Issuu

MARI N E X T R A O R D I N A R Y

L I V I N G

OCTOBER 2007

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Equal Housing Opportunity

All proposed amenities, activities and other features are based on current plans which are subject to change without notice. Area and types of developments may change. Illustrations are artist’s conceptual renderings. Obtain the property report required by federal law and read it before signing anything. No federal or state agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of this property. Development plans and availability are subject to change. This is not an offer or solicitation in states or jurisdictions where registration is required and not yet complete. ©03/2007. All rights reserved.

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Simplicity. Elegance. Style. The soul of Italian Design.

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for your island home, call 888.665.6667 or visit us at

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single-family & paired homes an active adult & attached homes townhomes & stacked fl ats 2-4 bedrooms, up to 4.5 baths continuing care community 2-3 bedrooms, up to 3 baths 2-4 bedrooms, up to 3.5 baths 1,653 to 2, 491 square feet dedicated to wellness 1, 406 to 1,972 square feet 1,208 to 1,850 square feet new phase from the $900,000’s coming soon final phase from the $700,000’s from the $600,000’s

The information provided herein is not intended to be and does not constitute an offer or solicitation to sell and shall not be used in any state where prohibited by law or where registration requirements have not been met. We reserve the right to change any information contained herein without any prior notice and disclaim any duty to update the information. If you wish to register with us we will, to the extent legally permissible, provide you with the public report and other pertinent information concerning the project. Upgraded features are offered. Information available upon request. Features subject to change without notice. Total square footage is approximate and represents the aggregate living space, lanai(s), garage, entry, and, if applicable, courtyard area.

My favorite part about Hawai‘i is living my dreams.

CONTENTS

Features 80 think

The Quarry Quandry

What’s a serene neighborhood—or vital business—to do? story jim wood photos tim porter

86 life

Mill Valley Film Festival Turns 30

Celebrating three decades of outstanding cinema. story bonnie monte

92 here and there

Tiburon Francophiles

Marin family lives French country lifestyle in Tiburon and abroad. story p. j. bremier photos barbara ries

100 journey

Loire Valley

The playground of kings. story & photos pat woeber

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

CONTENTS

Departments110

letters

at a glance

album

green

snap

fashion trends

Readers respond to Marin Magazine.

Hot tips day by day for the Bay Area.

Between sea and sky. by tim porter

Good Earth Natural Foods. by mimi towle

Out and about, in and around Marin.

Latest in men’s accessories for the weekend. by somer ﬂaherty Over-the-top additions to men’s fall wardrobe. by somer ﬂaherty

life style

fyi

San Anselmo’s Tzeira Sofer shares thoughts on living in Marin.

Health: October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. by somer ﬂaherty Causes: Design for Marin. by samantha bronson Books: Outside In by Courtney Thorne-Smith. by samantha berry People: Judy Kimmel’s vision for world peace. by bonnie monte Business: Fractional opportunities within a 90-mile radius. by m. l. lathan Events: The Bioneer tribe gathers in Marin. by ross thomas Community: The Headlands Institute. by tim porter Auto: Tiburon’s Bruce Ross and his passion for cars. by brian douglas

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

www.piaget.com

Altiplano

76 CONTENTS

Departments

120

76 conversation

Marin County Supervisor Charles McGlashan. by jim wood

106

go Reno, “Biggest Little City in the World.” by robert kaufman Connoisseur’s heaven on the Central Coast. by robert kaufman

112 first person

Finding a good doctor is the best medicine. by dawn yun

116 play

Fly-ﬁshing for trout is a lifelong challenge. by bruce raskin

120 looking back

Artist Sam Francis and his Marin County ties. by jim wood

124

calendar A roundup of performing arts, events, galleries and more.

flavor

138

E&O Trading Company. by erika lenkert Dine Out, an insider’s guide to Bay Area restaurants.

154 microclimate

Olema, beyond the intersection, in West Marin. by jim wood

178 dialogue

Judi Shils of Search for the Cause. by mimi towle

Columns The Cover Two Trees, by Bay Area

view from mount tam

pov

The creators of Marin Magazine welcome you to share their vision.

photographer Chris Honeysett. His work can be seen at chrishoneysett.com. 12

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

Deciding Marin’s Future. by jim wood

A Vineyard Oasis Called Home

INTRODUCING THE ORCHARD RESIDENCES AT THE CARNEROS INN, A PLUMPJACK RESORT

Surrounded by the Carneros vineyards, T H E O R C H A R D is a community like no other. A special destination designed to celebrate the good life, provide an escape from the ordinary and transport visitors to a more simple time and a slower pace. T H E O R C H A R D is a perfect balance of modern design, old world ambiance, rural charm and luxury resort. A place where relaxation and indulgence are priorities but authentic connection to the land and rich, social experiences are equally important. A casual, serene retreat in the heart of Napa – less than one hour from San Francisco, yet a world apart.

Fractional ownership starting under $300,000. To learn more about this limited opportunity, call 888.PlumpJack or visit TheOrchardatCarneros.com This invitation is not intended to be an offering in any jurisdiction other than in California. In particular, this invitation is not intended to be an offering in any jurisdiction (other than in California) if such invitations are subject to qualification, registration or other regulation.

for Wovens

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Visit our website: nkah.com

for Life

Editorial editorial director Nikki Wood ext 105 nwood@marinmagazine.com

executive editor Jim Wood ext 106 jwood@marinmagazine.com

associate editor Mimi Towle ext 101 mtowle@marinmagazine.com

editor-at-large Tim Porter tporter@marinmagazine.com

departments editor Somer Flaherty ext 103 sflaherty@marinmagazine.com

copy editor/proofreader Cynthia Rubin

editorial contributors P. J. Bremier, Samantha Berry, Samantha Bronson, Brian Douglas,

Thank goo d n es s f o r

Erika Lenkert, Bonnie Monte, Bruce Raskin,

Wailea Beach Villas

Anne Ray, Ross Thomas, Nancy Williams,

ESCAPE TO THE RESORT THAT INVITES YOU TO INDULGE Is it a beachfront massage with warm cocoa butter coated stones, a personal chef creating a culinary masterpiece in your in-suite gourmet kitchen, a sweet tropical drink at your very own plunge pool, or a beach attendant offering you a cool face cloth…we invite to experience Wailea Beach Villas in beautiful Maui.

What’s your definition of luxury resort? (this is ours)

Pat Woeber, Dawn Yun

Art art director Trpti Todd ext 112 trpti@yahoo.com

production manager Alex French ext 111 production@marinmagazine.com

production artist Steve Mak

contributing photographers Drew Altizer, R. Valentine Atkinson, Gary Ferber, Tanya Johnsen, Sheri Montgomery, Barbara Ries, Heather Wiley

Administration controller Maeve Walsh ext 104 mwalsh@marinmagazine.com Marin Magazine, One Harbor Dr, Ste 208,

866-901-5207

www.waileabeachvillas.com

A distinctive experience provided by Destination Hotels & Resorts.

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

Sausalito, CA 94965, phone: 415.332.4800, fax: 415.332.3048, web: marinmagazine.com, e-mail: editorial@marinmagazine.com

Advertising publisher Lisa Shanower 415.332.4800 ext 107 lshanower@marinmagazine.com

advertising director Courtney Q. Roberts ext 108 croberts@marinmagazine.com

account manager Michele Johnson ext 110 mjohnson@marinmagazine.com

account manager Genevieve Luckel ext 109 gluckel@marinmagazine.com

regional sales offices california media marin associates Lora Dinga 415.898.6400

robert kaufman associates Robert Kaufman 415.721.0558

new york couture marketing Karen Couture 917.821.4429

southeast tlc media Cindy Taylor 404.459.6578

hawaii destination marketing Debbie Joseph Shana Wong 808.739.2200

advertising art director Alex French ext 111 production@marinmagazine.com Volume 3, Issue 10. Marin Magazine is published in Marin County by Marin Magazine LLC. All rights reserved. Copyright©2007. Reproduction of Marin Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Marin Magazine LLC. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed monthly to homes and businesses in Marin County. Subscription rates are $36 per year. Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Sausalito, CA 94965. Phone 415.332.4800, fax 415.332.3048, e-mail editorial@marinmagazine.com, website marinmagazine.com. marin magazine is printed on 30% post consumer waste paper member of the bpa worldwide: fsc-certified products originate from well-managed forests.

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

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V I E W F R O M M O U N T TA M

THIS ISSUE GETS OFF TO—warning, pun ahead—a rocky

we talk with county Supervisor Charles McGlashan about

start with a look at the controversy over the San Rafael

growth, the environment and other issues. Dialogue con-

Rock Quarry. This nearly 80-year-old big dig on Point San

verses with Judi Shils, director of Search for the Cause

Pedro Road provides the stone that keeps California’s le-

(our FYI Health department focuses on October as breast

vee system intact, but neighbors say they’ve had enough

cancer awareness month). We meet Mill Valley activ-

of the noise and dust. We delve into the quandary.

ist Judy Kimmel, who’s pushing for creation of a U.S.

One local institution over which there is no dispute

Department of Peace. And San Rafael writer Dawn Yun,

is the Mill Valley Film Festival, which turns 30 this year.

leader of the Writing Mamas salon, tells us about her

Founder Mark Fishkin talks with Bonnie Monte about how

frustrating—and scary—search for a doctor who could

he turned his simple desire to show some good movies to

diagnose and treat her rare disease.

the locals into one of the nation’s premier film events.

Also in this issue, Erika Lenkert tastes the small and

We were feeling un petit peu français as we put this

large plates at E&O Trading Co. in Larkspur Landing,

month’s magazine together, so we have two wonderful

Bruce Raskin finds fly-fishing to be a lifelong challenge,

stories about France. Pat Woeber journeys to the Loire

we rediscover Olema in Microclimates, and Tim Porter

Valley and in words and images takes us on a tour of the

explores the Headlands Institute in Fort Cronkhite.

royal châteaux between Orleans and Tours. The French-

As always, our wish is for your good reading. Enjoy

Marin connection continues as P. J. Bremier introduces us

Marin Magazine, as we continue to celebrate this

to Matthew Le Merle and Alison Davis, a Tiburon couple

extraordinary place!

whose second home is a 15th-century château an hour north of Paris.

MARIN

Lisa Shanower, Publisher

We love bringing you stories about the people of

Nikki Wood, Editorial Director

Marin, some well known, others less so. In Conversation,

Jim Wood, Executive Editor

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

LE TTE R S

Readers respond I’ve had my doubts about Marin Magazine in the past, but I have to let you know that this September’s issue blew them all away. All the articles were excellent, both interesting

DESIGN FOR THE PERSON

and informative. I was most surprised by the article about the cafe in the Presidio Yacht Club. I’m a native Marinite, and I never knew this place existed! Cathleen Acheritogaray, via email I was delighted to see Kay Carlson’s love-

Lighting and Furnishings from Lunaria Interior Design by Jessica Hall Associates

ly painting grace the cover of your magazine (August issue). Kay has been a friend of mine for years as well as my art teacher. I have several of her paintings in my home. I’m tempted to frame the cover of your magazine! Congrats on another great issue. I was especially glad to see the article on the great work Trisha Garlock is doing with the Kiddo program in the arts. Barbara Squires, San Rafael In an age when the media is all abuzz decrying that no one reads periodicals anymore, it appears that Marin Magazine is the exception to the rule. It is only August 22, but (thanks to your September issue) I’ve already been stopped on the streets dozens of times, mostly by people I don’t know, with comments like “nice photo” or “good article” or “nice piece.” Well, maybe they all weren’t about the magazine. I was taking my garbage out this morning (in my robe and fuzzy slippers) and someone said, ‘They must have retouched that pic a lot.’ Thanks for a very nice overview of the Sausalito Art Festival and my 15 minutes of fame. And congratulations for

www.lunaria.us tel 415.461.0588

having a very diverse and loyal readership. Joseph Lillis, via email

1108 Magnolia Ave Larkspur CA 94939

Letters to the editor may be edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965. Or email jwood@marinmagazine.com.

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Beachfront living at Estrella del Mar: Accessible. Affordable. Unforgettable.

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Sponsored by Club Acquisition Company, Subdivision: Estrella del Mar Golf and Beach Resort, Mazatlán, México. AZ Registration No.: DM05-049581, AZ Broker: Brooks, Byron & Associates, LLC. CA Seller of Travel No.:206730740, CA Broker: R-Mac & Associates, Inc. CO Registration No.: SD-3905, CO Broker: 3D Realty Inc. NV Seller of Travel No.: 2005-0084. UT Telemarketing Registration #T9152 IMS, Inc. Washington UBI. No.: 602.505.896. HUD ILS No.: 31321. Price, terms and availability subject to change without notice. Equal housing and credit opportunity. This promotional piece is not intended to constitute an offering in violation of the law in any jurisdiction. Complete offer information is available upon request. Models do not reﬂect racial preference. The California Dept. of Real Estate does not regulate international offerings. Warning: The CDRE has not qualiﬁed, inspected or examined this offering, including, but not limited to the condition of title, the status of blanket liens on the project (if any), arrangements to assure project completion, escrow practices, control over the project management, racial discriminatory practices (if any), terms, conditions, and price of the offer, control over assessments (if any), or the availability of water, services, utilities or improvements. It may be advisable for you to consult an attorney or knowledgeable professional who is familiar with real estate and development law in the country where this is subdivision is situated. This Offer is void where prohibited. EDM5378.

POV

Deciding Marin’s Future Countywide Plan will set a course for the next 10 years

BY JIM WOOD

of her adult life studying and advocating for af-

every 60 acres. “Now the supervisors are con-

fordable housing. “No scientific tools, such as

sidering no more than 8,500 cumulative square

field studies, have been cited to justify extend-

feet of housing no matter how large a parcel is

ing the corridor’s boundary.”

involved,” says Dominic Grossi, a third-genera-

St. Vincent’s is owned by the Catholic

tion Novato dairy farmer and a vice president

Church, which operates a school for at-risk boys

of the Marin County Farm Bureau. “That means

on the site and barely maintains its cluster of

where we once could have seven homes on our

majestic 80-year-old buildings that house such

460 acres, now we can have maybe four—and

entities as the Holy Rosary Chapel, Marin Dance

three have already been built for Grossi family

Theatre and the Dunham Academy.

members. This greatly devalues our property,

In order to raise money to improve its hold-

which is our retirement.”

ings, St. Vincent’s wants to develop what it calls

Grossi says no active rancher or farmer was

a “Community of Care”—a larger youth facil-

involved in putting together the final proposal

ity, 350 units of housing for seniors (affordable

(no one at the county could or would refute that

and market rate), a retirement community, and

claim). “It adds another restriction when we al-

workforce housing for caregivers. All together

ready have too many restrictions,” he says. “It’s

o you want a Marin composed

that would occupy 10 percent of St. Vincent’s

becoming not feasible or economically possible

primarily of wealthy residents that

770 acres. The project complies with current

to buy or sell property in West Marin, and while

neglects seniors, working families

zoning and, according to proponents, would

we need innovative farmers here, who’s going to

and agricultural interests? A county that’s

not generate significant additional traffic nor be

buy when all this bureaucracy is involved?”

increasingly bureaucratic and discouraging

visible from the 101 Freeway.

toward business? I don’t.

Also of concern to the agricultural commu-

However, the planning commission has rec-

nity is the Countywide Plan’s intent to designate

Marin’s Board of Supervisors is hold-

ommended Marin supervisors extend the corri-

public trails over privately held agricultural land.

ing hearings on a major update of the

dor into St. Vincent’s and that the church build

“I know they’ll be listed as ‘proposed trails,’”

Countywide Plan. That plan, first crafted in

no more than 221 units (121 affordable; 100

Grossi says. “But if a rancher wants to improve

1974 and updated every 10 years since (now

market rate) on 5 percent of the property.

property where a ‘proposed trail’ has been des-

it’s three years overdue), will be the next

This position not only violates the intent of

ignated, he’ll be required to convey a ‘voluntary

decade’s blueprint for development. At stake

the current Countywide Plan, it is unfair. “The

easement’ as part of the permitting process, and

is whether Marin will continue to be a pro-

Baylands Corridor contains such a web of envi-

to me that’s extortion.” (Note: Marin already has

gressive and accommodating organic entity—

ronmental restraints that reasonable economic

640 miles of hiking trails.)

or make a conservative turn toward an overly

development of St. Vincent’s would be impos-

I believe these issues represent unnecessary

rigid and restrictive future.

sible,” says Binsacca. “Whatever happened to

encroachment of local government into private

A key issue (which I wrote about in June)

the concept of sustainability promised in the

property rights—under the guise of “protecting

involves extending an environmental protec-

Countywide Plan? Whatever happened to fair-

the environment.” Marin’s environment is al-

tion device, the “Baylands Corridor,” to include

ness and equity to the property’s owners?”

ready more than well protected and it’s time the

all of St. Vincent’s, a 770-acre parcel adjacent to

A second critical issue under consideration

county concern itself with the needs of seniors,

Highway 101 north of San Rafael. “It is noth-

in the Countywide Plan update involves home

the working class and its farmers and ranchers.

ing but a ploy to halt development on the site,

sizes and public trails on West Marin agricultur-

That’s my point of view. If you agree, please

even for much-needed affordable housing,” says

al land. The current plan zones much of the area

contact your supervisor at bos@co.marin.ca.us

Tiburon’s Judy Binsacca, who has spent much

A-60, meaning only one home is permitted on

or 415.499.7331.

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Merrill Magowan, Chairman, Board of Directors The Marine Mammal Center

Tulip Rescued 4/3/07

AS IT TURNS OUT, WE’RE HELPING MORE THAN A NON-PROFIT THRIVE. There are animal lovers. And there are those who devote their time to rescue, rehabilitate and release injured and orphaned marine mammals. At Bank of Marin, we’re proud to handle The Marine Mammal Center’s day-to-day banking activities and help support their fundraising campaign for their new facility. After all, we know that to truly be a business community bank, you first have to build a successful community.

San Francisco

Sausalito

Mill Valley Corte Madera www.bankofmarin.com

San Rafael

Novato

Petaluma

AT A GLAN C E

OCTO BER OCTOBER 3 The Bay Institute

Israeli artist Michael Kovner presents a novel perspective on New York City and its surroundings in his second solo show. George Krevsky Gallery (SF). 415.397.9748

At the Celebrating H20 Headwaters to Ocean annual event, raise funds to protect and restore the San Francisco Bay and its entire watershed. Westin St. Francis (SF). 415.506.0150, bay.org

OCTOBER 4–14 Mill Valley Film Festival

OCTOBER 7 Breakfast With Clifford

THRU OCTOBER Hawk Hill

The festival turns 30 and brings new talent showcasing international features, shorts and other works from around the world. Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center (San Rafael). 415.383.5256, mvff.com

Bring the camera when kids meet the big red dog for breakfast. After, tour the Clifford exhibit before the museum opens. Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito). 415.339.3954, baykidsmuseum.org

Up to 2,000 hawks a day will pass the Headlands during their fall migration to catch the thermal wind currents necessary to cross the Golden Gate. Marin Headlands (Sausalito). marintrails.com

PHOTO: GEORGE KREVSKY GALLERY

THRU OCTOBER 27 I Love New York

OCTOBER 7 & 9 The Battleship Potemkin

EVE NT S IN MA R IN & B EYO N D

Marin Symphony brings a live orchestral score to the screening of this silent film. Marin Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.479.8100, marinsymphony.org

For national Pharmacy month, Pharmaca is hosting a medication review with Nathan D. Pope, who can answer medication questions. Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy (Novato). 415.892.3700, pharmaca.com

OCTOBER 20–28 World Premiere

OCTOBER 28 Peter Frampton

OCTOBER 29 Halloween Heroes

The award-winning troupe Na Lei Hulu I Ka Wekiu perform “O‘ahu: Confessions of an Island” with traditional hula. Palace of Fine Arts Theatre (SF). 415.392.4400, naleihulu.org

The ’70s arena star will be rocking Marin with classics like “Baby, I Love Your Way” and “Do You Feel Like We Do.” Marin Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

Trick-or-treaters will meet professional athletes from around the bay during this annual event for the junior Giants baseball program. Exploratorium (SF). 650.321.4142, wenderweis.org

OCTOBER 30 Last Chance

OCTOBER 31 Halloween

Weather permitting, it’s the last day of the Novato Farmers’ Market. Don’t miss out on fresh produce from all over the Bay Area. Grant Street in downtown Novato.

Get your candy fix, carve a jack-o’-lantern, visit a haunted house and don’t forget a scary or ghoulish costume.

OCTOBER 11 Prescription Help

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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M A R I N ALBUM

Between Sea and Sky BY TIM PORTER “Hey! You! Get off of my cloud. Hey! You!

IN THE LATE DAYS OF SUMMER, when cold upwellings from the Paciﬁc feed the coastal fog machine, sun lovers know that sea level is not the place to be. If you want to turn those gray skies blue, you’ve got to climb for it. First, do something counterintuitive—head toward where the fog is often the thickest: Mill

Get off of my cloud.”

Valley. Then take the turn at the 2 AM Club—the Deuce, as the locals say—and you’re on

— MICK JAGGE R ,

your way up. Go past the far reaches of Homestead Valley, crest the ridge cradling Muir

K E ITH R ICH A R DS

Woods, glide onto the S-curves of the Panoramic Highway and, at Pantoll, follow the hard right toward the summit of Tam. Not that much farther, just as the fog-loving redwoods give way to the sun-seeking Douglas ﬁrs, you’ll break out of the cloud. Find a grassy knoll—there are plenty available, especially on a weekday afternoon— pull over and soak in the sun. Below, a ﬂuffy canopy of fog, tinted by the unbroken blue above, hides the sea. All around, humps of hillsides, golden with drying grass, march upward and downward. The wind, strong but warm, provides the only sound. Then, a hum, steady and growing, approaches. A wheel turning fast on asphalt. A sole rider. He passes swiftly, hunched low PHOTO: TIM PORTER

over his bike, and chicanes through the curves, moving down Marin’s magical mountain on a journey somewhere between sea and sky.

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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M A R I N GR E E N

Good Earth Natural Foods Good people good food

BY MIMI TOWLE

he hands on the wall clock slowly

1969 and has been a model for health-con-

unlike any imaginable,” he says. “Our knowl-

dragged past 9:30 p.m. last July 11 at

scious grocers ever since. Squire is well known

edgeable staff has contributed to our success

the Fairfax Women’s Club. Linda Kelly,

for his involvement in creating California

in this great town. We all take our work very

manager of this town known for progressive

Certiﬁed Organic Farmers (CCOF), a third-

seriously, knowing the origins of the foods

thought, had just read aloud Ordinance No.

party organic certiﬁcation program. With co-

we sell, and yet we all seem to have fun

722, requiring all grocery stores, food sellers

owner Al Baylacq (pictured below), he also

while doing it. Our customers, old and new,

and other retailers to use compostable plas-

helped launch the Good Earth School Hot

sense that energy when they walk in and

tic, recyclable paper and/or reusable check-

Lunch Program, which serves about 4,000

have come to trust our integrity.” Squire

out bags. Could this be done? “Yes!” said

all-organic lunches a week at seven Marin

also credits the community for this success.

Mark Squire, founder and co-owner of Good

schools, using no plastic packaging and

“Good Earth has been lucky to be part of

Earth Natural Foods. In fact, Good Earth had

distributing via a ﬂeet of biodiesel vans.

one of the great environmental success sto-

For Baylacq, who was involved in Good

ries, the organic food movement, which has

plastics—no surprise for a green-certified

Earth’s move and expansion to its current

demonstrated that great food can be pro-

business that uses wind and solar energy and

location on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, a

duced without using the poisons of conven-

forgoes use of harsh chemicals.

long-held dream of a true community food

tional agriculture. We are proud to be part

Good Earth Natural Foods originally

store has come true. “The partnership we

of a community that understood and sup-

opened its doors at 123 Bolinas Avenue in

have with this community at so many levels is

ported us in this effort all these years.”

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

already started its own campaign against

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

the whole home : yes

complimentary consultation | 800.274.6754 | californiaclosets.com Showroom: 610 DuBois Street, San Rafael

Visit our beautiful showroom!

S NA P Tommy Moon, Renel Brooks-Moon

WESTIN SAN FRANCISCO

Vern and Nicole Glenn

Mike Casey, Charles Weiser

Samantha and John Bovich

Eli Olson, Brian Leonard

Trunk Shows and Openings Marinites like Mill Valley resident and KRON sportscaster Vern Glenn were seen at the grand opening of the Westin San Francisco Market Street. The night was a celebration of the $30 million renovation and included a silent auction benefiting Friends of Faith, which provides financial assistance to breast cancer patients. At the Corte Madera Goodnite Moon grand reopening celebration, with new owner Annie Jackson, parents were treated to child safety information along with a free DNA packet, photo and fingerprinting of their kids. Cupcakes, clowns, face painting and balloon an-

GOODNITE MOON

imals rounded out the day’s events. Back over the bridge the San Francisco location of Bettina (the Marin store is in Sausalito) hosted a trunk show featuring the designs of Thailand’s Ziroco, which owner Doretta Boehm and manager Gil Schneider found when they traveled overseas to attend fashion week Asia. Shoppers viewed the entire fall and holiday collection, preordered their favorites and then left with tantalizing goodie bags.

WESTIN: DREW ALTIZER, HEATHER WILEY AND TANYA JOHNSEN

Annie Jackson, Alyssa Remington Buki the Clown, Hannah Jackson, Oliver Twist

Paula Stetler

LUXE FINDS AT BETTINA

Doretta Boehm, Gil Schneider

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

SNAP Doug, Jim, David and Nicole Canepa

MILL VALLEY FOOD AND WINE

Mariella Ceja, Kelsey Fretwell, Sara Aminzadeh

Food and Wine Lytton Plaza was the place for sipping the newest release of Silver Oak Cabernet and 70 other vinos at this year’s Mill Valley Wine and Gourmet Food Tasting. The event featured Marin restaurants Bungalow 44, Ora, Champagne French Bakery, Pasta Pomodoro and Small Shed Flatbreads, while the silent auction boasted a private wine tasting, magnums and more. Proceeds from this year’s event support the Mill Valley Chamber of Commerce. At the MacMurray Ranch in Healdsburg over 100

Peter Lewis, Sara Smith

Kathy Severson, Bob Canepa

wineries and 60 chefs were on hand to treat attendees to the ultimate tasting experience at the Sonoma County Showcase

SONOMA SHOWCASE

Amey Shaw, Carrie Brown

Eiming Young, Gian Paolo Veronese

Seneca Kern, Zainab Kinge

Weekend of Wine and Food. Between the never-ending rows of booths, crowds gathered for the Iron Chef competition, which featured some of the wine country’s top talent. After three rounds, Jeff Mall from Zin Restaurant and Wine Bar was crowned the winner. The weekend’s proceeds beneﬁt local charities. In San Francisco, former printing press turned lounge Harlot was the place to be for the launch of Saké2Me, a sparkling drink that blends imported Japanese Junmai sake with exotic all-natural Asian ﬂavors like yuzu citrus, Asian pear and green tea. Between cocktails, guests listened to music by DJ Vinnie Esperanza and

SAKÉ2ME

Jacqueline Quantrell, Erica Sanchez

MILL VALLEY/GARY FERBER, SAKE2ME/DREW ALTIZER

nibbled on food by Sushi Groove and Oola.

