20/20 Europe Eyewear March 2018 Edition

NEXT GENERATION In detail Kaleos Eyehunters ////////////// Interview Hoffmann Natural Eyewear Brand Profile Gold & Wood ////////////////// Lenses & Technology Polyray 20/20 europe a Jobson publication nr. 2/2018 – March – Year XXIX 20Eventi Srl Unipersonale

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RENÉ LACOSTE TIMES

NOVAK DJOKOVIC

Introducing NOVAK DJOKOVIC Collection

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CONTRIBUTORS

Corso Porta Nuova 20 37122 Verona VR - Italy

Joan Grady Ester Alonso Zoe Cosby Simon Jones

20/20 EUROPE

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Matilde Sometti

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Matilde Sometti

20eventi Srl Unipersonale Via Europa Unita 1A/4 37011 Bardolino VR - Italy ph. +39 045 2428284 info@20eventi.com EDITOR IN CHIEF

Clodagh Norton

clodagh@20eventi.com EDITORIAL OFFICE Catherine Wheel Farmhouse, Sand Lane, Frittenden, Kent TN17 2BA - UK

Claudia Broglia

ART DIRECTION

Andrea Biondi // Lavinia andreabiondi.it

ph. +39 340 7553196 claudia@20eventi.com USA ADVERTISING SALES DIRECTOR

Dennis Murphy

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Lavinia

laviniastyle.com

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Eyewear SIGMUND & CARL – neubau eyewear

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At 20/20 Europe we use a lot of paper.

We are proud to use FSC® certified paper only, encouraging manufacturers to seek out wood suppliers that work to protect habitat and avoid wildlife harming.

Registrazione presso il Tribunale di Verona 2.064 del 15.03.2016

Erratum: nr. 1/2018 January issue: we apologise for the incorrect frame name on page 29 – the frame labelled ‘Manu’ is Felix by neubau.

On page 46, an “I” was omitted in the word Vision in the title.

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686 N U D E / 688 N U D E | M O D O.C O M

MIDO | DESIGN LAB | STAND P11-R14

WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE

TRENDS, LAUNCHES AND SHOW HIGHLIGHTS

INTERVIEW

Hoffmann Natural Eyewear

NEXT GENERATION NAMES TO WATCH 2018

IN DETAIL

KALEOS EYEHUNTERS

A young brand’s success story

EVENTS The latest updates

BRAND PROFILE

20/20 Europe Visits Gold & Wood, Luxembourg

FASHION

In the artist’s studio

TRENDS

Candy Colour

RETAILING

Supporting A Cause

DESIGNER LIFE

Nina Mûr

EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY 10

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EDITOR’S COMMENT

NAMES TO WATCH Image: Emily Parton

And big new colour trends!

Clodagh Norton Editor in chief clodagh@20eventi.com

Our NEXT GENERATION issue for March is a celebration of future eyewear design, with some pointers on the young names to watch… although we have had to edit carefully, there are so many!

We are following the journeys of these fresh young independent labels closely, as some see a rate of growth, with distribution through fashion and optical retail, that is truly impressive.

An example is Kaleos Eyehunters, a Barcelona brand that Matilde and I first visited in 2015, when they had just begun and were working out of a tiny space inside another company. Today their eye-catching sunglasses are available at fashion retailers like Barneys, and they have an optical retail network which is building rapidly, from Europe to Australia. Read about the brand in our In Detail section.

“Confidence is definitely building when it comes to our choices in eyewear colours, and the fresh palette for 2018 pushes new opportunities…”

The issue also provides an overview of the moods and movements that are shaping the future of eyewear: notes on colour trends, which are always fascinating as they evolve so quickly. Pastels are big news and we have focused on the key ones, pink and purple. But there’s also a story of vibrant, primary colours, in line with the catwalk trends.

Confidence is definitely building when it comes to our choices in eyewear colours, and the fresh palette for 2018 pushes new opportunities for cutting-edge combinations and tone-on-tone effects that customers will love.

For me, the Spring represents travel, trends and new discoveries. The international fair season is underway and we are eagerly awaiting the latest innovations in the industry for 2018 and beyond. The future is just around the corner, and we can’t wait to find out more.

The 20/20 Europe team wishes you a fantastic show season. See you in Milan, Copenhagen and NYC! Check our website www.2020europe.com for the latest news and updates. We are expanding our online content in line with your requests.

For regular updates join us on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook. www.2020europe.com

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www.ic-berlin.de

No pitch, just buy our glasses | Frances J. wears ‘Zephyr’

/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

JUST AROUND THE CORNER Trends, campaigns and an eye on the latest launches…

MODO //

Unmistakable lightness //

A new campaign from MODO celebrates the brand’s concept of minimalism and lightness in the aesthetics of each unique eyewear style. The concept, based on a holistic approach, is developed through the theme of origami, where colour and “poetic” references contribute to the story behind each product line.

Paper-Thin Ultra MODO’s extensive series of optical and sun collections includes Paper-Thin Ultra. Ultra TR90 pushes the limits of innovation, and the result is some of the lightest eyewear in the world. Each frame’s colorful ultra-thin 1.6 mm polyamide rim insert adds a

splash of colour and combines design and function for stylish results. The rim’s ingenious construction allows for regular lens insertion on a 0.6 mm thick Beta Titanium eye wire.

For Spring/Summer 18, the Ultra collection sees the addition of two new optical shapes, each featuring the latest innovation - screwless hinges. The unisex high-bridge pantos 4416 has a TR90-covered bridge and is available in colours like crystal with powder pink titanium, teal with matte grey titanium, and classic black.

Two new sun shapes give the signature Paper-Thin design a new dimension. The lenses, as always with Paper-Thin designs, are high-performance polycarbonate lenses with polarized High Chromatic Definition.

Sun Collection The MODO sun collection uses high-quality materials and the latest production techniques to offer minimalistic designs and unmistakable lightness. Comfortable, thin and nearly weightless – all styles have a modern approach to form, function and protection.

MODO sunglasses are fitted with HCD (High Chromatic Definition) lenses, a combination of polarization and antireflective coating that offers unsurpassed colour clarity and maximum glare reduction, as well as 100 % UVA and UVB protection. modo.com

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/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

PRODESIGN // It’s all about how you feel // The Essential Collection from ProDesign is inspired by Danish design classics, and defined by beautiful shapes and playful colour ideas. “We focus on lightweight materials such as titanium and CXT, which can be cut thin to make the frames lightweight and comfortable to wear,” says Eyewear Architect Marie-Louise Japhetson. “Then we add subtle colours and play with transparency to further enhance the impression of lightness.”

New models include the Light Titanium styles 1417-19, where the darker colours on the top make the frames look light as well. designeyeweargroup.com

ZAC POSEN // Worn by Maddy @wideeyedlegless // US eyewear producers Kenmark Eyewear introduce new styles in the Zac Posen collection for Autumn 2018. The collection focuses on glamorous, oversized acetate shapes, in a palette of tortoise, nude and mottled effect patterns matched with softly toned lenses. Model Saida, pictured on blogger Maddy (@ wideeyedlegless), a featured influencer on #KenmarkGetsReal, a site designed by Kenmark highlighting real personalities in their sun and optical designs, offers glamorous shaping and timeless appeal. The new collections by Kenmark, including Vera Wang, Zac Posen and Original Penguin, will be exhibited at Mido, Milan in February. kenmarkeyewear.com

ROLF SPECTACLES // Minimal in natural wood // The award-winning wood eyewear experts ROLF Spectacles have released circular model Sprite in the EVOLVED collection.

The design is aimed at lovers of pure minimalist glasses design, created to provide a timeless and cool appearance in an ecological natural material. The frame style is created in a variety of wood types including Smoked Oak Maple, Smoked Oak or Smoked Oak Walnut.

All ROLF frames are handcrafted in Austria. Each pair of frames requires several hours work and a high degree of expertise and craftsmanship. rolf-spectacles.com

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/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

LOOK OCCHIALI // Comfortable and light // The new releases in the LOOK collection will be previewed at Mido in February. Modern-vintage models are highlighted in the 10632 series, characterized by ‘80s inspired pantos and linear shapes. The presence of gold in the chromatic solutions of Xinox, the exclusive metal alloy used by LOOK for the fronts, highlights the elegance and refinement of a timeless aesthetic.

New exclusive Nil temples with a screwless hinge guarantee an excellent fit and unrivaled comfort in terms of fitting on the face and prolonged use. Lightness and refinement are the basis of all the products produced by the Italian company, which takes pride in its research and experimentation using new technologies and new materials. Created in 1978, Look Occhiali will celebrate its 40th Anniversary at the Milan fair. lookocchiali.it

GÖTTI SWITZERLAND // Hi-tech materials and technology: Dimension // The new GÖTTI Dimension collection highlights a new combination where 3D printing meets stainless steel. Refined front sections are connected to a delicately fine eyeglass temple.

