MARI N E X T R A O R D I N A R Y
SEPTEMBER 2007
L I V I N G
PHOTOGRAPHED BY SKREBNESKI
PHOTOGRAPHED BY SKREBNESKI
PHOTOGRAPHED BY SKREBNESKI
Limited Edition Cloth, Made To Measure
Honored “Best of Class” by Esquire Magazine
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CONTENTS
Features 84 home design
110
Paradise Found
Architect Greg Johnson creates a villa with a view in Tiburon. story p. j. bremier photos barbara ries
90 life
Team Cinammon
Nicasio’s Edgewood Farm is home to an Olympic horse in training. story p. j. bremier photos tim porter
96 fashion
Fall Fashion Takes the Reins
Ride in style with this year’s fabulous clothes. photos sasha gulish stylist peggi jeung
110 journey
The Jungle Speaks
Finding the soul of Africa in the search for a wild creature. story & photos alissa everett
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
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90 CONTENTS
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54
Departments
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SEPTEMBER 2007
28
letters
32
at a glance
39
snap
52
fashion trends
56
life style
Readers respond to Marin Magazine.
Hot tips day by day for the Bay Area.
Out and about, in and around Marin.
Teens are at the head of the class in style. by somer flaherty
Tiburon’ s Anyi Lu shares thoughts on fashion. by mimi towle
THE D;NJ 1OO O;7HI
MARC BY MARC JACOBS UNION SQUARE STANFORD CENTER NEIMANMARCUS.COM
116
CONTENTS
72
Departments 58
fyi Place: Presidio Yacht Club in Fort Baker. by olivia boler Books: Fall’s most-anticipated books. by samantha berry Business: Matchmakers Kelleher & Associates. by somer flaherty Art: All about the process. by samantha bronson Art with a heart. by jim wood Causes: Hospice by the Bay in Marin. by samantha bronson
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conversation
116
go
132
play
Joseph Lillis on his passion for the Sausalito Arts Festival.
The latest from Waikiki and outer islands. by ben davidson & m. l. lathan
Seventeen hikes in Marin County, right out your front door. by amy kuhn
179 CONTENTS
202
Departments 140 looking back
Three Marin homes with history. by jim wood
146 art
September fall art festivals. by anne crump ray
150 calendar
A roundup of performing arts, events, galleries and more.
164
flavor Sam’s Anchor Cafe—a Tiburon landmark. by erika lenkert Dine Out, an insider’s guide to Bay Area restaurants.
179 microclimate
Community spirit is alive and well in Sleepy Hollow. by jim wood
202 dialogue
Sarah Clark of local Radio Alice fame. by mimi towle
Columns The Cover Slope, by Marin artist James Shay,
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view from mount tam
30
pov
The creators of Marin Magazine welcome you to share their vision.
represented by Robert Green Fine Arts in Mill Valley. For more information visit rgfinearts.com or call 415.381.8776 . 14
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
Lulled by Marin’s Loveliness. by jim wood
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Art art director Anne Walzer ext 112 awalzer@marinmagazine.com
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SEPTEMBER 2007
Advertising publisher Lisa Shanower 415.332.4800 ext 107 lshanower@marinmagazine.com
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Volume 3, Issue 9. Marin Magazine is published in Marin County by Marin Magazine LLC. All rights reserved. Copyright©2007. Reproduction of Marin Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Marin Magazine LLC. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed monthly to homes and businesses in Marin County. Subscription rates are $36 per year. Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Sausalito, CA 94965. Phone 415.332.4800, fax 415.332.3048, e-mail editorial@marinmagazine.com, website marinmagazine.com. marin magazine is printed on 30% post consumer waste paper member of the bpa worldwide:
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SEPTEMBER 2007
2 0 , 0 0 0 W O R K S O F A R T, F I N E W I N E , G O U R M E T F O O D S , 3 0 P E R F O R M E R S O N 3 S T A G E S , C H I L D R E N ’ S A C T I V I T I E S No pets, please • Directions: Take Sausalito/Marin City exit off Highway 101 on the north side of town, head south and follow the signs
55TH ANNUAL ALL LABOR DAY WEEKEND F R I D A Y August 31, 2007
S A T U R D A Y September 1, 2007
S U N D A Y September 2, 2007
M O N D A Y September 3, 2007
THE HAPPENING
Jefferson Starship Grateful Dead’s Tom Constanten Moon Alice (formerly the Flying Other Bros.) It's a Big Bad Beautiful Day Quicksilver Messenger Service, and more...
Blind Boys of Alabama Bautista Vonda Shepard Tainted Love The Rowan Brothers, and more...
The Marshall Tucker Band Maids of Honor with Lex Vandenburg New Riders of the Purple Sage Nicholas, Glover, & Wray, and more...
A Gala Preview Party Celebrating the "Summer of Love" Catered by Dan McCall
Saturday & Sunday 9-6, Monday 9-5 • Adults $20, Seniors $10, 6-12 $5, under 6 Free • In Marinship Park and The Army Corps of Engineers – Bay Model Visitor Center Info: 415-331-3757 • Gala Tickets: 415-331-3738 • Advance Tickets: 415-331-1142 • Ferry Tickets (SF to SAF Pier): www.blueandgoldfleet.com • www.sausalitoartfestival.org
the whole home : yes
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V I E W F R O M M O U N T TA M
WE ASKED YOU LAST MONTH to say YES, to tell us
happily, eye to eye with an elusive lowland gorilla. Ben
you want to continue having Marin Magazine sent
Davidson opts for a more family-friendly experience on
FREE to your home. Your response was enthusiastic.
the shores of refurbished Waikiki, where the surf is up
Thank you so much. You’ve taken us a long way to-
and the turf is filled with shops.
ward our goal, but we still have a way to go and need
Back home, Amy Kuhn guides us on 17 Marin hikes,
more of you who live in Marin to say YES to a FREE
we take a right off Sir Francis Drake Boulevard and ex-
Marin Magazine subscription. See the cover wrap on this
plore the hideaway suburb of Sleepy Hollow; Olivia
month’s issue for details. Thanks again for your support!
Boler discovers—right behind the Discovery Museum—
This month we take you on a series of journeys—
history in the story in the Presidio Yacht Club; and Erika
some literal and some figurative. We travel to Nicasio,
Lenkert samples the menu classics at Sam’s Anchor Café
where Edgewood Farms provides an equestrian backdrop
and dines on food as mouthwatering as the view.
for Sasha Gulish’s evocative photographs of fall fashion.
Also this month, we have a Conversation with
Edgewood is also home to a pair of Olympic hopefuls—
Joseph Lillis of the Sausalito Arts Festival, meet the
Cinnamon 005, a magnificent Holsteiner horse, and his
mother-daughter matchmaking team Jill and Amber
rider, Mariano Alario. P. J. Bremier tells their tale.
Kelleher, and have a Dialogue with Sarah Clark, of
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MARIN
Radio Alice fame. As always, our wish is for your good reading. Enjoy
with the help of architect Greg Johnson, built a 4,000-
Marin Magazine, as we continue to celebrate this
square-foot villa with a vista—on the beach.
extraordinary place!
Leaving Marin, photographer and writer Alissa
Lisa Shanower, Publisher
Everett journeys to the jungle of the Congo Basin, Joseph
Nikki Wood, Editorial Director
Conrad’s notorious heart of darkness, and finds herself,
Jim Wood, Executive Editor
SEPTEMBER 2007
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
PHOTO: BARBARA RIES
In Home Design, P. J. surfaces again with the story of a Tiburon family who bought a dilapidated barge and,
Why Dream in Color when you can live it? For a limited time the islands of Tahiti are offering spectacular values including FREE meals* at many of our resorts. To take advantage of these remarkable offers, and register to win a Tahitian black pearl valued at $3,000, visit Marin.TahitiTourism.com. *Available at participating Starwood Hotels and Resorts, InterContinental Hotels and Resorts, Accor Hotels, Bora Bora Lagoon Resort, Kia Ora Hotels, Le Meridien Hotels and Resorts, Le Maitia Hotels, and Pearl Resorts. WHY DREAM IN COLOR SWEEPSTAKES ABBREVIATED OFFICIAL RULES. No purchase necessary. Void where prohibited. Must be 21 to enter. Odds of winning depend on final qualified entries received. Valid in Continental U.S. and Hawaii. Sweepstakes ends 12/15/07. Subject to Official Rules at TahitiTourisme.com/Rules.
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LE TTE R S
Readers respond Thank you for your article about whether the MMWD should use Roundup in our watershed. Previous E PA Roundup testing occurred in 1 9 9 3 , when its use was certified. Since then other, non-E PA research has raised new questions about its possible tox icities. In response to those concerns, the E PA is launching a $10 million study of possible endocrine-disrupting tox ic effects of several pesticides, including Roundup. E ndocrine disruptors are so named, because they affect hormones levels, including testosterone, and estrogen. E x cess testosterone stimulates prostate cancer, and ex cess estrogen stimulates breast cancer. These are serious matters. William Rothman, M.D. E x cellent article in August issue. I most heartily agree with your position about the controlled use of glyphosate ( Roundup) for the removal of French and Scotch broom. Marv Levinson, Greenbrae As someone who grew up here and now mountain bikes on Tam’ s trails, I am conscious of the tenacious broom plants. The idea of using Roundup to help curb the spread of broom seems counter to our having healthy drinking water from Mount Tam’ s watershed. Some time ago, I made a vow to myself that each time I was on the mountain I would take a moment to pull some broom. Why don’ t we start a campaign to “ Make A Vow.” With all the hikers, bikers and moun-
welcome . enjoy . indulge fine women’s clothing & accessories
tain play attendees, surely we could make a difference and not take the pesticide route. Jeanne Imai, Ross
nanette lepore • norma kamali • save the queen • isabel de pedro suzi roher • autumn cashmere • trina turk • three dot • vince
Letters to the editor may be edited for clarity
(415) 892-2255 • bettyann869@aol.com • 869 Grant Avenue, Novato
Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965.
and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magaz ine, One Or e-mail jwood@marinmagazine.com.
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SEPTEMBER 2007
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Lulled by Marin’s Loveliness Two programs that keep the county realistic and responsible
BY JIM WOOD
50 plus inches; greater concentration of brush
Orleans following Hurricane Katrina. “Most
than ever before—the result of nonnative
injuries and sickness came from people being
plant infestation; and considerable amounts
isolated in their homes for long periods of time
of dry leaves and branches—the dead debris
with no food, no power, no water—things we
of Sudden Oak Death Syndrome.
need every day,” Cromwell says.
There’s one more factor: people. “Home
More than 2,500 residents of the Tiburon
owners in these areas value their privacy,” Julin
Peninsula have already taken GET READY train-
says. “They’ve planted pines, firs and cypress for
ing. In September GET READY classes will be
screening purposes, which only increases the
given throughout Marin. “GET READY is big and it’s getting bigger
The 16 directors of FIRESafe Marin—a non-
all the time,” says Corte Madera Fire Chief Bob
profit formed following the 1991 Oakland/
Fox, who’s secured funding (including $200,000
Berkeley firestorm that killed 25 people and
from the Department of Homeland Security)
destroyed nearly 3,000 homes (one every 11
from communities and groups throughout Marin
seconds)—are so concerned about a wildfire
and is the countywide chairman of the effort.
he fire started around two o’clock
T
that they’ve produced a DVD, Marin on Fire—
Fox says 700 banners will soon be up and spe-
in Mill Valley, on a hillside in West
Preparing for the Next Urban Wildfire.
cial events—such as a dinner at Sam’s Anchor
Blithedale Canyon. The area was
“The conditions that existed in Oakland
Cafe in Tiburon or a chicken barbecue in the
heavy with pines parched from a dry winter.
in 1991,” says narrator Peter Coyote, “exist in
Corte Madera Rec Center—will follow the two-
By three o’clock—pushed by winds gusting
Marin today.” The 30-minute DVD explores the
hour GET READY class.
to 60 miles per hour—flames had jumped to
damage flying embers can inflict, what plantings
The power point presentation and Marin- spe-
Throckmorton Ridge and were heading down-
a home owner should eliminate, and how using
cific manual cover basic first aid, utility shut off,
town. Residents fled on narrow roads, their
untreated wood shingles on roofs and sidings “is
how to gather and store a week’s worth of food
cars clogging the way for fire trucks rushing to
like covering your home with kindling.” Marin
and water and the importance of knowing neigh-
douse the flames. The burn lasted two days. By
on Fire is available for $20.26 (tax and shipping
bors prior to the time a natural disaster strikes.
the end, 117 homes were lost and more than
included) from FIRESafe Marin, 415.446.4420
Is there a better investment of two hours than
2,500 acres scorched. Luckily, no one died.
or firesafemarin.org. Think of it as an investment
this? I doubt it. Class schedules can be found at
That fire occurred nearly 80 years ago.
in the future. As Coyote concludes, “Once your
getreadymarin.org.
A sudden shift in winds kept the destruction
home is destroyed by wildfire, it’s too late to
from being much worse. Today, as Marin’s
plan for prevention.”
In Marin, it’s easy to think the loveliness will go on forever. Let’s hope it does. Let’s also be re-
warmest days approach, fire officials are
As for planning for any type of natural
alistic: a warm windy day and one careless act
warning that a similar fire is likely—and the
disaster, the two key words are GET READY.
in heavily forested Marin can suddenly change
potential devastation much greater. “Marin’s
“It’s a two-hour class that teaches you how to
everything, as would a slight shift in the nearby
hillside communities were designed with lit-
take care of yourself and your family for five
San Andreas Fault. Watching Marin on Fire and
tle consideration for fire danger,” says Kent
to seven days in the event of a fire, flood or
attending a GET READY course are essential
Julin, a forester with the Marin County Fire
earthquake,” says Laurie Nilsen, Tiburon’s
to responsible living in Marin.
Department. Three conditions elevate the
emergency services coordinator. The instigator
peril of fire this year: A winter of less-than-
of the program was Belvedere physician Tom
normal rainfall—36 compared to the typical
Cromwell, who did volunteer work in New
30
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
That’s my point of view. What’s yours? Email jwood@marinmagazine.com
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
PHOTO: BARBARA RIES
fire danger to their homes.”
Life, returned to its pre-junkyard state. Remember when life wasn’t so cluttered and chaotic? Upgrade the junkyard. With premium cabinetry, versatile wall storage, striking floor finishes and hundreds of cool ways to organize that avalanche of stuff. We handle everything from the 3D drawings to final installation. And the consultation is also on the house (or in this case, garage). Life minus junk equals joy.
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Calm. Cool. Very Collected.
AT A G LAN C E
S E PT EM BER SEPTEMBER 3 Labor Day
SEPTEMBER 8 Yo-Yo Championships
Over 1,200 artists vied for the 260 positions available at this year’s festival. Bay Model Visitor Center and Marinship Park (Sausalito). 415.331.3757, sausalitoartfestival.org
A day dedicated to the American worker. Travel, barbecue or just relax— do anything but go to work.
Tricks like Walk the Dog and Boingy Boingy are no match for competitors at this event where the winner will be named California’s best. Exploratorium (SF). 415.563.7337, exploratorium.edu
▼
SEPTEMBER 1—3 Sausalito Art Festival
SEPTEMBER 14 San Francisco Parks Trust Fundraiser
Celebrate the retailer’s 100th anniversary with events this fall. Today enjoy their famous cookie and recipe for free. Neiman Marcus (SF). 415.362.3900, neimanmarcus.com
Support the city’s 5,400 acres of parkland and recreation areas at this fall benefit featuring surprise musical guests. Golden Gate Park Music Concourse (SF). 415.750.5107, sfpt.org ▼
SEPTEMBER 10 Neiman’s Chocolate Chip Cookie Day
SEPTEMBER 15 & 16 Mill Valley Fall Arts Festival
Contemporary photography by Ann Baldwin, Lawrie Brown and others in Photographic Narratives. 1408 Mission Ave, San Rafael. 415.485.3438, falkirkculturalcenter.org
At the foot of Mount Tam, experience a weekend of music and art at this 51st annual event to raise funds for Old Mill Park. Old Mill Park (Mill Valley). 415.381.8090, mvfaf.org
▼
SEPTEMBER 14— DECEMBER 29 Falkirk Cultural Center
Marin designers take over a local home at this 38th annual event for the Center for Volunteer and Nonprofit Leadership. 415.479.5691, marindesignersshowcase.com
The charity tournament begins with women’s doubles and round robin play and finishes with a preview of the latest tennis fashions. Marin Tennis Club (San Rafael). 415.455.5882, tocelebratelife.org ▼
SEPTEMBER 27 & 28 A Spin on History Track local landmarks, historical names and personalities in the play The Ghosts of Tiburon and Belvedere. TiburonBelvedere Landmarks Society (Tiburon). 415.435.1853, landmarks-society.org
SEPTEMBER 29 Floating Homes Tour
SEPTEMBER 30 Sleepy Hollow
Enjoy beer, bratwurst, entertainment from the Edelweiss German Band and delicious apple strudel from Sweden House. Main St (Tiburon). 415.435.5633, tiburonchamber.org
Look inside 15 waterfront homes, including the Hippo home, which doubles as a work studio for a renowned artist. Kappas Marina (Sausalito). 415.332.1916, floatinghomes.
Tour five home and gardens and a festive market square featuring local artisans at this annual fundraiser. Sleepy Hollow Clubhouse (San Anselmo). 415.460.1419, sleepyhollowtours.org
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MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
▼
SEPTEMBER 28 Oktoberfest on Main
▼
EVE NT S IN MA R IN & B EYO N D
SEPTEMBER 18— OCTOBER 7 Designer’s Showcase
SEPTEMBER 17 Rally to Celebrate Life
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
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M A R I N ALBUM
The County Fear BY TIM PORTER ONE OF THE GREAT THINGS about county fairs is their consistency. From Maine to Marin, this summertime perennial blossoms in communities across the land with an iconic collection of sights, smells and sounds. A county-fair fan from 50 years ago would, aside from advancements in electronics,
“The basis of optimism is sheer terror.”
find little changed today. Amid the aisles of the arcade, tattooed barkers with Runyonesque
— OSCA R W IL DE
the only variation depending on your height or your tolerance for sustained physical inversion.
faces woo strolling couples or families toward games of chance (mostly the chance that you’ll drop a pair of Jacksons winning your cutie or your kid a $10 stuffed monkey). The rides, garishly festooned, but with their industrial underpinnings unabashedly on display, all do one of two things—spin or drop you to the point of nauseous delirium, with Permeating everything is the smell of fair food, a not unpleasant bouquet of charred meat, scalded sugar and beer gone bad. The scent clings to your clothing and reminds you much afterward of your indulgent dalliance with a crusty-skinned turkey leg the size of a ham or a candied apple with bulletproof coating or a diaphanous blue swirl of cotton candy. It is after a meal like this that, perhaps emboldened by the carbohydrate rush hitting the colored coaster cars and riding the yellow rails toward the edge of the first, and biggest, drop, reality returns. There, directly in front, is the fear—and the fun (such a thin line between the two). Many scream. Others face stonily forward. And some just choose to endure and plunge blindly ahead.
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SEPTEMBER 2007
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
PHOTO: TIM PORTER
bloodstream, some fairgoers head for the roller coaster. Once you’re aboard the brightly
OCTOBER 4–14 | 2007 tickets: 877 874 MVFF mvff.com Presented by the California Film Institute
Agency: Scheyer/SF www.scheyer.com Design: MINE™ www.minesf.com
M A R I N GR E E N
John Shurtz: Blazing the Eco Trail
BY MIMI TOWLE
For the past three decades John Shurtz of San Rafael
about 5 percent more now to buy FSC-certified lum-
has been building houses. For nearly a third of that time,
ber,” a designation that means the wood’s eco-pedigree
and long before most builders, he’s done his job with an
is monitored from forest to mill to retailer. And nontoxic
eye toward sustainability. In the late ’90s he decided not
low-volatile-organic-compound (VOC) paints, now priced
to use old-growth wood; then, as founder and president
about the same as standard paint, have been of compa-
of Green Builders of Marin, he embraced issues like ener-
rable quality in recent years.
gy efficiency, resource conservation, waste management
For anyone wanting to green up their building proj-
and indoor air quality. Last March, Green Builders won
ect, greenbuildersofmarin.com has a checklist for every
the Sustainable 6 award, which honors businesses in the
stage of construction. “The easiest choice to make would
6th Assembly District that incorporate environmentally
be using low-VOC paint,” says Shurtz. Also, choosing
friendly practices into the way they operate.
engineered lumber for trim “is easy, and results in better quality, without [the need] to cut down large trees.” Demolition materials and construction debris can be
a decade ago. “It used to be that using sustainably
recycled at the recycling plant right in San Rafael.
harvested lumber was 10 to 20 percent more expensive,”
Besides his own website, greenbuildersofmarin.com,
he says. Today, “due to economies of scale, that differ-
Shurtz directs clients to call Build It Green’s “Ask an
ential is almost nonexistent.” For instance, “it may [cost]
Expert” at 888.40.GREEN.
PHOTO: BARBARA RIES
Thanks to pioneering builders like Shurtz, going green isn’t as expensive or complicated as it was just
36
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
A private flight to a community like no other. Now boarding.
For more information contact Royal Lahaina Realty at 808.270.9777 or visit royallahainavillas.com. This is not intended to be an offer to sell nor a solicitation of offers to buy real estate in the Villas at Royal Lahaina and shall not be used in any state where prohibited by law or where registration requirements have not been met. Developer reserves the right to change any information contained herein without any prior notice and disclaim any duty to update the information. Features subject to change without notice.
Experience the Difference For nearly 90 years, McGuire has been one of the most successful luxury real estate firms in the Bay Area. Our integrity, unrivaled knowledge of the marketplace, and our extraordinary commitment to service have been the keys to this success.
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415.296.0123
Marin • Peninsula Marina • Downtown • Noe Valley
S NA P MARIN ORGANIC
Tom Stubbs
Mary Stubbs, Karen Goldberg
Beth Moon, Sean Thackrey
Helge Hellberg, Michael Pollan
Making a Change Stubbs Ranch in West Marin was the setting for an idyllic evening where guests enjoyed Stubbs organic wines and local cuisine prepared by Manka’s Daniel Delong and Margaret Grady. Words of wisdom and sustenance insight from guest of honor author Michael Pollan rounded out the evening benefiting Marin Organic. At the Marin Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium in San Rafael Dominican University of California and Book Passage sponsored a lecture by former Vice President Al Gore. Peter Moon
Lisa Bush, Nancy and Kevin Lunny
Approximately 2,000 people attended the event, including Dominican president Joseph R. Fink and the ex-VP, who signed copies of his latest book The Assault on Reason. Joseph R. Fink
John Allen Al Gore, Thomas Peters
MARIN ORGANIC/MARCENA HOPKINS PETERSON
Dan Goldfield, Loie Sauer
DOMINICAN
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
39
SNAP HONEYS AND HEROES
Alanna Klein
Liz and Katie Held
Thalia Starko-Jones
It’s About the Kids In Mill Valley it was all about the little ones at the grand opening VIP party for new kids’ boutique Honeys and Heroes. Owner Alanna Klein (who also owns Presidio Heights hot spot Pumpkin) was on hand to greet guests (and their children), who shopped for the latest must-haves from brands like Ella Moss and True Religion. At the foot of the Golden Gate Bridge grown-ups were getting in on the fun at the Bay Area Discovery Museum’s Play Date 2007. The colorful cocktail party included big-kid auction items like a seven-day siesta at a private playground on the sea of Cortez, a Costa Rican
Olivia and Michelle Arthur, Corbin and Kimberly Pinkson Krissy, Chris and Marco Carisetti
eco-adventure and an exhilarating ride in a Formula One race car.
DISCOVERY MUSEUM
Bo and Kathryn Lasater
Luke MacNaughton
Sheridan Miller
DISCOVERY MUSEUM AND HONEYS AND HEROES/DREW ALTIZER
Stephanie Mellin, Nicole Sheehan, Kristy Patterson
Casey O’Connell, Leigh Matthes
Danielle Lane, Colleen Amster
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MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
Valerie St. John Starbird, Summer Tompkins Walker
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
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67
SNAP MARIN THEATRE COMPANY
Gabriella Calicchio, Michael Janes
Jeannie and Christopher B. Smith
Gary and Dana Shapiro Jackie Neuwirth-Swire, Andrew Rich
Gillian Donahey
Margi English, Maurice Canbar, Jasson Minadakis
The Arts
HEADLANDS CENTER FOR THE ARTS
Marin Theatre Company hosted “Forty Years on the Road with MTC” as a gala celebration to raise funds for the group’s new roof. The group’s live productions are a unique part of Mill Valley’s artistic scene. The Headlands Center for the Arts held a benefit art auction with guest auctioneer Durwood Zedd, getting the crowd excited to buy works from Dennis Adams, Lylah Ali, Ray Beldner and others. The night raised nearly $100,000, which will support the artist in residence programs. At Merola’s 50th Anniversary Gala, “Voices Heard ’Round the World,” guests celebrated five decades of training future
Veronica Napoles, Rebecca Lehrer
Linda Nation Astrid and Mike Carney
San Francisco Opera stars. The evening included a concert featuring Merola alumni, a seated dinner and post-dinner lounge made possible by gala cochairs Amii Barnard-Bahn and Patrick Wilken. David Hugle, Natalie Shuttleworth
Linda Kemper, David Gockley
MEROLA
James and Joan Kelly
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MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
Mary Sue and Maurice Bizzarri, Tracy Grant
Patrick Wilkin, Amii and Michael Barnard-Bahn
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
MEROLA/DREW ALTIZER, MARIN THEATRE AND HEADLANDS/SHERI MONTGOMERY
Gary Sangster, Durwood Zedd
Erin Fleming Yogi Bay Club Marin
SNAP BOYS AND GIRLS CLUBS
Carrie Schwab Pomerantz, Charles Schwab
BEYOND HUNGER
Steve Strandberg, Rocky Fried, Rob Connolly, Bob Emery
Don and Doris Fisher
Mark Stefanski, Susan Z, Shannon Myers, Jennifer Naegele
Mimi and Daniel Kingsley
Tracy and Andrew Matthes
Summertime Philanthropy In San Francisco’s Mission neighborhood Gap founders Doris and Don Fisher were honored for their 43 years of service to the Boys and Girls Clubs of San Francisco at the Opening Doors for Kids gala. The event raised $700,000, which will help the club to continue to provide high-quality programs, staff and facilities for youth. At the San Rafael Community Center, Beyond Hunger held its third annual Building a Community for Prevention fundraiser. Musical guests Susan Z, Shana Morrison and Jennifer Naegele entertained at the benefit concert, which raises funds for education programs to prevent
SUMMER SEARCH
eating disorders in Marin’s schools. In Mill Valley it was a sold-out event at the town community center for the second annual Summer Search North Bay luncheon. Almost $200,000 was raised for programs that will serve students in Marin, Sonoma and Napa counties. Summer Search inspires low-income high school students to become responsible and altruistic leaders by providing year-round mentoring, life-changing summer experiences, college advising and a lasting support network.
Erin Elliott, Linda Mornell, Jessica Vibberts, Jay Jacobs
BOYS AND GIRLS CLUB/TOM GIBBONS
Liz Hale, Jessica Acosta
Bart Welles, Mike LaHorgue, Bo Stehlin, Tom Hale, Nancy Farese, Ted Williams, Lisa Halsted
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MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
SNAP AMBASSADORS OF HOPE AND OPPORTUNITY
Ingrid and Larry Goldfarb
Suzanne Dunwell, Judy Arnold
Zara Babitzke, Evan Kraus, Ethel Seiderman, Jonathan Frieman
Bay Area Art Scene In Marin Ambassadors of Hope and Opportunity (AHO) hosted its sixth community event to create awareness about youth homelessness. The art benefit and wine reception also included a sneak preview of the new documentary Youth Homelessness . . . A Growing Trend, which highlights youth homelessness in Marin County. In San Jimmy Hayes, Amy Phelan
Molly Kent Schardt
Francisco Le Méridien hotel recently debuted an on-site art installation by Chris Johanson and Jo Jackson entitled Paradise Library. The
ARTRAGEOUS
exhibit is part of the hotel’s Unlock Art program, which is designed to appeal to guests’ cultural curiosity and provide them access to local contemporary art institutions. As part of the installation the artists have selected books that have inspired people throughout time. As with a traditional library, these books are offered to guests to enjoy at their leisure. Guests may also add books of their own to the collection for others to enjoy. San Rafael’s nonprofit art center Art Works Downtown held its third annual ArtRageous fundraiser. The baccha-
Galina Greene, Phyllis Thelen
Sam Gingold, Petrina Wielgos
nalian-themed fête featured a performance by Sha Sha Higby, food by Jay Yinger, fire dancing and other delights.
Jay Yinger, Joanne Dunn, Ann Langston
Audrey Attardo, Rachel Moore, James Worsham, Sharon Kirby, Savannah Hall, Lydia Kirby
LE MÉRIDIEN
LE MERIDIEN/MONA T. BROOKS
Sarah Dunlap, Kim Tiret, Frank Lucier
Cynthia Glinka, Devon Kessler, Simon MaisCharles Popell
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MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
Andrea Griffen
Tracey Flynn
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
“The Fine Art of Fine Property” Tracy McLaughlin Specializing in Marin County Properties since 1997
Tracy McLaughlin 415/464-8686 www.marinfinehomes.com tracy@marinfinehomes.com
F Y I D ECO R
BIG IDEAS, SMALL SPACES
1
Small Space Solutions by Marin Designer Nancy Van Natta (and Quincy) Begin by editing your color choice. Whether your color is dark and saturated or light and airy, you need to use one color throughout, along with a couple of small accents for interest. This means that the cabinetry should be the same color as the walls, the ceiling should be a lighter version of the wall color and flooring should be
Be inspired. Tight quarters didn’t stop Leonardo Da Vinci, who wrote in his notebooks, “Small rooms or dwellings set the mind in the right path; large
tone-on-tone. If you want to stick with one trim color throughout the home, go
ones cause it to go astray.” With tips from Marin designer Nancy Van Natta,
ahead and use the same paint on the trim and the walls in a small room.
here are some pieces to enhance any small room.
Edit the furnishings in a small room
1. Last-minute additions to the
by eliminating lots of small things and in-
dinner party are no problem with
cluding just one or two pieces that fit the
the Sienna Round Dining Table;
space perfectly. Fabrics should be sim-
the perimeter extension leaves
plified to flow easily with the walls.
add an extra 16 inches for
Small spaces require that there’s a
more elbow room. $2,315 at
place for everything and everything’s
Brownstone (SF). 415.861.2426
in its place. You need clever solutions
brownstonefurniture.com
for storage — drawers under a bed or in a banquette, a cabinet or niche tucked
2. This set of maple nesting tables
between the studs in a wall, and furniture
features a contemporary triangular
like a storage ottoman that does double
design by Councill. $3,626 at
duty. Even one or two items left out can make a small space seem cluttered.
2
Cabana Home (Mill Valley). 415.383.0201, cabanahome.com
— M.T.
48
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
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F Y I D ECO R
4
3 5
CAPTURING THE RIGHT DESIGN FOR THE SPACE 3. Double the workspace with the Jay desk and hutch, which features a roll-out extension and optional top hutch; available in acorn, chocolate, white or black. $199 for the desk, $99 for the hutch at West Elm (Corte Madera). 415.927.0202, westelm.com 4. Designer Pietro Arosio’s Italian-made Sliding Sofa with removable upholstery (for cleaning) can be transformed to a queen-size sleeper by just one person with ease; available in green, grey, red or beige. $2,998 at Design Within Reach (Mill Valley).415.384.0480, dwr.com 5. Keep the mudroom organized and clutter-cleared with a combination of hanging and shelf storage with deep drawer space and cubbies for those off-season accessories. Approximately $3,200 at California Closets (San Rafael). 415.455.1200, calclosets.com 6. Hide blankets, pillows and just about anything in this Toronto Storage Bench Ottoman; available in light cream or black. EVERY INCH COUNTS. According to broker and Marin real estate
$499 at Scandinavian Designs (San Rafael). 415.457.5500, scandinaviandesigns.com
blogger Kyle Frazier, the recent average sale price per square foot in Marin has reached a staggering $620. Get every dollar out of a tiny space by using versatile furniture that can easily blend into the area and serve a purpose. — S.F. 6
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MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
(415) 435-5264 74 Main Street Ark Row
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Baobab Gallery & Gifts
(415) 789-0846 106 Main Street Ark Row
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(415) 789-1761 108 Main Street Ark Row
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For leasing and information, please contact Zelinsky Properties at (415) 435-1053.
(415) 378-1704 80 Main Street Ark Row
FA S H I O N TRENDS
This page on Alec Hat by Billabong, $24 at Honeys and Heroes (Mill Valley) 415.380.1782. Shirt by Billabong, $18 at Honeys and Heroes (Mill Valley). Jeans by Diesel, $54 at Honeys and Heroes (Mill Valley). Sandals by Locals, $5 at calocals.com. On Morgan Top by Juicy Couture, $298 at Juicy Couture (SF) 415.391.1362. Jeans by Hudson, $199 at Rumors (Larkspur) 415.927.0226.
HEAD OF THE CLASS STYLE Oppressive dress codes can’t stop a stylish school year. For teens this season’s trends are all about personal style and run the gamut from fitted blazers and skinny denim to surf and skate apparel in an autumn palette inspired by falling leaves and warm apple cider.