Johnna Renold, Jeffrey Smith, Carol Lehrman

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

OCTOBER 4–14 | 2007 tickets: 877 874 MVFF mvff.com Presented by the California Film Institute

Agency: Scheyer/SF www.scheyer.com Design: MINE™ www.minesf.com

Christopher B. and Jeannie Meg Smith

SNAP MARIN BREWING COMPANY

Beverly Burns, Denise Wells, Amy Johnson, Maggie Castanon, Jennifer Barrientos

Nicole O’Crowley, Brendan Moylan, Georgia Kolthoff, Jenn Procopio

Battling Breast Cancer Marin Brewing Company and Noonan’s Bar and Grill hosted Fermenting Change: Microbreweries Battling Breast Cancer. This year’s beer festival was the most successful to date, having earned over $35,000, with all proceeds going to the Charlotte Arne Johnson, Jim Grbac

Brian Hunt

Maxwell Complementary Clinic. At the annual Avon Walk for Breast Cancer locals spent the weekend trekking almost 40 miles,

AVON WALK

from Golden Gate Park to Mill Valley and back and then around San Francisco, all to raise funds to ﬁght the disease. Together more than 2,400 participants raised over $5.6 million, part of which has already been granted to local nonproﬁts Zero Breast Cancer and the Marin County Department of Health. Tiburon’s own Heather Cooper was the top sixth individual fundraiser for the entire walk, while Team Moxi, made up of Marin locals (and Cooper), was also the fourth annual golf fundraiser, Tee It Up to Celebrate Life, 144

Jim and Roberta Hawthorne, Julie Boone, Leigh Johnson

players gathered for a sunny afternoon at the Sonoma Golf Club. The tournament and live auction raises money for the To Celebrate Life Breast Cancer Foundation, an all-volunteer nonproﬁt that rais-

Patti Stadlin, Heather Cooper

es funds and dispenses grants to Bay Area organizations offering support programs, early detection screening, and emotional and educational services for women and men living with breast cancer.

Meg Harmon, Barbara McGovern, Joan Don, Janice Still

Tom Cooper, Greg Johnson

TEE IT UP

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

Tom Yacko, Dave Rubinger, Bruce Mack, Alan Charap

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

MICROBREWERIES/ALYSSA REMINGTON AND GABRIELLE HARRIS; TEE IT UP/PATTY SPINKS AND CATHY ROSEKRANS

the top sixth team fundraiser, with over $50,000 in donations. At

EXHIBITION + SALE of the finest in home furnishings from the top designers and manufacturers in the nation

One-Stop Shopping for furniture, lighting, flooring, bed, bath, kitchen, accessories and more! Special appearance by

Kenneth Brown of HGTV’s reDesign The latest in Green Design products, materials and technology

Decorating Tips + Design Trends from industry leaders

Free Design Consultations Complimentary Wine Receptions Outdoor Living Showcase

O CT OBER 26- 28 20 0 7 HERBST PAVILION FORT MASON CENTER SAN FRANCISCO

For more information visit

www.westerninteriorshomeshow.com

SNAP LOOKING GOOD

Nick and Julie Kunst

Roberta Masson, Hazel Kawaja, Carol Jesmore

Mary Taverna, Samantha Mohr

For Good Causes

TracyMalott, and Andrew Matthes Susan Genelle Relfe

At the 19th annual Marin/Scapes: Art That Changes Lives openingnight gala, which kicked off a ﬁve-day art beneﬁt at Escalle Winery in Larkspur, artwork from over 60 prominent artists was featured. When guest weren’t taking in the creative handiwork they were enjoying

Judd Goldsmith, Nancee Rubinstein

Belinda Berry

wine and food from E&O Trading Company, Harris’ Restaurant, Sol

Jean Swanson, Patricia Kaczmarek, Melanie Haddad

Food Puerto Rican Cuisine, The Melting Pot, Shindigs Catering, Maria Manso World Cuisine, Delicious Inc. and Ciao Bella Gelato. The event raised more than $100,000 for Buckelew Employment Services, which provides job training, placement and coaching for adults with mental illness in Marin and Sonoma. At the Four Seasons Hotel in San Francisco a day was devoted to hats when the Hospice By the Bay Foundation presented its annual Looking Good event for over 300 guests. The gathering featured a runway fashion show, luncheon, silent auction and hat contest judged by Ruth Dewson of Mrs. Dewson’s

MARIN/SCAPES

Hats, ﬁlm critic Jan Wahl, and Marin Magazine’s Jim Wood. Hospice By the Bay president and CEO Mary Taverna thanked the guests and volunteers for their support of the gala event, which raised more than $55,000 for Hospice, saying, “I tip my hat to you.” Chris and Lisa Denike

Toni Wolfson, Robert Federighi

Carol Harris, Darlene Fiscus

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

LOOKING GOOD/BLAKE DAVIS PHOTOGRAPHY

Lynn Colombo, Jay Zlotnick, Russ Colombo

Steve and Jo Rikli

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

“The Fine Art of Fine Property” Tracy McLaughlin Specializing in Marin County Properties since 1997

Tracy McLaughlin 415/464-8686 www.marinfinehomes.com tracy@marinfinehomes.com

SNAP ROSS VALLEY PLAYERS

Kurt Wobken, Cris Casswell

Stephanie Saunders Ahlberg, Alex Ross

Mary and Oak Dowling

The Word Around Town It was a sublime evening beneﬁt for the Ross Valley Players at the hilltop home of Marin residents Tom Ahlberg and Stephanie Saunders Ahlberg. The event featured a staged reading of Dear Liar by Jerome Kilty, which was directed by Cris Cassell and performed by Stephanie Saunders Ahlberg and Alex Ross. In San Francisco females were out in force at the Rock-it Room launch party for Samantha Schoech and Marin native Lisa Taggart’s new book The Bigger the Better, the

Anne Ripley, Tinka Ross, Suzie Hughes

Tighter the Sweater: 21 Funny Women on Beauty, Body Image and Other Hazards of Being Female. In addition to hilarious readings

LAUNCH PARTY

Lisa Taggart, Beth Lisick, Laura Fraser, Samantha Schoech, Kim Wong Keltner

from contributors and a raffle by cosponsors Green Apple Books and Benefit Cosmetics, there was a free brow bar with eyebrow shaping and makeup touch-ups. Also in the big city, teens from all over the country and Marin came together for a week of Young Performers International’s rock camp, which culminated in a full-on rock concert at Cafe du Nord benefiting YPI’s Young Musicians Program. Back in Marin, Simpsons fans were treated to a session with Nancy Cartwright, the voice of Bart Simpson.

BART SIMPSON IN MILL VALLEY

Back: Jeremy Lyon, Sam Ripp, Steven Munn, Front: Kris Doodha, Erika Oba, Jasmine Hulett, Sophie West, Mike Fisher

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

Greg Gory, Nancy Cartwright, Samantha Paris

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

PHOTO CREDIT: ROSS VALLEY PLAYERS/KIM TAYLOR

YOUNG PERFORMERS

Katina Griffin Dailey Method Instructor Dailey Method- Corte Madera

F Y I D ECO R

VESSELS & VANITIES

Whether you’re creating a cozy powder room or gracious master bath, one of these beautiful vessels will make any bathroom stand out. Will such stylish countertop vessels be passé by tomorrow? Not likely, says Jeff Burton of The Bath + Beyond, an 18,000-square-foot showroom in San Francisco. Butler has been in the bathroom design business for over 35 years, and he believes they are here to stay. —M.T. 2

$149, available at Expo Design

Jeff Burton Talks Vessels

Center, 1555 40th St, Oakland,

Are vessel sinks a trend? People thought they would last five years and the trend would come and go; however, everyone is responding—including the manufacturers. For example, cabinet and vanity designers are making their products in two heights: one to accommodate a drop-in sink, and one for a vessel.

510.450.3300, expo.com 4. Green brown onyx vessel by Decolav, $599, available at Expo Design Center, 1555 40th St, Oakland, 1. Moso Bamboo Vessel by Stone

They look good, but are they OK for a bathroom that is used ever y day? Absolutely. Their allure is aesthetic, but they are just as well suited for use as a drop-in sink. Even hotels such as the W are starting to put them into their rooms, to attract their frequent customers who are looking for a room that would remind them of home.

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

510.450.3300, expo.com

Forest, $700, available at The Bath + Beyond, 77 Connecticut St, 415.552.5001, bathandbeyond.com 2. Bronze Chalice vessel by Stone Forest, $1,650, available at CTW Designs, 10 Hamilton Dr, Novato, 415.883.8861, ctwdesigns.com

3. Stainless-steel vessel by Decolav,

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Dictionary.com’s, first definition for vanity is 1

excessive pride in one’s appearance, qualities, abilities, and achievements… Farther down

the page, definitions refer better to the topic at hand—a wide, 3

counter-like shelf containing a washbasin, as in the bathroom of a hotel or residence, often equipped with shelves, drawers, etc. and a cabinet built below or around a bathroom sink, primarily to hide exposed pipes. Why can’t we mix them up to make our own definition? Vanity: excessive pride in a cabinet built around a bathroom sink, often equipped with shelves drawers, etc.? Check the following products befitting our new definition. —M.T.

1. Mistral 11 by Bristol and Bath, $4,800 for entire vanity shown with sink, available at Miconi Marble & Tile, 600 Irwin St, San Rafael, 415.454.6844, miconi.com 2. Zero Pedestal by Stone Forest, $3,600, available at CTW Designs, 10 Hamilton Dr, Novato, 415.883.8861, ctwdesigns.com 3. The Atic Pop Bath Console, $3,798, available at The Bath + Beyond, 77 Connecticut St, 415.552.5001, bathandbeyond.com 4. Julien’s Bathroom Suite designed by Troy Adams, 4

$11,000, available at DJ Mehler, 165 Rhode Island, SF, 415.864.0850, djmehler.com

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

FYI FOOD

Fall Flavors Butternut Squash Soup

Autumn months bring a bounty of vegetables fresh from the farmers’ market, making October the perfect time to enjoy butternut squash soup. Try unique takes on this classic at local restaurants Pizza Antica, Piazza D’Angelo and the Lark Creek Inn, or try the following tips to savor the flavors at home.

PIAZZA D’ANGELO CHEF NICOLA NIEDDU I love how many ways you can use squash (or zucca) in dishes such as soups, risotto, pasta, side dishes and dessert. You don’t even have to add a lot of ingredients to create flavor with butternut squash because the squash has enough flavor on its own. In Italy squash is more commonly used in the zucca (a creamy butternut squash soup).

THE LARK CREEK INN

I make it with butternut squash, carrots,

CHEF ERICA HOLLAND-TOLL

PIZZA ANTICA

celery, onions, a touch of nutmeg and cin-

Fall is such a perfect time of year for this

CHEF GORDON DRYSDALE

namon and vegetable stock. For a lighter

classic soup. The sweetness of the butter-

This soup is lovely for a crisp fall day; it

soup I won’t use any cream. I usually fin-

nut squash can be a bit too much for our

complements beautifully the rich colors

ish it with amaretto cookie crumbs to add

warm days, though, so I temper the sweet-

and smells that go hand in hand with har-

some texture and a bit more sweetness.

ness by tossing nutty pumpkin seeds in a

vest time. Apples and white wine provide a

slightly hot spice mix and toasting them un-

nice acidic component to the soup, and the

til they are fragrant. The nutty heat provided

sweetness of the apples emphasizes the

by the pumpkin seeds strikes the right note

naturally occurring sugars in ripe butternut

against the creamy soup. Try adding local

squash. Pair the soup with a salad of fresh

winesap apples, which are crisp and high

fall baby greens with Dijon vinaigrette; the

in acidity; they are excellent grated and

spiciness and slight bitterness will keep

folded into a lightly seasoned fritter bat-

the rich sweetness of the soup interesting

ter and fried, giving the soup crunch and a

all the way to the last drop.

great flavor without overwhelming it.

MARIN OCTOBER 2006

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

P H OTOS : NIED D U/ H OLLA ND -TOLL: S HERI M ONTG OME RY

north and is most often served as crema di

FA S H I ON TRENDS 1 2

the latest in men’s accessories for the weekend warrior 3

After endless Monday through Fridays slaving away at the office you deserve to spend the weekend playing hard (in style) and making up for all that time staring at the computer.

1. Runners Take Your Mark The Iggy canvas trainer shoe sports chic British style (and colors of the Royal Air Force) with functional ﬂair. $70 at Ben Sherman (SF). 415.593.0671, benshermanusa.com

2. Fashionable Philanthropy Support local charities like the J. David Gladstone Institutes and Forbes Norris MDA/ALS Research Center by purchasing a charity bracelet from the Cartier Love collection. Adorned with an engraved SF on the inside; $100 from the purchase of each bracelet will be donated to selected nonprofits. $475 at Cartier (SF). 415.397.3180, cartier.com

3. Remote Communications Just because you’re hiking doesn’t mean you have to miss the latest from YouTube. This wristwatch plays audio and video and the built-in microphone allows for recording notes—like where you parked your car. $100 at Think Geek. 703.293.6299, thinkgeek.com

4. Can’t Be Late Start the ﬁshing trip on time with the Tommy Bahama Beach Comber watch, featuring a custom black resin crown, 330 feet of water resistance and Marlin logo. $125 at Odyssey (Sausalito). 415.331.8677, tommybahama.com 5. Quick Trip Muddy shoes are no problem with the Mulholland Brothers deerskin dufﬂe bag, which features a separate shoe compartment and Italian-crafted water-resistant lining. $1,695 at Gene Hiller (Sausalito). 415.332.3636, genehiller.com by somer flaherty

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

This is not an offer to sell, nor a solicitation of an offer to buy, to residents of any state or province in which restrictions and other legal requirements have not been fulfilled. This advertisement is void where prohibited by law. All prices, plans, amenities, availability and improvements shown are subject to change without notice. Illustrations are artists’ depictions only, are not necessarily to scale and may differ from completed improvements, and scenes may include locations or activities not on or near the property. Improvements, facilities and programs are in formative stages, and there is no guarantee that they will be completed or developed. All pictures, photographs, and images are owned or licensed by Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. or its affiliates. Any use, reproduction or distribution of pictures, photographs, and images without written permission is expressly prohibited. Sotheby’s International Realty, Real Estate Broker. California Department of Real Estate, One Old Ranch Road, Carmel, California 93923. I

WARNING: THE CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF REAL ESTATE HAS NOT INSPECTED, EXAMINED OR QUALIFIED THIS OFFERING.

IT’S CALLED A VACATION HOME FOR A REASON. The eagerly awaited Retreat at Carmel Valley Ranch is the only hotel-style, secondhome opportunity in all of Carmel Valley. From our championship 18-hole golf course, designed by Peter Dye, to the 5-star meals prepared by our Zagat-rated chef, you’ll be pampered daily with world class resort services and amenities. It is the “little things” that we do you will appreciate most – like evening turndown service, gourmet in-room dining, twice-daily cleaning and linen care, specialty bath amenities and an on-call concierge to assist with any special requests or needs. Owners receive a complimentary Premier Club membership providing preferred access to tennis, ﬁtness and golf. And as an owner, take advantage of our optional rental program. Here, we make second-home living an experience like no other – and give you the time to enjoy the unbelievable lifestyle in our little corner of paradise.

Fully furnished, hotel residences now available and attractively priced from the $700’s MODEL SUITES NOW OPEN! Visit our Information Gallery at Carmel Valley Ranch, call us at 888-658-0888 or register at www.carmelvalleyranch.com to receive updated details.

FA S H I ON TRENDS

over-the-top additions to the fall wardrobe 4

The daily grind shouldn’t only include perfectly pressed suits or the ubiquitous jeans-and-tee combo. Try adding ﬂair to the usual attire with these latest accessories that are high on style.

1. Toasty Indulgence Sure, the shearling version at Orvis retails for $100, but if it’s in the budget, why not opt for this waterproof cashmere and marmot fur Alaskan hat. It’s the ultimate luxury in head-warming gear. $2,900 at Loro Piana (SF). 415.593.3303, loropiana.com 3

2. Texture Trumps All Dress up or dress down with Coach’s Austin Desert Boot—the suede finish allows for ultimate versatility. $258 at Coach (Corte Madera). 415.924.5046, coach.com

3. Sky-High Style Although this dazzling watch, which features a bounty of rubies and diamonds, retails for the same price as some second homes, it’s still OK to dream. $645,000 at select Chanel Fine Jewelry boutiques. 800.550.0005, chanel.com

4. Lost? Impress your buddies with this light5

weight sterling-silver navigational compass. $250 at Tiffany and Co. (SF). 415.781.7000, tiffany.com

5. On a Whim The Air Infinity Oxford from Cole Haan features Nike Air technology in the heel and front footbed for ultimate comfort on an impromptu hike. $165 at Patrick James (Mill Valley). 415.383.2174, patrickjames.com by somer flaherty

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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FA S H I O N

lifestyle Name Tzeira Sofer Home San Anselmo Occupation Entrepreneur Describe your personal style. Classic with a Founder and president

twist. The beauty of fashion is making some-

of skin-care product

thing your own and creating a personal style.

lines Pomega5 and t’Zerah, Sofer will

What are you wearing? A Victorian-style

support Breast Cancer

sleeveless bustier by Byron Lars and a 3-tier

Awareness Month by

organza taffeta miniskirt over leggings. The

donating a percentage

shoes are by Moschino. I love vintage jewelry,

of the online sales of

the bangle on my upper arm is a Victorian

Pomega5 Healing

handcrafted silver bracelet and the choker is

Cream to Search for

actually an ancient African piece.

the Cause.

Favorite designers? I adore the elegance and understatement of Chanel—the focus on the details of the seams, buttons, etc. For business wear I really like Alexander McQueen. It’s professional, but not traditional or conservative. For more of an everyday look, I can’t get enough of Moschino. I also ﬁnd some great Christian Lacroix pieces in France and Italy. Where do you shop in Marin? Kathleen Dughi was wonderful; I was always very impressed by her originality. For home shopping, I like Zaragoza in San Anselmo. When I’m shopping with my daughter, we often go to the junior department at Nordstrom. What is always in your bag/pockets? I always carry green ﬂower or jasmine tea and an a sample of some Pomega5 products as well as a t’Zerah cleansing bar because the scent is so nice—it makes me smile. I also usually have a Jane Iredale lip gloss, sunglasses and business cards. 50

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

P H OTO: BARBA RA R IE S

antioxidant supplement. And of course I have

What is your best cheapo secret? One of my favorite things to do is collect remnants at fabric stores. Recently I purchased bits of lightweight leather and tulle and made a gorgeous skirt for a fraction of what it would have cost to buy. What’s your fashion pet peeve? Fashion is often too commercial; therefore, people lack individuality. People need to spend time learning what looks good on them (not on a model) and develop their own style. What is your view of Marin style? I love Marin style because it simply is what it is. It focuses on being outdoors, active and casual. I don’t think the lifestyle here is Jean-Paul Gaultier, so the fashion shouldn’t be either. Where do you love to eat in Marin? Sabor of Spain in San Rafael has fantastic seafood, and they are able to bring some of the authentic culture of Spain to Marin. Insalata’s in San Anselmo has delicious clean, fresh Mediterranean food, the kind I grew up on. And the Left Bank in Larkspur has the best niçoise salad I’ve ever had. What was the last book you read and why? I’m reading two wonderful books: The Omnivore’s Dilemma: by Michael Pollan—it’s the book that I’ve been waiting for my whole life. I’m also enjoying Sastun: One Woman’s Apprenticeship with a Maya Healer. What was the last movie you saw? After the Wedding. The actors were fantastic and I was truly moved by the message: “no matter where you are, the substance of the journey is the same.” I also adore movies directed by Fellini or Kieslowski. If your life were a movie, what would be your theme song? The classic movie Elvira Madigan totally shaped my life, so I am moved and inspired by the music that resonated throughout the movie—Mozart’s Piano Concerto No. 21 in C-major. MARINMAGAZINE.COM

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

F Y I H E A LT H

The Facts About Breast Cancer in Marin County Why are there higher rates of breast cancer in Marin than in other parts of the United States? F or a five y ear period u p to 2 0 0 3 , b reast cancer rates in Marin were 1 7 percent higher than the rest of the nation, according to R ochel l e E reman,

BREAST CANCER AWARENESS

director of commu nity epidemiol ogy at the cou nty heal th department. Why Marin? A l thou gh there are a nu mb er of possib il ities, E reman points ou t that there are more women in Marin with k nown risk factors for b reast cancer su ch as u sing certain ty pes of hormone therapy , dail y al cohol consu mption and chil db earing patterns ( having fewer chil dren l ater in

ith the high incidence of b reast cancer in Marin C ou nty

and in honor of national B reast C ancer

l ife) . T his wou l d cau se Marin’ s rates to b e higher than other areas, b ecau se it wou l d pu t more women at an increased risk

A wareness Month we’ ve compil ed a l ist of statistics and

for b reast cancer. E reman say s these factors accou nt for mu ch of the rate difference seen in Marin b u t there is stil l u ncertainty if they accou nt for the entire ex cess rate. But there is good news! A ccording to the D epartment of H eal th and H u man Services, u pdated estimates show that mortal ity rates in Marin

facts from the N orthern C al ifornia C ancer C enter, the A merican C ancer Society and the D epartment of H eal th and H u man Services in Marin to shine a spotl ight on

and C al ifornia have decl ined in the past decade, meaning fewer women are dy ing of b reast cancer. “ I n 2 0 0 2 there was a l ot

and cl ear u p my ths ab ou t the disease. —

S. F .

of media attention su rrou nding hormone repl acement therapy ( H R T ) and the l ink to b reast cancer. W ith fewer women u sing H R T , we’ ve started to see b reast cancer rates coming down

WHAT IS THE CHANCE YOU WILL BE

su b stantial l y , ” say s T ina C l ark e, N orthern C al ifornia C ancer

DIAGNOSED WITH BREAST CANCER?

C enter research scientist and Stanford U niversity consu l ting

A ccording to the N ational C ancer I nstitu te, ab ou t 1 in 8 women

assistant professor. How many women in Marin are diag-

( 1 3 . 2 percent) wil l b e diagnosed with b reast cancer du ring their

nosed? A ccording to the most recent data from the N orthern

l ifetime. B y age at diagnosis, this averages to:

C al ifornia C ancer C enter, for the period b etween 2 0 0 0 and

From age 30 through age 39: 1 in 229

2 0 0 4 , 1,248 women were diagnosed with invasive b reast cancer, meaning the tu mor had started to invade the su rrou nding

From age 40 through age 49: 1 in 68

tissu e. 261 women were diagnosed with noninvasive b reast

From age 50 through age 59: 1 in 37

cancer, meaning tu mor cel l s were detected b u t had not spread.

From age 60 through age 69: 1 in 26

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Known Risk Factors for Breast Cancer A ccording to the A merican C ancer Society and its 2 0 0 5 -2 0 0 6 F acts and F igu res R eport: UNCONTROLLABLE FACTORS GENDER Simpl y b eing a woman is the main risk for b reast cancer. W hil e men can al so get the disease, it is ab ou t 1 0 0 times more common in women.

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AGE R isk of b reast cancer increases as a woman gets ol der. MENSTRUAL PERIODS W omen who b egan having periods earl y ( b efore 1 2 y ears of age) or who went throu gh menopau se after the age of 5 5 have a sl ightl y increased risk of b reast cancer. RACE C au casian women are more l ik el y to devel op b reast cancer than any other race ( 1 4 1 per 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 ) , A fricanA merican women are nex t ( 1 1 9 per 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 ) , fol l owed b y A sian and P acific I sl ander women ( 9 7 per 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 ) , H ispanic women ( 9 0 per 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 ) and then A merican I ndian and A l ask an N ative women ( 5 5 per 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 ) . FAMILY HISTORY B reast cancer risk is higher among women whose cl ose b l ood rel atives have this disease. LIFESTYLE CHOICES DIET G aining weight after age 1 8 , specifical l y after menopau se, increases a woman’ s risk of b reast cancer after menopau se, whereas l osing weight after menopau se can redu ce the risk . CHILDBIRTH H aving a first chil d after the age of 3 5 and having fewer or no chil dren increases y ou r risk .

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BREASTFEEDING N ot b reastfeeding y ou r b ab y has b een shown to increase y ou r risk of b reast cancer. ALCOHOL T he more y ou drink , the higher y ou r risk for b reast cancer.

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MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

F Y I CAUS E S

DESIGN FOR MARIN

Showcase home provides win-win for designers and Marin nonprofits BY SAMANTHA BRONSON

ander through the sprawling San

director. “Given the [economic] climate and

Rafael house on display for the

split among three organizations selected to be

how hard it is to receive funding for something

Marin Designers Showcase and

the auxiliary’s “Heart Tug” recipients.

you’re already doing and to not have to come

Marin nonprofits. The remaining 15 percent is

you’ll be doing more than observing the latest

By giving a portion of the proceeds directly

up with a new fundraising idea, it’s a great op-

home design trends. You’ll also be supporting

to nonprofits, the auxiliary can recognize the

portunity for the center and these women to

local nonprofits.

work of dedicated organizations, says Alma

help these organizations.”

Sponsored by the Auxiliary of the Center for Volunteer and Nonprofit Leadership, the an-

O’Malley, president of the group. Grants are typically about $5,000.

This year’s Heart Tug recipients are the Helen Vine Detox Center, Marin Services for

nual showcase typically nets about $200,000,

“The majority of the organizations tend to

Women and the Ritter Center. The Helen Vine

of which 85 percent goes to the center to sup-

be smaller ones, so a $5,000 gift goes a long

center provides a residential setting to help

port its role as a resource for more than 1,000

way,” says Linda Davis, the center’s executive

adults detoxify from alcohol or drugs and will

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

P H OTO: TIM P ORTER

From left: Jan Andersen, Alma O’Malley, Kathy van Fleet

“

We’d like to make sure

the money we do give is used [to beneﬁt the people these organizations serve] rather than being used for

”

overhead and salaries.

— A LM A O ’M ALLE Y use the money to buy 18 new mattresses and

Tiburon’s Exclusive Home for:

bedding. Marin Services for Women, a chemical dependency recovery organization, will

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expand its perinatal and child development

Billy Blues

programs. The Ritter Center, which runs programs for the working poor, will use the funds for such core services as an emergency food pantry and medical care.

Three Dots Red Engine Isda & Co

Choosing grant recipients is a long process

Yansi Fugel

that begins each January, when the auxilia-

Mac & Jac

ry’s 70-or-so active members review 13 differ-

Kensie

ent nonprofit service categories, ranging from animal welfare to women’s services. While members do take recent categories of grant re-

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cipients into account, that doesn’t preclude se-

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lecting nonprofits in the same category again.

Pete

There are plenty of organizations within each grouping that could benefit from the money,

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O’Malley points out. After three general categories are chosen, the center encourages organizations involved in those causes to submit grant applications. As many as 90 groups apply, and a committee of auxiliary members reviews their cases, considering such criteria as size of a nonprofit’s budget and the reach of the program the grant would support. “We’d like to make sure the money we do give is used [to benefit the people these organizations serve] rather than being used for overhead and salaries,” says O’Malley. One recent exception: in 2006, Bridge the Gap Tutoring in Marin City offset the cost of hiring a second paid staff member thanks to auxiliary grant funds. In that case, awarding money for a salary made sense because students directly

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MARIN OCTOBER 2007

Indeed, having a staff member focused solely on advocating for students has helped reenergiz e the tutoring program, cofounder and codirector Bob Hunter says, and will boost student confidence and possibly parental involvement as a result. “( The position) is a big step for us and really a critical step in serving the community,” he adds. At the St. Vincent de Paul Society of Marin, another 2006 recipient, Heart Tug funds went toward much-needed food. The group’s San Rafael dining room, which serves about 130,000 free meals a year, receives about $ 1 million worth of donated food, but that doesn’t

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It gives us that security

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Showcase, the more funds can be raised for

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O ’Malley says, “you can come and enjoy your-

The more people who visit the Designers local nonprofits and the people they serve. As self and know you’re giving back to the com-

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MARIN OCTOBER 2007

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F Y I B O O KS

What to Read According to Courtney Actress Courtney Thorne-Smith takes on the Hollywood life in her new novel Outside In BY SAMANTHA BERRY

our tney Thor ne-Smith is best known f or playing Allison on Melrose Place and Georgia on Ally McBeal, but anyone who attended Tam High in the mid-eight-

ies remembers her as the girl who made it. Plucked from a general casting call and plopped into her first movie, Lucas, at age 17, she became our local girl makes good, an embodiment of the somedayI’ll-be-a-famous-actress fantasy held by so many high school girls. 58

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

five senses O f course, as we all know, such fantasies of stardom tend to ignore the more difficult asmore than two decades in front of the camera, Courtney Thorne-Smith has written Outside In, a novel that helps disabuse us of the idea that getting it all makes you happy.

image: Ester Segarra

pects of a life in the spotlight. And so, after

Her main character, Kate Keyes-Morgan, is living the Hollywood dream. She has a starring role on a popular nighttime drama; she’s married to a successful and handsome man; and at 30, she’s back from a weight-related career slide documented relentlessly in the tabloids. But the dream is not all it seems to be.