The technology behind the concept is one step ahead, according to the company. The front component is constructed layer by layer from a polyamide powder into a flexible and stable pair of glasses. This results in a compelling eyeglass material – both in its aesthetics as well as in its material characteristics: comfort and lightness. The temples are manufactured from robust Sandvik stainless steel from Sweden. The glasses also benefit from a screwless, glue-free construction. gotti.ch

JEAN-FRANÇOIS REY // ‘Le Cuir’ // The Jean-François Rey Le Cuir range is enriched with new shapes for 2018. Emphasis is placed on elegance and aesthetics and the use of a soft natural leather selected from the best tanneries in Tuscany, Italy. The originality of the optical models lies in the stylistic effect on the eyebrow of the frame, according to the brand, which reveals a delicate collage of materials. The shapes explore vintage themes, resulting in a new take on retro, typical of the French design brand. jfrey.fr

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/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

COCOA MINT SUNWEAR // Style and appeal // Cocoa Mint’s SS18 sunwear collection, produced by Eyespace in the UK, has been developed in conjunction with trend forecasts and targeted market research. The collection comprises 22 designer-infused pieces that bring the brand’s distinctive ‘relaxed glamour’ to life. Including acetate and metal pieces, the styles radiates modern femininity, adding a touch of on-trend appeal, as well as subtly drawing on the retro metallic trends that proved a highlight on the 2018 catwalks.

Providing the complete eyewear experience, a logo branded box, case, cloth and bag is provided with each Cocoa Mint Sunwear frame. Each of the new frames are suitable for sale with plano or prescription lenses and each piece provides quality UV protection, with CR39 or UV400 lenses. For added luxury, mirrored lenses are polarised and saltwater-safe. eyespace-eyewear.co.uk

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO EYEWEAR // Striking style and design // Salvatore Ferragamo’s latest eyewear design is distinguished by a striking construction that unites high-gloss glamour with artisanal sophistication. A symbol of the design house’s signature approach, driven by constant research and experimentation, the modern, round shape features a sleek play of tones and materials enhanced by a customized acetate exclusively created for this piece. The front presents a light metal structure intricately hand-placed in the polished, stonelike surface with metallic gold filaments that catch the light and create an alluring finish around the lenses, while the temples are embellished with a laser-engraved Ferragamo logo.

This feminine and stylish frame is featured in the upcoming Spring/Summer 2018 advertising campaign as the epitome of Ferragamo’s flawless craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail, expressed through a unique combination of diverse textures and colors. Available in Black Grey Stone, Crystal Quartz, Brown Greige Stone and Brown Quartz.

Salvatore Ferragamo eyewear is produced under license by Marchon Eyewear. marchon.com

DILEM EYEWEAR // Choose, combine and shine! // Offering design, personality and versatility, Dilem® gives glasses wearers the chance to create their own frames, depending on their mood. Reflecting their style and spirit, the frames are conceived to bring out each individual’s personality.

The Dilem design offers modern, creative temples with a choice of multiple fronts, allowing everyone to find the perfect fit for their personality and outfit. Dilem® is part of the Oxibis Group. dilem.fr

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Titanium in DEEPBLUE

#GIVESHAPETONATURE lookocchiali.it

/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

SERAPHIN EYEWEAR // Feminine luxury // Seraphin, Ogi Eyewear’s brand of affordable luxury eyewear inspired by neoclassic notions and timeless design, has released a new collection of sunglasses led by the Rosemary Sun and the Scarborough Sun. Showcasing innovative, fashion-forward flair, the designs present a fine attention to detail ranging from intricate design in translucent tones to an exquisite chain brow in a classic cat-eye shape.

The Rosemary Sun displays coalescing curves that create an uplifting cat-eye shape and a bold statement with frosted matte designs on glossy translucent acetate. Independent and sophisticated, the Scarborough Sun reaches the pinnacle of style. Available in tortoise and black, this strong cat-eye features an embedded chain brow and a notched peak which adds visual interest. ogieyewear.com

PRIDE EYEWEAR // Family tradition and a passion for eyes // PRIDE Eyewear introduces new styles in its exclusive eyewear collections, produced in Cortina d’Ampezzo, the Unesco heritage site in the Italian Dolomites. The team is inspired by the nature around them, the architecture and art of their culture. Lightness, innovative materials and techniques and radical shapes are characteristics of the line.

The new models follow a clean and minimal aesthetic creating a sophisticated up to date look, with metallic, matte and mirrored colour trims. The mix of innovative and architectural touches aims to create an essential, pure design with a spectacular finish for a unique and unconventional elegance.

“Our goal is to continue to work with adrenalin and excitement in every PRIDE Eyewear design, being partners for our clients and offering bright new different choices in eyewear”.

This year, PRIDE Eyewear won the German Design Award in the “Lifestyle and Fashion” category, one of the most prestigious international design prizes. prideeyewear.com

MEXX EYES // Clean lines, no frills // Style 2516 from Mexx Eyes is a plastic design with a feminine rounded square eye shape for Spring 2018. With its clean lines and no frills, these glasses are cool and contemporary, with a smart high-quality logo at the temple providing a touch of sparkle. The frame and its counterpart – style 2718 in metal with acetate feature bold wearable colours in trendy acetate and rich metallic tones with a matte finish. Mexx Eyes produces glasses for every day, created “for real people who live life to the full.” Mexx Eyes is produced by the German company OWP Brillen GmbH. mexx-eyes.com

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eco-optics.com

M I D O | D E S I G N L A B | S TA N D P 11 - R 14

/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

PERRET SCHAAD FOR SILHOUETTE //

Limited Edition launched in Berlin //

Silhouette Eyewear has announced its 2018 limited edition designer sunglass collaboration with the German design duo, Perret Schaad. Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad, the pair behind the cult fashion label, are known for their understated cool designs. Their use of beautifully contrasted materials, playfulness with shapes and contemporary colours made them the perfect partner for Silhouette, according to the eyewear producer.

The Perret Schaad for Silhouette collaboration is a unique trendsetting frame. The design takes inspiration from the vibrancy of the modern urban environment and offer a strikingly angular, hexagonal design which embodies clear influences of architectural and geometric styling. The dramatic angles of the frame are combined with Silhouette’s passion for a weightless and minimalist style.

Employing an inimitable cut-out and print lens technology, the exclusive frame comes in a series of dynamic colour contrasts: an on-trend metallic copper is paired with a summery orange hue, a warm magenta is boldly merged with a sophisticated grey shade, a neutral frame with perfectly mixed gold and caramel hues, while the final design features a vibrant brass rim outline with a cool, minty lens. The collection was launched on the catwalk at Berlin Fashion Week in January. silhouette.com

LACOSTE // Exclusive launch: Novak Djokovic Eyewear Collection // Lacoste has announced the launch of the Novak Djokovic Eyewear Collection, with three exclusive sunglass styles that connect the brand’s legacy of effortless, sport-inspired French elegance to the winning charisma and fair play of Novak Djokovic, the Serbian tennis champion.

Recently appointed ambassador par excellence of Lacoste, Djokovic’s new frames feature a special monogram of his initials on the temple tips, an emblem of the dynamic refinement and high quality at the heart of this exclusive project.

The three new styles, each with a unique personality, elevate Lacoste’s sporting heritage through contemporary innovation while offering a versatile and streamlined aesthetic. Each style is designed to add distinction to everyday looks while enhancing freedom of movement on the courts.

Characterized by functional shapes, premium materials and iconic details, the Novak Djokovic Eyewear Collection stands out as an authentic expression of the French brand’s effortless elegance and active attitude, incorporating colour combinations and graphics inspired by Djokovic’s Lacoste apparel collection.

The Novak Djokovic Eyewear Collection will be available at Lacoste boutiques and select opticians worldwide from March 2018. Lacoste Eyewear is produced by Marchon Eyewear, Inc. marchon.com / lacoste.com

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Zac Posen ‘Alek’ Shop the 2018 Zac Posen collection at kenmarkeyewear.com

/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

INVU // The “diamond cut” detail // INVU has launched its Spring/Summer 2018 collection of exclusive women’s sunglasses, showcasing its uniquely designed diamond cut. “The elegance and sophistication of the diamond cut, both in the front design as well as the hinge and temple, turns these sunglasses into items of fine jewellery,” says Beat Christ, Head Designer, Swiss Eyewear Group. The INVU diamond cut releases are crafted in a combination of metal and polymer materials in nature-inspired earth tones.

INVU sunglasses are designed and engineered in Switzerland and come fitted with ultra polarised lenses produced by Swiss Eyewear Group. With an RRP of 70 euros, the collection is designed to balance quality UV protection, design and value for money. invueyewear.com

XAVIER GARCIA // Translucent architecture // For Spring 2018, Xavier Garcia Eyewear announces a new collection in acetate based on the concept of Minimalism. The new frame designs have been created from a combination of classic and daring colored laminates, giving rise to models with a bold look and feel.

The Catalan designer presents his new designs with a palette of translucent single colours in warm and cool shades, defined by sculpted volumes and modern, refreshing shapes. The full Spring 2018 Collection, including both the new acetate and sophisticated metal collection from the Barcelona brand, will be on display at the international eyewear fair Mido this month. xaviergarcia.design

VANNI EYEWEAR

OKIA

// Spirit by Vanni, made in Italy //

// Symphony of ‘HDA® Colors’ // Italian brand Vanni has created an edition of optical frames and sunglasses to celebrate the brand’s 10 years of development and creative excellence. Spirit by Vanni embodies the colourful concepts of Blade, Tangram, Maps, Pixel, Raster and Wired, created in exclusive acetate designed by the Vanni design experts. The fusion of different, exclusive acetate sheets has been designed to create a patchwork of original patterns, each combination of which is inspired by a certain colour which guides the spirit of 10 years and dedication to creativity.

