Marin Magazine August 2008 by 270 Media

MARI N E X T R A O R D I N A R Y

L I V I N G

2008editors’ choice PEOPLE, ACTIVITIES, FOOD, FASHION, HOME & GARDEN

World-class vision

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Some things are timeless and priceless. Genuine care. Authentic relationships. Professionalism. Knowledge. The thrill of discovering the first home of your dreams or the perfect retreat. These are all qualities of experience we’re naturally passionate about. They’re at the heart of who we are. Some things never change. McGuire’s legacy stretches back nearly 90 years in the San Francisco Bay Area — owned by one family — for three generations. Our reputation for uncompromising high-touch, hands-on service is legendary and lives on to this day. Experience our online movies to explore our culture. Discover how we leverage our passion for personalized care and global network power to your advantage. Call: 1.800.4-RESULTS. Visit: mcguire.com/marin

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Home for your life.

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CONTENTS

Features 62 2008 editors’ choice

People, activities, food, fashion, home and garden. compiled by marin magazine editors

86 home 94 journey

A Floating World

A ravine-spanning home that treads lightly on the landscape. story p. j. bremier photos barbara ries

Sicily’s Siren Song

Steeped in tradition, delicious food and opportunities for adventure. story & photos ben davidson

Marin (Volume 4, Issue 8) is published monthly by Marin Magazine, LLC, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965. Application to Mail at Periodicals Postage Rates is Pending at Sausalito, CA and at additional mailing ofﬁces. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Suite 208 Sausalito, CA 94965.

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

CONTENTS

Departments 20 letters

Readers respond to Marin Magazine.

24 at a glance

Hot tips day by day for the Bay Area.

32 snap

Out and about, in and around Marin.

40 trends

Stylish tiny tots. by somer ﬂaherty

44 life style

Mill Valley artist Eric Zener discusses his personal style.

47 fyi

Green: Making the biodegrade. Decor: Fountains make a splash. Education: Gary Gruber changes the SAT dynamics. Real Estate: Buyers and sellers tell their stories.

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

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CONTENTS

Departments

56 conversation

Helge Hellberg, at the helm of Marin Organic. by mimi towle

100 go

Savor Santa Barbara. by samantha berry

104 looking back

Radio days at the Marconi Center. by jim wood

108 books

Aunt and niece collaborate on a novel. by samantha berry

112 calendar

A roundup of performing arts, events, galleries and more.

flavor

120

Local chefs share gazpacho secrets. Dine Out: An insider’s guide to Bay Area restaurants.

136 microclimate

Mill Valley’s Homestead Valley. by jim wood

162

dialogue Asian Art Museum’s Michael Knight. by mimi towle

Columns The Cover Noodles, by Marin artist Eric Zener.

view from mount tam

pov

The creators of Marin Magazine welcome you to share their vision.

More of his work can be seen at ericzener.com.

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

Marin’s trash crunch. by jim wood

This season, fall in love with color!

Vera Bradley at San Francisco Centre handbags | accessories | travel items 845 Market Street | San Francisco, CA 94103 | (415) 896-5092 To find a retailer near you, go to verabradley.com.

Our covers. Your walls. Now you can buy Marin Magazine covers for your home or ofﬁce. Available in various sizes, framed or unframed, with or without the Marin Magazine logo, these professional quality prints are a beautiful addition to any wall. Visit marinmagazine.com/coverart today.

MARI N E X T R A O R D I N A R Y

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Portrait of Prince Zhu Youyuan in the ceremonial uniform (detail), probably 1521. Anon. Ming artist. Hanging scroll, colors on silk. The Palace Museum, Beijing.

Editorial editorial director Nikki Wood ext 105 nwood@marinmagazine.com

executive editor Jim Wood ext 106 jwood@marinmagazine.com

senior editor Mimi Towle ext 101 mtowle@marinmagazine.com

editor-at-large Tim Porter tporter@marinmagazine.com

departments editor Somer Flaherty ext 103 sflaherty@marinmagazine.com

POW E R & GLO RY: C O U RT A RT S O F C H I NA’ S

copy editor/proofreader Cynthia Rubin

editorial contributors Samantha Berry P. J. Bremier Ben Davidson

Art art director Anne Walzer

production manager Alex French ext 111 production@marinmagazine.com

JUNE 27–SEPT. 21, 2008 Why are Ming vases cherished as exquisite artworks of majestic perfection? Find out at this unique exhibition of treasures from China’s ﬁnest museums— including rare objects from the Forbidden City. From jades and porcelains to jewelry and paintings, the grandeur of the Ming court is yours to discover.

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Administration controller Maeve Walsh ext 104

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mwalsh@marinmagazine.com Marin Magazine, One Harbor Dr, Ste 208, Sausalito, CA 94965, phone: 415.332.4800, fax: 415.332.3048, web: marinmagazine.com, e-mail: editorial@marinmagazine.com

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advertising director Courtney Q. Roberts ext 108 croberts@marinmagazine.com

account manager Michele Johnson ext 110 mjohnson@marinmagazine.com

account manager Leah Bronson ext 109 lbronson@marinmagazine.com

account manager

I finally found the one investment advisor whose incentive based compensation is directly tied to my performance.

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Rebecca Novack ext 113 rnovack@marinmagazine.com

advertising sales coordinator Alexandria Reno ext 100 areno@marinmagazine.com

regional sales offices southern california dorie leo and associates Dorie Leo 310.822.4938

new york couture marketing Karen Couture 917.821.4429

southeast tlc media Cindy Taylor 404.459.6578

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Volume 4, Issue 8. Marin Magazine is published in Marin County by Marin Magazine LLC. All rights reserved. Copyright©2008. Reproduction of Marin Magazine content is prohibited without the expressed, written consent of Marin Magazine LLC. Unsolicited materials cannot be returned. Marin Magazine reserves the right to refuse to publish any advertisement deemed detrimental to the best interests of the community or that is in questionable taste. Marin Magazine is mailed monthly to homes and businesses in Marin County. Subscription rates are $12 per year. Marin Magazine, One Harbor Drive, Sausalito, CA 94965. Phone 415.332.4800, fax 415.332.3048, e-mail editorial@ marinmagazine.com, website marinmagazine.com. marin magazine is printed on 10% post-consumer waste paper member of the bpa worldwide: fsc-certified products originate from well-managed forests.

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V I E W F R O M M O U N T TA M

EVEN IN A PLACE WITH AS MANY SPECIAL PEOPLE and

In Conversation we talk with Helge Hellberg, the

places as Marin, everyone has favorites—including us.

dynamic executive director of Marin Organic, about the

That’s why we’ve put together Marin Magazine’s first

importance of good, local food and the need to preserve

Editors’ Choice, a 24-page collection highlighting peo-

the soil that nourishes us all. Lifestyle introduces us to

ple who contribute to our community and guiding you

Mill Valley artist Eric Zener (whose watery work is on the

through our select places to shop for clothes, to find home

cover this month), Dialogue engages with Michael Knight,

furnishings, to immerse kids in culture and to generally

the senior curator of Chinese art at the Asian Art Museum,

spend time enjoying the delights of Marin.

and FYI Education schools us on local wiz Gary Gruber’s

In Home this month, P. J. Bremier explores a modern

techniques for acing the SAT.

award-winning home that spans a ravine in central Marin

Also in this issue, Microclimate wanders the hilly streets

“like a rusty bar floating on the landscape.” FYI Home

of Homestead Valley, Flavor extracts the secrets of great

Decor describes how you can add some splash to your en-

gazpacho from local chefs, and Looking Back dials into the

vironment with fountains, and FYI Real Estate finds lo-

radio days of West Marin’s Marconi Conference Center.

cal buyers and sellers who are successfully navigating the challenges of today’s housing market. Taking us out of town, Ben Davidson reports in Journey

As always, our wish is for your continued good reading. Enjoy Marin Magazine, as we continue to celebrate this extraordinary place!

on how he reconnected with his youthful memories on a hiking-biking—and eating—tour of Sicily, and closer to

Lisa Shanower, Publisher

home in Go, Samantha Berry savors the epicurean attrac-

Nikki Wood, Editorial Director

tions of Santa Barbara.

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

Jim Wood, Executive Editor

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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LE TTE RS

THROW

Readers respond

YOUR KID AN O U T- O F THIS-WORLD B I R T H D AY PA R T Y.

that we do with the many, many visitors we receive—and they all love it! We hop in the

❯❯ Wish you were here

car and drive over to Drakes Bay and get fresh

In response to Tim Porter’s article “Wish

oysters, then hit the beach with barbecue and

You Were Here,” in the August issue: Viva

cooler in tow. We set up a camping table, some

les Tourists! I embrace them and welcome

chairs and our mini iPod stereo system, then

them. I behave like one of them. I moved to

crack open the wine and start shucking! We

Sausalito because of the many languages spo-

also grill a bunch of oysters and flavor them

ken along Bridgeway and of course because

with lime, lemon, hot sauce, cilantro, and on-

of its natural beauty, culture and shopping.

ions and have a ball! We’ve done this with peo-

Like our tourists, I don’t take Marin for grant-

ple of all ages, and they love it! Deb Neely, Mill Valley

ed and appreciate it as if seeing it for the first time. When I am in a tourist-fueled traffic jam I keep in mind there are traffic jams in un-

❯❯ Audubon Canyon Ranch kudos

desirable places too. It might help to recall

Jim Wood’s excellent article in the August issue

Tim Porter’s article with research pointing out

describing Audubon Canyon Ranch conveyed its

revenue provided by tourism can supply 100

beauty and the treasure we have in Marin—and

percent of Marin’s budget plus a cool $220

is an excellent segue for me to mention the edu-

million extra per year above and beyond that.

cation component of the ranch. A vital part of

If nothing else, those figures should motivate

ACR is its mission to communicate a knowledge

the most reluctant Marinites to open their

and appreciation of nature to schoolchildren.

hearts and share our area with tourists.

Throughout the school year docents lead small

Jolene Tompkins, Sausalito

groups of fourth and fifth grade students on a three-hour exploration of the newts, redwoods,

❯❯ Second home backlash

spiders and birds that thrive there. This year

I didn’t realize that the perennial second-home

1,663 students from 43 Bay Area schools visited

dilemma was such a problem for residents of

the ranch. Docent training is an opportunity for

Marin. I read in the newspapers almost ev-

anyone who enjoys the outdoors and the plea-

ery day about foreclosures and people losing

sure of sharing it with children. For more infor-

their homes. I found the article inappropriate

mation please call the ranch at 415. 868.9244.

and insensitive considering what is going on

Jeanette Carr, Belvedere

in the housing market today. Granted, Marin, for the most part, is a wealthy community,

It was great to see the article on Audubon

but the majority of people here cannot afford

Canyon Ranch in the August issue. It looks

a second or third home. Articles such as this

terrific! Credit for the stunning photo of

one perpetuate the image of Marin as a place

the nesting egret in the article goes to Wyn

for only the very affluent.

Hoag.

Joan Prime, Mill Valley

Paula Maxfield, Audubon Canyon Ranch

❯❯ Entertaining guests Regarding Jim Wood’s August POV: thank you

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

Letters to the editor may be edited for clarity and

for the great column (actually a bunch of great

brevity. Send letters to Marin Magazine, One

columns) regarding things to do in Marin. I

Harbor Drive, Suite 208, Sausalito, CA 94965.

wanted to weigh in here and add something

Or e-mail jwood@marinmagazine.com.

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

IT’S TIME FOR A DIP

IN THE DE E P E ND.

E XPAN D YOU R U N IVE R S E Take a virtual tour at GoToChabot.org

POV

Marin’s Trash Crunch How to head off another crisis

BY JIM WOOD

Meanwhile, Marin’s only landfill, the 220-

Marin Refuse’s Joe Garbarino all but yells at

acre Redwood Landfill north of Novato off

whoever will listen. “They’re the curse of our

Highway 101, is facing challenges. It has been

industry—no one wants them.” This includes

trying to expand for more than 10 years, but

newspaper delivery bags as well as bags hand-

has recently cut back those plans in the face

ed out at supermarkets. An alternative: Buy sev-

of concerns from environmental groups such

eral reusable grocery bags (the cost is trivial) so

as the Marin Conservation League, the Sierra

there’s always one in your car.

Club and The Bay Institute. “From Marin, every

2. Thou Shalt Rinse Plastic Bottles and

day we receive nearly 600 tons of garbage and

Jars Before Recycling Them: “It’s just be-

about 500 tons of recyclables and green waste,

ing considerate,” says Mill Valley’s Iavarone.

wood and concrete,” says site manager Jessica

“Although some recycling is done by magnets

Jones. “As landfills go, we’re relatively small.”

and machines, people still sort through it by

As well as addressing environmental con-

hand to finish the job.” Remember: plastics,

cerns, Waste Management Inc., owner of the

“contaminated” by food particles should go to

19.1 million-cubic-yard landfill, reduced its

the dump instead of being recycled.

planned expansion by 35 percent to 25 mil-

3. Thou Shalt Not Recycle Styrofoam,

THE DISNEY-PIXAR ANIMATED hit movie Wall-

lion cubic yards. “They appear committed to

Black Nursery Pots or Clothes Hangers: “They

E (Waste Allocation Load Lifter, Earth–class)

staying with Redwood Landfill,” says Marin

just jam up the works,” says Marin trash collec-

depicts an Earth of the future so overrun with

County Board of Supervisors President Charles

tor Joe Aguirre. His simple solution: “Bring ’em

trash that humans head into space to enjoy life.

McGlashan. “After receiving necessary permits,”

back where you got ’em.” Mail services can reuse

In a way, that’s close to happening now.

he adds, “they’re interested in developing such

“peanuts,” ditto for nurseries with black plastic

New York, Los Angeles and San Francisco al-

innovations as a methane digester for food

pots and dry cleaners with wire coat hangers.

ready truck, train and barge their hundreds of

scraps and green waste and a Construction and

4. Thou Shalt Not Put Unwanted Paint,

tons of daily trash and garbage to distant land-

Demolition Recovery Center. There’s little risk of

TVs, Computers, Microwave Ovens, Cell

fills that are rapidly filling. Hoping to counter-

them quitting the landfill.”

Phones or Fluorescent Lights in Your

act this trend, a London suburb fines residents

“The county is fortunate to have Redwood

Recycle or Garbage Bins: First, it’s against the

$225 if they overload their trash bins with just

Landfill,” says Jim Iavarone, a co-owner of Mill

law. Second, you can find our how to dispose

inches of too much waste, even though much

Valley Refuse. “If we lose it, we’ll have to trans-

of such items correctly by looking under “R” in

of it can be recycled. One Englishman put it

port Marin’s waste elsewhere.”

the yellow pages of the AT&T phone book, by calling 415.485.6806 or 415.457.9760, or by

this way: “Ultimately, as a country, we have

What would be good for Marin’s envi-

to do more. We can’t just keep producing and

ronment and alleviate pressure on Redwood

throwing things away.”

Landfill is adherence to the following Four

“It would be great if we’d become less of

clicking on marinmax.org or ireuse.com.

Marin can also do more. “As a county,

Commandments regarding trash, garbage, re-

a ‘disposal society,’” says Redwood Landfill’s

Marin recycles about 70 percent of its trash,

cyclables and other unwanted stuff. They were

Jessica Jones. “If, whenever possible, we’d pur-

which is good,” says Patty Garbarino of Marin

etched in stone after conversing with refuse

chase only goods that are long lasting, reus-

Sanitary in San Rafael. “But we also throw

company executives, trash collectors and land-

able and recyclable. That way we’d have much

away more tons of stuff per capita than any

fill employees:

less stuff winding up in the landfill.” That’s

county in California, and California discards more trash than any state in the country.”

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

1. Thou Shalt Not Attempt to Recycle Plastic Bags: “Plastic bags should be illegal,”

precisely my point of view. What’s yours? E-mail jwood@marinmagazine.com.

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

D O W N T O

W M

Heidi Duckor Branch Manager Bank of Marin 19 Sunnyside Avenue Downtown Mill Valley

She’ll look after you like a good neighbor would. Meet Mill Valley banker Heidi Duckor. She’s been a part of the local community for over 25 years. Now that she’s at Bank of Marin you can be sure she’ll personally take care of all your banking needs. She’ll take time to learn about your business or family’s financial goals and help find unique ways to achieve them. So stop by or give Heidi, your loyal neighbor, a call today at (415) 380-4665.

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AT A GLAN C E

EVE NT S I N MAR IN & B EYO ND

AU GUST AUGUST 1, 8, 15 Friday Nights on Main

AUGUST 9 Bike Race

Main Street is shut down to cars and tables are set up for dining to welcome visitors with food, drink, music and shopping during this annual event in Tiburon.

The Carrera de San Rafael Bike Race is expected to attract the top professional teams in the country and abroad. Downtown San Rafael. 415.342.2196, carrerasanrafael.com

AUGUST 9 & 10 Headlands Hundred Enjoy views of the coast as you run 50 or 100 miles along the Marin Headlands with views of the Golden Gate Bridge, Tiburon and San Francisco. Rodeo Beach (GGNRA). pctrailruns.com

THRU AUGUST 12 Undiscovered Monotypes In celebration of Matt Phillips’s birthday, the gallery is exhibiting his work, including a self-portrait series. Meyerovich Gallery (SF). 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com

AUGUST 12 Nancy Pelosi

AUGUST 16 Food and Wine Festival

The congresswoman speaks about her new book, Know Your Power: A Message to America’s Daughters. Dominican University (San Rafael). 415.927.0960, bookpassage.com

The festival will feature wine and beer tasting, cuisine from local restaurants and a showcase of local art and music. Falkirk Cultural Center (San Rafael). 800.310.6563, sresproductions.com

AUGUST 17 Classic Car Show The Downtown San Anselmo Merchants third annual Hot August Cool Cars Classic Car Show benefits the city’s holiday lights fund. San Anselmo Ave (San Anselmo). 415.254.7796

AUGUST 29— SEPTEMBER 1 Sausalito Art Festival More than 20,000 original works of art including paintings, ceramics, jewelry and more. Marinship Park (Sausalito). 415.332.3555, sausalitoartfestival.org

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

AUGUST 23 Migration

AUGUST 23 & 24 Tiburon Art Festival

In this field seminar visit several habitats and discuss when, why and where birds may be coming from and going to. Point Reyes National Seashore. 415.663.1200, ptreyes.org

Ark Row will be the place to celebrate local talent during Tiburon’s second annual art festival. Work will be judged by Philip Linhares and Alison Gass. Ark Row (Tiburon). 415.435.4355

AUGUST 30 Belvedere Block Parties

AUGUST 31 Slow Food Nation

Join your neighbors and make new friends during this night of citywide block parties in Belvedere. Each block plans its own event with music, dancing, food and more. 415.435.3218

Hurry up and get your tickets to this national food event, which promises to educate and inspire. slowfoodnation.org

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

M A R I N ALBUM

Framed!

BY TIM PORTER

“Photographed

IN THIS AGE OF TECHNICAL WONDER, when every cell phone carries a camera, we are

images do not seem

Henri Cartier-Bresson, the famous French photographer whose name is synonymous

to be statements about the world so much as pieces of it.”

all photographers. That means, of course, we are all also fair game to be photographed. with “the decisive moment,” once explained those words: “There is a creative fraction of a second when you are taking a picture. Your eye must see a composition or an expression that life itself offers you, and you must know with intuition when to click the camera. … Oop! The Moment! Once you miss it, it is gone forever.” Heeding Cartier-Bresson’s advice, we click away, compiling moment upon moment into ever-growing digital collections. As voluminous as these visual records grow, they are in-

— SUSA N SON TAG,

complete, though, lacking something important—all those people and places we chose not

ON PHOTOGR APHY

to photograph. For each moment we save, we lose another. For all the viewﬁnder sees, “To photograph is to frame, and to frame is to exclude,” says philosopher Sontag. To understand Sontag’s point, watch a boat—say the Angel Island ferry—being boarded. The lower-deck windows form a frame. Some travelers we see, many we don’t. We click. We capture. Choose wisely—because the rest are gone forever.

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

there is much more it doesn’t.

My family has been in the investment business for the better part of the last century. My grandfather, Henri de la Chapelle, was an early partner at Paine, Webber, Jackson & Curtis. My grandfather, Rudolph Eichler, founded Bateman Eichler & Co. in 1929. My father, Peter Eichler Sr., became chief executive of Bateman Eichler in the 1970s. I worked on the floor of the NYSE, developed investment products for E.F. Hutton and launched a money management division for Bear Stearns. To say that I have worked in this business my entire life is not an overstatement. My forbears taught me that to be a successful investor one must be an independent thinker. At Aletheia, we have always done our own research. Another important family trait I have incorporated is common sense in terms of valuation, risk and return expectations. I also believe common sense guides the amount of effort needed to achieve superior results. It takes an incredible amount of time and effort to add value in today’s challenging financial markets. At Aletheia we have combined a rich heritage, creative thinking and a tireless work ethic. We look forward to hearing from you. Peter J. Eichler, Jr. Founder, Chairman, CEO

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A l e t h e i a

™

R esea rc h a nd M a na gement

100

Gross Performance 330.60% Performance( Excess Return N Alpha S Inception Date

206.53%

251.75%

188.71%

196.04%

115.51%

1 1 1

1 2 2

1 1 1

17 17 18

1/1998

4/1999

9/1999

4/2000

7/2002

2008 YTD

Aletheia Growth Aletheia Value Aletheia Int’l Growth

4.57% 7.15% 5.77%

2007 17.18% 3.35% 27.10%

2006 20.11% 23.19% 24.60%

2005 30.39% 19.38% 17.72%

2004 17.18% 15.07% 7.73%

2003 62.16% 30.52% 45.61%

Since 12/31/97 391.78% 209.35%* 185.43%**

S&P 500‡

(-2.06%)

5.49%

15.80%

4.91%

10.88%

28.69%

73.90%

Aletheia Research and Management 100 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 1960, Santa Monica, CA 90401 (310) 899-0800 aletheiaresearch.com Past performance is not indicative of future performance.*Value performance since 3/31/00. The S&P 500 performed 9.23% over the same period. **International Growth performance since 6/30/02. ‡ The S&P 500 performed 60.66% over the same period. S&P 500 performance includes reinvested dividends. 2008 returns net of fees estimated through 5/19/08. Performance results are net of management fees.

F Y I R E A L E S TAT E U P DAT E

Marin County Real Estate by the Numbers $3,247,798,839 Total real estate sales in 2007

$65 million ▼

Highest-priced current listing: Blanding Estate, Belvedere, CA

AVERAGE SALES PRICE

RECENT SALES AVERAGES

MAY 2008

BY TOWNS

Year

Units Sold

Avg Sales Price

2007

2507

$1,223,678

2006

2844

$1,091,526

2005

3407

$1,078,819

2004

3764

$929,103

2003

3600

$817,961

2002

3421

$782,829

2001

2676

$757,523

2000

3305

$722,780

1999

3622

$590,821

1998

3433

$495,093

Ross

$4,346,342

1997

3453

$443,135

Belvedere

$3,693,625

1996

2807

$417,324

Kentﬁeld

$2,756,812

1995

2277

$397,069

Tiburon

$1,746,348

1994

2772

$382,817

Mill Valley

$1,514,729

1993

2690

$378,097

Larkspur

$1,472,213

1992

2663

$369,669

Corte Madera

$1,425,280

1991

2562

$374,980

San Anselmo

$1,361,040

1990

2488

$379,581

Sausalito

$1,329,681

1989

3191

$339,168

HIGHEST SALE PRICE

Greenbrae

$1,065,807

1988

3629

$282,431

MAY 2008

San Rafael

$824,329

1987

3356

$240,875

Fairfax

$807,100

1986

3500

$216,741

Novato

$649,322

1985

2874

$200,557

1975

3127

$64,215

1965

1807

$30,710

$1,313,313 Residential average list price

$1,272,525 Residential average sale price

68 Average days on market

$11,500,000 338 days on market

SOURCE: BAY AREA REAL ESTATE INFORMATION SERVICES, INC., THREE-MONTH AVERAGES CALCULATED FOR MONTHS OF

SOURCE: BAY AREA REAL ESTATE INFORMATION SERVICES, INC.

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

MARCH, APRIL, AND MAY 2008

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

P H OTO C OURTESY OF D EC KER BUL LOC K/SOTH EBY ’S INTERNATI ONAL REAL ESTATE

MARIN COUNTY SALES AVERAGES SINCE 1965

MARIN AMUSINGS

BIG BUCKS We’d lived in San Francisco for many years before moving into a historic, rather oddly built Mill Valley home on Miller Avenue. Recently, while sleeping in a downstairs bedroom I was awaken at four in the morning by the definite sounds of footsteps in our upstairs living room. It had to be two men, I thought, maybe even three. After barricading the bedroom door and grabbing a steak knife, I called 911 and told the operator that a home invasion robbery was taking place. Within minutes a group of Mill Valley police swarmed around the home to catch our prowler. There was a loud ruckus upstairs and then the 911 operator told us it was safe to go to the front door and talk with the police. “We caught your prowlers,” one of the four officers said. “They were

Take Two

walking on your roof.” The au-

Raw Bar

Nick’s Tomale

dacity, I thought.

s Bay Oyster Pl

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On 20 the last leg of “And sir, they were road trip to$7 Oysters ontheir the Half Shell two of the biggest deer Yellowstone National $2 $2.5 Park in $2.Wyoming, we’ve ever seen.” 5 $2 the Reynolds family —Kerr Cooper, Ju Mill mValley bo Gulf Shrim p Cocktail of Mill Valley took Nick’s BBQ Oyst ers this shot of a gas 12 station in Reno. Mixed Baby Le Grilled Hearts Nick’s Classic

Apparently some people need extra room even on a crowded day at the Strawberry Safeway.

It’s Black and White Belvedere’s Bayside Garden Center received this request for an over-the-phone insect diagnosis: “Hi, my roses are covered with little black bugs—are they white flies?” —Karl Friday, Corte Madera

Submit amusing Marin-related photos or shorts to editorial@ marinmagazine.com. Please put “Amusings” in the subject line. Submissions may be edited for clarity and brevity.

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

Appetizers

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be roasted red po tatoes, cippolin ye i onions, Point Red Legged Fr Reye og 1331 with mounds of Appetizers s blue cheese butter Mixe cky red tape d Baby Lettsti uces 2000000 Grilled Hearts of Romaine 7 Sides NiHa tsic cknd FrLo ’s dClCu enui ch as h Fr i es 8 Brussels Spro e ut MARINMAGAZINE.COM Ro mary Parms with Smoked Bacon Tomse ales Bay Clamigiano Polenta 16 4 Chowder 18 4 Bodega Bay Du 4 ngeness Crab 9 Cakes 16 Fresh Ground

Natural Burger

Entrees

paciﬁcfertilitycenter.com

SNAP ASTON MARTIN

Dan Stephan

Jane Gibson, Karen Bierce, Bobbin Willcutt

Tom Price, Garrett Bailey

John Strickland, Francesca Best

David Swig, Joseph Brooke

Nick McGrath

Joe and Linda Diamond, Karnran Amjadi

Alexis Cooper, Rebecca Stead

David Pace, Tony Le

MARIN ARTS SALON

Luxe Living Sales manager Dan Stephan and factory represenlaunch of the new DBS, the same car that James Bond will be driving in the new 007 ﬁlm Quantum of Solace. Also in Marin, locals enjoyed the third annual Glenn and Sharon Lehrer, Stephan Guning

Alexis and Brooke Lydecker

Marin Arts Salon at the California Closets showroom in San Rafael. The weekly salons featured emerging artists, performers and designers as well as wine from Imagery Estate Winery and Kunde Estate Winery and hors d’oeuvres by All Seasons Catering. At SFMOMA’s recent art auction more than 100 lots of contemporary paintings, photography, and sculpture were presented to bidders. The museum garnered more than $1.2 million in proceeds to support exhibitions and education programs, making the auction one of the most

Joe Donza, Brooke Sobel Schell

Savannah Knoop, Hennessey Knoop, Kenlynn Wilson

successful in the museum’s history.

