Issuu

MARI N E X T R A O R D I N A R Y

L I V I N G

JUNE/JULY 2005

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CONTENTS

Features 62 home design

Hillside dream

Living in the shadow of Mount Tam: This Kent Woodlands home is a collaboration between architect and clients. story jim wood photos david livingston

70 think

Spirit Rock

Buddhist values of compassion and mindfulness are taught at this very special Woodacre retreat. story samantha schoech photos theresa vargo

78 journey

Umbria

Discover the medieval hill towns of Umbria, very much like Tuscany but without the crowds. story & photos ben davidson

86 life

Dipsea Celebrates 100 Years

Marin County’s 7.1-mile annual footrace from Mill Valley over Mount Tam to Stinson Beach, and its legends. story austin murphy M A R I N J U N E / J U LY 2 0 0 5

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CONTENTS

Departments 23

at-a-glance

snap

fashion

Hot tips day by day around the Bay

Marin’s philanthropists supporting four great beneﬁts. by mimi towle

Life’s a beach. by samantha schoech Life Style: David Irmer, a chat with one dapper Tiburon businessman.

40 fyi Books Zorro author Isabel Allende; favorite historical novels Home Designers do dishes, bedding, and home furnishings Performing Arts Marin’s children’s theater Gifts Great ways to spoil Dad Gardens Outdoor/indoor furniture upholstery

go Escape to The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay, only an hour from Marin County. by jim & nikki wood

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play

looking back

It’s Friday night sail time on the Bay. by mimi towle

Remembering Sausalito’s Marinship. by jim wood M A R I N J U N E / J U LY 2 0 0 5

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113

CONTENTS

122

Departments 20 letters Readers respond to Marin Magazine.

92 galleries Three galleries showcase paintings and sculpture. by anne crump ray

97 flavor The best sandwiches in Marin. by andrew baker

98 calendar A roundup of performing arts, events, galleries, and more.

113 microclimate A tale of two cities—Belvedere/Tiburon. by jim wood

122 dialogue A talk with Marin County actress Robin Wright Penn.

Columns The Cover A detail of Beach Ball & Wave painted

view from mount tam

pov

108

family

The creators of Marin Magazine welcome you to share their vision.

What’s happening with San Quentin’s new addition? by jim wood

by San Francisco artist, Tjasa Owen. This piece and other works can be viewed online at tjasaowen.com. 12

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To summer camp or not to summer camp. by dr. denver coleman M A R I N J U N E / J U LY 2 0 0 5

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STYLE • NEW DESIGN • INTIMATE • CAPTIVATING • PANORAMIC VIEWS • UNPARALLELED

Editorial principal/editorial director Nikki Wood ext 105 nwood@marinmagazine.com

principal/editor-at-large Jim Wood ext 106 jwood@marinmagazine.com

departments editor Mimi Towle ext 101 mtowle@marinmagazine.com

associate editor Samantha Schoech sams@marinmagazine.com

calendar

There are hundreds of hotels around the bay, but only one directly on it.

Juliane Cortino-Ross calendar@marinmagazine.com

contributing writers Andrew Baker Jay Bartlett Denver Coleman, Ph.D. Harriot Manley Austin Murphy Anne Crump Ray

Art art director Trpti Todd ext 112 ttodd@marinmagazine.com

production consultant Karyn Kraft ext 111 production@marinmagazine.com

contributing photographers Ben Davidson David Livingston Sheri Montgomery Bob Morris Barbara Ries Theresa Vargo

Marin Magazine One Harbor Dr, Ste 208 Sausalito, CA 94965 phone: 415.332.4800 fax: 415.332.3048 email: editorial@marinmagazine.com web address: marinmagazine.com

30 El Portal Sausalito, California 94965 Ph: 415.332.9535 Fax: 415.332.6714 www.innabovetide.com

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Specializing in Contemporary Realism

principal/publisher Lisa Shanower ext 107 lshanower@marinmagazine.com

Advertising advertising director Courtney Q. Roberts ext 108 croberts@marinmagazine.com

account manager Lisa Wolford ext 110 lwolford@marinmagazine.com

account executive Genevieve Luckel ext 109 gluckel@marinmagazine.com

advertising art director philip michelson Baseball on Red Watercolor 30 x 22 inches

Karyn Kraft ext 111 production@marinmagazine.com

819 Bridgeway | Sausalito | California 94965 415.331.5003 | www.edithcaldwell.com

Administration controller Jill Harmston ext 104 jharmston@marinmagazine.com

Volume 1, Issue 2. Marin Magazine is published in

J A PA N E S E A N T I Q U E S

Specializing In Screens Since 1975

Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Marin Magazine LLC. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed bimonthly to homes and businesses in Marin County. Subscription rates are $24 per year. Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Sausalito, CA 94965. Phone 415.332.4800, fax 415.332.3048, email editorial@marinmagazine. com, website www.marinmagazine.com.

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P H OTO : B A R B A RA R I E S

V I E W F R O M M O U N T TA M

S WE STATED IN THE INAUGURAL View from

70) or stroll calmly through Belvedere and Tiburon

Mount Tam column, our intention in pub-

(page 113). Certainly, if serenity is your goal, put off

lishing Marin Magazine is to celebrate

reading Editor Jim Wood’s Point of View regarding San

Marin County’s extraordinary living ex-

Quentin’s $220 million death row expansion (page 26).

perience and become an integral part of the community. Readers responded with overwhelming support through letters and emails.

It could stress you into overdrive. Several Marin personalities are highlighted in this issue, including actress Robin Wright Penn, who submits

“I read the new Marin Magazine cover to cover and

to the Marin Questionnaire on page 122; Isabel Allende,

enjoyed it immensely,” says one reader in a letter we re-

who is profiled along with her new book, Zorro, on page

ceived after 45,000 issues were distributed countywide

40; and hiker extraordinaire Barry Spitz, who steps out

in April. We are grateful for the positive responses that

on page 88 with his first column for the magazine. Other

have come in (see Letters, page 20) and we’ll continue

stories include a cruise up the Delta to Sacramento, the

to work hard to create a magazine that lives up to your

hows and whys of sending kids to camp, a World War II

expectations.

Sausalito shipyard, beach fashion, local sandwiches, and

With the June/July issue of Marin now in front of you, join us as we journey with photojournalist Ben Davidson to Umbria, in the rugged Apennine Mountains of Italy (page 78). Almost as beautiful—and much clos-

a Kent Woodlands dream home. Our overriding wish is for your good reading. Enjoy Marin Magazine—as we continue to celebrate this extraordinary place!

er to home—feel what it’s like to run or hike the famed

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Dipsea Trail from Mill Valley to Stinson Beach (page

Lisa Shanower, Publisher

86). Too much action? Then meditate at Woodacre’s

Nikki Wood, Editorial Director

Spirit Rock with Buddhist teacher Jack Kornfield (page

Jim Wood, Editor-at-Large

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LETTERS

Beautiful ads, too

arrived in the mail today. Congratulations! It

That said, I would like to know: 1) What is

I’ve just received my new copy of your maga-

is certainly beautiful, and your editorial page

the price? 2) Where is it available to buy? 3)

zine and it’s beautiful. The photography is out-

promises more.

Can you subscribe to Marin Magazine?

standing, the articles most interesting, a real

George Webber, a.k.a. General Vallejo, Via e-mail

Jeff Cramer, San Rafael

mix of stories that make a good blend. Even your ads are beautifully done. Paper it’s print-

Cover to cover enjoyment

Editor’s note: Thanks for asking. At pres-

ed on is first class and the whole magazine is a

Read Marin Magazine from cover to cover and

ent, copies of Marin are available to pur-

treat to read. Congratulations to all of you.

enjoyed it immensely. It has great layout and

chase on newsstands, including Book Passage,

design, well written articles; and I like the

Boardwalk Market, Mollie Stones, Book Depot,

Joan Rosenthal via email

quality of the paper. Thank you for providing

Borders, Barnes and Noble, and Tower Records.

Blown away

not only Marin, but also the entire Bay Area

Marin Magazine is also mailed to 40,000

I’m blown away by the absolutely beautiful

with this much needed read.

Marin households. If you live outside our con-

Carol Peplinski, Via email

new Marin Magazine. It’s sophisticated, yet

tions are available by mailing a check for $24

practical. I’ve read virtually every word (and I never read magazines). How do we subscribe?

trolled circulation area, one-year subscrip-

Top of the charts

to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite

P.S. I’m going to accidentally leave the ar-

Many congratulations on the first issue of

208, Sausalito, CA 94965, or by logging on to

ticle about not wearing socks with sandals out

Marin Magazine. It’s just terrific! Beautiful,

marinmagazine.com.

for my husband Nick to see . . . horrifying!

well organized, interesting. A first rate job and

Caren Orum, via email

Homesick in Portland

lots of work I’m sure. I hope it goes to the top

Letters to the editor may be edited for brevity

of the charts.

and clarity. Send letters to Marin Magazine, One

Paul N. Erickson, Tiburon

Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965

Marin Magazine arrived yesterday and it is

or email to jwood@marinmagazine.com. Our

making me homesick. I like the matte finish on

Loved the ads

the cover; it separates your magazine from any

I want to tell you how much I enjoyed Marin

others. Also, loved the shots of Mary Poland;

Magazine. I’ve read it cover to cover. I loved

Corrections: In the April/May issue of Marin

she’s such a beauty. Good assortment of subject

the ads, the artwork, the articles; and the cov-

Magazine, the woman in the picture with

matter. I think Marinites would be so happy.

er was beautiful. It was a joy to see and read.

KGO-TV’s Dan Noyes was not his wife, Judy, as

Ruth Carlson, Tiburon

captioned on page 35; it was Marsha Bell, an

Diane Shields, Portland, Oregon

website is marinmagazine.com.

organizer of the Hair Ball/Art Inspiring Hope

What were you thinking?

Best of luck

event. And on page 70, the listing for The Inn

We just got Marin Magazine . . . great ads. I

For many years I’ve wondered why Marin

Above Tide in the article titled “Instant Escapism”

thought everything worked . . . except the cov-

County didn’t have/couldn’t/wouldn’t support

contained errors. The inn has 29 rooms, not 26

er photo. What were you people thinking. . it

a high quality magazine. Throughout the years

as mentioned; also, it serves its guests a continen-

looked just like the College of Marin’s catalog.

I’ve watched many ill-fated attempts to launch

tal breakfast, and the number to call for reserva-

Best of luck.

a magazine, and sadly shaken my head. Marin

tions is either 800.893.8433 or 415.332.9535.

Magazine nailed it both counts: editorial and

Marin Magazine regrets making these errors.

Thom Calandra, via email

advertising.

Good looking

I wish you the best of luck. Jason Jennings, Tiburon

Marin Magazine looks great . . . a terrific launch. Congrats. Bruce Raskin, via email

In need of answers I just read the first copy of Marin Magazine

General Vallejo checks in

and was delighted to see the wonderful and

Even though I give tours in Sonoma (I’m

diverse content. I enjoyed the story on the

the General Vallejo Walking Tour of Sonoma

Mount Tam Muir Woods Railway. What you

Plaza), I live in Marin and your new magazine

are doing is splendid. Keep up the good work.

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Dan Noyes and Marsha Bell

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AT A GLANCE JUNE

Quick picks on what to see and do around Marin and beyond JUNE THRU AUGUST California Currents

▼

Sand drawings and ocean music. Headlands Center for the Arts, June 12. 415.331.2787, headlands.org

JUNE 3 THRU OCTOBER Night Vision Find a Film Night in the Park near you. All venues are outdoors in Marin and San Francisco. 415.453.4333, filmnight.org

JUNE 11

Rich Chocolate

Rock, Swing and Waltz

Explore the dark, rich world of the magic cocoa bean via taste testings, exhibits, and hands-on demonstrations. California Academy of Sciences, SF. 415.321.8000, calacademy.org

Entertainment including local rock stars Train, jazz singer Minnie Driver, Violent Femmes, and the Village People are all scheduled to perform. San Francisco Symphony’s Black and White Ball, Civic Center, SF. 415.864.6000, bwball.com

JUNE 12

JUNE 19

JUNE 21

Happy 100th Dipsea Race

A Father’s Day Treat

Night Hike

Treat Dad to Gentlemen’s Dream package at Evo Spa. 415.383.3223, evo-spa.com

Summer solstice and full moon make it a perfect evening for a stroll.

▼

JUNE 11 THRU SEPTEMBER

In 1905 the first Dipsea racers made their way from Mill Valley 7.1 miles over Mount Tam to Stinson Beach; today those who made the application cut will be able to follow in their footseps. For the rest, there’s a Centennial Celebration at the finish line. 415.331.3550, dipsea.org

Art for Dad It’s Father’s Day—take him out to the Marin Art Festival to browse the work of local artists and sample savory treats. Marin Center Lagoon. 415.388.0150, marinartfestival.com

JUNE 25

Über Urban Spa

14.2 Miles of Fun

Bliss Spa opens, offering treats like movies-while-you-manicure. W Hotel San Francisco. 415.281.0990, blissworld.com

Didn’t get into the Dipsea? Do the Double Dipsea—Stinson to Mill Valley and back again. 415.978.0837, dserunners.com

JUNE 26

JUNE 30 —JULY 4

Pack the Camera

Marin County Fair

Very low tides today, especially in the morning, ideal for tide pooling and long beach walks.

Big-name entertainers, big rides, big fun, open from 11am to 11pm, Civic Center Drive. 415.499.6800, marinfair.org ▼

JUNE 23

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AT A G L A N C E J U LY

Quick picks on what to see and do around Marin and beyond JULY 1 —4 Local Talent

▼

Landscapes, seascapes, and more at Marin/Scapes art exhibit, Escalle Winery (Larkspur). 415.457.6964, marinscapes.org

JULY 4

JULY 8

JULY 11

Hometown Parades

Shakespeare at Stinson

Castaway Collection

Sausalito: Starts at Richardson and Third at 10am. 415.289.4152

Opening night of Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead (outdoor theater), 415.868.1115. shakespeareatstinson.org

Sea-inspired pieces by local jeweler Stacey Lorinczi at WilkesSport, Mill Valley. 415.566.7394, lorinczi.com

THRU JULY

JULY 14

The Shots

Bastille Day

Check them out. Playing at Fairfax Coffee Roasters and many other Bay Area venues, full schedule at theshotsmusic.com

Bertrand Tavernier’s homage to the great expatriate jazz musicians. Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.388.4956, Paris-expat.com

JULY 23

Napa Valley Classic

Wine and Dine

North Bay equestrian event in Calistoga— enjoy a day of horses, wine, food. 707.942.4222, napavalleyclassic.com

Head up to Benziger Winery for a wine-maker dinner with Jeffrey Reilley. 707.875.4406, bodegabaylodge.com

JULY 29

JULY 31

Renaissance Fun

San Francisco Marathon

If you’ve never been, check out the everreturning Renaissance Faire, Stafford Lake (Novato). 415.897.4555, forestfaire.com

This popular race crosses the Golden Gate Bridge and loops through the Presidio. 415.284.9653, runsfm.com

▼

Bolinas/Stinson: Parade after traditional tug-of-war with Stinson over the Bolinas channel. 415.868.2128 Larkspur/Corte Madera: Starts at Redwood High at 10:30am. 415.924.0041 Ross: Starts at College of Marin parking lot in the early afternoon. 415.453.1453 Novato: Parade starts at Grant Ave/Scott Court at 10am. 415.899.8920

Fireworks Sausalito, Marin Civic Center, San Francisco Bay, all begin after dark.

▼

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Fashions for Living

Nordstrom, Macy's, The Cheesecake Factory and 80 upscale shops and restaurants. Highway 101 at Paradise Drive in Marin. For guest assistance and to purchase gift cards, visit the Concierge. (415) 924-8921 www.VillageAtCorteMadera.com

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3/11/05 8:58:34 PM

POV

San Quentin’s Death Row

BY JIM WOOD

Thoughts on a grotesque $220 million expansion . . . and capital punishment To me, this ever-increasing prisoner population is

Marin’s San Quentin State Prison will be built.

overwhelming evidence that in America, capital punish-

Construction on a pair of two-story, dark-gray cell

ment does not work. Why? Because swift justice is the

blocks is set to begin this September. They’ll house over

only solution—yet swift justice is contrary to America’s

1,000 death row inmates.

belief in human rights. For a moment, forget that

This has been a long-running controversy.

government-sanctioned killings are barbaric, error-prone,

Though legally Marin County has little control over

capriciously enforced, biased, ineffective as a deterrent,

this issue, many local leaders believe San Quentin should

and vastly more costly than life without parole.

be replaced with mixed-income residential/commercial/

The indisputable fact is that nationwide more than

recreational properties along with a deepwater ferry ter-

3,200 murder convicts are awaiting execution. And

minal. Certainly, they say, its 432-acre bayfront location

to everyone’s consternation, especially the families of

merits a better use. “This is an opportunity to construct a

victims, the wait is excruciatingly long. Why? Because

world-class public space,” says Central Marin Supervisor

the state—our government—cannot, should not, and,

Steve Kinsey, “and if it’s lost, it’s lost for a century.”

thankfully, will not take a human life without explor-

Few can deny the state’s 153-year-old prison is decrepit, expensive to operate, and susceptible to the col-

ing every possible legal avenue to ensure that “we the people” are killing the correct person.

The indisputable

lapse of critical walls during an earthquake. “It doesn’t

fact is that nation-

make sense,” Marin Assemblyman Joe Nation has said,

decades. At San Quentin, since California reinstated

“for a state as broke as California to put hundreds of

capital punishment in 1978, more convicted murderers

wide more than 3,200 murder convicts are awaiting execution.

millions into a prison that’s literally falling down.” That argument, however, cuts both ways. According to a state audit, the cost of relocating San Quentin’s

tences overturned or commuted or have been released. Authoritarian regimes—Cuba, Iran, Saudi Arabia, and

from selling the prison’s acreage. Furthermore, no com-

China—don’t have such problems; lacking concern for

munity anywhere wants convicted murderers, regardless

human rights, they kill within days of conviction.

of security. At the same time, Department of Corrections

Is this what we want in America? I don’t think so.

officials oppose putting death row in a remote location,

Therefore, though it has no legal or political sig-

insisting that inmates need to be near legal and medi-

nificance, I endorse a $220 million death row at San

cal services.

