Marin Magazine December 2009 by 270 Media

M A R I N

EXTRAORDINARY LIVING

Cocktail Dress. Teddy Bear. Date Night. Some things are just essential.

The Essentials Of Style.™

ABERCROMBIE & FITCH

ANTHROPOLOGIE

APPLE

BANANA REPUBLIC

BEBE

BLUEMERCURY

COACH

GAP

GIGGLE

J.CREW

JANIE & JACK

JUICY COUTURE

KATE SPADE

LACOSTE

LUCKY BRAND JEANS

LULULEMON ATHLETICA

MARTIN + OSA

MICHAEL STARS

POTTERY BARN

PUMA

RESTORATION HARDWARE

SUNDANCE

TRUE RELIGION

WHITE HOUSE | BLACK MARKET

WILLIAMS-SONOMA

THE MARIN STORE

LOCAL ARTISANS AND PRODUCERS

San

20 24 26 28 30 32 34 37 34

Departments

letters

Readers respond to Marin Magazine.

at a glance

Hot tips day by day for the Bay Area.

healthy trends

Skin care for a holiday glow. by somer ﬂaherty

currents

Angel Island shines, a license to give and more.

travel buzz

Christmas at Kona, Tahoe and Napa.

what’s it like?

True tales of extraordinary moments. by jim wood

marinterview

Wicked’s Patty Duke. by mimi towle

fyi

People: Generosity in Marin. by mimi towle

Music: Holiday classics, performed classically. by kristen addicks

Community: Transforming Northgate. by somer ﬂaherty

Elie Tahari tank. 148.00.

The Cover

Loch Lomond Lights, by Marin photographer Barbara Ries. To see more of her work visit barbararies.com, and to purchase a print go to marinmagazine.com/coverart.

46 68

Departments

conversation

Mill Valley CBC newsman John Blackstone. by jim wood go

Tahoe evolves from ski pioneer to destination. by dawn margolis

79 80 92 109 122

snapshots

Out and about, in and around Marin.

calendar

A roundup of performing arts, events, galleries and more.

dine

Dine Out, an insider’s guide to Bay Area eateries. microclimate

Ross: discovering a small town. by daniel jewett looking back

Strawberry’s Baptist seminary. by jim wood

Columns

18 22

view from mount tam

The founders of Marin Magazine welcome you to share their vision. pov

It’s that time of year. by jim wood

EQUALEDONLY BYTHE GREATINDOORS.

After a day in the powder, snuggle up in front of your own cozy fireplace at Lake Tahoe’s newest and most exceptional mountain resort. The Ritz-Carlton Highlands, Lake Tahoe has all the romance of the grand Western lodges of the past, combined with a contemporary Northern California mountain feel. The convenience of ski-in/ski-out accessibility, the thoughtful service of our ski concierge and the variety of exciting family programs make your stay unforgettab le. And after hitting the slopes, you’ll welcome a visit to our world-class spa, followed by innovative California cuisine at Manzanita, created by celebrity chef Traci Des Jardins. If after all this, you can’t bear to leave, stay through the summer and enjoy hiking and biking in the surrounding mountains or playing at Lake Tahoe just minutes away. For reservations and more information, please contact your travel professional, call The Ritz-Carlton at 800-241-3333 or

EDITORIAL

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nikki Wood ext 105 | nwood@marinmagazine.com

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Jim Wood ext 106 | jwood@marinmagazine.com

SENIOR EDITOR Mimi Towle ext 101 | mtowle@marinmagazine.com

EDITOR-AT-LARGE Tim Porter tporter@marinmagazine.com

DEPARTMENTS EDITOR Somer Flaherty ext 103 | sflaherty@marinmagazine.com

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Daniel Jewett ext 116 | djewett@marinmagazine.com

COPY EDITOR/PROOFREADER Cynthia Rubin

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Kristen Addicks, P. J. Bremier, Dawn Margolis, Joanie Wynn

ART

ART DIRECTOR Anne Walzer

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alex French ext 111 | production@marinmagazine.com

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Drew Altizer, Sheri Montgomery, Barbara Ries

ADMINISTRATION

CONTROLLER Maeve Walsh ext 104 | mwalsh@marinmagazine.com

OFFICE MANAGER Linda Reid ext 100 | lreid@marinmagazine.com

WEB

WEB EDITOR Daniel Jewett ext 116 | djewett@marinmagazine.com

Volume 5, Issue 12. Marin Magazine is published in Marin County by Marin Magazine LLC. All rights reserved. Copyright©2009. Reproduction of Marin Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Marin Magazine LLC. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed monthly to homes and businesses in Marin County. Subscription rates are $12 per year. Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Sausalito, CA 94965. Phone 415.332.4800, fax 415.332.3048, e-mail editorial@ marinmagazine.com, website marinmagazine.com.

ADVERTISING

PUBLISHER Lisa Shanower ext 107 | lshanower@marinmagazine.com

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Michele Geoffrion Johnson ext 110 | mjohnson@marinmagazine.com

ACCOUNT MANAGER Leah Bronson ext 109 | lbronson@marinmagazine.com

ACCOUNT MANAGER Stephanie Ericson ext 108 | sericson@marinmagazine.com

ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR Alex French ext 111 | production@marinmagazine.com

REGIONAL SALES OFFICES

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA carolyn ware & associates | Carolyn Ware 415.601.0192

WINE COUNTRY tognetti & associates | Wendy Tognetti 707.544.3643

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA sjl media, llc. | Shana Wong 808-386-0872

NEW YORK

couture marketing | Karen Couture 917.821.4429

HAWAII

destination marketing | Debbie Joseph 808.739.2200

THE MARIN STORE

CONTACT: ADVERTISING MANAGER Lora Dinga ext 120 | ldinga@themarinstore.com

MARIN CUSTOM MEDIA

CONTACT: PUBLISHER Lisa Shanower ext 107 | lshanower@marinmagazine.com

MARINMAGAZINE.COM ADVERTISING@MARINMAGAZINE.COM

THE HOLIDAYS ARE ABOUT HOME, HEART AND SPIRIT—and this issue touches on each. In Home, P . J. Bremier celebrates “A Carriage House Christmas” at the lovely San Rafael home of interior designer Barbara Lavelle and her husband, Jim, whose yuletide tradition includes Christmas Eve chili and a Chevy Chase movie. In FYI People, “Marin Gives!” presents the stories of 13 local people whose generous hearts make Marin a better place for all. And, FYI Music, “Ring in the Holidays,” embraces the spirit of a classical—music, that is—Christmas.

The holiday season is also about snow—even here in Marin. In Journey, “Polé Polé,” Muir Beach resident Joanie Wynn takes us with her to the snows of Kilimanjaro, a Tanzanian trek that is as much about heart as it is about hooﬁng it. Here in California, Dawn Margolis put together a GO, “Tahoe Evolves,” that reports on the makeover of Tahoe skiing and resorts.

You might think we’re stretching if we make a holiday connection with our Think feature, “Boxes on the Bay,” a story about container shipping on San Francisco Bay, but

it’s quite likely that many of the gifts given and received this season made their way into Northern California aboard one of these giant seagoing warehouses. Tim Porter provides the pictures.

Also in this issue, we debut a new department, “What’s It Like,” a compendium of ﬁrst-person accounts by ordinary local people who have done extraordinary things (such as playing tennis with Andre Agassi); Conversation talks with longtime CBS News reporter John Blackstone, a resident of Mill Valley; Marinterview questions actor Patty Duke, who’s living in Greenbrae while performing in Wicked in San Francisco; and FYI Community catches up with the transformation of Northgate.

As always, our wish is for your good reading. Enjoy Marin Magazine , as we continue to celebrate this extraordinary place!

Lisa Shanower, Publisher Nikki Wood, Editorial Director Jim Wood, Executive Editor

Patients

Surgery at Marin General Hospital

With the da Vinci ® Surgical System, surgeons make tiny incisions and operate with improved visualization, precision and control during a variety of procedures. These include hysterectomies and prostatectomies, procedures for uterine ﬁbroids and problems with other pelvic organs, and procedures for reﬂux disease, hernia repair and colorectal problems. Most patients experience less pain and scarring, shorter hospital stays and a quicker return to activities.

Surgeons who perform robotic-assisted surgery at our hospital include:

Richard Altieri-Perez, MD General Surgeon

Patrick Bennett, MD Urologist

Michael Bozuk, MD General Surgeon

John C. Chan, MD Gynecologist

David Galland, MD Gynecologist

Gary Grossfeld, MD Urologic Oncologist

Lizellen LaFollette, MD Gynecologist

K. Jennifer Voss, MD Gynecologist

Uzay Yasar, MD Urologic Oncologist

LETTERS Readers

respond

❯❯ San Quentin’s Death Row

I HAVE NOT read a POV of Jim Wood’s with which I could agree more with than “San Quentin Controversy” (November). I frequently take the ferry and look with dismay at the tragic waste of both human life and taxpayer dollars transpiring there. The death penalty is a red meat, atavistic attempt to make ourselves feel better when we are reviled at our society’s failures. It does not deter crime in the slightest. The practice is pure ﬁnancial folly when the costs of death are weighed against life imprisonment. Shoveling colossal sums of good money after bad, instead of improving education to prevent criminality in the ﬁrst place, is just unbearably stupid. Wood has inspired me to do all I can to halt the building of the “Cadillac” of a death row and to rid this once great state of the barbaric idiocy of the death penalty.

George Janku, via-email

I VEHEMENTLY DISAGREE with Jim Wood’s San Quentin death penalty stand. I do not think anyone can say it does or doesn’t deter murder. At least, not until we try it out “for real.” This means no more 20-year death row stints for guys who’ve raped and murdered ﬁve people, etc. They would get a fair and speedy trial and, if found guilty, they would die the next day or next week. Not in the next decade or two. To Wood, that’s barbaric. To me, it’s fair; it’s cheaper than 50 years in prison; and, what common sense tells me, it will be a deterrent. So let’s give murderous thugs their DNA test, then quickly eliminate them from hurting others and sucking up precious resources!

John Novick, Strawberry

Letters to the editor may be edited for clarity and brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965. Or e-mail jwood@marinmagazine.com.

It’s That Time of Year

Appreciating

Marin and its extraordinary people

BY JIM WOOD

IT IS ME OR DO MOST PEOPLE MULL over what to be grateful for as the holidays approach? A recent ferry ride into San Francisco to catch a Broadway play followed the next day by a scenic drive to West Marin to see the banjo-playing Planetwalker John Francis made me thankful for living in Marin. Having a wide range of things to do—and a variety of places to experience them—is certainly something to appreciate.

I also thought about local people I appreciate—Jeff at the hardware store, Michelle at the deli, Kathleen at the market—and that really got me thinking. Isn’t it Marin’s people, not its scenery or closeness to a big city, that give the county its character? Isn’t that something to be thankful for? Last week I encountered four people who deserve our gratitude over the holidays.

When I met Diane Linn she was outfitted with a silk scarf and stylish eyewear— based on appearances she could be a buyer at Nordstrom. Instead, she is the director of Ritter Center in downtown San Rafael, a nonproﬁt that refers to itself as “Marin’s critical safety net for the homeless and the working poor.”

In matter-of-fact tones, Linn tells me what Ritter Center accomplishes: “Every month, we provide more than 600 families with the food and emergency clothes they need; another 600 take hot showers, do their laundry here and get ready for their day’s activity; and at least 300 a month visit our licensed health clinic— and all of this is free.” Ritter Center has 15 employees, an annual operating budget of $1.4 million and, says Linn with a smile, “We used to be Ritter House, but we’re bigger than that, we’re like a village; so now it’s Ritter Center.”

I met young Cris Jones in the hectic St. Vincent de Paul Society of Marin’s dining room on B Street in San Rafael. She coordinates the nonproﬁt’s 2,000 volunteers. “We’re best known for serving around 350 free meals a day,” she says, surveying the surprisingly cheerful space decorated with quotes from Mother Teresa, Winston Churchill and John Wooden. “But we’re way more than a dining room.

“Upstairs is our Homeless Help Desk where we provide job leads, bus tokens, gas vouchers, short-term rental help, info on where to go with health needs, possible places to sleep for a night and, in November, we even helped people vote.” Cris mixes a cheerleader’s enthusiasm with mature wisdom. “You treat people with dignity and respect,” she says, “and they’ll respond in kind.”

Mary Kay Sweeney, executive director of Homeward Bound of Marin, has worked with the homeless for 30 years. “Our business isn’t to shelter people,” she says. “We want to see people move forward with their lives.” Armed with a doctorate in social change, Sweeney oversees an annual budget of $4.7 million, 60 employees and 1,200 volunteers.

From its freeway-close location in Novato, Homeward Bound operates 12 programs for homeless men, women and children, providing more than 400 beds a night and serving approximately 1,400 people a year. Its lead program is New Beginnings Center, an 80-bed complex where guests can stay for as long as two months. “But they must save 80 percent of what they earn, pay minimal rent and maintain absolute sobriety,” says the rather stern Sweeney, adding (with a smile), “Everyone needs a place to stay, a place to call home.”

Another important Homeward Bound program is Mill Street Center, located in a gritty San Rafael industrial district and run for the past four years by Jerry Green, a 73-year-old retired property manager and city cop. Mill Street is Marin’s only one-night emergency homeless shelter. “If pushed to the limit, using our cots and couches,” says Green, “we can sleep 55, but that’s it, and we often have to turn away people.”

Walking through the center I was struck by how orderly the place appeared. “That’s what we expect of our guests,” Green says. “After all, this is their home.” Green also pointed out that every night a different Marin congregation delivers home-cooked dinners to the people staying at Mill Street. “Those volunteers are incredibly reliable; it’s amazing what they do.” Likewise, it’s incredible what Jerry Green does.

These four people—and those who support them—are something to be grateful for this holiday season. That’s my point of view. What’s yours?

E-mail jwood@marinmagazine.com.

DECEMBER 5-6

Marin Symphony

Stephen McKersie conducts the Marin Symphony Chamber Chorus and Orchestra in festive carols from around the world. Church of Saint Raphael (San Rafael). 415.479.8100, marinsymphony.org

DECEMBER 12

Sausalito Lighted Yacht Parade

It’s a Marin holiday tradition. The bay comes alive with light at the 20th annual lighted yacht parade. Sausalito Yacht Club (Sausalito). 415.332.7400, sausalitoyachtclub.org

DECEMBER 19

Happy Anniversary

More than 400 permanent collection works, including painting, sculpture, media arts, photography, architecture and design, will be on display at the museum’s 75th anniversary. SFMOMA (SF). 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org

DECEMBER 3

Meals on Wheels

Benefit

Enjoy Michelle Schmitt at a concert benefiting Meals on Wheels; proceeds also donated from her CD Christmas on Pine Mountain. 142 Throckmorton (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.org

DECEMBER 12-13

Marin Ballet’s Nutcracker

This classic full-length production, with a surprise second act, features young student dancers, guest and adult performers. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marinballet.org

DECEMBER 25

Merry Christmas

Father Christmas has completed his work for the year and, hopefully, good boys and girls have some fun gifts to open. It is a great day to spend with family and reflect on the year gone by.

DECEMBER 4–6

Point Reyes Holiday Crafts Fair

Pick from handcrafted gifts and enjoy refreshments at this 39th annual event. Delicious fare by Indian Peach Food Company. Dance Palace (Point Reyes Station). 415.663.1075, dancepalace.org

DECEMBER 12

Jackie Payne and Steve Edmondson

Hear soul and blues greats play songs from their new album and see why they make a harmonious team. Mill Valley Masonic Hall (Mill Valley). 415.389.5072, mvmasonic.com

DECEMBER 20

Brian Setzer Orchestra

The former Stray Cat and his band are here to rock your holidays at this seventh annual event. ’Tis the season to “Jump, Jive an’ Wail.” The Warfield (SF). 800.745.3000, thewarfieldtheatre.com

DECEMBER

DECEMBER 11

Hanukkah

The eight-day Jewish festival of lights begins at sundown and runs December 12–18. The first candle of the menorah should be lit at sundown tonight.

DECEMBER 19

Sophie and the Enchanted Toy Shop

Join the Marin Dance Theatre on a magical journey to the Snow Kingdom. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, mdt.org

DECEMBER 31

Masquerade and Ball

Everything from the San Francisco Symphony to the ’80s cover band Tainted Love make this elegant event a great way to start the New Year. Davies Symphony Hall (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org

Winter Skin Care Tips

Local experts weigh in on how to keep your skin glowing all season long

As soon as you turn the heat up inside the skin starts to dry out, but with chilly weather outside, there sometimes isn’t any other option. With winter settling in, we went straight to our local aestheticians to get their top tips for keeping your skin great this season. —somer flaherty

Wear sunscreen Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen 30 minutes before going outside. Stellar Spa owner and aesthetician Dana Vande Weg says wearing daily sunscreen is just as important during the winter as it is any other time of year. “During the winter, lips need extra care too. Be sure to add a lip balm with an SPF included.”

Exfoliate “The biggest mistake people make is that they either under- or over-exfoliate,” says Champagne Salon and Day Spa aesthetician JoAnne Findorak. Exfoliating about three times a week helps the moisturizers you’re using sink in faster and deeper. “Remove those dead, dry skin cells and improve your skin texture,” says Tiburon aesthetician Laura Assiano.

Moisturize As weather conditions change, your skin care routine should too. Find a moisturizer that has a non-clogging oil-based formula like avocado oil, almond oil or primrose oil, rather than water-based, as the oil will create a protective layer on the skin that retains more moisture than a cream or lotion will.

Skip the hot bath Avoid hot baths, says SenSpa aesthetician and Mill Valley resident Gaynor Farmer. Soaking in a hot bathtub feels great when it’s cold outside, but the intense heat of a hot shower or bath actually breaks down the lipid barriers in the skin, which could lead to a loss of moisture. And if you can’t stay out of a hot soak, Findorak says, then it’s important to limit your time.

Nude Awakenings Hydrating Water The eco-organic skin care line, which is packaged in completely recyclable bottles and free of parabens and sulfates, uses prickly pear to lock moisture in and vanilla and rose ﬂoral water to soothe the complexion. Whole Foods (San Rafael). 415.451.6333, nudeskincare.com

Kiehl’s Açaí Organic Skin Care It’s Kiehl’s ﬁrst foray into fully organic skin care with the Açaí Damage-Repairing Skin Care Collection, which utilizes açaí berry to help reduce ﬁne lines and wrinkles, even skin tone, increase luminosity and renew skin vitality. Kiehl’s (Corte Madera). 415.945.9954, kiehls.com

Juice Beauty Age Defying Kit The Green Apple Age Defying Solutions kit includes the Green Apple Cleansing Gel, Green Apple Full Strength Peel, Green Apple Antioxidant Serum, Green Apple Antioxidant Moisturizer and Green Apple SPF 15. The Marin Store (Marin). 888.408.2105, themarinstore.com

ANGEL ISLAND SHINES AGAIN

Erected in the late ’50s by a lonely electrician dismantling a Nike missile site, the holiday lights atop Angel Island—a Bay Area tradition now known as Angel Lights—have overcome a mountain of obstacles. First, then–Governor Pat Brown resolved a money crisis that had darkened the mountaintop; years later, Marin’s George Lucas replaced collapsing equipment with a new system; and in 2001, Lucas again rode to the rescue after the top of Angel Island had been reconﬁgured.

License to Give

What do you get for the person who has everything?

How about a Bay Area special license plate, which will beneﬁt the San Francisco Bay Area Conservancy Program?

Then, in October of 2008, a wildfire ravaged the east slope of Angel Island, wiping out power poles. “All were soon replaced,” says Suzanne Badenhoop, president of the Angel Island Association, “except for those powering the Angel Lights.” Thus in 2008, for the first time in years, the top of Mount Livermore on Angel Island was dark. Enter PG&E. “It’s true,” says spokesperson Katie Romans; “PG&E has donated and is installing a power-saving LED (light-emitting diode) beacon on a 20-foot pole that every year will shine over San Francisco Bay during December.” Included in the $15,000 gift are the 36-inch beacon, five solar panels, a power device and battery storage. “That beacon is like a lighthouse,” adds Badenhoop. “It’s got a ton of LED lights in it.”

The campaign needs 7,500 paid pledges within a year for the special license plate to become a reality. The plates cost more than the typical registration fee and are $50 for a random set of six numbers and letters selected by the DMV or $90 for personalized plates. Money raised will help the conservancy protect open space, restore and protect habitat and wetlands, provide public access and trails, create education centers and protect farmland. For more information, call 877.4SF.BAY1.

EZ-Holiday Cookies

Mill Valley’s Barbara Hazen a former pastry chef has started a new slice and bake cookie dough company; Sables Gourmet. High quality ingredients made locally, sold at most stores in the area. sablesgourmet.com

There’s still time left to get in on the February 20 Marin Dream House Raffle! A $150 raffle ticket gives you the chance to win a brand-new $2 million bayfront home in Larkspur. All proceeds from ticket sales benefit Community Action Marin. 888.999.4540

STOP BY GOODNITE MOON in Corte Madera’s Town Center to say hello to new owner Louise Harrison, who also owns Link Works in the center!

CONGRATS!

