’s kitchen, 4-car garage, 1000 bottle wine cellar, and bay views.

3001SearsPoint.com

$3,850,000

Goli Majlessi 415.686.4955

McClay Road, Novato

2002 Mediterranean encompassing over 5400 square feet of single level living area. Situated on approximately 1.5 level acres of beautifully landscaped private grounds. 6 bedrooms, 5.5 baths.

NovatoParadise.com

$2,695,000

Lei Ann Werner

415.710.0117

Olive Avenue, Novato

Exquisite, 4+bd/5.5ba Mediterranean with masterful views, pool with spa and barbecue. Finishes include Venetian plaster, Travertine and limestone. Shown by appointment

290-Olive.com

$1,895,000

Lupine Court, San Rafael

Contemporary Mediterranean located in Peacock Greens. One-level, four bedroom, three bath, upscale home opens up to gardens, solar heated pool and sports area.

La Cuesta Drive, Greenbrae Spacious, sunny & stylish home! Large living room, family room & dining room all have vaulted ceilings. Sleek cook's kitchen, flexible floor plan with possible au pair set up. 2900+sf, 4+bd/2ba.

LaCuestaDrive.com

$1,497,000

Gwyn Jones 415.298.6119

200 - 29th Street #8, San Francisco 3bd/2.5ba home with top-of-the-line finishes, open floor plan, crown molding, gourmet kitchen, rooftop deck with city views, and two-car parking.

200TwentyNinthStreetNumber8.com

$1,195,000

Toni Abruzzo-Ramirez 415.827.8280

Red Rock Way, San Rafael Urban Sanctuary! Spacious 5bd/4+ba mini estate with “spa-like” appeal. Over an acre, sun-filled with views, chef’s kitchen, outdoor Tuscan kitchen, turn-key.

16RedRock.com

$1,495,000 Marlys Hooper

415.717.8200

Larkspur with Kentfield Schools

Coming Soon! Stylish, 4 bedroom, 2.5 bath, Murray Park home in a private, but close-in location. Pool and flat land on a .23+/-acre lot. Great room with chef’s kitchen.

JulieLeitzell.com

Summit Avenue, San Rafael True Estate Potential! Gated and located in Country Club. 5bd/3.5ba, 1903 Victorian, 3754+/-sf, on 2.25+acres of stunning, private land. Superb floor plan, beautiful woodwork and architectural design.

311Summit.com

$1,395,000

Marlys Hooper 415.717.8200

Snowden Lane, Fairfax 4 bedrooms, 4 baths. Straight-on Tam views from this elegant, 3600+/-sf, gated home built in 1996. Blocks to 901 API Manor Elementary. Main level master

Contemporary Craftsman in Calumet Park, San Anselmo

Rarely does one find a property of this caliber that meets the needs of the most discriminating buyer. This impeccably designed new home offers the perfect floor plan, superior finishes, incredible outdoor space, and the attention to detail for which you have been waiting. Walk down a stone path bordered by tasteful landscaping to the inviting entry. The style and warmth envelop you the moment you walk through the door. The main level features a spacious formal living + dining room leading to a chef’s vision of excellence. This confection of a kitchen features a six-burner Wolf range with oven, a second Wolf oven, Sub-Zero refrigerator, Miele dishwasher, large Carrera marble center island with second sink and bar area, ample storage, a walk-in pantry adjacent to a marble desk area with drawers, and an additional dining area. Designed with the ultimate indoor/outdoor living experience in

Chelsea E. Ialeggio presents 115 Calumet Avenue

Offered at $2,395,000

115Calumet.com mind, the adjacent great room opens seamlessly onto an Ipe wood deck, spacious bluestone patio, and large level lawn. Privacy abounds and sunlight is abundant, combining for the perfect setting for relaxing, playing, or entertaining. A powder room, mud room, inviting guest room or office with a full bathroom, and access to the spacious two-car garage complete this level. On the upper level you will find a laundry room, two additional bedrooms, and a second full bathroom with double sinks, and the master. The well-appointed master suite features a large walk-in closet, a spacious bathroom with polished Carrera marble counters, two sinks, a spacious shower with two shower heads and a bench seat, separate Jacuzzi tub, and a private toilet room. Verdant views, style and ease of living accent this special property. Living here you will feel as if you are on vacation year round. An architectural pleasure, this property will take your breath away.