BY SOMER FLAHERTY PHOTOS SASHA GULISH
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SEPTEMBER 2007
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Local • Seasonal • Sustainable
Let us Season Your Next Event
All Seasons A
C A T E R I N G
C O M P A N Y
415-383-9355 201 Seminar y Drive, Mill Valley, Ca.94941 www.allseasonscatering.com
This page, top left, on Morgan Top by DaNang, $150 at Rumors (Larkspur) 415.927.0226. Jeans by Hudson, $199 at Rumors (Larkspur). Saddle ring by Kathy Kamei, $108 at M Clothing (Corte Madera) 415.924.8891. Boots by Frye, $298 at Item Shoes (Larkspur) 415.925.0109. Top right, on Alec Hat by Billabong, $40 at Honeys and Heroes (Mill Valley) 415.380.1782. Jacket by Billabong, $52 at Honeys and Heroes (Mill Valley). Shirt by Manuka Clothing, $16 at Proof Lab (Mill Valley) 415.380.8900. Bottom left, on Morgan Shirt by Mossimo for Target, $18 at Target (Novato) 415.892.3313. Button-up top by BCBG, $138 at Macys (Corte Madera) 415.927.3333. Bottom right, on Morgan Shirt by Mossimo for Target, $18 at Target (Novato).. Crochet top by BCBGirls, $98 at Nordstrom (Corte Madera) 415.927.1690. Shorts by BCBGirls, $78 at Nordstrom (Corte Madera).
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MARINMAGAZINE.COM
EXHIBITION + SALE of the finest in home furnishings from the top designers and manufacturers in the nation
One-Stop Shopping for furniture, lighting, flooring, bed, bath, kitchen, accessories and more! Special appearance by
Kenneth Brown of HGTV’s reDesign The latest in Green Design products, materials and technology
Decorating Tips + Design Trends from industry leaders
Free Design Consultations Complimentary Wine Receptions Outdoor Living Showcase
O CT OBER 26- 28 20 0 7 HERBST PAVILION FORT MASON CENTER SAN FRANCISCO
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FA S H I O N
lifestyle Name Anyi Lu Home Tiburon Occupation shoe designer
Describe your personal style. Classically clean and simple with enough quirky details to keep things interesting. I favor retro influences and whimsical touches. I love mixing vintage and modern pieces. What are you wearing? I honestly don’t remember where I got this black knit top; I must have 20 just like it in my closet. The skirt is from Catherine Jane. I like the understated details on this piece. And of course, my favorite “Spicy” black patent croc pump. I could wear them every day and with everything I own. They are super-comfortable, and I could walk around San Francisco in them. Who are your fashion influences? Coco Chanel revolutionized women’s fashion by shunning corsetry and bustles, empowering women by giving them freedom of movement and choices they enjoy today. She believed Tiburon’s Anyi Lu—a
luxury was as spiritual a need as love—but
former chemical
luxury on her terms was low-key, not vulgar.
engineer by day, and
“Fashion passes; style remains,” she said.
competitive ballroom dancer by night—is now
Favorite designers? I get one cotton wrap
an acclaimed shoe
dress from Diane von Furstenberg every sea-
designer. Made with
son. Oh, and I am always on the lookout for
precision and creativity,
vintage Alaia and Chanel.
pumps excel in fit,
Where do you love to shop in Marin?
flexibility and style. Find
Catherine Jane in Mill Valley and the Sunday
her Naomi pumps in
Farmers’ Market in San Rafael.
our fall fashion shoot on page 106.
What is always in your bag/pockets? Lipstick from Nars—Dolce Vita, to be exact.
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MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
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P H OTO: BARBA RA R IE S
her sandals, flats and
What is your best cheapo secret? My huge, sparkling camellia cocktail ring from Agatha. What’s your fashion pet peeve? Women who wear one designer from head to toe, especially all from the same collection. It’s kind of saying that I don’t have my own style, so I just let my credit card dress me. Where do you love to eat in Marin? Three Degrees in Tiburon is my new favorite spot. I love to cozy up next to the fire [there] on a cool foggy evening. Their dressing for the Farmers’ Market Salad is to die for. How do you spend your weekends? I have a two-year-old…need I say more? Where do you go to pamper yourself? I truly enjoy Mill Valley Massage. I usually get a long massage after my international flights. How would your friends describe you? Sweet lemonade.
T ha n k g o o d n es s f o r What was the last book you read? Mr. Brown Can Moo! Can You? by Dr. Seuss.
Wailea Beach Villas ESCAPE TO THE RESORT THAT INVITES YOU TO INDULGE
What was the last movie you saw?
ger for learning, hard work, and never giv-
Is it a beachfront massage with warm cocoa butter coated stones, a personal chef creating a culinary masterpiece in your in-suite gourmet kitchen, a sweet tropical drink at your very own plunge pool, or a beach attendant offering you a cool face cloth…we invite to experience Wailea Beach Villas in beautiful Maui.
ing up on the people who make you truly
What’s your definition of luxury resort?
“wealthy” can break destructive cycles and
(this is ours)
The Pursuit of Happyness. I saw it three times on cross-Atlantic flights. I cried and laughed each time. It bears the message that a hun-
propel anyone to unlimited heights—no matter what their circumstances may be. If your life were a movie, what would be your theme song? “The Star-Spangled Banner.” I am proud to be American. I obtained my U.S. citizenship 12 years ago. As a global nomad, I lived on three continents before settling in Marin. I still fly between Florence and San Francisco eight times a year. I am so happy to find a place to call home. Marin is the most beautiful place in the world. MARINMAGAZINE.COM
866-901-5207
www.waileabeachvillas.com
A distinctive experience provided by Destination Hotels & Resorts.
MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
57
F Y I PL ACE
Presidio Yacht Club
O
ne of Marin’s best-kept-secret views
has that glorious view of the bridge, stretching
San Francisco got permission to use the build-
of the Golden Gate Bridge is
from high above the quiet cove to the far shore
ing as a yacht club. The first commodore was
through the windows of an unas-
of San Francisco.
appointed in 1959. In 1995, when the army
suming-looking building that sits behind the
For all this—except the bridge—we can
vacated the Presidio, the U.S. Air Force took
Discovery Museum on the shore of Horseshoe
thank the U.S. Army, which constructed the
over the supervision of the club and it is still
Cove at Fort Baker.
yacht club building in 1942 during World War II
operated by Travis Air Force Base.
The building houses the Presidio Yacht
to support an antiship and submarine mine-
Today, the building has two main public
Club, an exclusive-sounding name that’s ut-
field just outside the Golden Gate. At the same
areas. The ground level—in the former carpen-
terly misleading because the club couldn’t be
time, the army built the breakwater that pro-
ters’ shop—contains a dining room that can
more egalitarian. It’s open to the public, the
tects the cove.
be rented for wedding receptions, parties or
drinks are cold and cheap, rock-and-roll bands
After the war, the army phased out the fa-
other special occasions. There’s also a kitchen
play there many weekends and, of course, it
cility, but personnel stationed at the Presidio in
for caterers (or the club can provide a chef).
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P H OTO: TIM P ORTER
A hidden gem with stunning bay views in Fort Baker BY OLIVIA BOLER
Upstairs is the casual lounge called Mike’s
Rebecca Taylor • Theory • Nanette Lepore • Joe’s Jeans Burning Torch • Trina Turk • Milly • Generra • lisli Citizens of Humanity • Velvet • A Common Thread • Joie Tom Nguyen • Charlotte Ronson • Rachel Pally • Vince • James Perse Bailey 44 • Ella Moss • Norma Kamali for Everlast • 3.1 Phillip Lim Rozae Nichols • Diane von Furstenberg • Splendid • Free People Level99 • Corey Lynn Calter • Turk + Taylor • Lilly Mcneal
Place. Named in memory of Mike Stipic, the club’s chief steward for many years, the lounge is open to anyone of any age. Patrons can order a drink and a burger (regular, cheese, turkey or veggie) and take in the amazing view of San Francisco and the Golden Gate. The brief menu of inexpensive fare also includes hot dogs and sandwiches. The walls and ceiling are decorated with burgees of other yacht clubs brought back by
“A Lucky Magazine Favorite Boutique”
NEW FOR FALL: J Brand Jeans, Mint by Jodi Arnold, Gryphon, Catherine Malandrino, 12th Street by Cynthia Vincent, Charlotte Tarantola
and SO much more . . .
voyaging members, as well as with club memorabilia and photos of the club’s parade of commodores. The room holds an ornate pool table said to have once been in the guards’ break room on Alcatraz. Legend says the table made its way from the Rock to the Coast Guard in the mid-1960s and then to Fort Baker when the Coast Guard relocated its base there. Although membership is limited to active or retired military personnel, federal civil service workers and members of the Coast Guard Auxiliary, you needn’t be a member to enjoy the club’s facilities. But, says Jack Machun, a retired air force pilot and one of the club’s governing members, if you have a hankering to join the Coast Guard Auxiliary, doing so isn’t too difficult. “They augment the Coast Guard in patrolling the Bay,” he says. “And they require a security background check and dues, of course.” Parking at the club is easy and if you’re spending the day at the Discovery Museum, the yacht club is a short stroll—or stroller push—away.
The Details • PYC membership: 415.332.2319 • Catering and room rental: 415.456.3495 • Mike’s Place is open Fridays 4 p.m. to 9 p.m., Saturdays 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Sundays 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. • More information at presidioyachtclub.com
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
OPENING SEPTEMBER: M Clothing Danville 381 Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg 707.431.8738 8 Tamalpais Drive, Corte Madera 415.924.8891 402 Railroad Avenue, Danville 925.314.0911 www.martymclothing.com
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
59
F Y I B O O KS
What to Read This Season Clear your calendar. It’s going to be a busy fall. BY SAMANTHA BERRY
As the days get shorter, food gets heartier, rooms get a little cozier and books get Big and Important. Fall is the season when the publishers pull out the big guns. Tell-all Washington memoirs with multimillion-dollar advances? Check. Follow-up novels from bestselling authors? Check. Debut memoirs already awash in buzz? Check. Here are seven of the most anticipated books of the season. So put on a sweater, make some hot cocoa and get comfortable.
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Age of Turbulence: Adventures in a New World by Alan G reenspan (Penguin, $35, September) The inscrutable former Federal Reserve chairman can finally speak freely, and in this muchheralded memoir, which he claims to have written in the bathtub, he is frank indeed. From 9 / 1 1 to “ irrational ex uberance,” G reenspan covers it all in recounting the details of his decades at the helm of American money.
Bridge of Sighs by Richard Russo (Knopf, $27, September) Last time Richard Russo published a novel, he won a Pulitz er ( E mpire Falls, 2 002 ) . In his
Fall ‘07 Featuring Collections by:
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ies at this year’ s Book E x po America in New
…and many more of your favorite designers!
new work of fiction, he leaves small-town upstate New Y ork behind in favor of Venice, Italy.
Y ork City is that Bridge of Sighs is a sprawling, dense, wonderfully thoughtful novel. We would ex pect nothing less from Russo, who has proven himself to be one of our best contemporary literary voices.
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
16 main street tiburon p. 435 1916 w. getkoze.com open daily 11 am - 6 pm…friday’s til 9 pm
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
61
J o i n U s i n Tr a nsit ion Look Me in the Eye: My Life with Asperger’s
Find fresh
by John Elder Robison
Fall looks
(Crown, $26, September)
as well as
This is the moving, darkly funny story of grow-
everything
ing up with Asperger’s syndrome at a time when the diagnosis simply didn’t exist. A born
you’ll need
storyteller, Robison takes you inside the head of a boy whom teachers and other adults re-
for our
garded as “defective,” who could not make eye
Indian
contact or keep himself from blurting out non
Summer
sion to using people’s given names (he calls
sequiturs, and who still has a peculiar averhis wife “Unit Two”). He also provides a fascinating reverse angle on the younger brother he left at the mercy of their nutty parents— the boy who would later change his name to Augusten Burroughs and write the best-selling memoir Running with Scissors.
Run by Ann Patchett (HarperCollins, $26, September) The author of the beloved novel Bel Canto has said that all her fiction throws together an unlikely bunch of strangers and then observes how they interact, care for one another and form bonds. Her new novel is no exception. Run covers 24 hours in the life of the Doyle family. It begins on a snowy night when Bernard Doyle, a former mayor of Boston, and his two adopted sons, both African American, attend a lecture given by Jesse Jackson at Harvard. An argument and a car accident set in motion a series of events that change their
green apples
lives forever.
Tree of Smoke by Denis Johnson (FSG, $27, September) This is what a New York Times Book Review writer said of Denis Johnson: “Once Johnson
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MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
gets his hooks into you—it takes about two sentences—it’s pretty much impossible to stop
La Sede Bella European Fabrics, English & French Countr y Furniture
reading.” Tree of Smoke is Johnson’s Vietnam book—a story about human folly, loneliness, God and war all wrapped up in a gripping and beautifully rendered plot. It’s his first novel in nine years, and early word says it’s one for the ages.
Almost Moon by Alice Sebold (Little Brown, $25, October)
The Lovely Bones spent more than a year on the New York Times hardcover best seller list. “Sebold slips easily from the ordinary pleasures of a suburban childhood to moments of eerie beauty,” a New Yorker writer observed. “If in the end she reaches too far, the book remains a stunning achievement.” In her second novel, Sebold tells the story of an unstable woman who kills her dementia-ridden elderly mother. It’s a follow-up that has industry folks salivating with expectation.
Sick Girl by Amy Silverstein (Grove, $24, October) At 24, Amy Silverstein was your typical typeA law student: smart, driven, no time for illness—even one that caused her to black out and suffer temporary blindness. Being still so young, how could she have guessed her heart was about to give out? With grace and force, she chronicles her harrowing medical journey from initial misdiagnosis to astonishing and ongoing recovery, all coinciding with a romantic bedside courtship by her husband, Scott, and her uncompromising desire to become a mother. Her memoir presents a patient’s perspective that is moving, provocative and some-
535 San Anselmo Avenue, San Anselmo, CA 94960 Open Daily • 415.453.8200
times controversial.
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SEPTEMBER 2007
63
F Y I BUSINESS
LOVE (WITH HELP) IN MARIN
F
ace it: if you’re looking to pair up, be-
after hour sifting through page after page of
will dip into their Rolodex of thousands of eli-
ing single in Marin is hard. The local
profiles looking for Mr. or Ms. Right?
gible prospects. Their roster contains hundreds
dating scene often feels more like a
If lately your quest for someone to share
of Marin names, but with 10 offices stationed
convent (sorry, Sister) than a town overflow-
the rest of your life with (or at least an enjoy-
around the world — including Beverly Hills, New
ing with successful, athletic singles (like your-
able night out) is feeling more like a dead-end
York, Scottsdale, Stockholm and London — they
self). Those college friends who used to set
job, it may be time to break out the checkbook
can also do an international search of singles,
you up are now wrangling sippy cups, dirty
and try the high-priced yentas of Marin.
complete with ads in high-end glossies targeted
diapers and carpool schedules. Dating sites like
For a fee — starting at $6,500 and climb-
Match.com and eHarmony.com boast of
ing to six figures — Sausalito’s mother-daughter
Although founder Jill Kelleher, who started
success, but who really wants to spend hour
matchmaking company Kelleher & Associates
the company in Greenbrae almost 20 years ago,
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MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
to your specified demographic.
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
P H OTO: TIM P ORTER
Mother-daughter team directs fate with Cupid’s arrow BY SOMER FLAHERTY
calls the firm “ the best-kept secret in Marin,” Kelleher & Associates has received national television coverage from 2 0/ 2 0 and E ntertainment
Tonight, along with mentions in magaz ines like Us Weekly, Star and OK!—
no small feat for a
business in which discretion is the watchword and referrals can be limited. ( Satisfied customers may not want others to know their match made in heaven was in fact a pairing produced by conscious efforts here on earth.) Kelleher knows she’ s made a good match when the client stops calling her. “ I don’ t even get invited to some of the weddings,” she says. Kelleher’ s daughter, Amber Kelleher-Andrews, chief ex ecutive officer of the company, recalls a prospective client who was hesitant to use their services because he didn’ t think they could find him a high-caliber woman like his best friend’ s wife. “ What he didn’ t realiz e, and we couldn’ t tell him because of confidentiality,” says Kelleher-Andrews, “ was that his best friend had found his wife using our services but his best friend hadn’ t told him.” Kelleher’ s friend and makeup artist Pam Nichols laughs at the story. “ [ They’ ve] probably been responsible for 7 5 percent of the weddings in Marin,” she says. ( The company has had a hand in more than 400 weddings, all told, Kelleher estimates) . “ Y es,” says Kelleher-Andrews, who lives with her husband and three children in San G eronimo, “ basically everyone in Marin has been with us at one point or another —
and no
one knows.” OK, let’ s chalk that comment up to ex uberant hyperbole, but it’ s not an ex aggeration to say these two are passionate about their work. “ It’ s all about a personal approach,” KelleherAndrews says. “ Our clients, they’ re friends of ours. There’ s no number attached to them. We have the credibility and the best reputation and because of that, when people ask us who our competition is we say we have none.” None of this may have happened for the Kellehers had it not been for a chance job in the early ’ 8 0s. Jill Kelleher was working as a photographer at a well-known but not as highend dating service. The outgoing blonde still
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smiles as she remembers the day her boss asked all the employees to visualize and write out exactly what they wanted in life. Kelleher didn’t have to think long. She scribbled down her answer: a black Jaguar convertible she had seen in the parking lot and a dream house with views of the water. Years later Kelleher signed up her first client , a Greenbrae lawyer. “At our initial meeting he wrote me a check on the spot,” she says. Today, Kelleher is still signing up lawyers — and neurosurgeons and professional athletes and supermodels. She has her Strawberry home overlooking Richardson Bay, a Jag in the garage and a long-term relationship. But what drives successful, good-looking and felony-free singles to in some cases pay the price of a luxury car for a one-and-a-half-year matchmaking membership? Sometimes it’s just the opportunity for a few fun dates — with the hope it leads to lifelong happiness. A decade ago opportunity knocked for Debra Hall when the former Kelleher client received a phone call from Jill. “She said, ‘I’ve got a guy for you and he’s the one,’” recalls Hall. Ten years later, the Tiburon resident is still married, and although she notes there are no guarantees with the Kelleher service, she has nothing but praise. “I would have never met him if it weren’t for Jill. We were in two different environments with different friends; our paths would have never crossed. It’s like the Lotto: if you don’t play you don’t win; but if you do play you can win pretty big. You’re not going to meet anyone staying at home and that’s the bottom line.” Happily married (she refers to her relationship as a fairy tale), Hall says her husband is the nicest, kindest, smartest guy —and adorable. And while the definition of a fairy tale can vary, Kelleher does have standards a prospective client must meet. Almost all the males on the company roster have advanced academic degrees or have been vocationally successful on their own, and the female clients range from creative types like writers, designers and those in marketing to notable figures in the community or well-heeled divorcées. Still, an Ivy League diploma or a lofty pedigree
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won’t guarantee a spot on Kelleher’s list. And
five senses
the firm doesn’t accept alcoholics, drug users, smokers and overweight candidates because “they’re just too hard to match,” says Kelleher. For those who do make it past the gauntthe road to mated bliss can nonetheless have many forks. At Kelleher & Associates, it starts with a screening of potential partners according to the client’s specifications. Some of these
image: Ester Segarra
let of pre-interviews and background checks,
are very specific indeed. One recent male client, an avid golfer, “refused to be set up with a woman who didn’t have a handicap under 17,” Kelleher recalls. After the screening, introductions are made and continue for 18 months if necessary (if a match works out, the membership can be put on hold). The Kellehers fine-tune the search as they glean more information about a client’s nature and preferences. Being discreet — and a good businesswoman — Kelleher won’t disclose much about their pool of A-lister clients. But if the whispers are even half right, the list proves the notion of dating services as recourse for the desperately single is passé. It’s been reported that Jennifer
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Good luck guessing the identities of the Marin most-eligibles they serve, either; you’d have better odds at the tables in Vegas. You’ll need to be satisfied with the tantalizing morsels Kelleher hands out: an architect who enjoys spending time on his sailboat, bike riding and relaxing at his second home on Martha’s Vineyard; a tall and handsome Mill Valley surgeon, wine collector and fan of the symphony who’s looking forward to having a family; a midthirties Kentfield real estate de-
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veloper who likes snowboarding in Squaw, playing tennis, and traveling to Cabo San Lucas; and a rock climber (and Marin Catholic grad) whose home is in San Anselmo but who has lived and worked in Europe and Asia. It’s enough to make any mother (or happily married best friend) drool.
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F Y I A RT
ART AS THERAPY
It’s all about the process BY SAMANTHA BRONSON ost weekdays, San Rafael pschotherapist Shira Marin works with her clients, but every
M
Monday she turns the focus on herself by picking up a paintbrush. For two and a half hours, nothing else matters except what feelings are moving
through her right hand. What color do the feelings inspire her to use? What shape do they compel her to paint? When Marin is done, she adds the painting to a growing stack of previous ones. She has no plans to share them with the world. For her, the process of creation is what matters. “It needs to be an integral part of our lives if we want to live a healthy and balanced life,” she says. Art is not the exclusive purview of those talented (or well connected) enough to have their finished product displayed in galleries. Making art is a process that anyone, regardless of skill, can
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use to relax , to work through emotions, even to ex plore a different side of their personality. The creating itself is a path to personal fulfillment, tapping into something fundamentally human— the desire to ex press ourselves. Although Marin had always considered herself creative, she didn’ t fully embrace this potential until she attended a workshop with the Painting E x perience. Founded by Fairfax resident Stewart Cubley, the Painting E x perience is not your typical art school. Instead of emphasiz ing technique and ex pertise, workshops focus on self-ex ploration and ex pression through the process of painting. Participants are encouraged to listen to their imagination, to trust it and to paint what it inspires. E veryone benefits from this different way of approaching art, Cubley says, even those who have never picked up a paintbrush or who have never pictured themselves as artistic. “ It touches something that I feel is really core to everyone: a sense of their own greater potential. It’ s an about-face for people to unhook themselves from feeling like they have to perform or achieve or accomplish, and instead be in the moment.” That may seem like a stretch in a celebrity culture enamored of ex ternally defined success, but for people who do take a chance, fulfillment is its own reward. Take Cheryl Berger. Twelve years ago the Novato resident had a demanding job as a computer systems programmer and project manager. She never had any formal art training, yet she was enchanted when she saw a local ceramics show. Intrigued by the idea of creating something from nothing, she signed up for a weekly ceramics class at the Terra Linda Community Center, where she was encouraged to make anything she felt like. She was instantly hooked. Not only did she look forward to the evening class; she found herself so energiz ed afterward that it was hard to get to sleep. Her mind buz z ed with images of potential clay creations. She learned quickly to set aside her perfectionist tendencies and focus on the ex perience rather than the eventual product. Now retired, Berger creates ceramics in her home studio and still finds it a welcome outlet in her life.
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I don’t want to eat,” says Berger. “I love that feeling.” Even artists who earn their livings by their craft acknowledge there’s much more to their work than the pieces it creates. Mill Valley oil painter Eric Zener, for example, finds that whenever he’s away from his work, he looks after a vacation. “My wife always laughs because I’m always like, ‘I can’t wait to take a vacation,’ and then five days into it, I’m like, ‘I can’t wait to get back,’” he says. “I’m just really comfortable and at ease working on art that I like. The world just disappears.” For those with jobs that don’t involve art, creating something can fill a different need. Matthew Hymel has his hands full as Marin County Administrator and as the father of three kids under the age of 10. Yet in his free time he’ll head to the garage, dig out his painting supplies from among the kids’ sports equipment and back out the minivan to give himself room to work. “For me, it’s nice to do something that’s completely subjective and creative, and I just enjoy the process of doing that,” says Hymel. “It’s kind of a way to get away. It’s a lot more subjective than an activity like balancing the budget or something like that.” During especially busy times, Hymel’s art tends to be abstract, allowing him to focus less on the outcome than painting a portrait might require. Overall, he views painting as a chance to create something uniquely his:“I don’t get hung up on how good it is.” Belvedere resident Virginia Doyle, who has painted for 20 years, was forced to take a more relaxed approach to her painting when
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her eyesight deteriorated. About five years ago, she was diagnosed with macular degeneration. Back then her paintings were detailed, Impressionist-style works with intricate dots of color. As her vision further deteriorated, instead of of giving up painting, she changed her style. Her techniques now include collage and throwing paint on the canvas, sometimes in a way that clearly depicts objects such as flowers. Today, legally blind, Doyle cannot see out of one eye and can see only shapes and colors
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with the other. Yet her art has become both more rewarding for her and more successful in the eyes of others: Two galleries now display her work—the first time it’s ever been formally shown. “I think I’m looser; I let go,” says Doyle. “It’s freer and people see that form of art and they can relate to it. It isn’t so controlled.” Before, says Doyle, she painted out of fear—of not getting the end product just right, of failing. Now, however, she paints to enjoy what she calls the bliss of the process: “I think I’m having a lot more fun. I know I am.” That inherent fun is something children understand. They don’t worry whether they’re talented enough to try something new. They enjoy the creative process as much, if not more, than what they create. It’s as we get older that self-doubt and pursuit of perfection tend to stifle the creative spirit. “The challenge is to allow ourselves to feel curious, curious enough to try something, to be experimental,” says Marin. “It’s not about being a fine artist with work hanging in a museum. It’s about following a little seed, tending it and watching it grow into something amazing.”
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Finding Your Inner Creative Force THE PAINTING EXPERIENCE Workshops and retreats are held throughout the year in different locales. The next local retreat will be Oct. 5–7 in Tiburon. Details at 415.455.4682 or processarts.com SWEAT YOUR PRAYERS Classes that create art through movement, teaching participants to realize their potential through dance. Information available at sacredpractice.com/classes.lasso and movingcenterschool.com/dropin COMMUNITY CENTERS Many local centers offer a range of classes to inspire creativity, from ceramics to painting to music.
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F Y I A RT
Art From the Heart
Clockwise from upper left: Elliot Jung works on his art for up to seven hours a day; decorative chair created by Teresa Rodriguez; Piper Curtis specializes in textiles; close-up of textile; opposite page: A wall hanging,“Talking Stick,” by Andy Buchwald.
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MARIN’S DEVELOPMENTALLY DISABLED EXPRESS THEMSELVES CREATIVELY story jim wood photos tim porter
“MEET ELLIOT JUNG,” says Lisa Scandurra of
the Victory Center for Arts and Communications in San Anselmo. “He’s 72 going on 14.” She’s right. An eager teenager is exactly how Jung comes across. His eyes twinkle, he smiles constantly and no one could be more happy to shake your hand. “Elliot has an incredible attention span,” Scandurra says. “He’ll work intensely seven hours straight with his pastels and colored pencils.” Jung is in his “circle period,” Scandurra jokes. His paintings feature a series of threeinch circles, much like the way acclaimed pop artist Jim Dine uses repetitive hearts. And like Dine, Jung layers each piece with a variety of colors. He energetically scratches at the layers
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of paint with a variety of scraping tools to create subtle yet intriguing patterns. Unlike Dine, however, Jung has been de-
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velopmentally disabled since birth. His art is rarely seen by the public. “Well, that’s not entirely accurate,” says Scandurra, the center’s program manager. “Elliot’s work is regularly entered in the Marin County Fair. Often, he’s won. Also, he’s been shown in several Bay Area galleries.” Sitting next to Jung, in one of three lightfilled studios that the Victory Center keeps busy all week, is 43-year-old Andy Buchwald, a nonverbal artist born with the condition known as Down syndrome. Buchwald’s creations, called “Talking Sticks,” are much-in-demand, triballike wall hangings. “He’s an intuitive artist and has sold hundreds of them,” says Scandurra. “Each one is unique.” Before coming to the Victory Center more than 10 years ago, Buchwald was considered clinically destructive. “He would violently rip and tear at every piece of paper or fabric he was handed,” Scandurra says. But during an introductory period at the center, that compulsion was directed into creative expression. Buchwald now spends much of his day wrapping small tree branches with cloth remnants, ribbons and yarn, then adding colorful trinkets, beads and feathers. “Andy’s wall hangings now go for up to $800,” says Scandurra. “He’s our in-house celebrity.” The Victory Center is a program of The Cedars of Marin, a nearly 90-year-old nonprofit devoted to residential and day care for adults with developmental disabilities. Residential clients are housed on a serene tree-lined campus in Ross and in 10 family-style group homes throughout Marin. More than 150 clients are transported each weekday to programs such as the Victory Center or the Michele Ritter Textile Art Center, located on 21 acres in a canyon west of San Rafael. Inside the textile center, fortysomething Linda Stone works up to six hours a day at
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a wooden loom. “I love this, I love this,” she says. “I’ve been here eight years and if I didn’t love doing this, I’d quit.” Stone creates colorful and flawlessly constructed table runners and
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place mats. “This may look simple,” she says, “but it’s very difficult work.” Stone, like all of the weavers at the center, has a developmental disability. “However,
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despite the challenges life has presented,” says Connie Pelissero, the center’s director for 26 years, “they have become skilled at handweaving and are considered master weavers.” Pelissero agrees with Stone: weaving is challenging. “The pressure put on the beater bar must be consistent,” Pelissero points out. “Thread counts have to be accurate. Then there are foot pedals, harnesses, throws and blocks to deal with, plus the mathematical skills that are required.” (Products from the center—colorful woven tea towels, place mats, table runners and scarves—are sold at the CedarChest at 630 San Anselmo Avenue.)
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The atmosphere in the center is relaxed, creative and friendly. In the background is a constant clack of the wooden looms. Piper Curtis (“43 going on 44”) has been there weaving there since 1985. Her work is intricate and polished. Are you getting better at your craft, she is asked. “I think so. I hope so,” she says cheerily. “I love all the vibrant colors.” The weaver next to Curtis pipes up: “She’s good; she’s really good.” Curtis beams at the praise. Pelissero says the weavers enter their work in artistic competitions, including the county fair, that are open to all weavers, not just the developmentally disabled. “And frequently, we’ll win!”
ARTWORKS AVAILABLE Artworks created by clients of The Cedars of Marin will be available for purchase at La Vendemmia, a replica of the traditional Italian harvest celebration being held at the Mill Valley Community Center on Saturday, October 6. The evening will feature cocktails, dinner and entertainment by the renowned a cappella group Clockwork. There will be a silent
Robert H. Byers, MD David H. Goltz, MD John C. Keohane, MD Irina L. Melnik, MD Michael J. Oechsel, MD Ernest H. Sponzilli, MD Michael S. Stock, MD Charles A. Stuart, MD
auction of the paintings, weavings and objets d’art. For further information and tickets ($175 each), phone Stacia Culp at 415.526.1354.
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18 Bon Air Road, Larkspur 2 Bon Air Road, Suite 120, Larkspur • 415.927.5300
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F Y I CAUS E S
NAVIGATING THE ULTIMATE TRANSITION
D
eath is difficult not just for the
second-oldest program of its kind. It provides
days without the aid of Hospice by the Bay. He
dying, but for their loved ones
end-of-life care to about 250 patients from
began receiving hospice care on a Thursday at
as well. Life’s final days exact a
Marin, Sonoma and San Francisco. Patients
his home and died the following Wednesday.
physical, emotional and financial toll on all
typically have less than six months to live and
Within that time, the organization sent a coun-
concerned. For thousands of people, the tran-
have opted for treatment that alleviates suf-
selor to talk with Alison about the process of
sition has been made more comfortable, and
fering rather than attempts to cure. Care is
dying, had a nurse evaluate Bob, sent over
more dignified, through the efforts of Hospice
provided at the patient’s home, hospital or res-
supplies and medications and obtained a hos-
by the Bay.
idential facility. Working with a patient’s doc-
pital-style bed within a few hours. Bob wanted
“We’re really the river guide,” says Mary
tors, the organization provides medical and
to die at home, Alison says, and the hospice
Taverna (pictured above), president and CEO
nursing assistance as well as personal care,
team made that possible.
of the Larkspur nonprofit. “We’re there to sup-
counseling and spiritual support.
port them, to guide them if they run into rough waters, but it’s their journey.”
“To be able to know that a person is dy-
Such treatment can be profoundly helpful
ing and you don’t have to intervene and keep
for the patient’s families too. Mill Valley resi-
them alive when it’s time for them to go, and
Founded in 1975, Hospice by the Bay
dent Alison Shapiro says she could not have
to do it in a way that’s supervised, that’s an ex-
(formerly Hospice of Marin) is the nation’s
cared for her husband, Bob, during his last
traordinary service,” she says.
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P H OTO: BARBA RA R IE S
Hospice by the Bay provides guidance for families facing death BY SAMANTHA BRONSON
Like many others, Shapiro called Hospice by the Bay at a doctor’s suggestion when it became clear her husband was deteriorating rapidly. She wishes she had called sooner. Taverna hears that comment often, yet she understands why so many delay making the call. “People see it as defeat, as giving up hope. It’s not giving up hope. It’s redefining that hope.” Hospice care is a way to provide comfort and quality of life during a person’s journey toward death and may also offer the chance to explore unresolved personal or financial issues.