Quentin. It will be a “monument to insanity,” reminding

So why is it okay for death row—and the state’s only

millions who see, read, or hear about it that in America,

execution chamber—to be in Marin County? Because

a nation that respects human rights, the death penalty

San Quentin was here first; it was established in 1852.

doesn’t work and will never work. The new death row

And according to state law, San Quentin is the only

will house 1,432 inmates—over twice the current pop-

But executions aren’t taking place. At least not at

ulation of 640—thus indicating the problem will only grow worse, not better. This is madness.

the rate California courts have handed down death sen-

Hopefully, San Quentin’s $220 million grotesque

tences. As a result, 640 murder convicts are now await-

monument to the unworkability of America’s death

ing execution in San Quentin’s death row, and to house

penalty will someday result in capital punishment be-

them, and their counterparts to follow, the Legislature

ing abolished forever across our land.

says, a larger, more secure facility must be built.

026-027_POV.indd

have died of old age or suicide (35) than have been executed (11). Also revealing, 65 inmates have had sen-

death row inmates would exceed by millions the profit

prison in California where executions can take place.

That’s why appeals, stays, and legal wrangling take

That’s my point of view. What’s yours?

PH OTO: BARBARA RIES

t appears a $220 million death row addition to

M A R I N J U N E / J U LY 2 0 0 5

5/16/05

10:17:54 AM

“We have very tight deadlines here. First Republic treats our needs as a priority.”

BARBARA RIES

BILL HAMBRECHT FOUNDER AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE, WR HAMBRECHT + CO

P R I VAT E

B A N K I N G

SAN FRANCISCO

•

LOS ANGELES

L E N D I N G S A N TA B A R B A R A

•

I N V E S T M E N T, N E W P O RT B E A C H

B R O K E R A G E

SAN DIEGO

LAS VEGAS

T R U S T NEW YORK

1-800-392-1400 • www.firstrepublic.com • N E W Y O R K S TO C K E XC H A N G E S Y M B O L : F RC • M E M B E R F D I C • E Q U A L H O U S I N G L E N D E R

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“ M O ST P O P U L A R P I N O T N O I R ” – W I N E & S P I R I T S , 15 T H A N N UA L R E STAU R A N T P O L L

Exciting new tasting room opening mid summer in Healdsburg.

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3/11/05 9:09:43 PM

SNAP

Glitter Ball Larissa Bell

Alexandra Brown, Jana Cuneo

Catharina Soesetyo, Melissa DeMaria

Dan and Judy Noyes

Shelton Jones, Zöe Kretzschmar

ORIGINALLY A SOIREÉ for San Francisco’s Junior League,

Bill and Dr. Lisa Dana

the Glitter Ball was established to reconnect with alumnae over the holidays, and has evolved into a fund-raising powerhouse for the Women’s and Children’s services at California Paciﬁc Medical Center. Led by co-chairs Shelton Jones and Zöe Kretzschmar, this year’s event was a dazzling success. The Brenda and Don MacLean Jack and Loulie Sutro

local group Anything She Wants rocked the Venetian room, and partygoers enjoyed the ﬁne food and beverages provided by the Fairmont until the wee hours. This year the event raised $40,000 that will go toward providing wireless fetal monitors for the maternity ward at CPMC. —M.T. Yfa Kretzschmar, Chris Chappell

Sarah Gammill, Renan Kilki

Barbara Brown

Marvin and Angela Grove

M A R I N J U N E / J U LY 2 0 0 5

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Robin Coupar

Victoria Richardson, George Hume

5/16/05

3:44:14 PM

SNAP

Down to the Nightclub

David and Gloria Hood

OVER 200 PEOPLE, mostly from Marin, got down and funky at Bimbo’s in San Francisco to raise money for the Sunny Hills Children’s Garden. Guests enjoyed music by local group the Cheeseballs and DJ Maru as they sampled food from Melons Catering of San Francisco. The co-chairs Gloria Hood and Cathy Frymier with help from CBS anchor Dana King (who emceed the evening’s events and auction), raised over $150,000 to go toward programs and services, including $30,000 to build a new central kitchen for the campus in San Anselmo. —M.T. Julie McMillian

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Threads Michael Roth

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Montgomery and Anne Woods Mary and David Robinson

NEARLY 500 FASHIONABLE guests gathered at Fort Mason’s Herbst Pavilion for Threads: the California College of Arts Gala & Fashion Show. After a tasty dinner by Paula LeDuc ﬁne catering and a warm welcome by CCA president Michael Roth, guests enjoyed an inspiring fashion show featuring collections from the Fashion Design program’s graduating students. Co-chaired by Kimberly Blattner and Anne Robinson Woods and with sponsors such as Osterweis Capital Management, the event raised over $240,000. Funds from the event will go toward maintaining CCA’s commitment to offering scholarships to more than 70 percent of its student body. —M.T.

Carla Emil, Rich Silverstein

Barbara Brown Janet Booth, Robin Strawbridge

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Leigh and Bill Matthes, George Jewett

Lois Gordon, Delia Ehrlich

Charles Fulford III, Geoff Strawbridge

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THE REGENCY CENTER in San Francisco buzzed with close to 400 ﬁnely dressed parents, soon-to-be-parents, and other patrons as they socialized while supporting their favorite tot spot, the Bay Area Discovery Museum. Once the not-

Marci and Andy Sherman

so-silent auction ended, party-goers grooved to familiar tunes played by the local band, Notorious. During the entire event guest dined on portable party food (Caesar salad in a cone and mini-burgers) provided by Nico Martin. Co-chairs Amy Curtis, Erika McGrath and Hilary Sessions along with committee members including Lance Ledrew of Organized Chaos, helped to Marty McGraw, Hilary Sessions

Debbie Niedermeyer, Nancy Bernstein

raise over $75,000 for the Discovery Museum. —M.T.

Brian and Michelle White, Kevin and Laura Ferguson

Leanne and David Hansen

Don and Jane Young

Barbara Brown Phoebe and David Holscher

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FASHION

Beach Babe

Zöe Magee grew up in

Santa Barbara, where bikinis are de rigueur weekend wear. Like many of us,

she had just a teeny bit of trouble finding a bikini

custom bikinis for every body

that fit. Fortunately, rather tank suits with baggy elastic and ill-fitting straps, she took matters into her own hands and started Zöe Bikini, a bathing suit company that aims to please the hard to fit. She offers a variety of sexy, Brazilian-inspired, off-therack two-piece suits, but it is her custom bikinis in a rainbow of hip colors and patterns that are the true strokes of genius. For $120 Zöe will make a bikini that fits you like, well, like a bikini should. It’s enough to make even the beachphobic jump for joy. —S.S.

Brazilian bikinis by Zöe Bikini, $90—$120 at Gala (Larkspur), 415.924.7680, or custom made by appointment, 415.250.1377 or zoebikini.com

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P HOTO: TH ERESA VAR G O/ THERESA VA RG O P H OTOG RAPHY; H AIR / M AK EUP: LI NDSAY ARN O L D ; MO D E L : A L E X A N D RA M AGA L L A N E S

than submitting to dowdy

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P HOTO: TH ERESA VARG O/ TH ERESA VARG O PH OTOG RAP HY ; HAI R/ M AKE UP: LI NDSAY ARN O L D ; MO D E L : A L E X A N D RA M AGA L L A N E S

Sand Toys The right gear for the perfect day in the sun Yes, we know it can be freezing at the beach in

The key to preparedness is having the

summer. But there are also those spectacular

right gear, and here it is: ﬂip-ﬂops from Brazil

days when the sun triumphs over the fog and

(where they know a thing or two about the

we’re treated to picture-perfect beach weath-

beach), a hat and sunglasses that would

er—the kind that begs us to cash in on those

make a movie star proud, and a few other

sick days, load up on sunscreen, and head over

essentials to ﬁll the gorgeous totes (one for

the mountain to claim our spot in the sand.

her, one for him) shown here. —S.S.

Sunglasses both by Dior, $240 and $190 at Canvas (Mill Valley), 415.383.0520. Lanai sun hat by Helen Kaminski, $160 at Mill Valley Hat Box (Mill Valley), 415.383.2757. Tool bag and beach mat both by Jack Spade, $195 and $75 at Kate Spade (San Francisco), 415.216.0880. Antigua Tote by Hadley Pollet, $348 at Brown Eyed Girl (San Francisco), 415.351.2122. Age-Defying Solar Care by Zia Natural Skincare, $14—$17 at Whole Foods Market (Mill Valley), 415.381.1200 and (San Rafael), 415.451.6333. Metallic ﬂip-ﬂops by Havaiana, $12 at Canvas (Mill Valley), 415.383.0520.

M A R I N J U N E / J U LY 2 0 0 5

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FASHION

life style Name David C. Irmer Home Tiburon Occupation Real Estate Developer, the Innisfree Companies

038-039_Lifestyle.indd

What are you wearing?

What is the single most essential piece

A Zegna tie, a Canali shirt, and Brioni

in your wardrobe?

slacks, all from Gene Hiller in Sausalito.

I’m an absolute clotheshorse, but the

A Brioni jacket purchased in Rome last

sport coat is what I can’t live without.

summer. Gravati shoes from Arthur

A navy blue Brioni blazer—it goes with

Beren on Union Square, where I buy all

almost everything I own.

my shoes.

What clothing would you never be

Where would you wear this outfit?

caught dead in?

To work. To a city council or planning

Green pants with the frogs or the

commission meeting. It’s casual and un-

whales on them—the kind that East

assuming.

Coast people wear. I’m not one for

Describe your personal style.

wearing denim or jeans, that super-

I generally stay away from suits (al-

casual look. I am always most comfort-

though I own more than 40 of them). I

able in a pair of slacks.

am seldom without a jacket. It’s the way I

What’s your fashion pet peeve?

was brought up—if you’re going to work,

People who don’t take enough time to

dress as if you’re going to be successful.

put themselves together. Perhaps they

How long does it take you to get ready

don’t care enough.

in the morning?

What do you splurge on?

Eight minutes, but that’s a bit of a bone

Cars, trips, jewelry for my wife, and

of contention in my house. My closet is

watches for myself.

arranged by color. I lay out my outﬁt in

What is your best cheapo secret?

my mind while I’m showering. It takes

I’m not a real price-conscious guy. My

about 30 seconds.

pals suggest that if Irmer can’t pay

Who are your fashion influences?

them 15 percent over retail, then he’s

I don’t know that I ever look at someone

not happy.

and think, “I want to look like that.” Tom

Where do you love to shop in Marin?

Gangitano at Gene Hiller has been my

Gene Hiller is the only men’s shop I

stylist for over 25 years.

shop at in Marin.

Who are your favorite designers?

What’s the most expensive thing you’ve

Zegna, Prada (their shirts, not their

ever bought?

suits). Brioni makes my favorite suit. I

A $20,000 Corum watch.

love Zanella slacks.

Did it make you happy?

What is always in your pocket?

It still does. I don’t wear it all that much

A $20 gold-piece money clip I’ve had

because it’s so fancy, but for dress-up

for 25 years.

it’s very nice. —S.S. M A R I N J U N E / J U LY 2 0 0 5

5/11/05

1:55:16 PM

038-039_Lifestyle.indd 39

5/10/05 1:35:41 PM

FYI BOOKS

MIGHTIER THAN THE SWORD Author Isabel Allende ﬁghts injustice wherever she sees it— just like her latest character BY SAMANTHA SCHOECH

sabel Allende hates parties. “I am very short, so my nose is at ev-

erybody else’s navel,” she says, sounding almost indignant. “Just standing with a glass of wine talking to people in high heels—I

find it torture! I feel better when I’m in my little house, writing.” This is bad news for social planners but good fortune for readers. By skipping the meet-and-greets, Allende, who lives in Marin, manages to write a novel a year from her backyard garden cottage that serves as her studio. This spring, she is besting even her own prolific tendencies with two books coming out within months of one another. Zorro is a fictionalized account of the early years of Diego de la Vega, who would grow up to become the heroic fencer immortalized in comic books, movies, and cartoons. Like her previous novels Daughter of Fortune and

A Tale of Two Cities by Charles Dickens (Penguin Classics, $7)

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The Agony and the Ecstasy: A Biographical Novel of Michelangelo by Irving Stone (Signet, $9)

“I learned a lot about the French revolution when I read it at the age of

disguises herself as a man, enters a

“It’s a lively, colorful depiction of the era

15th-century Florence. I’m learning a

13. Sidney Carton is one of the great

monastery, and is elected pope. It has

that rekindled my interest in art history.

lot about the Renaissance—the author

heroes of literature.”

action, adventure, romance, and a very

It’s quite funny in parts, too.”

really did her research.”

—LESLIE JOBSON, A CLEAN WELL-LIGHTED

dramatic and violent ending.”

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110” European Fabrics & Home Furnishings Portrait in Sepia, Zorro is rich in California history, a subject that fascinates Allende. Forest of the Pygmies is a magical adventure story for young adults set in Africa that Allende wrote for her grandchildren. “It was a great experience,” she says, “but I really like to write for adults better because it gives me more freedom.” Allende was born in Peru, grew up in Chile, and was exiled to Venezuela after the 1973 coup in which her uncle, President Salvador Allende, was overthrown. She moved to the Bay Area 18 years ago to pursue the man who soon became her husband. Allende writes in her native Spanish about people she calls “marginals,” because that is how she often feels. “I don’t belong total-

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the fictional worlds she creates. The Isabel Allende Foundation, founded in 1996, was started with seed money from the sales of Allende’s best-selling 1995 memoir Paula, about the death of her daughter. The foundation supports organizations helping to empower women and children in need by providing education, health care, and protection from violence in a number of countries, including Chile and the United States. Many organizations in Marin County have benefitted from Espiritu Awards given each year by the foundation. Where does she find the time for all this? She begins each new novel on January 8 and works through the winter. Summers are reserved for family visits and trips to Chile. The foundation, she explains, is what occu-

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FYI GIFTS

Schedule a test drive in a new Maserati Spyder, or take a guess on his favorite color—Grigio Touring (silver), Nero Carbonio (black), or Gialla Granturismo (yellow)—and put one in the garage. $95,000. Ferrari and Maserati of San Francisco, Mill Valley, 415.380.9700, maserati.com

IT’S DAD’S TURN Check out these fun Father’s Day gifts for all types of dads

Keep Dad warm

For all he does, Dad deserves some fun toys too. Whether it’s a Montblanc pen to sign tuition

with this season’s

checks or a whimsical ride in the sexy Maserati Spyder, give him something to remember this year and let him know he is appreciated.

new Billabong Solution Gold wet suit, and if he hasn’t been in the water recently, throw in a private surf lesson or two. $260 wet suit, $80 per lesson. 2 Mile Surf Shop, Bolinas,

He’ll think of you every time he uses his Le Grand Traveler Fountain Pen from Montblanc, created for people on the

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For that dad who indulges in a weekly poker night, give him the poshest set of cards at the table. The Poker Set by Dunhill, $2,700. Saks Fifth Avenue, Union Square, San Francisco, 800.776.4053, dunhill.com

Show off those daddy long (or short) legs in these cotton trunks by Vilbrequin. Ideal for a family day at Stinson Beach. $160. WilkesSport, Mill Valley, 415.381.5183, wilkesbashford.com

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FYI GIFTS

GETTING DAD ABOVE IT ALL On a clear day over the bay, you can see forever The yellow and white seaplane seen in Marin skies on sunny afternoons is a beautifully restored deHavilland Beaver, built in 1955 for the British air force. Powered by a nine-cylinder Pratt & Whitney engine, it cruises at 1,500 feet over Sausalito, Belvedere, Tiburon, Mill Valley, and Stinson Beach, heads south for a spectacular look at the surf of San Francisco’s Ocean Beach, then crosses eastward over the Golden Gate Bridge. Veteran pilot Charlie Clotere announces landmarks to passengers over the intercom during the tour. Flights— half an hour—leave from Sausalito and run $129 for adults, $99 for children. For reservations, call 415.332.4843.

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5/12/05

12:26:57 PM

A CRUISE TO THE CAPITAL The Jeremiah O’Brien, a WWII Liberty ship, cruises to Sacramento on July 29 More than 10 years ago, the S.S. Jeremiah O’Brien sailed from San Francisco to Normandy beach in celebration of the 50th anniversary of D-Day. Of the 5,000 ships involved in the 1944 invasion, it was the only American ship able to make a return appearance. On July 29 of this year, the O’Brien, generating 2,500 horsepower from a threecylinder, triple-expansion steam engine, will sail from San Francisco’s Pier 45 up the Sacramento River to the state capital. A barbecue lunch, a 1940s-style swing band, and refreshments will be on board for the nine-hour cruise. Air-conditioned buses will return passengers to San Francisco. Tickets for the cruise, $175, are available by phone, 415.544.0100 or check out the website for information: ssjeremiahobrien.org.