SFMOMA

Marty Murphy, Kathy Kamei

MARIN AUGUST 2008

Elaine McKeon, Neal Benezra, Judy Siebel

Gail Nicoletti, Carla Miller

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

PHOTO CREDIT: ASTON MARTIN & MARIN ARTS SALON/SHERI MONTOGMERY; SFMOMA/AUBRIE PICK FOR DREW ALTIZER PHOTOGRAPHY

tatives from Aston Martin welcomed guests to the

SNAP JUICY COUTURE

Kiara Hatcher, Mollie Ryan

Leslie Stewart, Lori Peterson

Brandy Anderson, Natalie Rastegar

Lindsay Kaplan, Becky Kaplan, Maddy Mayer

Blair Akin, Heather Gellert

REED SCHOOL FOUNDATION

Stephanie Kaplan, Rodolfo Arana, Michele Anderson

Fashionable Fete Fashionable Marinites celebrated the grand opening of Corte Madera’s Juicy Couture with perfectly pink macaroons, champagne and shopping. In Tiburon, the Reed School Foundation presented a spring fashion show fundraiser, complete with local moms as runway models. Each year the foundation raises money to pay for the difference in funds of what the state of California pays and what it actually costs to educate a child. San Francisco Opera Guild event cochairs Patricia Ferrin Loucks and Jennifer Smith, along with Nordstrom, teamed up for the Designer Fete 2008, which welcomed more than 500 guests and raised nearly $100,000 for children’s music education. Nonproﬁt Image for Success

Lori Buckley, Mimi Breck, Elaine Nolan, Liz Canady

raised nearly $50,000 at its annual luncheon in San Rafael.

OPERA GUILD

Pamela Zaragoza, Patricia Loucks

MARIN AUGUST 2008

IMAGE FOR SUCCESS

Melissa Richardson, Amy Glass, Sobia Shaikh, Elizabeth Ure

Deirdre Sheerin, Deborah Santana

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

#HRISTIE S 'REAT %STATES )NTERNATIONAL ,UXURY 2EAL %STATE 3PECIALISTS

#HINESE

&RENCH

'ERMAN

2USSIAN

*APANESE

)TALIAN

0ORTUGUESE

%NGLISH

)F 9OU -ARKET TO THE 7ORLD 9OU HAVE TO 3PEAK THE ,ANGUAGE WWW CHRISTIESGREATESTATES COM

WWW PACUNION COM

SNAP SUNNY HILLS

Kris Rockwell, Laura Rockwell

Dana King

Zachary Hyman, Joe Costa, Matthew Hyman

CHANCONNE

New Beginnings Recently Journey keyboardist Jonathan Cain celebrated the release of his ﬁrst pinot noir, Chanconne, the result of a collaboration with his friend Dennis De La Montanya. In attendance was oenophile and radio host Ziggy “The Wine Gal” Eschliman, who Jonathan Cain, Ziggy “The Wine Gal” Eschliman

said, “The wine tasted incredible!”. San Anselmo-based Sunny Hills Services held “The Power of Love: Opening Our Hearts to Children in Need” as a beneﬁt to serve the agency’s program–that helps emotionally disturbed children. The Godmothers

DOMINICAN

of Timothy Murphy School held their ninth annual English Garden Party Bingo at St. Vincent’s School for Boys. The Godmothers are a group who actively support the school’s educational programs through fundraising and direct ﬁnancial contributions, as well as donating time and talents to promote a nurturing environment for the boys. At the Mill Valley Community Center the third annual Summer Search luncheon was a sold-out event with 400 attendees. At the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in San Francisco, Dominican University of California hosted a festive black-tie dinner to honor President Joseph R. Fink and his 20 years of vision and service to the Marin institution.

John Allen, Joseph Fink, John Gaulding

SUMMER SEARCH

Jay Jacobs, Erin Elliott, Robin Bacci, Jessica Vibberts, Liz Hale

PHOTO CREDIT: SUNNY HILLS/ DREW ALTIZER

GODMOTHERS

Lynn Elliott, Janet Barton

MARIN AUGUST 2008

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

BEND OREGON

DOES THE THOUGHT OF ST. ANDREWS REMIND YOU OF HOME? IT WILL NOW.

DAVID McL AY KIDD, COURSE ARCHITECT & RESIDENT

When your home course shares the same architect as the famous links of Scotland and heathland-style fairways line your neighborhood, you’re home in Tetherow. This spectacular 700acre golf resort community features the latest design of legendary golf architect, David McLay Kidd – renowned from St. Andrews to Bandon Dunes. Just four miles from beautiful downtown Bend, Oregon, enjoy exceptional resort living on your own custom home site.

H O M E S I T E S N O W AVA I L A B L E V I S I T T E T H E R O W. C O M

541.318.1234

WARNING: THE CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF REAL ESTATE HAS NOT INSPECTED, EXAMINED, OR QUALIFIED THIS OFFERING. No Federal THE GOLF COURSE AT TETHEROW HAS ENROLLED IN THE AUDUBON SIGNATURE PROGRAM.

agency has judged the merits of value, if any, of this property. Access to amenities may be subject to payment EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY of fees, membership requirements and other restrictions.

SNAP MAYACAMA

PLAYDATE

Jeff Johnson, Branford Marsalis, Mike Montgomery, Brook Clyde

John and Lisa O’Hurley

Tyler Florence, Rich Wineﬁeld

Greg Baty, Dwight Clark

The Great Outdoors In celebration of the Bay Area Discovery Museum’s 20th anniversary, the Playdate 2008 fundraiser was bigger than ever, with over 500 people in attendance. Guests enjoyed the setting overlooking Horseshoe Cove and exciting auction items like “The Ultimate Bubble Q” a champagne barbecue with celebrity chef Tyler Florence. The event raised Ron Hansmen, John Fruth, Ed Sillari

$570,000 for the museum. Mayacama, one of wine country’s premier private golf, lodging and wine clubs, held its

AUDUBON CENTER

seventh annual celebrity golf tournament to raise money for Sonoma County Children’s Charities. The 115-player tournament included John O’Hurley and Dwight Clark of the 49ers and, along with the auction, raised more than $225,000 for the local charity. In Tiburon, art lovers and friends of the Richardson Bay Audubon Center gathered at the Lyford House to view rare, life-size, hand-colored etchings by 19th-century wildlife artist John James Audubon. At Cavallo Point, Friends of the Earth’s Green Ball was a success, with over 300 people turning out for PHOTO CREDIT: MAYACAMA/HEATHER WILEY FOR DREW ALITZER PHOTOGRAPHY

the fundraiser. Brooke Langston, Laura Alber, Stephanie Waskin

GREEN BALL

Robin Williams, Mike Freed

MARIN AUGUST 2008

Shirley Loube, Mark Leno, Marcia Rodgers

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

“The Fine Art of Fine Property” Tracy McLaughlin Named Marin’s top producing agent for 2007 with 100 million sold. Specializing in Marin County Properties since 1997.

Tracy McLaughlin 415/464-8686 www.marinfinehomes.com tracy@marinfinehomes.com

FA S H I ON TRENDS

stylish tiny tots Even the youngest members of your brood deserve a stylish wardrobe that’s still functional and comfy for their growing bodies. Top choices include Riley Roos, which feature a ﬂexible and padded sole, or Baby Banz, a line of wraparound UV sunglasses for babies and toddlers. And if possible, keep it local — Stanford University grad Stacy Phillips’s company, Zebi, cuts and sews its cute kerchief bibs here in the Bay Area.

— somer flaherty

1. Baby sunglasses by Baby Banz, $15 at Baby Banz. 810.688.7178, ebabybanz.com

2. Kerchief bib by Zebi Baby , available at Mabuhay (SF). 415.970.0369, zebibaby.com

3. Limeade Belle shoes by Riley Roos, $28 at Goodnite Moon (Corte Madera). 415.945.0677

4. Market sling by Serena and Lily, $129 at Mill Valley Baby and 2

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

Kids (Mill Valley). 415.381.8639, mvbabyandkids.com

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

t a e ! D e h Save t he D t e v a S ! e S a v e t h e Da t e ! S a v e t h e Da t ate!

BLIS

E U Q I T U O B

20 8 0

A N E XCLU SI V E SH O P P I N G EV E NT F R O M M A R I N M AGA Z I N E SATU RDAY, S EPT EM B ER 6T H • 1 0 A M — 4 P M • $ 5 ID ESST H ALL , 51 1 CALE DONIA ST RE E T, AT BE E ST RE E T, SAUSALITO Fabulous shopping and rafﬂe opportunities for prized designer items. Find the best fall fashions and save on summer selections from your favorite local boutiques. A portion of the proceeds go to Marin Abused Women’s Services

Event Production:

FA S H I ON TRENDS

kids skip into summer looks 3

Sometimes it seems that summer was made for kids. Let them run wild in easy-to-wear looks that work just as easily on vacation as they do in your own backyard. —s.f.

1. Fly-Bot shirt by Bunny and Bee, $28 at Citrus (Tiburon). 415.435.1321, bunnyandbee.com 2. 0’Rally tee by Appaman, $28 at Mill Valley Baby & Kids (Mill Valley). 3. Smokin’ Cat Lobster shoe by Sugar, $30 at Piperlime. 1.877.Piperlime 4. Griffin cord by Craft Cord, $68 at Peek Aren’t You Curious (Corte Madera). 415.945.0100, peekarentyoucurious.com

5. Marin dress, $62 at Peek Aren’t You Curious (Corte Madera). 415.945.0100. 6. Floral print dress by Janie and Jack, $48 at Janie and Jack (Corte Madera). 415.924.7210, janieandjack.com

5 6

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

garage : simplified

bedroom home office

family room media room utility area

Call today for a free in-home consultation 415.455.1200 | californiaclosets.com 610A DuBois Street, San Rafael

Ask about our New Year Special!

FA S H I ON

lifestyle Name Eric Zener Home Mill Valley Occupation Artist

August marks Eric Zener’s third pool-themed cover for Marin Magazine. A psychology and sociology major at UC Santa Barbara, Zener went on to make his living as a painter and has done so for nearly 20 years. His advice to budding artists is simple: making a “career” out of art is about discipline and strategy. You need to always be an artist when you are creating, but it is a business when you are not. Allow for creative natural ﬂow, but at the same time develop a recognizable style. Lastly, don’t take “rejection” personally. Timing and serendipity are everything.

What are you wearing? I am pretty much a jeans and T-shirt guy. Where would you wear this outfit? Unless I have to get dressed up, pretty much everywhere. Describe your personal style. Simple,

How long does it take you to get ready in the morning? I am so not a morning person. Once I fall out of bed, though, I can get out the door pretty fast. 44

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

P H OTO: BARBA RA R IE S

clean aesthetic.

Who are your fashion influences? I grew up on the beach so I still feel most comfortable in surf and skate wear. Favorite designers? Huh...? Where do you love to shop in Marin? Wherever my wife takes me. Where do you like to eat in Marin? Fish,

get it at the apple

Guaymas, at home with friends and family. The blonde in the paintings—would you call her your muse? Most of the paintings are

inspired by my amazing wife; however, it is

my intention that the imagery reflect something about all of us. I hope that people identify themselves in the work.

Do you listen to any particular music when

you paint? NPR and Radiohead top the list. What’s your sport? Swimming and running.

What is always in your bag/pockets? iPhone and lunch money.

What is the single most essential piece in your wardrobe? Sunglasses.

What would you never be caught dead in? A dress. What do you splurge on? Vacations.

w ww.s h o pgre e n a ppl e s .c o m

can project themselves into the subject and

What’s your fashion pet peeve? Trying too hard. What’s the most expensive thing you’ve ever bought? Real estate in Marin! Did it make you happy? Yes! Our family loves living here! If your life were a movie, what would be your theme song? Just about anything from

green apples 1 1 0 c a l e do n i a s t re e t, s a u s a l i t o

In Rainbows by Radiohead. MARINMAGAZINE.COM

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

Life, returned to its pre-junkyard state. Remember when life wasn’t so cluttered and chaotic? Upgrade the junkyard. With premium cabinetry, versatile wall storage, striking floor finishes and hundreds of cool ways to organize that avalanche of stuff. We handle everything from the 3D drawings to final installation. And the consultation is also on the house (or in this case, garage). Life minus junk equals joy.

415.456.4474

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Calm. Cool. Very Collected.

FYI

FOR YOUR INFORMATION GREEN

Making the Biodegrade Lunch bags kids can reuse — or toss with a clean conscience by mimi towle

THIS YEAR’S SCHOOL-LUNCH SET HAS YET ANOTHER GREEN OPTION:

ments, flexible and durable polyvinyl chloride has long been the digital

reusable, biodegradable lunch bags. These treated-vinyl kid-sized meal

ad industry’s material of choice—so stable it’s often used to line the bot-

totes are produced by Streamline Graphix, a graphic media company that

tom of landfills. BIOflex, however, is engineered to break down in the

makes environmentally friendly digital advertising banners and billboards

darkness, heat and moisture of a landfill setting within five years.

by using eco-solvent (low-fume) inks on a material called BIOflex — which

PH OTO: TI M PORTER

its distributor touts as the first-ever biodegradable PVC.

Slattery’s first BIOflex carriers were a few extra-large surfboard bags he made for his buddies, but once he took note of how many lunch box-

“Our industry is not known as eco-friendly,” concedes Bill Slattery,

es his three school-age girls lost throughout the year, he got the idea for

who with wife Nancy has run Streamline Graphix for eight years. “But

the meal-size tote. The bags can be reused indefinitely, but if they are

since we’ve been looking to shrink our environmental footprint and at

lost or tossed, they will biodegrade. To make the product, Slattery de-

the same time meet our clients’ increased environmental expectations,

cided “to join forces with our friends at Sally Spicer Bags,” he says. “The

we searched high and low for a product we could stand behind.” How

crew at Sally Spicer are also conscious about helping the environment,

does it qualify? Since an outdoor banner needs to withstand the ele-

and with their bag expertise, the biodegradable lunch bag was born.”

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

F Y I H OM E DECO R

A PEACEFUL RETREAT

Fountains make a splash Transform your garden into a backyard oasis with the soothing sound of flowing water. A fountain can create serenity in even the most hectic home, and it’s the perfect addition to an outdoor retreat during the hot summer months. —S.F.

3 1

1. Copper fountain by Smith and Hawken, $279 at Smith and Hawken (Mill Valley). 415.381.1800, smithandhawken.com 2. Curved Waterwall by Stone Forest, $4,000 at Stone Forest. 888.682.2987, stoneforest.com 3. Solas Fountain by Ceres and Solas, price upon request at Charles Swanson. 888.636.3015, bovstudios.com 4. Flowing Water Series by Ceres and Solas, price upon request at Charles Swanson. 888.636.3015, bovstudios.com

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

GO FISH?

SANDRA BIRD DESIGNS If you’ve got a large enough waterfall you may want to add goldfish or koi; however, neighborhood explorers like the family cat, raccoons and even skunks may drop by looking for a free lunch. To fend them off, Chris Untermann, owner of San Rafael’s West End Nursery, suggests buying a fountain that has a big enough bowl to support fish life and to keep mammals, who need solid footing to capture their meal, at bay. The best solution is netting over the fountain—although it may not be as visually enticing—or installing a motion-sensitive alarm. Should fountain water be treated? “Assuming that fish are not involved, it is not necessary to treat fountain water,” says Untermann. “ That being said, if the water is left untreated or the fountain is not continually cleaned the water will eventually get dirty and algae will grow all over the fountain, and most likely eventually clog the pump. There are special fountain cleaning solutions that are available to help with this problem. A lot of people ask if they can clean their fountains with bleach or chlorine. While both of these work great to clean the water, most all of the fountains that we sell are painted and both of these will eat away at the paint over time, and it is very hard to repaint them. If you have fish in the fountain, make sure to find a solution that doesn’t harm fish or your pets or birds if they drink from the water in the fountain.”

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

As featured on the Ross Valley Garden Tour Photo by: David Livingston

A DESIGN BUILD FIRM 240 Magnolia Avenue, Larkspur CA • 415.927.1171 www.sandrabirddesigns.com

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

F Y I E D UCAT I O N

Wait, Wait, Tell Me… New York has puzzlemaster Will Shortz. In Marin we have Dr. Gary Gruber. BY M I M I TOW L E

MARIN

hen 10-year-old Gary Gruber sat down to take

he would always solve the problem. He began to create strat-

an IQ test in 1950 he bombed. Five decades

egies for formulating different types of questions.

later he has a vague memory of the test, but a

As a high schooler Gruber was again a concern to his

vivid recollection of what his teacher told his mother: “Your

teachers—not for his low test scores, but for the suggestions

son has an IQ of 90—below normal.” Devastated, young

he relentlessly scribbled in the margins for ways they might

Gruber nevertheless suspected there was more wrong with

improve test questions. Many years later, his system-bucking

the test than with his brainpower. “My father [a high school

style led him to a discussion with the creators of the SAT.

teacher] got hold of the same test I took,” he recalls. “I ana-

After researching test scores, he discovered that when the

lyzed why the questions were being asked and how one could

word “always” was inserted into a math problem, minority

solve them.” In the yet-to-be-produced after-school special on

students in the San Francisco School District scored signifi-

Gruber’s life, this is where we insert the shot of the sun shin-

cantly higher, and he suggested continuing the practice to

ing through parted clouds—his “aha moment.” The motivat-

encourage the correct answers.

ed preteen realized that instead of rushing to find a quick

Dr. Shirley Thornton, now on the Sausalito school board,

answer, if he took his time and used a little critical thinking

was the principal of Balboa High School in San Francisco

AUGUST 2008

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

at the time and remembers her impression of Gruber: eccentric and brilliant. “Using Gary Gruber’s test-taking strategies made an unbelievable difference in my students’ test scores,” she adds. “He would come to the school and do workshops with the teachers on how to take tests. I was always amazed more teachers (and schools) didn’t use his methods. Using Gary’s test taking strategies, my students showed an average increase of 125 points on the SAT.” Fifty years after the aforementioned IQ test, this Mill Valley resident’s life résumé includes a stint as professor of physics and astronomy at Hofstra University in New York and as chief editor in physics and mathematics for Cambridge University Press, as well as authorship of more than 30 books on test preparation and mind-bending equations. Gruber also creates puzzles and brainteasers for national magazines and newspapers. “Coming up with new problems gives me a good and satisfying feeling,” he says. “By developing problems and solving them I not only enjoy the challenge, but feel I am constantly keeping my mind in shape. And the thing that is most gratifying is that I am giving others the same challenge, excitement and mental development.”

A SIMPLE GRUBER QUIZ 1. Two U.S. coins add up to 30 cents. If one of them is not a nickel, what are the two coins? 2. You are competing in a linear race and overtake the runner in second place. In which position are you now? a) first b) second c) third d) fourth e) cannot be determined 3. Is it possible for a man in Marin County to marry his widow’s sister? 1. A quarter and a nickel ( be careful of what the wording says: One is not a nickel, but the other is) 2. You overtook the second runner and took his place. Therefore you are now in second. 3. Watch the wording: A widow has lost her husband. His widow would be his present wife, but he is dead so that’s impossible. If the wording said “a widow’s sister,” then it would be possible since he would not be her dead husband.

ANSWERS: MARINMAGAZINE.COM

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

F Y I R E A L E STATE

Hitting Home Recent Marin County buyers’ and sellers’ stories BY J I M WO O D

t’s relentless. Newspapers and newscasts keep shouting: “Mortgage crisis continuing,” “Real estate bubble bursting,” “Home sales dropping.” What kind of person would venture into a real estate market so pummeled by negativity? “Crazy people, like us,” answers Chris Koehler, who in May bought a $1.7 million Tiburon home with partner Chuck Reite before their current home was even in escrow. Marin’s residential real estate pool has not just “cooled off, but is downright chilly,” as one local realty agent

puts it. Even though Marin has mostly avoided the double-digit home price drop afflicting much of California and the nation, the county’s foreclosure rate doubled in the first quarter of this year, with 314 properties facing default. Still, even as sales lag (down 37 percent in May from the year before), local home prices continue to climb, rising 19 percent in May from a year earlier to $1.1 million —a sure signal of the county’s ongoing appeal and long-term value. Those qualities–—and a view to die for –— are what enticed Koehler and Reite to plunge into their buy-before-selling escapade. “It was a high-wire act,” says Reite. “But because of the neighbors and the views we always wanted to live on this street.”

Risky business Seven years ago, Koehler, who’s with the Tiburon Peninsula Chamber of Commerce, and Reite, a San Rafael administrative judge, would walk from their small Tiburon condo down Vistazo West Street to an open space with unmatchable vistas of the town, the bay and the San Francisco skyline. “There are less than a dozen homes on this part of Vistazo,”

looked seriously at three of them.” Yet nothing ever connected. Eventually, they bought a 1950s three-bedroom production home in a nice but viewless nearby neighborhood. “We paid around a mil-

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P H OTO: TIM P ORTER

says Koehler, “and we’ve made offers for or

lion bucks,” says Reite. “And we continued to wait for a Vistazo West home to come on the market,” adds Koehler, “and waited.”

Friedman & Associates

Five years had passed when she got word that a Vistazo West house fronting on open space was on the market at the attractive price

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of $1.6 million. “I rushed up there and it was a buyer’s frenzy,” Koehler says. “By the time Chuck saw it, four offers were already in.” Ironically, although Koehler and Reite paid $100,000 over the asking price and got the house, they weren’t the high bidder. “What won it for us,” says Reite, “were three things: We were pre-qualified for a loan, we agreed to a three-week escrow, and we knew values in the area.” The couple put their other home, the cozy but viewless one, on the market immediately. But, says Koehler, a laugh in her voice, “we closed on our Vistazo West home before any offers were in.” It was a risky move, says Reite, because “a two-mortgage family isn’t a happy family.” Within a week, though, the couple got a cash offer. “And it was $500,000 more than we paid for it five years earlier,” says Reite. “That’s more than I made in 30 years of practicing law.”

A seller’s success story Another couple who maneuvered successfully through the tepid Marin real estate market is Mark and Susie Millstein (pictured on opposite page). Their story is also anything but typ-

Caring for Your Wealth and Well-Being

ical. Mark is a residential real estate developer, Susie an interior designer. They have two children, ages 5 and 8. In September 2004, the family bought a nondescript home with a cracked tennis court on a sunny, level acre in the San Anselmo com-

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munity of Sleepy Hollow. The purchase was a business venture. “We occupied the house for a year,” says Suzie, “and that gave us a feel for how it ‘lived.’” Then, says Mark “we moved out and

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practically tore the place down.”

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The ensuing planning, designing, permitting, constructing, landscaping and furnishing took two and a half years. “When we started,” says Mark, “we didn’t have a target selling price in mind—we simply wanted to create a unique product.” And that they did. The Millsteins built a stunning four-bedroom, six-bath, 7,000-squarefoot estate that has a rebuilt tennis court, a spacious solar-heated, black bottom pool and nearby hot tub and pool house. “Of course there are other features that make the home special for Marin,” says Susie. Her husband ticks them off: “High ceilings, large rooms, center courtyard design, subtle colors and fixtures, plus a steam bath and sauna. It has the contemporary yet traditional touches of a Four Seasons Hotel.” It has, adds Susie, an ‘always-on-vacation’ feel to it.” Creating that feeling was costly, especially for Sleepy Hollow, a bedroom community whose nearest market is two miles away and whose highest home sale ever was about $3.5 million. Regardless, the Millsteins put their resort home on the market in early 2008 for a record $5.9 million.

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“I thought if we stayed true to our aesthetics and created a unique product,” says Susie, “it would sell in any market.” Mark had a different take. “I took a global approach,” he says. “The upper echelon of the world’s buyers aren’t affected by market ups and downs.” The home sold for nearly the asking price within a week—all cash. The buyers are an American business executive and his family who have been living out of the country and had looked coast-to-coast before settling on Marin and Sleepy Hollow.

Outside looking in The Marin real estate market is conflicted— slower sales, but steadily rising prices. With such mixed signals, it’s important to look at the market in context. Who better to provide

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An Evening with that vision than a “corporate gypsy,” an itiner-

NANCY PELOSI

ant executive wanting to move to Marin from Doylestown, Pennsylvania. “I recently accepted the position of VP of sales and marketing for Transcept Pharmaceuticals in Point Richmond,” says 51-year-old Terry Moore, “and now I have to find a place to live. My wife and I really like Marin County.” Complicating Moore’s search are Marin’s prices and the home he has to sell back in Doylestown, part of upscale Bucks County in suburban Philadelphia.

KNOW YOUR POWER: A MESSAGE TO AMERICA’S DAUGHTERS When Nancy Pelosi became the ﬁrst woman Speaker of the House, she made history. She gaveled the House to order that day on behalf of all of America’s children and said, “We have made history, now let us make progress.”

“Our home is only nine years old,” says Moore. “It’s 7,500 square feet with four bedrooms and five baths in a bucolic setting with nearly two acres surrounding it.” He uses that space to enjoy his custom-built pool table, display his guitar collection and accommodate his wife’s grand piano, a family heirloom. Here’s the rub: Moore’s storybook Pennsylvania home is listed at $1.275 million. Moore and his wife, Ellen, have looked at properties in Sausalito, Mill Valley, San Anselmo, Larkspur and Corte Madera. Their kids are grown and gone, so they’re willing

She continues to inspire women everywhere with a new thoughtprovoking book entitled Know Your Power: A Message to America’s Daughters. This is a collection of wise words–her own and those of the important people who played pivotal roles in her journey. She encourages mothers and grandmothers, daughters and granddaughters to never lose faith, to speak out and make their voices heard, to focus on what matters most and follow their dreams wherever they may lead.

to compromise but, says Moore, “the sticker shock has been overwhelming.”

Please bring your daughters and granddaughters–come be inspired.

“Seriously,” he says, “we’re seeking counseling.” His solution so far? “We’re thinking about buying a Winnebago motor home and staying

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in a Wal-Mart parking lot,” he says. “But we can’t find a Wal-Mart.”

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Real estate info Chris Koehler and Chuck Reite were repre-

Presented by:

sented by Barbara Major of Vision Real Estate. Mark and Susie Millstein were represented by Tracy McLaughlin of Morgan Lane Real Estate. Buyer’s agent was Max Applegarth of Decker Bullock Sotheby’s International

Media Sponsor:

Real Estate. Terry and Ellen Moore are represented by Penny Wright-Mulligan of Decker Bullock Sotheby’s International Real Estate.