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Like other nonprofits, this one faces funding challenges. Medicare and many private health insurers pay for a portion of hospice care, but not always the full amount. And as a part of the health care delivery system, hospices are vulnerable to funding cuts. To make up the difference and be able to serve the un- and underinsured, Hospice by the Bay relies on donations and fundraising events like the upcoming Open Homes tour of Eichler houses. Financial hurdles aside, the organization has seen tremendous success in its 32 years— notably a wider acceptance of the hospice philosophy by medical professionals and society at large. When it began, Hospice by the Bay served one patient; today it employs the equivalent of 180 full-timers who have medical, nursing, social services and counseling skills. Yet its true success is intangible, Taverna says, measurable only in terms of the people it has served. “Of greater importance to me is that we have helped thousands of individuals get through a phase of life that is incredibly challenging.”
TOUR HOMES TO SUPPORT HOSPICE “Open Hearts Open Homes: Eichler Homes and Exotic Cars” features homes in Terra Linda and Lucas Valley; rare and unusual cars will also be on display. The event benefits Hospice by the Bay Foundation; September 15 and 16, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; $50 for one day, $80 both days. For tickets, call 415.526.5500.
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C O N V E R S AT I O N
JOSEPH LILLIS The man behind the madness of the Sausalito Art Festival BY MIMI TOWLE PHOTO BARBARA RIES
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E
ver since the 1800s, when painters crossed the bay from San Francisco on weekends to capture its waterfront beauty, Sausalito has been an artists’
town. On Labor Day in 1952, a group of artists created the Festival at Shell Beach, forerunner of today’s Sausalito Art Festival. As the festival grew, the community built Marinship Park as the event’s new home. For the past nine years, Joseph Lillis has been at the helm of what many now call the finest art festival in America. A third-generation native New Yorker, Lillis spent his high school years in Napa at time when tractors outnumbered Land Rovers and “school didn’t start until the prune crop was tended to,” he recalls. Yet he traces his love for the arts back to that time—specifically the evening of December 2, 1967: “After enduring a Napa High school rendition of Midsummer Night’s Dream, I attend-
ed the opening night party with the cast and crew. As an only child, I looked around the room and was awed by the support and sense of community.” Lillis decided he belonged with
be gorgeous
creative people who parlay their passions into vocations, and “I haven’t looked back.” His circuitous route to the Bay Area attests to that adventurous spirit. After high school, he dabbled in acting, doing summunity theater at University of the Pacific in Stockton; and wound up in New York producing plays. After producing more than a dozen Off Broadway shows, he got his shot “on” Broadway when he produced The Coolest Cat
in Town. “Unfortunately,” says Lillis, “it was a musical version of ‘Rip Van Winkle’ featuring an Elvis-like character who wakes up in the age of disco.” The show lasted five performances, and Lillis dropped the curtain on his theater career. He opened a cabaret on Times Square and scribbled out a Cole Porter revue called
Some Like It Cold that he hoped would fill the stage on off nights. Surprisingly, the show
bettina .
mer stock in Eugene, Oregon; studied com-
NOW OPEN IN MARIN 501 caledonia street sausalito ca 94965 415.331.3389 3615 sacramento street san francisco ca 94118 415.563.8002 www.bettinasf.com
ran for seven years in 150 cities and eventu-
photo by Cavan Clark
ally brought him back to the Bay Area, where
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he bought a home in Sausalito and settled into San Francisco’s theater scene. In 1999, Lillis got a call from Mike Stone of the Sausalito Art Festival Foundation board, asking him to interview for the job of festival executive director. Though it means he’s farther off Broadway than ever, he’s now producing an annual smash. This year it all starts Friday, August 31, with a black-tie affair where guests can mingle with artists; over the next three days, 40,000 people will attend the festival, with Lillis playing host in its midst. We caught up with him in Marin to talk about how it all works. Who owns the Sausalito Art Festival? It’s had many producers over its 55-year his-
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tory. For decades, the Sausalito Chamber of Commerce has owned the festival. Since 2000, the nonprofit Sausalito Art Festival Foundation has licensed the festival from the chamber. The foundation has negotiated a purchase of
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the festival starting with the 2008 show.
(415) 945-8863 • Across from Book Passage How is the city of Sausalito involved? Former mayor Robin Sweeny has chaired the “Mayor’s Blue-Ribbon Select Garbage Committee,” which picks up garbage, since she was on the city council. She continues to gather current and former members of the council (as well as other Marin mayors and politicians) as the core of a very effective recycling program. Benefits to the city include sales tax (both at the festival and the boost in sales citywide), business license fees and parking income. Why Marinship Park? Having been built from a junkyard by the Chamber of Commerce, Lions Club and the Rotary Club, the Marinship Park has been a great asset to the festival. It provides us hundreds of feet of waterfront exposure and a terrific pier, providing a great promenade and the opportunity to bring the Blue & Gold ferries right to the festival. How are the artists selected? We get around 1,200 applications a year for 270
467 magnolia avenue, larkspur, ca 94939 415.924.2500
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spots. Besides a few dozen spaces we reserve
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for award winners from the previous year and jury members, the bulk of the ex hibitors are chosen by a peer jury using a point system and blind submissions. E ach Labor Day, the artists elect the jurors who choose the artists for the nex t year. There are 1 4 categories: 2 -D mix ed media, 3 -D mix ed media, ceramics, drawing, fiber, functional art, glass, jewelry, painting, photography, printmaking, sculpture, watercolor and woodwork. The jurors view 6 ,000 slides over the first weekend in April. To ensure a good home team showing, we give a one-point advantage to all Sausalito artists. How many artists from Marin are usually in the show? Because of the jury system, every year is different. This year, it’ s about 3 0. The one thing they have in common is that they are immediately recogniz able. Y ou know a Tom Killion when you see it. His style is so unique it is instantly memorable. Tom
55 Throckmorton Ave., Mill Valley 415-380-0880 www.alixandcompany.com
G ehrig has so many elements in his dreamlike visions that you just have to linger with them. Many of Mark Keller’ s paintings involve music and you can almost listen to them. Sometimes the distinguishing factor is an
Kay Celine
original technique like Debra Maddox ’ s photopaintings or the use of color, as with the work of Michael Leu’ s. E ven in the fiber category, Arlene Wohl’ s work involves such distinctive weaving, and Juline Beier’ s painted silks are as identifiable as a Picasso. Would you recommend participation in the Sausalito Art Festival to new artists? If the work is wonderful and the artist is prolific, yes. The challenge is to have enough inventory and present a professional image. Our booth fees can be quadruple of what other shows charge ( starting at $ 9 5 0) , but our average sales are 1 0 times those of other events. The other costs are often far greater. Food, lodging, and especially transportation get more ex pensive every year. Some of our regulars from the E ast Coast didn’ t apply because of the cost of gas. But great sales easily compensate— that’ s why
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artists come here from Australia, Argentina and Turkey. An attractive booth and an air of friendly confidence will bring buyers in to see
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the work. If the art speaks to the collector, experience is irrelevant. Why do you do this? While the event itself is the highlight of my year, I also love playing Santa Claus. All proceeds from the festival go
Frames & Mirrors
to Sausalito charities. By the end of the year, we have to give all the money away. Whether it’s the Sausalito Woman’s Club scholarship fund or the Sausalito Dog Park, it’s a great reason to stick with a job. In addition, a dozen or more local nonprofits get most of their yearly income from operating food booths, and the Rotary Club, responsible for all the parking lots, has earned seed money to fund two senior housing projects. Our biggest contribution has been to Sausalito schools. In the last few years we have been able to donate over $100,000 to underwrite arts programs.
How many more Labor Day Weekends do you see yourself driving the grounds in your official golf cart? It’s funny: after my first show, at a celebration on Monday night as the artists were still packing up, Mike Stone said to me, “You’re the best executive director ever! What would keep you another five years?” Honestly, the only thing that came to mind was, “Shoot me!” My passion for this event has only grown. We bought a house two blocks from the festival grounds. We have 28 years left on the mortgage. Is that a good enough answer?
What is your favorite part of the festival? Being the first to arrive before dawn and
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watch the sunrise over the bay. Sitting on my golf cart, sipping my coffee and surveying our temporary Disneyland is just the best.
What do you do during the second week of September? There is no rest for the weary. I’m back at the site at dawn on Tuesday morning to inspect the progress of dismantling the weekend wonderland. It takes a couple of weeks to put everything “back in the box” and work with
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Bank of the West to make sure all the income is properly accounted for. My last duty before taking a break is a big volunteer appreciation party.
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Then I rush to the airport to catch a cruise ship to somewhere I’ve never been. Daily tickets for the festival are $20, with discounts for seniors and children; a weekend pass for three days is $30. Opening-night gala tickets start at $175. For more information, go to sausalitoartfestival.org.
THIS YEAR’S ARTISTS FROM SAUSALITO: Chris Adessa,
Cornelia Goldsmith, Mark Keller, E. Loren Soderberg, John Gunther Musaus, George Sumner, Joanne Fox, Juline Beier, and Kay Carlson. ALSO FROM MARIN: Marne Jaye, Heidi
Hornberger, Debra Maddox, Arlene Wohl, Maureen Ellis, and Michael Leu. FIRST-PLACE WINNERS RETURNING
are Sausalito’s Tom Gehrig (2-D mixed media), Cathy Rose from New Orleans (3-D mixed media), Leslie Thomas of Oakview, California (ceramics), Sue Ogilvie of Port Hadlock, Washington (drawing), Prince DuncanWilliams of Henderson, Nevada (fiber), Stephen V. O’Meara of Scottsdale, Arizona (functional art), Ruben Fasani of Buenos Aires, Argentina (glass),
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Marya Dabrowski of Pawtucket, Rhode Island (jewelry), Dan Fogel of Tempe, Arizona (painting), San Franciscan Chris Honeysett (photography), Tom Killion of Point Reyes Station (printmaking), Theodore Gall of Ojai, California
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(sculpture), and M. Dale Chase of Penn Valley, California (woodwork). INTERNATIONAL ARTISTS RETURNING
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Fallahi from Iran (painting), Carol S. Francois Brahin from France (painting), Gultan Imamoglu from Turkey and Israeli Yoram Gal (watercolor).
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H OME
PARADISE
FOUND 84
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SEPTEMBER 2007
Villa with a view in Tiburon is dream home for family who enjoys the beach life in style. BY P. J . B R E M I ER P H OTO S BAR BAR A R I E S
Caption here; yes a caption will occupy this space and you must write it— a caption will occupy this space.
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A
rchitect Greg Johnson is accustomed to
Initially she was worried a big home might lack a sense
creating beautiful residences in special
of intimacy, but was pleasantly surprised to discover that
places, whether here in Marin, on the
each room in the 6,500-square-foot residence, built by Graves
eastern seaboard or in exotic locales such
Construction, “is well-positioned, warm and inviting.”
as Croatia and Grand Cayman Island. Of all Johnson’s creations, perhaps
co walls, deep-set windows and doors, carved wood corbels
none has been so challenging as the home he designed for the
along the eaves, elegant arches, and a number of round-edged
Landis family in his own backyard of Tiburon. Situated on a
interior walls—helped achieve that goal. “When I design a
sloping acre just off Paradise Drive, it has everything a dream-
home in this style, I look to historical elements for inspiration
site checklist should—room for a large home, privacy from
and try to adapt those to our current period,” Johnson says. “I
neighbors, trees and water views, and an enviable 100-foot-
love the way thick walls with deeply inset windows and doors
long stretch of secluded beach.
create unique shadow lines on the building and the way the
That sealed the deal for Scott Landis, head of a telecommu-
mahogany windows and doors against the sepia tones of the
nications company, and his wife, Camille, a biotech executive,
stucco create a balanced contrast and ‘punch’ on the facade.”
when they first saw the property and the existing home, a 4,000-
In collaboration with the Landises and their San Francisco
square-foot converted barge, six years ago. “The barge was rot-
interior designer, Lisa Arrowood, Johnson specified smooth
ting and falling apart, but we immediately fell in love with the
plaster for the walls, cool limestone for the floors in the hall-
spot because of the beach and the protected cove,” Scott says.
ways and formal rooms, and warm walnut hardwood flooring
Removing the barge was the small hurdle; selecting an on-
Throughout, the house has extravagant bay views punc-
“With a site so close to the water and with numerous governing
tuated with the silvery span of the Richmond–San Rafael
agencies involved,” says Landis (these included the county of
Bridge—the living room windows offering the most striking
Marin and the Bay Conservation and Development Commission),
perspective. Immediately seen from the foyer, this room “was
“we had to balance many factors, such as the height of the build-
intended to [establish] the drama of the home and the site,”
ing, impacts on the beach, cutting into the hillside and trying to
Johnson says, “and to really create that initial burst of excite-
work out a solution that satisfied all parties concerned.”
ment as one enters.”
Once those issues were addressed, Johnson set out to de-
The bay is visible from every living space, “and every day
sign the home the Landises desired. For Scott, that meant a
we have a different scene—ships, sailboats, fishing boats, kay-
Mediterranean-style dwelling that took advantage of the views.
aks and seals,” Scott says. “We’ve even seen gray and hump-
For Camille, it meant “a place that would be great for entertain-
back whales since we’ve been here.”
has a two-year-old son and is expecting another child soon).
MARIN
for the bedrooms, kitchen and family room.
site building location that pleased everyone was more difficult.
ing and could grow with us as our family grows” (the couple
86
Traditional details—clay-barrel tile roofing, thick stuc-
SEPTEMBER 2007
The open-plan kitchen and family room also capitalizes on the views. Whether seen from the family room’s comfortable
PAGE 84: Scott Landis comes back from a short bay cruise in his inflatable dinghy. OPPOSITE PAGE FROM LEFT: Living room is inspiring location for playing the piano; Camille Landis and son, James. THIS PAGE: front entry from garage.
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sofa or from farther back at the kitchen counters, the view is king and the spaces respect it. A mudroom and pantry placed against the kitchen’s back wall provide hidden storage and a clean-lined, clutter-free space. Family meals take place in the casual breakfast nook, but when guests come they’re treated to wide water vistas from the coffered-ceiling dining room. An office, near the activity hub of the main floor, is still far enough away for uninterrupted work. The master bedroom suite, just a few steps farther, is a peaceful retreat. Johnson designed a graceful, curved staircase to connect the main floor with the lower one, positioning the wine cellar and laundry room along the home’s back wall in order to keep the water-side length of the house free for a pair of bedrooms and bathrooms, guest suite and game room. Three sets of French doors in the game room open directly onto a terrace that holds an infinity-edge pool and hot tub. Beyond is the beach, where gentle waves lap the shore and seabirds flock in formation in the distance. Here the family looks for shells, launches small boats or tosses rocks into the surf.
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Brad Eigsti, of Imprints Landscape Architecture in Muir Beach, used architecturally appropriate plantings of bougainvillea, palm trees, cycads and lavender near the house, but chose rugged hearty plants — agave, phormium, westringia and bold splashes of purple ice plant — for the space along the water’s edge. Integrating all aspects of the landscape with the house was essential to Johnson, so balconies off the upper-level rooms visually link, rather than merely overlook, the pool terrace and beach. He also designed a lower-level loggia, “a cozy outdoor space where the sunlight creates unique shadows on that space throughout the day.” Johnson is pleased with the results of his balancing act. A home that both embraces its surroundings and invites its occupants to move easily between the two demands more than just good design, he points out; “it requires a good listener who is able to reconcile a range of issues involved in home design. But when you get a call from your client saying how much they love their home, then you know you have achieved one of the
OPPOSITE PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM LOWER: Circular stairway ties lower level with living spaces upstairs at entry level; glass panel doors in recreation room lead out to pool and patio; kitchen is adjacent to large family room. THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM UPPER: Family room contains seating to enjoy the view; architect Greg Johnson; infinity pool with spa is focal point for entertaining.
most wonderful opportunities afforded to an architect.”
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TEAM
TRAINING FOR THE OLYMPICS IN NICASIO
CINNAMON
On an early summer morning at Edgewood, a 60-acre farm on Nicasio Valley Road devoted to training and breeding performance STORY P. J. BREMIER PHOTOS TIM PORTER
horses, a slim, handsome rider lifts himself onto an equally handsome mount.They move together with ease. Mariano Alario’s body is relaxed, his tanned arms lightly holding the bridle’s reins. Cinnamon 005’s neck is elegantly arched and held high as he steps carefully, mincingly almost, into the sandy exercise arena.
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L I FE
OPPOSITE PAGE: Mariano Alario
and Cinnamon go through their paces in preparation for jumping competition. THIS PAGE: Horse and rider get ready to start the day. MARIN
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“He’s a super athlete with a big heart,” says veteran trainer Bob Walker. “He’s got to have that because he’s got to be brave… to handle wide jumps and do Mariano Alario and Cinnamon jump over fence at recent competition. OPPOSITE: Grooming is part of daily regime.
them one right a er the other.”
Moments before, Alario, neatly but casually dressed, had briskly
cial to their progress as a team. “There has to be a chemistry between
brushed his dark riding boots on a patio outside the low-slung putty-
them,” Hersh says of the two newcomers to the valley and to each oth-
colored barn and donned a pair of black gloves.
er. “They really have to develop a relationship.”
Inside, Cinnamon stood patiently, being groomed. A pair of young
Top-level equestrian jumping is an exhilarating sport wherein com-
dogs wrestled in the breezeway and the pulsing beat of norteño music, a
posed fearlessness, controlled speed, supreme athleticism and impos-
favorite of the Mexican stable hands, wafted in from a dusty boom box.
sible grace meet in midair when man and horse, communicating swiftly
Like the seductive tango dancers of Alario’s native Argentina, the
and silently, soar as one. That unity only comes with time together.
professional show jumper and his equine partner primp and prepare for
Hersh, a crisp-spoken San Francisco personal-injury attorney, has
their own interspecies version of intense synchronized dance. Today, the
developed her own chemistry with horses. She began riding as a child
workout is easy: an escalation from walk to trot to canter performed in
on a neighbor’s horses. Three years ago, Hersh bought Edgewood with
small loops and larger circles within the arena.
her husband, Joe Boyle, her law-firm partner Mark Burton, and his
A bystander unfamiliar with the equestrian world might mistake it
wife, Robyn, and hence can now fully indulge her passion for hors-
for a mindless exercise instead of the active effort of concentration that
es, the ones she rides western-style for pleasure or a special one, like
Cinnamon’s owner and Alario’s employer, Nancy Hersh, knows is cru-
Cinnamon, that Alario rides.
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Alario dismisses any romantic notion of chemistry, even when
we start a course. We have to work on the control. You cannot be the
it comes to Cinnamon, a tall (7 feet, hoof to head) German-born
strongest man in the world, right? The horses are stronger than you so
Holsteiner that he hopes will take him to the prestigious World Cup in
you have to have control.”
Stockholm this year and the summer Olympics in Beijing next year.
This insight comes from a lifetime of riding. His father, Oscar Alario,
“No, it’s not chemistry; you just have to understand each other,” he
a lawyer who ran an insurance company in the seaside resort town of
says, his English softened with the rolling vowels of his home country.
Mar del Plata, far from Argentina’s equitation center of Buenos Aires,
“You see that mare over there?” He gestures to a dark bay being rid-
would leave work every afternoon for the Club Hipico Mar Del Plata to
den by Edgewood’s veteran trainer, Bob Walker. “Bob’s trying to figure
teach show jumping to Mariano and other students.
out why she’s resisting him. You have to know what the horse is think-
“We’re crazy people for horses,” says Alario, now 29, breaking into
ing and then think [for instance], ‘Maybe if I use my right leg more, it
a boyish smile as he tells of his father’s obsession for everything gau-
would be better.’”
cho—the iconic cowboy of Argentina. “It’s always been 100 percent
A rider’s relationship with a horse, he adds, is built on trust and
horses for me. I’ve never done another sport.”
respect. “Cinnamon’s 10 years old,” he says, shrugging. “At this point,
At 15, Alario was jumping in Grand Prix classes, the highest level in
I can’t change his technique, but I can make him nice and soft before
the competitive riding world, and had taken over teaching his father’s
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
93
roster of students. He graduated from
United States. Alario’s fiancée, Nina
college, but gave up law school after
Herrera, a head trainer at Edgewood,
a year to focus on his show-jumping
says her husband-to-be is “under a lot
career. In 1999, he moved to Spain,
of pressure to perform well here and
jumping there for two years ago before
to show Argentina what he’s got.”
coming to the United States. Two years
Serious training begins next
ago, he represented Argentina in the
month when Alario and Cinnamon
World Cup, something he’s determined
travel to Southern California for the
to do again this time on Cinnamon.
first six World Cup qualifiers. They’ll
That would be a dream realized
then fly to Argentina—Alario by com-
for Hersh. “We were so lucky to find
mercial airline and Cinnamon by
Cinnamon,” she says. “We were look-
Federal Express—for more competi-
ing for a horse for Mariano when we
tion, and next to Southern California
got a call that Cinnamon was for sale
for the final six qualifiers in February
and if we didn’t act right away, he was
and March. In April, the World Cup
going to Europe. Bob and Mariano
trials are held in Stockholm.
hopped on the next plane (to Virginia)
“If he does well there, it’s a huge
and that was it.”
plus for his chances in getting on the
That was last November. Hersh
Olympic team,” Herrera says. “If you
won’t say how much she paid for Cinnamon, but does say she’s been
have success at the World Cup against Nancy Hersh considers her good fortune in finding Cinnamon.
offered three times that purchase price. Horses of this caliber can easily cost a million dollars or more. It’s an
competitors from major countries, you’re among the best. There are
probably only 100 riders who are even capable of attempting it.”
expensive sport, and because he’s a gelding, Cinnamon can’t recoup
In Grand Prix show jumping, rider and horse must clear at least 15
his costs through stud fees. He needs to pay his way with prize money
different types of hurdles: singles, combinations, and water jumps—
won on the show circuit.
some as high as five feet and as wide as six. They have less than two
Physically, Cinnamon has what it takes—a deep chest, strong,
minutes to complete the circuit. Mistakes bring penalties. “You don’t
rounded knees, a well-developed back, muscular hindquarters and legs.
have time to think between the jumps,” Alario says. “You only have
Three years younger than most other horses at his level, he’s already
time to regroup your horse and think about jumping the next jump
been a top East Coast and European competitor. “There’s not another
perfectly.”
horse in Marin who can do the Grand Prix–Olympic-level jumping that
Alario will know by June if they qualify for the Olympics. If they do,
he can,” Hersh says, “and there’s only a handful that can do it on the
Alario and Cinnamon will meet their toughest competitors—Europeans
West Coast.”
who routinely ride on courses more challenging than those in the
Cinnamon is just one of 35 horses at Edgewood, but he “knows
United States—and jump on five demanding courses over three days.
he’s special,” says Hersh. “He’s the king and he gets preferential treat-
In the meantime, Cinnamon has to stay healthy. “Keeping horses
ment.” That includes custom-fitted tack, first dibs on the best pasture
sound on the road and asking them to do something that’s not natu-
and daily pampering.
ral—jumping big jumps with their big bodies on skinny legs and little
If Cinnamon is spoiled, however, he doesn’t show it. Under Alario’s
feet—is a lot of wear and tear on them,” says Walker.
guidance, he works with a gentle earnestness. “He’s a super athlete
To minimize injury, Cinnamon cross-trains—a mixture of flat/
with a big heart,” says Walker. “He’s got to have that because he’s got
ground work, trail-riding, gymnastics and low-jumping. “We don’t
to be brave. He also has to have scope and the elasticity in his body to
overdo it,” says Walker. “Those big efforts are hard on the horses and
handle wide jumps and do them one right after the other.”
the more you push them, the more the chances of breaking them.”
Alario and Cinnamon are not Olympic shoo-ins, even in Argentina, where there is less competition for the equestrian team than in the
94
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For Walker, the goal is developing a Grand Prix horse. “The Olympics would just be icing on the cake.”
Cinnamon is just one of 35 horses at Edgewood, but he “knows he’s special,” says owner Nancy Hersh. “He’s the king and he gets preferential treatment.”
FA L L
FA S H I ON
PHOTOS SASHA GULISH STYLIST PEGGI JEUNG / ARTIST UNTIED ART DIRECTOR ANNE WALZER EDITOR SOMER FLAHERTY HAIR & MAKEUP SHERRIE LONG/ARTIST UNTIED MODELS KRIS / LOOK MODEL AGENCY, TATSIANA / JE MODEL MANAGEMENT SHOT ON LOCATION AT EDGEWOOD FARM IN NICASIO
On Kris Royal violet strapless taffeta gown, $8,300 at Lily Samii (SF) 415.445.9505. Oversize emerald ring byJanet Alix, $8,000 at Alix and Co. (Mill Valley) 415.380.0880. Watermelon tourmaline earrings and rose gold hoops by Janet Alix, $1,485 and $600 at Alix and Co. (Mill Valley).
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FA S H I O N TA K E S T H E R E I N S
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On Tatsiana Dress by Marc by Marc Jacobs, $398 at Macy’s (Corte Madera) 415.927.3333. Austin Boots by Frye, $270 at the Frye Company, 800.826.3793. On Kris Dress by Moschino, $420 at Macy’s (Corte Madera). Gwendoline hat by Helen Kaminski, $180 at Neiman Marcus (SF) 415.362.3900. Veronica Shortie Boots by Frye, $268 at the Frye Company.
On Jasmine Oval diamond bangle bracelet by Simayof, $13,300 at Simayof (SF) 415.391.0152. Round diamond bangle bracelet by Simayof, $4,200 at Simayof (SF). Skirt by Nanette Lepore, $295 at Neiman Marcus (SF) 415.362.3900. Jil Sander shoes, $425 at Gimme Shoes (SF) 415.434.9242. Luggage by Goyard (SF) 415.398.1110.
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On Tatsiana Dress by Level 99, $149 at Ko’ze (Tiburon) 415.435.1916. Snakeskin clutch by KoTur, $429 at Number 5 (Ross) 415.925.9555. Sapphire necklace by Simayof, $49,688 at Simayof (SF) 415.391.0152. Sapphire bracelet by Simayof, $31,2150 at Simayof (SF). Boots by Moschino, $535 at Macy’s (Corte Madera) 415.927.3333.
On Jasmine Shade hat by Trina Turk, $116 at Pearl (Larkspur) 415.464.1808. Sunglasses by Oliver Peoples, call for price at Rims and Goggles (Mill Valley) 415.383.9480. Torque Cachalong wide bangle by Frank Gehry, $1,300 at Tiffany & Co. (SF) 415.781.7000. Palmas dress by Trina Turk, $248 at M Clothing (Corte Madera) 415.924.8891. On Mochi Fish bracelet by Frank Gehry, $2,750 at Tiffany & Co. (SF).
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On Tatsiana Dress by Norma Kamali for Everlast, $395 at Betty Ann (Novato) 415.892.2255. Jacket by Etro, $2,465 at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF) 415.986.4300. Boots by Marc Jacobs, $695 at Macy’s (Corte Madera) 415.927.3333. Belt, $148 at M Clothing (Corte Madera) 415.924.8891. Von Tease hat by Mill Valley Hat Box, $515 at Mill Valley Hat Box (Mill Valley) 415.383.2757. Large Lily Spray pin by Mill Valley Hat Box, $300 at Mill Valley Hat Box (Mill Valley).
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On Kris Dress by Barneys , $850 at Barneys (SF) 888.222.7639. Shoes by Tory Burch, $225 at Item Shoes (Larkspur) 415.925.0109. Fleurette hat by Mill Valley Hat Box, $225 at Mill Valley Hat Box (Mill Valley).
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On Kris Blouse by TSE, $295 at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF) 415.986.4300. Cropped jacket by Carolina Herrera, $1,990 at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF). Pants by Level 99, $99 at Ko’ze (Tiburon) 415.435.1916. Belt by Streets Ahead, $140 at Green Apples (Sausalito) 415.331.8227. Earrings by Roberto Coin, $1,320 at Julianna’s Fine Jewelry (Corte Madera) 415.924.9711. Boots are stylist’s own. On Tatsiana Blouse by Brunello Cucinelli, $570 at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF). Blazer by Margaret O’Leary, $180 at Margaret O’Leary (Mill Valley) 415.388.2390. Pants by Marc by Marc Jacobs, $198 at Macy’s (Corte Madera) 415.927.3333. Boots are stylist’s own. Opposite page on Tabitha Gold and platinum pendant necklace by Janet Alix, $17,000 at Alix and Co. (Mill Valley) 415.380.0880.
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Opposite page top, on Tatsiana Reversible dress and skirt by Haat, $880 at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF) 415.986.4300. Silk scarf by Isda and Co., stylist’s own. Austin Boots by Frye, $270 at the Frye Company, 800.826.3793. Diamond watch by Omega, $10,000 at Julianna’s Fine Jewelry (Corte Madera) 415.924.9711. Opposite page bottom, on Tatsiana Dress by Adam Jones, $1,085 at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF). Belt by Vince, $145 at Green Apples (Sausalito) 415.331.8227. Naomi shoes by Anyi Lu, $395 at Catherine Jane (Mill Valley) 415.381.1255. Bracelet by Alix and Co., $6,500 at Alix and Co. (Mill Valley) 415.380.0880. This page, on Kris Dress by Jean Paul Gaultier, $560 at Saks Fifth Avenue (SF). Hat by The Mill Valley Hat Box, $385 at the Mill Valley Hat Box (Mill Valley) 415.383.2757. Veronica Shortie Boots by Frye, $268 at the Frye Company.
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Opposite page on Kris Dress by Milly $403 at Kismet (San Anselmo) 415.454.2629. Cashmere coat by Isda and Co., $446 at Isda and Co. (SF) 415.512.0313. Pearl cluster necklace by Alix and Co., $920 at Alix and Co. (Mill Valley) 415.380.0880. Rose hoop earrings by Alix and Co., $600 at Alix and Co. (Mill Valley). This page on Kris Blouse by Marc by Marc Jacobs, $248 at Macy’s (Corte Madera) 415.927.3333. Vest by Marc Jacobs, $525 at Neiman Marcus (SF) 415.362.3900. Pants by Margaret O’Leary, $286 at Margaret O’Leary (Mill Valley) 415.388.2390. Belt by Streets Ahead, $85 at Green Apples (Sausalito) 415.331.8227. Rubilite and Diamond ring by Simayof, $15,950 at Simayof (SF) 415.391.0152. Drop earrings by Alix and Co., $1,400 at Alix and Co. (Mill Valley).
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J O U R NEY
THIS PAGE: Habituated juvenile lowland gorilla, Dzangha-Sangha Reserve, Central African Republic. OPPOSITE: Wild juvenile lowland gorilla, Dzanga-Sangha Reserve. 110
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“ SPEAKS THE JUNGLE Finding the soul of Africa inside the heart of darkness STORY & PHOTOS ALISSA EVERETT
D
eep in the Central African jungle, lowland gorillas dwell peacefully with inhabitants of the forest. Chimpanzee and leopard, elephant and pygmy wander through one of the largest and least-explored regions of tropical forest in the world. Here, in the Congo Basin, is a place that has long conjured exotic images of cannibalistic tribes, devastating plagues and
ferocious creatures, a jungle forever saddled with Conrad’s moniker “heart of darkness.”
Crouched silently, I hold my breath while sweat dampens my back and mosquitoes feast on my ankles. In the stillness, I sense the hum of insects and feel the sting of thorny scratches on my arms. Suddenly, a branch cracks. Someone — or something — is nearby. I duck lower. A dark shape moves. A primal scent of musk and power fills my senses, and he emerges.
”
Despite recent marketing efforts by the tourism industry, the Congo Basin is still one of the world’s best-kept wildlife secrets. It covers 470 million acres of pristine rain forest in Cameroon, Central African Republic, Congo and Gabon and is home to the world’s largest populations of lowland gorilla, chimpanzee, bonobo and forest elephant. Lowland gorillas represent nearly 90 percent of the world’s gorilla population, but little is known about them compared to the fame heaped on their better-known cousin, the mountain gorilla. Civil wars and coups have sheltered lowland gorillas from the outside world and kept their habitat relatively intact. However, as Central Africa is developed, human encroachment takes its toll. Deforestation, road construction and slash-and-burn farming have already wiped out almost 90 percent of Central Africa’s rain forests and are threatening the species that long dwelled within. Conservation groups such as the World Wildlife Foundation are working with local governments to create protected areas and learn more about these great apes. The Dzanga-Sangha Reserve in the Central African Republic and Nouabale-Ndoki National Park in Congo are two such areas, and Dzanga-Sangha now hosts the first group of lowland gorillas habituated for tourism. It was to see these enigmatic gorillas that I traveled hundreds of miles into the depths of the Congo rain forest. Long fascinated by African wildlife, I was determined to come face to face with a giant silverback.