“I thought about writing an autobiography but it felt so limited.. . so I thought I could write about someone who is still struggling, whose whole world is created for her.”

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with the goal of reaching the coveted siz e z ero. Thorne-Smith, who has been public with her eating disorder and body issues and credits her extremely close-knit family and group of girlfriends with providing her the support she needs to stay on track in that regard, turned to fiction as a means of expressing what this struggle is like. “I thought about writing an autobiography but it felt so limited— therapy and nutritionists don’t make a good story— so I thought I could write about someone who is still struggling,

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whose whole world is created for her. Kate, at 30, is much younger than I was at that age. She starts out with no perspective on reality.” The novel is a breez y guilty pleasure, peopled with love-to-hate-them actresses throwing fits in their trailers, along with the down-toearth makeup artist Paige ( “just heavy enough

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MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

to be nonthreatening to women, but fit enough to be attractive to men”) , and Hamilton, who

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may be the best-looking but most controlling husband character ever created. Outside In is a peek into the same world that draws us into Us Weekly and E! television, but Thorne-Smith has enough distance from Hollywood craz iness to render it with sensitivity and insight: “Kate loved that part of being an actor,” she writes, “being surrounded by imaginative, interesting people all working in tandem to piece together an entire world out of the combined energy of their collective pain, wisdom and joy. The creative process was magical, spiritual. When had she made the shift from working to feed her soul to working for a paycheck, for the approval of the capricious press, for the validation of the masses? ” Thorne-Smith worked on Outside In in the mornings, before she had to be on the According to Jim set each day ( she has played J im Belushi’s wife on the show for seven seasons) . “Sitcom work is so great because it’s like a 10-to-4 job,” she says from her home in Los

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OCTOBER 2007

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MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Angeles. “There are some long days, but it really allows you to have a life.” And having a life is what Thorne-Smith values most. “The reason I have been able to stay sane is that I’ve always had a full life,” she says. “I have a really tight group of girlfriends. I cook almost every day. I knit. I read a lot. I do a lot of crafts.” She is also expecting her first child in January. “I keep saying I hope I have a girl or a really crafty boy,” she says with a laugh. Courtney Thorne-Smith will be reading and signing Outside In on Monday, September 24, at Book Passage at 7 p.m. and at Stacey’s in San Francisco on Tuesday, September 25, at 12:30 p.m.

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Out Stealing Horses by Per Petterson (Graywolf, $22) “It’s a deceptively quiet novel about a man returning to the rural area in Norway where he spent summers as a child. The chapters flip-flop between the present and the past and it’s just absolutely beautiful—but not in a sleepy, writerly way. There is plot here.”

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OCTOBER 2007

F Y I PEO P LE

Nonviolent Vision Judy Kimmel wants Washington to give Peace a chance BY BONNIE MONTE funding and has little executive power, Kimmel says. “A Cabinet department would be a whole different matter. It would have a secretary who would be at the president’s table.” Among other things, the Department of Peace would oversee programs to reduce family violence, teach mediation to school kids, work to dismantle gangs and rehabilitate the prison population—a daunting agenda, but one proponents say would greatly improve our national quality of life and yield a hefty financial payoff. Kimmel speaks with quiet passion on the idea, though her words are often met with eyerolling by skeptics who view a Peace Department as a holdover from the hippie days. When she does make a convert, it’s when she talks numbers. Addressing conflict before it occurs is far cheaper than responding to its aftermath, Kimmel attests: a dollar spent on violence prevention saves 10 spent on law enforcement and incarceration, and a World Health Organization report has estimated the economic toll of violence in the United States at $300 billion a year. “That’s just domestically,” she adds. “That’s not udy Addicott Kimmel wants peace

hopeful Rep. Dennis Kucinich of Ohio, would

Internationally, a Department of Peace

to have a seat at the table—the U.S.

establish a Department of Peace whose role

would advise the president and the secre-

Cabinet table. As radical as that may

is to focus on domestic and international vio-

taries of Defense and State on root causes

lence prevention.

of violence and practical ways to counter it

sound for a government that spends more than $400 billion a year on a Defense Department

Kimmel, a Mill Valley business consultant

before it becomes full blown. “We don’t want

whose primary role is preparing for war, the

who has worked for a slew of nonprofits and

to abolish the Department of Defense or the

idea of a Department of Peace isn’t a new

participated in the peace movement for de-

military,” Kimmel says. “We want to comple-

one. It’s been kicking around since George

cades, is pushing hard for passage of the bill

ment it by offering solutions.” Prior to the

Washington’s administration and, in fact, in

through her organization, the 45,000-member

Iraq war, she points out, two thirds of U.S.

the last century alone Congress considered 83

Peace Alliance, of which she is development

military missions were peace-keeping in na-

bills on the matter, but rejected them all.

coordinator.

ture. Yet less than 1 percent of today’s mili-

Now, an 84th bill is going before the House.

Even though there is already a U.S. Institute

HR 808, sponsored by Democratic presidential

of Peace think tank, it receives only minuscule

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

tary budget goes toward training in the art of promoting peace.

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

P H OTO: TIM P ORTER

counting the cost of war.”

A Cabinet department “would be a whole different matter. It would have a secretary who would be at the

”

president’s table.

“There’s a tremendous body of research to draw on in the area of violence prevention, and it’s not getting much government attention,” she insists. Conversely, whereas 30 years ago only one U.S. university offered a major in conflict resolution, today more

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than 300 do. All that expertise could be tapped via another part of the Kucinich bill, establishment of a Peace Academy. Kimmel likens it to a military academy, an institution where young

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adults could go into a period of service, perhaps for the State Department or a nationwide network of programs like AmeriCorps. Imagine how different the outcome might have been in Iraq, she speculates, had such know-how been part of the arsenal of skills among our political leaders. “The military was ill prepared for the endgame,” she says. “Trained peacekeepers could have made a difference. Maybe all the things that went wrong wouldn’t have gone wrong.” Kimmel is working to get a similar bill introduced in the Senate. Plenty of senators are paying attention, thanks to the Peace Alliance’s savvy. “Because we’re organized by congressional districts, we can be very effective at the national level,” says Kimmel. “There are 435 districts and we have teams in 300 of them. The peace movement has grown up.” So far, 20 cities have endorsed the Department of Peace idea, including San Francisco, Oakland and San Jose. “People are realizing that our country is in trouble,” Kimmel says. The Peace Alliance website (thepeacealliance.org) gets twice the traffic it did a year ago, she points out. “The last election was a mandate for change. People in

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MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

F Y I BUSINESS

CLOSE TO HOME Fractional ownership opportunities within a 90-mile radius

BY M .L. LATHAN

ied-à-terre, weekend getaway… are these on your wish list? Consider fractional ownership. According to Jamie Cheng of the Helium Report in San Francisco, more and more suburbanites (ouch) are purchasing fractional properties within 90 miles of home. Besides publishing an independent consumer guide to fractional ownership, the Helium Report educates consumers via daily industry news and property descriptions on its website. “There is an interesting migrating trend in fractional owners from mountain, beach

and golf properties to urban destinations such as San Francisco,” says Cheng. “We are seeing a lot of empty-nesters looking for an upscale experience without the hassle of maintaining a property themselves.” While traditional time shares—the

in most cases more luxurious amentities; they are also substantially more expensive. “This price discrepancy does not hinder most fractional buyers,” explains Cheng, “since two thirds pay cash.” While the long-term value of an interest in a fractional property is still unproven, Cheng advises prospective buyers to look at it as a lifestyle choice, not necessarily a way to make a buck. Interested? Here are a few properties within that magic 90-mile radius.

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

P H OTO: TIM P ORTER

original concept of shared ownership—work for many people, fractionals offer more flexibility as far as travel dates, and

restaurants, museums and downtown shop-

SAN FRANCISCO

ping. Units one-, two- and three-bedroom units all feature a dining room designed for enter-

Fairmont Heritage Place Ghirardelli Square

taining and a fully equipped gourmet kitchen.

Location Ghirardelli Square is located at 900

ment center and Wi-Fi. Number of units 44

Living space includes state-of-the-art entertain-

North Point Street between Beach and Larkin

club residences. Percent of ownership One-

Street. It is near the west end of Fisherman’s

twelfth interest. Starting price $232,000.

Wharf, two blocks east of Van Ness Avenue and

Annual fees between $10,500 and $12,500.

one block west of the Cable Car turnaround at

Property taxes Approximately 1 percent of

Beach and Hyde Streets. Known as the go-to

purchase price. Ownership benefits Twice-

spot for San Francisco snow globes and I♥SF

daily housekeeping, valet-attended garage

Tee shirts, the plaza is being renovated to replace

parking, 24-hour concierge, lounge and ex-

the tourist shops and national chains with inde-

ecutive boardroom. Does unused time go

pendently owned local businesses much like the

into a rental pool? No. Does unused time

transformation at the Ferry Building. Units Most

accrue? No. Reciprocity Yes, deeded time

of the one-, two- and three-bedroom homes of-

can be used at any Ritz-Carlton Club, such as,

fer intimate terraces with views of the bay.

Aspen, Kapalua Bay and Lake Tahoe. Members

Inside, they are designed with classic red-brick

have reciprocal benefits to other RCC Clubs.

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walls and timber beams, while the kitchens offer state-of-the-art appliances, including wine refrigerators and espresso machines. Step outside to enjoy access to private clubrooms and fire pits for gathering with friends and family. Number of units 54 residences. Percent of ownership One-tenth ownership offers five weeks or 35 days. Starting price $250,000 (two-bedroom units). Annual fees Start at $10,700 (two-bedroom units). Property taxes Approximately 1

Get Multiple Homes Organized

percent of purchase price. Ownership bene-

You’ve got the second home in

fits A 24-hour concierge that can arrange servic-

Hawaii, the fractional in Napa and a

es including personal shoppers, housekeeping,

time share in Mexico—now it’s time to

valet service, childcare and private chefs. Does

keep track with the new software pro-

unused time go into rental pool? Yes, own-

gram Home Concierge. Set a remind-

ers may put up to two weeks of their ownership

er to stock the kitchen in the main

interest into the rental program. Does unused

house, pay insurance on the second,

time accrue? No. Reciprocity Yes, for any

HOA dues on the condo, and prepare

other Fairmont Heritage Place property such as

for guests coming next month—all

Acapulco, Franz Klammer Lodge in Telluride,

from your computer, anywhere in the

and planned Fairmont Heritage Place homes in

world. Managing one house can be

Idaho’s Tamarack Resort, Turks & Caicos, and

stressful; managing two or more can

Zimbali, South Africa or any property in more

be exhausting. The program allows

than 50 of the Fairmont Hotel & Resorts’ portfo-

home owners to fully control all prop-

lio, subject to availability.

erties with interactive calendars, detailed address books, checklists and

The Ritz-Carlton Club, SF

an information storage center for im-

Location The renovated 1890s original

portant documents. Subscriptions are

Chronicle Building at 690 Market Street is cen-

$150 a year, bcbtechnologies.com

trally located, walking distance from theaters,

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MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

WINE COUNTRY The Lodges at Calistoga Ranch Location Situated on 157 wooded acres and set around spring-fed Lake Lommel, the prop-

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spring-fed bathhouse. Units E ach two-bed-

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swimming pool, a wine cave and thermal room lodge offers more than 2,500 square feet of indoor-outdoor living space, including a master suite with bath that opens to an outdoor shower and garden and an expansive kitchen with wine storage. At the heart of each unit is an outdoor living room, complete with a fireplace. Number of units Currently 15 lodges are available; after Phase III is completed in summer 2008 there will be 27. Percent of ownership O ne tenth, three full weeks or 21 days. Starting price $ 435,000. Annual fees

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$ 12,770. Property taxes Included in annual fees. Ownership benefits O wners have complete access to everything at Calistoga Ranch including world-class spa, fitness center and comprehensive wellness program. They also get to participate in year-round private events hosted by member winemakers. Does unused time go into a rental pool? No, but friends and family can use the lodge even if owner is not present. Does unused vacation time accrue? No. Reciprocity Yes, at the E speranz a Resort in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico ( another Auberge Resort) . O wners also get a 10 percent discount at Auberge du Soleil in Napa Valley, at Solage Calistoga and at the Inn at Palmetto Bluff in Bluffton, South Carolina.

The Orchard at Carneros Inn Location Carneros is located on Highway 37 between Napa and Sonoma. The property in-

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cludes an infinity-edge pool that overlooks the vineyards, lap pool with cabanas, J acuz z i, children’s pool, 3,000-square-foot fitness center, yoga/ pilates studio and world-class spa with lavish treatment rooms. Units E ach two-bedroom, 1,700-square-foot detached residence features indoor and outdoor living spaces, including modern kitchens with stainless-steel

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OCTOBER 2007

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appliances, bathrooms with soaking tubs, private outdoor spa tubs, large-screen flat-panel televisions, high-speed Internet access, DVD/ CD players, Frette linens, outdoor showers, private decks, courtyards and indoor fireplaces. Number of units 17 villas. Percent of ownership O ne-tenth interest, 21 days, guaranteed seven nights within each season. Starting price $ 300,000. Annual fees $ 8,100. Property taxes 1 percent of purchase price. Ownership benefits O wnership also includes personal concierge service, available to make arrangements prior to arrival and during stay for dining reservations, tee-times, personal chefs, pre-arrival grocery shopping, spa appointments and babysitting. Does unused time go into a rental pool? O wners may rent out their three-week slots. The O rchard cottages are likely to fetch $ 1,200 to $ 1,800 a night, which goes back to the owner. Does unused time accrue? No. Reciprocity None yet, but there are options planned for the future.

Mayacama Residence Club Location O n 650 acres in the heart of the wine country, with easy access to Sonoma, Napa and Alexander Valley attractions, Mayacama also boasts a world-class golf course, ranked 66 by Golf Digest. Units E ach Mediterranean inspired three-bedroom, 3.5-bathroom villa has plenty of space for indoor/ outdoor entertaining and relaxing, including an outdoor kitchen. Decks off every room provide sweeping views of the golf course and tranquil Sonoma scenery. Number of units Three villas are completed, construction started on six is due to finish in 2008; final goal is 12 to 16. Percent of ownership O ne fifth interest, 70 nights a year. Starting price $ 650,000 with club membership. Annual fees $ 16,664. Property taxes Approximately 1.5 percent of purchase price. Ownership benefits 24-hour concierge, J ack Nicklaus– designed golf course, tennis, restaurant, clubhouse and spa. Does unused time go into a rental pool? No. Does unused time accrue? No. Reciprocity None, currently.

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OCTOBER 2007

F Y I EVENTS

BIONEERS 2007

hen Santa Fe–based husband-

Civic Center October 19 to 21, arriving not in

Green Growth Alliance”). There will be imag-

and-wife social entrepreneurs

Conestoga wagons but more likely in vehicles

ineering of the loftiest kind (“Thinking Like

Kenny Ausubel and Nina Simons

Cathedral Builders”) and events that seem lift-

formed their environmental advocacy organiza-

The annual event is part environmental trade

ed from Farmer’s Almanac: at a Saturday night

tion in 1990, they coined the term Bioneers—

show, part earth mother revival meeting and

seed exchange, participants can “exchange ge-

a neologistic meld of “biological pioneer”—as

part homecoming of the progressive tribe.

netic materials with neighbors,” a phrase that

its name.

Panel discussions will range from the scientific

could be interpreted differently by less high-

Like the pioneers of yore, Bioneers and its

(“Social and Regenerative Forestry”) to the fem-

minded thinkers. Of course, as with any trade

adherents will once again be coming west, for

inist (“Girls Gone Mild? Reclaiming Feminism’s

show there is also a celebratory bash, in this

the three-day Bioneers conference at the Marin

Radical Edge”) to the political (“Toward a

case a drumming and dance party following

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

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P H OTO C OURTESY OF BIONEERS

The tribe gathers in Marin BY ROSS THOMAS

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Marin has “the most conscious and sophisticated socially responsible thinkers living here,” according to cofounder Ausubel. “It’s a facility is perfect.” the seed exchange ( check your genetic material at the door) . Before and after the drumming, the conference addresses global warming, environmental racism, food safety and other issues now becoming increasingly mainstream. Attendance at the annual conference keeps growing, and this year more than 3,000 people are expected

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fertile place to be and the

to pay entrance fees ranging from $ 76 a day to more than $ 400 for the whole shebang; another 10,000 are expected to listen in from satellite locations. Major speakers from Marin include J ay Harman, CE O

of Pax Scientific, a San Rafael

firm specializ ing in energy-efficient engineering, and Charlotte Brody, head of the Bolinasbased environmental health organiz ation Commonweal. The Bioneers conference is not held in Marin by accident; it moved here in 1998 after a stint in San Francisco. Marin has “the most conscious and sophisticated socially responsible thinkers living here,” according to cofounder Ausubel. “It’s a fertile place to be and the facility is perfect.” The conference is a learning opportunity for local residents, adds county supervisor Charles McGlashan. “This county is the inheri-

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Bioneers is an essential asset to us.” Details at bioneers.org/conference.

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MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

F Y I COM MUNI T Y

Headlands Institute

WHERE SCIENCE IS STRICTLY KIDS’ STUFF BY TIM PORTER

WHEN THE SUMMER FOG IS SO THICK THAT THE BRIGHTEST thing on Rodeo Beach is the goofy yellow grin on a SpongeBob SquarePants backpack, Sam Drucker knows it’s time for the deer joke. “What,” asks Drucker, speaking to the dozen kids in his keep for the day, “do you call a deer with no eyes?” No answer. “No idea-rrr,” replies Drucker, drawling out those R’s. Rim shot. And the Headlands Institute kicks off another day of teaching natural science to kids by any means necessary. If it takes cornball jokes to get them off the Game Boy and onto the beach, then bring on the corn. Fortunately for the kids, Drucker is a better marine biologist than he is a comedian because, all joking aside, science is serious stuff at Headlands. For 30 years Headlands, a nonprofit organization located in a nondescript former barand a mammal, and doing so in a setting that is the envy of science teachers everywhere: the Marin Headlands. The organization is part of the tripartite Yosemite National Institutes, which has similar programs in Yosemite and Olympic parks. The fifth- and sixth-graders on Rodeo Beach this morning are just a few of the 10,000 or so local elementary and high-school students who participate in a Headlands event each

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

P H OTO: TIM P ORTER

racks at Fort Cronkhite, has been teaching young people the difference between a mollusk

year, some coming for weeklong sessions that focus on the environment, others for leadership mentoring, and some, like this group, for

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a summer day program called Coastal Camp. During their day, the Coastal Camp kids

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hunted for pebbles of carnelian ( a russet-colored semiprecious stone hidden amidst the

Tiburon

sand on Rodeo Beach) , examined the rotting

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castles, engaged in a kelp war and constructed an elaborate dam on South Rodeo Beach that proved no more effective against the flow of a tidal creek than the levees in New O rleans were against Katrina— thus providing valuable lessons in both engineering and humans’ relationship with the natural world. Then it was time for lunch. Amid it all, Drucker acted as science teacher, referee, cheerleader, psychologist and outdoor fashion consultant ( for a girl who showed up to hike over dune and dale wearing flimsy flats) .

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Drucker— and the more than 20 similar educators who work at Headlands full time— are like “Mr. Rogers with a pair of hiking boots,” says Aaron Rich, the organiz ation’s marketing director. Making science fun is “really the key to the learning out here,” says Rich. “Looking for bugs in a pond is really exciting to kids. Less and less these days, kids have a chance to just be out in the natural world and explore and this is an opportunity for them to do it in a structured, safe way. “We bring kids out from around the Bay Area who have never seen the ocean before,” he says. “For a lot of students, no matter where they’re from, it’s such a new experience just being able to sit on the ground on the first day is a big deal.” Sitting on the ground— yeah, that is a good thing when you’re kid. Close your eyes. Picture it. The ground, the night sky, the blaz ing campfire. The voice of your camp counselor, saying: “Have you heard the one about the noeyed, no-legged deer? ” Still no idea-rrr! More information about Headlands Institute at yni.org/hi.

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

F Y I AUTO

Resident Car Guy Tiburon’s Bruce Ross is a hands-on enthusiast

P H OTO: TIM P ORTER

BY BRIAN DOUGLAS

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

ome guys slow down when they get older. Bruce Ross isn’t one of them. At 72,

the retired architect, former Tiburon mayor and, well, yes, absolute car nut seems to be going faster and faster—especially if he’s behind the wheel of his classic Porsche racer. Ironically, for a man whose idea of a leisurely weekend drive is a high-speed bumper-to-bumper chase around a track with a pack of sports cars just like his, Ross may be best known in the automotive world for creating a popular event where the cars mostly just sit there. Ross and fellow Tiburon auto buff Tom O’Neill are the founders of the annual Tiburon Classic Car Show, which celebrated its fifth year in June. Eighty-five vintage cars lined up in front of Shoreline Park on Paradise Drive, delighting a large crowd of locals as well as tourists who had taken the ferry ride over from San Francisco.

“I’m an artist and an architect so I have some mechanical skills, but they’re not great. I was better at bodywork.” The event raised a little bit of money ($750) for the Belvedere/Tiburon Library and helped out the local Rotary Club, which cosponsored the show, but bringing all those cars and their owners together was as much about creating community as it was about charity— and that’s something Ross has been involved in even longer than he’s been wild about cars. Ross’ community connections are many: president of the Tiburon Advisory Council, chairman of the Harbor and Lagoon Plan committee, member of the Planning Commission and City Council, town mayor in 1977 and 1978. Out of office, he kept his civic hand in, helping establish Tiburon’s new Town Hall,

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new police station, Zelinsky Park and the Hilarita housing development. During it all, Ross raised a family and worked—as a partner in his San Francisco architectural firm, Backen, Arrigoni & Ross. Not surprisingly, considering that overachiever might be a reasonable adjective to use about now, he made such significant design-, education- and public-service-related contributions to the field of architecture that in 1995 the American Institute of Architects inducted him into the College of Fellows. Locally, the Tiburon

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Peninsula Chamber of Commerce named him Citizen of the Year for 2000-01.

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He spent his high school years in Portland,

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Oregon, “covered in grease,” he recalls, most of it from old Fords he was customizing. He took more to designing cars’ exteriors than to repairing the interiors, though: “I’m an artist and an architect so I have some mechanical skills, but they’re not great,” he says. “I was better at bodywork.” After high school he went into the air force and, during basic training, saw a draftsman working at a table. How can I get a job like that? Ross asked. He took the required test, passed and spent his four-year stretch in the service as an architectural draftsman. Back in civilian life, Ross enrolled at the University of Oregon to study architecture. By then he was already married and he and his wife, Sylvia, had three young children. School was a challenge, but Ross persisted, graduated and eventually founded Backen, Arrigoni & Ross, whose local projects include the San Rafael Corporate Center and numerous facilities at George Lucas’s Skywalker Ranch.

Porsche passion College study also left Ross with something else—a love for the classic lines of the early

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Porsche sports cars, especially the 356 models. “That car is an unbelievable piece of sculpture,” he says. Since young architects with families don’t spend their money on vintage Porsches, Ross had to wait until his career was well estab-

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lished to indulge his passion for the German sports car. He was in his mid-50s in 1991 when he bought an ivory-white 1964 Porsche 356 coupe for $11,000. He enjoyed conquering the Porsche’s rear-engine driving challenges and soon was smitten with the way the little coupe handled Marin’s curving roads. The roadster provided weekend amuse-

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ment, but soon Ross also discovered that Don Sandy, a colleague in another architectural firm, raced vintage Porsches. Ross volunteered

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mentor. After five years in the pit, Ross decided he was ready for a better view of the track, from behind the wheel. With the encouragement of another friend and racer, San Rafael dentist Gary Boreo, Ross took the plunge. He got his hands on a 1962

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Porsche 356 coupe that had body damage and no engine. It made a nice match for the Super 90 engine Ross had previously bought. He embarked on a yearlong restoration project. While his new racer was coming together, Ross enrolled in the Bondurant Racing School at what was then Sears Point Raceway in Sonoma. He did further training at a Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) school so that by the time his car was ready to join the scrimmage on the track, he was, too. These days Ross races eight times a year, usually finishing in the top third. His Porsche conforms to 1962 SCCA rules and he’s proud

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that it is an honest, historically accurate entrant. The authenticity also keeps the add-ons in check so his racing budget doesn’t go spiraling out of control.

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MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

C O N V E R S AT I O N

SUPERVISOR CHARLES MCGLASHAN

Marin’s “green supervisor” talks about the Countywide Plan, environmentalists and Marin in 2032 BY JIM WOOD

Marin County was a client.” The situation

ing Mill Valley, Tiburon, Belvedere, Sausalito

tled “Getting into Politics and Why I

prompted McGlashan to think, “How cool is

and the unincorporated communities of Marin

Enjoy It,” Marin County Supervisor

this—a county involved with the notion of

City, Tamalpais Valley, and Strawberry.

Charles McGlashan will probably be

sustainability?”

At 46, McGlashan is the youngest of

the playwright. The guy loves what he

Thus inspired, in 2001 he volunteered for

Marin’s five supervisors. Born in the South Bay

does. “This job is a joy,” he exudes after anoth-

Marin’s Economic Development Commission

city of Hillsborough, he was raised in Santa

er ten-hour day. “It’s an absolute joy.”

and was eventually appointed to fill a vacancy

Barbara, graduated from Yale and received

How did McGlashan come to such a call-

on the Marin Municipal Water District’s board

an MBA from Stanford (both with honors).

ing? Simply put, he worked his way into

in 2003. “That got me started,” he acknowl-

After stints on Wall Street and in Silicon Valley,

it. “In the late ’90s, I cofounded Natural

edged in a recent interview. Then in 2004, in

McGlashan moved to Tiburon in 1991 because

Strategies, an 11-person environmental con-

a hotly contested race, he was elected to the

it was “a place where I could go all weekend

sulting firm in San Rafael,” he explains, “and

Marin County Board of Supervisors represent-

without getting in my car.” The supervisor and

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

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PHOTO: TIM PORTER

f there’s ever a Broadway musical ti-

wife Carol, his political confidante and advis-

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er, now live in Mill Valley. “Along the way, I’ve fortunately enjoyed considerable travel,” he adds, including weeks of community service in Tibet, a Rotary Fellowship in India and extend-

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ed business trips to Braz il, Chile, Thailand and Finland and throughout E urope. “I love traveling,” he admits, “especially to Italy.” Yet forays to foreign destinations doesn’t appear likely in McGlashan’s immediate future. In addition to being a full-time supervisor ( annual salary: $ 94,000) , the Marin mountain-biking enthusiast is currently vice chair of the Sonoma Marin Area Rail Transit Authority ( SMART) , as well as a board member of the Golden Gate Bridge Transportation District, the Bay Conservation and Development Commission, LAFCO

and TAM, the Transportation Authority

of Marin. In 2008, McGlashan is slated to be chairman of both SMART and Marin County’s Board of Supervisors. “Plus, I’ll be up for reelection,” he says with a smile belonging in a cosmetic dentistry ad. “Which means there

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won’t be much time for mountain-biking.” For starters, here is a two-part question: What do you see as the greatest threat to Marin’s 25-year future? Then, putting on rose-colored glasses, describe the Marin you’d like to see 25 years from now. Between now and, say, 2025, Marin’s greatest threat is the continuing decline in our quality of life caused by the single-occupancy automobile. It’s in our way every time we turn around. If we want to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and make countywide progress by building affordable housing, we’ve got to get cars off the road. It’s a huge job, but we need to out-E urope the E uropeans with respect to transit. Widening freeways is a waste of money because they just fill up with more cars. Fast-moving freeways are a motivator

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least cost-effective use of money imaginable. It costs $ 40 million a mile to widen a freeway, $ 4 million a mile for trains, and $ 400,000 a mile for a bike path. Sure, more cars use a freeway, but locally more people would use a bike and walking path.

