Shot on location at the ICB Building in Sausalito.
editor somer fl aherty photos sasha gulish
think Homeless in Marin
In the land of plenty, there are plenty without homes.
story jeff swenerton photos tim porter
journey Untamed Iceland
A
Departments
letters
Readers respond to Marin Magazine.
what’s it like?
To sail to the Great Pacific Garbage Patch by mary t. crowley
currents
One big book club in Marin, and more.
trends
The season’s stimulating stackables. by somer flaherty
marinterview
Fashion designer Christopher Collins shares his inspiration. by mimi towle
fyi
Green: Marin schools and sustainable practices. by mimi towle
Home Decor: Keeping it green with furnishings. by somer flaherty
Shop: Make a statement with reusable bags. by jim wood
44
The Cover
Place des preschuers by Marin artist Suzie Buchholz. Find more of her work at suziebuchholz.com or by calling her studio at 415.331.2333 for an appointment.
Departments
Snow on Mount Tamalpais. by jim wood 44 72 84 94 95 113 130
Nicolette Hahn Niman: vegetarian, cattle rancher. by jim wood go
Water activities around the Hawaiian islands. by mimi towle calendar
A roundup of what to do in Marin and beyond.
snapshots
Out and about in Marin and San Francisco.
dine
Dine Out, an insider’s guide to Bay Area eateries. microclimate
Hamilton Field reborn. by daniel jewett looking back
Columns
Open space battles. by jim wood 18 22 conversation
view from mount tam
The founders of Marin Magazine welcome you to share their vision. pov
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EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nikki Wood ext 105 | nwood@marinmagazine.com
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Jim Wood ext 106 | jwood@marinmagazine.com
THIS ISSUE WE CELEBRATE SPRING FASHION with “The Whites of Spring,” a 10-page spread of photographs by Sasha Gulish shot at the historic ICB Building in Sausalito and featuring the studio and paintings of artist Suzie Buchholz, whose work is featured on this month’s cover. For a behind-the-shoot video, go to marinmagazine.com
Spring is also an apt season to talk about greening, and we recognize the Marin community’s commitment to a sustainable philosophy and lifestyle with a story on the growing green practices of local schools (FYI Green), a look at eco-friendly furniture trends (FYI Home Decor) and a spotlight on reusable shopping bags (FYI Shop).
Our travel stories this issue explore both ends of the thermometer. Journey takes us into “Untamed Iceland,” where San Anselmo writer and photographer Dave Bartruff finds that even a midsummer day requires coldweather gear, and staff writer Mimi Towle in Go urges us to “Jump In” to explore Hawaii’s wet and warm world of water sports.
Here in Marin, Think takes on the topic of the county’s homeless population. Writer Jeff Swenerton reports that the number of people forced onto the streets grew significantly during the recession, straining the resources of the public agencies and private organizations that feed, shelter and attempt to find long-term housing for those without homes. Tim Porter provides the photos.
Also in this issue, Conversation speaks with Nicolette Hahn Niman, author and wife of Bolinas cattle rancher Bill Niman; Marinterview questions San Rafael fashion designer Christopher Collins; Fashion Trends highlights some stellar stackable jewelry choices; and Microclimate visits the Novato neighborhood of Hamilton Field.
As always, our wish is for your good reading. Enjoy Marin Magazine , as we continue to celebrate this extraordinary place!
Lisa Shanower, Publisher
Nikki Wood, Editorial Director Jim Wood, Executive Editor
LETTERS
Readers respond
❯❯ Bag the Bags
REGARDING JIM WOOD’S POV, “Bag the Bags” (February, 2010): Plastic bags negatively effect the environment, so it is a good idea to limit their use. On the other hand, it is arguable whether or not paper bags (renewable and recyclable) have a significant negative effect on the environment, so limiting their use is not necessarily a good idea. The best way to limit their use is to add a fee. Wood says he is “immensely proud” of not using either plastic or paper bags and I salute him for that. However, I do not salute him for trying to impose his moral dictates on others by force of law.
Jack Mosher, Fairfax
❯❯ Best Doctors
I WAS DISAPPOINTED IN MARIN MAGAZINE’S “Best Doctors” article (February, 2010). This led me to seek the source of your data. “Best Doctors, inc.” has an impressive website, but I have never heard of this organization, nor have my partners at Mt. Tam Orthopedics—some with over 25 years of private practice. If readers wish to find the best doctor, they should ask their family physician for a referral. For the tech-savvy, they might go to the American Board of Medical Specialties (abms.org) or the American Academy of Orthopedic Surgeons website (aaos.org). Marin has a medical community with far greater depth and experience than other communities of this size.
David H. Goltz, M.D. Larkspur
THE PACIFIC FERTILITY CENTER’S February “Best Doctors” photo caption was incorrect. Correct order is: Philip Chenette, M.D., Carolyn Givens, M.D. (seated), Isabelle Ryan, M.D., Eldon Schriock, M.D. (seated) and Carl Herbert, M.D. Robb Mayberry, Director of Development, PFC
AFTER SPENDING OVER 30 YEARS as an operating room nurse and manager at Marin General Hospital, I expected to see familiar names on
your list of “2010’s Best Doctors” (February, 2010). However, I was shocked to find that of 400 doctors listed, only 26 practice in Marin. Either your survey is fatally flawed, or the physicians in Marin have very low opinions of each other. I don’t believe it is the latter.
Marlene Arild, Fairfax
Editors note: With a database of 50,000 exceptional physicians throughout the nation selected by their peers, Best Doctors, Inc. is a respected source and has been in existence for more than twenty years. Marin Magazine has developed a partnership with this organization to provide a service to readers who are choosing a Marin County or San Francisco specialist. Best Doctors, Inc. is open to input from the communities they cover. Marin Magazine will forward any inquiries from doctors who are interested in the process.
❯❯ Rules of the Trail
I WAS DISTRESSED to find the quote, “Nothing wakes you up in the morning like booking down a hill at 40mph and T-boning a deer,” among six pages of advertising in your February, 2010 issue. This insensitive copy was followed by a picture of a person clearly riding off trail. These behaviors are inconsitent with the International Mountain Biking Association’s (IMBA) “Rules of the Trail” which include: 1. Ride on open trails only. 2. Leave no trace. 3. Control your bicycle. 4. Yield to others. 5. Never scare animals. 6. Plan ahead. Specialized Bicycles is an IMBA Corporate Sponsor and knows better than to promote such irresponsible and destructive behavior. The ads convey an extremely negative image of Specialized Bicycles and they reflect poorly on Marin Magazine
Brett Powell, Mill Valley
Letters to the editor may be edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine , One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965. Or e-mail jwood@marinmagazine.com.
Vintage Oaks photos by Bob Morris Photography
Open Space Battles
SINCE 75 PERCENT OF MARIN is open space (some say 80 percent—whatever!), we should feel extremely blessed to have so much undeveloped land so close to a major city. Yet for years many Marin outdoor enthusiasts have argued bitterly over how to best enjoy this incredible good fortune.
Hikers say mountain bikers are reckless; bikers say hikers control all the good trails; equestrians say both fail to respect the sensitive nature of horses; and environmentalists maintain all three elements are damaging Marin’s precious (and fragile) open space.
Remember these lyrics from the musical Oklahoma:
Oh, the farmer and the cowman should be friends. One man likes to push a plow, the other likes to chase a cow. But that’s no reason why they can’t be friends. Territory folks should stick together, territory folks should all be pals. Substituting “Marin” for “territory,” I sang those lines to myself at a recent joint hearing of the Board of Supervisors and the county’s Open Space Commission. It was a sunny afternoon, more than 150 people attended, and
BY JIM WOOD
52 felt passionate enough to approach the microphone and let supervisors and commissioners know their views on the issues raging over Marin’s thousands of acres of open space.
Several bikers wanted designated “bicycle priority trails”; one hiker maintained that “mountain bikers don’t abide by the rules.” And so on. Although the discourse was mostly civil, it was surprisingly detailed and went on for longer than two hours. And the matter of dogs in open space areas never came up.
The critical factor for me, however, was that this hearing involved only the lands of Marin Open Space District which— with 14,000 acres in 33 preserves scattered throughout the county—is but one of five agencies overseeing Marin’s vast treasure of undeveloped land.
What about the others? Marin Municipal Water District manages 20,000 acres of watershed with 160 miles of unpaved roads and trails, most of which are on the east side of Mount Tam. The county also contains seven state parks totaling almost 14,000 acres, the largest being Mount Tamalpais, with 60 miles of trails mostly on the west slope. The Golden Gate National Recreation Area controls approximately 45,000 acres of Marin, stretching from Sausalito to Stinson Beach and including the Marin Headlands and the popular Tennessee Valley trail network. Finally, in West Marin the Point Reyes National Seashore has more than 33,000 acres crossed with 150 miles of unpaved roads and scenic trails.
These agencies have differing rules regarding mountain biking, hiking and equestrian use. And let’s be honest: who but the most avid Marin hiker/biker/runner/equestrian knows whether he or she’s on land controlled by the county, California State Parks,
the GGNRA, the MMWD or the Point Reyes National Seashore? Moreover, it is doubtful that any of these agencies has the wherewithal or the funding to enforce their rules.
That said, and after conferring with people far more involved than I, here are six commonsense trail courtesies that could easily apply to all Marin open spaces regardless of who controls them:
1. Whether hiking, biking or horseback riding, maintain an attitude of mutual respect and civility and always stay on established trails and fire roads.
2. Never hike, bike, run or ride on muddy trails. Such use creates deep ruts, wider trails and drainage issues.
3. All trail users should obey posted rules, especially those prohibiting bikers and equestrians from using narrow, single-track trails.
4. Regarding dogs, it’s best to “love ’em and leash ’em.” On narrow, single-track trails, leashes are required. On fire roads, firm voice control suffices. Disposal bags are always required. (Exception: dogs are not allowed on state park and GGNRA trails.)
5. When on a steep narrow trail, downhill hikers should give way to hikers headed uphill.
6. When approaching equestrians on either a wide trail or a fire road, hikers should acknowledge riders and yield and control dogs as needed; bikers should offer to dismount.
Please remember, these are not laws. They are common courtesies involving common sense. And as with so many aspects of our contemporary life, that may be all it takes to bring peace to the mountains . . . and friendship on the trail. That’s my point of view. What’s yours?
E-mail jwood@marinmagazine.com.
S PIRIT ROCK MEDITATION CENTER
Nestled in the rolling hills of Northern California, Spirit Rock offers a tranquil setting to calm the mind and rediscover our natural compassion and good will. We offer retreats, classes, one-day and evening programs rooted in the Buddhist Insight Meditation tradition. We actively celebrate diversity and welcome people from all traditions and backgrounds.
Spirit Rock invites you to engage in a growing community of people who appreciate the benefits of meditation and who wish to lead a more peaceful and happy life.
spiritrock.org
For more information on these and other Spirit Rock events, visit spiritrock.org and click on Calendar.
S PRING 2010 E VENTS
Chanting & Meditation: Entering the Still & Boundless Heart Jai Uttal & Debra Chamberlin-Taylor Sunday, March 21, 7:30 - 10 pm
The Many Moods of Metta (Lovingkindness) Sylvia Boorstein
Saturday, March 27 & Sunday, March 28, 9 am - 4 pm each day
Poetry of Silence –an Evening with Coleman Barks Upper Retreat Hall Coleman Barks & Geoffrey Gordon (music) Sunday, March 28, 7 - 10 pm
Women, Food & God: A Transformational Path Geneen Roth
Saturday, April 17, 11 am - 5 pm
Happiness & the Causes of Happiness
Tsoknyi Rinpoche & Sharon Salzberg Saturday, April 24, 9:30 am - 5 pm
To sail to the Great Pacific Garbage Patch
MARY T. CROWLEY, SAUSALITO "Last August, we sailed from Sausalito on the brigantine Kaisei. it took four days to reach the North Pacific Gyre, a place where currents coalesce about 600 miles northwest of Hawaii. The world’s oceans contain 11 gyres and eight of them are collecting garbage—the worst is the North Pacific Gyre. I’ve been sailing my entire life and have spent 30 years in the yacht chartering business. I love to see people have quality experiences on sailing ships. However, between thirty years ago and now there has been a huge proliferation of plastic in the Pacific. And—after rendezvousing with a Scripps Institute of Oceanography vessel and reaching our destination—we saw it. It wasn’t an enormous floating island, but free floating plastic scattered across a vast area. Because it wasn’t contiguous, like an island, we could cruise through it. There were a lot of ‘ghost nets,’ or abandoned fishing gear. We also saw a dead giant squid, a palm tree and plastic patio furniture, toys, even toothbrushes. It’s amazing how familiar the garbage was so far out in the ocean. Our goals were to bring back photos and familiarize people with what’s out there. We also wanted to experiment with possible solutions. We brought back about 1,400 pounds of garbage and are planning another voyage later this year. Information is available regarding Ocean Voyages Institute's Project Kaisei at projectkaisei.org.”
"What's It Like?" is a collection of first-person accounts from local people doing extraordinary things. Submit your own personal story for consideration for a future issue. For guidelines, e-mail jwood@marinmagazine.com.
UPPER LEFT: Kaisei crewmembers hauling in “ghost nets” and plastic from the North Pacific Gyre. ABOVE: The brigantine Keisai under full sail. AT RIGHT: Keisai skipper Mary T. Crowley of Sausalito at the helm.
this is billy. he’s six-and-a-quarter. has trouble being in class. would like a best friend.
The Marin Academic Center at Sunny Hills provides a nurturing, therapeutic education to children ages 5-14. For good kids, like Billy, who need a little extra help.
MARIN-BASED. COMMUNITY FOCUSED. Transforming the lives of vulnerable youth and their families since 1895. Serving Marin, Sonoma and Alameda counties through fifteen programs designed to meet the educational, mental health, housing and developmental needs of kids at-risk. To learn more about how you can help children realize better and brighter futures, please visit www.sunnyhillsservices.org or call 415-457-3200.
NEW DIGS
There’s a new place to put up outof-town guests: Larkspur Hotel Mill Valley. The former Holiday Inn Express near Frantoio has received a $3 million renovation. It boasts flat-screen televisions and an outdoor heated pool. 866.823.4669, larkspurhotelmillvalley.com
Extra Cash!
Need extra dough? Have old jewelry? Deleuse Jewelers in Tiburon can now purchase gold jewelry, coins and old gold parts for cash. 415.435.2484, shopdeleuse.com
When members of the Marin County Federal Credit Union took out holiday loans last fall, $10 was donated each time to the Marin Community Food Bank in Novato. Donations added up quickly and the food bank has just received a $500 check!
Hats off to Lei Ann Werner and Alain Pinel Realtors, who collected over 1,000 pairs of socks, coats and clothing for Ritter House.
Special congrats to local great white shark-bite survivor
Jonathan Kathrein, who has authored his second book (this time with his mom, Margaret), Far From Shore. The book shares the story of how Margaret dealt with her son’s attack. farfromshorethebook.com
COULD YOU BE A MENTOR? If you can devote a year to working one-on-one with a high school student, the Marin Education Fund needs you. Mentors will help students with the college and financial aid process. For more information contact Chase Finney at 415.451.4016, marineducationfund.com
One Big Book Club in Marin
Once again, One Book One Marin has selected a stellar novel, but this time it also happens to be Pulitzer Prize–winning. Michael Chabon’s The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay follows artist Joe Kavalier, who smuggles himself out of Prague and arrives in New York in 1939, and his 17-year-old cousin Sammy Clay. The two work together on a new comic book series and make it big with their superhero, the Escapist. With money in his pocket, Joe attempts to bring his family over from Prague but his brother perishes on the trip, sparking a series of events that changes Joe’s life. Praise for the novel includes “hard to imagine it being any better written” and “characters so highly developed they could
walk off the page,” as well as a “novel of towering achievement.”
Like one big book club, One Book One Marin will feature programs throughout the county to stimulate discussions about the book and create an open dialogue. For more information on events such as a lecture by the author Michael Chabon, go to onebookonemarin.org
Fun on the Go
No need to leave home for fun. Certified children’s yoga instructor and former speech pathologist Marilyn LoRusso now brings classes in baby sign language, art, yoga and fitness to Marin homes. Her new company, Kids’ Fun on the Go, has classes for ages two months to nine years old in sessions of four to six weeks. 415.816.3212, kidsfunonthego.com
Fairfax Is Ready to Dance
After 17 years of teaching Marinites everything from ballet to hip hop, Mill Valley’s RoCo Dance and Fitness now has a second location in Fairfax. The new 4,000-square-foot facility, which has three dance studios and a performance space, will be a welcome addition for the nearly 1,100 dancers that have attended the original Mill Valley RoCo. rocodance.com
Let Them Eat Cake
Indulge in southern red velvet, cherry pie and old-fashioned sixlayer chocolate cake at L.A. favorite SusieCakes—now open in Greenbrae. The home-style bakery creates classic treats from scratch, including its signature frosting-filled cupcakes. 310 Bon Air Center (Greenbrae). 415.461.2253, susiecakesla.com
It Takes a Village
With nothing more than a good idea and the conviction to spend three years working on it, Tiburon resident Heather Staples and three other California women have written and produced (in collaboration with the Nature Conservancy) a collection of 18 songs and stories that teach kids about the changes happening to the planet. The women convinced more than 20 singers and actors, including Joan Osborne and Matt Ross of HBO’s Big Love, to donate their time and perform on the CD. All the net profits support the Nature Conservancy.
Their website also offers activities for kids like a petition about protecting the penguins to circulate and mail to the White House; a Going Green Family Pledge and fun recycling challenges.
The CD is available from Amazon, iTunes and mychangingplanet.com
ANNIVERSARY PARTY
This year Marin’s own Lily Samii is celebrating 40 years since establishing her business in Larkspur, and 20 years since launching her namesake clothing label. The designer started her career studying French dressmaking and apprenticed with designer Edith Head and James Galanos before making it big on her own. lilysamii.com
Robert H. Byers, MD
Lisa M. Elvin, NP
Jon R. Goff, MD
David H. Goltz, MD
John C. Keohane, MD
Michael J. Oechsel, MD
Ernest H. Sponzilli, MD
Michael S. Stock, MD
Charles A. Stuart, MD
Brian W. Su, MD
On the spring runways, Chanel, Lanvin and Balenciaga all featured layered and stacked jewelry to complement their 2010 collections. Broken down into individual pieces, the jewels stand on their own, but together they add a new dimension to your well-worn fashions.