M A R I N J U N E / J U LY 2 0 0 5

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5/12/05

12:27:15 PM

FYI GARDEN

LUXE LOUNGING Fabulous new hues for every home and patio Let the sun shine…and the rain fall! With new bright, bold, and durable designer fabrics, alfresco living is both fashionable and comfortable. This season, retailers are busy stocking their showrooms with new outdoor fabric hues like terra-cotta, tangerine, and fern. “I’ve been in the business for 20 years, and never seen such great colors,” declares Pat Cerkel, the manager of PatioWorld in San Rafael. She’s talking about Sunbrella’s latest line of UV-and mildew-resistant, machine-washable fabrics that are soft enough to use indoors. “People have started using these fabrics in sunny rooms, because the colors don’t fade,” explains Linda Emmons of Calico Corners, a fabric retailer in Greenbrae. And as for durability, she continues, “it’s a wonderful fabric; we’ve even tested it with Clorox bleach pens to take out stains, and the color doesn’t fade.” Until recently, custom fabricators were the only ones with access to this ever-improving palette of colors and styles, but now you’ll ﬁnd a colorful fade-resistant patio set is just a credit card swipe away. —M.T. Above: Brown Jordan Harmony Chaise, Frellen’s, 415.459.6144 Right: Fabric swatches, Calico Corners, 415.461.0923 Far right: Sunbrella pillows, Restoration Hardware, 800.910.9836

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M A R I N J U N E / J U LY 2 0 0 5

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12:53:20 PM

C re a t i v e

Occasions

Be a Guest at your own Event

Larry Dyer Photography

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Parties • Weddings • Special Events C

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3/12/05 5:51:08 PM

FYI HOME

DESIGNERS DO DECOR Fashion designers bring their talents home In addition to controlling multimillion-dol-

would be interested in living with.” If you’ve

lar fashion empires, designers like Kate

been shopping for home items lately, you

Spade and Todd Oldman have been busy

may have noticed some newcomers.

doing dishes, making beds, and otherwise

While Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, and

expanding their brand to include home fur-

Donna Karan have been doing it for years,

nishings. Why? As Giorgio Armani

brands like Vera Wang and Nicole Miller

says, “Because I couldn’t find

have recently emerged on the scene. Locally,

what I wanted for my own

Oscar de la Renta’s china collection is show-

homes, I’m offering items that I

ing exclusively at Gumps in San Francisco. And, as you may have heard, Tommy Bahama just opened a store on Main Street in Tiburon offering pieces from his island-inspired home collection. Do these fashionistas measure up in the bedroom and kitchen? Check out these offerings and decide for yourself. —M.T.

Clockwise from left to right: Larabee Dot Carafe and Euro Wine Glasses by Kate Spade, $85, $20 each at Kate Spade, San Francisco, 415.216.0880. Stencil by Calvin Klein Home, $100 (place setting), at Macy’s, 800.294.7978. Cana by Oscar de la Renta, $120 (place setting) at Gumps, 800.882.8055. Donna Karan Lotus, $160–625, DKNY Striped Bloom, $50–$415 at Macy’s, 800.456.2297. Otello Meridien by Armani Casa, left or right side, $5,295—$7,355 (depending on fabric), at Limn, 415.543.5466.

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5/10/05 2:20:37 PM

FYI PERFORMING ARTS

THE PLAY’S THE THING Young thespians are having so much fun they don’t even notice they’re getting an education BY SAMANTHA SCHOECH Summer students at Marin Shakespeare Company

leanor and Suzy both want to be actresses when they grow up. They are in sixth and eighth grade, respective-

ly, and both of them are enrolled in Acting II

at the Marin Theatre Company (MTC). Suzy is also in chorus at her Mill Valley school and plans to attend the MTC theater camp this summer for the second time. When asked peals to them, the girls give the same answer. “It’s fun.” “You get to pretend to be someone else and put yourself in different situations,” Suzy adds. It is always possible that Suzy or Eleanor will one day make it big. If they do, perhaps they will remember to thank the Marin Theatre Company when they accept their Oscars. But that’s not what concerns their acting teacher, Sam Misner. “If there’s nothing else I teach them aside from that it’s OK to be goofy and that they don’t have to wor-

PHOTO COURTESY O F M A R I N S H A K E S P E A R E CO M PA N Y

what it is about theater and acting that ap-

MARIN SUMMER THEATER CAMPS FOR CHILDREN AND TEENS All summer camp sessions at the Marin

and plays are explored through improvi-

throughout the academic year, has a

Theatre Company culminate with a fully

sation, theater games, character devel-

Drama and Tennis Camp at Dominican

produced play. Mornings are divided into

opment, and performance. This summer,

University for fourth through ninth grad-

classes in acting, movement, and voice;

for the first time, the company is also

ers. Students use improv, scene study,

afternoons are reserved for rehearsal.

offering a Tennis/Drama camp for ages

and a tool called “stand and deliver” to

Need-based scholarships are available.

8 to 18, at the Marin Tennis Club and Forest

develop their skills. Each camp day ends

415.388.5200, ext. 310, marintheatre.org

Meadows Amphitheatre. 415.499.4487,

with a cabaret performance. Need-based

marinshakespeare.org

scholarships are available. For infor-

The Marin Shakespeare Company has summer programs for children ages

The Vector Theater Company, which

5 through 18. Shakespeare’s characters

offers theater-in-the-schools programs

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mation call 415.609.3318, or log on to vectortheater.org.

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12:28:19 PM

s p e c i a l t y

p e t

b o u t i q u e

ry about being cool, then I’m doing my job,” he says as his preteen students gather in groups to gossip before class. From the looks of it, he’s succeeded. It’s a Thursday night and seven students ages 11 to 14 are exploring the possibilities of their facial muscles. They scrunch up their noses and then stick out their tongues. They frown and smile and then bug out their eyes in surprise. None of them looks remotely cool. But they do look like they

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Teacher Association, “the imagined and

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enacted world of theater is one of the primary ways children learn about life: about actions and consequences, about customs and beliefs, about others and themselves.” In other words, pretending to be someone else is not only fun, it’s a developmental and educational tool that helps students navigate today’s complex world. Studies are nearly unanimous in concluding that arts education—and theater arts in partic-

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cial skills, and critical thinking.

– Food and Wine Magazine

Not that the kids in Acting II are noticing this. They are too engrossed in the

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the action while two other students mime

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chores such as folding the laundry and set-

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ting the table. As they play, they giggle, space out occasionally, and succumb to bouts of self-consciousness; they are middle-school students, after all. But they also have moments of focus, and every once in a while, one of them really nails it and manages for a brief moment to fully become someone else. M A R I N J U N E / J U LY 2 0 0 5

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A spacious enclosed pool area features a retractable roof.

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The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay So near, yet so far away

BY JIM & NIKKI WOOD

that outstanding bedding. Put that together with a stunning ocean-bluff location; Navio, the resort’s signature restaurant; 24-hour room service; an executive business

Left: The Ritz-Carlton,

center; and the aforementioned opportunities for “phys-

Half Moon Bay is set on a

ical expression,” and The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay

dramatic promontory above

certainly qualifies as one of the Bay Area’s best getaway

the crashing surf. Its inland

destinations.

borders consist of two 18-hole

Yet beware: Just past the coastal town of Half Moon

golf courses.

Bay, the subtle entrance to the resort is easy to miss. We drove past it and realized our mistake only after driv-

Below: Chairs facing The

ing a few scenic miles south on Highway 1. However,

Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay’s

from the moment we pulled up to the porte cochere and

18th hole are also arranged

here must be something about the bedsheets

were greeted by The Ritz-Carlton staff, we knew we’d

to enjoy the sun setting over

at The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay that brings

entered a very special environment. Soon we learned

the Paciﬁc.

guests back time after time. Seasoned travelers

somehow know it when a property makes the investment to provide guests with 300-thread-count Egyptian cotton linens for the best possible sleep. And at The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay there’s plenty to do that will contribute to—and call for—a sound night’s sleep. This AAA Five Diamond resort, conveniently located a mere hour’s drive south of Marin County on the coast, is ideal for golf (two 18-hole championship courses), tennis (six lighted courts), swimming (a spa-

PHOTOS : CO URTE SY O F THE RITZ-CA RLTON

cious, enclosed pool with retractable roof), and general working out (a fully equipped 1,750-square-foot fitness center plus a heated aerobics and yoga room). If that’s not enough, there’s a secluded beach perfect for strolling beside the surf. In fact, long walks on the beach were our preferred form of exercise during a recent Ritz-Carlton weekend. The rooms themselves scored very high according to our list of priorities: windows that open to fresh air and sounds of crashing waves, no ambient light shining in at night, a spacious marble bathroom, and, lest we forget,

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that the entire staff is briefed daily and given updates as to activities, occupancy, and special guest needs, along with an inspirational quote for the day—sometimes from a success story involving a hotel employee. It makes a difference. We felt it throughout our threeday stay. Special events at The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay are numerous. There’s an extensive lineup of food and wine classes for adults and a Ritz Kid Summer camp for children. A “Classics by the Sea” car show is scheduled for Sunday, July 31, and a series of “Smooth Jazz KKSF Concerts on the Coast” is planned for July 4 and September 5, starting at 4 p.m. Other activities include sunset hikes, tide pooling, yoga classes, and sea kayaking. One excursion we especially enjoyed was a trip to nearby Pescadero to visit Harley Farms, which produces some of the world’s finest goat cheese. Speaking of sensational tastes, another attraction not to be missed is the restaurant Navio. Less than a year ago, executive chef Xavier Salomon received the coveted title of French Master Chef, and it is he who oversees all dining experiences in the hotel. Navio, Portuguese for “ship,” is designed to resemble a sailing vessel honoring the adventuresome Portuguese whalers from the Azores who settled in Half Moon Bay in the mid-1800s. The expansive open kitchen, visible from almost all the dining room tables, provides a captivating focal counterpoint to the incredible ocean view. Every night the exciting tasting menu changes, and for $1,000 a “chef’s table” can be reserved for up to 10 people, with a feast prepared especially for them. Room rates at The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay range from $225 for a Sunday-throughThursday stay at the Guest Houses (separate from the main building) on up to $990 for an Executive Suite with ocean view and access to the Club Lounge, with many rate and room options in between. For more detailed information, call 650.712.7000 or log on to www. ritzcarlton.com.

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P L AY

Friday night sail

PHOTOS: M A RC IA PEC K

The Friday Night Racing Series has decorated the bay with colorful spinnakers and personalities for more than 50 years. BY MIMI TOWLE

IT ’S 6 P.M. ON FRIDAY and Michael

Francisco, Phil Perkins is late. He quickly

Shenanigans, are preparing for the 6:30 blast

Moradzadeh looks out the window of the

takes off the boom cover as he eyes the tell-

that announces the start of the first race in

Corinthian Yacht Club; it’s deceptively calm.

tales fluttering on the shrouds of Goodtimin’,

the Friday Night or “Beer Can” Race Series at

He checks his shotgun, and puts it down. In

the 35-foot J 105 he shares with his broth-

the Corinthian Yacht Club.

Sausalito, Hank Easom, a retired boatbuild-

ers. These folks, along with the skippers and

“Casual club races are a great introduc-

er, steps onto his eight-meter beauty, Yucca,

crew members of sailboats with names like

tion to big boat racing, as well as an outlet

and surveys his crew. Across the bay in San

Psycho Puppy, Irresponsible, Hoist a Few, and

for veteran competitors,” says Moradzadeh,

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All fish we sell comes to us whole, fresh off a boat that it jumps into. It then fillets itself into the delectable portions you see on ice in our store.*

PH OTO : R O B MO ORE / LAT IT UD E 3 8

Please note: No nets were harmed in the landing of this Tuna. “It’s just about having fun. Anyone who goes out to be competitive at the Friday night races is missing the point.” the former race director and now rear com-

just about having fun,” says Peter Scott, a 30-

modore at the CYC. According to the Yacht

year veteran of the series and a San Francisco

Racing Association of San Francisco Bay,

Yacht Club alum. “Anyone who goes out to be

there are 840 races scheduled around the bay

competitive at the Friday night races is miss-

for 2005, each with an average of 40 entries,

ing the point.”

which means that on any given day, we’ve got

But winning is really the point of every

hundreds of enthusiasts zigzagging toward a

race, right? No matter, it’s hard to be com-

bobbing weather mark. During the summer,

petitive in this series, for several reasons:

*Okay, the second part of this statement isn’t entirely accurate. In truth, Bryan is the first one on Pier 45 early every morning and personally eyeballs the catch before selecting his own “best of show” (every last one of which met the end of their line at the end of a line). He then heads back over the Golden Gate Bridge to turn loose the only machine allowed near the fish – our resident fillet maestro. His name is Olman. Olman is the man.

one can find a local race other nights of the

varying boat sizes, new and often untrained

week: Tuesdays at the Sausalito Yacht Club,

crew members, and the course itself. The

Wednesdays at the St. Francis. But while there

beginning and end of the race takes place

are other Friday night races, for most Marin

in Raccoon Straits, the area between Angel

Come buy some.

in the series ever since learning how to sail

sailors, this night belongs to the Corinthian, where racers from everywhere are welcome. Take the Perkins brothers, Chris, Phil, and Jon, who usually sail out of San Francisco’s St. Francis Yacht Club. They have participated

next door to the CYC, at the San Francisco Yacht Club’s junior program. They compete on a national level, but still enjoy the Friday night races. “It’s a great way to end the week, and it provides an opportunity to introduce friends and family to sailing in a low-key,

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comfortable environment,” says Phil. And most important, “it’s the best chance of getting my wife, Eileen, to sail with me.” This camaraderie seems to be the motivation for most if not all of the participants. “It’s

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Island and Tiburon, a notoriously difficult route. Churning tides, fickle winds, and rocks that lie just below the surface make this passage “a wild card,” notes Rob Moore, one of Easom’s regular crew members. “Whoever can get to the wind first wins; it’s like the rich get richer.” And the poor, well, they just drift into the rocks. How does a skipper know if he or she is ready to compete? “That’s where the race course comes in,” Moradzadeh explains. After one race, a skipper will know for sure if he or she should continue. Speaking of the course, setting it is always a tactical challenge. Will it be windy? Calm? “Our larger boats can handle almost anything,” he adds, “but our smallest require consideration, to make sure we don’t send them on the moral equivalent of the Transpac.” He also notes that they need to be separated properly to protect the smaller Rhodes 19s from the 50-footers; otherwise, it’s like Saint Bernards going out for a romp among beagles. “Occasionally, we do have an accident out there,” Moradzadeh says, “and it’s usually because a skipper isn’t comfortable enough with his boat to be maneuvering so close to other boats, or you get the skilled sailors who are too aggressive for the median skill level.” Fortunately, “there

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hasn’t been anything too serious and these guys get weeded out of the food chain soon enough.”

Relaxing indoor and outdoor massages Indulging body treatments

One of the best parts of the series is that you don’t have to be on a boat to enjoy it.

Beautifying facials

The deck at Sam’s Anchor Café, Guaymas, or Servino, as well as Shoreline Park along the Tiburon bayfront, offer great vantage points.

Spa treatments using Health Spa Napa

The goal of the race committee is to get all

Valley’s natural products

the boats through the finish line before sunset, which is quite considerate to those of us who consider sailing a spectator sport. What could be a better ending to a week in paradise than a glass of wine as you watch the sunset and a fleet of crazed sailors racing to the finish line? See you next Friday! If you are interested in learning more about Friday night races, contact the Corinthian Yacht Club at 425.435.4771 or log on to the

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website: cyc.org.

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LOOKING BACK

The October 28, 1945 launching of the tanker Mission San Francisco represented the last vessel to slide down a Marinship way.

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Marinship in Sausalito World War II yard employed 20,000, built 93 vessels

BY JIM WOOD

n the lobby of an office building

these; it’s Marinship (a shortening of Marin

twice-a-month walking tours of the area (see

near Mollie Stone’s in Sausalito hang

Shipbuilding Division of the W. A. Bechtel

related sidebar), “and a few still stand in

two oversize historical photos. One

Company), a World War II Sausalito shipyard

Richardson’s Bay, while several are poking up

shows an expansive marsh area eas-

where 20,000 people built 93 oceangoing ves-

the asphalt in waterfront parking lots.” Pullin,

ily recognized as Richardson’s Bay;

sels—an average of one every 13 days—over

who as an 18-year-old worked at Marinship,

a span of three and a half years.

recalls a prevailing attitude that the war

the photo is dated March 1942. The second photo was taken 15 months later, in July of 1943; it shows the same area. Only now it’s

Then in 1946, fast as it appeared, Marinship vanished—almost.

would only last three years. “So structures were built to last that long,” he explains. Yet

a bustling shipyard with cranes reaching sky-

“There were 26,000 pilings driven into the

60 years later, several buildings, including the

ward, reminiscent of Brooklyn, Oakland, or

landfill to support Marinship structures,” re-

enormous structure housing the U.S. Army

World War II San Francisco. But it’s none of

calls 80-year-old John Pullin, who conducts

Corps of Engineers’ famous Bay Model, are

PH OTO: SAU SALITO H ISTORICAL SOCI ET Y

recalling what it was like John Pullin remembers how his involvement

Hyster once backed over a lady,” he says,

Among her associates were two men who

started. “I saw a newspaper notice about a

that “engineers invented the ‘beep-beep’

“hung by ropes and painted the ship’s name

walking tour of Sausalito’s waterfront, and

sound that trucks and tractors make when

and a portrait of Uncle Sam or a president

I told my wife, ‘Maybe they’ll mention where

they back up.” Pullin’s tours start at noon

on its bow.” When the war ended, the men

I worked.’” One day he went on the tour,

from the Bay Model (2100 Bridgeway,

presented her with a paint bucket they’d

and “the leader talked about the town’s old-

Sausalito), last 90 minutes (schedules

artistically decorated. “I still have that silly

en days,” Pullin, now 80, recalls. “But people

change; call 415.332.3871 for details), and

old bucket,” she says. And like John Pullin,

asked mostly about Marinship during the war.”

include, among other things, insights into

she’s still in the same home she lived in at

So, little by little, drawing on his experiences,

the founding of Marin City, how the ship-

the time, a house she and husband “Doc”

Pullin provided answers. Two weeks later, with

ways operated, and how much the tankers

Doyle, a Marinship welder, bought in 1941.

everyone’s blessing, he was the tour’s leader.

weighed, both empty and ﬁlled to capacity.