Launched in Turin in 1990, Vanni Eyewear is the creative label of family owned Nico-design. Alongside Vanni, the company also produces Derapage – the technological brand with a focus on performance and original design. vanniocchiali.com / nicodesign.it

OKIA, the Hong Kong-based eyewear company recognized for its patented HDA® Technology, has introduced the “Symphony of HDA® Colors” collection. Inspired by the symphony of lights, the new collection features translucent acetates where natural or abstract patterns meet unexpected variations of colours.

Thanks to the application of the patented HDA® Technology which ensures a high definition and three-dimensional effect shimmering colours blend on the front edges and the temples, making the frames and their patterns dynamic and lively. The colour pattern can also be UV printed on the frame to further increase the three-dimensional effect, adding texturing details that enrich the design and highlight its gradient hues. okia.com

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sales@cutlerandgross.com | +44 (0) 208 451 0331 Mod 1270/2

/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

EDITOR’S STYLE NOTES

The expert crafting and attention to detail of the Japanese eyewear brands continues to appeal to Europeans. Keep an eye out for these popular names as well as a rising number of innovative, young designers…

MADE IN JAPAN 1. MASUNAGA Daisy by Masunaga is named after Daisy Buchanan in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby. The front is made from lightweight titanium with acetate inserts and the temples from “Gum-Titanium”, described as a highly elastic titanium alloy. masunaga1905.com

2. EYEVAN7285 Model 639 is characterised by a convex shaped rim and features titanium nose pads. All the details are carefully considered resulting in a timeless ultralight design suited to sun or optical lenses. eyevan7285.com

3. MASAHIRO MARUYAMA Inspired by erased pencil lines, the latest concept by Masahiro Maruyama relies on the skill and technical know-how of artisans In Kawada ward, Sabae city (Fukui). In this way, the frames boast “a smooth fit and beautiful lustre”. masahiromaruyama.com

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MIDO 2018 | 24.25.26 FEBRUARY | MILAN M I D O D E S I G N L A B PAV. 4 B O O T H S 1 9 -T 2 2

vanniocchiali.com

/// ADVERTORIAL ///

MAGICAL AND MAGNIFICENT Far from standardized fashion dictates and conformist trends, FACE A FACE is envisioned within the Parisian design studio by creator Pascal Jaulent and his design team. Each FACE A FACE concept explores shapes, textures, materials and colours in expressive ways turning the frames into small pieces of art.

This season the alluring colour palettes of Gauguin and Matisse have enchanted the hearts of the creative design team and bring to the designs of FACE A FACE a playful range of breathtaking green accents, magical blues and lavish reds, which are passionate and lush, like tropical forests.

To enhance the vibrant impression, we play with volumes when sculpting the brow and boldly framing the eye. The lines become thicker and the acetates cut in prisms, points and layers create surprising new interpretations and effects, says Pascal Jaulent, creator at FACE A FACE. The trend of audacious ‘frames in frames’ seems to echo from one shape to the other and from one concept to the next. An echo created by repetition, by transparencies or by usage of colours. faceaface-paris.com / designeyeweargroup.com

BOCCA GINA 1+2 A new star is here: reinventing the passion for the spirit of the 50s and 60s, BOCCA GINA is shaped as a tribute to the Italian actress Gina Lollobrigida, who reigned as the most beautiful diva of her time. Expressing femininity in every detail, BOCCA GINA comes as the new star of the season. The shapes are pointed and the coloration delicate, with the BOCCA signature of a pretty ballerina at the tip of the temple. Truly inspired by the 1960s Italy!

BOCCA WALK 2 The new shape of the BOCCA WALK plays with a golden bridge to give an exclusive highlight to a modern feminine expression.

The colours are key to this concept, where matt finishes and transparencies create an alluring look.

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NEW SS/18 COLLECTIONS OUT NOW F williammorrislondon  williammorrislondon  williammorris.co.uk

/// INTERVIEW ///

Anniversary celebrations: Hoffmann Natural Eyewear The elegant beauty of natural horn has been thoughtfully and meticulously crafted into majestic frames for forty years at Hoffmann natural Eyewear. As the company celebrates a milestone anniversary, Jutta Kahlbetzer, CEO/ Designer, reminisces about the creative origin - and future visionary perspectives - of this luxurious German brand.

Interview by Joan Grady

Please share with us the philosophy of Hoffmann Natural Eyewear.

We believe in craftsmanship, individuality and naturalness.

Our frames don’t boast a logo – they make their statement by understatement und underline the wearer’s personality.

Sustainability is also extremely important and of course the frames are “Made in Germany” with everything happening in house in our atelier in the Volcanic Eifel. This area is in the region of Germany’s Eifel Mountains, and it is still volcanically active today.

How has frame crafting evolved since Hoffmann’s origin forty years ago?

Josef Hoffmann, who founded the company forty years ago, was an inventor who was fascinated by natural materials. He created the machines to precisely cut the horn. Nowadays, traditional craftsmanship is combined with the best of high

Jutta Kahlbetzer,

CEO/Designer Hoffmann Natural Eyewear

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/// INTERVIEW ///

Style 2272 SPH07-H10 “Every piece of horn is different”

skills alive and meticulously do up their own houses or restore classic cars (the famous Nürburgring racetrack is right on our doorstep – a dynamic contrast to the usually peaceful surroundings!)

Fortunately, our team of skilled specialists includes a mixture of talented people, some of whom have worked for us for more than 20 or even 30 years, while others are young colleagues with fresh ideas. When people start to work with these natural materials, they see it is really creative.

We believe in craftsmanship, individuality and naturalness. Our frames don’t boast a logo – they make their statement by understatement and underline the wearer’s personality.

Describe the Hoffmann Natural Eyewear customer profile. Does this differ significantly in certain countries?

In a word – individualists! Musicians and bankers, politicians and scientists, people who value ecological aspects, young people who don’t care for obvious labels – all of these might choose one of our horn frames, knowing that Hoffmann will fulfil their personal wishes.

tech options, but the fact remains that many handcrafting skills can’t be carried out by machines. Also, every piece of horn is different and needs to be assessed by experienced eyes. Buffalo horn in older animals is more colourful than young calves.

Hoffmann creates designs in horn, slate and wood, whilst real alpaca hair, gold or silks can be integrated into the frames. Can you envision any other natural material that you feel is suitable for eyewear?

Creating handcrafted eyewear requires skilled artisans. Is it difficult to find people with the unique knowledge required?

Absolutely, but this is still a secret as the 2019 collection will be called “Back to the Earth”. It will be enriched by natural materials from our home area... stay excited!

Yes, it is, and it takes years to train new craftsmen. But luckily people in this rural area are still interested in keeping traditional

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/// INTERVIEW ///

The trend for sustainability will continue to grow, and people - especially in cities – will desire more natural influences in their daily lives as digitalization increasingly takes over.

Are there any special celebrations planned to mark Hoffmann’s 40th Anniversary?

Yes, of course – for example a coffee table book with a complete history of the company, and a special Anniversary Collection inspired by the frames of the past decades. And other ideas are waiting to be revealed...

Nowadays, the desire for natural eyewear fabrications is an increasing priority. Do you foresee this trend continuing?

The trend for sustainability will continue to grow, and people - especially in cities – will desire more natural influences in their daily lives as digitalization increasingly takes over. We need nature to keep us healthy, and to keep our bodies and mind in balance. People will want to distinguish themselves and looking good will become linked with individuality.

Style 791 SPH08 – Natural horn colours depend on the arrangement of the horn layers

hoffmann-eyewear.com

From India: “Buffalo horn in older animals is more colourful”

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MIDO — Hall 4 — Stand K15

www.komono.com

/// ADVERTORIAL ///

Götti Dimension, 3D printed eyewear THE POWERFUL ASPECT The perfect balance. Powerful shapes and an incredibly light and flexible material. And with Götti Dimension X a completely new individualization. The result: Perfect wearer comfort thanks to glasses with a unique identity. This is not only a new technology, it‘s a new feeling of wearing made in Switzerland.

DIMENSION X Its manufacture using 3D printing enables a lot of freedom in the customization. Since each part of the glasses is always individually produced, the desired parameters can be adapted to the users’ needs.

The option to adjust individual components enables us to produce the perfect pair of glasses for everyone. Instead of a massproduced product, a glasses frame with its own identity. With this technology, the limitless adaptation of all factors is fundamentally possible. Götti Dimension X concentrates on the important parameters and offers a clear system. This type of construction set eliminates the time-consuming measurement or scanning during the customer consultation. Because limitless possibilities arise just by selecting different nose bridges or lens sizes.

HIGH PRECISION 3D PRINTED EYEWEAR The glasses are manufactured using state-of-the-art additive production methods in our own factory in Switzerland.