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C O N V ERSAT ION

Helge Hellberg At the helm of Marin Organic I N T E RV I E W BY M I M I TOW L E

e’s an anomaly. A non-punctual, somewhat impulsive German and a successful musician-turned-environmentalist who’s now at the helm of Marin Organic, an association of farmers and ranchers advocating for smallscale and sustainable agriculture. Hellberg

and his crew have made impressive strides in just four years, an achievement brought to the world’s notice three years ago with the royal visit by Prince Charles and Camilla. “The publicity generated $30 million in comparable advertisement value of print articles and news stories promoting West Marin and local agriculture around the world,” Hellberg says. “For a week, it was all about where food comes from and who grows it and a sane, artisanal approach to food production. Because of their visit, we are now working (on these issues) with communities far beyond our county line.” The buzz traveled as far as a hair salon in India, where Hellberg’s mother spotted a magazine cover picturing him touring the Point Reyes Farmers’ Market with the prince. “She was ecstatic,” he says, “and got her hair cut for free. Those are the perks you get when you work for a great nonprofit.” We talked with Hellberg at Fish restaurant in Sausalito, where he sat with Timber, the black Belgian shepherd he adopted from the Marin Humane Society.

Your background was not in farming. How did you end up in the organic food movement? I fell into the organic movement by default, or rather fate. I was a musician, traveling 200 days a year—an unplanned dream had come true and I could live my passion. Only problem was my

people and have the audience sing along with every song, it was the most unsustainable lifestyle I could have chosen for myself. I hadn’t found myself, had no spiritual practice, had not grown my own roots. After 10 years, it was time for a change, so I quit my band and relocated to the Bay Area. I needed a break from the music business and with a degree in marketing and communications, I ended up working for Wild Oats Markets as their Northern California marketing man-

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P H OTO: TIM P ORTER

entire identity was wrapped up with my band, so while it was amazing to play in front of 3,000

ager. Quite a change from being a musician. So

ly made dairy products or mushrooms, among

have pesticides or genetically engineered crops

I understood the basic premises of organic agri-

other foods.

closer to your home, making “local” without

culture and of course it seemed smart to avoid

I was surprised to learn that not many peo-

any other commitment not enough. And “or-

pesticides as much as I possibly could. I wanted

ple in the United States knew all that much

ganic” could mean a couple thousand acres of

to learn more, and I also always liked the peo-

about it. Chernobyl had at a minimum 20 times

one crop shipped in from halfway around the

ple I met at health food stores; there was a lot

the radioactive equivalent of the bombs dropped

globe. So don’t get me wrong: we are lucky

of passion and knowledge in regard to nutri-

on Hiroshima and Nagasaki, and it had a huge

to have organic standards that actually define

tion and healthy living in general.

impact on me personally. It still has an impact

how things can and cannot be grown, but the

on the people living there. Deformations in

true answer is our food, as much as possible,

Were you an environmentalist in Germany?

children and all kinds of cancers are very com-

has to be local and organic. We as the food sup-

Not in the classic sense as “environmentalism”

mon. It’s worth Googling the topic and taking

ply must go even beyond organic to address the

is perceived nowadays. Yes, I demonstrated

in what 99 percent safety of nuclear power can

environmental, cultural, social and economic

against nuclear power in my teens, and since

mean. We have to create solutions that keep all

challenges we face as a society. In Marin we are

I grew up spending a lot of time on a sailboat,

beings safe, 100 percent.

creating a model where on fairly small acreage

nature was a huge part of my life. In regard

The interesting thing is that 20 years later,

a farmer can survive and be economically vi-

to food, in Germany, as in all of Europe, the

while people are still suffering intensely in that

able, where we protect riparian habitat through

organic movement is different than it is in the

part of the Ukraine, some reports state that wild-

Marin Organic’s Salmon Safe Program to en-

states. Here it comes from an ecological move-

life has come back to the area around the reactor

sure the salmon is coming back, and where

ment, originating from the ’70s and the oil

and it is now a habitat for endangered species

we offer healthy food to 12,000 students a

crisis and back-to-the-land movement, with a strong grassroots social justice and equality connotation. In Europe, concern for food origin has been driven mainly by calamities such as Chernobyl—we were advised to not eat dairy or mushrooms for a couple of years—and then mad cow disease, which has kept us wary of

With the loss of topsoil we are virtually losing our future. We depend on those few inches of rich, healthy organic soil for our food, feed and ﬁber. Beyond that, we are now learning that soil is the key to reversing global warming.

our beef and meat sources. Just as bad was when they found antifreeze in wine, historical-

such as wolf, bear and bald eagle. Truth is that

week through our School Lunch and Gleaning

ly a staple of German culture.

animals have a different radiologic tolerance

Program. In addition to our events and educa-

It became very important to know where

than humans, which again shows the intelligence

tional efforts, we are bringing community to-

your food was coming from and who grew it

of nature: there is infinite wisdom in the web of

gether at the Point Reyes Farmers’ Market.

and what exactly was in it. Eating healthier in

life and all its interconnectedness, and we hu-

However, nationwide we are losing more

Germany means basically the same as in the

mans often don’t understand or accept this. We

than 400 farms a week. According to U.S.

United States: to eat “bio” foods, locally raised,

have some ways to go, but luckily, through the

Department of Labor statistics, this amounts to

and what we call organic.

great work that is being done, this awareness is

over 2 million farms lost in the past four de-

changing and expanding. I feel blessed to be part

cades. And it’s not only the farms and rural

Back to Chernobyl: what do you mean by

of Marin Organic, which does its share of the

communities that are lost, but in most cases—

“couldn’t eat dairy for years”? I think the re-

work that is so urgently needed. Through food

because somebody thinks we need yet another

ality of Chernobyl was never fully reported in

awareness we are actually changing people’s

shopping mall—the topsoil is plowed over and

the U.S. A nuclear power plant blew up and we

awareness of ecology and ultimately how people

that’s really what it’s all about: topsoil.

(Germany) were just a couple thousand miles

relate to their internal and external environment.

away. We had reports of cesium-137 levels in

That’s when true healing begins.

I’ve read about it for the past 10 years and I understood it intellectually, but it took a while for me to fully get it and have it become an

our rainfall every day in the news, you weren’t suppose to go outside in the rain for a few

Local or organic? What is the best choice for

experience. With the loss of topsoil we are vir-

months, and we were asked not to eat local-

the planet? Neither is sufficient. You might

tually losing our future. We depend on those

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AUGUST 2008

few inches of rich, healthy organic soil for our food, feed and fiber. But it even goes beyond that, as we are now learning that soil is the key to reversing global warming. There is only

c o l or f u l !

a finite amount of carbon on the planet—it’s either in the ocean, in the atmosphere, in the soil or in life forms such as humans. Because of excessive plowing since the mid-1900s we have released too much carbon into the atmosphere, and we know that stopping all greenhouse emissions today would not be enough to reverse global warming. We must pull additional carbon out of the atmosphere and store, or sequester, it back into our soils.

So the phrase “ashes to ashes” provides a key to our future? Yes, we do not just depend on our soil, we are our soil. Ashes to ashes, from carbon back to carbon. A group of dedicated soil scientists and ranchers in West Marin under the name Marin Carbon Project are now researching which land management methods would be the most successful in sequestering carbon back into our soils. First, a baseline of carbon is defined throughout different soil types, and then will be remeasured every few months. We are hopeful that practices such as managementintensive grazing will prove successful. The thought is that grass responds to being cut

The best color in the whole world is the one that looks good, on you!

with intensified growth, and this new growth takes carbon from the atmosphere and puts it into the soil. So all of a sudden that grass-fed burger is looking pretty darn good. While industrial livestock feedlots have been a significant contributor to global warming, properly

–coco chanel

PHOTO: BIANCA

managed and “carbon-focused” herding could be the solution. Excellent stewardship of our soil is the key to addressing global warming, and the key to our survival. The answer is right in front of us, or rather under our feet. Again, it’s about creative problem solving, and connecting the dots more wisely than we perhaps have in the past.

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ACCESSORY PHOTOS: ANNA BECK

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Despite being a community of farmers who could be adversely affected by the light brown apple moth, Marin Organic was opposed to the spraying. Why? Marin Organic was the

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first agricultural organization in the state that opposed the aerial spraying of urban areas until all environmental and public health concerns were addressed. Unfortunately, though,

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it’s not that simple, and stopping the spraying does not make the pest go away. And if the apple moth will not cause any economic damage to our farms, we already know that the next pest is just around the corner. There are hundreds of invasive pests on the federal watch list that would enjoy California’s climate, and it’s only a matter of time until they will get here. We have reduced border controls of crop and nursery stock inspections and at the same time have opened up our markets for international trade—a perfect scenario for pests to travel and enter our state. We have to work on solutions, on how to manage any pest properly and responsibly. Marin Organic stands for local, small-scale, organic agriculture—the healthiest way to produce food. And our producer members are constantly trying to strengthen the ecological balance they are living and working within. Of course, that’s the goal: ecological balance, where pests are largely managed by natural predators, and the farmer merely stimulates and supports the beneficial forces at work. Throughout the U.S., agriculture is far from this model and it will take a few years to return to it. So as a community, while we were successful in stopping the spraying, we need to be bigger than the challenge and understand that it will take a systems change. It will take working with our local, state and federal government, working on solutions, going to meetings, over and over again. Fighting the system is one way, but I believe there is enough fighting going on already on this planet and conflict is not a wise use of resources. We have to stand firm on what we believe in and need to engage with every level of public policy and reclaim our responsibility and opportunity in this democracy. Engagement, that’s Marin Organic’s way. We need to realize that we are the government. Only half the population voted in the

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last presidential election, and even less [did

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so] locally. Our state election in June had a 22 percent turnout—22 percent! We need to take full responsibility for having created the system we are now living within—which means we are also the ones who can change it. And change it we will. It’s very empowering when you see it this way. I am excited about the future.

Taste of Marin, Marin Organic’s yearly fete/ feast is not happening this year, why? Taste of Marin is a collaboration between Marin Organic and our partners Marin Agricultural Land Trust and Marin Farmers Markets. This year, we want to support Slow Food Nation, which is all about sustainable artisan food production, and in a way celebrating nationally in San Francisco what we have already created here in West Marin. Slow Food Nation is expecting 50,000 people for that Labor Day weekend at Fort Mason and I believe the event will change food awareness nationally taking author Michael Pollan’s (of The Omnivore’s Dilemma) message into the mainstream media; “Eat only food that your grandmother would recognize.” I hope things like equality and social justice will come into play as well. We have some of the best food producers in the nation in Marin—award-winning cheeses, dairy, olive oil, varieties of meats, fruit, a great variety of gorgeous vegetables, seafood, and so much more—and we will incorporate this abundance as much as possible into Slow Food Nation. The weekend schedule is packed with educational events, film screenings, tastings and dinners where you can meet the farmers and ranchers and fisherman who actually produced and harvested this food. We will have a great opportunity to raise the awareness about real food, and to showcase our many programs and initiatives that Marin Organic, MALT, Marin Farmers Market, UC Cooperative Extension, the Marin County Farm Bureau and many other organizations are working on in Marin. We are also offering tours of organic

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portunity here in Marin and we need every-

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one’s support in this work. We are creating a model of small-scale organic agriculture that works: it’s a win-win-win, for the farmer, the environment and the community. Sometimes people ask me why local food seems to be more expensive, and I explain to them that when you buy “locally” the price reflects the true costs of what it took to grow this food. In the supermarket, most items contain ingredients that are heavily subsidized by your tax dollar, such as high-fructose corn syrup, for example, so you paid for it already. Then there are costs for cleaning up soil, air and water that industrialized production pollutes—usually paid for by our tax dollars

D I S C O V E R M A R I N ’S M O S T E XTRAORDINARY MARKET!

again. So cheap food, or cheap anything, is an illusion. Someone else pays for the difference in price compared to the real costs of what it took to produce a product. Usually who pays for it is the laborer who gets pennies for his or her work, or the environment, or our health. There is no shortcut in production. Someone will pay for it. If we can show the world how to successfully manage our land and the ocean sustainably, then we can truly invoke positive change. We have a choice—there are over 50 restaurants and businesses in Marin that are partners of Marin Organic on our website, committed to doing their share in this work.

full service catering

From restaurants to “green banking” with New Resource Bank, from Good Earth and other retail stores to Marin Solar, from Ode

local ﬂoral delivery

Magazine to EO body care products to Cavallo Point, the new lodge at Fort Baker—all these businesses are local and run with the same ideology and passion for the environment and for one another. Take this restaurant as an example, Fish. The best seafood in Marin, and with every dollar spent here, literally with every bite, you are creating the future you want. Healthy, safe, fair and abundant. The opportunity to change the world is right on our plate. Isn’t that amazing? It’s all up to us.

To learn more about this topic: Visit marinorganic.org, marincarbonproject.org

5627 Paradise Drive in Corte Madera • 415 945-8855 Open Monday—Saturday • 8am–8pm • Espresso & Pastries at 7am

and marinclimateinitiative.com.

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editors’ choice PEOPLE, ACTIVITIES, FOOD, FASHION, HOME & GARDEN

day of walking at Stinson, a night of camping at Kirby Cove. Fresh saba at Sushi Ran, an icy cosmo at the Buckeye.

Ballet classes for kids and Little League at Boyle Park. A ferry ride to Angel Island and another to S.F. Cheap sunglasses, expensive shoes and Tony’s to repair them. Green buildings, reclaimed hardwoods and native plant seeds. People who care about their community. These are a few of our favorite Marin things — and we’re sharing them with you in the next 24 pages as Marin Magazine’s 2008 Editors’ Choice selections. We hope you enjoy them as much as we do.

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[PEOPLE]

★ S T E V E CO S TA & K AT E L E V I N SON ★ Within every community are people whose daily acts improve the world around them. They guide the young, comfort the troubled or guard the environment. Most of all, they are our neighbors and for that we are

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

fortunate indeed. Here are our 2008 choices for people who make a difference in Marin.

The Community Builders Here’s how things work with Steve Costa:

just what Costa had in mind. “I had always

If you e-mail him asking him to nominate

had a dream of owning a community-serving

people for a story like this one, he sends back

business,” says Costa, “and the store’s an ex-

a dozen names. If you e-mail those dozen

tension of my work serving communities.”

people asking them the same thing, they send back Costa’s name.

The result: An ever-growing list of projects, from author signings to Spanish-language

In the six years since Costa, a former

readings to a nationally noted conference on

community organizer in Oakland, suggested

writer William Stegner to a guiding hand in

to his wife, psychologist Kate Levinson, that

the founding of the West Marin Review liter-

they buy the Point Reyes Bookstore, they have

ary and arts journal.

turned it into a cauldron of ideas about com-

Costa likes to say that “books are power-

munity involvement, social interaction and

ful objects.” Indeed. And we would add: So

intellectual innovation. As it turns out, that’s

are bookstore owners.

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★ T I AWA NA BU L L O C K ★

The Parent Mentor If you’re a young, poor woman who’s just had a baby or a homeless mom hopping from friend’s couch to friend’s couch, Tiawana Bullock is going to be your best friend, your big sister or your nagging aunt — depending on whichever personality makes you do what’s right for yourself and your family. “People have a heartfelt desire to do something good,” says Bullock, who works for the Family Service Agency of Marin. “The hard part is to pull that out of them.” Bullock caretakes up to 10 families as part of the Southern Marin Services program, which helps low-income mothers navigate the labyrinth of medicine, childcare and, hopefully, education to escape the cycle of poverty. Now 40, she knows of what she speaks. “I really struggled as a young lady,” she says, thinking of her days raising three kids alone. But today, living in a Marin City townhome and married to a minister, she says her focus is improving the lives of those around her. Her biggest priority: “More affordable housing.”

★ JOE L FAY ★

The Cop Doc Joel Fay is armed and educated. A cop for 33 years, the last 22 with the San Rafael Police Department, Fay is one of about 20 “cop docs” in the country. He earned his doctorate in psychology in 1999, working nights and going to school days part time for nine years. “The motivation came out of what I encountered on the street,” says Fay. “I kept asking myself, ‘How can I do this better?’” As the head of the police department’s Mental Health Liaison Program, Fay helps fellow officers cope with mentally ill people who run afoul of the law. Many of them are homeless. “We’re trying to get people help, trying to solve the problem,” he says.

doesn’t have the tools to fix it.” Fay is also the founder of the West Coast Post-Trauma Retreat, which he calls “my love.” The weeklong West Marin program, one of only two in the country, treats cops, firefighters and other emergency personnel for the stress that comes with their jobs.

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PHOTOS: TIM PORTER

“Homelessness is a law enforcement problem, but law enforcement

[PEOPLE]

★ JA R E D H U F F M A N ★

The Green Politician Jared Huffman arrived in Sacramento on Dec. 4, 2006, as a freshman legislator with a long to-do list and not much time to do it in. Huffman is all but guaranteed three two-year terms (the maximum) representing the heavily Democratic Sixth Assembly District (Marin and southern Sonoma) and he’ll need it all to fulfill the reason he pushed the pause button on his career as a prominent environmental and public interest attorney: to make California a greener place to live. “This is not about resume-building for me,” says Huffman. “I’m in Sacramento to do something, not to just be something.” Huffman has his name on a lengthy roster of active environPHOTO: TIM PORTER

mental and consumer legislation, including bills that reward alternative energy generation and lower insurance costs for motorists who drive less. “Marin,” says Huffman, “needs to come to terms with how to keep things that make this place special, while embracing change to some broader issues that we can’t ignore — transportation, gentrification and workforce housing.”

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[PEOPLE]

★ M I A MON ROE ★

★ JONA S HON IC K ★

The Tree Keeper

The Hoops Coach

Mia Monroe likes to call herself a “working ranger,” a self-de-

Jonas Honick is a big man, as a basketball coach should be.

scription that is as diminutive as her size. Monroe is the site super-

He taught the game of tall men in short pants to growing boys

visor for Muir Woods, where she’s worked for 27 years, and even

for 30 years, the last 27 at Branson School in Ross. Honick retired

though she still leads tourists on tours and routinely stoops to re-

from coaching this year (he continues to teach history), leaving a

trieve litter as she strolls amid the forest, her mission is as lofty as the

legacy of success capped by three state championships in the last

towering trees she cares for.

three years.

“I want to get people out in the natural world and to inspire them

As a young man on the Harvard University team, Honick was a

to take care of it,” she says. “For many people, Muir Woods is their

talented yet combustible player (his wife once called him “scrappy”).

first true natural experience — ‘this is what fresh air is supposed to

Later, as a coach, he channeled that passion into his boys and his

smell like!’ For others, it’s good to just walk among the trees. And, for

own personal growth. “You learn a lot about yourself when you coach,” says Honick,

Although Muir Woods draws about 1 million visitors a year from

“a lot about human nature and a lot about other people. I got a lot

all over the world, Monroe sees the 550-acre redwood canyon as a

better at coaching over time, but I really got a lot better at manag-

resource that’s quintessentially Marin. “I really feel Muir Woods is a

ing people.”

county park,” she says. “We may be a national treasure, but this is really Marin’s park.”

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

That’s a life lesson that will far outlast a good pair of hands and a decent outside jump shot.

PHOTOS: TIM PORTER

others, it’s the awe. Everyone who leaves here feels better.”

★ DON NA BJOR N ★

PHOTOS: TIM PORTER

The Civic Activist

★ MON IC A J I M E N E Z ★

The College Prepper

When Donna Bjorn was raising her daughters in San Anselmo,

Monica Jimenez arrived in Marin from El Salvador when she

she was a typical working mom—busy, busy, busy. “I really had no

was 9, the third of three children being raised by a single mother

time to do anything for the community,” she says. “I knew nothing

who has two core beliefs: Education is important and hard work will

about what was going on in the county.”

take you a long way.

Today, nest empty and retired from her job as a marketing VP

While her mom worked as housekeeper to support her family,

for Blue Shield, Bjorn knows everything about the nit and grit of lo-

Jimenez made it through Bahia Vista Elementary, Davidson Middle

cal government. On the board of directors for the Marin League of

and Marin Catholic High and, finally, Moraga University. Today, at 23,

Women Voters, and for four years its president, Bjorn combines a

Jimenez manages the Summer Application Institute, a Marin Education

salt-of-the-earth practicality with a passion for public policy. Her

Fund program that prepares financially disadvantaged high school stu-

goal: persuade the electorate to give a hoot about issues as complex

dents for college with SAT preparation, writing workshops, college

as they are important.

tours and connection to an adult mentor. About 50 students partici-

At the top of Bjorn’s list is changes at Marin General Hospital.

pate. Last year, all of them moved on to college or trade school.

“It’s the place where the needy people of this county get health care.”

“I was part of the program in 2001,” says Jimenez. “I saw the help

Also on her radar: the education gap between Marin’s affluent and

they gave me and wanted to do that for someone. Some parents don’t

poor, campaign reform and workforce housing (“most of the people

really stress education as much as Mom did. I want them and their

who work in the county can’t afford to live here”).

children to hear that college is an option.”

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

[ FA M I LY ]

All in the Family MARIN COUNTY, “A GREAT PLACE FOR FAMILIES” — IT’S NOT JUST A REAL ESTATE TAGLINE. Just ask Gil Dowd senior, seated

front and center, who recently celebrated his birthday surrounded by his clan. Their venue of choice for casual-get-togethers is Ricky’s Place in Novato, where, his daughter Kristen says, “the kids can swim, while the adults can have a cocktail and eat in peace.” Gil, a retired physician and his wife, Molly, née Molly Duggan, a graduate of Dominican College in San Rafael, live in Bel Marin Keys near their daughter Kristen Addicks, her husband Rick, a firefighter in Ross, and their two kids, Casey and Mairead, both Novato Charter School students. Just down the street lives Gil III, an extreme athlete who keeps in shape tracking down his three kids, Rachael, who attends Rancho Essentialist Elementary School; Annalise, a Hill Middle

that of husband John Belzer, a Mill Valley native who is now an orthopedic surgeon. Their daughter Annika attends Redwood High next fall, son Conor is at Kent Middle School and youngest son Julian heads to Basich in the fall. Also in attendance were Gil’s nephew Luke Chambers, who grew up in San Rafael and met his wife Erica while working in Ecuador. Paul Belzer and wife Tiffany joined the group from San Mateo with kids Jack, 8, and Ava, 5. Not pictured are Carla Addicks and her husband Gary Jones, a former commodore of the Sausalito Yacht Club, who now live in Napa.

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

School student; and son Bryce, a sophomore at Novato High. Sister Kathleen lives in Kent Woodlands and her schedule as a midwife complements

Staying active I N T H I S R E C R E AT I O N - L OV I N G N E C K O F T H E WO O D S the instruc-

tion starts early. Whether it’s dribbling a soccer ball, trimming a jib or finessing a kick-turn that’s on the agenda, Marin’s kids have access to some of the best coaches around. Here are just a few inspirational people and organizations that have provided memories and skills to last a lifetime.

BASEBALL ★ As Hall of Famer Bob Lemon once said, “Baseball was made for kids, and grown-ups only screw it up.” We think what he meant in spirit was that youth baseball is as good as it gets. The lifelong friendships, bases stolen, pant-knees soiled and memories of playing on a Little League team are the stuff dreams are made of. Thanks to the Little League organization (and many hours donated by parent volunteers), boys and girls of Marin from

SOCCER ★ Ever since captaining the first western U.S.

Sausalito to Point Reyes to Novato get to revel in the glory of the game. To find

youth soccer team to win a national championship, Dave

a Marin team visit westmarinlittleleague.org, hometeamsonline.com, rossval-

Fromer has shared his passion for youth soccer, mentor-

leylittleleague.org, millvalleyll.org, tiburonll.org or eteamz.com

ing over 60,000 kids to perfect the angle of their kick. Throughout 48 years of coaching Fromer has influenced countless future pro athletes as well as his own children, Reed and Rachel, both currently soccer coaches to their own children. This year marks the 27th year of Dave Fromer’s summertime Marin Soccer Camps.

SWIMMING ★ The Marin Swim League, with 10 teams, has been around for decades, training and encouraging waterbabies ages 5 to 18 to hone their aquatic skills. More serious than most recreational leagues, MSL has fostered many competitive swimmers, including Ben WildmanTobriner, the current American world record holder in the 50 freestyle. Many go on to do competitive collegiate swimming, and most everyone has a great time and learns the lifelong skills of swimming and what it takes to be part of a team. marinswimleague.org

RECREATIONAL CENTERS THROUGHOUT MARIN Belvedere-Tiburon Recreation, 415.435.4355, btrecreation.org ★ Community Resource Center of West Marin, 415.663.8361, west-marin.com/area/wmw.vol.htm ★ Corte Madera Parks & Recreation, 415.927.5072, ci.corte-madera. ca.us/recreation_dept/index.html ★ Fairfax Parks and Recreation Commission (PARC), 415.453.1584, town-of-fairfax.org ★ Homestead Valley Community Association, 415.388.0137, homesteadvalley.org ★ Larkspur Recreation Department, 415.927.6746, ci.larkspur.ca.us ★ Marinwood PHOTOS: TIM PORTER

Community Services District, 415.479.0775, marinwood.org ★ Mill Valley Community Center, 415.383.1370, millvalleycenter.org ★ City of Novato Parks, Recreation & Community Services, 415.899.8200 cityofnovato.org ★ Pickleweed Park Commmunity Center & Library, 415.485.3077 Ross Recreation Department, 415.453.6020, rossrecreation.org ★ San Anselmo Parks & Recreation Department, 415.258.4640, townofsananselmo. org ★ San Rafael Recreation, 415.485.3333, cityofsanrafael.org ★ Sausalito Parks & Recreation, 415.289.4152, ci.sausalito.ca.us ★ Stinson Beach Community Center, 415.868.1444, stinsonbeachcommunitycenter.org ★ Strawberry Recreation District, 415.383.6494, strawberry.marin.org

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

Cultured Kids I T WA S N O S U R P R I S E TO E D U CATO R S

or parents when a study commissioned by the William and Flora Hewlett and the Ford foundations found that a vast majority of California K-12 schools fell short of state goals established in 2001 for teaching the arts in four areas: visual arts, music, dance and theater. Luckily, in Marin we have outstanding supplementary programs–if you know where to look.

★ VISUAL ARTS ★ Ten years ago Lisa Jones opened the doors of her Masterworks Children’s Art Studio (masterworkskidsart.com), geared to kids with a strong desire to learn fine arts. Her teaching combines a focus on the masters throughout history, from the prehistoric Venus of Willendorf on up to modern times, with the concrete fundamentals of drawing, painting, perspective and color theory. Other programs of note: Busy Little Hands in Larkspur Landing, a new studio for ages 2 to 11, was recently nominated for Nickelodeon’s 2008 Parents’ Picks Awards. And Doodlebug in San Anselmo, a perennial favorite for birthday parties, also offers serious art classes (doodlebugmarin.com).

