Marin Magazine March 2006 by 270 Media

MARI N E X T R A O R D I N A R Y

MARCH 2006

L I V I N G

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The fresh catch of the day remains as such. Yellowtail, pan-fried in olive oil and fresh herbs.

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the fabric event

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adler

P H O T O : C O U R T E S Y O F J O N AT H A N A D L E R

Jonathan Adler takes the spotlight during The Fabric Event! Save 10% off our regular prices on all fabric sofas, chairs, benches, and ottomans during the month of March! The Jonathan Adler line is exclusively ours in the Bay Area, shown only in our San Francisco and San Rafael showrooms.

Inquire at any of our Bay Area stores for more information.

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Available at Gene Hiller

CONTENTS

Features 80 fashion

Spring Fashion—Here Comes the Sun

Spring casual and beach attire on location at Stinson Beach editor samantha schoech photos debra mcclinton

Spring Ornamentals An exquisite collection of spring accessories from local retailers editor samantha schoech photos sasha gulish

92 green

Muir Woods—Splendor in Our Backyard

Discover the magic of these Giant Sequoias and how this special place can

PH OTO: D EBRA MC C LINTON

have a positive effect on your life. story eve pell photos barbara ries

98 people

Sim Van der Ryn

Visit the home of Marin’s “godfather of green” architecture. story p.j. bremier photos barbara ries

104 journey

Santorini in the Greek Isles

Explore the dream island known as the Mediterranean crown jewel. story & photos ben davidson

MARIN MARCH 2006

CONTENTS

Departments 40

letters

at-a-glance

marin album

snap

fashion

Readers respond to Marin Magazine.

Hot tips day by day in the Bay Area

Capturing a slice of life in Marin by tim porter

Out and about, in and around Marin by mimi towle & michal lev-ram

Spring Forward:Trends of the coming season by samantha schoech Life Style Sausalito’s Brian Bacino shares ideas on personal style.

fyi City Streets Exploring Clement Street by mimi towle Performing Arts San Anselmo’s Ali Akbar Khan by michal lev-ram People Stephen Joseph transforms trans fats in Tiburon. by joanne furio Books A Year in the World with Frances Mayes by samantha schoech Health Visit three local gyms by tim porter Home How Sweat It Is: saunas for the home by mimi towle

MARIN MARCH 2006

wine country

play

Life beyond wine and food in Napa and Sonoma by katherine martin

Early Morning Calling: Marin County Rowing Association by maura thurman

129 CONTENTS

110

Departments 72

looking back

110

galleries

113

calendar

121

flavor

129

microclimate

138

dialogue

Glen Ellen: Sonoma County’s best-kept secret by jim and nikki wood

San Quentin: one of Marin’s oldest institutions by jim wood

Classic style and cutting-edge contemporary by anne crump ray

A roundup of performing arts, events, galleries, and more

Experience two Marin wine bars. by rachel & david michael cane

West Marin’s Point Reyes Station by jim wood photos tim porter

Legendary ecologist Stewart Brand by samantha schoech

Columns The Cover Local artist Tjasa Owen displays the

view from mount tam

pov

rambling

124

family

The creators of Marin Magazine welcome you to share their vision.

Marin County’s day labor issue by jim wood

colors of spring in her painting titled Passage. Her work can be seen at tjasaowen.com. Prints are available

Hike the trails of Marin with the expert. by barry spitz

through artbrokersinc.com.

MARIN MARCH 2006

Appreciative parenting is a positive approach. by dr. denver coleman

Decidedly feminine, unmistakably Tank

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The new Tankissime watch

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STYLE • NEW DESIGN • INTIMATE • CAPTIVATING • PANORAMIC VIEWS • UNPARALLELED

Editorial editorial director Nikki Wood ext 105 nwood@marinmagazine.com

executive editor Jim Wood ext 106 jwood@marinmagazine.com

associate editors Mimi Towle ext 101 mtowle@marinmagazine.com Samantha Schoech ext 116 sams@marinmagazine.com

editor-at-large Tim Porter tim@timporter.com

There are hundreds of hotels around the bay, but only one directly on it.

editorial assistant Michal Lev-Ram editorial@marinmagazine.com

copy editor/proofreader Cynthia Rubin

editorial contributors P.J. Bremier, Rachel & David Michael Cane, Denver Coleman, Ph.D., Ben Davidson, Joanne Furio, Katherine Martin, Anne Crump Ray, Barry Spitz, Maura Thurman

Art art director Trpti Todd ext 112 ttodd@marinmagazine.com

production artist Alex French ext 111 production@marinmagazine.com

production artist Marc Moore ext 111 production@marinmagazine.com

contributing photographers Ben Davidson, Sasha Gulish, Debra McClinton, Sheri Montgomery, Tim Porter, Barbara Ries

30 El Portal Sausalito, California 94965 Ph: 415.332.9535 Fax 415.332.6714 www.innabovetide.com

Marin Magazine One Harbor Dr, Ste 208 Sausalito, CA 94965 phone: 415.332.4800 fax: 415.332.3048 email: editorial@marinmagazine.com web address: www.marinmagazine.com

MARIN MARCH 2006

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Starting Fresh. Starting Spring publisher Lisa Shanower 415.332.4800 ext 107 lshanower@marinmagazine.com

Advertising advertising director Courtney Q. Roberts 415.332.4800 ext 108 croberts@marinmagazine.com

account manager Lisa Wolford 415.332.4800 ext 110 lwolford@marinmagazine.com

account executive Genevieve Luckel 415.332.4800 ext 109 gluckel@marinmagazine.com

regional sales offices california media marin associates Lora Dinga 415.898.6400

hawaii media matters Kay Hampton 808.395.0088

midwest/detroit murphy media group

Your Favorite Designers Under One Roof...

Daniel P. Murphy/David Tapia 312.857.1200

Velvet, Alice & Olivia, True Religion, Joe’s Jeans,

advertising production artist Alex French ext 111 production@marinmagazine.com

Theory, Hudson Jeans, Rebecca Taylor, G1, Trina Turk, Calypso, Splendid, Vince, Generra,

Administration controller

and so much more...

Jill Harmston ext 104 jharmston@marinmagazine.com Volume 2, Issue 3. Marin Magazine is published in Marin County by Marin Magazine LLC. All rights reserved. Copyright©2006. Reproduction of Marin Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Marin Magazine LLC. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed monthly to homes and businesses in Marin County. Subscription rates are $36 per year. Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Sausalito, CA 94965. Phone 415.332.4800, fax 415.332.3048, email editorial@marinmagazine.com, website www. marinmagazine.com.

green apples

MARIN MARCH 2006

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I believe the forest knows more than I do. I believe in trusting my instincts. I believe that knowledge sets me free.

R E A L

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V I E W F R O M M O U N T TA M

THIS MONTH’S COVER ART IS VERY NOSTALGIC for all of us on our staff. It was mid2004 when we created a Marin Magazine prototype to present our vision to advertisers and others in the community. The cover image for that prototype is the same as this month’s cover—a wonderful painting by local artist Tjasa Owen. At the time we felt it was unfortunate that so few would see it—several hundred people as compared to over 100,000 readers with every issue of Marin today. It seems appropriate that we bring it back for a “real” Marin Magazine cover as an acknowledgment of our past year in business and as a colorful image to herald the onset of spring. With spring comes an awareness of health and ﬁtness—a continuing theme in this issue. Editor-at-large Tim Porter takes us on a tour of three Marin gyms on page 56; contributor Joanne Furio introduces us to Tiburon’s trans fat transformer Stephen Joseph on page 49, and associate editor Mimi Towle explains the merits of home saunas on page 60. Spring is also the time when local boutiques display fresh new looks in their windows. Photographer Debra McClinton captures the coming season in a ten-page photo essay shot at Stinson Beach on page 80, and associate editor Samantha Schoech previews spring fashion trends on page 40. Also in this issue, contributor Eve Pell shares the story of the magic of Muir Woods on page 92, and we meet the “godfather of green” architecture Sim As always, our wish is for your good reading. Enjoy Marin Magazine as we continue to celebrate this extraordinary place! Lisa Shanower, Publisher Nikki Wood, Editorial Director Jim Wood, Executive Editor 22

MARIN MARCH 2006

PHOTO: BARBARA RIES

Van der Ryn, at his home in Inverness, interviewed by contributor P.J. Bremier on page 98.

Announcing the Re-Opening of Mason’s from Italy • A Common Thread Anett Rőstel from Berlin • Burning Torch Catherine Malandrino from Paris • James Perse Ivan Grundahl from Denmark • Vince • Stitch’s Jeans …and many more. 514 San Anselmo Ave., San Anselmo, 415.485.0104

LE TTE RS 1/3 VERTICAL

KATINA HUSTON Bicycle Shadow Drawings

Readers Respond

In my experience, the population is ex-

Thank you so much for mentioning that people

tremely wary of us and tolerates us only when

should shop locally to support flood victims in

they know that we will leave within a short pe-

our time of recovery. As a volunteer for the San

riod. Building bridges to these societies would

Anselmo Flood Recovery I have seen firsthand

be a very long and complex undertaking at

how devastating this flood has been for many

best. The Bush administration has totally ig-

business owners. Particularly hard hit was Eden

nored this aspect from day one.

Day Spa on San Anselmo Avenue. Even though

I believe we reached the limit of our effec-

they have suffered great losses they will be re-

tiveness in Iraq long ago. Our only choice now

opened as of February 4 and need the support

is the obvious one: Turn over the fate of the

of the entire Marin community!

country to those in the country. We can offer

Thank you,

continued, though withdrawn, military sup-

Linda Morrell, flood recovery volunteer

port. This is what we will be obliged to do in any case. Our prolonged presence there ac-

ADVERTISER

What a beautiful publication. Good layout, ex-

complishes nothing. Congressman Murtha’s

cellent photography, and articles about fash-

proposal makes a great deal of sense to me.

ion, health spas, surfing, local biography, and

Lawrence Haines, via email

the Marin Community Foundation! Who could ask for more?

Keep it up! You’re capturing the essence of the

We didn’t, but we get it anyway. Why do

Marin that I know and love! I can’t wait to

you want to get started with the national poli-

get my copy of Marin each month. Thanks for

tics? We are constantly bombarded with opin-

putting together the perfect magazine for this

ions about Iraq, hurricanes, abortion, and gay

place in this time.

cowboys. It would be a real treat to pick up

Josie Brown

Marin and not see a rehash of what we hear and see in the IJ, Pacific Sun, and CNN, 24/7.

Congratulations on the first anniversary of

I understand that editors need to editorial-

Marin Magazine; it’s stylish, provocative, and

ize. Your take on local issues would be greatly appreciated because you could provide a

I was taken by Jim Wood’s “The Downside

unique prospective. This is just my opinion.

of an Up Market” (Dec., 2005). It spoke for

Thanks for listening.

many who serve the community and the chal-

Richard Gallagher, via email

Pile of Rims

ink on mylar

60” x 36”

She has piled up shadows cast by bicycles to create pictorial structures that wink with recognizable details but ﬁnally force the eye to surrender to their sheer graphic brilliance. Kenneth Baker SF Chronicle

819 Bridgeway | Sausalito CA 94965 www.edithcaldwell.com | 415.331.5003

lenges they face in affording to live here. It’s rewarding to see a publication that recognizes

Thank you for your piece in Marin Magazine.

a solid community is also a socially and eco-

I agree with Congressman Murtha. I lived and

nomically diverse one.

worked in the Middle East for several months

Many thanks,

some years ago for a U.S.–based company

Tom Wilson, co-executive

(Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Dubai). The cultural

director, Canal Alliance

differences are enormous. I concluded that our ability to influence inherited cultural patterns

Letters to the editor may be edited for clarity

is extremely limited. Westerners are only effec-

and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine, One

tive in dealing with those who can reap an im-

Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965,

mediate personal gain from the contact.

or email to jwood@marinmagazine.com.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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inspiring. Well done!

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POV

Day Laborers: Marin’s Challenge BY JIM WOOD

As for the day laborer’s side of the equa-

to explain than to bring to fruition, yet accord-

tion, Wilson says workers are demeaned in

ing to the UCLA–University of Illinois study, 63

the hiring process and often treated poorly

day laborer job centers exist nationwide. Most

once they’re hired. “Workers are vulnerable

are collaborative efforts of local government and

and can easily be taken advantage of,” he

community organizations whose primary goal is

adds. He cites cases of unsafe working condi-

to get day laborers into a centralized and shel-

tions, below-minimum wages, and, sometimes,

tered location where bathrooms are available.

employers not even paying at all after a day’s—

“They also ensure wage fairness, establish work-

or a week’s—worth of work.

er qualification, and even provide health and

Of course, the presence of day laborers on

literacy education opportunities,” says Marin

city streets is not unique to Marin. A recent

County Supervisor Steve Kinsey. “A job center

pioneering survey by urban planners from

brings order to the process,” he adds.

UCLA and the University of Illinois estimated

Day laborer job centers are complex and

that on any given day 117,600 men gather at

costly to set up and to run (according to the

more than 500 spontaneous hiring sites across

Day Labor Research Institute in Lewiston,

ESIDENTS OF MARIN COUNTY are

the United States. Three fourths of them are

Idaho, estimates start at $100,000 a year) and

always quick to tout the area’s posi-

undocumented immigrants from Mexico and

require input from many interest groups—em-

tives, but we must also recognize our

Central America. About half of those finding

ployers, government and community service

challenges, one of which is the clustering of

work are hired by contractors needing addi-

groups, and most important, the day laborers

scores of day laborers who line the streets

tional manpower and half by homeowners

themselves. Nonetheless, California cities such

daily near San Rafael’s Bellam Boulevard

wanting help with domestic chores like clean-

as Glendale, El Monte, and Concord have suc-

hoping for work. It’s a disheartening, Third

ing the garage, moving bulky furniture, or mi-

cessful day laborer job centers, and there is no

World–like scene.

nor repairs.

reason Marin can’t do the same.

Tom Wilson, codirector of Canal Alliance,

The survey found that two thirds of the

To ignore the existing civic blight is to let

an organization that helps poor working fam-

job-seekers have families they help support,

hope wither and impair the personal growth

ilies improve their lives, says these current

more than half regularly attend church, and

and advancement of well-meaning fellow hu-

slapdash hiring procedures humiliate those

more than a quarter participate in a soccer

man beings. More than one million undocu-

looking for work, as well as the people who

team, school organization, or neighborhood

mented immigrants enter the United States

are attempting to hire them. “It’s not digni-

center. “The day laborer is not as disconnect-

every year. After that perilous journey, probably

fied for anyone,” he says. “Homeowners look-

ed from society as people may think,” says Nik

fewer than 100 end up on Bellam Boulevard.

ing for a laborer to paint a fence or uproot a

Theodore, a University of Illinois professor and

And from all accounts, including personal ex-

tree have to deal with scores of men, all eager

an author of the study.

perience, day laborers are earnest, hardwork-

for work, the minute their car slows down. It’s

Wilson, of the Canal Alliance, thinks the an-

overwhelming and confusing; I’m sure they are

swer to Marin’s day laborer issue is the creation

That’s my point of view; what’s yours?

intimidated in that situation.”

of a “job center.” This is an entity much easier

Email jwood@marinmagazine.com.

ing, and not looking for a handout in any way.

PHOTO: BARBARA RIES

Bellam Boulevard scene is disheartening

MARIN MARCH 2006

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Patrick London Director of Wealth Management Services Bank of Marin

He’ll look after your assets like a good neighbor would look out for you. Meet Patrick London. He’s been a part of the local community his entire life. So what does that mean to you? It means you get more than just a wealth management consultant. You get a neighbor who’ll take time to learn about your financial goals and then help you find unique ways to achieve them. Sound refreshing? For more information, call Patrick at our Wealth Management Services Department at (415) 927-8900. For more information visit www.bankofmarin.com

Not FDIC insured. May lose value. No bank guarantee.

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AT A G LAN C E

M ARCH MARCH 2 Local Songstress

MARCH 3–4 Indian Dance

113 days until the first day of summer. Time to start hiking, biking, and working out to get in shape for fun in the sun at Stinson.

Come down to the Larkspur Café Theatre to hear Mill Valley singer Devon Shane perform with her band (Larkspur). 415.924.6107, larkspurcafetheatre.com

Head over the bridge for a night of classical Indian moves and music by the all-female company Nrityagram Dance Ensemble at Yerba Buena Center for the Arts (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org ▼

MARCH 10 Laugh Out Loud

MARCH 14 Art in Marin

MARCH 16 Hope & Opportunity

Join Mark Pitta and other stand-up stars from the San Francisco Comedy Competition for a night of laughs. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

An exhibit of works on paper by Sam Francis—the late artist known for his colorful abstracts—starts today at Robert Green Fine Arts (Mill Valley). 415.381.8776, rgfinearts.com

Raise the roof and funds for Ambassadors of Hope & Opportunity, a Marin-based non profit serving homeless and at-risk youths (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

▼

MARCH 1 Shape Up

MARCH 8 Tapping Machines Discover the rhythm and stamina of the Tap Dogs, a traveling dance troupe from Australia. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

MARCH 18 Raise Funds

MARCH 20 Spring Ahead

Don’t forget to wear green, drink beer, and kiss someone Irish—it’s St. Patrick’s Day today!

San Anselmo Merchants Association is hosting a fundraiser at Saint Anselm Church, bring your wallet, and community spirit (San Anselmo). 415.987.3301

No, it’s not daylight saving time yet, but it is the first day of spring, otherwise known as the vernal equinox. Day and night will be of equal duration today. ▼

MARCH 27 Elvis Costello

MARCH 29 Solar Eclipse

MARCH 30 Benefit Concert

The Grammy-winning rock legend makes his Davies Symphony Hall debut (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.com

Watch a live webcast of the total solar eclipse over Turkey. Bring your sleeping bags and make a night of it at the Exploratorium (SF). 415.563.7337, exploratorium.edu/eclipse

Enjoy live music and help support Bread and Roses, an organization dedicated to providing free entertainment to those in need. Herbst Theatre (SF). 415.392.4400, breadandroses.org

▼ 28

▼

EVE NT S IN MA R IN & B EYO N D

▼

MARCH 17 St. Patrick’s Day

MARIN MARCH 2006

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Andy Kristen Direct: 415-342-5118 Email: andy.kristen@ncmc.com

Andrew Grossman Direct: 415-342-9995 Email: andrew.grossman@ncmc.com

“The A Team” Simplify the Process • Experience • Integrity • Efficiency

M A R I N ALBUM

A Mighty Task

BY TIM PORTER

“AT LAST THE MIGHTY TASK IS DONE; Resplendent in the western sun/The Bridge looms mountain high; Its titan piers grip ocean ﬂoor, Its great steel arms link shore with shore, Its towers pierce the sky.” Fortunately, Joseph Strauss, the chief engineer behind the Golden Gate Bridge, had more talent with steel and cable than he did with meter and rhyme. Strauss wrote the above words—the first stanza of his poetic ode to the span, The Mighty Task is Done—when the bridge was completed in 1937. What they lack in literary quality, they overly compensate for in sentimentality. The bridge is utilitarian, of course. More than 100,000 vehicles make the 1.7 mile crossing daily, about 40 million a year. But carrying trafﬁc from Marin to the city southward and back again is the bridge’s day job, something it does to keep itself freshly wrapped in orange vermilion paint.

a backdrop for ﬁlm or photographs, it draws the attention of 9 million visitors a year. On a recent afternoon, the bridge posed with Olga and Yuri Smirnov of Moscow as they recorded a moment in the Marin Headlands. Resplendent in the western sun, indeed. 30

MARIN MARCH 2006

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

In its soul (which can be found hovering near midspan), the bridge is an artist and a romantic. Eager to inspire, to stir the heart or to simply stand silently in its towering regality as

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S N A P COMMUNI T Y

Back in Business

Aftermath Brings Community Together What started as a cozy winter storm the night before the New Year turned into a life-changing event for many in Marin. On an eerily sunny December 31, homeowners could be seen tossing muddy couches, beds and mementos into bins as business owners stood knee deep in mud, speechless. Take Danielle Bourhis, who had just opened her new shop, Brown Eyed Girl, in Ross Common. “I had no idea there was even a problem with flooding here,” she explained, sifting through thousands of dollar’s worth of damaged goods. “I didn’t even know there was a creek behind the building.” She is devastated, but hopes to stay in business. Unfortunately, her neighbor, Dennis Kemp of Kemp’s Sam the Butcher, has decided to close after serving locals their flank steak and fresh seafood for over 60 years. San Anselmo Avenue was undoubtedly the hardest hit. Community support has been gratifying. Immediately after the flood, Flash Photo donated signs announcing reopening dates, Latham & Watkins donated legal help, and numerous people spearheaded by Chamber of Commerce president Connie Rodgers, donated their time, cleaning skills, and good spirits. “There was a massive outpouring of help.” says Rodgers. “It came from the heart. Everyone just wants to see San Anselmo back fresher and better than ever.” Officials are hesitant to make claims regarding exactly which businesses will not be back. Marin Magazine interviewed many in the hardest-hit communities of San Anselmo, Fairfax, and Ross and found most are either open now or planning to reopen in the near future. Even Sausalito businesses felt the effects of the storm. Antonio Ruggieri of Rustico Ristorante on Caledonia Street reported major flood damage because of an extended power outage that affected his building’s sump pump. Ruggieri is not alone: Many merchants throughout Marin can use our support to stay in business. Now is the time to shop, eat, and drink locally.