The starting material polyamide in the form of a fine, white powder is fed into an industrial 3D printer. This uses a laser beam to merge the powder layer-for-layer. After cooling off, the finished individual parts are removed from the remaining powder, polished and dyed. During this process, the specially created shade of color penetrates the top layers of the frame. The story of Dimension: Embrace diversity. Interchange identities and characters. Blend influences of urbanity, art, architecture, fashion, raw nature. Upgrade to contemporary street style.

The new collection including new powerful shapes. All styles are available as optical and sunglasses, focus on really wearable frames and a perfect fitting.

Dimension X concentrates on the needs of the customer.

With this simple but effective customization, a high-quality individual piece can be realized at minimal cost. What was unthinkable just a few years ago is now a reality with the Götti Dimension X. A simple system for customized frames. The highest wearer comfort – Made in Switzerland. gotti.ch

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From South Korea: MUZIK EYEWEAR Muzik is one of Korea’s rising brands, with an exciting Korean celebrity following. The brand has a strong fashion aesthetic and exclusive production in France, as well as using DIVEL lenses from Italy. The brand was created

by Jean-Louise Comte. muzikeyewear.com

NAMES TO WATCH 2018

Changing attitudes, individual proposals As customers look closer at the details and story behind their chosen eyewear brands, a new breed of independent labels is proposing different, unique looks, fascinating levels of craftsmanship and exciting, individual ideas on design and innovation. 20/20 Europe highlights some of the youngest eyewear labels to watch, all of which are part of this new and rising direction in eyewear creation.

/// NEXT GENERATION ///

What’s DIFFERENT? Eyewear Expertise, an innovative spirit and a forward-thinking attitude Compiled by Clodagh Norton

The lively atmosphere and strong presence of fast growing eyewear companies and new start-ups at the Opti show in Germany set the scene at the start of 2018: a positive, creative mood prevails, with plenty of choice to suit all tastes, and an increasingly joyful and carefree colour palette and design direction that confirms our desire for a more idiosyncratic, individual design that literally “pops” on the face.

JOHNNY LOCO, HOLLAND Johnny Loco, an Amsterdam original brand, recently expanded its eyewear collection with new models for the 2018 seasons.

Last year Johnny Loco started with the launch of a new collection of flexible stainless steel optical designs - based on and inspired by iconic characters from the recent history of film. A relaxed way of life and sense of style kept inspiring the brand, and with this came the development of the brand with new handmade sunglasses, made in Portugal. Created in unique Mazzucchelli acetate sheets, the lenses are produced by Carl Zeiss Vision and equipped with durable, high-quality, 5-barrel rivet hinges. Johnny Loco eyewear is available in more than ten different countries around the world. johnnyloco.com

YOU MAWO, specialists in 3d printed eyewear, released their eyewear concept in buffalo horn in January

YOU MAWO, GERMANY YOU MAWO, the German start-up, conceived their idea for 3d printed eyewear just six years ago during a backpacking trip around the world. Their concept combines 3D printing technology and customisation with the aim of creating a completely personalised design for the individual. This year YOU MAWO have expanded their offer, “introducing a renaissance for one of the oldest and most established eyewear materials: horn”. With the latest scan technology the brand has developed a way to adjust this natural material to the customer’s face with “100% accuracy”. The product is 100% self-manufactured and 100 % made in Germany. youmawo.com

Johnny Loco is based in Amsterdam and produces its frames in an established eyewear factory in Portugal

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/// NEXT GENERATION ///

LA PETITE LUNETTE ROUGE, FRANCE France has seen a rise in new designers and opticians-turneddesigners in the last year, with some brands achieving notoriety in fashion as well as optics. La Petite Lunette Rouge (LPLR), has had success in Colette – the Parisian fashion retail store.

Made exclusively in France, the LPLR frames in acetate and aluminium feature a double-bridge that has since become a signature in bright red. The design duo behind the label, Alison Hemmes and Hilarhi Arcade, are inspired by artistic movements and, in particular, the modernist aesthetic. lapetitelunetterouge.com

IMPRESSIO PARIS, LUXEMBOURG Impressio Paris is the creation of Emmanuel Andrivet and Guillaume Boisson who have been working in eyewear design and development for over 20 years. Based in Luxembourg, the collection includes 21 models, 15 optical designs and 6 sunglasses, with sun lenses from ZEISS and DIVEL. The aim of the designs is to combine high technology and craftsmanship and the team uses complex 3D CAD modelling and the latest 3D additive manufacturing combined with stamped titanium. Each frame is hand assembled and finished in the Luxembourg workshop to ensure accuracy, lightness, and the highest quality finishing. impressio-paris.com

La Petite Lunette Rouge: a distinctive red bar over the bridge makes these designs immediately identifiable.

IMPRESSIO PARIS by Game of Frame: 3d printed technology meets luxurious craftsmanship

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/// NEXT GENERATION ///

KOMOREBI EYEWEAR, BELGIUM Belgian brand Komorebi has developed an eyewear collection with clean minimal shapes produced in Japanese titanium and Mazzucchelli acetate. Each of the models is inspired by the notion of transparency, light and reflection, based on ‘komorebi’, the Japanese word for “sunlight shining through leaves”. The frames are produced “mainly in Europe” and the accessories are produced in small creative workshops in Belgium. komorebi.be

PLEIN LES MIRETTES, FRANCE Plein Les Mirettes from Normandy has quickly achieved a reputation for fine, creative eyewear designs for women who appreciate individual style. Designed by Christophe Morcamp, the collection is made “close to home” in a small factory known for its precision and expertise. Colour is an important focus in the collection, and Morcamp has a special sensitivity to colours that are flattering and elegant to wear. The brand now has over 700 optical outlets in France and is growing in Germany, the USA and South East Asia where it attends all the key international optical fairs. plein-les-mirettes.fr

For Art’s Sake: producing keenly priced sunglasses for stylish individuals

FOR ART’S SAKE, UNITED KINGDOM For Art’s Sake founders Yannis and Xiwen were enjoying a holiday in Greece when the creative director, Xiwen, couldn’t find any sunglasses she liked. All the ones she wanted were, she says, too expensive, and all the ones that were affordable just weren’t stylish enough! In 2016, For Art’s Sake was founded to remedy the problem. Since then, For Art’s Sake has been designing sunglasses for the fashion-forward individual at an accessible, entry-luxury price point. “Ultimately, art is at the heart of what we do; For Art’s Sake aims to promote a lifestyle of open-mindedness, diversity and experimentation in everything --from the designs of the sunglasses to our values and office culture.” fasforartssake.com

Plein Les Mirettes: charming and elegant, colour combinations by the French label

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/// NEXT GENERATION ///

KALEOS EYEHUNTERS: a young brand’s success story

20/20 Europe first visited the KALEOS start-up in 2015 in their home city of Barcelona when they were a team of two. Since they launched the collection in SILMO in 2014, the brand has established a presence in leading fashion and optical stores worldwide. 20/20 Europe interviewed Creative Director, Claudia Brotons.

Interview by Clodagh Norton

KALEOS is one of the fastest growing independent eyewear start-ups. Tell us about your journey so far?

I have a background in fashion and accessories. I have also been fascinated in eyewear, the construction and the architectural character in the creation of a pair of glasses. After a year of development, Juan GassĂł and myself first launched KALEOS at Silmo in 2014. We were surprised to find that on the first day we were already receiving orders and we confirmed our first distribution agreement in Greece. As it was a project that we launched without being sure how it would turn out, we both decided to continue with our jobs outside the business initially.

Model Lund by Kaleos: a cat eye lens shape held in place by an acetate frame. The tones of the lenses match the tone of the acetate; the lens is graduated with the lighter part at the top

Claudia Brotons,

Creative Director of Kaleos Eyehunters

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/// IN DETAIL ///

details make the frame stand out. Once we have the technical planning in place we send this to the factory to make the prototype. Once we receive the prototypes back we do detailed revisions and then, once all is carefully approved we are ready for production. The process of the production of one pair of glasses or sunglasses lasts between 40 and 60 days.

As well as attending the international eyewear fairs we rely on a commercial network which presents the collection to selected retailers. As a brand that is closely linked to fashion we have developed a presence in fashion retail stores such as Barneys and Matchesfashion.com who look for different up and coming labels.

What do you think has helped the brand grow in the current market which is very competitive, particularly on price? Have you had success in markets that have been a surprise for you?

The design of our frames is different, particularly in the small details. We take care in finding new constructions, and offering a product that is on trend, with plenty of choice and colours that people love, without compromising on the comfort of the frames.

We were working on the Kaleos collection at odd hours, at night and at the weekend. Gradually our orders were increased, and we needed to open an office and create a company and a small team.

“Our house became the design studio. Our drawings were all over the floors. And we were making decisions while we were making dinner, approving colour combinations on the way to work and organizing photo shoots with friends, family and people we knew…”

Model Radley by Kaleos: a flat floating lens is held in place with metal pieces that look like “staples”. The frame itself is made from acetate

Developing new shapes requires a lot of detailed technical work. When we start to design we are always thinking about the aesthetics but also the production, it has to be viable. We like to work with trends and offer new things all the time. The whole process of creating a frame is almost a year’s work. For this reason, if we want to design glasses that people love, we must be able to anticipate what they will be asking for many months in advance.

What are you launching for 2018?