Chelsea E. Ialeggio 415.300.6881 • cialeggio@fhallen.com ChelseaInMarin.com

01394011

Mill Valley

San Rafael Remodeled Eichler. Largest model with

Mill Valley

Larkspur

Valley

San Francisco, Millennium Tower condominium.

Sausalito Stunning custom home with

San Rafael

and pool and spa. Perfect! Listed at $749,000

Sales of single-family, re-sale homes rose 25.3% in June from May. Sales were up 0.5% year-over-year. Year-to-date, however, home sales are up 2.9%.

The median price for single-family, re-sale homes rose 3.7% in June compared to May. It was down 0.1% year-over-year.

The average price was up 2.6%, year-over-year.

FEATURED PROPERTIES

31 Grove Avenue, Corte Madera

Vintage Look, Polished Feel, Approved Plans

Quiet, sunny location on a charming, old-fashioned street near Old Town Pavillion & Larkspur/CM bike path. Extensively upgraded to be very pleasant as-is, and includes approved architectural plans for a beautiful expansion to make it a 3/3. Sunny, private backyard. Excellent schools, desirable, walkable neighborhood near shops, bistros & transit; even a peek of the bay! $789,000

149 Scenic Drive, San Anselmo

Spacious 5-Bedroom in Serene Setting

So much to love here: New kitchen, beautiful yard, soaring ceilings, a sense of peace & privacy. All in a convenient, close-in location. 4 bedrooms on the main level, a 2nd, oversized master suite upstairs (currently a delightful family room). Office, year-round stream. Walkable neighborhood (to school, bus stop, downtown San Anselmo & Fairfax). Ross Valley Schools. $1,225,000

Sharon Faccinto 415-272-3799 sfaccinto@mcguire.com

135 Avenida Miraflores, Tiburon 55 Eucalyptus Knoll, Mill Valley

Nantucket in Tiburon

Four bedroom, three and a half bath tastefully updated Nantucket style home with Bay Views. Great floor plan, level grassy yard with outdoor fireplace, Den/Study, wine cellar and playroom. $2,295,000

www.135AvenidaMiraflores.com

Lee Weldon 415-328-4400 lweldon@mcguire.com

Prime Location with All Day Sun

One of the largest end-units in desirable Eucalyptus Knolls. Quiet 2 Master Suites + den. Spacious living room with hardwood floors. Upgraded kitchen with granite & stainless steel appliances. $695,000

www.55Eucalyptus.com

Sharon Faccinto 415-272-3799 sfaccinto@mcguire.com

Chris DeNike 415-250-8052 cdenike@mcguire.com

FEATURED PROPERTIES

Gated 4+ bedroom Craftsman-style home offers a blend of elegance and comfort. Private mini-estate is sited on ½ acre with sunny park-like ambience. Completely renovated in 2006, the interiors are wonderfully inviting with an open floor plan and walls of windows overlooking the valley. Seamless landscaping provides indoor/ outdoor access for easy entertaining. $2,685,000 More photos at www.25Westwood.com Pat Montag 415-519-4818 pmontag@mcguire.com Ken Dara 415-425-3626 kdara@mcguire.com

Radio Days

IPoint Reyes was once the Pacific’s communication central.

BY JIM WOOD

N 1901, AN Italian physicist named Guglielmo Marconi sent a radio signal 2,170 miles across the Atlantic from England to Newfoundland, and the era of radio was born. In 1914, after building facilities in West Marin, most of which are still standing (the operating room of the Marshall receiving station is pictured above), Marconi began sending Morse code signals to Hawaii, then to Japan and China. During World War I, the U.S. Navy took over Marconi’s West Marin operations, and in 1929, RCA built an Art Deco–style receiving station in the far reaches of the Point Reyes National Seashore. “That facility was closed in 1997 when the Park Service took it over,” says radio historian Richard

Dillman. Then, after two years of total neglect, Dillman was allowed access to the once-powerful control room. “I expected to see it trashed, with dust, dirt, cobwebs and broken chairs,” he says. But upon approaching the room, Dillman, a Point Reyes Station resident, heard sounds. “I recognized them as ships checking in on Morse code,” he recalls, “and I thought a ghost was in there.” It turns out the station’s last manager had intentionally left the receiver on.

“Not only that,” says Dillman, “but the place was spotless. Coffee cups were washed and a calendar had the last day of operation circled — I still get goose bumps thinking about it.”

More information on the days of Morse code in West Marin is available at radiomarine.org. m

Coffee cups were washed and a calendar had the last day of operation circled — I still get goose bumps thinking about it.

CIRCA 1921