TOP L EF T PH OTO: BEN COLTE AUX O F POSTAL SE RVI CES P LUS

San Anselmo Avenue, December 31, 2005 at 6:45 a.m.

HEY WERE THE MAGICIANS OF THEIR

time. Daniel Burnham of Chicago, whose skyscrapers lifted architecture into once-impossible realms. César Ritz, whose hotels embodied the opulence of the Golden Age. They meet at last, as the 1890 Chronicle Building in the center of San Francisco, at the intersection of Market and Kearny Streets, becomes The Ritz-Carlton Club® and Residences, San Francisco. Only 52 luxurious Whole Ownership Residences and 49 Deeded Fractional Ownership Club residences will

Developer’s conceptual rendering. Estimated date of completion is November 2007

occupy the $90 million restoration, a rare example of Burnham & Root architecture west of the Mississippi. When it was new, the building towered above the rest of San Francisco. When it reopens, it will elevate urban living to soul-stirring heights. Make no little plans. Forty-nine Club residences are available for Deeded Fractional Ownership from $175,000 1. Fifty-two extraordinary Residences from $1.2 million1. To add your name to our VIP list of interested parties, telephone 415.247.1140 or toll-free 888.425.5585.

- Architect Daniel Bur nham, 1846 - 1912

WHOLE OWNERSHIP

NOW ACCEPTING R E S E RVA T I O N S

DEEDED FRACTIONAL OWNERSHIP

690 Market Street, San Francisco, California 1

Prices subject to change. A fact sheet on facilities, including association assessments is available upon request. R-SF-06-005

S N A P HAPPENINGS

Wild Nights

Donald Humphreys, Brian Swift, George Hisert

Jennifer Ford, Geri Gilbert, Doug McConnell, Kathy Taft

Animal lovers and partygoers enjoyed the Sixth Annual Nature Lovers Ball last month at the Presidio Officers’ Club in San Francisco. Doug McConnell of Bay Area Backroads emceed the evening which included the Terwilliger Environmental Award given to Leora Feeney, from Friends of the Alameda Wildlife Refuge. A barn owl named Wookie and great horned owl named Obe One, shared the stage with Mussopo the opossum and a bat named Tara Zuardo,

Leora Feeney, Elizabeth Murdock

Echo, giving guests their money’s worth of entertainment. Major sponsors included Bank of Marin, PG&E, and Autodesk. Proceeds from this event will go to fund wildcare educational programs, which reach more than 40,000 Bay Area schoolchildren and adults every year, as well as their Living with Wildlife hotline 415.456.7283: a 24-hour service that offers help with basic creature identiﬁcation questions and deals with distressed wildlife. Marty Grifﬁn

Susan and Richard Rahl

Suzanne Swift, Leticia Fish

Susan and Keith Dotto

Lisa Dyson and John Gamblin

Karen Wilson 34

Lynn Allen, Craig McCurdy

MARIN MARCH 2006

Alison Magruder

PHOTO CREDIT: SHERI MONTGOMERY

Felipe Santiago

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535 San Anselmo Avenue, San Anselmo, CA 94960 Open Daily • 415.453.8200

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1/24/06 4:16:12 PM

S N A P HAPPENINGS

Out & About Shaken, not Stirred Marin Symphony patrons and audience newcomers alike enjoyed a new twist to preconcert fun last month as Skyy Vodka martinis were poured via a giant ice luge. Guests mingled in the Marin Veterans Memorial Auditorium’s green room prior to the Timpani Concerto with Marin Symphony’s principal timpanist, Tyler Mack, William Kraft

Suzanne Noe, Wendell Wilson

Jessica Ganz, Cathe Anderson, Brenda Gates-Monasck

Andrew and Jill Carothers

Julie Seydlitz, Ginger Kuhns

Jennifer Barnes, Hope Timberlake

Tyler Mack, and Los Angeles–based, contemporary composer William Kraft.

Carlo Silvio, Scott Shankland

City Nights Ballet enthusiasts from around the bay, including Marin, came out to celebrate the 73rd opening night of the San Francisco Ballet. Prior to the performance, the San Francisco Ballet Auxiliary hosted its annual Opening Night Gala: Reflections; which celebrated the multi-faceted meanings and dimensions

Maureen Herr, Michelle Cheathan, Sandra Barrett

Kate Zimmer, Tracy Tuens-Way

of the ballets feaRepertory Season. Guests dined on delicious food from over a dozen fabulous restaurants and sipped fine wines courtesy of La

Wally and Eve Gazzola Wertsch

Crema Winery. Mary Jo and Dick Kovacevich

Judy Thelander, JC Simbana, Mary Arnold Lyman

PHOTO CREDIT: SHERI MONTGOMERY

tured in the 2006

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S N A P BUSINESS

Fashion, Food, and Art Bling Fling

Fresh Canvas

Following extensive renovations, Simayof Diamond Cutters and

Marin fashionistas

Jewelers recently hosted a grand reopening party at its flag-

turned out to help-

ship store on Union Square. Approximately 250 guests turned

Kendra Appelbaum

out for the event,

celebrate her new-

which featured

est Canvas location at

hors d’oeuvres and

444 Magnolia Street

champagne and

in downtown Larkspur.

the opportunity to

Proceeds from the eve-

browse the sea-

ning went to support-

son’s new, must-

Marin Cancer Project.

Niran Amir, Annette Harris, Don Canady

have sparklers.

Suzi Leggett, Dr. Tran Tuan Anh

Michelle Parker, Meredith Miles-Smith

Pigs & Pinot

Spin Art

Nationally acclaimed chef Charlie Palmer hosted his ﬁrst annual

Art-minded Marin res-

Pigs & Pinot event at Hotel Healdsburg along with two copart-

idents gathered at

ners in the hotel, Merritt Sher of Ross and Tiburon’s Paolo Petrone.

Michael LeValley’s Spin

Featuring whole suckling roasted pig from Devils Gulch Ranch and

Gallery on Mark Drive in

prime cuts of pork from Niman Ranch, Palmer created a sumptu-

San Rafael to celebrate

ous feast that was paired with locally grown pinot noirs.

the kickoff of Jeannie

Leslie Blodgett

Pettigrew’s exhibition White Work, an installation of art and objects.

Top row: Merritt Sher, Charlie Palmer, Paolo Petrone, Lisa Palmer Bottom row: Theresa Petrone, Pamela Sher

MARIN MARCH 2006

Michael LeValley Sarah McArthur-LeValley

Jeannie Pettigrew

Suzie Buchholz

BLI NG FLING : BENGTSON PHOTOG RA PHY / HOTEL H EA LDSBURG: SO L NOOR

Agnes Briones, Adi Simayof

Kendra Appelbaum, Leo Sosa

Luxury Retirement Living

SPRING FORWARD Our picks for the season’s freshest looks EDITED BY SAMANTHA SCHOECH

Enjoy Being a Girl There were plenty of military looks and lots of black on the runways this spring but what seemed especially fresh were the ultra-feminine looks in a palette of soft pinks. It’s sort of a Georgia peach, debutante, Mrs. Cleaver thing—without the cloying nostalgia. Simply lovely.

Sequined dress and patent loafers by Burberry, $6870 and $635 at Burberry (San Francisco) 415.392.2200. Helena dress by Temperley, $1275 at Neiman Marcus (San Francisco) 415.362.3900. Dress by Milly, $375 at Saks Fifth Avenue (San Francisco) 415.986.4300. Josielyn clutch by Leslie Newton, $170 at www. leslienewton.com.

Jersey Girl It’s soft. It’s comfortable. It’s easy. Jersey dresses for spring are the closest you can come to feeling like you’re wearing sweats while looking like a million bucks. No wonder it’s all over the place.

Dress by Kenneth Cole, $198 at Kenneth Cole (San Francisco) 415.981.2653. Navy Fluid Jersey Sleeveless Dress with Front Tucks by DKNY, $195 at Macy’s (Corte Madera) 415.927.3333.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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SPRING FORWARD Our picks for the season’s freshest looks EDITED BY SAMANTHA SCHOECH

Sequined dress and patent loafers by Burberry, $6870 and $635 at Burberry (San Francisco) 415.392.2200. Helena dress by Temperley, $1275 at Neiman Marcus (San Francisco) 415.362.3900. Dress by Milly, $375 at Saks Fifth Avenue (San Francisco) 415.986.4758. Josielyn clutch by Leslie Newton, $170 at www. leslienewton.com.

Dress by Kenneth Cole, $198 at Kenneth Cole (San Francisco) 415.981.2653. Navy Fluid Jersey Sleeveless Dress with Front Tucks by DKNY, $195 at Macy’s (Corte Madera) 415.927.3333.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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1/31/06 11:46:35 AM

FASHION

Black & White It’s a timeless combination but if you’re not careful it can get a little drab. Luckily this season’s designs do the work for you with bold patterns and sophisticated lines.

Orchid embroidered dress by Derek Lam, $1,990 at Neiman Marcus. Geometric dress by Milly, $280 at Neiman Marcus. Dress by Gucci, $1455 at Gucci (San Francisco) 415.392.2808.

Global Fashion Some of the best designs for Spring take their cue from traditional fabrics, patterns, and embellishments from around the world: sari prints, Eastern European embroidery, and Latin color all add a little ﬂair.

Paradise crochet dress by Temperley, $2,045 at Neiman Marcus. Anguilla dress by Hollywould, $1750 at Saks Fifth Avenue. Black ric rac clutch and heel by Hollywould, $395 and $465 at www.ilovehollywould.com. Silk faille halter gown by Bill Blass, $8,250 at Neiman Marcus.

MARIN MARCH 2006

FA S H I O N

life style Name Brian Bacino Home Sausalito Occupation Creative Director, Foote Cone & Belding, SF What are you wearing? The suede jacket is from Barney’s New York. Dockers shirt, Levi’s Vintage Red jeans, Adidas 1977 Vintage Half Shell shoes, and socks by John Varvatos. The watch is HEB Milano and the glasses are by Matsuda. Where would you wear this outfit? I’d wear this to work, cocktails, or dinner. If it were a particularly nice dinner, I’d probably switch out the sneakers for shoes. How long does it take you to get ready in the morning? Five minutes. It takes me a good half hour to wake up in the shower, but getting dressed is quick. Describe your personal style. I refuse to be uncomfortable. I think my style has some growing up to do, but that’s what keeps it fun. And of course it has to come together in five minutes. Who are your fashion influences? I never chase trends. If I find something I like I’ll wear it for years. I read all the fashion magazines but I don’t really follow their advice. I remember when Details proclaimed that Converse Chuck Taylors were officially dead for adult men. I’ve been wearing them for 25 years, well before they were “in” and I’m not going to stop now because somebody else says they’re over. Favorite designers? John Varvatos, Ted Baker, Janet Howard, Levi’s. Where do you love to shop in Marin? I do not love to shop. But I like what you can get at Wilkes Bashford, and Ted Baker’s new store. 42

MARIN MARCH 2006

What is always in your bag? I carry a 30-pound leather bag that holds my digital camera, iPod, cell phone, address book, passport, checkbook, my notebooks, and a half a dozen odds and ends. If I didn’t keep it all together, I’d forget stuff all the time. I think I’d clean up if they still made Let’s Make a Deal.

DELEUSE JEWELERS

What is the single most essential piece in your wardrobe? I’d have to say my vintage Levi’s. I can dress them up with a nice shirt and a coat or just go with a T-shirt or sweater. There’s something amazing about authentic jeans. They were created for hard work in the 1800s but they remain youthful and sexy today and they never try too hard. They are timeless. What would you never be caught dead in? Something that was impossibly hot that didn’t fit me. I find it hilarious when guys wear things that they read were in style that just do not work for them. Especially guys who aren’t model thin trying to fit into clothes that were made for Fashion Week.

Janet Deleuse, Designer Jeff Deleuse, Graduate Gemologist 415-435-2484

What do you splurge on? Jeans and sneakers. And if I can ﬁnd shoes that I love, which hasn’t really happened for a decade.

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1/25/06 2:25:38 PM

What is your best cheapo secret? Gap underwear rocks. Are you an impulse shopper or do you need time to deliberate? I am rarely in the mood to shop, so if I do, I try to buy a couple years’ worth of stuff. With that approach you have to go timeless. I’m a big fan of the Barney’s Warehouse sale in New York. It’s funny to watch New Yorkers drop their pants in public just to get a deal. What’s your fashion pet peeve? Trying too hard. What’s the most expensive thing you’ve ever bought? I bought an Armani suit for a few thousand dollars. Did it make you happy? Not really. Store-bought style is so easy to replicate. There’s nothing creative or personal about it. But my wife thinks I look hot in it, so there’s that.

Tommy Bahama Home Furnishings 32 Main St. Tiburon, CA • 415-435-4752

MARIN MARCH 2006 TommyBahama_0306_FNL.indd 1

43 1/25/06 2:30:33 PM

F Y I CIT Y STREETS

Clement Allez-vous? Spotlight: Clement Street from Arguello to Park Presidio BY MIMI TOWLE PHOTOS TIM PORTER

rench finery on Clement Street, a.k.a. the “New Chinatown”? Pourquoi pas? Long before the prolific signs of Asian culture, this bustling shopping district was a European and Irish outpost.

Just after World War I, Russian, German, and French immigrants set up shop along this histori-

cally affordable street named after Roswell Percival Clement. Originally from New York, Clement was a lawyer for the San Francisco Gas Light Company and is credited with suggesting that Golden Gate Park extend west all the way to the ocean. “Inner Clement Street has everything anyone would need, except a taqueria,” says Pete Mulvihill, co-owner of Green Apple books, a 40-year-old bookstore with a cult-like following. “If the Richmond [District] was a city, this would definitely be its thriving downtown.” There is, he adds, “a notable ‘cute-ification’ happening toward Arguello, spilling over from Laurel Village, but what’s great is these new boutiques are all

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independent businesses, which is the key to

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Clement’s success.” Perhaps this old-world, non-mass-market appeal is what attracted these new businesses. “I love it here,” says a smiling Diane Valranges, of Peche Mignon, purveyor of regional French products like Limoges porcelain, ceramics from Provence, and creams and soaps from Marseille, adding, like a true Frenchwoman, “I carry the best from these regions, products you can’t find anywhere else in the Bay Area.” Valranges was happy to open her business near her countrymen and women: Jean et Marie Boutique de Bebe is across the street, and April in Paris, a former Hermès bag designer’s leather shop specializing in custom-made shoes, belts, and handbags, is one block east, as is Fleur’t, a high-end florist with French notions and potions. “It’s a great shopping district; I really enjoy the camaraderie of the nearby shopkeepers,” says April in Paris owner Beatrice Amblard. Among her favorite experiences here is not French, but certainly luxurious: Tucked away in the Holistic Health Center, Dana Leslie Organics offers therapeutic facials and massages, using the Hungarian product line Eminence in every treatment. One can’t discuss French products without mentioning food. Besides the street’s dizzying array of Asian eateries, restaurants like Chapeau have attracted loyal Francophiles for years; fabulous French cuisine is also served at Bistro Clement and the chichi Clementine. In such a setting the popular Vietnamese Le Soleil, with its French name, fits right in. Alors, next time you’re in an adventurous mode, check out this eclectic main drag just minutes from the bridge. It’s the only place in the Bay Area where you can dine on delicious pho and spring rolls, find a signed copy of Armistaud Maupin’s Tales of the City (he’s a Green Apple fan), and shop for $2 noodle bowls or a $200 porcelain place setting, all without moving your car.

HIGHLIGHTS RESTAURANTS This street is famous for its amazing array of cuisines, from over a dozen types of authentic Asian to casual cafes. Hundreds have come and gone. The following have been good enough to last: Giorgio’s has been serving delicious pizzas and Italian food for over 30 years. 3rd Ave. and Clement, 415.668.1266, giorgiospizza.com Burma Superstar Restaurant Start off with the rainbow salad and you won’t be disappointed. 309 Clement, 415.387.2147 Haigs Deli has been serving up delicious hummus, dolmas, and tabbouleh for nearly 50 years; they distribute their goods throughout the Bay Area, 642 Clement, 415.752.6283

SWEETS Toy Boat Dessert Café has been making people smile for more than 20 years. They serve a tasty breakfast and lunch,

1102 Magnolia Ave • Larkspur • 415.925.0109 www.item-shoes.com • Mon. - Sat. 10:30 -5:30

but the dessert is what makes this place famous—oh, and the great display of kitschy collectible toys. 401 Clement, 415.751.7505, toyboatcafe.com

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1/25/06 1:57:34 PM

Schubert’s Baker y Serving princ e s s c a k e s a n d m o u t h wa t e r i n g mousse for 40-plus years. 521 Clement, 415.742.1580

SHOPPING While there is a tide of haute couture coming in, Clement is still know for bargain shopping: pungent herbs, colorful produce, and housewares all on the cheap. Kamei Household Wares One of the best bargains in the Bay Area, from mixing bowls to tea sets; half the fun is just browsing the aisles. 547 Clement, 415.933.8508 Satin Moon Fabrics Gorgeous fabrics, priced from $10 to $150 a yard, line the walls of this well-known boutique. 32 Clement, 415.668.1623 Chung Chou City If you need any type of Chinese herb, this is your spot. 324 Clement, 415.666.3688

Invitations, Fine Stationery & Gifts 1118 Magnolia Avenue • Larkspur • 415.461.0120

MARIN MARCH 2006 Folio_0306_FNL.indd 1

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F Y I PERFORMING ARTS

Ali Akbar College of Music BY MICHAL LEV-RAM

NDIA MAY BE a long way from Marin

Indian classical music and to perform Indian

“I was just a teen playing Jimi Hendrix back

County, but the distance is no obstacle

music on television, sowing the seeds for the

then, until I found this,” he recalls. “[Khan]

for students at the Ali Akbar College

music’s popularity in the ’60s. Now 83, he still

makes up new compositions all the time, so

of Music (AACM) in San Rafael. They

tours and teaches four classes a week.

it’s always fresh. It’s an old tradition, but he

gather here, thousands of miles from

“It’s so rare to have the opportunity to be

the origins of Indian music, to study vocals

able to study with a maestro like Khan here in

Classical Indian music is passed down from

and traditional instruments like tabla and sa-

this country,” says David Yovino, the school’s

generation to generation primarily by oral prac-

rod, under the tutelage of one of the best-

operations manager and a student of vocals

tice (Khan’s family traces its gharana, or ances-

known masters of classical Indian composition,

and sarod himself.

tral tradition, to Mian Tansen, a 16th-century

who just happens to live in San Anselmo—Ali Akbar Khan.

makes it new and creative at the same time.”

About 200 students attend the AACM. Two

musical prodigy and court musician), and more

master teachers (Khan and Swapan Chaudhuri,

often than not, it stays within the family and even retains distinct regional differences.

Originally from East Bengal (modern-day

director of percussion) and about 10 assistant in-

Bangladesh), Khan founded the AACM back

structors teach the classes, which are organized

in 1967 in Berkeley, then a year later moved

in four eight-week series a year. Beginners are

it to Marin. His musical career started much

always welcome, Yovino says. “We have four-

“I think it has something to do with the

earlier: At the tender age of three, Khan began

year-olds studying tabla and 65-year-olds play-

peaceful surroundings here,” Yovino says. “You

studying music with his father and uncle; he

ing sarod, from all over the Bay Area,” he adds.

can’t study this music in the middle of traffic

So how did such a recognized center of classical Indian music end up in Marin?

gave his first public performance in Allahabad,

Bruce Hamm, who came to AACM in 1974

India, at 13. In 1955, Khan came to the United

and has stayed ever since—he studies and

To experience Indian music, check out the

States and performed at the Museum of

teaches there and also runs the on-site store—

AACM’s winter concert series, Saturdays through

Modern Art in New York. He later became the

says there were many aspects of Khan’s music

April 8 in San Rafael. For information, call the

first artist to make a Western LP recording of

and teaching style that drew him to the school.

school at 415.454.6264, or log on to aacm.org.