MARIN
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111
“
As we claw our way through the bush and bramble, insects climb aboard for a ride — and a meal. I have ants in my hair and on my legs. One bites painfully. I squelch a yell and rip it from my arm. It does not come off Canada’s VIA Railways transits from easily; Central Prince Rupert to Edmonton. Signage in Prince Rupert African ants are Airport; biking in Jasper National Park; golf pitbulls —Park they course at Fairmont’s Jasper Lodge. bite and they don’t let go. ABOVE
BELOW FROM LEFT
”
I am bound for the rain forest by bush plane. My companions aboard the two-hour fl ight from Douala, Cameroon, are E uropean tour operators in search of novel ex peditions to challenge their well-heeled clients. With gorilla-mania much in vogue, many adventurous travelers have already seen the mountain gorillas and are looking for the nex t big thing. Little do we know that the Congo Basin will present us with so much more than gorillas. After landing, we weave through the jungle on a narrow red dirt road, our old pickup bumping over washouts and puddles from rainstorms past. We reach a barbed wire fence marking our arrival at the World Wildlife Fund’ s Bihokou Camp. Decorative rows of rusted tin cans protect the camp from curious elephants. Chloe, the head researcher, greets us enthusiastically and radios the BaAka pygmy guides. “ We have made contact with the group,” she tells us. “ The gorillas are quite far away. We better get going.” Instantly, two tiny men appear from the forest. I fall in step behind the first, David. The forest is cool and dry. A stand of mahogany and other hardwoods has deposited a leafy residue on the trail. We walk downhill with quiet footsteps to the first clearing and enter carefully. There are two bull elephants only a few hundred yards away. From ground level, especially on foot, elephants look very different. E ven at this distance, their sheer mass is intimidating. They lift their heads and we freez e. Statistics run through my head: a full-grown male can weigh up to three tons and can run at 1 5 miles per hour. Despite their poor eyesight, forest elephants can sense motion and hear the beating of a terrified tourist’ s heart for miles. Chloe whispers a story about one of her researchers who was charged and gored in this very forest six months earlier. The woman lost her glasses while running from the elephant, then stumbled and fell. The elephant pinned her, piercing her hamstring with its tusk, before Chloe managed to whack it on the ear and scare it away. G reat, I think. The elephants resume drinking and the BaAkas motion for us to move forward. We walk along the forest edge through a swampy area of deep muddy elephant footprints, piles of grassy feces and a small river. No one takes his or her eyes off the elephants. The going gets tougher. A tangle of low branches and ankle-twisting vines snag and tear at our pant legs. The canopy overhead is thick, blocking the sun. Stray shafts of light penetrate, reaching the fl oor in white stripes that provide stark contrast to the dark greens and browns of the shade. David darts over and under branches, his 5 feet 4 inches perfectly adapted to this environment. At 5 -foot-9 , I am constantly bobbing and weaving to avoid the sharp branches and thorny brush. U nfamiliar scents hang in pockets at each turn of the trail. Some are pleasant— fl owers, forest garlic. Others are musky and dank— animal urine and ( Chloe confirms) the distinct heavy smell of a silverback male. Sounds are amplified. The crunch of a leaf underfoot crackles sharply. The mind wanders naturally, and uncomfortably, to what is hidden beyond each bend. David begins making a clucking noise, a sign that we are nearing the group of gorillas. He is letting the silverback know we are approaching. We creep forward to where two other BaAkas are waiting. They point through the underbrush and whisper, “ He is there.” In the shadows, a large figure moves slowly. I catch the gleam of an eye, one that is watching me carefully. I gasp. The intelligence in that look is shocking. The animal’ s gaz e
112
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
OPPOSITE PAGE: Tour operators hiking
through the Dzanga-Sangha Reserve. THIS PAGE, UPPER LEFT: BaAka pygmy
guides watch forest elephants grazing in a clearing, waiting for them to leave to ensure safe passage. UPPER RIGHT: Red-tailed guenon
photographed at Doki Lodge. BOTTOM: A mother forest elephant digs
for minerals while her baby nurses.
MARIN
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113
LEFT: A BaAka pygmy woman
with intricate scarification details on her face. MIDDLE: Aerial view of the Dzanga-Sangha Reserve. RIGHT: Doki Lodge, DzanghaSangha Reserve.
If you go Trips to the Central African Republic are tricky to say the least. Visas, permits, flights and transportation to the park are complicated and best organized by a tour company experienced in the region. Bushtracks Expeditions, (bushtracks.com), based in Healdsburg, has over 10 years experience and is one of the only U.S.–based companies specializing in bringing visitors to see the lowland gorilla in the DzangaSangha Reserve.
114
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SEPTEMBER 2007
Family of gorillas in Mbeli Bai, Nouabale-Ndoki National Park, Congo.
holds my own and for a split second, I lose my breath. I am eye to eye
The pygmies find Makumbo again, sitting near a large tree, his
with a 400-pound silverback lowland gorilla, and he is no more than
back to the trunk. He glances over his shoulder at us and scratches
25 feet away.
his head. He looks away, munches on a piece of grass, then looks at
“It’s overwhelming,” Chloe says.
us again. His movements, his gestures are human. His stare gives me
The gorilla, named Makumbo by the researchers, grunts and rises.
a chill and I realize, humbly, that I am allowed here only by his graces
“Sorry, Makumbo,” Chloe says, diverting her eyes as he scolds and then trudges deeper into the brush. We got too close.
and good nature. Our persistence pays off, though. Makumbo ambles through the for-
His smell is all around, acrid, burning my nasal passages. His silver
est to a deciduous tree and begins to climb. His massive frame scam-
hair gleams amid the green foliage, and yet his enormous body blends
pers up the small trunk and collapses amid leaves of bright red and
in. We follow his trail. I would have walked by him again without a sec-
yellow. He lies back, facing the sunny sky, reaches out and pulls a
ond glance if the BaAka were not now pointing him out in the shadows.
branch toward him, munching on the foliage with an occasional peek
Makumbo is a young silverback, approximately 20 years old. His
in our direction.
group consists of 13: himself, four females, seven juveniles and one in-
For half an hour, we watch him dine. Then, he stands up, his entire
fant. They are spread across the jungle floor around us. The others play,
body visible, and stares down at us for maybe 30 seconds before lum-
climbing trees to feed, then descending with a cry and occasional chest
bering down the tree and disappearing into the bush.
beat. Makumbo tolerates the frolic with apparent patience.
On the flight back to Cameroon, I look down at the forest below.
As he relaxes, we creep closer, hoping to take a photograph through
The sea of green has varying shades, flowering orange trees and bright
the brush. Raising my lens, I search for a profile, maybe even an eye.
green clearings. I now can imagine the animals below, ambling through
He moves and the trudge starts again.
the darkness, emerging to feed, drink, and bathe. I now know the sight
As we claw our way through bush and bramble, insects climb
of elephant bulls challenging each other over precious mineral-rich
aboard for a ride—and a meal. I have ants in my hair and on my legs.
sinkholes, of a mother gorilla cuddling her infant and a herd of buf-
One bites painfully. I squelch a yell and rip it from my arm. It does
falo spooking. I can hear the soulful chanting of BaAka pygmies as they
not come off easily; Central African ants are pit bulls—they bite and
move into the forest on a hunt. I know the smell of must, of the damp
they don’t let go.
jungle heat. And as the engines drone, I can hear the jungle speak.
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
115
GO
O‘ahu’s classic beach destination goes upscale
As trite as it sounds, what I really like about Hawai‘i (other than the beaches, the warm water and the Pacific island food) is the aloha spirit. The easygoing
STORY & PHOTOS BY BEN DAVIDSON
island mood reminds me of the more relaxed Marin of some 30 or more years ago. It’s a welcome antidote to our overcaffeinated Bay Area lifestyle, and I was looking forward to soaking it up when I headed to Honolulu for a four-day family vacation in Waikiki. 116
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
Our home
will stretch your horizons.
Only one airline is Hawaiian and you feel it the moment you step onboard. Genuine hospitality, complimentary meals and widebody cabins are just a part of our awardwinning service. Each day we fly daily from San Francisco and San Jose non-stop to Hawai‘i. You’ll find travel specials and our lowest fares on our website, so come home with us.
HawaiianAirlines.com H A W A I I S TA R T S H E R E
MY WIFE, MY SIX-YEAR-OLD and I flew on
Roy and Estelle Kelley, founders of Outrigger
RACK RATES Standard rooms start at $200
American Airlines from San Francisco to
opened The Islander Hotel, in 1947. In a speech
while ocean front, $299. EATS For anytime
Honolulu, anticipating some fun in the sun
commemorating both occasions, Dr. Richard
dining try the MAC 24 – 7 restaurant featur-
and surf. I was also curious to see Waikiki’s
Kelley, Chairman of Outrigger Enterprises and
ing modern American cooking. WOW! The
much-touted renewal.
son of the founders, recalled how his parents
hotel’s recent upgrades feature a swanky,
At the airport, we were greeted with the
helped the world discover Waikiki and hence
contemporary look complete with flat screen
traditional flower lei before being shuttled a
all of Hawai‘i. “Waikiki Beach Walk,” he said,
televisions and designer bedding. CONTACT
short distance to the Aqua Palms, a boutique
“marks the beginning of an exciting new era
808.922.0811, hilton.com
hotel right across the street from the Hilton
for Waikiki, building on our reputation as a
Hawaiian Village. The Palms represents the
world-class destination and, we believe, rais-
latest in Waikiki hotel trends—major room
ing it to new heights.”
renovations, common-area upgrades and, in general, a more upscale, modern experience.
Moana Surfrider, A Westin Resort Known as “The First Lady of Waikiki” and
These new heights consist of eight acres
built in 1901, the hotel was the height of lux-
of shopping, six restaurants, an outdoor en-
ury for that time, offering telephones and the
In the last decade, Honolulu has spent $80
tertainment plaza with daily free activities in-
first electric powered elevator in the territory.
million refurbishing Waikiki’s streets, side-
cluding Hawaiian language and hula lessons
Eventually it was bought by Sheraton, and was
walks, parks and even sewer lines. Local offi-
for the whole family.
just recently renovated and rebranded as a Westin last June.
cials saw the money as a reinvestment in an
Waikiki Beach was exactly what I expected:
area that generates about 20 percent of the
bordered by a dense wall of hotels and blan-
RACK RATES $395 for city view rooms,
city’s tax revenue. Also, the state has begun to
keted with a swath of sunbathers, Japanese
$560 for a partial ocean view room and $640
restore the beach, contributing about $500,000
tourists, local families and sunburned eccen-
for a deluxe ocean view room. EATS In October
to the effort in the last year. The hotel compa-
trics. The beach itself is quite beautiful, a cres-
the resort will return to its rich history and tra-
ny Outrigger Enterprises and others, including
cent-shaped stretch of sand punctuated by the
ditions by once again offering tea service and
Sheraton/Kyo-ya, Royal Hawaiian Shopping
signature rugged Diamond Head on the west-
finger sandwiches on the Banyan Veranda.
Center/Kamehameha Schools, Marriott, Hilton
ern end. Waikiki was once a special place for
WOW! Take a dip in the freshwater swim-
and the retail center 2100 Kalakaua, have
native Hawaiians and has evolved from a mid-
ming pool, which sits directly behind the ho-
pumped in more than $100 billion. The hos-
dle-market tourist mecca to a contemporary
tel’s private beach. Be sure to visit the 75-foot
pitality chain Kyo-ya owns the most rooms in
trendy destination.
tall Banyan Tree, among one of the first to be listed on Hawai‘i’s Rare and Exceptional Tree
Waikiki (Sheraton Waikiki, the Westin Moana Surfrider, the Royal Hawaiian and the Sheraton
WHERE TO STAY
Princess Kaiulani). Outrigger, though, man-
Embassy Suites This new 421-room,
ages the most rooms (five Outriggers, the Ala
21-story Embassy Suites sits at the heart of the
Moana Hotel, Wyland Waikiki, Pacific Beach
Waikiki Beach Walk and was part of the 8-acre
Hotel and six Ohana hotels in Waikiki).
redevelopment program created by Outrigger
Additionally, groups such as Starwood,
Enterprises.
List. This tree was planted by the hotel as a 7-foot sapling in 1904. CONTACT 808.922.3111, moana-surfrider.com
Waikiki Parc The Waikiki Parc Hotel recently completed a multimillion dollar ren-
ResortQuest Hawai‘i, Napili Partners (Hotel
RACK RATES City View guest-rooms
ovation. Each room features ebony wood
Renew), Outrigger Enterprises Group (Waikiki
start at $269, Ocean View guest-rooms $319
headboards, crisp white bedding and flat
Beach Walk, Embassy Suites, Ohana) and
and a two-bedroom, two-bath suite starts at
screen televisions.
Trump (Trump Tower) have invested in de-
$469. EATS Bay Area classics like Ruth’s Chris
RACK RATES Standard rooms start at
veloping, remodeling and rebranding. Classic
Steakhouse and Cheesecake Factory are with-
$275, deluxe ocean view rooms start at $415.
high-end properties such as the venerable
in walking distance WOW! Guests are treated
EATS Chef Nobu Matsuhisa has opened Nobu
Halekulani have renovated and added spas.
to a complimentary cooked-to-order break-
Waikiki in the lobby of the Waikiki Parc, cur-
On the whole, Hawai‘i is catering to higher-
fast with selections like eggs anyway you like
rently the most expensive restaurant ever built
spending, longer-staying visitors, targeting its
and choose-your-own omelets. CONTACT
in the islands. WOW! The hotel’s outdoor roof-
biggest market: the U.S. West Coast.
800.362.2779, embassysuiteswaikiki.com
top pool is the perfect place to enjoy a Blue Hawaiian and take in the sights. Ask about the
The first phoenix to rise from the rubble is the Waikiki Beach Walk, which just celebrated
Hilton Waikiki Prince Kuhio Following
Lotus Experience program—two nights and
its completion last May—along with the 60th
a 65-million dollar renovation, this 37-
24-hour rental of the Lotus Elise. CONTACT
anniversary of Outrigger Hotels and Resorts.
story hotel is just steps from Waikiki Beach.
800.422.0450, waikikiparc.com
118
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
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What’s new on the neighbor islands BY M. L. LATHAN Hershey’s has unveiled a new treat called Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Kisses, Don Ho is now singing with the angels and the Alakai, or Hawai‘i Superferry, just instated car and passenger service from O‘ahu to Kaua‘i and Maui. Even in our laid-back 50th state, change is inevitable. One constant reminder of time’s forward march is the rumble of the backhoe, along with the rat-a-tat of jackhammers. While a few now-shuttered standbys like Kaua‘i’s Coco Palms and the Big Island’s Mauna Kea Beach Hotel wait out their fate in limbo, dozens of other properties built in the late ’60s through the ’80s have had multimillion-dollar renovations. In step with the decade-long revamp of O‘ahu’s Waikiki, here’s a
photo above: Rendering of the Kapalua Bay resort development in the foreground which will include hotel and residential condominium properties.
look at what’s new and revitalized on the surrounding neighbor islands. 120
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
LONG
BE FORE AIRPLANE S and ocean liners
Bay— awe-inspiring swimming and snorkeling.
brought thousands of tourists a week to Kahului,
Front-row seat for humpback whale watch-
seafaring whalers and sailors crowded the port
ing in the winter. CONTACT 8 00.6 8 8 .7 444,
of Lahaina, where Lahainaluna High School, the
outriggercondominiums.com
very first high school west of the Rockies, was built in 1 8 3 1 . ( The school, still open, recently
The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua By December
made headlines observing its 1 7 5 -year anniver-
2 007 the Ritz -Carlton Kapalua hopes to open
sary.) Last July, Maui added yet another super-
its doors after a $ 1 2 5 million ex tensive re-
lative to its shores, when U niversity of Hawai‘ i
model, just in time for the Mercedes-Benz
officials dedicated a telescope, called PS1 , atop
Championship. The hotel is part of the 2 3 ,000-
Haleakala crater. The telescope will soon be
acre Kapalua Resort, which plans to spend
equipped with the world’ s largest digital cam-
upwards of $ 3 3 0 million on infrastructure im-
era —
provements, lux ury homes, condos and apart-
1 .4 billion pix els —
which will help astron-
omers scan the sky for “ killer asteroids,” among
ments at this west Maui primo locale.
other interesting phenomena. On the terres-
RACK RATES G arden rooms start at $ 5 05 ,
trial front, property sales have begun in the
ocean-view $ 6 45 , club-level $ 7 2 5 , ocean-
1 1 -acre Maluaka community, the island’ s first
front suite $ 9 5 5 , club-level suites $ 1 ,2 00.
green residential development. Among its sus-
POOL Three-tiered pool and children’ s pool,
tainable design aspects are storm water reten-
Jacuz z is. SAND Three award-winning white
tion, a photovoltaic energy system and use of
sand beaches, including D. T. Fleming, Oneloa
low-emission materials throughout the build-
and Kapalua Bay, all within walking distance.
ing process. Maluaka is in the process of earn-
of them lighted for night play. WOW! E very
For the more adventurous, rental equipment
ing Silver and G old levels of LE E D ( Leadership
night, the conch shell blows at sunset announc-
and lessons are available for windsurfing, scu-
in E nergy and E nvironmental Design) certifica-
ing a luau, complete with full buffet, Polynesian
ba, kayaking, diving and snorkeling. EATS On
tion —
dancers, musicians and fire artists. CONTACT
site, the Banyan Tree has eclectic Pacific cui-
8 00.2 2 2 .5 6 42 , royallahaina.net
sine from Chef Jojo Vasquez . The Terrace serves
the first residential project in Hawai‘ i to
meet the criteria.
a breakfast buffet and regional Pacific fare for
T h e Roya l La h a i n a Re s o r t i n Ka‘anapali Built in 1 9 6 2 , this iconic proper-
Outrigger Napili Shores Not only have
lunch and dinner. Kai Sushi Bar has Japanese
they upped the thread count at this good-value
appetiz ers as well as sushi and sashimi. For ca-
ty is right on the beach, three miles north of
prime-location spot, but fl at-screen televisions,
sual dining, choose the Beach House Bar & G rill
Lahaina. A new $ 3 0 million renovation was
granite countertops and quiet dishwashers
or the Pool Bar &
completed on the grounds, in the guest rooms
were added to all units.
dred miles of hiking trails, a new Hawaiian-
of the 1 2 -story tower and the beachfront and garden cottages. RACK RATES G uest rooms $ 2 00 to $ 5 00;
Cafe. WHAT ELSE? A hun-
RACK RATES G arden view starts at $ 2 05 ,
inspired spa, prox imity to championship
ocean view at $ 2 3 9 , oceanfront at $ 2 7 5 .
tennis courts and two world-class golf cours-
POOL Oceanfront and heated garden pool
es; the latter were both Audubon-certified and
tower suites $ 5 5 0 to $ 1 ,2 2 5 . POOL Three
with whirlpool spa. SAND A five-minute drive
voted No. 1 G olf Destination in Hawai‘ i for
pools, two of them oceanfront. SAND There’ s
to the award-winning Kapalua or Ka‘ anapali
2 006 by readers of Travel + Leisure Golf maga-
a ton of it. Ka‘ anapali beach has been consis-
beach. EATS Two on-site choices: the Fish &
z ine. WOW! They plan to double the siz e of
tently recogniz ed as one of the best beaches
Poi Restaurant, with Pacific Rim cuisine, or
the Spa at the Ritz -Carlton Kapalua to 1 4,000
in the world. Take part in sailing, bodysurfing,
the Oceanside G az ebo Restaurant, where the
square feet, which will include private outdoor
surfing, snorkeling and diving. EATS On site,
macadamia nut pancakes are a popular break-
gardens, couples’ cabanas and treatments based
choose from contemporary Hawaiian cuisine at
fast. WHAT ELSE? Relax ed old-style envi-
on traditional Hawaiian healing practices.
the Royal Ocean Terrace or island-style appetiz -
ronment with plenty of wide-open space. A
CONTACT 8 08 .6 6 9 .6 2 00, ritz carlton.com
ers at Don the Beachcomber Tiki Lounge; or try
terraced lawn leads to the ocean; shuffl eboard
Lahaina’ s offerings just down the road. WHAT
deck area and a large checkerboard where co-
Wailea Beach Marrio Resort & Spa
ELSE? Besides walking trails and the two
conuts are used as checkers; plus prox imity to
This resort is just about to finish a $ 6 0 million
1 8 -hole options at the Royal Ka‘ anapali G olf
all that Kapalua has to offer, right up the road.
renovation, including all rooms and ex terior
Course, the “ tennis ranch” offers 1 1 courts, six
WOW! Oceanfront trail heads down to Napili
areas, a new spa and a fitness facility.
122
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
RACK RATES Guest rooms start at $200, tower suites at $550. POOL Outdoor pool and Wailele Children’s pool both offer great ocean views. SAND A short walk (.3 miles) to Wailea Beach. EATS Hula Moons restaurant and lounge for any meal of the day; lunch is served at Kumu Bar & Grill, or opt for local fare and entertainment at the Honua Ula Luau Dinner Show. WHAT ELSE? Three golf courses within 5 miles, hiking and biking trails, snorkeling, scuba. WOW! Easy access to the Wailea shops and attractions. CONTACT 808.879.1922, marriott.com
Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea Keen to keep its status as Hawai‘i’s first and only AAA Five Diamond and Mobil Five-Star resort, the Four Seasons has just undergone a $50 million renovation. This was the very first Four
been turned into vacation rental properties at
Seasons Resort when it was built in 1990 and it
Ho‘olei. Also just completed: a 100-guest-room
still gets high marks, rated No. 3 destination spa
private club area called Napua Tower.
in the world by Zagat Survey 2007/2008.
RACK RATES Guest rooms at Napua
RACK RATES Guest rooms start at $440,
start at $1,200, two-bedroom town homes
executive suites $825, one-bedroom suite $970,
at Ho‘olei start at $1,000. POOL Besides
two-bedroom suites $1,890; the luxury Maile
the elaborate waterpark-like Wailea Canyon
suite is $11,500. POOL Fountain pool in the
Activity pool, the Napua Tower has its own
center of the resort has a whirlpool at either
children’s pool, and Ho‘olei features a large
end. SAND The white sands of Wailea Beach are
pool with swim-in grotto and 19-foot water-
steps away. EATS Ferraro’s Bar e Ristorante is
fall and children’s pool. SAND Both properties
a casual spot with delicious island fare, includ-
are steps off the award-winning Wailea Beach
GREAT NEWS for those in the Bay Area
ing pizzas made from a kiawe wood-burning
EATS Humuhumunukunukuapua’a is a “float-
who hail Kaua‘i as their slice of heaven: ATA
stove; Spago is an island-inspired Wolfgang
ing” seafood restaurant named after Hawai‘i’s
Airlines now has a direct flight from Oakland
Puck experience; DUO offers luxurious pool-
official state fish. Affectionately known as
to Lihue, leaving at 6 p.m. and arriving in
side dining. WHAT ELSE? Wailea Gold golf
Humu Humu, the restaurant is composed
time for a late evening mai tai. Hospitality gi-
course; two tennis courts, lit at night; snorkel-
of a cluster of thatch-roof Polynesian huts.
ants Marriott and Ritz-Carlton have broken
ing; scuba. WOW! Voted one of the top spas
Guests may select their own lobster from the
ground on Kaua‘i Lagoons, their biggest joint
in America, the spa offers a total wellness ex-
lagoon or savor delicious island cuisine with
effort to date.
perience, including transformative treatments
Polynesian and Hawaiian influences. WHAT
Located just south of the airport along
from head to toe. CONTACT 800.311.0630,
ELSE? Besides amenities like a fitness center
Kalapaki Beach, that resort will include a golf
fourseasons.com
with oversize showers and sauna, guests have
course, homes and condominiums—some set
access to all that the Grand Wailea has to of-
around a 38-acre lagoon navigated by classic
Grand Wailea Maui, Napua Tower/ Ho‘olei Built in 1991 as a Hyatt Regency
fer, such as the Spa Grande, Wailea Golf Club,
Chris-Craft boats.
tennis, snorkeling and more. WOW! Guests of
With an eye toward sustainability, the de-
Grand Wailea Resort and Spa, the property
the Napua Tower will have access to a person-
velopers are keeping a significant portion of
was touted as the world’s most expensive ho-
alized concierge who will contact them prior
the 520 acres in their natural state. There’s
tel. Recently much has been happening at the
to arrival to make necessary reservations for
also lots of new construction under way in the
40-acre resort, literally, after a multimillion-
the entire stay. CONTACTS 800.888.6100,
Poipu area; one completed project is the Grand
dollar project, lots just across the street have
grandwailea.com
Hyatt Kaua‘i’s newly expanded spa and fitness
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center, making it the largest on the island (sec-
low tide. EATS On the premises, Shells Steak
ond-largest in the state).
and Seafood Restaurant has the same sweeping panoramic view of Poipu Beach as the adjacent
Sheraton Kaua‘i Resort Back in 1992,
Naniwa Japanese Restaurant and Sushi Bar.
Hurricane Iniki ravaged this entire property.
Or dine poolside/beachside at the Oasis Bar
The hotel, built by Sheraton in 1968, was com-
& Grill. WHAT ELSE? Fitness center and on-
pletely rebuilt and reopened in 1997; it recent-
site tennis courts (two lit for night play); Keiki
ly had a $14 million renovation, focused on
Aloha Club (kids’ program, available daily);
the interiors.
championship golf courses; stores, boutiques
RACK RATES Starting rates for garden
and eateries at the nearby Poipu Shopping
view $400, oceanfront $690, deluxe ocean-
Village. WOW! Rent a beach cabana (ask for
front suites $1,650. POOL The ocean-view
#15, 16 or 17). It’s only $35 for the day, steps
pool is kid-friendly, with a shallow entrance and
from the water, sheltered from the sun — the
Beach Resort has come full circle, from its start
waterslide; the garden pool is quieter, surround-
cheapest (and possibly most effective)
in 1986 as a Hilton, on to an Outrigger and then
ed by tropical foliage. SAND The 20-acre prop-
form of therapy. CONTACT 866.716.8109,
a Radisson, and later the Kaua‘i Beach Hotel.
erty is situated on the southwest point of Poipu
sheraton-Kauai.com
RACK RATES Starting rates for mountain view $179, oceanfront $249, one-bedroom
Beach, known for white sand, gentle surf and visiting monk seals. The beach stretches for a
Hilton Kaua‘i Beach Resort The new
ocean-view suite $575. POOL Four, includ-
quarter mile and is a great place to explore at
$18 million renovated, rebranded Hilton Kaua‘i
ing a sandy-bottom pool with a 75-foot flume
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SEPTEMBER 2007
125
and lava-tube waterslide. SAND The five-story oceanfront resort is on a three-mile stretch of the island’s eastern shore in an area called the Coconut Coast, with views to the north and south. EATS For dinner, try the open-air TRIPADVISOR’S MOST HONORED
Naupaka Terrace, a plantation-style restaurant
HOTEL COMPANY IN WAIKIKI
featuring steak and seafood; for sunset appetizers, Shutters Lounge is the place, with live entertainment as well as a light dinner menu. WHAT ELSE? Pamper yourself with a massage at the Alolani Spa and Fitness Center (ask for in-room or beachside, to match your mood), spinal detox treatments and Hawaiian salt body scrubs. WOW! Only three miles to the Huleia National Wildlife Refuge, habitat for four species of endangered birds, and the Huleia River, where Indiana Jones made his escape in the opening scenes of Raiders of the Lost Ark. CONTACT 800.445.8667, hiltonKauairesort.com
Outrigger Waipouli Beach Resort This brand-new $200 million resort and spa is on the east side of Kaua‘i, between Kapa‘a and Wailua. RACK RATES Starting at $269 for a oneor two-bedroom unit. POOL Heated saltwater
IT’S IMPOSSIBLE TO write about Big Island
“fantasy pool,” with a flowing river, garden,
news without mentioning the media scene-
dual serpentine waterslides, sand-bottom chil-
stealer Madame Pele, who constantly entertains
dren’s pool and three sand-bottom whirlpool
visitors and locals with her fiery temper. In oth-
tubs. SAND Just out the door, Waipouli’s white-
er showplace news, the Queens’ Marketplace
sand beach is great for strolling, snorkeling and
and Cultural Gardens at the Waikoloa Beach
(for the more adventurous) kitesurfing. EATS
Resort is near completion. The 28-acre enter-
Casual and high-end dining across the street at
taining complex will have restaurants as well
the Kaua‘i Village Shopping Center, Waipouli
as a 4,000-square-foot performance garden.
Town Center, and the Coconut Marketplace.
Some other exciting building projects on the
With the Sub Zero refrigerators and Wolf con-
horizon: longtime favorite Kona Village on
vection ovens in the units, though, why not
the Kohala Coast has changed hands again,
dine in? WHAT ELSE? Shopping, dining and
this time snatched up by Michael Dell’s MSD
a movie theater just down the street. Wailua
Capital along with Rockpoint Group, which
Golf Course is nearby; for a bigger challenge,
also jointly bought the neighboring 865-acre
head 20 minutes up the road to Princeville
Hualalai Resort and Four Seasons Resort
Unique boutique...lifestyle amenities without the luxury price tag
Resort’s acclaimed Prince and Makai cours-
Hualalai last year. And new owners of the
es. Aveda Experience Center spa and salon
landmark King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach
Best Rates at aquaresorts.com toll free 1.866.406.2782 (aqua)
offers a bevy of services, including poolside
Hotel just announced a planned $25 million
massage. WOW! This property is the Coconut
renovation of the 460-room oceanfront prop-
Coast’s first new luxury-condo resort in near-
erty. If their timing is right, completion could
ly two decades. CONTACT 800.688.7444,
coincide with anticipated improvements to
outriggercondominiums.com
Kailua Village. Business owners and resi-
beach life. urban vibe.
sm
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MARINMAGAZINE.COM
TM
Discover a Great Destination. Support a Great Cause. This Fall, select O‘ahu partners join in a program - Travel Pink, Travel O‘ahu to support the Hawai‘i Affiliate of Susan G. Komen for the Cure. For details go to:
visit-oahu.com/travelpink
Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort and Spa
dents of this historical fishing town are lobby-
Park, about five minutes away. EATS On site:
ing for the same type of federal BID ( Business
Casual meals at Kai with waterfront views,
Improvement District) money as Waikiki,
poolside dining at Manta Ray Bar and G rill.
and supporters are hopeful that some well-
Catch the “ green fl ash” at Crystal Blue, a fa-
needed dollars will help restore Kailua to its
vorite for cocktails, premium wine and pupus,
former glory.
or grab a cup of Kona coffee at the Keauhou Bay Coffee Co. WHAT ELSE? Take the com-
Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort and Spa Built in 1 9 6 1 , the Kona Surf welcomed
plimentary shuttle to the beach park, Kailua-
visitors from around the world, who were cu-
and Ali‘ i Mountain golf courses were both de-
rious about the newly inducted 5 0th state and
signed by William Bell. WOW! Nightly ( if
the legendary sportfishing Kona has to offer.
nature agrees) manta ray show. These wild
This year marks the end of a $ 40 million reno-
creatures are surprisingly dependable per-
vation of the now-renamed Sheraton Keauhou
formers, dancing under the fl oodlight provid-
Bay Resort and Spa. RACK RATES G uest rooms start at $ 3 5 0,
Kona or Kona Country Club, where the Ocean
ed by the hotel. CONTACT 8 8 8 .48 8 .3 5 3 5 , sheratonkeauhou.com
suites at $ 9 00. POOL A multilevel pool connected by a river system that leads to a waterfall and transitions to a 2 00-foot-long lava tube
Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa Opened in 1 9 8 1 as the Sheraton Royal
waterslide. A sandy-bottomed children’ s pool
Waikoloan, this property was only the third
area includes a large shallow-water beach area
hotel to be built on the priz ed Kohala Coast.
and is bordered by playful interactive foun-
Nestled between a jet-black lava fl ow and the
tains. SAND Nearest beach is Kahalu‘ u Beach
turquoise Anaeho‘ omalu Bay, it has since wel-
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
127
comed visitors as both a Sheraton and an
the resort hotel. E njoy 3 6 holes of champion
and adults. Kayaks and paddleboats avail-
Outrigger property, known for great value and
golf at nearby Waikoloa G olf Club. On site,
able to rent. EATS Ten on-site dining loca-
location. As of March 2 007 , a completed $ 5 4
play tennis or table tennis, kayak or snorkel.
tions, including Imari ( authentic Japanese
million renovation has brought all-new guest
WOW! The beachfront property has ocean-
cuisine) and award-winning Donatoni’ s Italian
rooms, an infinity pool and a Mandara Spa.
view cabana accommodations with spectac-
restaurant. Or get off the property and choose
RACK RATES G uest rooms start at $ 42 5 ,
ular views, especially during the humpback
from nearby options at the King’ s shopping
suites at $ 1 ,1 3 0. POOL Two, including a new
whale season. CONTACT 8 08 .8 8 6 .6 7 8 9 ,
center. WHAT ELSE? Voted Top Family Resort
infinity pool with lava pots, sandy-bottom chil-
marriott.com
in Hawai‘ i, in 2 006 by Travel +Leisure Family Magazine children of all ages are sure to have
dren’ s pool, waterfalls, slide and three whirlpools. SAND Half-mile-long white sand beach
Hilton Waikoloa Village Famous for its
fun. For adults ( or kids) , choose from two
fronting the property, with sailing, snorkeling
opulence when it was built in the mid-’ 8 0s,
nearby championship golf courses or sign up
and other beach activities; equipment available
this 6 2 -acre property is in the middle of a
for a daily tennis clinic ( beginner to advanced)
to rent. EATS Casual breakfast at the Kona
three-year $ 9 0 million renovation. With 1 ,2 40
on one of the eight Plex iCushion tennis
Coffee Shoppe, lunch and dinner at Hawai‘ i
suites to refurbish, they’ ll need every penny.
courts. WOW! G et coz y with the dolphins of
Lounge, and a Royal Luau
RACK RATES Starting at $ 3 5 0 for guest
with dancing every night. Off site: King’ s shop-
rooms and $ 9 00 for suites. POOL Ocean
seum corridor featuring $ 6
ping center is right across the street, with op-
Tower pool is for adults only; the Kohala
of Asian and Pacific art. Take a Swiss-
tions like Starbucks, Roy’ s and Merriman’ s
River pool is three pools connected by wa-
made air-conditioned mahogany-trim
Market Cafe. WHAT ELSE? Take a leisurely
terslides; the Kona pool features a 1 7 6 -foot
canal boat to your room, the pool, or restau-
walk to ex plore ancient Hawaiian petroglyph
twisting waterslide and waterfalls. SAND
rant of choice. CONTACT 8 00.445 .8 6 6 7 ,
fields and the ancient Hawaiian fishpond at
A sandy, four-acre lagoon is great for kids
hiltonwaikoloavillage.com
Calls Restaurant &
Dolphin Q uest, or stroll the mile-long mumillion worth
BED BREAKFAST & BEYOND enjoy a private thatched-roof bungalow oceanside breakfast for two complimentary activities & amenities beyond compare at hawaii’s most authentic resort rates starting at $485, double occupancy
visit www.konavillage.com/bbb-marin
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Lana‘i
ure, there’s not a lot of news coming from this
its $50 million renovation and Four Seasons
island whose population ranges from 3,000 to
reincarnation. New offerings include 42-inch
IT’S HARD TO imagine that
4,000 depending on the occupancy of the two
LCD flat-screen televisions, DVD/CD players,
this verdant, pear-shaped, 13-
luxury resorts–the Lodge at Ko‘ele, built in
signature beds and linens, a new fitness and
by-18-mile island was nearly
1990, and Manele Bay, built in 1991. Since
recreation center, a restaurant and a huge se-
devastated by livestock
their constuction, these sister resorts have
lection of pampering services.
grazing in the late 1800s.
hosted wealthy travelers, hi-tech billion-
RACK RATES Garden rooms start at
The island became so
aires and Hollywood celebrities and have
$395, oceanfront $840, three-bedroom Ali‘i
dry and dusty, Lana‘i ranch manager George
earned their reputation as a laid-back yet
Suite $8,940. POOL Ocean-view pool is the
Munro worried it would blow into the ocean.
first-class destination. Last year owners
central area of the resort, with panoram-
One day, listening to drops of rain fall on his
Castle & Cooke spent over $100 million to re-
ic vistas of the Pacific. Two whirlpools flank
tin roof, he surmised the 125-foot Norfolk
identify them with the Four Seasons brand.
the pool; luxury services (e.g., Evian spritz-
pine next to his home trapped at least 100 gal-
One other local news flash concerns
ing) are offered throughout the day. SAND
lons of water a day from the morning fog. He
the Sweetest Days ice cream shop recently
The beach path leads to Hulopo‘e Bay, the
planted 10,000 similar pines—and saved the
opened in Lana‘i City: word says it’s worth a vis-
resort’s golden-sand crescent beach, which
island from turning into a red dust bowl.
it. You’ll find traditional favorite island flavors
includes a protected marine preserve. EATS
such as pineapple, guava and macadamia nut as
Ihilani is an on-site Italian restaurant;
well as chocolate-dipped frozen bananas.