We work with a new theme every six months to develop our optical and sunglass collections. We design many different models to find what we really like. Once we have confirmed the final shapes, we work on the technical details of each frame and the specifications required to make it exactly how we imagined it to be. We are very meticulous in this area because the small

We are presenting Chromatics, a collection of 10 sun models and 5 opticals inspired by the summer sunsets. We have explored the colours of the sunset, and we have developed lenses which reflect the light and colours at these times of the day, combining

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/// NEXT GENERATION ///

them with tone on tone with the acetate frames. The lenses have an important role in this collection, whether it’s the form, the colour or the construction.

success. As regards projects and collaborations, we can say that we are working on new ideas for presentation during 2018.

What are your goals for 2018?

Has your location in Barcelona impacted the growth of the brand? Where do you produce your frames and is this working out successfully for you? Italy, Japan, China or a combination of countries?

This year we are consolidating our progress with a new strategy team who will work to evolve and grow the brand, offering a new vision. For us, this is one of the most important points: to

Barcelona is a wonderful, pluralistic and relaxed city and everyone falls in love with it. Barcelona is part of our DNA, along with a Mediterranean influence and European touches.

But I think there are now lots of different influences on the growth of the brand.

We believe in working with different countries for our production and have links with China and Korea. We work with the very best materials including Italian acetates and Italian lens companies. We are very demanding when it comes to the quality we require.

What’s next and where are you setting your sights in 2018?

In 2018 we want to establish ourselves in the European markets and consolidate our international distribution.

Are you planning other projects such as designer collaborations or special editions?

Models Fairchild and Lord: unique angular shapes by Kaleos

translate the quality that we have established in the product into more innovative, new, surprising concepts.

Our plan is to find the best partners to distribute the collection around the world. We have a lot of work to do to make this a

kaleoseyehunters.com

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sigmund & carl

NEUBAU-EYEWEAR.COM

/// SHOWCASE ///

Names to notice in 2018

NEUBAU EYEWEAR

BUDRI MARBLE EYEWEAR

Forward-looking inspiration

Luxury with know-how

Young label neubau eyewear has announced a new arrival in their premium collection for April. Sunglass model Sigmund & Carl offers a “forward-looking, unusual design” while sticking to the brand’s commitment to providing an excellent fit. The frame is made from titanium and stainless steel as well as the sustainable material natural PX. The glasses case, which was created in collaboration with the Munich-based label ANY DI, provides another highlight. Neubau is a popular newcomer in the creative eyewear segment, producing vibrant, imaginative eyewear collections.

Italian marble experts BUDRI introduced their eyewear line in 2016 using special techniques to create the suitable lightness and excellent comfort of the natural material on the face. Due to the complexity of the material itself, making eyewear in marble demands constant research and experimentation, not always necessary with other materials. The types of marble selected by Budri are obtained from quarries situated in different parts of the world. On average, it takes 25 hours of processing to obtain a finished, polished, ready-to-wear BUDRI frame.

neubau-eyewear.com

budrieyewear.com

BERENFORD

FRENK EYEWEAR

Artisanal style

A young, innovative spirit

Created by design duo Christian and Elizabeth, Berenford was born out of a desire to create a range of limited artisan pieces inspired by old world glam. All of Berenford’s products are handcrafted in Italy with a distinct focus on craftsmanship and quality. “Attention to detail is at the heart of our philosophy” say the design duo. “We strive for outstanding workmanship and uniqueness”. The featured model is part of the brand’s “London” edition which is popular with celebrities including Elton John.

In model Pegaso, Italian label FRENK strives for design and innovation in one unique product. Designed for all day use, the frame is made with stainless steel and a new polyFRENK material. The TNT hinge system is completely screwless with an effective spring action while the nose pads feature “air-cushion” technology made in a soft hypoallergenic silicone material. FRENK is located in the Cadore in Italy and continues the Italian artisan tradition while innovating with new proposals focusing on comfort and design.

berenford.com

frenk.it

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/// SHOWCASE ///

up-and-coming talent and innovators of note...

CINEMATIQ

KOMONO

For the film connoisseur

Marine focus

Tipton Eyeworks - the producers of Vinylize – have created the Cinematiq Collection, eyewear made from original vintage film footage. The 2018 collection boasts 10 models in 3 colours, black, havana and grey, all of which play on the transparency of film. The newly redesigned temples “lock” into each other and the film has been preserved with transparent protective layers on both sides.

The 2018 Cinematiq collection repurposes original 16mm film footage.

The vintage footage is encapsulated in a protective envelope and sandwiched into the lacquered stainless steel temples. The entire frame is built from hypoallergenic materials and features adjustable nose pads. cinematiqeyewear.com

The Marine Collection combines KOMONO’s signature flat frames and steel temples with eye-catching deep blue lenses. Minimalist and bold, this collection evolves the game-changing Purple Rain’s confidence to create a look that’s at once daring and understated – and a striking final touch to any wardrobe. The Marine Collection is available in four iconic KOMONO styles: the Monroe, the Taylor, the Lennon, and the Alex. The Monroe (pictured above) has an octagonal eye shape and trendy look that is ideal for men or women. KOMONO’s founders were recently awarded the Entrepreneur of the Year prize at the Belgian fashion awards.

CAROLINE ABRAM

VAVA EYEWEAR

Exotic and stylish

Craft + the high-tech

Paris-based Caroline Abram has a creative approach in all materials, although she has become well-known for exotic colour schemes in acetate. The recent styles in stainless steel explore colour and shape with interesting combinations as illustrated in Vivi, a rose and gold cat’s eye with a very slender appearance. Since launching her eyewear collection in 2008 and winning a Silmo D’Or for her designs in the same year, Abram has also expanded into children’s eyewear with the collection Tête à Lunettes.

Contemporary, conceptual and timeless, the VAVA brand from Berlin continues to express its passion for innovation and design. Launched this season is a new sports line seeking to create a dialogue between craft and high tech. The modular concept of the eyewear allows the frame to be adjusted to the wearer’s personal silhouette. Among other features, optional windshields can be added to protect eyes from wind and particles and removable nose pads facilitate the interchangeable lenses. Produced in Belgium, the 3d printed nylon frame is flexible and strong.

carolineabram.com

vavaeyewear.com

komono.com

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/// ADVERTORIAL ///

Plein Les Mirettes

Growing and developing

Based on the growing success of Plein Les Mirettes, Christophe Morcamp (Founder and Designer) and Pascal Guidice (Finance and Strategy Export) made the decision to enter the Asian markets. Plein Les Mirettes is now established as an essential brand worldwide.

As often as possible, Pascal and Christophe attend the exhibitions themselves. They have decided to go to Korea and Japan to meet Agents and Distributors and to start Plein Les Mirettes’ communication in this area.

They will also take advantage of the summer to finalize preparations for the Hong Kong show and to look for partners in Taiwan, Singapore and China.

The duo will also attend Bold Optical Fair, Copenhagen Specs, and the Loft NY. At each exhibition, they will introduce new models and colours specific to Plein Les Mirettes, in limited editions.

“Meeting a growing public without losing soul, respecting and maintaining the quality of French manufacturing”

6 new acetate models, and new colours in the metal / acetate combinations will be unveiled. As always, the acetates will offer exceptional and unique colorations, typical of the collection.

Plein Les Mirettes has decided to maintain and increase its quality, not only by maintaining the manufacturing in Normandy, but also by participating in its growth.

In the first quarter of the year, new machines and new staff will strengthen the production capacity. Moreover, the acetate plates will be 100% Made by Mazzucchelli, and the share of specific colours and limited series among the models of Plein Les Mirettes will be increased.

Originally recognized for the ultra-feminine shapes and its vivid and exclusive colour work, the evolution of the collection and its clientele has progressively brought Christophe Morcamp to design sharper and more modern models, as well as softer colours and features of the “chic à la Française”.

The strengths of Plein Les Mirettes are the ability to evolve while remaining recognizable at first glance as a luxurious and trend led eyewear label, adapting to different markets without losing individuality. The brand has not sacrificed the quality of the production over the years to maximize profits. plein-les-mirettes.fr

Confidence has no competition, individuality is an expression and style is the personal signature.

FYSH UK is designed for the strong, ambitious, game c hanging women who embrace individual style. Combining the latest runway looks with the color trends of the season, FYSH UK eyewear features a vast array of bold colors, intricate patterns, unique constructions and shapes.

MIDO | HALL 2 | BOOTH C33 |1.514.383.0042 | WWW.WESTGROUPE.COM | F-2025

www.prideeyewear.com

info@prideeyewear.it

/// ADVERTORIAL ///

AM EYEWEAR A brand without borders When it comes to sourcing materials, AM Eyewear has a long history of looking through a worldly frame. Now in their 15th year, they uphold a tradition of combining premium elements from trusted sources across the globe within pure, elegant designs.

CRAFTSMANSHIP AND PREMIUM MATERIALS Decidedly unrestricted by borders or materials, AM Eyewear champion their relationships with premium suppliers across five countries, ensuring any selected practitioners is a master in their craft. Founder Simon Ponnusamy explains his process is similar to choosing cuisine; just as he wouldn’t visit a sushi restaurant expecting to order a pasta dish, he doesn’t expect his titanium factory in Japan to deliver the same product as his acetate factory in Italy.