1. Elliott Chandler Designs 18k white gold bangle bracelets with diamonds at Elliott Chandler (SF). 800.786.8822, elliottchandler.com
3. Tiffany & Co. gold filigree ring, $950; blue enamel and 18k gold ring, $2,200; 18k diamond and turquoise band ring, $1,800; at Tiffany & Co. (SF). 415.781.7000, tiffany.com
— SOMER FLAHERTY
4. Alix & Co. 22k gold ring with white diamonds, $3,200; 18k yellow gold cylinder ring, $575; 14k rose gold ring sprinkled with colored and white diamonds, $1,800 at Alix & Co. Fine Jewelry (Mill Valley). 415.380.0880, alixandcompany.com
6. Kathleen Dughi Jeweler platinum, 18k yellow, green and rose gold stacking bands with colored diamonds, $2,250 to $5,500 at Kathleen Dughi Jeweler (Mill Valley). 415.383.0462, kathleendughi.com
7. Mirage Jewels, Anna Beck sterling silver and 18k solid gold, sterling silver and simulated sapphires, bracelets, $398 for the set. Mirage Jewels (Corte Madera). 415.927.3939
8. Sofia White diamond eternity band by Manak, $1,050; rose gold band by Stephany Hitchcock, $930; black diamond eternity band by Manak, $1,050; yellow gold band by Stephany Hitchcock, $930; yellow diamond eternity band by Manak, $1,125; yellow gold band by Stephany Hitchcock, $1,295; available at Sofia (Mill Valley). 415.388.8776, sofiajewelry.com
9. Meadowlark Gallery Blue topaz 18k ring, $645; diamond pavé 18k ring, $855; citrine 18k ring, $635; all by Marco Bicego at Meadowlark Gallery (Corte Madera). 415.924.2210, meadowlarkgalleries.com
Christopher Collins
Fashion designer and Southern California native Christopher Collins lives on a hill in Marin, with his partner, J.J. Beck, two dogs and a gorgeous black Australorp chicken named Bella. From here he can see where his grandparents lived, a place he visited as a child, and just down the street is the dance studio where his mom took ballet. “I love it here; we both have hectic work schedules and Marin is the ideal antidote,” he says. After working as a visual merchandiser for Neiman Marcus while a student at San Francisco State University, he moved to L.A. to work in the business. Two years ago, he and his lifelong friend (they met at Park Dale Lane Elementary school in Encinitas) Erica Tanamachi moved to the Bay Area to start his namesake collection. Collins credits their partnership for the success. Read on to learn more about him, and see part of his collection on page 52. —M.T.
What inspires you here in Marin? Now I appreciate the green mountains spotted with trees and the occasional deer, the enormous moody clouds that are constantly passing through, and the water. Perhaps it’s from growing up on the beach, but I love being around water in motion.
If you were to open a boutique in Marin, where would it be? it would be in Sausalito because I’d love a view of the city over the bay.
What inspired you to become a fashion designer? It’s a craft I’ve been inspired by, and then during a fashion/sewing class at SFSU I realized that I could make it my career. Perhaps most inspirational was learning operatic amounts about the industry from dress designer Tadashi Shoji.
Why does your partnership work? I design clothes, and as a former filmmaker, Erica is trained to pull together threads to make a story. Her great grandfather was Frank Loyd Wright, and the funny thing is my grandma’s house was a sort of tribute to Wright’s work. At times it feels like our partnership has been predestined.
What is never out of style? Lipstick.
What should never be in style? Crocs.
Where do you see yourself in five years, 10 years…20? I am very passionate about using the skills that come naturally to me in a greater capacity to make a positive impact on society. For instance, I would like to eventually form a fund or foundation that a portion of our annual proceeds would go into. This money would go toward helping AIDS/HIV relief in places like Africa and women’s rights groups. Currently we are speaking with and researching appropriate organizations with which to join forces.
What “label” are you comfortable with as a designer? The category we fall into most is “contemporary couture” or luxury sportswear.
Style-wise, men in Marin could…I’m not sure; otherwise I’d take the advice myself!
Style-wise, women in Marin could… Embrace their body. Dress for the occasion and most of all for themselves. My focus as a designer is to provide styles for women that look age-appropriate and take them through their day feeling good about their self-image.
Have you found your favorite restaurant in Marin yet? I’m still exploring, but so far I’m hooked on Sol Food in San Rafael.
How do you want to be remembered?
Since my clothes will outlast me, I’d like to be remembered through others’ experience of wearing my designs. I am drawn to texture and the sensation of fabrics, so wearing my pieces provokes a woman to feel positive and beautiful…and also to remembered as a really nice guy.
Pull out this catalog for a unique Northern California shopping experience, featuring some of our favorite local artisans, designers, and merchants. The Marin Store: buy local, shop simple.
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Marin Schools Lead in Green
BY MIMI TOWLE
THREE YEARS AGO we reported on green efforts by Marin schools, highlighting Kentfield School District’s distinction as first in the nation to go solar and a handful of other schools that were moving away from wasteful, unhealthy lunch programs, toxic cleaners and pesticides. Today, sustainable lunch and recycling programs, energy conservation, awareness of chemicals and reducing carbon emissions are de rigueur in county schools. In fact, on that score, says Superintendent Mary Jane Burke, Marin schools are nationally ahead of the curve. “We have a community that believes and invests in our schools and public infrastructure,” she points out. Marin has taken the lead
Sinclaire Parer and Caitlyn Reynolds watch as Maggie McCallister pitches in with San Domenico’s composting efforts.
in the areas of innovative recycling, transportation congestion reduction, and now green business practices.
“Schools throughout Marin County are embracing green practices in how they operate their facilities and in supporting environmentally friendly activities for students, staff and families,” she says. Some of the newer measures include zero-waste lunch programs, organic gardens, water-reducing turf for athletic fields, green teen clubs and encouraging kids to carpool, walk or ride their bikes to school. The Mill Valley School District even has sustainability woven into its mission: “We prepare our students to be responsible, contributing members of our community and wise stewards of our natural environment.” The Bolinas-Stinson Union School District similarly pledges to be “a school that models sustainable practices, compassion and individual responsibility.”
Farther up 101, the Green Schools Coalition of Novato, which includes 13 public schools plus Novato Charter School, has adopted ecofriendlier practices ever since dealing with an indoor air quality issue back in 2001. Students now are not only eating farm-fresh food for lunch and following the reduce-reuse-recycle credo; they also breathe better air since schools stopped disinfecting with bleach and started using Green Seal Certified cleaning supplies. “One of the most important steps we’ve taken lately is school gardens,” adds district nutrition director Miguel Villarreal. “With the help of Novato Live Well, a parent organization, the district received nearly $40,000 in state grants that enabled us to create a food garden in every school.”
Private schools have likewise stepped up to the plate. While sustainability and stewardship might be expected of Waldorf-inspired programs like Greenwood in Mill Valley, more traditional institutions are thinking big as well. San Domenico in Sleepy Hollow, the state’s oldest independent school, earned another “-est” this year for having the largest school-based solar installation: 2,358 photovoltaic panels covering an area nearly the size of a football field. “While we are excited to be running electricity generated at our school,” says Head of School Mathew Heersche, “it is just one of the steps we’ve taken towards eco-responsibility.” Others include a WRAP-award-winning recycling program, energy-efficient gym lights and lunchtime composting.
Another green leader is Saint Marks School in Terra Linda, where science teacher Diane Bredt leads the charge. “We have made great progress in the last three years,” she says. “It all began with an audit by Lauralee Barbaria (Dean of the Green MBA program at Domincan University). Being able to quantify the energy, water (use) and waste enabled us to start the process and, most importantly, got administration and staff on board.”
A lighting audit prepared by the seventh graders (with Barbaria’s help) identified all the school’s lights by type and used a spreadsheet to determine how much energy might be saved by changing over to energy-efficient bulbs. Students presented their findings to the headmaster, facilities director and board and convinced them the switch was worth the investment. Cost to parents? Nothing, thanks to a grant from the Donner Foundation.
Horizon School in Mill Valley. “It’s been going just fine,” says school president Ros Hamar. “People take it as part of the routine.” Good Earth Natural Foods in Fairfax provides organic, locally produced meals; the students bring in their own dishes, which go home with them to wash. “One of our core values has always been the environment,” Hamar explains. “We teach (that) at every grade level: for instance, our first grade collects batteries to recycle, second and third graders raise fingerling salmon in incubators to release in nearby creeks, fourth and fifth (graders) participate in trail maintenance.”
Plus, aided by a $15,000 community grant from Ghilotti Construction, the school literally turned a gray concrete play area green by making it a native butterfly habitat area. The school also hired Clean Air Lawn Care to care for the grounds. And this semester it committed to the goal of zerotrash lunches.
A no-trash policy has been in place for at least 10 years at Marin
Meanwhile, 10 Marin schools—most recently Walker Creek Ranch and Montessori de Terra Linda—have received Bay Area Green Business certification, and several more are working toward it, says Dana Armanino, green business coordinator for the county. “By getting the certification, the schools can demonstrate that not only have they taken the steps and committed to these green practices, but their efforts have been verified by an outside source.” To qualify, Montessori de Terra Linda had to satisfy a checklist of more than 100 requirements that included adding fluorescent lights and Energy Star equipment, reducing landfill waste, and conserving water via low-flow toilets and drought-tolerant plants.
All these changes aren’t only seen as planet-savers; they save money, too. “It’s not just about following a trend of being green,” says Superintendent Burke. “These efforts are about teaching our children responsible and sustainable habits for a lifetime.”
Close-up of a specially constructed pile of wood bark at Saint Marks’s butterfly habitat
After four years of running the Marin-based nonprofit Cool the Earth, a climate change behavior-change program, Carleen Cullen and her crew are happy to report that 95 schools (45 in Marin) have signed up with their program. “As kids are taught more about respecting the environment both through their school’s green practices and by engaging with programs like Cool the Earth, their heightened awareness naturally spills over to their families and the community,” says Cullen. “This instills in them lifelong energy conservation habits, which will inspire a more sustainable future.” Here is an update on what some of the greener schools in Marin are doing to shrink their carbon footprint.
SCHOOL NAME SCHOOL GARDEN?
Tam Valley Elem., Mill Valley YesYesYesYesNoYes, student
Wade Thomas Elem., San Anselmo YesYesYes
Lu Sutton Elem., Novato Yes
Actively working on it. NoYes, student
Working on it; had worms last year. YesYes
Our fountains are solar. Both
Sun Valley Elem., San Rafael YesNot yetYesGetting closeNot yetYes, parent
Manor School, Fairfax YesYesYesYes, both
Ross Elem., Ross YesYesYesTrying!NoYes, parent
Dixie Elem., San Rafael YesYes
Rancho Elem., Novato Yes
Yes. Teachers and parents built three worm bins.
Yes and CRV recycling as well. Yes
Yes. A student recycling club monitors bins.
Solar has been purchased and will be installed this Spring. Yes, both
Yes. Sold “Laptop Lunches” at a discount and reusable water bottles. Not yet!Yes, both
Bel Aire Elem., Tiburon YesYes YesNoNoYes, parent
Brandeis Hillel Day School, San Rafael YesYesYesNoNoYes, student
Hamilton School, Novato Yes
Yes. Worm containers constructed by local Eagle Scouts. YesCloseNoYes, student
BY SOMER FLAHERTY | Designing your home doesn’t have to mean downplaying the environment. There are more eco-friendly furniture designs on the market now than ever before. Whether you aim for organic fabrics,
1. Rug by ADK Carpets, $390 at The Marin Store. 888.408.2105, themarinstore.com 2. Lamp by Form3, $425 at The Marin Store. 888.408.2105, themarinstore.com
3. Rose Dining Table by Barlas Baylar, price available upon request at Hudson Furniture, hudsonfurnitureinc.com
4. Plank Chair by Ron Mann Design, price available upon request, available at Ron Mann Design (Sonoma). 707.935.3991, ronmanndesign.com
NATURAL + BEAUTY
REUSABLE SHOPPING BAGS
BY JIM WOOD |
Why wait for Marin to ban those ubiquitous paper and plastic bags? With these colorful and reusable cloth totes, grocery shopping becomes a trip to a farmer’s market in France. Warning: Don’t let price (or forgetfulness) keep you from going green—Marin’s markets, United to Boardwalk, have reusable bags available starting at 99 cents.
Make a statement with these catchy yet practical totes
1. Woodlands Market (Kentfield) 415.457.8160; Cost Plus World Market (Greenbrae) 415.924.7743; Earthsac available at The Container Store (Corte Madera) 415.945.9755; Whole Foods (Mill Valley) 415.381.1200.
2. Recycled plastic bottles tote (Marin) 800.518.0740; White House Black Market (Corte Madera) 415.924.7138; The Spanish Table (Mill Valley) 415.388.5043; Mollie Stones (Sausalito) 415.331.6900.
3. Dean and Deluca (St. Helena) 707.967.9980; Main Street Mom’s tote and hand-painted bag for produce (Point Reyes Station) 415.663.1709; Marin Organic (Point Reyes Station) 415.663.9667; Ferry Plaza (SF) purchase this tote at either the Thursday or Saturday Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.
MASS
......furnishings more entertaining than the show! These are just a sampling of our MASSive selection.
NICOLETTE HAHN NIMAN
From New York to Bolinas … and from vegetarian to cattle rancher. BY JIM WOOD
When I was an attorney, living and working in Manhattan,” confesses Nicolette Hahn Niman (pronounced “nigh–man”), “I mean, I had lots of pairs of high heels. Now I don’t wear them at all.” And that’s just one (albeit rather insignificant) transformation the 42-year-old native of Kalamazoo, Michigan, has undergone in the past decade. Ten years ago, Hahn Niman was working closely with Robert F. Kennedy Jr. and the environmental leader’s well-respected Waterkeeper Alliance; seven years ago, the vegetarian met and married Bill Niman, the legendary Bolinas cattle rancher whose grass-fed beef appears on myriad high-end restaurant menus; six years ago she made the aforementioned exodus from New York City to West Marin; a year ago she published her first book, Righteous Porkchop: Finding a Life and Good Food Beyond Factory Farms; and nine months ago she gave birth to Miles, a smiling, somedaysure-to-be-strapping ranch hand.
These days, whether or not to wear heels never figures into Hahn Niman’s rather crowded to-do list. “Three days after I gave the last talk on my book tour,” she says, “I was out doing ranch work when my water broke. Miles was on his way.” A year earlier—again when she was on the ranch working—the phrase “righteous pork chop” popped into her head as the perfect title for her almost-completed book. “The original name was ‘An Unlikely Cowgirl,’ but that implied the book was mostly about me, which it never was,” she explains. Her newer choice, to her, “makes it clear the book is about meat, and suggests that meat can be produced in a way that is righteous, ethically humane and environmentally sound.”
In addition to Porkchop, since moving to Bolinas Hahn Niman has had four op-ed pieces published in the New York Times, several of her book reviews have appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle, she contributes regularly to the Huffington Post, and she and Bill have a blog presence with The Atlantic She feels her book has “some overlap” with such recent titles as Barbara Kingsolver’s Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, Michael Pollan’s Omnivore’s Dilemma and Jonathan Safran Foer’s Eating Animals
How did working with an environmental group in New York lead to your living on a cattle ranch in Bolinas? Waterkeeper Alliance was (and still is) a nationwide organization concerned with, among other things, the pollution of rivers and bays by large agriculture operations. A few weeks after I
went to work there, Bobby Kennedy asked me to head up a nationwide campaign to address livestock pollution. At first I wasn’t too enthusiastic about working full time on, well, poop—because that’s what it was all about: pollution caused by animal manure. Regardless, I went to Missouri
and North Carolina and large farms in the Midwest that were causing both environmental and odor-related problems. After a few months of working on the issue, I came back and told Bobby that if we just focused on suing and trying to shut down bad livestock operations, we were going to be attacked for not being constructive, simply anti-meat. I told him we needed a few positive models, farms and ranches that were raising animals the right way. Bobby agreed, so I surveyed the people across the country I was working with on this issue—and the name Niman Ranch kept coming up. I then started talking with their ranchers and staff and eventually I met Bill. And eventually, we got to know each other personally. And eventually, we got married. Now I live and work on a ranch.
Before meeting your cattle rancher husband, you said you were a vegetarian—are you still? Yes, but I don’t think it’s wrong for humans to eat meat. For me, it’s just a personal dietary decision. I think my views on this have been formed by my life experience. Back in my childhood, my father and I walked in the woods almost every day, and that’s where I learned about nature and its cycles and the role they both play in the lives of animals. In addition, since being a biology major in college, I’ve pretty much understood the world in (terms of) the way its natural rhythms and systems work. Over the last couple of years, I’ve frequently heard it suggested that meat was, you know, sinful, it is bad, it’s evil. And to look at much of the modern meat industry, you cannot blame people for saying that. Yet, that’s not the only way to raise animals and produce meat. And the more time I’ve spent here on the ranch, the more those childhood and college lessons have come back to me. I mean every day, literally I see a turkey vulture eating a rabbit carcass, a bobcat hunting gophers, a raven eating an egg it had taken from a nest somewhere. So it kept striking me over and over again how so much of nature is about animals eating other animals, whether they’re hunters or scavengers.
You’ve now lived
ranch almost seven years. What are your obser-
vations? Marin is an amazing place, especially for its natural beauty and its commitment to agriculture. Bill always says that years ago, thanks to folks like MALT (Marin Agricultural Land Trust), there was the political will to save farming and ranching in West Marin. We’re now raising 300 head of cattle and around 100 heritage turkeys on about 1,000 acres of the Point Reyes National Seashore land. To be honest, it’s a struggle to be profitable around here. Everything is so expensive and there’s little slaughtering and processing capacity closeby. And of course we have to bring in things like gas for tractors, hay, and feed for the turkeys. So it’s difficult to make a living without some supplemental income.
Any thoughts about Marin as a place to live?
As for the lifestyle, it’s really been interesting. With (my) having moved (here) from the center of Manhattan, one would think that would feel like an extreme difference. But surprisingly, it really wasn’t that much of a shift because West Marin has this eclectic, sophisticated, worldly group of people and there’s so much going on as far as the arts and culture are concerned. I have never lived in a place where so many people are involved in artistic expression, especially here in Bolinas. Almost everyone I know here either paints, or writes poetry, or they’re in a musical group. A year after moving here, I started singing at St. Aidan’s Episcopal Church doing solos, and then was asked to join a small baroque instrumental group as their vocalist. Now I’m very involved with the church, and with local music, and enjoying it a great deal. I also continue to be awed by Marin County’s natural beauty. I first came here in the early ’90s when I was in law school, and remember driving to Stinson Beach and telling my friends as we drove along Route One, “This is the most beautiful place I’ve ever been in my life.” And the smell of eucalyptus, it was so intoxicating. I also appreciate the people here; they’re incredibly tolerant of individuality. And I like being able to go almost anywhere dressed in jeans. My high heels are now definitely in retirement.
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THE WHITES
OF SPRING
HAIR & MAKEUP MAURICIO LEMUS/FORD ARTISTS MODEL ELIZABETH RAE/FORD MODELS SHOT AT THE HISTORIC ICB BUILDING IN SAUSALITO, A CREATIVE WORKSPACE FOR A VIBRANT COMMUNITY OF ARTISTS, AND ARTIST SUZIE BUCHHOLZ’S ICB STUDIO. ALL PAINTINGS SHOWN ARE BY SUZIE BUCHHOLZ.
For inquiries about the art included, contact Suzie Buchholz: 415.331.2333, suziebuchholz.com
PHOTOS SASHA GULISH EDITOR/STYLIST SOMER FLAHERTY ASSISTANT STYLIST LEAH MARIE
Dress by Milly, $340 at Green Apples (Sausalito). 415.331.8227. Carolyn flat by ANYI LU, $375 at Nordstrom (Corte Madera) 415.927.1690. Ring by Pico and Salsa, $8 at Evo Spa (Mill Valley) 415.383.3223
Bracelet by Kukuda, $22 at Waterlilies (Mill Valley) 415.383.2782.