★ DANCE ★ Marin Ballet (marinballet.org) opened its doors in 1963 at the home of founder and internationally acclaimed dancer Leona Norman. These days company alumna Cynthia Lucas is at the helm, and the school serves about 450 kids all year with more than 100 classes per week. Spring and sum-

and its rendition of Nutcracker is an annual favorite at the Marin Center. For other dance disciplines and styles, Roco Dance studio (rocodance.com) and Happy Feet Dance

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

mer performances are held at its own theater,

[ FA M I LY ]

School, both in Mill Valley, have loyal fol-

“Mike,” in San Rafael. For piano lessons at

lowings, as well as alumni who have become

home, look to Claudia Newberry (claudia-

professional dancers.

newberrry.com); for guitar try Tiburon’s Eric Schoenberg at (OM28.com), or consult lo-

★ MUSIC ★

cal music stores Magic Flute (themagic-

While not every student in Marin can be in

flute.net) and Amazing Grace Music

San Domenico’s award-winning Virtuoso

(amazinggracemusicmarin.com) for recom-

Program, they do have access to the man be-

mended teachers.

hind the music, composer George Thomas. Thomas is also maestro for the Marin

★ THEATER ★

Symphony Youth Orchestra (marinsym-

Since a full-time drama department is not

phony.org), open by audition to all budding

usually part of an academic budget, many of

classical musicians. MSYO starts with the

our schools are fortunate enough to be able

Crescendo program for tots and branches out

to “outsource” the drama teaching: groups

into vocals with Marin Chorus, known for its

like Marin Shakespeare (marinshake-

holiday performances as well as a youth or-

speare.org) and Marin Theatre Company

chestra. Kids following a different musical

(marintheatre.org) offer after-school theater

calling are welcome at the hip-hop recording

programs countywide, as well as summer

studio The Myc (themyc.com), pronounced

programs to continue the magic.

Family Quick Picks

Masterworks Children’s Art Studio in Larkspur

★ MARIN FAMILY CAR ★ It could well be a toss-up between the new Toyota Highlander, Acura MDX and Honda Odessy minivan — but in a county known for outdoorsy livin’, the Volkswagen Eurovan Weekender has to take the prize for best all-around family car. The pop top that opens to a full-size bed provides an easy anytime, anywhere nap spot, and the under-seat refrigerator keeps all types of beverages cool. Ready to buy? Check ebay.com or Craigslist, because after the last shipment of the 2003 model rolled in, Sonnen Motorcars has not been able to keep any in stock. ★ FAMILY-FRIENDLY

RESTAURANT ★ San Anselmo’s new Playdate Café. The word about this place is, what took so long! While the $8.95 (per kid) admission fee to the play area can add up, moms, dads, nannies and grannies seem to be chalk-

PHOTOS: TIM PORTER

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

ing up the extra expense as the price of sanity. ★ KID-

FRIENDLY MALL ★ The Village at Corte Madera. A conveniently shaded, safe play area and lots of kid-focused retailers and kid-specific entertainment on the roster makes this Marin’s top retail tot spot.

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

[OUTDOORS]

★ ST I NSON BE ACH ★

This three-mile-long sandbar is a popular spot for dog owners, who bring their canines to the northern tip of the sandy stretch known as Dog Beach. After a long day of playing fetch, take the pooch to one of the town’s dog-friendly cafes.

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

Take the dog along

★ HILL 88 LOOP ★

A round-trip hike This 5.1-mile round trip starts at the Coastal Trail trailhead at the north end of the Rodeo Beach parking lot. You’ll hike up the fairly steep fire road, staying to your right; where the trail intersects with Old Bunker Road, veer to the left and look for the continuation of the trail on the right, in the middle of a small grove of cypress trees. The ascent is steep, with a rocky staircase. Veer right at the top and continue on the paved road to your left. Just before the summit, go right onto the Wolf Ridge Trail, which continues across the backside of Hill 88, and right again on Miwok Fire Road. Head down to the floor of Gerbode Valley, and keep to the right. Miwok eventually hits Bunker Road. Cross the road, and walk along Rodeo Lagoon back to the parking lot.

★ A L A M E R E FA L L S ★

A destination hike Get an early start on the hike to this 40-foot waterfall that flows onto the beach. To get to the base of Alamere hike to Wildcat Campground, and then walk about a mile south on the beach at low tide. It’s important to note when low tide is, as hikers can get stuck on the beach during high tide.

★ K I R B Y C OV E , M A R I N H E A DL A N D S ★ ★ T E N N E S S E E VA L L E Y T O T E N N E S S E E B E A C H ★

The top camping spot

Take a flat hike

One of the hardest-to-reserve weekend camping spots, due to

Bring the family and have a picnic on the beach. The

the stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge, private beach

Tennessee Valley Trail, which is mostly level, begins at the

and the easy access, the site features simple facilities: grill,

parking area and extends 1.7 miles to Tennessee Beach. For

fire rings, picnic tables and bathrooms. Kids can explore the

more information contact the Marin Headlands Visitor Center

abandoned Battery Kirby, a World War II defense structure.

at 415.331.1540.

But don’t forget the earplugs, as the foghorns can be loud. Only one weekend reservation per group per season is al-

★ B OL I N A S R I D G E T R A I L ★

Hike to a view Stunning views of Tomales Bay are your reward for climbPHOTO: TIM PORTER

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

ing the 700 feet in 2.5 miles. The scene includes the spec-

lowed. Visit nps.org or call 800.365.2267.

★ JC C , S A N R A FA E L ★

Swim laps

tacular ocean below, Kent Lake and wooded slopes. Running

The year-round heated aquatic options at this San Rafael

parallel to Shoreline Highway, the trail starts three miles past

center include an eight-lane outdoor pool, a children’s out-

the entrance to Samuel P. Taylor Park and ends at Ridgecrest

door wading pool, a coed spa and a four-lane indoor pool.

Boulevard on Mount Tamalpais.

415.444.8000; 200 N. San Pedro Rd., San Rafael.

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

[OUTDOORS]

★ S T. H I L A R Y ’ S O P E N S PA C E ★

Watch the moon rise Named after the church adjacent to the property. The hilltop provides sweeping views of San Francisco, the Golden Gate Bridge, the East Bay and, of course, the moon. Exit Highway 101 at Tiburon Boulevard, turn left on Lyford Drive, turn right onto Heathcliff and park. Enter the open space path; walk to the top of the hill.

★ LIMANTOUR BEACH ★

A beach to walk on As you stroll this long stretch of sand between Drakes Bay and an estuary, you’ll likely see seals bobbing offshore, shorebirds feeding in the wetlands in the fall, ducks in winter and whales guiding their calves in the spring.

★ H E A R T ’ S DE S I R E B E A C H ★

A beach for swimming Part of Tomales Bay State Park, this sheltered cove is the perfect choice for families with small children, as the ocean water tends to be warmer and calmer than in other areas.

★ BOLINAS BEACH ★

A beach to surf Surfers flock to this spot at the southern end of the Point Reyes National Seashore, as it’s generally protected from the fierce winds and huge swells that make other areas tough for beginners.

★ R E I ( C O R T E M A DE R A ) ★

A place to buy gear Since 2001, the staff here has been helping Marin residents rent camping equipment, choose the right mountain bike and get all the necessary gear for that next trip to the Tahoe slopes. 415.927.1938, 213 Corte Madera Town Center

Learn how to sail The Youth Sailing program at the San Francisco Yacht Club includes learn-tosail classes, high school racing, all-age activities and private lessons. In spring, summer and fall, young sailors develop their skills in small prams, like the Optimist and JY Trainer or J/24 keelboats, 420s and Lasers. 415.435.9133

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

POOL PHOTO: TIM PORTER

★ S A N F R A N C I S C O YA C H T C LU B ★

[ T R AV E L ]

★ T H E VA L L E Y OF T H E MOON ★

BOOK PASSAGE PHOTO: TIM PORTER; WINE COUNTRY: M.J. WICKHAM

POOL PHOTO: TIM PORTER

Wine Country Day Trip For a change of pace from the popular

fering tasting abound, including favorites

Napa, head to Sonoma for wine tasting,

Arrowood, Blackstone, Landmark, Ledson

hiking and lunch. Less than an hour’s drive

and Chateau St. Jean. Pace yourself and plan

from most of Marin County, Cornerstone

for a late lunch on the patio at Kenwood

Gardens is a good place to start: you can

Restaurant and Bar, where the views of the

browse through creatively quirky shops like

garden, vineyards and surrounding area are

Artefact Design and Salvage. Light break-

a visual enhancement to any meal.

fast, gourmet coffee, tea and pastries are

After lunch, zip over to Glen Ellen and

available at the Blue Tree Cafe. From there,

Jack London State Park, where you can visit

head to Highway 12 in the heart of one of

the museum and take a short walk to the

California’s most scenic and treasured lo-

famous London dwelling Wolf House before

cales, the Valley of the Moon. Wineries of-

driving back to Marin.

RESOURCES ★ Best place to find travel books: Book Passage, 51 Tamal Vista Blvd., Corte Madera ★ Best place to buy luggage: San Rafael Luggage Center, Fourth Street ★ Best ride to the airport (S.F. and Oakland): Marin Airporter, Strawberry Limo, Marin Shuttle

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

★ T I BU RON/A NGE L I S L A N D ★

★ HO T E L V I TA L E ★

Day-tripping in Marin

Overnighting in S.F.

Head to Tiburon to catch the Angel Island ferry; it’s a five-minute ride

Pack your overnight bag and hop one of Marin’s ferries to the Ferry

to Angel Island, where you can walk, run or bike the circumference

Terminal in San Francisco. Walk across the street, check into the

(five miles). Take the ferry back to Tiburon and enjoy a well-earned

Hotel Vitale and indulge in a spa treatment before dinner. In addi-

lunch on the deck of Sam’s or Guaymas. Matinees at the movie the-

tion to Americano—a happening restaurant and bar on the premis-

ater in Tiburon start at 4 p.m. and typically feature first-run films.

es—you can walk to numerous hot restaurants including Boulevard,

After the movie enjoy dinner at Servino, Three Degrees, Rooney’s or

the Slanted Door, Hog Island Oyster, Chaya and the latest Pat Kuleto

the Cottage Eatery.

creations, Waterbar and Epic Roasthouse.

FROM LEFT : Nick’s Cove on Tomales Bay; Post Ranch in Big Sur; Little River Inn in Mendocino

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

NICK’S COVE PHOTO: VAL ATKINSON / POST RANCH INN PHOTO: THOMAS LOOF

[ T R AV E L ]

[FOOD AND DRINK] ★ T H E B A R AT BUC K E Y E ROA DHOU S E ★

25,000 Martinis… Whether you just turned 21 or 101, the Buckeye Roadhouse in Mill Valley is Marin’s perennial celebration venue. At its heart is a 25-foot mahogany bar topped with old-fashioned formica, a part of the original 1937 roadhouse built by the Brummer/Bush family. While it’s impossible to know just how many frosty ales have slid down this hallowed slab, we do know that last year 3,116 mojitos, 2,875 metropolitans and about 25,000 martinis crossed over from bartender to happy customer.

TOP TO BOTTOM: Acqua Hotel in Mill Valley; Sea Ranch Lodge on Sonoma

Coast; Cavallo Point in Sausalito at Fort Baker

On the coast MENDOCINO ★ Little River Inn; littleriverinn.com BIG SUR ★ Post Ranch Inn; postranchinn.com

SONOMA ★ Sea Ranch Lodge searanchlodge.com MARIN ★ Nick’s Cove nickscove.com

Local secret

point.com; The Lodge at Tiburon, thelodgeattiburon.com

BUCKEYE PHOTO: TIM PORTER

NICK S COVE PHOTO: VAL ATKINSON / POST RANCH INN PHOTO: THOMAS LOOF

CHOICE HOTELS TO PUT UP FRIENDS AND FAMILY ★ Acqua, jdvhotels.com; Cavallo Point, cavallo-

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

[FOOD AND DRINK]

Nick’s Cove

★ L A R K T H E AT E R ★

beef Wellington and bangers and mash. Best

Date night

of all, the adjoining pub comes complete with

Next time you’re planning a date, consid-

dartboard and fine ales, draft beers, stouts and

er a movie and a glass of wine…at locally

pilsners plus a whole range of wines, sherries

owned Lark Theater. Not only are the films

and ports from around the world.

meticulously selected; the concession stand is unique, with organic popcorn, organic turkey

★ S A N D D OL L A R R E S TA U R A N T ★

hot dogs, organic coffees and teas, and wine

Dinner under the stars

and beer service. larktheater.net

Weather permitting, this super stargazing res-

★ L A R K S P U R L A N DI N G ★

taurant in Stinson Beach has been serving up

Single and looking

chowder, fish dishes and burgers with untaint-

Besides the iron-pumping 24 Hour Fitness,

cades. The generous patio was added to the

ed views-to-the-heavens for the past few de-

there are many ways to meet Mr. or Ms. Right

★ N I C K’ S C OV E ★

original 1921 building (made of barges float-

at this central Marin locale. Feeling like some

Destination dinner

ed from Tiburon) sometime in the ’70s. For

house-made brew? Head to Marin Brewing

the best chance of a clear warm night, go in the fall. stinsonbeachrestaurant.com

Co. Craving Asian cuisine? Low-key, family-

You’ve read about the latest Pat Kuleto/Mark

run Tha Siam and Sushi Ko are both great

Franz collaboration—make the time to check

stops, or indulge at E&O Trading Company.

it out for yourselves. While spending the night

★ DI P S E A C A F E ★

Noonan’s is famous for its singles scene, and

in one of the 12 Nick’s Cove cabins is the best

Tam Cellars holds weekly wine tastings.

way to get the full effect, an early dinner or

Ultimate breakfast

lunch will be worth every minute and mile of

If you’re not going to run the trail of the same

★ SUSHI RAN ★

the journey. Located on Tomales Bay, Nick’s

name, going to breakfast at the Dipsea in Mill

Dinner past nine

Cove is approximately 20 minutes from Point

Valley is a close second for an ultimate a.m.

Reyes Station. Designated drivers required.

“Marin experience.” The menu includes om-

nickscove.com

elets, creative egg dishes served with home-

It’s not New York City restaurant hours, but

made biscuits, pancakes and more. Dress code

the fact that Sausalito gem Sushi Ran is open until 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday and

★ THE TEAPOD ★

varies from just-rolled-out-of-bed to business

10:30 p.m. on Sundays is yet another rea-

Tea-totaling

attire. Historical photos further enliven the

son—in addition to the Michelin star rating— locals love the place. sushiran.com

Sushi Ran

bright sunny space. dipseacafe.com

Looking to meet up with a friend(s) or surf the Internet in peace while sipping a health-

★ C A F E G R AT I T U DE ★

ful cup of organic tea? Check out Teapod on

Treading lightly

San Anselmo Avenue for high-quality teas paired with quick service. teapod.biz

We’re lucky in Marin: so many restaurants with such fresh locally produced organic fare.

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

★ PELICAN INN ★

Cafe Gratitude in San Rafael takes that a step

Romance in the rain

further with dishes like vegan lasagna, samo-

If the forecast calls for rain, book a table (and

not-so-subtle mental boosters that tag each

a room if it’s in the budget) at this charming

menu listing—“elated,” “grateful,” “cheerful,”

Anglophilic inn in Muir Beach. Menu includes

“divine”—seem to work their magic as well.

items like prime rib and Yorkshire pudding,

cafegratitude.com

sas and live sun burgers, among others. The

[ FA S H I O N ]

★ BE T T INA ★

That little black dress Owner Doretta Boehm, who’s been in the fashion business more than 18 years,

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

stocks a perfectly edited collection of dresses that aren’t found in every shop on every corner. In fact, Boehm frequently travels to Thailand to score designs by up-and-coming Asian designers. The shop’s named after her sister Bettina, who runs the Sausalito location. 501 Caledonia St., Sausalito and 415.563.8002, 3615 Sacramento St., SF

MARIN

AUGUST 2008

[ FA S H I O N ] ★ TA R G E T ★

Shades that don’t break the bank Online reviewers call the Novato Target the best they’ve been to, and for good reason: the well-stocked sunglasses section has styles for under $20 that could easily be mistaken for expensive designer shades. (Novato) 415.892.3313, 200 Vintage Way

★ L E A DE S I G N S ★

Find a custom wedding dress You may have seen Lea Ditson’s frocks at the symphony or opera, but her mother-of-thebride and wedding dress designs have been winning over locals who want custom madeto-order gowns. Ditson, who has been in the

scarves, Coach handbags and Missoni tops,

★ GENE HILLER ★

business for over 20 years, has clients first

but the real draw is the collection of design-

make a “look appointment,” wherein the bride

er jeans—Frankie B, Blue Cult, Diesel and

Where to buy a suit

tries on different styles of dresses to see what

Rock and Republic, at sometimes less than

Gene Hiller’s namesake store has been around

suits her body the best, looks at swatches of

one fourth the original price. (Mill Valley)

for more than 50 years, but men still can’t get

fabric the designer imports from Italy and

415.388.4682, 19 E. Blithedale Ave.

enough of the elegant garb from stylish names

France, and discusses what type of wedding—

like Brioni, Canali and Zegna and the con-

formal or casual, outdoors or in—the event

★ NUMBER 5 ★

cierge-like service—the staff has been known

will be. Once the bride and Ditson have col-

Where to get a handbag

to make hotel and restaurant reservations

laboratively come up with a design for the

and arrange limousine services for clients.

dress, many more appointments will be need-

Maureen Vogel’s Ross boutique has been open

ed in order to nip and tuck the material until

less than two years, but she’s already getting

the fit is just right. “A lot girls go out looking

calls from customers across the United States

★ PR O O F L A B ★

for a dress and try on things that don’t fit, or

in search of limited-production purses from

the color doesn’t work, or they like the front

obscure designers. Vogel doesn’t carry items

Where to find beach sandals

of one and the back of another,” says Ditson.

that are stocked in department stores and in

Owners Will Hutchinson and Nate McCarthy,

With a custom wedding dress, imagination

fact, there’s a chance you’ve never heard of

surfers themselves, have stocked some of the

and the wallet are the only limitations. Gowns

many of her brands such as Anya Hindmarch,

best styles by brands like Reef, Havaianas and

run from $1,500 to $5,000. (San Anselmo)

Piatonna or Barbara Bui.

Ocean Minded. (Mill Valley) 415.380.8900,

415.461.4804, 324 Sir Francis Drake Blvd.

But that’s what makes Number 5 so

(Sausalito) 415.332.3636, 729 Bridgeway

254 Shoreline Hwy.

special. The Corte Madera resident has

★ JAY L I N A’ S ★

scoured Europe for under-the-radar finds,

★ GALA 484 ★

Consignment, anyone?

which means sometimes she’s the only bou-

Where to find a pair of boots

On any given day this fashionista’s paradise

or that specific bag. (Ross) 415.925.9555,

For almost two years, owner Gala Hart’s three

might feature Manolo Blahnik mules, Pucci

5 Ross Common

namesake boutiques have been giving Marin

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AUGUST 2008

tique in America to carry a particular brand

footwear fiends a fashionable leg up, but for one of the best boot selections in town, try her Gala 484 location, which features Frye, Dolce Vita and Kristen Lee. (Larkspur) 415.924.3300, 484 Magnolia Ave.

★ ITEM SHOES AND ACCESSORIES ★

Where to find a pair of heels Styles by the likes of Luciano Padovan, Tory Burch, Bettye Muller and Sigerson Morrison fill the shelves of owner Joy Goldberg’s Larkspur boutique. Insiders will tell you to stop by on select dates in January and August, when there’s a big sale on almost everything in the store. (Larkspur) 415.925.0109, 1102 Magnolia Ave.

Item in Larkspur

★ T ON Y’S S HOE R E PA I R ★

He brings shoes back to life His name isn’t Tony, but owner Misak Pirinjian, who took over the shop from his father in 1986, is still one of the most recognizable characters in Mill Valley. His customers, who drive in from all over the Bay Area to get their shoes fixed, swear by the Terra Linda resident’s work. He is so good at it and his prices so low, one Yelp reviewer reports that her friend in Las Vegas mails her shoes here to be repaired. (Mill

PHOTOS: TIM PORTER

Valley) 415.388.5935, 38 Corte Madera Ave.

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[HOME & GARDEN]

★ MICH E L L E K AU FM A NN DE SIGNS ★

Green to go: sustainable by design From the original Glidehouse to the subsequent Sunset Breezehouse,

of Science and Technology—the only other building honored this way

Sidebreeze, mkLotus, mkLoft and mkSolaire models, the prefabricated

since Frank Lloyd Wright erected a Usonian home on the same site

homes of architect and Novato resident Michelle Kaufmann are modu-

more than 50 years ago.

lar, energy-efficient, built to code, and packed with such ultracool green

Kaufmann, a former associate of celebrated Los Angeles architect

features as bamboo floors, recycled concrete countertops, glass tile, and

Frank O. Gehry, never planned to pioneer green prefab homes, pur-

low-VOC paints.

chase a factory in Seattle to build them, open an office in Oakland

Considered real estate once they’re installed, mkd-homes can be

to sell them, write a book (Prefab Green, HarperCollins, 2007) about

found in the most chic communities along the West Coast. “Green town-

them, or design eco-friendly home products (lighting, a bathroom

home communities” are slated to appear in San Leandro, Denver and Las

vanity, a kitchen island) via mkStudios, but plenty of environmental-

Vegas; resort projects, spiritual retreats and spas are also in the pipeline.

ists and home owners are glad she did. Michelle Kaufmann Designs

Next May, a fully functioning three-story mkSolaire with a garage,

offices are located at 580 Second St., Ste. 245, Oakland; 510.271.8015;

living roof and smart features will be installed at Chicago’s Museum

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AUGUST 2008

mkd-arc.com

designers rely on him. 274 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; 415.927.2362

★ NOW E L L’ S A N T IQU E L IG H T I NG ★ Nowell’s, a favorite with designers and contractors since 1954, is hidden in plain view in the industrial section of Sausalito. Whether you want a vintage streetlight from San Francisco or an antique chandelier from a mansion of a European capital or (in the case of one Tiburon homeowner) supposedly decommissioned from the Vatican, there’s a good chance you’ll find it here. New owner Alex Arce continues the tradition and still offers rewiring, repair and custom design.

Paperwhite in San Rafael

491 Gate 5 Rd., Sausalito; 415.332.4933; nowellslighting.com

Make your bed and lounge in it ★ BABY & KIDS COMPANY ★

and Las Vegas. 4324 Redwood Hwy., Ste. 200, San Rafael; 415.491.4488

Designer favorites

With its child-friendly atmosphere, de-

★ N A N AWA L L S Y S T E M S ★

signer linens (Serena & Lily, Bella Notte,

★ M A R T I N KO B U S ★

NanaWall Systems, based in Mill Valley, intro-

Shabby Chic), and charming furnishings

For almost 20 years, designers like Peter

duced the exterior folding glass door system

for newborns to toddlers in a nice arc of

Marino, Suzanne Tucker, Mario Buatta and

from Europe to the United States more than

prices, Baby and Kids Company is a one-

Babey Moulton Jue & Booth and the show-

20 years ago, and now its gorgeous view-en-

stop shop for tots. “Go to your room!” will

rooms of Pierre Deux and Ralph Lauren have

compassing doors, which open entirely with-

never quite have the same ring again. 12

counted on Martin Kobus to whip up (and

in seconds, are found in many of Marin’s top

Miller Ave., Mill Valley; 415.389.1312;

often motorize) wonderful window treat-

homes. They’re available in different finishes,

babyandkidscompany.com

ments, from luxe draperies to Roman shades

woods and glass and in curved styles. 707

and natural wovens, for their clients scat-

Redwood Hwy., Mill Valley; 415.383.3148;

★ PA P E R W H I T E ★

tered across the United States. They know

nanawall.com

When Jan Dutton designs her luxurious col-

the finished product, overseen personally

lections for the bedroom, she thinks like a

from concept to installation, does not disap-

fashion designer and pins her creations on a

point. 4000 Bridgeway, Ste. 307, Sausalito;

mannequin, not a bed. When she’s finished,

415.331.3755

eight opulently dressed beds and accesso-

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

Now you see it— now you don’t

The well-dressed space ★ LU N A R I A ★ For expressive, flirty modern lighting, Lunaria

ries, made from the finest Indian silks and

★ S T OIC H DE S IG N S ★

gets our vote. More than 100 fixtures, from

Italian damasks, sateen and cotton, take cen-

Matt Stoich and his dedicated team have

semirecessed lights and chandeliers to floor

ter stage in her San Rafael showroom and fac-

turned a little storefront in Larkspur into a

and table lamps, illuminate the showroom

tory, where savvy shoppers take advantage of

bustling workshop that consistently turns out

floor. Choose from stylish Italian lines like

customizable options, complimentary design

some of the finest upholstery in Marin. Close

Terzani, Baga, Leucos and Melograno Blu

service and quarterly sales. She has two oth-

attention to detail, no shortcuts and a classic

or American lines such as Stonegate, Currey

er showrooms in design centers in High Point

approach to the craft are among the reasons

and LBL to give your space a splash of glam-

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[HOME & GARDEN]

orous light. 1108 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; 415.461.0588; lunaria.us

★ C OL LU R E S T U DIO 110 6 ★ When Susan Wright opened Collure Studio 1106 along Larkspur’s Magnolia Avenue early this year, she brought to Marin a world of designer fabrics, trims and wallpapers usually available only through exclusive design centers. Now, anyone can browse the lines of Donghia, Osborn & Little, Brunshwig & Fils, Bergamo, Fortuny, Manuel Canovas and Missoni Home, among others, without engaging a designer, although three staff designers are happy to help and can arrange for fabrication of any soft furnishing or upholstery. 1106 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; 415.461.6155; collure.com

★ L A S E DE B E L L A ★ If it’s toile you crave, visit La Sede Bella in San Anselmo for a wonderful selection. 535 San Anselmo Ave., San Anselmo; 415.453.8200

Dwelling details

Renato Gouveia and Marcelo Camillo

★ BLU E S L I DE A R T T I L E S ★ For great tile style, we like Blue Slide.

and drapery hardware. 415.332.6719;

Handcrafted in Point Reyes by artisan Gordon

susangoldstick.com

Bryan in the traditional arts-and-crafts manner,

Black’s Farmwood was green before green was red-hot. More than a decade ago,

Green woods

images of farm animals, birds, fish, blossoms

Michael Black sold the wood from his family’s blown-down 150-year-old Ohio tobac-

and leaves, come in a choice of more than 90

★ A R BOR IC A ★

co barn to a Novato homeowner, essentially

rich, luscious colors. Plain subway and field

Evan Shively is a modern-day sawyer, with a

launching a nationwide business offering

tiles are also available and custom orders are

discerning eye for the most wonderful woods

high-quality antique reclaimed wood for

taken. blueslidearttile.com

like black acacia, bay laurel, Monterey cy-

wide-plank flooring, siding, timbers and

press and California walnut, all of which he

more. 415.499.8300; blacksfarmwood.com;

★ S U S A N G OL D S T IC K I NC. ★

salvages from fallen trees in urban forests.

showroom open by appointment.