“My passion for mixing premium materials means we have to produce our frames across many different countries,” says Simon. “That way I’m able to ensure the best possible factory has been entrusted to make that frame or component. I’ve searched the world relentlessly since 2002 to find my factories, and I now hold very close relationships with them. Having such a long history with them has also become accentual to our

pricing structure, and is how we are able to offer such a high standard of product at the prices we do,” he says.

STRONG RELATIONSHIPS AND CONSISTENT QUALITY Establishing a strong presence early within the eyewear market has meant AM Eyewear’s production prices have remained consistent and affordable amidst inflation. “Whilst many newer brands are competing for production capacity in overcommitted

factories, they’re paying a premium for it,” says Simon. “I’m often asked how we can release a buffalo horn and titanium frame for €124 wholesale. Our established relationships are the key. Keeping our wholesale prices low gives us the ability to offer the optician an up to X 3.5 mark up, delivering the same profit as more expensive frames, while the cheaper retail price leaves the consumer with more money to spend on lenses. We deliver value to our customers through premium products, and to opticians through opportunities to make higher returns from the frames and lenses.” ameyewear.com

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/// EVENTS ///

100% OPTICAL: London’s Optical Show

Fifth edition of 100% Optical described as “exceeding expectations” The London optical show took place at ExCel from 27th 29th January and was described as “bigger, bolder and brighter than ever before”. The show attracted visitors from all over the world and premiered more than 20 exclusive product launches, 16,500 frames and 100 pieces of equipment, according to the organisers.

It showcased the biggest equipment area to date with 20 manufacturers and 200 exhibitors featured in an impressive line-up including Cerium, William Morris, Optos, Specsavers, Essilor, Continental Eyewear, Bausch & Lomb, Amplify Hearing and Snowbird Finance.

“The new audiology section proved a success with a dozen new exhibitors and a programme of audiology seminars.

It’s a new initiative and momentum is starting to build as practitioners recognize an opportunity to align additional services to their clinical portfolio.

“We’ve had double digit growth on visitor figures which is great news for our fifth anniversary and we’ve noticed a significant number of first-time visitors who haven’t been to an optical show before. Many visitors maximised their time by planning and pre-booking appointments with exhibitors and we’ve had really positive feedback about how much people enjoyed the show.”

Nathan Garnett, Event Director

The 20/20 catwalk show revealed a glimpse into tomorrow’s trends and the hottest colours. Day one featured children dancing and modelling new junior eyewear designs.

Meanwhile, the world-class education programme provided more than 140 hours of CET and CPD sessions for the whole practice team.

Exhibitor rebooking numbers are also “at a record high” after the show according to Media Ten, who confirmed bookings with Birmingham Optical, Bib Ophthalmic Instruments, William Morris, De Rigo, Performance Finance, Zuma Morel, Leightons Opticians, Andy Wolf Eyewear, Salt. and Safarro.

100% Optical will take place from 12-14th January 2019.

The Royal College of Art Eyewear Design Competition demonstrated young British talent to an international market

100percentoptical.com

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/// EVENTS ///

COPENHAGEN SPECS in Berlin Supported by Brillen-Profi copenhagen specs in Berlin, the new independent eyewear show, created by Morten Gammelmark, will open for the first time on 20th to 21st October 2018. The fair will take place at Arena Berlin in Alt-Treptow.

With a concept based on the independent eyewear show in Copenhagen, launched four years ago, the fair will feature small booths with a simple design to maximize focus on the products.

The fair has confirmed attendance of the biggest network of opticians in Germany: Brillen-Profi, an independent optical network with 1.850 partner shops. Brillen-Profi is one of the most innovative optical networks in Germany, working to give the independent optician and the brands they work with the best possible opportunities in the tough and challenging market.

Founder/CEO of copenhagen specs in Berlin, Morten Gammelmark says: “I’m very proud that Brillen-Profi has chosen to use copenhagen specs in Berlin as an active part of their set up. Brillen-Profi and copenhagen specs in Berlin are both companies who work for independence in the eyewear industry, so for me, it’s a natural step, that we will work together and support each other.”

DIOPS 2018 Booth Application Goal reaches 90% Korea Optical Industry Agency (KOIA) reported that the first and second round of business registration for the 17th Daegu International Optical Show (DIOPS) to be held on 18~20 April 2018, has closed successfully registering 90% bookings to cover 20,077m2 for 220 companies.

copenhagenspecs.de

The DIOPS secretariat has worked hard to ensure business participation in DIOPS in order to secure the opportunity to alleviate difficulties in the Korean optical industry and expand export by pioneering new foreign markets.

DIOPS 2018 is holding its 17th event this year. It seeks to take various steps to better show the ever-changing and expanding Korean optical industry. The schedule has been changed from Thursday, Friday, and Saturday to Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday to focus on business. Also, the buyer matching service has been expanded with plans to increase satisfactory results through smart matching that meets the demands from foreign buyers using the ‘Korean Optical Selling List’ created last year. DIOPS will be focusing on both export and the domestic markets. Training sessions are being planned for local branches of the Korean Optometric Association, and support will be provided for group visits from the greater Seoul metropolitan area as well as the Daejeon, Chungcheong, and Honam regions in order to increase participation of opticians.

Product launch fashion shows, last year’s most popular side event, will also be expanded this year. Models and the fashion catwalk provided participating companies with additional exposure and marketing opportunities. This has paved the way for an increased number of brands and firms confirming their participation on the stage this year. diops.co.kr

The dramatic location of the new fair, ARENA BERLIN

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/// EVENTS ///

Opti 2018 The organisers of the OPTI fair reported 28.430 visitors, 668 exhibitors from 40 countries and more than 174 million orders during the first quarter. In addition to that, the trade show reported that it is more than satisfied over consistently high approval ratings: 94% of visitors and 92% of exhibitors gave the fair top marks. The new hall B4 with its FUTURESHOP, numerous manufacturers working in the field of materials, machines and supply as well as the international pavilions made for a great addition to the trade show. opti 2018 was an important prologue and a successful final rehearsal for the opti premiere event in 2019. The first time opening of a fifth hall and the spatial merging of the independent labels in hall C1 and C2 offered a taste of what is to come at the international optics event next year.

Jacky Lam OKIA General Manager

“opti will open a new chapter with two new halls in 2019”

Okia at Mido

Dieter Dohr, CEO of GHM Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH

#seethefuture

The new space in hall B4 was popular among exhibitors and visitors: the pavilions of South Korea, France, China and Japan as well as the new FUTURESHOP were located there.

The trade audience of opti 2018 was able to experience 17 percent more exhibitors than in the year before; machine companies were granted a space to present their technologies and regular companies were able to extend their booth.

Hong-Kong based eyewear company OKIA is to hold five exclusive workshops at Mido 2018, developed in collaboration with WGSN. The “See The Future of Eyewear” event has been created for manufacturers, suppliers, buyers, designers and editors.

OKIA has chosen the Milan show to unveil key trends and innovations for the coming season and the future of eyewear.

The “SS19 Key Trends” and “Upcoming Technology and Innovation” workshops will take place on 24th and 26th February. Covering the latest looks from the SS18 global catwalks and exploring trends from street style and social media, the first presentation will focus on key shapes, colours, prints and patterns for next season.

The second presentation will provide a “now, new, next” point of view for key trends in the eyewear industry, tracking the origins and evolution of a trend and answering the big question, “What’s next?”.

On 25th February, before the Press Conference which will introduce the trade press to the latest goals reached by OKIA, the “Highlight of the Eyewear Summit 2018” workshop will offer a round-up of the top 10 key ideas in terms of trends and innovation through an engaging, visual presentation.

All the events arranged in the OKIA 2018 Eyewear Summit will take place at the completely renovated OKIA booth with the exclusive participation of Helen Sac, Director, Asia Pacific for WGSN. With over 10 years’ experience across continents and cultures, Sac develops bespoke consulting projects that define how trends impact brands and consumers. She contributes creative direction for fast-fashion high-street multiples globally and has added insight to the design and research process of major international brands and retailers, including VF Corp, Samsung, Meters/bonwe, Shiseido & Disney.

The next Munich event will take place from the 25th to 27th January 2019 in halls C1 to C6 at the Fairground Munich. opti.de

The OKIA 2018 “Eyewear Summit” takes place from 24th to 26th February at MIDO on the OKIA Booth (Pav 4 Booth H23 K26).

The Opti blogger event and the winners of the Blogger Spectacle Award 2018, NINA MÛR

okia.com

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/// EVENTS ///

Special Private Equity Live Event to Explore the Trend’s Impact on Optometry With private equity’s interest and investment in the vision care space continuing at a rapid pace, there is much interest and many questions about the implications for optometrists and ECPs, the companies and practices. A special event to examine the subject, “Private Equity Takes Root – What Does It Mean for Optometry?” will be held at the upcoming Vision Expo East. The special live event is being presented in cooperation with Review of Optometric Business, Vision Expo and Vision Monday.

VISION EXPO EAST 2018 Events announced

Registration is now open for the two-hour program, which will be held on Saturday afternoon, from 2:45 to 4:45 p.m., at the Javits Center. Registration is free and open to all registered Show attendees.