MARIN MARCH 2006

and noise. Marin’s got the right ambience.”

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F Y I P EOP L E

Trans Fat Transformer Tiburon’s Stephen Joseph convinces the town to be a leader in the battle against trans fats BY JOANNE FURIO PHOTO BARBARA RIES

IN THE SNACK FOODS AISLE of Bell Market in Tiburon, Stephen Joseph is revealing the skinny on trans fats. He picks up a box of Kraft Wheat Thins, proudly emblazoned with the phrase “0 g Trans Fat.” “Wheat Thins,” he chuckles. “These were actually one of the worst.” Since products containing a half a gram of trans fats or less are legally allowed to be marketed as trans fat free, Joseph reads the ingredients to make sure the claim is not misleading. Turns out the new Wheat Thins really do live up to the claim. “When you look around this supermarket you are going to see that Kraft has done more than anyone else,” Joseph says. “I wonder why?” Why, indeed, as Joseph himself might say in his melodic, Manchester-English cadence. Kraft has, in fact, been a trailblazer in the food industry, converting most (73 percent, as of October 2005) of its trans-fat-filled foods to trans fat free. And Joseph is credited with urging it to do

MARIN MARCH 2006

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so. No ordinary supermarket shopper, Joseph, c

founder of BanTransFats.com, is an attorney

who has been dubbed a “trans fat crusader” by

ing

Time magazine. In 2003 Joseph brought suit against the mighty Kraft to stop it from mar-

school students. Joseph withdrew his case a few days later, but the publicity it generated

h n

ced Li fe

The attention from the case helped nudge the U.S. Food and Drug Administration into adopting new nutritional labeling now required (as of January of this year) to include trans fats.

lan

tion of national and international proportions.

signaled the beginning of a trans fat revolu-

meets mod

keting its trans-fat-filled Oreos to elementary ER

Kraft, in turn, has eliminated or substantially

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products—in fact, a trans fat-free Oreo is expected to hit the shelves soon. Despite his success, Joseph continues his crusade. He has taken on McDonald’s, forcing the fast-food giant to publicize the fact that it hadn’t changed the trans-fatty oil it uses, after

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FERTILITY FAMILY

it had promised to switch to an oil with less

1/25/06 2:10:46 PM

trans fat by February 2003. And in Tiburon, where he lives, Joseph and a local like-minded contingent have convinced chefs at the town’s 18 restaurants to switch to trans-fat-free cooking oil, creating America’s “first Trans Fat–Free City.” Tiburon restaurants now display a Green Heart in their windows along with the promise

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“We Use Trans Fat–Free Cooking Oil!” “The hard part wasn’t getting people to change,” says Joseph. “You just switched from one box of oil to another. The problem was that very few people knew what trans fats were.” Also known as “partially hydrogenated vegetable oils,” trans fats were created in the laboratory as a cheap alternative to other varieties of oils, both healthy and not so healthy. Trans fats make it possible for commercially baked products—from fresh-baked supermarket muffins to packaged pretzels, margarines, and spreads—to last for weeks or even months. What makes trans fats so hazardous is that, with a molecular structure that mimics saturat-

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MARIN MARCH 2006 11/28/05 10:30:08 AM

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The origins of Joseph’s very public interest in banning trans fats are, in fact, highly personal. He believes trans fats helped kill his stepfather, who consumed margarine containing trans fats on a regular basis. After his stepfather’s death in 2001, Joseph’s mother in England began protesting and ended up taking her complaints to her member of Parliament, urging that trans fat labeling be required. For her efforts, she received two letters from Britain’s Department of Health, promising change. “She was so thrilled with those letters,” says Joseph, “but nothing was going to change as a result of them. It was going to take something more.” Shortly after, Joseph filed his suit against Kraft. Joseph is often thrust into the spotlight, yet he is quick to credit others in Tiburon’s trailblazing role. In addition to his wife, Simone, he was aided by Ellen Davenport, cofounder of the California Rice Oil Company, a Novatobased firm. “We are both passionate about educating people about the dangers of trans-fats both in restaurants and in packaged foods,” says Davenport. “I had the oil, and he had the knowledge.” Because of their efforts, all of the Tiburon restaurants have chosen to use rice oil, a trans-fat-free alternative, in all of their cooking. The chefs like using rice oil because it tastes good and—since it is 100 percent natural, contains no GMOs or preservatives, and is a kosher-certified product—appears to be a

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viable replacement for the hydrogenated oils used with fried food. Canadian and Korean television reporters have visited Tiburon and presented programs about trans-fats on national TV, Joseph reports. And, following Tiburon’s lead, this summer New York City became the first major metropolis to ask restaurants to voluntarily remove trans-fat-derived oils from their dishes.

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“Just think,” Joseph says, almost incredulously, “the lessons of little Tiburon have very much been passed on to the city of New York.”

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FYI BOOKS

La Dolce Vita In her new travel book, Frances Mayes leaves Italy to discover what it means to be a citizen of the world BY SAMANTHA SCHOECH

hen talking about the joys of travel writing Frances Mayes quotes a Chinese poet: “To make an image is to be alive twice.” First you have the experience; then you re-create it, filtering it through your imagination, trying to somehow make it new and fresh for the reader. And that is the challenge.

“In any travel writing you ask yourself, ‘What can I say that is going to be new?’” Mayes says. Then she answers her own question. “It’s the writing that does it.” If anyone knows the secret to making a familiar journey seem fresh it is Mayes, best-selling author of Under the Tuscan Sun and Bella Tuscany. She put Cortona, Italy on the map with her tale of restoring Bramasole, her crumbling Tuscan villa, and fascinated millions of readers worldwide (Under the Tuscan Sun has been translated into 22 languages). Now Mayes has expanded her geographical radius with her new book, A Year in the World, a collection of connected travel essays. For A Year in the World, Mayes, who spent 25 years at San Francisco State’s Creative Writing

PHOTO: ED MAYES

Department (the last eight as chair of the department), quit her post in 2000 and took off to see the world: 12 places in 12 months, with the idea of trying to feel at home in each one. “When you rent a house [in a new country] your relationship with a place develops immediately. You walk down the hill in the morning to buy your greens. You meet people. It’s much different than staying in hotels and eating out all the time.” During this process Mayes, who seems to live a truly

MARIN MARCH 2006

blessed life, spent time in Fez, Capri, Andalucia, Burgundy, the Greek islands, Turkey, Scotland, Portugal, and other European locations. And even though she writes about what she calls “the quotidian,” the everyday stuff of life, the experience of living in each place changes her dramatically. “My whole sense of the world was enlarged by discovering how distinctive each place was,” she recalls in an interview with Marin. “I discovered we don’t just live in one big global economy. Each place was so different. I loved that; it was one of the great pleasures of this experience.” For such an intrepid traveler, Mayes is also quite a homebody, creating a sense of settled contentment wherever she is. At Bramasole she loves to garden. Her favorite days are the simplest—a walk into town for coffee in the piazza, a home-cooked meal with friends, a little writing, a little tending to her roses.

LOCAL TYPE

New books by Marin authors After by Jane Hirshﬁeld (HarperCollins, $24) Mill Valley poet Jane Hirshfield is one of the preeminent American poets of her generation. Her previous five collections have earned her numerous fellowships and scores of loyal readers. The quiet, thoughtful poems collected in After investigate the intangibles that color our everyday lives: envy, judgment, tears, opinion, and language itself.

Es Cuba by Lea Aschkenas (Seal Press, $16) Aschkenas spent 10 months in Cuba shortly after the 2000 Elian Gonzalez custody battle. Es Cuba is a poignant and passionate travel memoir about falling in love with a country and one of its compatriots: an honest look at the complex mix of emotions—devotion and rejection, enrapture and apprehension—that she develops toward the country.

The Booster by Jennifer Solow (Atria Books, $24) Mill Valley novelist and former advertising writer Jennifer Solow brings us Jillian Siegel, a hotshot advertising exec who, after being fired from the infamous Bomb agency, finds herself in a dangerous international shoplifting ring.

MARIN MARCH 2006

And then there are the fans who continue to drop by, something she says she doesn’t mind at all. “I can tell when the book comes out in Estonia or Hungary because all of a sudden we have Estonian or Hungarian tourists coming by the house,” she confides. But it’s the Italians who knock on the door. “They are the most sociable people in the world and they just assume you want to talk,” she says, laughing. In December, after 32 years of calling the Bay Area home base, Mayes moved with her husband, Ed, to North Carolina. “We were spending more and more time in Italy, six or seven months a year, and keeping our house in Marin County began to feel like we were keeping the Titanic afloat. Plus,” she adds, “North Carolina is three hours closer to Italy.” And despite her wanderlust and her soft Georgia accent, Italy is where she feels most at home.

BOOKSELLERS RECOMMEND

Favorite children’s books: The Miraculous Journey of Edward Tulane by Kate DiCamillo (Candlewick Press, $19) “Edward Tulane is a larger-thanlife-size china rabbit, richly dressed by the child who loves him dearly. After he is lost at sea, a series of adventures gradually teach

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him about love and loss. Young children will enjoy his journey, and adults will appreciate his elegantly told tale of transformation.” —SUSAN KUNHARDT, BOOK PASSAGE

Llama, Llama Red Pajama by Anna Dewdney (Penguin Group, $16) “After his mother tucks him in and leaves the room, Baby Llama has a hard time falling asleep. This is a comforting bedtime picture book—it doesn’t have much text but is full of large, boldly colored images. It’s a sweet book for putting little ones to bed.” —WOODY LEARY, 1ST STREET BOOKS

215 Second Street Sausalito, CA Bed, Bed, Bed by They Might Be Giants (Simon & Schuster, $17) “When I was little They Might Be Giants’ music and lyrics got

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me through many long nights. This book and CD package, a collection of stories and songs by the band, ﬂawlessly proves my theory that they know something about kids and bedtime that the average person does not know.” —EMILY KATZ, GREEN APPLE BOOKS

“Coming together is a beginning. Staying together is progress. Working together is success.” - Henry Ford MARIN MARCH 2006

F Y I HE A LT H

Pumping Iron, Marin Style Fairfax Gym, Bay Club Marin, Gold’s Gym

Here are the basic membership plans for the three facilities. Each has additional payment options. Fairfax Gym 713 Center Blvd., Fairfax, 415.459.9000. Membership: $100 enrollment, $39 a month Bay Club Marin Town Center Mall, Corte Madera, 415.945.3000. Membership: Individual, $700 enrollment, $115 a month; Family, $1,200 enrollment, $190 a month Gold’s Gym 10 Fifer Ave., Corte Madera, 415.924.4653. Membership: $29 to $59 a month, depending on enrollment fee and prepayment

HERE ARE ALMOST AS MANY WAYS to keep in shape as

there are muscles in the body (about 700, by the way). You can spin, step, pose like a warrior, or strap your tendons into a Pilates rig. But forget all that. Those things happen in a “studio.” This story is about lifting—picking

up the iron and putting it back down long enough and often enough to make those muscles cry for mercy. For that you need a gym. In the old days, back when Charles Atlas promised to give 100pound weaklings muscle enough to whomp the bejeezus out of bulkedup beach bullies, gyms looked like scrap metal yards—piles of iron and stacks of bars. Modern gyms have “amenities” that would have made the iron-heads of yore cringe—massage tables, therapy balls, dance floors, child care—but have clearly upped the appeal for women, baby boomers, and teens. Still, the weight room is the heart and soul of any serious fitness club. Marin has dozens of places to work out, from the few-frills to the totally luxe. Three facilities provide a snapshot of the choices: Fairfax Gym, Bay Club Marin, and Gold’s Gym.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF BAY CLUB MARIN

FIT FACTS

BY TIM PORTER

MARIN MARCH 2006

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Fairfax Gym— Where Past Meets Present “We’re one of the last of the Mohicans,” says Clark Marckwordt, owner of the Fairfax Gym. Marckwordt is atop a ladder in the men’s locker room, his hands dusty white from sawing Sheetrock, installing a new fan. Fairfax Gym is located in a nondescript building several blocks from downtown. Marckwordt went to

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work there 27 years ago. He bought the place six years later. “I was a janitor,” he says with a laugh as he forces an air duct into the ceiling, “and I still am.”

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Well, yes, but in the interim he’s earned a master’s degree in fitness from Sonoma State and built a good business. Fairfax

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Gym has 1,000 members, most from Fairfax, San Anselmo, and the San Geronimo Valley. About 200 show up each day.

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The gym’s original clientele were hard-

core bodybuilders. Marckwordt, a former competitive power lifter, was the second member. His brother was the first. “The previous owner didn’t want to sell out to a B&B02_0306_FNL.indd 1

1/25/06 2:04:49 PM

Nautilus guy. I’m an iron guy,” he says.

The heavy iron heritage lives on at Fairfax Gym. Relatively small at 5,600 square feet, the weight room is crammed with metal: rows of dumbbells along one mirrored wall, towers of BodyMaster machines everywhere.

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The dominant color is gray. Treadmills and other cardio gear face the front. Above a bank of TV sets is a poster: “Clark’s Pumpatorium.” Near the entrance, a bright aerobics area, dotted with green and blue exercise balls, seems like a colorful clearing carved from a forest of dull metal. PHOTO: COURTESY OF BAY CLUB MARIN

The sounds of Fairfax Gym reflect its past and its present: an aerobics instructor’s urgings (“three more!”), the ageless clank of metal striking metal, a steady beat of ’70s and ’80s rock (“this is a rap-free zone,” Marckwordt says). Outside, the sign over the door says Fairfax Health Club. But, says Marckwordt,

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“call it what it is—it is a gym.”

MARIN MARCH 2006

Bay Club Marin—the Non-Gym Gym One word describes Bay Club Marin: plush. The entrance doors are Herculean. The lobby is cool and softly lit. Members pad by in thick bathrobes and soft slippers en route to the spa. A coffee area. Comfy reading chairs. Laundry service. CNBC on the massive flat screen in the wood-paneled locker room. And more and more and more. A full-size basketball court. Squash courts. Lap pool. Yoga rooms. Pilates studio. But, you ask, is there a gym? Yes and no. There is a room—a 10,000square foot room—that is loaded with weights and the best cardio machines money can buy (individual TV screens) and looks like a gym, but at Bay Club Marin it is a “fitness area.” “We’re not a gym,” says Jim Gerber, director of memPhoto on page 56: Club member gets a tip from Bay Club training staff. Photo above: Gold’s Gym weights. Middle photo: Client lifts weights at Fairfax Gym. Bottom photo: Club member works out at Bay Club Marin.

ber services. “We’re a club.” Bay Club Marin, a North Bay replication of the venerable Bay Club in San Francisco and part of a group of highend fitness facilities operated by Western Athletic Clubs, opened three years ago to fill an unmet need—a place where affluent Marinites could stay fit and socialize in an atmosphere more akin to the Four Seasons than the Y. The club has 3,500 members. About 1,000 visit the facility daily, most in the morning, when women fill the dance, yoga, and fitness studios and take advantage of the 30-or-so daily classes that come free with monthly membership. Bay Club Marin is not for the price conscious. Membership fees are at least three times those of clubs like Fairfax Gym or Gold’s Gym, and additional pay-to-play training, Pilates, and yoga sessions can push the monthly bill much higher. The atmosphere is seductive, though, and beneath the veneer of gentility, serious sweating is going on. The gym—uh, fitness area—has more than enough equipment to exhaust all but the most extreme weight lifter (no dumbbells of more than 110 pounds). The room is carpeted and quiet. Music (’80s classics during the day, Top 40 in the evening) is kept low and the sounds of quiet conversation are more prevalent than the

“Marin needed a high-end club,” says Gerber. “We try to be as high end as we can.”

Gold’s Gym— The Classic with a Marin Twist Unlike at Bay Club Marin, there’s nothing subtle about Gold’s Gym. Located in a former ice rink just off Highway 101 in Corte Madera,

TOP T WO PHOTOS: TI M P ORTER

repetitive thunks of weight stacks rising and falling.

“

The previous owner didn’t want to sell out to a Nautilus guy. I’m an iron guy.

”

— CLARK MARCKWORDT

Gold’s butter-yellow paint job screams for attention. Inside, a four-foot red, yellow, and blue neon depiction of Gold’s trademark iron man logo greets all who enter. Gold’s offers plenty of classes—more than 40 a week—in an enclosed aerobics studio and has dozens of cardio machines, but the gym is front and center. Weight machines and free weights fill most of the club’s 13,000 square feet. Three sets of dumbbells line the walls (160 pounds max). An Olympic lifting platform occupies a prominent section of the floor. It’s used for power lifting by everyone from students at nearby Redwood High to TV muscleman Jon Anderson (“World’s Strongest Man”). The club prides itself on the quality of its equipment, its cleanliness, and its friendly informality, says general manager Letty Hernandez. “You don’t need to match your

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The daily ebb and flow of Gold’s 3,000 members mirrors Marin’s population. Early morning it’s prework professionals; mid-

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morning, mothers and other women (a common pattern at health clubs); early afternoon, stockbrokers; late afternoon, tradesmen (many speaking Spanish); and early evening, homebound commuters. The average Gold’s member is 42, and plenty of gray hair can been seen (the club’s oldest member is 95, says Hernandez), but the club has a younger environment: Two largerthan-life projection TVs show music videos and sports all day; five 42-inch plasma screens hang over the cardio area dishing out news,

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All this entertainment, along with the lights and the cardio equipment, is powered by one

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of solar collectors on the roof.

MARIN MARCH 2006

F Y I HOM E

How Sweat It Is Steam showers and saunas are not just for the health club BY MIMI TOWLE

erbal colonics begone—sweat is the new wellness cure-all. Well, not exactly new: As far back as 400 B.C., Hippocrates is said to

have relied on induced fever and sweating to cure disease. Today, the virtues of this ancient modality are in vogue via steam showers and saunas that are credited with a wide variety of health benefits, from detox to weight loss.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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Prefer to steam? The road to pore-cleansing steam comes in many forms—from a

Sarah Evers Hoffman, a Marin-based interior

cocoonlike tent to a walk-in bathhouse.

designer who helps her clients design both

Amber Marie Bently of Stinson Beach bought

steam showers and saunas. “Life is busy, and I

steam room units for each massage room of

think people want to have easy access to things

Kamalaspa, her day spa on San Francisco’s

that make their life more enjoyable. When cli-

Union Square. “In India, steams are used in

ents are remodeling their master bath, they’re

treatments for reducing pain, eliminating tox-

usually open to making it a special retreat.”

ins, and clarifying the skin,” she says. “They

Andy Kaps of San Anselmo–based Sauna

are especially good after an abhyanga, or

Works agrees. “We have not only noticed more

Ayurvedic oil massage, so the body can ab-

home installments, but we have been putting

sorb the essential oils more easily.”

our saunas into hotel rooms as well.” Why?

Custom steam showers can run the gam-

According to Kaps, “starting at $3,795, they are

ut, Hoffman says; her latest project is “eight

affordable and they are easy to set up. It basi-

feet long and five feet wide with a beautiful

cally takes two people about an hour to install;

bench of marble, two full rain showers, and

the units come prewired and ready to go.” He

a lovely mosaic floor and walls. Who would

sells a new type of sauna called far infared,

want to go to a gym with that at home?” she

which uses an invisible light ray (the same

asks with a smile.

non-UV heat lamp used to keep infants warm

Sure, steaming and saunas are relaxing,

in hospitals) that emits radiant heat; he says

but do they really stand up to these claims?

this method is more efficient than any other

“I can’t attest to permanent weight loss or

type of sauna for detoxing and relaxation. As

cellulite reduction,” says Dr. Elson Haas, San

an added plus, Kaps says, far infared heat ther-

Rafael–based author of The New Detox Diet

apy can even help with weight control, since

and other books on health and nutrition. “But

perspiration increases heart rate, cardiac out-

heating up the body does promote sweat, re-

put, and metabolic rate; a 25-minute session is

sulting in detoxification, as well as stimulation

equal to the exertion of a six-mile run.

of the immune system.” Since household wa-

PHOTOGRAPHY: BARTONE

“More and more people are putting either steam showers or saunas in their homes,” says

ter often contains not-so-optimal additives like

EVERYONE SWEATS

chlorine, he suggests adding a water filter to

The health benefits of sweat have

any steam shower.

been lauded for centuries in every

Perhaps Kaps’s business partner, Dr. Raleigh

corner of the planet. Back in ancient

Duncan, sums up the experience best. “Having

Athens, Hippocrates declared, “Give

one of these saunas,” he says, “is like having

me the power to create a fever and I shall cure every illness.” In Finland,

an urban nomadic sweat lodge with everything except your own council of village elders.”

there’s a saying: “If the sauna can’t cure it as a last resort, nothing can!” The Russians have steamed in their banias for centuries, while the Turks enjoy the harara (steam room) during their Islamic hamman (ritualistic bath). Pick a continent and there is a practice revolving around the curative benefits of heat. Even our own: As a Lakota elder has said, “The sweat lodge utilizes all powers of the universe: earth, and things that grow from the earth; water; fire; and air.”