Susan Goldstick’s whimsical knobs and pulls,

He stores his finds in a massive Marshall

designed in Sausalito from a resin-like mate-

showroom and collaborates with design pro-

rial, are like jewelry for your cabinets and

fessionals to select the perfect piece for a

drawers. Colorful and contemporary, these

project, whether it’s for a home’s structure,

★ F OL IO 9 4 9 ★

functional embellishments can be mixed

accent pieces or furniture. By appointment;

From custom save-the-date cards to invita-

and matched with Goldstick’s wall plates

415.663.9126

tions to guest books and champagne flutes,

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AUGUST 2008

Toast the host

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

these tiles, commonly graced with high-relief

★ BL AC K’ S FA R M WO OD ★

Folio 949 makes hostessing fun. And if you’re

Flower power

match most closely, you’d like them in hardto-find 15-gallon cans and they’re out of

lucky enough to be a guest, it’s a great place

★ N A NC Y A N N F L OW E R S ★

season? Savvy gardeners head to Sunnyside

Dewy-fresh, pristine-white, large and fra-

Nursery, whose Fairfax growing grounds

grant—we’d love the gardenias from Nancy

have served since 1940 as the five-acre off-

Ann Flowers at any price, but for 25 cents

site “warehouse” and venue for the compa-

each, we’re head-over-heels for them. Tuck

ny’s popular July and October sales. Visits to

★ Z A R AG OZ A ★

one behind your ear, float a trio of them in

the growing grounds during the week can

With her background in fine arts, fashion

a bowl or send them swimming in a pool. At

be arranged by appointment. 130 Sir Francis

and interior architecture and interest in nat-

this price, you can afford to splurge! 1505

Drake Blvd., San Anselmo; 415.453.2701;

ural history, it’s no surprise Diana Rudsten

Bridgeway, Sausalito; 415.332.6272

sunnysideofmarin.com

to pick up the perfect hostess gift. 1118 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; 415.461.0120

Artists among us

has turned the well-edited Zaragoza in San Anselmo into a destination for designers,

★ PA S S ION F L OW E R S ★

★ L A R N E R’ S S E E D S ★

buyers and any other decorative-object seek-

Renato Gouveia and Marcelo Camillo bring

The East Coast had Johnny Appleseed but,

er with an artistic eye.

their Brazilian sensibilities and passion for

here in Marin, we have Judith Larner Lowry,

The secrets to her success? She nev-

flowers to their aptly named Passionflowers

who has spread the message on (and the

er sources from the same place twice, she

floral shop in Corte Madera. Twisted tropical

beauty of) California’s native annuals, peren-

juxtaposes objects like handmade antique

leaves, jewel-tone blossoms, lots of orchids,

nials, wildflowers, grasses, shrubs and trees

Parisian bee skeps with hand-carved jade-

crisp lines and meticulous presentation all con-

by encouraging home gardeners to go na-

green bowls from China for unusual pre-

tribute to their bold signature style. 215 Corte

tive. The seeds, available in bulk or by packet,

sentations, and she offers a nice selection of

Madera Ave., Corte Madera; 415.927.3983

are propagated at her nursery in Bolinas and

artful but inexpensive gifts. 316 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., San Anselmo; 415.485.5061; zaragozacollection.com

sold online or on site. 235 Grove Rd., Bolinas;

★ S U N N Y S I DE N U R S E R Y ★

415.868.9407; larnerseeds.com

Where do you go when you need multiples of the same plant, you want the ones that

★ B AU L I N E S C R A F T G U I L D ★ Unique pieces from premier fine craftsmen— a modern teapot in sterling silver, a bold garden gate, sensuous wood furnishings, rustic ceramic bowls and striking jewelry, to mention a few—are among the treasures featured on the Baulines Craft Guild website. The nonprofit preserves California’s fine crafts by pairing master artisans with apprentices and presenting exhibitions, handson workshops and intensive studies, but art lovers can take a cue from museums and collectors who use the Guild as a resource. Purchase craft pieces at Guild exhibitions PHOTO: TIM PORTER

PHOTO: TIM PORTER

or link directly to the websites of many of its 90 member artisans. 415.458.3535; baulinescraftguild.org Zaragoza in San Anselmo

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H OME

A FLOATING

WORLD A RAVINE-SPANNING HOME THAT TREADS LIGHTLY ON THE LANDSCAPE STO RY P. J . B R EM I ER

P H OTO S BAR BAR A R I E S

BY P. J . B R E M I ER

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The Bridge House, designed by Stanley Saitowitz/Natoma Architects, won a coveted Excellence in Architecture award from the San Francisco chapter of the American Institute of Architects this spring. The view of the home from the front is shown above and the rear elevation featuring a pool in the foreground below.

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ust chalk it up to human nature.

connected the landscape but, more than that,

We tend to like what we know and, in the case

it floated over the landscape.”

of one young couple from central Marin, that

Three structural elements—the garage, the

meant traditional homes. Yet when they pur-

living area, and the pool with guesthouse—are

chased their 10-acre grassland property, they

divided by courtyards, an idea inspired by the

chose Stanley Saitowitz/Natoma Architects,

couple’s trip through Andalusia. They frame

which is best known for its modern designs.

the view and, like the patios on the lower lev-

“Modern architecture really speaks to us,”

the homeowner says. “It feels very real, balanced and connected to our lifestyle.”

Saitowitz envisioned a rusty bar ﬂoating in the landscape. “The idea of a bridge was a way to make a ﬂat area with the least impact on the hills,” he says.

el, encourage indoor/outdoor living. But repetition is the design hallmark, most notably in the extensive use of rectangles and

Saitowitz, influenced by modern mas-

glass and floating elements such as the fire-

ters Le Corbusier, van der Rohe and Aalto,

place and bubinga-wood built-in dining buf-

is a professor emeritus of architecture at UC

fet and family room entertainment center.

Berkeley and has been the subject of nu-

Clad in corten steel (even for the garage

merous books, magazines and museum ex-

bifold door) and glass — clear in the windows,

hibitions. When he first sketched his vision

etched in the railings and many doors — the

for a 24-foot-wide home that would span

home reflects the family’s casual lifestyle.

a ravine using post-tension slab construc-

“The house feels homey, cozy and organic

tion at the site’s lower elevation, “we were

to us,” says the lady of the house. “The open

hooked,” the owner says. “Previous plans for

spaces and clean lines leave us room to fill

the property had placed the house high on

in that space with our energy, our mess, and

the hillside to capture the Mount Tam views,

our moods.”

but by building on a low point of the prop-

On the lower floor, windows with offset

erty we preserved the rest of the valley for

mullions bathe the rooms in a soft light and

us to look up into.”

offer an intimate perspective on the front

Saitowitz envisioned a rusty bar floating

grounds’ no-mow lawn, oaks and ornamen-

in the landscape. “The idea of a bridge was a

tal trees. The children’s two bedrooms and

way to make a flat area with the least impact

Jack-and-Jill bathroom, their open play-

on the hills,” he says. “It’s a delicate object

room, a guest room/music room and a large

that spans and just touches the natural land-

laundry room are centered between the two

scape very lightly.”

adult spaces on either end of the floor—his

Yet “it’s got a very clear presence and

office and library on one side and their mas-

juxtaposes itself with nature,” he adds. “It

ter bedroom suite on the other. All are con-

doesn’t try to get ‘grovelly’ or imitate nature;

nected by a perimeter corridor with walls

it sets itself up as a strong counterpoint to

that serve as a revolving exhibit of family

the landscape.”

photographs and artwork.

Dubbed the Bridge House, the 5,500-

“We really wanted the house to be able

square-foot two-level home won a cov-

to grow with the children and with us,” the

eted Excellence in Architecture award from

mother says. “The downstairs playroom ad-

the San Francisco chapter of the American

joins their bedrooms and bath, so they really

Institute of Architects this spring. “The vote

‘own’ that space. When they are older, that will

was unanimous,” says AIA jurist Lawrence

be the computer spot and library for them.”

Scarpa of the Santa Monica firm Pugh +

Her light-suffused office fills a glass-en-

Scarpa. “The ideas were fresh: the building

closed niche off the master bedroom, which

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divides behind the bed and partition into two

and look out the window at what we call ‘the

perimeter aisles, each with a sink and coun-

bird show,’ which comes to a spectacular cli-

tertop of Lago Azul, but with access to a cen-

max during the evening hours when the bug-

tral dressing room, shower and lavatory.

hunting is best,” the homeowner says.

Upstairs, the view and ambience change:

The view, she adds, “is our entryway,” and

here 11-foot-high custom Fleetwood sliding

the lack of a grand foyer or staircase and the

doors open the entire space to broad up-valley

abundance of pocket doors—as well as the

views and form a corridor that, along with an

Murphy bed in the pool guesthouse and the

opposing solid wall corridor, connect the living

compact kitchen with easy-to-clean honed

and dining rooms, kitchen and family room.

black granite countertops, twin dishwash-

“My favorite thing about the house is the

ers and concealed pantry—were deliberate

way in which the outside really informs and

choices. “We wanted a house that was very

shapes our experience inside the house,” the

space-efficient.”

owner says. “Every room has a view that is wonderful and different.”

They also sought furnishings that weren’t typical of California modern homes, so they

In winter, twin seasonal creeks rush over

explored the work of top designers from

a rock outcropping before traveling under

South America with San Francisco interior

the house. Jackrabbits, deer, even a bobcat

designer Marc Melvin and kept to a color

appear in the golden grasses and, overhead,

palette of blues, browns and grays. “We fo-

red-tailed hawks and turkey vultures carve

cused on Brazil’s rich history of modern ar-

sweeping arcs in the sky while swallows dive

chitecture and modern furniture makers of

and dart below. “We sit in the family room

the ’30s, ’40s and ’50s,” Melvin says. “Once

They sought furnishings that weren’t typical of California modern homes. “We focused on Brazil’s rich history of modern architecture and modern furniture makers of the ’30s, ’40s and ’50s,” Melvin says.

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we had chosen some key pieces of furniture

that include careful siting for passive heating

for each room, we blended furniture from

and cooling, a photovoltaic system, radiant

Europe and America together with custom

heat and fluorescent lighting. Native grasses

pieces designed by our office to create a cool

disturbed during construction were repaired

Stanley Saitowitz/Natoma Architects Inc.

and sophisticated aesthetic.”

by John Merten of Studio Green, who also

CONTRACTOR

They chose living room chairs by Ricardo

planted a low-maintenance landscape and

Redhorse Constructors Inc.

Fasanello, a Spinneybeck-leather upholstered

developed a series of low-impact trails fol-

INTERIOR DESIGNER

sofa and extra-wide dining room chairs by

lowing existing deer trails.

Marc Melvin Design

Claudia Moreira Salles, and a dining table by

“It’s not a house plunked on the site out

Gregory Warchavchic. Melvin designed the

of a memory of what a house should be

walnut guitar-pick-shaped coffee table and

like,” Saitowitz points out. “Even though

two of the beds.

it looks different, it feels comfortable and

ARCHITECT/INTERIOR DESIGN

CABINETMAKER

Woodline Designs LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT

Despite the home’s size, its design respects the environment with green elements

appropriate and it’s very comfortable in its

Studio Green

landscape.”

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SICILY’S SIREN SONG S TO RY & P H OTO S BY B EN DAV I D S O N

My first journey to Sicily was about 30 years ago. I was 19 and flush with cash from a summertime stint in a dank and dangerous salmon-processing plant in Kodiak, Alaska. I had taken time off from my isolated, “potted” Ivy League school to spend a fall traveling solo in Europe—that being an era of cheap flights, an incredibly strong dollar and enticing student travel deals on rail and lodging throughout the continent.

me across the Channel and through northern Europe to southern France and the medieval town of Perpignan, just across the border from Spain. There, while staying in a youth hostel, I met a German girl who dreamily described her visit to the beautiful Aeolian Islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea off of Sicily. Lured by her siren song, and with time still remaining on my rail pass, I pitched a train trip to Italy. In a fit of youthful impulse, we were off.

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MAP C REATED BY TIM REED

I flew from San Francisco to London for a monthlong, unplanned odyssey that brought

PH OTO: ZAC H ARY C OFF MAN

J OU RNE Y

OPPOSITE : Savoring the perfect Italian coffee. THIS PAGE : Exotic Modica lures visitors with its Baroque architecture and specialty chocolate shops.

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the local architecture, language and culture. History buffs love Sicily for its well-preserved archaeological sites and dazzling array of architecture, from classic Greek temples to huge medieval churches and entire towns clad in Baroque elegance. Mount Etna, an active volcano whose 10,990foot cone commands nearly every view, dominates the island’s hilly terrain. Ringed by a steep, jagged coastline, the island is dotted with towns overlooking the sea. The vast rural interior is characterized by fields and barren, windswept uplands. It’s a big place and takes a least a week to fully explore. Life in Sicily, like in much of Italy, is steeped in tradition. It’s common to see elderly village women draped in black from head to toe, farmers in Godfather-esque straw caps leading mules through their fields, and grizzled fishermen gathered by wooden boats, repairing nets and selling their freshly caught wares in makeshift stalls. The pace is deliciously slow, colorful Sicilian dialects abound and the Arriving a day or so later in the seedy port town of Reggio Calabria at the southern tip of the mainland, we walked unnoticed onto a car ferry for an unexpected free ride to Sicily and, via another ferry, to the tiny islands of Lipari and Vulcano, two of the seven isles in the Aeolian archipelago. It was everything my friend had promised: beautiful beaches, sunny days, pristine fishing villages, quiet living. We had a memorable week. Recently, I found myself back in beautiful Sicilia, this time taking photos for an active-travel tour company catalog, seeing new sights, indulging in the local food and wines, and reviving the memories of my visit here years ago. Sicily, at nearly 10,000 square miles, is the largest region in Italy and the largest island in the Mediterranean. Not far from North Africa, it is an ancient crossroads, whose regional capital Palermo is Italy’s fifth-biggest city, a bustling citta of more than 1 million inhabitants. With a history stretching back across two millennia, Sicily has been ruled by Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans and Spanish. Each reigning occupier left its own impression on

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The pace is deliciously slow, colorful Sicilian dialects abound and the olive-oildrenched, seainspired cuisine is enticing.

olive-oil-drenched, sea-inspired cuisine is enticing. My weeklong trip started in Catania, where I had flown from Rome on a bumpy but scenic flight. I met my traveling companions and shuttled to Ragusa, where we settled into a magnificent hotel, the Eremo della Giubiliana, a12th-century Arabic fortification and later a convent used by the Knights of Malta. The hotel was full of comforts—a small pool in a gardenlike setting, a wonderful lounge with artwork and suits of armor, and cozy rooms that once served as cells for friars. A stone wall surrounds the hotel’s grounds and is topped by a whimsical turret whose winding staircase leads to views

of the countryside. As found everywhere in Sicily, cats of all sorts wandered wherever they chose, adding a sense of feline mystery to the place. We ventured out on bicycles through rolling terrain to the southeast, heading to Scicli, a fascinating city near Ragusa. Parking our bikes near the church of Santa Maria la Nova, with its huge neoclassical facade, we lunched outdoors on caprese salad and nocciola (hazelnut) gelato. We biked onward along the agricultural Irminio River valley to delightful Modica, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1693 and rebuilt in Baroque style. With honey-colored stone houses,

OPPOSITE : Risotto to die for (above) and

famous Sicilian reds (below). THIS PAGE : A sleepy Sicilian cat reposes

on Panarea (above); Hiking through the pretty island village of Stromboli.

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Speeding through the Aeolian archipelago in the Tyrrhenian Sea. OPPOSITE : The art of gelato on display in Scicli; a Baroque church facade in Modica.

huge churches, fountains, gargoyles and wrought iron balconies, Modica was a visual feast. To satisfy more than our eyes, we visited a dolceria modicana, a Modican chocolate factory that makes traditional Sicilian treats. That evening in Ragusa Ibla we strolled through the town’s piazza and marveled at illuminated Baroque churches. In the wine cave of ristorante Don Serafino, we dined on a traditional Sicilian meal that began with an olive oil tasting followed by local specialties such as mackerel with tomato capuliatu, ravioli with Ragusano cheese and rabbit with bacon and pistachio nuts. In the morning we traveled by van through

One of the world’s most active volcanoes, Stromboli has been in near continuous eruption for more than 3,000 years.

ater later reconstructed in the first century A.D. by the Romans, who held gladiator games here. After a guided tour of the theater, we hiked through the medieval center of Taormina, climbing steeply up a mule path lined with prickly pear and fig and olive trees to Castelmola, a cliffside hamlet built on the remains of a 16th-century castle. Here we lunched on crispy thin crust pizza, salads and refreshing granitas (a classic Sicilian crushed ice drink). Some of us trekked upward toward Mount Venere, the area’s highest mountain and said to have been the site of a Greek temple of Venus. The highlight of our trip for me was our last stop: the Aeolian Islands. We ferried from the port

a rugged landscape to Taormina, a coastal city

city of Milazzo to pretty, car-free Panarea and set-

perched on the slopes of Mount Tauro high above

tled into the Hotel Raya, which overlooks the

two sparkling bays. The main attraction is the

whitewashed fishing village. We spent the after-

Teatro Greco, a third-century B.C. Greek amphithe-

noon hiking about the island amid a spectacular

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landscape of wildflowers and sea views. The following day we cruised to the nearby island of Stromboli, where we walked in fields below the famous Stromboli volcano, featured in the 1950 film of the same name starring Ingrid Bergman. One of the world’s most active volcanoes, Stromboli has been in near continuous eruption for more than 3,000 years. Many hikers come here to ascend the 3,031-foot volcano for an up-close look into the caldera. We opted to visit the small town, lunch leisurely and hike around the bay. That night, aboard a small private boat, we watched Stromboli erupt under the stars. It was a dramatic finale to a luxurious but active week that, for those days at least, allowed me to relive the memories of my low-budget, youthful escapade in bella Sicilia.

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MARIN

AUGUST 2008

Savor Santa Barbara Toss the to-do list, but don’t miss the meals

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BY S A M A N T H A B ER RY

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

OPPOSITE : Stearns Wharf is a popular

attraction for visitors; LEFT : Santa Barbara Courthouse; BELOW : rooftop deck and pool at Canary Hotel.

OUR TO-DO LIST WAS LONG. We wanted to hike, rent kayaks, take a sunset cruise, see the

botanical gardens, walk Stearns Wharf, eat about a million great meals, shop, check out the Funk Zone, and do a little wine tasting in nearby Santa Ynez. The fact that my husband and I only had 48 hours in Santa Barbara, or that we arrived as bleary-eyed parents on our first kid-free weekend in two years, did not diminish our ambition. Despite the siren’s call of the enormous canopied bed in our room at the newly renovated Canary Hotel, we managed to check in and head out—easy as that, with no diaper bags or Snack Traps to worry about.

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The Canary is right downtown. In another

thought would be a quick look-see but turned

city this might mean honking horns and end-

out to be an epic shopping trip. It is nearly

less bustle. In Santa Barbara it means blocks

impossible to walk among such bounty—fra-

of classic California-Spanish architecture, bou-

grant basil, avocado honey, beets the color of

gainvillea on steroids, and strolls down State

mai tais—and not buy. Once our loot was stashed in the minibar,

Street spent window-shopping (me: clothes, husband: pastries).

it was time to do something non-food-orient-

Once we had gotten the lay of the land,

ed before, um, lunch. The Upper Hot Springs

we set out for the water. Before dinner that

Trail led us into the hills of Montecito and

night at the Four Seasons Biltmore, we took

so close to the palatial mansions there that

a walk on Butterfly Beach, hoping to catch a

we felt like trespassers. Once we’d passed

sunset and possibly a celebrity sighting (word

the manicured grounds and gigantic houses,

is, this is the place). Sunset? Check. But

it was up into the hills for spectacular pan-

Oprah was a no-show.

oramic views.

We made it to the patio at the Bella Vista

All of which is to say that we earned our

with just a minute of daylight left and dis-

trip to La Super Rica, a deservedly beloved

covered two more great things about Santa

taco shack recognizable by the line out the

Barbara: 1) you can show up for dinner at one of the most gorgeous

door, the smell of roasted pork in the air, and the aqua paint job. Two

and venerable resorts in town still brushing the sand off your feet and

words: homemade tortillas.

no one looks twice, and 2) your waiter might give you a tip about a taco

The afternoon was devoted to Santa Barbara’s answer to urban re-

shack that will totally rearrange your to-do list. On Saturday we slept

newal. We decided to walk (please see day’s caloric intake so far) to the

until nine, which is the parental equivalent of noon. After breakfast at

Funk Zone, where red tile roofs give way to warehouses filled with gal-

Tupelo Junction we ambled over to the farmers’ market for what we

leries, cafes, and surfboard shapers. But let’s be honest, we’d come for

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MARINMAGAZINE.COM

the wine. We stopped at Cellar 205, a wine-making cooperative and tasting room in a former tire shop, where you can sip boutique wines made from the county’s famous grapes. When

where to eat

we shut the place down (OK, it was only 5 p.m.) it was back

Seagrass

becue sauce. You’re on vacation, so

This downtown ﬁsh-focused restau-

just do yourself a favor and get the

few blocks from busy State Street, has an innovative seafood

rant is elegant without being stiff.

cinnamon apple beignets to start.

menu developed with local pinot noir in mind. Our Russian

The Russian River sturgeon and the

1218 State St., 805.899.3100,

River sturgeon and the Alma Rosa pinot from the nearby

Alma Rosa pinot from the nearby

tupelojunction.com

Santa Rita Hills made an absolutely perfect couple.

Santa Rita Hills made an absolutely

under 101 to our hotel to get ready for yet another meal. The fish-focused Seagrass, on an unassuming corner a

perfect couple. 30 East Ortega St.,

La Super Rica

organic “culinary” cocktails). Alas, we were done in by too

805.963.1012

You’ll know you’ve arrived at this

much good food, too much good wine and the temptation of

or seagrassrestaurant.com

deservedly beloved taco shack by

We meant to stop at Eos Lounge (we’d heard rumors of

the line awaiting patrons, the smell

another really good night’s sleep in that extraordinary Canary

Tupelo Junction

of roasted pork, and the aqua paint

The only problem? We had barely made a dent in our

Super popular, so make a reserva-

job. We were tipped off by our wait-

to-do list. We missed seeing the newly renovated ’20s-era

tion, especially if you plan to sleep

er at the Four Seasons, who told us

Granada Theater; we never made that sunset sail or man-

in. It’s worth it for the new takes on

about the handmade tortillas and

aged to rent kayaks for a harbor paddle. We failed to take in

classic breakfast dishes, like a pump-

encouraged us to order the spe-

wine country or brunch overlooking the bird refuge at Stella

kin oatmeal wafﬂe with caramelized

cial—a concoction of roasted pasilla

Mare’s. We totally neglected the botanical gardens. In fact,

bananas or the chicken, andouille

chiles, melted cheese and spicy pork

we let a whole weekend’s worth of fun pass us by. Which just

sausage and sweet corn hash with

adobada. Yum! 622 N. Milpas St.,

means we’ll have to come back soon.

poached eggs and homemade bar-

805.963.4940

bed, which is not such a bad thing for a weekend away.

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103

LO O K I NG BACK

RADIO DAYS

ABOVE: The Marconi Wire-

less Receiving Station was built in West Marin in 1913

BY JIM WOOD

IN THE 1890S — EVEN BEFORE EINSTEIN DEVELOPED HIS THEORY OF RELATIVITY —

scientists believed electric and magnetic forces existing in the atmosphere could be electrically

and included the four-story

activated to carry energy. One such visionary was Italian physicist Guglielmo Marconi, who in

hotel and nearby power-

1914 had the Marconi Wireless Receiving Station built in the West Marin village of Marshall. At

house. Both buildings are

the same time, Marconi also built a high-power transmitting station on the Bolinas mesa. Then

now surrounded by trees

in the late 1920s, the Radio Corporation of America (RCA) enlarged the Bolinas facility and con-

and still standing within the Marconi Conference Center and State Historical Park.

structed a new shortwave receiving center out on the Point Reyes Peninsula. These three multistory structures, all made of concrete, are still standing, though hidden by tall stands of pine and eucalyptus trees (save for the towering antennas, readily visible to passing motorists in Bolinas and Point Reyes). The energy these outposts generated and received were known as radio waves—swells of electric and magnetic energy that rolled through the atmosphere above the Pacific Ocean—similar to those on the watery surface below, although at the speed of light. And because radio was in its

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P HOTOS C OU RTESY OF M A RC ONI CONF ERENC E C ENTE R

West Marin in the early days of “wireless”

infancy, the antennas in Marshall, Bolinas and Point Reyes dealt almost exclusively in Morse code (SOS came across oceans as “. . . - - - . . .). Marconi was a pioneer in this emerging technology—and West Marin, through World War II, was one of its frontiers. Guglielmo Marconi first made history in 1901 when, at age 28, his Wireless Telegraph and Signal Company sent a radio signal 2,170 miles across the Atlantic Ocean from Cornwall, England, to St. John’s, Newfoundland. In 1907 he started the first commercial transatlantic wireless service. Two years later he won the Nobel Prize for Physics, but his fame truly soared in 1912 when SOS messages brought rescue ships to the sinking Titanic, saving over 700 lives. Soon Marconi’s goal was to see a series of high-powered wireless transmitters erected around the world, which is how stations came to be located in towns like Marshall and Bolinas. Why specifically West Marin? In 1905, the

ABOVE LEFT: Teams of horses were needed to transfer concrete building materials once they

reached the Marshall job site by rail. ABOVE RIGHT: Guglielmo Marconi, pictured with two

Palace Hotel, using, appropriately, the call let-

assistants, was 28 years old when he engineered sending a signal 2,710 miles across the

ters PH, became home to San Francisco’s first

Atlantic Ocean from England to Newfoundland (where this photo was taken).

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105

radio station. International rules soon dictated that a K be added, and in 1912, Marconi acquired KPH as the result of a merger with his competitor, United Wireless. “After the earthquake of ’06, and struggling with less-thanideal sites in Pacific Heights and Daly City, Marconi’s group considered the West Marin properties as ideal for reaching Hawaii with radio signals,” recounts Richard Dillman, a Point Reyes Station resident active in the Maritime Radio Historical Society. “Bolinas would be for

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Adding to the site’s mystique, from 1965 to 1980 it was world headquarters for Synanon, the drug rehabilitation program that eventually disintegrated under indictments for child abuse, money laundering and tax evasion. transmitting and Marshall for receiving.” Both facilities were operational by late 1914, making transpacific wireless communication possible not only with Hawaii, but from there, also Japan and Hong Kong. The Marshall complex included a power station, a signal-receiving center, homes for the station’s executives and their families, and a four-story hotel for the center’s unmarried personnel. “That four-story, 37-room hotel can easily be seen from Highway 1,” says Stephen B. Murch, a San Anselmo architect who’s overseen $1.96 million worth of construction and restoration at what’s now the Marconi Conference Center and State Historical Park. “People are

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always welcome to explore the grounds of the Marconi Conference Center,” he adds.

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still standing have been beautifully restored

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and now serve as staff quarters or conference

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main from the 275-foot antennas that once

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106

Except for the huge hotel, the old buildings

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AUGUST 2008

facilities. “Only the concrete cable anchors re-

dominated the site,” says Murch. “However,

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

there is a museum display of radios, transmitters and teletype logs.” Adding to the site’s mystique, from 1965 to 1980 it was world headquarters for Synanon, the statewide drug rehabilitation program that eventually disintegrated under indictments for “A Lucky Magazine Favorite Boutique”

child abuse, money laundering and tax evasion. According to architect Murch, the hotel,

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once a Synanon dorm but now boarded up,

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still has the garish green shag carpeting left

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over from those days.

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During World War I, the U.S. Navy took

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over operations of both radio transmitting and

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receiving stations, Dillman says. And after the

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war, “the U.S. government realized the signifi-

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cance of radio communications and began to

and SO much more . . .

control it,” he adds. “Somewhat as a result,

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RCA bought the American Marconi Company and with it, Marconi’s dream of owning a worldwide communications network.”