This special session will include: An overview of the changing economics that guide an OD’s decision to partner with private equity or to remain independent.

A comprehensive, printed report on the market dynamics driving today’s private equity investment in optical.

The pros and cons of partnering with private equity, as described by Optometrists directly.

In addition, a panel of executives from four leading private equity companies and management groups in optical will address their philosophies and value propositions and take questions from the audience.

Attendees will receive guidance to formulate a “decision tree” about the issue for their practice.

“Private Equity Takes Root – What Does It Mean for Optometry?” will be held at the Vision Expo Partner Pavilion, Level 1 in Hall 1E, Room 1E16.

Women’s Wear Daily Vision Expo and Women’s Wear Daily, the daily media of record and authority of the global fashion, retail and beauty communities, are partnering once again for a Facebook LIVE stream from Vision Expo East.

Expansion of Vision Expo East New Designer Gallery Vision Expo East has confirmed 14 designers to-date for its New Designer Gallery. The Gallery offers an elegant and fresh environment for new emerging designers to distinguish themselves in a charming and curated destination. The Gallery offers new brands exposure to high-end optical buyers searching for new designs, trends and fashion-forward frames. Representing the individual aesthetic of up-andcoming designers, the New Designer Gallery is conveniently located on the main aisle adjacent to The Galleria.

The New Designer Gallery participants confirmed to-date are: 2C2NV Aristos Eyewear Auxane Concept Delirious Faniel Eyewear Freida Rothman Henau Eyewear Couture Lara D Srl Lio Srl LOCH Oh My Glasses ONLYGOODFORMS Slave to Ancestors Stella Nova

Vision Expo is the complete event for ophthalmic professionals, where eyecare meets eyewear and education, fashion and innovation mingle. The Event takes place from 15-18 March 2018 at the JAVITS CENTER, NEW YORK. VisionExpo.com

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Available in prescription.

STYLE SHOWN: SWEPT AWAY

The view’s better from here.

Our lightweight PolarizedPlus2ÂŽ lenses are as flexible as you are, adapting to different light conditions while eliminating glare and enhancing colour. Try on a pair and see for yourself. Colour. Clarity. Detail.

/// ADVERTORIAL ///

ROLF SPECTACLES ‘Moving’ Technology

We are now - in the truest sense of the word - bringing natural movement into ROLF glasses: with the development of the award-winning ROLF FLEXLOCK hinge.

ALWAYS IN MOTION When timeless eyewear design meets innovative know-how ROLF Spectacles continues to enjoy an exciting and creative time, designing and manufacturing lightweight frames made from wood in their Tyrolean eyewear factory. New innovations include the new SILVER wood combination – and the latest models from the EVOLVED collection:

CHARMING VIEW Eyewear model Bug with its harmonious lines and delicate eyeglass rim gently flatters the face. A smart statement for a natural and stylish look.

NATURALLY ROUND The circular model Sprite is aimed at the lovers of pure minimalist design. Created for a timeless and cool appearance.

A NATURAL CHARMER Model Ace is deliberately restrained and yet elegant. A very subtle blend suited to soft facial features whilst conveying a natural authority in the style and colour.

A symbiosis of highly compressed wood and rubber. For a perfect and comfortable fit of your glasses. This is an innovative step forward for the flexibility of natural eyewear.

rolf-spectacles.com

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#frenkleaveyourmark

/// BRAND PROFILE ///

Gold & Wood: Super luxury A 40 minute drive from Luxembourg City lies the small town of Hosingen, home to the country’s first luxury eyewear company, Wood Optic Diffusion, creators of Gold & Wood. Founded in 1995 by Maurice Leonard, the small team of craftsmen and women create frames in a mix of noble materials - including wood, buffalo horn, gold, and silk - in a setting designed exclusively for exceptional craftsmanship by hand. Clodagh Norton visited Hosingen to meet Maurice Leonard, Founder and CEO.

What is your focus in the collection today in terms of materials, design features and details?

Our Spring/Summer 2018 collection takes our new creative direction forward. One and a half years ago we launched new design concepts with even more fine tuning as regards quality and design focus, under the guidance of brand manager Vanessa Di Giovanni, and this has achieved excellent feedback, opportunities and exciting growth in 2017.

Model GAIA 03.01

In our collection today, hand-painted silk is very much in the spotlight. We have seen much success with this material in our first women’s collection “Gaia”. For MIDO, we are introducing eyepieces for men in natural silk, adorned with patterns inspired

by Shibori, a Japanese ‘dyeing’ technique.

Maurice Leonard, Founder and CEO, Gold & Wood

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/// GOLD & WOOD ///

We work with a painter/artist for these unique silks which are also inspired by the work of Pierre Soulages, specifically his Outrenoir works.

To complete our offer of titanium and precious wood combinations, a new unisex concept is also being introduced, for those who love our models Titan and Orsay.

Model BORA 01.01

“The development of our eyepieces requires unique mastery and that demands a strict process. At Gold & Wood, we take time to make our exceptional eyepieces...”

New campaign 2018 - Model GAIA 04.01

with him previously for 15 years. We are looking forward to Alain Miklitarian’s contribution for further innovation and development of the brand image at a time of growth; this is an area in which he is very experienced.

How would you say the designs have evolved?

What are the traditional aspects of the frames that have not changed since the company was founded?

You have a distribution network across the globe.

Where are your key markets today and how would you say you are addressing the needs of these regions?

Gold & Wood represents tradition and unique know-how, developed since 1995. We have always worked with a very selective mix of noble materials and this remains an essential ingredient of our collection and its distinctive look. Over the years, we have developed new technologies, new combinations of materials, while constantly refining our style and comfort.

Our range is now appreciated by a wider audience, and we work in-depth to meet the demands of the millenials in search of a special ‘emotional’ purchase.

What never changes? The people and the know-how. Our master craftsmen and women have been by our side since the beginning of the adventure, and we grow and evolve together.

Our first market remains the United States. We have a strong presence and consistent recognition from the opticians there.

Of course, we are present in Europe, with particular success

Gold & Wood has announced participation of Alain Miklitarian as Artistic Director this year. How has this come about and how will you work together?

We have a common passion: high-end eyewear, a fascination for noble materials and luxury craftsmanship. Alain Miklitarian understands our exceptional products, their artistic value, and the current design direction under Vanessa, who has worked

Model B16 NEO 02.01

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/// BRAND PROFILE ///

in France and Benelux. In order to support our ‘optician’ ambassadors, we offer them a selective distribution which gives them exclusivity in a given territory.

Our brand ambassadors do outstanding work to provide the best for the customer. Our training programme is very technical and is based on the values of our brand, which we believe differentiates us from our competitors.

We help our customers to sell successfully and to increase their sales, whenever and wherever possible.

What is your perception of the luxury eyewear segment at the current time and its growth in general terms? How has the luxury eyewear segment changed?

The luxury segment in the Optical Industry is changing like other sectors, and perhaps more. With the new brand distribution of famous groups who work with licensed collections, we are witnessing a new configuration in which we – as an independent company - have to double our innovation whilst retaining our identity and core values.

Gold & Wood does not compromise and remains faithful to its international development strategy.

Our short- to medium-term goals are to maintain and improve, wherever possible, our level of craftsmanship in Luxembourg, as well as increasing our desirability to loyal consumers by adapting to new purchasing behaviour.

Luxury is changing, and millennials have a different, disruptive relationship with luxury accessories. We have already been catering to these changes for two years and we are ready to respond quickly to the new business model before us.

What do you have planned in 2018 that you can share?

As usual, we will participate in the most influential international exhibitions.

Personally, I plan to invest more time on the ground, in collaboration with our brand ambassadors, in order to bring consistent support during our Trunk Shows. I can promise other amazing events designed to help us stay close to our consumers and to grow our successes and the desirability of the product as it is today. gold-and-wood.com

Model B16 NEO 02.02

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The Giselle

The Roland

VISION EXPO EAST Galleria, G527

Bon Vivant, an Ogi Eyewear Brand ogieyewear.com | 1.888.560.1060

/// EDITORIAL ///

Left // Eyewear: OXIBIS / Shirt: Boboutic Right // Eyewear on man + woman: L.G.R / Man Shirt: Victor Victoria Trousers: Boboutic Shoes: Converse / Woman Shirt and trousers: Lucio Vanotti

/// IN THE ARTIST’S STUDIO ///

IN THE ARTIST’S STUDIO A surge of creativity and artistic nuances influence eyewear shapes, colours and new ideas in texture.