The Fort Baker Post-to-Park Transformation Project has won the 2009 Governor’s Environmental and Economic Leadership (GEELA) award, one of California’s most prestigious environmental honors, given to organizations and individuals who exemplify exceptional leadership for protecting and enhancing the local environment while also promoting economic growth.

Mill Valley residents and San Francisco State University faculty Paul Hoover and Maxine Chernoff have been awarded the PEN USA Literary Award for their translation of poetry by the German Romantic poet Friedrich Hoelderlin ( Selected Poems of Friedrich Hoelderlin , Omnidawn Publishing).

San Rafael’s Dominican University of California is receiving an almost $1 million grant from the 2008 Farm Bill to establish the National Ornamentals Research Site, which will focus on understanding and controlling the plant pathogen that causes Sudden Oak Death.

THE ART OF GIFT GIVING

Mele Kalikimaka

“Santa has been spotted learning to stand-up paddleboard in Hawaii at Kona Village!” says Ulrich Krauer, general manager of the Big Island property. Has he ditched his sleigh for a paddleboard? Reindeer for dolphins? Chances are he is just getting in shape for the big day. As is the resort. While there is not yet a completion date for upgrading all hales and common areas, improvements have been happening quietly on the property. Luckily for Santa and other beachgoers, the coveted black sands and turquoise water of Kahawai Bay remain untouched. To encourage family travel, the property is offering a “Togethering” package, which includes 50 percent off a second hale and meals (of equal or lesser value), canoe use and paddleboard lessons. konavillage.com

Tahoe Celebrates!

❄Noel Nights will set the Village at Northstar a-twinkling December 3, 10 and 17.

The festive evenings include

s’mores toasted under cool winter skies and enjoyed ﬁre side, free iceskating, hot cocoa, carolers and photos with Santa Claus.

Squaw Valley’s Squalidays features Festival of Lights; a holiday torchlight parade down the Mountain Run on December 24 and guided full moon snowshoe tours on the 29th and 30th to give guests the opportunity to create a uniquely mountain holiday memory.

Across the snow-covered Olympic Valley, the Resort at Squaw Creek kicks off the holiday season on November 27 not only with the unveiling of Gingerbread Village and a tree lighting but American ﬁgure skater and Olympic gold medalist Peggy Fleming will be on hand to mix and mingle. December includes breakfast with Santa, live après-ski music, children’s holiday crafts, winter wonderland stories and snowman-making contests.

Tahoe City will be featuring a Town Tree Lighting December 4 at Heritage Plaza, fol-

lowed by a Family Winter Wonderland with refreshments and pictures with Old St. Nick in front of the lake December 5.

Guests enjoy free sledding and a visit from a toy-bearing Santa at the Rotary Santa Sled Day December 13 at Granlibakken Resort.

And, families can still enjoy outdoor s’more making and storytelling at the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe in Incline Village and

this time of year the tales will include a few holiday favorites. Need to burn off the marshmallows? Build an igloo, make snow angels or hike along the lake using the Hyatt’s on-site snowshoes.

For more on Tahoe and other western ski resorts, go to page 68.

Celebrate this annual feast for the senses with fellow Marinites, including San Anselmo costume designer Melissa Wortman and actress Holly Noble of Tiburon (pictured in center at left), December 13–25. yosemitepark.com

12 Days of Christmas

This December Meadowood Napa Valley will be celebrating the Twelve Days of Christmas starting December 4 with a series of holiday feasts pairing world-renowned chefs from across the country with 12 of Napa Valley’s preeminent vintners. Each dinner will beneﬁt the charity Share Our Strength, a group working to end childhood hunger by 2015. In addition to donating 20 percent per ticket, the resort will also give $2,000 in the name of each chef to SOS. A few of the charitable pair-ables includes; Mark Sullivan of Spruce in San Francisco who is matched

up with Chuck and Ann McMinn of Vineyard 29; Josiah Citrin of Melisse in Santa Monica will be cooking to complement the wines of Darioush Khaledi from his namesake winery, Darioush; and celebrity mom/chef Cat Cora representing Bon Appetit magazine will be paired with The Stephens family of Hunnicutt and D. R. Stephens Estate. meadowood.com

To compete in the Hawaii Ironman

BY IAN CHARLES Competing

in the Hawaii Ironman is two parts physical and mental endurance, one part pain management and one part sacriﬁce. There’s also an insanity aspect to toeing the starting line but that’s hard to quantify. I entered the water feeling anxious and nervous about what the day’s 140.6 miles of heat, wind and waves had in store for me. From the looks on the faces of the other athletes, I’m certain they felt the same way. The race began with the shot of a cannon that you felt deep inside your core.

In an instant, almost 2,000 of the best athletes in the world churned the crystal-clear waters into a boiling cauldron and it was every man and woman for themselves. Forget etiquette: the swim was either lead, follow or get out of the way. I settled in for the 2.4-mile swim and watched as the coral reefs and ﬁsh passed beneath me. A little over an hour later I exited the swim to the roar of the crowd and made my way to the bike.

The ﬁrst half of the 112-mile bike leg goes to Hawi along the Queen-K Highway. We had a slight headwind into the turnaround point, which gave me the hope that I’d have a tailwind on the way back. That was wishful thinking, as the winds not only picked up to 20-plus knots but changed direction to give us a headwind on the way back. If the wind wasn’t a problem, the 95-degree heat was. It felt like a furnace blowing hot air with no relief.

This month we launch "What's It Like?" —firstperson accounts from local people doing extraordinary things. Submit your own personal story for consideration in a future issue. E-mail jwood@ marinmagazine.com for guidelines.

After 112 miles on a less-than-cushy seat, I was ready to get off the bike and on to the marathon. Part of me felt encouraged to have two of three legs completed while the other part was contemplating running 26.2 miles in the searing heat and humidity. Now the only thing that stood between myself and the ﬁnish line was a marathon of hot pavement and lava ﬁelds. It hurt as I ticked off the miles but every mile down was one less to go to become an Ironman. I turned onto Ali’I drive to a reception from thousands of spectators. Then I heard those words that until that moment had only been in my dreams: “Ian Charles—you are an Ironman.”

To play tennis with Andre Agassi and Stefﬁ Graf

BY LARRY GOLDFARB

It was surreal. When I play, I’m a pretty good club player. So to get out on Harbor Point’s center court with Andre Agassi and Steffi Graf in front of a few thousand people is mind-boggling. Sure, I was nervous. And I don’t care who you play in real life, when you see how hard those two hit it’s a whole different ball game. Steffi and I had a doubles court and Andre played a singles court. Steffi was up at the net and a number of my serves were as good as any I have ever hit. But Andre ripped it by her like it was child’s play. After that there were a bunch of good hard rallies, but Steffi dumped the ball into the net a few times. So I kidded her, "Come on, Stef, get down and get that ball up." Then she asked, "Do you realize who’s hitting at me?" It just shows the difference between the men’s and women’s game. Because as hard as she hits, and boy she hits it hard—what, 24 or 28 grand-slam titles?—she sometimes could not get it back. It was definitely an out-of-body experience. It taught me the difference between the professionals and the rest of us real mortals. And the difference is enormous!

To meditate for three months

BY PHILLIP

MOFFITT Like most of my dharma teacher colleagues, I try to do an extended mindfulness meditation retreat each year for the beneﬁt of my own spiritual practice. In the fall of 2000, I attended a three-month silent meditation retreat at the Insight Meditation Society in Barre, Massachusetts. My daily routine consisted of waking up at 5 a.m. and beginning to meditate at 5:30 a.m.. I spent the day alternating between sitting and walking meditation practice, breaking only for breakfast, lunch and evening tea. Following evening tea, I would do my assigned yogi task of washing pots, then return to meditating until 11 p.m. The entire time, I and the other 100 or so retreatants were in total silence. As the days passed and I dropped into the stillness, my mind became increasingly concentrated and clear, and less ﬁlled with “normal” thoughts, like planning or fantasizing. I frequently experienced moments of “insight” regarding either some aspect of my personal life or the nature of human life. I repeatedly observed how my mind creates its own suffering and how I always have the choice to let go of the causes of suffering. The overall effect was one of feeling “lighter” and more peaceful, and that I had the genuine possibility of living in harmony with life just the way it is.

Anna Patty Duke Pearce

The petite actress with a long name, along with her husband of 23 years, Michael, and three of their seven dogs (including Seamus, in photo), are renting a home in Greenbrae while she plays the role of Wicked’s Madame Morrible, in San Francisco. At 12 she was the youngest person ever to have her name on a Broadway marquee, for her role as Helen Keller in The Miracle Worker; at 16, she was the youngest to win an Oscar, for the movie version; and by 17 she was starring opposite herself as identical cousins in TV’s Patty Duke Show. Then came babies, iconic movie and TV roles, breakups, breakdowns, marriage(s) and memoirs. While she probably would have rather talked about her family or her activism on behalf of mental health, the Equal Rights Amendment, nuclear disarmament and people with AIDS, we were interested in her story. —M.T.

Having grown up appearing on television, do you have a favorite TV show? We are millenniums from where we were in 1963-45. But Two and a Half Men is so well written, it might be a favorite. I never thought I’d be a prude—but most of these shows are going too far for me.

You were a worldwide teen sensation. Any thoughts on the Lindsay Lohans of today? I ache for those girls. It’s difficult for me because I don’t like to believe what I read, or what someone on TV is saying about them—I don’t know that (information) for a fact, but you hear it so many times. My advice to them would be to trust yourself and trust your instincts. Fame can be such a trap for all young actors. Sometimes we can be misled by trying to please the wrong people.

Was there an outrageous tabloid tale about yourself you remember? First one I thought

of was from (I think) Photoplay magazine. In the years The Patty Duke Show was airing, the editors ran a contest to “find Patty Duke’s father,” knowing full well that he was dead. It ran for three months and then the fourth month…there was a photo of the headstone in the veterans’ cemetery. The headline ran, “We Found Him.” That was low.

Funny tabloid tale? They’re not looking to be funny. Soon after the contest for finding my father, I was pregnant out of wedlock, so we played “Patty Duke and who’s the father?”

To keep myself in good spirits, whenever I went to the supermarkets, I just turned all the magazines around, as if that would help.

During the years of your show, there was a bit of civil unrest in the nation; were you aware of it? I was completely isolated. What I would learn about what was going on in the world came from someone saying, “Hey, did you hear about such and such.” Fortunately, a few of the folks, in particular Bill Schallert, who played Poppo, wanted me to know about the world. He was my mentor in my late teens. This isolation may be one of the reasons I decided to be an activist, at 18 when I went on my own. And then of course I wanted to be like all the other peaceniks—only I wasn’t trained for it. It took some time.

Who do you see in the mirror? Sometimes when I catch a glance of myself in the mirror, I look so much like my mother, I just have a little visit. (And yes, I’m taking my meds.)

What do you like best about your Wicked role? I like that Morrible has her own code of ethics: in her mind she is doing the right thing and her choices are the right choices and we don’t learn until the end that she is the most evil of all. It’s great fun. Actresses like to be evil and dark; she’s light for most of the show and just at the very end she goes dark. I think the audience likes it too; they applaud when I’m dragged away.

A Beautiful Thing to Celebrate

MARIN GIVES!

Where

locals feel their help matters most

Rick

Matt

TOYS FOR TOTS: Left to right; Ross and Marin County ﬁreﬁghters, Jim

and

Besides station-speciﬁc charites, all Marin County ﬁre stations participate in Toys for Tots, a national campaign to distribute toys to needy children.

BY MIMI TOWLE

| As we consider our blessings this holiday season, we’ve asked readers to talk about some of theirs. And for many, being able to give time, money or necessary items to those in need is the best gift of all. Here they describe a few of their favorite local charities.

Popken,

Addicks,

White

Larry Mersereau.

Toys for Tots!

RICK ADDICKS

Engineer, Ross Fire Engine 18, and Local 1775

Board Member, Bel Marin Keys

For over 12 years, I have been a firefighter in Marin County, first as a volunteer in Stinson Beach, and for the last seven years full-time with the Ross Fire Department. Each of Marin’s 13 professional fire departments has a membership association with its own individual projects and favorite charitable causes. Additionally, almost all 400 of us from around the county belong to Marin Professional Firefighters, IAFF Local 1775. Every holiday season, Local 1775 and our individual associations partner with the United States Marines in a Toys for Tots drive, a great program that provides new toys to less advantaged children. Donation bins can be found at every firehouse in the county. If you want to learn more about your particular department’s association activities, don’t hesitate to call or drop by our firehouses and speak to your firefighters. We encourage you to get to know us and what we do. iaff1775.org

City of Dreams

CHELSEA HARDESTY, Tiburon

Iwas inspired by the work that City of Dreams was doing with children living in San Francisco’s low-income housing communities and seeing the positive impact this organization is having on their lives. Founded in 2004 by Mill Valley resident Marty Higgins, CoD has a mission to help these children build brighter futures and to end the generational poverty cycle in San Francisco’s most challenged neighborhoods. Through mentoring and year-round experiential learning events, CoD is helping these kids become caring, responsible adults. I currently serve on the fundraising board and also donate a portion from all transactions of

Toys for Tots In 2008, campaigns were conducted in 657 communities in all 50 states, the District of Columbia, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands. Marines and volunteers distributed over 16.2 million toys to 7.6 million children—it was one of their best years.

my business to CoD. My goal is to bring City of Dreams to the children of Marin County who might need its services. Last year we delivered the joy of the holidays to 585 children and this year we're aiming for 700, so we need your help. Sponsor a family by fulﬁlling wish lists, host a toy bin at your ofﬁce, or make a cash donation. city-of-dreams.org

Homeward Bound of Marin

JEAN

TAYLOR, Mill Valley

Homeward Bound provides shelter to homeless families and adults, along with job training and other services. I’ve been involved with them since 1989, when I joined the Marin County Commission on Homelessness. What inspires me are the personal stories of residents, their courage and resilience, and the dedication and creativity of the staff. For the holidays, they appreciate gift cards for Safeway or other grocers, Gap, Target, casual restaurants, movie theaters or retailers like Crate & Barrel. hbofm.org

Marine Mammal Center

STACY BEZYACK, Sausalito

I’ve been volunteering with the Marine Mammal Center for over eight years. Not only do we rescue and care for stranded seal and sea lion pups, but the researchers’ studies on health issues affecting our patients translates to human health. TMMC needs to purchase a 1,000-gallon aquaculture system to maintain live feeder fish for its young seal and sea lion patients. Teaching malnourished

pups how to eat live ﬁsh helps the rehabilitation process and gets them back out into the ocean quicker. The system costs around $7K. In addition, the Adopt-a-Seal program provides food and care for the patients. marinemammalcenter.org

Marin Agricultural Land Trust

ELIZABETH PTAK , Inverness

As I live in Inverness, I can start each day by looking across Tomales Bay at farmland protected by Marin Agricultural Land Trust. I sometimes wonder what would happen if the land in West Marin were developed. Without the land, there would be no farms. These farmers need help preserving this historic and productive land, which is why I have been a dedicated employee at MALT for 15 years. MALT works with family farmers and ranchers to provide a conservation alternative to the sale or subdivision of their land, but we need everyone’s help. This holiday season, let your friends and family be part of preserving Marin’s beautiful and productive farmland. Give them a “green” gift membership in Marin Agricultural Land Trust, which entitles them to discounts on MALT’s Hikes & Tours to visit Marin family farms. malt.org

Ambassadors of Hope

ZARA BABITZKE, Mill Valley

In 2005, I founded Ambassadors of Hope and Opportunity (AHO) to help stem a national crisis of homeless young adults, who in Marin

County were without families or resources. Since then, AHO has successfully assisted over 775 young adults. We are a grassroots nonproﬁt organization that receives no local, state or federal funding or (help from) the foster youth and mental health funding streams. As such, we rely on the generous donations of individuals, businesses, faith communities and small foundations to achieve our mission. ahoproject.org

Whistlestop

GINNY PRESTON, Mill Valley

Working at Whistlestop, I am rewarded every day with an unexpected smile, a comment, a simple reaction to a compliment. Being an older adult, I know that, for me, pleasure comes from making other older adults feel younger in some way. It’s not that difﬁcult. The Whistlestop mission is all about reaching out to make older adults feel young again, and we do it in so many ways, from social clubs to computer labs to language and yoga classes. As we approach the holiday season, I encourage you all to experience Whistlestop’s Programs and Services. Whistlestop genuinely appreciates adult volunteers who can help older adults live active, productive lives, and to remain independent as long as possible. We can speciﬁcally use your skills as a musician, a greeter, a lunch cashier, a food prep assistant, a fundraising phone caller, a translator for marketing and information materials, or as a teacher to lead a class. thewhistlestop.org

Nancy’s List

CHERYL POPP, Sausalito

Ibecame

involved with Nancy’s List two years ago. It is a community-based support program offering resources for cancer survivors and those who care for them. It ramps up its outreach over the holidays, doing what (participants) do best: taking care of neighbors and those in need. This holiday season we have a few opportunities to get involved: our holiday card program with elementary school classes produces holiday cards that are distributed to cancer patients in the hospitals and at

marin dental wellness Dentistry

Marin Food Bank Besides the holiday food boxes for needy families during Easter, Thanksgiving, Hanukkah and Christmas, this organization provides quality food, the most basic of all human necessities, to people in Marin County who need nutritional assistance throughout the year. For a drop-off location near you go to marinfoodbank.org.

home. Also there’s our fund-a-holiday evening, when many businesses opt to underwrite a night of holiday entertainment — whether it’s a restaurant dinner, a comedy night, music, theater or dance — for cancer survivors who are often stretched for basic survival funds and can’t afford an evening out. nancyslist.org

Ritter Center

DIANE LINN, San Rafael

Inthe spring of 2008, I became the executive director of Ritter Center, the 30-yearold agency that serves working poor and homeless people in Marin. We provide food, clothing, and health and housing programs and (have) established a new commitment to help build self-sufﬁciency and house homeless people. What inspires us to continue is watching families with kids and homeless clients get what they really need. We watch people get better! This holiday season, we need help from the community to support and expand our food and support programs (and are) encouraging people to purchase Family Food Program Gift Cards, which can be used year round. rittercenter.org

Family Service Agency of Marin

BILL DAMON, Novato

Back in 1990, I had no idea when I attended the Suicide Prevention Hotline training that I would be spending every Sunday night for the next 19 years answering crisis

calls. I feel blessed to work with such great people at the hotline. We speak to the part of the callers that wants to live. They call us because they’re searching for a way out of the pain they’re experiencing. At those times, I feel like I’m making a difference. This season some things the Family Service Agency of Marin needs are Northgate Shopping Center gift cards to include in gift bags for child victims of sexual and physical abuse, Target or Kohl’s gift cards to purchase warm winter clothes and shoes, Safeway gift cards for holiday meals for families who otherwise could not afford them, and toys that have been wrapped. fsamarin.org

Sunny Hills

DAWN

ZIERK, Tiburon

Igotinvolved with Sunny Hills because I have seen the amazing transformation of the kids they serve. These are children who were dealt a difﬁcult hand in life and it’s important to give them the opportunity to become productive members of society. This holiday season our wish list is long, consisting of movie theater gift cards; cool apartment stuff (full-length mirrors, IKEA gift cards); video games (Xbox, PS3, PSP); hoodies (for young adult men, sizes L, XL and XXL); new kitchen supplies; new bed linens; iPods, gender-neutral baby gear and, of course, gift cards. sunnyhillsservices.org

WildCare

MARY

BLAKE, San Anselmo

Being able to volunteer at WildCare has given me much more than the time I have devoted to it: self-conﬁdence and strength; work with others toward a common, positive goal; new ways to observe; and the chance to repair some of the damage humans have done to the wild. WildCare leads the way in showing Bay Area people how to live well with wildlife through a complete cycle of respectful, practical and humane programs in wildlife rehabilitation and environmental education. This holiday season we need nuts in shells (no peanuts or pistachios), snugglesafe microwave heat pads, mature pyracantha plants in pots, paper towels, facial tissues, copy paper, unﬂavored Pedialyte, wild bird seed and then, from an extra-generous Santa — a brand–new large-capacity personal computer for website management and video editing; specs available on request. wildcarebayarea.org

Hospice by the Bay

CHERYL WILKINS, Larkspur

Founded as a nonprofit organization in 1975, Hospice by the Bay provides compassionate, high-quality end-of-life care and grief counseling to the communities of Marin, San Francisco, San Mateo and Sonoma counties. I’ve been the volunteer coordinator for over five years and have been inspired by the dedication and commitment. This year, Hospice by the Bay hopes to find more dedicated, caring volunteers to support our vital programs: 1) those who work directly with our patients, families and caregivers at the bedside, offering companionship, practical help, bodywork, music and animal social visits, and 2) those who support our important mission by helping at fundraising events, staffing our Marin thrift stores and used book sales, and doing office work in any of our three sites. As one volunteer told us, “I do other volunteer services, but Hospice by the Bay is the crown jewel.” hbtb.org

Helpful Events

11th Annual Gingerbread House Decorating Party

This fun-ﬁlled event for the whole family includes guidance from pastry chefs, lots of candy, snacks, champagne (and nonalcoholic drinks) and entertainment and, of course, your own beautifully decorated gingerbread house to take home. December 5, at Whistlestop’s own Jackson Cafe, 930 Tamalpais Ave. (San Rafael). 415.456.9062, thewhistlestop.org

Wender Weis Foundation Holiday Heroes

Meet with athletes including Kristi Yamaguchi, Brandi Chastain and Vernon Davis and enjoy a silent auction to help fund the Junior Giants Baseball Program, the 49ers Academy, Raphael House, Holy Family Day Home and the S.F. Child Abuse Prevention Center. Dec. 7, the Golden Gate Club (SF). 650.321.4142, wenderweis.org

Raphael House Shelter Eat, Drink and Be Hopeful

Taste some of the top food and wine the Bay Area has to offer; see a fashion and trunk show. December 9, Ofﬁcers’ Club, Fort Mason (SF). 415.345.7262, raphaelhouse.org

City of Dreams’ Day of Giving

This event helps spread the spirit of the holiday season to children and families who would otherwise go without. December 18 and 19 (SF), city-of-dreams.org

Lifehouse Annual Holiday Party

The local nonproﬁt has been serving developmentally disabled individuals for over 50 years. Bring a scarf to this annual event to help keep the group’s clients warm. December 18, San Rafael Recreation Center (San Rafael). 415.472.2373, lifehouseagency.org

The holidays liven our senses like no other season: the smell of cinnamon and pine needles, the taste of gingerbread and eggnog, the feel of cold air and warm mittens, and the sight of snowmen and ice skates.