“It’s in Mill Valley; we paid $5,000 for it,”

Then he led again. And again. Seven years lat-

Today Pullin lives in San Francisco, in the

she adds with a satisﬁed smile.

er he’s still leading tours. Only now they’re ti-

same Colonial his family occupied when he

tled “Marinship Historical Walking Tours.”

worked at Marinship.

Having worked at Marinship as an 18-

Another local personality who was part

year-old, Pullin clearly has the inside view;

of the World War II Marinship scene is

there isn’t much about the place he doesn’t

Josephine “Jo” Doyle, now the service de-

know. “The base pay was $1.20 an hour,”

partment’s greeter at Marin Honda in Corte

he remembers. “Thirty-five percent of the

Madera. At Marinship, “I was secretary to

welders were women.” And it was “after a

Walter Mazza, the paint ‘super,’” she recalls.

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In this 1943 photo, Bridgeway divides the rolling hills of north Sausalito from Marinship. Marin City, built to house Marinship workers, is in the photo’s upper right.

still standing. “It was Marinship’s main warehouse,” says Pullin of the Bay Model building. Other structures remaining include the huge barrel-roofed Industrial Center Building, with West Marine as its anchor tenant, and the 3030 Bridgeway office building at Gate 5 Road and Bridgeway. A thumbnail history of Marinship indicates the keel of its first Liberty cargo ship, the William A. Richardson, was laid a mere 90 days after ground was broken on the entire project. Over the next six months, Marinship assembled 14 more 441-foot Liberty ships for the U.S. Maritime Commission. Then word from Washington stipulated the entire yard had to convert ASAP to build 525-foot oil tankers, desperately needed in both the Atlantic and Pacific theaters of war. And in 1943, according to Charles Wollenberg’s in-

Call today for a free estimate. 415.566.6800 www.cer tapro.com

Now In Marin 60

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formative booklet Marinship at War, “the commission’s program produced nearly 50 percent more carrying capacity than had existed in the entire U.S. Merchant Marine in 1941.” At Sausalito’s Marinship, one tanker, the S.S. Huntington Hills, was completed in 33 days, nearly twice as fast as any comparable tanker of its day. Marinship went on to construct another 61 tankers, plus 16 oceangoing oilers, among them the yard’s flagship, the U.S.S. Tamalpais, which was in Tokyo Bay for the Japanese surrender, and the Mission San Francisco, which on October 28, 1945, was the last tanker to slide down a Marinship way. Prior to that, in June of 1945, the yard’s dwindling shipbuilding business was momentarily revived with lucrative contracts to construct huge barges for the anticipated invasion of Japan. But in August, the Japanese surrendered and nearly half a billion dollars in Marinship’s contracts were canceled. In May of 1946, the Bechtel Corporation decided to get out of the shipbuilding business. Soon the hustle-bustle—or as some would say the glory—of building and launching ship after ship for the war effort faded from the Sausalito shoreline. “Everyone felt there was a piece of them in the ships as they went down the slide,” cafeteria worker Grace Pastori is quoted on a placard in the Marinship Museum inside the Bay Model. “Each launching was another punch for Uncle Sam.” One who also worked there is Mill Valley’s Jo Doyle. “My husband and I were both at Marinship,” she says. “He was a welder known as ‘Doc’ Doyle; I was a secretary known as ‘Pini,’ based on my maiden name of Brunini.” Doyle recalls the era as a time when “everyone felt they had to do something for the war effort,” and, as a result, “people worked together—just to get the job done.” Arguably, it was a time when the American people were united as never before, and never since. Assuming that’s so, Marinship in Sausalito deserves a revered spot not only in the history of Marin County, but in American history as well. Sausalito historian Phil Frank contributed to this story.

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HOME DESIGN

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Hillside Dream

PH OTOS: DAVID D UNCANLIVING STON.COM

Living in the shadow of Mount Tam

STORY JIM WOOD PHOTOS DAVID LIVINGSTON

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“We live in our living room, and dine in our dining room.”

ranch house we eventually tore down and ‘recycled.’

With that simple edict, David and Dianna Overmyer set

That’s when we began our planning process, after we

out to design the home of their dreams on a hillside in

knew the sun and wind patterns and which views we

Below: A protected court-

Kent Woodlands, in the shadow of—and with inspira-

enjoyed the most.”

yard offers a carefree—and

tion from—Mount Tamalpais.

Working with San Francisco architect Steven House,

“David and I know how we live,” says Dianna, “how

of House + House Architecture, with Amena Hajjar as

Below right: Sundeck over-

we entertain, cook, relax, and work as a family.” But

project manager, the Overmyers broke ground in May of

looking Baltimore Canyon

did they know how their site would work for a 4,000-

2001, one month after adopting their twin girls, Jordan

adjacent to the master bed-

square-foot contemporary home that would likely be

and Jocelyn, from China. Following 18 months of liv-

room suite. Right: Sounds

the place to shelter and nourish their family far into the

ing in a two-bedroom apartment, the family moved

of a small waterfall bring

future? “Actually, yes,” answers David. “For 18 months

into their spectacular new home on Dianna’s birthday,

serenity to the courtyard.

we lived on the site, in a rather neglected sixties-style

November 1, 2002.

PH OTO: BARBARA RIES

beautiful—place to play.

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P H OTO : B A R B A RA R I E S

Above: The Overmyers

To take advantage of the site’s limited flat land, the

accounted for how their

home is pushed to the edge of the slope, and wrapped

home would shelter and

around a courtyard garden that faces an upper slope.

nourish their family far into

The home itself is composed of two intersecting wings—

the future. Right: Laminated

one for activity, the other for resting and sleeping—an-

pine beams dramatically

chored by a tower whose inverted, butterfly roof art-

accent the living areas.

fully frames a view of the peak of Mount Tam. “Our home pays homage to Mount Tam,” says Dianna. “It has a curved metal roof, which starts on the outer wall at nine feet and arcs toward the courtyard wall at 16 feet, creating a cathedral effect.” Inside, the arc is accented with curved, laminated pine beams; pendant light fixtures run the length of the two hallways and, with their patterned markings, seem to mimic the knots of the beams. “Dianna, working with Amena Hajjar, selected all of the fixtures,” David adds, “not only the lighting, but the plumbing and hardware, and their patience and good taste certainly shows.” The Overmyers didn’t want their new home to stand out in its mountain setting as (in their words) “the Big White House on the Hill.” So, working with their architect, they selected an exterior palette to blend in with the

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natural environment: red the color of manzanita bark, a green the tone of lichen, and a brown to match the trunks of nearby pines and redwoods. As for the courtyard in back, Dianna explains, “it’s both visually and literally a protection from the winds of the world outside.” By day it’s a level, hard-surface playing area for Jordan and Jocelyn and their bikes and scooters; at night, when the girls are asleep, it’s a restful spot for David and Dianna to kick back and listen to the soothing sounds of a fountain and waterfall, or take a few steps up the slope and relax in a hot tub with its moonlit view of surrounding canyons and mountainsides. Did their new home turn out as the Overmyers an-

after we’d been living in a two-bedroom apartment for 18 months, it felt awfully big. But once the furniture was arranged, we didn’t want to leave.” Adds Dianna, “We’ve been here now for two and a half years, and we

PH OTO: BARBARA RIES

still feel the same way.” MM

P H OTO : B A R B A RA R I E S

ticipated and planned? “Absolutely,” David says. “At first,

Top: Art reﬂects the owners’ travels. Above: Overmyer children enjoy the breakfast nook. Left: Unique spaces for the kitchen, dining room, and living room function as the heart of the home. Right: Dining room is close to the kitchen and takes advantage of courtyard views.

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“We live in our living room and dine in our dining room. David and I know how we live, how we entertain, cook, relax, and work as a family.” —Dianna Overmyer

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THINK

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Meeting OF THE Minds STORY SAMANTHA SCHOECH PHOTOS THERESA VARGO

For more than 20 years Jack Kornﬁeld and Spirit Rock have been infusing the Buddhist values of compassion and mindfulness into modern Marin life

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Jack Kornﬁeld in the Gratitude Pavillion at Spirit Rock

HEN I ARRIVE AT SPIRIT

people settling down. Monday night class is about to be-

Rock Meditation Center in

gin. The woman to my right turns to me grinning and

Woodacre for the Monday

simply says, “Jack.”

night class I pass a road

She is referring to Jack Kornfield, cofounder of Spirit

sign that says “Yield to the

Rock Meditation Center, and best-selling author of A

Present” and am greeted with a deep bow by the man

Path with Heart and After the Ecstasy, the Laundry. He

at the gate.

has been leading a Monday night meditation group in

In the community hall I claim a cushion from the

Marin County for more than 20 years, since the days

pile in the back of the room and stake out a place on the

when Spirit Rock was populated only by cows, deer, and

floor near a small stage set with two Buddha statues, a

the occasional flock of wild turkeys. And he is very pop-

gong, and a plain, straight-backed chair. A thin, musta-

ular. Although there are many teachers at Spirit Rock,

chioed man dressed in khakis and a drab shirt sits on

the Monday night class is most crowded when Jack

the stage going over his notes.

Kornfield is leading it. Executive director Evan Kavanagh

Over the next half hour the room fills. People sip tea

says, “His personality is not the center of Spirit Rock.”

and munch the cookies for sale in the lobby. New age

That may be true, but his teaching style, which is fun-

music jangles softly over the speakers and people in an

ny, self-effacing, and very gentle, is at the core of what

array of comfortable clothes—sweat pants, fleece jack-

many people like about the center.

ets, T-shirts that say “Be Present”—stretch their necks, or chat, or read silently while they wait.

070-077_SpiritRock.indd

The evening begins with 35 minutes of silent meditation, punctuated only by the soothing sound of

When the man on the stage rings the gong three

Kornfield’s voice offering instruction: find a comfortable

times the room briefly erupts with the sound of 250

way to sit, close your eyes, soften your face, open your

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Getting Started at Spirit Rock It is six weeks into a two-month silent

explains that it was important to the

You Don’t Look Buddhist and It’s Easier

meditation retreat at Spirit Rock, and

center’s founders that “children’s laugh-

Than You Think); Thursday morning wom-

the participants are sprinkled out across

ter would be one of the things you heard

en’s classes; and a singles sangha event

the landscape on an astonishingly beau-

when you were on retreat.”

the last Friday evening of every month.

tiful spring day, eating their lunches.

To keep Spirit Rock connected to the

On July 16, Spirit Rock is celebrating

They are perched cross-legged on rocks

day-to-day lives of people in the Bay Area,

Jack Kornﬁeld’s 60th birthday. This ben-

and benches overlooking a small stream.

there are many different classes, retreats,

efit for the center’s scholarship fund will

Some are seated in the grass on the hills

and daylong events. Some are for begin-

include meditation, reminiscing, walk-

above the dining hall. Birds chirp, the

ners, others for advanced students. There

ing, and storytelling with Jack Kornfield,

brook babbles, bees buzz, but the 85

are retreats for lawyers, people of color,

Joseph Goldstein, Sharon Salzberg, Sylvia

retreatants, known by the Spirit Rock

teens, men, women, gays and lesbians,

Boorstein, James Baraz, Anna Douglas,

staff as “the yogis,” are silent. Walking

and families.

Wes Nisker, and others. Donations are on

among them is like moving through a liv-

There are the well-known Monday

a pay-what-you-can basis.

ing tableau, or a very pleasant and pas-

night classes led by Jack Kornﬁeld and a

toral zombie movie.

revolving roster of teachers; Wednesday

For more ongoing and special pro-

But all is not serious and silent at Spirit

morning classes with Sylvia Boorstein (au-

gram information call 415.488.0164 or visit

Rock. Executive Director Evan Kavanagh

thor of many books including That’s Funny,

spiritrock.org. —SS

The upper retreat hall at Spirit Rock

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heart, pay attention to your breath.

culture.’” Thirty years later, this concept is very much

After a short break, it is time for Kornfield’s talk. He

alive at Spirit Rock. “The practices of mindfulness are

quotes Rumi, Rilke, Anne Lamott, and a rabbi friend of

the same [as in traditional Asian forms of Buddhist

his. It’s Buddhism 101, a basic lesson in suffering and

practice]. The practices of generosity and compassion-

freedom from suffering, of letting go and practicing

ate action are identical. But the outer form is much

compassion. He speaks of blessings: the blessing of lov-

more American,” says Kornfield.

ing a child or a spouse, of friendship, of those moments

This uniquely American form can be seen in the

when we suddenly feel perfectly right in the world. The

blending of contemporary Western psychology with

room is loving it. People laugh and nod. When he says

Eastern spiritual thought. Of the 19 or so regular teach-

something particularly moving, there is a collective

ers at Spirit Rock, most of them have a degree or prac-

groan of recognition.

tice in psychology or psychiatry. Jack Kornfield earned

Thirty-five years ago, when Jack Kornfield returned

his Ph.D. in clinical psychology shortly after returning

from Ajahn Chah’s forest monastery in Thailand, where

from Thailand. “I realized very early on that Eastern

he had been living as a monk for three years, places

psychology is really good at certain areas,” he says, “but

like Spirit Rock didn’t exist. Terms like meditation and

didn’t attend as well to things like intimate relationships

nirvana and awakened mind were not yet part of the

and many other aspects of lay life.”

American vernacular. Most people had never heard of

By attending to the concerns of lay life, Spirit Rock

the Dalai Lama. “There were only a handful of books [on

aims to make a deep spiritual practice feasible for the

Buddhism] available in English that were readable—six

average busy American with kids, a job, and a daily com-

books and you were kind of done,” says Kornfield, smil-

mute. “Even though the form seems more casual than

Although there are many teachers at Spirit Rock, the Monday night class is most crowded when Jack Kornﬁeld is leading it.

ing. It was the early seventies and the counterculture was in full swing, but Buddhism and other Asian spiritual practices were still the domain of a few experimenters and hippie types. When Kornfield and fellow meditation students Joseph Goldstein and Sharon Salzberg founded the Insight Meditation Society in Massachusetts in 1975, they were at the forefront of what has become a distinctly American Buddhist tradition. “Unlike other Buddhist traditions that were beginning to put down roots in the United States at the time, this was founded and led by Americans rather than lamas from Tibet or Zen masters from Japan,” Kornfield explains. “Our teachers from Thailand and Burma came and visited us and taught at our centers and blessed us and then went home and said, ‘You must teach in a way that suits this

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people’s ideas about what meditation should be like,

solutely have flourished in another place,” he also notes

people’s experiences are as deep and profound, as for-

that “compassion, mindful attention, and seeking peace

mative and enlightening here as in any of the Buddhist

both inwardly and in the world is a big part of the con-

temples where I’ve trained in Asia,” says Kornfield, add-

sciousness of the people of Marin, whether it is through

ing with a smile, “so, it works.”

Spirit Rock, their Christian faith, or visionary politi-

Jack Kornfield and his wife, Liana, moved to Marin

cal values.” As Kavanagh says of Marin County, “If you

from the East Coast in the early eighties for the same

are predisposed toward Buddhism, you are in the right

reason so many others did: They were enamored of

place.” And the right time.

its beauty. Kornfield continued teaching, and in 1984

This summer, Jack Kornfield is turning 60, Spirit

the first Monday night meditation group began. In

Rock is enjoying its 15th year, and books on Buddhism

1988, shortly after Kornfield and his family moved to

have become a publishing industry. Tens of thousands of

Woodacre, 412 acres of pristine West Marin land just off

individuals participate in programs at Spirit Rock each

Sir Francis Drake owned by the Nature Conservancy, be-

year (see sidebar on page 74). There are still some hip-

came available. “We had been looking all over Northern

pie types among them, but mostly you couldn’t tell the

California for a site for a center for five years at that

Monday night class participants from the average crowd

point and had given up,” Kornfield says. They purchased

at the farmers’ market. “We are in the great tradition of

the exquisite property for $950,000, enabling the Nature

the American melting pot,” Kavanagh says. What was

Conservancy to buy 50,000 acres of South American

once foreign is now thoroughly American.

rain forest. “So it all happened as it was supposed to,

This is evident at the end of Monday night class.

apparently,” Kornfield says. By 1990, the first buildings

As people head back to their cars to reenter their busy

were completed and Spirit Rock Meditation Center was

lives, they take a little bit of Spirit Rock with them.

on its way to becoming a magnet for Buddhists and spir-

Conversations are about their kids, the movies they’ve

itual seekers from around the world.

seen recently, how hectic work is getting. But they are

Marin, it turns out, was a fortuitous location. Although Kornfield contends that “Spirit Rock could ab-

077

of generosity and compassionate action are identical to traditional Buddhism. But the outer form is much more American.”

also about meditation, mindfulness, and that Rumi quote they now wish they could remember. MM

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JOURNEY

As you pedal through hill towns and lush valleys, a wild corner of Italy unfolds. The only thing missing is the tourists. 78

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STORY & PHOTOS BEN DAVIDSON

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Cìvita, a tiny hill town near Orvieto, sits dramatically on a crumbling mount of volcanic tufa.

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“I HAVE NEVER SEEN ANYTHING MORE PLEASING,” said St. Francis of Assisi of his native Umbria back in the 13th century. After a weeklong exploration of this region in the north end of the Italian peninsula, I couldn’t agree more with the good saint. Riding between towns on a Ferrari-red bicycle, taking part in a luxury Backroads cycling tour, I discovered a part of Italy that was a feast for the body and the senses, an indulgent dip into what some call “the next Tuscany”—minus the crowds. Cradled by the rugged Apennine Mountains and crossed by the Tiber River, Umbria is dotted with lakes and crowned with isolated castles, a land emanating an enchanting wildness in its woodsy hills and lush green valleys. Like Tuscany to the west, it has medieval hill towns, classic art and architecture, and pleasures for the palate— porcini mushrooms, truffles, and classic wines.

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Umbertide

Perugia

Assisi

Orvieto

Riding through olive groves to La Badia (left), an exquisitely restored eighth-century abbey and now a luxury hotel just outside Orvieto.

Garden-fresh tomatoes are a staple of Umbrian cuisine (above).