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As for the Marin of 2032, I would be thrilled

affordable—and this would protect consider-

if we had trolleys running from downtown Mill

able upland habitat. I know they want at least

Valley to Sausalito, another one going to Tiburon,

350 homes, but that isn’t going to fly. I recog-

one going down Ross Valley and one connecting

nize building 221 homes means building up

Novato with San Rafael. Sure, it’s a repeat of the

several stories, but the building footprint exists

“owl-eye” trains of almost a century ago, only in-

behind a knoll; therefore it won’t be seen from

stead of electrification, it would be biodiesel or

the 101 Freeway. If, using senior housing, St.

hydrogen powered. Let’s see, I’ll be 71 and my

Vincent’s/Silveira could increase those numbers

fantasy is I would call a up jitney to take me to

without increasing traffic counts, I am willing

a trolley on Miller Avenue, which would deliver

to listen; so the Countywide Plan should allow

me to the freeway where I’d take a high-speed

that substitution and the planning commission

bus to Marin’s Civic Center. I’d be at work with-

allows that already. I think we’re very close on

out ever having to touch a car. And that would

this issue now.

be on a day when I chose not to ride my bike to work. My fantasy is, for the most part, a non-car future. As for Marin’s cultural, social and entertainment future, my dream is with Marin’s Civic Center’s Renaissance Partnership. Before 25 years, I hope to see a Civic Center campus with a freestanding first-class library; a top-caliber art gallery; possibly a history museum; and updated exhibition halls and facilities for an even more vibrant farmers’ market—all of it in sync with the original Frank Lloyd Wright vision. As for Marin’s immediate future, update us on the following: Marin’s $25 million federal pilot grant for getting people out of their cars and onto bicycles and into walking?

Marin General Hospital? We face an enor-

“

I recently criticized single-use plastic water bottles at a supervisors meeting, and within days I was told the practice would eventually stop as far as Marin County Civic Center is concerned. For me, that’s very exciting.

”

First the bad news: the $25 million is now $20 million due to federal restrictions and regula-

mous problem here. Business interests will continue to skim off the profitable lines, leaving low-income services dependent on a shaky organization. Meanwhile, the Health Care Services Board continues to fight. We’re monitoring this situation closely, but long term we need to invent a new way of subsidizing lowincome care in California. College of Marin? The COM board seems to have a wonderful plan with excellent green building components and backed by adequate funds. But they need to establish credibility with their capital plan. It’s been almost three years now and a clear vision forward is still needed. Of course, nothing in my shop moves

tions. The good news is reopening the Cal Park

The Sonoma Marin Area Rail Transit, or

train tunnel, between Larkspur Landing and San

SMART? Hopefully, it will be on the November

Rafael, will begin this fall. It’s a $24 million proj-

2008 ballot. That depends on getting definite

Marin’s longtime environmentalists, the

ect, a portion of that money is coming from the

word from freight people regarding the ex-

ones many label “preservationists?” They

federal grant and it should be open by late ’08

tent of their operations in Northern California.

are an asset to the community, but they seem

or early ’09. In addition, at Gate Six Road and

SMART owns the tracks, but freight has an

afraid of saying yes to anything. Back in the

Bridgeway in north Sausalito, state-of-the-art

easement that would operate under SMART’s

1960s and ’70s, they were successful in say-

signaling will be completed within a year, en-

control. I advocate SMART because it would

ing no, and with good reason. Now, however,

abling safe biking from Mill Valley to the Golden

keep 30,000 tons of CO2 from entering the air

their repeated objections—an example being

Gate Bridge. Then a $1 million Class 1 bike trail

annually, as well as remove 7,000 cars a day

their mistruths regarding SMART—are causing

will soon be constructed over Puerto Suello Hill

from the congested 101 Freeway.

Marin’s large ecological footprint to grow even

in north San Rafael. Reopening the Camino Alto

very fast either.

bigger. I could use help from the environmen-

tunnel, which the feds have labeled the jewel

The Countywide General Plan? The big is-

tal community, but so far, I’m not getting it. I

in our crown, has yet to be resolved but a good

sue here is extending the Baylands Corridor to

hope the Sierra Club will continue its role as a

study of it, and the alternatives, will be worked

include the St. Vincent’s/Silveira property—and

moderating force.

on over the next three years. But by 2010, we’ll

I currently support that proposal. It would mean

be able to safely bicycle from the Golden Gate to

St. Vincent’s/Silveira, under fairness, could de-

Marin’s ecological footprint? I will admit,

Novato—and back.

velop 221 homes—121 at market value, 100

it’s large—it takes 27.4 acres of the earth’s

MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

usable and water to annually support each Marin resident—compared to 11 for France and for Italy. Half of it results from Marin’s dependence on the automobile, and 25 percent is from our energy sources. PG&E is working with us regarding the latter. Possibly, we could buy Marin’s 200 megawatts of energy from renewable sources such as wind and solar and save money in the process. It’s very exciting, but also complex, so we’re taking our time and

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studying it thoroughly. The outlawing of plastic bags? In Marin, I think it will happen by late 2008. Hopefully, it won’t be necessary. Already Mollie Stone’s has given away 10,000 reusable canvas bags, replacing plastic bags that reportedly cost them $6 million every year; DeLano’s in Tam Valley has eliminated them and Good Earth Natural Foods in Fairfax is following suit. Business is

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getting in front of the green movement on this one; it’s very exciting. By the way, I recently criticized single-use plastic water bottles at a supervisors meeting, and within days I was

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told the practice would eventually stop as far as Marin County Civic Center is concerned. For me, that’s very exciting. Final question: what did you mean by “out-Europe the Europeans”? In 2005, I spent two weeks studying in Delft, a small city in the Netherlands, along with other European cities. Next to gray sidewalks its residents have wide, red-colored concrete lanes for bikes, and beyond that are lanes for cars and buses. It all works so smoothly. I can honestly say that although their weather is much worse, their quality of life is superior to Marin’s. In addition, their ecological footprint is much lower. I think it’s because they aren’t as dependent on the single-occupancy automobile as we are. If a breakthrough like the Camino Alto tunnel could be made,

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MARIN

OCTOBER 2007

T HIN K

THE QUARRY

QUANDARY What’s a serene neighborhood— or a vital business—to do? BY J I M WOO D P H OTO S TIM PO RTER The San Rafael Rock Quarry is one of those places most in Marin know little about, while a few know everything about it. Located on an elbow of land jutting into San Pablo Bay, the quarry is a passing curiosity for hikers headed to China Camp State Park or golfers bound for the Peacock Gap Country Club. It’s nearly invisible from Point San Pedro Road save for its proximity to the towering smokestacks of the adjacent McNear Brickyard. Still, those who live in Peacock Gap and neighboring communities are all too aware of the quarry. They know the rumble of rock-laden big rigs; the thump of explosives turning big rocks into little ones; and the dusty grit in the air. They also know how to take the quarry to court in an effort to reconcile two disparate parts of Marin: the tranquil suburban life they envisioned, and an important industrial business that existed long before the first neighboring home . For these neighbors, the quarry amounts to a noisy nightmare in their midst. “Their 18wheeler trucks rumble by within 20 feet of our bedroom. It’s like we’re living on the 880 freeway,” says Dr. Denise Lucy, a business professor at Dominican University and co-president of the Point San Pedro Road Coalition, a neighborhood group formed to keep the quarry’s operations in check. “And when they’re blasting, people in houses across from the quarry say it feels like an earthquake.” For the owner, the Dutra Group, the quarry is a successful business that employs more than 175 people full time and uses much of the 1.5 million tons of rock it excavates each year to keep California’s delicate water system intact. “Right now we’re involved in rebuilding the Sacramento Delta’s levee system,” says Bill Dutra, chief executive of the 103-year-old company and grandson of its founder. “If those levees ever fail, the state’s water supply would be endangered, thousands of lives could be lost, and we’re talking about $40 billion in economic damages.”It’s the classic quandary of people vs. industry. Factor in that the communities are in one jurisdiction (the

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“The pit,” at the San Rafael Rock Quarry, measures six football ﬁelds wide and drops from 250 feet above sea level to an equal distance below sea level. The quarry is located on an elbow of land that juts into San Pablo Bay (Richmond is in the distance).

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City of San Rafael) and the quarry is in another ( the County of Marin) , and the quandary looks more like a quagmire.

The Quarry To find the quarry, head out of San Rafael past Trader J oe’s on Third Street until it becomes Point San Pedro Road, which continues east to the Loch Lomond Marina, Peacock Gap and China Camp— all are neighbors. The 272-acre waterfront quarry, however, was there first. Bestowed with rich deposits of clay and shale, the area was a viable brickyard as far back as 1870. When hard-rock quarrying began in 1929, hardly a soul lived nearby. After World War II, with the property ambivalently z oned “heavy industrial/ limited agricultural” and Marin County beginning to burgeon, the neighborhood began to fi ll with homes and people. With them came discord. It was also a period when decisions regarding the quarry’s operations were less than well defined. A he said/ we did/ they said/ I did culture is the lasting result. Wrangling over the quarry began in 1972 and continues today as a maelstrom of governmental acronyms, conflicting reports and overlapping dates. The county issued mining permits; the quarry indicated it would shut down by 1993; county supervisors rez oned the property to be compatible with surrounding areas; and real estate developers, lusting after the bayside land, began getting their building plans approved. Further complicating matters, the quarry was bought and sold several times during all the giving and taking. Bill Dutra, an up-by-the-bootstraps entrepreneur, purchased the quarry in 1986. He saw a lucrative opportunity where others saw the proverbial ( and literal) rock and a hard

“

Right now we’re involved in rebuilding the Sacramento Delta’s levee system. If those levees ever fail, the state’s water supply would be endangered, thousands of lives could be lost, and we’re talking about $40 billion in economic damages.

”

place. More than 20 years later, it’s reasonable to say he has taken the quarry’s operations to a higher— and, say neighbors, a noisier and dustier— level.

—Bill Dutra

The San Rafael Rock Q uarry is one of only two such waterfront operations in California ( the other is on Southern California’s Catalina Island) . Having bay frontage means eight-ton boulders, riprap and gravel can be placed directly on barges, then guided by tugboat to destinations like Pacifica and the Delta. An equal amount of the quarry’s product leaves on trucks that make their way down Point San Pedro Road to job sites throughout Marin and Sonoma counties. The geographic highlight and physical low point of the quarry is the Main Q uarry Bowl, aka the “pit,” a jagged, benched gash in the earth that, measuring west to east, is six football fields wide and drops from 250 feet above sea level to an equal distance below. At the bottom, visible over a precipitous edge, is a 50-foot-deep basin of rainwater. Current mining is centered on South Hill, where, says General Manager Steve Long, “there’s between 15 to 20 years of Franciscan sandstone yet to be mined.” To a visitor, the scene inside the quarry borders on the surreal. A spidery maz e of conveyor belts and sorters moves tons of rock from ground to truck. Huge yellow front-loaders with scoops the siz e of cars and biodiesel-powered dump trucks with monster wheels z ip with surprising agility between towering cones of material. Rising from what appears to be piles of rubble everywhere, but is in fact part of the $ 90 million in product generated at the quarry each year, are an asphalt batching plant, two crushing plants and three loading

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docks for the barges. To tour the quarry is to receive a firsthand look at how the industrial age works.

“

The Community Within a mile and a half of this scene, in addition to Peacock Gap, are the well-coiffed

Their 18-wheeler trucks rumble by within 20 feet of our bedroom. It’s like we’re living on the 880 freeway. And when they’re blasting, people in houses across from the quarry say it feels like an earthquake.

”

—dr. Denise Lucy

neighborhoods of Loch Lomond, Glenwood, Marina Bay Park and the recently completed 18-home Chapel Cove. All but Chapel Cove were established before 1986, when Dutra bought the quarry. So why were they ever permitted, with an existing quarry nearby? In 1982, San Rafael adopted the Peacock Gap Neighborhood Plan, wherein an owner previous to Dutra indicated mining operations would most likely be curtailed “within ten years.” O pposition to the quarry was formaliz ed eight years ago with the formation of the Point San Pedro Road Coalition, Dr. Lucy says. The group has 400 members, a doz en committees, and a five-member board of directors that meets regularly. “We hold community-wide meetings twice a year,” Lucy adds. The neighbors’ complaints focus on truck traffic, dust, explosive blasting said to be heard as much a mile and a half into the neighborhoods, and night lighting and noise from bargeloading operations. “Differing communities are impacted in different ways,” Lucy says.

The Lawsuit In 2000, the San Pedro Road Coalition, Marin County and the state attorney general’s office sued the Dutra Group. In 2004, Superior Court J udge J ohn Sutro issued a decision that cited Dutra for expanding his operations without proper permits, blamed Marin County for a lack of oversight and imposed limitations on quarry operations hoping to give homeowners some relief. E ffectively, he closed the quarry, but stayed the order pending an environmental review and twice-a-year status hearings to ascertain whether the quarry was making a goodfaith effort to comply with his order. Sutro’s order imposed numerous limitations on quarry operations. Among them: • No more than 250 big rig trips per weekday; none on weekends. • Rock crushing and/ or barge loading only between 7 a.m. and 10 p.m. weekdays; none on weekends. • Blasting only between 11: 30 a.m. and 1: 30 p.m. weekdays, with 36 hours’ advance notice posted on the quarry’s website; no blasting on weekends. Since then Dutra has, either voluntarily or at the coalition’s behest, installed a metering light to stagger the entry of big rigs onto Point San Pedro Road, placed tarps on trucks, improved the mechanism that removes dust and debris from trucks leaving the quarry, quieted backup beepers on haulers and loaders, bought a new street sweeper that cleans Point San Pedro Road twice a day, and initiated a “truck marshal” service to ensure independent truckers are watching their speed and staying in the right-hand lane.

The Future The relationship between the quarry and the community took a turn for the worse in 2006. That spring, on the heels of flooding in northern Marin County and the Hurricane Katrina levee collapses in New O rleans, Gov. Arnold Schwarz enegger ordered the emergency repair of 29 levees in the Sacramento– San J oaquin Delta, including some whose collapse would endanger the state’s water supply.

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The San Rafael Rock Quarry got the job and, without seeking county permission, ramped up its operations in July 2006. (“The public is my customer,” Dutra reportedly said at the time. “What they need, I do.”) The company sought retroactive permission from the Board of Supervisors for round-the-clock operations, saying it needed the extra hours to meet its state deadline for levee repair, but the board rejected the request and the matter landed back in Judge Sutro’s lap. At a hearing in January of this year, the judge said he had received 200 complaints from 70 residents. “I suggest to the quarry that before something is rammed down your throat that you don’t like, you ought to listen to these people,” he warned Dutra’s attorney. A court-ordered closing of the quarry seemed a distinct possibility. That would suit Supervisor Susan Adams, who represents the area. “They’ve definitely been out of compliance with both the court order and the zoning,” she maintains. Bill Dutra sees things differently. Because the quarry existed before the surrounding homes, he asserts in an interview, his “vested rights” preclude those of his neighbors. Also, the quarry is a “state-designated resource” because of its importance to public safety. Much of the work he does is for “schools, parks and roads right here in Marin County,” he adds. The next step in the saga is the completion of two environmental impact reports due in mid-to late 2008, Adams says. “One concerns the county’s amended mining permit that will formally reduce the quarry’s impact on its neighbors,” she says. The other “relates to what Mr. Dutra will do with his property once the quarry operation is no longer profitable.” The current post-mining plan calls for blasting out the north side of the quarry’s pit and allowing it to flood with water from San Pablo Bay. A 600-slip marina would occupy the newly formed lagoon, which would be surrounded by 350 homes, plus office and retail space. At which point Dutra and his neighbors might see eye to eye on one

As one of only two waterfront quarries in California, the San Rafael Rock Quarry barges half of its product to distant job sites. SRRQ also stores product on site and has an asphalt batching plant.

thing: T h i nk o f th e traf fic o n P o i nt S an P edro R o ad th en.

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L IF E

MILL VALLEY FILM FESTIVAL TURNS 30 Celebrating three decades of outstanding cinema STORY BONNIE MONTE

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ark Fishkin knows how to pick ’em. Last year’s Mill Valley Film Festival not only screened The Queen and The Last King of Scotland, which both went on to garner widespread acclaim; it also featured appearances by their respective stars, Helen Mirren and Forest Whitaker, who later won Oscars for their roles. This year’s 30th anniversary program promises an equally stellar lineup, with Cassandra’s Dream from Woody Allen; Michael Clayton, starring George Clooney; dozens of independent and foreign films; documentaries, including The Pixar Story; shorts; a children’s festival; and a tribute to director Ang Lee, whose Lust, Caution with Joan Chen will be screened on opening night. Whether any entries receive an Oscar next spring is almost beside the point. The festival is foremost a showcase for bringing outstanding cinema to Northern California filmgoers. “It’s a sophisticated audience,” says Fishkin, the executive director and founder of the festival. “The Bay Area is an even stronger market than L.A. for specialty films.” Ideally, of course, some of the showings will have a life beyond October. “Most films that are made have no distributor,” Fishkin says, “so for many independent films, this could be their last shot. But my hope is that they get noticed.” That happened in a big way back in 1987 when the world premiere of Walking on Water, starring Edward James Olmos, received a standing ovation. After the screening, says Fishkin, “distributors were racing to the pay phone in the lobby of the Sequoia.” The film was picked up by Warner Brothers and re-released as Stand and Deliver. Another success story was The Brother From Another Planet, which turned into a box-office hit for then-little-known director John Sayles. Other noteworthy films that had their U.S. premiere in Mill Valley include My Left Foot, Cinema Paradiso and Strictly Ballroom. So significant is the festival’s cachet that industry luminaries routinely show up for tributes. The roster of attendees has included Donald Sutherland, Robin Williams, Jean-Pierre Jeunet, Felicity Huffman, Tim Robbins and Robert Altman. “We’ve been blessed with some fantastic guests,” Fishkin says. “We had Jeanne Moreau in 1982. Jeanne Moreau came to Mill Valley!” Fishkin never aspired to become an indie film guru. He was a ceramicist who left the East Coast for a motorcycle trip west and ended up in Colorado, where he opened an art gallery. He was still there for the birth of the Telluride Film Festival. When he moved to the Bay Area in 1976, he saw a void. In an area rife with creativity, he says, “I was appalled at the lack of alternative cinema. There was such tremendous talent here: Carol Ballard, who directed The Black Stallion. Director Michael Ritchie (The Candidate) was living in Mill Valley. There were so many vibrant people.” He reels off a list of industry greats: George Lucas, Frances Ford Coppola, Ann Hershey, John Korty, Gunvor Nelson, cinematographer Dave Meyers, Caleb Deschanel. “There were great people working in video, too.” Fishkin began programming a weekly film series at College of Marin, then took over Mill 1977, he formed a board of directors with Rita Cahill and Lois Kohl. They recruited 10 subscribing members, some of whom are still among today’s 3,000 active members, and the Mill Valley Film Festival was born. The first program in 1978 ran for three days and had a budget of $11,000. “Those were films I’d still be proud to show today,” says Fishkin. “That was such an exciting time. It was the renais-

PREVIOUS PAGE: Mark Fishkin,

founder and executive director of the Mill Valley Film Festival. OPPOSITE; Robert Altman, 2002

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sance of American filmmaking. It was also the height of the Australian new wave.” The program featured the work of local filmmakers, including Coppola’s The Rain People and Lucas’s documentary Filmmaker. Also included was a tribute to writer/director/cinematographer John Korty. “When he walked in a few minutes before the show, I said to myself, ‘We’ve made it,’” Fishkin says.

OP ENING SPREA D PH OTO: TIM PORTER

Valley’s Saturday Night Movies at the Odd Fellows Hall (now the Throckmorton Theatre). In

Innovation was a hallmark from the beginning, with a children’s film program and filmmaking workshops for kids. The festival was also among the first to embrace video. And Fishkin calls its industry panels and seminars for filmmakers “our best-kept secret.” Fishkin is grateful for the early encouragement from local talent. Lucas is a longtime supporter. So is director Philip Kaufman, who was honored in the festival’s second year. Martha Coolidge’s semiautobiographical documentary about date rape, Not a Pretty Picture, screened in 1976. “She has gone on to be one of Hollywood’s top women directors,” Fishkin says. Wider industry support came gradually. My Bodyguard, Tony Bill’s directorial debut, was shown in the third year, and the film went on to do well as a result. “The industry realized we can increase exposure and success,” Fishkin says. It wasn’t until year 10, though, that they started to get major corporate sponsors.

THE FESTIVAL WAS ALSO AMONG THE FIRST TO EMBRACE VIDEO. AND FISHKIN CALLS ITS INDUSTRY PANELS AND SEMINARS FOR FILMMAKERS “OUR BESTKEPT SECRET.” MARIN

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“IT’S A TIME OF LOOKING BACK AND ALSO LOOKING FORWARD.”

The festival’s prestige has steadily increased. In 1987, Fishkin helped launch Singapore’s film festival and programmed all its English-language films. (As a result of that collaboration, Singapore’s most recent grand prize winner will be screened in Marin this year.) In 1991, he was invited to Moscow to program a retrospective of the Mill Valley Film Festival. “I showed six films that depicted different aspects of America,” he says. “There were huge crowds. It got a tremendous reception.” Afterward, there was a move to have one of the films, Longtime Companion, shown on public television because of its discussion of AIDS. This year, as the festival turns 30, “it’s a time of looking back and also looking forward,” Fishkin says. For October’s festivities, tributes will now have a physical identity; Fishkin has been working with a local artist to produce a statuette. New outreach programs are in the works from the California Film Institute (CFI), the festival’s parent company, which already works with nearly 4,000 kids a year. Its flagship program offers free screenings with visiting filmmakers, as well as subject-matter experts who address such topics as racism, poverty, religion, AIDS, activism, war and the environment. Another, yearlong curriculum guides 200 high school students through a series of international films that address coming-of-age issues. And the Young Critics’ Jury is a crash course in media literacy, filmmaking, film festivals and film curating for 20 high school students, some of whom select youth-produced films to be screened during the festival. Last spring, CFI launched My Place, which gives urban kids “the opportunity to make a short film about their neighborhood, their school, their home, whatever ‘my place’ signifies to them,” ABOVE: Bob Weir and friends, 2002.

says outreach coordinator John Morrison. Ten youngsters who live in San Rafael’s Canal district

OPPOSITE, TOP ROW: Bonnie Raitt,

participated in the pilot program. They made storyboards, learned to use Photoshop and were

2002; Peter Coyote, Malcolm McDowell, Sean Penn, Robin Wright Penn, 2001; Jon Schaech, Christina Applegate, 1999. SECOND ROW: Felicity Huffman, William H. Macy, 1998; Helen Mirren, Mark Fishkin, 2006; Dick Cavett, 2000. THIRD ROW: Jonathan Winters, Robin Williams, 2002; George Lucas, 1985; Michael Moore, 2002. BOTTOM ROW: Sydney Pollack, 2006; Angelina Jolie, Jon Voight and son, 1985; Chris Isaak, 2002

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equipped with a video camera. “There were some standouts,” Morrison says. “When they showed one student’s work at the community-based Canal Alliance, there wasn’t a dry eye in the house.” Next year My Place will expand to include kids living in San Francisco’s Hunters Point. Also new is the CFI headquarters, which moved from Mill Valley to San Rafael within walking distance of the Rafael theater, one of the festival’s two venues (with the Sequoia in Mill Valley). Despite the move, “it will always be the Mill Valley Film Festival,” says Fishkin. He acknowledges that it’s harder for new artists to live in Marin these days, compared to the 1970s. “But everything changes. Life has cycles. Mill Valley is still a community that’s tremendously supportive of the arts.” The Mill Valley Film Festival runs October 4–14. Details at mvff.com.

H E R E AN D T H ERE

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TIBURON FRANCOPHILES Marin family of seven live the French country lifestyle both here and abroad BY P. J . B R E M I ER P H OTO S BAR BAR A R I E S

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amily is important to Matthew Le Merle and Alison Davis, and so is the

time they spend together. The E nglish-born couple has five children at home— Max, Tallulah, Louis, Felix and Leo— and a large extended family living abroad. So when they sought a second home, they looked for one where they

could welcome all the relatives at any one time and accommodate friends in summer. They also wanted their children to be acquainted with their E uropean heritage. In 2001, after a yearlong search, they found the 15th-century Châ teau d’O igny en Valois, an officially registered Monument Historique in France, where they now spend Christmas, E aster, summer and other vacations. While choosing a châ teau makes sense given the family’s origins, they purposely didn’t look for one in Southern France, with its Mediterranean climate, olives, lavender and stucco homes. “We have all of that in Tiburon,” says Le Merle, co-president of the angel investment firm Keiretsu Forum of San Francisco and the North Bay. “We wanted our second home to be different.” He and Davis, managing partner of the private equity firm Belvedere Capital LP,

PREVIOUS PAGE: Tiburon home is situated on a hill with water views. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Living room; alcove off living room is ideal space for piano; LeMerle family from left to right: Louis, Matthew, Leo, Alison, Max and Felix.

found their Tiburon home 11 years ago after a long, fruitless search on the Peninsula, says Le Merle. O nly one day of house-hunting in Marin convinced them “this was the place to be.” Here their spacious Mediterranean-style home is set on six acres with wraparound and water views, a sports court and gardens filled with lavender, lemons, herbs and roses. Inside, colonnades, curved walls, pitched ceilings and large spaces define many rooms.

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LEFT: Living room is decorated with French-inspired furniture and details; OPPOSITE PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: interior hall; Tallulah Le Merle practices guitar; indoor pool. PAGE 90, 91: exterior shots of Château d’Oigny and gardens.

Several spaces, including the kitchen, living, media and children’s rooms, underwent some stylish but practical changes in a recent rede-

around the village green with its Romanesque church and the château,” says Le Merle.

sign by Yvonne Lowry of Transform Your Décor in Tiburon and her de-

The current château, built on the foundations of an earlier one, is a

sign partner Alycia Freeman. The kitchen has a fresh coat of paint and

graceful three-story medieval brick building constructed with Renaissance

new hardware; designed for entertaining, it also has a fireplace, twin

influences and all the requisite status symbols of that era—a moat (now

islands and refrigerators, and multiple workstations. This is where the

gone), towers, spires, and pigeonnaires—and even a secret subterranean

family eats, but when guests come meals are served at a dining room

dungeon. Only 10 families, including the Le Merles, have owned it in the

table that cleverly converts into one for billiards.

last 300 years. “We’re the new kids on the block,” Davis says.

“My favorite space is the grand living room,” Lowry says. “It has large

Despite inevitable changes, the château, and life around it, remains

curvy sofas in a fern-green crushed velvet, parquet floors and a wall of

firmly anchored in both past and present. Beyond the ancient stone

windows that face the bay.”

wall lies the dense Forêt de Retz, a former royal hunting ground where

There are other rooms that might easily qualify as favorites—the

handsome stags and small game once eluded aristocratic parties. Today

wine cellar, gym, study or library—but the Le Merle children especially

the government owns the 50,000-acre forest, visitors are welcome to

like the indoor pool, where Lowry has incorporated outdoor-like col-

bike, hike and horseback-ride its trails, and hunting, on horseback or

ors: a watery blue for the ceiling and a Mediterranean sky blue for the

foot, still takes place. “It’s not unusual to be driving along and suddenly

columns.

be surprised by a pack of hounds and then a troop of blue-jacketed

Lowry consulted each child about preferences for bedroom decor.

horsemen appearing from one forest, crossing the road, and disappear-

Tallulah picked soft pink with accents of orange; Louis suggested a skate-

ing into the forests on the other side, with the sound of their [brass]

boarding theme; Leo chose a football motif and Felix a safari one. Max,

horns the only proof that they have been there,” Le Merle says.

the oldest, went for sophisticated neutral colors and pieces from the family’s art collection.