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As for Marconi’s Bolinas facility, located out Mesa Road four miles from town, Dillman of the Maritime Historical Society says, “The original buildings, those built by Marconi American, are behind the two-story concrete structure that was constructed by RCA in 1929.” According to him, “that white art deco building still bears the set-in-concrete title ‘RCA Communications Inc.’” However, for the past 30 years it’s been the headquarters for the renowned health and environmental think tank Commonweal. “And some

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old radio transmitters are still up on the second floor,” reports Commonweal general manager Waz Thomas. “Of course, the huge antennas are easily seen from Mesa Road.” And those towers haven’t fallen completely silent. “Every Saturday morning,” says historian Dillman, “a bunch of us convene what we call the Church of the Continuous Wave and,

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just for the drill, send Morse code signals out from the Bolinas station and receive replies from ships at sea at the Point Reyes facility.” He’s quick to mention RCA built both buildings some 80 years ago. “And once a year, on April 26,” Dillman adds, “we communicate with other stations around the world.” Why April 26? “That’s International Marconi Day. It’s the day Guglielmo Marconi was born in 1874.”

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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107

B OO K S

Pen Pals An aunt-and-niece collaboration yields a moving tale of how books can change your life by samantha berry

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MARINMAGAZINE.COM

ary Ann Shaffer was a fixture in the Marin book world for more than 30 years. Name a place where bib-

liophiles gather and chances are she worked there: the San Anselmo library, Book Passage, the Larkspur library, A Clean Well-Lighted Place for Books. For three decades it was hard to be a reader and not have come into contact with her gravelly Southern accent and bound-

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less enthusiasm for the written word. “She liked to read everything,” says niece and collaborator Annie Barrows. “I have this image of her in my mind from when I was a kid. She’d be at the kitchen table with a cup of coffee—a cold cup of coffee—reading while the kids just ran wild all around her.” Not only did she love to read stories, she

“There were no dry facts;

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everything was a charming anecdote. All you had to do

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was spend 10 minutes with my aunt and you could tell

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she was a natural writer,”

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says Barrows.

Accessories loved to tell them. “Everything was a great story,” says Barrows, author of the best-sellalso known as

ing children’s series Ivy and Bean. “There were no dry facts; everything was a charming anecdote. All you had to do was spend 10 minutes with her and you could tell she was a natural writer.”

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109

It’s really no surprise the passionate read-

HANE Y

er with a knack for telling a good yarn would eventually publish a novel of her own. Not that it didn’t take some nudging. Mary Ann’s

O R T H O D O N T I C S

writing group “harassed her and harassed her,”

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Barrows recalls, until finally, after many years of writing, she finished a draft of The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society.

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The novel sold quickly to a publisher, but still needed some work. This is where her writerly niece, who is also a book edi-

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tor, came in. “Mary Ann’s health started to fail and there were still lots of revisions to be done,” Barrows recalls. “She called me and asked me if I could do it.” The novel, due out this month from Dial Press, was born of this unusual collaboration. “The Guernsey was originally her book. It’s her story. I just sort of ran with it,” Barrows says. “My job was like sitting down with my aunt and talking. It felt very easy and natural.”

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The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society is an epistolary novel set in 1946, just as England is emerging from World War II. Juliet Ashton, a writer looking around for her

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next subject, receives an unexpected letter from a man on the island of Guernsey, occupied by the Nazis during the war.

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flap of a used book and wonders if she can help him find more books by Charles Lamb. Thus a long-distance friendship, rooted in a mutual love of books, is born. “The story is about the development of this book group,” Barrows says. “We see all these characters who maybe didn’t read that much and then they become transformed. It’s a very important theme for both Mary Ann and me, the idea that reading really does change your life. In circumstances where you are powerless, you really only have one power, and that

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is to be free in your mind.” Sadly, Mary Ann passed away before the American edition of the novel was published. But she did get to see the advance reader’s copy—and hence to know that her labor of love was on its way into the world. “And she got to see the Norwegian edition,” Barrows adds. “She really got a kick out of that.”

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An excerpt from The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society: 12th January, 1946 Dear Miss Ashton, My name is Dawsey Adams, and I live on my farm in St. Martin’s Parish on Guernsey. I know of you because I have an old book that once belonged to you—The Selected Essays of Elia, by an author whose name in real life was Charles Lamb. Your name and address were written inside the front cover. I will speak plain—I love Charles Lamb. My own book says Selected, so I wondered if that meant he had written other things to choose from? These are pieces I want to read, and though the Germans are gone now, there aren’t any bookshops left on Guernsey. I want to ask a kindness of you. Could you send me the name and address of a bookstore in London? I would like to order more of Charles Lamb’s writing by mail. I would also like to ask if anyone has written his life story, and if they have, could a copy be found for me? For all his bright and turning mind, I think Mr. Lamb must have had great sadness in his life. Charles Lamb made me laugh during the German occupation, especially when he wrote about the roast pig. The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society came into being because of a roast pig we had to keep secret from the

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German soldiers, so I feel a kinship to Mr. Lamb.

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I am sorry to bother you, but I would be sorrier still not to know about him, as his writings have made me his friend.

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Hoping not to trouble you, Dawsey Adams P.S. My friend Mrs. Maugery bough a pamphlet that once belonged to you, too. It is called Was There a Burning Bush? A Defense of Moses and the Ten Commandments. She liked your margin note, “Word of God or crowd control???” Did you ever decide which?

Annie Barrows will discuss and read from The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society at Book Passage on August 10 at 1 p.m.

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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33 Montecito Drive, Corte Madera, CA 94925

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CAL E N DA R

AUGUST ARTS & EVENTS GUIDE

The Drowsy Chaperone at the Orpheum Theater, through August 17.

THEATER Thru September 21 Hail Caesar Teatro ZinZanni brings back one of its most popular shows, which premiered in 2006 and is set in an imaginary Valley of the Kings. The show stars Frank Ferrante and veteran Broadway actor and star of the Moulin Rouge in Paris Debbie de Coudreaux. Pier 29 (SF). 415.438.2668, zinzanni.org Thru 17 Driving Miss Daisy The smash hit that won an Academy Award and Pulitzer Prize comes to Marin. Ross Valley Players Barn Theatre (Marin Art and Garden Center). 415.456.9555, rossvalleyplayers.com

Thru 17 The Drowsy Chaperone The tale of a modern-day musical theater addict 112

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AUGUST 2008

who plays his favorite record, “The Drowsy Chaperone”, to cheer himself up. Orpheum Theater (SF). 415.551.2020, shnsf.com

Thru 24 Amadeus William Elsman stars as Salieri in this tale of political intrigue, sexual betrayal and artistic backstabbing. Forest Meadows Amphitheatre (San Rafael). 415.499.4488, marinshakespeare.org

MUSIC Tuesdays Open Mic Night Erin Hines hosts an evening of beat boxers, accordions, blues players and more. Sweetwater Station (Larkspur). 415.706.1164 Tuesdays Swing Fever The band pays

COMEDY

tribute to jazz artists and composers, playing selections from its roster of over 1,000 tunes. Panama Hotel (San Rafael). 415.457.3993, panamahotel.com

Tuesdays Mark Pitta and Friends The comic hosts an evening for up-and-comers and established headliners to work on new material. 142 Throckmorton Theatre (Mill Valley). 415.383.9600, 142throckmortontheatre.com

Thru August Town Center Music Series Browse the shops, get a bite to eat and grab a chair for the annual music series. Acts include Allegra and Solid Air, Michael Klapholz and Miss Kitty. Town Center (Corte Madera). 415.924.2961, shoptowncenter.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

1 SF Opera Don Giovanni, a young nobleman who has led a life filled with amorous conquests, meets defeat in three encounters—with Donna Elvira, whom he has deserted but who still follows him; with Donna Anna, whom he attempted to rape only to be forced to flee, killing her father, the Commendatore, in the process; and with Zerlina, whom he vainly tries to lure from her fiancé, the peasant Masetto. War Memorial Opera House (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com

GALLERIES

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MARIN Artisan Art Gallery Absolutely Abstract This open regional juried show encompasses some of the best of the Bay Area’s abstract artists, thru August 30. 853 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.460.5208 Art League of Northern California Realities and Illusions A national juried show, August 23—September 21. 781 Hamilton Pkwy, Novato. 415.246.2541, artleagueofnortherncalifornia.org

415.927.1793 125 Corte Madera Town Center • Corte Madera, CA

Art Works Downtown Assemblage An Ivan Majdrakoff juried show, thru September 19. 1337 Fourth St, San Rafael. 415.451.8119, artworksdowntown.org Claudia Chapline Gallery Waves Work by Michael Knowlton and Nancy Stein, thru September 2. 3445 Shoreline Hwy, Stinson Beach. 415.868.2308, cchapline.com Gallery Bergelli Ongoing work. 483 Magnolia Ave, Larkspur. 415.945.9454, gallerybergelli.com Gallery Route One Members’ ongoing work. 11101 Highway One, Point Reyes Station. 415.663.1347, galleryrouteone.org Marin Society of Artists Ongoing work. 30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, Ross. 415.454.9561, marinsocietyofartists.org O’Hanlon Center for the Arts Ongoing work. 616 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.388.4331, ohanloncenter.org MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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Robert Allen Fine Art Ongoing work. 301 Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.2800, robertallenfineart.com Robert Beck Gallery Ongoing work. 222 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, San Anselmo. 415.456.7898 Robert Green Fine Arts A group exhibit of paintings by Jerry Concha, John Grillo, Ed Moses, Paul Jenkins and Sam Francis, thru August. 154 Throckmorton Ave, Mill Valley. 415.381.8776, rgfinearts.com Sam the Butcher Photography by Marin resident Anne Rosenfeld, thru August 23. 19 Ross Common, Ross. 415.902.1019 Studio 333 Ongoing work. 333A Caledonia St, Sausalito. 415.331.8272, studio333.info The Art Bar This fine art gallery offers rotating exhibits and art consulting services for clients who want to acquire specific works. 34 Main St, Tiburon. 415.435.3999, theartbar.us

SAN FRANCISCO ArtHaus Outward Appearances A solo exhibition of work by New York artist Joanne Landis and a group exhibition of ﬁgurative works by gallery artists, thru September 27. 411 Brannan St, 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com Berggruen Gallery Edited photographs by Gregory Crewdson and Darren Almond, thru August 9. 228 Grant Ave, 415.781.4629, berggruen.com Cain Schulte Gallery Translucent: Contemporary Works in Wax The galleries second collaboration with the International Encaustic Artists Association, thru August 16. 101 Townsend St, 415.543.1550, mmgalleries.com Caldwell Snyder Gallery Recent paintings by Manel Anoro, thru August. 341 Sutter St, 415.296.7896, caldwellsnyder.com Elins Eagles Smith Gallery Dialogue China

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A variety of works from Chinese artists, thru August. 49 Geary St, 415.981.1080, eesgallery.com George Krevsky Gallery work by Glenna Putt, thru August 30. 77 Geary St, 415.397.9748, georgekrevskygallery.com Gregory Lind Gallery Work by Ernesto Burgos, Kyle Ranson and Derrick Snodgrass, thru August 16. 49 Geary St, 415.296.9661, gregorylindgallery.com Hackett-Freedman Gallery Work by Jeffrey Ripple, thru August 30. 250 Sutter St, 415.362.7152, hackettfreedman.com Meyerovich Gallery Undiscovered Monotypes In celebration of the artist Matt Phillips’s 80th birthday, the gallery is exhibiting his work, which showcases favorite themes including gardens, nudes and landscapes, along with a self-portrait series and works that reﬂects his international travels, thru August 12. 251 Post St, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com

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114

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Rena Bransten Gallery Paintings by Amer Kobaslija and a group show, thru August 16. 77 Geary St, 415.982.3292, renabranstengallery.com

Midsummer Night’s Dream Under the Stars “THE COURSE OF TRUE LOVE NEVER DID RUN SMOOTH,” says Lysander in A

MUSEUMS

Midsummer Night’s Dream. Love’s difﬁculties prove to be a hilarious theme in the North Bay Shakespeare Company’s production of William Shakespeare’s romantic comedy, which features three plots connected by the wedding of Duke Theseus of Athens and

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the Amazonian queen Hippolyta and bizarre situations brought on by fairies’ magic. Hector

Bay Area Discovery Museum Tales from the Land of Gullah Design a quilt, make music, create and act in your own story and ﬁnd your “Gullah nickname” in this exhibit, thru September 14 (Sausalito). 415.339.3958, baykidsmuseum.org

Correa, who has worked for ACT, Berkeley Repertory Theatre, Marin Theatre Company, the Magic Theatre and the San Francisco Shakespeare Festival, directs the outdoor production at Hamilton Amphitheater— the site for many USO shows and even

Bolinas Museum Artist as Living Sculpture: Sha Sha Higby in the Courtyard, July 6. Work by Lois Lancaster, thru August 17 (Bolinas). 415.868.0330, bolinasmuseum.org

a Bob Hope performance. A Midsummer Night’s Dream runs each Friday, Saturday and Sunday, August 9th—September 28th. Hamilton Amphitheater (Novato). 415.381.1115, nbshakes.org

Lorenzo Moya, “En El Camino”, 24 x 32, oil on canvas

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Nancy Pelosi In Marin August 12

Thru 30 Art Exhibit Original art featuring four-legged furry friends by New York painter and illustrator Bill Charmatz. Rebalance Studio and Gallery (Petaluma). 707.694.8813, billcharmatz.com

FIRST WOMAN SPEAKER OF THE HOUSE, NANCY PELOSI is inspiring women

with her new book Know Your Power: A Message to America’s Daughters. Pelosi, who divides her time between Washington, D.C., and San Francisco, has said, “I ﬁnd it humbling and deeply moving when women and girls approach me, looking for insight and advice. If women can learn from me, in the same way I learned from the women who came before me, it will

1, 8, 15 Friday Nights on Main Main Street and Ark Row are shut down to cars to welcome locals and visitors with food, drink, music and shopping during this annual event in Tiburon. Main St (Tiburon). ci.tiburon.ca.us

make the honor of being Speaker of the House even more meaningful.” In her book she reminds women

3 Author Talk Micha Berman will be talking

to follow their dreams and that anything is possible.

about his new book Permanent Passenger: My Life on a Cruise Ship. Book Passage (Corte Madera). 415.927.0960, bookpassage.com

Pelosi has served in Congress for over 20 years and is the mother of ﬁve children and the grandmother of seven. She speaks about her book on August 12 at Angelico Hall on the Dominican University Campus. 415.927.0960, bookpassage.com

Falkirk Cultural Center The Parlor of Earthly Delights Woodturners, metal artists, ceramic sculptors and furniture makers come together to create unique hybrid art objects, thru August 16 (San Rafael). 415.485.3438, falkirkculturalcenter.org

BAY AREA Asian Art Museum Later Chinese Jades: Ming Dynasty to Early 20th Century View 73 examples of later Chinese jades that are presented in a special installation to coincide with the publication of a major catalog documenting the collection (SF). 415.581.3500, asianart.org de Young For Tent or Trade: Masterpieces of Turkmen Weaving Over 40 examples are on view in the Textile Gallery. The pieces were almost all given to the museum by four donors, thru September 7 (SF). 415.863.3330, thinker.org Exploratorium Superstition Obstacle Course Special interactive exhibits test your reactions to superstitions from around the world. Break mirrors, walk under ladders and spill salt in this exhibit that investigates your ideas on risk, reason and fear, 116

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thru September 1 (SF). Exploratorium (SF). 415.561.0377, exploratorium.edu Legion of Honor Highlights from the Israel Antiquities Authority: The Dead Sea Scrolls and 5,000 Years of Treasures One of the greatest archaeological discoveries in history, the Dead Sea Scrolls were excavated by archaeologists in caves along the northwestern shore of the Dead Sea; fragments of the scrolls were pieced together to form more than 800 documents, some of which are on view, thru August 10 (SF). 415.863.3330, legionofhonor.org

5—October 13 Cool Globes Public art is presented to increase awareness of global warming. The event was founded by environmentalist Wendy Abrams, who wanted to promote simple solutions to the problem. Crissy Field (SF). coolglobes.com 9 Bike Race The Carrera de San Rafael Bike Race is expected to attract the top professional teams in the country and abroad. Stay for the race but don’t miss the expo on Fourth Street. Downtown San Rafael. 415.342.2196, carrerasanrafael.com

9 Author Talk Jean Houston, Neale Donald Walsch and Joan Borysenko give insight to their books. Marin Veterans’ Memorial Auditorium (San Rafael). 415.499.6800, ggcsl.org

9 & 23 Sunset Hike Join this hike-andSFMOMA Half Life of a Dream: Contemporary Chinese Art from the Logan Collection Almost 50 works by Chinese artists including shadows, masks, costumes and more on display, thru October 5 (SF). 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org

EVENTS Sundays Boomercize Classes This low-impact ﬁtness program features dance steps and music from the American Bandstand hit parade. Marci Judelson leads the onehour workout. Presidio Dance Theater (SF). 415.608.4503, boomercize.com

dine club for a three-mile hike followed by a picnic dinner overlooking the ocean. Bring your favorite beverage; the $25 price includes sushi, cheeses and blankets. Meet at 5:30 p.m. at Mountain Home Inn (Mill Valley). 415.331.0100

9 & 10 Headlands Hundred Enjoy views of the coast as you run 50 or 100 miles along the Marin Headlands. Rodeo Beach (GGNRA). pctrailruns.com 16 Food and Wine Festival San Rafael’s Food & Wine Festival will feature wine and beer tasting, cuisine from local restaurants and a showcase of local art and muMARINMAGAZINE.COM

sic. Falkirk Cultural Center (San Rafael). 800.310.6563, sresproductions.com

16 Merola Grand Finale Reception Celebrate the culmination of this year’s program with champagne and dessert at an elegant reception. Veteran’s Building Green Room (SF). 415.864.3330, sfopera.com

17 Car Show Thousands of people are expected to attend the Downtown San Anselmo Merchants Association’s third annual Hot August Cool Cars Classic Car Show, which beneﬁts the city’s holiday lights fund. San Anselmo Ave (San Anselmo). 415.254.7796 23 & 24 Art Festival Ark Row will be the place to celebrate local talent during Tiburon’s second annual art festival; work will be judged by Philip Linhares and Alison Gass. Ark Row (Tiburon). 415.435.4355 29—September 1 Sausalito Art Festival More than 20,000 works of art from around the world will be on display at this year’s festival. Marinship Park (Sausalito). 415.332.3555, sausalitoartfestival.org 30 Belvedere Block Parties Join your neighbors and make new friends during this night of citywide block parties in Belvedere. Each block plans its own event with music, dancing, food and more. 415.435.3218 31 Slow Food Nation Join thousands of enthusiasts for the much anticipated foodie event, highlighting farming practices celebrated in West Marin. Slow Food Nation. Herbst Pavilion (SF). slowfoodnation.org

NATURE WALKS/TALKS Ongoing Sonoma History Local actor George Webber morphs into Mark Twain, as he retells the history of Sonoma (Sonoma). 707.694.5097, georgewebber.com

RETAIL THERAPY Thru August Bliss Spa Indulge in the spa’s new pedicolada pedicure, a tropical treatment that includes a coconut-milk soak and shredded coconut scrub and a hot seashell massage, all while you sip on MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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a virgin pina colada. The spa also features new products including Bikini Perfect, an at-home grooming product. Bliss Spa (SF). 415.281.0990, blissworld.com

Thru August Jo Malone Luxury skin care line Jo Malone has launched the new Vitamin E Body Treatment Scrub to rave reviews from devoted fans. The non-abrasive treatment sloughs away surface cells to unveil radiant skin. The scrub contains purifying sea salt and organic brown sugar. Available at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue (SF). jomalone.com

22 Item Sale Head to Joy Goldberg’s fabulous shoe boutique for a blowout sale on heels, ﬂats and more. Item Shoes (Larkspur). 415.925.0109, item-shoes.com

WINE COUNTRY Now Open 25 Degrees Restaurant

Photo by Curtis Myers

Meet DAvid Retsky of County Line Harvest at the Civic Center Farmers MArkets Family. . .friends. . .work. . .community. . .faith. . .fitness. . .finances. . .personal creativity. . . and now food? Today’s eaters must navigate a sea of certifications and terms: organic, humane, salmon-safe, natural, sustainable, transitional, no-spray — all designed to “help” eaters decide what to eat. However committed you are to eating only what’s in season, whatever line you draw for where your food comes from, we believe that the most important piece of the puzzle is being conscious of the fact that the food we eat is an investment in the world we want to create. It’s a lot to balance, but awareness is the first step toward enlightenment, and the farmers market is the perfect place to practice. David Retsky is a first generation farmer growing a diverse variety of organic salad greens and vegetables on 6 acres in Sonoma County since 2000, and 26 acres in Marin County since 2007. For the full interview visit marinfarmersmarkets.org.

Newly opened 25 Degrees Brix Restaurant and Gardens features cuisine by executive chef Carlos Canada. The restaurant also has outdoor dining on the pergola-shaped patio with views of the gardens and Mayacamas mountains. 7737 St. Helena Hwy, Napa. 707.944.2749, 25degreesbrix.com

16 Sustainable Winegrowing Hike Join Kunde Estate and Sonoma docent Bill Myers on a casual hike in the 1,850-acre Kunde area. Hikers will see sustainable winegrowing practices at work and the area’s spectacular scenery. Bring a lunch, sunscreen and water. Kunde Estate (Sonoma). 707.833.5501 29—31 Sonoma Wine Country Weekend More than 200 world-class wineries and chefs showcase their talents at winemaker meals, the Taste of Sonoma event and the much-anticipated wine auction. Various locations in Sonoma. 800.939.7666, sonomawinecountryweekend.com

TRAVEL BUZZ Marin Civic Center (Sun & Thurs, 8-1, ALL YEAR) Novato (Tues, 4-8, May-SEptember) Fairfax (Wed, 4-8, May-September) 1 - 8 0 0 - 8 9 7 - FA R M

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Newark (Sun, 9-1, ALL YEAR) OAKLAND — Grand Lake (Sat, 9-2, ALL YEAR) Hayward (Sat, 9-1, All Year) M A R I N FA R M E R S M A R K E T. O R G

Aqua Coconut Waikiki In celebration of the hotel’s grand opening, the property is featuring a Going Coconuts special, which includes the retro rooms at huge discounts off the rack rates. Rates start at $119. 866.406.2782, aquaresorts.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

Campton Place The San Francisco hotel’s “Sail San Francisco” package includes overnight accommodations, breakfast, transport to the pier and an intimate sail aboard a 36foot sailboat, thru August. Package starts at $585. The “Weekend Dinner” package at the hotel includes overnight accommodations, guaranteed admission to Vessel Lounge and a ﬁve-course tasting menu from chef Srijith Gopinathan of Taj Maldives fame, thru December. Package starts at $535. 866.332.1670, camptonplace.com Harrah’s Summit Suites Harrah’s Lake Tahoe has unveiled a new $30 million Summit Suites section on the 17th ﬂoor of the hotel, overlooking the lake and surrounding mountains. The Suites are considered a hotel within a hotel and have been offered only to exclusive invitation-only clientele; however, they have just recently been opened to the public. The suites include a team of butlers, themed rooms such as the sports suite and tranquility suite and a private elevator to the suites area. Prices start at $2,000 a night. 877.950.7702

welcome . enjoy . indulge ﬁne women’s clothing & accessories nanette lepore norma kamali diane von furstenberg theory suzi roher isabel de pedro trina turk three dot vince (415) 892-2255 bettyann869@aol.com 869 Grant Avenue, Novato

Healdsburg Hotels The “Reﬁll, Redeem, Relax” package includes one night’s stay in a spa tub room at local hotels, including Calderwood Inn and Irish Rose, among others, two massages or facials at the hotel, a $50 gas card, a $50 dinner voucher, $50 shopping gift certiﬁcate and a private winery tour and tasting for two. Valid Sunday thru Thursday, thru October. Package starting at $600. 707.431.2800, hotelhealdsburg.com Montage Laguna Beach Spend the day at the spa while the kids are enrolled in the luxury resort’s “Art of Etiquette” program. This class is part lifeskills tutorial and part traditional etiquette. The session covers manners, common courtesies, dining skills and more. $200 per child. 888.715.6700, montagehotels.com Omni San Diego Th exclusive Georgia O’Keeffe package includes accommodations and tickets to the “Georgia O’Keeffe and the Women of the Stieglitz Circle” tour and a take-home gift of a special-edition book featuring the artist, thru September 24. The package starts at $289. 800.843.6664, omnihotels.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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F LAVO R

❉

Spain’s Soup-salad

“Gazpacho has become an American food fashion.” —Betty Watson “G

According to James Beard Cookbook of the Year award winner Cliﬀord A. Wright, gazpacho is a liquid salad from the southern Spanish region of Andalusia, is the area’s best known dish, and probably originated as a soup during the time when Spain was part of the Islamic world in the Middle Ages. Across the world in Marin, local chefs are taking inspiration from Spain and adding their own twist to the summer dish. — S.F.

Heidi Krahling, owner/chef

Goetz Boje, owner

Insalata’s, San Anselmo

Cacti Grill, Novato

gazpacho is by far my favorite

I have been mak-

Gazpacho is a

summer meal: light, refreshing

ing gazpacho

very popular

and very healthy. We prepare a

for years. But it

chilled soup at

traditional gazpacho combining ripe local produce to-

wasn’t until I went to Spain that I had

our restaurant. Some of the ingredients

matoes (sometimes we even use the tomatoes we grow

a truly revelatory gazpacho experience.

we use include diced celery, ripe toma-

in our backyard in San Rafael from seeds we got in

The secret is a ‘truckload’ of fruity ex-

toes, red and yellow bell peppers, cu-

Spain), garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, vinegar and a little

tra- virgin olive oil. The ingredients are

cumbers and chopped parsley. We also

bit of magic. Serve the soup with tomato, cucumber,

simple and pure. It is not supposed to

pay special attention to achieving the

pepper and toasted bread. As an option, add a little bit

look and taste like salsa. P.S. Don’t skimp

right balance between the red wine vin-

of sherry and serve the soup in a cold shot glass.

on the salt.

egar and sugar.

Maika Llorens, owner Sabor of Spain, San Rafael

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C H EF PHOTOS : NIKE VA N D ER MOLEN

Having grown up in Spain, chilled

larkspur landing 415.925.0303 sf union square 415.693.0303 downtown san jose 408.938.4100

Nutritious Soup: Sip away your stress... Not only is gazpacho an antioxidantrich soup but, according to the United States Department of Agriculture and the Journal of Nutrition, 12 volunteers who were fed two bowls of it every day for two weeks started showing increased blood levels of vitamin C (more than 20 percent) on only the seventh day. Stress molecules were also measured during the study; one such molecule, uric acid was reduced by 18 percent in the male volunteers and 8 percent in the females. High blood levels of uric acid, have been associated with an increased risk of cardiovascu-

gift cards available in store or online at eotrading.com

lar disease and gout. Three other stress molecules were also signiﬁcantly decreased after the two-week study. — S.F.