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W INE COU NTRY

SPRING INTO ACTION Time to get back in shape for Wine Country events BY KATHERINE MARTIN PHOTO BEN DAVIDSON

PRING . . . THE CLOUDS LIFT, the buds break, and even the most active among us

looks into the mirror and says, “Dear God, who is that person?” Months of hibernation with the comfort of warm fires, sultry cabernets, and bottomless dishes of crème brûlée

give way to outdoor endeavors, often inspiring us to wonder how we managed to get through four to five months without breaking a serious sweat. Ready to make nice again with the idea of wellness? Wine Country residents are experts at the idea of cold-weather indulgence and spring repentance, so head up north for all manner of restorative fun.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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I suggest starting with a refresher course

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on how to cook those green, healthy things that grow in the garden—yes, it is just like riding a bike: vegetables. Ramekins in Sonoma is offering an entry-level stir-fry cooking class on March 1 (707.933.0450; ramekins.com) that promises to help you make the transition from lavish to light with little pain. The school is popular for its friendly, no-pressure approach to cooking, and these are actually recipes that you will attempt again at home, so take the leap and turn your back on the cassoulet. Also on the menu: a cooking course in the Spanish small plates called tapas at Calistoga’s CasaLana B & B on March 15 (877.968.2665; casa-

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lana.com). There’s a reason Spaniards stay

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canapé de atún. And hanging out at the quiet

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skinny—I suspect it’s equal parts tango and

CasaLana is like vacationing in Spain or south-

March is also the month of the Crab and Fennel Festival (707.545.4200; rrvw.org) in • a local yarn store in Mill Valley •

Santa Rosa, where seafood devotees convene to crack Dungeness, quaff Russian River wines, and sample culinary creations made with fennel. California cooking is all about pairing organic herbs with fresh, flavorful foods, so the March 4 festival is a great way to once again embrace mindful menus. While you’re at it, think about hitting some of the fantastic farmers’ markets that are ramping up again at this time: St. Helena, Sonoma, Healdsburg, Sebastopol. Beets, broccoli, spinach—the usual early-spring suspects will be here and ready for your atoned table. If you’re eager to cut to the chase and burn the calories fast, consider the 28th Annual Napa Valley Marathon (707.255.2609; napavalleymarathon.org), a 26-mile paved route from Calistoga to Napa, on March 5. Buzzing through the rolling hills, sprouting vineyards, and oak copses of Napa Valley will help distract you from recounting every blasted piece of gorgonzola pizza you inhaled during the rainy months, and it’s a spirited way to jump-start a spring wellness regimen. Though March is still a tad tempestuous for serious outdoor plans, you can also get active by hitting the bocce courts at wineries

MARIN MARCH 2006

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like Landmark in Sonoma (707.833.0053; landmarkwine.com), Brutocao in Hopland (707.744.2020; brutocao.com), and Pedroncelli in Geyserville (707.857.3531; pedroncelli.com). It’s a relatively relaxing way to burn calories and it’s one of the few sports that can be mastered with a glass of wine in hand. For more vigorous pursuits, hit the dewy trails and watch the green grasses grow at Jack London State Park (800.777.0369; parks. ca.gov) or Bothe–Napa Valley State Park (707.942.4575; parks.ca.gov). Both offer quintessential Wine Country views and trails that vary from easy to feel-the-burn tough. With all this movement going on you must not neglect one of nature’s most (in moderation) healthful elixirs: wine. March is barrel tasting time in wine country, and several mustnot-be-missed events are happening throughout the month. Barrel tasting is an intriguing experience—you’ll get a sense of many great wines to come and will learn about the barrel aging process from enthusiastic experts.

55 Throckmorton Ave • Mill Valley Phone 415-380-0880 Hours: 11:00 AM to 5:30 PM Tuesday-Sunday

The Russian River Road Barrel Tasting event from March 3 to 5 (800.723.6336; wineroad.com) is the most extensive barrel event in Wine Country. A hundred participating wineries will offer tastings and, in most cases, sell futures. Don’t be surprised to be sharing a wine thief (the instrument used to siphon tastes from the barrel) with the winemaker him- or herself—this is these folks’ chance to mix business with pleasure, and many truly enjoy this part of the winemaking process. Other barreltasting events worth hitting: Sonoma Valley’s Heart of Sonoma Valley on March 18 and 19 (866.794.9463; heartofsonomavalley.com) and Napa’s Mustard Season Silverado Pass event on March 11 and 12 (866.844.9463; silveradotrail.com). Also on March 18 and 19, don’t miss The Marketplace at COPIA in downtown Napa as part of the 13th Annual Mustard Festival (mustardfestival.org)—a mustard appreciation happening that will tantalize your taste buds. The world is reawakening and you’re ready to hit the budding ground running. Wine Country is a great place to revive yourself and once again put a spring in your step.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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RA M BLING

Hike: Sky Oaks Road. Distance: Seven miles, three can be driven. Terrain: Rolling; 40% shaded. Sights: Three lakes, Mt. Tam, MMWD ﬁltration plant, wildlife, wildﬂowers. To Trailhead: Take Bolinas Road 1.5 miles from downtown Fairfax. Left at big MMWD sign onto Sky Oaks Road.

Sky Oaks Gateway to Mount Tam’s North Side BY BARRY SPITZ ky Oaks Road accesses the pristine, light-

Leave Sky Oaks Road and follow the

ly visited, north side of Mount Tam;

MMWD pavement for 100 yards; then cut

some of the Bay Area’s best hiking. Three

right at the first intersection, which is Filter

lakes—Lagunitas, Bon Tempe, and Alpine—are

Plant Road. Before long you’ll pass the filtra-

within a stone’s throw. Sky Oaks is Marin’s last

tion facility for all of southern Marin’s drink-

toll road so be prepared to pay a fee and have

ing water. Veer left around the tank and Filter

the option of driving three miles of this seven-

Plant Road is now unpaved as it drops to

mile-long outing. Annual toll passes are now

Eldridge Grade.

available for $50 ($25 for seniors).

Climb Eldridge Grade—built by John

Once past the toll gate, start by heading up

Eldridge in 1884 as a wagon road to the sum-

the pavement. Whether by foot or car, you’ll

mit of Mount Tam. Here you’ll gain 350 feet

likely have the road to yourself. The first junc-

elevation in less than a mile and a half. But

tion on your right is a remnant of the 1870

the long views and quiet woodlands keep your

Bolinas-Fairfax wagon road; drivers use it now

mind off the work. Stay in climbing mode until

to reach Bon Tempe Dam and Alpine Lake. To

you reach the Lakeview Fire Road; at 980 feet,

the left is Shaver Grade Road, which leads to a

this will be the highest elevation point of the

fourth water district reservoir, Phoenix Lake.

loop. Follow Lakeview down to Lake Lagunitas

Stay on Sky Oaks Road where next is a

and its 133-year-old dam, built four decades

half-mile downhill to the edge of Bon Tempe

before creation of the MMWD. A dirt road

Lake, a favorite of local anglers. A level stretch

drops to the Lake Lagunitas parking lot, where

will cut through a meadow that’s a haven to

you’ll reunite with Sky Oaks Road. If you hiked

deer, bobcats, foxes, and the-now ubiquitous

(or ran) the entire seven miles, you have about

turkeys. After half a mile, where Sky Oaks

a mile and a half back to the ranger station.

Road makes a bend to the right, there’s a park-

Barry Spitz, in association with the Anne T.

ing area and a paved MMWD road that veers

Kent California History Room, is the author of

left. This is the start of the four-mile loop.

the soon-to-be-released Marin, A History.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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Early Morning Calling Marin County Rowing Association attracts all ages BY MAURA THURMAN PHOTOS BARBARA RIES

MARIN MARCH 2006

PL AY

hen dawn commuters start pulsing southbound on Highway 101, John McCrea turns his back on traffic and heads into the boathouse. An upstairs gym hums as athletes grind into motion on 43 rowing machines, preparing for a favorite part of their day. With the clock barely marking 6 a.m., members of the Marin Rowing

Association shift four- and eight-oar carbon-fiber shells to the water. Within minutes, they pull out from the dock, pointing down the channel that heads past San Quentin State Prison and into the bay. “It’s almost religious watching the sun come up,” says McCrea, who rows four days a week with the club’s master men’s team before heading to work as an executive recruiter. “It’s a very meditative thing, the rhythm of the rowing, like a heartbeat.” Jim Andersen, the master men’s coach, interrupts that meditation with a running commentary by megaphone from his power launch. Sunrise shades from mauve to peach as he peers at the rowers, who range from 22 to 73 years old. Their goals are speed, balance, and synchronicity as they pace up to 30 strokes per minute in a one-hour workout. “It’s a bit like ballet, but combined with rugby spirit,” Andersen says. “Our goal is doing the best rowing possible.”

MARIN MARCH 2006

“

You learn so much . . . it teaches trust, camaraderie, friendship, and a work ethic, values that eventually will be serving you throughout life. —BRECK O’NEILL On that score, Marin Rowing has succeed-

”

“No other club out there has the staff we

we do,” Andersen says. “We row as a club and

ed like few other U.S. clubs. Founded in 1968

do,” says Sandy Armstrong, executive direc-

rely on the training and camaraderie to get us

to form a crew team at Redwood High School

tor, who began rowing in 1979 and has led the

through.”

in Larkspur, the Greenbrae club now involves

club since 1990. Twelve coaches serve the var-

125 teens and 200 adult members (both

ied teams and training groups.

Rowing, the country’s oldest intercollegiate sport, dates back to a Harvard-Yale

about evenly split between men and women),

Andersen links the master teams’ success

match in 1852 and has thrived on strong tra-

with 60 percent of them involved in racing—

to teamwork, noting that other groups lean

ditions and heralded rivalries. Admitted as a

and winning.

on “Rolodex teams” composed of far-flung

National Collegiate Athletic Association sport

At the World Masters Games last summer

but pedigreed members called together for

for women in 1997, rowing has grown across

in Edmonton, Canada, the club garnered

major races. While Marin Rowing boasts a

the board in the last decade, Armstrong says.

several medals, while its junior teams of-

few decorated members, like 1960 Olympic

Many colleges recruit in Marin, and the club’s

ten reap medals at the annual U.S. Rowing

bronze medalist Dick Draeger, its core consists

“Learn to Row” days have become crowded af-

Youth Invitational National Championships

of many who came to the sport later in life.

fairs. Competition focuses on a spring sched-

in Cincinnati.

“On paper we shouldn’t be doing as well as

ule of two-kilometer sprints in places like

click and be served.

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MARIN MARCH 2006

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Sacramento, Redwood City, and San Diego,

cost $30,000 each, and parents joined other

versa. Redwood freshman Chelsea Lucas, for

with courses of up to six kilometers in the fall.

members to raise $1.3 million for a boathouse,

example, serves as coxswain for a crew that in-

completed in 2004.

cludes her grandmother.

Marin Rowing alumni have brought power to teams at the University of Washington,

Quarterly dues and monthly coaching fees

Joel Kimmel of Mill Valley started with his

Harvard, Columbia, UC Berkeley, and others.

can be up to $1,200 per year, with travel ex-

daughter several years ago and ended up in a

“You learn so much,” says Breck O’Neill, a

penses extra, leading members to work on a

winning boat at the Henley Veterans Regatta

Redwood senior. “It teaches trust, camaraderie,

scholarship plan for teenagers who cannot af-

in England. “We cheer on the juniors and they

friendship, and a work ethic, values that even-

ford the cost. “There is a little bit of a percep-

cheer us on,” he says. “It dissolves the [genera-

tually will be serving you throughout life.”

tion that rowing is an elite sport, but we’re

tional] walls.”

With youth rowing at the heart of the club,

trying to change that,” McCrea says.

Danny Freisinger, a Redwood junior who is

parent boosters form a family that serves up

Not surprisingly, given the parental in-

coxswain for the top eight-rower men’s varsity

potluck dinners before races and arrang-

volvement in Marin Rowing, the sport often

boat, agrees. “My dad loves it. I love it,” he says.

es transport for racers and equipment. Their

morphs into a family affair, with teenagers

Find out more about Marin Rowing

fundraisers help buy new boats, which can

drawing their parents onto the water and vice

Association at marinrowing.org.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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Glen Ellen Secluded corner of the Sonoma Valley Wine Country BY jim & nikki wood PHOTOS ben davidson NE OF THE BEST-KEPT BAY AREA SECRETS is

Glen Ellen in the Sonoma Valley—the essence of the Valley of the Moon experience. It’s infused with the spirit of Jack London, the feel of early California in the 1900s, and of course, good food and wine.

“Most of my life has been spent here in Sonoma Valley, Glen Ellen specifically,” says Alexa Wood, who manages her family’s Beltane Ranch B and B (pictured at right). “If there’s a prettier, more interesting place than this—or one that isn’t overrun with tourists—I’d like to know about it. I doubt one exists. I love it here.” Less than an hour north of Marin County, Sonoma Valley is often considered stepsister to nearby Napa Valley. But as any devotee will tell you, there is no inferiority complex here. Residents are proud that they have fewer tourists, sparser traffic, almost as many wineries as Napa, and a wide variety of sights and activity options. First on the list to visit is Jack London State Historic Park, located up the hill from Glen Ellen’s oak- and sycamore-shaded town center. Because this 1,500-acre park is packed with mental and physical

PLACES TO STAY BELTANE RANCH – Five rooms and a cottage on an 1892 ranch amid oaks, vineyards, and trails. Full gourmet breakfast. 11775 Sonoma Hwy. (Hwy. 12), Glen Ellen, CA 95442, 707.996.6501, beltaneranch.com. GAIGE HOUSE INN AND SPA – 23 rooms and suites, plus pool and spa. Built in and around a two-story Victorian. Full “orgasmic” breakfast. 13540 Arnold Dr., Glen Ellen, CA 95442, 707.935.0237, gaige.com JACK LONDON LODGE – 22 antique-appointed rooms situated among oaks and sycamores along the banks of Sonoma Creek; pool and in-the-ground Jacuzzi on site. 13740 Arnold Dr., Glen Ellen, CA 95442, 707.938.8510, jacklondonlodge.com KENWOOD INN AND SPA – 30 rooms and suites in neighboring Kenwood. Full dinner menu on weekends (guests only); breakfast daily. One swimming pool; three spa pools. 10400 Sonoma Hwy., Kenwood, CA 95452, 707.833.1293, kenwoodinn.com

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1/31/06 11:24:05 AM

adventures, in both real-life and vicarious formats, it’s best to block out

remains. And it’s fascinating. Best to break the spell with a hike past

most of the day for your visit. The Call of the Wild author lived there

Jack and Charmian’s personal cottage to a dam, a lake, vineyards, a

from 1905 until his death in 1916. He’s buried there. Most of his jour-

stone barn, and a “pig palace,” all constructed by London himself.

nals, photographs, films, and memorabilia are there. Definitely, his spirit

Just down the road, on the way back to Glen Ellen, is the Benziger

is there. A captivating introduction to all things Jack London is a tour of

Family Winery—probably one of the most picturesque and authentic

the House of Happy Walls, now a museum and formerly the home his

wineries in the area. It’s not as glitzy as many—and it’s a great pic-

wife, Charmian, built three years after London’s death. She lived there

nic spot where you can take in the vineyard ambience. Tours are avail-

until she passed away in 1955.

able for those wanting a true dose of viticulture; at the very least, drive

After a good visit, if you can pull yourself away, a brisk walk to

through the entry and enjoy the scene. To continue wine tasting, pass

Wolf House is recommended. This was London’s dream house until a

through Glen Ellen to Highway 12, where numerous other vineyard

disastrous fire destroyed it in 1913. Many say the writer-adventurer’s

stops include Arrowwood, Chateau St. Jean, Ledson, Kunde, Kenwood,

once-indomitable spirit never quite recovered; now; only the stonework

and St. Francis, to name a few. All have tasting rooms.

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As evening falls across the Valley of the Moon, dining experiences

sunny Palm Springs, and the fit, Nealley says, couldn’t be more perfect:

await—from pizza-to-go to gourmet. Select a close-in destination and en-

“He loves the valley—and the valley loves him.” During dinner Veregge,

joy. The list of choices may be short on quantity, but for quality, it’s as tall

exuding old world charm, frequently comes from the kitchen to circulate

as a chef’s toque. Ask any Glen Ellen innkeeper and the names you’ll hear

among the tables and inquire how his dishes are being received.

are Kenwood Restaurant and Bar, Café Citti, the Fig Café, Saffron, Jack’s

For appetizers, two Wolf House favorites are the Sonoma foie gras

Wine Bar, Wolf House Restaurant, and the Glen Ellen Inn. Kenwood

and the cambozola and mission fig tart with sweet onion relish. The ex-

Restaurant is a sophisticated, art-filled local favorite, with patio views of

tensive range of popular entrées includes the crispy local rabbit, roasted

the surrounding vineyards, especially nice on a warm summer day.

organic bay salmon, and fresh nutmeg gnocchi. And if the entrée menu

Residents and visitors also flock to the Wolf House Restaurant, an

is long, the wine list is longer. It numbers 72 choices including cham-

unpretentious, easy-to-find eatery on Arnold Drive in the heart of Glen

pagnes, every one of them from the surrounding Sonoma Valley. Which

Ellen (next to the Jack London Saloon). Owner-operator sisters Linda

is one way of saying, you are definitely in Wine Country—Sonoma Valley

Richards and Elaine Nealley lured executive chef Jay Veregge north from

specifically, the tiny town of Glen Ellen in particular.

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MARIN MARCH 2006 75 11/27/05 10:42:12 AM

LO O K I N G BAC K

San Quentin One of Marin’s oldest institutions Since 1852, the prison has seen calm and calamity

he deadliest years in San

accounts vary, this much is consistent: Three

Waban served as a floating jail. It was anchored

Quentin’s 154-year history

guards and three inmates, including Jackson,

off Point Quentin, the land mass that juts into

were 1970 and 1971. The

died that day, either by gunfire or slit throats.

San Francisco and San Pablo Bays, and housed

violence centered around

That incident added to San Quentin’s leg-

up to 60 prisoners. Not surprisingly, living con-

George Jackson, a charismatic

endary status as the state’s most notorious

ditions aboard the ship eventually became in-

Black Panther convict and author of the book

prison. Over the decades since it was built in

tolerable, and in 1852 the convicts, under tight

Soledad Brother. On August 7, 1970, Jackson’s

1852 on bayfront property off Sir Francis Drake

security, came ashore to build guard and inmate

17-year-old brother, Jonathan, took Superior

Boulevard, the facility has housed such crim-

quarters (structures still used today) on 20 acres

Court Judge Harold Haley and four others hos-

inals as Black Bart, Richard Ramirez, Caryl

of land purchased by the state for $10,000.

tage during a trial in the Marin County Civic

Chessman, Sirhan Sirhan, Charles Manson,

A year later, 250 inmates moved into a

Center of a San Quentin inmate. The younger

Scott Peterson, and the killers of Polly Klaas

two-story prison consisting of 48 cells and an

Jackson demanded the release of his brother,

and Bill Cosby’s son. The famous also enhanced

administrative “long room” that also housed

who was being held at San Quentin awaiting

the prison’s notoriety. Eleanor Roosevelt, Joan

overflow inmates. Initially called Corte Madera

trial on charges of killing a guard. In the en-

Baez, Muhammad Ali, Whoopi Goldberg, Phyllis

Prison, the facility for most of its first decade

suing shootout with police, Haley, Jonathan

Diller, Johnny Cash, Woody Allen, Bonnie

was privately run under a state contract. By

Jackson, and three accomplices died.

Raitt, and a young weight lifter named Arnold

1857, with its inmate population exceeding

A year later, on August 21, 1971, in San

Schwarzenegger have visited San Quentin. In a

500, the state assumed operations and re-

Quentin’s high-security Adjustment Center,

touch of irony, singer Merle Haggard was im-

named the jail San Quentin State Prison.

George Jackson used a smuggled pistol to force

prisoned there in the late 1950s after breaking

guards to open 30 cells. “The bloody aftermath

out of the Bakersfield County jail.