Hulopo‘e Court serves Pacific Rim cui-
This is just one of the anecdotes from The Story of Lana‘i, a book published this year by Native Press containing Munro’s meticulous
sine; Ocean Grill has Asian-influenced sea-
notes during his decades on Lana‘i. Besides
The Four Seasons Lana‘i Manele Bay
food. WHAT ELSE? Jack Nicklaus designed
that recent salute to an historical local fig-
The oceanfront resort has settled nicely into
the Challenge at Manele, the resort’s ocean-
No strings or roof attached. General admission to the Polynesian Cultural Center
Child admission to Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park
Escape to Hawaii! Every Budget rental comes with our exclusive coupons worth hundreds of dollars. Enjoy all your favorite attractions– FREE! Free admissions, food and activities around the islands. Ask about our daily and weekly specials.
Adult admission to Sea Life Park
For Reservations, call 1-800-527-0700 or visit us at www.budget.com Subject to availability and change without notice. Refueling, taxes, state and government surcharges, concession fees, vehicle license fees and optional items are extra and are subject to change without notice. Normal rental requirements apply. One free gift from each Budget coupon program participant per set of Budget car keys and rental contract. Coupons are available at Budget.com. We feature Lincolns, Mercurys and other fine cars and trucks. ©2006 Budget Rent a Car System, Inc. A global system of corporation and license owned locations.
Child admission to Bishop Museum
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
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SEPTEMBER 2007
129
side golf course. The resort’s tennis center offers lessons and games. Surfing, snorkeling, scuba, boating, kayaking, hiking and spa treatments are all available. WOW! Hulopo‘e Bay is home to Hawai‘i’s largest pod of playful spinner dolphins. CONTACT
Visit uncrowded, unspoiled Moloka‘i. There is still one place where Aloha is not just a word, but also a way of life. Moloka‘i is known as the Friendly Isle and the Hawaiian Isle rich in culture and unforgettable scenery. From lush valleys and pristine coral reefs, to uncrowded beaches and wide open lands, Moloka‘i’s easy-going lifestyle and strong cultural ties are truly Hawai‘i at its best.
800.321.4666, fourseasons.com/manelebay
Four Seasons Resort Lana‘i, The Lodge at Ko‘ele Situated on the upper slopes of Lana‘i, the lodge’s country ambience is unique in comparison to other Hawaiian island
The search for the real Hawai‘i begins with Moloka‘i and ends with you!
properties. Its multimillion dollar renovation
1-800-800-6367 molokai-hawaii.com
and Four Seasons rebranding was completed earlier this year. All guest rooms are now outfitted with luxury furnishings, including new signature beds, 40-inch LCD flat-screen televisions and DVD/CD players. RACK RATES Garden rooms start at $295, great hall fireplace room $595, great hall fireplace suite $1,400. POOL Swim in a tranquil setting with views of rolling hills. The Four Seasons pampering poolside services and two whirlpools are geared to quiet and relaxation. SAND A peaceful shuttle ride away at the Manele Bay. EATS The dining room offers local game (venison and quail) as well as classic favorites (butter-poached lobster and American Kobe beef). The Terrace is more casual: a contemporary American menu with Hawaiian influences. The Experience Clubhouse offers sandwiches, salads and, some say, the best burger in Hawai‘i. WHAT ELSE? Take mountain bikes on the Munro trail, a seven-mile loop including the highest point of the island at 3,370-feet. Or opt for the Greg Norman–designed golf course, sporting clays, hiking, tennis, croquet, lawn bowling, horseback riding. WOW! The lodge is home to a pagoda that was constructed in China, then deconstructed, shipped to Lana‘i and reconstructed on the grounds by Chinese builders along with local Lana‘i builders. A tropical garden in front of the lodge showcases Hawaiian staples: coffee, taro, pineapple, guava, papaya and more. CONTACT 800.321.4666, fourseasons.com/koele
130
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Moloka‘i
Ultimate Maui Getaway
COINED THE “FRIENDLY I S L E , ” Moloka‘i has recently seen some ripples of conflict: its chief developer, Moloka‘i Ranch, is busy trying to defend a plan to develop 500 acres of La‘au Point, a
Enter to Win Marin Magazine’s Maui Sweepstakes
10-mile stretch of pristine coast, into an upscale subdivision; refurbish the long-closed Kaluako‘i resort; and in the process give back more than 50,000 acres to the community. Sound fair? According to a recent article in the Honolulu Star Bulletin, “it’s a move that can either be interpreted as a cease-fire in a 30-year-old war
1 Visit www.marinmagazine.com
Ultimate Maui Getaway
2 Click on Sweepstakes Link. 3 Complete reader survey and register to win two round-trip airline tickets courtesy of ATA, a 4-night/5-day stay at the Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa on Maui and a 2-day rental car from Budget.
between Moloka‘i residents and the island’s primary developer, or as the starting shot of a development battle the likes of which have never been seen before.” Practically speaking, developing Kaluako‘i resort will provide jobs and opportunities for local businesses. In 2001 Moloka‘i Ranch acquired this beachfront property, which was
“The Largest Selection of Oceanfront Condominiums on the West Side of Maui”
originally built in the ’60s. According to reports they plan on spending around $30 million to fund improvements for this classic resort. In exchange for La‘au Point (which will cost upwards of $80 million to develop), Moloka‘i Ranch will return 50,000 acres of once privately held land to the community. They contend this action will help conserve the island’s culture and environment, as well as create at least 200 jobs with the development of the Kaluako‘i Hotel and adjacent golf course. Win-win? While half the island’s residents have voted in favor of the project, opponents passionately argue that the development would cause desecration of what they believe to be sacred Hawaiian grounds. To learn more about the island of Moloka‘i, its colorful and unique island culture, or the above political issue, visit Molokairanch. com, Molokaiproperties.com, Molokai.com or savelaau.com.
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
Hale Mahina, Ka’anapali, Kahana Outrigger, Kahana Reef Mahana, Papakea, Royal Kahana, Valley Isle
1-800-367-6092 • www.chasenrainbows.com MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
131
PLAY
HIKING MARIN Seventeen trails to explore out your front door BY AMY KUHN AND MIMI TOWLE
FOR MANY OF US IN MARIN, hiking is more than a way to burn calories
and get some fresh air. It’s a way of life. It’s a chance to spend time with loved ones, see friends, or steal moments alone. Marin and the Bay Area in general boast dozens of clubs for every type of hiker. Looking to make your walk of faith more rigorous? The Bay Area Jewish Singles Hiking Club and the North Bay Christian Hikers group are always open to newcomers. New moms can mingle during a baby boot camp outing. John Benus of Marin Moonshiners leads moonlit hikes, always ending with a pint at the Pelican Inn. And the Mount Tamalpais State Park offers organized hikes, including educational treks led by the Mount Tamalpais Interpretive Association. With hundreds of miles of trails crisscrossing our open space and public parklands, choosing your ideal route can be a challenge. The following are some of our favorites. For these suggestions and more, go to marinmagazine.com, click on “ About Marin County” and select “Recreation.” While you’re there, check out the weather for five different zones in Marin County.
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■ FORT CRONKHITE Starting from the southernmost part of the county, the Marin Headlands offers countless long and short loops and trails. These two dogon-leash-friendly routes both start from the Rodeo Beach parking lot at Fort Cronkhite.
Old Bunker Road Loop (1.5 miles) This is a scenic, mostly paved road that circles the Rodeo Beach area. Start at the Coastal Trail trailhead at the north end of the Rodeo Beach Theory
parking lot. Wind up the fairly steep fire road,
Megan
staying to your right. The trail fl attens out and intersects with Old Bunker Road. Keep right on
Thread
Old Bunker as it circles back toward the build-
the parking lot. The road has been damaged
Loeffler
Rozae
navigated by a “ sport utility” ( jogging) stroller,
Lela
Tory
Randall
Gryson
by erosion and earthquakes but can still be
Nichols
Missoni
Schumacher
Social
Miguelina
ings via a metal gate. Continue on the paved road to Kirkpatrick Road, which leads back to
M
Park
Diane
Rose
Burch
Vince
Von
Furstenberg
though not by a wheelchair.
Hill 88 Loop—Coastal Trail to Wolf Ridge
1020
Magnolia
Avenue
Larkspur
415.464.1808
to Miwok Fire Road (5.1 miles) This longer, more strenuous hike circumnavigates Hill 8 8 above Rodeo Beach. Start at the Coastal Trail trailhead at the north end of the Rodeo Beach parking lot. Wind up the fairly steep fire road, staying to your right. Where the trail intersects with Old Bunker Road, veer to the left and look for the continuation of the trail on the right, in the middle of a small grove of cypress trees. The ascent is steep, with a rocky staircase. Veer right at the top and continue on the paved road to your left.
L AYERED F LAT P HOTO C ARD
Just before the summit, go right onto the Wolf Ridge trail, which continues across the back side of Hill 8 8 , and right again on Miwok Fire Road. Head down to the fl oor of G erbode Valley, and keep to the right. Miwok eventually hits Bunker Road. Cross the road, and walk along Rodeo Lagoon back to the parking lot. South on Hwy 101 to the Sausalito exit. Left
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onto Lateral Rd, right on Conzelman Rd, right at McCullough Rd, left on Bunker Rd. Veer left toward Fort Cronkhite. Park at the Rodeo Beach parking
1118 Magnolia Avenue, Larkspur 415.461.0120
Monday – Friday 10 AM – 6 PM Saturday 10 AM – 5PM
lot; trailhead is at the north end.
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and prepare for a steep ascent. Cross the paved
■ TENNESSEE VALLEY
■ MOUNT TAMALPAIS
Known for the easy and gentle two-mile jaunt
Within a couple hours, most hikers can reach
tersects with Cataract Trail, turn right and fol-
(popular with the stroller set) to the sandy shore
the 2,571-foot summit of the east peak from
low the trail along the creek. The trail ends at
of Tennessee Cove, this trailhead provides access
the valley floor. If you’re planning to bring your
the Rock Spring parking lot. Head south across
to many scenic loops for hikers of all ages. Most
pup, check ahead; dogs are not allowed on the
Ridgecrest Boulevard to Old Mine Trail, which
trails are not dog friendly. This hike is rigorous
trails within the Mount Tam State Park system
will end up back at Pantoll Ranger Station.
and rewarded with city and ocean views:
(except aid dogs), while on fire roads such as
Ridgecrest Road and continue until the path in-
Old Railroad Grade or Eldridge Grade, which
Steep Ravine Loop (3.5 miles)
Marincello Loop (6.5 miles)
fall under the Marin Municipal Water District
From the Pantoll Ranger Station, head south
The Marincello trailhead is at the southeast
purview, dogs are allowed on leash.
on the Old Mine Trail (southern edge of park-
corner of the parking lot located just to the right of the Miwok Stables sign. There’s a
The following two hikes take off from the Pantoll Ranger Station.
steady grade (often shared with bikes and horses) 1.2 miles up to the peak. At the top
ing lot). After about half a mile, turn right onto the Dipsea Trail, where you will have fantastic coastal views on a clear day. This is the down-
Coastal Trail to Cataract to Old Mine Trail Loop (5.8 miles)
hill portion of your loop; enjoy it, because
of the trail, take a sharp right onto Bobcat Trail, which quickly runs into the Miwok Trail.
From the Pantoll Ranger Station, cross the
connect with the Steep Ravine Trail, where the
Continue on the Miwok Trail and take a right
Panoramic Highway and head west on the
Dipsea Trail bridges Webb Creek. Turn right on
onto Old Springs Trail, which starts off by
Coastal Trail (also the Matt Davis Trail), just
Steep Ravine and begin a scenic climb along
crossing a wooden bridge and continues as a
below the Pantoll (Southside) Road. Follow the
a mystical creekbed. (A small ladder must be
narrow and scenic return to the stables and
trail through the forest and out onto Bolinas
climbed on this portion of the trail.)
parking lot.
Ridge for dramatic coastal views. At the fork,
Pantoll Ranger Station: From Mill Valley
continue on the narrow Coastal Trail, until you
Miller Ave to Montford; follow this road (which
reach Willow Camp Fire Road; take a right,
turns into Molino, then Edgewood, then Sequoia
Hwy 101 exit at Hwy 1 in Mill Valley. Left onto Tennessee Valley Rd to parking lot.
you’ll be heading up a steady incline when you
Fazio golf. Direct ski access. From your own backyard.
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Valley) and turn right onto Panoramic Hwy.
Rock Spring Loop (1.5 miles)
ne tree. Veer left onto Old Railroad Grade and
Continue to intersection with Pantoll Rd. Parking
This is a relatively flat and generally shaded
continue uphill. The slope is gradual but no-
lot is on the left.
hike. The Cataract Trail begins from the gate
ticeable. Look for Hogback Trail to the left,
From Fairfax: East on Sir Francis Drake Blvd
at the Rock Spring parking lot. The trail paral-
and take it for a steep descent back to the park-
to Pacheco Ave; turn right. Right onto Broadway
lels Cataract Creek, emerging briefly from the
ing lot. Dogs OK on leash.
Blvd. Left on Bolinas Rd, which becomes Fairfax-
foliage into the Laurel Dell meadow, where
From Pantoll Ranger station, head east on
Bolinas Rd; turn right on West Ridgecrest, Blvd
you go right onto the Mickey O’Brien Trail to
Panoramic Hwy. The Mountain Home Inn will
and right again on Pantoll Rd. Parking lot at
Barth’s Retreat. Take the connector fire road to
be on the left.
intersection with Panoramic Hwy.
the Laurel Dell Fire Road, then go right onto
From Miller Ave in Mill Valley, take Montford
the Ben Stein Trail. From here it’s another mile
to Panoramic Hwy. Park in the lot across from
back to Rock Spring.
the Mountain Home Inn, or find a spot on the
Verna Dunshee Trail (1.2 miles) Circumnavigating Mount Tam’s east peak, this
From Pantoll Ranger Station, take Pantoll
walk is ideal for those who want to get a little
Rd to the first intersection. Pull into parking lot.
exercise along with stunning 360-degree vis-
Trailhead is along the eastern edge.
tas of the entire Bay Area. The paved path is wheelchair accessible, making it easy for every-
dirt road, just past the inn.
■ MILL VALLEY Dipsea Steps to Sun Trail, Tenderfoot Loop (6.5 miles)
one—including those with limited mobility or
Old Gravity Car to Railroad Grade Loop (3.1 miles)
strollers—to enjoy the sweeping views. At a lei-
A great loop with a slight incline, steep down-
yourself as you climb—there are three sets
surely pace, the trip takes about 20 minutes. For
hill and south-facing views. Head out on Gravity
of stairs, totaling over 670 steps. At the top
more of a challenge, summit Mount Tam, trail-
Car Grade, just beyond the dirt overflow park-
of the first set, turn right and then left, and
head takes off from the same parking lot.
Start at the base of the Dipsea Steps. Pace
ing lot to the right of the Throckmorton Ridge
reconnect with the stairs on the right side of
From Pantoll Ranger Station, right onto
Fire Station. Redwood groves open up to
the road. At the top of the second set, turn
Pantoll Rd, right on Ridgecrest Blvd; follow to
chaparral shrubs and vistas and, in time, a
left; the stairs will continue a few yards later
the parking lot.
fork in the road marked by a stately madro-
on the right side of the road.
Introducing Martis Camp. A private 2,100-acre community in North Lake Tahoe. TM
Martis Camp has raised the bar for authentic Tahoe luxury. In addition to offering a premier Tom Fazio Championship Golf Course, Martis Camp will now provide access to a proposed on-site ski lift that will literally put Club members and guests on the slopes in approximately 6 minutes. The new lift would take members and guests to the top of Lookout Mountain, providing
access to the entire Northstar™ –at–Tahoe Resort Mountain—including several trails that we’re proposing to extend into Martis Camp. Think about it. Direct ski access. A Tom Fazio Golf Course. Plus a wide array of family activities and amenities. All within a private, gated mountain community sprawling across 2,100 pristine acres. It truly doesn’t get any better.
Our Phase I Sales Launch was a record-breaking success. And Phase II Reservations are still being taken, with Homesite pricing starting at $500,000. To learn more call 800-721-9005, or email us at info@martiscamp.com. The proposed lift and trail extensions are subject to approvals from Placer County and other regulatory agencies. The club amenities described above are proposed but not yet built. Access to and use of the club amenities are not included in the purchase of homesites and require separate membership, which is subject to application, approval, and payment of applicable fees and dues. Obtain and carefully review the offering circular for Martis Camp Club before making any decision to purchase a membership. All features, dimensions, drawings, conceptual renderings, plans and specifications are subject to change without notice, and Developer expressly reserves the right to modify, revise or withdraw any or all of the same in its sole discretion. Pictures and renderings are Artist Representations and are not necessarily an accurate depiction. All improvements, design and construction, are subject to first obtaining appropriate permits and approvals. Areas shown are based upon gross square footage. All prices are subject to change without notice. This advertisement does not constitute an offer to sell real property. The information provided in this advertisement is strictly for informational purposes and shall not be construed as an offer in California or any other jurisdictions where prior registration or other advance qualification of real property is required. Artist’s conceptual rendering. Subject to change.
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SEPTEMBER 2007
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Firm thighs. Lifted seats. Flat abs.
At the top of the third set, cross E dgewood Avenue and take the trail across the street that goes along the road leading to Walsh Drive. Continue past the houses on Walsh Drive and through the trail at the end of the paved road to Bay View. At the top of Bay View, turn right along Panoramic Highway and the trail will pick up across the street. Head down the steps, and keep to the right to merge onto the Sun Trail. The trail continues until you cross a paved road, which connects to the G erman Tourist Club ( a spot to stop for a drink or picnic if you like) . Continue across the bridge, where the route becomes the Redwood Trail. G reat views
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of the Pacific abound. As you head north the trail becomes the Panoramic Trail. When you reach the Panoramic Highway, cross at Mountain Home Inn and veer down E dgewood Avenue until it dead-ends.
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Tenderfoot Trailhead is a small, unmarked path off to the left at a fire hydrant just before one of the last homes on the road. Z igz ag your way back down the mountain until you reach Cascade Avenue. Keep right along the residential street to Old Mill Park. Dogs OK
SANDRA BIRD
on leash. From downtown Mill Valley, head west on
DESIGNS
Throckmorton Ave to Old Mill Park on the left (park on street). Turn left on Cascade. Stairs are alongside a driveway, at the intersection of Cascade Ave, Molino Ave and Cascade Way.
A
Blithedale Ridge Fire Road
DESIGN BUILD FIRM
(2.3 miles one way) Although a bit tricky to access, the Blithedale Ridge Fire Road is a great trail, with many options for offshoots and other trails. The fire road itself runs along the two-mile Blithedale Ridge with dramatic views. From the gate at the base of Via Vandyke, veer right, up and around the water tank at the end of the paved road. From here the path is a veritable roller coaster of ups and downs. At just under one mile there is a wide clearing ( known as Judy’ s Corners) where the Corte Madera Fire Road merges from the right; continue straight on
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the fire road to begin a major descent down the ridge. The fire road technically ends at
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the junction with the Indian Tree Fire Road (although you can continue up to the Eldridge
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Grade to the left, or down to Kent Woodlands on the right). Dogs OK on leash. From Mill Valley, take East Blithedale Ave to West Blithedale Ave. Go right on Oakdale Ave and left on Elinor Ave to Via Vandyke.
■ LARKSPUR Ladybug Loop in Baltimore Canyon (3.2 miles) From the trailhead, cross the bridge over Larkspur Creek and head up the Dawn Falls Trail. The Ladybug Trail begins on the right bank of the creek, across the second bridge on the trail. Zigzag up the valley to the King Mountain Loop Trail. As the narrow trail intersects with a wider road, turn left onto Ridgecrest Road, just beyond the chain-link gate. Follow Ridgecrest to Evergreen, turn left, and then take another left onto Crown Road, which becomes the Southern Marin Line Fire Road. Dawn Falls Trail is .3 mile on the left. There’s a
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steep descent along the banks of the Larkspur Creek, where Dawn Falls will be flowing after
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a good rain. Dogs OK on leash. Hwy 101 to Tamalpais Dr exit (west). Right on Corte Madera Ave, which becomes Magnolia Ave. Go left on Madrone Ave, which will veer to the right and become Valley Way. Trailhead is at the end of Valley Way. Parking is limited.
■ ROSS Bald Hill Loop (4.9 miles) Start at the trailhead off the parking lot and take the Phoenix Lake Fire Road counterclockwise to the Worn Springs Fire Road. The climb
53 Throckmorton Ave. Mill Valley, CA 94941
to the top of Bald Hill is unrelenting, a great
415-381-1255
workout, and it’s well worth exerting all that energy for the views! The Yolanda Trail spur is
Sacramento St. Coming This Fall
two miles up on the left. It is a beautiful climb
415-664-1855
back down to Phoenix Lake, especially in spring when the wildflowers are in full bloom. Dogs OK on leash.
info@catherinejane.net www.catherinejane.net
Hwy 101 to Sir Francis Drake Blvd exit (west). Left on Lagunitas Rd to Phoenix Lake. Parking is limited, so be prepared to walk in from the surrounding neighborhood.
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SEPTEMBER 2007
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■ SAN RAFAEL (EAST) China Camp Loop (3.4 miles) Cross North San Pedro Road and walk up the paved service road to the signed Shoreline Trail. Turn right toward the Miwok Meadows. The trail winds through the woods and wanders back through small grassy meadows. Turn left onto the Miwok Fire Trail, where, with a bit of a climb, you’ll find the Oak Ridge Trail, and veer left. A portion of the trail will cross with the McNears Fire Trail. Stay on Oak Ridge Trail to complete the loop back to the ranger station. No dogs. Hwy 101 to Sir Francis Drake Blvd. Head west. Go east approximately 5 miles to the Bullhead Flat trailhead. Park on the road.
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■ NOVATO Old Quarry Loop to the top of Mount Burdell (5.5 miles) Go through the gate and take the trail right for .4 mile; then go left at Michako Trail. Take the San Carlos Fire Road left to the Old Quarry Trail; here, veer left and up the hill. Head right on the Burdell Mountain Ridge Road to enjoy the well-earned view. Take the Rocky Cobblestone Fire Road downhill to the Middle Burdell Fire Road; turn right. Take the Sand Andreas Fire Road and head left, back to the parking area. Dogs OK on leash. Hwy 101 to San Marin Dr (west). Right on San Andreas Dr. Park at the end of the road.
■ WEST MARIN Point Reyes Lighthouse (1.2 miles) Start at the lighthouse parking lot and head uphill past the gate. The visitor center is half a mile in (open Thursday–Monday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m.). If you can, climb the 308 stairs at the lighthouse. The viewing platform is one of the best places in Marin to see the gray whale migration in early January. Hwy 101 to Sir Francis Drake Blvd exit. West on Sir Francis Drake to Olema. Right on Hwy 1 for 200 yards. Left on Bear Valley Rd. Left on Sir Francis Drake past Inverness to the headlands.
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Bolinas Ridge (11.5 miles one way)
for the touch
for the feeling
What many of us know as a picturesque undulating ridge above our beloved Stinson Beach is the consequence of millions of years of plate tectonics on the northern section of the San Andreas fault. The Bolinas Ridge Trail rises from Olema and continues through cow pastures and redwood forests as it runs parallel to Shoreline Highway and ends at Ridgecrest Boulevard on Mount Tamalpais. Vistas include Bolinas Lagoon, Inverness Ridge, Tomales Bay, and Black Mountain. The wide path is shared by bike riders, horses and hikers. Dogs on leash OK. Hwy 101 to Sir Francis Drake Blvd exit. Head west on Sir Francis Drake Blvd toward Olema. The trailhead is about three miles past the entrance to Samuel P. Taylor Park.
Coast Trail to Alamere (8.2 miles) This out-and-back hike is more about the destination than the journey, but the journey is pretty darn good. Start at the southern en-
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trance to Point Reyes National Seashore at the Palomarin trailhead. Travel north along the gradually sloped and well-maintained Coast Trail. Admire the beautiful Pacific views before turning inland, where the journey continues past two scenic lakes, the first being Bass. Just past the second, Pelican Lake, look for the small path that veers left toward the bluffs and eventually to Alamere Falls. Watch for poison oak on this part of the trail, as the path is not maintained. Hike down to the upper portion of the falls to get a memorable view of the falls dropping off the bluffs. If you are feeling surefooted, scramble down the cliff to the beach to get the full magnitude of the falls as it takes its last drop of 40 feet onto the beach sand. Rain and tides can make access tricky, so plan accordingly. Dogs OK on leash. North on Shoreline Hwy past Stinson Beach
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Continue left at the Horseshoe Hill Rd intersec-
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tion. Right on Mesa and continue several miles
Call for Reservations 415.383.3223
to the Palomarin trailhead parking lot (the last
Monday – Saturday 9am – 9pm • Sunday 10am – 7pm
mile on dirt road).
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LO O K I NG BACK
Homes With History Three Marin properties that have survived and prospered BY JIM WOOD
YO U M I G H T C O M PA R E T H E M T O T H R E E , W E L L , W O M E N O F A C E R TA I N AG E . For the past 100 years or so, they’ve been residing quietly and uniquely in three different Marin locations. There’s a grande dame in Dominican that’s undergone both reconstructive and cosmetic surgery and looks stunning; a lovely little carriage house in Mill Valley — over 110 years old — that’s had significant work done internally, but exterior-wise remains relatively untouched and quite handsome; and a third charming maiden, bless its heart, that’s located on a walkway in Belvedere and, as they say, “is about to go under the knife.” Let’s meet them one at a time — each has an interesting story to tell.
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Carriage House at The Magnolias The Mill Valley carriage house, built in 1895, is located at 230 Miller Avenue (you can’t see it from the street; unfortunately, condominiums now surround it). Its builder, George Lingard Payne, owned a San Francisco boatyard and intended the main house (still standing) and carriage house to be a summer retreat for his wife, Barbara Marie Frey, and their six children. Because Barbara Marie was from the Deep South, Payne planted magnolia trees on the property and named it “The Magnolias.” The Paynes or their heirs occupied the property for its first 50 years. “Then in 1946, mother sold the main house, the carriage house and the accompanying two and a half acres,” recalls Pat Payne Castle, “for about $18,000.” Regarding the carriage house,
OPPOSITE PAGE:
Main photo: Belvedere home built in 1913 by Dr. Florence Nightingale Ward, a San Francisco surgeon. Inset: The home as it looked just before a major restoration. THIS PAGE ABOVE: Main photo:
Circa 1903 photo (note the railroad tracks) of a home on Miller Avenue in Mill Valley built by George Lingard Payne of San Francisco. Inset: the carriage house, located behind the main house. THIS PAGE BELOW: Main photo: Queen Anne Victorian built in Dominican in the 1890s by San Rafael druggist T. C. Malone for his wife, Agnes. Inset: the home as it is today.
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Ms. Castle, who now lives in Mill Valley’s West Blithedale Canyon, remembers it as a two-stall barn, then as a garage. “On the second floor, there was a hayloft and groom’s quarters,” she adds. In 1960, the entire property was sold at an undisclosed price to Lyman and Elizabeth Emerson. Nine years later, the Emersons were approached by Skip Sommer, a Mill Valley resident and owner of a Sausalito restaurant and hotel. “I was in love with that Miller Avenue property, carriage house and all,” confesses Sommer, now a Petaluma realtor. “I wanted to buy it and build a really fine inn and restaurant.” Unfortunately for him—and possibly Mill Valley—the parcel’s size didn’t allow for adequate parking. “So I bought Millie Provert’s property in Larkspur,” Sommer says. “And started The Lark Creek Inn.” Meanwhile, by 1972, the Payne property in Mill Valley—originally built as a main house with tennis and croquet courts, as well as a Japanese tea garden and a carriage house—had been redeveloped to include
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14 townhouses on its two and a half acres. However, the carriage house and main home remained in place, with the latter permitted as a rentable triplex. Over the ensuing years the carriage house went through several owners and numerous transformations to its interior, with the exterior (including hayloft door and conical roof tower) still intact, save for the addition of a decorative iron garden gate from San Francisco’s St. Francis Hotel and a 100-year-old front door from Stanford University. In the past three years, the carriage house has changed owners
Melanie Kessler
twice, and it recently sold for a third time—
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with prices in the million and a half range. “We plan to create a master bedroom suite, then do some painting and recarpeting,” says the house’s current owner. “Once we’re inside the carriage house,” she adds, “we’re in a world all our own.”
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The “Grande Dame” in Dominican An anecdote about this San Rafael home dates to the mid-1890s. It seems a druggist named T. C. Malone built two magnificent Queen Anne homes on a street adjacent to what is now Dominican University. Both houses (still standing) were designed by Petaluma architect Brainerd Jones and, from beginning, one of them caught the fancy of Agnes Malone, the druggist’s wife. But just prior to moving in, Mr. Malone rented Agnes’s favorite home to an impressive California state senator. And for the rest of her life (she died in 1963, at age 87) Agnes Malone was said to have looked longingly at the home she’d always wanted to occupy. And what a house it was (and still is). Built during America’s Industrial Revolution, this four-level home had (and still has) an expansive front veranda, a widow’s walk plus a rounded tower, both with conical roofs, and
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a front-facing gable—not to mention spindles and brackets everywhere. A scouring of Marin County title records
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suggests the property remained in the ownership of Malone or his heirs well into the 1950s. During World War II it was partitioned, and those involved in the war effort—primarily men working at Marinships in Sausalito—occupied its many rooms. “My folks bought the house in 1957,” says Peter Stragnola, who currently lives nearby. Then in 1963, the Stragnolas, Vincent James and Antoinette, sold the home to Geoffrey Lewis, an accomplished artist who would own it for seven years.