The Château Today The house itself is “a magical place—you lose all track of time when

A Château’s Colorful Past

you’re there,” says Lowry, who helped redesign several of its rooms

Château d’Oigny en Valois, an ancient 25-acre property, is in the historical

with Freeman.

heart of France, an hour north of Paris, a half hour from the Champagne

The main floor consists of high-ceilinged rooms with fireplaces; a

region and 40 minutes from Charles de Gaulle International Airport.

stylish salle à manger with red silk walls, paned windows, stone floors,

Shopping, museums and Disneyland Paris are nearby.

exposed-beam ceiling and two dining tables; an elegant wood-paneled

The village of Oigny was once a simple Gallo-Roman settlement in a

parquet-floored salon; an intimate bibliothèque; a game room; a butler’s

forest clearing. Today it’s home to about 200 residents who live in “just a

pantry and an updated cuisine. A spiral limestone staircase leads to the

few-score houses and even fewer farms and larger residences, arranged

two floors above.

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O f the eight bedrooms, some have large fireplaces, most have their

Mornings are informal at the châ teau. Guests enjoy a simple

own bathrooms, two are located within a tower, and almost all have

breakfast before exploring the local countryside, visiting Paris or just

views of the countryside or gardens. The master suite, in one of the

relaxing. They return in the evening and linger over dinner. “If the

spiral towers, connects to a salon privée via a curved staircase carpeted

weather is nice,” Davis says, “we often dine under the stars on the

in a leopard print Lowry found at the Paris Design Center. It’s inspired

patio overlooking the gardens and watch the bats come out of towers

by one at the nearby Palais de Compiè gne, erstwhile home of E mpress

as the dark falls.”

E ugé nie, who was wedded to Napoleon III.

In the evening, the Le Merle children head to the village green for a

Visiting older children like to stay in the more casual relais across the

soccer game, or to play guitars and visit with friends from the village.

garden from the châ teau; there, they “play music and games hang out

“We don’t have television and discourage computers and Game Boys, so

away from the adults,” Davis says. This guest house has two bedrooms, a

most visiting families are surprised to see how much fun the children

sitting room, a bathroom and a carpeted loft that can easily host a slum-

have without any ‘ connected’ access or stimulation,” Le Merle says.

ber party of 20 or more. The kitchen is outfitted with a fireplace and piz z a oven and can be stocked with party snacks and beverages for hun-

The Château’s Gardens

gry teens.

“Like most rural châ teaux in France, O igny was built to be self-contained,”

More romantic is the ivy-covered stone gatehouse with a private bed-

he points out. Accordingly, its diverse collection of buildings includes a

room on one level and a coz y sitting room with fireplace and views on

basse-cour with barnyard, stables ( now converted to a gym, art studio and

the other. By tradition, any girl married in the village can spend her hon-

storage) and farmhouse. The original landscaping was designed in the

eymoon night here. The offer is still open, says Le Merle, but “no one has

1800s by one of the châ teau’s most notable owners, Henri Charpentier,

asked since we arrived.”

a general in Napoleon Bonaparte’s army. He is credited with adding the

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meadows and many of the trees. The floral gardens were later renovated and up until recently received 100,000 visitors a year. Today, three pairs of brilliantly feathered peafowl roam the grounds. A trio of parttime gardeners maintains the formal gardens, laid out in a parterre with a knot garden and classically shaped topiaries. These lead to a lower pond, an arboretum and an enclosed garden room with an astrological motif.

The Château in the 21st Century The Le Merles open the gardens to the public on Bastille Day and in O ctober for the J ourné es du Patrimoine dedicated to French history and culture. Le Merle’s mother has researched and documented the châ teau’s history, and his son Max has created a website for it ( chateauoigny.com) . In California, the family has auctioned off weeklong stays at the châ teau, bringing in about $ 200,000 for such local entities as the Marin Rowing Association, the Baroque Philharmonic O rchestra and Reed school. Châ teau d’O igny has been owned by titled seigneurs, French commoners and now the Le Merles— and while all owners are entitled to change their name to De O igny, the newcomers are not so inclined. As Le Merle explains, they see themselves as “temporary custodians for one of France’s most important historical monuments.”

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J O U R NEY

THE LOIRE

VALLEY PLAYGROUND OF KINGS STORY & PHOTOS PATRICIA WOEBER

100

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OPPOSITE PAGE: Scene of the Loire River as it

winds from east to west. THIS PAGE: Chenonceau Château spans the Cher, a tributary of the Loire River.

Once the playground of French kings and queens, today the Loire Valley abounds with touristic diversions. Its sumptuous châteaux (palaces) welcome us. Their great forests, bucolic meadows and lovely gardens are open for our enjoyment. Only a three-hour drive from Paris, the valley harbors a fabulously rich culture. Along a 40-mile stretch of the Loire

River, between Orleans and Tours, four fascinating royal châteaux, Chambord, Blois, Chenonceau and Amboise, define the romance and nostalgic feel of this region. Over the years I’ve explored this area a number of times. Like other visitors, I motor along or stroll, hike, or bike at my

leisure. On the paved path near Orleans, my feet hardly pump the pedals of my rented electric bicycle as I survey the fast-flowing Loire River on my left and ancient stone walls, festooned with pink and red roses, on my right. These modes of travel—driving, cycling and hiking—are pleasures in themselves, especially if one honors the contemporary mandate to pack light. In contrast, the monarchs of the 13th to 17th centuries traveled with all their belongings: clothing and linens in heavy wooden trunks, beds, chairs, tables, carpets, tapestries and the like. Indeed, MARIN

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101

King François I (who reigned 1515 to 1547), partial to

of a royally quirky personality. François I adopted the sala-

elaborately embroidered clothing with large puffy sleeves,

mander as his symbol and plastered his palaces with the

was always accompanied by his retinue of court nobles

amphibian’s image. The walls of one room in Chambord

and servants—some 9,000 people in all—while shuttling

features 200 different salamanders in bas-relief.

between his great castles at Chambord, Blois and Amboise,

The next day I motored on to Blois, a city replete with

among others. Each fortnight he moved the whole caboo-

art and history only a few miles west of Chambord. The

dle to a different château. This mobile court made the val-

central courtyard of Blois Château has a remarkable out-

ley the capital of France.

door statue in the likeness of Louis XII, who chose a por-

I spent my first night in Orleans—capital of France in

cupine as his symbol (it adorns the building’s façade). The

the Middle Ages and the town where Joan of Arc withstood

building’s spiral staircase and four wings illustrate differ-

a siege by the English in 1429. The next morning I drove

ent architectural periods. From the same spot, with just

25 miles west to Chambord. The first view of the château

swivels of my heels, I noted Gothic (a medieval fortress,

took my breath away. Conceived by François I, it contains

13th century), Flamboyant Gothic with elaborate decora-

440 rooms, 13 flights of stairs (one in a double-helix shape),

tion (Louis XII wing, 15th century), Italian Renaissance

70 sets of back stairs and—most striking of all—365 ornate

(François I wing, 16th century) and Classicism (Gaston

chimneys poking skyward like a fantastic forest. It took

d’Orleans, 17th century).

1,800 craftsmen 30 years to build the palace.

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Strolling inside Blois’s mammoth interior, I was in-

François aimed to impress and he succeeded.

trigued by these royal characters who built homes that

Chambord oozes royal power. A tour of the château and

have lasted centuries. One vignette in particular captured

surrounding forests (13,600 acres) reveals amusing details

my fascination: in 1617, Louis XIII imprisoned his mother,

OCTOBER 2007

OPPOSITE: Blois Chateâu, statue of Louis XII; THIS PAGE:

View from Amboise Chateâu looking over the town of Amboise on the Loire River.

“

Strolling inside Blois’s mammoth interior, I was intrigued by these royal characters who built homes that have lasted centuries. One vignette in particular captured my fascination: in 1617, Louis XIII imprisoned his mother, Marie de Medicis, here. But she disguised herself as a laundrywoman, climbed down by rope into the moat, and swam away in a daring escape.

”

If You Go GETTING AROUND: From Paris, the Loire Valley is two to three hours by car or 55 minutes by rapid TGV train. Renault Eurodrive offers a rental package for 17 days or more, with car pickup in Paris or Orleans. 888.532.1221, renaultusa.com. Electric bikes (190 miles of bike trails), Orleans Tourist Ofﬁce, 02.38.24.05.05. SITES: Chambord Château: chambord.org. Chenonceau Château, chenonceau.com. Events at Amboise, chateauamboise.com. Château tours, loiredeschateaux.com. Passport Val de Loire, $30, entrance to 100 monuments, including some châteaus, monuments-nationaux.fr/en. List of 86 parks and gardens, jardins-de-france.com. ACCOMMODATIONS: In Paris, the Hotel Lancaster is just off the Champs-Elysées, 800.223.6800, lhw.com/lancaster. In Amboise, Le Manoir Les Minimes Hotel, $100 to $475, manoirlesminimes.com. In Suevres, Château de la Rue, chateaudelarue.com. RESTAURANTS: Restaurant du Grand Saint Benoît in Benoîtsur-Loire. La Tonnellerie Hotel and restaurant in Beaugency, tonelri.com. Château de Pray in Amboise. The tented bistro in Villandry gardens near Tours, chateauvillandry.com. MORE INFORMATION: Loire Valley Tourist Board, visaloire. com. Touraine, tourism-touraine. com. French government tourist ofﬁce, franceguide.com.

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FROM LEFT: Chambord Château of Francois I has 365 ornate chimneys and 440 rooms; local man with bread.

Marie de Medicis, here. But she disguised herself as a laundrywoman, climbed down by rope into the moat, and swam away in a daring escape. From Blois, I drove to the hamlet of Suevres to spend a night in an 18thcentury manor, Château de la Rue, where owner Madame de Caix served a dinner of delicious salmon and potato gratin. Afterward I drifted off to dreams of galloping behind Louis XII and François, both on thoroughbreds. Then I was off to Chenonceau, built over the Cher River and known as the most beautiful château in France. Chenonceau was a gift of love from Henri II to Diane de Poitiers, a court beauty and his favorite. Such is the role of seduction in history! When Henri was killed in 1559, his wife, Queen Catherine de Medicis, took revenge on Diane by kicking her out and moving in. The queen planted a garden to rival Diane’s, and today visitors can tour both exquisite gardens. Indeed, the Loire Valley, blessed with fertile soil and amiable weather, is known as the birthplace of France’s gardens. In nearby Parc Arboretum des Grandes Bruyères, a 900-species garden with heather, roses and exotic shrubs, I heard the owner, Madame Rochefoucauld, say, “I had no idea what I was getting into when I began.” Yet today, at 75, she perseveres, gardening six hours a day, every day, and planting 200 trees a year from seedlings. Next on my itinerary was Amboise, a town straddling the Loire River. Louis XI, Charles VIII, Louis XII and François I all added to Amboise Château, imprinting their grand styles on impressive bedrooms and salons furnished with exceptional Gothic and Renaissance pieces. Among the many wonderful meals I enjoyed on this trip, the filet de canard prepared by chef Ludovic Laurenty at Château de Pray in Amboise was especially outstanding. I stayed in the recently renovated 18th-century Le Manoir Les Minimes, with a view of the Loire River and Amboise Château from my bedroom window. I ended the journey in Tours, former home of Louis XI and Saint Martin, ambling along elegant avenues and shady squares to a 13th-century Gothic cathedral that took 337 years to build. In Place de Plumereau, a onetime market square now awash with the gaily colored umbrellas of cafes and brasseries, I toasted my time in the playground of the kings with a glass of Chenin Blanc, the white wine of the Loire.

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BIGGEST LITTLE CITY IN THE WORLD

RENO’S MANY ATTRACTIONS BEYOND THE WORLD OF CASINOS WHENEVER I CROSS DONNER SUMMIT going east on Interstate 80, as I drop into the craggy confines of the Truckee River canyon, I typically enter a 30-minute span of fantasiz ing. As the highway twists beneath towering granite bluffs, I see myself as a time traveler. No longer am I ensconced comfortably in my 21st-century four-wheel-drive stagecoach. For this final stretch of road through Sierra Nevada, I imagine the original pioneers making their boom-or-bust journey. My daydreaming halts abruptly with the appearance of a modern-day outpost, the aptly named Boomtown, followed by a lineup of hotel and casino billboards offering enticing claims such as “loosest slots,” “let the good times roll” and “more comps, more winners.” I’m entering Reno: “the Biggest Little City in the World.” Since its inception in the 1860s, when Reno became popular as a gambling mecca for miners and railroad workers, the city has assumed various identities, from notorious divorce capital of the world to perennial country cousin of glitz y Las Vegas. Today, Reno is in the midst of a renaissance built around an advantage of what existed here all along: its natural environs. To capitaliz e on these dramatic outdoor boundaries, the city is partnering with its cross-mountain neighbor to crown itself “Reno-Tahoe: America’s Adventure Place.” STORY & PHOTOS ROBERT KAUFMAN

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Marketing slogans aside, the variety of out-

Whether golf is a valid adventure is best de-

Considering the 90-degree weather, it was a wel-

door adventures possible here is indeed lim-

bated elsewhere (say, the 19th hole), but when

come plunge, but climbing back on board was

ited only by the duration of your visit and the

a place like Reno-Tahoe offers a menu of more

moment I hope doesn’t end up on YouTube.

physical abuse your body can endure. My agony

heart-thumping activities I cannot partake of

Next, I ventured back up the hill to

threshold is usually fairly limited; I tend not to

at home, the temptation to participate is ir-

Northstar-at-Tahoe, where I sought out more

travel anywhere without a round of golf on the

resistible. So on one recent visit, I parked my

tranquil activity. I made friends with my new

itinerary. Fortunately, Reno’s 4,500-foot elevation

golf cart, elevated my risk meter and headed

four-legged buddy, Taco, who carried me on a

protects it from most of the winter snowstorms

to downtown Reno. No, not to ride the shoul-

trail ride to a peak overlooking Martis Valley

that make the Tahoe Basin a skier’s paradise,

ders of some hotshot at the craps table, but to

along Highway 267. Thoroughly enjoying the

thus allowing the golf courses to remain open

test my command of an inflatable kayak on the

serenity of the experience, I extended the trip

most of the year. That means that even if I dare

Truckee River, which flows right through the

an extra hour by using a revolutionary advance

tackle the ski slopes or cross-country trails, I can

heart of the city.

in communications that would have been the

also bundle up for a brisk 18 during the winter.

My voyage started at the west end of town

The Reno area has 11 public courses. Only

at Mayberry Park. From there, it was all down-

Back in Reno after a sunbaked day, I looked

the Resort at Red Hawk in Sparks, however,

stream (Class II to III) about 5.5 miles back to

forward only to one activity, requiring no brain

has luxurious golf villas set up for those who

Reno Whitewater Park, a $1.5 million project in

or muscle function other than the act of getting

want a home-living atmosphere while on va-

the middle of Reno’s hotel-casino and arts dis-

horizontal at Grand Sierra Resort and Casino,

cation. The Lakes Course, designed by Robert

trict. Last winter’s snowpack was extremely low,

my home base. All the guest rooms at this lux-

Trent Jones Jr., provides plenty of challenge,

so Mike Miltner, owner of Tahoe Whitewater

urious hotel (formerly Reno Hilton), includ-

with more than 100 bunkers in a setting cer-

Tours, forewarned me about low water lev-

ing 11 floors of hotel-condominium units, have

tified as Nevada’s first Audubon International

els and a multitude of “sleeper rocks.” Sure

been renovated with the requisite contemporary

Signature Sanctuary (one of 35 in the world).

enough, what I’d envisioned as a relaxing river

trimmings. In 2009, it will also be home to the

For the more timid, or the sand averse, there’s

float turned into a soggy pinball adventure that

nation’s largest indoor waterpark—a fitting com-

also an 18-hole putting course.

threw my vessel into a full tilt on one occasion.

plement to all those outdoor natural attractions.

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Places to Stay

Things to Do

Places to Eat

Grand Sierra Resort & Casino Northern

Kayaking and Rafting Guided day trips

La Famiglia An aptly named family-owned

Nevada’s largest hotel-casino, this luxury

on the Truckee River in Reno or Lake

Italian restaurant since 2003, where all

property with 1,975 rooms and suites plus

Tahoe. 775.787.5000 or 530.581.2441,

pasta is made fresh by the son, Sergio.

branded shopping is now celebrating its one-

gowhitewater.com.

775.423.1414, lafamigliareno.com.

year anniversary after major renovations.

Horseback Riding Take in High Sierra

Dolce Enoteca E Ristorante High-end

800.648.5080, grandsierraresort.com.

views riding through meadows and gentle

Italian cuisine with glamorous Hollywood

The Resort at Red Hawk This destination

rolling hills on well-trained horses from

ambience in the Grand Sierra Resort Casino.

resort offers packages starting at $120 in

Northstar Resort Stables. 775.969.3315,

775.324.9444, dolcegroup.com.

golf course villas and the opportunity to enjoy

northstarattahoe.com.

Stone House Cafe Enjoy your meal in a

two championship courses. 775.626.6000,

Golf Take your pick from a wide array of

relaxing atmosphere either indoors or

resortatredhawk.com.

courses with spectacular views and varying

outside by the ﬁre pit. 775.284.3895,

Siena Hotel Spa & Casino Enjoy a touch of

challenges, all over the Reno–Lake Tahoe

stonehousecafereno.com.

Tuscany at this elegant hotel and spa on the

region. golfthehighsierra.com.

Lexie’s on the River Overlooking the

bank of the Truckee River in downtown Reno.

Nevada Museum of Art Founded in 1931, the

Truckee River, this contemporary restaurant

775.327.4362, sienareno.com.

oldest cultural institution in Nevada is a forum

has a menu emphasizing fresh ingredients

Eldorado Hotel & Casino Located downtown,

for artists, community visual arts activities and

and a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence

this premier hotel has 816 luxurious rooms and

exhibits. nevadaart.org.

wine list. 775.321.5831, sienareno.com/

spa suites plus great headliner entertainment.

The Riverwalk District Lodging, shops,

dining/lexies.

800.879.8879, eldoradoreno.com.

restaurants, bars and entertainment in a

The Chocolate Bar Cheesecake, trufﬂes and

Silver Legacy Resort Casino The newest

friendly area that celebrates Reno’s culture

fondue made with Grand Cru chocolates

and largest hotel-casino downtown offers

and history year-round. renoriver.org.

from all over the world. Appetizers, wine and

Victorian-style accommodations. Packages

If you go Reno-Tahoe: America’s Adventure

cocktails are also available. 775.337.1122,

available. 800.687.8733, silverlegacy.com.

Place: visitrenotahoe.com.

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109

Connoisseur’s Heaven

STORY & PHOTOS ROBERT KAUFMAN

FOOD AND WINE ON THE CENTRAL COAST

f all you know about San Luis Obispo County is that it’s halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, you’re missing much of the story about California’s Central Coast. And that story has much to do with the culinary and vintage

landscapes that border Highway 101 and the Pacific beaches that hug the famously picturesque Highway 1. For a one-stop feast on the best of the region’s freshly picked agricultural treasures (and barbecued ribs), just attend the six-block-long Farmers’ Market held Thursday evenings year-round in downtown San Luis Obispo. This thriving city and college community (California Polytechnic is based here) is located near a dozen inland communities and beach towns, each possessing 110

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distinctive charm. O n the southern end, the time-warp town of Pismo Beach has miles of unspoiled beaches, visible from an oceanfront room balcony at the Pismo Lighthouse Suites on the Pacific bluffs. The north end is home to the quaint village of Cambria, where the seaside hotels in a row along Moonstone Beach have seductive names like FogCatcher Inn and aqua-tainment is provided December to March by sea otters and gray whales right outside your front door. The most cherished output of the local economy comes from fertile soil recogniz ed in the late 19th century by California missionaries as ideal terra firma for growing wine grapes. Modern-day visionaries have transformed this diverse topography with distinct microclimates into the thirdlargest wine-producing region in the state. O f the area’s nearly 200 wineries, the majority are in the Paso Robles region along Highway 46, including many with welcoming and unpretentious tasting rooms. At the Windward Vineyard, owners Marc Goldberg ( aka the “wine shepherd”— he says the vineyard is the wine-

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maker) and Maggie D’Ambrosia are producing exceptional Burgundy-style Pinot Noir. The southern corner of San Luis O bispo

get the newskin glow

County is ground z ero for the cool-climate E dna Valley and contiguous Arroyo Grande Valley. Here I got a sense of the cooperative spirit of pioneering area winemakers at the shared tasting room of 25-year-old O rtman Family Vineyards and Saucelito Canyon Vineyard, the latter producing Z infandel from its 125-year-old vines. Also epitomiz ing the local passion for local bounty is J ack Creek Farms on Highway 46, where owners Becky and Mandy Barlogio, two sisters from a farming family in the town of Templeton, rejected full culinary college scholarships in favor of cultivating the land and business that’s been in the family for five generations. So next time you’re driving through the Central Coast area, slow down. Savor the fruits

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of the labor and the neighborly hospitality of those who work and live in San Luis O bispo

luxuriously located in The Sanctuary day spa at

County. As mama J oy Barlogio says, “It’s all

Bay Club Marin, Corte Madera Town Center. Non-members welcome.

about the food we grow.” And the wine. www.newskinclinic.com

Complimentary MD consultation: 415.945.9555

More information: sanluisobispocounty.com.

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FIRST PERSON

FINDING A GOOD DOCTOR IS THE BEST MEDICINE BY DAWN YUN

I’VE GOT ONE OF THOSE RARE DISEASES WITH A LONG NAME: cutaneous T-cell non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma, or mycosis fungoides. It could kill me, but with a lifetime of treatment, it should not. My disease is not my story, though. My story is even scarier—and can happen to anyone. It’s about my nightmarish search for a doctor who could not only figure out what was wrong with me, but also treat me like more than just another cog in a dysfunctional health care system. Let’s start in the middle. One day, after months of medical missteps on the part of my “knowledgeable” doctor, she sat across from me at her desk and was about to do something she loved—order another test. I’d had many already, even for things I didn’t have, like gynecological problems. She smiled the lab technician. Tumor? My worst fear. I was outraged. After months of waiting for results of tests looking for one kind of cancer, she was now suggesting that maybe something else was growing inside me. And that smile? What was wrong with her? And what was wrong with me for keeping her as my doctor? It was a catalytic moment. I’d had enough. Enough of the calypso music that she played in her of-

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PHOTO: TIM PORTER

and spoke into the phone. “Let’s make sure there’s not some big old tumor sitting inside her,” she said to

fice so inappropriately ( Tumors? Let’s dance! ) . E nough of the phone calls from other patients she took in front of me. E nough of the physicals that never happened.

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enlightened in the sensitivity department. In the process, I had been transformed from a funny, happy mother of two who led a writing salon ( the Writing Mamas at Book Passage) into a scared, anxious 46-year-old who didn’t know whom to trust. I tried to hide my problems from friends and colleagues. I was living parallel lives, and neither was going well.

The Rash The whole thing began with a blotchy rash on my thigh. “It’s cellulitis,” said my doctor. She

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prescribed steroid shots, which I got for more than a year. The rash persisted. Then she gave me dermatologists’ names.

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O ne said it was nothing, but wondered was I interested in laser resurfacing? I returned to my doctor’s office and saw her physician’s assistant. “I don’t know what it is,” she said. “I do,” I said. “It’s cellulities.” “That is not cellulitis,” the assistant said and brought in another doctor. He didn’t know what it was either. That doctor sent me to an old-school dermatologist who he promised wouldn’t try to sell me Botox ( not that I didn’t want it) . He took a biopsy. The results would take up to 10 weeks, he said. “Be patient,” he said. “These things take time.” There were more biopsies, then at last a report— inconclusive. “Suggestive of, but not definitive for” lymphoma, it said.

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

The Anxiety of Uncertainty The thought of cancer and the unfinished diagnosis preoccupied me. I had trouble staying focused in my roles of attentive wife and involved mother. I had writer’s block. I couldn’t

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get my mind off the disease spreading through my body—whatever it was. I couldn’t sleep, so I got medication. I wouldn’t eat, thinking, irrationally, that food

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exercising an hour and a half a day. My arms tingled; my hands felt like claws. I told my doctor. “It’s the way you hold yourself,” she said. Sometimes I couldn’t breathe well. I was fatigued. You’re worrying too much, my doctor said. Finally, while I was driving on 101 one day, my heart grabbed at my chest. My breathing tightened. I could barely grip the steering wheel. My mind raced to visions of a crash. I could see the wreckage. My four-year-old daughter, Mimi, was in the back seat. “Off! Off!” I thought. “I have to get off the road.” Thinking of Mimi every moment, I made it to the exit. I punched in the number of

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a friend, who called 911. The paramedics determined I was suffering from panic—a full-blown anxiety attack at 60 miles an hour. My wonderful friends came. One took Mimi; the other took me.

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Once she got me home, my friend called my doctor. The doctor was busy and could only see me after 5 o’clock. So, I waited, only to have her tell me, once again, that I was stressing out. A lymphoma diagnosis takes a long time to confirm, she said. I would have to learn to wait. I could not. I told her I had been looking on the Internet—something doctors hate to hear— and found a nearby hospital that specialized in lymphomas. Against her advice, I went. Just like that, it was confirmed. I had an early stage of cutaneous T-cell lymphoma. It begins in the lymph system and appears first on the skin as a rash. Later, it can affect the lymph nodes, blood and organs. It grows slow-

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ly, is inoperable and can’t be cured. Only about 1,000 Americans are diagnosed with it each year. Most such people are first incorrectly diagnosed for years. I began an 18-month chemotherapy trial at the hospital, and I realized I couldn’t fight this disease with my current doctor. I needed an in-

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volved medical partner, not a disinterested clinician. I asked around. Two people I trust were effusive about one particular physician. I was determined she would be mine. I told her office receptionist that my doctor said I must see her. “Well,” said the receptionist, “if your doctor said that, then you have to see her.” Suddenly, simply, I had a new doctor. She is bright, she listens, she empathiz es. She’s recommended specialists, all of whom have been exceptional. She suggested a psychiatrist to deal with the emotional aspects of cancer. For the first time in years, I feel somewhat in control of my future— no matter how uncertain it might be. I’m writing again, my humorous persona is back and I’m fulfilling a teenage fantasy— with a guitar. “Acoustic, maybe? ” my husband suggested. “No, hon, it’s been a hard year,” I said. “E lectric. I need to rock out.” Today, I take my Stratocaster to lessons,

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sandwiched between a 13-year-old boy before me and a 16-year-old girl after me. I’m older than their mothers. I don’t care. I can play RE M’s “Man on the Moon”! Lately I’ve also been considering something else: laser resurfacing and Botox. After all, this is Marin.

How to Find a Good Doctor 1. Ask your wealthiest friend whom she sees. If the practice is closed, ask your friend to call on your behalf. 2.If the practice is still closed, inquire if there’s a waiting list, get your name on it and ask anyone you know in the medical ﬁeld to make a courtesy call for you. 3. Ask doctors whom they see. 4. When you get a referral, ask why the doctor is good. Ask for speciﬁcs. 5. Use your instincts. Don’t worry about hurt feelings. Worry about who can make you well.

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PLAY

Learning on the Fly FLY FISHING FOR TROUT IS A LIFELONG CHALLENGE BY BRUCE RASKIN PHOTOS R. VALENTINE ATKINSON E very sport has its quintessential season, and for many fly fishers, fall is the favorite— a time of year when less-than-hard-core anglers have already hung up their waders till next spring, leaving rivers and streams blissfully quiet, devoid of human traffic. As foliage turns to bold shades of gold and crimson, fly fishers begin scanning the air for equally brilliant-colored insects— the Blue-Winged O live and Mahogany Dun mayflies that start hatching in profusion, carpeting the river’s surface and driving big trout to distraction. Up come the fish, sipping in these tiny morsels as if snatching hors d’oeuvres off a cocktail tray. The beauty of trout rivers and their environs is just one aspect of fly fishing that draws men and women to the sport. There’s also the incredible variety of fish and fishing venues, the opportunity for exotic travel and, perhaps the biggest draw of all, the ongoing learning experience and challenge of trying to outwit a trout. “I first took up fly-fishing 15 years ago, and the first thing I thought was, ‘ I wish I’d started as a kid,’” says Bob Rosenberg, a recently retired endodontist from Kentfield. But that hasn’t discouraged him, not for a minute. “Learning to cast is just the first step,” he says. “The best thing about fly-fishing is ascending to higher skill levels in various aspects of the sport— and getting to the highest levels does take time and experience.” And yet “unlike with so many sports we play as we get older, where we can’t jump as high and run as fast, diminishing physical skills aren’t really a factor in fly-fishing…

you just get better and better.”