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Like Tuscany to the west, it has medieval hill towns, classic art and architecture, and pleasures for the palate—porcini mushrooms, trufﬂes, and classic wines.

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At the start of our week in Umbria, our group of 14

wild mushrooms, olive paste, and tartufi (truffle) shav-

riders gathered at the Stazione Vittoria Veneto train sta-

ings, followed by assorted game and fowl grilled over

tion in Perugia, an ancient university town and Umbria’s

sweetly scented chestnut branches, and finished with

regional capital. We received our touring bikes almost

a caffe corretto (espresso with grappa) and a nocciola

immediately and embarked on a nine-mile introducto-

(hazelnut) gelato.

ry spin through the Umbrian countryside, with reward-

That night, I stayed in one of the castle’s turret rooms,

ing climbs, winding descents, cobbled streets, and quiet

complete with a suit of armor. Mother Nature added dra-

country lanes.

ma with an explosive thunderstorm that lasted for hours.

That evening we relaxed in the 15th-century

By morning, the weather had cleared, and we set out for

Castello dell’Oscano, just outside Perugia, where we en-

our first long ride: 39 miles north to Umbertide, an an-

joyed our first of many fine Umbrian meals. This one

cient trade center. We strolled around town, visited the

started with umbrici—long, thick pasta topped with

turreted Rocca, an impressive work of medieval military

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architecture, and toured the Chiesa di Santa Maria della

Torgiano Riserva. Along the way we came to outstand-

(Left) An alfresco picnic in

Reggia, a 16th-century octagonal church.

ing views of lovely Lago Trasimeno, one of Italy’s larg-

Prodo, a small village located

After a long, winding climb, we reached the hilltop

est lakes. It was here in 217 B.C. that the Romans suf-

in Tiber Regional Park.

town of Montone, with its resplendent views of the ver-

fered a disastrous defeat at the hands of Hannibal’s

dant Tiber River valley and surrounding mountains. We

Carthaginian army. Arriving at our destination, the

(Above) Getting ready for a

returned mid-afternoon to our hotel, wrapped by gar-

village of Torgiano, we toured the Lungarotti Wine

morning ride in the medieval

dens and forest.

Museum, housed in a 16th-century mansion, and en-

town of Todi.

By the third morning we began to hit our stride, our legs complaining less during long climbs. The day’s

joyed wine tasting after settling into the cozy Hotel Le Tre Vaselle.

route was an easy 20-mile ride, past some of the lush

Following a hearty breakfast, we set out for another

vineyards that produce Umbria’s renowned Torre di

39-mile ride, stopping first in Deruta to tour one of its

Giano white wines and the densely fruity Ribesco di

ceramics factories specializing in majolica, a centuries-

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We rode to Assisi, rich with Italian pre-Renaissance art, including frescoes by Giotto in the cathedral’s basilica, which we toured with a Franciscan monk as our guide.

old style that combines deep, rich colors with designs of fruit, foliage, and scrolls. The days rolled on, with trips to the hill towns of Bettona, Bevagna, and the lively, art-filled Spoleto. On a layover day, we rode to Assisi, overflowing with Italian pre-Renaissance art, including frescoes by Giotto in the cathedral’s basilica, which we toured with a Franciscan monk as our guide. We continued on to the ancient city of Orvieto, originally inhabited by Bronze and Iron Age tribes and famed for its Orvieto Classico wines and a magnificent duomo (cathedral). Here, we cycled to our hotel, La Badia, an exquisitely restored eighth-century abbey, reputedly the oldest hotel in Italy. During our final meal of the trip, a supper of fire-roasted game in the hotel’s beamed dining room, our waiter accidentally dropped a very nice bottle of Brunello di Montalcino. It shattered, tragically, on the stone floor, but added an ethereal, heavenly scent to the room, creating just the right ambience to end our week in this untrampled corner of Italy. MM

ROLLING THROUGH UMBRIA

Many tour operators offer cycling tours in Umbria. These three companies schedule several trips a year; all feature excellent service, support, and accommodations. Prices are per person, double occupancy (not including airfare). Backroads Six-day, ﬁve-night luxury inn trip, $2,998. 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710, 800.462.2848 or 510.527.1555, backroads.com Ciclismo Classico Ten-day, nine-night tour of southern Tuscany and Umbria, $3,350 (bike rental $180). 30 Marathon St., Arlington, MA 02474, 800.866.7314, ciclismoclassico.com Trek Travel Six-day, ﬁve-night luxury inn trip, The centuries-old craft of majolica pottery

$2,975. 801 W. Madison St., Waterloo, WI

is practiced in Deruta.

53594, 866.464.8735, trektravel.com

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Fresh pecorino cheese is among the many culinary delights found in Umbria.

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LIFE

DIPSEA 100 C E L E B RAT E S STORY AUSTIN MURPHY

IT MAY BE THE COUNTRY’S SECOND-OLDEST footrace,

boggling feat of longevity. It is also a measure of the deep

eight years younger than the Boston Marathon. But when

and abiding pull this race exerts on those who run it.

it comes to natural beauty, distilled suffering, and true

EMMA REIMANN

character(s), the Dipsea is second to none. Begun in 1905 by members of San Francisco’s venerable

Before troglodytes in blazers decreed in 1928 that women

Olympic Club, the 7.1-mile race from Mill Valley to Stinson

be banned from racing distances longer than 200 meters—

Beach turns 100 this year. On the morning of June 12, 1,500

why, the tender creatures might swoon from the effort, might

runners will do what Dipsea runners have done for a cen-

compromise their reproductive systems!—there were the

tury: labor up the 676 steps near Old Mill Park, then climb

Women’s Dipsea Hikes.

some more before opening up their legs on the descent to

Separate from the men’s Dipsea races (which consistently

Muir Woods. There begins the oppressive climb to Cardiac

drew fewer participants), the hikes were held from 1918 to

Hill, followed by a swift (ideally) downhill run to the ocean.

1922. They were groundbreaking events, possibly “the first

Roots, ruts, steps, and crowds make this event much more

women’s long-distance races in the United States,” according

perilous than the average fun run. It is grueling, gorgeous,

to Barry Spitz’s Dipsea: the Greatest Race (Potrero Meadow

and—this is Marin, after all—a bit wacky. The Dipsea handi-

Publishing, 1993). Despite being called hikes—to elude the

capping system, which awards head-start minutes based on age

Amateur Athletic Association’s ban against women compet-

and gender, has resulted in winners ranging from nine-year-old

ing—they “were bona fide races,” says Spitz.

girls to 70-year-old men.

whose father, William, ran a newsstand on Mill Valley’s Lytton

its legends, including 98-year-old Jack Kirk, who started in

Square. Runner-up in 1919 and ’20, she won the hike in 1921,

every Dipsea from 1930 to 2003. Yes, Kirk’s record is a mind-

getting over the course in a brisk 1:16:15. She cut four min-

086-091_Life_Dipsea.indd

The greatest of the Dipsea hikers was Emma Reimann,

To celebrate the Dipsea’s centennial, we profiled five of

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PHOTO: COURTESY OF DIPSEA , THE GREATEST RACE BY BARRY SPITZ

Emma Reimann took second in the 1920 Women’s Dipsea Hike

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utes off that time the following year, setting a course record for women that would stand for 47 years. Reimann was denied the chance to defend her title: The hikes were discontinued after 1922. Doctors insisted that the race was too strenuous. Church groups found the attire too provocative. Such were the mores of the times, even in Marin. In a brief article headlined “The Dipsea Amazons on the Trail,” the May 15, 1920, Mill Valley Record describes that year’s hikers as “a blithesome group” who “proved for the third straight time that girls can cover the track and enjoy it.” Indeed, a half century before the AAU got its head out of its backside and allowed women to run more than half a lap around the track, the hikers had indeed proved something: that the exclusion of their gender from distance events was based on ignorance and myth. On the eve of the Dipsea centen-

THE DIPSEA TRAIL A hike or a run over the beautiful Dipsea Trail from Mill Valley to Stinson Beach is one of the ﬁnest outdoor experiences Marin County has to offer. The seven miles of sometimes-extreme uphill and downhill guarantee a great workout. The famed Dipsea Race, founded in 1905, celebrates its centennial on Sunday, June 12. But whether you’re racing or hiking, the Dipsea Trail has historical signiﬁcance. It starts in downtown Mill Valley in Lytton Square, which honors Lytton Barber, the town’s first fatality in World War I. Early hikers and runners arrived here via a railroad spur, which opened in 1889, disembarking at a station that now houses the Depot Bookstore and Cafe. From there, you proceed up Throckmorton Avenue (named for Samuel

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088

in southernmost Marin). Cut left through Old Mill Park (here’s where John Reed, who received a Mexican land grant in 1834, built the sawmill that gives Mill Valley its name) and then up the infamous 676 steps. At the top, after a few curves and corners, you enter the former Flying Y Ranch, where today luxury homes line the way. The pavement gives way

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PHOTO CREDITS GO HERE

Tiburon’s Don Pickett won the 1968 Dipsea at age 40.

PH OTO CO U RTESY OF DO N P ICK ET T

Throckmorton, who once owned all of the land

2:37:35 PM

nial, we salute Emma Reimann and her “blithesome,”

He moved to the Bay Area, married, and joined the

pioneering ilk. They weren’t hiking. They were running

Olympic Club, where he sang in the chorus and hung

their asses off.

out in the bar. Disgusted, finally, by his advancing dissolution—“too much gin and cigarettes,” he says—

DON PICKETT

he resumed running in his late thirties, on the club’s

Mr. Dipsea is 77 now, his last competitive race two

25-laps-per-mile track. He first ran the Dipsea in 1965,

years behind him. “I still jog a little bit,” says Don

finishing 71st. . Among the gifts he received for his

Pickett with a rueful smile. “I hate to even use the word

40th birthday, in 1968, were three extra Dipsea head-

jog. But I have to.”

start minutes.

For the second time in his life, it appears that Pickett’s

He won the race, but just barely, passing an 11-year-

running days are at an end. The first time came half a

old boy 20 yards from the tape. “As I turned to comfort

century ago. After running track his freshman year at

him,” says Pickett, “my coach from the Olympic Club

Oregon, Pickett hung up his spikes. The new coach, Bill

shouted, ‘Let him alone!’”

Bowerman, told the kid he had talent. “But I didn’t lis-

Pickett’s most storied display of sportsmanship came

ten,” says Pickett. “It was always a regret that I stopped.”

five years later, when an Australian named Joe Patterson

There is a pause, and he says, “I think I made up

stopped him at a fork in the trail. “He said, ‘Which way, mate?’” recalls Pickett, who could’ve won by sending the

for it.”

100 Years of Beauty—and a Real Beast to dirt and passes One-Mile Tree; you’re now

tiful canyon William Kent gifted to Mount

a seventh of the way to Stinson Beach. After

Tamalpais State Park in 1928, on the day be-

crossing Panoramic Highway at Windy Gap,

fore he died. Next the trail crosses Webb

the Dipsea Trail becomes the gnarly downhill

Creek and joins Steep Ravine Trail. The small

of Hauke Hollow. It then drops down to Muir

pond and dam on your left once stored Stinson

Woods Road and, eventually, a portion of Muir

Beach’s water supply. Now the Dipsea Trail

Woods National Park, which William Kent (as

goes up one ﬁnal slope, dubbed Insult Hill by

in Kentﬁeld) dedicated to the national govern-

1968 Dipsea champion Don Pickett.

ment in 1908.

PHOTO CREDITS GO HERE

BY BARRY SPITZ

Have faith, the end is near. The awaiting long stretch of grassland, part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, is often so

Redwood Creek. Fair warning: Brace yourself

foggy and windswept it’s earned the name the

for a long, unrelenting uphill. The steepest part

Moors. After nearly a mile on the Moors, jump

is Dynamite. Next comes the Hogsback (cat-

down some steps and head right on Highway

tle grazed here into the 1960s, when this was

1. The Dipsea Race concludes with a left on

part of the Brazil Brothers ranch) and views of

Arenal Avenue, which is barred by a fence on

Mount Tamalpais and your ﬁrst glimpse of the

all but race day. After crossing the ﬁnish line,

trail map. As for the return trip, if you haven’t

Paciﬁc. The Dipsea Trail then enters a grove of

runners on June 12 will be met by friends and

arranged a ride back to Mill Valley, Golden

towering redwoods whose frequent fog drip

family at a grassy picnic area. Hikers (allowed

Gate Transit’s number 63 bus (415.455.2000)

gives it the name Rain Forest. Now the trail

on the trail the morning of June 12, but at

operates on weekends, and West Marin

makes a ﬁnal climb to its highest point, 1,360

their own considerable risk) can head to one

Stagecoach (415.526.3239) makes weekday

feet, atop appropriately named Cardiac Hill.

of Stinson’s many restaurants for burgers and

runs between Stinson and Mill Valley.

The coastline vista here is glorious . . . and well

beers. Whatever your classification, you’ve

deserved.

earned your rest—enjoy.

A downward plunge continues for over a

Final thought: If you plan to hike the Dipsea

mile through Steep Ravine, a hauntingly beau-

Trail, best to pack water, sunblock, and a good

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P HOTO: BARBARA RIES

The trail bottoms out as it crosses Frank Valley Road and a narrow wooden bridge over

Barry Spitz is the author of Dipsea, the Greatest Race and the popular hiking guide Tamalpais Trails.

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Above: Shirley Matson

Aussie to the right: “He would never have known the dif-

year later, Matson held off former Olympic marathon-

Middle: Russ Kiernan

ference, and would’ve come in a minute behind me.”

er Gabriele Andersen to win by 30 seconds. Matson’s

Instead, Pickett told Patterson to follow him …. and

Right: Jack Kirk

lost to the Aussie by 11 seconds.

subsequent victories in 2000 and ’01 made her the first woman to win three Dipseas. Then came last year.

Pickett’s Dipsea legacy transcends his ’68 victory,

“Nagging hip and butt pain” had kept her on the

his nine top-ten finishes, and the four family trophies

shelf in the months before the race. She let it be known,

he won running with his son Toby. For years, the post-

during that time, that two-time winner Melody-Anne

Dipsea “Survivor’s Dinner” at his Tiburon home was as

Schultz would be the favorite. But Matson recovered

much discussed as the race itself. In his jaunty white

from her injuries, and drew inspiration from Birdstone’s

longshoreman’s hat, he became the collegial, smiling

upset of Smarty Jones at the Belmont Stakes. “Even an

face of this race, its unofficial ambassador: Mr. Dipsea.

old nag can come out of the bushes, surge to the lead, and hang on,” says Matson, who, while running nothing

SHIRLEY MATSON

Matson crossed the finish a bit bloodied, having

It was six more years before she worked up the nerve

scraped her right knee and elbow in a headlong fall.

to enter a race—a three-miler around Lake Merritt in

Despite that spill, it was obvious that even if she is a

Oakland in 1977. She came in second, and thus was

road racer at heart, this four-time Dipsea winner has

born a stellar age-group running career. Matson, 64,

made the dirt her friend.

has gone on to set a jaw-dropping 187 U.S. National

RUSS KIERNAN

she was the nation’s top over-50 female runner, and

Russ Kiernan ran his first Dipsea in 1970. No one who

became one of the first two distaff members of the

saw the craggy-faced 32-year-old huff his way to a

Olympic Club, whose members immediately asked her,

middle-of-the-pack finish would have guessed that he

“Why don’t you run the Dipsea?”

would become one of the most successful runners in the

She was a road racer, she explained. She didn’t do

history of this race. Over time, says Kiernan, now 67,

dirt. Despite her understandable qualms about venturing

his pain threshold expanded along with his knowledge

onto the Dipsea’s sinister terrain, she did enter, finish-

of the course. “It’s mind over matter. Now, when I’m

ing second on her first try behind the defending champ,

halfway up Dynamite and part of me says, ‘I can’t do it,’

a ponytailed 10-year-old named Megan McGowan. A

another part of me says, ‘Bull—I did it last week.’”

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Age Records (62 age group, 125 single age). In 1992,

P HOTOS : MI CHAE L C REED M A N, THE ANNUA L D I PSEA RACE

like a nag, did surge to the lead, then held off Schultz.

Shirley Matson didn’t even jog until her early thirties.

090

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2:36:59 PM

“Every year, I may get 10 or 12 seconds slower. But every year, I gain another minute. One of these days I’m gonna be at the ﬁnish line before I start.” —Russ Kiernan He has since won 23 black shirts (awarded to top-

He failed to mellow with age. Ten years ago, the

35 finishers), none for a finish lower than 16th. He has

then-89-year-old spent 16 days in the Mariposa County

won the Dipsea twice, come in second three times, and

jail following a rock-throwing incident with some tres-

recorded an astonishing 22 top-10 finishes. A fearless

passing adolescents. Incarcerated, he simply ran laps in

descender—he is renowned for devouring Steep Ravine

jail. “I told ’em the Dipsea’s coming up, you gotta train

four steps at a time—he is also a repository of time-

for the Dipsea,” says Kirk, now 98. “They opened my

whittling shortcuts, and has shared, with anyone who

cell door, so I could run laps indoors.”

cares to read them, a highly useful list of Dipsea time

Wheelchair-bound in ’04—he broke his hip the pre-

checks. (Those wishing to finish in 70 minutes, for in-

vious winter—Kirk was Dipsea’s honorary starter. After

stance, should be at the top of the steps in 8:30, and at

the race, he was presented with a new trophy, the Jack

the top of Cardiac in 48 minutes.)

Kirk “Dipsea Demon” Award for “determination, perse-

This generosity is offset by Kiernan’s miserliness

verance, and performance.” It is a fancy award—two-

when it comes to sharing his hard-earned “alternate

tiered, with winged creatures, ornate columns, and a

routes.” As he wrote in his popular “Dipsea Tips,” first

golden cup. Like Kirk, it is a piece of work.

published in the Tamalpa Gazette, “You’ve all been well

Later, a woman he did not know knelt beside him

brought up by your parents. They taught you proper

and said, “See you next year.”

etiquette: not asking people their ages or how much

Replied Kirk, “Let’s hope.”