In the late 1800s, San Quentin prisoners wore striped uniforms, were flogged for violat-

can only be described as savage,” declares the

San Quentin came to be somewhat by coin-

ing rules, and spent their days using sledge-

book San Quentin, Established 1852. Although

cidence. In 1852, the 268-ton merchant vessel

hammers to pound boulders into gravel, much

MARIN MARCH 2006

P H OTO: SA N QUENTIN MU SEUM AS SO CIATI ON

BY JIM WOOD

In 1893 San Quentin prisoners wore striped uniforms, were ﬂogged for violating rules, and used sledgehammers to pound boulders into gravel, much of which was used to build Marin County roads.

MARIN MARCH 2006

of which was used to build Marin’s roads.

The massive 1,000-cell South Block, the struc-

the South Block and dining hall are still in use,

Executions were carried out by hanging. By the

ture most visible from across the bay, was com-

with some revisions.

turn of the century, when the county’s popula-

pleted in 1913. At the time, it was known as

In 1934, with the five-tier East, West, and

tion approached 16,000, San Quentin housed

the largest cell block in the world. By 1920, the

North Blocks completed, San Quentin’s popula-

close to 1,600 prisoners.

South Dining Hall opened, with the capability

tion reached an all-time high of 6,397 inmates

“San Quentin State Prison, as it appears

of serving 2,000 meals at a time, leading to San

(after 1933, female inmates went to Tehachapi

today, was constructed mostly between 1910

Quentin being called “the most modern prison

State Prison in the southern part of the state).

and 1934,” says spokesman Vernell Crittendon.

of its day,” in a national magazine article. Both

Then, as now, most inmates spent their nights

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MARIN MARCH 2006

northbay@hansonbridgett.com www.hansonbridgett.com

fers significantly. The boulder-busting is gone.

Allen, a 76-year-old who was blind, diabetic,

Inmates can attend high school and college-lev-

and used a wheelchair.

el classes. There is a library, snack shack, ten-

The California Department of Corrections

nis courts, and a baseball field. In 1985, San

intends to break ground this June on a $233

Quentin (not including its death row) was des-

million expanded, 768-cell death row at San

ignated a medium-security prison.

Quentin. Marin County supervisors and oth-

In 1937, the state of California ordered that

er local public officials have tried unsuccess-

lethal gas replace hanging as a means of ex-

fully to block the expansion in court, arguing

ecution, leading to construction at San Quentin

the money is wasted on an aging prison that

of a two-ton steel gas chamber (costing about

should be closed so the land could be used as

$5,000). For the next 30 years, executions were

a regional transit hub and ferry port.

conducted at a rate of about six or seven a year.

Closing San Quentin is hardly a new

Executions were suspended in 1967 as state

idea. Some time ago, the governor’s office

courts and Californians wrangled over the mo-

in Sacramento released this statement: “The

rality and constitutionality of the death penalty.

Governor favors closing San Quentin as it is

and much of their days paired with another

The gas chamber remained vacant for 25 years

expensive to operate—costing approximately

prisoner in a cell measuring four-foot-eight

until Robert Alton Harris, convicted of killing

$9 million a year—while the costs of repair

by nine-foot-six, or about 46 square feet. San

two teenagers, was put to death in 1992. Since

and remodeling would be prohibitive.”

Quentin’s population (not including the nearly

then 13 executions have taken place, including

That statement is dated May 5, 1972, a

650 condemned on death row) now averages

those of William Bonin, the notorious “Freeway

year after the George Jackson bloodshed at

5,500 inmates.

Killer,” Stanley Tookie Williams, the Crips street

the prison, and the governor was not Arnold

If not much has changed structurally over

gang founder convicted of murdering four peo-

Schwarzenegger but another Hollywood actor

the past 70 to 90 years, life inside the walls dif-

ple in 1979, and, most recently, Clarence Ray

turned politician, Ronald Reagan.

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FA S H I ON

HERE COMES THE SUN

EDITOR SAMANTHA SCHOECH PHOTOS DEBRA MCCLINTON STYLIST PAMELA CAMPBELL HAIR & MAKEUP BRYNN DOERING/ARTISTUNTIED.COM MODELS LILLIAN, LOGAN & DERRICK/JE MODEL

MARIN MARCH 2006

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L I FE

On Lillian: Striped top by Missoni, $495 at Canvas (Larkspur) 415.924.4505 (Mill Valley) 415.383.0520. Skirt by Louis Vuitton, $1,141 at Louis Vuitton (San Francisco) 415.391.6200. Shoes by Beverly Feldman, $210 at Item (Larkspur) 415.925.0109. Bracelet by Boucheron, $21,500 at Boucheron (San Francisco) 415.362.6020.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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On Logan: Bikini by Zoe Bikini, $98 at Gala (Larkspur) 415.924.7680 or custom at www.zoebikini.com. Knit hoodie by Tracey Reese, $206 at Green Apples (Sausalito) 415.331.8227. On Derrick: Green cashmere sweater by Ashley’s, $2295 at Gene Hiller (Sausalito) 415.332.3636. Plaid shirt by Marc Ecko, $60 at True (San Francisco) 415.626.2882. Jeans by Energie, $199 at Energie (San Francisco) 415.362.9470. Belt by J. Lindeberg, $149 at Rolo.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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MARIN MARCH 2006

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On Derrick: Blue collared shirt by Edun, $99 at Macy’s (San Francisco) 415.397.3333. Khakis by Edun, $159 at Saks Fifth Avenue (San Francisco) 415.986.4300. Watch by Tag Heuer, $1,695 at Juliana’s Fine Jewelry (Corte Madera) 415.924.9711. On Lillian: Orange tunic by Godi, $118 at Canvas. Betty bracelet, $95 at Canvas. Polka dot bikini by Zoe Bikini, $104 at Gala or at www.zoebikini.com. Hat by Adeline Collection, $495 at Mill Valley Hat Box (Mill Valley) 415.383.2757.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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On Logan: Sundress by Harkham, $224 at M Clothing (Corte Madera) 415.924.8891. Bracelet by Melissa Joy Manning, $225 at Pearl (Larkspur) 415.464.8672. Circle earrings by Patch NYC, $150 at Canvas.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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On Lillian: Butterﬂy tube top $128 at Macy’s. Goldsigned jean shorts, $185 at Canvas. Owl earrings by Patch NYC, $84 at Canvas.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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On Lillian: White jeans by Marc Jacobs, $168 at Marc Jacobs (San Francisco) 415.362.6500. Sweater by 12th St. Cynthia Vincent, $228 at Gala. On Logan: Muslin dress by Harkham, $319 at www.activeendeavors.com. Shawl by Tom K. Nguyen, $102 at Macy’s. Headband by Cynthia Vincent, $99 at Green Apples. 18k Gold Necklace by Roberto Coin, $2740 at Juliana’s Fine Jewlery On Derrick: Jeans by Anthin, $196, V-neck sweater by Calvin Klein, $125, both at Macy’s.

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On Logan: Turquoise top by Whim, $164 at Viva Diva (San Rafael) 415.256.8380. Shorts by Philip Lim, $220 at Canvas. Earrings & Necklace by Melissa Joy Manning, $90 & $250 at Pearl. Gold Shoes by Item, $105 at Item. On Derrick: Suit by J. Lindeberg, $595 at Rolo. Shirt and belt by Paul Smith, $229 and $155 at Rolo. Daytona watch by Rolex, $18,100 at Juliana’s Fine Jewelry. On Lillian: Coral dress by Nieves Lavi, $315 at Canvas. Divine Diane Sandals by Louis Vuitton, $1,350 at Louis Vuitton. Cloisonné necklace by Gara Daniels, $230 at Canvas. Hat by Eric Javits, $590 at Mill Valley Hat Box. Pink tourmaline and sapphire ring by Boucheron, $21,800 at Boucheron.

MARIN MARCH 2006

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FA S H I ON

SPRING ORNAMENTALS PHOTOS SASHA GULISH EDITOR/STYLING SAMANTHA SCHOECH

Black mother of pearl and diamond ring by David Yurman, $1,250 at Shreve & Co. (San Francisco) 415.421.2600. Opposite Page, Clockwise from upper left: 1. Box basket purse by Kate Spade, $295 at Kate Spade (San Francisco) 415.216.0880. 2. Green turquoise necklace, $680 at Wilkes Sport (Mill Valley) 415.381.5183. Turquoise ring by David Yurman, $1,300 at Shreve & Co. Pavé starﬁsh brooch, $5,700 at Tiffany & Co. (San Francisco) 415.781.7000. Gold and turquoise necklace, $1,095 at Tiffany & Co. 3. 18K gold necklace with diamonds and Tahitian pearls by Janet Deleuse, $4,200 at Deleuse Jewelers (Tiburon) 415.435.2484. 4. Polka dot market bag by Toss Designs, $42 at Folio (Larkspur) 415.461.0120. Cashmere sweater by Loro Piana, $550 at Wilkes Sport. Sunhat by Juicy Couture, $85 at Nordstrom (Corte Madera) 415.927.1690.

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SPLENDOR IN OUR BACKYARD

STORY EVE PELL PHOTOS BARBARA RIES

MARIN MARCH 2006

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GRE E N

“Children are our best crop. It is good to know that mountain and forest will be there, open and unspoiled for them, so that they may know of nature to the health of their souls.” —William Kent MARIN MARCH 2006

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FEW WINTERS AGO, I heard salmon were spawning in Redwood Creek in Muir Woods, so I picked up my grandchildren in San Francisco and brought them to see the spectacle. As we were parking, my small grandson peered warily out the car window—he is a city kid, after all—and inquired in an anxious voice, “Grammy, is there nature here?” Indeed, as my grandchildren and I saw, nature is plentiful in Muir Woods, present in splendid and manifold incarnations. From spawning salmon, spotted owls, and 600-year-old redwoods to mushrooms, banana slugs, and wood rats, this national monument has them all and more. Tourists make pilgrimages from all over the world to behold the ancient trees (the park drew more than 800,000 visitors in 2005). One recent guest, a Londoner, said while strolling among the redwoods, “I think I’m in the presence of grand old men. As soon as I walked in, I got the feeling of calmness and peace. I saw the trees with burns from old fires, showing me that we human beings can survive. If something happens, people usually give up. But if we stand firm, we can survive and be happy.” The inspirational quality of the giant trees is so powerful that in 1945 the delegates who had come to San Francisco for the founding conference of the United Nations assembled in Muir Woods in the hope that the serene beauty of the location would guide them toward world peace. Something about the woods leads people to draw metaphors from the natural world and think grand thoughts. Perhaps John Muir said it best: “The clearest way into the Universe is through a forest wilderness.” Muir Woods—more than 400 acres tucked between Mill Valley and Muir Beach—is the last place on earth where you can see a primeval redwood forest that has never been logged. It is a link to our planet’s past: Millions of years ago, dinosaurs walked among trees like these.

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1/27/06 3:40:55 PM

It is a refuge for endangered creatures: The southernmost pair of spotted owls live here, and Redwood Creek, which runs through the park, is one of the few places in the Lower 48 where coho salmon and steelhead trout still return after years in the ocean to spawn in the stream where they were hatched. Ranger Mia Monroe, a petite woman with long dark hair, the soul of a poet in a Smokey the Bear uniform, supervises Muir Woods for the National Park Service. She has worked here for nearly 25 years, and the passion she brings to her mission is infectious. Several times a week she gives talks to visitors, regaling them with fun facts about the trees, the wildlife, and the touching history of this remarkable corner

TIPS FOR MARINITES

Come early or late to avoid crowds. The park is open from 8 a.m. to sunset. Midweek is better than weekends. At twilight you may hear the night creatures waking up: foxes, owls, bats.

Follow nature’s cycle. The park offers full-moon programs and solstice celebrations. The months from November to May are the time to see salmon spawning, wildﬂowers, and the park’s famous fungus (mushroom) displays. It’s also a good time for bird-watching: winter wrens, pileated woodpeckers, spotted owls.

of the world (see “Three Men Who Made a Difference” on page 97). One of Monroe’s recent talks began with 16 tourists gathered around her on a wide section of trail near an enormous redwood. Halfway through the talk, the crowd grew to 30. By the time she was done, more than 40 people stood listening. Monroe puts on an intriguing show. “Over the years, the redwoods have whispered to me, and I will tell you some of the tips they have given,” she begins in a hushed tone. “They have told me the secrets to leading a long and happy life.” Recounting the “advice” from the trees, she slips in a botanical lecture about the redwoods and their survival in Muir Woods. For example, tip number three is, “Drink a lot of water.” She explains that each redwood consumes the equivalent of five swim-

Be a volunteer. Work in the native plant nursery, on behind-the-scenes projects pulling weeds, on the website, or as a greeter or a docent. Volunteers also monitor ﬁsh and spotted owls and take part in a pilot program evaluating the park’s natural soundscape. Budget cuts have increased reliance on volunteers.

Be forewarned. Muir Woods touches all who visit. Souls open. People begin grieving, they become introspective and start journals, they propose marriage, babies take their ﬁrst steps. Ranger Mia Monroe calls it the “village commons” effect. More details at the Muir Woods website: www.nps.gov/muwo

ming pools full of water every day, then tells how the shallow-rooted giants find the moisture they need from rain, drainage from nearby Mount Tamalpais, and fog drip. Fog drip? Redwoods thrive in foggy locations, she says, and Muir Woods is often shrouded in fog that drifts in from the Pacific. Moisture from the fog condenses on a redwood’s

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“Over the years, the redwoods have whispered to me, and I will tell you some of the tips they have given . . . They have told me the secrets to leading a long and happy life.” —Ranger Mia Monroe

grooved needles. The water flows down the tiny grooves and drips on

cycle, and park personnel cooperate with neighboring organizations to

the forest floor, where the thirsty roots can suck it up.

preserve the entire Mount Tamalpais watershed.

The National Park Service has the responsibility of protecting busi-

Muir Woods is truly otherworldly. Under the protective canopy of

nessman William Kent’s gift to the United States. Naturalist John Muir

enormous trees, cheerful sounds burble up from Redwood Creek; a

wrote to Kent in 1909 urging that the federal government be given the

wren chirps under a giant fern; pale yellow big-leaf maples along the

role of preserving the site:

stream bank seem to beam light into the shade. From the damp, cool

“Any fool can destroy trees. They cannot run away; and if they could,

forest floor, life reaches toward the sun. Fallen bay laurel tree trunks

they would still be destroyed—chased and hunted down as long as fun or

sprout vertical branches like a row of small trees. Tiny ferns spring out

a dollar could be got out of their bare hides, branching horns, or magnifi-

from the moss-covered trunks of horse chestnuts.

cent bole backbone. Through all the wonderful, eventful centuries since

Most of all, the redwoods demand our attention. A passing glance

Christ’s time—and long before that—God has cared for these trees, saved

won’t do. To appreciate the majesty of a tree, you must stop, crane your

them from drought, disease, avalanches, tempests, and floods; but He

head back, and allow your eyes to follow its trunk up and up and up un-

cannot save them from fools—only Uncle Sam can do that.”

til finally the branches melt into the sky. Visitors travel from all over the

The Park Service has fulfilled Muir’s desire, even though some of its earlier policies did more harm than good. In the 1930s, for exam-

world to have that powerful yet humbling experience. In Marin County, we have it in our own backyard.

ple, cars were allowed in the woods and visitors strolled about as they pleased. Camping was allowed and little effort was made to preserve

Coastal Redwoods—the world’s tallest trees

the vegetation or the fragile forest floor. Forget-me-nots and broom invaded, crowding out native species. For many years the park focused on individual redwoods rather than on the larger ecosystem that supports them; the Conservation Corps altered the natural flow of Redwood Creek, diminishing habitat for the trout and salmon; and no fires were permitted. (Fire promotes the life cycle of the redwoods by consuming dead underbrush, opening new areas to sunlight, and discouraging treeinfecting diseases like sudden oak death.) Now, after years of park revitalization, people are restricted to trails, invasive plants are being removed, Redwood Creek is being restored to its own channel, small controlled burns invigorate the redwood life

Formal name Sequoia (from the Cherokee chief Sequoyah) sempervirens (Latin meaning “always green”). Age Oldest verified: 2,200 years; average age: 600 to 1,000 years. Height 300 to 350 feet; taller than the Statue of Liberty. Width Circumference of 45 feet and diameter of 15 feet are not uncommon. Habitat A 450-mile coastal strip from southern Oregon to Monterey, California, where winter rain and summer fog reach inland for about 20 miles. Relatives 1) Sequoia giganteum, a more massive but shorter redwood that grows only in the Sierra Nevada. 2) Metasequoia glyptostroboides, a smaller, deciduous redwood found only in remote central China.

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THREE MEN WHO MADE A DIFFERENCE The story of how Muir Woods came to be a national monument provides a refreshing change of pace from today’s all-too-common tales of political corruption and greed-driven development. The two main players were boys, born weak and sickly, whose well-off parents sent them into the outdoors to become healthy and strong. Teddy Roosevelt grew up to be a Rough Rider and youngest president of the United States; William Kent grew up to be a successful investor and congressman. Both became ardent hunters and conservationists, which led them to know and admire the work of Scottish immigrant John Muir, the pioneering advocate for preserving wilderness and the first president of the Sierra Club. While other local forests were being cut down in the 19th century for lumber to build San Francisco and Oakland, Mother Nature protected the valley that is now Muir Woods. Muir Beach was inhospitable to ships, and the steep slopes of Mount Tamalpais were a formidable barrier for horses and wagons. In 1903, when these redwoods were threatened, the corporate owners of the land along Redwood Creek approached Kent and offered to sell him the property for $45,000—well below market price—if he would agree to save the trees. When his wife objected, Kent replied, “If we lost all the money we have and saved those trees, it would be worthwhile, wouldn’t it?” But the battle was not over. A few years later, a water company went to court in an effort to build a dam and reservoir in the valley. Fortunately, Congress had just passed a law enabling the president to accept gifts of significant lands. Kent got in touch with Gifford Pinchot, first chief of the U.S. Forest Service, who persuaded Roosevelt to accept Kent’s offer of the land. In 1908, Roosevelt proclaimed the woods a national monument, as Kent had wished. The president then wrote Kent a letter proposing that he, the donor, be the new park’s namesake. But Kent declined, replying, “Your kind suggestion of a change of name is one that I cannot accept. So many millions of better people have died forgotten…I have five good, husky boys…If these boys cannot keep the name of Kent alive, I am willing it should be forgotten.” The famed naturalist John Muir sent Kent a thank-you letter. “This is the best tree-lover’s monument that could possibly be found in all the forests of the world,” he wrote. “You have done me great honor, and I am proud of it…Saving these woods from the axe and saw, from money-changers and water-changers… is in many ways the most notable service to God and man I’ve heard of since my forest wanderings began.” The redwoods are not the only giants to appreciate when we visit Muir Woods. —E.P.

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Sim Van der Ryn marin’s inspirational advocate for regenerative design STORY P. J. BREMIER PHOTOS BARBARA RIES

B B

ORN IN HOLLAND AND RAISED IN QUEENS, New York, Sim Van der Ryn — the forward-thinking architect variously billed as outlaw builder, California state architect, godfather of green architec-

ture, founder of the groundbreaking Farallones Institute, eco-tect, author, teacher, and president of Van der Ryn Architects—lives on a ridge in Inverness with his fiancée Gale Parker and 13-year-old golden retriever Samantha. 98

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PE OPL E

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Marin Magazine visited Van der Ryn at his

the College of Marin’s Center for Regenerative

for Life. He spoke to Marin Magazine about his

home, which he describes as “resourceful,” with

Design, created to facilitate sustainability pro-

architecture, sustainability in general, and life

three sunny floors of rustic design built using re-

grams and solutions as part of the college’s

in Marin.

claimed wood and “found” windows. It sits amid

$250 million modernization program.

a five-acre wild landscape hiding surprises like a

Actually, Van der Ryn resists using the term

simple bocce court, a hammock, a chicken aviary,

“green,” preferring instead to embrace the con-

How did you earn the title “outlaw builder”? I taught a class in 1971 for the ar-

a flower and vegetable garden, and a hot tub pa-

cepts of whole and healthy systems, human-scale

chitectural department at UC Berkeley, after

vilion. The space is restful and welcoming.

communities, and beauty and consciousness in a

the demonstrations at People’s Park. I found

Living in Inverness is new for him: As part

more universal sense. He scoots around Marin in

this land in Inverness and had students come

of this phase in his life, he moved there from

an off-lease BMW convertible because he likes

out four days a week and experiment with

Sausalito and restructured his company. These

to see the sky; he eats canned crab from the

creating a little village, dealing with systems:

days he divides his time between speaking en-

Philippines where environmental fishing regula-

food, water, waste, shelter. It was a pivotal ex-

gagements that spread the word about sus-

tions are absent, just because it is delicious. “I

perience. One of the things that I don’t like

tainable living and putting that message into

am more an aesthete than a purist,” he says.

about architecture school is that design is all theoretical; you don’t learn anything that has

practice with innovative work. He’s involved

Recently inducted into Residential Architect

with the Fireside affordable housing project in

magazine’s Hall of Fame (“I didn’t know there

Mill Valley, the Lundberg Family Farms mas-

was a Residential Architect magazine,” he con-

I had gone to the county for permits and

ter plan in Northern California, and a private

fides), Van der Ryn was profiled in the New

Herb Wimmer, the former chief building inspec-

home on the Sonoma Coast. He also directs

York Times and has released a new book, Design

tor, said, “Just go do it. I don’t want to know

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MARIN MARCH 2006

to do with reality.

about it.” It was half a joke that we were out-

experiment in sustainable living before anyone

Living and working on the waterfront was a

laws, but when Dave Mitchell took over the

even used the term.

gift, but I consider this (Inverness) my home.