Here in Marin, we have several sophisticated musical groups who will share their talents throughout this season.

Ring in the Holidays

Local music groups bring notable cheer BY

KRISTEN ADDICKS

Marin Symphony has been ushering in the holidays with a candlelit concert for nearly three decades. Executive Director Noralee Monestere recounts, “One audience member told me that she brought her children when they were babies. Those kids, now are grown, still come and are bringing their children.” For this family favorite, 30 of the best voices sing carols from around the world. Many songs are sung with choral members dispersed in various locations around the church, lending a stereophonic sound to the music. Purchase tickets early; this concert often sells out. $30 in advance at 415.479.8100, marinsymphony.org

Marin Symphony Chamber Chorus Holiday Concerts by Candlelight Church of Saint Raphael (San Rafael) December 5 & 6

Mill Valley Philharmonic, made up of more than 50 local musicians from all walks of life, will perform a unique concert on the beautiful grounds of Golden Gate Baptist Theological Seminary. The concert is in honor of milestone anniversaries for both groups (Mill Valley Philharmonic celebrates its 10th and Golden Gate Seminary, its 50th). Though you can hear the award-winning orchestra during its regular concert series each year, it’s a rare opportunity to hear them perfom a holiday concert. The show includes mostly baroque Christmas music and traditional sing-along carols. Bring the whole family for this free event.

Mill Valley Philharmonic

Christmas Celebration

Golden Gate Baptist Theological Seminary (Mill Valley) December 6

San Domenico High School’s

Virtuoso Program is priming the next generation of great musicians. This group has been named “best high school orchestra” twice by the American String Teachers’ Association and will compete for the title again in 2010. Young musicians entering San Domenico must audition to be in the program, which has intensive string classes; students often go on to perform at the professional level. This is your chance to hear these rising stars locally and free of charge before they head off to their big competition.

Virtuoso Program Chamber Music Recital San Domenico School (San Anselmo)

December 7

Marin Oratorio has been part of Marin’s musical landscape for close to 40 years. Now it boasts more than 100 talented singers spanning several generations from high school students to octogenarians. They are known for their elegant interpretations of great choral masterpieces, such as “Elijah,” which they will perform this year in honor of the birth of Felix Mendelssohn 200 years ago. Tickets are available at the College of Marin Box ofﬁce, 415.485.9385, marinoratorio.org

Marin Oratorio “Elijah” College of Marin Fine Arts Theater (Kentﬁeld)

December 13 & 14

American Bach Soloists began with the idea of using the best American performers of 17th– and 18th–century music to perform together. Lucky for Marinites, St. Stephens Church in Belvedere is their base. For the last 15 years, American Bach Soloists have kicked off their season with Messiah at San Francisco’s historic Grace Cathedral. This year, they perform Handel’s 1753 version of this oratorio favorite. Tickets range from $20 to $60, with discounts available for children, students and seniors. Purchase at 415.621.7900, americanbach.org

American Bach Soloists Handel’s Messiah Grace Cathedral (SF)

Dec 17 & 18

Northgate Transformation

The newly revamped center gives a boost to the local economy

BY SOMER FLAHERTY PHOTOS TIM PORTER

BJ’s Brewhouse Berry Twist Children’s Place Chipotle Fingers & Toes GameStop GNC Gymboree H&M Hot Topic LensCrafters Northgate Beauty Shop & Salon PacSun RadioShack

Mill Valley–based landscape architect firm Royston Hanamoto Alley & Abey was hired for the project. RHAA principal Manuela King says like most companies her firm felt the effects of the economy, and “to have such a big project, which kept people busy, was great.”

Northgate’s Newest Stores

Featuring new windows running the length of the shopping center, a 60-foot main entrance, a new industrial-looking east side with exposed duct work and steel beams, a new food court and an outdoor plaza showcasing an oldgrowth oak tree, Northgate’s new design has got it feeling like Marin’s own modern Dwellmagazine-worthy version of the Spanish neighborhood zocalo

But renovations don’t come cheap, and $75 million was spent on the 725,000-square-foot property’s transformation from an ’80s enclosed mall to one with more of an open-air environment. However, those millions didn’t just transform an out-of-date mall; they also gave a boost to the local economy during one of the worst ﬁnancial times in recent history.

San Rafael’s city manager estimates the center was bringing in about $1.5 million in tax revenue each year, but as reported in the San Francisco Business Times, Macerich, the Santa Monica–based company that owns Northgate, says it expects Northgate to contribute $600,000 more each year post-remodel. With more than 20 new shops and a modern feel, Northgate is hoping to capitalize on the “if you build it, they will come” theory—in any economy.

SLATED OPENING SPRING/SUMMER 2010

Footlocker, Forever 21, Great Steak & Potato Co., Payless Shoe Source, Roadside BBQ, Shogun Fresh Japanese Grill, Stride Rite, Buckle, Rite Aid’s new location

Macerich downsized the center by 50,000 square feet, replacing the Mervyns wing with an open-air plaza and communitygathering place.

Approximately 175 to 200 people worked on the Northgate renovation; once it is completely open and operating there will be 1,700 people employed.

See’s Candies Shiekh Shoes Sole Desire Subway Sunglass Hut T-Mobile Tilly’s Vans Wetzel’s Pretzels Northgate Jewelers Panera Bread Tomatina Verizon Wireless

JOHN BLACKSTONE

Seen on CBS’s Sunday Morning, he’s also spotted in and around Marin

BY JIM WOOD

AS JOHN BLACKSTONE TELLS THE STORY he and wife Sue were celebrating their anniversary in the wine country. “It was around noon, we were in this gift shop in Healdsburg and two women were raving about what they’d seen on that morning’s edition of CBS’s Sunday Morning,” he recounts. “They couldn’t have said nicer things about the show. They enjoyed every segment, one of which was mine; it was one I was rather proud of.”

So, did the veteran television journalist speak up? Maybe introduce himself? Say that he was party to what they were talking about? Keep in mind, Sunday Morning is one of network television’s longest-running features, watched weekly by over ﬁve million viewers. Did Blackstone consider thanking the women for their effusive compliments? “No, I was just proud to be part of the show,” the Canadian-born correspondent says. “I have been with CBS for 29 years, and

Sunday Morning has been around for 30 years. Together, we’ve covered a lot of territory.”

If CBS’s Sunday Morning isn’t already on your weekend watching schedule, you might consider reviewing a recent Sunday’s lineup of topics (patience, please, it’s a 90-minute show). First came a discussion of legal restraints vs. common

this memory from ’82, during the Israeli invasion of Lebanon. We entered this village in the Baaka Valley that had just been bombed by Israeli jet fighters who claimed they were attacking terrorists. Anyway, after we had walked around the village talking with people, I was sitting in a car writing my script to say in front of

I got a call from the Los Angeles bureau chief saying O. J. Simpson’s wife had been murdered the night before and that I’d better come down to help… Then he added a great understatement: “This one might keep us busy for a couple of days.”

sense featuring examples of both and the author of Life Without Lawyers. Next, the life, loves and ﬂights of Amelia Earhart with clips from the movie Amelia starring Hilary Swank, followed by a brief history of video games and their impact on contemporary society; then a profile of ’50s singer Andy Williams, now 82 and still entertaining; next a piece on why “Nerd Is the New Normal,” by commentator Mo Rocca; a historical look at why our nation’s founders feared banks; reports on the week’s top movie, book, TV show and news story; a jocular jaunt to the national yo-yo championships; and a hiddencamera nature shot, the show’s trademark finale, this time showing bighorn sheep butting heads near Cody, Wyoming.

That’s the good news regarding CBS’s Sunday Morning. The bad news is that in the Bay Area KPIX Channel 5 airs the show at six o’clock on Sunday morning (which is why man invented TiVo and Comcast DVR). We caught up with Blackstone off camera near his Mill Valley home.

Your career has taken you to, among other places, South Africa, Belfast, El Salvador, Nicaragua and Lebanon. Were there any lifethreatening incidents along the way? I have

the camera. I heard a commotion outside and looked to see what was going on. Suddenly, a gun came against my head and one guy shouted, “American bombs killed my family; now I’m going to kill an American.” My ﬁrst thought was to show this guy my Canadian passport. But thankfully, people arrived around him and told him we were reporters trying to tell their side of the story, not hurt them—and everything settled down. However, it might not have ended so well today. Reporting from war zones is much more dangerous than when I did it. We were not targets back then. I don’t do that work anymore, not with two daughters.

You’ve been in San Francisco since 1987. What were some of the big stories you covered? Two years after arriving here, Sue and I were in Toronto visiting my mother when I got a call regarding the Loma Prieta earthquake. I turned on the television to see the Marina on ﬁre and the Bay Bridge down—someone incorrectly identiﬁed it as the Golden Gate Bridge— so CBS authorized a chartered Learjet to get me back as soon as possible to cover that. Two years later I saw the start of another big story right from my deck in Mill Valley—a huge cloud of smoke across the bay. At the same time the phone rang. It was our on-duty editor,

so I just said, “I know, there’s a ﬁre in Oakland, I’m going.” Then, two years after that, I got a call from the Los Angeles bureau saying O. J. Simpson’s wife had been murdered the night before and that I’d better come down to help with the coverage. Then he added a great understatement: “This one might keep us busy for a couple of days.”

Any favorite interviews? Our Sunday Morning interview with Dustin Hoffman was one I enjoyed. He was terriﬁc, great fun. I was very happy to get the story of how he met his wife, who is somewhat younger. I knew I did not want to ask the same questions about ﬁlms and roles that have been asked hundreds of times before. So I simply said, “How did you meet your wife?” And it opened up the whole story about jazz, playing the piano, and her grandmother predicting that someday she’d see him again. At the end—and I don’t know if television caught it— he was brought to tears [television did].

What have been your other recent Sunday Morning segments? In Las Vegas I just interviewed Teller of Penn and Teller. He’s the one who never speaks, so getting him to talk on TV was a coup. We had to shoot him with his mouth in shadow. It’s about his work with a couple of neuroscientists who say magicians understand human perception better than they do. We also did recent segments on the Disney Family Museum, California’s proposed highspeed rail line, the medical marijuana shops in Oakland and houseboats, or ﬂoating homes, in Sausalito, Seattle and Portland.

Is there an overarching message to be gleaned from your work? If there is, let’s put it this way: last year I spent a couple of days at the South Pole with temperatures at minus40 degrees. But I loved it partly because early in my career, I spent a week at the North Pole doing a documentary for the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation. So I can truthfully say reporting assignments have taken me to the ends of the earth, and to every continent.

Boxes BAYON THE

Container ships shape the way we live

Late on a bright, blue-sky fall afternoon, I’m 230 feet above the ground on one those towering cranes you see rising along the Oakland waterfront when driving on the freeway. To get here, I rode three cramped elevators and climbed four skinny ﬂights of wobbly metal stairs. Am I scared? You bet—but I pestered the Port of Oakland to do it and now the port’s spokeswoman is standing next to me, so I fake bravado.

Besides, the view is exhilarating. Far to the west, the Golden Gate Bridge links Marin and San Francisco. Directly across the water, the city skyline juts up from the bay. On either side, the East Bay suburbs extend to the horizon. The expanse is unnerving, so I focus on what’s close—the 1,210 sprawling acres of intermodal efﬁciency beneath me: rail yards with countless strands of rust-colored track; a trucking area, frenetic with activity; stacks three or four high of colorful metal containers; and, of course, the massive oceangoing warehouses known as container ships.

BY JIM WOOD WITH TIM PORTER • PHOTOS TIM PORTER

THE BOX THAT SHRANK THE WORLD

The Port of Oakland’s towering white cranes, easily spotted from nearby freeways, were built in Shanghai and ﬂoated across the Paciﬁc on specially made ships. According to the port’s spokesperson, they cost $7 million each

“What is it about the container that is so important?” asks economist Marc Levinson in his book The Box: How the Shipping Container Made the World Smaller and the World Economy Bigger. “Surely not the thing itself. A soulless aluminum or steel box held together with welds and rivets, with a wooden ﬂoor and two enormous doors at one end: the standard container has all the romance of a tin can.”

Soulless it may be, but the shipping container, as New York University economist William Baumol says, “may be a close second to the Internet in the way it has changed our lives.” Before the first container ship—a refitted tanker—left Newark in 1956 with 58 containers aboard, shipping was expensive and inefficient. Today, because of standardization and technological advances such as the giant gantry cranes in Oakland, shipping is cheap and we take for granted consumer goods whose raw materials read like a U.N. roll call.

‘’It was not routine for shoppers to ﬁnd Brazilian shoes and Mexican vacuum cleaners in stores in the middle of Kansas,” Levinson writes. “Japanese families did not eat beef from cattle in Wyoming, and French clothing designers did not have their exclusive apparel cut and sewn in Turkey and Vietnam.’’

All this merchandise and material travels in a steel box with a standard size—20 feet long, 8 feet wide and, typically, 8.5 feet high. Although longer 40-foot boxes are now commonplace, container ships are still measured in 20-foot equivalent units, or TEUs.

FLOATING BUILDINGS

From a distance, say the shores of Marin or the deck of the Golden Gate Bridge, a container ship’s size can be deceptive, especially when seen against the vastness of the bay. Also, says Lawrence Dunnigan, the Port of Oakland’s

“The ugly, unglamorous shipping container—and the ships that carry them— have literally changed the world. Without them, there would be no globalization, no Wal-Mart, maybe even no high-tech.”

—peter bernstein, against the gods: the remarkable story of risk

Container ships are often stacked eight containers high, with another stack of two or three containers below decks.

“It’s like a 10- or 12-story building heading out across the Paciﬁc Ocean,” says a Port of Oakland executive.

manager of international marketing. What’s visible are containers stacked eight high on a ship’s deck; what’s not are the containers stored down below. “It’s like a 10- or 12-story building heading out across the Paciﬁc Ocean,” he says.

John Cronin of Novato, a retired seaman who sailed for 30 years on container ships—the last 10 as a skipper—echoes that sentiment. “When people see them from the beach, they don’t realize how really big container ships are,” he says. “Trust me, they’re huge.”

Indeed, they are. Cargo ships crossing San

Francisco Bay regularly run as long as three football ﬁelds in length and as wide as a 10-story building. And, they’re getting bigger. One reason the Port of Oakland has deepened its channel from 42 to 50 feet is to accommodate new mega-ships like the NYK Vesta, the largest ever to dock at Oakland. The Vesta, built in 2007 for a Japanese shipping company, can hold 8,600 TEUs and stretches 1,100 feet from bow to stern, almost a quarter mile.

Cronin’s ports of call included Yokohama, Japan; Busan, South Korea; Hong Kong and Shanghai; and Taipei. The journey from the Golden Gate to the Far East averages about 6,000 miles and can take 10 to 12 days at 22 knots (25 mph). Crossing all this open ocean can be harrowing. The sea can be “rebellious and unforgiving,” says Cronin, and although ships and crews are usually safe, cargo can be lost. “Once in the North Atlantic, a ship dropped 40 containers in a hellacious storm,” he says.

Not surprisingly, 40-foot containers of TV sets, tennis shoes, or, worse, toxic materials regularly break free from ships and spill into the ocean. An estimated 10,000 containers go overboard annually, with some sinking to the bottom, some remaining aﬂoat to form shipping hazards and some finding their way onto distant shores (thou-

sands of bags of Doritos tortilla ships from a container washed onto beaches in the Outer Banks of North Carolina in 2006).

Still, as the port spokeswoman Marilyn Sandifur point outs, the percentage of lost containers is small. “Considering that in 2008, more than 153 million 20-foot containers moved across the high seas,” she says, “it’s a very safe way to move massive amounts of cargo.”

THE PORT OF OAKLAND

Ports that responded early to containerization prospered; those that did not failed. It might be hard to imagine, looking at San Francisco’s waterfront of decrepit and disappearing piers, but the city was once a major West Coast cargo port. When containerization took hold in the 1960s, though, San Francisco did not expand to handle the newer, larger ships. Oakland did, and over the years has invested $1.4 billion in high-tech cranes, deeper berths and integrated rail, truck and shipping facilities. As a result, Oakland is the nation’s ﬁfthbusiest container port. It handled more than about $23.2 billion in imports and $9.7 billion in exports last year, all of that contained in 2.2 million TEUs that came and went on more than 1,900 ships. In all, the port moved more than 99 percent of the containerized goods that passed through Northern California, meaning it touches the lives of nearly everyone in the Bay Area.

Common exports include raw materials, recyclable items, and medical and construction equipment, says Sandifur. “There’s a ‘full circle’ of economic activity when you consider that the raw materials and recyclables we export come back to us as ﬁnished products we purchase at Costco, Wal-Mart or J.C. Penney.” The port’s biggest imports, she says, are “everything you’d ﬁnd at a large department store: clothes, shoes, housewares, toys, furniture and small electronic devices such as cameras, cell phones and MP3 players.”

The port’s economic footprint is huge. “According to a study done a few years ago,” says maritime director James Kwon,” we support over 28,000 jobs in our region and more than 420,000 jobs nationwide related to the cargo that moves across the Port of Oakland docks.”

Many of the world’s largest shipping companies have terminals at the port, including Maersk (Denmark), Evergreen (Taiwan), APL (formerly American President Lines, Singapore), Hapag-Lloyd (Germany) and Hanjin (South Korea). Most ships that call at Oakland carry 4,000 to 6,000 TEUs, says Sandifur, enough to ﬁll 2,000 trucks or 20 trains, each pulling 100 ﬂatcars loaded with a 40-

CONTAIN YOURSELF

To truly experience the massive size of container ships, you have to get up close—real close.

The best place to do this is at Middle Harbor Shoreline Park, a 38acre waterfront greenspace built by the Port of Oakland and operated by the East Bay Regional Park District. The park abuts the Alameda Estuary, where you can see container ships, guided by tugs, making the way to the port’s APL and Hanjin terminals.

The opposite end of the park connects to tiny Port View Park, whose pier stretches out into the bay and offers spectacular views. Visit ebparks.org/parks/middle_harbor

You can time your visit to Oakland when ships are coming or going —or try to be on the Golden Gate Bridge when a ship passes beneath—by consulting Hi-Def San Francisco, a web site with real-time locations of all large ships in the Bay Area and offshore. hd-sf.com/livemap

foot container. The gantry cranes can unload containers at the rate of 30 an hour, fast enough to get the typical ship back to sea in 18 hours or less.

The port has 37 of those cranes, costing up to $7 million each. Nineteen were built in Shanghai and shipped here in batches since 2000. Squeezing a boatload of 1,500ton, 230-foot-high cranes under the Golden Gate and Bay bridges is an intricate operation. “Going under the bridges required maximum low tide,” says Sandifur. “Even then, Terry Smalley, the head of our crane department, reached up and slapped the underside of the Bay Bridge.”

One oft-repeated but apocryphal story holds that the cranes, which are painted white to make it easier to spot

“When I’m guiding a 1,000-or-sofoot-long container ship, I want people in the water around me to consider my vessel a ﬂoating metal Alcatraz Island.”

—veteran

bar pilot kip carlson

MATSON’S HAWAIIAN CONNECTION

One of the oldest and most-storied shipping companies with a terminal at the Port of Oakland is the 127-year-old Matson Navigation Company.

Once known for its luxurious Paciﬁc cruises from San Francisco to Hawaii and beyond aboard the S.S. Lurline and her similarly well-appointed sister ships, Matson introduced containerization to the Paciﬁc Coast in 1958 and dropped its passenger service in 1970. Today, the Oakland-based company operates 13 container ships, the longest 722 feet long with a 2,600-container-unit capacity.

“Most of our container ships leave the Port of Oakland heading to Honolulu,” says Bal Dreyfus, vice president of West Coast operations for Matson and a Belvedere resident.

rust, were the inspiration for the Imperial Walkers in George Lucas’s second Star Wars movie, The Empire Strikes Back Not so, Lucas told a Chronicle reporter last year. “That’s a myth,” he said. “That is deﬁnitely a myth.”