Opposite Havana Jumpsuit by TYSA, $184 at Blanc (San Anselmo) 415.485.0104. Tobago Tank by TYSA, $87 at Blanc. Narrow stingray cuff bracelet, $450-$495 at Sausalito Jewelers (Sausalito) 415.331.2100. Romy ballet flat by Tory Burch, $235 at Tory Burch (SF) 415.398.1525. Art: Work in Progress, 50” x 120” and After the Mistral, 50” x 75”. This page, left Leah sleeveless coat by Tory Burch, $325 at Tory Burch. Tobago Tank by Tysa, $87 at Blanc. Pants by Martin + Osa, available at Martin + Osa (Corte Madera) 415.924.2751. Bracelet by Kukuda, $22 at Waterlilies. Carolyn flat by ANYI LU, $375 at Nordstrom. Art: Sunday in Provence, 79”x 52”. This page, right Shirt by Ever, $154 at The Store (Mill Valley) 415.888.8796. Shorts by Ever, $165 at The Store. Shoes by Tory Burch, $165 at Item Shoes (Larkspur) 415.925.0109. Bag by Hobo, available at Viva Diva (San Rafael) 415.256.8380. Vintage woven orange belt. Art: Almost Heaven, 75” x 50”, 415-331-2333, suziebuchholz.com.
Sailor top by Christopher Collins, $210 at Christopher Collins Boutique (SF) 415.440.2464. Denim trouser by Christopher Collins, $275 at Christopher Collins. Tulip heels by ANYI LU, $365 at Nordstrom. Coral cuff, $1,350 at Kokopelli Gallery (Sausalito) 415.331.0800. Art: Earthly Treasures, 12” x 9” each piece, 415-3312333, suziebuchholz.com
Opposite page Fable blazer by Trina Turk, $316 at Sandbox (Greenbrae) 415.461.2133, Tie by Zegna, $185 at Gene Hiller (Sausalito) 415.332.3636. Pants by Norman Ambrose, $1,850 at Neiman Marcus (SF) 415.362.3900. Rena gold clutch by Calleen Cordero, $294 at Embodies (Larkspur) 415.461.6462. This page Dress by Tibi, $495 at Macy’s (SF) 415.397.3333. Art: Sainte Victoire, 75” x 50”, 415-3312333, suziebuchholz.com
Opposite Vixen Maillot J’Adornment detailed bathing suit by Malia Mills, $325 to $525 at Malia Mills (Larkspur) 800.685.3479. Jeweled necklace by K Carlson, $120 at K Carlson (SF) 512.470.5974. Maroon wrap by Matta, $160 at Waterlilies. This Page Dress by Alabama Chanin, $1,082 at Embodies. Wrap by Alabama Chanin, $756 at Embodies. Belt by Alabama Chanin, $315. Cuff available at Embodies. Ring, $3 at Evo Spa. On Table of Contents Cover-up by Shoshana, $220 at Pearl (Larkspur) 415.464.1808. Necklace by Nicole Schumann, $278 at Pearl. Sunglasses by Persol, $205 at ILORI Luxury Sunglass Boutique (SF) 415.398.4148.
THINK Homeless, in Marin IN THE
LAND OF PLENTY, THERE ARE PLENTY WITHOUT HOMES
Homelessness in Marin is often called an invisible issue, and it’s easy to understand why.
The county is 85 percent open space and there are as many places to live out of sight as there are homeless. But the problem is there, and much bigger in scope than the occasional street-corner panhandler. Look in the shelters, in the free kitchens and in the church halls—caring places where a half dozen public agencies and even more private organizations keep the homeless fed, temporarily housed, and attached, however tenuously, to a strained social safety net.
At last count, in January 2009, there were 1,770 people homeless in Marin and at least 3,000 others on verge of becoming so, numbers
BY JEFF SWENERTON
aid workers believe fall far short of reflecting reality. For 90 percent of the homeless, the last permanent housing was in Marin. Most live in San Rafael, Novato and Sausalito. More than half are white, three quarters are single, 60 percent are male and 334 are children.
Many of the homeless rely on friends and family to keep them off the streets. Others play a daily game of housing roulette, seeking a bed in limited shelter space. Many camp in the hills surrounding San Rafael and Mount Tamalpais. Some sleep in parks. Some live in their cars, and an industrious few anchor out in Richardson Bay off Sausalito. And some, sadly, die on the streets—139 since 1998, according to a 2009 civil grand jury report titled “Marin’s Homeless: The ‘Invisible’ Problem That Won’t Disappear.”
The primary cause for all this misery isn’t mental illness or drug and alcohol abuse, but simply not having enough money to pay the bills.
PHOTOS TIM PORTER
Homeless men bed down for the night on the floor of a Novato church, one of several that are part of Marin’s temporary winter shelter system. OPPOSITE : Leaving the St. Vincent de Paul Society kitchen in San Rafael for a van ride to the shelter.
The January 2009 survey found that more than 90 percent of homeless families and 80 percent of single adults “suffer from nothing more than poverty and lack of low-income housing.” Nearly 40 percent cited job loss as the reason for their homelessness.
Many of the homeless have an income, either from a job or a social service payment, but still can’t afford Marin’s high rents, says Lisa Sepahi, a homelessness analyst for the county. People in general “don’t have a clear understanding of the problem,” she adds. “The reality is we have people who are families, working people, the people you see at Starbucks who are sleeping in their car. A lot of people have an income but it’s not enough.”
The recession made matters worse. The county saw “a 30 to 40 percent spike
in the demand for homeless services since September 2008,” largely because of the imploded job market, the grand jury found.
Diane Linn, executive director of Ritter Center, a San Rafael organization that provides food, health services and showers for the homeless, says “the economy has sent people into homelessness” for the first time. “For these newly homeless the humiliation is pretty intense.”
The pool of jobs, particularly in the construction industry, has shrunk, making it harder for those hoping to pull themselves out of homelessness. Competition for work can be intense; former union tradesmen who once commanded $30 an hour now jostle for work with traditional day laborers for $10-an-hour jobs.
THE COUNTY SAW “A 30 TO 40 PERCENT SPIKE IN THE DEMAND FOR HOMELESS SERVICES SINCE SEPTEMBER 2008,” LARGELY BECAUSE OF THE IMPLODED JOB MARKET.
“You used to be able to go and find a job in a day, and you can’t do that anymore,” says Chris Smith, a quiet 35-year-old man who grew up in Fairfax. His usual fallback was warehouse work, but he says those jobs have dried up. He’s been homeless for 10 years and hasn’t looked seriously for work since June.
Smith sometimes eats at the St. Vincent de Paul Society dining hall on B Street in San Rafael, which deserves most of the credit for keeping Marin’s homeless fed. The hall provides breakfast at 6:30 and lunches of soup, stew and salads at 11—about 350 meals a day. Most of the food is donated by the Marin Food Bank and local grocery stores.
Everyone is welcome as long as they behave, says Executive Director Steve Boyer, a friendly man with a seen-it-all smile. He
estimates half the diners have some form of income and are staying with friends or living in their cars.
THE SHELTER SYSTEM
Homeward Bound is Marin’s primary provider of homeless housing services. Since 1986, the agency has run an emergency shelter on Mill Street in San Rafael and operates a dozen other facilities for individuals and families. Altogether, it houses more than 400 people for varying lengths of time.
Mill Street accepts people on a day-today basis and charges $3 a night for a bed. As the economy worsened, the shelter began to fill every night. Last year, it added cots to the dining room and converted couches into sleeping spaces, bumping capacity from 40 to 55. Mill Street doesn’t ac-
COMPETITION FOR WORK CAN BE INTENSE; FORMER UNION TRADESMEN WHO ONCE COMMANDED $30 AN HOUR NOW JOSTLE FOR WORK WITH DAY LABORERS FOR $10-AN-HOUR JOBS.
ABOVE : At a San Anselmo church, parishioners and a group of homeless men, their bedding already laid out, stand in a prayer circle before a dinner made by the church is served. OPPOSITE AND TOP : Three of the men using the shelter, from left: Albert, Patrick and Pat.
STAN WILSON, A 53-YEAR-OLD FORMER TRUCK DRIVER, PREFERS TO CAMP DURING THE SUMMER ON MOUNT TAM:
“I’D RATHER BE WITH THE MOUNTAIN LIONS AND THE RACCOONS. AT LEAST YOU
TOP , FROM LEFT : Stan Wilson, a former truck driver, now homeless; Yvonne Wild, once a paramedic, then homeless for two years before finding part-time work as a monitor for the women’s winter shelter program; dinner made by volunteers from a Marin church. RIGHT : Kelly Farrell, 25, of Corte Madera, prepares her bed for the night.
KNOW WHAT THEIR INTENTIONS ARE.”
cept anyone who’s drunk or on drugs. Those who show up smelling of alcohol or acting high might be taken to the Helen Vine Detox Center on Smith Ranch Road or simply be turned away. Bob Puett, deputy director of Homeward Bound, says the rule enables residents to sleep undisturbed and keeps those trying to stay sober away from temptation.
Other homeless advocates say the restriction limits care, arguing that emergency shelters can get people into the system for longer-term treatment. Marin County’s Ten Year Homeless Plan, released in May 2006 (and largely ignored since, the ’09 grand jury found), recommends establishing a “wet” or open shelter that welcomes people without requiring them to commit to quitting alcohol and drugs.
The Marin Emergency Winter Shelter program, a project of St. Vincent’s and several churches, operates makeshift shelters in a dozen churches. Each evening from December to April, vans gather up 30 men and 20 women from St. Vincent’s and take them to separate churches, where a warm meal prepared by parishioners, and sometimes a movie, await.
One recipient on a rainy night in January at a San Anselmo church was Stan Wilson, a 53-year-old former truck driver with an enormous bushy mustache who has been homeless “off and on” for two years. He says he uses the shelter in the winter, but prefers to camp during the summer on Mount Tam: “I’d rather be with the mountain lions and the raccoons. At least you know what their intentions are.”
Chris Highland, a former Protestant minister partial to wearing a baseball cap and running shoes, directs the program. “Where a shelter might be a cruise ship, this is a temporary lifeboat,” he says. It provides a roof during the cold and rainy season, but it isn’t a long-term answer.
While shelters offer relief, they cannot get people to self-sufficiency, advocates say. “Sheltering isn’t the solution,” says Paul Fordham, development director of Homeward Bound. “Housing is the solution. Sheltering perpetuates the lifestyle; we need to get people to housing.”
When Homeward Bound ran emergency shelters for 10 years at the National Guard Armory in San Rafael, three quarters of the homeless would return each winter. Today, that number is about half, Highland says.
NEED FOR AFFORDABLE HOUSING
Few openly endorse the single-room occupancy (SRO) housing model prevalent in urban areas for Marin, but Boyer from St. Vincent’s believes that building supportive housing to serve single people, the biggest demographic among the homeless, is crucial. “We need more of the most inexpensive housing,” he says “We don’t need any more 7,000-square-foot homes; we need more that are 500 square feet.”
There are no traditional SROs in Marin and there is only one residential hotel, the Wilkins Hotel, on Fourth Street in San Rafael, which charges $550 a month for a studio with a shared bathroom.
“Housing first” is also the mantra of those who believe substance-abuse and mental-health treatment can only be administered properly in a residential facility, and that it’s the first step in treating the chronically homeless.
Marin has a woeful record, though, of building affordable housing. An August 2009 report by the nonprofit law firm Public Advocates found that in order to afford Marin’s median monthly rent ($1,442 in 2006), a household needs an income of $57,672. But the median household income of local renters falls well short of that—$50,272 in 2006. A significant gap remains between those who
TOP : Chris Highland, director of the winter shelter program. ABOVE : A volunteer serves lunch at St. Vincent’s. BELOW : Bob Puett, deputy director of Homeward Bound.
must have affordable housing in order to live here and its supply, the report said; Marin provided just 43 percent of the needed affordable housing in the last eight years. Indeed, out of 107,000 houses and apartments in Marin, only about 6,500 have income restrictions for eligible residents, says the Marin Community Development Agency, most of them in Novato and San Rafael.
St. Vincent’s provides an example of how small housing can work. Upstairs from the kitchen, it has eight residential units that rent for $450 to $750 a month. One occupant is Yvonne Wild, 60, a former Oakland paramedic who went to New Orleans in 2005 as part of the Katrina relief effort, then returned home to find her husband gone and their bank ac-
counts empty. All she had left was the $12 cash in her pocket. She ended up at the San Rafael shelter on Mill Street, where she met Gary Wild. Six months later, they got married under a large tree in Albert Park. The couple lived in the hills for more than two years, dodging police who would ticket them for camping, which carries a $368 fine.
“So you constantly have to go higher, deeper in, and then it takes forever to get back,” Wild says. “When we were in the canyon we crossed creeks and everything else, and when a really big downpour hit we were stuck there for like three days because we couldn’t get out.”
Wild now works part time as a monitor in the winter shelter system. “I’m so grateful for
STEVE BOYER SAYS, “WE DON’T NEED ANY MORE 7,000-SQUARE-FOOT HOMES; WE NEED MORE THAT ARE 500 SQUARE FEET.”
finally having my own place, but it’s an adjustment as well,” she says. “I’m still afraid I’ll wake up and it will be taken away from me.” Even with the subsidized rate, half of Wild’s income goes toward rent and utilities.
The progression from homelessness to housed usually starts at Mill Street, which guarantees a bed to those who agree to an “action plan” that includes saving 75 percent of their income toward a rental deposit. They can graduate to Homeward Bound’s New Beginnings Center in Novato, which opened in 2000 on the old Hamilton Naval Air Base
and includes a culinary academy, a catering business, and studio apartments where working adults can stay for up to six months. Some also move on to the adjacent Next Key Center, a 30-unit building where people in job-training programs can live for two years.
Donnie White is one of New Beginnings’ success stories. White grew up in Marin City and spent 20 of his 42 years in and out of prison. In 2005, he went from San Quentin to Mill Street and then to New Beginnings, where he works as a groundskeeper. He’s kicked drugs and alcohol, gotten his GED,
and like everyone at New Beginnings is trying to save $3,000 in six months in order to rent an apartment. New Beginnings makes saving easier by providing food, shelter and access to a phone. White, who has an 11-year-old son living in Marin City, was due to move into his own apartment in San Rafael in February. “If you’re really tired of the way you’re living, this is the only place that will give you a chance,” he says. “But you have to give yourself the chance to change. It was a hard step.”
STILL ON THE STREET
Chris Smith walks around downtown San Rafael and talks about how he wishes he could find a steady job, one that gets him up early and working every day. The conversation is a reminder of how many of us are on the razor’s edge, how many are just one or two payments away from foreclosure or losing their rentals and how in a place as expensive as Marin there is little room for error when things get tight. “None of us asked for this, either, to be out here,” Smith says. “A lot of us had lives. And we still have lives. We’re not homeless, we’re just houseless, you know?”
TOP : Steve Boyer, director of the St. Vincent de Paul Society in San Rafael. ABOVE , FROM LEFT : Prayers before dinner at a San Anselmo church shelter; Diane Linn, director of the Ritter House in San Rafael; John Newton stacks donated food in the Ritter House pantry; Chris Smith, a former warehouse worker from Fairfax, has been homeless for 10 years.
ICE UNTAMED
LAND
STORY & PHOTOS
BY DAVE BARTRUFF
OPPOSITE: A trekker defies infernal Hverarond’s steaming vents. RIGHT: Atlantic Green Pebble Beach.
WHEN JULES VERNE PLOTTED HIS 1864 ADVENTURE NOVEL Journey to the Center of the Earth, he chose Iceland as a setting. This mystical island just below the Arctic Circle, much of its surface covered in a blanket of snow and ice, much of its core a fiery inferno, was legendary even in Verne’s time—known for explosive volcanoes, steaming red lava fields and towering geysers.
I launched my midsummer foray into Iceland’s “wild side” from the same place as Verne’s fictional characters — in the shadow of the extinct volcano Snaefellsjökull (“snow mountain”).
My fellow travelers and I—16 Americans and our Icelandic guide— arrived at the dormant glacier on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula after a 60-mile drive from Reykjavik over narrow rural roads built on beds of crushed lava. Even in our comfy 20-passenger van, the ride was rough.
En route, we passed through the Deildartunguhver thermal area, where steam rises from everywhere — streams, farmlands, even the shoulders along the road. For two days we hiked the coastline over the Budir lava field, seeing colonies of thousands of seabirds and pastures filled with the famed Icelandic horses first brought here by the island’s Nordic settlers 1,000 years ago.
As a respite from the hiking, we visited a shark farm to taste hakarl, an Icelandic seafood treat made of aged flesh from the ocean predator. We washed down the delicacy with a potato-based coriander-flavored spirit named Black Death.
While on the peninsula, we stayed in Stykkisholmur, a ferry port and harbor for the local fishing fleet, protected by a bluff topped with a lighthouse. The town’s historic fisheries house seafood restaurants and a Volcano Museum. The next leg of the journey was a 200-mile drive to Akureyri (Iceland’s “second city,” with a population of 17,000), which sits at the base of a fjord 60 miles from the Arctic Circle. Our itinerary took us to a reconstructed sod house on the site where medieval Viking explorer Erik the Red once lived. It also was the childhood home of his mariner son Leifur Eriksson, who is said to have reached North America 600 years before the Mayflower
Arriving in Akureyri, we stretched our legs with a stroll along the port’s old town pedestrian street, lined with shops and cafes characterized by corrugated metal siding and boxes of colorful petunias.
Akureyri was our base camp for two days of exploration. First we were off to the spectacular volcanic area that surrounds Lake Myvatn, an area of relentless tectonic stress and fantastic geologic wonders. NASA chose this barren landscape to train the Apollo 11 astronauts for their historic 1969 moon walk.
OPPOSITE: The view near the summit of holy Mt. Helgafell. ABOVE: Strokkur Geyser blows seven stories high every six minutes around the clock. BELOW: Jules Verne is commemorated near the actual volcanic site where his science-fiction classic was set.
BELOW: A silica-muddied couple in Blue Lagoon thermal waters; right: A trekker emerges from beneath and behind the 20-storyhigh Seljalandsfoss Falls. OPPOSITE: Counterclockwise, rafting a glacial Hvítá River gorge; midair leap from the four-story-high Hvítá cliff; waterfront barkeep fortifies Húsavik whale watchers.
As we approached the lake, towering plumes of mist accented by sparkling rainbows filled the sky. We had arrived at Goðafoss Falls (“falls of the gods”). Here, in 1000, the speaker of the Icelandic parliament threw his pagan Nordic idols into the waters and declared Iceland a Christian land.
Farther up the road, we stopped at Hverarönd, a smoking clay field the size of several sports stadiums, alive with boiling steam vents, mud pits and a sulfurous fog ripe with a stench like rotten eggs. The ground, fragile as a pizza crust, bubbles like boiling water. Raised walks and roped corridors provide safe passage through this dangerous maze.
The next day we drove to Húsavik on the shores of Skjálfandi (“shivering fjord”). A onetime whaling town, Húsavik today is Iceland’s whalewatching capital, launching point for tours in search of the 90-foot-long Icelandic blue whale, one of 24 whale species that frequent the local waters. Our vessel was the 69-foot oaken-hulled Nattafri. After donning precautionary storm gear, we set out on a two-and-a-half-hour voyage in what turned out to be calm seas providing a dozen close-up whale sightings.
We hopscotched back to Reykjavik for a day of touring geothermal facilities, then made our way 40 miles east to the southern city of Selfoss, base for the final leg of our journey. In the morning, we trekked through a deep canyon to the 20-story Seljalandsfoss Falls, which plummet over a wide ridge. A pathway took us below the ridge where we could view the torrent from underneath and behind.
Next, it was south to Vik, where we lunched on local wild salmon in a hostel that overlooked Vik’s spectacular crescent-shaped black volcanic beach (often named one of the world’s top 10 beaches), sea caves and ocean bluffs decorated by huge pillars of basalt. Afterward, we strapped on ice spikes for a two-hour hike along the terminal moraine of the Sólheimajökull Glacier.