Point Reyes Light, I was already in Sacramento

As soon as that got going, someone offered

I realized I’m not interested in managing but

as the state architect and I was a little rude to

to loan me 80 acres of land in Occidental, so we

in working on a design with clients. The way

him. Somehow he got word that the state ar-

started a 15-week program. We wanted to build

I like to work is to team up with former em-

chitect had illegal buildings on his land so he

a center to show people how to use fewer re-

ployees or former students, bring in a good

wrote a big story about it and the wire services picked it up. I was at a conference

contractor, and

“

I think about buildings as organisms. Like our bodies, they have a metabolism. —SIM VAN DER RYN

at the Rockefeller es-

”

collaborate. The collaborative part is critical.

tate when a Sacramento Bee reporter called me

sources and integrate them more effectively. The

about it. And that is how it started.

Farallones Rural Center, which we operated for

You define yourself as an “eco-tect.” What does that mean? I think about build-

15 years, is now known as the Occidental Arts

ings as organisms. Like our bodies, they have a

and Ecology Center, a beautiful place.

metabolism. I’m interested in a building’s me-

Our next experiment was in Berkeley, where we bought an old house and rede-

tabolism, what it takes to support the life of a

signed it to see how far we could go toward being more self-reliant in urban areas in terms of food, energy, water, and waste. Started in 1974, the Integral Urban House was a 10-year

You’ve just moved your offices from Sausalito and redeﬁned your work style. Why? I decided to work in a different way.

building, what it takes to adapt it to the environment. Those are crucial ideas in a world of limited resources.

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What do you consider your first green project? It was probably the Bateson

in education the way I was and doing things

a movie theater here. He shows DVDs in a 50-

most people in education don’t do.

seat theater. Compare that to a 17-theater mul-

Building, the first new state building in

tiplex in Danville. It has to do with the scale

What was the state of the green movement when you started? We didn’t even use

of the community and the scale of resources.

the word. I don’t even know when green first

cycle our own water and use it? Why can’t we

How did you get into green building?

came in. I don’t like it much. It’s a fuzzy word.

grow some of what we need to eat?

It didn’t happen around being green. There

It’s all about marketing and it’s confusing. It’s

was always a consciousness. These questions

touchy-feely, somewhere between tree-hugging

came up through developing environmental

and a Prius. It’s more about lifestyle. It doesn’t

What’s a better way to think about “green”? There are three levels. We think of

awareness. There was the 1971 oil spill off of

talk about the deeper cultural issues.

“green” as design that reduces negative impacts

Sacramento that reduced energy consumption by 75 percent and was largely day-lit.

Why can’t we produce our own electricity, re-

on the environment. It may slow the rate at

Bolinas, then there was Earth Day, and way before that there was a pretty strong critique

What is the state of “green” now? It’s

which things grow worse, but today that’s not

by writers of the modern industrial culture

more complicated than just saying something

enough to save the next several generations.

destroying so much of value. We didn’t know

is just green. It’s better to have a car that gets

The second level is “restorative design,” in

about global warming in the ’70s but we did

60 miles to the gallon than 15, no argument. I

which we positively incorporate living systems

know about the destruction of culture, forests,

prefer to eat organic than nonorganic and live

into a building so people experience the interac-

and oceans.

in a house that uses less energy and is built out

tion between nature and the built environment.

of recycled or reclaimed materials. It’s just that

The highest level is “regenerative design,”

Who are the green architects you admire now? There was a very interesting

it becomes so slicked up… and there’s more to

where we work to regenerate and link up nat-

it that that. There’s community, there’s beauty.

ural systems that have been destroyed and de-

guy, Samuel Mockbee, who worked with his

If it begins with a philosophy and you want to

graded. When we begin to connect all the pieces

students in Alabama and Mississippi building

live a greener life, I can relate to that.

at every level of scale, then we are moving to-

houses for poor black families using almost

I’d like to see smaller, more self-reliant com-

all reclaimed materials. I admire him. He was

munities. Marin film director John Korty runs

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MARIN MARCH 2006

ward sustainability and preserving the future for those who follow us.

What were your successes as California’s chief architect? The biggest success was

growers and got a law passed permitting direct

where we express the reality we’ve lost in the

marketing of food from farmers to consumers.

grid/mechanical world, the world that the poet

showing the public and the profession that it

Robert Graves called “mechanarchy.” We are

ings that used 50 to 75 percent less energy

What would you do if you were Marin’s chief architect? For one thing, you have an

and that were buildings that people wanted

aging population so you have a lot of people

to be in because of how they were designed

who have the time and interest to make changes

What else would you like to do? At the

and day-lit. That really started the whole thing

in their lives. We’re ready to create a new idea

ripe young age of 70, I believe I have found

about calling me the “godfather of green.”

about Marin that focuses on some of the things

the love of my life. This place and our relation-

Those were the seeds that we are reaping now

we’re talking about for coherent communities.

ship are very high on my priorities. I’ve just

didn’t take rocket science to build new build-

part of nature, although we lack the language and design technology to fully express it.

We aren’t totally paved over in Marin, we’re

taken on a very exciting new job at the College

The other thing was the outlaw part. I felt

blessed with more public open space close

of Marin to use the bond measure and rebuild-

that the needs in rural areas were very different

to an urban area than probably anywhere in

ing of the college and its educational programs

than in cities so I got codes written that allowed

the United States, and the number of creative

as a way to move forward, not only with green

people in rural areas to do things not permitted

people here is vast. I see these innovators like

building but with restorative and regenerative

in cities, and there are a lot of people up and

Stewart Brand, Paul Hawken, and others in the

design approaches consistent with the county’s

down the coast who thank me for that.

airport taking their talents elsewhere. We have

new master plan—which makes sustainability

to harness their energy here and apply what

a cornerstone of Marin’s future. We will reach

we know here in our own environment.

into the rich experience of our whole commu-

in the so-called green movement.

I also created the Office of Appropriate Technology. That’s what we called sustainabil-

nity to implement COM president Fran White’s

ity in those days. I saw us as David fighting the

What is the message you’re spreading these days? The message is spelled out in the

vision of a new kind of college environment

so we rewarded communities that didn’t wait for the government to step in. That approach

last chapter of Design For Life. If we’re lucky, we

new “green” vocations, and a two-year aca-

made sense. We introduced the concept of lo-

are going to make the fourth major leap in hu-

demic program on campus that will be more

cal farmers’ markets and talked to early organic

man history through an ecological revolution

like a 24-hour learning village.

Goliath of big government and bureaucracy, and

that integrates lifelong learning, training for

MARIN MARCH 2006

103

Aegean overlook: Soaking up spectacular views from the terrace of Santorini’s Villa Renos

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J OU RNE Y

DREAM ISLAND Santorini Greek paradise known as crown jewel of the Mediterranean STORY & PHOTOS BEN DAVIDSON

“Out of this world.” That’s what we both said in awestruck wonder when we saw the view from our hotel perched high above Santorini’s sea-kissed volcanic caldera. My wife and I had taken a fast ferry from Piraeus, the busy port just outside Athens, across the Aegean for a fourday stay on this enchantingly beautiful Greek island, the crown jewel of the Cyclades. We had no plan, no expectations, not even a hotel reservation when we arrived. In fact, we had little idea what Santorini (ofﬁcially known as Thira) was all about, except for some rave reviews from friends at home. We had spent ﬁve great days exploring fascinating but congested Athens and were ready for some island-style rest and relaxation. MARIN MARCH 2006

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Whitewashed homes drape the steep sides of the volcanic caldera in the village of Ia, on Santorini’s north side.

An Aegean Utopia

tels, blue-domed churches, and narrow pas-

Santorini’s history goes back many thou-

Soon after docking at the pocket-size port of

sageways that drape Santorini’s steep cliffs.

sands of years. The Dorians, the Venetians, and

Athinios, we crammed into a small public bus

Evening was falling, and from our terrace we

the Turks have inhabited it, but the most influ-

for the winding ascent to Fira, the island’s busy

soaked up a wonderfully magical scene as the

ential early inhabitants were the Minoans, who

capital. Exiting at the modest bus station in

deep hues of sunset colored the velvety sur-

arrived from Crete between 2000 and 1600

the middle of town, we set out on foot to find

face of the sea and the sculptural forms of the

B.C. Despite the massive destruction from the

some accommodation. Wandering through a

town glowed around us. In over two decades

big earthquake (which occurred around 1650

maze of narrow streets, past tourist shops and

of travel, it was, hands down, one of the most

B.C.), a vestige of their presence on Santorini

restaurants, we came, within a few minutes,

beautiful settings I had ever seen.

remains at the ruins of Akrotiri, on the south

to a pedestrian walkway that follows the lip of

Not surprisingly, Santorini was named the

end of the island. We decided this was the best

the caldera. Into view came our first glimpse

top island destination in the world in 2005 by

place to start exploring, so the following day

of the world-famous panorama that makes

Travel & Leisure. It is indeed one of the earth’s

we boarded a bus and headed into the island’s

Santorini so spectacular. This is where we also

must-see places. Part of the island’s allure is

dry, hilly interior.

found, by sheer luck, a great little hotel, the

geography: It is the remains of an ancient vol-

Ancient Akrotiri was a Minoan outpost, ex-

Villa Renos, whose comfortable rooms stretch

cano, a circular island known as Strongili (the

cavated from volcanic ash starting in 1967.

out along the steep sides of the caldera.

Round One), that erupted with massive force

Some buildings, as high as three stories, date to

Our hosts, Zina and her husband Petro,

thousands of years ago, collapsing the crater

the late 16th century B.C. Among the treasures

welcomed us with warm Mediterranean hos-

and generating waves hundreds of feet high

discovered here were beautiful frescoes depict-

pitality, showing us to a room whose small

and so powerful that it’s believed the tsunami

ing scenes of an Aegean idyll, now on display at

terrace offered a wide view of the ocean and

wiped out the powerful Minoan civilization on

the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.

the blanket of whitewashed homes, small ho-

the island of Crete.

Accurate reproductions of these frescoes can be

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MARIN MARCH 2006

Pure blues, blinding whites, and churches that double as sculpture deﬁne Santorini’s dreamscape.

MARIN MARCH 2006

107

Cycladean steps: Stairways wend and wind through the island’s maze of homes and hotels. Right, a blue chair rests against the whitewashed wall of a Greek Orthodox Church.

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1/31/06 11:52:32 AM

NOT SURPRISINGLY, SANTORINI WAS NAMED THE TOP ISLAND DESTINATION IN THE WORLD IN 2005 BY TRAVEL & LEISURE. IT IS INDEED ONE OF THE EARTH’S MUST-SEE PLACES. seen at the Nomikos Convention center in Fira.

evening, enjoyed alfresco meals of fresh grilled

We wandered around the ruins, inspecting the

fish and chicken, big bowls of Greek salad with

ancient buildings and the large vases on display

ripe olives, fresh feta cheese, and baby toma-

under the excavation’s covered roof.

toes, and tzatziki—the classic creamy Greek

Back in Fira, we spent our time relaxing on

cucumber-yogurt dip.

our perfect little terrace, watching cruise ships

The following day we decided to head by

pull into the placid waters of the caldera and

bus to the beautiful whitewashed village of Ia

unloading skiffs of passengers for donkey rides

(also spelled Oia), perched on the tip of the

from the shore up to town. We spent our after-

island’s north end. Like Fira, Ia is built on the

noons taking pleasant walks through town, ex-

steep slope of the caldera. Along with sever-

ploring and photographing beautiful pastel and

al dozen other visitors, we took in Ia’s famous

blue-domed Greek Orthodox churches, and

sunset from a tip of land jutting out from

strolling on a coastal trail leading from town.

town, a view that made us feel fortunate that

We’d stop for snacks of spanakopita (spinach

we had, somewhat serendipitously, transported

pie) and bougatsa (custard pastry) and, in the

ourselves to an Eden at the ends of the earth.

GETTING THERE, WHERE TO STAY Santorini is the southernmost island in the Cyclades. Fast ferry service is available from Piraeus and Thessaloniki on the mainland. Olympic Airways operates daily flights to Santorini from Athens, Rhodes, and Mykonos. Other islands in the Cyclades, such as Mykonos, Naxos, Ios, and Paros, are easily reached by regular ferry service from Santorini, as is Crete. For general information on Santorini, see www.santorini.net. The Villa Renos has double rooms ranging in price from 170 to 220 euros, depending on the season. For details, see the website at www.villarenos.gr.

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GA LLE RIES

New Beginnings Spring ushers in fresh takes and familiar faces for Marin’s art connoisseurs. BY ANNE CRUMP RAY

ocated in a residential stretch of

mechanized conveyances. This is the artist’s

illustrated and hand-fabricated by the art-

Pacific Heights on the first floor of

ﬁrst Bay Area exhibition since 2001 and his

ist—with a broad selection of works primarily

a 1911 Willis Jefferson Polk–designed

third with Anthony Meier Fine Arts.

by Bay Area artists.

house, Anthony Meier Fine Arts effectively

Anthony Meier Fine Arts, 1969 California

Northern California boasts one of the

dispenses with the “white cube” aesthetic of

St., San Francisco, 415.351.1400, anthonymei-

country’s most vibrant communities of book

many contemporary art venues.

erﬁnearts.com; during exhibitions, 11–5 Tues–

artists, thanks in part to the prominence giv-

Fri, Sat by appointment; between exhibitions,

en the medium by the Legion of Honor’s Reva

Mon–Fri by appointment

and David Logan Collection of Illustrated

“It’s an unconventional space,” acknowledges gallery director Rebecca Camacho, “but it lends itself beautifully to minimal and

Books, and to the presence of esteemed

bookmakers on local university faculties.

fy their yen for ﬁne art, especially

at California College of the Arts] and Julie

since Donna Seager added another venue

Chen [who teaches at Mills College] have

coming New York artist who is already mak-

to the landscape last fall. In November, she

been huge influences on the quality and

ing his mark on the international art scene

opened the doors on her eponymous gallery

visibility of bookmaking in the Bay Area,”

and was selected for inclusion in the Whitney

in San Rafael, where she exhibits sculptures,

Seager says, noting that both are among

Museum of American Art’s 2004 Biennial.

paintings, and works on paper by an array

the preeminent book artists in the country.

conceptual contemporary art. The space softens the edges for people.” Through March 10, the gallery presents new works by Barnaby Furnas, an up-and-

Camacho describes Furnas’s work as “a

rt lovers north of the Golden Gate needn’t cross a bridge to satis-

“Artists like Betsy Davids [who teaches

of contemporary artists.

While Seager maintains a corner of the

mixture of abstract expressionism, cubism,

A veteran of CFA Gallery in San Anselmo,

gallery for artist’s books year-round, invit-

and historical still life.” Marked by strong

Robert Green Fine Arts in Mill Valley, and

ing visitors to sit, peruse, and read the hand-

lines, vivid colors, and explosive splashes, his

San Francisco’s downtown art hub 49 Geary,

crafted volumes in her possession, she want-

canvases highlight the characteristics of his

Seager had long dreamed of having a space

medium—the way the paint moves and the

of her own. “You develop your own eye and

textures it creates.

your own sense of art. You have creative

Beginning March 31, the gallery offers an exhibition of new works by London-based

ideas about the kind of art you want to put in front of your community,” she explains.

painter Jeremy Dickinson. Dickinson’s exqui-

Beginning March 1, she gives Marin resi-

sitely detailed canvases feature still lifes com-

dents the rare opportunity to delve into the

posed from his extensive collection of toy cars

beauty and craftsmanship of artist’s books—

and showcase his lifelong fascination with

unique or limited edition works conceived,

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MARIN MARCH 2006

Contemporary, Original Paintings and Sculptures

Mario Gomez “Sofia’s Dream” Oil on Canvas 30 x 40 inches

483 Magnolia Avenue, Larkspur, CA 94939 (415) 945-9454 www.gallerybergelli.com

Bergelli_0306_FNL.indd 1

1704 Tiburon Blvd. Tiburon, CA 94920 415.435.2511

Gallery108_0306_FNL.indd 1 1/25/06 4:27:23 PM

1/25/06 4:11:46 PM

MARIN MARCH 2006

111

Photo at top on previous page: Barnaby Furnas, Untitled, 2005 at Anthony Meier Fine Arts; photo at bottom right on previous page: Johanna Rogers, Secrets, at Donna Seager Gallery; photo at left: Jimmy Lee Sudduth, Line of People, at Spin Gallery

n elder statesman of outsider art

grasses, turnip greens, and other items col-

gets star treatment from one of

lected around his home. In recent years, he

Marin’s younger galleries this month

also has incorporated leftover house paint

as Spin Gallery rolls out the red carpet to celebrate Jimmy Lee Sudduth’s 96th birthday.

dropped off by friends and admirers. “Jimmy Lee is a living legend,” says Spin

From March 2 through 31, Spin showcas-

director Suzie Buchholz, who notes that

es approximately 20 of Sudduth’s paintings

Sudduth’s work is included in numerous mu-

from throughout his career, including six of

seum collections across the country and re-

ed to bring the books center stage with a

his newest pieces. A stalwart of folk art for

cently won him the Governor’s Arts Award in

special exhibition to spotlight the medium.

nearly four decades, Sudduth has attract-

Alabama. “His work is very sweet. You can’t help smiling when you look at it.”

To highlight the exhibition, Seager will

ed international attention for his primitive,

host a panel discussion on March 9, fea-

colorful depictions of life in rural Alabama,

turing notable book artists such as Chen,

where he lives.

Charles Hobson, Marie Dern, and Howard Munson, as well as a reception March 18.

The gallery will host an opening reception March 2 from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m., and it

Sudduth began painting as a child, using

will present a lecture about Sudduth and his

as his tools his ﬁngers, discarded plywood,

art on March 21. Both events are free and

Donna Seager Gallery , 851 Fourth St.,

and “sweet mud”—a homemade blend of rich

open to the public.

San Rafael, 415.454.4229, donnaseagergal-

Alabama dirt and sugar, molasses, or hon-

Spin Gallery, 11 Mark Dr., San Rafael,

lery.com; 11–6 Tues–Thurs and Sat, 11–8:30 Fri;

ey. He boasts a palette of 36 shades of mud,

415.499.7640, spingallery.net; 9–5 Mon–Fri;

closed Sun–Mon

as well as natural pigments from berries,

weekends by appointment

1/2 HORIZONAL

ADVERTISER

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CAL E NDA R

MARCH 2006 COMEDY Thursdays thru March Comedy Slam at Sam’s Debbie Campo of the San Francisco Comedy College hosts an evening of stand-up at Sam’s Cafe (Tiburon). 415.435.4527, sfcomedycollege.com

March 10 Best of the San Francisco Comedy Competition Join Mark Pitta and others at this annual event. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

March 30–April 1 April Foolin’ Magic and comedy by illusionist Patrick Martin at 142 Throckmorton Theatre CATS, one of the longest playing musicals on Broadway, is playing at the Orpheum Theatre thru March 5.

(Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

THEATER

March 10–12 Women on the Way Edgy theater, comedy,

Thru March 5

music and dance created and performed by

CATS Find out why this production,

female artists. Dance Palace (Point Reyes).

based on T.S. Eliot’s Old Possum’s Book of

415.289.2000, ftloose.org

MUSIC March 4 Christopher O’Riley Plays Radiohead Enjoy

Practical Cats, is the longest-running musical on Broadway. Orpheum Theatre (SF).