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INSIDER’S GUIDE

DINE OUT CORTE MADERA BENISSIMO Italian Benissimo means “really really good” in Italian. From margherita pizza to veal parmagiana to mocha mud pie, Benissimo serves a taste of Italy in a casual neighborhood venue. 18 Tamalpais Dr, 415.927.2316 benissimos.com CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN Cal/Eclectic Be prepared for chaos. Easy place to meet with kids; Mom/Dad can enjoy a tasty Thai crunch salad and decent glass of wine while the little ones feast on basic kid-size portions of pasta and pizza. 347 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.945.0401 IL FORNAIO Italian Sausalito’s Larry Mindel hit a home run with this upscale Italian 23-restaurant franchise. Besides the award-winning breads, pizzas and pastas, the menu boasts a variety of salads and noncarb entrées. 223 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.4400, ilfornaio.com IZZY’S STEAKS & CHOP HOUSE American The legendary San Francisco steak house has moved north. Known for great steaks and seafood as well

as its fine wine selection, this is a great spot for a group or intimate dinner for two. 55 Tamal Vista, 415.924.3366, izzyssteaksandchops.com LA MAISON DE LA REINE Vietnamese A refreshing change amid the plethora of Italian, Mexican and Chinese options. The crunchy cabbage chicken salad with peanuts, fresh spring rolls, and combinations of pho are delicious. 346 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.0288 MARIN JOE’S Italian Pasta and other Italian dishes have been served up here for over 50 years. Pick from soup, salad, seafood mesquitegrilled or sautéed meats and over 10 pasta options guaranteed to satisfy. Have a drink and hear local musicians at the well-known piano bar. 1585 Casa Buena Dr, 415.924.2081, marinjoesrestaurant.com MAX’S CAFE American Located across from Town Center, Max’s is renowned for casual ambience and large portions. The menu changes with the season but features year-round favorites like matzo ball soup and BLTs. Besides decadent portions or comfort food and desserts, the menu also offers seasonable local produce and healthy items too. 60 Madera Blvd, 415.924.6297, maxsworld.com PACIFIC CATCH Pan-Asian This well-priced fresh grill eatery offers a bounty of Pacific Rim—inspired small or main plates, like the generously portioned wasabi bowls filled with rice (white or brown), veggies and your choice of fresh or raw fish, chicken or beef. 223 Corte Madera Town Center, 415.927.3474, pacificcatch.com

Interior of Nick’s Cove in Tamales Bay

P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO Chinese As of 2008, Marin diners don’t have to travel in order to enjoy the famed orange chicken, salt-and-pepper calamari or Mongolian beef. The restaurant serves lunch, dinner and takeout. 301 Corte Madera Town Center (Corte Madera). 415.413.9890. pfchangs.com RICK’S WINE CELLAR California This bar and wine shop is located at the same spot as Marin’s first wine bar, which opened back in 1988 in Corte Madera’s old town square. Now owned and operated by Marin natives Rick and Candy Mendell whose customers call this the “Cheers of Corte Madera.” Offerings include a glass, a ﬂight, or a bottle—all of which pair nicely with the cheeses, salami and hot paninis. 207 Corte Madera Ave, 415.927.9466 rickswinecellar.com

FAIRFAX DEER PARK VILLA Italian This “best place for a party” (Paciﬁc Sun) sits on four garden acres; the Ghiringhelli family has been turning out Italian favorites here since 1937. Come for the famous veal parmesan—or your next big celebration. 367 Bolinas Rd, 415.456.8084, deerparkvilla.com IRON SPRINGS PUB & BREWERY American Grab a beer and a grilled portobello mushroom sandwich—which one Chronicle reviewer calls “the best mushroom dish I have ever tasted”—at the former Ross Valley Brewing Company. 765-A Center Blvd, 415.485.1005, ironspringspub.com PANCHO VILLA’S Mexican A Fairfax favorite for over 30 years. Since 1976, head chef Francisco has been turning out treats like chile relleno stuffed with jack cheese, cilantro and onion and crab enchiladas topped with a mild tomatillo sauce and sour cream. 1625 Sir Frances Drake Blvd, 415.456.4331, panchosfairfax.com SORELLA CAFÉ Italian Not only is the food satisfying and tasty; the service is friendly and the ambience is warm and inviting. 107 Bolinas Rd, 415.258.4520

GREENBRAE CAFE Z American A pleasant surprise in the Bon Air shopping mall. Dishes like grilled chicken pesto pianni and savory crepes have quickly made this intimate spot a local favorite, and inventive meals keep people coming back for more. 282 Bon Air Center, 415.461.9444, cafez.com JASON’S Italian It’s expected that the new Greenbrae location of Jason Lee’s signature restaurant will have the same loyal following it enjoyed in San Rafael with items liked smoked tomato seafood cioppino and ﬂourless chocolate cake. 300 Drake’s Landing Rd, 415.925.0808, jasonsrestaurant.com WIPEOUT CAFE American Belvedere residents Nancy and Scooter Simmons , known for the popular Chevy’s chain , have brought their San Francisco location of the surf-themed Wipeout Bar and Grill to the Bon Air Center. The 122

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restaurant features a full bar, outdoor patio and family-friendly items like sandwiches, salads and pizzas in a T-shirt-and-sandals atmosphere. 302 Bon Air Center (Greenbrae). 415.461.7400, wipeoutbarandgrill.com

KENTFIELD HALF DAY CAFE American A tucked-away setting of intertwining ivy and great white windows makes the perfect breakfast nook. The setting is casual but elegant; the menu includes lattes, exceptional pastries and much more. Dine on the outdoor patio or inside where the view is just as divine. 848 College Ave, 415.459.0291 WILLIE’S CAFE American Stop here for down-toearth atmosphere and reasonable prices. This cozy spot offers breakfast, lunch and dinner; favorites include corn pancakes and veggie frittata. 799 College Ave, 415.455.9455

LARKSPUR CJ CHINESE CUISINE Chinese Great spot to satisfy a craving for wonton soup before catching a show at the Lark Theater; lunch and takeout are popular too. 435 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0717 E & 0 TRADING COMPANY Southeast Asian Chef Edwin Cabriloa-Torres is keeping the restaurant’s innovative plates like Indonesian corn fritters and Thai seafood clay pot as tasty as ever. Without reservations, try a spot at the large communal table. 2231 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.925.0303, eotrading.com EMPORIO RULLI Italian Pastry chef Gary Rulli is renowned for his Northern Italian specialties and treats. The Larkspur location (there are three others) is a popular spot for lunch as well as coffee and a sweet. 464 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7478, rulli.com

Celebrating 30 Years in Marin! Restaurant & Wine Bar

FABRIZIO RISTORANTE Italian Traditional Italian dishes with an extensive wine list from regions all over Italy; outside seating makes the experience even more special. 455 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.3332 LARK CREEK INN American This ﬂagship eatery for the Lark Creek Restaurant Group opened back in 1989 and was hailed by the New York Times as having “the best home cooking you can imagine.” It remains a perennial special occasion spot and is still known for inventive country cooking—as well as a cozy bar scene. 234 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7766, larkcreek.com LEFT BANK RESTAURANT French Known for award-winning French cuisine and its lively brasserie ambience, this corner spot has rated high with local for well over a decade. Those with a petite appetite/budget can opt for happy hour (4–6 M–F) and enjoy appetizers, all priced under three dollars. 507 Magnolia Ave, 415.927.3331, leftbank.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

415-388-9100 1 BlackÄeld Drive, Tiburon, The Cove Shopping Center MARIN

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Call the Shot! Call the Shot has a simple premise: Tell us what this is a picture of and win a $100 gift certiﬁcate for E & O Trading in Larkspur Landing. To win, you must be speciﬁc. Sure, it’s a big bug, but what city is it in and what business does it tout? Hint: When heading north on 101, look to the east. Here’s how to play: Go to marinmagazine.com, agree to the rules and submit your answer. Simple. We’ll choose the winner randomly from all the correct answers. Good luck! And the winner is: Patricia Winterson of Mill Valley won June’s Call the Shot by correctly identifying The Depot Bookstore in Mill Valley.

How o well d ow n k you in? Mar

MARIN BREWING CO. American Grab a cold beer made right on site and pair it with fish and chips—fresh cod dipped in Mt. Tam pale ale batter, served with steak fries and homemade tartar sauce. 1809 Larkspur Landing Circle, 415.461.4677, marinbrewing.com PICCO California Chef and celebrated restaurateur Bruce Hill deserves the accolades he has received for this eclectic shared-plate heaven. Dishes like mini-burgers and seasonally driven menu items, along with risotto made every half hour, keep people coming back. The Picco Pizzeria and Wine Bar next door is cozy (not many seats) but already famous for its wood-fired pizzas, great wine selection and soft-serve Straus Family Creamery ice cream. 320 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.0300, restaurantpicco.com RUSTIC BAKERY California Organic mouthwatering pastries, breads, and sandwiches are on the menu here. The Meyer lemon mascarpone danish and the bacon, avocado and heirloom tomato sandwich with mesclun are perennial temptations. 1139 Magnolia Ave, 415.925.1556, rusticbakery.com TABLE CAFÉ Indian/American Indian-inspired cafe offers a unique menu featuring entirely organic ingredients. Dishes include seasonal salads, incredible soups and fresh juices. The specialty of the house is dosia, filled with a variety of ingredients and served with savory homemade chutneys. You can also take home a choice of three or four gourmet dinners freshly packed daily. 1167 Magnolia Ave 415.461.6787 THE MELTING POT French Just across the street from the Larkspur Ferry terminal is a round red-brick haven for fondue fans. Share the “Big Night Out” feast featuring chef’s specialties, or design your own spread with cheese fondue, salad, choice of meat entrée and chocolate fondue

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dessert. 125 E. Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.461.6358, themeltingpot.com YANKEE PIER American This family-friendly casual clam shack is harbored in a quaint house built in 1924 as a private residence. Though known for beer-battered ﬁsh’n’ chips, clam chowder and tasty salads, Yankee Pier serves fresh seafood delivered daily from both coasts with special dishes by new chef Brian Beach. 286 Magnolia Ave, 415.924.7676, yankeepier.com

MILL VALLEY BUCKEYE ROADHOUSE American Oysters Bingo, baby back ribs and chili-lime “brick” chicken are a few of the satisfying, comfortfood-type menu items that have made this classic roadhouse a favorite since the ’30s. The warm dark-wooded bar with red leather booths is a popular spot for cocktails, conversations or a light meal. 15 Shoreline Hwy, 415.331.2600, buckeyeroadhouse.com BUNGALOW 44 American Much like sister restaurant Buckeye Roadhouse, Bungalow 44 offers a mean dose of homey carbo- and lipidladen dishes, such as the burger, fried chicken and trufﬂe fries, as well as a few lighter items. The bar is a neighborhood favorite, serving up tasty spirits and eye candy. 44 E. Blithedale Ave, 415.381.2500, bungalow44.com CACTUS CAFE AND TAQUERIA Mexican Recently under new management; the food is better than ever. They still offer the lunchtime bargain burrito, as well as ﬁsh tacos and Caesar salads with grilled chicken or shrimp. Be sure to opt for the diablo sauce on enchiladas and burritos. 393 Miller Ave, 415.388.8226 CAFE DEL SOUL California Beware of addiction. Once you stop in for the deliciously fresh Hummus

Yummus wrap, you’ll have to come back to sample the chipotle Sunrise Rice Bowl; then it will be the Thai It Up wrap with peanut sauce washed down with ginger limeade that brings you back, and so on. Casual lunch spot, great for takeout. 247 Shoreline Hwy, 415.388.1852, cafedelsoul.net DIPSEA CAFE Comfort One word: biscuits. This longtime breakfast spot has been serving up tasty pancakes and egg dishes with homemade biscuits since 1986. Try a biscuit with a poached egg, a biscuit with sausage –or just plain butter. Lunch specialties include BLTs and tuna melts and generous Cobb salads. Now serving dinner. 200 Shoreline Hway. 415.381.0298, dipseacafe.com EL PASEO French Keiko Takahashi, a prominent Tokyo chef known for her modern French cuisine, transports her flair to Mill Valley. With a cottagelike feeling, this fine dining restaurant serves meals that are nothing less than exquisite. Reservations recommended. 17 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0741, elpaseorestaurant.com FRANTOIO RISTORANTE ITALIANO Italian Known for its in-house olive press, superior olive oil and excellent Italian cuisine, this is a great location for large groups. Ask to sit in the press room for private parties. 152 Shoreline Hwy, 415.289.5777, frantoio.com INDIA PALACE Indian Known as “that great restaurant in the Travelodge,” India Palace is a favorite among the takeout crowd; however, eating on site is a treat too. 707 Redwood Hwy, 415.388.3350 JOE’S TACO LOUNGE Mexican A longtime local favorite, Joe’s serves up regular fare such as tasty fish tacos, burritos and enchiladas as well as more unusual items like Mexican pizza, tofu salad, and crab tostados. Colorful interior and (usually) quick service makes this a fun, easy stop. And if there are too many unsupervised kids for a peaceful meal, takeout is easy too. 382 Miller Ave, 415.383.8164 LA GINESTRA Italian A favorite family spot for over 30 years; getting a table or booth can take a while. While this old-school Italian eatery is known for traditional pastas, veal dishes, pizzas and dry martinis, the familiar wait staff is also part of the attraction. 127 Throckmorton Ave, 415.388.0224 LUCINDA’S MEXICAN FOOD Mexico Singled out for “best burrito” by the Pacific Sun in 2005, this is a prime place to grab lunch and head back to the office. 930 Redwood Hwy, 415.388.0754 MAMA’S ROYAL CAFE American No one should miss this fabulous kitsch-decorated spot. Appetizing crepes, brioche French toast and other breakfast treats are served all day; stay a while and try the sandwiches for lunch. 387 Miller Ave, 415.388.3261 PIAZZA D’ANGELO Italian It’s always a party at this long-standing hot spot. A great place to meet up with friends or bring the family to enjoy a fresh plate of pasta, zuppa di pesce, a selection of salads, pollo novello, or make some new friends at the fully stocked bar. 22 Miller Ave, 415.388.2000, piazzadangelo.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

T. 415-982-2213

PIATTI RISTORANTE AND BAR Italian Reopened, after an extensive remodel, with chef Chris Fernandez on board, leading the kitchen with a menu featuring seasonal food from local producers. The crudo and pizza is not to be missed. 625 Redwood Hwy, 415.380.2525, piatti.com RAIN TREE CAFÉ American/Homestyle In the newly remodeled Strawberry Village shopping center, wonderful American fare: soups, salads, burgers, sandwiches and gourmet crepes. Savor the Mill Valley Crepe: smoked salmon, capers, spinach, and Dijon in a fresh warm wrap. Breakfast is served all day. 610 Strawberry Village, 415.380.8886, caferaintree.com

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SMALL SHED FLATBREADS California As a slow food chef, Ged Robertson uses only local, mostly organic ingredients. Crowd favorites include the Mt Tamal-Pie, a delicious fresh salad atop a ﬂatbread. 17 Madrona St, 415.383.4200, smallshed.com THEP LELA Thai This jewel is tucked away in the back of the new Strawberry Village. Diners come for the tasty kee mao noodles, pad thai, fresh rolls and extensive bar menu. It’s also a great place for lunch. 615 Strawberry Village, 415.383.3444 VASCO Italian Whether you’re at a table, the bar or the back counter, you can expect an intimate and tasty dining experience at this one-room trattoria. Don’t miss trying one of the restaurant’s pasta dishes or thin crust pizzas. 106 Throckmorton Ave, 415.381.3343

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NOVATO BOCA STEAK & SEAFOOD South American An Argentinean-inspired menu in Novato, with much ado. House specialties include provolenta, gambas al ajillo, and empanadas, as well as hand-cut (grass- and grain-fed) steaks. 340 Ignacio Blvd, 415.883.0901, bocasteak.com CACTI GRILL American Grill A former bell tower church, the family-friendly restaurant now boasts a covered patio and serves a 21-day dry-aged steak and filet mignon enchiladas. 1200 Grant Ave, 415.898.2234, cactigrill.com CHRISTOPHER’S Italian/American Worth the effort to ﬁnd in Bel Marin Keys. Christopher, the owner, offers a casual menu of innovative Italiantype fare. 8 Commercial Blvd, 415.382.8488 WILDFOX American Perched on the hillside off Highway 101, this rustic mesquite grill offers a menu full of comfort food and drinks, like the smooth cosmos, and seafood risotto, with bits of butternut squash. In the mood for a cigar? The restaurant has an extensive list. 225 Alameda del Prado, 415.883.9125, wildfoxrestaurant.com

ROSS CAFE MARMALADE French This quaint oneroom coffeehouse is centrally situated near Ross Common. Get there early for the full selection of

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pastries to enjoy with fresh-squeezed orange juice. 22 Ross Common, 415.461.2205 MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS French This gem of a restaurant serves up locally farmed produce, wild and fresh seafood and free-range meats prepared with an artisan’s touch. The wine and beer list are extensive. 23 Ross Common, 415.925.9200, marcheauxﬂeursrestaurant.com TRATTORIA FRESCO Italian Every neighborhood deserves a one-room trattoria like this one. The service is friendly and the farmers’-market-fresh food is fabulous—especially the gnocchi. 13 Ross Common, 415.464.0915

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AVA California Chef Dan Baker, of Marché aux Fleurs in Ross, has another winner with AVA, which features a California-only wine list and a menu where nearly all the ingredients come from within 100 miles—if not the Marin County Farmers’ Market. The small menu includes seasonal flatbreads, pasta and six seasonal main dishes. 636 San Anselmo Ave, 415.453.3407 CUCINA RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR Italian Proprietor Jack Krietzman (of Pacific Heights’ Jackson Fillmore) has brought Milan to Marin with his 42-seat family restaurant. Relax with a glass of wine and have a slice from the to-die-for thin pizzas, topped with items like truffle oil and fontina cheese. 510 San Anselmo Ave, 415.454.2942 FORK California This intimate spot was awarded “Top Food in the Bay Area” by Zagat for 2007. Opt for the five-course tasting menu or seasonal à la carte options. The three-course special for $20 is available during the first seating. 198 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.453.9898, marinfork.com INSALATA’S Mediterranean Award-winning chef Heidi Insalata Krahling offers Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes prepared with local organic produce and artisan meats. 120 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.457.7700, insalatas.com TACO JANE’S Mexican Named after the owner’s mother, this casual but colorful place welcomes the whole family. Don’t miss out on Jane’s handmade agave margarita or griddled plantains with Jane’s crema. 21 Tamalpais Ave, 415.454.6562, tacojanes.com TEAPOD Tea Bar Enjoy free wi-fi at this new tea bar, which serves fresh steeped teas and modern infusions made from loose teas, purified water and organic ingredients. Indulge in boba tapioca pearl shakes and a special Himalayan goji berry elixir or choose to have your traditional loose tea hot or over ice. 701 San Anselmo Ave, 415.785.8537, teapod.biz

SAN RAFAEL CAFE GRATITUDE Raw The waiters might push the affirmations theme a bit too much, but the tasty (and healthy) food is worth it. Besides the knowledge you’re supporting local farmers and 126

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sustainable agriculture, the raw food and vegan samosas are hard to resist. Best to bring a group and sample lots of items on the menu. 2200 Fourth St, 415.824.4652, withthecurrent.com LE CHALET BASQUE Basque It won’t take long to realize owner and chef Roger Minhondo is from the Basque region of France. Specialties include lamb shank with white beans, garlic frog legs, tripe and a juicy sirloin steak. A full and friendly bar, patio dining and a loyal following make the drive to Santa Venetia worth it. 405 N. San Pedro Rd, 415.479.1070 MULBERRY STREET PIZZERIA Italian Chef Ted Rowe won first place in the Food Network Television Pizza Challenge with his Mushroom Lover’s Pizza—sautéed mushrooms in a creamy garlic sauce atop a fresh pizza crust. Located across from the Smith Ranch Road movie theaters, it’s a great place to grab dinner before or after a movie. 101 Smith Ranch Rd, 415.472.7272, mulberry-street-pizzeria.com SABOR OF SPAIN Spanish Named Best Tapas/ Small Dishes restaurant in Marin by the Paciﬁc Sun in 2006, this Spanish wine bar is a great place for a date or a big party. 1301 Fourth St, 415.457.8466, saborofspain.com SAN RAFAEL JOE’S Italian Guido and Theresa Farina are now running this Marin institution, which has been famous for serving up sophisticated yet casual Italian fare since 1947. 931 Fourth St, 415.456.2425, srjoes.com

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SEAFOOD PEDDLER Seafood A great place to seek out fresh seafood in a warm and inviting environment. Varieties of East and West Coast ﬁsh ﬂown in daily. Dine indoors or out, or better yet, rent out the banquet room for a party. 100 Yacht Club Dr, 415.460.6669, seafoodpeddler.com SOL FOOD Puerto Rican With south-of-theborder treats like yellow rice, beans, plantains and authentic Puerto Rican dishes, this tiny one-room eatery on Fourth Street just off Highway 101 can be hard to get into, but worth the wait. 732 Fourth St, and 901 Lincoln Ave, 415.451.4765

SAUSALITO ANGELINO RESTAURANT Italian Father-andson chefs Pasquale and Alfredo Ancona offer handmade pastas and seasonal antipasti at this authentic Italian restaurant. 621 Bridgeway, 415.331.5225, angelinorestaurant.com CAFFÉ DIVINO Tuscan Locals come for the tasty pastas and salads, as well as coffee drinks in a funky one-room setting. Free delivery in Sausalito. 37 Caledonia St, 415.331.9355, caffedivinosausalito.com FENG NIAN Chinese Busy at lunch and dinner, this spacious hangout has been a popular spot for wonton soup and potstickers for nearly two decades. For an indulgent treat order the Szechwan crispy calamari or honey-glazed walnut prawn. 2650 Bridgeway, 415.331.5300, fengnian.com

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GAYLORD INDIA Indian Rated a “Restaurant of Excellence” by Zagat, Gaylord’s new location in Sausalito also features million-dollar views of San Francisco and the bay. All the dishes including samosas, curries and tandoori are made with fresh local produce, seafood and artisan meats. 201 Bridgeway, 415.339.0172, gaylord.com KITTI’S PLACE Pan-Asian Watch out Comforts (aka the best chicken salad in town), Kitty’s serves up a delicious crunchy fresh chicken salad, as well as light tasty spring rolls too. Popular with the lunch and take-out dinner crowd. 3001 Bridgeway, 415.331.0390

With this new internet thing looking like it might be here to stay, I am way stoked and on board with riding this technology wave myself. This explains my new website at www.bryansfinefoods.com. If you have friends and family who live elsewhere and like the same beef you like, tell them they can now carve with me, Bryan. Pretty soon, I’ll be adding fish and other great products, too. Anyway, thanks in advance for sharing my new link. I am so totally amped. And please make sure they know that I promise not to bug, annoy, pester, bother, hassle, disturb, harass, badger, hound, T-off, P-off or in any way become a rock in their flip-flop with any unwanted e-mail stuff. No aggro here. Beef rocks. Come buy everything.

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LE GARAGE French Olivier Souvestre left his position at executive chef at San Francisco’s Chez Papa Bistro to open his new waterfront café in Sausalito with partner Bruno Denis. Le Garage features standard french bistro fare like croque monsier and brunch items like eggs benedict with an emphasis on fresh seafood and a large selection of charcuterie. 85 Liberty Ship Way, 415.332.5625 PA R A D I S E BAY American Enjoy the sun or dine under the stars at this waterfront restaurant. Locals say they come back for t h e o rg a n i c b e e f s a n d w i c h e s a n d f re s h Maine lobster clubs. 1200 Bridgeway, 415.331.3226, paradisebaysausalito.com POGGIO Italian A great place to celebrate a special occasion or simply enjoy a night out. Executive chef Peter McNee cooks up delicious Northern Italian cuisine using fresh and local ingredients, including produce from the nearby Poggio chef garden. 777 Bridgeway, 415.332.7771, poggiotratoria.com SAYLOR’S RESTAURANT AND BAR California/ Mexican Owner and chef Sean Saylor has created a new menu, keeping some traditional favorites and has moved the restaurant to a new location. The large menu is impressive but the bar’s selection of over 100 tequilas is hard to beat. 2009 Bridgeway, 415.332.1512, saylorsrestaurantandbar.com SCOMA’S Seafood Whether it’s for the view of San Francisco or the classic historical background, visitors flock to this location for a romantic setting. The array of fresh seafood and meat dishes are appetizing as the Italian pasta dishes. 588 Bridgeway, 415.332.9551, scomassausalito.com SUSHI RAN Japanese Fresh, innovative small plates are just big enough to share, the traditional sushi is melt-in-your-mouth good and the wine, cocktail and sake lists keep the pickiest barﬂy well satisﬁed. Even the prices don’t deter the herd of sushi enthusiasts, who line up nightly to partake; reservations required in main room. 107 Caledonia St, 415.332.3620, sushiran.com WELLINGTON’S California British transport Jeremy John and his wife, Jill, have created an expansive (2,400-square-foot) space wine bar with a homey feel, board games, views of the bay and a worldly cellar featuring affordable bottles and special reserves. The menu features wines by

the glass for $5 to $20 and tasting ﬂights of any three wines for $12. 300 Turney St, 415.331.9463, wellingtonswine.com WINSHIPS RESTAURANT American The morethan-four-decades-old nautical-themed restaurant is luring locals and tourists with hearty breakfasts and lunch options like tender fried calamari, clam strips, mussels and a giant prawn cocktail. 670 Bridgeway, 415.332.1454, winships.com

TIBURON THE CAPRICE California Expansive Angel Island and San Francisco skyline views and an intimate atmosphere make this waterfront restaurant a top pick for romance. Beyond these attractions, locals come for the food including a three-to-ﬁve-course menu created by executive chef Gregg Sessler, who according to Michael Bauer “has crafted a menu that can stand up to the big boys.” 2000 Paradise Dr., 415.435.3400, thecaprice.com COTTAGE EATERY California This one-room recently remodeled, eatery is the latest restaurant addition to Tiburon’s Ark Row. Having their place opened to rave reviews, owners Edward Carew and Jennifer Rebman, both formerly of New York (each with stints cooking at Gramercy Tavern) are attracting regulars with seasonal entrees like grilled branzino served with boulanger potatoes, watercress and a taggiasca olive vinaigrette and crispy suckling pig with Umbrian lentils, braised romaine, tomato and saba. 114 Main St, 415.789.5636, thecottageeatery.com GINZA Japanese The old Tiburon Tommie’s space on Main Street has been buffed and polished and reopened as a sleek, upscale sushi spot with the famous waterfront San Francisco views. This intimate setting offers menu items like sliced yellowtail, avocado, radish sprout, tobiko and spicy ponzu sauce as well as a variety of tempura and terriyaki dishes. 41 Main St, 415.789.5123, ginzasushi-tiburon.com GUAYMAS Mexican Situated right next to the Tiburon ferry terminal on the waterfront. The touch-it-you’re-so-close city views and outdoor seating makes it a great place to bring visitors on a warm summer night. Menu includes specialties like puerco macho—pork loin chop with grilled plantain, topped with an ancho chile, garlic and onion sauce. 5 Main St, 415.435.6300, guaymasrestaurant.com MILANO Italian Located in the Cove Shopping Center, this family-owned neighborhood spot is known for its pasta and friendly service. A good place to take the kids—or catering option for your next birthday party. Locals say the gorgonzola penne is not to be missed. 1 Blackfield Dr, 415.388.9100 ROONEY’S CAFÉ & GRILL American If you’re old enough to remember Cheers on prime time, this is your dinner spot. There’s not a long bar, nor a bartender named Sam (he’s across the street); however, there is an undeniable neighborhood