The next day was also an active one, beginning with a bouncy threehour paddle trip down the Class II rapids of the glacier-fed Hvítá River. At one point, our 25-year-old guide led us on a steep climb to the top of the canyon. Standing on a rocky promontory four stories above the river, he invited us to join him in a dive into the calm water below. Casually, he stepped off the ledge and moments later pierced the water below like an arrow. A few of my fellow travelers took the plunge. I chose to scramble back down the cliff.
There was enough time in the day to visit Iceland’s most famous geysers: Geysir (from which all geysers of the world take their name) and Stokkur. Geysir began spewing 20-story spouts in 1294, but it is now dormant. Stokkur, though, still sends up scalding 75-foot salutes every six minutes.
Before heading home, I made a pilgrimage to the Blue Lagoon, a sprawling health spa about 25 miles from Reykjavik and a mecca of relief for psoriasis and eczema sufferers. We donned our bathing suits, slathered ourselves with silica mud and immersed ourselves in soothing mineral waters.
On the flight home, I thought of one my first experiences in Iceland —my hike up Helgafell (“holy mountain”) on the same Snaefellsnes Peninsula where Jules Verne set his 19th-century classic. At its tabletop summit (actually just a 250-foot-high outcrop), a three-sided stone enclosure served as a windbreak and a place to take in the 360-degree view of the peninsula’s volcanic peaks and coast.
Local legend holds that a first-time climber of Helgafell will be granted three wishes—but only on three conditions: don’t look back during the climb; don’t speak to anyone on the way to the summit; and never reveal the wishes. I didn’t, I didn’t and I won’t.
Summer is the best time to see the most of the island; rural roads are open everywhere; the Midnight Sun shines day and night. Iceland’s now a bargain with its currency devalued by half as a result of the world economic crisis. English is widely spoken. Twelve-day, 10-night escorted tour limited to 16 travelers with air from San Francisco June–August, from $4,095. Overseas Adventure Travel, oattravel.com. IF YOU G O
Jump In!
BY MIMI TOWLE
More than ever, Hawai‘i’s a paradise for water-sports fun
The Berniers—Gregg, Debbie and 11-year old Cooper—moved to Corte Madera two years ago from Detroit. Since then they’ve already had two Hawaiian vacations and have reservations this spring for their third.
For them, the siren call of 70-degree water and tropical fun has been too much to resist—as have the great deals they get with travel rewards thanks to the transcontinental demands of Gregg’s work. “We love the water in Hawai‘i,” says Debbie, who has taken up snorkeling and stand-up paddleboarding. “We love Stinson too, but there’s something about walking straight into the ocean without a wet suit, and without having to hold your breath.” Their first trip was to the Westin Kaanapali resort on Maui. “We just loved it,” Debbie says. “Gregg rented a yellow Jeep and we explored the island; the ‘boys’ took surf lessons; we all snorkeled and built up an appetite for dinner.” At night they explored the restaurants and found a favorite in Flatbread Pizza in Paia. Mid-trip, Debbie calculated their Marriott Visa points and booked a seven-day vacation for the next June at the Waikoloa Beach Marriott on the Big Island, from her Maui hotel room. “I had a big birthday coming up and I knew I wanted to come back to celebrate.”
While it took the active family a day or two to acclimate to the more relaxed pace of the Big Island, eventually they were right at home. “By the middle of the trip, we were so relaxed, we just got room service and watched CSI Miami,” Debbie recounts. “It
OPPOSITE : Snorkeling in Hanauma Bay. UPPER : soft landing for a surfer. ABOVE : Cooper and Gregg Bernier pose pre surf lesson.
sounds cheesy, but it was heaven.” Highlights included a four-wheel-drive trip to the Waipio Valley, where they swam in brilliant ocean water; back at the hotel beach they went stand-up paddleboarding, surfing and snorkeling.
This spring break they’re headed to the Fairmont Kea Lani Maui, in Wailea. “Friends of ours already had plans to go, so we wanted
to join them,” Debbie explains. “I’ve heard so many great things about the beach, the rooms and the food—my son is a pint-size food critic—so we decided to check it out for ourselves. And since we used the 25 percent early-booking savings, it was almost like using points!” Well, they did use United Mileage Plus points for the airfare.
WasSUP!
Stand-up paddleboards, the newest old sport
While stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) has recently become the “it” sport around the islands, the Hawaiians have been riding their hoe he’e nalus for centuries. Mark Tracy can be counted among the recent converts. His passion for boating and diving led him to Maui from Marin in the early 1970s. While he used to tour the shore by ocean kayak, he started stand-up paddling last year; now he’s such a fan he sells SUPs at Valley Isle Marine Center, his boat dealership in Maui. “Paddling on a SUP offers the user more visibility than a kayak because you are standing taller,” he says. “Kayaks, on the other hand, are better suited to fishing, stowing gear, camping, long-distance touring and anchoring while snorkeling.”
Besides being an enjoyable way to get out on the ocean, Tracy says, SUP provides a lowimpact aerobic workout and full-body strengthening and stretching. Most beginners are able to balance and paddle on a large board in a
RIGHT : Cooper explores the underwater world of Molokini.
BELOW : Debbie masters the stand-up paddleboard in a day. ADDITIONAL PHOTOS THROUGHOUT : Boat and fish provided by Fair Wind, Big Island boat charters.
EXPERIENCE LUXURY, ISLAND STYLE.
Enjoy exclusive condominium resort living overlooking world-famous Waikiki Beach.
Aston Waikiki Beach Tower from $301/night
One-bedroom Deluxe Oceanfront (1-4 persons)
Rate valid for travel through 6/22/10; does not include tax. Rate subject to change. Some restrictions apply. For reservations, call 866.774.2924 or your travel specialist. AstonHotels.com
Known as one of Waikiki’s most luxurious condominium resorts, the Aston Waikiki Beach Tower occupies one of the premier locations along Oahu’s most alluring stretch of sand. Every suite in the tower is oceanfront with the excitement of Waikiki below and the vast beauty of the blue Pacific beyond.
convenient washers and dryers; and private lanais where guests can watch longboarders surfing the waves or clouds turn to orange-red-purple at sunset.
Exclusive hotel-caliber services abound with twice-daily maid service, an on-site concierge, complimentary valet parking and free high-speed Internet access throughout the building.
Wonderful restaurantsand worldly cuisines are available in every directionand beach activities are a short walk down the beach. For families, the nearby Waikiki Aquarium and Honolulu Zoo offer fun photo opportunities.
The Aston Waikiki Beach Tower is a beautiful gem, combining space, place, style, service and aloha to make every Waikiki experience, truly unforgettable. For reservations, call 866-774-2924 or visit AstonHotels.com WAIKIKI ’ SALL - OCEANFRONTSUITES .
Spacious, designer furnished one- and twobedroom suites feature fully-equipped kitchens; separate bedroom, living and dining areas;
Outside your door, Kalakaua Avenue is a shoppers’paradise filled with everything from signature brands to tropical treasures.
WAIKIKI BEACH TOWER
couple of hours. Longer boards offer more glide and are easiest to paddle; wider boards are the most stable; shorter boards (the type used with waves) are easiest to turn but require more skill to use.
It’s an easy sport to learn, he adds, as long as you follow a few basic rules. Start early in the day, before any winds or swells become active. Ask an expert where it’s best to go—a lesson instructor or rental shop staffer can steer you right. And have fun: getting wet is part of the point of being on vacation, so let it happen.
Here are some places that rent SUPs.
BIG ISLAND
Kona Boys, Kona, 808.328.1234, konaboys.com KAUA‘I
Island hotels, resorts and rental condos are offering all types of wavesports-related packages. Here are a few to whet your water-lust.
OAHU
The “Beach Board Bliss” package at the Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel features deluxe oceanfront room; choice of private two-hour stand-up paddleboard or surf lesson for two from Hans Hedemann Surf School; $50 dining certificate for Tiki’s Bar & Grill; and daily “breakfast on the beach.” Valid through December 23, 2010; $199/night (four-night min). waikiki-beach-hotel.com, hhsurf.com
Moana Surfrider, a Westin Resort & Spa, offers a wave-riding adventure with surf lessons on Waikiki Beach just in front of the property starting at $30 per person; rooms start at $235. moana-surfrider.com
Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach has a new “Canoe for Two” promotion, including a room and an outrigger ride for two, plus a memento CD with images of the ride. Package starts at $209; additional nights
Play Safe
Longtime surfer and Bay Area local Joey Valera has called Hawai‘i his home on and off (along with a tugboat in Sausalito) for most of his life. He estimates he’s surfed, windsurfed and/ or kitesurfed every surf break in the state. He’ll even take credit for naming a few spots, including one advancedlevel break just beyond Anahola Bay off Kaua‘i called Unreals. “There were lots of guys there the day we first went out,” he recalls, “The waves were perfect and when I got back in, I told the locals that it was unreal.” The name stuck. Now 63, Valera spends most of his time in the water and, if possible, skimming the water kitesurfing. While water sports are his passion; he’s quick to acknowledge the many potential hazards. Here are Joey’s rules for staying safe:
1. Know what’s under the water. If you’re planning to recreate in an area with breaking surf, ask a local where the reef starts and stops.
2. Don’t go out alone. Bring a buddy—especially if you’re in unfamiliar waters.
3. Ask a local (or your hotel concierge) about the safety of popular remote spots. Those blowholes and natural pools can be really dangerous as tides and currents change often.
4. Wear booties. Sea urchins and sharp lava aren’t readily visible. A cut can get infected, and that’s bad news.
5. If you see or hear someone yell about a shark or just sense the presence of one, get out of the water. This goes for jellyfish too.
6. If you don’t know what you’re doing in the surf lineup or at the shore break, stay out of the way. Beginner surfers, stand-up paddleboarders, and skim boarders can create chaos with a weapon (their board). For those in the water: watch out for other people who don’t know what they’re doing.
7. Sunscreen!
A place full of endless energy and new experiences for the entire family. Welcome to Starwood Hotels & Resorts’ four unique properties in Waikı¯kı¯. Where thrilling activities, rejuvenated comforts and inspired services offer a true sense of place. Relax, refresh and truly enjoy a memorable Hawaiian vacation.
ENDLESS ESCAPE RATES
SHERATON PRINCESS KAIULANI – RATES STARTING AT $119
SHERATON WAIKIKI – RATES STARTING AT $199
MOANA SURFRIDER – RATES STARTING AT $235
THE ROYAL HAWAIIAN – RATES STARTING AT $350
Sheraton Waikiki; The Royal Hawaiian, a Luxury Collection Resort, Waikı¯kı¯; Moana Surfrider, A Westin Resort & Spa; Sheraton Princess Kaiulani
can be booked at the best available rate. outrigger.com
Sheraton Princess Kaiulani offers a submarine tour that descends 100 feet and navigates past historic wrecks and reefs teeming with colorful fish. Pricing starts at $107 for adults, $49 for children. Rooms start at $119. princess-kaiulani.com
The Royal Hawaiian, standing tall and pink above Waikiki since 1927, provides an outrigger canoe ride with the Waikiki Beach Boys,
starting at $112 per adult, or stand-up paddleboard instruction starting at $50 per person. Rooms start at $310. royal-Hawaiian.com Marriott Resort & Spa ’s surf package includes a double-occupancy room and a two-and-a-half-hour group surfing lesson (surfboard, leash and jersey included) from the Faith Riding Surf School. Rooms start at $309 through October 28, 2010 (three-night minimum); surf students must be at least 12 years old and know how to swim. marriottwaikiki.com
Utilizing the Hawaiian word lokahi meaning “unity,” Hyatt Regency Waikiki launched the Lokahi package (philanthropy and effortfull volunteering) to honor the most famous kama‘aina (island local), our nation’s 44th president. The package is intended to inspire a collective commitment to
When you’re on an island surrounded by natural wonders, the rest comes easily. Kayak down the serene Wailua River, experience the beautiful Napali Coast, or soak up the sun as you relax on a white sand beach. Get away and discover what you’ve been missing on the island of Kaua‘i.
For more information or for a free travel planner, visit our website at kauaidiscovery.com or call 1-800-262-1400.
fostering Hawai‘i’s land, people, and community. One of the opportunities for volunteering is through Hyatt’s Care Concierge program wherein guests can spend an hour an afternoon, or several days as a “beach watcher” with Reef Watch Waikiki, assisting University of Hawai‘i to compile data on human and environmental threats affecting Waikiki’s natural resources. Once your duty is complete, check out the beauty of what you’re helping to protect with snorkel gear rented from King’s Village ($5/day). Rates start at $148/night. waikiki.hyatt.com
Guided beach programs are open to all ages at Maunalua Bay fronting the Kahala Hotel & Resort. These include one-hour private surf lessons, beginner or advanced, $100; one-hour private stand-up paddleboard lessons, $100; outrigger surfing via 18-foot canoe, $75 per person for 30 minutes; and a remote reef snorkeling adventure via outrigger canoe, $65 per person for one hour. Resort guests can take free beginner stand-up paddleboard and surf-
www.kauaidiscovery.com
ing lessons daily at 12:30. Rooms start at $515. keaweadventures.com; kahalaresort.com
Turtle Bay Resort is now offering eco-friendly kayak tours featuring Peekaboos, which are not only stable, but have plexiglass on the bottom of the kayak to let you see what is underwater. Tours start at $100 and are led by Shaka Kayaks, with a motto of “take only pictures and leave only a wake.” Surf lessons through the Hans Hedemann Surf School are also available, in private and group sessions. Surfboard rentals start at $10 for one hour. Rates for the hotel start at $430. turtlebayresort.com
KAUA‘I
Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort and Spa, ranked number-one Kaua‘i resort for the past 13 years on Conde Nast Traveler’s gold list, is offering complimentary introductory scuba lessons. Learn the basics of how to breathe, clear the pressure, and dive and rise safely, in the saltwater lagoon daily at 2 p.m. Graduates can go on an ocean dive with a certified instruc-
tor. Rooms start at $440. grandhyattkauai.com
Sheraton Kaua‘i Resort is set atop the quarter-mile crescent-shaped white-sand Poipu Beach, often ranked one of the 10 best beaches in Hawai‘i. Ocean conditions are mild most of the year, making this place popular for swimming, snorkeling, boogie boarding and surfing. December through April, whale-watching is good even from shore as giant humpbacks spout and breach, playing in their winter breeding grounds. Rooms start at $209. sheraton-kauai.com
Learn to stand-up paddleboard with lessons from the Kaua‘i Beach Boys, fronting Kaua’i Marriott Resort on Kalapaki Beach, which just completed a $50 million transformation. The Garden Isle’s longest-operating beach conces-
sion, Kaua‘i Beach Boys offers one-and-a-half -hour lessons including the use of a rash guard jersey, board and paddle for $75. Lessons held daily at 9 a.m., 1 p.m. and 3 p.m., Rooms start at $149. kauaimarriott.com
At the St. Regis Princeville Resort, guests can enjoy a cruise along the famous scenic Na Pali
Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa
On the Island of Maui (800) 367 2960 or waileamarriott.com
ONCE YOU ARE HERE, YOU WILL WONDER WHY YOU WAITED. Bask in the luxury of our guestrooms and full-service Mandara Spa. Soak in the sunsets at our infinity pool, dine in world-class restaurants and play championship golf. It’s all in the art of pampering, perfected here at our premier oceanfront location in Maui’s prestigious Wailea resort.
coast, $92 adults, $71 children. Rooms start at $360. stregisprinceville.com
The Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas offer kayakers a guided trip along the scenic Hanalei River and Bay Reef Lagoon, $60 adults, $45 children. Rooms start at $209. westinprinceville.com
LANA‘I
Lodging is limited on Lana‘i; here are water activities available to guests of the Four Seasons properties.
Hulopo‘e Bay is a protected marine preserve, making for a colorful underwater adventure. Complimentary snorkels, fins and masks (including prescription-lens masks) are offered, along with a wide selection of instruction. Scuba starts at $95 per person a day; Snuba, with a 20-foot air line connected to a scuba tank, is offered for $79 per person a day.
Stand-up paddleboarding and surfing lessons range from beginning to advanced; $175 per person for two-hour group surfing, $200 for private two-hour lesson for two. Paddleboard rental, $75 a day.
The North Shore of Lana‘i has one of the longest barrier reefs and one of the largest green sea turtle rookeries in the state. The shallow lagoon near the shore is ideal for kayak paddlers. Single and double kayaks available; $159 guided tour for two.
Search for mammals on a sailing trip led by certified naturalists; choose a snorkeling or
scuba excursion to remote reefs; or end the day with a sunset sail, $59–$169 per person.
MAUI SOUTH
Situated just above Polo Beach in Wailea, the Fairmont Kea Lani is popular with families for its luxury oceanfront suites and villas. Water activities include snorkeling or boogie boarding, $9 per hour, $20 per day; introduction to scuba, $99, includes an hour in the pool and an hour in the ocean; additional shore dives happen right off Polo Beach with the option of a power scooter for guests already scuba certified. Another unique activity is the complimentary Hawaiian canoe experience. Participants learn the basics of paddling as well as the history of the canoe and its importance to Hawaiian heritage. Paddle a kayak straight off Polo Beach to see turtles, colorful fish and whales during whale season (November–April), or take a guided tour down the south coast. Single kayaks $25 per hour, double kayaks $30 per hour, $79 per person for a guided kayak
tour. Or see for yourself what all the stand-up paddleboard fuss is about: rent one for $40 an hour. fairmont.com/kealani
Four Seasons Resort Maui is offering two complimentary adult passes for a whale watch cruise excursion aboard the Alii Nui with every booking of a partial-ocean-view or highercategory room. This package is available along with the offer of a fifth night free. Surf, standup paddleboarding, snorkeling and scuba can be arranged by the concierge. Rooms start at $750 (with the fifth-night-free package). fourseasons.com/maui
Enjoy the Beach Club package at the Grand Wailea with Maui Ocean Activities, on Wailea Beach. The program includes one week’s rental for snorkeling, boogie boarding, standup paddleboarding or kayaking for only $99 per person. Complimentary scuba lessons are available to guests in the property dive pool. Rooms start at $399. 800.888.6100, grandwailea.com; Maui Ocean Activities, mauioceanactivities.com
At Hotel Wailea, a boutique luxury spot just above the ocean in Wailea, the kiteboarding adventure package includes five nights in a deluxe suite, three-day kiteboarding camp (10 hours, all equipment included) at Kanaha Beach Park, a one-hour massage (for those sore muscles), and 10 percent off a purchase of any new kiteboarding equipment. $1,295 per person (double occupancy). hotelwailea.com
Makena Beach & Golf Resort is expanding its ocean adventure program with Kimokeo Kapahulehua, a skilled and avid canoe paddler and Hawaiian cultural practitioner. Options include kayaking at $25 for the first hour and $10 each hour after for a two-person kayak, snorkeling at $9 an hour or $20 a day, standup paddleboarding at $60 for an hour-long lesson and trips on a Hawaiian outrigger for $30 a person with a two-person minimum as well as kayak/snorkel eco-tours —$75 a person for a two-hour adventure package to learn about Makena’s beautiful reef, native plants
$35-Million Renovation Showcasing All New Luxury Guest Rooms
Set on 27 Acres of Tropical Paradise on a Secluded ½ Mile Stretch of Kaanapali’s Best Beach
Intimate Resort with Traditional Hawaiian Ambiance
Five-Star Service & Award-winning Hawaiian Hospitality Award-winning Pacific Regional Cuisine
and wildlife and the rich history of the area. Rates start at $188, makenaresortmaui.com
At Wailea Beach Villas, a private adventure guide will design a day on the water (or land) that meets each guest’s needs, be it learning to surf, snorkeling in Turtle Town, an outrigger canoe trip or standup paddleboarding. Full- and half-day lessons/excursions; price varies with activity. Rates start at $630 for a two-bedroom villa. waileabeachvillas.com
MAUI NORTH AND WEST
The Paia Inn is a beach town boutique hotel in the heart of Paia town, with private beach access to Paia Bay. Complimentary boogie boards, snorkel equipment and beach toys are offered, as well as 90-minute stand-up paddleboard lessons for $75 per person or $130 for two. Rooms start at $189. paiainn.com
Hyatt Regency Maui Resort and Spa offers daily introductory scuba classes, which can be followed by a shore dive for $69. Single dives, night dives, scooter dives and kayak dive packages are also available. Kids age 8 to 11 can take a “Bubble Makers” class in the pool, hunting for hidden treasure while learning basic scuba skills, $49. The Hyatt also runs a special program offering whale-watching, snorkeling and scuba via the Hula Girl luxury catamaran; rates vary by activity. Rooms start at $356, maui.hyatt.com
At the Westin Maui Resort & Spa, scuba and snorkeling instruction are offered at the pool or on the beach; guests can also use the 87,000-square-foot pool area featuring five swimming pools, two water slides, a swim-through grotto with twin waterfalls and a hidden whirlpool to practice their skills after their scuba lesson. Rooms start at $279. westinmaui.com
*Must enter by 4/30/10. Winner will be notified via phone or email by 5/31/10. Reservation based on availability. Some restrictions apply. Call 808.367.5635 for more info.