NAVIGATING THE BAY

The Port of Oakland is built on one of the world’s greatest natural harbors, but to reach it safely container ships must cross San Francisco Bay, not an easy task. The bay has strong tides and currents, an uneven depth that conﬁnes ships to narrow channels and, of course, fog.

Container ships are guided through this maze by experienced navigators called bar pilots (the term deriving from a treacherous bar of rock, sand and gravel west of the bay). They meet inbound ships 11 miles outside the Golden Gate and guide the craft from there to berth. The process is reversed for outbound ships.

Given the amount of shipping trafﬁc on the bay, serious accidents are rare, but when they do occur the consequences can be tragic. Such was the case on November 7, 2007, when the container ship Cosco Busan left the Alameda Estuary in heavy fog, and while under the command of a bar pilot, hit one of the Bay Bridge’s towers, ripping a gash in the ship and spilling 53,000 gallons of oil into the bay. More than 2,500 seabirds were killed and Bay Area beaches were quarantined for weeks.

Bar pilots can also prevent tragedy. Last January, on a clear afternoon, an inbound oil tanker, the 741-foot

“Hawaii is an island economy that depends on ocean transportation for virtually all of its goods.”

Matson’s Hawaii-bound containers are typically ﬁlled with fresh (and refrigerated) California fruits and vegetables, clothing, furniture, construction materials and automobiles. Matson’s M.V. Mokihana, a combination roll-on/roll-off garage and container ship, can carry up to 1,400 vehicles.

“A Matson ship arrives in Honolulu from Oakland almost every other day,” says Dreyfus, “which allows Hawaiian businesses to use our services as part of their distribution system, which reduces the need for costly warehousing.” Traveling at 22 knots, Dreyfus says, Matson’s ships make Honolulu inside of four days. —J.W.

Overseas Cleliamar, lost power just outside the Golden Gate and was within minutes of crashing into a Marin Headlands cliff when the bar pilot maneuvered the ship precisely to the right depth to drop an anchor and kept the ship from drifting into the rocks.

Ken “Kip” Carlson, a longtime resident of Strawberry in Mill Valley, is a veteran bar pilot and knows well the hazards of the bay. In addition to the natural challenges of tide and fog, there is all the other water trafﬁc, everything from other cargo ships to the numerous ferries, sailboats and, right at the Golden Gate Bridge, darting windsurfers.

“When I’m guiding a 1,000-or-so-foot-long container ship,” Carlson says, “I want people in the water around me to consider my vessel a ﬂoating metal Alcatraz Island.”

Crossing the bay from the Port of Oakland to the ocean buoy that marks the end of the outer shipping channel takes about three hours. “We travel at 12 knots and container ships are especially challenging because there’s often a row of big metal boxes blocking my line of sight,” says Carlson. “Container ships have what’s called a ‘large invisibility sector.’”

Bar pilots rely upon radar, GPS systems accurate to three meters and, yes, foghorns. “Foghorns reconﬁrm your position,” says Carlson.

They also depend on one other navigation tool that ship captains have used for centuries. The best method, says Carlson (only half in jest), for avoiding San Francisco Bay’s many obstacles is “looking out the window.”

CHRISTMAS a carriage house

BY P. J. BREMIER PHOTOS BARBARA RIES

The pretty three-story carriage house

perched on a San Rafael hillside was exactly the cottage-style of home of interior designer Barbara Lavelle’s dreams—an ideal canvas for her stylistic penchant for saturated colors, vibrant patterns, charming chintz and ﬁnishing touches.

P. J. BREMIER

“Personally, I’m drawn to the East Coast cottage– and Southern-style homes,” she says. An interior designer with a long career in Atlanta and now a principal in the San Francisco ﬁrm Punch Design and Staging, Lavelle knew she loved the house right away. “This house called to me and I got to do what I love the most: decorate using bold colors accented with bright white moldings.”

She and her husband, Jim, a developer and operator of large-scale wind and solar power plants, purchased the home two years ago after living in Tiburon for many years and then brieﬂy in Sonoma.

Built in 1911, the original structure was once the carriage house of the Hind Estate, and despite renovations and expansions over the years, the bones of the simple 400-square-foot building can still be seen in the foyer, living room and kitchen.

Today, the home is a spacious retreat of 4,000 square feet spread out over three floors. Downstairs, on the middle level, there are three ensuite bedrooms, each with French doors opening onto a private deck (“it could easily be a B&B”, quips Lavelle), and below that, a finished basement divided between her painting studio and his office.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Barbara and Jim Lavelle relax with their dogs Lulu and Sydney at the front entry; dining room walls are a rich wine color, setting off the festive holiday place setting complete with crystal and gold plates.

On the top ﬂoor are the common rooms—a cozy kitchen, intimate living and dining rooms, and a broad family room with views of the hills and the Richmond–San Rafael Bridge, the Bay Bridge and the East Bay—along with a large deck that extends the home’s entertaining space and has a retractable awning.

The colors and patterns, while used liberally, are actually very carefully composed. The dining room is a wine red and the kitchen and family room a pale ochre, and colorful artwork lines almost every wall. “I’m big into mixing antiques with contemporary pieces in design and I view every open space as an opportunity to display something artistic that reﬂects our style and personality,” says Lavelle.

It’s a look her husband appreciates. “I get to enjoy the colors, the brightness, and the ambience of our home every day,” he says. “It really is such a good feeling to be able to enjoy all of the living spaces that my wife has created.”

Lavelle relies on solids for large furniture pieces and chooses patterns for pillows and small chairs, as punctuation. “I use a lot of pillows,” she says. “I probably have

more pillows than anyone needs, but I change them seasonally. You can change the whole look of a room by changing pillows.”

The Persian rugs, collected over the years, dictate each room’s color scheme, but there’s still plenty of opportunity to play with color by changing out accessories. The living room, for example, had sophisticated turquoise accents this summer but is now dressed in reds for the holidays.

The white molding lets the true essence of the color-saturated walls emerge, Lavelle says, and allows the chocolate-brown paint of the living room to harmoniously coexist with the ebony-stained hardwood ﬂoors. “One wouldn’t think you could do chocolate on a wall with ebony ﬂoors without a room feeling too dark,” she notes, “but it does work if you separate them with white trim.”

The couple kept the existing golden marble countertops in the kitchen but removed one wall to open up the

OPPOSITE: White molding accents the pale ochre-colored walls in the family room and entry.

The colors and patterns , while used liberally, are actually carefully composed. Lavelle relies on solids for large furniture pieces and chooses patterns for pillows and small chairs, as punctuation.

space to the family room. A plate rack custom-built by their son Troy is positioned near the stove to display handmade Italian pottery designed by Lavelle. “I try to talk clients into plate racks because I’m such a fan,” she says. “They give you more space than stacking, they’re great for decorative elements, and they’re convenient.” Another convenience is the built-in Miele coffeemaker. “It’s our favorite item in the kitchen,” she says. “It can be programmed to brew one latte, cappuccino or espresso exactly how you like it.”

The kitchen gets busy during the holidays when ﬁve-year-old grandson Teo helps decorate sugar cookies and on Christmas Eve when Barbara serves up her traditional open-house meal. “It started at our Lake Tahoe house years ago,” she says. “People were arriving at all hours of the day and night so we started serving chili and our famous skillet corn bread. Everyone would come in and have a bowl and we’d talk while they ate.”

RIGHT: Traditional stockings add to the holiday mood.

OPPOSITE: Dark stained cabinets complement the stainless steel cooktop and lightcolored countertops.

After they sold their Tahoe house, she considered changing the menu, but everyone voted to keep the chili-andcorn-bread tradition going. With the grand piano playing old-fashioned Christmas carols on disc, the group of 20-or-so friends enjoy “all the eggnog they want” and gather by the tree to exchange presents. “It’s all very festive and very casual,” she says. Decorating the tree is an annual collaboration between Barbara and Teo. He steps up on the ladder and asks her where each ornament should be placed. “He’s a big help and he knows there’s a method to this madness,” she says with a laugh.

One other Tahoe tradition endures. “While most people watch Bing Crosby (White Christmas),” says Jim, “we like to watch Chevy Chase’s Christmas Vacation —it’s a classic! But, and I know this sounds peculiar, one day after skiing my son and I ﬁxed a sandwich and sat down to watch The Godfather, so whenever it’s stormy outside like it is in Tahoe, that’s what we watch.”

On Christmas morning the Lavelles travel to Mill Valley for brunch and gift-exchanging with Troy, his wife, Jan, and Teo. Troy wears a Santa Claus hat to

2 tablespoons chili pepper

1 teaspoon oregano

B/c teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon garlic powder

2 tablespoons cocoa powder

2 large onions

1 large package of mushrooms, chopped or sliced

B/c clove of minced garlic

distribute gifts, a tradition (and hat) passed on to him by Jim. Afterwards they meet up again at the Lavelles’ home for Christmas dinner.

It wasn’t always that way. For a while, Troy and Jan used to stay overnight at the Lavelles’ in order to open presents with them on Christmas day. Eventually they just started coming over for brunch but, in keeping with tradition, still in their pj’s. Barbara pauses, then chuckles. “It was a little embarrassing for them when they went back home around noon still in their pajamas.”

CHRISTMAS RECIPES

2 pounds ground beef or turkey (or 1 pound of each)

4 cans of red kidney beans

4 cans of diced tomatoes

2 cans of tomato sauce

2 cups of water

BROWN onions, mushrooms and garlic in a large skillet (drain fat if desired). Add meat and brown. Stir in seasonings and water and bring to a boil.

Stir in the kidney beans, tomato sauce and tomatoes. Bring to a boil, let simmer for 10 minutes, then transfer mixture to an ovenproof pot.

1 B/c cups all-purpose ﬂour

C⁄d cup granulated sugar

B/c cup yellow cornmeal

1 tablespoon baking powder

B/c teaspoon salt

1 B⁄e cup milk

2 large eggs

B⁄d cup vegetable oil

3 tablespoons melted butter

PREHEAT oven to 350°.

Bake at 350° for 2 hours or more. Serve with shredded cheddar cheese and/or sour cream. Makes 10 cups.

Combine all dry ingredients in a large bowl.

Combine wet ingredients in a small bowl. Add mixtures together until blended.

Pour olive oil into a black castiron skillet, covering the entire bottom. Carefully heat in the oven at 450° until a water drop sizzles.

Pour mixture into the hot skillet and bake for 20 to 25 minutes. Test with a wooden pick.

Christmas Eve Chili

Barbara’s Skillet Corn Bread

My climb

to

the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro was like childbirth— more difﬁcult and more rewarding than I ever imagined. It required more concentration, stamina and strength than I thought I possessed. I saw no choice but to push through the pain and keep climbing, though in those moments I questioned why I was doing this in the ﬁrst place.

POLE’ POLE’: A JOURNEY OF THE HEART IN TANZANIA

BY JOANIE WYNN

My husband, Steve, and I had been to Africa 12 years before, traveling for six weeks in Kenya, Zimbabwe, Tanzania and South Africa to make a video on eco-lodges. This time, we were off to Tanzania, producing a video for Roadmonkey Adventure Philanthropy.

Started by former New York Times journalist Paul von Zielbauer, Roadmonkey trips combine rugged adventure travel with meaningful volunteer work. Since its inception in 2008, Roadmonkey has led three expeditions and raised more than $30,000 for worthy causes. On this trip, we would ﬁrst climb to the 19,340-foot summit of Kilimanjaro in Tanzania and then complete a volunteer project for Bibi Jann School, a nonproﬁt organization for children orphaned by East Africa’s AIDS epidemic.

Eight of the 10 people in our group were women, among them a graphic artist, a ﬁnancial analyst, a school administrator and a representative from the U.N. There was a 21-year-old student from Denver (nicknamed “Free Spirit”) and a 42-year-old Detroit mom of three (“Mother”).

Despite our differences, we had each chosen to travel across the world in search of an adventure that would stretch our limits physically, intellectually and culturally.

ABOVE FROM LEFT : Porters traversing a steep ravine; Good Luck Charles.

BELOW : Slogging through the muddy rainforest at the lower level.

PHOTOS: STEVE WYNN, PAUL VON ZIELBAUER, CHRISTINE BURKE

The Road to Kilimanjaro

The launching point for our seven-day Kilimanjaro trek was Moshi, a town on the lower slopes of the mountain. We left early on a Sunday and drove several hours through tiny rural townships where simple mud huts stood in stark contrast beside shops displaying bright blue billboards for Vodacom, the local cellular provider. We passed fields of corn, carrots and sunflowers. Chickens scratched amid the dust, dirt and roadside trash. Villagers of all ages carried buckets of water or enormous bundles of wood atop their heads. Brightly dressed women, some with babies strapped to their backs, tended open fires and children ran barefoot toward our bus to see the mzungus (Swahili for white people).

At the ranger check-in station for Kilimanjaro National Park, a huge sign listed health precautions and recommendations. Anyone showing symptoms of acute altitude sickness (dizziness, nausea, vomiting) must descend immediately and seek medical attention, it cautioned. I’d read the warnings sent by our guide company, Tanzania Journeys, yet seeing them repeated in bold on a 50-by50-foot sign made it feel more menacing.

We were in good hands, though. Our guide was only 31, but he possessed an air of

CLOCKWISE FROM UPPER

LEFT : Warning sign at ranger check-in; Joanie and Steve Wynn at Kilimanjaro’s summit with two guides; tents at Atshira Ridge.

quiet wisdom gained in more than 20 years of experience on Kilimanjaro. His name was Good Luck Charles and we joked that we were glad to have good luck on our side.

The road to the trailhead was washed out by heavy rains, but our beat-up Land Cruiser delivered on its off-road promise, navigating through deep muddy ruts and exposed tree roots. Finally, we were ready to hike. For the next week, we followed the Lemosho Route, one of the longest and most remote trails to the summit. But it ascended gradually and gave our bodies time to acclimatize as we passed through the diverse ecological zones of Kilimanjaro.

Day one began with a steady climb through dense rain forest. At places, the ground crawled with a living carpet of huge ﬁre ants. “Careful, step over,” Good Luck cau-

tioned. We were more than happy to oblige, recalling those movie scenes in which some poor soul is devoured by swarms of angry ants and carried away screaming.

We saw black-and-white colobus monkeys swing in the upper branches of trees and came upon large mounds of fresh elephant dung, although the majestic creatures eluded us. Thick gray moss draped the trees and the air was dense, warm and moist. Before long, we peeled off layers and glistened with sweat. Under the shade of a large tree, we gobbled up a simple sack lunch.

As we rested, our porters passed, carrying our backpacks and camping gear, 40 to 50 pounds apiece. While we struggled not to trip over roots or founder in the mud, these men glided over the terrain, sacks of gear balanced on their heads. They aptly called them-

selves Wagumu (hard core) and they earned our awe and respect. They also brought us our ﬁrst Swahili lesson:

Mambo vipi? – “How’s it going?” Poa! – “Cool!”

Four hours of hiking brought us to our ﬁrst campsite, where our tents sat under a thick canopy of trees. We donned headlamps and met for dinner at the mess tent. Togolai, our shy waiter, welcomed us with fresh water for hand washing. Inside, we balanced on tiny triangular camp chairs to savor warm cucumber soup, bread and chicken vegetable stew.

Meal times were a treasure. We laughed at each other and ourselves, sharing travails of the day. All of us were outside of our comfort zones and found solace in the bond of the group.

The Lesson of Pole’ Pole’

The next day we left the rain forest and crossed into the giant heather “moorland,” where there was little shade to protect us from the full strength of the African sun. After only two hours of steep climbing, we tired. Good Luck encouraged us onward. “Pole’ pole’,” he’d say, meaning slowly. Pole’ pole’ is Kilimanjaro’s essential lesson and it became our mantra.

At midday we reached a small cliffside plateau. The porters, who carried four times as much as us and walked twice as fast, had set a lovely lunch table. Enjoying the roasted chicken, boiled eggs and oranges, I looked to the view and to the faces of my new friends and felt a profound sense of gratitude. That afternoon, as we crossed spectacular valleys and streams, the heat was relentless and exhaustion set in. Camp was “just over the next ridge,” our guides said, but that ridge never seemed to arrive. Eight hours passed. I ran out of water and fell far behind the group. Regular hikes in the hills around my Muir Beach home had not prepared me for this. Simon, a muscular guide with a serious demeanor, kept me going, “Just a bit further, pole’ pole’.” This would not be the last time that Simon would get me through.

The destination that evening was Shira Ridge (12,628 feet), which rewarded us with

360-degree views and the sight of Mount Meru, an extinct volcano, off in the distance. Night was clear and cold. The sky sparkled with more stars than I had ever seen. In the morning, thick clouds, seemingly thousands of feet below, extended to the horizon. I felt like Athena on Mount Olympus, living among the clouds turning pink, as the sun came up.

Over the next few days, we ascended through semi-desert, then alpine desert, and scaled boulders up the Great Barranco Wall. We gained stamina and conﬁdence conquering each day’s challenge. At times we chatted and laughed, or practiced our Swahili with the guides. When we struggled, we quieted and focused, pole’ pole’.

As we moved higher, Good Luck became our watchful father, monitoring our health and offering solutions. At day’s end, our porters welcomed us with spirited singing and clapping. We approached the ﬁnal campsite at 15,000-foot Barafu Hut under light snowfall and slept on an exposed ridge. At midnight we woke, donned headlamps, layered up with warm clothing and began the last leg to the summit—a brutal, eight-hour slog up steep rocky terrain. No one spoke. We labored one tiny step at a time. I saw hundreds of tiny headlamps ascending thousands of feet above me. The sight was so discouraging I concentrated on the two feet directly in front of me.

The extreme cold and lack of oxygen took its toll. I nodded, narcoleptic-like, into nanoseconds of sleep. Then I’d snap my eyes wide open, shake it off and say to myself, “wake up!”—all the while walking, walking, walking.

My husband stayed close, providing encouragement—“only two more hours and the sun will be up.” Simon offered to carry my pack. Another guide, Job, walked in front, setting a slow, rhythmic pace and serenading me with soothing song in Swahili.

When sunrise came, the sky glowed blood red and the astounding beauty refreshed me.

At Stella Point just below the summit, I saw the famed glaciers pulsing iridescent blue. During the last few hundred steps to Uhuru Peak, I looked intently at my surroundings, wanting to forever imprint my time on the rooftop of Africa.

As our group reached the summit one by one, we hugged, cried and celebrated. Good Luck beamed and cheered, “Congratulations! You have conquered the mountain!”

Climbing Higher

After such an exhilarating week, we couldn’t imagine an experience to top it, but we headed to Dar es Salaam for the volunteer portion of our adventure.

Dar es Salaam is the largest city in Tanzania and the de facto capital. Its bustling center feels like a circus on steroids. Street vendors hawk everything from sugarcane to cell phones. Driving is chaotic, with cars, trucks, buses, pushcarts, pedestrians and an occasional goat all vying for space.

We traveled in a green-and-purple bus we fondly named the Mystery Bus, partly because of its resemblance to the bus from Scooby Doo and partly because we were never sure when it would arrive. The bus came with a driver and two additional men, who were there for our protection. Dar es Salaam can be dangerous for white tourists and the biggest guy positioned himself in front of the doors as we rode on the crowded streets, making sure no “unintentional” passengers hopped on board.

PHOTOS: STEVE WYNN, PAUL VON ZIELBAUER, CHRISTINE BURKE

The Bibi Jann Children’s Care Center and School is located in Mbagala, a small village on the outskirts of Dar es Salaam. The school was started in 2001 by Fatuma Gwao, a retired teacher who wanted to help some of Tanzania’s almost 1 million AIDS orphans. What started as a one-room preschool has grown to become Bibi Jann Children’s Care Trust, which oversees 130 students, teaches adult literacy, and supports grandmothers (bibis) who care for their orphaned grandchildren with a Bibi-2-Bibi program.

At ﬁrst glance, the school appeared bleak and colorless. Rusty, worn and what looked to be mostly broken playground equipment ﬁlled a dirt courtyard, along with a forlorn stucco giraffe. “Wow”, I thought, “this is so sad.”

Inside, the children had prepared a welcome for us. A group, probably second- or third-graders, stepped to the front of the classroom. A girl and boy began to sing. Their voices were so pure and clear that tears came unexpectedly to my eyes.

Maybe I simply missed my own young son, Ryan, so many miles away, or maybe the purpose of our visit crystallized at that moment. Soon, all the kids were singing and clapping and stomping, acting out a complex set of tribal dances to the intricate rhythms of a small drum.

After the show, the kids rushed out to that rickety playground and I saw how wrong my ﬁrst impression had been. They were having a blast, spinning with abandon on the rotating “whirlybird” and sliding down the wood

plank slide. The giggles and squeals of delight assured me that there was nothing sad about the Bibi Jann School.

A tiny hand grasped mine. I looked down to see a girl of about 4 grinning up at me. We considered each other for a moment and then, seeing that I was nice, a dozen more children crowded around. They held my hand and touched my skin. They stared at my Western clothing and searched my face. I showed them a photo of my son and the children took turns holding the picture. They looked from the photo to me and back. We did the Swahili version of high ﬁve, going to knuckle to knuckle to exclaim “nepitano!” Just like that, we were friends.