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“I bought that fantastic house in 1970,” proudly states San Rafael civic leader Ann Brebner. “The artist who sold it to me, a man named Lewis, was certain an earthquake was
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about to destroy the entire neighborhood, so he moved to Oregon.” Brebner, who at the time was a single mom raising two boys, would later become the driving force in transforming
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an abandoned Fourth Street movie theater
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
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SEPTEMBER 2007
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day’s Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center. “As a family, we loved that house,” she recalls. “We also had all sorts of screenings and parties
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that film people would attend.” In 1993, Brebner sold the home to “a man named Skaff,” and nine years later, he sold it to
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the Robert and Christina Jennings family, quite possibly only the seventh owners of the home in its 110 years of existence. “It’s a wonderful old house,” says Rob Jennings. “There’s a great spirit to it.” The Jennings spent two years and considerable money faithfully restoring the property to its 1890s greatness. “We kept the original glass, but had all the double-hung windows completely rebuilt,” says Jennings. “We used only craftspeople and specialists, like Nowell’s Lighting in Sausalito, to do the work and supply us with hardware and fixtures.” In its present configuration, the
158 Throckmorton Avenue, Mill Valley
388-8262
home has a basement, family room, five bedrooms, four full baths—about 3,000 square feet in all.
A Beauty-in-Waiting in Belvedere For historical perspective, the Panama Canal was completed in October of 1913. That’s about when Dr. Florence Nightingale Ward, a San Francisco surgeon, finished a Mediterranean-style villa she’d built at 10 Pomander Walk in Belvedere. Despite no Central American canal, Dr. Ward had made four trips to Europe to study obstetrics and gynecology prior to building her Belvedere retreat. In 1908, at age 48, she divorced her philandering husband and raised their two daughters alone. The Belvedere property was a getaway for them, as Dr. Ward had a yearround home in the city, where she practiced at a small hospital/clinic she owned. Rumors have persisted that architect Julia Morgan —of Hearst Castle fame — did a rough sketch of Dr. Ward’s villa as Morgan often did for close friends, which Dr. Ward, according to Belvedere historian Beverly Bastion, clearly was. However, no documentation of such
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del forte denim now available! a role exists. In 1919, Dr. Ward died at age 59 without having spent much time at 10 Pomander Walk. In the 1920s, the property was purchased by Joseph and Helen Pugh and would remain in their ownership for nearly 50 years. “During the 1950s,” remembers Joan (Millzner) Palermo, who as a young girl lived next-door, “Joe—he was in the marine insurance business—would always sit and smoke a cigar while Helen puttered in the garden.” Palermo, now the town of Tiburon’s administrative receptionist, recalls the Pomander property as “having a sundeck covered in wisteria and below that, blackberries we’d pick and a tree that By the mid-1960s, the Pughs, according to accounts, had allowed the property to fall into disrepair. After Helen Pugh’s passing, it was acquired by Robin and Loretta Taylor (now living in Corte Madera), who re-
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stored much of the home’s former magic and, in 1998, sold it to the present owners, Paul Vincent Wiseman, president of the Wiseman
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Group, an international interior design firm, and Richard Snyder, an attorney. Wiseman and Snyder, after living at 10 Pomander Walk for nine years, recently moved to Mill Valley while the property undergoes a complete restoration. “A home needs time to tell you its story,” explains Wiseman, a nationally known designer. “And this home has good energy about it, along with incredible views.” Included in the latter are Corinthian and Angel islands, Belvedere and Tiburon, Mount Tamalpais, Sausalito and the Golden Gate Bridge. Wiseman sees his personal project taking as long as two years, costing into seven figures, and including such tasks as deepening
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the basement and replacing all the aluminum window casings with wooden frames. “Because
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Pomander is a ‘Walk,’ not a street,” he adds,
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“the house has never seen the likes of an automobile; you might say there’s an almost sacred
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A RT
Art Everywhere You Look September festivals keep local art lovers’ calendars full BY ANNE CRUMP RAY eptember signals festival time along
S
Frequently ranked among the coun-
events that range from artist receptions to
the Sausalito waterfront, as the an-
try’s top outdoor festivals, the Sausalito Art
poetry readings—in five contiguous spaces
nual Sausalito Art Festival returns to
Festival caters to both art lovers and casual
that date from the 1850s.
Marinship Park for its 55th anniversary over
visitors looking for a nice way to spend the
On September 15 the museum hosts its
Labor Day weekend. A juried fine-art event
day outside. Best of all, proceeds benefit lo-
most-anticipated annual event: the Bolinas
that features more than 20,000 original
cal nonprofit organizations, ensuring that
Museum Art Auction, which also serves as the
works of art, dozens of musical perform-
the area’s cultural resources stay strong all
organization’s biggest fundraiser. Formerly
ances, and the requisite array of tempting
year long.
held in the museum’s outdoor courtyard, the
food and beverages, the festival attracts
Sausalito Art Festival, Marinship Park,
auction moved three years ago to the near-
more than 50,000 visitors from the Bay
Sausalito, 415.331.3757, sausalitoartfestival.
by barn of patrons Susie and Mark Buell,
Area and beyond to Sausalito’s shores, cel-
org; 9–6 September 1–2, 9–5 September 3;
which can better accommodate the event’s
ebrating the city’s history as an artist en-
$20 general, $10 seniors, $5 youth ages 6–12,
roughly 225 attendees. The event compris-
clave and picturesque port.
free for children under 6; tickets to the open-
es a cocktail reception and a live auction
ing gala are $175–$2,500, available by call-
of approximately 75 lots that include both
ing 415.331.3738
fine art and non-art items. Among this year’s
The festivities kick off with a black-tie gala on Friday, August 31, where patrons can preview artwork, meet participating art-
offerings are artworks by Bay Area stars
ists, enjoy big-band entertainment and dine
TUCKED AWAY ON A narrow road in one
Michael Gregory, Barry McGee and Clare
on gourmet fare. Saturday through Monday
of Marin’s most beloved coastal towns, the
Rojas and a rare folio of eight signed and il-
the festival grounds are open all day, allow-
Bolinas Museum has the distinction of be-
lustrated broadsides containing poems by
ing visitors to peruse works from nearly 300
ing Marin’s only fine art museum. Founded
Robert Duncan, Lawrence Ferlinghetti, Allen
artists, check out a changing lineup of per-
in 1983 as a repository for historical photo-
Ginsberg and others alongside artwork by
formers and picnic on Richardson Bay. A
graphs and artifacts, the museum now pres-
Jess Collins.
dedicated children’s park offers amenities to
ents an assortment of historical and contem-
Auction items will be on view in a pre-
keep the kiddies occupied.
porary fine-art exhibitions—not to mention
view exhibition at the Bolinas Museum from
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August 17 through September 14 during
Nearly 150 exhibitors set up booths
Based in Bolinas, Robertson has a love
regular museum hours, and on September
among the redwoods, joined by representa-
for flowers that transcends her art practice.
15 from 10 a.m. to noon. Auction tickets are
tives from local nonprofit organizations, food
Her own garden is a showpiece that serves
$45 each and include food, wine, parking
purveyors and a variety of performers. The
as a setting for her open studio activities
and a bid card. Advance reservations are
setting is beautiful and the atmosphere is
as well as inspiration for her paintings and
required.
relaxed, encouraging families to spend the
prints. She says in her artist’s statement, “My
Bolinas Museum, 48 Wharf Rd., Bolinas,
weekend enjoying the wealth of natural and
challenge and my goal is bringing together
415.868.2006, bolinasmuseum.org; 1–5 Fri,
human-made beauty that Marin has to offer.
the clear eye of a gardener and the magic
12–5 Sat–Sun; auction ticket $45
Mill Valley Fall Arts Festival, Old Mill
vision of an artist.”
Park, Mill Valley, 415.381.8090, mvfaf.org; 10–
Robertson’s exhibition continues a long-
FOR MORE THAN 50 YEARS the Mill Valley
6 September 15, 10–5 September 16; $7 gen-
running tradition of exhibitions program-
Fall Arts Festival has lured visitors to the syl-
eral, free for children 12 and under
ming at the library, which hosts quarterly
van burg north of the Golden Gate Bridge
presentations related to plants, gardens or
for art, camaraderie and community spirit.
THROUGH SEPTEMBER 30 the Helen
Golden Gate Park. All artworks on view are
This year’s festival takes place September
Crocker Russell Library of Horticulture at the
available for sale, with 25 percent of the
15 and 16, with another stellar lineup of art-
San Francisco Botanical Garden features an
proceeds benefiting the library. Robertson’s
ists, craftspeople and entertainment slated
array of garden-inspired watercolors and
exhibition includes approximately 35 water-
to take Old Mill Park by storm.
prints by Marin artist Sally Robertson. Titled
colors plus 150 signed and numbered prints.
This festival was devised as a means of
“A Passion for Flowers: From the Garden
Admission to the library is free and open to
strengthening the link between art and com-
to the Vase,” the exhibition showcases
the public seven days a week.
munity by providing a venue for emerging
Robertson’s intricate botanical composi-
San Francisco Botanical Garden at
and established artists, giving the public an
tions, often presenting depictions of flowers
Strybing Arboretum, Golden Gate Park,
opportunity to interact with them, and rais-
in their garden settings paired with still lifes
Ninth Ave. at Lincoln Way, San Francisco,
ing the profile of artists in general.
of formal arrangements.
415.661.1316, sfbotanicalgarden.org; 10–4 daily
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SEPTEMBER 2007
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fine ar t & fur niture galler y studio333
Linda Saytes
s a u s a l i t o
oil on canvas
333a caledonia, sausalito • 415.331.8272
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‘Crescent Moon’
www.saytesart.com
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24” x 24”
415.824.5756
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Kathleen Dunne
VERONICA NAPOLES Mill Valley Fall Arts Festival September 15 - 16, 2007 www.VeronicaNapoles.com Pictured Above: Gravedad (Gravity) 2007 24” x 36” Oil on Linen, River Rock and Wire
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Glendalough, Ireland #3
September 27- October 31 Artist’s Reception Friday, October 5 • 6 to 8 p.m. The
Art Bar
34 Main Street, Tiburon • 415.435.3999 • www.artbar.us
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CA LE NDAR
SEPTEMBER ARTS & EVENTS GUIDE
Mama Mia! at the Orpheum Theatre September 5—22.
THEATER
Thru 29 Henry IV The king’s rule is under
Thru September Twelfth Night The North Bay Shakespeare Company performs this classic romantic comedy of unrequited love and gender confusion. Hamilton Amphitheatre (Novato). 415.868.1115, nbshakes.org
attack, so why is his heir Prince Hal hanging out in Boar’s Head Tavern with that drunken lying fat man, Falstaff? Find out the answer and more in this Marin Shakespeare Company production. Forest Meadows Amphitheatre (San Rafael). 415.499.4488, marinshakespeare.org
Thru 2 Avenue Q The Tony award–winning
5—22 Mamma Mia! The smash hit musical
musical about trying to make it in New York with big dreams and a tiny bank account. Orpheum Theatre (SF). 415.512.7770, shnsf.com
Thru 9 Beauty and the Beast Disney’s
based on the songs of ABBA returns to San Francisco as part of the Best of Broadway Season. The production tells the story of family and friendship on a Greek Island. Orpheum Theatre (SF). 415.512.7770, shnsf.com
magical tale comes to life when Belle, played by former Miss Sonoma County Amiee Conn, visits a castle cast under an evil spell. 6th Street Playhouse (Santa Rosa). 707.523.4185, 6thstreetplayhouse.com
14—October 21 Blithe Spirit A comfy country home is shaken when a deceased dinner guest takes up residency and embarks on a sinister scheme to win back her
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husband’s love. Ross Valley Players (Ross). 415.456.9555, rossvalleyplayers.org
27 & 28 Ghosts of Tiburon & Belvedere History takes a musical spin when the Landmarks Society presents an original play by Maria Woodward that tracks local landmarks, historical names and personalities. Tiburon-Belvedere Landmarks Society (Tiburon). 415.381.8198, landmarks-society.org
COMEDY Tuesdays Mark Pitta & Friends You’ll have to see the show to find out who’s performing but it’s worth getting a chance to watch big-name headliners and up-and-coming comics work on new material. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600 142throckmortontheatre.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM
19 Men, Women, Love and Chaos Join John Gray (Men Are from Mars, Women Are from Venus) and Warren Farrell (Why Men Are the Way They Are) as they dig beneath the surface of the two different cultures of men and women. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com
30 Comedy Day This free outdoor comedy concert features nearly 30 of today’s top performers. Look for local favorites Mark Pitta, Will Durst and Doug Ferrari to keep the laughs coming. Sharon Meadow (SF). comedyday.com
MUSIC Thru 9 Summer Music Series An eclectic selection of music from jazz to swing, folk and Latin will take the stage and enhance the shopping experience in Corte Madera. Town Center (Corte Madera). 415.924.2961, shoptowncenter.com
tual redemption battle for one man’s soul in Wagner’s tale of tragedy and transcendence. San Francisco Opera (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com
19 San Francisco Symphony Gala The 96th season kicks off with a patrons’ dinner, symphony supper and “symphonix” dinner. The opening performance will feature Renee Fleming performing Ravel’s Shéhérazade and Puccini arias. Davies Symphony Hall and City Hall (SF). 415.503.5500, sfsymphony.org
DANCE 15 Viva Las Americas Celebrate Hispanic Heritage Month with this showcase of music and dance commemorating the artistry of Mexico and Central and South America. Mariachis will also be on hand to serenade visitors as they stroll throughout the pier. Pier 39 (SF). pier39.com
GALLERIES 2 Jazz Roots Trio Part of the Town Center summer music series; bring the family for a fun afternoon of jazz tunes. In front of Bryan’s Fine Foods in the Town Center (Corte Madera). 415.924.2961, shoptowncenter.com 7—28 Samson and Delilah Russian mezzosoprano Olga Borodina reprises her 2001 performance as the tantalizing temptress in a revival of Saint-Saëns’ biblical epic. Tenor Clifton Forbis plays the Old Testament hero who loses his heart, his hair and finally his strength. San Francisco Opera (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com
9 Em K This acoustical guitarist offers music lovers an afternoon of rocking guitar action. Em K plays a variety of steel-stringed acoustic guitars fusing classical and rock techniques. Town Center (Corte Madera). 415.924.2961, shoptowncenter.com
14 Salsa and Cumbia with Los Compas Enjoy this special Mexican Independence Day event with one of the hardest-hitting salsa and cumbia bands in San Francisco. The Dance Palace (Point Reyes Station). 415.663.1075, dancepalace.org
18—October 12 Tannhäuser The lure of pleasure and the yearning for spiriMARINMAGAZINE.COM
Shakespeare Gets A New Home Luckily for Shakespeare at Stinson (and North Marin) when the company lost its
MARIN Aperture f64 Gallery Waters Edge Five black-and-white photographers, including Paul Caponigao and Brad Cole, portray the beautiful and mystical qualities of water, tides, and coasts; September 15—November 3. 635 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo. 415.482.0480 Art Abloom Gabriella Spina Drake founded the gallery in Santa Barbara in 1990 and relocated in 2002 to Marin. The gallery offers a full spectrum art experience in a creative and noncompetitive environment. 735 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.256.1112, artabloom.com Artisan Art Gallery All Things Great and Small Size does matter in this regional juried show featuring large works, over 3 feet in any direction, and small works, less than 11 inches, September 4—October 2. 853 Fourth St, (San Rafael). 415.460.5208, artisansartgallery.org Art Works Downtown Sculpture Exhibition A juried show by Bruce Hasson who is known for his symbolic sculptures, thru September 28. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119, artworksdowntown,org
lease in Stinson, there was a beautiful amphitheater—that Artistic Director Jeffrey Trotter calls an absolute gem— waiting for it in Novato. Now the North Bay Shakespeare Company, the new space at the Hamilton Amphitheater (which was formerly used for USO performances during World War II) will provide a backdrop for a contemporary production of Twelfth Night. The director Mary Beth Cavanaugh, who’s also at the helm of the Berkeley Repertory School of Theater, explains this Shakespeare play is all about excess. “All the major characters are at an extreme point and something has to happen,” says Cavanaugh. “Whether Shakespeare intended it or not, these characters are about to have an epiphany.”
Twelfth Night runs thru September at the Hamilton Amphitheater (Novato). 415.868.1115, nbshakes.org
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Claudia Chapline Gallery Bay Area Painters and Sculptors Work by Marianna Goodheart, Pamela Blotner and others, thru September 3. 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach. 415.868.2308, cchapline.com Donna Seager Gallery Women’s Work Themed pieces by Lisa Kokin, Laura Kimpton and Nancy Youdelman, thru September. 851 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.454.4229, donnaseagergallery.com Edith Caldwell Gallery Contemporary art from a variety of artists, thru September. 819 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.331.5003, edithcaldwell.com Falkirk Cultural Center Photographic Narratives A survey of contemporary photography by Ann Baldwin, Lawrie Brown and others, September 14—December 29. 1408 Mission Ave, San Rafael. 415.485.3438, falkirkculturalcenter.org Gallery Bergelli New paintings by self-taught artist Jeff Faust, who studied the art and lives of the masters, uncovering their problem-solving techniques. From this study, experimentation and self-discovery, comes unique style and vision, thru September. 483 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.945.9454, gallerybergelli.com Gallery Route One Then, Now and Beyond Artist Lorraine Almeida exhibits a retrospective of her work that has spanned the last 40 years, thru September. 11101 Highway One, (Point Reyes Station). 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org O’Hanlon Center for the Arts Art that Speaks: Blending Word and Image A juried show with works by local artists; on display September 4—28. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org Robert Beck Gallery Contemporary and early California plein-air works of art on display. 222 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.456.7898 Robert Green Fine Arts Paintings from the ’40s and ’50s by artist John Grillo who is considered the first and purest action painter on the West Coast, thru October. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgfinearts.com 152
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Sam the Butcher Reconstruction Oil and acryclic paintings by art professor Bryce Zinokurov. 19 Ross Common, Ross. 415.902.1019 Studio 333 Affordable studio space for local artists where they can display their talents. Art lessons also available. 333A Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.8272, studio333.info
The Season of the Silver Screen 55TH SUBSCRIPTION SEASON
The Art Bar Outstanding paintings, sculpture and glass works by emerging and internationally acclaimed artists. Kathleen Dunne exhibit, thru September. 34 Main St, Tiburon. 415.435.3999, artbar.us The Painters Place An exhibit of original paintings and prints by gallery artists including Stan Painter, Christine Coy, Dan Cooper, Barbara Lawrence, Barbara Banthien, Charlotte Britton and Krystal Allen. Also on display will be various antique and contemporary prints, photos and mirrors in customfinished frames created exclusively by the Painters Place, thru October. 1139 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.461.0351, thepaintersplace.com
SAN FRANCISCO
Alasdair Neale, Music Director
P RO G R A M O N E
P RO G R A M F O U R
Potemkin
ScreenGems
Alasdair Neale, conductor October 7 & 9, 2007, 7:30pm Shostakovich/Eisenstein The Battleship Potemkin A screening of the 1925 silent film classic with live orchestral score.
P RO G R A M T WO
ArtHaus The Jazz Collection Paintings and drawings inspired by music. Work by Serena Bocchino, thru September 29. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com Berggruen Gallery Paintings by New York artist Isca Greenfield-Sanders, who is best known for her nostalgic oil paintings based on ’50s and ’60s photographs she buys on eBay, thru September 29. Ongoing work. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com Caldwell Snyder Gallery Recent paintings by Igor and Marina Work by these Russian artists on display thru September. 341 Sutter St, 415.531.6755, caldwellsnyder.com Elins Eagles Smith Gallery An exhibition of figurative paintings by William Thelphilus Brown from the last 40 years, thru September. 49 Geary St, Ste 520, 415.981.1080, eesgallery.com Fraenkel Gallery Something Was There: Early Works by Diane Arbus Little-known work from 1958 to 1962 that is believed to MARINMAGAZINE.COM
Alasdair Neale, conductor February 24 & 26, 2008, 7:30pm
Alasdair Neale conducts classical music works that have become famous themes from notable films. You’ll recognize popular excerpts from the soundtracks of 2001: A Space Odyssey, Platoon, Schindler’s List, Chocolat, Fantasia, The Right Stuff and more.
P RO G R A M F I V E
The Red Violin MellifluousCello Alasdair Neale, conductor Elizabeth Pitcairn, violin November 4 & 6, 2007, 7:30pm Beethoven Overture to Leonore No. 3 Mendelssohn Violin Concerto Brahms Symphony No. 2
Alasdair Neale, conductor • Hai-Ye Ni, cello March 30 & April 1, 2008, 7:30pm Jalbert Fire and Ice Haydn Cello Concerto No. 1 Dvor̆ák Symphony No. 7
Ms. Pitcairn performs on the legendary 1720 “Red” Mendelssohn Stradivarius that helped inspire the Academy Award-winning film, The Red Violin.
P RO G R A M S I X
P RO G R A M T H R E E
Alasdair Neale, conductor The Marin Symphony Chorus April 27 & 29, 2008, 7:30pm McPhee Tabuh-Tabuhan Orff Carmina Burana
RussianGreats
Alasdair Neale, conductor • Vadim Gluzman, violin January 20 & 22, 2008, 7:30pm Stravinsky Divertimento from The Fairy's Kiss Stravinsky Symphony in Three Movements Tchaikovsky Violin Concerto
Carmina!
Thanks to our 2007/08 season media sponsors: Marin Magazine, Classical 102.1 KDFC and the Marin Independent Journal.
Free pre-concert talks. Post-concert Wrap Parties with the artists. www.marinsymphony.org Single tickets at $27, $50 and $65 now on sale at 415.499.6800.
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be the cornerstone for Arbus’s later, more famous pieces, September 6—October 27. 3049 Geary St, 415.981.2661, fraenkelgallery.com Frey Norris Gallery Stories for Bad Children A 21st-century look into the notion of what it means to be bad in the mind of a child, by artists Kate Tedman and Eric Siemens, otherwise known as Kate Eric. The piece is intended to “scare kids straight” and resonate with adulthood fears of the unknown, September 6— October 15. 456 Geary St, 415.346.7812 freynorris.com Gallery Paule Anglim Work by painter, performance artist, musician and filmmaker Clare Rojas along with pieces by Portuguese visual artist Miguel Branco, thru September 29. 14 Geary St, 415.433.2710, gallerypauleanglim.com George Krevsky Gallery Ruth Gikow: About People This is the second solo exhibition of artworks by Ruth Gikow and includes paintings from the estate that have never been
exhibited, thru September 15. 77 Geary St (San Francisco). 415.397.9748, georgekrevskygallery.com Gregory Lind Gallery The Beginning. The Middle. The End. Painting, sculpture and installation by Chris Duncan, who pursues the visible threads between nature, science and spirituality; September 5—October 13. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com Hackett-Freedman Gallery Aparchai Recent still life paintings by local artist David Ligare. The artist’s renderings are of simple offerings such as bread, wine and figs, which are placed in an altar-like setting and bathed in the late-afternoon light, September 6—October 27. 250 Sutter St, 415.362.7152, hackettfreedman.com Hang Art and Hang Art Annex A solo show by San Francisco graffiti artist Dave Warnke and an abstract group show by Dana Chen, Jen Damas and Addie Shevlin; thru September. 556 & 567 Sutter St, 415.434.4264, hangart.com
Images of the North Celebrating a Proud Heritage Sculptures by Alaskan Inupiat artists Kipo Tetpon and John Tetpon are on display, thru September 15. 2036 Union St, 415.673.1273, imagesnorth.com Jack Hanley Gallery Gallery artist Simon Evans with Learn to Read, thru September 2. 395/389 Valencia St, 415.522.1623, jackhanley.com John Pence Gallery Summer in San Francisco A group exhibit featuring contemporary American realism, September 1. 750 Post St, 415.441.1138, johnpence.com Linda Saytes Ongoing work by San Francisco painter. Hunters Point Shipyard Bldg 101, Studio 2120, 415.824.5756, saytesart.com Meyerovich Gallery New etchings by San Francisco–trained artist Richard Serra. His work can be seen at UCSF and the Gap headquarters in downtown San Francisco, on display thru September 22. 251 Post St, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com
More than 130 fine artists Live Musical Entertainment Food&Beverages Children’s Entertainment Graphics / Prints / Drawings / Paintings Sculpture / Photography / Jewelry Ceramics / Glass / Woodwork / Clothing Fiber / Metals / Leather / Toys / More
Admission $7 Under 12 FREE Student/Senior $5 FREE Parking & Shuttle at Tam High Parking Lots
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Mill Valley
Fall Arts Festival Old Mill Park
Sept15&16
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Newmark Gallery Toru Sugita: New Works Born in Shiga, Japan, in 1964, Toru Sugita trained in fine art and printmaking at Kyoto University and San Francisco State University. His work can be seen at the Achenbach Foundation of Graphic Arts and Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, on display September 4—September 29. 251 Post St, Ste 412, 415.392.3692 newmarkgallery.com Paul Thiebaud Recent Paintings by Philadelphia-born artist David Fertig, who is known for his renditions of the Napoleonic wars, September 4—November 3. 718 Columbus Ave, 415.434.3055, paulthiebaudgallery.com Rena Bransten Gallery Paintings and works on paper by Bay Area artist John Bankston, who is known for his representations of masculinity, September 6—October 13. 77 Geary St, 415.982.3292, renabranstengallery.com
MUSEUMS MARIN Bolinas Museum The 15th annual art auction and gala features work by artists from the Bay Area, including pieces by Wendy Schwartz, Christin Coy, John McCormick and Inez Storer. After the auction enjoy music, dinner and wine at the Buell Barn, September 15 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org
Craving Asian?
Marin History Museum Time to Play Toys from years past are on display in this new exhibit, thru October 12 (San Rafael). 415.454.8538, marinhistory.org Marin Museum of Contemporary Art Attend the grand opening of Marin’s newest museum on September 1. The museum’s purpose is to engage diverse audiences from art professionals to those unfamiliar with contemporary art. The Fourth National Show will be on display thru September 23. The exhibit presents works created by living artists across the nation (Novato). 415.506.0137 Marin Museum of the American Indian Sacred Rock Art of California: A Spectacular Diversity California has some of the most diverse rock art in the world. Pigments will be on display along with photographs of work MARINMAGAZINE.COM
SEARCH BY TOWN OR CUISINE AT MARINMAGAZINE.COM
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that is believed to be over 8,000 years old, thru October (Novato). 415.897.4064, marinindian.com
BAY AREA Asian Art Museum Yoshitoshi’s Strange Tales: Woodblock Prints from Edo to Meiji One hundred prints by Taiso Yoshitoshi are featured in this two-series exhibit. The first series is from the beginning of Yoshitoshi’s career and the other from the end. The two are stylistically so unlike that they could be by different artists, thru September 2 (SF). 415.581.3500 asianart.org de Young Hiroshi Sugimoto The extraordinary 30-year career of photographer Hiroshi Sugimoto is celebrated in this retrospective of 120 luminous photographs, made from 1976 to the present. He is one of Japan’s most important contemporary artists, known for his multiple series of hauntingly beautiful black-and-white photographs, which explore the themes of time, memory, dreams, and natural histories, thru September 23 (SF). 415.863.3330, thinker.org
Exploratorium The Breaking Ceremony Scottish artist Aeneas Wilder created Untitled No 128 out of wood, laboriously adding to it day by day, through the tenday building process. On Labor Day, the Exploratorium will break the sculpture, and the public can watch what represents copious hours of labor and focused attention fall to the floor, reduced to the materials it originated from, September 3 (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu Legion of Honor Rodin and Henry Moore: Masterpieces of Sculpture The Rodin installation includes many of the original gifts from Alma de Bretteville Spreckels and a bronze statue of Claude Lorraine given by the Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Foundation, which demonstrate the artist’s radical approach to sculpture and his link with the modern era. Modern sculptor Henry Moore is represented in two galleries by a large tapestry, prints, drawings and maquettes from the collection of Leonard and Sophie Davis, thru October 7. The Art of Instruction An exhbition of books from past centuries that were intended to instruct, thru September 9 (SF). 415.863.3330, legionofhonor.org
Museum of Craft & Folk Art Evolution of the Ukulele: The story of Hawaii’s Jumping Flea Explore the history of this popular instrument. What are considered some of the finest ukuleles ever crafted will be on display in a hands-on educational section of the gallery, thru October 21 (SF). 415.227.4888, mocfa.org Plaza Arts Center Running Fence Recycled, A Piece of Art History Fine fiber-artworks created by California artists out of the rare, historic panels of Christo and JeanneClaude’s Running Fence of 1976. Featured artists include Deborah Alastra, Regula Allenspach Weill, Liz Berg, Kay Carlson, Claudia Chapline, Scott Cilmi and others, September 19—October 15 (Healdsburg). 707.431.1970, plazaartscenter.org SFMOMA Martin Munkacsi: Think While You Shoot The former sportwriters photographs represent the speed and energy of modern life. His pictures have inspired some of the best photographers in history, including Richard Avedon and Henri Cartier-Bresson, thru September 16 (SF). 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org
Do not miss this important and lovely event! Enjoy a wonderful celebration while helping to protect and restore our beautiful Bay.
WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2007, 6:00—9:00 P.M. ALEXANDRA’S, AT THE TOP OF THE WESTIN ST. FRANCIS, UNION SQUARE
• Special guest speaker Lieutenant Governor John Garamendi with Kate Kelly as Master of Ceremonies • Decadent food and wine, featuring prominent Bay Area chefs & wineries • Enticing silent and live auctions • Spectacular Bay views EVENT CHAIRS: Nancy Carlson & Janet Cohen Tickets: $150 per person • Sponsorships from $500/$1,000/$2,500/$5,000/$10,000 For more sponsorship information and benefits, please contact: Kristen Dowd Addicks • (415) 506-0150 x24 • addicks@bay.org
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The Bay Institute works to protect and restore the ecosystems of San Francisco Bay, the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, and the rivers, streams, and watersheds tributary to the Estuary.