Rent a condo, town home or villa through Classic Resorts and get full access to aquatic activities such as stand-up paddleboard lessons and rentals through the Royal Hawaiian Surf Academy; $79 per person for a two-hour lesson. Lodging starts at $425 for one- or two-bedroom luxury condos at Ka‘anapali Ali‘i on Ka’anapali Beach, kaanapalialii.com, and $225, for
mid-priced oceanfront condos at Lahaina Shores Beach Resort. lahainashores.com
The newly renovated King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel is the only hotel set on a white-sand beach in Kailua-Kona and is adjacent to the Kailua pier. Adventure purveyors Kona Boys offer stand-up paddleboard lessons and rentals, kayaking, surfing, snorkeling and more, right off the beach; konaboys.com
For scuba lovers, the clear waters near here are said to offer some of the most fascinating diving around, including night diving with manta rays. Rooms start at $179. konabeachhotel.com
Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa From nearby Keauhou Bay, just a five-minute stroll from the resort, guests can enjoy deep sea fishing and scuba charters, kayak and standup paddleboard rentals, and snorkel cruises to scenic Kealakekua Bay. Book the “Manta Experience,” a nighttime snorkel or scuba trip, and you also get 50 percent off the $99-perperson Hula Kai morning snorkel cruise or Fair Wind II afternoon snorkel cruise. Hula Kai, a 55-foot Technicraft power catamaran, now has underwater propulsion vehicles called Sea Rockets to help advanced snorkelers get closer to undersea life; fair-wind.com Hotel rooms start at $159. sheratonkeauhou.com
Every Kona Village guest stay includes complimentary snorkeling and kayaking in the pristine ocean. Pay a one-time safety and instruction fee, and enjoy free use of the Alakai Nalu’s (ocean experts’) stand-up paddleboards, Sunfish sailboats, and two-man outrigger canoes for the rest of your visit. Kona Village is a PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) resort, so divers can dive with knowledgeable staff and beginners can become certified. Rooms start at $660 (meals included). konavillage.com
Besides snorkeling in the freshwater lagoon on site, guests at the Hilton Waikoloa Village can take a shuttle to Anaehoomalu Bay to enjoy snorkeling ($25 a day), kayaking (singles, $18 per hour), or stand-up paddling boards ($30 per person for a half hour with instruction). Rooms start at $199. hiltonwaikoloavillage.com
MARCH ARTS & EVENTS GUIDE
THEATER
Thru March 14 The Caucasian Chalk Circle John Doyle designed and directed this powerful play by Bertolt Brecht and featuring an original score. American Conservatory Theater (SF). 415.749.2228, act-sf.org
Thru March 21 Wicked The cultural phenomenon that got its start in San Francisco is back for an extended stay. Orpheum Theatre (SF). 415.512.7770, shnsf.com
6-7 Cinderella The Masque Unit Jr. Theatre offers a unique take on a classic story. Showcase Theater (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marincenter.org
12–April 11 And Jesus Moonwalks the Mississippi The new play from Marcus Gardley is the second in the 10th anniversa-
ry season of the Cutting Ball Theater, operated by Marin-based Rob Melrose and Paige Rogers. Cutting Ball Theater (SF). 800-8383006, cuttingball.com
19–April 18 The Boys Next Door Four mentally challenged men learn how to make their own way as they share an apartment. Barn Theatre (Ross). 415.456.9555, rossvalleyplayers.com
25–April 18 Equivocation King James gives William Shakespeare the job of writing about a thwarted assassination attempt. Learn the story of the creation of Macbeth and King Lear. Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). 415.388.5208, marintheatre.org
31–April 25 Lady Be Good The Ira Gershwin celebration kicks off with one of his earliest hits. Eureka Theatre (SF). 415.255.8207, 42ndstmoon.org
DANCE
2–7 SF Ballet Program Four features three ballets including an S.F. Ballet premiere of Stravinsky’s Petrouchka. War Memorial Opera House (SF). 415.865.2000, sfballet.org
26 Ballet Folklórico de México Traditional dance and music come together with ornate costumes to bring Mexican culture alive. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marincenter.org
MUSIC
Thru June 12 S.F. Jazz Spring Season
Bobby McFerrin, Booker T. and the Count Basie Orchestra are just a few of the many acts scheduled for the five-month-long concert series. 415.398.5655, sfjazz.org
Shanghai at the Asian Art Museum, thru September 5
TRAVEL BUZZ
MUSTARD FESTIVAL
There’s still time to join the celebration of all things mustard in Napa Valley this month. Now in its 17th year, the Mustard Festival is about much more than those gorgeous yellow flowers that blanket the hills this time of year. It is a winter carnival of sorts, bringing together, food, wine and camaraderie throughout the Napa Valley. The Napa Valley destination council touts it as the premier off-peak-season event. To entice visitors the entire valley is offering compelling midweek packages and events such as the Awards, a sit-down tasting dinner March 12 at the Black Stallion Winery; the Napa Riverwalk Marketplace, March 13-14; A Taste of Yountville, March 20; and the Photo Finish (grand finale event) at the Rubicon Estate in Rutherford. mustardfestival.org
FORE! PEBBLE BEACH
Two more reasons to visit this world-famous resort situated on three gold courses next month: first of all, April 8-11 brings the Pebble Beach Food and Wine event. PBFW is a roundup of renowned chefs and California winemakers, who will be mingling with the hoi polloi throughout the weekend. The championship golf courses have also been primed for the U.S. Open in June, so now’s the time to play before the pros. And those willing to spend a little extra, can sign up to play with their favorite celebrity chef on April 8. pebblebeach.com, pebblebeachfoodandwine.com
2 Marin Symphony Alasdair Neale conducts an evening of music from composers Debussy, Copland and Tchaikovsky. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marinsymphony.org
3 The Great Jazz Singers Master jazz film archivist Mark Cantor remembers vocalists such as Billie Holiday, Sarah Vaughan, Ella Fitzgerald, Nat “King” Cole and more. Jewish Community Center (SF). 415.292.1233, jccsf.org
3 Susan Stamberg The host of NPR’s popular Morning Edition discusses news radio broadcasting. Jewish Community Center of San Francisco (SF). 415.292.1233, jccsf.org
4–7 Serenades and Dances The third concert in the New Century Chamber Orchestra season honors community and tradition and opens with the audience favorite Praludium and Allegro. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.357.1111, ncco.org
5 Joe Henry The singer/songwriter/producer plays songs from his new album Blood from Stars. Great American Music Hall (SF). 888.233.0449, gamh.com
5 Band of the Irish Guards and Royal Regiment of Scotland The Band of Irish Guards, created in 1900 by Queen Victoria, makes its U.S. debut. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marincenter.org
7 Ensô String Quartet The acclaimed ensemble performs pieces by Beethoven and others. Mount Tam United Methodist Church (Mill Valley). 415.381.4453, chambermusicmillvalley.org
10 Experience Hendrix Tribute Tour Billy Cox, Joe Satriani, Jonny Lang, Eric Johnson and more join to pay tribute to one of rock ‘n’ roll’s best guitarists. The Warfield (SF). 415.567.2060, thewarfieldtheatre.com
11–14 S.F. Symphony Michael Tilson Thomas conducts Gustav Mahler’s Resurrection, one of the composer’s most popular and successful works. Davies Symphony Hall (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org
13 Smokey Robinson The King of Motown takes the stage to sing a few of his many hits. The Warfield (SF). 415.567.2060, thewarfieldtheatre.com
13 Keola and Moana Beamer The first couple of Hawaii bring music and dance to Point Reyes. Dance Palace (Point Reyes Station). 415.663.1075, dancepalace.org
13–15 Mill Valley Philharmonic Celebrate international Women’s Day with a program featuring female composers. Various locations (Mill Valley). 415.383.0930, millvalleyphilharmonic.org
14 Triskela Fresh interpretations of traditional Irish and Scottish tunes with harps, whistles, drums and singing. St. John’s Church (Ross). 415.456.1102, stjohnsross.org
14 Sexy Sunday A musicians’ showcase featuring female artists who rock. Peri’s Silver Dollar (Fairfax). 415.459.9910, krickie.com
19 John Pederson The multi-instrumentalist is joined by Marin County musicians Fran Kenny, Rita Thies and Dan Byrne. Old St. Hilary’s (Tiburon). 415.435.1853, landmarks-society.org
20 Dame Kiri Te Kanawa The soprano who captured the world’s attention at the Royal Opera House comes to Marin to sing.
Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marincenter.org
20 Blame Sally This Bay Area–based allfemale band bring its unique sound to the Lark. Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.389.5072, murphyproductions.com
27 Turtle Island String Quartet Hear the Grammy Award–winning group that has been an innovative force in chamber music since 1985. Dance Palace (Point Reyes Station). 415.663.1075, dancepalace.org
29 Youth Choral Festival More than 400 student singers representing 12 high school choirs are joined by Chanticleer for an allday residency. Davies Symphony Hall (SF). 415.392.4400, chanticleer.org
GALLERIES
MARIN
Art Abloom Studio and Gallery Artwork on display and classes. 1527 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo. 415.256.1112, artabloom.com
Art at the Cheese Factory Journeys Work from local artists on the subject of travel. See new works from talented local artists, thru May 31. 7500 Red Hill Road, Petaluma. artatthecheesefactory.org
Art Bar–Molinar Gallery Contemporary realism painting by Adam Miller and bronze sculpture by Marco Cochrane. 46 Main St, Tiburon. 415.435.5999, theartbar.us
Art Works Downtown Second Fridays art walk. Enjoy works from local artists, March 12. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119, artworksdowntown.org
Claudia Chapline Gallery Retrospective of 20 years of Claudia Chapline’s figurative work on paper. 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach. 415.868.2308, cchapline.com
Community Congregational Church Eric Hoffman shows work of brushed aluminum and ink, thru April 22. 145 Rock Hill Drive, Tiburon. 415.435.9108, ccctiburon.org
Donna Seager Gallery Friends, Family and Other Misfits Work from Devorah Jacoby,
thru April 15. 851 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.454.4229, donnaseagergallery.com
Gallery 34 Collective of Bay Area artists’ work featuring jewelry, glass and paintings. 34 Main St, Tiburon. 415.435.3999, gallery34.com
Gallery Bergelli The Higher Foolishness Work by Tim Weldon, thru March 5. 483 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.945.9454, bergelli.com
Gallery Route One Fields of Time Work by Gloria Matuszewski. thru March 28. 11101 Hwy One, Point Reyes Station. 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org
Marin County Watercolor Society Free Spirits A MCWS spring exhibit at the Bank of Marin, March 11–April 19. 50 Madera Blvd, Corte Madera. 415.472.2265, marincountywatercolorsociety.com
Marin Society of Artists Open craft and sculpture at the nonprofit arts association. 30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Ross. 415.454.9561, marinsocietyofartists.org
S dun ay, May 16,
Chef Heidi Krahling
Ch f rah h
C i adi o in and si
Cooking in the garden and signing her
lata’s editerranean
‘Insalata’s Mediterranean Table’
Enjoy sweet and savory fine foods from a Tequila Tasting from Marinitas, San Anselmo.
En e tandsavoryfinef n f Tequ itas, San Ans
St e softhishist s hist 1 i1885 r , circa 1885
Stroll the gardens of this historic Ross pioneer home, circa 1885-1890. Renovated in 2006 with gardens by landscape architect Michael B Yandle. 16, 2010 ~ 4:00 pm to 7:00 pm
O’Hanlon Center for the Arts Humor, Wit and Whimsy Juried photography show. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org
Robert Allen Fine Art Abstract Works on Canvas Work from Gina Jacupke, Katy Kuhn, Carol Lefkowitz, Sydell Lewis, Michael Moon, Woodward Payne and others. 301 Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.2800, robertallenfineart.com
Robert Beck Gallery Early California and contemporary plein air paintings on display. 222 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.456.7898, beckgallery.org
Robert Green Fine Arts Group show of gallery artists. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgfinearts.com
Smith Andersen North Vintage black-andwhite photography. 2240 A Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.455.9733, smithandersennorth.com
Studio 4 Art Work by local artists at this brand-new gallery and workshop offering materials and classes. 1133 Grant Ave, Novato. 415.596.5546, studio4art.net
Tomales Fine Art Paintings from Timothy Horn, John Poon and more. 27050 Maine St, Tomales. 707.878.2525, tomalesfineart.com
SAN FRANCISCO
ArtHaus 2010 Resurgence Selected works in various media by gallery artists. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com
Berggruen Gallery The Road to Here Group exhibition. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com
Cain Schulte Gallery Group portrait show with Daniel Ochoa, Kirstine Reiner and more, thru March 6. 714 Guerrero St, 415.543.1550, cainschulte.com
Caldwell Snyder Gallery Work by Jason Rohlf, who draws inspiration from alternative art traditions. 341 Sutter St, 415.296.7896, caldwellsnyder.com
Elins Eagles-Smith Gallery New paintings by John McCormick, thru April 10. 49 Geary St, 415.981.1080, eesgallery.com.
George Krevsky Gallery Work by Gordon Cook, thru April 11. 77 Geary St, 415.397.9748, georgekrevskygallery.com
Gregory Lind Gallery Work by Barbara Takenaga. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com
William DeBilzan
“At Your Side”, mixed media on canvas, 53x29 inches
Josh Hardy Galleries Early California and American fine art on display. 3350 Sacramento St, 415.345.1832, hardygalleries.com
Meyerovich Gallery Motherwell & Rauschenberg A collection of works from the ’70s and ’80s. 251 Post St, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com
Paul Mahder Gallery Photography by Migdalia Valdes. 3378 Sacramento St, 415.474.7707, paulmahdergallery.com
Rena Bransten Gallery Work by Candida Höfer, exhibition takes viewers on an international tour of rooms, both public and private, thru April 10. 77 Geary St, 415.982.3292, renabranstengallery.com
Weinstein Gallery Works on Paper Work by nonobjective, art that contains no recognizable figures or objects, master Rudolf Bauer, thru April 20. 301 Geary St, 415.362.8151, weinstein.com
MUSEUMS
MARIN
Bay Area Discovery Museum Clap, jump, wiggle and sing along with Miss Kitty every Wednesday and Thursday (Sausalito). 415.339.3958, baykidsmuseum.org
Bolinas Museum Coyote, Deer and Gold Contemporary Native American art, thru March 7 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org
Falkirk Cultural Center The historic Queen Anne Victorian located in the heart of San Rafael is open to the public (San Rafael). 415.485.3438, falkirkculturalcenter.org
Marin History Museum The exhibit Growing the Future: Farming Families of Marin tells the history of farming in Marin, thru October. Also on display is the new exhibit, Ranching and Rockin’ at Olompali,
thru December (Boyd Gate House). 415.454.8538, marinhistory.org
Marin Museum of Contemporary Art CREAM, from the top Emerging artists exhibition, March 20–April 18 (Novato). 415.506.0137, marinmoca.com
Marin Museum of the American Indian A Thousand Years of Southwest Pottery Enjoy the exhibit and a collection of Coast Miwok and Native American artifacts (Novato). 415.897.4064, marinindian.com
BAY AREA
Asian Art Museum Shanghai The exhibit features more than 130 oil paintings, Shanghai deco furniture and rugs, revolutionary posters, works of fashion, movie clips, and contemporary installations that tell the tale and history of one of Asia’s most dynamic and cosmopolitan cities, thru September 5 (SF). 415.581.3500, asianart.org
Call the Shot has a simple premise: Tell us what this is a picture of and win a $50 gift certificate for E & O Trading Company in Larkspur.
To win, you must be specific. Sure, it’s a tower, but where is it located and what was its purpose. Hint: You have to go through a gate to get there.
Here’s how to play: Go to marinmagazine.com/shot, agree to the rules and submit your answer. Simple. We’ll choose the winner randomly from all the correct answers. Good luck!
And the winner is: Jason Nash of San Anselmo who won January’s Call the Shot by identifying the bike path under the Golden Gate Bridge.