Digging In

We divided into groups and started our projects—install a filtration system for clean drinking water, put in a new gas stove, build 30 desks, and paint and decorate ﬁve classrooms. Roadmonkey volunteers work side by side with locals. George, an energetic young kindergarten teacher, directed our classroom project. After two days of prepping, priming and painting, we got to the glory work of adding numbers, letters and drawings to decorate the walls. One elderly villager wandered in and gave us his opinion, which George translated: “He says the bus is no good—you need to draw it better.” Even in this remote corner of the world, you can’t escape a critic.

The days at the school were hot, dusty and tiring. Each day, Fatuma welcomed us

into her home for a traditional meal of rice, beans and vegetables. Sometimes, they added ﬁsh broth or avocado or fresh oranges, always sharing the best of whatever she had. We recognized this as a special opportunity that most tourists never experience.

On the last day, the children ﬁled in and sat at the desks we’d made. The headmaster quizzed them on their letters and we beamed with delight as they recognized our hand-painted drawings of fruits, vegetables and yes, even the bus. We left feeling satisﬁed that we’d left “our school” a bit better for our efforts. The children had new desks and bright classrooms, the bibis had a new stove and everyone had clean drinking water. As we pulled away in the Mystery Bus, the children ran after us, smiling and waving goodbye, an image that will stay with me forever.

From the tallest mountain to the tiniest hand, Tanzania had bestowed its many gifts on us—the bright eyes of children so eager to learn; the bibis so warm and caring; the songs of the porters on the mountain; the bond among us as we struggled and achieved; and, of course, the wisdom of pole’ pole’ that had served us so well.

Bayside Entertainment’s Steve Wynn created video footage of his and Joanie’s Tanzania travel experience. To view, go to marinmagazine.com.

FROM UPPER LEFT : Children in the classroom at Bibi Jann Children’s Care Center in Mbagala; making desks for the school; Steve Wynn gathers children to capture the moment on video.

GO TAHOE EVOLVES

The new Ritz-Carlton Highlands opens early December 2009.

Western ski resorts come full circle

BY DAWN MARGOLIS

Igrew up on skiing. For the better part of two decades my family and I would fly to Colorado for our yearly powder fix. The rental car we all piled into was scarcely big enough to fit five people, let alone all our gear. It didn’t matter that we were wedged in tighter than a Kardashian’s sweater. Because the moment we arrived at the resort, we’d ditch the vehicle until it was time to head home. Everything we needed—gourmet eateries, evening entertainment, boutique shopping and even an emergency room to treat a blown-out knee—we could find without leaving the resort. So when my husband and I relocated to the Bay Area in 1994 and took our first ski trip to Tahoe I was, well, confused. Where were all the shops, restaurants and nightlife? Compared to its Colorado cousins, the infrastructure fell short. Then came the turn of the century.

Over the past seven years Lake Tahoe Ski Resorts have undergone a major renaissance. Beginning in 2001, Heavenly Mountain, then owned by the American Ski Company, began transforming its property from a day ski area to a destination resort.

A base village was created with new hotels, restaurants and shops, with a gondola installed just steps away from all this commerce. Around the same time, Squaw transformed a parking lot into a base village of its own. Then Northstar-at-Tahoe stepped up to the plate, making it the third resort in the area to build a pedestrian-friendly village at the mountain’s base. The ﬁnal phase of the transformation from scrappy ski resort to top-rated vacation destination will be complete this month: a Ritz-Carlton hotel will open mid-mountain, along with an inter-mountain gondola that will connect the nearby Village-at-Northstar to the hotel.

A skier enjoys the powder while taking in the Lake Tahoe view.

It was the development of Lake Tahoe ski areas that helped transform skiing from a fringe sport to an American pastime in the ﬁ rst place.

It’s ironic that Lake Tahoe resorts have had to battle their way back into the hearts of ski enthusiasts, when it was the development of Lake Tahoe ski areas that helped transform skiing from a fringe sport to an American pastime in the ﬁrst place.

It began in 1936 when iconic entrepreneur Walt Disney opened Lake Tahoe’s ﬁrst ski resort, Sugar Bowl. In fact, Sugar Bowl was the ﬁrst ski area in North America to have a gondola and the second to introduce a chairlift. Then in 1949 another visionary by the name

of Alex Cushing poured his blood, sweat and tears into the opening of Squaw Valley. Just ﬁve years later, Cushing submitted a bid to host the 1960s Olympics. Against all odds, Squaw beat out European favorites like St. Moritz and Innsbruck. “These Olympic games were the ﬁrst to be televised,” notes Savannah Cowley, Squaw’s media and public relations representative. “This exposure played a major role in turning skiing into a mainstream sport.”

Soon after, ski resorts began popping up all over the country. Once skiing caught on,

Celebrating 70 years atop Donner Summit with the opening of the new Summit Chair , accessing the Judah Bowl and points beyond…

New in 09/10, the Backcountry Adventure Center featuring professionally guided tours in-and-out of Sugar Bowl with Alpine Skills International.

» Learn more at sugarbowl.com

Ritz-Carlton Highlands

developers realized selling lift tickets wasn’t the only way to make a buck. Vail Mountain, for example, debuted in 1962. Shortly after opening it began pouring money into a base area dubbed Vail Village. The resort grew so rapidly that within six years a second base area called Lion’s Head was built. By the ‘70s

Vail Associates was so ﬂush with cash it was able to create a library, an ice area and even a free transit system to move guests between the two base villages. This new revenue stream appeared to be a winner. In the years that followed, numerous resorts, including Snowbird, Keystone, Jackson Hole and Whistler, developed their own resort villages.

“The term ski resort is somewhat old-fashioned,” observes Ian Galbraith, director of corporate communications for Intrawest, which owns and operates 10 ski resorts in North America, including Whistler and Squaw. “Our

approach is to build an infrastructure that creates a four-seasons resort rather than simply a place (where) people can come to ski.”

Certainly, the recession has slowed Tahoe’s resurgence. Developers have scaled back on the creation of new lodging and retail until the economy rebounds, just as consumers are scaling back on purchasing. Shelling out money for lift tickets this year will deﬁnitely hurt more than usual.

But like many die-hard skiers, I’ll sacriﬁce other luxuries before giving up the sport. And although Colorado will also hold a special place in my heart, I’m delighted to live in a place where I no longer need to ﬂy for my ski vacations. Thanks to all the upgrades happening in the Sierras, I now wedge my own kids into a car packed tighter than a Kardashian’s sweater. But nobody cares. Because once we arrive, we ditch our vehicle until it’s time to head home.

Ritz-Carlton Highlands Sneak Peak ski package includes deluxe room accommodations for three nights and two 3-day adult lift tickets for Northstar Resort. The initial Sneak Peak ski package is valid Dec. 9 to Dec. 18, from $349 per night (threenight minimum). After the holidays the same package is offered from $399 per night. ritzcarlton.com/laketahoe

Squaw Convenient and affordable; the Village at Squaw Valley’s buy three nights and stay the fourth night free package; also includes four days of unlimited skiing for two. squaw.com/winter-packages.

Squaw Valley Lodge is offering a midweek lodging/lift package that includes four nights and then a four-day lift ticket for two at $124 per person, per night. squawvalleylodge.com or squaw.com/win-

ter-packages. Explore other mountains this year while staying at the Resort at Squaw Creek; the resort has paired up with Alpine Meadows Ski Resort. Starting at $155, the package includes deluxe accommodations, breakfast for two, two adult lift tickets for Alpine Meadows and complimentary daily shuttle. squawcreek.com

Sugar Bowl A new chairlift will take skiers and riders to just below the summit of Mount Judah. While skiers and riders can currently access this skiable acreage by hiking, the new lift will allow the resort to maximize usage of its skiable terrain. Accommodations range from family friendly home rentals to the convenient Lodge at Sugar Bowl, where all rooms have complimentary wireless Internet. sugarbowl.com

South Lake Tahoe Year three of Heavenly Mountain Resort’s ten-year master plan includes a new tubing lift, which accesses a new four-lane tubing Mecca at Heavenly’s Adventure Peak family recreation area. Sierra-at-Tahoe Resort has taken a direct shot at the price barrier to learning a new sport in a tough economy with a $35 Learn To Ski/Ride package that includes a limited access lift ticket, rental equipment and a 2.5 hour lesson (Sunday through Friday through the season) Also new this season, Kirkwood Mountain Resort has two new lifts, providing access to 700 additional acres and over 1,350 vertical feet of skiing and snowboarding, accessing the famed chutes of Thunder Saddle along with pristine powder stashes on Fawn Ridge. Buy tickets online ahead of time for great deals. kirkwood.com

GREAT DEALS IN TAHOE

OTHER WESTERN OPTIONS

Mendocino County

PARK CITY, UTAH

Dakota Mountain Lodge and Golden Door Spa is a new 175-room Waldorf Astoria Collection hotel in Park City. Features include the new Frostwood Gondola, offering ski-in/ski-out convenience, and a 16,000–square–foot Golden Door Spa, as well as the on-site restaurant Spruce Park City (country cousin to San Francisco’s award winner headed up by award-winning chef Mark Sullivan). Starting in January the resort is offering a ﬁfth–night–free promotion (some blackout dates apply).

dakotamountainlodge.com

The Canyons is one of the largest ski resorts in the area and draws advanced skiers and boarders with harder terrain than other local resorts. Try the Winter Playland package and choose among a three-day adult lift ticket, two First Tracks Passes (to enjoy the mountain an hour before it opens to the public), a three-day equipment rental, a lesson or a dining credit. Price varies. thecanyons.com

ASPEN, COLORADO

If you’re looking for Austin Powers in Aspen, chances are he’s hanging out at the uber-hip Kimpton property Sky Hotel. In step with the fun decor, the list of specials includes a Ski In Rock Out Ski package starting at $300 and includes a lift ticket per guest for each night’s stay. theskyhotel.com

Indulge your favorite history buff at the Jerome Hotel with three nights in a deluxe king room, a tour of Aspen and the Ashcroft Ghost Town, two Aspen Cruds at the J-Bar and 1889-themed turndown amenities; including silver dollar coins and an old-time photo album. Package starts at $899. hoteljerome.rockresorts.com

BEAVER CREEK, COLORADO

The ultimate for die–hard ski fans, the RitzCarlton Bachelor Gulch has its own high–speed lifts steps from the hotel and sits at the base of Bachelor Gulch Mountain. Take advantage of the well-priced Hit the Slopes package, which includes two adult ski pass-

es good for three days at either Beaver Creek or Vail Mountain. Package starts at $339 a night. ritzcarlton.com

VAIL, COLORADO

The Arrabelle at Vail Square, a luxury hotel (and spa) in the heart of the new Vail Square, just opened last year. Just footsteps from the Eagle Bahn Gondola, the Arrabelle was inspired by the classic grand alpine hotels of Europe. Through the season, all RockResort properties at Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge and Keystone are offering a three-for-free that includes a free third night of lodging, $50 RockResorts gift card or $50 in on-mountain currency plus a free helmet cam (one per reservation). arrabelle.rockresorts.com

IDAHO

Stay and Ski Free. Reserve any number of nights in a standard or medium room at the Sun Valley Lodge or the Sun Valley Inn through March 25 and pay only $94.50 per night, per person. And they will throw in a free lift ticket for every night of your stay. Also except for a few blackout dates, kids stay and ski free. sunvalley.com

MONTANA

Bring the family to the sprawling Resort at Paws Up, which has only 19 accommodations and sits on a cattle ranch. The resort’s Christmas package includes accommodations, all daily meals, your family’s own personal Santa, a decorated Christmas tree (or you can decorate your own) and more holiday goodies. The resort also features an ice skating rink and gingerbread making contest. The ﬁve-night package for two adults and two children starts at $7,376. pawsup.com

OREGON

Bring the entire family to Sunriver Resort, the Northwest’s preeminent ski destination, where kids ski free. Combine this with the stay free, ski free package, which includes three nights of lodging and three days of lift tickets at Mount Bachelor, which works out to about $120 a person a night. Free shuttle to Mount Bachelor. sunriver-resort.com

A.M.Valuable

JOIN ALPINE CLUB FOR JUST

$15 and access $44 Day Specials 4 pack at $220, 6 pack $295 + MORE!

The Alpine Club is Alpine Meadows Ski Resort’s benefits program, in which members receive lift tickets to the mountain for less and on-mountain savings all winter. Season Pass Holders are automatically members.

BRING THE KIDS!

25 % off Sunday-Friday, non-holiday, all day children’s packages Must present this ad to receive discount.

Home of the Jamaican Ski Team Errol Kerr. Alpine Meadows operates in the Tahoe National Forest under a special permit from the Forest Service.

inspired choices for amazing gift giving

Find the right gift for your special someone. We’ve uncovered the best and latest for everyone in your life from moms and dads, to pets, kids and co-workers. Make this holiday season your best.

• Inside Asia Inc. As direct importers we are best known for our high quality Asian antique furniture and accessories at incredible prices! Great Gifts, Jewelry, Textiles, Clothing, and Sacred Items. The Best Kept Secret In Marin! 415.331.3520 insideasiainc.com

• Julianna’s Fine Jewelry in business 25 years in The Village at Corte Madera. This family-owned store provides Swiss watches, one-of-a-kind designs, ﬁne gemstones or fancy cut diamonds, including the Italian designs of the Roberto Coin pieces shown. 415.924.9711, Corte Madera

• Union Street Goldsmith The Client + The Design Team + The Craftsman. It all happens here. This collaboration facilitates the creative atmosphere. The result is evident in our work.

415.776.8048, San Francisco, unionstreetgoldsmith.com

• EVO Spa Give a gift that shows you really care. An EVO Spa Gift Card Renews, Rejuvenates and Nurtures Body, Mind and Spirit. Gift cards available for purchase at spa, by phone or online. 415.383.3223, Mill Valley, evo-spa.com

• Rustic Bakery Elegant gift baskets, nostalgic cut out cookies, old fashioned mason jars full of granola, savory cheese coins, tiny vanilla and chocolate star sugar cookies, gingerbread and decadent handmade chocolate barks to celebrate the holiday season. 415.925.1556, Larkspur, rusticbakery.com

• Alix and Company In the romantic gallery and workshop of jewelry designer Janet Alix you can ﬁnd a treasure out of Aladdin’s trove or an affordable gift with an unusual twist. 415.380.0880, alixandcompany.com

• Stellar Spa Give the gift of relaxation…they’ll love you for it! Stellar Spa gift cards, spa packages, and luxurious bath and body care products are a thoughtful way to say you care to that special someone. 415.924.7300, Corte Madera, stellarspa.com

• Pine Street Papery Holiday cards, gifts and amusements. Calendars, journals, party favors and more. Find a little something for almost anyone on your list and ﬁnd the wrappings too! 415.332.0650, Sausalito

• Link Works Clothing for Life. Mens and Womens apparel: edgy, sophisticated, classic and artistic. Discover Link Works. We have more than you expect. 415.927.9009, Corte Madera

• Sage Gallery Make us your holiday shopping destination ~ featuring items from American artisans and designers. Including: Jewelry, Holiday Ornaments, Table Accents, Art Glass, Handbags, Candles, Silk Scarves, Home Accessories, Letterpress Cards and Orchids. 415.895.1913, Old Town Novato, sageongrant.com

• Pearl Larkspur Personalize your holiday gifts this year with beautiful lace monogram necklaces by Ginette NY, offered in 14K rose, yellow or white gold. 415.464.1808, Larkspur

• The Bar Method Revitalize your spirit and stay fit this holiday season with our challenging one-hour class that will strengthen and stretch your body and refresh your soul. Childcare, DVDs and gift certificates also available. 415.461.4461, Greenbrae, barmethod.com

• Organic Marin This seasonal cookbook celebrates the organic farmers and ranchers of Marin County and the local restaurants who have provided over 40 delicious recipes. marinmagazine.com/organicmarin

• Mirage Jewels presents Janice Carson. We carry her full line of 18K gold, sterling silver, semi-precious stones and much more. Trunk show, December 16, 11am-8pm. Prices from $48. 415.927.3939, Corte Madera

• NewSkin Clinic Best Gift: younger you! Plump your smile lines with Juvéderm + Restylane. Smooth your frowning lines with Botox + Dysport. Shine. Beam. Bloom. Ask Santa for a gift certiﬁcate. 415.945.9555, Corte Madera, newskinclinic.com

Out and About

Mt. Tam Orthopedics invited the medical community and family and friends to their Larkspur ofﬁces to welcome Dr. Brian Su to their practice. Right, Dr. Dave Goltz, Dr. Brian Su, Dr. Robert Byers; above, Dr. Jonathan Goff, Dr. Mike Stock, Dr. Mohammad Diats, David Tenbensel.

Locals gathered for the opening night of the San Francisco Symphony. The evenings highlights included the Symphonix opening night dinner and a performance by pianist Lang Lang. Left, Harlow Ward, Elyssa Thorp; below left, Kelly Grimes, Barry Shotts; below, Michelle Curtis, Christopher Contos.

Recently, at Larkspur’s Gallery Bergelli, owner Robin Critelli welcomed guests to meet and view artist Bryn Craig’s work, which was on display at a reception for the artist. Above top, Bryn Craig, Robin Critelli, Mimi and Neil Burton; above, Chris and Kathy Hartzell.

Michael Stars in The Village at Corte Madera kicked off Breast Cancer Awareness month with a PINK party, featuring pink champagne, pink energy drinks and pink desserts. Left, Maresa Gracely, Jared Ellis, Devon Branam; above left, Cheryl Huang, Belinda Beebe, Debra Mansﬁeld; above right, Emily Cruice, Monica Tateosian, Reyelisa Umali.

DECEMBER ARTS & EVENTS GUIDE

SF Ballet presents Nutcracker December 8–27 at the War Memorial Opera House

THEATER

Thru November 15 Destry Rides Again The classic Hollywood western is transformed into a musical in this 42nd Street Moon production. Eureka Theatre (SF). 415.255.8207, 42ndstmoon.org

Thru 6 The Miracle Worker This Tony Award–winning play is based on the life of Helen Keller. Barn Theatre (Ross). 415.456.9555, rossvalleyplayers.com

Thru 6 Boom An outrageous comedy about the end of the world written by Marin native Peter Sinn Nachtrieb. Marin Theatre Company (Mill Valley). 415.388.5208, marintheatre.org

Thru 13 Jubilee The royal family abandons the throne to pursue their dreams under the threat of revolution in this 42nd Street Moon

production of Cole Porter and Moss Hart’s 1935 hit. Eureka Theatre (SF). 415.255.8207, 42ndstmoon.org

Thru January 24 Ovo Cirque du Soleil returns with a colorful insect ecosystem teeming with life. A cast of 54 performing artists from 13 countries brings the insect world alive with some stunts never before attempted. Grand Chapiteau at AT&T Park (SF). 800.450.1480, cirquedusoleil.com

Thru March 21 Wicked The cultural phenomenon that got its start in San Francisco is back for an extended stay. Orpheum Theatre (SF). 415.512.7770, shnsf.com

3–27 A Christmas Carol It wouldn’t be the holidays without this classic from Charles Dickens. American Conservatory Theater (SF). 415.749.2228, act-sf.org

9–January 3 The 39 Steps The Alfred Hitchcock masterpiece comes alive in this face-paced whodunit. Curran Theatre (SF). 415.512.7770, shnsf.com

31 New Wrinkles Enjoy two showings of the middle-age musical comedy by Rita Abrams, Morris Bobrow and Gerald Nachman. Seafood Peddler (San Rafael). 415.460.6669, murphyproductions.com

COMEDY

Tuesdays Mark Pitta and Friends The comic hosts an evening for up-and-comers and established headliners to work on new material. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

5 Paula Poundstone The comedian’s razorsharp wit has made her a favorite on NPR’s

quiz show Wait Wait…Don’t Tell Me! JCCSF (SF). 415.292.1200, jccsf.org

31 S.F. Comedy Competition Start the new year off with a smile at this event produced by Anne and Jon Fox. Showcase Theater (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marincenter.org

DANCE

Mondays Boomercize Classes This low-impact ﬁtness program features dance steps and music from the American Bandstand hit parade. Marcie Judelson leads the one-hour workout. Presidio Dance Theater (SF). 415.608.4503, boomercize.com

Mondays Disco Dancing This dance party will bring you back to the ’70s and early ’80s when disco was king. Jason’s Restaurant (Greenbrae). 415.945.3206

5 Just Dance Academy Jazz, tap and hiphop performances from the Just Dance Academy teams. Showcase Theater (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marincenter.org

5-6 Stapleton Ballet Nutcracker More than 150 dancers from the Stapleton School of the Performing Arts bring this holiday classic to life. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marincenter.org

8–27 SF Ballet’s Nutcracker The classic is back in San Francisco and directed by Helgi Tomasson. War Memorial Opera House (SF). 415.865.2000, sfballet.org

12-13 Marin Ballet’s Nutcracker This classic story gets a new twist with a surprise second act. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marinballet.org

16–27 Smuin Christmas Ballet Traditional standards combine with new choreography by Amy Seiwert and Robert Sund to create a complete holiday dance experience. Yerba Buena Center for the Arts (SF). 415.556.5000, smuinballet.org