500 Palm Drive, Suite 200 Novato, CA 94949 • (415) 506-0150
www.bay.org MARINMAGAZINE.COM
YBCA Joachim Schmid: Photoworks This Berlin-based artist has scoured the streets around photo booths and Internet webcam sites for the raw materials he uses in his craft. He invites us to question the nature of authorship and the role of photography, thru October 14 (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org
FAMILIES/KIDS MARIN Thru 9 Joshua’s Journey: A Black Cowboy Rides the Chisholm Trail Attendees will be introduced to life during the trail drive era as seen through the eyes of a 16-year-old boy. Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, baykidsmuseum.org
BAY AREA 8 California State Yo-Yo Championships Tricks like the Atom Smasher, Walk the Dog and Boingy Boingy are no match for competitors at this American Yo-Yo Association sanctioned event. Players will compete in
freestyle divisions, performing a three-minute synchronized routine set to music—all for the chance to be named California’s best. Exploratorium (SF). 415.561.0363, exploratorium.edu
14 Virtual Unreality: Interactive Digital Artworks Using Game Technology This new interactive exhibition brings together three digital artworks by internationally known artists that use game technology to explore the unreality of virtual landscapes. Exploratorium (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu
19 Science on the Stage: Joan’s Brain In this production a young Joan is influenced by both her wild, socially experimenting friend and her neuroscientist godfather. As she develops an intellectual curiosity about the science of the brain, Joan leans toward a career in neuroscience. In an ironic twist, after she has earned her degree, she must usher her godfather through an extremely difficult battle with brain cancer. Exploratorium (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu
EVENTS Tuesdays and Thursdays Doodlebug Knitting Night Learn the basics of crocheting or felting, expand basic knowledge and try something new with fellow enthusiasts. Doodlebug (San Anselmo). 415.456.5989, doodlebugmarin.com
Thru October 6 Film Night in the Park The annual cinematic event is back. Catch a flick outdoors at a community park in Marin or San Francisco on the new wide screen. Features include a tribute to Paul Newman, plus screenings of digitally animated feature films created by Marin residents, including Happy Feet and Open Season. Various parks (SF/Marin). 415.453.4333, filmnight.org Thru November 4 Chomp! San Francisco’s Conservatory of Flowers becomes a Little Shop of Horticultural Horrors with an exhibition of carnivorous plants. Visitors enter the Big Bog, a swampy paradise for meat-eating plants like the white trumpets of the American Southeast, the pitcher plants of Borneo and the sundews of
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South Africa. Conservatory of Flowers (SF). 415.666.7001, conservatoryofflowers.org
1—3 Sausalito Art Festival The annual openair event has been attended by over one million visitors during the past 54 years. This year more than 1,200 artists vied for the 260 juried positions available at the festival. Featured art includes sculpture, painting, metalwork, photography, ceramics and more. The art is complemented by two stages of nonstop entertainment and culinary temptations. The event raises money for local organizations and charities each year. Army Corps of Engineers Bay Model Visitor Center and Marinship Park (Sausalito). 415.705.5555, sausalitoartfestival.org
1—3 Experience the Record Plant For the
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first time the historic building that’s home to one of the most renowned music recording studios in the United States will open its doors for a public tour. The studio has been used by Fleetwood Mac, Carlos Santana, Dave Matthews and others (Sausalito). 415.332.6100, plantstudios.com
1—3 West Marin Wild The wildlife, wild waters and wild beauty of West Marin are showcased by Bay Area artists at this Environmental Action Commmittee of West Marin art show. 415.663.9314, eacmarin.org
1—8 International Knarr Regatta Don’t miss the championship race that has sailors from Norway, Denmark and America vying for the win. This year’s event boasts six skippers from Marin, including past champions Knud Wibroe and Larry Drew. During the kickoff, skippers will start the day with a boat rotation, which assigns different boats for each of the six race days—never their own. After a practice race the 25-piece Deutscher Music Berlin Band will play the national anthems during a champagne flag-raising ceremony. Seven times the Americans have been named champions; cheer them on throughout the week. San Francisco Yacht Club (Tiburon). sfyc.org
2 Belvedere-Tiburon Landmarks Now Open The Railroad–Ferry Depot Museum, the Landmarks Art and Garden Center, the S.S. China Cabin and Old St. Hilary’s Landmark are now open to the public. BelvedereTiburon Landmarks Society (Tiburon). 415.435.1853, landmarks-society.org MARINMAGAZINE.COM
8 Dipsea Hike and Run Support Zero Breast Cancer’s 5th annual event with a climb up the famous Dipsea steps. Follow the Sun Trail to the Tourist Club and continue on the Redwood Trail until you reach the Mountain Home Inn. From there, the course trail will follow Edgewood back down to the Dipsea steps and back to Old Mill Park for a posthike family picnic celebration. The entire route is approximately 5.5 miles. Old Mill Park (Mill Valley). 415.507.1949, breastcancerwatch.org
14 San Francisco Parks Trust Fundraiser Don’t miss this party, which features catering by McCall’s, decor by Robert Fountain and surprise musical entertainment. Proceeds from the event will support San Francisco’s parks, open spaces, recreational programs, gardens and historical park landmarks. Golden Gate Park Music Concourse (SF). 415.750.5107, sfpt.org 15 Dance Palace Duck Derby This wacky, fun, family-friendly race of little yellow rubber ducks down Papermill Creek benefits the Dance Palace Community Center. Papermill Creek (Point Reyes). 415.663.1075, dancepalace.org
15 Great American Blues and BBQ Festival
Decoration
Design
Construction
Get your bibs out for the annual event that draws top Bay Area blues artists and fingerlicking-good ribs. This year’s headliner will be Austin de Lone. Fourth St between Cijos St and A St (San Rafael). 415.383.3740, teamproevent.com
15 State of the Town and Business of the Year Dinner The San Anselmo historical committee and Tom Boss of Seawood photo will produce a historical slide show featuring the last 100 years in San Anselmo; Heidi Krahling of Insalata’s and Glen and Laura Miwa of Comforts will spearhead the 400-person sit-down dinner. San Francisco Theological Seminary (San Anselmo). 415.454.2510, sananselmochamber.org
15 & 16 Mill Valley Fall Arts Festival At the foot of Mount Tam, experience a weekend of food, live musical entertainment and art to raise funds for Old Mill Park. Over 130 artists will be featured at this 51st annual event set in the park’s beautiful redwoods. Old Mill Park (Mill Valley). 415.381.8090, mvfaf.org MARINMAGAZINE.COM
2006 “Living Room” Marin Designers Showcase
Park Hill Interiors Michael Souza 415.255.9556 parkhillinteriors@sbcglobal.net www. parkhillinteriors.com
Marin County
•
San Francisco
Michael Souza CID, ASID
•
Sonoma
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2007 Marin Designers Showcase September 18 – October 7
presented by The Auxiliary of the Center for Volunteer and Nonprofit Leadership of Marin
Country Elegance
15 & 16 Open Hearts Open Homes Fundraiser Building on last year’s success, the Hospice by the Bay Foundation is showcasing a new selection of Eichler homes and an exciting collection of rare and exotic cars. Lucas Valley and Terra Linda neighborhoods (San Rafael). 415.526.5500 17 Rally to Celebrate Life The 16th annual tennis tournament begins with women’s doubles and round robin play and finishes with a silent auction and continental breakfast. At the exciting professional and amateur exhibition match, sip champagne, enjoy an alfresco lunch and preview the latest fashions in tennis and golf wear. Marin Tennis Club (San Rafael). 415.455.5882, tocelebratelife.org 18—22 Macy’s Passport It’s the 25th year
Historical 1906 San Rafael Dominican Home Gift Shop ~ Petite Lunch ~ Lecture Series Meet the Designers: Thursday Evenings, Wine & Hors-d’œuvres 38th Annual Fundraiser Benefiting: The Center for Volunteer and Nonprofit Leadership of Marin & The 2007 Heart Tug Recipients: Helen Vine Detox Center, Marin Services for Women, Ritter Center
Tickets & Info: General: $28 • Senior & Group (10+): $25 (415) 479-5691 • www.marindesignersshowcase.com
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for this annual event, which brings together top designers, celebrities and entertainers for a fashion fete benefiting charities. This year’s event includes a teen night, American Express Opening Night, Gala Night and Passport in-store events. Various locations (SF). macys.com
18—October 7 Marin Designers Showcase Marin home designers show off their talents in a recently completed home. Proceeds benefit the Center for Volunteer and Nonprofit Leadership. 415.479.5691, marindesignersshowcase.com 19 Scuba Club Join other divers for exciting club meetings. Tonight features a presentation by Gordon Robinson from Diving Alaska. Seafood Peddler (San Rafael). 415.453.9556.
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med spa
SKINCARE LASER CENTER
26 Garden Feast This annual garden party and benefit luncheon includes a tasting reception with epicurean treats by local purveyors of organic products. The day also includes live music, a silent auction and an opportunity for guests to calculate their own carbon emissions and learn to offset their carbon footprint. Great Meadow (Golden Gate Park). 415.564.3239 ext. 304
26 Marin Charitable Wine Dinner Enjoy cocktails, a silent auction and a gourmet meal at this charity event. Giorgio’s Restaurant (Greenbrae). 415.297.6540, marincharitable.org MARINMAGAZINE.COM
28 Oktoberfest Enjoy beer, bratwurst, entertainment from the Edelweiss German Band and delicious apple strudel from Sweden House. Main St (Tiburon). 415.435.5633, tiburonchamber.org 29 An Evening Under the Harvest Moon Head to Corte Madera for the annual Search for the Cause fundraiser. Sarah Clark of Alice Radio will be hosting the evening, which features locally grown organic cuisine and wine along with a green auction and dancing to the Phat Barbies. The Village at Corte Madera (Corte Madera). 415.289.1001, searchforthecause.org
29 Sausalito Floating Homes Tour Take a self-guided tour inside 15 unique waterfront homes at this annual event. This year’s featured homes include the Green Heron, a colorful Victorian cottage with stained glass windows and a garden filled with 16 climbing roses, and the Hippo home, which doubles as an art studio for a renowned African animal artist. Kappas Marina (Sausalito). 415.332.1916, floatinghomes.org
women’s clothing & accessories
Sanctuary Nanette Lepore Twelth Street Michael Stars Twill 22 Rachel Pally Diane von Furstenberg Theory True Religion Ella Moss Velvet Hudson Splendid Rock and Republic Tibi and more... 601 San Anselmo Avenue San Anselmo . 415.454.2629 www.shopkismet.net
29 Stepping Out to Celebrate Life This black-tie event draws over 700 guests and features a fashion show with breast cancer survivors as models. The evening raises funds for local breast-cancer-related organizations. Marin Center Exhibit Hall (San Rafael). 415.455.5882, tocelebratelife.org 30 Blackie’s Hay Day Volunteer organization Bookmarks is hosting a shindig reminiscent of an old-fashioned country fair with pony rides, a petting zoo, relay races and more. The organization funds the programs and development of the children’s room at the Belvedere-Tiburon library. Blackie’s Pasture (Tiburon). 415.435.3909
30 Sleepy Hollow Kitchen and Garden Tour What started as a way to raise funds for the neighborhood’s pool renovations has now turned to an anticipated and successful annual event. This year, take a peek inside five distinct homes and gardens to support the Sleepy Hollow community. Don’t miss the celebrity chef presentation and the festive fall market with pumpkins, scarecrows and hay bales. Sleepy Hollow Clubhouse (San Anselmo). 415.460.1419, sleepyhollowtours.org MARINMAGAZINE.COM
Hearth & Home of Marin Marin County’s premier fireplace showroom offers a wide array of beautiful, energy efficient, environmentally-friendly fireplaces, inserts and free-standing stoves. We offer full installation, including gas lines, by our licensed company owner. 902 Lincoln Ave., San Rafael • (415) 479-2876 • www.hearthandhomeofmarin.com Lic #847647
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ORTHOPEDIC SURGERY I SPORTS MEDICINE I SPINE CARE Sports medicine is a medical specialty dedicated to the diagnosis, treatment and prevention of musculoskeletal injuries and diseases. At Marin Orthopedics and Sports Medicine our doctors are knowledgeable in all areas of general orthopedics, spine care, sports and upper extremity surgeries. We work together to ensure you quality and efficient care.
WWW.MARINORTHOPEDICS.COM . 415.492.1600 4000 CIVIC CENTER DRIVE, SUITE 205, SAN RAFAEL, CA 94903
DISAPPEARING SCREENS FOR DOORS & WINDOWS
LECTURES/WORKSHOPS 9 Book Passage Author Event Steve Yarbrough talks about his new book The End of California, which chronicles the life of a doctor who comes back home to Mississippi after 25 years away and a scandal in California. Book Passage (Corte Madera). 415.927.0960 bookpassage.com
12 Spiritual Tools: Alyne Jacobs demonstrates how to use a pendulum and do muscle testing. She will explain how utilizing these tools can help you make informed choices to better heal the body. Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy (Novato). 415.892.3700, pharmaca.com 13 Natural Approaches to Lowering Cholesterol In observance of National Cholesterol Education Month, join Nathan Pope, Pharm.D., and Geoff Levins, L.Ac., for a discussion on traditional prescriptions, complementary and natural remedies, or a personalized blend of both used for lowering cholesterol. Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy (Novato). 415.892.3700, pharmaca.com 18 Food for Thought Each month chef Rachelle Boucher hosts a fun, interactive and educational cooking demonstration in Marin. After, learn more about kitchen appliances you already own or are considering purchasing. Standards of Excellence Showroom (San Rafael). 415.453.6070, standardsofexcellence.com 19 The Path to Mastering Chronic Pain Learn how to master chronic pain with professional life coach Betty Louise. Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy (Novato). 415.892.3700, pharmaca.com 26 Marin Moonshiner’s Hike Eat and toast the sunset and full moon rise during this monthly three-mile hike from Four Corners to the Pelican Inn. Pelican Inn (Muir Beach). 415.331.0100
October 15 Save the Date The Big Free Onsite Estimates • Samples & Demonstrations • CA Licensed, Bonded & Insured
Retractable Screens for: Front Doors, French Doors, Sliding Doors, Garage Doors, Windows & Shades (415) 706-7510 l www.reelscreens.com l San Rafael, CA
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Brother Big Sisters of the North Bay’s annual gof tournament is around the corner. The event includes a BBQ lunch and gourmet dinner. Stone Tree Golf Club (Novato). 415.453.3800, bbbsnorthbay.org MARINMAGAZINE.COM
NATURE WALKS/TALKS Ongoing Sonoma History Local actor George Webber morphs into Samuel Clemens, aka Mark Twain, as he retells the history of Sonoma through Twain’s eyes; specific dates on website (Sonoma). 707.694.5097, georgewebber.com
CALL THE SHOT!
8 Cordell Bank National Marine Sanctuary Join sanctuary education coordinator Jennifer Stock as she gives an introduction to the sanctuary and its diverse habitats (Point Reyes). 415.663.1200, ptreyes.org
RETAIL THERAPY September Grand Opening Lawrie Webb, Elements of Style will open its first retail store catering to sophisticated shoppers who are looking for American and European designers and the latest in organic denim and tops. Town Center (Corte Madera). 415.924.2961, shoptowncenter.com
Welcome to Marin Magazine’s first Call the Shot!, our new photo contest that tests how much you know about where you live. Call the Shot has
September Grand Opening Cartier has
a simple premise — tell us where this picture is and win something nice,
relocated to a significantly larger space on Post Street closer to Union Square. The boutique will become the third Cartier flagship in the United States. Cartier (SF). 415.397.3180, cartier.com
something very nice. This month the prize is a $100 gift certificate to dine
Thru September Neiman Marcus Anniversary Celebrate the retailer’s 100th year in business with events like the National Chocolate Chip Cookie Day, when the store’s signature cookie and recipe will be given out for free on September 10.Neiman Marcus (SF). 415.362.3900, neimanmarcus.com
at the E&O Trading Co. restaurant in Larkspur Landing. To win, your answer must be specific. Not just the town or the street, but the exact building. Here’s a clue: even though there is a locomotive in the photo, no train has passed through this town since 1930 (although royalty has). Here’s how to play: Go to marinmagazine.com, agree to the rules and submit your answer. Simple. The winner will be chosen randomly from all correct answers. Good luck!
7—29 Amber: Fossilized Sun Rays See a variety of amber, from raw to polished, and learn about its mysteries and charm. Poland designer Alexandra presents gorgeous contemporary designs in silver and leather. Spirits in Stone (Sausalito). 415.332.2388, spiritsinstone.comz
21 & 22 Fritz and Mischell Jewelers Fritz Pearce and Bay Area local Mischell Maldonado return to present their newest designs from the collections Organically Grown and Reflections on Color. Spirits in Stone (Sausalito). 415.332.2388, spiritsinstone.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM
27 Appel and Frank The shopping mavens are featuring their first-ever green event, complimentary spa treatments by Kamalaspa, eco-friendly local designers, allnatural sake cocktails by sake2me. Benefits Friends of the Urban Forest. Regency Center (SF). appelandfrank.com
brating fine wine and fabulous food. Various locations (Sonoma). 707.935.0803, sonomavalleywine.com
8 & 9 Katmandu Fall Festival Celebrate Nepal to benefit the Children’s Medical Aid Foundation (Sonoma). 707.938.1807, katmandufallfestival.org
WINE COUNTRY 11 Sea Ranch Lodge Winemaker Dinner Thru September 2 Sonoma Valley Harvest Wine Auction Saddle up and shine your boots at the 15th annual cowboythemed event, a star-studded weekend cele-
Gourmet meal prepared by executive chef James Romeo, with wines handpicked by Michael Keenan. Sea Ranch Lodge (Sea Ranch). 707.785.2371, searanchlodge.com MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
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F LAVO R
SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE Tiburon’s landmark restaurant serves classic American cuisine BY ERIKA LENKERT
Golden-crusted Icelandic cod
PHOTO TIM PORTER
have a confession to make. I’d been go-
I
latest food trends, it presents a solid selection
cod doused with malt vinegar and flanked
ing to Sam’s Anchor Cafe in Tiburon for
of familiar seafood standards sprinkled with
by a mound of slaw and tangle of fries. But
at least 20 years before stepping inside
options for the less aquatically inclined and ac-
we also charted new territory with a decent
the dining room. I suspect I am not alone. For
companied by a wine list of blue-chip Northern
rendition of braised short ribs smothered in
Bay Area residents, a trip to the scenic water-
California bottlings. You won’t be disappointed
honey-chipotle barbecue sauce, as well as a
front-dining dock has been a summertime rite
if you start with crab cakes and chipotle tar-
flavorful erupting chocolate cake, which sadly
of passage for as long as I can remember. But
tar sauce or ahi tartare with avocado and won-
had a center that didn’t even trickle. Still, the
a recent diversion from the plastic-blue-ging-
ton chips. The crab Louie is tasty, too, arriving
only real semi-disappointment was a halibut
ham-draped tables, looming seagulls and hop-
as a heap of Dungeness, carrots, eggs, onions
special. A mismatched mélange of fish, over-
ping bar into the dining room proved there’s
and organic greens tossed in a slightly overly
whelming barbecue sauce, mango salsa and
more to this 87-year-old gem than a festive
sweet Thousand Island dressing. For a lighter
corn cakes, it only reiterated what I already
alfresco pub scene. Within the nautically in-
start, Greek salad with oregano vinaigrette is
know about Sam’s: there’s no need to mess
spired interior, a satisfying, classic American
the way to go.
with a winning formula.
dining experience awaits.
For creatures of habit, it may be hard to
If you live for the bustling daytime dock
The sea-foam green dining room is decided-
stray from sunny-day lunch entrées of fish and
scene, the subdued dining room may not suf-
ly less casual than the patio, but it’s still pretty
chips and Niman Ranch burgers. Fortunately,
fice, but it will come as a pleasant surprise to
simple and laid-back. A large, boxy space with
no one has to. These staples are on the dinner
anyone looking for quality, unfussy, reliable
generous views of the patio, bobbing masts
menu, along with six go-to seafood favorites
dining. In either venue, stick with the stan-
and the city beyond, it is sparsely dressed with
such as cioppino; linguini with Manila clams,
dards, and drop by the historic front-room bar;
dark wainscoting, wall-to-wall carpeting, local
white wine and garlic; and pan-fried petrale
you’ll be reminded why Sam’s continues to be
artwork and linen-draped tables. Surprisingly
sole with capers, garlic and lemon. Rounding
a popular and honorable haunt.
quiet yet relaxed, it’s an optimal spot for fam-
out the menu are a few meats, a roast free-
ily dinners, intimate dates and locals looking
range chicken and tofu-vegetable brochettes.
for memorable yet approachable food.
Sam’s Anchor Cafe; 27 Main St., Tiburon,
Seated at one of the expansive windows at
415.435.4527; samscafe.com. Entrées $12–$18
The genius of Sam’s menu is that it sticks
twilight, my party couldn t resist revisiting the
brunch, $15–$20 lunch, $18–$22 dinner; lunch
with what works. Rather than chasing the
crispy goodness of golden-crusted Icelandic
and dinner daily, brunch Sat and Sun.
164
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SEPTEMBER 2007
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
À LA CARTE Libation Nation
cient. No long waits or yucky used tea bags
offering a new Rack & Roll Wine Club. For
to deal with. They’ll also be serving up
about $100 per shipment, members will
BELLY UP TO MARIN’S LATEST TEA BAR,
tea lattes, ice-blended tea shakes and
receive four different bottles of its limited-
Teapod. Not to be mistaken for a tradition-
Boba pearl teas. 701 San Anselmo Ave,
production wines in April and then again
al teahouse, this ultramodern, teafe (a café
teapod.biz.
in November. No obligation or sign up fee;
without the coffee) is opening this fall. The
check out marinwines.com.
organic tea drinks are made using purified
Sausalito entrepreneur Jeffrey Smith
water, organic ingredients and a specially
has been testing the waters with his new
Need a pick me up? Jeff Silver—the
designed tea infuser that’s quick and effi-
drink saké2me. So far, so good: the drink-
former vice president of Rockstar en-
ing community of Marin has embraced
ergy drink and a Redwood High School
this clean, light and crisp cocktail made
graduate—has recently unleashed Jetset
from imported Junmai sake. Flavors in-
energy drink. With the help of his family,
clude; Ginger Mango, Yuzu Citrus, Asian
who work on the sales and finance side
Pear and Green Tea. The sleek, modern
of the company, the product is already
bottles can be found at sake2me.com and
available at national chains like Vons and
Bevmo, kampai!
Safeway. The line of caffeinated drinks includes mixers like tonic, soda water and
For those who prefer their ferment-
ginger ale that are designed to pair with
ed fruit to be grapes and aim for ‘locally
a favorite spirit or enjoy on their own,
grown’ whenever possible, Marin Wines is
drinkjetset.com.
click and be served.
www.jessieetlaurent.com
We deliver fresh, savory entrées from our kitchen to your door. Visit our web site or call Jessie et Laurent for all of the details.
800-632-5869 San Francisco Peninsula Marin East Bay San Jose Sonoma
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
M A R I N M AY 2 0 07
165
DINE OUT CORTE MADERA CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN Cal/Eclectic Be prepared for chaos. Easy place to meet with kids; Mom/Dad can enjoy a tasty Thai crunch salad and decent glass of wine while the little ones feast on basic kid-size portions of pasta and pizza. 347 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.945.0401 IL FORNAIO Italian Sausalito’s Larry Mindel hit a home run with this upscale Italian 23-restaurant franchise. Besides the award-winning breads, pizzas and pastas, the menu boasts a variety of salads and noncarb entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com IZZY’S STEAKS & CHOP HOUSE American The legendary San Francisco steak house has moved north. Known for great steaks and seafood as well as its fine wine selection, this is a great spot for a group or intimate dinner for two. 55 Tamal Vista, 415.924.3366, izzyssteaksandchops.com LA MAISON DE LA REINE Vietnamese A refreshing change amid the plethora of Italian, Mexican and Chinese options in town. The crunchy cabbage chicken salad with peanuts, fresh spring rolls, and combinations of pho are delicious and healthy. 346 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.0288 PACIFIC CATCH Pan-Asian This well-priced fresh grill eatery offers a bounty of Pacific Rim —inspired small or main plates, like the generously portioned wasabi bowls filled with rice (white or brown), veggies and your choice of fresh or raw fish, chicken or beef. 223 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.3474, pacificcatch.com
FAIRFAX CAFE AMSTERDAM American-European The former Broadway Video store is now a cozy spot to enjoy live music, a weekend brunch, dining on the heated patio and a large selection of local beers on tap. 23 Broadway, 415.256.8020, cafeamsterdamlive.com
SORELLA CAFÉ Italian Not only is the food satisfying and tasty; the service is friendly and the ambience is warm and inviting. A plate of olives is presented before the meal and a colorful bowl of Gummi Bears is brought out once your dinner plates are cleared—nice touch. 107 Bolinas Rd, 415.258.4520
LARKSPUR E & 0 TRADING COMPANY Southeast Asian Chef Edwin Cabriloa-Torres is keeping the the restaurant’s innovative plates like the Indonesian corn fritters and Thai seafood clay pot as tasty as ever. Without reservations, try a spot at the large communal table. 2231 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.925.0303, eotrading.com LARK CREEK INN American This flagship eatery for the Lark Creek Restaurant Group opened back in 1989 and was hailed by the New York Times as having “the best home cooking you can imagine.” It remains a perennial special occasion spot and is still known for inventive country cooking—as well as a cozy bar scene. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7766, larkcreek.com LEFT BANK RESTAURANT French Known for award-winning French cuisine and its lively brasserie ambience, this corner spot has held court with the locals for well over a decade. Those with a petite appetite/budget can opt for happy hour (4-6 M-F) and enjoy appetizers, all priced under three dollars. 507 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.3331, leftbank.com P I CCO California Chef and celebrated restaurateur Bruce Hill deserves the accolades he has received for this eclectic shared-plate heaven. Dishes like mini-burgers and seasonally driven menu items, along with risotto made every half hour, keep people coming back. The Picco Pizzeria and Wine Bar next door is cozy (not many seats) but already famous for its wood-fired pizzas, great wine selection and soft-serve Straus Family Creamery ice cream. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com YANKEE PIER American This family-friendly casual clam shack is harbored in a quaint house built in 1924 as a private residence. Yankee Pier serves fresh seafood delivered daily from both coasts for dishes by renowned chef Anthony Bowman. 286 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7676, yankeepier.com
MILL VALLEY
Mediterranean salad from Sam’s
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MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and chili-lime “brick” chicken are a few of the satisfying, comfort-food-type menu items that have made this classic road-house a favorite since the ‘30s. Dine in the restaurant or at the bar. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com
BUNGALOW 44 American Much like sister restaurant Buckeye Roadhouse, Bungalow 44 offers a mean dose of homey carbo- and lipidladen dishes, such as the burger, fried chicken and truffle fries, as well as a few lighter items. The bar is a neighborhood favorite, serving up tasty spirits and eye candy. 44 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com CACTU S CAFE AN D TAQU E R IA Mexican Recently under new management; the food is better than ever. The burritos and enchiladas with diablo sauce are especially tasty. 393 Miller Ave, 415.388-8226 CAFE DEL SOL California Beware of addiction. Once you stop in for the deliciously fresh Hummus Yummus wrap, you’ll have to come back to sample the chipotle Sunrise Rice Bowl; then it will be the Thai It Up wrap with peanut sauce washed down with ginger limeade that brings you back, and so on. Casual lunch spot, great for takeout. 247 Shoreline Highway, 415.388.1852, cafedelsoul.net FRANTOIO RISTORANTE ITALIANO Italian Known for its in-house olive press, superior olive oil and excellent Italian cuisine, this is a great location for large groups. Ask to sit in the press room for private parties. 152 Shoreline Hwy, 415.289.5777, frantoio.com INDIA PALACE Indian Known as “that great restaurant in the Travelodge,” India Palace is a favorite among the takeout crowd; however, eating veggie samosas, shahi khorma, or bhindi special (okra) on site is a treat too. 707 Redwood Hwy, 415.388.3350 LA GINESTRA Italian A favorite family spot for over 30 years; getting a table or comfortable booth can take a while. While this old-school Italian eatery is known for traditional pastas, veal dishes, pizzas and dry martinis, the familiar wait staff is also part of the attraction. 127 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0224 ORA Pan-Asian An inventive small and large plate menu mixed with an impressive wine list and original bar menu, including sake flights. Some favorites include Belgian endive cups, green papaya salad, and anything on the sushi list. It’s an easy place to pop in for a drink and bite to eat, but call ahead for large groups. 24 Sunnyside Ave, 415.381.7500. oramv.com PIAZZA D’ANGELO Italian It’s always a party at this long-standing hot spot. A great place to meet up with friends for a fresh plate of pasta, zuppa di pesce or pollo novello, or make some new friends at the bar. 22 Miller Ave, 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com PIZZA ANTICA Cal/Italian Light and delicious thincrust pizza with toppings like fennel, spicy sausage, bacon, pesto and goat cheese, as well as a variety of fresh green salads and entrées. Acoustics are an issue; otherwise, a great meeting spot. Strawberry Village, 415.383.0600 SMALL SHED FLATBREADS California As a slow food chef, Ged Robertson uses only local, mostly organic ingredients. Crowd favorites include the MARINMAGAZINE.COM
PH OTO: TI M P ORTER
INSIDER’S GUIDE
IRON SPRINGS PUB & BREWERY American Grab a beer and a grilled portobello mushroom sandwich—which one Chronicle reviewer calls “the best mushroom dish I have ever tasted”—at the former Ross Valley Brewing Company. 765-A Center Blvd, 415.485.1005, ironspringspub.com
Mt. Tamal-Pie, a delicious fresh salad atop a flatbread. 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, smallshed.com THEP LELA Thai This jewel is tucked away in the back of the new Strawberry Village. Diners come for the tasty kee mao noodles, pad thai, fresh rolls and extensive bar menu. It’s also a great place for lunch. 615 Strawberry Village, 415.383.3444
introduces the
VASCO Italian Whether you’re at a table, the bar or the back counter, you can expect an intimate and tasty dining experience at this one-room trattoria. 106 Throckmorton Ave, 415.381.3343
NOVATO BOCA STEAK & SEAFOOD South American George Morrone, of Aqua and Fifth Floor fame, has been serving up an Argentinean-inspired menu in Novato with much ado. House specialties include provolenta, gambas al ajillo, and empanadas, as well as hand-cut (grass- and grain-fed) steaks. 340 Ignacio Blvd, 415.883.0901, bocasteak.com CACTI GRILL Southwestern A former bell tower church, the family-friendly restaurant now boasts a covered patio and serves a 21-day dry aged steak and filet mignon enchiladas. 1200 Grant Ave, 415.898.2234, cactigrill.com KITCHEN American Restaurateur Henry Hautau has succeeded in creating an intimate 45-seat restaurant in downtown Novato. Executive chef Jason S. Hoffman, who has worked at Insalatas, Azie and Waterfront, offers items like orange-and-spicescented house-brined pork chop and star-anisebraised short ribs. 868 Grant Ave, 415.892.6100, kitchen868.com WILDFOX American Perched on the hillside off Highway 101, this rustic mesquite grill offers a menu full of comfort food and drinks, like the smooth cosmos, and seafood risotto, with bits of butternut squash. 225 Alameda del Prado, 415.883.9125, wildfoxrestaurant.com
ROSS MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS French This gem of a restaurant serves up locally farmed produce, wild and fresh seafood and free-range meats prepared with an artisan’s touch. 23 Ross Common, 415.925.9200, marcheauxfleursrestaurant.com TRATTORIA FRESCO Italian Every neighborhood deserves a one-room trattoria like this one. The service is friendly and the farmers’-market-fresh food is fabulous—especially the gnocchi. 13 Ross Common, 415.464.0915
SAN ANSELMO AVA California Chef Dan Baker, of Marché aux Fleurs in Ross, has another winner with AVA, which features a California-only wine list and a menu where nearly all the ingredients come from within 100 miles—if not the Marin County Farmers’ Market. The small menu includes seasonal flatbreads, pasta MARINMAGAZINE.COM
$MBTTFT GPS UIF .#" JO 4VTUBJOBCMF &OUFSQSJTF TUBSU 'BMM $BMM UPEBZ Phoebe R. Higgins Green MBA graduate Sustainable Programs Director, Community Bank of the Bay
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Look Better Feel Your Best Dr. Winfield treats the full range of skin problems, from acne to skin cancer to rare dermatological conditions. Dr. Winfield, a Tiburon resident, is a family dermatologist specializing in adolescent acne and cosmetic dermatology.
We are pleased to annouce that we offer: Medical Grade Microdermabrasion, Chemical Peels, Botox®, Collagen, Restylane®, Juvéderm™, Photorejuvenation with IPL, Personalized skincare and more. “All procedures performed by M.D. or Esthetic RN.”
Julie Anne Winfield, M D (415) 388-0660 • 239 Miller Avenue, Suite 8, Mill Valley MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
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and six seasonal main dishes. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.453.3407 CUCINA RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR Italian Proprietor Jack Krietzman (also of Pacific Heights’ Jackson Fillmore) has successfully brought Milan to Marin with his 42-seat family restaurant. Relax with a glass of wine and have a slice from the todie-for thin pizzas, which are topped with items like truffle oil and fontina cheese. 510 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.2942 FORK California This intimate spot was awarded a “Top Food in the Bay Area” designation by Zagat for 2007. Opt for the five-course tasting menu or seasonal à la carte options. Dining early? The three course special for $20 is available during the first seating. 198 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.453.9898, marinfork.com INSALATA’S Mediterranean Award-winning chef Heidi Insalata Krahling offers Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes prepared with local organic produce and artisan meats. 120 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.457.7700, insalatas.com LOCOCO’S PIZZERIA Italian Worth driving to from all over Marin, and it’s an easy place to meet with friends and family. The pizza crust is divine as is the house salad. Closed Mondays. 638 San Anselmo Ave, 415.453.1238
SAUSALITO AN GE LI N O R E STAU R ANT Italian Fatherand-son chefs Pasquale and Alfredo Ancona offer handmade pastas and seasonal antipasti at this authentic Italian restaurant, which has been serving food from the Campania region for the past 24 years. 621 Bridgeway, 415.331.5225, angelinorestaurant.com CAFFÉ DIVINO Tuscan Sure, you’ll find great coffee drinks in a funky one-room setting, but locals also come for the tasty pastas and salads cooked by Tuscan-born chef Elana Fabbri. Free delivery in Sausalito. 37 Caledonia St, 415.331.9355, caffedivinosausalito.com
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GAYLORD INDIA Indian Rated as a “Restaurant of Excellence” by Zagat, Gaylord’s new location in Sausalito also features million-dollar views of San Francisco and the bay. All of the dishes including samosas, curries and tandoori are made with fresh local produce, seafood and artisan meats. 201 Bridgeway, 415.339.0172, gaylord.com
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MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
KITTI’S PLACE Pan-Asian Watch out Comforts (aka the best chicken salad in town), Kitty’s serves up a delicious crunchy fresh chicken salad, as well as light tasty spring rolls too. Everything on the menu, from the pad thai to the BLAT made with thick bacon, lettuce, tomato and avocado, is excellent, which is why this little oneroom spot is always bustling. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.331.0390 POGGIO Italian A great place to celebrate a special occasion or simply enjoy a night out. Executive chef Peter McNee cooks up delicious Northern Italian cuisine using fresh and local ingredients, including MARINMAGAZINE.COM
produce from the nearby Poggio chef garden. 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com SUSHI RAN Japanese Fresh, innovative small plates are just big enough to share, the traditional sushi is melt-in-your-mouth good and the wine, cocktail and sake lists keep the pickiest barfly well satisfied. Even the prices don’t deter the herd of sushi enthusiasts, who line up nightly to partake; reservations required in main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com
SAN RAFAEL CAFE GRATITUDE Raw The waiters might push the affirmations theme a bit too much, but the tasty (and healthy) food is worth it. Besides supporting local farmers and sustainable agriculture, the raw food and vegan samosas are hard to resist. Best to bring a group and sample lots of items on the menu. 2200 Fourth St, 415.824.4652, withthecurrent.com SABOR OF SPAIN Spanish Named as Best Tapas/ Small Dishes restaurant in Marin by the Pacific Sun in 2006, this bustling corner hot spot with a Spanish-only wine bar is a great place for a date or a big party. 1301 Fourth St, 415.457.8466, saborofspain.com SAN RAFAEL JOE’S Italian Guido and Theresa Farina are now running this Marin institution, which has been famous for serving up sophisticated yet casual Italian fare since 1947. 931 Fourth St, 415.456.2425, srjoes.com
SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE American Everyone knows Sam’s deck is the prime spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole, but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. Enjoy trans-fat-free calamari, fresh fish, seasonal salads and pastas. Check out comedy night every Thursday. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com SERVINO RISTORANTE Italian With people like Warren Buffett and Bill Gates raving about his pizza, Angelina Servino is doing something right. Some people come for the spacious and popular bar; some people come for the great food and friendly service; the titans of industry, it seems, opt for the pepperoni. 9 Main St, 415.435.2676, servino. com THREE DEGREES California Opt for the outside patio, white tablecloths in the dining room, or the swank modern setting of the bar, and enjoy the local, seasonal menu options like grilled Niman Ranch New York “cowboy” strip steak or Dungeness crab risotto. 1651 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.5996, threedegreesrestaurant.com
WEST MARIN DRAKES BEACH CAFE Local If you’re OK with the long drive, you can’t beat the view and the fresh local ingredients used to make the burgers, salads and soups at this casual spot (Inverness). 1 Drakes Beach Rd, 415.669.1297, drakesbeachcafe.com
SEAFOOD PEDDLER Seafood A great place to seek out fresh seafood in a warm and inviting environment. Varieties of East and West Coast fish flown in daily. Dine indoors or out, or better yet, rent out the banquet room for a party. 100 Yacht Club Dr, 415.460.6669, seafoodpeddler.com
OLEMA INN California One of the most charming settings around, this inn and restaurant is a great destination lunch spot for a Sunday drive, or dinner Wednesday through Sunday. The menu includes tasty and imaginative combinations using regional and organic greens and artisan meats (Olema). 10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.663.9559, theolemainn.com
SOL FOOD Puerto Rican With south-of-theborder treats like yellow rice, beans, plantains and authentic Puerto Rican dishes, this tiny one-room eatery on Fourth Street just off Highway 101 can be hard to get into, but worth the wait. 732 Fourth St, and 901 Lincoln Ave, 415.451.4765
PINE CONE DINER American Just off the main road, Joannie Kwit has re-created the ultimate neighborhood diner. Vintage china and homemade curtains complement the eclectic but homey menu featuring local fare (Point Reyes Station). 60 Fourth St, 415.663.1536, pineconediner.com
SUSHI TO DAI FOR Japanese Snagging a seat in this popular sushi spot can be a challenge, but patience will be rewarded with tasty and fresh sashimi, unique sushi rolls and great prices. 869 Fourth St, 415.721.0392
TIBURON GINZA Japanese The old Tiburon Tommie’s space is now the spot to find great sushi in downtown Tiburon. The double hamachi roll is not to be missed. 41 Main St, 415.789.5123 ROONEY’S CAFÉ & GRILL American If you’re old enough to remember Cheers on prime time, this is your dinner spot. There’s not a long bar, nor a bartender named Sam (he’s across the street); however, there is an undeniable neighborhood feeling in this one-room cottage dining room. 38 Main St, 415.435.1911 MARINMAGAZINE.COM
Shoot your own steak.