California Academy of Sciences What Is Missing? A new sculpture by renowned artist Maya Lin touches on themes of biodiversity and habitat loss and is part of the artist’s last memorial (SF). 415.379.8000, calacademy.org
Conservatory of Flowers The always-popular Golden Gate Express Garden Railway features model trains, miniature gardens and scaled-down models of San Francisco landmarks, thru April 18 (SF). 415.831.2090, conservatoryofflowers.org
Contemporary Jewish Museum “Our Struggle”: Responding to Mein Kampf Members of the public and artists answer artist Linda Ellia’s call to respond to Adolf Hitler’s Mein Kampf by altering one of the book’s 600 pages, thru June 15 (SF). 415.655.7800, thecjm.org
de Young Tutankhamun and the Golden Age of the Pharaohs After 30 years the boy king is back. The exhibit features more than 130 works from the tomb of Tutankhamun, as well as his family and court, thru March 28 (SF). 415.750.3600, thinker.org
di Rosa Preserve A Salute to Bay Area Emerging Artists The exhibition showcases the work of eight Bay Area artists who recently completed their MFA degrees at Bay Area schools, thru June 5 (Napa). 707.226.5991, dirosapreserve.org
Exploratorium For the 22nd year, the Exploratorium celebrates everyone’s favorite never-ending number, pi. The annual event honors Albert Einstein’s birthday as well as all things pi, March 14 (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu
Legion of Honor Very Postmortem: Mummies and Medicine Irethorrou, the Fine Arts Museums’ mummy, on loan since 1944, returns for this exhibit taking a modern and scientific look at mummies, thru July 4 (SF). 415.750.3600, legionofhonor.org
San Francisco Museum of Craft and Folk Art Rhythm and Hues: Cloth and Culture of Mali The West African nation of Mali is home to more fiber artists and designers than most other countries. See examples of the bright colors and complex graphics in
the textiles from this region, thru May 2 (SF). 415.227.4888, mocfa.org
SFMOMA The Anniversary Show More than 400 permanent collection works, including painting, sculpture, media arts, photography, architecture and design, as well as interpretive and archival materials will be on display in celebration of the museum’s 75th anniversary thru January 16, 2011 (SF). 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org
Yerba Buena Center for the Arts Renée Green: Endless Dreams and Time-Based Streams The largest United States exhibit from internationally known artist Renée Green, thru June 20 (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org
EVENTS
4 Home Sweet Home Enjoy an evening of music benefiting the Novato Housing Coalition, with the Marin Tones Barber Shop Quartet. Next Key Center (Novato). 415.898.7730, novatohousingcoalition.org
6 Sample Sale Stop by the Marin Country Mart (formerly Larkspur Landing) for deals on hundreds of products from local producers at this Marin Store one-day-only event. Marin Country Mart (Larkspur). 415.332.4800, themarinstore.com
7 Academy Awards Party Watch the 82nd Academy Awards in high definition and enjoy a gourmet dinner, dessert and movie trivia. Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.924.5111, larktheater.net
7 Oscar Night America Enjoy food, wine and an auction at the only Bay Area Oscar night event sanctioned by the academy. All guests receive an official Academy Awards program—the same one given out at the ceremony. Smith Rafael Film Center (San Rafael). 415.526.5841, cafilm.org
7 Napa Valley Marathon Follow the Silverado Trail from Calistoga to Napa at this 32nd annual event. Vintage High School (Calistoga). 707.255.2609, napavalleymarathon.org
7, 24 Live at the Met Hamlet This new production features an extended mad scene that is one of the most dramatic in opera. Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.924.5111, larktheater.net
8, 11 Steve Kroft The Emmy Award–winning 60 Minutes correspondent discusses the wide range of topics he has covered as well as the effects of television journalism on public perception. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marincenter.org
11 Carol Leifer The comedienne, television writer and author is in conversation with Michael Krasny. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000, marinjcc.org
12–14 Gently Used Art Auction Donate your old art and pick up some new pieces and give your home a whole new look. Donations will be accepted March 8-9. Belvedere-Tiburon Library (Tiburon). 415.435.2340, bel-tib-lib.org
13 Fairfax Brewfest Enjoy beer from a variety of local breweries at this 15th annual event. Fairfax Pavilion (Fairfax). fairfaxbrewfest.com
13-14 Antique Show More than 65 dealers bring antiques and collectibles including fine and decorative art, furniture, Asian art, watches and clocks, silver, books, photographs, postcards, posters and prints. Exhibit Hall (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marincenter.org
18 Joy to Seniors Decorate and assemble gift bags for local Jewish seniors for Passover. Jewish Family and Children’s Services (San Rafael). 415.419.3632, jfcs.org
18 Marin Farm Day For the 26th year, more than 30 Northern California ranchers, growers, producers and educators provide interactive exhibits on agriculture, health, farm animals, gardens and the environment. Exhibit Hall (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marincenter.org
18–26 Tiburon Film Festival The ninth annual festival features international and independent films from more than 90 countries. 415.381.4123, tiburonfilmfestival.com
20 Marin Women’s Hall of Fame The 22nd annual gala honors nine women leaders and features dinner, a silent auction and reception. Embassy Suites (San Rafael). 415.455.4900, marinwomenshalloffame.org
23 Conversations with Eco-innovators Dr. Celia Harvey will discuss how scientists are developing new science to help with conservation strategies. Cavallo Point (Sausalito). 415.561.3560, instituteatgoldengate.org
26 La Gran Fiesta See the performance of Ballet Folklorico de Mexico de Amalia Hernandez and then head to the Redwood Foyer for drinks and Mexican cuisine at this Friends of Marin Center’s annual fundraising event. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.499.6014, friendsofmarincenter.org
27-28 Bowl for Kids’ Sake Grab your ball and shoes for this 27th annual Big Brothers Big Sisters event. Help the organization serve more than 1,500 young people in Marin, Napa, Solano and Sonoma counties. Country Club Bowl (San Rafael). 415.453.3800, bbbsnorthbay.org
31 Dominican Leadership Spring Lecture Dr. Louann Brizendine will discuss her new book The Male Brain, a sequel to the New York Times best seller The Female Brain. Dominican University (San Rafael). 415.458.3202, dominican.edu
FOOD & WINE
Hotel Healdsburg Chef Charlie Palmer hosts his fifth annual Pigs & Pinot flavor festival. Master sommeliers will be joined by celebrity chefs including Tyler Florence and Kevin Gillespie. Contact the hotel for special package offers, March 19-20. 800.889.7188, pigsandpinot.com
Meritage at the Claremont The first ever Berkeley Wine Festival features eight evenings of dinners hosted by Napa and Sonoma winemakers at the Claremont’s new restaurant. The festival kicks off with wine from more than 50 wineries and a buffet prepared by executive chef Josh Thomsen, March 12. The dinners continue until May 7. 41 Tunnel Road, Berkeley, 510.549.8510, meritageclaremont.com
Around Town
Marinites crossed the bridge to cheer on chef Alice Waters as she received USF’s 2009 California Prize for Service and the Common Good award at the University of San Francisco. The prize recognizes service in pursuit of the common good for society at large. Above, Robert McGrath, Stephen A. Privett, Janet Pasha, Father Donal Godfrey, George Pasha; Right, Judy Karshmer (dean of School of Nursing), Michelle Skaff, Alice Waters.
Opes Advisors celebrated business partners and clients by hosting a fun-filled Oktoberfest at their Larkspur office. They had all the traditional fare: beer, sausage, sauerkraut and plenty of strudel.
Mill Valley’s Evo Spa treated its clients to an appreciation day, complete with mini spa treatments and refreshments. Above, Heather Daniels, Meagan Nogueiro, Jennifer Grunebach, Stephanie Vigil, Candise Peterson; Right, Neka Pasquale, Gail Ann.
Guests were treated to a preview of Milly’s spring fashions at Sausalito’s Green Apples boutique, where owner Shelley Mosby was on hand to offer personal shopping advice. Above, Shelley Mosby, Karen Santos.
DINE OUT
CORTE
MADERA
A.G. FERRARI Italian delicatessen Yes it’s a chain, but it’s a good one. A.G. Ferrari, where a third-generation Italian family mixes delicatessen with specialty fine foods. House-made spinachand-ricotta ravioli smothered in organic tomato sauce with fresh vegetables will impress any dinner guest. 107 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.4347, agferrari.com
BENISSIMO Italian Benissimo means “really really good” in Italian. From margherita pizza to veal parmigiana to mocha mud pie, Benissimo serves a taste of Italy in a casual neighborhood venue. 18 Tamalpais Dr, 415.927.2316, benissimos.com
CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN Cal/Eclectic Be prepared for chaos. Easy place to meet with kids; Mom/Dad can enjoy a tasty Thai crunch salad and decent glass of wine while the little ones feast on basic kid-size portions of pasta and pizza. 347 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.945.0401, cpk.com
CHAMPAGNE BAKERY French This casual bakery displays fresh-made pastries, croissants,
tarts, cookies and cakes, to be enjoyed indoors or out on the patio. Brioche French toast and the French dip sandwich with Swiss cheese are among the many menu options. Catering is also available. 103 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.5470, champagnebakery.com
IL FORNAIO Italian Sausalito’s Larry Mindel hit a home run with this upscale Italian 23-restaurant franchise. Besides the award-winning breads, pizzas and pastas, the menu boasts a variety of salads and noncarb entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com
IZZY’S STEAKS & CHOP HOUSE American The legendary San Francisco steak house has moved north. Known for great steaks and seafood as well as its fine wine selection, this is a great spot for a group or intimate dinner for two. 55 Tamal Vista, 415.924.3366, izzysrestaurant.com
LA MAISON DE LA REINE Vietnamese A refreshing change amid the plethora of Italian, Mexican and Chinese options. The crunchy cabbage chicken salad with peanuts, fresh spring rolls, and combinations of pho are delicious. 346 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.0288, lm-vietnamese-cuisine.com
MARIN JOE’S Italian One of Marin’s oldest establishments. Pasta and other Italian dishes have been served here for over 50 years. Pick from soup, salad, seafood mesquite-grilled or sautéed meats and over 10 pasta options guaranteed to satisfy. Have a drink and hear local musicians at
the well-known piano bar. 1585 Casa Buena Dr, 415.924.2081, marinjoesrestaurant.com
MAX’S CAFE American Located across from Town Center, Max’s is known for casual ambience and large portions. The menu changes with the season but features year-round favorites like matzo ball soup and BLTs. Besides decadent portions or comfort food and desserts, the menu also offers seasonable local produce and healthy items too. 60 Madera Blvd, 415.924.6297, maxsworld.com
PACIFIC CATCH Pan-Asian This well-priced fresh grill eatery offers a bounty of Pacific Rim —inspired small or main plates, like the generously portioned wasabi bowls filled with rice (white or brown), veggies and your choice of cooked or raw fish, chicken or beef. Modeled after the Paia Fish House on Maui down to the chalk board menu and Hawaiian music. 223 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.3474, pacificcatch.com
P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO Chinese The combination of an attentive staff, lively atmosphere and consistently delicious meals makes for a solid dining experience. Items like the lettuce wraps and Mongolian beef keep the customers loyal. 301 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.413.9890, pfchangs.com
RICK’S WINE CELLAR California This one-room bar and wine shop is located in the same spot where Marin’s first wine bar opened back in 1988. Now it’s owned and operated by Marin natives Rick and Candy Mendell, whose customers call it
In addition to supreme work, advanced esthetics, holistic
In addition to supreme body work, advanced esthetics, holistic wellness coaching, and medicinal acupuncture, we just opened our new wellness apothecary. Modeled after old-world apothecaries, but with a modern twist, you can get expert guidance and indulge in our new services:
Scrub Bar – make your own custom scrub with your choice of exfoliant, carrier oil AND custom fragrance.
Aromatherapy Bar – pick from an expansive selection of the purest essential oils or, make an appointment with our Master Aromatherapist and get a custom blend or even your own perfume!
Make-Up Bar – our expert artist can get you ready for that event or give you a lesson – all using the boutique line of BECCA cosmetics.
Wellness Coaching – a great way to get assistance and a new path to wellness.
photos by Kristin Loken
the “Cheers of Corte Madera.” Offerings include a glass, a flight or a bottle, all of which pair nicely with the cheeses, salami and hot paninis. 207 Corte Madera Ave, 415.927.9466, rickswinecellar.com
FAIRFAX
CHAD’S GARDEN & GRILL CAFE Italian Pop in for a fennel-apple-and-walnut salad on the deck or one of the savory paninis or wraps. Menu includes lots of healthy vegetarian selections. 85 Bolinas Rd, 415.454.7864, chadscafe.com
DEER PARK VILLA Italian This “best place for a party” (Pacific Sun) sits on four garden acres; the Ghiringhelli family has been turning out Italian favorites here since 1937. Come for the famous veal parmesan—or your next big celebration. 367 Bolinas Rd, 415.456.8084, deerparkvilla.com
FRADELIZIO’S Italian Home-style comfort food, fresh fish, and good wine add up to an excellent place for a family night out. 35 Broadway Blvd, 415.459.1618, fradelizios.com
IRON SPRINGS PUB & BREWERY American Grab a beer and a grilled portobello mushroom sandwich—which one Chronicle reviewer calls “the best mushroom dish I have ever tasted”—at the former Ross Valley Brewing Company. 765-A Center Blvd, 415.485.1005, ironspringspub.com
PANCHO VILLA’S Mexican A Fairfax favorite for over 30 years. Since 1976, head chef Francisco has been turning out treats like chile relleno stuffed with jack cheese, cilantro and onion and crab enchiladas topped with a mild tomatillo sauce and sour cream. 1625 Sir Frances Drake Blvd, 415.456.4331, panchovillasresturant.com
SORELLA CAFFÉ Italian Open for over six years, and run by sisters Sonia and Soyara, Sorella, which means ‘sisters’ serves up fresh Italian food with a Northern influence. Customer favorites include ciopino, butternut ravioli, and eggplant parmesan. Another highlight is the giant wheel of Grana Padana cheese, which is passed around the tables.Easy place to bring the kids. 107 Bolinas Rd, 415.258.4520, sorellacaffe.com
GREENBRAE
CAFE Z American A pleasant surprise in the Bon Air shopping mall. Dishes like grilled chicken pesto panini and savory crepes have quickly made this intimate spot a local favorite, and inventive meals keep people coming back for more. 282 Bon Air Center, 415.461.9444, cafez.com
JASON’S Italian The restaurant’s Greenbrae location (it was formerly on Andersen Drive in San Rafael) fills the space that was formerly Giorgio’s. A crowd of regulars enjoys creative seafood dishes with Italian flair. Enjoy the ceviche, crab cakes or blackened salmon on the large outdoor covered patio. 300 Drakes Landing Rd, 415.925.0808, jasonsrestaurant.com
WIPEOUT BAR & GRILL American Who says you can’t go back to being a carefree teenager for a
night? This family-friendly hot spot has surfboards hanging from the ceiling, fun-in-the-sun music, a full bar and large televisions displaying surfers riding waves. The only thing missing is the sand at this surf-style, upbeat eatery. 302 Bon Air Center, 415.461.7400, wipeoutbarandgrill.com
KENTFIELD
HALF DAY CAFE American A tucked-away setting of intertwining ivy and large open windows makes the perfect breakfast nook. Serving breakfast, brunch and lunch, the setting is casual and can get crowded on the weekends. The menu includes lattes, exceptional pastries and much more. Dine on the outdoor patio or inside. 848 College Ave, 415.459.0291, halfdaycafe.com
LARKSPUR
CJ CHINESE CUISINE Chinese A great place to satisfy a craving for wonton soup before catching a show at the Lark Theater. Lunch and takeout are popular too, but the outdoor patio steals the show. 435 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0717
E & 0 TRADING COMPANY Southeast Asian New chef Arnold Eric Wong is keeping the restaurant’s innovative plates as tasty as ever. Without reservations, try a spot at the large communal table. 2231 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.925.0303, eotrading.com
EMPORIO RULLI Italian Pastry chef Gary Rulli is renowned for his Northern Italian specialties and treats. The Larkspur location (there are three others) is a popular spot for lunch as well as coffee and a sweet. 464 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7478, rulli.com
FABRIZIO RISTORANTE Italian Traditional Italian dishes with an extensive wine list from regions all over Italy; outside seating makes the experience even more special. 455 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.3332, fabriziorestaurant.com
LEFT BANK RESTAURANT French Known for award-winning French cuisine and its lively brasserie ambience, this corner spot has rated high with locals for well over a decade. Those with a petite appetite/budget can opt for happy hour (4–6:30 M–F) and enjoy appetizers, all priced under three dollars. 507 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.3331, leftbank.com
MARIN BREWING CO American Grab a cold beer made right on site and pair it with fish and chips—fresh cod dipped in Mt. Tam pale ale batter, served with steak fries and homemade tartar sauce. 1809 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com
PICCO California Chef and celebrated restaurateur Bruce Hill deserves the accolades he has received for this eclectic shared-plate heaven. Dishes like mini-burgers and seasonally driven menu items, along with risotto made every half hour, keep people coming back. The Picco Pizzeria and Wine Bar next door is cozy (not many seats) but already famous for its wood-fired
pizzas, great wine selection and soft-serve Straus Family Creamery ice cream. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com
RUSTIC BAKERY California Organic mouthwatering pastries, breads, and sandwiches are on the menu here including Meyer lemon mascarpone danishes and bacon, avocado and heirloom tomato sandwich with mesclun. 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556, rusticbakery.com
TABLE CAFÉ Indian/American Indian-inspired cafe offers a unique menu featuring entirely organic ingredients. Dishes include seasonal salads, incredible soups and fresh juices. The specialty of the house is dosa, filled with a variety of ingredients and served with savory homemade chutneys. You can also take home a choice of three or four gourmet dinners freshly packed daily. 1167 Magnolia Ave, 415.461.6787
TAM CELLARS Wine bar This wine shop includes an elegant bar with seating for up to 36 people, 30 wines by the glass and tasting flights. Tam Cellars specializes in hard-to-find wines and smallproduction wineries. Enjoy a glass or bottle to pair with the selection of appetizers. Live music on Thursdays. 1803 Larkspur Landing, 415.461.9463, tamcellars.com
TAVERN AT LARK CREEK American The next chapter in the 1888 Victorian Murphy House is being written by chef Randy Lewis and culinary director Adrian Hoffman. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7766, tavernatlarkcreek.com
THE MELTING POT French Just across the street from the Larkspur Ferry terminal is a round red-brick haven for fondue fans. Share the “Big Night Out” feast featuring chef’s specialties, or design your own spread with cheese fondue, salad, choice of meat entrée and chocolate fondue dessert. 125 E. Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.461.6358, themeltingpot.com
YANKEE PIER American This family-friendly casual clam shack is harbored in a quaint house built in 1924 as a private residence. Though known for beer-battered fish’n’ chips, clam chowder and tasty salads, Yankee Pier serves fresh seafood delivered daily from both coasts with special dishes by chef Chris Ball. 286 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7676, yankeepier.com
MILL VALLEY
AVATAR’S PUNJABI BURRITOS Indian A small and friendly place with only a few tables but myriad Indian-inspired burrito dishes to choose from. Try the curry chicken or Jamaican jerk wrapped in warm naan. Cash only, but worth the trip to the ATM. 15 Madrona St, 415.381.8293
BALBOA CAFE MILL VALLEY California The San Francisco institution has already become a place to see and be seen in Mill Valley, especially after the 142 Throckmorton Comedy nights. Come for the pan-roasted Alaskan halibut or risotto but stay for the amazing burgers. 38 Miller Ave, 415.381.7321, balboacafe.com
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Best Family Vacation Ever!