19 Sophie and the Enchanted Toy Shop Join the Marin Dance Theatre on a magical journey to the Snow Kingdom. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, mdt.org

at www.142throckmortontheatre.org General Admission (7:30PM): $20 VIP Reception (6:45PM): $100

19 Tapcracker For the tenth year the Nutcracker’s brother, Tapcracker, laces up his tap shoes for an afternoon of fun and quirky entertainment. Showcase Theater (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, dancewithsherrystudio.com

MUSIC

Tuesdays Swing Fever The band gives tribute to jazz artists and composers, playing selections from its roster of over 1,000 tunes. Panama Hotel (San Rafael). 415.457.3993, panamahotel.com

Thru 2 Otello A tale of jealousy from William Shakespeare as interpreted by Giuseppe Verdi and performed by the S.F. Opera. War Memorial Opera House (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com

3 Meals on Wheels Beneﬁt Michelle Schmitt and her band play a special holiday concert beneﬁting Meals on Wheels. Proceeds from the sale of her new album titled Christmas On Pine Mountain also go to the organization. 142 Throckmorton (Mill

Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

4 J. Tillman The Seattle-based artist is known for his stark recordings accented by poignant lyrics. Great American Music Hall (SF). 888.233.0449, gamh.com

5 The Cranberries All the original members of this breakthrough ’90s band are reunited and back on the road. The Regency Ballroom (SF). 800.745.3000, goldenvoice.com

5 Noëlle Hampton The Mill Valley native and singer performs songs from her new album Thin Line. Masonic Hall (Mill Valley). 415.389.5072, murphyproductions.com

5 Jonathan Richman The former Modern Lover brings his unique and playful style to Marin. 142 Throckmorton (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

5-6 Marin Symphony Stephen McKersie conducts the Marin Symphony Chamber Chorus and Orchestra in festive carols from around the world. Church of Saint Raphael

(San Rafael). 415.479.8100, marinsymphony.org

6 Mill Valley Philharmonic Enjoy free holiday music and carols from the MVP joined by the Golden Gate Seminary. GGS (Mill Valley). 415.3838.8013, millvalleyphilharmonic.org

6 In the Spirit of Lennon Local rocker Drew Harrison channels John Lennon in this educational and entertaining show. Harrison also performs Lennon’s roll in the local Beatles tribute band the Sun Kings. Rancho Nicasio (Nicasio). 415.662.2219, ranchonicasio.com

11 Musae The renowned Bay Area women’s vocal ensemble presents its sixth annual holiday concert entitled “There Is Sweet Music Here.” Old St. Hilary’s (Tiburon). 415.435.1853, landmarks-society.org

9–12 SF Symphony Michael Tilson Thomas conducts Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony, one of the best-known compositions in European classical music. Davies Symphony Hall (SF). 415.503.5500, sfsymphony.org

10 The Great Broadway Sing-along All ages and voices are welcome to join in on classics such as West Side Story, Mary Poppins, Hair and Billy Elliot. JCCSF (SF). 415.292.1200, jccsf.org

10–12 Moments to Cherish More than 45 local singers of the Mayﬂower Community Chorus sing sacred and secular seasonal favorites directed by Daniel Canosa. Showcase Theater (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, marincenter.org

10–13 Yoshi’s San Francisco Jazz guitarist Mike Stern takes the stage with Randy Brecker, Dave Weckl and Tom Kennedy. Yoshi’s (SF). 415.655.5600, yoshis.com

12 Jackie Payne and Steve Edmondson

Hear these soul and blues artists play songs from their new album. Mill Valley Masonic Hall (Mill Valley). 415.389.5072, murphyproductions.com

12 Triskela Celtic Harp Trio An evening of uplifting Celtic, holiday and spiritual music. St. Stephen’s Church (Belvedere). 650.346.7979, ststephenschurch.org

12 Perla Batalla Original music, holiday songs and even some Leonard Cohen from this Los Angeles–based singer. Dance Palace (Point Reyes Station). 415.663.1075, dancepalace.org

12-13 Mendelssohn’s Elijah Marin Oratorio performs the music of Felix Mendelssohn on his 200th birthday. College of Marin (Kentﬁeld). 415.485.9385, marinoratorio.org

13 Sexy Sunday Give it up for the girls. A musicians’ showcase featuring female artists who rock. Peri’s Silver Dollar (Fairfax). 415.459.9910, krickie.com

13 Christmas Jug Band Local musical luminaries put their best judgment on hold for this annual tongue-in-cheek holiday concert. It’s a holiday tradition worth investigating. 142 Throckmorton (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

19-20 The Mother Hips Two night of music from the band formed at Chico State. Guests include Dawes and Dave Gleason and the Golden Cadillacs. Great American Music Hall (SF). 888.233.0449, gamh.com

20 Brian Setzer Orchestra The former Stray Cat and his band and here to make sure your holidays rock at this seventh annual event. The Warﬁeld (SF). 800.745.3000, thewarﬁeldtheatre.com

20 SingersMarin Get in the holiday spirit as the SingersMarin perform seasonal favorites, Christmas carols and Hanukkah songs as well as traditional winter standards. Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6400, singersmarin.org

21-22 Christmas Jug Band Another chance to see this irreverent Christmas band featuring performers such as Austin de Lone, Norton Buffalo, Mike Duke, Maria Muldaur, Angela Streghli and Dan Hicks. Mill Valley Masonic Hall (Mill Valley). 415.389.5072, murphyproductions.com

GALLERIES

MARIN

Art Bar New paintings by Adam Miller. 46 Main St, Tiburon. 415.435.5999, theartbar.us

DISCOVER THE BEAUTY AND ELEGANCE OF NATURE.

TRAVERTINE - MARBLE - LIMESTONE PAVERS - SLATE - GRANITE - GLASS OAKLAND - HOUSTON - TURKEY

WHEN LIVES BECOME FORM: CONTEMPORARY BRAZILIAN ART

Art Abloom Studio and Gallery Artwork on display and classes to help the public develop masterpieces of their own. 1527 San Anselmo Ave, San Anselmo. 415.256.1112, artabloom.com

Art Bar Ongoing work. 46 Main St, Tiburon. 415.435.5999, theartbar.us

Art Works Downtown Annual small works show. Open studios on December 12-13. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119, artworksdowntown.org

Claudia Chapline Gallery Gallery artists thru December 31. 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach. 415.868.2308, cchapline.com

Donna Seager Gallery Leslie Allen, December 16–January 31, 2010. 851 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.454.4229, donnaseagergallery.com

Gallery Bergelli New work by Tim Weldon. 483 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.945.9454, gallerybergelli.com

Gallery Route One Present Work/Past Boxes Work from Marj Stone, thru January 10, 2010. 11101 Hwy One, Point Reyes Station. 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org

Marin Society of Artists Small treasures, thru December 12. 30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Ross. 415.454.9561, marinsocietyofartists.org

In 1960s Brazil, a uniquely tropical art form arose as the country’s artists, fashion designers and architects developed a new creative identity free from the shadow of Western inﬂuence. See new and old examples of the Tropicália movement at this exhibit organized by the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo and curated by Yuko Hasegawa.

Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, thru January 31, 2010 (SF). 415.978.2787, ybca.org

Milk and Honey Art Gallery Work by Melanie Barna, thru December 31. 384 Miller Ave, Mill Valley. 415.383.7580, milkandhoneyartgallery.com

Mona Lease Gallery Painters Auction Purchase work from more than 24 local artists for yourself or to give as gifts this holiday season, thru January 15. 39 Greenbrae Boardwalk, Greenbrae. 415.461.3718, monalease.net

Northbay ArtWorks Rotating exhibits and classes. ArtWorks has more than 4,000 square feet of studio space available to rent. 7049 Redwood Blvd, Ste 208, Novato. 415.892.8188, northbayartworks.com

O’Hanlon Center for the Arts Art of the Spirit Group show, thru December 22. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org

Robert Allen Fine Art Holiday Exhibition and Sale All works are discounted, thru January 22, 2010. 301 Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.2800, robertallenﬁneart.com

Robert Beck Gallery Early California and contemporary plein air paintings on display. 222 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.456.7898, beckgallery.org

Robert Green Fine Arts Group show from gallery artists. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgﬁnearts.com

Sam the Butcher The Vast Remainder Work by Jeffrey Palladini, thru December 11. 19 Ross Common, Ross. 415.902.1019, samthebutcherart.org

Smith Andersen North Subtleties Black and white photography from Paul Brenner. 2240 A Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.455.9733, smithandersennorth.com

Studio 333 Josef and friends every Wednesday. 333A Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.8272, studio333.info

Studio 4 Art Work by local artists at this brand-new gallery and workshop offering materials and classes. 1133 Grant Ave, Novato. 415.596.5546, studio4art.net

Tomales Fine Art Ongoing work from favorite local artists focusing on landscapes. 27050 Maine St, Tomales. 707.878.2525, tomalesﬁneart.com

SAN FRANCISCO

ArtHaus The Fine Art of Designers Group show, thru December 31. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com

Berggruen Gallery Ongoing work. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com

Cain Schulte Gallery Keep Out This Frost Drawings by Justin Quinn, thru December 19. 714 Guerrero St, 415.543.1550, cainschulte.com

UNTITLED BY MAREPE, COURTESY GALERIA LUISA STRINA

Tim Weldon, “The Big Wistle”, mixed media assamblage, 58x52 inches

Tim Weldon

Tim Weldon, “The Big Wistle”, mixed media assamblage, 58x52 inches

LOCAL GIFT BOOKS

BY JIM WOOD

Insalata’s Mediterranean

Table by Heidi Krahling, Laura Parker Studio, 2009, $32. Full of Italian family and food stories, drawings by Laura Parker and David Matheson photography— plus recipes, appetizers to desserts, as served at the popular San Anselmo dining spot named Insalata’s. Also, a foreword by Anne Lamott. Available at the restaurant.

The San Francisco Cliff House by Mary Germain Hountalas, Ten Speed Press, 2009, $24.95. Hountalas has operated the landmark Cliff House for almost 40 years. Her book offers fascinating old photos, posters and postcards. Also included are Sutro Bath stories plus menus (with prices) and recipes passed down through the ages.

City by Design: An Architectural Perspective of the Greater San Francisco Bay Area by Margie Driscoll, AIA, Panache Partners, 2009, $40. Analysis of recent architectural statements, e.g., the Ferry Building Marketplace, California Academy of Sciences, City Hall restoration, and several new Marin structures. Also, the new east span of the Bay Bridge.

Visions of Marin by Richard Blair and Kathleen Goodwin, Color and Light Editions, 2009, $39.95. Discover Marin anew. Color photographs and brief written descriptions, from Marin Headlands to Limantour Beach. Included are shots of Inverness under snow, Stinson Beach on a hot summer day, and the Golden Gate Bridge in all kinds of weather.

Caldwell Snyder Gallery Work by Kelly Reemsten and John Gibson. 341 Sutter St, 415.296.7896, caldwellsnyder.com

Elins Eagles-Smith Gallery Recent abscract paintings by the Massachusetts-born Frances McCormack, thru December 12. 49 Geary St, 415.981.1080, eesgallery.com

George Krevsky Gallery Evolution of a Painter Work by Lawrence Ferlinghetti, thru December 19. 77 Geary St, 415.397.9748, georgekrevskygallery.com

Gregory Lind Gallery Paintings by Don Voisine, thru Dec, 23. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com

Josh Hardy Galleries Early California and American ﬁne art on display. 3350 Sacramento St, 415.345.1832, hardygalleries.com

Meyerovich Gallery Stanley Boxer: Texture and Color Mixed-media works on canvas and paper. 251 Post St, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com

Paul Mahder Gallery Ongoing work. 3378 Sacramento St, 415.515.1210, paulmahdergallery.com

Rena Bransten Gallery Creative Growth, thru January 9, 2010. 77 Geary St, 415.982.3292, renabranstengallery.com

Weinstein Gallery Leonor Fini: Une Grande Curiosité Paintings and drawings. 301 Geary St, 415.362.8151, weinstein.com

MUSEUMS

MARIN

Bay Area Discovery Museum Octopretzel sings in four-part harmony to teach kids the wonder and magic of music, December 5 (Sausalito). 415.339.3958, baykidsmuseum.org

Bolinas Museum The mini show and annual fundraiser features small works from more than 85 local artists (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org

Falkirk Cultural Center The historic Queen Anne Victorian located in the heart of San Rafael is open to the public (San Rafael). 415.485.3438, falkirkculturalcenter.org

Marin History Museum The new exhibit Growing the Future: Farming Families of Marin tells the history of farming in Marin and runs all year (Boyd Gate House). 415.454.8538, marinhistory.org

Marin Museum of Contemporary Art Association of Clay and Glass Artists Exhibition Work from 11 accomplished clay and glass artists, December 5–31. Also, the Small Treasures Exhibition continues thru December 31 (Novato). 415.506.0137, marinmoca.com

BAY AREA

Asian Art Museum Emerald Cities: Arts of Siam and Burma View decorative and religious art from the neighboring countries of Burma and Thailand, historic rivals that share a common aesthetic, thru January 2010 (SF). 415.581.3500, asianart.org

California Academy of Sciences What Is Missing? A new sculpture by renowned artist Maya Lin touches on themes of biodiversity and habitat loss and is part of the artist’s ﬁnal memorial (SF). 415.379.8000, calacademy.org

Conservatory of Flowers The holidays are back and so is the always-popular Golden Gate Express Garden Railway, featuring model trains, miniature gardens and scaleddown models of San Francisco landmarks, thru April 18, 2010 (SF). 415.831.2090, conservatoryofﬂowers.org

Contemporary Jewish Museum There’s a Mystery There: Sendak on Sendak The JCM presents a major retrospective of more than 100 works by famed children’s author and illustrator Maurice Sendak, author of Where the Wild Things Are, thru January 19, 2010 (SF). 415.655.7800, thecjm.org

de Young Tutankhamun and the Golden Age of the Pharaohs After 30 years the boy king is back in San Francisco. The exhibit features more than 130 works from the tomb of Tutankhamun, as well as those of his royal predecessors, his family and court ofﬁcials, thru March 28, 2010 (SF). 415.750.3600, thinker.org

di Rosa Preserve Altered States: The Collection in Context Works related to the mystical, the transcendent and the transformative, thru January 23, 2010. 5200 Carneros Hwy (Napa). 707.226.5991, dirosapreserve.org

Exploratorium Exploratorium After Dark Enjoy cocktails, conversation and adultoriented programming every ﬁrst Thursday, December 3. (SF). 415.397.5673, exploratorium.edu

Legion of Honor Very Postmortem: Mummies and Medicine Irethorrou, the Fine Arts Museums’ mummy who has been on loan since 1944, returns for this exhibit taking a modern and scientiﬁc look at mummies, thru July 4, 2010 (SF). 415.750.3600, legionofhonor.org

SFMOMA The Anniversary Show More than 400 permanent collection works, including painting, sculpture, media arts, photogra-

phy, architecture and design, as well as interpretive and archival materials will be on display celebrating the museum’s 75th anniversary December 19–January 16, 2011 (SF). 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org

EVENTS

3 Angel Lights A new solar-powered LEDlighted tree will come alive during the fourth annual Angel Island Association beneﬁt. Corinthian Yacht Club (Tiburon). 415.435.3972, angelisland.org

4 Tiburon Holiday Festival Enjoy carolers, costumed characters, holiday treats, gingerbread houses, face painting, photos and more at this community celebration. Ark Row (Tiburon).

4–6 Point Reyes Holiday Crafts Fair Pick from handcrafted gifts and enjoy refreshments at this 39th annual event. Dance Palace (Point Reyes Station). 415.663.1075, dancepalace.org

5 Writing Workshop Bring your manuscripts for discussion and critique at this Joyce Maynard workshop. joycemaynard.com

5-6 Quilters Holiday Arts Festival Find something for everyone on your list from more than 30 artists and craftspersons. Muir Beach Community Center (Muir Beach). 415.383.6762, muirbeach.com

5-6 Celebration of Craftswomen More then 15 Marin artists are represented at this holiday event and sale. Herbst Pavilion (SF). 650.615.6838, celebrationofcraftswomen.org

5-6 Art Deco and Modernism Select from furniture, accessories, art, pottery, books, jewelry, vintage clothing and collectibles from 1900 to 1980 at this 25th annual event. Concourse Exhibition Center (SF). 650.599.3326, artdecosale.com

7 Holiday Heroes Meet Kristi Yamaguchi, Brandi Chastain, Vernon Davis, Patrick Willis and more at this Wender Weis Foundation for Children holiday beneﬁt event. The Golden Gate Club (SF). 650.321.4142, wenderweis.org

MSMarin Symphony

Alasdair Neale, Music Director

Glorious Yuletide Melodies

The Sounds You Love To Hear Year After Year

Come, be inspired by the heart-warming Music of the Season featuring Chamber Ensembles of the Marin Symphony with the Marin Symphony Chamber Chorus.

Revel in:

- the rhythms of our string quintet, - the tones of the harp, flute and oboe, - the warm harmonics of our chorus.

Then, in the glow of your lighted candle, join your voice in the audience Sing-Along.

Saturday, December 5, 2009 at 7:30pm

Sunday, December 6, 2009 at 4pm

The Church of Saint Raphael, San Rafael

Open-seating

Tickets $30 per person in advance; $35 at the door.

Order online or call 415.479.8100 www.marinsymphony.org

Stephen

McKersie Choral Director

Coming up at Marin Center

Holiday Concerts by Candlelight

MSMarin Symphony

Concerts made possible by Fireman’s Fund Insurance Company. Candlelight made possible by Wells Fargo.

Violinist Vadim Gluzman Performs Brahms

January 31 & February 2, 2010 at 7:30pm

“Gluzman scored a big success in his CSO debut...His powerful bow arm drew a wealth of silken yet intense sound from his instrument.” Chicago Tribune

Pre-concert at 6:30-7pm, Marin Center

Join Alasdair Neale and author Roger Housden as they explore the capacities of both music and poetry to catalyze change, inspire insight, cultivate wisdom and render peace. Details at www.marinsymphony.org

8 Conversations with Eco-Innovators

Senior Director of U.S. Government Affairs Lisa Handy discusses U.S. policy and global climate change. Cavallo Point (Sausalito). 415.561.3560, instituteatgoldengate.org

10 Pass It On! Telling Your Story So They’ll Listen Kirk Waller of Stagebridge Senior Theatre Company teaches participants how to tell a story to children that they will never forget. The Redwoods (Mill Valley). 415.383.1600, theredwoods.org

11 Huckleberry Youth Programs Beneﬁt high-needs youth and enjoy a performance of Cirque du Soleil’s Ovo. Grand Chapiteau at AT&T Park (SF). 415.668.2622, huckleberryyouth.org

12 Sausalito Lighted Yacht Parade The bay comes alive with light at the 20th annual event. Sausalito Yacht Club (Sausalito). 415.332.7400, sausalitoyachtclub.org

12 Holiday Festival Come by for a bake sale, green sale and teddy bear tea party. Marin Art and Garden Center (Ross). 415.455.5261, magc.org

12 Holiday Bake Sale Support the Pixie Park playground, take photos with Santa and stock up on holiday treats at this annual event. Marin Art and Garden Center (Ross). 415.455.5261, pixiepark.org

12-13 Marin Antique Show Shop from thousands of antiques and collectibles and bring along your own antiques for a free appraisal. Marin Center Exhibit Hall (San Rafael). goldengateshows.com

17 Marin Art School See work from adult students of the Marin Art School at this reception event. Exhibit continues thru January 17, 2010. Marin Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.472.3500, marinarts.org

19-20 Live at the Met Les Contes d’Hoffmann is presented live and in high definition. Lark Theater (Larkspur). 415.924.5111, larktheater.net

25 Friday Forums Get involved, get active and learn more about local issues. The monthly luncheon offers discus-

sions of Marin issues. Jason’s Restaurant (Greenbrae). friday.forums@gmail.com

28 Kid Lit Salon Beginning and established children’s book authors and illustrators are invited to the monthly salon. Book Passage (Corte Madera). 415.927.0960, bookpassage.com

31 Masquerade and Ball Everything from the San Francisco Symphony to the ’8os cover band Tainted Love make this elegant event a great way to start the new year. Davies Symphony Hall (SF). 415.864.6000, sfsymphony.org

NATURE WALKS/TALKS

Ongoing Sonoma History Local actor George Webber morphs into Mark Twain as he retells the history of Sonoma (Sonoma). 707.694.5097, georgewebber.com

1 Marin Sierra Club Enjoy a hike in the Drakes Estero area in Point Reyes. Meet at the Fairfax Parkade at 9:30 a.m. 415.461.9255, sanfranciscobay.sierraclub.org

RETAIL THERAPY

Blissfully Yours Consignment Boutique New stock arrives every day at this recently opened store. Look for women’s apparel, plus sizes, maternity wear, children’s clothing, bridal gowns, ﬂower girl dresses, shoes, jewelry, accessories and home decor items, all in one San Anselmo location. 718 San Anselmo Ave (San Anselmo), 415.459.8978, blissfullyyoursboutique.com

SenSpa The holidays are here and SenSpa has created three unique gift kits featuring combinations of oils and bath salts for only $75 each. 1161 Gorgas Ave (SF), 415.441.1777, senspa.com

The Village at Corte Madera Take photos with Santa thru December 24 and participate in a breakfast with Santa—bring an unwrapped toy for a child or a cash donation for underprivileged families— at the Cheesecake Factory December 12. Call 415.924.8921 to RSVP for breakfast. 1618 Redwood Hwy (Corte Madera), 415.924.8557, villageatcortemadera.com

Sometimes your best insurance is your ﬁre department.