Rosenberg now spends his summers in Idaho on the Henry’s Fork of the Snake River, one of the most revered— and demanding— fly-fishing spots in the country. Lately, in winter he and his wife, Susan, have traveled to New Z ealand, where he stalks huge trout in crystal-clear water, in rivers where most anglers are helpless without a professional guide.

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Learning Curve L ocal fly-fishing classes cover everything from fly casting tying to rod building and entomology (the study of insects). Mount Tamalpais Fly Fishers (mttamflyfishers. org) meets at Town C enter C orte M adera the fourth Tuesday of every month, and membership is open to anyone. The club organiz es six or seven fishing trips a year and offers classes in casting, rod building and other related skills. Western Sport Shop has fly-fishing gear as well as clinics and classes for nominal fees, including F ly F ishing 101; for specifics, call 415.456.5454. Larry Lack provides guiding and instruction in all aspects of fly-fishing. 415.8 8 3.5363 California Fly Shop, in San C arlos, stocks a full range of equipment; holds classes in casting, fly tying, entomology and more; and offers private casting classes and hosted fishing trips. 650.508 .07 27 Orvis of San Francisco P alo A lto and San J ose carries fly-fishing gear and will refer anglers to O rvisendorsed lodges and outfitters. The stores have a set class schedule M ay through O ctober along with classes by request the rest of the year. 415.392.1600 Fly-ﬁshing on Hat Creek in Northern California MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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Get in Gear Shops that rent rods, reels and waders are hard to find; you’ll most likely need to purchase these, along with a fly line and other items like flies, leaders, and so forth. The cost to get started will run approximately $600 to $1,900 depending on the quality of the gear. The cost breakdown: Rod: $50–$600 Reel: $50–$300 Fly line: $50 Waders and wading boots: $150–$450 Fishing vest: $100 Miscellaneous items (tippet material, nippers): $200–$400

Fall River in Northern California

“We learned by

But most fly fishers start closer to home. “I’d say a

Baker has all budding fly fishers watch the DVD entitled

good 80 percent of our beginning customers are inter-

Bugs of the Underworld: the Natural History of Aquatic

trial and error...

ested in fishing local trout waters,” says Rickey Baker,

Insects. “Trout fishing is all about bugs,” says Baker,

head of the fly-fishing department at Western Sport

“and once you get a fuller understanding of that, the

Shop in San Rafael and Santa Rosa. Fortunately, some

more effective a fly fisher you become.”

and the equip-

of the finest trout fishing waters in California are just a

Mill Valley resident J ohn McCosker, former direc-

few hours’ drive from Marin. Larry Lack, a Novato fly-

tor of the Steinhart Aquarium and now senior scientist

fishing guide and instructor, touts the fishing opportu-

at the California Academy of Sciences, started ascend-

nities on the North Fork of the Yuba River, the Upper

ing the learning curve as a kid growing up in Southern

Sacramento, Putah Creek, the Stanislaus, Fall River and

California. By age 12 he was accompanying his father

Thrifty Drugs and

Hat Creek. “When working with beginners,” he says, “I

on fly-fishing trips to the High Sierra. “We learned by

poorly tied com-

like teaching on the water rather than in a room. I find

trial and error,” says McCosker, now an accomplished

that retention is much greater if you apply the skills as

flytier and fly fisherman. “And the equipment— a cheap

you learn them.”

five-dollar bamboo rod from Thrifty Drugs and poorly

ment—a cheap five-dollar bamboo rod from

mercial flies—

tied commercial flies— didn’t make things easy.”

didn’t make

Neophytes today have a distinct advantage,

”

levels) , says beginners shouldn’t put pressure on

McCosker says, thanks in part to Selective Trout, a

themselves to become instant experts. “If they make

book published in the early ’70s that shed new light

a conscious effort, most fly fishers can be members of

on the subtleties of the sport and provided important

the ‘ 5 to 95’ group in just five years,” he says. In other

insights into what trout are eating and when. That,

words, “they’ll be among the 5 percent of fly fishers

combined with remarkable improvements in fly-fish-

who catch 95 percent of the trout.”

ing technology— graphite rods, lightweight reels, slick

things easy.

118

Lack, who’s also a board member of the Mount Tamalpais Fly Fishers ( about 50 members of all skill

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OCTOBER 2007

Many fledgling fly fishers think once they’ve learned

fly lines, more sophisticated fly patterns— plus today’s

to cast a fly rod, they’ll begin catching fish at will. But

wealth of books, videos, magaz ines, and websites on

casting is just the first step in the learning process.

the subject and wide array of experienced guides,

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means “you can quickly jump-start your fishing without paying years of dues.” Typically, fly anglers begin by heading out

Firm thighs. Lifted seats. Flat abs.

on their own or with an experienced friend, but there’s a lot to be said for taking a class or two first. Fly Fishing 101 at Western Sport Shop covers such basics as understanding fly tackle, artificial flies and their uses, casting a fly rod and lots more. For those who know they want to jump in with both feet, as it were, fly-tying classes abound at area shops. Equally valuable is spending a day or two on the water with an experience guide—not inexpensive at $375 a day for you and a companion plus a $70 to $80 tip, but if you view it as both instruction and a fishing trip, it’s money well spent. Although many beginners measure their success by number of fish caught, those who’ve been at it a while make a distinction between fishing and catching. Rather than catching dozens of fish, Bob Rosenberg would rather be out on the water all day learning more about what makes a trout want to take his imitation fly. Of course, “there are more than a few days in any

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given season when I’d like to hook at least one fish,” he admits. Unlike sports such as golf, fly-fishing doesn’t allow you to handicap yourself. “Every day of

SANDRA BIRD DESIGNS

fishing is different from the last,” McCosker says. “The wind may be howling, causing insects to blow off the water and trout to lay low, or today’s weather and conditions may be identical to those of last week when trout took your fly with wild abandon, but today they totally ignore you.” It’s that uncertainty that keeps fly-fishing interesting, plus the great challenge of figuring out why yesterday’s solution isn’t working today. Still, there are those days when you wade into the water and everything falls into place—

A DESIGN BUILD FIRM

you’ve located a big trout, watched it come regularly and methodically to the surface to feed, realized that it’s gulping emerging mayflies, and you say, “Aha! I’ve got it.” And next thing you know, you’re into a 20-inch trout that goes airborne—brazenly showing off the crimson and

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119

LO O K I NG BACK

Sam Francis

The internationally acclaimed abstract expressionist spent his last days in West Marin

“THERE ISN’T AN ART MUSEUM IN THE WORLD WHERE SAM FRANCIS ISN’T PART OF THE COLLECTION,” says Bob Green, partner with Charlotte Bernstrom in Mill Valley’s Robert Green Fine Arts. “He’s in the Louvre, New York’s Museum of Modern Art, and San Francisco’s Museum of Modern Art. Sam ranks with Jackson Pollock, Mark Rothko and Willem de Kooning as one of the world’s premier abstract expressionists.” ABOVE: A portrait of Sam Francis in his studio in 1992 by famed Bay Area photographer Leo

Holub; AT LEFT: Francis with wife Margaret Smith Francis and young son Augustus in Inverness in 1987. OPPOSITE PAGE: The artist’s paint-splattered work space.

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PHOTO ABOV E: LEO HO LUB, C OURTESY OF S MITH AND ER SEN NO RTH ; PH OTO AT LEF T: H E L E N N E STO R , CO U RT E SY O F S A M U E L L . F RA N CI S F O U N DAT I O N; O PPOSI T E : K . KU MA K IRI

BY JIM WOOD

DISAPPEARING SCREENS FOR DOORS & WINDOWS

Samuel Lewis Francis was born in San

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71 years, he painted and exhibited in New York, Paris, Berlin, Tokyo, Los Angeles and oth-

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er art capitals of the world. He spent his last six years mostly in West Marin, where is buried. His easily overlooked gravesite is to the

Decoration

Design

Construction

left just after you enter the Olema Cemetery, on Highway 1. Those who knew him say Francis was cherub like in appearance—short, round and white-haired, with sparkling blue eyes set in a rosy face. “Yet he was a powerful man,” says Green, “as big as Dallas.” Many saw him as a living contradiction. He was a true aesthete, yet hardly a starving artist, amassing a small fortune through sales of his paintings and prints. He concentrated intently while creating his art, yet also pursued interests in real estate, alternative energy, holistic health care, Zen Buddhism and, in his later years, mountain biking. A loyal and gentle friend, he was not given to commitment—he married five times and was by some accounts a less-than-attentive father to his four children. Generally speaking, abstract expressionism is a way of conveying emotion and passion through color and form. “Rebellious,” “anarchic,” “idiosyncratic,” even “nihilistic” are ad-

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jectives used to describe it. Following World War II, abstract expressionism was the first specifically American movement to achieve worldwide influence, and Francis was among its early disciples. “Color is light on fire,” he once said. Later, in an unpublished poem, he wrote, “Color is a pattern that plays across the membrane of the mind.” In 1941, Francis enrolled at UC Berkeley but left school to become a pilot in the Army Air Corps. He suffered a debilitating back injury in a crash while on a training mission in Colorado. His interest in art grew during years of rehabilitation in veterans’ hospitals. By 1950, with a B.A. in studio art and a master’s in art history, Francis was married, living at the Hotel de Seine in Paris and launching an internationally acclaimed career that would last an incredible 45 years. Francis’s most famous works are murals. Big Red, 10 feet by 6 feet, was commissioned by David Rockefeller in 1953 and hangs in the Chase Manhattan Bank headquarters in New York City. Untitled Triptych, completed in 1982 and measuring 36 feet by 9 feet, is displayed in

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the United Airlines terminal at San Francisco International Airport. Following his birth in San Mateo, Francis’s affection for the Bay Area was continuous. “As a kid, Sam spent time hiking in Inverness and fishing on Tomales Bay,” says Krauth Brand, a builder, sculptor and designer in Point Reyes Station. At various times in his career he either

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worked at a studio in San Leandro or exhibited at a gallery in Palo Alto; in the late 70s he began spending time in West Marin, working with Point Reyes resident George Wagner in the development of wind turbines. In 1978, Brand met Francis at one of the artist’s studios in Venice, California, and moved north a decade later. “Anything Sam needed done, whether it was for his studio, home, even his windmill business, I would do it,” says Brand, who describes Francis as “kind of a dreamer, not a reality guy.” For example, he recalls, Francis bought the three-story Foresters Hall apartment building

WWW.MARINORTHOPEDICS.COM . 415.492.1600 4000 CIVIC CENTER DRIVE, SUITE 205, SAN RAFAEL, CA 94903

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on Mesa Road in Point Reyes Station, then decided the ground-floor ceiling was too low for

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an art studio. “He agonized and agonized over it,” Brand says. “Then one day I said, ‘Let’s just rip out the second floor.’ Sam thought that was a great solution, and the next day we did it.” In 1988, Francis leased the former Bank of America building on Main Street in Point Reyes Station, and again Brand was charged with converting it into a studio. “It already had airy 20-foot ceilings,” says Brand. “We decided all it needed was level plywood over the bumpy tile flooring that all those old banks had.” That flooring is well remembered by the building’s current owner, Richard Kirschman, a 35-year resident of Dogtown and Francis’s landlord in the late 1980s. “Because his canvases were so large, Sam, like Jackson Pollock, did most of his painting on the floor,” Kirschman says, “and he’d just throw paint at the canvas, much of it winding up on the plywood.” Francis was diagnosed with prostate cancer in 1994; when his health began to decline, he moved out of the bank building. Kirschman contacted UC Berkeley’s art department and several local galleries to see if the floor couldn’t be cut up and its pieces sold to benefit an art cause. “It was very colorful,” says Kirschman. “But unfortunately, there were no takers.” As a cancer patient Francis refused chemotherapy and surgery, the only treatments available at the time, fearing loss of sexual vitality. “That’s when he really got into mountain biking, organic dieting and acupuncture,” says Brand. By fall of that year his condition had significantly worsened, and in a final burst of energy he completed an astounding 145 small paintings (due to a fall, the right-handed Francis painted them all with his left hand) in Southern California before heading back to West Marin for a last round of biking, organic nutrition and acupuncture. Following a trip to Mexico seeking a holistic cure for his cancer, Francis died at St. John’s Hospital in Santa Monica on November 4, 1994.

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“Toward the end, he’d listen to Patsy Cline LPs all day,” Brand says. “What I remember most was hearing, ‘I Fall to Pieces.’ He was a really a great guy; we were like brothers. I

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miss him still.”

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CA LE NDAR

OCTOBER ARTS & EVENTS GUIDE

Huckabay McAllister and Dance Continuum SF, Oct 12-14

THEATER Thru October 21 Blithe Spirit A comfy country home is shaken when a deceased dinner guest takes up residency and embarks on a sinister scheme to win back her husband’s love. Ross Valley Players (Ross). 415.456.9555, rossvalleyplayers.org

5 The Shaolin Warriors In a new fully choreographed theatrical production, the Shaolin Warriors bring the remarkable skill, stunning movement and spectacular imagery of Kung Fu to stages throughout the world. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

9—November 18 The Color Purple The soul-stirring musical is based on the classic Pulitzer Prize—winning novel by Alice Walker and the ﬁlm by Steven Spielberg. It features the inspiring story of a woman named Celie who ﬁnds the strength to triumph over adversity. Set to the music of blues, gospel and jazz. Orpheum Theatre (SF). 415.512.7770, shnsf.com 124

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10—28 Love Song Marin Theatre Company’s West Coast premiere of this offbeat comedy written by John Kolvenbach and directed by Jasson Minadakis. Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). 415.388.5208, marintheatre.org

Venus) and Warren Farrell (Why Men Are The Way They Are) as they dig beneath the surface of the two different cultures of men and women. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

MUSIC 27 Jeff Dunham: Spark of Insanity The ventriloquist and stand-up comedian has performed on Comedy Central Presents and The Late Show With David Letterman. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

Thru 12 Tannhäuser Irresistible impulses, the lure of pleasure and the yearning for spiritual redemption; all battle for one man’s soul in Wagner’s tale of tragedy and transcendence. San Francisco Opera (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com

COMEDY 5 Marin Brewing Company Presents: Tuesdays Mark Pitta & Friends You’ll have to see the show to ﬁnd out who’s performing but it’s worth getting a chance to watch bigname headliners and up-and-coming comics work on new material. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

17 Men, Women, Love and Chaos Join John Gray (Men are from Mars, Women are from

Bautista The seven-person band fuses Latin, funk and rock into its own sophisticated and energetic style. Marin Brewing Company (Larkspur). 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com

5—24 Appomattox This world premiere portrays the day General Lee surrendered to General Grant, in Appomattox Courthouse, Virginia. San Francisco Opera (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

6 Terry Savastano An evening of pop, Irish, tropical rhythms, soft romantic ballads, blues and rock and roll. Marin Brewing Company (Larkspur). 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com 6 An Evening with Petty Theft This Bay Area rock band performs the great songs by Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers. Marin Brewing Company (Larkspur). 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com

21 Pianist Lisa Spector The award-winning classical pianist in concert. The Dance Palace (Point Reyes Station). 415.663.1075, dancepalace.org

25 Urban Slack at Tam Cellars Solo guitar player James Regan performs new age jazz with an urban appeal. Tam Cellars (Larkspur). 415.461.9463, tamcellars.com

21 Starduster Sundays Join hosts Jan Wahl and Cynthia Glinka along with the Starduster Orchestra for a night of dancing to the sounds of the big band era. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

25 Noonan’s Winemaker’s Dinner Series Taste Girard Napa Valley wines and new releases alongside a dinner made to enhance the ﬂavors of each wine. Noonan’s Bar and Grill (Larkspur). 415.464.8711, nooonansbarandgrill.com

7 Michael LaMaccia Brazilian, jazz, African, Latin, classical and pop music styles with Michael LaMaccia. Marin Brewing Company (Larkspur). 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com

7 & 9 The Battleship Potemkin The Marin Symphony brings a live orchestral score to this screening of the 1925 silent ﬁlm classic. Marin Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.479.8100, marinsymphony.org 10—18 Marin Theatre Company Presents Found Objects Experience and participate in the development of a pre-world-premiere Marin Theatre Company commission. Bring your imagination: the workshop production will have a four-week rehearsal and actors will have minimal scenery and costumes. Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). 415.388.5208, marintheatre.org

12 Pocket Change Marin funk/rock party band Pocket Change performs a variety of popular songs from the late ’70s to ’90s. Marin Brewing Company (Larkspur). 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com

14 David Correa & Cascada Don’t miss this exuberant blend of nuevo ﬂamenco, Latinfolk, Afro-Cuban and Middle Eastern inﬂuenced melodies.Marin Brewing Company (Larkspur). 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com 19 Jerry Hannan and the Brigade Local singer-songwriter Hannan plays in Marin. Marin Brewing Company (Larkspur). 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com

20 Angels, Demons & Dreamers An evening of adaptations from ﬁve supernatural Japanese Noh plays, created and performed by Laura Jorgensen and Fred Curchack.The Dance Palace (Point Reyes Station). 415.663.1075, dancepalace.org MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Susan Goldsmith at Robert Mondavi Winery THIS FALL A TOUCH OF MARIN comes to the Napa Valley as Robert Mondavi Winery presents an exhibition of paintings by San Rafael artist Susan Goldsmith. Showcased as part of the winery’s long-running art exhibition program, initiated by Margrit Biever Mondavi, the selection includes roughly two dozen recent works by Goldsmith in the winery’s famed Vineyard Room. Goldsmith’s paintings draw on her profound love for Marin’s natural settings, suggesting dappled sunlight passing through layers of tree limbs and leaves. “I was originally inspired by a redwood grove on some property in Ross, where I was a caretaker,” says the artist, who has been a Marin resident for almost 30 years. Her process is unique. Though she considers herself a painter, she begins each piece with one of her own photographs—not as a pictorial guide, but as the first layer of the composition. She ultimately obscures the photo, sometimes entirely, by applying dozens of layers of iridescent paints and metallic powders, using gloved fingers as her tools instead of brushes. “Working like this is a very primal thing,” she says, noting a contrast between her art practice and her career as a digital artist for George Lucas’s Industrial Light and Magic. Her film work is highly technical, requiring exacting attention to detail, but the paintings are much freer, allowing her to create abstract, impressionistic fields of color. “I like the way light shimmers through trees. I like the movement,” Goldsmith says, explaining that the layers of iridescent paints and metallic powders lend a similar sense of movement to her paintings, generating the appearance of different colors from different angles. Goldsmith’s works will be on view in the Vineyard Room beginning October 7 and continuing through November. Admission to the exhibition is free, but visitors are encouraged to call the winery in advance to ensure no private events are scheduled in the exhibition space the day of their visit. Robert Mondavi Winery, Highway 29, Oakville, 707.968.2200, robertmondaviwinery. com; 10–5 daily

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25 & 26 Walls of Sound Working with custom-made ﬁlmstrips and an elaborate array of modiﬁed projectors, the Brooklynbased Bruce McClure creates immersive sound and light experiences that go beyond the merely cinematic. Exploratorium (SF). 415.561.0377, exploratorium.edu

26 Music From the Crooked Road Winding for over 200 miles across the mountains, ridges and valleys of southwestern Virginia, the Crooked Road passes through some of the most musical places on earth. Hear the sounds from this area in this special performance in Marin. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

28 Peter Frampton The ’70s arena star will be rocking Marin with classics like “Baby, I Love Your Way” and “Do You Feel Like We Do.” Marin Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

DANCE 12-14 Huckabay McAllister and Dance Continuum SF An evening of contemporary dance choreographed by Jenny McAllister and others. Counterpulse (SF). 415.435.7552, counterpulse.org

GALLERIES MARIN Aperture f64 Gallery Waters Edge Five black-and-white photographers including, Paul Caponigao and Brad Cole portray the mystical qualities of water, tides, and coasts; thru November 3. 635 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo. 415.482.0480 Art Abloom The gallery specializes in offering a full-spectrum art experience in a creative and noncompetitive environment. 735 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.256.1112, artabloom.com

27 & November 3 Magic Flute For Families This condensed version of Mozart’s ﬁnal masterpiece, sung in English, is a perfect introduction for children to the magic of opera. San Francisco Opera (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com

28 Jules Broussard and Band Bring out the family for a Jules Broussard community social and dance party. 142 Throckmorton

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20—28 Hawaiian Dance A performance of O‘ahu: Confessions of an Island with hula from the award-winning, San Franciscobased dance troupe Na Lei Hulu. The group’s performaces are a blend of traditional and contemporary forms of hula as a living and evolving art form. Palace of Fine Arts Theatre (SF). 415.392.4400, cityboxofﬁce.com

Artisan Art Gallery All Things Great and Small Size does matter in this juried show featuring large works and small works, thru October 2. Urban Landscapes/Underscapes: Urban Spaces Seen, Percieved and Explored This show allows artists to explore their relationships with the cities that surround them, October. 853 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.460.5208, artisansartgallery.org

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Claudia Chapline Gallery Mixed Media Work by Bay Area artist and California Funk movement pioneer Roy Forest and Claudia Chapline, October 12—November 30. 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach. 415.868.2308, cchapline.com Edith Caldwell Gallery Porcelain Objects by Belgian teacher, ceramist and designer Piet Stockmans and still life paintings by John Gibson and local Philip Michelson, thru October. 819 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.331.5003, edithcaldwell.com Falkirk Cultural Center Photographic Narratives A survey of contemporary photography by Ann Baldwin, Lawrie Brown and others, thru December 29. 1408 Mission Ave, San Rafael. 415.485.3438, falkirkculturalcenter.org

Gallery Bergelli New work by Bay Area artist Sanjay Vora, thru October. 483 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.945.9454, gallerybergelli.com

Robert Green Fine Arts Paintings from the ’40s and ’50s by artist John Grillow, thru October. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgﬁnearts.com

Gallery Route One New Works in Wax Work by Inverness artist Hannah Mott thru October 21. 11101 Highway One, Point Reyes Station. 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org

Sam the Butcher Reconstructions Work by Bryce Vinokurov, thru November. 19 Ross Common, Ross. 415.902.1019, samthebutchergallery.com

Marin Society of Artists The group’s 80th annual show is on display with work by member artists, thru October 28. 30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Ross. 415.454.9561, marinsocietyofartists.org

Studio 333 Ongoing Work. 333A Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.8272, studio333.info

O’Hanlon Center for the Arts ArtAble This exhibit celebrates Americans with disabilities month, thru October. Don’t miss a special sneak-preview screening of Shameless: The Art of Disability with Mill Valley’s David Roche, October 12. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org Robert Beck Gallery Ongoing Work. 222 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.456.7898

The Art Bar Discover paintings, sculpture and glass works or use the gallery’s consulting service to acquire speciﬁc art. Work by visiting artist Kathleen Dunne, thru October. 34 Main St, Tiburon. 415.435.3999, artbar.us The Painters Place Original paintings and prints by gallery artists including Stan Painter, Christin Coy, Dan Cooper, Barbara Lawrence, Barbara Banthien, Charlotte Britton and Krystal Allen, thru October. 1139 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.461.0351, thepaintersplace.com

Sanjay Vora, Hero (On the Roof) 27" x 36"oil, acrylic, pencil and paper on canvas

Art Works Downtown Day of the Dead Invitational Sharon Christovic of the Folk Art Gallery and Carol Durham of Art Works Downtown curate this exhibit, October 11—December 7. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119, artworksdowntown.org

Contemporary, Original Paintings and Sculptures

483 Magnolia Avenue, Larkspur, CA 94939 (415) 945-9454 www.gallerybergelli.com

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SAN FRANCISCO ArtHaus Cocktails & Conversations New work by Carol Massa and a group show featuring works by Astrid, Jess Johnston and Chris Schiabo, October 26—Deccember 30. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com Berggruen Gallery Paintings and sculpture by Florida artist Enrique Martinez Celaya, thru November 3. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com Caldwell Snyder Gallery Paintings by Cole Morgan, thru October 15. Jose Villalobos, October 16—31. 341 Sutter St, 415.392.2299, caldwellsnyder.com Elins Eagles Smith Gallery New work by Bob Nugent, October 4—30. 49 Geary St, Ste 520, 415.981.1080, eesgallery.com Fraenkel Gallery Something Was There: Early Works by Diane Arbus Little-known work from 1958 to 1962 that is believed to be the cornerstone for Arbus’s later more famous pieces, thru October 27. 3049 Geary St, 415.981.2661, fraenkelgallery.com Frey Norris Gallery Stories for Bad Children A 21st-century look into the notion of what it means to be bad in the mind of a child by artists Kate Tedman and Eric Siemens, otherwise known as Kate Eric. The piece is intended to scare kids straight and resonate with adulthood fears of the unknown, thru October 15. 456 Geary St, 415.346.7812, freynorris.com Gallery Paule Anglim Work by Tom Marioni and Masashi Matsumoto, October 3—October 27. 14 Geary St, 415.433.2710, gallerypauleanglim.com

Gregory Lind Gallery The Beginning Period, The Middle Period, The End Period Work by Chris Duncan, who pursues the visible threads between nature, science and spirituality; thru October 13. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com Hackett-Freedman Gallery Aparchai Recent still life paintings by local artist David Ligare. The artist’s renderings are of simple offerings such as bread, wine and ﬁgs, which are placed in an altar-like setting and bathed in the late-afternoon light, thru October 27. 250 Sutter St, 415.362.7152, hackettfreedman.com Hang Art and Hang Art Annex Surface Tension Work by Josh Keyes, thru October. Paperworks Art by Jeff Dikio, David Fullerton, Jeffrey Hantman, Paul Lorenz, Carolyn Meyer, Heather Patterson, Eric Saxby and Tim Yankosky, thru October. 556 & 567 Sutter St, 415.434.4264, hangart.com Jack Hanley Gallery Work by Will Rogan, October 4—November 3. 395/389 Valencia St, 415.522.1623, jackhanley.com John Pence Gallery Steven Levin and Nicholas Raynolds, thru October 6. 750 Post St, 415.441.1138, johnpence.com Lighthouse for the Blind Insights This juried art exhibition features works by artists who are blind or visually impaired. The show emphasizes the diverse range of how people express themselves and how they see, thru December 7. 25 Van Ness Ave, 415.431.1481, lighthouse-sf.org Linda Saytes Ongoing work. Hunters Point Shipyard, Bldg 101, Studio 2120, 415.824.5756, saytesart.com

more, thru November 3. 718 Columbus Ave, 415.434.3055, paulthiebaudgallery.com Rena Bransten Gallery Paintings and works on paper by Bay Area artist John Bankston, who is known for his representations of masculinity, thru October 13. 77 Geary St, 415.982.3292, renabranstengallery.com SF Camerawork There is Always a Machine Between Us An interactive and evolving exhibit of work by cultural producers around the world who use the Internet as source and inspiration, thru November 17. 657 Mission St, 415.512.2020, sfcamerawork.org

MUSEUMS MARIN Bolinas Museum Work by photographer Harry Williams, thru November 11. Bolinas Farm Day, October 27. Indian Summer ﬁlms from India along with a discussion of the exhibits with the curators and classical Indian music and food, October 12 & 13 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org Marin History Museum Time to Play Toys from years past are on display in this new exhibit, thru October 12 (San Rafael). 415.454.8538, marinhistory.org Marin Museum of the American Indian Sacred Rock Art of California: A Spectacular Diversity California has some of the most diverse rock art in the world. Pigments will be on display along with photographs of work that is believed to be over 8,000 years old, thru October (Novato). 415.897.4064, marinindian.com

BAY AREA George Krevsky Gallery Michael Kovner: New York Paintings The son of famed poet and political activist Abba Kovner, Michael Kovner was inspired by his relationship with the land as a result of walking amid the farmland of his childhood home. Later, while training in a helicopter as part of a select unit of the Israeli Army, he observed the land from a bird’s-eye view, thru October 27. 77 Geary, (San Francisco). 415.397.9748, georgekrevskygallery.com

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Meyerovich Gallery Sculpture by Guy Dill, thru October. 251 Post St, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com Newmark Gallery Shade New works by Ilan Laks, October 2—October 27. 251 Post St, Ste 412, 415.392.3692, newmarkgallery.com Paul Thiebaud Recent paintings by artist David Fertig, who is known for his renditions of the Napoleonic wars. His work explores battles at sea, views of European cities and

Asian Art Museum Stylized Sculpture: Contemporary Japanese Fashion from the Kyoto Costume Institute Conceived by acclaimed artist Hiroshi Sugimoto, this exhibition spotlights the sculptural essence of contemporary Japanese fashion-Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and others. On view are 21 innovative creations and four never-before-seen black-and-white photographs by Sugimoto, October 12—January 6 (SF). 415.581.3500, asianart.org

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

THE MARIN SYMPHONY’S 55TH SUBSCRIPTION SEASON

Season of the Silver Screen

Alasdair Neale

P RO G R A M O N E

Potemkin

October 7 & 9, 2007, 7:30pm, Marin Center, San Rafael Alasdair Neale, conductor Shostakovich/Eisenstein The Battleship Potemkin The Battleship Potemkin

Sergei Eisenstein’s brilliant 1925 black-and-white silent film classic depicts with gripping emotional intensity the 1905 revolt that incited the Russian Revolution. The Marin Symphony and the Mill Valley Film Festival up the dramatic ante even further by presenting this film with live orchestral score by Dmitri Shostakovich, Alasdair Neale conducting. “The amazing thing is how accurately the symphonic passages mirror the scenes in Potemkin and strengthen them” (Chicago Tribune).