4-11 Day Salmon River Adventures ~ Idaho KIDS RAFT FREE Gourmet Food, World Class Fishing, Fun Rapids An Experience of a Lifetime! Middle Fork River Expeditions www.idahorivers.com ~ 800-801-5146
BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and chili-lime “brick” chicken are a few of the satisfying, comfort-food-type menu items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s. The warm dark-wooded bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com
BUNGALOW 44 American Much like sister restaurant Buckeye Roadhouse, Bungalow 44 offers a mean dose of homey carbo- and lipidladen dishes, such as the burger, fried chicken and truffle fries, as well as a few lighter items. The bar is a neighborhood favorite, known for tasty spirits and eye candy. 44 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com
CACTUS CAFE AND TAQUERIA Mexican Tucked in a little nook across from Whole Foods, this is the perfect spot to sit down with the family or grab burritos to go. The burritos themselves are enormous and the tacos are out of this world. Their signature creamy Diablo sauce has a spicy kick to it and is favored by the locals. 393 Miller Ave, 415.388.8226
CAFE DEL SOUL California Beware of addiction. Once you stop in for the deliciously fresh Hummus Yummus wrap, you’ll have to come back to sample the chipotle Sunrise Rice Bowl; then it will be the Thai It Up wrap with peanut sauce washed down with ginger limeade that brings you back, and so on. Casual lunch spot, great for takeout. 247 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.1852, cafedelsoul.net
CHAMPAGNE French Enjoy a croque monsieur alfresco, linger over a flaky, buttery croissant with a cappuccino, or pick up chocolate-dipped strawberries for your next dinner party. All that and more at this French bakery cafe. 41 Throckmorton Avenue, 415.380.0410, millvalley. champagnebakery.com
DIPSEA CAFE Comfort One word: biscuits. This longtime breakfast spot has been serving up tasty pancakes and egg dishes with homemade biscuits since 1986. Try a biscuit with a poached egg, a biscuit with sausage—or just plain butter. Lunch specialties include BLTs and tuna melts and generous Cobb salads. Now serving dinner. 200 Shoreline Hwy, 415.381.0298, dipseacafe.com
FRANTOIO RISTORANTE ITALIANO Italian
Known for its in-house olive press, superior olive oil and excellent Italian cuisine, this is a great location for an intimate dinner, large groups and anything in between. Happy hour starts at 4:30 in the sizable, comfortable bar area, where you can snack on antipasti or order your whole meal. Owned by Roberto Zecca and Chef Duilio Valenti, both from Milano; the kitchen uses local and organic ingredients—it’s the Italian way. For special occasions and private parties, reserve the olive-press room. 152 Shoreline Hwy, 415.289.5777, frantoio.com
INDIA PALACE Indian Known as “that great restaurant in the Travelodge,” India Palace is a favorite among the takeout crowd; however, eating on site is a treat too. 707 Redwood Hwy, 415.388.3350
GIRA POLLI Italian Not in the mood to cook? Pick up a wood-fired rotisserie chicken or family dinner from this hot spot, or stick around for the specialty pasta and a glass of wine. 590 East Blithedale Ave, 415.383.6040
HARMONY Chinese Dishes here are an infusion of many flavors. The barbecue pork bun is filled with house-made roasted meat in a savory sauce; fresh mussels are accented with red chili and Thai basil. Pair your pick with wine, beer or tea. Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmonyrestaurantgroup.com
JOE’S TACO LOUNGE Mexican A longtime local favorite, Joe’s serves up regular fare such as tasty fish tacos, burritos and enchiladas as well as more unusual items like Mexican pizza, tofu salad, and crab tostados. Colorful interior and (usually) quick service makes this a fun, easy stop. And if there are too many unsupervised kids for a peaceful meal, takeout is easy too. Alone? Grab a magazine and seat at the counter and enjoy the action. 382 Miller, 415.383.8164
LA BOULANGE BAKERY Take your pastries and coffee in a bowl and lounge on the patio for a relaxing morning as you’re practically transported to Paris at this adorable bakery. The staff is professional and friendly. Be sure to try their outstanding breads, as they’ll put your standard sandwich bread to shame. 800 Redwood Hwy, 415.381.1260, baybread.com
LA GINESTRA Italian A favorite family spot for over 30 years; getting a table or booth can take a while. While this old-school Italian eatery is known for traditional pastas, veal dishes, pizzas and dry martinis, the familiar wait staff is also part of the attraction. 127 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0224
LUCINDA’S MEXICAN FOOD Mexican This closet-sized eatery off the highway is treasured by regulars for its friendly service and authentic Mexican food. Ingredients are fresh and burritos are highly recommended. Dining space itself is tiny, so call ahead to bypass the line and bring your mouth-watering meal back to the office. 930 Redwood Hwy, 415.3880754
MAMA’S ROYAL CAFE American Old-timers love this fabulous kitsch-decorated breakfast spot. The menu offers crepes, brioche French toast and other a.m. specialties served all day; stay awhile and try the sandwiches for lunch. 387 Miller Ave, 415.388.3261
MARIA MARIA Mexican The menu at Maria Maria draws from diverse regional cuisines of Mexico, including slow-braised duck tacos, guacamole prepared tableside and Guajillo marinated red snapper filet. 651 E. Blithedale, 415.381.1070. mariamariarestaurants.com
MILL VALLEY COFFEE SHOP American Sure, it could use a steam clean, but the regulars keep coming back for the pancakes and eggs. Great place to bring the kids. 4 Locust Ave, 415.388.6958
PEARL’S PHAT BURGERS American Deemed by the New York Times, as a silver-spoon alternative to a greasy spoon diner, Pearl’s “hipster denizen”
(another NYT phrasing) are loyal to the these big juicy -all natural patties (vegetarian, turkey, beef, buffalo or grilled chicken) served up with tasty sides such as garlic, or sweet potato fries, shakes and seasonal fruit whirls (smoothies). Eat-in if you can get a seat, or better yet be a hero and take it home for dinner. 8 East Blithedale Ave. 415.381.6010
PIAZZA D’ANGELO Italian It’s always a party at this long-standing hot spot. A great place to meet up with friends for a fresh plate of pasta, zuppa di pesce or pollo novello, or make some new friends at the bar. 22 Miller Ave, 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com
PIATTI RISTORANTE AND BAR Italian The staff prides itself on capturing the warm and welcoming atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria. Try for a table at the window for a truly exceptional view right on the water. Take a peek at the impressive collection of Italian wines to go with your rustic seasonal Italian meal. 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com
RAIN TREE CAFÉ American/Homestyle In the Strawberry Village shopping center, casual American fare: soups, salads, burgers, sandwiches and gourmet crepes. Savor the Mill Valley crepe: smoked salmon, capers, spinach, and Dijon in a fresh warm wrap. Breakfast is served all day. 610 Strawberry Village, 415.380.8886, caferaintree.com
ROBATA GRILL AND SUSHI Japanese Robata translates as “by the fireside”; fittingly, food here can be cooked on an open fire and served in appetizer-
size portions to pass around the table. Or simply order your own sushi or entree fron the menu. 591 Redwood Hwy, 415.381.8400, robatagrill.com
SMALL SHED FLATBREADS California As a slow food chef, Ged Robertson uses only local, mostly organic ingredients. Crowd favorites include the mt. tamal-pie, a delicious fresh salad atop a flatbread. 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, smallshed.com
THEP LELA Thai This jewel is tucked away in the back of the new Strawberry Village. Diners come for the tasty kee mao noodles, pad thai, fresh rolls and extensive bar menu. It’s also a great place for lunch. 615 Strawberry Village, 415.383.3444, theplela.com
TOAST American Take the kids for an omelet or pancake breakfast at this cozy venue; lunch and dinner, too. 31 Sunnyside Ave, 415.388.2500, toastmillvalley.com
TONY TUTTO PIZZA Italian Tony has been pouring his passion for pizza into his cooking for two decades and is now sharing his family recipes: “It’s all about excellence in pizza, sprinkled with musical flavors and kissed with colorful passion. We feature creative artisan-style pizza using the best imported, natural and local organic ingredients.” Mostly outdoor seating, so dress accordingly. Stop by or take out. 246 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.383.8646, tonytuttopizza.com
TSUKIJI SUSHI Japanese Named for the largest fish market in world, Tsukiji is owned by Roy and
Chanel Liu. The couple earned their sushi stripes operating Morpho in San Francisco and Akira in San Rafael. Helping then behind the sushi bar is former Sushi Ran head sushi chef, Haruo Komatsu. The Tokyo Tsukiji fish market is where all the fish is sourced. 24 Sunnyside Ave. 415.383.1382
VASCO Italian Whether you’re at a table, the bar or the back counter, you can expect an intimate and tasty dining experience at this one-room trattoria. Try one of the restaurant’s pasta dishes or thincrust pizzas. 106 Throckmorton Ave, 415.381.3343
NOVATO
BOCA STEAK & SEAFOOD South American
Bring a date or celebrate a special event at this classic steakhouse, which celebrates chef George Morrone’s (Aqua, Fifth Floor) Argentinean heritage. The grass- and grain- fed steaks are cooked over oak and almond. Head to the restaurant early for a three-course prix-fixe dinner. 340 Ignacio Blvd, 415.883.0901, bocasteak.com
CACTI GRILL American Grill A former bell tower church, the family-friendly restaurant now boasts a covered patio and serves a 21-day dry-aged steak and filet mignon enchiladas. 1200 Grant Ave, 415.898.2234, cactigrill.com
CALGANG KITCHEN Owned and operated by the family that used to run Jhan Thong if Northgate food court fame, Calgang Kitchen recently made its debut in the new Northgate shopping center
in Terra Linda much to the joy of its devoted regulars. Now a sit down restaurant that includes a bar serving organic beers and wines, you can stay and enjoy the stylish décor or step right up to their steam table for delicious take out orders in their eco-friendly containers. 194 Northgate One 415.499.3501
EN CANTO Mexican Barbed wire orbs, lights, festive music, and an addictive bean dip sets this family-friendly restaurant apart from the plethora of others in Marin. The sting of waiting for a table can be relieved by the En Canto House Margarita on the patio. 940 Seventh St, 415.892.1471, encantorestaurant.com
FINNEGAN’S MARIN American This pub-style restaurant features tasty appetizers, grilled flatbread pizzas and entrées, including New York steak, garlic herb chicken and a braised beef and pork ragu that will really stick to your ribs. Wine, beer and cocktails are available. 877 Grant Ave, 415.899.1516, finnegansmarin.com
GRAZIE Italian Locals love this family-owned and -run Grant Avenue restaurant for delicious paninis, salads and the unbeatable homemade cookies. Enjoy good weather on the outside patio or people watch in this always-bustling restaurant. 823 Grant Ave, Ste E, 415.878.0202
MIKADO SUSHI This beautifully decorated, family owned Sushi spot has been open for about two years in its Terra Linda location. Serving both raw and cooked dishes, and 20 different choices of
Sake. Dine in or stay home and get it delivered. 248 Northgate One, 415.446.5543
PORTELLI ROSSI Italian This casual cafe offers huge portions (most priced under $20), a garden patio and a family-friendly environment. Stop in on Saturday and Sunday nights for the live jazz band on the patio. The early-bird special includes a three-course meal for only $12 every night if you’re seated before 6 p.m. Closed Mondays. 868 Grant Ave, 415.892.6100, portellirossi.com
SONOMA LATINA GRILL Mexican As if Novato didn’t already have some great taquerias, the owners of La Tortilla Factory in Sonoma have brought us Sonoma Latina Grill. The menu includes standbys like tacos, burritos and enchiladas made with fresh, local and organic ingredients, plus a list of favorites from the Sonoma location. In keeping with the fresh/non-processed theme, the tortillas are made by hand with natural and organic whole grains. 5800 Nave Dr, 415.883.2662, sonomalatinagrill.com
TOAST American Sister to the popular Mill Valley location, Toast Novato features outdoor dining and architecture by Stanley Saitowitz and still has the great dishes by executive chef Michael Garcia that have made the southern Marin spot a not-to-be-missed destination. 5800 Nave Dr, 415.382.1144, toastnovato.com
TUSCANY COUNTRY GRILL Italian The Chicken Pesto Panini and Eggplant Parmagina are among many of the favorites at this charming and spacious
Italian eatery. The menu is eclectic, prices are fair and the portions are enormous, so be prepared for leftovers throughout the week. It brings in a bit of traffic during lunchtime so make reservations or arrive early. 1516 Grant Ave, 998.2800
WILDFOX American Perched on the hillside off Highway 101, this rustic mesquite grill offers a menu full of comfort food and drinks, like the smooth cosmos, and seafood risotto, with bits of butternut squash. In the mood for a cigar? The restaurant has an extensive list. 225 Alameda del Prado, 415.883.9125, wildfoxrestaurant.com
ROSS
CAFE MARMALADE French A quaint one-room coffeehouse centrally situated near Ross Common. Get there early for the full selection of pastries to enjoy with fresh-squeezed orange juice. 22 Ross Common, 415.461.2205
MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS French This gem of a restaurant serves up locally farmed produce, wild and fresh seafood and free-range meats prepared with an artisan’s touch. The wine and beer list is extensive. 23 Ross Common, 415.925.9200, marcheauxfleursrestaurant.com
TRATTORIA FRESCO Italian Every neighborhood deserves a one-room trattoria like this one. The service is friendly and the farmers’-market-fresh food is fabulous—especially the gnocchi. 13 Ross Common, 415.464.0915, frescotrattoria.com
singin’ in the Rain
What a glorious feeling to be at the Marin Farmers Markets, especially on those rainy days. We’ve learned to embrace the elements, the puddles included, and urge you to do the same, at least until we realize our dream of a permanent, covered marketplace. While stormy clouds may chase fair-weather eaters from the place, we say bring on the rain. A trip to the farmers market is an enlivening experience anytime of year, and those rainy days are not exceptions, but exceptional.
Marin Civic Center (Sun & Thurs, 8-1, ALL YEAR)
Novato (Tues, 4-8, May-september)
Fairfax (Wed, 4-8, May-september)
Newark (Sun, 9-1, ALL YEAR)
OAKLAND — Grand Lake (Sat, 9-2, ALL YEAR)
Hayward (Sat, 9-1, ALL YEAR)
Photo by Curtis Myers
S ANDRA B IRD D ESIGNS
D ESIGN /B UILD F IRM
Something Different Mon. - Sat. 10:30 am - 6:00 pm www.fancythatgiftshop.com
Art, Gifts & Accessories 47 C Tamal Vista Blvd., Corte Madera (415) 945-8863 • Next to DMV
SAN ANSELMO
AVA California Chef Dan Baker, of Marché aux Fleurs in Ross, has another winner with AVA, which features a California-only wine list and a menu where nearly all the ingredients come from within 100 miles—if not the Marin County Farmers’ Market. The small menu includes seasonal flatbreads, pasta and six seasonal main dishes. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.453.3407, avamarin.com
BUBBA’S DINER American Kids will be begging for seconds and so will adults at this hopping local hangout. Burgers, shakes and fries and homemade apple pie. 566 San Anselmo Ave, 415.459.6862, bubbas-diner.net
COMFORTS Cafe This cozy spot features local ingredients and serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. Be sure to try the Philly cheesesteak and Chinese chicken salad, both classics. 335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com
CUCINA RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR Italian Proprietor Jack Krietzman (of Pacific Heights’ Jackson Fillmore) has brought Milan to Marin with his 42-seat family restaurant. Relax with a glass of wine and have a slice from the to-die-for thin pizzas, topped with items like truffle oil and fontina cheese. 510 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.2942, cucinarestaurantandwinebar.com
DREAM FARM California As the website claims, a taste of rural Marin in downtown San Anselmo, showcasing the bounty of our area’s awardwinning farms, dairies, and fisheries. Best yet is the price point: dishes range from under $6 to nothing over $20. 198 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.453.9898, dreamfarmmarin.com
INSALATA’S Mediterranean Award-winning chef Heidi Insalata Krahling offers Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes prepared with local organic produce and artisan meats. 120 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.457.7700, insalatas.com
LOCOCO’S PIZZERIA Italian Worth driving to from all over Marin, and it’s an easy place to meet up with friends. The pizza crust is divine as is the house salad. Good spot to come with the entire family. Closed Mondays. 638 San Anselmo Ave, 415.453.1238, lococossananselmo.com
MARINITAS Mexican The sister restaurant of Insalata’s, Marinitas continues to flourish as it brings Latin flair home to Marin. It may not be as cheap as most Mexican restaurants in the area, but this is not your typical south-of-the-border spot. The festive atmosphere and funky decor complement the excellent food for a classy, lively experience. Finish strong with the rich Tres Leches Cake. This place gets packed, so make reservations. 218 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.454.8900, marinitas.net
ORCHID THAI Thai Owners Peggy and Tom Thongnopneua create an inviting atmosphere with their warm smiles and helpful menu suggestions. The fare here has won “Best of Marin” awards many times over. 726 San Anselmo Ave, 415.457.9470, orchidthairestaurant.com
TACO JANE’S Mexican Named after the owner’s mother, this casual but colorful place welcomes the whole family. Don’t miss out on Jane’s handmade agave margarita or griddled plantains. 21 Tamalpais Ave, 415.454.6562, tacojanes.com
SAN GERONIMO
RED TAIL BAR & GRILL California The beautiful views overlooking the San Geronimo Valley redwoods and wildlife will captivate you while you indulge in the new menu featuring West Marin meats, cheeses and produce. 5800 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.488.4030
TWO BIRD CAFÉ California This roadside cafe has it all, including fresh fish and goodies from the garden. These guys were doing local and sustainable even before it was so popular. 625 San Geronimo Valley Dr, 415.488.0105, twobirdcafe.com
SAN RAFAEL
BOMBAY GARDEN Indian The restaurant offers a large menu of richly flavored Northern and Southern Indian Cuisine. There are often Bollywood movies or videos playing on a flat-screen TV to add a little entertainment to the meal. 909 Fourth St, 415.459.9555, dinebombaygarden.com
CAFE GRATITUDE Raw The waiters might push the affirmations theme a bit too much, but the tasty (and healthy) food is worth it. Besides the knowledge you’re supporting local farmers and sustainable agriculture, the raw food and vegan samosas are hard to resist. Best to bring a group and sample lots of items on the menu. 2200 Fourth St, 415.824.4652, withthecurrent.com
CREPEVINE American Bistro/Creperie Casual dining, outdoor seating and a diverse menu of savory crepes (such as the Italian crepe filled with roasted peppers, eggplant, onions, artichoke hearts, tomato sauce and mozzarella). Sweet and savory crepes are available all day long, as is breakfast. 908 Fourth St, 415.257.8822, crepevine.com
LOTUS RESTAURANT American Bistro/Creperie
Lotus Restaurant has earned Hall of Fame kudos from Pacific Sun readers for nearly a decade. Family owned and operated, it serves up North Indian cuisine with vegan and vegetarian options in a casual pink-tablecloth setting. 704 Fourth St, 415.456.5808, lotusrestaurant.com
MULBERRY STREET PIZZERIA Italian Chef
Ted Rowe won first place in the Food Network Television Pizza Challenge with his Mushroom Lover’s Pizza—sautéed mushrooms in a creamy garlic sauce atop a fresh pizza crust. Located across from the Smith Ranch Road movie theaters, it’s a great place to grab dinner and a movie. 101 Smith Ranch Rd, 415.472.7272, mulberry-streetpizzeria.com
NAPOLI Italian Napoli Italian is a family owned and run restaurant with a unique craft-beer program. “Our wine list is not priced like the usual restaurant wine list, but at about store retail pricing,” says David Amet, son-in-law of the owner,
Voices of Dominican Choices Spring 2010 Leadership Lecture Series
LOUANN BRIZENDINE
Preferred seating available with purchase of
and wine director, “wine was meant to be enjoyed, shared and consumed, not just praised in the bottle on the wall like a trophy.” So, they keep the prices down and the libations flowing. About 45 wines and 25 beers (including some from Marin) are on the list at any given time. The food (Pizza and Pasta) is the result of taking East Coast style Italian fair and merging it with Marin and the bay area. 869 4th St, 415.459.3315
SABOR OF SPAIN Spanish Named Best Tapas/ Small Dishes restaurant in Marin by the Pacific Sun in 2006, this Spanish wine bar is a great place for a date or a big party. The gazpacho is world class here and a must-try. 1301 Fourth St, 415.457.8466, saborofspain.com
SAN RAFAEL JOE’S Italian Guido and Theresa Farina are now running this Marin institution, which has been famous for serving up sophisticated yet casual Italian and American fare since 1947. Great for large parties, the dining room holds 240. The Pacific red snapper meuniére and roast sirloin of beef are standouts. 931 Fourth St, 415.456.2425, srjoes.com