March 16–April 16

solo piano renditions of songs by the al-

415.512.7770, shnsf.com

Old Wicked Songs An American prodigy

ternative British band. Marin Center (San

visits Vienna. Marin Theatre Company (Mill

Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

Thru March 11

Valley). 415.388.5208, marintheatre.org

March 5 & 7

TheatreNOW Cabaret Series A musical variety show featuring Vicki Codoni, Gail

March 17–April 23

Leila Josefowicz The violinist plays

Gongol, Kim Williams, and others. Larkspur

Humble Boy Reminiscent of Shakespeare’s

Shostakovich, a new Magnum Opus commis-

Café Theatre (Larkspur). 415.897.9003,

Hamlet, this play by Charlotte Jones ex-

sion, and Rimsky-Korsakov’s Scheherazade.

visittheatrenow.org

plores love, longing, and death in the

Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.479.8100,

English countryside. The Barn Theatre

marinsymphony.org

Thru March

(Ross). 415.456.9555, rossvalleyplayers.org

March 10

Gem of the Ocean August Wilson’s play delves into the magical awakening of

March 24–25

Ray Manzarek Break on through to the

Citizen, a man seeking a new life; thru

The Seagull An adaptation of the comedic

other side with the Doors’ keyboardist, with

March 12. The Rivals opens March 23.

and tragic play by Chekhov, set in Ireland.

special guest Roy Rogers. 142 Throckmorton

Performed by A.C.T. at Geary Theater (SF).

Dance Palace (Point Reyes). 415.663.1075,

Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600,

415.749.2228, act-sf.org

dancepalace.org

142throckmortontheatre.com MARIN MARCH 2006

113

March 12

March 25

Thru March

Arlo Guthrie Forty years after his legendary

Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons Take a

Mixed Repertory Enjoy three differ-

protest ballad Alice’s Restaurant Massacre

trip down memory lane with this legendary

ent mixed repertory programs at the

went gold, folk musician Guthrie makes a

1950s rock ’n roll band. Marin Center (San

San Francisco Ballet. The ﬁrst, Program

Marin appearance, joined by his son on

Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

Four, features choreography by Jerome

keyboard and vocals. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

Robbins. War Memorial Opera House (SF).

March 25

415.865.2000, sfballet.org

Houston Jones The “ﬂatpicking” mastery of

March 15–19

guitarist Glenn Houston, voice and guitar by

Sarah Chang The 24-year-old violin-

Travis Jones, plus Chris Kee and percussion-

ist plays Finlandia by Sibelius and

ist Peter Tucker, all on one stage. Larkspur

Beethoven’s Pastoral Symphony. Conducted

Café Theatre (Larkspur). 415.924.6107,

by Marek Janowski. SF Symphony (SF).

larkspurcafetheatre.com

GALLERIES MARIN

Art Works Downtown

415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org

Realism An exhibition of works curated

March 17–19

by Carole A. Levy, March 2–April 24. 1337

Beethoven’s Fourth London-based Ronald

Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119,

Cavaye conducts three piano concertos and

artworksdowntown.org

other favorites with a string orchestra, featuring Paul Smith as piano soloist. Various

Claudia Chapline Gallery

venues (Marin). 415.485.9460,

Abstract expressionist paintings from

comopera.com

the ‘60s by Fred Blackman, thru March 27. 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach.

March 18

415.868.2308, cchapline.com

Yair Dalal & Friends Middle East meets

Contemporary Fine Arts (CFA)

Far East at this musical collaboration between Iraqi-born Israeli musician Dalal and

Violinist Leila Josefowicz performs with Marin Symphony March 7 and 8 at Marin Center.

Ongoing exhibits. 20 Greenﬁeld Ave, San Anselmo. 415.457.8847, cfagallery.com

artists from the local Ali Akbar College of Music. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000, marinjcc.org

March 27

Edith Caldwell Gallery

Elvis Costello with the San Francisco

Still-life paintings, contemporary tapestries,

March 24

Symphony Don’t miss Grammy-winning

and objets d’art. 819 Bridgeway, Sausalito.

3 Divas 6 Breasts One Great Night Join

rock legend Costello play his most popular

415.331.5003, edithcaldwell.com

talented performers; Daria, Gina Catania,

hits as well as his ﬁrst full-length orchestral

and Vicki Burns as they band together as

work, Il Sogno, in his Davies Symphony Hall

Gallery Bergelli

the “Jazz Divas” to perform sultry jazz favor-

debut (SF). 415.864.6000,

New work by ﬁgurative painter William

ites and raise money for the Marin Breast

sfsymphony.org

DeBilzan, thru March 15. 483 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.945.9454, gallerybergelli.com

Cancer Watch. Larkspur Café Theatre (Larkspur). 415.924.6107, larkspurcafetheatre.com

DANCE

Gallery Route One Ongoing exhibits. 11101 Hwy One, Point

March 24–25

Thru March 5

Reyes Station. 415.663.1347,

Cesaria Evora Don’t miss these two en-

Alvin Ailey American Dance Theatre More

galleryrouteone.org

chanting evenings of soulful Cape Verdean

than 45 years after their ﬁrst performance,

morna music—a blend of African blues

this modern dance company returns—yet

Garzoli

and Portuguese fado. Presented by Cal

again—for a season of classics and new pro-

Works by Edwin Deakin, Grace Hudson,

Performances at Zellerbach Hall (Berkeley).

ductions. Presented by Cal Performances

William Keith, and more. 930 B St, San

510.642.9988,

at Zellerbach Hall (Berkeley). 510.642.9988,

Rafael. 415.459.4321,

calperfs.berkeley.edu

garzoligallery.com

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MARIN MARCH 2006

Hanson Gallery Ongoing exhibits. 669 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.332.1815, hansongallerysa.com

Marin Society of Artists Spring Rental Show Artwork for rent; March 5–26. Marin Art and Garden Center, Ross. 415.454.9561, marinsocietyofartists.org

O’Hanlon Center for the Arts The “I” Behind the Camera Evocative and abstract photos on display; March 7–31. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org

The Painters Place More Than Just Picture Framers A variety of art by employees, on display thru March 18. 1139 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.461.0351

Robert Green Fine Arts Works on paper by artist Sam Francis, March 14–April 30. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgﬁnearts.com

Sausalito Art Collection Ongoing exhibits. 589 Bridgeway, Sausalito.

Be Leila’s lucky winner. Leila Josefowicz is one of the outstanding, rising-star violinists of our time. The Philadelphia Inquirer lauds her “appropriate pop-culture sensibility” and “party girl charisma” which combine to make her concertos “rock.” Time magazine calls her “one to watch.” Come watch her perform with the Marin Symphony on the same nights that she’ll pick the long-awaited winners of the Marin’s Violins raffles. Buy your raffle ticket(s) by downloading an order form at www.marinsymphony.org, and you could be one of the ten lucky winners receiving a violin work of art from Leila at Intermission! The Marin Symphony Alasdair Neale, conductor Leila Josefowicz, violin MARSHALL Bright Kingdoms SHOSTAKOVICH Violin Concerto No. 1 RIMSKY-KORSAKOV Scheherazade MARIN CENTER, SAN RAFAEL Tickets $24, $44 and $57 at

415.499.6800 Students half price

www.marinsymphony.org

415.339.9250

Spin Gallery A 96th birthday celebration for artist Jimmy Lee Sudduth; March 2–31. 7 Mark Dr, San Rafael. 415.499.7640, spingallery.net

William Lester Gallery California Landscapes, an ongoing exhibit. 11101 Shoreline Hwy, Point Reyes Station. 415.663.9365, williamlestergallery.com

SAN FRANCISCO

ArtHaus Ongoing exhibits. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com Raffle tickets sold separately.

Caldwell Snyder Gallery Cityscapes Mixed-media paintings by Paul Balmer; March 2–20. 341 Sutter St,

Concerts sponsored by Jackson’s Hardware and Bank of Marin. Marin’s Violins sponsored by Marin Magazine.

415.296.7896, caldwellsnyder.com MARIN MARCH 2006

115

MAKE HISTORY!

THE FIRST ILLUSTRATED HISTORY OF MARIN COUNTY, TO BE RELEASED IN JUNE, 2006 Marin: A History, by Barry Spitz—in association with the Anne T. Kent California Room of the Marin County Free Library—will be 336 oversized pages with 155 images and an embossed hard cover.

SPONSOR’S EDITIONS ARE NOW AVAILABLE FOR $100!

Fraenkel Gallery

Meyerovich Gallery

Works by Richard Misrach, on display March

Modern European masters including

2–April 29. 49 Geary St, 415.981.2661, fraen-

Pablo Picasso and Joan Miro. 251 Post St,

kelgallery.com

415.421.7171, meyerovich.com

Gallery Paule Anglim

Paul Thiebaud

Ongoing exhibits. 14 Geary St,

Ongoing exhibits. 718 Columbus Ave,

415.433.2710, gallerypauleanglim.com

415.434.3055, paulthiebaudgallery.com

George Krevsky Gallery

Rena Bransten Gallery

Evolution of a Painter The art of Maury Lapp

Installation and sculptures by Tommy

on display, thru March 24. 77 Geary St,

Stockel; March 2–April 8. 77 Geary St,

415.397.9748, georgekrevskygallery.com

415.982.3292, renabranstengallery.com

Gregory Lind Gallery

MUSEUMS

Paintings by Barbara Takenaga, thru April 1. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com

MARIN

Hackett-Freedman Gallery

Bolinas Museum

Paul Resika Recent paintings of moored

Ongoing exhibitions (Bolinas).

boats in harbors or out at sea and Works

415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org

from the Studio, an exhibition of bold paintings by Robert De Niro, Sr.; both on dis-

Falkirk Cultural Center

play March 9–April 29. 250 Sutter St,

Annual Juried Exhibition of Marin Artists A

Sponsorship ($100) includes one numbered book personally inscribed by the author, and a listing on a special sponsor’s page.

415.362.7152, hackettfreedman.com

showcase of work in all media by contempo-

Only 600 signed sponsor’s editions will be available, with numbers assigned by order date. Deadline: March 22.

March 1–April 3 at Hang Art. Chasing the

Author Barry Spitz has written histories of Mill Valley, San Anselmo, and the Dipsea Race.

rary Marin artists, March 30–May 27. (San

Hang Art and Hang Art Annex

Rafael). 415.485.3328, falkirkculturalcenter.org

New paintings by Siddharth Parasnis, Blues Works by various artists, all exploring

Marin Museum of the American Indian

shades of blue, March 1–April 2 at Hang Art

On the Red Road A pictorial essay on Plains

Annex. 556 & 567 Sutter St, 415.434.4264,

Indians, thru March 31. Miwok Park (Novato).

hangart.com

415.897.4064, marinindian.com

Jack Hanley Gallery

BAY AREA

Ongoing exhibits. 395/389 Valencia St,

20% of all sales and sponsorships will be donated to the Anne T. Kent California Room. Make checks payable to: Potrero Meadow Publishing, P.O. Box 3007 San Anselmo, CA, 94979. Include shipping address, name(s) to appear in book (up to 45 characters), and any desired inscription. Add $50 for each additional copy.

116

415.522.1623, jackhanley.com

Asian Art Museum John Berggruen Gallery

From the Fire: Contemporary Korean

Recent paintings by Christopher Brown;

Ceramics Featuring more than 90 artworks.

on display March 2–31. 228 Grant Ave,

March 24–May 21 (SF). 415.581.3500, asian-

415.781.4629, berggruen.com

art.org

John Pence Gallery

COPIA

Waichulis & Company Paintings by Anthony

Trashformations Discover how 112 artists

Waichulis on display, March 2–April 1. 750

found creative uses for other people’s every-

Post St, 415.441.1138,

day trash, thru May 8 (Napa). 888.512.6742,

johnpence.com

copia.org

MARIN MARCH 2006

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FAMILIES/KIDS

de Young

March 17–19

John Bankston Drawings and paintings using museum objects as iconography, thru

The Odyssey Learn about the travels of

MARIN

Odysseus through this local production, di-

June 25. International Arts and Crafts An

rected by Charlie Query and performed by

international perspective on the history

March 6

Marin primary and middle school students.

of arts and crafts, March 18–June 18 (SF).

Zappo the Magician Check Zappo’s para-

142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley).

415.863.3330, thinker.org/deyoung

normal acts like disappearing dots and, re-

415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

appearing rabbits as well as other tricks up

Legion of Honor

his sleeves, which are sure to provide enter-

March 18–19

After the Ruins, 1906 and 2006:

tainment for the whole family. Osher Marin

Surealia A theatrical production about a

Rephotographing the San Francisco

JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000,

young boy’s journey through a mystical land.

Earthquake and Fire Powerful images of

marinjcc.org

Stay for the “Enchanted Forest Party” after the matinee performance on March 19.

the city, then and now; thru June 4 (SF). 415.863.3330, legionofhonor.org

March 11–12

Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.499.6800,

James and the Giant Peach Join the curious

marincenter.org

SFMOMA

young James, his two aunts, and the won-

New Work: Wangechi Mutu, three collaged

derful creatures who become his friends in

March 25

works on Mylar, sculptures, and a site-spe-

this Bay Area twist on Roald Dahl’s beloved

“Sit-In” Concert Head out to West Marin to

ciﬁc wall installation, thru April 2. Surreal

children’s book, James and the Giant Peach,

cath the Marin Symphony Youth Orchestra

Calder Over 40 works by Alexander Calder,

produced and performed by the local

as they present an up-close performance for

along with artwork by other surrealists;

Masque Unit Junior Theatre. Marin Center

young children (and their parents). Dance

March 3–May 21 (SF). 415.357.4000, sf-

(San Rafael). 415.499.6800,

Palace (Point Reyes). 415.663.1075,

moma.org

marincenter.org

dancepalace.org

1/2 HORIZONAL

Go2Marin.com For all your Real Estate Needs… TOP PRODUCER 2005 ADVERTISER NO. 1 MARIN COUNTY REALTOR 2004 FOR 70 CLOSED TRANSACTIONS

Shana Rohde-Lynch 415.925.3225 ShanaMarin@aol.com

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MARIN MARCH 2006 117 12/29/05 12:44:18 PM

March 28

March 9–17

March 21–25

Lazer Vaudeville A high-tech twist on the

Tiburon International Film Festival Choose

Golden Gloves Get ready for the 75th

traditional arts of juggling, illusion, acrobat-

among 240 movies from 50 countries in

anniversary of San Francisco’s oldest ama-

ics, and comedy. Marin Center (San Rafael).

just one week. Genres of ﬁlm include fea-

teur sports event, a boxing tournament dat-

415.457.4878, youthinarts.org

ture, documentary, music video, anima-

ing back to the ‘30s. Check out the website

tion and more. Various venues (Tiburon).

for more history and information. Bill Graham

415.381.4123, tiburonﬁlmfestival.com

Civic Auditorium (San Francisco).

B AY A R E A

sfgoldengloves.com

Fridays thru March

March 11–12

Snake Feeding Watch as an academy bi-

Marin Collectors’ Marketplace A two-day

March 21–25

ologist feeds the anaconda, python, and

show featuring decorative and ﬁne art,

Bouquets to Art Stop and smell the roses!

other types of snakes while answering ques-

jewelry, dolls, and other collectibles. Marin

Bouquets to Art is back at the de Young,

tions. California Academy of Sciences (SF).

Center (San Rafael). 415.499.6800,

where dozens of elaborate ﬂoral arrange-

415.321.8000, calacademy.org

marincenter.org

ments—the work of 130 Bay Area ﬂorists—will be on display for ﬁve days. For a sneak peek

March 14

and sniff, check out the opening night gala

Pi Day Gather around the Pi shrine to per-

will be on March 20 (SF). 415.750.3504,

form Pi-related rites and eat ritual food–

bouquetstoart.org

a.k.a. pizza pie. Appropriately enough, this event takes place on the third month, the

March 25

14th day, at 1:59 pm, corresponding to the

Back to the Nightclub A llively evening of

ﬁrst six digits of Pi. Exploratorium at the

cocktails, dinner, dancing to Notorious, and

Palace of Fine Arts (SF). 415.563.7337,

a live auction with Dana King as the mas-

0exploratorium.edu

ter of ceremonies. Bimbos 365 Club (SF). 415.258.8422, backtothenightclub.com

EVENTS March 2 Bark and Whine Ball Bring your canine

March 30 This original musical production of Roald Dahl’s beloved children’s book, James and The Giant Peach plays March 11 and 12 at Marin Center.

friends and enjoy a cocktail buffet, si-

Book Launch Party Enjoy laugh-out-loud readings, wedding cake, music, and champagne in celebration of the launch of a new book, Tied in Knots: Funny Stories from

lent auction, music, and dancing with your

March 12

the Wedding Day. I Dream of Cake (SF).

pooch. San Francisco Gift Center (SF).

St. Patrick’s Day Parade You don’t have to

415.989.2253, tiedinknots.com

415.522.3535, barkandwhine.org

be Irish to enjoy this annual celebration—just

March 3–5

make sure to wear something green. (SF).

March 30

415.661.2700, sfstpatricksdayparade.com

Bread and Roses Beneﬁt Concert Head out

The Abraham Moheban & Son Collection

to the city for an evening of live music and

Part II Preview the collection on March 3-5,

March 15–19

help support Bread and Roses, a Marin–

Auction will be held on March 14. Bonhams

Flower and Garden Show Explore thou-

based organization dedicated to providing

& Butterﬁelds (SF). 415.503.3392,

sands of ﬂowers and plants, garden

free entertainment to those in need. Herbst

bonhams.com/us

seminars, and more. Cow Palace (SF).

Theatre (SF). 415.392.4400,

415.771.6909, gardenshow.com/sf

breadandroses.org

Oscar Night America Roll out the red car-

March 18

March 31

pet at the Smith Rafael Film Center, where

San Anselmo March Auction Bid on great

Party for the Park Join the fun at this auc-

you’ll enjoy a telecast of the Academy

items, mingle with shop owners, and support

tion and cocktail party with live music, food

Awards, a gourmet meal, a “predict the

the San Anselmo Merchant Association.

and rafﬂe prizes. All proceeds will help rebuild

winners” contest, and more. (San Rafael).

Saint Anselm Church (San Anselmo). down-

Sycamore Park. Mill Valley Community Center

415.383.5256, caﬁlm.org

townsananselmo.com

(Mill Valley). 415.388.2670, sycamorepark.org

March 5

118

MARIN MARCH 2006

LECTURES/WORKSHOPS March 2 Dave Eggers Among the most celebrated of an emerging generation of American writers, Eggers takes the stage to discuss past and upcoming works. California College of the Arts (SF). 415.551.9251, cca.edu

Marin’s Finest Boutique Hotel Collection Gives You Reason to Celebrate Enjoy $50 off when you book a two-night stay (Sunday – Thursday only; offer based on availability; cannot be combined with other offers; offer valid January 1st – March 31st, 2006)

March 6 & 9 Marin Speaker Series James Burke, creator of numerous PBS-TV specials, challenges our perceptions, the way we think, and how we learn. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, marincenter.org

March 25 An Evening with Ann Brebner The Marin–

Acqua Hotel • 555 Redwood Highway, Mill Valley, CA 94941 • 415.380.0400

based Renaissance woman—talent agent,

Mill Valley Inn •165 Throckmorton Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 94941 • 415.389.6608

casting director, and author—talks about her

Waters Edge Hotel • 25 Main Street, Tiburon, CA 94920 • 415.789.5999

work on ﬁlms such as Dirty Harry and Harold and Maude. Smith Rafael Film Center (San Rafael). 415.454.1222, caﬁlm.org

www.marinhotels.com These hotels are managed by Joie de Vivre Hospitality. www.jdvhospitality.com Photos: Cesar Rubio, Mark Darley

NATURE WALKS/TALKS Ongoing Local actor George Webber morphs into General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo as he retells the general’s life story and the history of Sonoma; speciﬁc dates on website (Sonoma). 707.694.5097, georgewebber.com

March 4 Whale Watching & Elephant Seal Spotting Come spend a day with naturalist Michael Ellis for a look at migrating gray whales and breeding elephant seals (Point Reyes National Seashore). 415.663.1200, ptreyes.org

March 30 Spring Wildflowers of Mt. Burdell Enjoy a six-mile hike as you search for signs of early spring flowers and seasonable insects, birds, and lichens with Bob Stewart. Late March is usually the month for peak flower production in this oak woodland (Novato). 415.663.1200, ptreyes.org MARIN MARCH 2006

119

Pizza • Pasta • Wine • Full Bar Rustico Complete Dinner Menu 39 Caledonia Street Sausalito, CA 94965 415.332.4500 www.windowsofitaly.com Open daily for lunch and dinner mention this ad for a complimentary dessert with dinner

Flavor, Friends and Fine Authentic Italian Dining 931 Fourth Street, San Rafael, CA 94901 456-2425

120

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WWW.SUSANLOUIEPHOTOS.COM

Rustico_0306_FNL.indd 1

Wedding Consultant and Events Planning 415.422.0637 www.boutiqueweddingsllc.com

MARIN MARCH 2006 BoutiqueWedding_0106_v1.indd 1

11/27/05 12:33:27 PM

FL AVOR

RAISING THE BAR Marin wine bars encourage unique tastings from near and far

Customers enjoy wine tasting at Rick’s Wine Cellar in Corte Madera.