Unfortunately, many ﬁre departments across the country lack the resources they need to fully protect their communities.

That’s why Costello & Sons Insurance and Fireman’s Fund Insurance Company have teamed up and jointly award grants to the Larkspur Fire Department and Tiburon Fire Protection District.

Larkspur FD used their funding to purchase a New Emergency Response Vehicle helping them respond to various emergencies

Tiburon FPD has purchased a State of The Art Training Manikin / Simulator Kit providing realistic, interactive training to the ﬁreﬁghters and paramedics

As part of a social mission dating back to the company’s founding in 1863, Fireman’s Fund® and its network of independent agents, like Costello & Sons Insurance, direct grants and volunteer support to local ﬁre departments and related organizations. Millions of dollars are awarded each year.

Since 1939, Costello & Sons Insurance has worked to protect businesses and families like yours, and is proud to sponsor these grants. To learn more, visit www.costelloandsons.com.

1752 Lincoln Avenue San Rafael, CA 94901 p: 415.257.2100 f: 415.455.1516 costelloandsons.com

Irvine | San Rafael | Sacramento | Santa Barbara

DINE OUT

CORTE MADERA

BENISSIMO Italian Benissimo means “really really good” in Italian. From margherita pizza to veal parmigiana to mocha mud pie, Benissimo serves a taste of Italy in a casual neighborhood venue. 18 Tamalpais Dr, 415.927.2316, benissimos.com

CHAMPAGNE BAKERY French This casual bakery displays fresh-made pastries, croissants, tarts, cookies and cakes, to be enjoyed indoors or out on the patio. Brioche French toast and the French dip sandwich with Swiss cheese are among the many menu options. Catering is also available. 103 Corte Madera Town Ctr, 415.927.5470, champagnebakery.com

IL FORNAIO Italian Sausalito’s Larry Mindel hit a home run with this upscale Italian 23-restaurant franchise. Besides the award-winning breads, pizzas and pastas, the menu boasts a variety of salads and noncarb entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com

IZZY’S STEAKS & CHOP HOUSE American The legendary San Francisco steak house has moved north. Known for great steaks and seafood as well as its ﬁne wine selection, this is a great spot for a group or intimate dinner for two. 55 Tamal Vista, 415.924.3366, izzysrestaurant.com

LA MAISON DE LA REINE Vietnamese A refreshing change amid the plethora of Italian, Mexican and Chinese options. The crunchy cabbage chicken salad with peanuts, fresh spring rolls, and combinations of pho are delicious. 346 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.0288, lmvietnamese-cuisine.com

MARIN JOE’S Italian Pasta and other Italian dishes have been served here for over 50 years. Pick from soup, salad, seafood mesquite-grilled or sautéed meats and over 10 pasta options guaranteed to satisfy. Have a drink and hear local musicians at the well-known piano bar. 1585 Casa Buena Dr, 415.924.2081, marinjoesrestaurant.com

PACIFIC CATCH Pan-Asian This well-priced fresh grill eatery offers a bounty of Pacific Rim —inspired small or main plates, like the generously portioned wasabi bowls filled with rice (white or brown), veggies and your choice of cooked or raw fish, chicken or beef. Modeled after the Paia Fish House on Maui down to the chalk board menu and Hawaiian music. 223 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.3474, pacificcatch.com

P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO Chinese The combination of an attentive staff, lively atmosphere and consistently delicious meals makes for a solid dining experience. Items like the lettuce wraps and Mongolian beef keep the customers loyal.

301 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.413.9890, pfchangs.com

RICK’S WINE CELLAR California This one-room bar and wine shop is located in the same spot where Marin’s ﬁrst wine bar opened back in 1988. Now it’s owned and operated by Marin natives Rick and Candy Mendell, whose customers call it the “Cheers of Corte Madera.” Offerings include a glass, a ﬂight or a bottle, all of which pair nicely with the cheeses, salami and hot paninis. 207 Corte Madera Ave, 415.927.9466, rickswinecellar.com

FAIRFAX

FRADELIZIO’S Italian Home-style comfort food, fresh ﬁsh, and good wine add up to an excellent place for a family night out. 35 Broadway Blvd, 415.459.1618, fradelizios.com

IRON SPRINGS PUB & BREWERY American Grab a beer and a grilled portobello mushroom sandwich—which one Chronicle reviewer calls “the best mushroom dish I have ever tasted”—at the former Ross Valley Brewing Company. 765-A Center Blvd, 415.485.1005, ironspringspub.com

PANCHO VILLA’S Mexican A Fairfax favorite for over 30 years. Since 1976, head chef Francisco has been turning out treats like chile relleno stuffed with jack cheese, cilantro and onion and crab enchiladas topped with a mild tomatillo sauce and sour cream. 1625 Sir Frances Drake Blvd, 415.456.4331, panchosfairfax.com

GREENBRAE

CAFE Z American A pleasant surprise in the Bon Air shopping mall. Dishes like grilled chicken pesto panini and savory crepes have quickly made this intimate spot a local favorite, and inventive meals keep people coming back for more. 282 Bon Air Center, 415.461.9444, cafez.com

JASON’S Italian The restaurant’s Greenbrae location (it was formerly on Andersen Drive in San Rafael) fills the space that was formerly Giorgio’s. A crowd of regulars enjoys creative seafood dishes with Italian flair. Enjoy the ceviche, crab cakes or blackened salmon on the large outdoor covered patio. 300 Drakes Landing Rd, 415.925.0808, jasonsrestaurant.com

WIPEOUT BAR & GRILL American Who says you can’t go back to being a carefree teenager for a night? This family-friendly hot spot has surfboards hanging from the ceiling, fun-in-the-sun music, a full bar and large televisions displaying surfers riding waves. The only thing missing is the sand at this surf-style, upbeat eatery. 302 Bon Air Center, 415.461.7400, wipeoutbarandgrill.com

KENTFIELD

HALF DAY CAFE American A tucked-away setting of intertwining ivy and large open windows makes

the perfect breakfast nook. Serving breakfast, brunch and lunch, the setting is casual and can get crowded on the weekends. The menu includes lattes, exceptional pastries and much more. Dine on the outdoor patio or inside. 848 College Ave, 415.459.0291, halfdaycafe.com

LARKSPUR

E & 0 TRADING COMPANY Southeast Asian New chef Arnold Eric Wong is keeping the restaurant’s innovative plates as tasty as ever. Without reservations, try a spot at the large communal table. 2231 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.925.0303, eotrading.com

EMPORIO RULLI Italian Pastry chef Gary Rulli is renowned for his Northern Italian specialties and treats. The Larkspur location (there are three others) is a popular spot for lunch as well as coffee and a sweet. 464 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7478, rulli.com

LEFT BANK RESTAURANT French Known for award-winning French cuisine and its lively brasserie ambience, this corner spot has rated high with locals for well over a decade. Those with a petite appetite/budget can opt for happy hour (4–6:30 M–F) and enjoy appetizers, all priced under three dollars. 507 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.3331, leftbank.com

PICCO California Chef and celebrated restaurateur Bruce Hill deserves the accolades he has received for this eclectic shared-plate heaven. Dishes like mini-burgers and seasonally driven menu items, along with risotto made every half hour, keep people coming back. The Picco Pizzeria and Wine Bar next door is cozy (not many seats) but already famous for its wood-ﬁred pizzas, great wine selection and soft-serve Straus Family Creamery ice cream. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com

RUSTIC BAKERY California Organic mouthwatering pastries, breads, and sandwiches are on the menu here including Meyer lemon mascarpone danishes and bacon, avocado and heirloom tomato sandwich with mesclun. 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556, rusticbakery.com

TABLE CAFÉ Indian/American Indian-inspired cafe offers a unique menu featuring entirely organic ingredients. Dishes include seasonal salads, incredible soups and fresh juices. The specialty of the house is dosa, ﬁlled with a variety of ingredients and served with savory homemade chutneys. You can also take home a choice of three or four gourmet dinners freshly packed daily. 1167 Magnolia Ave, 415.461.6787

TAVERN AT LARK CREEK American The next chapter in the 1888 Victorian Murphy House is being written by chef Randy Lewis and culinary director Adrian Hoffman. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7766, tavernatlarkcreek.com

THE MELTING POT French Just across the street from the Larkspur Ferry terminal is a round red-brick haven for fondue fans. Share the “Big Night Out” feast featuring chef’s specialties, or

design your own spread with cheese fondue, salad, choice of meat entrée and chocolate fondue dessert. 125 E. Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.461.6358, themeltingpot.com

YANKEE PIER American This family-friendly casual clam shack is harbored in a quaint house built in 1924 as a private residence. Though known for beer-battered ﬁsh’n’ chips, clam chowder and tasty salads, Yankee Pier serves fresh seafood delivered daily from both coasts with special dishes by chef Chris Ball. 286 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7676, yankeepier.com

MILL VALLEY

BALBOA CAFE MILL VALLEY California The San Francisco institution has already become a place to see and be seen in Mill Valley, especially after the 142 Throckmorton Comedy nights. Come for the pan-roasted Alaskan halibut or risotto but stay for the amazing burgers. 38 Miller Ave, 415.381.7321, balboacafe.com

BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and chili-lime “brick” chicken are a few of the satisfying, comfort-food-type menu items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s. The warm dark-wooded bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com

BUNGALOW 44 American Much like sister restaurant Buckeye Roadhouse, Bungalow 44 offers a mean dose of homey carbo- and lipidladen dishes, such as the burger, fried chicken and trufﬂe fries, as well as a few lighter items. The bar is a neighborhood favorite, known for tasty spirits and eye candy. 44 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com

CHAMPAGNE French Enjoy a croque monsieur, linger over a buttery croissant with a cappuccino, or pick up chocolate-dipped strawberries for your next dinner party. All that and more at this French bakery cafe. 41 Throckmorton Avenue, 415.380.0410, millvalley.champagnebakery.com

DIPSEA CAFE Comfort One word: biscuits. This longtime breakfast spot has been serving up tasty pancakes and egg dishes with homemade biscuits since 1986. Try a biscuit with a poached egg, a biscuit with sausage—or just plain butter. Lunch specialties include BLTs and tuna melts and generous Cobb salads. Now serving dinner. 200 Shoreline Hwy, 415.381.0298, dipseacafe.com

FRANTOIO RISTORANTE ITALIANO Italian

Known for its in-house olive press, superior olive oil and excellent Italian cuisine, this is a great location for an intimate dinner, large groups and anything in between. Happy hour starts at 4:30 in the sizable, comfortable bar area, where you can snack on antipasti or order your whole meal. Owned by Roberto Zecca and Chef Duilio Valenti, both from Milano; the kitchen uses local and organic ingredients—it’s the Italian way. For special occasions and private parties, reserve the olive-press room. 152 Shoreline Hwy, 415.289.5777, frantoio.com

HARMONY Chinese Dishes here are an infusion of many ﬂavors. The barbecue pork bun is ﬁlled with house-made roasted meat in a savory sauce; fresh mussels are accented with red chili and Thai basil. Pair your pick with wine, beer or tea. Strawberry Village, 415.381.5300, harmonyrestaurantgroup.com

JOE’S TACO LOUNGE Mexican A longtime local favorite, Joe’s serves up regular fare such as tasty ﬁsh tacos, burritos and enchiladas as well as more unusual items like Mexican pizza, tofu salad, and crab tostados. Colorful interior and (usually) quick service makes this a fun, easy stop. And if there are too many unsupervised kids for a peaceful meal, takeout is easy too. Alone? Grab a magazine and seat at the counter and enjoy the action. 382 Miller, 415.383.8164

LA BOULANGE BAKERY Take your pastries and coffee in a bowl and lounge on the patio for a relaxing morning as you’re practically transported to Paris at this adorable bakery. The staff is professional and friendly. Be sure to try their outstanding breads, as they’ll put your standard sandwich bread to shame. 800 Redwood Hwy, 415.381.1260, baybread.com

LUCINDA’S MEXICAN FOOD Mexican This closet-sized eatery off the highway is treasured by regulars for its friendly service and authentic Mexican food. Ingredients are fresh and burritos are highly recommended. Dining space itself is tiny, so call ahead to bypass the line and bring your mouth-watering meal back to the office. 930 Redwood Hwy, 415.388.0754

MARIA MARIA Mexican The menu at Maria Maria draws from diverse regional cuisines of Mexico, including slow-braised duck tacos, guacamole prepared tableside and Guajillo marinated red snapper filet. 651 E. Blithedale, 415.381.1070. mariamariarestaurants.com

MILL VALLEY COFFEE SHOP American Sure, it could use a steam clean, but the regulars keep coming back for the pancakes and eggs. Great place to bring the kids. 4 Locust Ave, 415.388.6958

PEARL’S PHAT BURGERS American Deemed by the New York Times, as a silver-spoon alternative to a greasy spoon diner, Pearl’s “hipster denizen” (another NYT phrasing) are loyal to the these big juicy -all natural patties (vegetarian, turkey, beef, buffalo or grilled chicken) served up with tasty sides such as garlic, or sweet potato fries, shakes and seasonal fruit whirls (smoothies). Eat-in if you can get a seat, or better yet be a hero make you family (or roommate) happy and take it home for dinner. 8 East Blithedale Ave. 415.381.6010

PIAZZA D’ANGELO Italian It’s always a party at this long-standing hot spot. A great place to meet up with friends for a fresh plate of pasta, zuppa di pesce or pollo novello, or make some new friends at the bar. 22 Miller Ave, 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com

PIATTI RISTORANTE AND BAR Italian The staff prides itself on capturing the warm and

atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria. Try for a table at the window for a truly exceptional view right on the water. Take a peek at the impressive collection of Italian wines to go with your rustic seasonal Italian meal. 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com

ROBATA GRILL AND SUSHI Japanese Robata translates as “by the fireside”; fittingly, food here can be cooked on an open fire and served in appetizer-size portions to pass around the table. Or simply order your own sushi or entree fron the menu. 591 Redwood Hwy, 415.381.8400, robatagrill.com

SMALL SHED FLATBREADS California As a slow food chef, Ged Robertson uses only local, mostly organic ingredients. Crowd favorites include the mt. tamal-pie, a delicious fresh salad atop a flatbread. 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, smallshed.com

THEP LELA Thai This jewel is tucked away in the back of the new Strawberry Village. Diners come for the tasty kee mao noodles, pad thai, fresh rolls and extensive bar menu. It’s also a great place for lunch. 615 Strawberry Village, 415.383.3444, theplela.com

TOAST American Take the kids for an omelet or pancake breakfast at this cozy venue; lunch and dinner, too. 31 Sunnyside Ave, 415.388.2500, toastmillvalley.com

TONY TUTTO PIZZA Italian Tony has been pouring his passion for pizza into his cooking for two decades and is now sharing his family recipes: “It’s all about excellence in pizza, sprinkled with musical ﬂavors and kissed with colorful passion. We feature creative artisan-style pizza using the best imported, natural and local organic ingredients.” Mostly outdoor seating, so dress accordingly. Stop by or take out. 246 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.383.8646, tonytuttopizza.com

TSUKIJI SUSHI Japanese Named for the largest ﬁsh market in world Tsukiji is owned by Roy and Chanel Liu. The couple earned their sushi stripes operating Morpho in San Francisco and Akira in San Rafael. Helping them behind the sushi bar will be former Sushi Ran head sushi chef, Haruo Komatsu. 24 Sunnyside Ave. 415.383.1382

VASCO Italian Whether you’re at a table, the bar or the back counter, you can expect an intimate and tasty dining experience at this oneroom trattoria. Try one of the restaurant’s pasta dishes or thin-crust pizzas. 106 Throckmorton Ave, 415.381.3343

NOVATO

BOCA STEAK & SEAFOOD South American

Bring a date or celebrate a special event at this classic steakhouse, which celebrates chef George Morrone’s (Aqua, Fifth Floor) Argentinean heritage. The grass- and grain- fed steaks are cooked over oak and almond. Head to the restaurant early for a three-course prix-ﬁxe dinner. 340 Ignacio Blvd, 415.883.0901, bocasteak.com

We are Peggy Knight Solutions, the leading provider of hair replacement for medical hair loss. We know what you’re going through, and we’re here to help. Marin County has the highest rate of breast cancer in the nation. If you, or a loved one, have been diagnosed, our doors are open. We can help you face the world with confidence. Our products are made with the finest European quality hair and are undetectable.

1750 Bridgeway, Ste b103, Sausalito, CA 94965 ph 800 997 7753 or 415 289 1777, fax 415 289 1703 www.peggyknight.com

CACTI GRILL American Grill A former bell tower church, the family-friendly restaurant now boasts a covered patio and serves a 21-day dry-aged steak and filet mignon enchiladas. 1200 Grant Ave, 415.898.2234, cactigrill.com

ENCANTO Mexican Barbed wire orbs, lights, festive music, and an addictive bean dip sets this family-friendly restaurant apart from the plethora of others in Marin. The sting of waiting for a table can be relieved by the En Canto House Margarita on the patio. 940 Seventh St, 415.892.1471, encantorestaurant.com

GRAZIE Italian Locals love this family-owned and -run Grant Avenue restaurant for delicious paninis, salads and the unbeatable homemade cookies. Enjoy good weather on the outside patio or people watch in this always-bustling restaurant. 823 Grant Ave, Ste E, 415.878.0202

PORTELLI ROSSI Italian This casual cafe offers huge portions (most priced under $20), a garden patio and a family-friendly environment. Stop in on Saturday and Sunday nights for the live jazz band on the patio. The early-bird special includes a three-course meal for only $12 every night if you’re seated before 6 p.m. Closed Mondays. 868 Grant Ave, 415.892.6100, portellirossi.com

SONOMA LATINA GRILL Mexican As if Novato didn’t already have some great taquerias, the owners of La Tortilla Factory in Sonoma have brought us Sonoma Latina Grill. The menu includes standbys like tacos, burritos and enchiladas made with fresh, local and organic ingredients, plus a list of favorites from the Sonoma location. In keeping with the fresh/non-processed theme, the tortillas are made by hand with natural and organic whole grains. 5800 Nave Dr, Ste D, 415.883.2662, sonomalatinagrill.com

TOAST American Sister to the popular Mill Valley location, Toast Novato features outdoor dining and architecture by Stanley Saitowitz and still has the great dishes by executive chef Michael Garcia that have made the southern Marin spot a not-tobe-missed destination. 5800 Nave, 415.382.1144, toastnovato.com

WILDFOX American Perched on the hillside off Highway 101, this rustic mesquite grill offers a menu full of comfort food and drinks, like the smooth cosmos, and seafood risotto, with bits of butternut squash. In the mood for a cigar? The restaurant has an extensive list. 225 Alameda del Prado, 415.883.9125, wildfoxrestaurant.com

ROSS

CAFE MARMALADE French A quaint one-room coffeehouse centrally situated near Ross Common. Get there early for the full selection of pastries to enjoy with fresh-squeezed orange juice. 22 Ross Common, 415.461.2205

MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS French This gem of a restaurant serves up locally farmed produce, wild and fresh seafood and free-range meats prepared with an artisan’s touch. The wine and beer list

is extensive. 23 Ross Common, 415.925.9200, marcheauxﬂeursrestaurant.com

TRATTORIA FRESCO Italian Every neighborhood deserves a one-room trattoria like this one. The service is friendly and the farmers’-market-fresh food is fabulous—especially the gnocchi. 13 Ross Common, 415.464.0915, frescotrattoria.com

SAN ANSELMO

AVA California Chef Dan Baker, of Marché aux Fleurs in Ross, has another winner with AVA, which features a California-only wine list and a menu where nearly all the ingredients are local. The small menu includes seasonal flatbreads, pasta and six seasonal main dishes. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.453.3407, avamarin.com

COMFORTS Cafe This cozy spot features local ingredients and serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch. Be sure to try the Philly cheesesteak and Chinese chicken salad, both classics. 335 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.9840, comfortscafe.com

CUCINA RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR Italian Proprietor Jack Krietzman (of Pacific Heights’ Jackson Fillmore) has brought Milan to Marin. Relax with a glass and have a slice from the todie-for thin pizzas, topped with items like trufﬂe oil and fontina cheese. 510 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.2942, cucinarestaurantandwinebar.com

DREAM FARM California As the website claims, a taste of rural Marin in downtown San Anselmo, showcasing the bounty of our area’s awardwinning farms, dairies, and ﬁsheries. Best yet is the price point: dishes range from under $6 to nothing over $20. 198 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.453.9898, dreamfarmmarin.com

INSALATA’S Mediterranean Award-winning chef Heidi Insalata Krahling offers Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes prepared with local organic produce and artisan meats. 120 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.457.7700, insalatas.com

LOCOCO’S PIZZERIA Italian Worth driving to from all over Marin, and it’s an easy place to meet up with friends. The pizza crust is divine as is the house salad. Good spot to come with the entire family. Closed Mondays. 638 San Anselmo Ave, 415.453.1238, lococossananselmo.com