Dipsea runners gingerly

money they make. Dipsea shortcuts belong in the same

Looks like he’s going to make it. MM

negotiate a steep downhill.

category. It’s not proper to ask.” He has won the race twice, and will be a favorite on June 12. “Every year, I may get 10 or 12 seconds slower,” Kiernan allows. “But every year, I gain another minute. One of these days I’m gonna be at the finish line before I start.”

JACK KIRK It is believed to be a world record: Jack Kirk started and finished every Dipsea from 1930 to ’02. That’s 66 Dipseas (the race was canceled twice during the Great Depression and four times during World War II). The moment the streak ends is captured in The Dipsea Demon, a documentary by Drow Millar. A tottering Kirk approaches Cardiac some three and a half hours into the race. At this pace, he’s at least another two hours from finishing. Race officials offer him a ride to Stinson. He refuses at first, but eventually relents. “There comes a time,” he says. “I think I reached ,

that time.” What a time it was! He finished second in his first Dipsea, and was again runner-up in ’36. Twice he ran the fastest time. But it was not until 1951 that Kirk first won the race, digging deep to hold off Paul Gentili, whom he beat by 10 seconds. He won again as a 60year-old in 1967, surviving two falls to win by a mere five seconds.

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GALLERIES

Natural wonders Galleries highlight the breadth of our local resources

BY ANNE CRUMP RAY

Left: Cross Dress Tents by Robin Lasser and Adrienne Pao (Fuji crystal archive print, 30” x 36”) at Gallery Route One. Below: Dessert Is Served by Popliteo (bronze sculpture, 21.5” tall x 25” wide x 15” deep) at Caldwell Snyder

ustrous tomatoes, mangoes, pears, and other fruits of the earth signal summer’s arrival at San Francisco’s

Caldwell Snyder Gallery—but the voluptuous shapes and glossy sheen are where the similarities between these larger-than-life specimens and their vine-ripened brethren end. The succulent bounty on view at the gallery is the work of a pair of artists, Luis Montoya and Leslie Ortiz, who mimic nature’s output in supersize bronzes. Working together under the single name Popliteo, Montoya and Ortiz transform lumps of clay into smooth, taut bronze sculptures, each of which undergoes a labor-intensive ﬁnishing process that produces a rich patina—and allery Route One sits at the south-

ly a dozen venues around Marin County and

ern end of Tomales Bay, where the

in San Francisco.

mandates editions numbering six or fewer. Joining Popliteo’s work in the gallery’s

Point Reyes National Seashore

“This is the biggest project we’ve done,”

summer show, which runs June through

meets the Golden Gate National Recreation

says Mary Eubank, Gallery Route One co-

August, are ﬁgurative sculptures by three oth-

Area. Given the idyllic location, it’s un-

founder. California Currents endeavors to

derstandable that the artist-run nonproﬁt

bridge aesthetics and science, she notes, en-

would sometimes turn the focus on the en-

couraging artists to research watershed is-

vironment—its beauty, its diversity, and chal-

sues and even to establish links with environ-

lenges to its preservation—when staging

mental organizations. “We’re trying to stress

exhibitions. For California Currents, which

education, while also creating exhibitions

runs June 19 through July 24, the uniting

that are good to look at.” Gallery Route One

theme is the ocean.

will host a public reception for California

Prompted by newly released reports on

Currents June 19 from 3 to 5 pm. For infor-

the health of the world’s oceans and the

mation on exhibition events and participat-

emergence of several ocean-related bills in

ing venues, contact Gallery Route One.

Congress, California Currents is an ambi-

Gallery Route One, 11101 Highway

tious presentation, encompassing works by

One, Point Reyes Station, 415.663.1347,

more than 60 artists and extending to near-

galleryrouteone.org; 11–5 Wed–Mon, closed Tue

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Saturday June 18 and Sunday Father’s Day

June 19

10AM - 6PM

Celebrate America’s Most Beautiful Art Festival See the artwork of over 250 artists at a spacious lawn party by the Lagoon. Enjoy brunch by the water with festival treats, fine wines, and gourmet coffee. Stilt walkers. Jazz quartets. Taiko drums. Fine art. Come celebrate Marin. Bring Friends. Civic Center exit, off 101 in San Rafael • $8 admission • Kids & parking free. Presented by

MarinArtFestival.com • 415-388-0151 Ceramic sculpture by Michael and Shelly Buonaiuto

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er artists: Maria Louisa Campoy, an archae-

Left: Costume C by Richard Tuttle (color aquatint

ologist by training whose historically themed

on antique paper, paper size 23.5” x 18.5”) at

works are collected by King Juan Carlos of

Crown Point Press

Spain; Chico-based Dan Corbin, who forges life-size ﬁgures out of metals, resin, and oth-

rowed works—including woodcuts and lith-

er materials; and, in his ﬁrst exhibition with

ographs—from New York–based publishers

Caldwell Snyder, Israeli artist Boaz Vaadia,

Universal Limited Art Editions and Brooke

whose chiseled stone and bronze works ap-

Alexander Editions. “The goal is to show how

pear in the collections of the Metropolitan

Richard works in a variety of print media,”

Museum of Art in New York and the San

explains gallery director Valerie Wade.

Francisco Museum of Modern Art.

“Techniques exist because they have

Caldwell Snyder Gallery, 341 Sutter Street,

particular benefit to artists for search and

San Francisco, 415.296.7896, caldwellsnyder.

cesses to create limited-edition works. This

research,” Tuttle said on one of his visits to

com; 10–6 Mon–Sat, closed Sun

summer the gallery showcases a series of

Crown Point. “Rembrandt found prints a

projects conducted with the famously inven-

perfectly natural place to be, a place to do

tive American artist Richard Tuttle.

research for his painting. A printing plate

ucked away discreetly on Hawthorne Street, in San Francisco’s South of

Coinciding with a monumental retrospec-

Market neighborhood, Crown Point

tive of Tuttle’s work at the San Francisco

Press has no trouble attracting attention.

Museum of Modern Art, Richard Tuttle: Print

Richard Tuttle: Print Projects runs

The workshop-cum-gallery has a long and

Projects features aquatints, accompany-

June 2 through September 4. Crown Point

storied history of collaborations with some

ing texts by the artist, and portfolio boxes

Press, 20 Hawthorne Street, San Francisco,

of the world’s greatest living artists, working

from Crown Point’s eight collaborations with

415.974.6273, crownpoint.com; 10–6 Tue–Sat,

with them in a variety of printmaking pro-

Tuttle since 1993. Also included are bor-

closed Sun–Mon

092_095_Art Galleries.indd

is material that is immaterial. The print has complete integrity right from the start.”

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DUNCAN REGEHR “Corax I” Ink /Wax Pencil/Equipoise 17 inches x 21 inches Inquiries: kate@duncanregehr.com www.duncanregehr.com 541.469.6619

1704 Tiburon Blvd. Tiburon, CA 94920 415.435.2511

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“Catch a perfect Caterer…”

S.F. Chronicle

plated salad

Creative, innovative cuisine Stylish presentation Impeccable service The ﬁnest, freshest ingredients Complete event planning tel 415.331.8655 fax 415.331.8669 catermarin.com

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FLAVOR

Sandwiches to savor

BY ANDREW BAKER

andwiches woo me wherever I go. Living in Manhattan, I was attracted to a little number with tender slices of breaded eggplant and moz-

zarella cheese from an Italian deli in my neighborhood.

On trips to London, I fell for the “All Day Breakfast” sandwich from the Pret A Manger chain of health-food cafés: Slices of sausage and bacon top egg salad that oozes out of whole-grain bread with the first bite. In Florence’s San Lorenzo market, I courted the sliced pork sandwich served at Nerbone. It’s flavored with a parsley-rich green sauce, and a piquant red chili one. Closer to home, I found some new love interests. If a picnic is your plan, all of my favorite spots offer sandwiches to go.

FISH. The menu at this harborside restaurant reads like a cookbook written by fishermen of diverse backgrounds. The Saigon Salmon sandwich bears the spicy stamp of ginger and jalapeños. The cooks poach their own fish for the tuna salad sandwich—large chunks flavored with red onion, niçoise olives, celery, capers, and lemon peel. 350 Harbor Dr, Sausalito, 415.331.3474. Wed to Sun 11:30 am to 4:30 and 5:30 to 8:30.

CAFE LO CUBANO. Pressed sandwiches at this Laurel Village newcomer in the city are perfect for a mid-shopping break, accompanied by sweet Cuban-style coffee. The menu is brief, with only four sandwich choices, the

P HOTO: BARBA RA RIES

best of which is the Medadia, a classic combination of thinly sliced pork, ham, cheese, and jalapeño remou-

town San Anselmo. 556 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo,

Saigon Salmon sandwich at

lade. 3401 California St, San Francisco, 415.831.4672.

415.721.2901. Mon to Fri 11:30 am to 4:30 pm, Sat and

FISH in Sausalito

Daily 6 am to midnight.

Sun 9 am to 2 pm.

DEBBIE DOES DESSERT AND LUNCH. “We’ve decided

LET’S EAT. This Tiburon institution, in the Cove Center,

we don’t have to go to France now,” said a couple who

offers a lineup of innovative combinations. The cur-

recently discovered this petite cafe with a charming

ried turkey salad is a winner, and No. 8—with chick-

creekside patio. The pan bagnat sandwich—with pro-

en, roasted red peppers, and fresh basil—is satisfyingly

sciutto, goat cheese, artichoke hearts, and more—is a

simple. Assemble a take-away feast to enjoy at nearby

standout. And the croque monsieur—ham and cheese

Blackie’s Pasture. 1 Blackfield Dr, Tiburon, 415.383.3663.

with béchamel sauce—brings a touch of Paris to down-

Mon to Sat 10 am to 6 pm, Sun until 5 pm.

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CALENDAR

JUNE JULY 2005 ■

PERFORMING ARTS T H E AT E R

by California Shakespeare Theater. Bruns Amphitheater (Orinda). 510.548.9666, calshakes.org

June—July

June 5, 11, 12, 19

Richard III Peace reigns under King Edward IV as Richard aspires to the throne, through June 26. Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead opens July 8. Corner of Highway One and Calle Del Mar (Stinson Beach). 415.868.1115, shakespeareatstinson.org

Oklahoma! Experience a unique outdoor amphitheater while enjoying the Mountain Play’s version of this legendary Broadway musical. Cushing Memorial Amphitheater (Mill Valley). 415.383.1100, mountainplay.org

held secret. Performed by A.C.T. Geary Theater (SF). 415.749.2228, act-sf.org

June 12—July 7

June 14—July 9 June 10—July 10

June 1—July 3 Othello A bold interpretation of Shakespeare’s timeless classic presented

The Queen of Spades Tchaikovsky’s opera about a man’s addiction to gambling. His obsession causes him to risk all on one fateful hand of cards. San Francisco Opera (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com

The Goat, or Who Is Sylvia? Three-time Pulitzer winner Edward Albee’s story of a successful family confronted with a long-

spotlight on oklahoma!

The Pearl Fishers The San Francisco Opera premieres Georges Bizet’s 1863 lyric opera. Best friends Zurga and Nadir vow to never again let the love of a girl, Leila, come between them. San Francisco Opera (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com

Thru June 19 Runs with Scissors by Michael McKeever. The comedic story of a man who hits the road after being diagnosed with a terminal illness and meets up with two characters ‘‘from above.” Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). 415.388.5200, marintheatre.org

Thru June 19 The Rules of Charity by John Belluso. The ever-present impulse to challenge adversity is pitched against a society that condemns poverty as the greatest disability of all. Hothouse ’05, Magic Theater, Fort Mason Center (SF). 415.441.8822, magictheatre.org

June 16, July 14

Pack a picnic and head up to the Cushing Memorial Amphitheater to enjoy the legendary musical Oklahoma! The Mountain Play is the ideal setting to re-create the Oklahoma Territory, complete with square dancing demonstrations and live folk and country music by Doug Adamz and his band

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Bravo! Audiences will relive the pioneer life through Patrick Leveque as Curly (photo above) and Laurie Keith as Laurey. Hike in or take a free shuttle leaving from Manzanita Commuter Parking Lot or Tam High School on Miller. For tickets call 415.383.1100, or go to mountainplay.org.

An Evening of French Cabaret. Grab your passport and let yourself be transported to Paris for an Evening of French Cabaret. This monthly series runs through December. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

July 15—Aug 21 Once Upon a Mattress Musical by Mary Rodgers based on the fairy tale “The Princess and the Pea.” The Barn Theatre (Ross). 415.456.9555, rossvalleyplayers.org

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July 28—31 & Aug 4—7

and Poulenc at the Herbst Theatre (SF). 415.392.2545, performances.org

Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat Andrew Lloyd Webber’s first musical continues to delight. The story is of the biblical Joseph, a handsome young man able to interpret dreams. San Anselmo Town Players at the Playhouse (San Anselmo). 415.258.4640, thetownplayers.com

June 9—18 Ode to Joy: the Beethoven Ninth Partnership between Michael Tilson Thomas and the San Francisco Symphony. (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org

June 14 July 8—Aug 14 Two Gentlemen of Verona This twisted Shakespearean romantic comedy takes the stage at Dominican University of California’s Forest Meadows Amphitheatre (San Rafael). 415.499.4488, marinshakespeare.org

The Coltrane Project Saxophone Summit features Michael Brecker, Joe Lovano, Dave Liebman. SFJazz, Herbst Theatre (SF). 415.776.1999, sfjazz.org

June 24—26 Monterey Bay Blues Festival The ’70s Soul Jam with M.C. Jimmie “JJ” Walker. Also performing: Ruth Brown, the Neville Brothers, Buddy Guy, and many more (Monterey). 831.394.2652, montereyblues.com

June 26 SF Jazz presents “Generations of Jazz Vocals” Paula West with guest Oscar Brown Jr. Herbst Theatre (SF). 415.776.1999, sfjazz.org

July 1

O N G O I N G C O M E DY

Contemporary Opera Marin Presented by College of Marin music department (Kentfield). 415.485.9460, comopera.com

Vocalist Michael Feinstein presents favorites from the American-Jewish songbook, including hits by Gershwin, Irving Berlin, Cole Porter, and others. SF Symphony (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org

Every Tuesday

June 18—19

July 15—16

Mark Pitta and Friends From newcomers to professionals—all flex their stand-up muscles. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

Russian River Blues Festival Artists Deborah Coleman, Al Green, the Tommy Castro Band, and others. Johnson’s Beach (Guerneville). 510.655.9471, rrfestivals.com

GrooveLily Sit back and enjoy the eclectic sounds of smart pop with electric violin, keyboards, and drums. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

MUSIC

June 17

June 23—25

June 2 Songwriters-in-the-Round. Local artist Kimberlye Gold has invited some of her favorite songwriters onstage to share new and familiar songs in a comfortable setting. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

Of Thee I Sing/Let ’Em Eat Cake Both Gershwin classics parody the pretensions of elected officials. SF Symphony (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org

July 16 Music in the Gardens 101: Jazz Orchestra 101, Yerba Buena Gardens Festival. The Marcus Shelby Orchestra explores the

June 4 Dan Hicks & The Hot Licks with very special guests. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

June 5 New Century Chamber Orchestra Enjoy this season finale featuring glorious strings. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000, ncco.org

June 8 Christòpheren Nomura, baritone and Harolyn Blackwell, soprano perform songs by Saint-Saëns, Schubert, Schumann,

John Baumann and Jennifer Gwirtz of Right Brain Performance Lab

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CALENDAR range and dynamics of a jazz orchestra through compositions by Duke Ellington and others. Yerba Buena Gardens (SF). 415.543.1718, ybgf.org

Art Works Downtown Art Walk Visit the center’s art studios, June 24. The Fine Art of Printmaking—a juried exhibition, June 9–July 22. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119, artworksdowntown.org

July 23

realism of Mario Gomez thru June. The subtle surrealism of Jeff Faust through July. 483 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.945.9454, gallerybergelli.com

Gallery Route One

The West African Highlife Band Samba Ngo, and the Nigerian Brothers deliver an evening of extraordinary African music. Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000, marinjcc.org

Artisans Art Gallery Bon Appétit Art in all forms that celebrates cuisine and the beauty of food. The show runs June 7–July 2. 78 East Blithedale, Mill Valley. 415-388-2044, artisangallery.org

California Current A comprehensive exhibition and educational project spotlighting issues of ocean health. 11101 Hwy One, Point Reyes Station. 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org

Garzoli

DANCE

Recent Early California Acquisitions, 19th and early 20th century, including works by Edwin Deakin, Grace Hudson, William Keith, and more. 930 B St, San Rafael. 415.459.4321, garzoligallery.com

June 8—12 Boris Eifman’s inventive St. Petersburg Troupe performs two full-length works: the premiere of Eifman’s Anna Karenina and Don Juan & Molière. Zellerbach Hall (Berkeley). 510.642.9988, calperfs.berkeley.edu

Jim Dines Photography Jim Dines combines his passion for beauty in nature with his skill as a photographer to produce beautiful, spiritual photographs. 705 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.331.1471, photocyclops.com

June 11—12, 18—19, 25—26 The San Francisco Ethnic Dance Festival presents three exciting weekends of dance featuring 29 groups from around the world. WorldArtsWest, Fort Mason Center (SF). 415.474.3914, worldartswest.org

Robert Green Fine Arts Works on paper by Jim Bird, Sam Francis, John Grillo, and Paul Jenkins. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776

July 12—31

Still Life with Oranges 2003, David Bates, at John

Standout performances can be expected at the WestWaveDanceFestival, presented each year by Summerfest/ dance in San Francisco. Several venues (SF). 415.863.9834, summerfestdance.org