SEAFOOD PEDDLER Seafood A great place to seek out fresh seafood in a warm and inviting environment. Varieties of East and West Coast fish flown in daily. Dine indoors or out, or better yet, rent out the banquet room for a party. 100 Yacht Club Dr, 415.460.6669, seafoodpeddler.com
SOL FOOD Puerto Rican With south-of-theborder treats like yellow rice, beans, plantains and authentic Puerto Rican dishes, this tiny oneroom eatery on Fourth Street just off Highway 101. There is often a line at the Lincoln Ave location during prime dining hours, but worth the wait. 732 Fourth St, and 901 Lincoln Ave, 415.451.4765, solfoodrestaurant.com
SUSHI TO DAI FOR Japanese Snagging a seat in this popular sushi spot can be a challenge, but patience will be rewarded with tasty and fresh sashimi, unique sushi rolls and great prices. 869 Fourth St, 415.721.0392
THERESA & JOHNNY’S COMFORT FOOD American Cooking like Mom used to make. Drop by for eggs Benedict, tuna melts, coffee and some of the best milk shakes around. 817 Fourth St, 415.259.0182, theresa-and-johnnys.com
YET WAH Chinese Named after the founder’s wife (Yet refers to the moon, Wah to brightness), this beloved mainstay offers dim sum daily along with the traditional Chinese menu. Groove to live music in the Kung Fu Lounge. 1238 Fourth St, 415.460.9883, yetwahsanrafael.com
SAUSALITO
ANGELINO RESTAURANT Italian Father-andson chefs Pasquale and Alfredo Ancona offer handmade pastas and seasonal antipasti at this authentic Italian restaurant, which has been serving food from the Campania region for the past 24 years. 621 Bridgeway, 415.331.5225, angelinorestaurant.com
ARAWAN THAI RESTAURANT Thai Known for its consistently tasty Thai food and efficient, gracious service. For light fare try the imperial or Siamese rolls (vegetarian), or dig into the delicious pad thai noodles or garlic and pepper prawns. Arawan Thai has been a local favorite for over nine years. 47 Caledonia St, 415.332.0882, arawan.com
AVATAR’S Indian Looking for “the best meal of your life”? Let owner Ashok Kumar order for you. One-room casual dining for lunch and dinner. 2656 Bridgeway, 415.332.8083, eatavatar.com
CAFFÉ DIVINO Tuscan Locals come for the tasty pastas and salads, as well as coffee drinks, in a funky one-room setting. Free delivery in Sausalito. 37 Caledonia St, 415.331.9355, caffedivinosausalito.com
CIBO Cafe Husband and wife team Alfredo and Tera Ancona, offer a menu filled with tarts, croissants, cookies, paninis and soups. Every dish is made from scratch with local and seasonal products. And now Marinites no longer have to drive over the bridge to get famous Blue Bottle coffee, or opt for homemade organic dark hot chocolate. Located in the historic brick building at 1201 Bridgeway, 415.331.CIBO. cibosausalito.com
FENG NIAN Chinese Busy at lunch and dinner, this spacious hangout has been a popular spot for wonton soup, potstickers and daily specials for nearly two decades. For an indulgent treat order the Szechwan crispy calamari or honey-glazed walnut prawn. Free delivery. 2650 Bridgeway, 415.331.5300, fengnian.com
FISH Seafood It is all about the fresh fish here. You can dine at one of the picnic tables or purchase fresh fish to cook at home. Casual and bring cash (and lots of it!). 350 Harbor Dr, 415.331.3474, 331fish.com
HORIZONS Seafood/American There isn’t a better place for waterfront deck dining with stunning views of Angel Island, Alcatraz and the San Francisco skyline. Horizons is a favorite with locals and visitors. Enjoy lunch, dinner and brunch daily, featuring fresh seafood, salads, sandwiches, pasta and steak. Deck dining, valet parking and docking facilities available. A full bar serves draft beers and specialty cocktails and has an extensive wine selection. 558 Bridgeway, 415.331.3232, horizonssausalito.com
LE GARAGE French Escape the touristy Sausalito spots and grab brunch right on the water at this cherished site. The atmosphere is animated with light French music playing in the background (think Amélie). The Kobe Burger, though not as Parisian as the other menu items, is to die for. Also consider the much-adored croque-monsieur for under $10. Opt for indoor or outdoor seating. 85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625, legaragebistrosausalito.com
LIGHTHOUSE American Blueberry pancakes, omelets and Danish-influenced dishes are the draw here. It’s a small space, so be prepared to wait. 1311 Bridgeway, 415.331.3034
MURRAY CIRCLE American Enjoy the sun on the deck of this Cavallo Point restaurant. Locals say they come back for the fresh seasonal ingredients
like wild sturgeon and Wolfe Ranch quail that chef Joseph Humphrey cooks up. 601 Murray Circle, 415.339.4750, cavallopoint.com
PARADISE BAY American Enjoy the sun or dine under the stars at this waterfront restaurant. Patrons’ favorites are the organic beef sandwiches and fresh Maine lobster clubs. 1200 Bridgeway, 415.331.3226, paradisebaysausalito.com
PICCOLO TEATRO Italian Translating into “Little Theater” in Italian, Piccolo Teatro used to be a theater before it became the exquisite restaurant it is today. Executive Chef Travis Flood spends weeks mastering each dish. Customers seem unanimous in finding the food quality, service, and ambience phenomenal. 739 Bridgeway Blvd. 415.332.0739, piccoloteatrodisausalito.com
POGGIO Italian A great place to celebrate a special occasion or simply enjoy a night out. Executive chef Peter McNee cooks up delicious Northern Italian cuisine using fresh and local ingredients, including produce from the nearby Poggio chef garden. 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com
SAYLOR’S RESTAURANT AND BAR California/ Mexican Marin’s first tequila bar offers over 100 tequila options. Nightly meal specials include chicken pot pie, roasted salmon, baby back ribs, and traditional meatloaf. If you’re in for a wild night of entertainment there are frequent events like margarita night and flight night tequilatasting parties. The private dining room is perfect for large parties. 2009 Bridgeway, 415.332.1512, saylorsrestaurantandbar.com
SCOMA’S Seafood Whether it’s for the view of San Francisco or the historical background, visitors flock to this location and its romantic setting. The array of fresh seafood and meat dishes are as appetizing as the Italian pasta dishes. 588 Bridgeway, 415.332.9551, scomassausalito.com
STEPS OF ROME Italian This local landmark has evolved from a cafe into a full-service restaurant offering pasta, pizza, sandwiches and salad in an authentic Italian ambience. Find the green, white and red awning and you’re there. 1000 Bridgeway, 415.332.7660, caffetrieste.com
SPINNAKER Seafood Chef Phil Collins excels at preparing seafood, and it shows in the beautiful plate presentations. Set right on the water, this romantic spot is great for an evening occasion. 100 Spinnaker Dr, 415.332.1500, thespinnaker.com
SUSHI RAN Japanese Fresh, innovative small plates are just big enough to share, the traditional sushi is melt-in-your-mouth good and the wine, cocktail and sake lists keep the pickiest barfly well satisfied. Even the prices don’t deter the herd of sushi enthusiasts, who line up nightly to partake; reservations required in main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com
TOMMY’S WOK Chinese S crupuously fresh ingredients and free-range chicken make the yellow coconut milk curry here divine. Nice atmosphere and good takeout. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.332.5818, tommyswok.com
WELLINGTON’S California British transport
Jeremy John and his wife Jill have created an expansive (2,400-square-foot) wine bar with a homey feel, board games, views of the bay and a worldly cellar featuring affordable bottles and special reserves. The menu offers wines by the glass for $5 to $20 and tasting flights of any three wines for $12. 300 Turney St, 415.331.9463, wellingtonswine.com
WINSHIPS RESTAURANT American The morethan-four-decades-old nautical-themed restaurant is luring locals and tourists with hearty breakfasts and lunch options like tender fried calamari, clam strips, mussels and a giant prawn cocktail. 670 Bridgeway, 415.332.1454, winships.com
TIBURON
COTTAGE EATERY California Foodies rejoice. Executive chef Edward Carew doesn’t disappoint with his creative and thoughtful menu full of locally sourced foods. The restaurant itself is familyfriendly and has a homey, bed-and-breakfast feel. The baby octopus and the meatballs are consistently raved about. Closed Mondays. 114 Main St, 415.789.5636, thecottageeatery.com
DYNASTY CHINESE Mu shu pork and pot stickers are among the menu choices; located near the point of Tiburon. 1801 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.6766, tiburondynasty.com
GINZA Japanese Whether you simply go for the volcano roll or indulge in the eight-course Omakase meal, the fresh ingredients coupled with the tremendous view of San Francisco keep this place busy, so make reservations or get there early. 41 Main St, 415.789.5123, ginzasushi-tiburon.com
GUAYMAS Mexican Situated right next to the Tiburon ferry terminal on the waterfront. The touch-it-you’re-so-close city views and outdoor seating make it a great place to bring visitors on a warm summer night. Happy hour is 5 to 7 p.m. Monday through Thursday. Menu includes specialties like puerco macho—pork loin chop with grilled plantain, topped with an ancho chile, garlic and onion sauce. 5 Main St, 415.435.6300, guaymasrestaurant.com
MILANO Italian Located in the Cove Shopping Center, this family-owned neighborhood spot is known for its pasta and friendly service. A good place to take the kids—or catering option for your next birthday party. 1 Blackfield Dr, 415.388.9100
MING’S Chinese Hospitable service and large portions are just two of the reasons this familyrun business is a favorite. Try the sautéed mango chicken with rice and don’t miss the lunch specials. 1550 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.4312
NEW MORNING CAFE American Sit outside or indoors at this casual cafe. On a sunny morning, tables will be filled with locals enjoying the sun and extensive breakfast menu; lunch served as well. 1696 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.4315
ROONEY’S CAFÉ & GRILL American If you’re old enough to remember Cheers on prime time, here
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BLUESTONE MAIN
is your dinner spot. There’s not a long bar, nor a bartender named Sam (he’s across the street); however, there is an undeniable neighborhood feeling in this one-room cottage dining room. 38 Main St, 415.435.1911
SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE American Everyone knows Sam’s deck is the prime spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole, but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. Enjoy trans-fat-free calamari, fresh fish, seasonal salads and pastas. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com
SERVINO RISTORANTE Italian With people like Warren Buffett and Bill Gates raving about his pizza, Angelo Servino is doing something right. Some people come for the spacious and popular bar; some people come for the great food and friendly service; the titans of industry, it seems, opt for the pepperoni. Spacious bar, and weekend music is also a big draw. 9 Main St, 415.435.2676, servino.com
TIBURON GRILL California The atmosphere here is truly enchanting with two outdoor patios, two indoor fireplaces, and candlelit tables during the evening. No item is more than $20, including the steak, with entrées falling in the $14 to $18 range. Happy hour is Monday through Friday from 4 to 7 p.m. 1651 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.5996, thelodgeattiburon.com
WEST MARIN
DRAKES BEACH CAFE American If you’re OK with the long drive, you can’t beat the view and the fresh local ingredients used to make the burgers, salads and soups at this casual spot (Inverness). Walk on the beach after lunch. 1 Drakes Beach Rd, 415.669.1297, drakesbeachcafe.com
NICK’S COVE American This collaboration of famed restaurateurs Pat Kuleto and Mark Franz has attracted visitors (and accolades) nationwide. Large windows open the 130-seat eatery to the picturesque Tomales Bay and Hog Island. Menu consists of the freshest available local seafood, oysters and bounty from nearby West Marin farms including Bodega Bay Dungeness crab cake and Tomales Bay clam chowder (Marshall). 23240 Hwy 1, 415.663.1033, nickscove.com
OLEMA INN California One of the most charming settings around, this inn and restaurant is a great destination lunch spot for a Sunday drive, or dinner every night. The menu includes imaginative combinations using regional and organic greens while the bar features a full wine list (Olema). 10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.663.9559, theolemainn.com
OSTERIO STELLINA California Whether strolling in from a day of hiking or celebrating a romantic anniversary, Osterio Stellina accommodates any occasion. The menu is Italian-inspired using organic, local ingredients. Don’t leave without indulging in the standout lemon ice cream sandwich (Point Reyes). 11285 Hwy 1, 415.663.9988, steriastellina.com
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HAMILTON FIELD
From military base to home base
BY DAN JEWETT PHOTOS TIM PORTER
IN JUST OVER 10 YEARS THE FORMER AIR FORCE BASE at Hamilton Field in Novato has transformed from a forgotten and run-down piece of land into a vibrant residential community as well as a location for some of the most cutting-edge businesses in the state.
The base, named after Marin fighting ace Lloyd Andrew Hamilton, who was killed in World War I, was always special with its palm trees, Spanish-style construction and abundance of clear days perfect for flying but had fallen into disrepair. Hamilton was constructed by the military in the 1930s and returned to the city of Novato in 1974; most of it remained relatively untouched until the late ’90s.
“It was in wretched condition,” confirms Barker Pacific Group managing director Michael Barker. “There was no maintenance and there were animals in the hangars and broken glass; it was a hazard.”
Barker’s commercial development group has spent the last 26 years producing quality office space, but the concept of spending more than $100 million to create a first-class office community in seven of the nine large aircraft hangars on the former base took some vision and a leap of faith.
“It was a bodacious move; there was no perceived market depth,” he says. “We were out there on the edge of risk.” But the risk paid off and now the totally refurbished hangars are all leased — except for the space formerly occupied by the first client, Marin-based Smith & Hawken, which recently closed its doors — and accounts for 5 percent of Marin’s more than 8 million square feet of office space with a client list that is equally impressive.
“We build them out according to the company’s specifications,” Barker says of the custom office spaces for innovative companies like Birkenstock, Nihilistic, Sony, Take-Two Interactive Software and, more recently, ImageMovers Digital, a state-of-the-art digital film studio run by director Robert Zemeckis and owned by Walt Disney. “I think we have proven that if you create an interesting environment in a place like Marin County you attract creative companies and upscale talent.”
Hamilton offers much more than office space. It also boasts one of the largest wetland restoration projects in the country as well as more than 1,300 homes, a library, gym, pool, arts center, community foundation, schools, skate park, a nearby mall and even the base for the U.S. Coast Guard’s Pacific Strike Team.
“Hamilton has come into its own,” says Spiro Stratigos, a Frank Howard Allen realtor who was one of the first residents to move with his family to Hamilton in 2000. “It has taken 10 years, but most of what was promised when we moved in has been delivered.
“I love that I can just step out the door and go for a walk or take the kids to the park or the Hamilton Cafe or to school,” he says. His family particularly enjoys the sense of neighborhood.
Another of Hamilton’s unique assets is the standout Marin Museum of Contemporary Art at the Novato Arts Center located in the base’s former administration buildings. The center also houses a gallery, two artists’ groups and 43 spacious studios with beautiful views of tree-lined streets.
“This space was started by artists, spearheaded by artists and is run by artists,” says part-time gallery director and full-time artist Sandi Miot. “This place is in my blood and in my heart.
“We all get stimulation from each other; the energy is so good here,” she says, and fellow artists are always willing to offer an impromptu critique to help a colleague out of an artistic jam.
But studio space in Marin MOCA shares a trait common to all of Hamilton Field: it is at capacity. “When property comes onto the market, it sells,” says Stratigos, who specializes in Hamilton Field and is president of the Hamilton Field of Marin Association of home owners.
Although there is not much inventory on the base at this time, new homes at the Landing at Hamilton Field are being constructed right now and are expected to be available in April.
Janet Williamson & Associates
Luxury Homes in Marin County
1896 MOUNTAIN VIEW, TIBURON
Fabulous contemporary villa completed in March 2009. If it’s about the view this is it–perfectly sited to captivate world class views of San Francisco, GG bridge and the Bay. Infinity pool, spa, sauna, lawns and landscaped gardens. Stunning architectural detail throughout. Open flowing floor plan with four bedroom suites, office and media room. Offered at $5,995,000
Williamson
www.JanetWilliamson.com
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321 Summit, Mill Valley • $5,500,000 This beautiful gated estate combines quality craftsmanship with a comfortable, well-designed 5 bedroom, 4.5 bath floor plan. Situated on a south-facing lot with spectacular views, the home features a formal living room, dining room, family room, TV room, office and solarium. Vaulted ceilings, exposed beams, cherry wood and limestone floors, Venetian plaster walls, and custom mosaic tile are only a few of the dramatic features found in this awe-inspiring home. 321SummitAvenue.com
47 Seacape, Muir Beach • $1,700,000 Large coastal contemporary with SF/ocean/beyond views, garage and lawn, on almost an acre! 47Seacape.com
Muir Beach • $995,000 One level, cozy coastal getaway with SF and ocean views, awaiting repair/personal touches, on a lovely “knoll”! By appointment only.
Resort Living at Home
Kent Woodlands . Beautifully sited on a large (1.26 acres) and exceptionally private, gated parcel, this property offers all the amenities to make life at home pure pleasure. Spacious and gorgeous, this fi ve bedroom, two bath home has been recently renovated by the current owners to the highest standards. Living room and dining room both feature cathedral ceilings, gleaming hardwood floors, fireplaces, and new doors and windows that create a graceful connection to the pool and patio area. Family room is open to island kitchen and eating area and features yet another fireplace and walls of windows that bring the woodlands in. Huge pool, hot tub and stunning deck and patio enjoy complete privacy and sweeping valley views.
www.90UplandRoad.com
Offered at $2,325,000
Tammy Wilks Kornfeld
Providing Skilled, Discreet and Diligent Representation
415.279.9362
t.kornfeld@deckerbullocksir.com
Ross. Gorgeous gated estate on nearly one acre designed by Hans Glass. Stately 3-level home, 5,400 sq. ft., 6 bedrooms, 6.5 baths with hardwood floors, designer kitchen, formal dining, wood panel library with fireplace, wine cellar, and gorgeous Georgian style terraces. The perfect house for entertaining this landscaped property has a level lawn, luxurious child’s playhouse gracefully enclosed by Les Pierres stone walls. $5,500,000
Kim Airey
415.342.8281
k.airey@deckerbullocksir.com
Tiburon. Gorgeous new construction Mediterranean style property completed in 2009. Spacious and well-designed home, 5,500 square feet. 5 bedrooms, 4.5 baths with 2 fireplaces, hardwood floors, chef’s kitchen, cathedral ceilings and large floor-to-ceiling windows that frame classic Tiburon Golden Gate Bridge views from living room to kitchen. Wrap-around terrace with outdoor fireplace. Offered for Sale and Lease. $3,495,000
Tiburon. This completely remodeled 4,400 square foot 5 bedroom, 4 bath home offers panoramic Bay views from well-designed light filled rooms. Its soaring ceilings, exquisite details, and custom finishes give it a European and sophisticated flavor. The flowing layout of this one of a kind home is ideal for entertaining as well as relaxing on its many sunny decks. Price Upon Request
Viviane Gulick
415.847.8216
v.gulick@deckerbullocksir.com
[CIRCA 1922]
MT. TAM WINTER WONDER
The largest snowfall ever recorded in Marin occurred during the winter of 1922
BY JIM WOOD
GABRIEL MOULIN, a premier California photographer, took the above photo on February 2, 1922, with an eight-by-ten field camera using an eight-by-ten negative. According to Tom Moulin, his grandson, the photo was shot from the area east of Camino Alto known as Enchanted Knolls. The road on the right is East Blithedale Avenue leading into Mill Valley at the foot of Mount Tamalpais, which had just been blanketed with the heaviest snowfall ever recorded in Marin. In 1873, Mill Valley developer John Cushing had named the primary road leading into town Blithedale, to honor Nathaniel Hawthorne, his classmate at Bowdoin College and the author of Blithedale Romance. West (or left) along East Blithedale, the buildings begin at what is now Locust Avenue. Also existing in and around Mill Valley in 1922 were Tamalpais High School (opened in 1908); the “World’s Crookedest Railroad” (opened in 1898; closed in 1930); the Mountain Play (at the time, in its 10th season); and Northwestern Pacific’s interurban electric railroad system (last operated in 1941). Prints of the above photo, starting at $50, are available from Moulin Photo Studios, 415.454.9468. An enlargement can be viewed in the History Room of the Mill Valley Public Library.