BY RACHEL & DAVID MICHAEL CANE

NEIGHBORHOOD BAR can be like

sip, sample, and savor the flavors of new and

ence to unbelievable heights. Flights of wine

an extension of your home—a place

sometimes obscure wines. In Marin, both Cork

are available in three 3-ounce pours per flight

to entertain and meet people.The

Enoteca in Sausalito and Rick’s Wine Cellar in

so you can compare several different wines—

Corte Madera are perfect places to start.

for example, three different styles of cham-

PH OTO: JOHN STOREY

classic watering hole was dimly lit, filled with smoke, and had a well-stocked back bar that

Marin natives Rick and Candy Mendell

pagnes from the same area or three pinot noirs

was judged by the variety of spirits being

have created a retail shop/wine bar (Rick’s

from different regions. There is a large selec-

poured. A request for wine usually met with

Wine Cellar, 207 Corte Madera Ave.,

tion of wines by the glass and of half bottles—

the question, “White or red?” with only one

415.927.9466, rickswinecellar.com)where

often difficult to come by. Half bottles are good

or two low-priced or bulk-style choices avail-

you can peruse shelves full of vinous treasures

for hosting comparative tastings at home.

able. Tastes changed, of course: People started

to take home, or sample a few at the bar with

J.D. and Cornelia Stambaugh, owners

drinking by brand name only, ordering their

a selection of interesting artisan cheeses, sala-

of Cork (Cork Enoteca, 317 Johnson St.,

vodka or scotch by the label or even the flavor.

mi, and charcuterie. Those who opt for the bar

Sausalito, 415.332.2975, corksf.com), are

And wine came out from under the bar and

will be able to enjoy their selection in one of

another local husband-and-wife team devot-

took center stage. Today we have the wine bar,

the appropriately shaped glasses displayed on

ed to the fruit of the vine. This Italian-style

a place where a wine-savvy proprietor can of-

the back bar. Drinking any type of wine in the

enoteca combines food and wine in a cozy

fer choices by grape type, place of origin, and

“right glass” designed by the Reidel glassware

neighborhood setting. Whether you’re looking

style, and interested novices or experts can

company of Austria takes the tasting experi-

for a place to meet for a glass of wine before

MARIN MARCH 2006

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a night on the town or a post-movie nightcap and light snack, you’ll feel welcome and comfortable here. The wines represent a concentration of small producers and domestic labels, along with out-of-the-mainstream imports. J.D. is passionate about sharing lesser-known grape varieties such as Torrontes, a white wine from Argentina; Lagrein, a hearty red from Northern Italy and Santa Barbara County; and Blaufrankisch, a red from Austria. Featured bites on the menu in-

QUICK BITES Sometimes, what you really want is a good bottle of wine and food to take home. For that, Pizzeria Picco and Wine Shop in Larkspur hits the spot. What started as a unique wine store has evolved into a great wine bar with a spectacular Neapolitanstyle pizza. With only 11 seats, many faithful patrons order the pizzas to go, either frozen or hot out of the wood-burning oven. The classic margherita, the wild-mushroomladen “Seven,” and the “Specialized,” loaded with pepperoni and sausage, have been clear favorites. Executive chef Bruce Hill is certiﬁed as a pizzaiolo from the Verace Napoletana Association and adheres to using certain ingredients such as Caputo, soft low-gluten ﬂour that makes for an even more authentically Italian-tasting pie. The

clude seductive paninis—sandwiches filled

hand-pulled mozzarella and the pancetta are made on the premises daily. Some of the

with meats and cheeses and grilled to warm

other toppings have local pedigrees: Niman smoked salami, Molinari sausages, Star

perfection; crostini with herb and cheese top-

Route Farms organic vegetables. Organic soft-serve ice cream is available from Straus

pings; and salads made with local organic

dairy; a specialty menu item is the vanilla, served as a sweet and savory dish, with lo-

produce. Once a month, Cork features a chef

cally produced Da Vero extra-virgin oIive oil and Maldon crystal salt from England.

series: food-and-wine pairings prepared by San Francisco restaurant cooks.

Some regulars come just to try a new wine selection from the group of carefully chosen bottles, all fairly priced at under $30. Many are available by the glass, and a

Rachel and David Michael Cane—winners

sommelier can help you choose the perfect varietal to go with whatever pizza, salad,

of the coveted James Beard Foundation Award

or soup you have ordered. Picco Pizzeria does not take reservations, but it’s worth the

for Excellence—host A Matter of Taste, Sundays

short wait—especially since while you’re waiting, you can sample a wine you’ve never

from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Talk 910 KNEW–AM,

tried before. —R.C.

San Francisco; www.amatteroftaste.com.

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FA MI LY

Appreciative Parenting BY DENVER COLEMAN, PH.D.

lways on the lookout for stories that can apply to parenting, I was intrigued recently by the following vignette. While not about

parenting per se, it demonstrates a strategy that, when applied to raising children, might just make the job easier. During its first year of business, ProCare, an auto repair business, found that 95 percent of its customers reported complete satisfaction. Not resting on its laurels, the company then studied the problems of the less-than-satisfied patrons of its business. However, contrary to expectations, customer satisfaction then decreased and employee morale fell. So the company hired consultants. These advisers, specialists in the field of Appreciative Inquiry (AI), convinced ProCare

dren. But if we focus entirely on problems, are

future. Comparing him to Seabiscuit reinforces

we really helping them?

perseverance: Jimmy might imagine himself as

to stop focusing on problem areas and, instead,

What if we ask only positive questions?

a racehorse the next time the going gets tough.

study the 95 percent of customers who were

Questions that begin affirmative conversa-

And the image of one day tutoring other kids

completely satisfied. Soon, company morale im-

tions, that inherently value and recognize our

deepens and affirms the worth of Jimmy’s

proved and customer satisfaction climbed. What

offspring? Who knows, their future might be

work. Nice work, Dad.

happened? ProCare began making inquiries

easier to step into. Here’s a simple example:

about customer satisfaction, which, in turn, di-

Jimmy is shooting hoops in the driveway

rected company growth in a positive direction.

when his dad, Robert, drives up. “Hey Jimmy,

Appreciative Inquiry, or AI, was devel-

how’d you do in math?” Robert asks, knowing

oped in the 1980s by Dr. David Cooperrider,

Jimmy studied late into the night. “I got a 78,”

a professor of organizational behavior at the

Jimmy replies. Dad’s eyebrows arch. “Great,

Weatherhead School of Management at Case

let’s celebrate,” he says, adding, “You remind

Western Reserve University in Cleveland. AI’s

me of that horse in the movie Seabiscuit—you

premise is that the subject an organization stud-

never quit.” “Yeah.” Jimmy smiles and Robert

ies—and the way it’s studied—plays a signifi-

continues: “Before you know it you’ll be tutor-

cant role in the direction of the organization’s

ing other kids—what helped you get so much

growth. Also, that asking negative questions

better so quickly?”

about problems tends to . . . create more

Robert made a great parenting decision.

problems. AI has been used by people world-

His words make Jimmy feel valued, and if he

wide, from the Dalai Lama and U.N. Secretary

has any criticism he doesn’t express it. Asking

General Kofi Annan to the Girl Scouts.

what helped him get “so much better so quick-

As parents, we ask lots of questions—some-

ly” presents Jimmy’s late-night studying as a

times it’s the best way to connect with our chil-

sign of strength and a tool he can use in the

124

Denver Coleman, Ph.D.’s practice is based in Mill Valley. Email questions or comments to drdenver@comcast.net.

DR. DENVER SUGGESTS ■

Google “Appreciative Inquiry” to learn more about this process. ■ If you tend to focus on your children’s problems, see what happens when you limit your attention to questions about their strengths. ■ Choose the direction of your topics carefully so that you don’t find yourself heading down a road steeped in criticism. ■ Use questions that encourage your kids to dream and anticipate their future. Celebrate success. What could be more fun?

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M IC ROCL I M ATE

POINT REYES STATION West Marin’s changing center of commerce

BY JIM WOOD PHOTOS TIM PORTER

OTHING IS FOREVER—even in the venerable West Marin town of Point Reyes Station. The foggy farming town is now showing signs of change: outdoor outfitting shops, more than one art gallery, occasional traffic on Main Street. Those things concern Elizabeth

Ptak, who has lived in the area for 35 years and written a community column for the Point Reyes Light since 1994. When asked what she would change about the town, she says, “The change I hope to see is . . . that the town’s authenticity and character don’t change.” Ptak, director of outreach for the Marin Agricultural Land Trust (MALT), worries Point Reyes Station will lose its integrity as an agricultural community and become just another tourist destination. “I’ve always considered Point Reyes a farming town where people knew each other as neighbors,” she says. “Now I go to lunch and see a few friends, but also lots of people I don’t know.” Not all the unfamiliar faces belong to tourists. “It also has to do with technology, with telecommunicating,” Ptak says. “Writers and consultants now live here and work from home.” That concerns her as well. She doubts the wired newcomers will be as locally involved as the “back-to-

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POINT REYES STATION STOPS When visiting Point Reyes Station, poke your head into these unique establishments for a bit of local color. Pine Cone Diner – This authentic ’4 0s diner was featured in Gourmet magazine and listed as a Bay Area place for a great cheap meal. North end of town. Cheda’s Garage – A voluminous mechanic’s garage that smells of oil and dust; established in 1923, it’s the oldest AAA-contract station in the United States. Middle of town.

the-earth” townspeople were when she came to

more than it is now, 675 to 700 people.” (The

West Marin. “What I like best about this area

U.S. Census Bureau put it at 818 in 2000.)

is how people come together to resolve their

Like Ptak and Costas, Mitchell feels Point

differences,” Ptak says. “Whether it’s ranchers

Reyes is in transition. “Nearby Point Reyes

and environmentalists, or the dairy farmers and

National Seashore attracts 2 million visitors

oyster fishermen, they always work toward a

a year; the Park Service recently bought the

middle ground, which makes for a compatible

563-acre Giacomini Ranch at the entrance to

community.”

town for open space; and it appears the Grandi

Steve Costas is owner of Point Reyes Books,

Building, built in 1915, will be restored as a ho-

one of two successful bookstores in town. His

tel and retail space,” Mitchell says. “For us, those

store serves as “the town’s living room,” says

are major events.” While lamenting some chang-

Costas, “because school board members, the

es, he welcomes others. “Local businesses can’t

Tie-Dyed Designs – A virtual shack specializing in tie-dyed T-shirts and political posters, e.g., “Republicans Enter at Your Own Risk.” Weekends only. North end.

publisher of the local paper, ranch owners, and

exist anymore without catering to visitors; we’re

people traveling up and down the coast stop by

slowly being ‘Carmelized,’” Mitchell says. “At the

the store and, before long, conversations en-

same time, the emergence of a strong Latino

sue.” Costas doesn’t fully share Ptak’s concerns

community has given Point Reyes a whole new

Route One Gallery – A nonproﬁt, cooperative art gallery showing the works of local painters, photographers and sculptors. Prime corner, south end of town.

about the increasing role of tourism in Point

cultural dimension, which is exciting.” Latinos

Reyes Station. “Times change,” he says, “and

(about 10 percent of the population here) have

Point Reyes is resisting change in an admirable

progressed from being farmhands in the 1970s

way.” In fact, much of Costas’s business depends

to managers of local businesses today, Mitchell

on outsiders. “It’s probably 70 percent visitor, 30

says. “One example is Oscar Gamez. He came

percent local,” he says. “But it’s an interesting

here 20 years ago, learned English, took college

mix. This is a ferocious reading community.”

courses, is sending his kids to college, and he’s

Old Western Saloon – A wooden-ﬂoored saloon given prominence when Prince Charles and wife Camilla stopped for a pint and petted Fred, the pug. Center of town. Dance Palace – Point Reyes’ vibrant community center. Location of everything that’s anything: dances, speeches, readings, and recitals. Off Main Street. Station House Café – For nearly 25 years, a ﬁrst-class bar and restaurant; indoor and outdoor seating, local organic fare. Center of town. Tacqueria La Quinta – True Mexican music and bright, bright colors dominate this authentic and exuberant restaurant. Inexpensive and good. Center of town.

Point Reyes Station isn’t a city. Officially, it’s

now a manager at Toby’s Feed Barn.”

an unincorporated area of Marin County, with

Toby’s itself exemplifies the transition in

a formal village association being the first stop

Point Reyes Station. Once, it was known primar-

for anyone planning to build a new home or

ily for selling bales of hay, straw, oats, and an

add on a room. Most historians credit 1875 as

occasional tray of bedding plants or vegetables.

the town’s year of origin. That’s when the nar-

Today, Toby’s has dropped “Feed Barn” from its

row-gauge North Pacific Coast Railroad stopped

bright red sign and its spacious, center-of-town

at a depot built in the middle of a pasture.

location now includes a yoga studio, an espresso

Point Reyes grew from there—but not very

bar, a specialty foods section, and an art gallery.

much. “Through good times and bad,” says for-

In Point Reyes Station, though it may be

mer Point Reyes Light owner-publisher-reporter

challenging for the occasional visitor to spot,

Dave Mitchell, “the population has never been

the times they are a-changin’.

Left: Elizabeth Ptak, director of outreach for MALT, which is headquartered in Point Reyes Station; center: Steve Costas, owner of Point Reyes Books; right: Dave Mitchell, former Point Reyes Light owner and publisher.

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Contemporary Luxury in Peaceful Mill Valley This Middle Ridge estate is truly magnificent and one of a kind. A Craftsman style home with contemporary features throughout, this home is perfect for the most discriminating of families. Recently upgraded with the finest materials, this five bedroom, four and a half bath home has remarkable detailing as well as panoramic views. Amenities include a chef’s kitchen with Subzero refrigerator and refrigerator drawers, an entertainment room with surround sound speakers, great room with Quartersawn oak floors and custom built walnut cabinets and bench, an exercise room with Mt. Tam views and a level and meticulously landscaped lawn and play area. No details left untouched!

Features: ■ Five bedrooms, four and a half baths, totally upgraded ■ Chef’s kitchen with Miele dishwasher, Viking range, Subzero refrigerator and drawers ■ Media and exercise room with Mt. Tam views ■ Potential for Au Pair suite ■ Sunny level back and side yard ■ Minutes to downtown Mill Valley and San Francisco

First Marin Realty Danielle Pengelly (415) 290-6097

Melissa Zech Offered at: $3,295,000

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Last Chance to Live Here

(415) 722-8521

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Sausalito View Homesites: • Sweeping vistas of the San Francisco skyline, Golden Gate Bridge, Marin Headlands, and the Paciﬁc Ocean • Private gated road • 1.5 acre level estate site

10 MINUTES TO SAN FRANCISCO

Large sloping building lot with incredible views. $1,100,000. Terms available. Maryann Diluzio Real Estate • 415-332-8555 Co-listed with Danielle Chavanon, Sotheby’s International Realty • 415-296-2224

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MARIN MARCH 2006

Gorgeous Custom Tudor Style Home

223 Van Tassel Court, San Anselmo

$2,250,000 Located on a quiet cul-de-sac. Four bedrooms, 3 ½ baths. Spacious master suite with jacuzzi tub, and walk-in closet. New Karastan carpets and oak hardwood ﬂoors. Large living room with garden view. Formal dining room with custom cabinets. Family den with surround sound. Kitchen with breakfast area overlooking fully landscaped garden with mature fruit trees, complete irrigation system, complimenting beautiful deck.

Offered by Norma Borja Prudential Cathedral Hill Phone: 415-730-0276 Email: nborja@aol.com

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Real Estate

Knowledge

You Can Trust. Jimmy Knows Marin

Coming Soon To Marin San Anselmo Estate

Peaceful Palm Hill, Larkspur

This contemporary ﬁve bedroom, four bathroom

400 Elm Avenue is located atop the prestigious

estate is in the Sleepy Hollow area of San

ﬂats of Palm Hill., featuring Southern Views

Anselmo. The immaculate interior includes a

of Mt. Tamalpais, rose gardens and lawn. The

bright kitchen and great room overlooking the

style and elegance of this home speak of

gorgeous landscaped yard, gardens and pool.

comfort, warmth and contemporary living. This

This sunny jewel is one of a kind. Coming in

home affords all the tranquility and desirability

February 2006.

Larkspur has to offer.

If you are planning on buying or selling or would like more information about any of these properties please give us a call

Jimmy Wanninger 415.990.8990 24/7

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The Enclave of Tranquility

105 Windwalker Way, Novato As it’s name implies, Tranquility is a peaceful enclave of 21 luxury homes on 18 acres in a setting of enduring natural beauty. Tranquility features rolling hills, towering oaks, permanent open space, pristine marshlands and sweeping views of the countryside. 105 Windwalker Way is located on a spectacular half acre level lot with gorgeous southwest orientation just a short distance from the trails and scenery of Deer Island. Additional photos available at www.JimmyMarin.com

Interior Highlights: • Master suite with marble tile work, Jacuzzi Tub, stall shower, dual sinks and dual walk-in closets. • Three additional bedrooms, one with en-suite bath. • Eat-in Kitchen with granite counters, stainless appliances and access to the rear lawn. • Great Room with fireplace, media center and access to rear lawn and front patio decks.

Exterior Highlights: • One half acre lot with fenced flat back yard, large lawn, and play structure. • Expansive Pergola-covered patio and fire pit. • Front Patio and covered loggia with over 1,100 square feet of exterior lounging space. • Oversized three car garage with large storage room.

Price available upon request

Jimmy Wanninger 415.990.8990 24/7

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D I A LO GUE

TEWART BRAND MIGHT BEST be described as a mover and shaker. He has a degree in biology from Stanford. He’s been an Army officer and a photojournalist for the Pentagon. He received an Acid Test Diploma from Neal Cassady in 1966. In 1968 he found-

ed the Whole Earth Catalog and helped launch a nationwide ecology movement. His books include The Last Whole Earth Catalog, for which he

received the National book Award in 1972;The Media Lab: Inventing the Future at MIT; How Buildings Learn: What Happens After They’re Built; and most recently, the 1999 title The Clock of the Long Now: Time and Responsibility. Long-term thinking is his current preoccupation. In addition to cofounding the All Species Inventory in order to ﬁnd and document all life on Earth in 25 years, Mr. Brand is the cofounder of both the Long Bets and the Long Now Foundations formed to foster accountability in long-term thinking. He lives in Sausalito with his wife, Ryan Phelan, and can often be found striding through the wilds of Marin.

138

BY SAMANTHA SCHOECH

You could live anywhere. Why Marin? My wife and I live on a tugboat. We could indeed be anywhere with water that is at least 6 feet deep. Berthed in Sausalito, we’re in a community dense enough that no doors are locked. We’re close to a freeway, close to San Francisco, close to the headlands and Mount Tam. What makes you happy in Marin? Hiking before dawn, several times a week, wherever is steep and wild. Doing violent, vigilante removal of invasive species like French broom and Jubata grass. What gets on your nerves here? Marin banning genetically modified organisms makes me roll my eyes. I was trained as a biologist and still work occasionally with field biologists. GMOs offer far more advantages than disadvantages for preserving the natural world, along with their huge potential for improving nutrition, biomedicine, and other services such as energy and carbon sequestration. What’s your personal idea of luxury? An Apple computer with all the fixin’s and a Treo 650 with all the fixin’s. What do you value every day? Sunrise. Weather—rain or wind rank highest. What person has influenced you the most? Lately? Probably the quartet of Brian Eno, Danny Hillis, Peter Schwartz, and Kevin Kelly—all are friends and close colleagues at the Long Now Foundation and Global Business Network. What’s been the most fulfilling moment in your work? Lately I’ve been running a series of public lectures in San Francisco called “Seminars About Long-Term Thinking.” It includes big names like Jared Diamond and Freeman Dyson along with some people with important new ideas whom few have heard of. When those lectures shock an audience into a realization, I’m very happy. What’s a Marin stereotype that fits? “I want it all now.” What stereotype doesn’t fit? “Mellow.” What makes your skin crawl? Animal rights activists, except the Buddhists. What’s your desert island book or album? On hikes I take small poetry books—Robert Frost, Emily Dickinson, Robinson Jeffers, Gary Snyder. What’s your favorite place to unwind? Just across the line in Sonoma my wife and I have a place where we can watch the Petaluma River go by. How do you want to be remembered? That one’s not my problem or interest. If some determined rememberer wants details, Stanford Library is collecting my papers and stuff. More information can be found at www.longnow.org.

PHOTO: BARBA RA RIES

Stewart Brand

MARIN FEBRUARY 2006

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