Berggruen Gallery, San Francisco

June 17—18, 24—25 Right Brain Performance Lab presents State of the Union/Anonymous Sources by partners in life and art John Baumann and Jennifer Gwirtz. CounterPULSE (SF). 415.387.4812, performancelab.org

GALLERIES

Edith Caldwell Gallery Still-life paintings by Robert C. Jackson. Realist drawings by Don Williams, Susan Manchester, Steven Graber, and Ronald Sherr. New contemporary tapestries by Alan Magee and Era and Donald Farnsworth. 819 Bridgeway, Sausalito. 415.331.5003, edithcaldwell.com

142 Throckmorton Circus-inspired artwork by Bonnie Metzger throughout the month of June. 142 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

Studio 333 Collection of work including furniture, paintings, photography, and jewelry by local artists. 333A Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.8272

Claudia Chapline Gallery Ocean Works Group exhibition of painting and sculpture June 18-July 31. 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach. 415.868.2308, cchapline.com

MARIN

Tiburon Fine Art Kathleen Dunne, Barbara Lawrence, Stevan Shapona, Paige Peterson, and others. 84 Main St, Tiburon. 415.435.5999, tiburonfineart.com

Contemporary Fine Arts (CFA) Art Brokers Irene Belknap, Tjasa Owen, Eric Zener, Wendy Gruber, Brennie Brackett, and others featured in limited-edition prints. 247 Shoreline Hwy, Mill Valley. 415.380.4100, artbrokersinc.com

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Kay Bradner thru June. 20 Greenfield Ave, San Anselmo. 415.457.8847, cfagallery.com

Gallery Bergelli New works from Chile, expressionistic landscapes of Carlos Catasse, and the magical

William Lester Gallery Point Reyes Plein Air 30 artists paint Marin, June 2–5. Peggi Kroll-Roberts, Ray Roberts, and Camille Przewodek thruJuly. 11101 Shoreline Hwy, Point Reyes Station. 415.663.9365, williamlestergallery.com

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Rena Bransten Gallery

SAN FRANCISCO

John Berggruen Gallery An exhibition of David Bates’s paintings continues through June 11. Bates’s paintings explore the marshlands and backcountry of his home state, Texas. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com

Photographs by Oliver Boberg and paintings and drawings by Jessica Snow, May 12–June 11. Photographs by Philip Kwame Apagya, Uta Barth, and Eirik Johnson, June 16–July 23. 77 Geary St, 415.982.3292, renabranstengallery.com

Meyerovich Gallery Caldwell Snyder Gallery

Modern European masters including Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Marc Chagall and Joan Miro; New Acquisitions and Contemporary American Masters, all exhibits through July 31. 251 Post St, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com

Maria Luisa Campoy, bronze sculpture, through June. Boaz Vaadia, sculpture through July. 341 Sutter St, 415.296.7896, caldwellsnyder.com

Fraenkel Gallery Ralph Eugene Meatyard, May 5—July 1. Obsessions of the Oculist, collection of objects focused on the art of seeing. Curated by Sheri Sheridan, May 5—July 1. 49 Geary St, 415.981.2661, fraenkelgallery.com

Gregory Lind Gallery Associative Realms June 1–July 2. Features Leslie Baum, Jim Gaylord, Jonathan Laib, Ruby Stiler, and Jon-Paul Villegas, curated by Christian Maychack. 49 Geary St, 415.296. 9661, gregorylindgallery.com

George Krevsky Gallery Recent paintings by contemporary artists: Lawrence Ferlinghetti, Anthony Dubovsky, Maury Lapp, Glenna Putt, Mary Robertson, John Dobbs, William Wheeler. 77 Geary St, 415.397.9748, georgekrevskygallery.com

MUSEUMS MARIN

Bolinas Museum Hackett-Freedman Richard Ryan’s paintings focus on color and spatial ideas, using such iconography as drapery, majolica, and abstract cosmological shapes, through July. 250 Sutter St, 415.362.7152, hackettfreedman.com

Hang Art and Hang Art Annex Dana Martin McCutcheon: Contrapsychosymmetry opens June 2. 700 and Under, to celebrate Hang Art’s seventh anniversary, reception June 16. Jenny E. Balisle: Dark to Light opens July 7. 556 & 567 Sutter St, 415.434.4264, hangart.com

Jack Hanley Gallery

Artist Tom Wood talks about the Piazonni Legacy, June 5; Coastal Artists Working with Form, July 2; Garden Bounty, July 16. 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org

Falkirk Cultural Center Painting in the Garden Explore acrylics in the garden setting of the Falkirk Mansion. Start with underpainting and learn about glaze techniques and mixed media. Saturdays July 9–30 (San Rafael). 415.485.3328, falkirkculturalcenter.org

Marin Museum of the American Indian

Leslie Shows thru June. 395/389 Valencia St, 415.522.1623, jackhanley.com

The story of the Coast Miwok people, told in photographs. Ongoing, Miwok Park (Novato). 415.897.4064, marinindian.com.

John Pence Gallery

B AY A R E A

Joseph McGurl, James McVicker and Dorothy Morgan, Nicholas Raynolds, 750 Post St, 415.441.1138, johnpence.com

Asian Art Museum

Paul Thiebaud Paintings from the Estate Artist Paul Stempen.

718 Columbus Ave, 415.434.3055, paulthiebaudgallery.com

Tibet: Treasures from the Roof of the World June 12—September 11. Sacred objects from Tibet on view belong to the Dalai Lama and are selected from the Potala and Norbu Lingka, the winter and summer palaces. (SF) 415.581.3500, asianart.org

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CALENDAR California Academy of Sciences Chocolate Discover the journey of this hallowed seed from the ancient Mayans to Hershey, Pennsylvania. June 11–Sept 5. (SF) 415.321.8000, calacademy.org.

Legion of Honor Artwear Fashion and anti-fashion, evolution of wearable art from hippies to today. Includes objects that are functional and those that are metaphoric. May 14–Oct 30. (SF) 415.863.3330, thinker.org

Mexican Museum Más Caras Masks of Mexico Discover cultural rituals and meanings behind the museum’s extensive mask collection, thru Aug 27. (SF) 415.202.9700, mexicanmuseum.org

Museo ItaloAmericano

Marin Art Festival, see listing on page 105

its fragrances inhaled, thru Sept 5. (SF) 415.591.8800, jmsf.org

The paintings of Elena Civoli Brittain, June 4. Sculptures of Nola Pardi Proll, June 11. (SF) 415.673.2200, museoitaloamericano.org

Museum of Craft & Folk Art Shrines of the Sprit The Art of Tobi Kahn. A series of ritual objects and paintings that blend spirit and art, thru July 24. Puppets from Around the World. A selection of 100 puppets representing all the major categories; rod puppets, shadow puppets, and string puppets or marionettes, thru July 24. (SF) 415.775.0991, mocfa.org.

Copia Cerámica Y Cultura The Story of Spanish and Mexican Mayólica, thru Oct 3. A Stirring Story: Navajo and Pueblo Spoons. Handmade spoons by silversmiths in the 1880s, June 3–Aug 22. Sculpture by Harriete Estel Berman, July 8–Jan 23, 2006 (Napa). 888.512.6742, copia.org

June 18 Kid’s Day at the Landing Benefiting Marin Advocates for Children, this fun-filled day is all about what kids love to do—games, rock climbing, a magic show—and Radio Disney’s Freestyle Franco will be there too (Larkspur). 415.507.9016, marinadvocates.org

June 25

MARIN

Adventures with Tide Pools Get out early to see what is revealed in this -1.5 low tide at Duxbury Reef. From brightly colored sea slugs and sea stars to spiny urchins, discover and learn about these fascinating creatures (Point Reyes National Seashore). 415.663.1200, ptreyes.org

Thru September

June 30—July 4

Think Tank Join guides for an adventure in problem solving through mind teasers, riddles, and puzzles. Bay Area Discovery Museum (Sausalito). 415.339.3900, baykidsmuseum.org

Marin County Fair Celebrate the 60th year of this community celebration with fireworks, exhibits, thrilling rides, and musical acts like Huey Lewis and the News, Starship featuring Mickey Thomas, and Pablo Cruise. Civic Center Drive (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, marinfair.org

FAMILIES/KIDS

SFMOMA Photographs from the Prentice and Paul Sack Collection This extraordinary exhibition is one of the largest ever mounted at SFMOMA, celebrating an unparalleled collection that spans the history of photography from 1840 to 1975, June 2–September 6. New work by Marilyn Minter, thru July 24. (SF) 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org

Sonoma Valley Museum The Art of the Chair An eclectic mix of rare chairs and decorative arts from the 18th century, June 4–Aug 14. (Sonoma) 707.939.7862, svma.org

The Contemporary Jewish Museum Scents of Purpose Artists interpret the spice box during the havdalah ceremony, performed at the end of Shabbat; the spice box (or besamim) is passed around and

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June 3—October Film Night in the Park Films for and about the family. Venues are outdoors in San Francisco and Marin. 415.453.4333, filmnight.org

June 12 An evening of progressive dance and entertainment Presented by RoCo Dance and Fitness of Mill Valley. RoCo Dance features 300 students of all ages and skills. Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marincenter.org

B AY A R E A

June 3 ZooFest for Kids This fun-packed event includes behind-the-scenes animal encounters, activities for kids, live entertainment, and food and beverages. Advance tickets required (SF). 415.753.7165, sfzoo.org

June 18—Sept 5 Science Under Sail Head out for a day of

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science. Sail on a 65-foot sailboat designed for ocean research. Participants work alongside Monterey Bay Aquarium naturalists to observe threatened sea otters, take plankton samples, and observe bottom-dwelling creatures (Monterey). 831.648.4800, mbayaq.org

June 19 Father’s Day Bike-About A great way to experience the SF Zoo. An early-morning bike ride is followed by a relaxing continental breakfast. Bring the whole family along for the fun. Pre-registration required (SF). 415.753.7073, sfzoo.org

June 19 Family Day SFMOMA presents a daylong celebration for families featuring hands-on art projects, gallery activities, music, and performances. Activities are designed for children 10 years and younger. SFMOMA (SF). 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org

July 7 Parks Trust Annual Play Day Free summer kickoff party. Join the San Francisco Parks Trust for games, prizes, music, an obstacle course, and merry-go-round rides. Sharon Meadow, Golden Gate Park (SF). 415.750.5105, sfparkstrust.org

What’s Next…

July 14—Oct 2 The Nobel Prize: 100 Years of Creativity Gain insight into the creative process of some of the greatest minds in history and draw up a plan for sustainable peace in your own community. Exploratorium (SF). 415.563.7337, exploratorium.edu

July 24 San Francisco Theater Festival A day of performances by more than 50 theater companies and solo artists at the Children’s Rooftop. Yerba Buena Gardens (SF). 415.543.1718, yerbabuenaarts.org

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EVENTS June 3—5 Wine Country Classic Vintage Car Races This event hums with historic auto races and a classic car rally through Sonoma Valley. Models like Lotus, Ferrari, Jaguar, and some vehicles dating as far back as pre–World War I (Sonoma). 800.870.7223, infineonraceway.com

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CALENDAR June 4—5 Marin Home Show & Benefit Jazz Concert Featuring 300 Bay Area businesses specializing in garden and home improvement at the Marin Center (San Rafael). 415.472.3500, marinhomeshow.com

June 4—5 Union Street Festival The 29th annual kickoff to the street fair season. Features 200 art exhibitors, musicians, and gourmet food, beer, and wine. Union Street from Gough to Steiner (SF). 800.310.6563, unionstreetsf.com

June 4—5 Ocean’s Edge Monterey Bay Aquarium celebrates the transformation of the original aquarium galleries into the dramatic exhibits of Ocean’s Edge. Auditorium programs, craft rooms, musical entertainment (Monterey). 831.648.4888, mbayaq.org

Mona Lisa chalked by Cuong Nguyen at the Italian Street Painting event in San Rafael

June 5 Marin Society of Artists Art Auction Great opportunity to acquire quality artwork at rea-

sonable prices. This silent and verbal auction is a fund-raiser for MSA (Ross). 415.454.9561, marinsocietyofartists.org

like Minnie Driver, a current headliner on the London jazz circuit; Civic Center (SF). 415.864.6000, bwball.org

June 11

June 11—12

Black and White Ball A gala event to benefit San Francisco Symphony’s education programs, featuring entertainers

Italian Street Painting Enjoy the world’s top madonnari (street painters), including featured local artist Dean Pearson, as they transform

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Kenneth A. Preston

Partner

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downtown San Rafael into a spectacular asphalt gallery for thousands of spectators (San Rafael). 415.457.4878, youthinarts.org

ognized painters, sculptors, photographers, and more, as you sample savory treats. Marin Civic Center Lagoon (San Rafael). 415.388.0150, marinartfestival.com

June 11—12 Novato Art, Wine and Music Festival Have fun with friends and neighbors along Grand Avenue downtown (Novato). 415.897.1164, novato.org

June 12 Catching the waves Sand drawings by Jim Denevan & ocean music by Kitundu part of the California Currents exhibit, Headlands Center for the Arts (Sausalito). 415.331.2787, headlands.org

June 22—25 AAF Contemporary Art Fair Original contemporary painting, drawing, sculpture, photography, and prints, all priced from $100–$10,000, Fort Mason Center (SF). 415.749.4569, sfai.edu.org

June 23 Marin Scapes Opening night gala. Enjoy paintings and photographs by revered local artists at Escalle Winery (Larkspur). 415.457.6964, marinscapes.org

June 12 Larkspur Flower & Food Festival Downtown bustles with gourmet food and wine exhibitors and art. Live musical entertainment features Jules Broussard and others. Magnolia Ave (Larkspur). 415.924.3808

June 18—19 Marin Art Festival Browse through works by more than 250 Bay Area and nationally rec-

June 25—26 San Anselmo Art & Design Festival Returning to downtown San Anselmo with an expanded format of artisans including landscape design and gourmet cooking demos as well as nonstop musical entertainment. San Anselmo Ave from Tamalpais to Bolinas (San Anselmo). 800.310.6563, sresproductions.com

June 26 Mill Valley Wine and Gourmet Hosted by Mill Valley Market and Mill Valley Chamber of Commerce, this event attracts nearly 1,500 people from all over Marin to Lytton Square to partake in a family-friendly fest (Mill Valley). 415.388.9700, millvalley.org

July 2—3 Fillmore Jazz Festival The Fillmore district comes alive with jazz from standards to fusion, Latin-based to mellow. Party parameters are Fillmore from Jackson to Ellis (SF). 800.731.0003, fillmorejazzfestival.com

July 9—Aug 14 Weekends Renaissance Faire A bawdy fair started in 1963 by Ronald and Phyllis Patterson, but celebrating a time and place much earlier than that—Elizabethan England. Stafford Lake (Novato). 415.897.4555, forestfaire.com

July 15—17 Healdsburg Museum Barn Sale Raise funds for the museum when you buy antiques, furniture, housewares, books, jewelry, and more—all on display at the Classic Antiques

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CALENDAR June 25

July 23

Jazz on the Half Shell Gala Dance Palace fund-raiser featuring Joe Craven, Django Latino, and Maria Marquez (Point Reyes Station). 415.663.1075, dancepalace.org

Thomas Church: Landscape Architect and California Modernist Lecture and Donnell Garden Tour (by bus to Sonoma) with UC Berkeley professor Marc Treib at the San Francisco Botancial Garden, Golden Gate Park (SF). 415.661.1316, ext. 354, sfbotanicalgarden.org

Adam Smith of Fog City News and Gary Guittard of Guittard Chocolate Compay offer a guided tour of chocolate tasting at the California Academy of Sciences (SF). 415.321.8000, calacademy.org

July 23

July 7—10

Books by the Bay A celebration of independent bookselling. Highlights include seven panels, author book signings, and live poetry readings. Yerba Buena Gardens (SF). 415.543.1718, booksbythebay.com

Mystery Writers Conference Learning All the Clues. This four-day conference has a rich tradition of great authors, teachers, and panelists. Students work closely with mystery writers, agents, editors, publishers, and crime fighters (Corte Madera). (800) 999-7909, bookpassage.com

parking lot (Healdsburg). 707.431.3325, healdsburgmuseum.org

July 16

NATURE WALKS/TALKS

LECTURES/WORKSHOPS EFT Workshop Series: Eliminating Chronic Pain Evo Spa (Mill Valley). 415.383.3223, evo-spa.com

Local actor George Webber morphs into General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo as he retells the general’s life story and the history of Sonoma; dates on website (Sonoma). 707.694.5097, georgewebber.com

June 4 July 7

June 14

ONGOING

Diane Johnson, author of Le Divorce Le Mariage, and many more best-selling novels, will read from her newest book, Into a Paris Quarter, at the Mechanics Institute (SF). 415.388.4956, paris-expat.com

June 16

Hawks, Owls, and Their Young Learn about the abundant population of birds of prey and their nesting and feeding habits (Point Reyes National Seashore). 415.663.1200, ptreyes.org

June 12

The di Rosa Preserve Artist Lecture Series Artist Deborah Oropallo creates imagery out of things such as the pipes and barrels in a chemical storage facility near her studio. She has painted in a traditional manner as well as with other techniques (Sonoma). 707.226.5991, dirosapreserve.org

July 16 Amy Goodman Acclaimed journalist, executive producer of Democracy Now!, and author of Exception to the Rulers: Exposing Oily Politicians, War Profiteers, and the Media That Love Them. The Osher Marin JCC (San Rafael). 415.444.8000, marinjcc.org

Dipsea Race The Dipsea is considered one of the oldest cross-country races in America, first run in 1905. The scenic 7.1mile course runs from Mill Valley to Stinson Beach. 415.331.3550, dipsea.org

June 18 Native Trees, and Shrubs This all-day course taught by Glenn Keator will focus on how to recognize the woody plants in our area, from Douglas firs to coastal scrub. The class ends in a four-mile tour to explore and identify (Point Reyes National Seashore). 415.663.1200, ptreyes.org

July 16 Travels Through Time & Space Geologist Doris Sloan guides participants through a journey of Point Reyes geology, from its beginnings as part of the southern Sierra Nevada to its respite in the Bay Area on the way to Alaska (Point Reyes National Seashore). 415.663.1200, ptreyes.org

July 30

Donnell Garden, lecture and tour by UC Berkeley professor Marc Treib

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Portrait of a Tree Nell Melcher offers an inspiring day of learning the basics of color mixing and brush strokes while painting a tree of your choice (Point Reyes National Seashore). 415.663.1200, ptreyes.org

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BEFORE

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FA M I LY

A-Camping We Will... Time away can be challenging for children—and parents BY DENVER COLEMAN, PH.D.