Sponsored by Bank of America, Bon Air Center and Marin Magazine

P RO G R A M T WO Dmitri Shostakovich

TheRed Violin

November 4 & 6, 2007, 7:30pm, Marin Center, San Rafael Alasdair Neale, conductor • Elizabeth Pitcairn, violin Beethoven Overture to Leonore No. 3 Mendelssohn Violin Concerto Brahms Symphony No. 2

Ms. Pitcairn performs on the legendary 1720 “Red” Mendelssohn Stradivarius that helped inspire the Academy Award-winning film, The Red Violin.

Sponsored by Westamerica Bank, Brayton Purcell LLP and Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, with guest artist sponsored by John & Maria Pitcairn Elizabeth Pitcairn

SCREENING OF THE FILM THE RED VIOLIN Thursday, November 1, 2007, 7pm, Rafael Film Center, San Rafael Screening of the film, The Red Violin, in conversation with acclaimed violin virtuoso Elizabeth Pitcairn. MSA subscribers and CFI members $23. Non-subscribers and non-members $25. Tickets at 415.479.8100

E L I Z A B E T H P I T C A I R N “AT H O M E ” Friday, November 2, 2007, 6-9pm A rare chance to experience violin virtuoso Elizabeth Pitcairn in concert and conversation in the privacy of a luxurious Marin home. Solo performance plus reception featuring fine wines and hors d’oeuvres. $100 per person. Net proceeds to benefit the Marin Symphony. Capacity extremely limited. Call 415.479.8100 now to reserve your seat.

Single concert tickets $27-$65 (students half price) at 415.499.6800 For flexible, discounted subscriptions, call 415.479.8100 www.marinsymphony.org Sergei Eisenstein

de Young Nan Kempner: American Chic Nearly 75 of the thousands of ensembles and accessories Kempner possessed are on display including more than 25 garments that are exclusive to the de Young exhibition, thru November 11 (SF). 415.863.3330, thinker.org Legion of Honor Modern sculptor Henry Moore is represented in two galleries by a large tapestry, prints, drawings, and maquettes from the collection of Leonard and Sophie Davis, thru October 7 (SF). 415.863.3330, legionofhonor.org

to the pubic. Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito). 415.339.3954, baykidsmuseum.org

20 & 21 Goblin Jamboree Fundraiser Children and their families are invited to come in costume and explore the Bay Area Discovery Museum, transformed into a haunted wonderland complete with games, attractions, live entertainment and special 20th-anniversary treats. Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, baykidsmuseum.org

23 Halloween Stories Neshama Franklin Museum of Craft & Folk Art Evolution of the Ukulele: The story of Hawaii’s Jumping Flea Explore the history of this popular instrument, thru October 21 (SF). 415.227.4888, mocfa.org

will present a program of Halloween tales for little ones. The Dance Palace (Point Reyes Station). 415.663.1075, dancepalace.org

Plaza Arts Center RunningFence Recycled, A Piece of Art History Fine ﬁber-artworks created by California artists out of the rare, historic panels of Christo and JeanneClaude’s Running Fence of 1976. Featured artists include Deborah Alastra, Regula Allenspach Weill, Liz Berg, Kay Carlson, Claudia Chapline, Scott Cilmi and others, thru October 15 (Healdsburg). 707.431.1970, plazaartscenter.org

BAY AREA 20 Physics of Toys Take to the air with things that ﬂy, glide and soar. We’ll make air-powered rockets, kites, gliders, and hand-copters. Take off with Physics of Toys, and take home what you make. Exploratorium (SF). 415.561.0360, exploratorium.edu

29 Halloween Heroes Trick-or-treaters SFMOMA Rebels with a Cause: The Cinema of East Germany This retrospective of East German cinema is said to be the most comprehensive ever screened in the United States. The ﬁlms will be screened in new 35mm prints with English subtitles, thru October 27 (SF). 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org

are in for a night of delights at this indoor Halloween wonderland. Attendees will meet professional athletes from around the bay and team mascots during this annual event to beneﬁt the junior Giants baseball program. Exploratorium (SF). 650.321.4142, wenderweis.org

FAMILIES/KIDS

EVENTS

MARIN

Tuesdays and Thursdays Doodlebug Knitting Night Learn the basics of crocheting or felting, expand basic knowledge and try something new with fellow enthusiasts. Doodlebug (San Anselmo). 415.456.5989, doodlebugmarin.com

Thru 9 Joshua’s Journey: A Black Cowboy Rides the Chisholm Trail Attendees will be introduced to life during the trail drive era as seen through the eyes of a 16-year-old boy. Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, baykidsmuseum.org

7 Breakfast With Clifford Don’t forget the camera when the kids meet the big red dog at this exciting breakfast. After, tour the Clifford exhibit before the museum opens 130

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Thru October 6 Film Night in the Park The annual cinematic event is back. Catch a flick outdoors on the new wide screen. Various parks (SF/Marin). 415.453.4333, filmnight.org Thru November 4 Chomp! San Francisco’s Conservatory of Flowers becomes a Little Shop of Horticultural Horrors with an exhibition of carnivorous plants. Conservatory of Flowers (SF). 415.666.7001, conservatoryofflowers.org Thru 7 Marin Designers Showcase Marin home designers show off their talents in a historical 1906 San Rafael Dominican home. Proceeds benefit the Center for Volunteer and Nonprofit Leadership. 415.479.5691, marindesignersshowcase.com 3 Celebrating H2O: Headwaters to Ocean Enjoy decadent food and wine, enticing silent auctions, spectacular bay views and special guest speaker Lieutenant Governor John Garamendi at the Bay Institute’s annual event. Westin St. Francis (SF). 415.506.0150, bay.org 4 & 21 Flu Shots OnSite Wellness, a licensed provider of wellness services nationwide, will provide flu and pneumonia shots for children (with prescriptions) and adults (no prescription needed). Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy (Novato). 415.892.3700, pharmaca.com

4—14 Mill Valley Film Festival This year the festival turns 30 and brings with it new talent showcasing international features, documentaries, shorts and children’s films from around the world. Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center (San Rafael). 415.383.5256, mvff.com 5 Art for Aids This annual live and silent auction benefits one of the nation’s leading AIDS service organizations, the UCSF AIDS Health Project. Bonhams & Butterfields (SF). 415.502.7276, artforaids.org

Thru October Get Ready Classes Marin is launching free disaster preparedness classes throughout the county to help residents care for themselves in the event of a earthquake, ﬂood, ﬁre or other major disaster. Various locations (Marin). 415.485.3131, getreadymarin.org

5 Donati Family Winery at Tam Cellars This small winery in Paicines in San Benito County, will be pouring wines at Tam Cellars. Come enjoy a tasting ﬂight. Tam Cellars (Larkspur). 415.461.9463, tamcellars.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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6 Unmask the Cure Come in costume to

14 Carnival of the Animals & Animals

this beneﬁt gala, which supports the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation. The event will honor Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger with the 2007 Breath of Life Award for making a difference in the lives of those with Cystic Fibrosis. The Palace Hotel (SF). 415.331.0650, cff.org

in the Arts: A Cultural Beneﬁt Join Pets Unlimited for an exhibition and art auction highlighting the work of San Francisco’s most doggedly devoted artists and photographers. Pets Unlimited (SF). 415.775.2573, petsunlimited.org

7 Vincenzo Wine and Food Festival The grounds of St. Vincent’s will be transformed into an Italian-style trattoria, complete with exclusive tastings from premier wineries and superb restaurants and a lively auction led by renowned charity wine auctioneer David Reynolds. Catholic Charities CYO (San Rafael). 415.972.1233, vincenzo.org

13 Gala Dinner Join keynote speaker Senator Barbara Boxer and enjoy Hangar One cocktails, Diego Château wines and music by Chuck Lavaroni’s Swing Society Trio at this beneﬁt to support the Marin County School Volunteers organization. Picklewood Community Center (San Rafael). 415.499.5896, marincountyschoolvolunteers.org

15 Golf for Kids’ Sake Make a difference in the life of a child by participating in this annual golf tournament to support Big Brothers Big Sisters of the North Bay. The event includes four-man, best-ball play, a barbecue lunch and a gourmet dinner featuring chef Elaine Bell. Stonetree Golf Club (Novato). 415.453.3800, ext 229, bbbsnorthbay.org 17 The Marine Mammal Center’s 11th Annual Gala Celebrate and support the center at its annual gala. The black-tie event features an auction for items including exotic and adventure travel. City Hall (San Francisco). 415.289.7335, tmmc.org 21 Take A Step Toward Abuse-Free Relationships Marin Abused Women’s Services

celebrates 30 years of serving Marin victims of domestic violence by holding a rally at Dominican University’s amphitheater followed by a march down Fourth Street in San Rafael. Dominican University (San Rafael). 415.526.2543, maws.org

25—28 San Francisco Fall Antiques Show Nearly 70 notable decorative and fine arts dealers from around the world will be featured at this charity event, which benefits the nonprofit agency Enterprise for High School Students. Speaker Nancy Pelosi will serve as honorary chair of the show. Fort Mason Center (SF). 415.989.9019, sffas.org 26 Plant Recording Studios Anniversary Concert and Gala Steven Seagal and Narada Michael Walden host this 35th anniversary event. Musical guests will include Sly and the Family Stone, War, Blues Traveler and more. Don’t miss the special dessert demonstration and tasting by celebrity chef Joey Altman and a music memorabilia auction. All proceeds benefit the Bridgeway Music Foundation. 2200 Bridgeway (Sausalito). 415.332.6100, plantstudios.com

Nothing Says Elegance Like a

Roman shades create a classic and elegant look to any room. Since 1992, The Roman Shade Company has been the leader in custommade roman shades and window coverings. We’re e x p e r t s Our service, knowledge and expertise are second to none. Our professional designers actually come to your home and offer their design creativity, product expertise and installation knowledge to create the perfect window coverings for your home. If you’re looking for the finest in window coverings, then look no further than the professionals at The Roman Shade Company. Visit our showroom or call 415-621-2777 for estimated pricing and consultation.

Simply elegant San Francisco Design Center | 2 Henry Adams Street, Suite 341 | San Francisco | 415-621-2777 | www.theromanshadecompany.com

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2007 Marin Designers Showcase September 18 – October 7 presented by The Auxiliary of the Center for Volunteer and Nonprofit Leadership of Marin

Country Elegance

26—28 Western Interiors Design and Home Show Shop for some of the ﬁnest in home furnishings from top designers. Learn decorating tips and design trends and don’t miss a special appearance by Kenneth Brown of HGTV’s reDesign. Herbst Pavilion (SF). 323.549.3449, westerninteriorshomeshow.com 27 Headlands Mystery Ball Costumed guests enjoy artist installations, dancing, musicians and food at the transformed headquarters of the Headlands Center for the Arts during their annual Mystery Ball. The event raises money for the Artist in Residence Program. Headlands Center for the Arts (Sausalito). 415.331.2787, ext 26, headlands.org

27 San Francisco Performing and Visual Historical 1906 San Rafael Dominican Home Gift Shop ~ Petite Lunch ~ Lecture Series Meet the Designers: Thursday Evenings, Wine & Hors-d’œuvres 38th Annual Fundraiser Benefiting: The Center for Volunteer and Nonprofit Leadership of Marin & The 2007 Heart Tug Recipients: Helen Vine Detox Center, Marin Services for Women, Ritter Center

Tickets & Info: General: $28 • Senior & Group (10+): $25 (415) 479-5691 • www.marindesignersshowcase.com

FINGERHUT GALLERY OF SAUSALITO

Premier Exhibition

GA8 8 World Renowned German-American Artists Opens Oct. 20th 7- 9 PM The Consul General of Germany and Fingerhut Gallery of Sausalito invite you to view the remarkable works of these talented artists.

Gallery collection includes: Picasso, Miro, Chagall, Matisse, Montesinos, Vanderveen, Jiang, Picart, Snowden, Rembrandt, Wilkinson, G. Slick, Dr. Seuss™ and others.

800-700-1842

690 BRIDGEWAY

www.fingerhutart.com/gallery/sausalito.html

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E-mail: sausalito@fingerhutart.com

Arts College Fair This free fair is designed for students interested in pursuing undergraduate and graduate study in music, dance, theater, visual arts, graphic design and other related disciplines. National Association for College Admission Counseling (SF). 703.299.6824, nacacnet.org/fairs

27 & 28 Glass Pumpkin Harvest Over 1,000 glass pumpkins hand-crafted by artists will be for sale. Proceeds will beneﬁt Seacology, a Bay Area environmental organization dedicated to protecting the endangered environments and cultures of islands throughout the world. Falkirk Cultural Center (San Rafael). 510.559.3505, seacology.org

LECTURES/WORKSHOPS Thru 26 Street Cred An exhibition of the city’s new and upcoming projects, which examines the strategies used by designers to encourage vital street life and enhance the pedestrian experience. AIA (SF). 415.362.4802, aiasf.org

3 Stress Relief Learn to reduce physical and emotional symptoms related to stress with acupuncturist Jodi Weitz. This talk will feature hands-on techniques and strategies for greater relaxation and well-being. Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy (Novato). 415.892.3700, pharmaca.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

5—7 Awakening the Creative with Stewart Cubley Take a journey into the wild territory of painting from intuition. In this workshop, people from all levels of experience are welcome, including those who have never picked up a paintbrush. The Painting Experience (Tiburon). 415.455.4682, processarts.com 10 Access Your Full Potential Through Hypnosis Certiﬁed hypnotherapist Cathy Cain will be doing an informative demonstration about how hypnosis builds powerful new beliefs in the subconscious mind that result in personal empowerment and well-being. Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy (Novato). 415.892.3700, pharmaca.com

11 Medication Review For National Pharmacy Month, Pharmaca is hosting a medication review with Nathan D. Pope, who will answers prescription or over-the-counter medication questions. Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy (Novato). 415.892.3700, pharmaca.com

Diplomate: American Board of Plastic Surgery American Board of Surgery American College of Surgeons, Fellow Harvard College, A.B., 1961, cum laude Harvard Medical School, 1965, cum laude

AESTHETIC AND RECONSTRUCTIVE PLASTIC SURGERY

Massachusetts General Hospital Internship and Residency in General Surgery The Johns Hopkins Hospital Chief Residency in Plastic Surgery United States Air Force Regional Hospital Chief of Surgery Houston Society of Plastic Surgeons, Past President Mt. Tam Laser and Skin Care, Kentﬁeld Medical Director

16 Food for Thought Each month chef Rachelle Boucher hosts a fun, interactive and educational cooking demonstration in Marin. After, learn more about kitchen appliances you already own or are considering purchasing. Standards of Excellence Showroom (San Rafael). 415.453.6070, standardsofexcellence.com 18 I Was a Really Good Mom Before I Had Kids Head to Goodnite Moon for a special book signing with local authors Trisha Ashworth and Amy Nobile who interviewed other mothers and then compiled the advice in their new book. Town Center (Corte Madera). 415.945.0677, goodnitemoon.com

24 Energy-Boosting Fall Detox Boost your energy and prepare yourself for the upcoming winter. Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy (Novato). 415.892.3700, pharmaca.com

NATURE WALKS/TALKS Ongoing Sonoma History Local actor George Webber morphs into Samuel Clemens, aka Mark Twain, as he retells the history of Sonoma through Twain’s eyes; speciﬁc dates on website (Sonoma). 707.694.5097, georgewebber.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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13 & 14 Natural Treasures of Point Reyes

When Elegant Touches Matter… Translucent Glass Cover Sleeves

AFTER

Immerse yourself in the natural world of Point Reyes. Wander through a wide variety of habitats in search of birds, mammals, mushrooms, insects and plants; then get ready for an evening hike and a rare chance to see and learn about nocturnal creatures (Point Reyes). 415.663.1200, ptreyes.org

21 Marin Headlands Geology In this seminar you’ll see underwater volcanic rock from the mid-Paciﬁc Ocean, rock made of skeletons of microscopic algae, the state rock serpentinite and more all brought here by the past collision between the North American and ancestral Paciﬁc plates (Point Reyes). 415.663.1200, ptreyes.org

BEFORE

26 Marin Moonshiner’s Hike Eat and toast the sunset and full moon rise during this monthly three-mile hike from Four Corners to the Pelican Inn. Pelican Inn (Muir Beach). 415.331.0100

HAND MADE ART GLASS COVER SLEEVES FOR CANDELABRA FIXTURES OR AS TABLE TOP CANDLES WITH THE LED FLICKER BULB UNIT, ETC. EACH CANDLE’S DRIPS ARE DIFFERENT! SIX SIZES. SEE WEBSITE FOR DETAILS: WWW.ANNETHULLFINEARTDESIGNS.COM 415.255.6703

• • •

fireplace showroom fine umbr ian ceramics natural stone on display

RETAIL THERAPY October NapaStyle The catalog and retail company inspired by chef and vintner Michael Chiarello’s Southern Italian heritage, will open its third Bay Area location at Town Center Corte Madera. The store will feature specialty foods, and home furnishings which Chiarello personally selects, designs or tests himself. Town Center (Corte Madera). shoptowncenter.com 4—5 Van Cleef and Arpel Don’t miss a trunk show featuring work by the legendary Parisian jeweler. Precious Jewels Salon, Neiman Marcus (SF). 415.362.3900, neimanmarcus.com

5 Pianegonda Collection Discover this Italian jewelry collection in the Designer Jewelry area. Neiman Marcus (SF). 415.362.3900, neimanmarcus.com

5—9 Gellner Jewelry Collection Exquisite

We’re far more than building materials Visit our Design & Décor Showroom

S A N R A FA E L

415 455.1575

s h ow ro o m : : : 5 4 8 D u B o i s S t : : : w w w. s h a m ro ck ma t e r i a l s . c o m

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cultured pearls and extraordinary designs built the name Gellner as one of Europe’s most recognized and respected jewelry companies. Don’t miss your chance to see the collection in the Sonoma, Healdsburg and Sausalito stores. Call for speciﬁc dates. Spirits in Stone (Sausalito). 415.332.2388, spiritsinstone.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

6 Shaesby Personal Appearance Meet Texas jeweler Shaesby Scott who began his career working primarily with welded steel. While living abroad in Rio de Janeiro, he discovered his passion for jewelry. Designer Jewelry, Neiman Marcus (SF). 415.362.3900, neimanmarcus.com

CALL THE SHOT!

9 St. John Collection Benefit A special collection has been created to benefit the Susan G. Komen foundation to aid in the fight against breast cancer. The collection will be sold exclusively at St. John Boutiques. St. John (SF). 415.856.0420, stjohnknits.com 12—13 Reem Acra Bridal Collection Future brides shouldn’t miss taking a look at the Reem Acra collection, which is known for beaded embroideries and unique fabric combinations. Bridal Salon, Neiman Marcus (SF). 415.362.3900, neimanmarcus.com 19 Fashion Show Join Larkspur kid clothing boutique Swing for a fashion show featuring the latest styles for children. All proceeds will go to Room to Read, a nonprofit which builds schools and libraries in developing countries and in the United States. Swing (Larkspur). 415.924.2500

How well do you know Marin? Call the Shot has a simple premise: Tell us

19 & 20 Sarah Graham Metalsmithing

Larkspur Landing.

This jeweler’s collection is inspired by nature and takes an organic approach to design and textures. Spirits in Stone (Sausalito). 415.332.2388, spiritsinstone.com

To win, your answer must be specific. You’ll have to do better than “Mt. Tam”

where this picture is and win something nice, something very nice. This month the prize is a $100 gift certificate for the E&O Trading Co. restaurant in

or “Richardson Bay.” The street name is the minimum we want, and after that the more specific the better. Here’s a clue: You can take this photo while sitting

26 & 27 Fritz & Mischell Art jewelers, Fritz & Mischell, return to present their newest designs from the collections Organically Grown and Reﬂections on Color. Their collaborative work is a marriage of style, beauty, vision and craftsmanship. Spirits in Stone (Sonoma). 707.938.2200, spiritsinstone.com

26 & 27 Pomellato Event The entire collection of this successful Italian jewelry line will be on display and for sale. Amir Mozaffarian (SF). 415.391.9995, mozzafarian.com

on a bench (although the photographer swears he was standing. ) Here’s how to play: Go to marinmagazine.com, agree to the rules and submit your answer. Simple. The winner will be chosen randomly from all correct answers. Good luck!

family fun like the kids carnival, haunted house and more. Sonoma County Fairgrounds (Sonoma). 415.545.4200, harvestfair.org

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

WINE COUNTRY 5—7 Sonoma County Harvest Fair Taste and buy over 500 award-winning wines made from Sonoma County grapes, all under one roof. Don’t miss the competitive exhibits; arts and craft displays, live music and MARINMAGAZINE.COM

14 Wine Country Kitchen Tour See how homeowners, designers and builders are creating or recreating kitchens today during the Sonoma Community Center’s 3rd annual Wine Country Kitchen Tour and Luncheon (Sonoma). 707.938.4626 ext. 7,

sonomacommunitycenter.org

20 Art Auction The landscape and galleries of the di Rosa Preserve set the stage for Moon Proof Madness, the sixth annual beneﬁt auction. Artists include Chester Arnold, David Ireland and others. This event raises funds to support cultural and educational programs at the di Rosa Preserve. di Rosa Preserve (Napa). 707.226.5991, dirosapreserve.org MARIN

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F LAVO R

E&O TRADING COMPANY Southeast Asian cuisine in Larkspur Landing BY ERIKA LENKERT Chicken satay

PHOTO TIM PORTER

a l k i n g i n t o E & O Tr a d i n g

ahi tartare is also a more delicate alternative;

Company in Larkspur Landing

time scene. Edamame glamorized with gor-

unfortunately, during my visit it was bland and

flavors and certainly seems geared to a good-

practically induces culture shock.

geous black shiso salt is easy to share, as is

served with wonton chips that were past their

Its grand perpetually mood-lit room, stylized

the Indian-style flatbread roti paratha accom-

prime. Yet most such culinary missteps are

Southeast Asian decor and dining spaces di-

panied by yogurt and a spicy dipping sauce of

made up for in customer service: every time

vided by hanging beads are a far cry from its

sweet chili sauce and spices, though the lat-

I come here it’s apparent the staff really cares

generic low-slung outdoor mall location—or

ter is so irresistibly buttery and flaky you may

about providing a good experience.

from most Marin restaurants, for that matter.

not want to.

But for locals who are shopping, seeing a mov-

Plenty of diners feel similarly about the

late silk cake delivered on its velvety promise,

ie or just looking for festive dining, the West

Indonesian corn fritters: fresh kernels bound

while the Hot Bangkok Sundae arrived cold.

Coast chain’s Marin outpost is a pleasingly

in a light batter and glistening with fryer

No matter: if you’ve got a designated driver,

exotic retreat with decent, moderately priced

grease. They’re wonderful on the eye but

one of the best ways to end the evening is

Southeast Asian cuisine.

too rich for my tastes—even before they’re

with the Tiramisu Martini, an ingenious inven-

dunked in sweet and spicy soy sauce.

tion by bar manager Ronaldo Rodriguez that

Even though I occasionally drop in here for lunch after a yoga class, I can’t help but

It’s hard to go wrong with chicken satay—

tastes uncannily like the classic dessert. True,

think of E&O as a party restaurant. With eth-

especially when it comes with such thick and

it departs from the overall Eastern theme, but

nic lounge music coming from speakers built

creamy peanut sauce—or spareribs rubbed

if you’ve made it this far with the Southeast

into the two-story pumpkin-tinted walls, a

with brown sugar and basted with a mango-

Asian fantasy in the middle of Larkspur, you

huge full bar, and a unisex sink area in the

mustard glaze. Larger dishes like Vietnamese

can suspend disbelief long enough for a side

bathroom, it feels clubby—like a perfect place

shaking beef or Thai seafood clay pot are

trip to Italy.

to make an evening of shared plates washed

equally easy to enjoy family style, especially

down with cocktails or wines from the surpris-

paired with sides of rice.

ingly diverse list.

E&O Trading Company, 2231 Larkspur

Diners preferring subtler, lighter flavors will

Landing Circle, Larkspur; 415.925.0303;

The menu, overseen by chef de cuisine

find respite in the seared ahi salad with Asian

eotrading.com. Lunch and dinner daily; small

Edwin Cabrilla-Torres, favors sweet and salty

greens, cucumbers and ponzu dressing. The

and large plates $7–$25.