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SAM’S ANCHOR CAFE American Everyone knows Sam’s deck is the prime spot for brunch on a lazy sunny Sunday, and its bar is the town’s historic watering hole, but Sam’s is also a great place for lunch or dinner. Enjoy trans-fat-free calamari, fresh ﬁsh, seasonal salads and pastas. 27 Main St, 415.435.4527, samscafe.com SERVINO RISTORANTE Italian With people like Warren Buffett and Bill Gates raving about his pizza, Angelo Servino is doing something right. Some people come for the spacious and popular bar; some people come for the great food and friendly service; the titans of industry, it seems, opt for the pepperoni. Spacious bar, and weekend music is also a big draw. 9 Main St, 415.435.2676, servino.com

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SWEDEN HOUSE BAKERY Swedish A cozy spot and local favorite, the blue storefront opens into bay front windows with sweeping views of Racoon Straits and Angel Island. The menu is straight from Stockholm with Swedish and Danish pastries in the morning and open-faced sandwiches, Swedish meatloaf and light salads for lunch. 35 Main St, 415.435.9767

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THREE DEGREES California Opt for the outside patio, white tablecloths in the dining room, or the swank modern setting of the bar, and enjoy the local, seasonal menu options like grilled Niman Ranch New York “cowboy” strip steak or seasonal risotto. 1651 Tiburon Blvd, 415.435.5996, threedegreesrestaurant.com

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WEST MARIN DRAKES BEACH CAFE Local If you’re OK with the long drive, you can’t beat the view and the fresh local ingredients used to make the burgers, salads and soups at this casual spot (Inverness). Walk on the beach after lunch. 1 Drakes Beach Rd, 415.669.1297, drakesbeachcafe.com OLEMA INN California One of the most charming settings around, this inn and restaurant is a great destination lunch spot for a Sunday drive, or dinner Wednesday through Sunday. The menu includes imaginative combinations using regional and organic greens (Olema). 10000 Sir Francis Drake Blvd, 415.663.9559, theolemainn.com PARKSIDE CAFE American Most people know it as the ultimate breakfast spot (think Guatemalan scramble or wafﬂe with blood orange-strawberry compote and whipped cream, alfresco) but lunch and dinners are great here too. Choose from an array of organic locally grown produce and artisan meats and wild seafood (Stinson). 43 Arenal Ave, 415.868.1272, parksidecafe.com PINE CONE DINER American Just off the main road, Joannie Kwit has re-created the ultimate neighborhood diner. Vintage china and homemade curtains complement the eclectic but homey menu featuring local fare (Point Reyes Station). 60 Fourth St, 415.663.1536, pineconediner.com MARINMAGAZINE.COM

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HOMESTEAD VALLEY There’s nothing like it BY JIM WOOD

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DO YOU KNOW WHERE MILL VALLEY’S 2 A.M. CLUB IS? How about

Whole Foods on Miller Avenue? “If you can locate either one of those spots,” says Charles “Chuck” Oldenburg, “you know where Homestead Valley is—it’s the valley behind both places.” Or to put it another way: “Homestead Valley is between Mill Valley and Tam Valley.” By Oldenburg’s best estimate, the community has 1,100 residences housing 2,500 residents; “no one knows for sure.” Yet no one knows better than Oldenburg. He and wife Christina have lived in the same home on Montford Avenue for 45 years, and Chuck is looked on as the community’s historian. So if you want to know how the community got its name, ask him. “In 1866, Samuel Throckmorton, one of Marin’s original landowners, built a hunting lodge near Miller Avenue,” Oldenburg recounts. “He named it the Homestead, and over time, the surrounding area became known as Homestead Valley.” Another community stalwart, freelance writer Susan “Suz” Lipman, not only resides in Homestead Valley but works there, as does husband Michael “Lippy” Lipman, an animator of children’s media. “We’ve lived here for 13 years,” she says. “We both have studios in our home.” The Lipmans, who have a 12-year-old daughter, Anna, like the community for its physical beauty—rare for an area so close to schools and shopping—and the friendly neighbors, which together make for an atmosphere both active and serene. “After spending the day in front of a computer screen,” Lippy says, “I’ll go for a long bike ride, and I enjoy waving to friends, then getting lost in the area’s timelessness.” A frequent destination of those rides is the Homestead Valley Community Center, with its clubhouse, pool and acre of grassland locals refer to as “the Meadow.” Center director Les Lizama, who clearly loves the job (“I can’t believe I get paid for doing this”), manages a calendar that includes a Fourth of July picnic and parade (“kids on bikes, guys on a fire engine, the works”), Halloween and holiday parties, Mozart on the Meadow summer gatherings and a long list of homeowner meetings, election-day voting, potluck dinners and “Get Ready” emergency response meetings. “We’ve divided Homestead Valley into 69 blocks with 10 to 15 homes per block,” he says. “We’re not fully recruited yet, but the community wants to be independent, self-reliant.” Funding for the Homestead Valley

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Community Association comes in part from county taxes collected for

gold’ to $75 each—or $98 if you wanted a platform tent on your prop-

the Homestead Valley Sanitation District.

erty,” says realtor Kat Ryan, a 24-year Homestead Valley resident work-

Another gathering spot is Stolte Grove, a picturesque stand of red-

ing with the Mill Valley/Strawberry office of Frank Howard Allen. Then

woods with Reed Creek running through it and picnic tables, barbecue

came the Great Depression, and now, according to Ryan, there are prob-

stands and a performing stage nearby. Adjacent to the grove is Three

ably 25 small cabins dotting the canyon.

Groves, a more formal garden area dating back over a century and

“Of all the Homestead Valley sales I’ve made, the most unusual one

named for its profusion of three clusters of trees—redwood, oak and

was four years ago—and for only $329,000,” she adds. “It was a charm-

buckeye. Both Stolte and Three Groves are located where Montford and

ing 370-square-foot cottage on a nearly 10,000-square-foot lot covered

LaVerne Avenues come together to form a favorite walking destination

with redwoods. However, it was a really steep hillside lot and reachable

known as “The Loop.” Other local landmarks include the highly regard-

only by climbing 165 stairs.”

ed Marin Horizon School, which serves preschool through eighth grade;

Current Homestead Valley properties range from a two-unit fixer-up-

the site of the Montford Avenue home (no longer standing) where Jack

per listed at $795,000 to a seven-bedroom recently redone estate with

Kerouac and Beat poet Gary Snyder supposedly wrote The Dharma

pool and stunning bay views for just over $10 million. “Our highest sale

Bums; and what’s now generally referred to as Tamalpais Canyon, which

recorded to date was around $5 million for a six-bedroom overlooking

decades ago was called Camp Tamalpais.

the valley on more than three acres,” Ryan says. But there is no “typical”

“In the early 1900s, Camp Tamalpais was 11 acres divided into 137 tiny lots that sold, according to their deeds, for anywhere from ‘$10 in

138

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AUGUST 2008

home in Homestead Valley, she points out. “Just like there’s nothing typical about this community. Homestead Valley is a one-of-a-kind.”

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

No, You Take the House.

Forecast Your Financial Future

VISION REAL ESTATE ONE OF THE FASTEST GROWING COMPANIES IN MARIN

IS PLEASED TO ANNOUNCE THE OPENING OF

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Vision Real Estate Tiburon Associates

Victor Fisher Co-Founder / Realtor 415.720.6100 victor@visionrealtors.com

Abbi K. Fox Realtor 415.515.8777 afox@visionrealtors.com

Karen Z. Hardesty Principal / Broker Associate 415.265.3344 kzhardesty@visionrealtors.com

Chelsea E. Hardesty Principal / Realtor 415.300.6881 chardesty@visionrealtors.com

VISION REAL ESTATE IS ALSO PROUD TO ANNOUNCE THAT VIRGINIA BRUNINI REAL ESTATE HAS JOINED FORCES WITH VISION Virginia Brunini Let me hand you the keys to this marvelous Marin experience Virginia has been a Tiburon resident and homeowner since 1966. She entered real estate in 1979 as a Broker specializing in commercial-investment properties. Since 1987 she has devoted her attention to residential sales in Tiburon-Belvedere. She holds the professional designations of Certified Residential Specialist (CRS) and Seniors Real Estate Specialist (SRES) awarded by the National Association of Realtors®. She was also named “Realtor of the Year” by the Marin Association of Realtors in 1999. 415.435.0848 • vamarin@jps.net Marin

Sonoma

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www.visionrealestate.com

Today’s market demands a Realtor and a company with VISION

Abbi K. Fox Realtor 415.515.8777 • afox@visionrealtors.com Seeing Beyond the Obvious

Navigating the nuances of Marin…

CONSISTENT RESULTS

John Zeiter Broker Associate / Realtor 415.720.1515 • jzeiter@visionrealtors.com

Marin

Sonoma

San Francisco

www.visionrealestate.com

It’s All About Lifestyle… This terrific one-level, 3-bedroom, 2-bath home in Larkspur’s desirable Hillview neighborhood is the one you have been waiting for! The open and inviting floor plan is conducive to indoor/outdoor living and provides the perfect setting for a casual California lifestyle. The kitchen has been remodeled recently and opens to a spacious dining area, living room and family room accented by sliding doors leading to a large, flat lawn with beautifully landscaped gardens. Out the back gate you will discover a path leading to trails and the village of Larkspur with its wonderful restaurants and boutiques. A magnificent view of Mt. Tamalpais greets you as you walk out your front door. www.138Harvard.com 138 Harvard Drive, Larkspur • $1,575,000

Chelsea E. Hardesty • Realtor / Principal 415.300.6881 • chardesty@visionrealtors.com www.ChelseaEHardesty.com

Redefining Service in Real Estate Marin

Sonoma

San Francisco

www.visionrealestate.com

It’s All About Lifestyle… Do you love to entertain and want the space in which to do so both lavishly and casually? Is your worst nightmare the thought of having to own a lawnmower and yet you want enough space around you to insure your privacy? Do you love to travel and come home to a place that makes you feel as if you are still on vacation? If your answer to these questions is “yes” then this stunning home situated in one of Marin’s most desirable neighborhoods is for you! Out your front door you will find miles of hiking trails dotted with view- oriented picnic spots. Close to the village of Tiburon and all it has to offer. Open the front door and know you have arrived! 90 Gilmartin Drive, Tiburon • $4,295,000

Karen Z. Hardesty • Broker Associate / Principal 415.265.3344 • kzhardesty@visionrealtors.com

Responding to the Real Estate needs of Marin County since 1982. Karen provides Competence You Can Count On! Marin

Sonoma

San Francisco

www.visionrealestate.com

SAUSALITO CONTEMPORARY VIEW HOME This visually stunning three bedroom, three and a half bath home is a modern extravagance of sophisticated design overlooking the San Francisco City skyline and the Bay. With breathtaking views from every room, this sensual space seamlessly combines stainless steel, wood and concrete with walls of glass, creating a dramatic palette for entertaining. Open floor plan with two seating areas, one with stainless steel wood-burning fireplace, a dining area and kitchen. Only minutes from the Golden Gate Bridge, this technically sleek home is a tranquil retreat in the chic village town of Sausalito. Built with quality construction and thorough attention to detail, creating an exceptional lifestyle home.

Offered at: $3,995,000 View more photos at: www.503SausalitoBlvd.com

First Marin Realty

Presented by:

To View More Luxury Homes, Please Visit: www.MarinNewHomes.com

MARCINE ENGEL 415.380.4366 marcine@firstmarin.com

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Go to www.JimmyMarin.com CURRENT LISTINGS Check out Jimmy’s site daily for his latest listings and for free access to Clean Offer and its MLS search. NEWSLETTER Be sure to keep up-to-date and informed by reading Jimmy’s newsletter, filled with current information and statistics on the real estate market. TAM CAM Get breathtaking views LIVE from our exclusive Tam Cam. See the Bay Bridge, San Francisco, Pacific Heights, Sausalito, Mill Valley, and a straight-on shot of Mt. Tam with Corte Madera’s Christmas Tree Hill in the foreground.

Jimmy Wanninger | TEL 415.990.8990 24/7 | www.JimmyMarin.com

Magnificent Mill Valley! Set atop a stunning South facing lot with views of the hills

home is located within the desirable Boyle Park neighbor-

of Mill Valley and beyond, lies 15 Euterpe Street. This beauti-

hood, just a short walk from downtown Mill Valley, and a

ful 4 bedroom, 3.5 bath home features oak hardwood floor-

short drive from San Francisco, and Wine Country!

ing, granite counters, designer colors, and a custom chef’s kitchen with professional appliances. The landscaped ter-

For a private viewing of this magnificent home, please call

raced lawns, flagstone patio and inviting gardens make this

Jimmy at 415.990.8990. Visit www.JimmyMarin.com to view all

a suitable home for outdoor and indoor entertaining. This

of Jimmy’s current listings.

Jimmy Wanninger | TEL 415.990.8990 24/7 | www.JimmyMarin.com

Belvedere

Tiburon

Mill Valley

$9,950,000

$7,500,000

$4,890,000

5Bd/6.5Ba Belvedere Island waterfront home w/80 ft pier with beach rights, 4,000 sq ft deck. Views and privacy. Melissa Bradley (415) 531-3567

4Bd/3.5Ba Tiburon home is an elegant example of modern architecture. Spectacular views! Bruce Berlinger (415) 269-1666

Luxury Property in coveted neighborhood 5Bd/5.5Ba located above the MV Golf course and Tennis club. Stacey Lamirand (415) 215-4254

Sausalito

Greenbrae

$2,999,999

$2,699,000

$1,719,000

Simply Stunning Sausalito home. 4Bd/5Ba Main House + Separate Huge Studio + Separate Apt. VALUE HERE! Mona Skyler (415) 290-6662

Dramatic architecture, fabulous lot, stunning views, desirable location! Minutes to San Francisco! Deborah Solvason (415) 519-3555

Amazing 5Bd/4Ba home (w/bonus room + office). Located in the flats of Greenbrae on over a 1/4 acre level lot!

San Rafael

Kentfield

Melissa Bradley

(415) 531-3567

$1,675,000

$1,600,000

$1,550,000

Tucked away on a tree lined driveway, this 4Bd/3.5Ba, nearly 3,000 sq ft home is situated on approx. 1.35 acres. Lorraine Gemigniani (415) 246-8611

This approx. 2,800 square foot 3Bd plus office, 4Ba home is situated on nearly one acre of land. Tam views. Melissa Bradley (415) 531-3567

You can’t ask for a better location! Period details make this a special 5Bd/4Ba home. FLAT lot with level lawn, mature trees.

San Anselmo

Tiburon

Mill Valley

$1,595,000

$1,300,000

Extensively remodeled 4Bd/2.5Ba Craftsman, amazing attention to detail. On approx. 1/2 acre of natural landscaping.

This tri-level home features 2Bd plus loft, 2Ba and hardwood floors. Fantastic views of San Francisco and the Bay. Lyndasue Johnson (415) 515-7010

Melissa Bradley

(415) 531-3567

Melissa Bradley

(415) 531-3567

$1,295,000 4Bd/3Ba beautiful bay view home w/ in-law set up on approx. 13,875 sq ft lot. Remodeled with high end amenities.

Lou Broderick

Please visit us at: www.BradleyRealEstate.com

(415) 297-3575

CURRENTLY LISTED

110 Legend, San Anselmo $1,250,000 4Bd/2.5 Ba. approx. 1/2 acre lot

1 Via San Fernando, Tiburon $1,850,000 4 Bd/2 Ba. Sunny approx. 1/3 acre lot

870 Meadowsweet, Corte Madera $769,000 2Bd/2.5 Ba. Water Views

PENDING SALES

336 Larkspur Plaza Dr., Larkspur 7 Mountain View, Mill Valley $500,000 $750,000

379 Marin Ave., Mill Valley $739,000

RECENTLY CLOSED

119 Baltimore, Corte Madera $810,000

33 Rose Ave., Mill Valley $1,770,000

1 Sunrise Lane, Mill Valley $899,000

Heidi Ellyn & Pat Skipper Heidi Ellyn, Esq. #1 Top Producer 2004, 2006 & 2007

415-786-6807

Pat Skipper 415-823-3099

Ready to sell? Make sure you put Heidi & Pat’s Top-Producing marketing plan, excellent negotiating skills and expert home preparation to work for you.

Free staging credits so your home looks its best & sells fast!

Decker Bullock Sotheby’s International Realty is pleased to announce the assimilation of, and association with, David Kirchhoff Fine Homes, located at 1620 Tiburon Boulevard, downtown Tiburon. Please visit us at our new 3,400 square foot facility directly across from the Bank of America building. For the best advice and assistance available in the residential real estate marketplace, Decker Bullock Sotheby’s International Realty is at your service. Belvedere-Tiburon Office (415) 435-0500 Southern Marin Office

(415) 381-7300

Ross Valley Office

(415) 461-2500

BELVEDERE TIBURON OFFICE: SOUTHERN MARIN OFFICE: ROSS VALLEY OFFICE:

415.435.0500 415.381.7300 415.461.2500

deckerbullocksir.com

© MMVI Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Les Bords de l’Epte a Giverny, used with permission. Sotheby’s International Realty® is a licensed trademark to Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates, Inc. An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity . Each Office Is Independently Owned And Operated, Except Offices Owned And Operated By NRT Incorporated.

Kimberly Airey

Craig Jackson

Lydia Sarkissian

Max Applegarth

Parker Jones

Cindy Shelton

Bill Bullock

Vivian Kaufman

Melissa Crawford

David Kirchhoff

Olivia Decker

Tammy Wilks Kornfeld

Dave DuPont

Lynn Lubbock

Craig Swanson Sherry Ramzi Kouros Tavakoli Cheryl Wheeler

Jaime DuPont

Hugh Macmillan

Alix Fagersten

Jenny Mattson

Colleen Fitzpatrick

Penny Wright Mulligan

Corey Graham

Elizabeth Nicholson

Patricia Scott Winslow

Tim Hill

Karen Plastiras

Robert Young

BELVEDERE TIBURON OFFICE: SOUTHERN MARIN OFFICE: ROSS VALLEY OFFICE:

Georgia Wien Isobel Wiener

415.435.0500 415.381.7300 415.461.2500

deckerbullocksir.com

Dramatic Architectural Contemporary Home Situated in a quintessential Mill Valley setting and surrounded by mature nature, this stunning brand new three bedroom plus office, two and one half bath contemporary home appears the very essence of perfection. Sleek lines, masterful architecture, bold interiors and natural surroundings all blend to make a universal appeal to the senses. Interior features include six foot wide plank white oak floors throughout the entry, office, and great room, 11 foot ceilings, custom European style kitchen with self-closing cherry wood cabinetry, professional stainless steel appliances, Italian tiles, limestone countertops, and nickel hardware. The master suite on the upper level with its own private deck enjoys spectacular views of the surrounding hills and landscaped yard, with patio and grassy area. The spacious, open and airy floor plan is perfect for comfortable living and entertaining. Custom colors accent the warm interiors and provide a unique environment for the most discriminating buyer. This is a special property not to be missed! Offered at $2,275,000

For more information and gallery of photos, visit: www.246molino.com SHERRY RAMZI 415.902.7344 s.ramzi@deckerbullocksir.com www.marinexclusivehomes.com

Gated Estate Just Completed - Belvedere’s Gold Coast This 6 bedroom, 10 bath Contemporary Residence, by builder/designer Mitch Wiener, is over 11,000+ sq. ft. plus 5,000 sq. ft. (approx) of stone terraces overlooking Bridge-to-Bridge San Francisco skyline views. Relax on your lawn listening to the waves lapping against the shore. Enjoy the chef’s kitchen, family room, breakfast room, living room, and dining room which all open to a huge expanse of sunny terraces overlooking the bay. Spacious media room/home theatre off the family room. Wine cellar ideally located off the living room. Master bedroom suite with onyx bath opens to a private balcony for morning coffee. In the tradition of a small European hotel, this home boasts its own health club/spa including: Indoor 60 ft, 2 lane salt water lap pool, commercial steam room, dry sauna, weight lifting area, spa, and full kitchen for entertaining. Separate Guest Suites with private entrance. Sweeping driveway with parking galore. 3 car garage. All this and more in Belvedere’s premier location. Visit BestAddressBelvedere.com Offered at $27,000,000

ISOBEL WIENER 415.730.5556 www.isobelwiener.com

Decker Bullock Sotheby’s International Realty is pleased to announce that Corey Graham has joined our Southern Marin office. Corey’s expertise includes residential, income and investment properties. Licensed in both California and Idaho she can help you find the right property for your needs. Corey Graham 415.971.0167 • c.graham@deckerbullocksir.com www.deckerbullocksir.com

Penny Wright-Mulligan – Waterfront Property Specialist

New Lease Fabulous waterfront home with deep-water dock. 3 bedrooms, 2 baths. Flat neighborhood. Call for pricing information.

PENNY WRIGHT-MULLIGAN 415.601.8191 p.mulligan@deckerbullocksir.com www.pennywrightmulligan.com

Coming Soon Tiburon condominium. 1 bedroom, 1 1/2 baths. Call for details.

ROSS JEWEL - Rare beauty with timeless grace and the luxuries of contemporary style. In the spirit of San Francisco, this remodeled, four bedroom, four and one-half bath traditional home has a very sought-after floor plan; all the bedrooms are on the same level, and the yard is accessed from the main level. Features include: Oak hardwood floors and beautiful molding; formal living room with high ceilings, fireplace with carved mantel; formal dining room with high ceilings; gourmet kitchen with butler’s pantry and eat-in area, granite slab counters, custom cabinetry, limestone floors and double French doors opening to the level backyard; family room located adjacent to the kitchen with limestone floors; romantic master suite with built-in cabinets; and limestone master bath with radiant heat floor and steam shower. The two-car garage is currently being used as a recreation room. Security system, separate workshop. Close to both the downtowns of Ross and San Anselmo, hiking, biking, shopping and restaurants.

Offered for $2,595,000

For more information and photographs, please visit: www.MarilynRich.com. Marilyn Rich

415.464.3741

Just a few minutes north of the Golden Gate, yet a million miles away, is Seadrift at Stinson Beach. For over 30 years, Seadrift Company has been the expert in Real Estate sales and premium vacation rentals in Stinson Beach and the private gated community of Seadrift. Call us today to reserve your beach house... for a week, a summer or a lifetime.

VIEW OUR PROPERTIES ONLINE AT WWW . SEADRIFTREALTY . COM AND CALL US AT 415.868.1791

President, Marin Women’s Council of Realtors

91 Dipsea Road Stinson Beach

Judy LeMarr FRANK HOWARD ALLEN REALTORS 415-380-4642 Judy@MarinDreamHome.com www.MarinDreamHome.com • 3 Bedrooms/3 Baths • Two Decks and Patio • Attached 2-car Garage w/ Workshop • Serene Lagoon Setting with Private Dock • Gated Community 45 Minutes from SF www.91Dipsea.com

Experience

Service

Results

Offered at $2,250,000 160

MARIN AUGUST 2008

MARINMAGAZINE.COM

P R I VAT E M O R TG A G E B A N K I N G

Focused expertise. Insightful service. When you work with Wells Fargo Private Mortgage Banker Steve Vella, you have the added confidence that only comes from working with a local professional and a well-capitalized, diversified financial services company. Steve has the knowledge and resources to lend in all 50 states and provide costeffective financing for your purchase or refinance needs regarding a: QPrimary residence, second home vacation retreat or investment property QWealth-management strategy for a complex income and asset profile Experience a solutions-driven difference with a professional.

Steve Vella • Private Mortgage Banker 770 Tamalpais Dr, Suite 220 • Corte Madera, CA 94925 415-945-2322 Direct • 866-493-7603 eFax Steven.vella@wellsfargo.com

Stunning New Contemporary

50 Sunny Oaks, San Rafael Situated on almost one acre, this gated very private single level home enjoys all day sun with views from every room. Remodeled throughout the gorgeous open kitchen and great room allows for easy entertaining. The home offers a modern floor plan with high ceilings and hardwood floors throughout. The stunning master suite includes his and her closets with a spa like bath. Enormous decks surround the property making for extraordinary outdoor living. Select Features: • Just remodeled • 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms • Open kitchen w/great room, Dacor stainless steel appliances • Master suite w/spa like bath • 2 artist studios/playrooms • 2 car oversized garage, gated, private, quiet • Air conditioned. Offered at $1,465,000

J.J. Davis 415.246.7622 jdavis@fhallen.com

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D I A LO GUE

MICHAEL KNIGHT

What do you value every day? Family, friends, the environment. What is your personal idea of luxury? Time. What person has influenced you the most? Two professors have certainly had a profound influence on the direction of my professional life: Dr. Cameron Pauline at Willamette University, who took an interest in a lost and wandering undergraduate and set me on my way to where I am now. Dr. Miyeko Murase at Columbia University, who supported and mentored me through graduate school and forced me to finish. What has been the most fulfilling moment in your work? There are many: completing a major project like the upcoming exhibition Power and Glory: Court Arts of China’s Ming Dynasty; getting someone hooked on collecting at a serious level; private

BY M I M I TOW L E

Looking for a bit of cultural enrichment this summer? Thanks

moments with great works of art.

to Strawberry resident Michael Knight, never-been-viewed treasures of the Ming

dynasty (1368-1644) are on display through September at the Asian Art Museum. As the museum’s senior curator of Chinese art and director of strategic programs and partnership, Knight co-curated Power and Glory: Court Arts of China’s Ming Dynasty. Ming porcelains, metalwork and lacquerware are renowned for their quality and value—remember the media fanfare, back in 2006, about the $10.13

What’s your desert-island favorite book or album? I read to my two boys every night (ages 8 and 12). Cannot say that I have a favorite book, but I am enjoying reading all kinds of interesting books checked out from the Tiburon public library— a great resource, by the way.

million world-record selling price for a rare underglaze copper-red Ming dynasty vase? While that piece won’t be there, many other valuable ones will. Obtaining these pricey and rare pieces was no easy task; Knight spent months

What’s your favorite place to unwind? On my bicycle somewhere in West Marin or in my garden.

negotiating with the Chinese government to borrow them from three different institutions. Has all the hard work been worth the time taken away from tossing the

Do you have a favorite Marin view? Sunrise over

baseball with his two boys? “Absolutely,” he says. “We hope that visitors of all ages

San Francisco from the Headlands.

will learn more through this exhibition about the artistic and cultural traditions of one of China’s most celebrated dynasties.”

What do you like about yourself? I am lucky to be

You could live anywhere. Why Marin? Good schools, great place to raise chil-

to garden, build houses, restore cars, create furniture,

dren, an enjoyable commute by bicycle to S.F.

bicycle, hike, play with my boys and make serious contributions to my field of study.

What makes you happy in Marin? Marin is a great place to raise children. Nothing beats watching my boys play ball at one of the fields in Marin.

How do you want to be remembered? For my passion and dedication to the things I undertake,

What bothers you here? Cold, foggy, windy summer days. 162

MARIN AUGUST 2008

be they at work, at home or with my family. MARINMAGAZINE.COM

PHOTO: BARBA RA RIES

blessed with physical and mental gifts that allow me

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