MARINITAS Mexican The sister restaurant of Insalata’s, Marinitas continues to ﬂourish as it brings Latin ﬂair home to Marin. It may not be as cheap as most Mexican restaurants in the area, but this is not your typical south-of-the-border spot. The festive atmosphere and funky decor complement the excellent food for a classy, lively experience. Finish strong with the rich Tres Leches Cake. This place gets packed, so make reservations. 218 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.454.8900, marinitas.net

TACO JANE’S Mexican Named after the owner’s mother, this casual but colorful place welcomes the whole family. Don’t miss out on Jane’s handmade agave margarita or griddled plantains with Jane’s crema. 21 Tamalpais Ave, 415.454.6562, tacojanes.com

K-8, INDEPENDENT, CO-EDUCATIONAL

Small Class Sizes • Strong, Interactive & Multidisciplinary Curriculum • Distinguished Music & Theatre Programs • Award Winning Athletics • Value Integrity, Community Service & Fairness • Embrace Diversity Excellent High School Placement SIGN UP ON-LINE TO TOUR OUR CAMPUS

www.newskinclinic.com

plump up for the holidays

let’s plump your smile lines + pucker your lips with juvederm + restylane. smooth your frown + worry wrinkles with botox + dysport. clear up your skin with gentle pulsed light. repair the past, prepare for the holidays! let’s talk. shine. beam. bloom.

you, younger The Bay Area’s premier cosmetic medical clinic: The Sanctuary Spa/Bay Club Marin, Corte Madera Town Center + The San Francisco Bay Club. Non-members welcome. 415.945.9555

SAN GERONIMO

RED TAIL BAR & GRILL California The beautiful views overlooking the San Geronimo Valley redwoods and wildlife will captivate you while you indulge in the new menu featuring West Marin meats, cheeses and produce. 5800 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.488.4030

TWO BIRD CAFÉ California This roadside cafe has it all, including fresh ﬁsh and goodies from the garden. These guys were doing local and sustainable even before it was so popular. 625 San Geronimo Valley Dr, 415.488.0105, twobirdcafe.com

SAN RAFAEL

CAFE GRATITUDE Raw The waiters might push the affirmations theme a bit too much, but the tasty (and healthy) food is worth it. Besides the knowledge you’re supporting local farmers and sustainable agriculture, the raw food and vegan samosas are hard to resist. Best to bring a group and sample lots of items on the menu. 2200 Fourth St, 415.824.4652, withthecurrent.com

CALGANG KITCHEN Owned and operated by the family that used to run Jhan Thong of Northgate food court fame, Calgang Kitchen recently made its debut in the new Northgate shopping center in Terra Linda much to the joy of its devoted regulars. Now a sit-down restaurant that includes a bar serving organic beers and wines, you can stay and enjoy the stylish décor or step right up to their steam table for delicious take out orders in their eco-friendly containers. 194 Northgate One 415.499.3501

MIKADO SUSHI This beautifully decorated, family owned Sushi spot has been open for about two years in its Terra Linda location. Serving both raw and cooked dishes, and 20 different choices of Sake. Dine in or stay home and get it delivered. 248 Northgate One, 415.446.5543

SABOR OF SPAIN Spanish Named Best Tapas/ Small Dishes restaurant in Marin by the Paciﬁc Sun in 2006, this Spanish wine bar is a great place for a date or a big party. The gazpacho is world class here and a must-try. 1301 Fourth St, 415.457.8466, saborofspain.com

SAN RAFAEL JOE’S Italian Guido and Theresa Farina are now running this Marin institution, which has been famous for serving up sophisticated yet casual Italian fare since 1947. Great for large parties, the dining room holds 240. The Pacific red snapper meuniére and roast sirloin of beef are standouts. 931 Fourth St, 415.456.2425, srjoes.com

SEAFOOD PEDDLER Seafood A great place to seek out fresh seafood in a warm and inviting environment. Varieties of East and West Coast ﬁsh ﬂown in daily. Dine indoors or out, or better yet, rent out the banquet room for a party. 100 Yacht Club Dr, 415.460.6669, seafoodpeddler.com

THERESA & JOHNNY’S COMFORT FOOD American Cooking like Mom used to make. Drop by for eggs Benedict, tuna melts, coffee and some

of the best milk shakes around. 817 Fourth St, 415.259.0182, theresa-and-johnnys.com

SAUSALITO

ANGELINO RESTAURANT Italian Father-andson chefs Pasquale and Alfredo Ancona offer handmade pastas and seasonal antipasti at this authentic Italian restaurant, which has been serving food from the Campania region for the past 24 years. 621 Bridgeway, 415.331.5225, angelinorestaurant.com

AVATAR’S Indian Looking for “the best meal of your life”? Let owner Ashok Kumar order for you. One-room casual dining for lunch and dinner. 2656 Bridgeway, 415.332.8083, eatavatar.com

CIBO Cafe Husband and wife team Alfredo and Tera Ancona, offer a menu ﬁlled with tarts, croissants, cookies, paninis and soups. Every dish is made from scratch with local and seasonal products. And now Marinites no longer have to drive over the bridge to get famous Blue Bottle coffee, or sample their homemade organic dark hot chocolate. Located in the historic brick building at 37 Caledonia St, 1201 Bridgeway. cibosausalito.com

FENG NIAN Chinese Busy at lunch and dinner, this spacious hangout has been a popular spot for wonton soup, potstickers and daily specials for nearly two decades. For an indulgent treat order the Szechwan crispy calamari or honey-glazed walnut prawn. Free delivery. 2650 Bridgeway, 415.331.5300, fengnian.com

HORIZONS Seafood/American There isn’t a better place for waterfront deck dining with stunning views of Angel Island, Alcatraz and the San Francisco skyline. Horizons is a favorite with locals and visitors. Enjoy lunch, dinner and brunch daily, featuring fresh seafood, salads, sandwiches, pasta and steak. Deck dining, valet parking and docking facilities available. A full bar serves draft beers and specialty cocktails and has an extensive wine selection. 558 Bridgeway, 415.331.3232, horizonssausalito.com

LE GARAGE French Escape the touristy Sausalito spots and grab brunch right on the water at this cherished site. The atmosphere is animated with light French music playing in the background (think Amélie). The Kobe Burger, though not as Parisian as the other menu items, is to die for. Also consider the muchadored croque-monsieur for under $10. Opt for indoor or outdoor seating. 85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625, legaragebistrosausalito.com

LIGHTHOUSE American Blueberry pancakes, omelets and Danish-influenced dishes are the draw here. It’s a small space, so be prepared to wait. 1311 Bridgeway, 415.331.3034

PARADISE BAY American Enjoy the sun or dine under the stars at this waterfront restaurant. Patrons’ favorites are the organic beef sandwiches and fresh Maine lobster clubs. 1200 Bridgeway, 415.331.3226, paradisebaysausalito.com

PICCOLO TEATRO Italian Translating into “Little Theater” in Italian, Piccolo Teatro used to be a theater before it became the exquisite restaurant it is today. Executive Chef Travis Flood spends weeks mastering each dish. Customers seem unanimous in finding the food quality, service, and ambience phenomenal. 739 Bridgeway Blvd. 415.332.0739, piccoloteatrodisausalito.com

POGGIO Italian A great place to celebrate a special occasion or simply enjoy a night out. Executive chef Peter McNee cooks up delicious Northern Italian cuisine using fresh and local ingredients, including produce from the nearby Poggio chef garden. 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com

SAYLOR’S RESTAURANT AND BAR California/Mexican Marin’s first tequila bar offers over 100 tequila options. Nightly meal specials include chicken pot pie, roasted salmon, baby back ribs, and traditional meatloaf. If you’re in for a wild night of entertainment there are frequent events like margarita night and flight night tequila-tasting parties. The private dining room is perfect for large parties. 2009 Bridgeway, 415.332.1512, saylorsrestaurantandbar.com

SPINNAKER Seafood Chef Phil Collins excels at preparing seafood, and it shows in the beautiful plate presentations. Set right on the water, this romantic spot is great for an evening occasion. 100 Spinnaker Dr, 415.332.1500, thespinnaker.com

SUSHI RAN Japanese Fresh, innovative small plates are just big enough to share, the traditional sushi is melt-in-your-mouth good and the wine, cocktail and sake lists keep the pickiest barﬂy well satisﬁed. Even the prices don’t deter the herd of sushi enthusiasts, who line up nightly to partake; reservations required in main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com

TIBURON

GINZA Japanese Whether you go for the volcano roll or indulge in the eight-course Omakase meal, the fresh ingredients coupled with the tremendous view of San Francisco keep this place busy. 41 Main St, 415.789.5123, ginzasushi-tiburon.com

SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE American Everyone knows Sam’s deck is the prime spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday even in the wintertime, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole, but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. Enjoy trans-fatfree calamari, fresh ﬁsh, seasonal salads, inventive pasta dishes served with local wines and aritsan cocktails 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com

TIBURON GRILL California The atmosphere here is truly enchanting with two outdoor patios, two indoor ﬁreplaces, and candlelit tables during the evening. No item is more than $20, including the steak, with entrées falling in the $14 to $18 range. Happy hour is Monday through Friday from 4 to 7 p.m. 1651 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.5996, thelodgeattiburon.com

WEST MARIN

NICK’S COVE American This collaboration of famed restaurateurs Pat Kuleto and Mark Franz has attracted visitors (and accolades) nationwide. Large windows open the 130-seat eatery to the picturesque Tomales Bay and Hog Island. Menu consists of the freshest available local seafood, oysters and bounty from nearby West Marin farms including Bodega Bay Dungeness crab cake and Tomales Bay clam chowder (Marshall). 23240 Hwy 1, 415.663.1033, nickscove.com

OSTERIO STELLINA California Osterio Stellina accommodates any occasion. The menu is Italianinspired using organic, local ingredients. Looking for something unusual? Try the Goat Shoulder, a favorite of locals and tourists alike. Don’t forget the lemon ice cream sandwich (Point Reyes). 11285 Hwy 1, 415.663.9988, osteriastellina.com

PARKSIDE CAFE American Most people know it as the ultimate breakfast spot but lunch and dinners are great here too. (Stinson). 43 Arenal Ave, 415.868.1272, parksidecafe.com

PINE CONE DINER American Just off the main road, Joannie Kwit has re-created the ultimate neighborhood diner. Vintage china and homemade curtains complement the eclectic but homey menu featuring local fare. A favorite for locals as well as tourists, bicyclists and motorcyclists (Point Reyes Station). 60 Fourth St, 415.663.1536, thepineconediner.com

Photography: Faith Echtermeyer

ATTENTION ARTISTS: Enter the Fourth Annual MARIN MAGAZINE Cover Art Contest.

WINNERS: A winner from one of the following categories: painting, photography and illustration, will be featured in the May 2010 issue of MARIN MAGAZINE.

EXPOSURE: The winner will be featured on cover of the May 2010 issue. ENTER NOW AT:

EVOLENCE® is the rst and only collagen dermal ller proven to last through 12 months. EVOLENCE ® is an advanced all-natural collagen dermal ller that immediately smoothes the appearance of the lines from your nose to your mouth. EVOLENCE® replaces collagen you’ve lost, with collagen that lasts. And there’s minimal to no down time, so you can go out and enjoy your refreshed new look the same day. Join the EVOLENCE® evolution today, so you can look as young as you feel.

Visit www.evolence.com

Learn how to save up to $150 to look as young as you feel.* Find a STAR™ trained healthcare professional in your area.

12 months after treatment of smile lines photo unretouched before untreated smile lines photo unretouched a naturally younger-looking you

EVOLENCE® is indicated for the correction of moderate-to-deep facial wrinkles and folds, such as nasolabial folds. EVOLENCE ® should be injected into the mid-to-deep dermis. Possible side effects of EVOLENCE ® are usually injection-site related and include mild swelling, redness, and pain. Other rare side effects include the development of small areas of rmness under the skin at the treated sites that may be noticed when the areas are pressed upon. For more information, please call 1.800.EVOLENCE (1.800.386.5362).

*$50 rebate by mail for each syringe used for your EVOLENCE ® treatment performed between January 1, 2009 and December 31, 2009 (up to three 1 mL syringes) with qualifying rebate request form. Requests must be post-marked within 60 days of treatment. Limi t to two rebate submissions per patient, per year. Not combinable with other offers. Must be 18 or older. Full terms and conditions for rebate on www.evolence.com.

ROSS A small-town lifestyle

IS A MARIN TOWN WITH A JUST-OVER-100-YEAR-OLD HISTORY, a highly sought-after private high school, one of the oldest West Coast theater troupes, original concrete bridges built by famed designer John Buck Leonard and more than a few structures built by architects Bernard Maybeck and Mark and John White hiding something?

“I got a call from Mill Valley asking where downtown was, if we even had one,” says Maureen Vogel, who chose Ross 13 years ago as the location for her handbag boutique Number 5. “It is a hidden gem, the one downtown that people don’t think exists.”

But Vogel says she “fell madly in love” with the downtown area known as Ross Common—donated to the town in 1911 by the eldest daughter of town founder and namesake James Ross—which includes Breaking Away Bikes, Sam the Butcher art gallery, Cafe Marmalade, Marché aux Fleurs, Neneshoes and the mainstay, Eddie’s Ross Grocery, located on the same corner for more than 80 years.

“People thought I was crazy to open here but I love it,” the Corte Madera resident says, adding that people have learned to ﬁnd her store, just a stone’s throw from Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, and make special trips there to get bags they often can’t ﬁnd anywhere else in the Bay Area.

BY DANIEL JEWETT PHOTOS TIM PORTER

“It’s a great spot; I have a great view and so many friends in the neighborhood, like the moms across the street (from the Ross School).

“The locals have been very supportive and welcoming,” she adds. “Everybody here wants to have a vibrant downtown. They even bring their friends by.”

Indeed, everybody in Ross has to make it downtown at some point, as the town has no mail service—everything is put in post office boxes and must be picked up at the Ross Post Office, built in 1958 on the site of an old North Pacific Coast Railroad station.

“You get to know people at the post ofﬁce; it draws one out,” says longtime resident Pamela Sher. “You can easily walk there. It’s fun.”

Sher and her family moved into their 1905 vintage Maybeck/White–designed house 28 years ago after deciding to get out of the San Francisco fog and ﬁnding that it stopped somewhere around Ross. Their double, three-acre lot is full of trees, including about 130 oaks, and features an unobstructed view of Mount Tamalpais. But the property holds something else Sher ﬁnds even more inspiring, a nearly one-acre garden.

“It’s a family project, a focus for getting together, a common interest,” she says. “We have family dinners totally supplied by the garden.”

One favorite example is the fall harvest dinner, when loved ones like her chef/daughter Lacey Sher, who is opening a wine bar called Encuentro in Oakland’s Jack London Square, and friends such as former Healdsburg Dry Creek Kitchen chef

Mateo Granados come together to cook up the bounty. “It is marvelous; we have some fantastic dishes,” she says.

Two-term town council member and former mayor R. Scot Hunter also enjoys the small-town feel and family emphasis in Ross. “You cross the Lagunitas Bridge and with the architecture and pace of the town, you feel like you drop back 20 years,” he says. “It’s what North Coast towns used to be.” Hunter says he really saw the spirit of the town residents in the dedication of the volunteer group that spent three years

working on the 20-year general plan, completed in 2007. “We had a great group and they really stuck it out.”

Going forward, Hunter says, important topics for the council will include everything from looking into requests for outdoor fireplaces and the hillside ordinance to flood control, emergency preparedness and completing work on the downtown plan. He says more parking by the post office is coming and that the council is even looking into the “dream” of a bridge over Sir Francis Drake Boulevard to the Marin Art and Garden Center. “It’s such a wonderful asset, but it is separated,” he says.

Another important change coming to Ross is the nearly $30 million school building and gym coming to the Ross School in 2010 and 2011, respectively. “We are at a point of rebirth,” says Tracy McLaughlin, cofounder, owner and agent at Morgan Lane Real Estate. McLaughlin, who has an ofﬁce right on the Common and a home in the community, says buyers come to Ross from other parts of Marin or San Francisco for the weather, the hills full of deciduous trees, the size of the lots, the school district and the style of the houses. “It is very social, a dinner-party community,” the former news anchor adds. “It is a community where everyone knows everyone.”

To get in on the small-town Ross lifestyle will cost prospective home owners $728,000 at the low end and $5 million at the high end, according to data from this past year (although a house did sell off the market for $8 million). The average home price in Ross settles in at around $2.3 million and about $758 per square foot. Currently there are about 26 active listings.

Tiburon Opportunity

Trestle Glen Terrace

This lot is almost fifteen acres with views of Mt. Tamalpais, the bay, and San Francisco. There are proposed plans for a large estate with pool, tennis court, olive grove, and vineyard or for multiple residences. This is a rare opportunity to create a dream home or to subdivide and build up to four family homes.

Offered at $5,900,000

Kristine Tiret

415.310.0269

kristinetiret@apr.com

90 Evelyn Avenue, Mill Valley

Stunning, architecturally designed Craftsman completed in 2008. Elegant with urban sophistication, 3bd/2.5ba, artful design and high-end finishes throughout. Private, tranquil and sundrenched, nestled high in the Redwoods, yet convenient to town. www.90EvelynAve.com

Offered at $1,795,000

Jim Fraser 415.254.0253 jfraser@apr.com

1893 Centro West, Tiburon

World Class location and a world class opportunity. Approved, permit ready plans for a 5bd/4.5ba 3700+sf house with views of San Francisco Bay, the city and the Golden Gate Bridge. Seller willing to consider a joint venture. www.1893CentroWest.com

Offered at $1,750,000

40 Wildwood Way, San Rafael

Beautifully designed, contemporary home with cathedral ceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows, limestone floors and African wood cabinetry on a private, oak-studded lot with stellar views of Mt. Tam. Fairhills neighborhood. Sun Valley School. www.40Wildwood.com

Offered at $1,495,000

749

Deer Valley Road, San Rafael

Luxury retirement living. Private, beautifully appointed 3bd/2ba detached villa in Smith Ranch. Granite counters, 10’ ceilings, crown moldings, natural stone & hardwood floors. HOA dues include many services and amenities. www.749DeerValley.com

Offered at $1,635,000

Robin Kohn Glazer

J.D., Broker Associate, Realtor 415-328-5564 • robin@robinglazer.com www.robinglazer.com

4 bedroom, 3.5 bath contemporary redwood home with spectacular Mount Tamalpais and Seminary views. Floor-to-ceiling windows, solarium, skylights, cathedral ceilings, and redwood decks bring sun and views into the home in every room. Huge kitchen with granite countertops. Spacious master suite with fireplace and remodeled master bath. Gated entrance with garage and carport for plenty of parking. Quiet, private street above Winship Park. Large yard on terraced downslope lot, with patios, pathways, play structure and spa. Prestigious Ross School District. www.60Baywood.com

This 3 bedroom, 2 bath home offers indoor/outdoor living. French doors lead from the dining room to a brick patio and play area with an additional outdoor "living room" offering more private entertaining just off the living room.

Thank you Marin for another successful year in 2009!

Wishing you health and happiness during the holiday season and in 2010.

Linda Tull

Marin Native + Member of Marin’s Top Agent Network 415-233-0125

Linda.Tull@pacunion.com

MyMarinHomes.com DRE #01703883

[CIRCA 1959]

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS

A golden anniversary for the Golden Gate Baptist

Theological Seminary on Strawberry Point

THE GOLDEN GATE BAPTIST THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY PURCHASED 148 ACRES of prime Marin County real estate in 1953. The land—a dairy farm once considered as a location for the United Nations—is on Strawberry Point (at the Seminary Drive exit from Highway 101, a Mill Valley address) and now serves as the seminary’s Northern California campus. “It took six years of planning and construction,” notes Phyllis Evans, GGBTS’s director of communications. “Then in 1959, exactly 50 years ago this fall, our doors were opened to students.” With an enrollment of over 300 (all graduate students), the local campus is one of ﬁve in the Golden Gate Baptist Theological Seminary system. “Since 1944, the seminary has sent out more than 7,000 graduates,” adds Evans, “making ours the 10th largest seminary in the United States.” —JIM

WOOD

When you or a loved one are suffering, Recovery Without Walls (RWW) is there to help. Recovery Without Walls successfully treats patients with an individualized, outpatient program. It is founded and directed by Howard Kornfeld, M.D., a leading authority on treating alcoholism and addiction, as well as chronic pain. Dr. Kornfeld has been a medical leader in Marin County for over two decades and has taught about addiction medicine as a member of the clinical faculty at the UCSF School of Medicine for over ten years.

Dr. Kornfeld is an expert in gentle, therapeutic detoxiﬁcation from alcohol and drugs, particularly as a leading prac titioner in the use of Suboxone (buprenorphine), a medication for the management of both pain and the addiction that can happen so quickly from opiate pain pills. Dr. Kornfeld combines his pharmacological expertise with a pioneering medical methodology that naturally aids recovery.

In this way, RWW uniquely addresses the anxiety and stress of detoxiﬁcation with medically sophisticated caring and one on one, mind-body healing. For more information please refer to the Recovery Without Walls website, or call today for a conﬁdential appointment.