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PH OTO: TI M P ORTER

Desserts can be hit and miss. The choco-

INSIDER’S GUIDE

DINE OUT CORTE MADERA CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN Cal/Eclectic Be prepared for chaos. Easy place to meet with kids; Mom/Dad can enjoy a tasty Thai crunch salad and decent glass of wine while the little ones feast on basic kid-size portions of pasta and pizza. 347 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.945.0401

rolls, and combinations of pho are delicious and healthy. 346 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.0288 PACIFIC CATCH Pan-Asian This well-priced fresh grill eatery offers a bounty of Pacific Rim —inspired small or main plates, like the generously portioned wasabi bowls filled with rice (white or brown), veggies and your choice of fresh or raw fish, chicken or beef. 223 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.3474, pacificcatch.com

FAIRFAX

IL FORNAIO Italian Sausalito’s Larry Mindel hit a home run with this upscale Italian 23-restaurant franchise. Besides the award-winning breads, pizzas and pastas, the menu boasts a variety of salads and noncarb entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com

CAFE AMSTERDAM American-European The former Broadway Video store is now a cozy spot to enjoy live music, a weekend brunch, dining on the heated patio and a large selection of local beers on tap. 23 Broadway, 415.256.8020, cafeamsterdamlive.com

IZZY’S STEAKS & CHOP HOUSE American The legendary San Francisco steak house has moved north. Known for great steaks and seafood as well as its ﬁne wine selection, this is a great spot for a group or intimate dinner for two. 55 Tamal Vista, 415.924.3366, izzyssteaksandchops.com

IRON SPRINGS PUB & BREWERY American Grab a beer and a grilled portobello mushroom sandwich—which one Chronicle reviewer calls “the best mushroom dish I have ever tasted”—at the former Ross Valley Brewing Company. 765-A Center Blvd, 415.485.1005, ironspringspub.com

LA MAISON DE LA REINE Vietnamese A refreshing change amid the plethora of Italian, Mexican and Chinese options in town. The crunchy cabbage chicken salad with peanuts, fresh spring

SORELLA CAFÉ Italian Not only is the food satisfying and tasty; the service is friendly and the ambience is warm and inviting. 107 Bolinas Rd, 415.258.4520

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

LARKSPUR CAFE Z American A pleasant surprise in the Bon Air shopping mall, dishes like their grilled chicken pesto pianni or savory crepes, have quickly made this intimate spot a local and inventive meals, keep people coming back for more (Greenbrae). 282 Bon Air Center, 415.461-9444, cafez.com E & 0 TRADING COMPANY Southeast Asian Chef Edwin Cabriloa-Torres is keeping the the restaurant’s innovative plates like the Indonesian corn fritters and Thai seafood clay pot as tasty as ever. Without reservations, try a spot at the large communal table. 2231 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.925.0303, eotrading.com LARK CREEK INN American This ﬂagship eatery for the Lark Creek Restaurant Group opened back in 1989 and was hailed by the New York Times as having “the best home cooking you can imagine.” It remains a perennial special occasion spot and is still known for inventive country cooking—as well as a cozy bar scene. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7766, larkcreek.com LEFT BANK RESTAURANT French Known for award-winning French cuisine and its lively brasserie ambience, this corner spot has held court with the locals for well over a decade. Those with a petite appetite/budget can opt for happy hour (4-6 M-F) and enjoy appetizers, all priced under three dollars. 507 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.3331, leftbank.com

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INDIA PALACE Indian Known as “that great restaurant in the Travelodge,” India Palace is a favorite among the takeout crowd; however, eating veggie samosas, shahi khorma, or bhindi special (okra) on site is a treat too. 707 Redwood Hwy, 415.388.3350 LA GINESTRA Italian A favorite family spot for over 30 years; getting a table or comfortable booth can take a while. While this old-school Italian eatery is known for traditional pastas, veal dishes, pizzas and dry martinis, the familiar wait staff is also part of the attraction. 127 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0224 ORA Pan-Asian An inventive small and large plate menu mixed with an impressive wine list and original bar menu, including sake flights. Some favorites include Belgian endive cups, green papaya salad, and anything on the sushi list. It’s an easy place to pop in for a drink and bite to eat, but call ahead for large groups. 24 Sunnyside Ave, 415.381.7500. oramv.com

P I C C O California C h e f a n d c e l e b ra t e d restaurateur Bruce Hill deserves the accolades he has received for this eclectic shared-plate heaven. Dishes like mini-burgers and seasonally driven menu items, along with risotto made every half hour, keep people coming back. The Picco Pizzeria and Wine Bar next door is cozy (not many seats) but already famous for its wood-fired pizzas, great wine selection and soft-serve Straus Family Creamery ice cream. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com TABLE CAFÉ, Indian / American Indian-inspired cafe offers a unique menu featuring entirely organic ingredients. Menu includes seasonal salads, incredible soups and fresh juices. The specialty of the house is dosia, filled with a variety of ingredients and served with savory home-made chutneys. You can also take home a choice of three or four gourmet dinners freshly-packed daily 1167 Magnolia Ave 415.461.6787 YANKEE PIER American This family-friendly casual clam shack is harbored in a quaint house built in 1924 as a private residence. Though known for beer battered fish ‘n’ chips, clam chowder and tasty salads —Yankee Pier serves fresh seafood delivered daily from both coasts for dishes by renowned chef Anthony Bowman. 286 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7676, yankeepier.com

BUNGALOW 44 American Much like sister restaurant Buckeye Roadhouse, Bungalow 44 offers a mean dose of homey carbo- and lipid-laden dishes, such as the burger, fried chicken and trufﬂe fries, as well as a few lighter items. The bar is a neighborhood favorite, serving up tasty spirits and eye candy. 44 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com CACTUS CAFE AND TAQUERIA Mexican Recently under new management; the food is better than ever. They still offer the lunchtime bargain burrito, as well as fish tacos, ceasar salads with grilled chicken or shrimp. Be sure to opt for the diablo sauce on enchiladas and burritos. 393 Miller Ave, 415.388-8226 CAFE DEL SOUL California Beware of addiction. Once you stop in for the deliciously fresh Hummus Yummus wrap, you’ll have to come back to sample the chipotle Sunrise Rice Bowl; then it will be the Thai It Up wrap with peanut sauce washed down with ginger limeade that brings you back, and so on. Casual lunch spot, great for takeout. 247 Shoreline Highway, 415.388.1852, cafedelsoul.net

MILL VALLEY

DIPSEA CAFE Comfort One word: biscuits. This long-time Mill Valley breakfast spot has been serving up tasty pancakes and egg dishes with homemade biscuits since 1986. Try a biscuit with a poached egg, a biscuit with sausage –or just plain butter. Lunch specialties include BLTs and tuna melts and generous cobb salads. Now serving dinner. 200 Shoreline Highway. 415.381.0298, dipseacafe.com

BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and chili-lime “brick” chicken are a few of the satisfying, comfort-food-type menu items that have made this classic road-house a favorite since the ‘30s. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com

FRANTOIO RISTORANTE ITALIANO Italian Known for its in-house olive press, superior olive oil and excellent Italian cuisine, this is a great location for large groups. Ask to sit in the press room for private parties. 152 Shoreline Hwy, 415.289.5777, frantoio.com

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MARIN OCTOBER 2007

PIZZA ANTICA Cal/Italian Light and delicious thincrust pizza with toppings like fennel, spicy sausage, bacon, pesto and goat cheese, as well as a variety of fresh green salads and entrées. Acoustics are an issue; otherwise, a great meeting spot. Strawberry Village, 415.383.0600 SMALL SHED FLATBREADS California As a slow food chef, Ged Robertson uses only local, mostly organic ingredients. Crowd favorites include the Mt. Tamal-Pie, a delicious fresh salad atop a flatbread. 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, smallshed.com THEP LELA Thai This jewel is tucked away in the back of the new Strawberry Village. Diners come for the tasty kee mao noodles, pad thai, fresh rolls and extensive bar menu. It’s also a great place for lunch. 615 Strawberry Village, 415.383.3444 VASCO Italian Whether you’re at a table, the bar or the back counter, you can expect an intimate and tasty dining experience at this one-room trattoria. 106 Throckmorton Ave, 415.381.3343

NOVATO BOCA STEAK & SEAFOOD South American George Morrone, of Aqua and Fifth Floor fame, has been serving up an Argentinean-inspired menu in Novato with much ado. House specialties include provolenta, gambas al ajillo, and empanadas, as well as hand-cut (grass- and grain-fed) steaks. 340 Ignacio Blvd, 415.883.0901, bocasteak.com CACTI GRILL Southwestern A former bell tower church, the family-friendly restaurant now boasts a covered patio and serves a 21-day dry aged steak and ﬁlet mignon enchiladas. 1200 Grant Ave, 415.898.2234, cactigrill.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

P H OTO: TIM P ORTER

Edamame from E & O Trading Company

PIAZZA D’ANGELO Italian It’s always a party at this long-standing hot spot. A great place to meet up with friends for a fresh plate of pasta, zuppa di pesce or pollo novello, or make some new friends at the bar. 22 Miller Ave, 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com

KITCHEN American Restaurateur Henry Hautau has succeeded in creating an intimate 45-seat restaurant in downtown Novato. Executive chef Jason S. Hoffman, who has worked at Insalatas, Azie and Waterfront, offers items like orange-and-spicescented house-brined pork chop and star-anisebraised short ribs. 868 Grant Ave, 415.892.6100, kitchen868.com WILDFOX American Perched on the hillside off Highway 101, this rustic mesquite grill offers a menu full of comfort food and drinks, like the smooth cosmos, and seafood risotto, with bits of butternut squash. 225 Alameda del Prado, 415.883.9125, wildfoxrestaurant.com

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E YOUR WAN ERLUS

MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS French This gem of a restaurant serves up locally farmed produce, wild and fresh seafood and free-range meats prepared with an artisan’s touch. 23 Ross Common, 415.925.9200, marcheauxfleursrestaurant.com TRATTORIA FRESCO Italian Every neighborhood deserves a one-room trattoria like this one. The service is friendly and the farmers’-market-fresh food is fabulous—especially the gnocchi. 13 Ross Common, 415.464.0915

SAN ANSELMO AVA California Chef Dan Baker, of Marché aux Fleurs in Ross, has another winner with AVA, which features a California-only wine list and a menu where nearly all the ingredients come from within 100 miles—if not the Marin County Farmers’ Market. The small menu includes seasonal flatbreads, pasta and six seasonal main dishes. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.453.3407 CUCINA RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR Italian Proprietor Jack Krietzman (also of Pacific Heights’ Jackson Fillmore) has successfully brought Milan to Marin with his 42-seat family restaurant. Relax with a glass of wine and have a slice from the todie-for thin pizzas, which are topped with items like truffle oil and fontina cheese. 510 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.2942 FORK California This intimate spot was awarded a “Top Food in the Bay Area” designation by Zagat for 2007. Opt for the five-course tasting menu or seasonal à la carte options. Dining early? The three course special for $20 is available during the first seating. 198 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.453.9898, marinfork.com INSALATA’S Mediterranean Award-winning chef Heidi Insalata Krahling offers Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes prepared with local organic produce and artisan meats. 120 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.457.7700, insalatas.com LOCOCO’S PIZZERIA Italian Worth driving to from all over Marin, and it’s an easy place to meet with friends and family. The pizza crust is divine as is the house salad. Easy spot to come with the entire family. Closed Mondays. 638 San Anselmo Ave, 415.453.1238, lococossananselmo.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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MARIN OCTOBER 2007

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Your Autumn Getaway is Closer than You Think Reserve your relaxing autumn getaway at the Mill Valley Inn. Enjoy the scenic canopy of the redwoods, while only being steps away from the charming town of Mill Valley. [Mill Valley Inn]...the superlative service and setting – steps away from shops and restaurants – create la dolce vita in Marin. Marisa Lagos, San Francisco Chronicle

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SAUSALITO AN GE LI N O R E STAU R ANT Italian Fatherand-son chefs Pasquale and Alfredo Ancona offer handmade pastas and seasonal antipasti at this authentic Italian restaurant, which has been serving food from the Campania region for the past 24 years. 621 Bridgeway, 415.331.5225, angelinorestaurant.com CAFFÉ DIVINO Tuscan Sure, you’ll find great coffee drinks in a funky one-room setting, but locals also come for the tasty pastas and salads cooked by Tuscan-born chef Elana Fabbri. Free delivery in Sausalito. 37 Caledonia St, 415.331.9355, caffedivinosausalito.com GAYLORD INDIA Indian Rated as a “Restaurant of Excellence” by Zagat, Gaylord’s new location in Sausalito also features million-dollar views of San Francisco and the bay. All of the dishes including samosas, curries and tandoori are made with fresh local produce, seafood and artisan meats. 201 Bridgeway, 415.339.0172, gaylord.com KITTI’S PLACE Pan-Asian Watch out Comforts (aka the best chicken salad in town), Kitty’s serves up a delicious crunchy fresh chicken salad, as well as light tasty spring rolls too. Everything on the menu, from the pad thai to the B.L.T. made with thick bacon, lettuce, tomato and avocado, is excellent, which is why this little oneroom spot is always bustling. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.331.0390 POGGIO Italian A great place to celebrate a special occasion or simply enjoy a night out. Executive chef Peter McNee cooks up delicious Northern Italian cuisine using fresh and local ingredients, including produce from the nearby Poggio chef garden. 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com SUSHI RAN Japanese Fresh, innovative small plates are just big enough to share, the traditional sushi is melt-in-your-mouth good and the wine, cocktail and sake lists keep the pickiest barfly well satisﬁed. Even the prices don’t deter the herd of sushi enthusiasts, who line up nightly to partake; reservations required in main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com

SAN RAFAEL CAFE GRATITUDE Raw The waiters might push the afﬁrmations theme a bit too much, but the tasty (and healthy) food is worth it. Besides supporting local farmers and sustainable agriculture, the raw food and vegan samosas are hard to resist. Best to bring a group and sample lots of items on the menu. 2200 Fourth St, 415.824.4652, withthecurrent.com

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SABOR OF SPAIN Spanish Named as Best Tapas/ Small Dishes restaurant in Marin by the Paciﬁc Sun in 2006, this bustling corner hot spot with a Spanish-only wine bar is a great place for a date or a big party. 1301 Fourth St, 415.457.8466, saborofspain.com SAN RAFAEL JOE’S Italian Guido and Theresa Farina are now running this Marin institution,

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which has been famous for serving up sophisticated yet casual Italian fare since 1947. 931 Fourth St, 415.456.2425, srjoes.com SEAFOOD PEDDLER Seafood A great place to seek out fresh seafood in a warm and inviting environment. Varieties of East and West Coast fish flown in daily. Dine indoors or out, or better yet, rent out the banquet room for a party. 100 Yacht Club Dr, 415.460.6669, seafoodpeddler.com SOL FOOD Puerto Rican With south-of-theborder treats like yellow rice, beans, plantains and authentic Puerto Rican dishes, this tiny one-room eatery on Fourth Street just off Highway 101 can be hard to get into, but worth the wait. 732 Fourth St, and 901 Lincoln Ave, 415.451.4765 SUSHI TO DAI FOR Japanese Snagging a seat in this popular sushi spot can be a challenge, but patience will be rewarded with tasty and fresh sashimi, unique sushi rolls and great prices. 869 Fourth St, 415.721.0392

TIBURON GINZA Japanese The old Tiburon Tommie’s space is now the spot to find great sushi in downtown Tiburon. The double hamachi roll is not to be missed. 41 Main St, 415.789.5123 ROONEY’S CAFÉ & GRILL American If you’re old enough to remember Cheers on prime time, this is your dinner spot. There’s not a long bar, nor a bartender named Sam (he’s across the street); however, there is an undeniable neighborhood feeling in this one-room cottage dining room. 38 Main St, 415.435.1911 SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE American Everyone knows Sam’s deck is the prime spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole, but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. Enjoy trans-fat-free calamari, fresh ﬁsh, seasonal salads and pastas. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com SERVINO RISTORANTE Italian With people like Warren Buffett and Bill Gates raving about his pizza, Angelina Servino is doing something right. Some people come for the spacious and popular bar; some people come for the great food and friendly service; the titans of industry, it seems, opt for the pepperoni. 9 Main St, 415.435.2676, servino.com THREE DEGREES California Opt for the outside patio, white tablecloths in the dining room, or the swank modern setting of the bar, and enjoy the local, seasonal menu options like grilled Niman Ranch New York “cowboy” strip steak or Dungeness crab risotto. 1651 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.5996, threedegreesrestaurant.com

WEST MARIN DRAKES BEACH CAFE Local If you’re OK with the long drive, you can’t beat the view and the fresh local ingredients used to make the burgers, salads and soups at this casual spot (Inverness). 1 Drakes Beach Rd, 415.669.1297, drakesbeachcafe.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

OLEMA INN California One of the most charming settings around, this inn and restaurant is a great destination lunch spot for a Sunday drive, or dinner Wednesday through Sunday. The menu includes tasty and imaginative combinations using regional and organic greens and artisan meats (Olema). 10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.663.9559, theolemainn.com

Free hat with every purchase.

PARKSIDE CAFE American Most people know it as the ultimate breakfast spot [as in Guatemalan scramble or waffle with blood orange-strawberry compote and whipped cream, al fresco] but lunch and dinners are great here too. Choose from an array of organic locally grown produce and artisan meats and wild seafood (Stinson). 43 Arenal Ave, 415.868.1272, parksidecafe.com PINE CONE DINER American Just off the main road, Joannie Kwit has re-created the ultimate neighborhood diner. Vintage china and homemade curtains complement the eclectic but homey menu featuring local fare (Point Reyes Station). 60 Fourth St, 415.663.1536, pineconediner.com SAND DOLLAR American Sand Dollar American Originally built as three barges in Tiburon in 1921, The Sand Dollar Restaurant was ﬂoated to Stinson that same year and still exists today (though slightly revamped thanks to new owners). Enjoy live music along with local barbecue oysters, New England clam chowder or crispy tofu and avocado sandwich (Stinson). 3458 Shoreline Hwy 415-868-0434, stinsonbeachrestaurant.com SURFER’S GRILL American The view doesn’t get better than this—nor does a surf salad. Built right out on Stinson Beach, this casual lunch spot is offers up tasty fresh organic salads along side corndogs, burgers and fries (Stinson). Stinson Beach Park, Highway 1, 415.868.1777, surfersgrill.com

SAN FRANCISCO AME Pan-Asian On the ground floor of the St. Regis Hotel, Ame Restaurant was designated “Best New Restaurant in 2007” by the Zagat guide. Known for raw treatments such as sashimi, crudo, tartare and carpaccio. Dinner only, reservations recommended. 689 Mission St, 415.284.4040, amerestaurant.com BOBOQUIVARI’S THE STEAK Steak/Seafood In the mood for surf and turf? Head out to Bobo’s and be sure to order the iron skillet-roasted mussels, Dungeness Crab, and of course, the steak. Dryaged for four to six weeks, the proprietors (also of the Stinking Rose) claim it’s the only one of its kind on the West Coast 1450 Lombard Street, 415.441.8880, boboquivaris.com BONG SU Vietnamese Brainchild of Tammy Huynh, executive chef and co-owner of the popular Tamarine in Palo Alto. The interior is a mix of the modern and traditional silk, wood and steel elements such as a giant bong su (plumeria), floating orchids in towering glass vases, and possibly the most talked-about design feature, the barely there hostess uniforms. The restaurant was voted one of Esquire magazine’s top 20 in 2006. 311 Third St, 415.536.5800, bongsu.com

Where else can you get a 100% waterproof Bryan’s Fine Foods hat with a big logo on both the front and the back — FREE? Take all the time you want. Okay, time’s up. Nowhere, that’s where. Same answer if anyone asks where else you might ﬁnd such perfectly aged, well-marbled prime cut-to-thickness rib-eye. Or ruby red shashimi grade Yellowtail (hamachi) that is seriously just off the hook. Or zippy, slowsmoked, St. Louis racks ‘o ribs that will make you squeal like a pig. Nowhere, that’s where. All that, plus a FREE hat* that is sure to draw comments from neighbors, business associates and people you don’t even know. Come buy everything. *One size ﬁts all.

Bryan’s Fine Foods Corte Madera Town Center

927.4488 www.bryansfinefoods.com MARIN OCTOBER 2007

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CANTEEN Cali/French It’s not easy to get a seat in this nationally noted California-French restaurant, partly because of its reputation and partly because there aren’t many. Ever since the former Rubicon chef Dennis Leary turned a run-down downtown coffee shop into one of the best spots in the city, people have been lining up to sample the goods. 817 Sutter St, 415.928.8870 HAR R I S’ R E STAU R ANT Steak house This San Francisco institution has hosted local and international luminaries for nearly a century. Wine Spectator ranked Harris’ as one of the nation’s top ten steak houses. 2100 Van Ness Ave, 415.673.1888, harrisrestaurant.com JONES RESTAURANT Comfort If you’re thinking to cross the bridge, to satisfy your thirst check out the brand new Jones Restaurant in the spot formerly occupied by the Marina Sports Bar. The bar manager, Tony Devencenzi has created a menu featuring fresh ingredients and inventive takes on the classics. Don’t miss the muddled Cucumber-Basil Gimlet or the freshly squeezed 2400 Greyhound. 2400 Lombard, 415.440.2000, jones-sf.com MAMACITA Mexican Known for its authentic Mexican cuisine and 100 percent pure agave tequila margaritas, this Marina restaurant has quickly become a local favorite. 2317 Chestnut St, 415.376.1629, mamacitasf.com MYTH Cali/French Innovative cuisine by chef Sean O’Brien, formerly of Gary Danko, has made this one of the most popular spots in town. 470 Paciﬁc Ave, 415.677.8986, mythsf.com PERBACCO Italian The seasonal Italian menu focuses on the northern Piemontese region, featuring handcrafted charcuterie, homemade pastas and regional dishes such as quail with persimmon and apple salad. 230 California St, 415.955.0663, perbaccosf.com

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MARIN OCTOBER 2007

PRESIDIO SOCIAL CLUB California Originally the barracks for enlisted men; menu features steaks, pork chops and fresh oysters. Throwing a party? Try the private room, which can accommodate 30 people. 563 Ruger St, 415.885.1888, presidosocialclub.com QUINCE California Book a reservation at least a month in advance to get a seat at one of the 15 tables in this tiny restaurant. The farmers’ market creations by chef Michael Tusk, formerly of Chez Panisse and Oliveto, are sure to please. 1701 Octavia St, 415.775.8500, quincerestaurant.com SCOTT HOWARD American The former chef/ owner of Fork in San Anselmo, Scott Howard packed up his talent and moved it to the big city, in the former location of the Cypress Club on Jackson Street. 500 Jackson St, 415.956.7040, scotthowardsf.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

adl i b

MARIN ADVERTISERS SPEAK UP

Peter Englander

Kathleen Dahlen

Box Canyon Builders, Mill Valley

Lululemon Athletica, Corte Madera

Peter Lea and Laurie Cummings

Box Canyon Builders is an award-winning real

Founded as a yoga-inspired active wear compa-

Tam Cellars, Larkspur Landing

estate development and construction company

ny Lululemon Athletica provides components for

specializing in single-family luxury homes and

people to live long, healthy and fun lives. “We cre-

Co-owners Peter Lea and Laurie Cummings

small scale developments in Marin and Telluride,

ate an efficient and customized guest experience

Colorado. “We work with architects and owners

to each person who comes through our doors

and do exceptional work on only a select and

and match each guest with the perfect garments

limited amount of projects,” says owner Peter

for their activity of choice,” says store manager

Englander.

Kathleen Dahlen.

What is your competitive edge?

Describe your business philosophy.

When someone hires my company they are get-

The team members on our floor are active and

ting me on their project, not a manager. I am do-

committed to healthy lifestyles; they can speak

ing the work, taking responsibility and paying

authentically about a variety of activities and are

attention on a day-to-day basis.

knowledgeable about how our garments perform.

Describe your dream team.

What is your competitive edge?

An owner and architect with the artistic vision,

Our products are incredibly functional but also

faith and resources to design and build a special

bright and stylish. The line is created by athletes

project.

for athletes and we are committed to gather-

opened the Tam Cellars wine bar and wine shop in April and are excited to introduce lesser known wines and different varietals to their clients. “Wine should be fun and not intimidating. Our wine bar has wines by the glass, tasting flights and appetizers,” say Lea and Cummings.

What is your competitive edge? We offer high quality wine at competitive prices, which is not intuitive given the elegant ambience of the bar and shop. The wine bar is unique because you can sample wine before you purchase a bottle.

ing feedback in order to constantly improve our

What makes you excel at what you do?

designs.

I care and think about what I do. As an owner on my own projects I have become adept at multiple

What service is your favorite?

facets of the design, development and construc-

Lululemon Athletica offers a variety of free events

tion experience and I pass that perspective on to

from running clinics to yoga classes in order to

my client.

connect with the community and help our guests feel their best.

What makes your work worthwhile? Creating something truly unique and special.

PHOTOS: SHERI MONTGOMERY

We have a large selection of wine and offer guest winery tasting events, a wine club, live music, classes and beautiful merchandise.

Describe your dream customer. We love turning people on to new wine varietals and wineries. It’s great when people can get out of mainstream wines and trying something new.

What makes your work worthwhile? The wine industry is exciting and interesting. All

What did you want to be when you grew up? I danced for 13 years growing up so I had big

What service is your favorite?

ambitions to move to New York and be a

A hands-on personalized approach to produce an

performer on Broadway.

artful, luxurious home with a deep sense of design and detail unlike anything else being built.

Which product or service is your favorite?

Kathleen Dahlen, Lululemon Athletica, The Village at Corte Madera, 1618 Redwood Hwy., Corte

Peter Englander, Box Canyon Builders, 24

Madera, cortemadera-community@lululemon.com,

Blithedale Terrace, Mill Valley, 415.710.7843,

lululemon.com/marincounty/cortemadera

boxcanyonbuilders.com

ADVE RT IS IN G P R OMOT ION

the people associated with it, including customers, are happy people! Tam Cellars has a very positive energy and our customers love the unique, comfortable atmosphere, good food and delicious wines. Peter Lea and Laurie Cummings, 1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur, 415.461.9463, tamcellars.com

“VALLEY” BY AQUA TALIA

You’re an item, weather or not.

nancy van natta associates •

“WHOOPIE” BY AQUA TALIA

1102 MAGNOLIA AVE. / LARKSPUR / 415.925.0109 www.item-shoes.com / MON. - SAT. / 10:30 - 5:30

item shoes & accessories

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Emotional Spaces Residential & Commercial 415-456-3078 www.van-natta.com

pinestreet papery

Marin’s Finest Consignment Shop Manolo Blanik Jimmy Choo Prada Chanel Gucci Hermes St. John …and more

Open Mon - Sat 10am - 5pm Consignments Taken Tues - Sat 10am - 3pm (415) 456-7309 • 11 Mary St., San Rafael (next to Peets)

42 1/2 Caledonia, Sausalito 415.332.5458

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

MARIN OCTOBER 2007

147

residential interior design

christa

BOX CANYON BUILDERS

design

christa quagliaroli 415.309.6938

christaq@sbcglobal.net

sausalito

MILL VALLEY, CA TELLURIDE, CO 415-710-7843 SINCE 1989 www.boxcanyonbuilders.com ca lic. #890728

Preserving Marin’s Wood Homes & Decks ESTABLISHED 1995

www.marin-wood.com 415.924.5005 Call for free estimate

BEFORE

BONDEDED & INSURED LIC.# 830339

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MARIN OCTOBER 2007

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Artistry in Wood

Newly Revised Website

“Katrina Bench, Broken Dreams & Renewal” whose wood, a unique plank of figured maple with splits and knot holes, was repaired with epoxy, sanded smooth and assembled with dovetails.

Custom Woodworking & Design furniture~houses~boats~wood car trim 35+ years solving problems big & small to high standards. michael childs ~ sausalito 415.460.0129 michaelchilds.com

Marin’s Original Reclaimed Wood Company

wide plank flooring, siding and beams www.blacksfarmwood.com San Rafael Showroom By Appointment 415.454.8312

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lic #888109

EST. 1965

Marin’s Finest Cabinet Source A professional approach to kitchen, Bath and Total remodel of your home

1241 Andersen Drive • San Rafael

415-454-1623 • Lampertikitchens.com

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SOLAR ENERGY IN YOUR HOUSE IS CLOSER THAN YOU THINK Benefits to adding a solar system now: • Reduce or eliminate your PG&E bills. • Protect yourself from any future electricity rate increase. • Take advantage of significant rebates and recent Federal tax credits. • Increase your property value without increasing property taxes. • 100% financing solutions available. • Power your home with clean, renewable energy.

Real Estate - A Good Investment

The most comprehensive public website of active listings and real estate professionals in the North Bay.

Schedule a FREE home energy analysis with a SolarCraft expert and your thinking on solar energy may change.

CA Lic: 497797

www.solarcraft.com (415) 382-7717 285-D BEL MARIN KEYS BLVD, NOVATO

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MARIN OCTOBER 2007

Information on GreatHomes.org is provided by the 10,000 Real Estate Professionals of Bay Area Real Estate Information Services, Inc.

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Kathleen Dunne

fine ar t & fur niture galler y studio333 s a u s a l i t o

Glendalough, Ireland #3

September 27- October 31 Artist’s Reception Friday, October 5 • 6 to 8 p.m. The

Art Bar

34 Main Street, Tiburon • 415.435.3999 • www.artbar.us 333a caledonia, sausalito • 415.331.8272

alyssa remington photography

DESIGNS

Jewelry of Your Dreams Custom Design & Repairs 1137 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur 415.461.2212 www.lehrerdesigns.com

www.alyssaremington.com 415.847.5598

Yellow & White Diamonds, Ruby and Platinum Earrings

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MARIN OCTOBER 2007

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