SAN FRANCISCO AME Pan-Asian On the ground floor of the St. Regis Hotel, Ame Restaurant was designated “Best New Restaurant in 2007” by the Zagat guide. Known for raw treatments such as sashimi, crudo, tartare and carpaccio. Dinner only, reservations recommended. 689 Mission St, 415.284.4040, amerestaurant.com BONG SU Vietnamese Brainchild of Tammy Huynh, executive chef and co-owner of the popular Tamarine in Palo Alto. The interior is a mix of the modern and traditional silk, wood and steel elements such as a giant bong su (plumeria), floating orchids in towering glass vases…and possibly the most talked-about design feature, the barely there hostess uniforms. The restaurant was voted one of Esquire magazine’s top 20 in 2006. 311 Third St, 415.536.5800, bongsu.com
You know, I get all misty just thinking of grown men circled around a hot grill sharing wallet photos of beef. This vision led me to “Bryan’s Steak Photo Contest” and it works like
this: buy at least one (but probably more) of my perfectly aged, prime cuts of rib-eye, filet, Porterhouse or Chateaubriand, take a picture in all its flame-licked, sizzling glory, and send it to me (the picture). Every winner will win something. Exactly what, I’m not sure. But don’t let this stop you. Enter today by buying as many steaks as you can possibly haul away in a pickup, take a picture, and send to: bryan@bryansfinefoods.com. Winners will be announced sometime. Come buy everything.
Bryan’s Fine Foods Corte Madera Town Center
927.4488 www.bryansfinefoods.com MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
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HAR R I S’ R E STAU R ANT Steak house This San Francisco institution has hosted local and international luminaries for nearly a century. Wine Spectator ranked Harris’ as one of the nation’s top ten steak houses. 2100 Van Ness Ave, 415.673.1888
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MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
JONES RESTAURANT Comfort If you’re thinking to cross the bridge, to satisfy your thirst check out the brand new Jones Restaurant in the spot formerly occupied by the Marina Sports Bar. The bar manager, Tony Devencenzi has created a menu featuring fresh ingredients and inventive takes on the classics. Don’t miss the muddled Cucumber-Basil Gimlet or the freshly squeezed 2400 Greyhound. 2400 Lombard, 415.440.2000, jones-sf.com MAMACITA Mexican Known for its authentic Mexican cuisine and 100 percent pure agave tequila margaritas, this Marina restaurant has quickly become a local favorite. 2317 Chestnut St, 415.376.1629, mamacitasf.com MYTH Cali/French Innovative cuisine by chef Sean O’Brian, formerly of Gary Danko, has made this one of the most popular spots in town. 470 Pacific Ave, 415.677.8986, mythsf.com PERBACCO Italian The seasonal Italian menu focuses on the northern Piemontese region, featuring handcrafted charcuterie, homemade pastas and regional dishes such as quail with persimmon and apple salad. 230 California St, 415.955.0663, perbaccosf.com P R E S A V I I n t e r n a t i o n a l /S m a l l p l a t e s Known for a wine list that’s sure to please any oenophile, including a large selection of flights and by-the-glass choices to pair with chef Kelly Degala’s shared small plates menu. One Letterman Dr, Building D, Ste 150, 415.409.3000, presavi.com PRESIDIO SOCIAL CLUB California Originally the barracks for enlisted men; menu features steaks, pork chops and fresh oysters. Throwing a party? Try the private room, which can accommodate 30 people. 563 Ruger St, 415.885.1888, presidosocialclub.com QUINCE California Book a reservation at least a month in advance to get a seat at one of the 15 tables in this tiny restaurant. The farmers’ market creations by chef Michael Tusk, formerly of Chez Panisse and Oliveto, are sure to please. 1701 Octavia St, 415.775.8500, quincerestaurant.com SCOTT HOWARD American The former chef/ owner of Fork in San Anselmo, Scott Howard packed up his talent and moved it to the big city, in the former location of the Cypress Club on Jackson Street. 500 Jackson St, 415.956.7040, scotthowardsf.com T H E H E LM A N D Afghan Partially famous for having the best Afghani food in town (not many choices) and for owner Mahmoud Karzai, whose brother is Hamid (as in the president of Afghanistan), the Helmand is a culinary adventure not to be missed. Meals start off with customary flatbread with dipping sauces and proceed to a spice-filled culinary tour of Afghanistan. 430 Broadway, 415.362.0641 MARINMAGAZINE.COM
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M ICROCL I M ATE
SLEEPY HOLLOW Residents treasure their remoteness – and community activities BY JIM WOOD PHOTOS TIM PORTER
CONNECT THESE THREE NAMES: Van Tassel, Van Ripper, Van
community center and pool. Stabling of horses is allowed and there’s
Winkle. Give up? Try these two: Ichabod and Crane. Have you got it?
a Sleepy Hollow horsemen’s group, a tennis club, an undefeated swim
They’re names from the Washington Irving classic story, “Rip Van Winkle
team, and the wonderful Sleepy Hollow Nursery School. We have
and the Legend of Sleepy Hollow.” Along with Katrina, Knickerbocker
potluck dinners, blood drives and a homespun Fourth of September
and Tarry, those are street names in the Marin County community (post
parade and barbecue.”
office: San Anselmo) of Sleepy Hollow, a place that, much like Rip Van Winkle himself, time has passed by. “What’s so good about Sleepy Hollow?” 12-year resident Karen Martin asks rhetorically. “Most important, we have an incredible sense
Note what wasn’t said. There are no shops in Sleepy Hollow, no restaurants, no bookstores and no movie theater. It’s at the end of a twomile-long, two-lane road, and there’s no other way out than the way arrived — on Butterfield Road.
of community.” Martin defines the spirit of the community at the ter-
“That’s what we love,” says Martin. “We’re all by ourselves out here.
minus of Butterfield Road, equidistant between Sir Francis Drake
There’s a lot of ‘togetherness’ among us.” As an example, Martin cites
Boulevard and Lucas Valley Road, as being “what life was like in the
September’s Sleepy Hollow Kitchen and Garden Tour (see sidebar).
1950s.” She adds: “There’s the Ladies Legend Club. We have our own
“It is strongly supported within the community,” she says, “and draws
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SEPTEMBER 2007
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PREVIOUS PAGE: Horses are a common sight in Sleepy Hollow. CLOCKWISE FROM LOWER LEFT:
Streets are named after characters such as Ichabod Crane and Rip Van Winkle; the neighborhood has a suburban feel, with well-manicured yards; a pancake breakfast for the Sleepy Hollow swim team, the Sea Lions. people from the entire Bay Area who want
three-bath property on Butterfield Road, selling for $1,895,000. “It
an authentic glimpse of what life is like in
has a pool and a guest house on four tenths of an acre,” he says.
Sleepy Hollow.” And, says Martin, during
On the higher end of the area’s real estate market, Sharon B. Luce,
the holidays the neighborhood known as
a partner with Sleepy Hollow resident Darlene Hanley in Coldwell
Greensburgh-Whiteplains decorates so lav-
Banker’s Greenbrae office, cites a nearly new six-bedroom, four-bath
ishly that almost everyone in Sleepy Hollow
listing on Tappan Road. “It’s on three acres, has a pool, has plenty
“visits those streets at least once, most like-
of room for horses and is priced at $3,250,000.” Home prices in the
ly two or three times.” In addition, Martin
neighborhood vary greatly, though. The Hanley-Luce partnership also
boasts that of the approximately 750 homes in the community more
has a three-bedroom, two-bath listing on Irving Drive for $1,299,000
than 500 belong to the Sleepy Hollow Homes Association, a volun-
that includes a “gorgeous pool” on a third of an acre.
tary organization that serves as the governmental agency in the county, organizes community events and publishes a monthly newsletter.
Sleepy Hollow presents a consistent market. “People don’t come out here to speculate,” says Narodny. “They buy here to live with their fam-
As with most Marin communities, Sleepy Hollow’s early history in-
ilies.” Hanley and Luce, have a similar observation: “Of the 750 homes
cludes Miwok Indians and Spanish land grants. In the 1850s, a grantee
in Sleepy Hollow, only a dozen are currently on the market,” says Luce.
named Pedro Sais leased much of the surrounding acreage to one Harvey
“People like living here; they’re reluctant to leave.”
Butterfield, who fenced it and began a dairy farm. Soon, locals referred to the dirt trail leading to the dairy as “the road to Butterfield’s place.” In the late 1800s, Peter Austin acquired the land and planted the eucalyptus and poplar trees lining what had become known as “Butterfield’s road.” Austin sold his land to the wealthy Hotaling family of San Francisco
Fourth Annual Sleepy Hollow
Kitchen and Garden Tour
(Washington Irving aficionados to the extreme), who built an estate at
Sunday, September 30, 11 am – 4 pm
the end of Butterfield Road and name it Sleepy Hollow.
Five homes—an Eichler pool home, a Tuscan farmhouse, a
Community historian Audre LaBelle says that during the first half of
Southwest contemporary, a California contemporary and one
the 1900s owners of Sleepy Hollow and its surrounding area included
featuring Craftsman design—will be open during the Sleepy
another dairy farmer, a Chicago stock syndicate, a golf course developer,
Hollow Kitchen and Garden Tour, September 30,
the U.S. Army, and Mr. A. G. Raisch, who created an artificial lake. The
from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Sleepy Hollow mansion was vacated in the 1950s and eventually burned
“This year we’ll have restaurant owners and chefs preparing
down (its concrete walls and foundation are still visible). Meanwhile,
their favorite dishes in most of the featured homes,” says Karen
homes were being built on nearby lots no smaller a third of an acre
Martin, founder of the tour, which is presented by the Sleepy
and a community was emerging. In 1966, the Dominican Order of the
Hollow Ladies Legend Club.
Catholic Church purchased the land and opened the San Domenico School, which remains an anchor of the Sleepy Hollow community, attracting students from all over the United States and the world. What attracts home buyers to Sleepy Hollow? “It’s our schools, larger lots, and the strong feeling of neighborliness,” says realty agent Peter Narodny, of Frank Howard Allen’s Greenbrae office.
Featured chefs include Jack Krietzman of Cucina and John Sarren of Bubba’s Diner, both in San Anselmo. In addition, free pastries, champagne, wine and cheese will be available at the Sleepy Hollow Clubhouse on Butterfield Road, where box lunches can be purchased. Tickets are $25 in advance, $30 the day of the event.
Homes priced just above $1 million are typical for Sleepy Hollow,
They are available by phone (415.456.5951) or
says Narodny, but “currently we have fi ve properties available for
online at sleepyhollowtours.org.
over $2 million. In the mid-range, Narodny points to a four-bedroom,
180
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A DREAM COME TRUE. This gorgeous Hamptons-style, four bedroom, four and one half bath, one-year new jewel with wonderful Bay views is the first resale in this sought after, exclusive community. The owner’s impeccable and innovative improvements and exquisite moldings complement the exceptional floor plan. An elegant, curved staircase leads from the foyer to the upper level. Features include: Gourmet kitchen with Viking appliances, butler’s pantry with wine cooler, and adjoining family room; enormous play room wired and sound-ready for media; stunning master suite with Bay, San Rafael Bridge, and Mt. Tamalpais views. Lush landscaping, lawns, many patios, play and entertainment areas, and three car garage. This prestigious neighborhood boasts a children’s park and is ideally situated for outdoor activities. Close to the Bay, McNear’s Beach, hiking, biking, boating, and Peacock Gap Golf Course.
Offered at $2,275,000
For more information and a slideshow with music, please visit: www.MarilynRich.com. Marilyn Rich
415.464.3741
www.MarilynRich.com
Whitney Rich
415.250.9914
wrich@pacunion.com
MARIN METROPOLITAN CRAIG SWANSON AND PACIFIC UNION PRESENT 26 Oak Mountain Court, Lucas Valley, San Rafael Gorgeous Eichler designed by Claude Oakland
•
Extensively
renovated in 2005 • Breathtaking views • One level • 4 bedrooms • 3 full bathrooms • Spacious galley-style chef’s kitchen Formal living room
•
•
Center
atrium • Flat yard • Large view deck • Offered at $1,625,000.
1122 Idylberry Road, Lucas Valley, San Rafael Exceptional
Quincy
Jones
designed Lucas Valley Eichler • Renovated and expanded • Great room with chef’s kitchen •
Formal living/dining room
•
5 bedrooms (2 master suites) •
3 spacious new bathrooms
• Mudroom with laundry • 2car garage plus carport • Dixie School District
•
Offered at
$1,525,000.
1 Eagle Rock Road, Mill Valley Extraordinary Bauhaus inspired home • City, bay and mountain views • Formal dining room • Formal living room • Expansive gourmet kitchen • 5 bedrooms • 4 new bathrooms • Family room • Laundry room • Au pair’s quarters • 2-car garage + additional parking • Large flat yard • Multiple decks • Price available upon request.
Craig Swanson (415) 717-0607 cswanson@pacunion.com www.marinmetropolitan.com
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San Rafael—$4,595,000
San Anselmo—Call for Price
San Rafael—$899,000
305 Highland
30 Prospect
100 Thorndale, #100
All New Mediterranean estate with over 6,500 square foot (per builder), situated on over an acre overlooking huge bay views. 5 all suite bedrooms, 5.5 bathrooms, cherry flooring, oversized great room, wine cellar and so much more.
New San Anselmo Barber Tract home with 4 bedrooms, 3.5 bathrooms, great room with vaulted ceilings, large master suite and hardwood floors throughout. A stone’s throw from Ross Commons and San Anselmo Village.
This property boasts the ultimate in luxury retirement living. Utilize the many amenities provided by Villa Marin Retirement Community, while enjoying the ultimate privacy of a 3,000+ square foot personal villa.
Mill Valley—SOLD!
Corte Madera—SOLD!
Mill Valley—SOLD!
40 King
106 Crescent
971 W. California
Beautifully remodeled 4 bedroom, 3 bathroom home in the heart of sunny Blithedale Canyon. A private deck, flat lawn area, views and the finest finishes throughout make this property a true Mill Valley gem.
Wonderful 4 bedroom, 2 bathroom, 2 level home nestled on Christmas Tree Hill. Remodeled chef’s kitchen, spa-inspired master bath, multiple decks, large lawn, private office / guest bedroom and views galore.
Contemporary Tam Valley home with stunning architecture, views and tasteful remodeling throughout. 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, multiple decks, private garden, artist’s studio, solarium and open floor plan.
San Anselmo, $2,895,000
Larkspur, $1,625,000
5 BR/4.5BA, new construction in Sleepy Hollow. Large open floor plan perfect for entertaining. Flat yard in peaceful setting.
3 BR/2.5 BA, built in 2002. Direct Mt. Tam views from most rooms. Top of the line appliances. Walk to town. Two car garage.
San Rafael, $799,950
San Rafael, $5,995,000
2,100 sq ft townhouse with 3 BR/2.5 BA. Views of Mt. Tam, sauna, updated throughout, 2 car attached garage. Close to beach and hiking trails
32 unit apartment complex in Bret Harte area. Many capital and cosmetic improvements. 21 remodeled units and newly constructed 4plex.
Coming Soon
Sausalito
San Rafael
Updated 2BD/2.5BA view condo. Granite counters, fireplace, hardwood floors. Walk to trails and open space. Short commute to SF.
Quite town home in Marinwood. 2BR/1.5BA, fireplace, private patio, community pool.
San Anselmo—$1,099,000
Sausalito—$969,000
Mill Valley—$649,000
200 Oakcrest Road
14 Kendell Court
368 Shoreline Hwy
Private gated home on 1/2 acre with views of the surrounding hills. 3 bedroom, 2 baths, granite slab counters, stainless appliances, fireplace, decks, courtyard, grass yard, garage. Updated for today with expansion possibilities for tomorrow.
Enjoy the Marin lifestyle with easy access to the city. This home consists of 3 bedrooms plus office, 3.5 bathrooms. 2 fireplaces, 2 decks, 2 car garage. Enjoy the ammenities of home ownership without the hassle as the homeowners association takes care of the exterior maintenance.
Why buy a condo when you could have this single family dwelling in Mill Valley. With 2 bedrooms and 1 bathroom, garage, large yard and back deck. This is the perfect house to attain your dream of home ownership and buy into an excellent public school system.
Sausalito—SOLD!
San Rafael—SOLD!
180 Spencer Ave.
19 Circle Drive
Unparalled views from Mt. Tam, to Strawberry, Tiburon, Belvedere and beyond. Five minutes from San Francisco and up the hill from all that Sausalito has to offer. 3 bedroom, 3 baths, fireplace and decks, garage and separate guest suite.
Mid 20th Century Contemporary design. Ceiling to floor windows makes this house extremely light and bright. 3 bedroom, 3 baths includes in-law unit. 3 decks, large back yard, off street parking on carport.
Contact me for an analysis of your home, the real estate market, or a copy of The Marin Report Monthly Newsletter
Ross
21 UPPER ROAD WEST
T
his is Marin living at its best. Midcentury design on 2.1 acres with forever views of Ross Valley, Mt. Tam and the Bay. This gated, private estate has 4 bedrooms, 4.5 bathrooms, large family room plus library and wine cellar, extensive gardens, oak trees and walking paths. The pool, spa, patios and decks are perfect for entertaining and for taking in the panoramic views. This amazing property sits just a stone’s throw away from Mt. Baldy, so hiking and biking trails are at your back door and serenity prevails. Don’t miss this opportunity to see one of Ross’ finest homes! Offered at $4,500,000
Corte Madera 659 CHAPMAN DRIVE
R
elaxed sophistication reigns in this beautifully appointed shingled home reminiscent of the Maybeck style with exceptional views and designed with an artistic and quality approach for the discriminating buyer. This five bedroom, four plus two half bath masterpiece is built on two thirds of an acre with level lawn, a central stone courtyard with fireplace and a separate art studio. Features include a guest suite with French doors opening to the gardens, a media room with wet bar and wine refrigerator and three high efficiency heat zones. This is a very special property indeed! Offered at $3,995,000
Offered exclusively by
For additional information, please call:
Susan Bowman Morgan Lane Marin
The Fine Art of Fine Property
415/448-1111 www.morganlane.com sbowman@morganlane.com
Sold in 7 Days with 3 Offers 151 Eldridge, Mill Valley List price $1,295,000
It’s All Ab o u t S OL D ! S OL D !
SOLD!
S O LD !
S OL D !
• Why do 20% of agents do 80% of the business? Top producing, seasoned agents know what is important to sell a home. They get results. Top agents will get you more money, in a shorter period of time with less stress. • People are talking: “We have just sold our home in Sonoma. I was reminded of how you marketed and sold our Mill Valley home so efficiently: • You gave us the most detailed set of comps/recent sales and some solid coaching on the tradeoffs between pricing and time to sell. • You were insistent that we get the home “market ready”. • You beautifully handled a very troublesome neighbor and reached a quick compromise that was very acceptable. “Beyond the call of duty!” Result was that we sold our home quickly, with a minimum of fuss and at my target price.” - J & K Davies • Marin-Hawaii Connection: I lived in Hawaii, Maui and Oahu for 13 years. I developed strong ties to the islands. I have owned an oceanfront condo on Maui for 6 years. Best investment I have ever made. Call me about Hawaii! Stephanie Witt Southern Marin Specialist since 1989 415.380.6136 Stephanie.Witt@pacunion.com www.SwittMarinHomes.com
Ross Beauty pervades throughout this ARTFULLY ENGAGING 3 story vintage brown shingle that has been rebuilt, remodeled and refined, gracefully situated on a sunny, private, almost acre. The traditional floor plan includes formal living and dining rooms, music room, spectacular showcase kitchen/breakfast/family room, 4 bedroom/3 bath plus 2 half bath, spacious den/office and alluring generous view veranda. Enchanting gardens surround the lawn and picturesque pool. Premier Ross location, just steps from Ross School and trails. $6,850,000
Kentfield LOCATION! LOCATION! This classic contemporary home is well sited off the street for maximum privacy, great sun and awesome Mt. Tam views. The desirable floor plan has 4 bedrooms on the main level, formal living and dining rooms, updated granite kitchen/breakfast room that opens to a spacious private patio surrounded by greenbelt. The lower level has an office/den (with own entrance), 3rd bath and family room. The sparkling pool is solar heated and graced by lush gardens. Enjoy the convenience of this great location. $2,389,000
Novato A true EYE FOR DESIGN is reflected in the comprehensive upgrades throughout this 4 bedroom/3 bath exquisite home. High ceilings and generous rooms contribute to a light, airy, spacious feel. The unusually large lot has deck, lawn and fruit trees and backs to open space for maximum privacy and serenity. Move right in and enjoy the convenience of this quiet location. $998,000
Chileno Valley Land RARE OPPORTUNITY to build your dream home on 20 acres of level pristine land. Well has been installed (6.5 gallons per minute) and it’s septic ready for 5 bedrooms. Easily accessible from the road, it has a beautiful building site and incredible plans available. Very sunny with mature trees, peaceful views of the surrounding hills and the San Antonio Creek runs through it. Horses…orchards…the true beauty of Marin. $989,000
Judy Smith (415) 925-3211 jsmith@fhallen.com
Since 1977, Paradise Properties, a family owned and operated boutique firm specializing in residential and commercial sales and property management.
Natasha Najafi, Real Estate Broker PARADISE PROPERTIES 1001 Bridgeway, Sausalito 415.332.7900 • www.paradisep.com We are proud to announce that Dennis Morrow has joined the team at Paradise Properties. Dennis has been with Coldwell Banker in Marin County for 19 years. One of Marin’s Top Producers, Dennis will be a wonderful asset to Paradise Properties.
Dennis Morrow Realtor
VISIT A FEW OF OUR OUTSTANDING PROPERTIES: TIBURON www.35andrew.com 3 bd/2 bath with 3 decks, stunning Mt. Tam and SF views, $738,000 www.30andrew.com 2 bd/1 bath remodel with granite counters, slate floors and SF and bay views, $689,000
TIBURON www.3245paradisedrive.com 4 bd/2 bath on over 1 acre, surrounded by gardens, waterfalls and bay views, $3,495,000 coming soon! 2 Lyford, #5 2 bedroom with views, $925,000
PETALUMA www.4087petalumablvd.com 2 bd/1 bath adorable remodel, $389,000 ROSS www.55sirfrancisdrake.com 3 bd/3 full bath remodel with family room, office + pool, $1,425,000 or lease option
“Service to our client is our first priority.”
Discover Your Sonoma Dream
Bill Dardon The Real Estate Company
Beautiful historical presentation is the perfect setting for your indoor and outdoor living and entertaining. This completely, newly reconstructed 3450+ square foot, single story, offers 4 bedroom, 3.5 bath, and is situated on a 1/4 acre lot, located only 2 blocks from Sonoma’s Historic Plaza. Amenities include open floor plan, 22’ foot ceilings, gourmet kitchen, great room, master bedroom suite with French doors leading to poolside, guest suite, in-ground pool beautifully framed in flagstone. Mature landscape includes fruit trees as well as a lovely large lawn area for entertaining evenings. Offered at $2,585,000. See this gem at www.tourfactory.com/316439
34 West Spain Street, Sonoma www.realestatesonoma.com • (707) 938.1999 • (800) 938.1922
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Stately Home
IN THE FLATS OF
Kent Woodlands
THIS GRACIOUS FAMILY HOME SITS ON ALMOST ONE FULLY USABLE AND VERY SUNNY ACRE IN THE FLATS OF Kent Woodlands. The home boasts over 5600 square feet of living area, consisting of 6 bedrooms and 5.5 bathrooms, including a luxurious private master suite with office, on its own level. Most of the home has recently been renovated with attention given to every detail. The newly designed foyer opens to a grand living room with wet bar, fireplace and very high ceilings. The formal dining room has it own custom built-in cabinets with large picture windows. The huge kitchen will impress even the most serious chefs. Off the kitchen, is a breakfast area and family room, which opens to the beautiful and private grounds. There is recessed lighting throughout along with elegant Italian fixtures, built-in sound system for both inside and out and three fireplaces. All the main rooms have been designed for easy flow from one room to the next. The property offers dramatic views of Mt. Tam. and also a pool, level lawns, patios, deck and manicured gardens. A well on the property provides assistance with the irrigation, and the property is fully fenced. This is a home that can elegantly accommodate both intimate and grand occasions alike. All this and just a short walk to award winning Kentfield schools, restaurants and shopping. PRICE UPON REQUEST.
Additional EXCLUSIVE Listing ▼ NOT on MLS 1 Level Acre on private street in Indian Valley. Wonderful horse property in Novato with modest 4 bedroom 2 bath home, barn, 3 stalls and 4 separate corrals. $1,075,000.
M
Margie E-Smith Real Estate MARGIE ESMERIAN-SMITH • BROKER, GRI, E-PRO • 415-461-7194 DIRECT • Margie@MarinBeautifulHomes.com EMAIL
Eichler Home Tour & Exotic Car Show
Open Hearts, Open Homes September 15th & 16th, 2007 Marin County leads the U.S. with the largest number of Eichler homes, as recognized by the National Registry of Historic Places
For tickets & information, call (415) 526-5500, or visit www.hospicebythebay.org/Calendar/Events.html Open Hearts, Open Homes benefits Hospice By The Bay, serving Marin, San Francisco and Sonoma
Just a few minutes north of the Golden Gate, yet a million miles away, is Seadrift at Stinson Beach. For over 30 years, Seadrift Company has been the expert in Real Estate sales and premium vacation rentals in Stinson Beach and the private gated community of Seadrift. Call us today to reserve your beach house... for a week, a summer or a lifetime.
VIEW OUR PROPERTIES ONLINE AT WWW . SEADRIFTREALTY . COM AND CALL US AT 415.868.1791
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
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OPES/opés/ • n./latin for wealth
Jeffrey T. Smith Melanie Victor-Smith 101 Larkspur Landing Circle Larkspur, CA 94939
(415) 464-9500 Palo Alto • Marin • San Mateo Real Estate Broker – CA Dept. of Real Estate License # 01458652
Your home & mortgage - two of the largest numbers on your balance sheet - do you know how to think about this? We can help. Refinance
opesadvisors.com
•
Purchase
Mortgages
◆
•
Equity Lines
Investments
President Elect, Marin Women’s Council of Realtors
◆
•
Construction Advice
Judy LeMarr 415-380-4642 jlemarr@fhallen.com www.marindreamhome.com
FRANK HOWARD ALLEN REALTORS Marin’s oldest real estate firm
Service Experience
Results 200
MARIN SEPTEMBER 2007
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A J E S T I C W I N E C O U N T RY R E T R E AT
ORE THAN A HOME: A DESTINATION, A LIFESTYLE, A WORK OF ART
Rarely does a property of this importance become available. It is one of a very few prized Sonoma estates that incorporates the splendor of nature, the privacy and serenity that extensive acreage affords, a prime eastside location, and a simply exquisite home, designed with extraordinary details; built to exacting standards. This home is quite literally a crown jewel, located on a knoll at the top of Sonoma's prestigious “Ranch.” The property is almost 13 acres in size. Incomparable views are 360 degrees and encompass such sights as San Francisco, the entire North Bay, and the rolling hills and vineyards of the Sonoma Valley. Viewing is by appointment only. Qualified buyers only, please. This property is for the discriminating individual who values quality and distinction. Offered at: $8,000,000
Carol L. Spence — 7 0 7 . 9 9 6 . 1 1 1 1 THE ABOVE INFORMATION IS DEEMED RELIABLE BUT HAS NOT BEEN VERIFIED BY LISTING BROKER AND IS NOT GUARANTEED
V I E W M O R E P H O T O S O N L I N E AT: W W W. F H A L L E N . C O M C L I C K O N : LU X U R Y P O R T F O L I O F I N E P R O P E R T Y C O L L E C T I O N
D I A LO GUE
Sarah Clark
BY MIMI TOWLE
You could live anywhere. Why Marin? My husband and I only had two weeks to find a place before our cars and all our crap was coming on a truck from Philadelphia. At the last minute we found a twobedroom rental in Sausalito. It wasn’t until we’d settled in that we realized how lucky we were. What makes you happy in Marin? Besides my family, I love the Golden Gate Bridge, I love the views, I love the school my kids are at and the little-town feeling of Mill Valley. I also love the festivals and the giant oak trees in the middle of fields as you drive north. Basically, I love the natural beauty and sense of community. What bothers you here? The bad rap that people who don’t live here give it…and that sometimes the bad rap is true. What do you value every day? Besides my family: my free time and my privacy. What is your personal idea of luxury? Having nothing to do and nowhere to go!
B
orn in Boston, Sarah Clark dreamed of being a rock star. But it was years of admiring the on-air style of Charles Laquidara, longtime morning show host at WBCN Boston, that ultimately
steered her path. For the past 20 years, Clark has cohosted her own morning show, nearly half that time here in the Bay Area with Alice
What person has influenced you the most? I can’t name just one. My parents are a huge influence. My husband, John, has really changed me (trained me) over the years and has shown me what’s important and what’s not and how to separate those things. I’m a lot neater now, too (he’s a total neat freak).
Radio (97.3 FM). On air, she says what most of us are thinking (sometimes), and she’s not out to make friends. While her honesty can make listeners cringe or laugh out loud, they’ve been fiercely loyal—putting the show in the number-one slot (for women age 25 to 44, according
What has been the most fulfilling moment in your work? In my work, probably voicing a little part in the movie Cars. I just felt like, this is it, how can anything be more fun? It felt like the zenith of my career (I guess I’m on the downslope now).
to the Arbitron rating service) many years in a row. Despite her high-profile persona, once she gets home to Mill Valley, Clark morphs into a sorta-typical Marin mom. “I love to be at home in sweats and no shoes,” she says. “I spend a lot of time at my kids’ school, watching them ride their scooters or playing baseball.” She also enjoys “time-wasting games like Word Racer and Text Twist.” And as a serial house-flipper, she knows her way around a toolbox. If
What’s your desert-island favorite book or album? God, I just don’t know. Once I read a book I hardly ever reread it. Maybe a set of encyclopedias? That would keep me busy. And who wouldn’t get sick of a record after listening to it 50 million times? Maybe the Beatles anthology? What’s your favorite place to unwind? On my deck.
these talents don’t elevate her to coolest-mom status, perhaps her bit After Dark, will do the trick. Clark has used her celebrity to benefit causes close to her heart. Last year she and her Alice crew threw a “Karaoke for Cancer” party
Do you have a favorite Marin view? From the top of Strawberry Point, looking toward the city past Sausalito and Tiburon. What do you like about yourself? I have nice hands. LOL! I don’t know!
to raise funds for her friend Elizabeth and to benefit Search for the Cause. “It was just so gratifying to know that my silly job could raise so much money, and I got to see the direct result of it,” she says. 202
MARIN
SEPTEMBER 2007
How do you want to be remembered? As someone who spoke her mind. (Whether or not you agreed!)
MARINMAGAZINE.COM
PHOTO: BARBARA RIES
voice part in the movie Cars or her new TV show, Sarah and No Name
san francisco 200 stockton street 415.392.2808 san jose 333 santana row 408.557.9926 shop gucci.com