I was 10 when I boarded a water taxi headed to Catalina

sending son Hunter off for his first summer at Camp

Island for my first summer at camp. The damp, salty

Tecumseh in New Hampshire. But her husband had at-

air added to my excitement and nervousness. I hadn’t

tended this camp, founded by three Olympic athletes,

been away from home before. The taste of red bug juice

and the Carsons wanted their son to have similar ex-

remains with me to this day, I remember paying rapt

periences. Did Hunter discover new capabilities, make

attention to ghost stories told by a barefooted wilder-

lifelong friends, and learn to compete and be a team

ness man and, yes, the dreaded swimming tests gave

player as his father did? He did, and the success story

me butterflies before I dove in. My trophies became my

is heartwarming.

personal Oscars. At camp I survived and thrived.

Personally, I love what camp does for kids. The en-

Summer’s here again and I wonder aloud, would my

vironment is ripe for personal growth without bullying

daughter love camp as much as I did? My wife, who’s

or violence. As role models, counselors challenge kids

never been to camp, echoes other parents’ concerns

to become more independent and resourceful. A good

about spending weeks without their child. I hear the

camp sets the stage for self-esteem, confidence, and so-

“not” reasons as they begin to surface. “She’s not old

cial skills to blossom.

Dr. Denver suggests:

enough.” “What if she gets homesick?” “I’m not sure camp is safe.” I agree with the concerns about safety.

■

—Dr. Denver Coleman

On the safety front, the American Camp Association

Tecumseh to the noncompetitive feel of Camp Trinity

accredits about 2,400 of the 12,000 summer camps

in Northern California, where Director Kent Collard

in the United States. Their checklist is so comprehen-

observes, “Everyone adds something to our community, just like when it was my grandfather’s farm.”

sive—ranging from background checks to well-thoughtout emergency procedures—that some courts use ACA’s

■

tant to you? What is the director’s experience head-

Obviously it’s reassuring to find a watchdog organiza-

ing up a camp or dealing with young people? What

tion that is so thorough—a feeling of confidence results.

are the staff-to-camper ratios? How are disciplinary

If you’re considering camp for your children, you might

issues handled? ■

check out acacamps.org. As for homesickness, it’s a fact of life; kids get it.

sleepovers as practice sessions. Use self-addressed stamped envelopes and handpicked stationery to

help homesick kids feel better from day one. And they

make writing home an adventure. Stow a surprise

mostly succeed—whether by strenuous exercise and

in the suitcase and send a care package on ahead so

atmosphere of a family-style mess hall. Also effective is

it’s there when your camper arrives. ■

Prevent the preventable: Remind your child not

the dreaded no-phone-calls rule: It keeps kids involved

to directly share food or water. Keep the bugs, sun,

in camp life and gives them a powerful, unspoken mes-

and poisonous plants at bay with a first-aid kit, and

sage that, given time, they can succeed on their own.

be sure to break in boots and shoes before camp.

Preparing parents to not see or hear from a child

By addressing issues up front, you’re teaching your

can be challenging as well. “I was losing control over

child how to be proactive.

what my son was doing and whom he was with,” says

Denver Coleman, Ph.D.’s practice is based in Mill

Deidra Carson of Tiburon, recalling her feelings about

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Will your camper be homesick? If so, offer

As a result, camp directors typically train their staff to

team building or tasty tacos, burgers, and the relaxed

108

Weigh the pros and cons: Is accreditation impor-

guidelines as the standard of care for summer camps.

Valley. Email: DrDenver@marinmagazine.com.

PHOTO: BARBA RA RIES

“I love what camp does for kids. The environment is ripe for personal growth. . . .”

Get the feel of the camp: Camp styles differ, from the friendly rivalry at New Hampshire’s Camp

And I’ll miss her too.

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Need a little retail therapy? Now it’s easier to shop for new mom essentials. It’s a fact. Moms—especially new moms—have less free time than the average person. That’s why Barefoot & Pregnant is the perfect place to shop. You’ll find everything you need in two convenient places, so come into our store at Barefoot & Pregnant or shop online at www.barefootandpregnant.com. Check out what’s in store at Barefoot & Pregnant: • Shop for breast pumps, nursing bras, new baby gifts, diaper bags, skin care and more. • Visit our spa for relaxing body treatments, massages and facials. • Drop in for one of our weekly exercise classes. Get 10% off your first purchase in store, online or in the spa! Offer expires 07/30/05. Please mention promotion code MARJUNE. Barefoot & Pregnant • 1165 Magnolia Avenue • Larkspur • 415.388.1777 • www.barefootandpregnant.com • Gift Certificates available.

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Dermatology 239 Miller Avenue, Suite 8 Mill Valley, (415) 388-0660 Julie Anne Winfield, M.D., a boardcertified dermatologist, offers her patients state-of-the-art medical care with an “old fashioned” approach to the practice of medicine. Dr. Winfield’s practice philosophy is simple: She takes the best possible care of her patients by carefully listening to each person’s concerns, allowing plenty of time for office visits, and recognizing the importance of individualizing patient care. She enjoys treating entire families and offers a full range of dermatological services, including acne, skin cancer treatments, and the latest cosmetic procedures. On her off time, she can be found at Camp Discovery, an international summer camp for kids who have serious skin conditions, where she is medical director and chairperson.

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M I C R O C L I M AT E

Belvedere and Tiburon Happiness on the tip of a peninsula THIS IS A TALE OF TWO CITIES. Make that one city,

communities have a common post office (Belvedere-

BY JIM WOOD

Belvedere, with 2,500 residents, and one town, Tiburon,

Tiburon, 94920), library, sewer system, fire station,

PHOTOS BOB MORRIS

with 10,000 townspeople. “The drive to call Tiburon a

school district, and recreation department.

town, not a city, began over 25 years ago,” explains Marilyn

Frankly, to a casual visitor, as well as many residents,

Kessler, coeditor of the Ark, the area’s weekly newspaper.

it’s hard to tell where the city begins and the town ends.

“Residents wanted to maintain ‘a small community feel-

A collection of upscale shops, a market, and several pro-

ing.’” As for a Tiburon-Belvedere rivalry, Kessler is dismis-

fessional offices—known simply as the Boardwalk—lists

sive: “Actually, we’re one big happy family.”

addresses in both Tiburon and Belvedere. “That’s be-

Though Belvedere and Tiburon each have separate

cause the border cuts diagonally through the Boardwalk

municipal governments, including police forces, the two

buildings,” explains Tiburon Town Manager Alex

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taurants—Sam’s, Servino, Sweden House, Rooney’s, Guaymas—to set up tables and serve dinner alfresco to the surrounding communities. “We did it on a limited basis last year,” says Sam’s owner Steve Sears, “and it was a ton of fun, a real street party.” Another event that draws both communities together is the series of summer concerts—jazz, reggae, folk, Dixieland, pop—staged in leafy Belvedere Park. “They’re simply lovely Sunday afternoon gatherings of families, couples, seniors, and singles—anyone wanting a relaxing way to end the weekend seems to appear,” says Roger Felton, a Belvedere concert organizer. “It’s just one of the things that make this community a really lovely place to live.” The Belvedere-Tiburon area is not without its shortfalls. You can’t get photos developed, a prescription filled, or a tank of gas topped off without driving practically off the peninsula to Strawberry or Corte Madera. Above: Restaurants on

McIntyre, “and other than determining where sales tax

But, surprise! The community has no shortage of real

Tiburon’s Main Street have

revenues go, it’s really not a local issue.”

estate offices. And business is good. “It’s astonishing,”

Further evidence of Belvedere-Tiburon congenial-

exclaims Coldwell Banker’s Polly Johnston, who has

cisco views. Above, right:

ity will be unfolding this summer as that “big happy

been opening and closing local escrows since 1982. “A

Servino specializes in Italian

family” starts regularly sitting down to dinner. Back

fixer-upper under a million-five won’t last past noon

cuisine and also features

in March, the Tiburon town council approved “Friday

on the morning it’s listed.” In general, for a Tiburon-

bayfront dining.

Nights on Main” celebrations from May to October. This

Belvedere area home in move-in condition, prices start

means closing off Main Street and allowing local res-

at two million and go into the stratosphere. Tennis star

patio dining with San Fran-

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Specializing in selling your home

Robert D. Young, J.D. First Marin Realty 415.407.7775

RobertYoungRealEstate.com

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First Marin_ver4.indd 1

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Life for Belvedere and Tiburon residents is among the ﬁnest on the planet.

Above, clockwise: Biking

Andre Agassi’s estate is still listed at $24.5 (he rarely

along Tiburon’s Paradise

occupied it), an eight-acre waterfront compound on

Drive with San Francisco

Paradise Drive is being marketed at a cool $35 million,

skyline in the background.

and the historic Blanding House, perched at the tip of

Sam’s Anchor Café has

Belvedere, is now priced at $68 million.

been on Main Street for

But back on Tiburon Boulevard, life’s not all high

over 75 years. The Sweden

end. At Dave and Mike’s Café, with a sniff of bacon

House, popular breakfast

wafting in the air and a sign in front proclaiming “A Day

and lunch cafe, is also avail-

Care Center for Adults,” the menu offers a “Fire in Your

able for special events.

Belly Scramble” for $5.95. Two doors east, Jeff Knight of Knight’s Hardware, possibly the only small-scale independent hardware store still in existence, claims his

on three sides, a stellar school district, a community

fastest-selling items include bolts and washers costing

foundation endowed with millions of dollars, an in-

less than a nickel apiece, sheets of sandpaper starting at

volved Landmarks Society, and a friendly chamber of

75 cents each, and the solid brass key replacements he

commerce—life for Belvedere and Tiburon residents is

grinds out for $1.25. “When I tell customers the price,

among the finest on the planet.

I get the strangest looks,” he says. “It’s like they’re saying, ‘Nothing this important costs that little.’”

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“I can’t imagine living anywhere else,” says retired architect Peter Berg, as his wife, Ida Mae, nods in agree-

With its enormous appeal—two yacht clubs, sev-

ment. The couple has enjoyed living in Tiburon for 43

eral public and private tennis facilities, an active li-

years, almost all of their married life. “If we didn’t love

brary, San Francisco a 20-minute ferry ride away, plenty

it so much,” Ida Mae adds, “we wouldn’t have lived

of parks, hundreds of acres of open space plus water

here so long.”

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Theresa Coleman PRESIDENTS GOLD AWARD OF DISTINCTION

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Ranch Living Located in west Sonoma County between Guerneville and Occidental, this property consists of 860+/- acres with six legal parcels. The backdrop for these spectacular home sites blends conifer, rolling grasslands, oak woodlands and chaparral. This ranch has several developed streams, a winter waterfall and 20+/acres suitable for vineyard development. A truly unique country experience! Visit: www.bohemiaranch.net.

Offered at: $5,500,000 5980 Bohemian Hwy, Occidental

Sonoma Getaway Vintage mid-50’s ranch home on a beautiful level 1.23+/- acre parcel. Three bedrooms, two baths, great floor plan, hardwood floors, original tile bathrooms, in-ground pool, pool house, barn, shop and large garage. Gorgeous oaks and lots of lawn. Visit: www.100serres.net.

Offered at: $1,195,000 Diane Krause 707.939.2056 dianekrause@fhasonoma.com www.dianekrause.net

The Wine Country Group™ An independently owned and operated office

100 Serres Drive, Sonoma

A Private Refuge... Retreat to this Contemporary Multi-Level Home Adjacent to hiking trails, and amid majestic pine trees, this is your private gateway to outdoor living and recreation. It’s close enough to city life, only minutes from the Mill Valley Golf Club, yet it feels far away. Great for entertaining, the grand living room has soaring vaulted ceilings.Visit: www.10TartonRoad.com. • Kitchen / family room with fireplace

Offered at: $2,295,000

• 4 bedrooms / 4 baths • Legal in-law unit

Judy LeMarr

• Separate office

415.380.4642 jlemarr@fhallen.com www.marindreamhome.com

• Outdoor spa

10 Tartan Road, Mill Valley

• Multiple decks and outlooks

Resort Living at its Finest! Approximately 2.4 Acres Bordering Open Space This one-of-a-kind gated estate affords the best Marin has to offer. Approximate 7500 sq ft floor plan offering true sophisticated elegance. Expansive grounds with pool, outdoor kitchen, playground, putting green and three tees. View an online brochure at: www.546biscayne.com.

Offered at: $5,750,000

• 6 bedrooms, 5 full and 2 half baths • Gourmet kitchen

Alva Falla

• Large media / recreation room

415.257.2069 afalla@fhallen.com www.alvafalla.com

• Master suite with outdoor spa • Au-pair / guest suite • Office / exercise room

546 Biscayne, San Rafael

The above information is deemed reliable but has not been verified by listing broker and is not guaranteed.

www.fhallen.com

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Just a few minutes north of the Golden Gate, yet a million miles away, is Seadrift at Stinson Beach. For over 30 years, Seadrift Company has been the expert in Real Estate sales and premium vacation rentals in Stinson Beach and the private gated community of Seadrift. Call us today to reserve your beach house... for a week, a summer or a lifetime.

VIEW OUR PROPERTIES ONLINE AT WWW . SEADRIFTREALTY . COM AND CALL US AT 415.868.1791 summeradMarinMagFINAL.indd 1

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San Anselmo Sleepy Hollow Estate > Situated on an incredible 62,000 square ft – almost level lot > Beautifully landscaped grounds complete with fountains, lawns, pathways and gardens > Enter through a private, electric gate and circular driveway > House offers four bedrooms, three bathrooms, and faces pool area with access through many french doors > Interior of home shows great sense of style with beautiful beamed ceiling in living room, ﬁreplace and wall of windows > Brand new tennis court being installed > Separate guest cottage and artist studio with rose garden > 2-car carport and ample parking for 10 cars or more

View virtual tour at www.circlepix.com/home/HM6QNL

$2,600,000. Margritha Fliegauf

415.999.7310 cell 415.380.4310 direct mﬂiegauf@aol.com First Marin Realty, Inc. 145 Lomita Drive, Mill Valley CA 94941

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This rare and spectacular property is located on over one flat half acre (per tax records) within minutes of downtown Mill Valley. Architecturally splendid with designer finishes, this magical home has been featured in several magazines and includes a huge lawn area, a new lawn area, lush new trees, plants and flowers galore, 3 large patios & more. For more information and photos, go to www.MarilynRich.com.

$3,395,000

#1 Agent 2004 Greenbrae office Marilyn Rich

415.464.3741 www.MarilynRich.com

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Founding Member of The Marin Group Whitney Rich

415.464.3729 wrich@pacunion.com

5/11/05

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DIALOGUE

Robin Wright Penn What makes you happy in Marin? The peacefulness, which is an oxymoron, because it also drives me nuts sometimes. What gets on your nerves here? It’s not that it’s complacent, but sometimes it’s lacking an edge. Do you have a favorite Marin view? Wow—that’s tough. I guess the view from a friend’s house, at the top of Laurel Grove, in Kentﬁeld. Whom do you most admire? Good people. What has been the most fulfilling moment in your career? Getting over fears. What’s your favorite place to have breakfast? Willie’s Café, in Kentﬁeld. What’s your idea of luxury?

ith a graceful ease, Robin Wright Penn

Sleep.

walks through her home’s lush garden in

What do you value every day?

Central Marin. There’s banging inside—a

My family—how fortunate we are.

room is being remodeled—and assorted workers and a

What person has influenced you the most?

pair of Maltese dogs, Peter Rabbit and Sparky, scam-

Sean. I’ve never thought of that.

per around, but Wright Penn seems to ﬂoat through

What’s a Marin stereotype here that fits?

unscathed. “Before these little guys,” she says, bend-

Oh no, I would make too many enemies. Okay—there

ing down to scoop up Sparky, “we had two big Labs;

are people who are almost arrogant in how politically

they treated the ﬁsh pond like a swimming pool. What

aware they are. Those environmentalists, it’s like ev-

a disaster,” she says with a laugh, settling down near

eryone’s ﬁghting for Jesus. Come on...we can believe

the former canine splash zone.

in multiple things.

Though still a beauty since her ﬁlm breakthrough as

What food makes your skin crawl?

the iconic Buttercup in 1987’s The Princess Bride, Wright

Ultraprocessed food.

Penn shuns predictable roles, instead choosing parts

What food do you love?

“that give me something to do in the craft.” Her latest

Indian.

work is in Empire Falls with Ed Harris, airing in June on

Do you have a favorite Marin trail?

HBO. Settling into a garden chair in front of the com-

From my bathroom to my bed.

fortable Mediterranean-style home she has shared with

What do you like about yourself?

husband Sean and their two children for the past seven

That I am understanding.

years, Robin answers the Marin Questionnaire.

How do you want to be remembered?

You could live anywhere. Why Marin? It was either here or Paris. And Paris is a major ad-

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Robin Wright Penn supports many causes, including

justment. So I’m here. Everybody was in your business

Camp Okizu, a retreat near Oroville designed for children

in Hollywood. I feel like we ﬁt in here because we’re

with cancer and their families. For more detailed informa-

pretty normal.

tion, visit okizu.org.

PHOTO: BARBA RA RIES

For following through.

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BARBARA RIES

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POST & GRANT, SAN FRANCISCO (415) 421-2600 (800) 5-SHREVE

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