Photography Andrea Biondi Style Ilaria Chionna Hair and Make Up Elena Gentile Models Valeria Popova @ Woman Management Marc-Andrè Turgeon @ Fashion Model Management

/// EDITORIAL ///

Left // Eyewear: ULTRALIMITED / Chemisier: Vien // Right // Eyewear: PLEIN LES MIRETTES / Shirt: Lucio Vanotti

/// IN THE ARTIST’S STUDIO ///

Left // Eyewear: SALT. Optics / Shirt: Vicrot Victoria Trousers: Alysi Shoes: Converse // Right // Eyewear: MAUI JIM / Jacket: Alysi

/// EDITORIAL ///

/// IN THE ARTIST’S STUDIO ///

/// EDITORIAL ///

Left // Eyewear: AM EYEWEAR / Shirt: Vicrot Victoria // Right // Eyewear: NEUBAU / Dress: Giacobino

/// IN THE ARTIST’S STUDIO ///

Left // Eyewear: CABRIO made by YUNIKU / Jacket: Suoli // Right // Eyewear: FYSH UK / Dress: Federica Lamari

/// EDITORIAL ///

/// IN THE ARTIST’S STUDIO ///

/// EDITORIAL ///

Left // Eyewear: TRACTION PRODUCTIONS Jacket and skirt: Nina Leuca Shirt: Lucio Vanotti // Right // Eyewear: STATE OPTICAL Blouse: Alysi

/// IN THE ARTIST’S STUDIO ///

/// ADVERTORIAL ///

Metropolitan Eyewear Straight from the ‘80s The German brand Metropolitan Eyewear has rummaged through the archives of its parent company OWP and emerged triumphant with two genuine classics from the ’80s. Our key word? Vintage, not retro.

The benefits from over 70 years of experience in eyewear manufacturing allow the young brand Metropolitan to re-release former bestsellers from 1982 and 1983. Without changing the designs, the product development team carefully added a subtle branding and came up with fresh new colour concepts.

STYLE 8042 Delicate metal rims and an unusual, yet not affected lens shape give Style 8042 its special minimalistic character. Colours include gold-rosewood, cool black, palladium-midnight blue and mat turquoise, ensuring a wide spectrum of interpretations.

Style 8042 perfectly combines subtle classiness and casual fashion and declares itself the perfect accessory for the big city jungle.

STYLE 8258 Style 8258 features an impressive, cool acetate aviator shape with a milled double bridge that retains its authentic look in brushed steel grey. With a horizontal gradient from brown to caramel, umber to slate grey or simply in transparent light grey, this true original makes a clear, stylish statement.

Of course these stunning original designs got the campaign they deserve; Portland based photographer Robbie Augspurger, well known for his artistic old-school photography did an amazing ’80s portrait campaign for Metropolitan styles 8042 and 8258. robbieaugspurger.com Metropolitan Eyewear is eyewear for individualists. A collection for people who have both feet on the ground and their heads in the air. They don’t ask what’s nice, what’s right or what’s of the highest quality. They just know. metropolitan-eyewear.com

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/// EDITORIAL ///

EDUCATION MARCH 15-18 EXHIBIT HALL MARCH 16-18 JAVITS CENTER NEW YORK CITY

EVERYTHING VISION. BECAUSE VISION IS EVERYTHING. RE GIS TE R N OW

Bring your vision to New York—the city where things change in the blink of an eye—for the event of the year, where eyecare meets eyewear, and education, fashion and innovation mingle.

YOUR VISION. YOUR WORLD—VISION EXPO. BROUGHT TO YOU BY

PROUD SUPPORTER OF

PRODUCED BY

V I S I ONE XPO.COM /N Y C # V I S I ONE XPO

www.oxibis.com •

oxibis.lunettes

©OxibisGroup 2017 - Registered brand - Pictures may differ from actual product - All rights reserved

/// TRENDS ///

Gamine launches a line of ‘Pret-acouture’ frames, designed to function not only with corrective lenses but also to be worn as a fashion accessory, blurring the lines between necessity and style. The collection encapsulates the essence of a contemporary, creative and young brand from their colour palettes to avant-garde frame shapes. gamine.nyc

lushed e warm b shion to s e th g in embrac g from fa everythin re. Pantone even tones in wa for nd home the year textiles a olour of c ir r e u th lo o d c e a announc Violet’ – es e ‘Ultra e mysteri h ‘t t n 2018 to b e s re p t re a h m to of w they dee intrigue d mos, the s es beyon o ri c e e v o th c is of d e th d, and lies ahea .’ e are now eading into the w where h e ’r e w s tasy it seem , o S ream fan nd -c e f ic o n k a n r, li u b ith a yellow a violet ho d pass w , vanilla ial s rl n k o n ill w in le p n il y io m fash , or rs that w of prett ithin the s – colou pale pink way m c w f e o ra la s g d li s th s n ta s d e e s u e n tr v e In luscio has pa er our Colour ervasiv v . p ty o s e ri s g e la th in u in t k p u tt b ta pre s po soon be an eye – closets. coloured nt, and it sweets; , and our s ll appare of pastel o e ti e n tr s v li re a is e , w m te k ti pin for a new y of your favouri ith designers urtes ts, w o le c s io e v m a o parm on c arts and Inspirati Love He

/// TRENDS ///

Pinks, pastels, and lilacs

by Zoe Cosby

01 / VERA WANG

MODEL: V466 From the Vera Wang main line sun collection, the acetate and metal V466 style offers a statement round eye shape in a stunning array of patterned colours, with the effect of a “watercolour”. Pictured in peacock with a soft gradient blue lens. Vera Wang Eyewear is produced by Kenmark. kenmarkeyewear.com

02 / KIRK & KIRK

MODEL: ANNA With a reputation as the ‘Kings of colour’, British brand Kirk & Kirk launch a new collection; Spectrum. Their ability to play with colour through design is signature to the brand and this Berry colourway is no exception. kirkandkirk.com

03 / PLEIN LES MIRETTES MODEL: DIVA X

Explosive, sublime and unique, Diva by Plein Les Mirettes is a fantastic example of the brands dynamic approach to shape and colour.

The strength of the silhouette contrasts beautifully with the soft blushed shade of pink. plein-les-mirettes.fr

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/// TRENDS ///

04 / BLACKFIN

MODEL: CAMDEN BF762 Blackfin Skin has a bas-relief pattern carved onto the front of the frame, a revolutionary technique that photoengraves the titanium to produce a light yet solid woven effect. The two- tone colour combination of purple and brown highlights this specialist technique and creates a play of symmetries. blackfin.eu

06 / YUICHI TOYAMA

05 / ANDY WOLF

MODEL: 5079 Taken from the Soul Collection, Andy Wolf showcases an uncharacteristically classic frame. The soft oval shape is contemporary yet casual, and the delicate transparent green offers something different and on point. andy-wolf.com

07 / L.G.R

MODEL: US 009 Model US-009 from the USH collection has a delicate butterfly shape and distinctive pink surround between the lens and the framework. USH by Yuichi Toyama was launched in 2017.

The collection interprets traditional aesthetics of structure and colour, adding modern touches. yuichitoyama.com

MODEL: KEREN SUPERLEGGERO The pale pink version of model Keren is light and feminine, with very fine gold metal arms on the translucent acetate front. The Superleggero line from L.G.R is a new addition that explores very fine lightweight aesthetics. 100% handmade in Italy. lgrworld.com

08 / TRUSSARDI (DE RIGO)

MODEL: STR 213 The 2018 collection continues to represent the values of Trussardi yet offers an awareness of the forms and fashions of the future. Combining classic lines with irregular shapes and neutral hues with exclusive acetate textures, such as aluminium and carbon gives the collection a unique elegance with a nod to the spirit of the 70’s. en.eyewear.trussardi.com

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/// RETAILING ///

Supporting a cause, across the community The industry is giving back for a good cause. Optical retailers, eyewear brands and leading trade fairs and eyecare organisations are raising money and awareness for a variety of causes, ranging from eye health and prevention of sight loss charities to essential vision screenings for kids in need.

20/20 Europe looked at how they will help in 2018.

Social actions, eco issues, sustainable commitments and participation in charity projects offering much needed help for others have become a part of our daily lives. These causes are influential, and even in a time of economic uncertainly, they continue to attract valuable support from all age groups across Europe.

In the optical retail community, support is ongoing amongst opticians and their patients as regards national eyecare charities and non-profit organisations such as Orbis International, Fight for Sight (UK) and Sightsavers. As well as involvement in charity events and support via donations, opticians are doing their bit by taking part in a whole range of fundraising activities annually, successful involving customers of all ages.

Raising awareness in 2018: 100% Optical Norwegian brand Karmoie donates to projects in Africa with Eyejusters, specially-devised corrective glasses that can be adjusted for different prescriptions.

Karmoie frames (above) are made from eco-friendly M49.

The UK’s 100% Optical, the optical fair in London, has pledged its support for the Big Blind Walk 2018, in collaboration with VisionBridge, to help stop sight loss in its tracks. Sponsored

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/// RETAILING ///

by 100% Optical and Second Sight and supported by official partner National Eye Research Centre and a range of organisations with an interest in sight loss and eye health, the 1,000 mile walk from Land’s End to John O’Groats commences on 29th April for seven weeks and aims to raise awareness and understanding of sight loss, promote eye research and create a new fund for translational research. Opticians and the general public in the UK are invited to visit www.bigblindwalk.com to join the walk through their home town or make a donation.

BLACKFIN collaborates with Andrea Bocelli and a host of global stars who take part in Celebrity Fight Night Italy – an annual fundraising event on behalf of the educational projects of the Andrea Bocelli Foundation and the Muhammad Ali Parkinson Center.

Image: Celebrity Fight Night Italy 2016

testing materials along with the Eyejusters glasses to make sure the testing and distribution works smoothly.”

Karmoie is also a member of Positive Luxury, a platform for positive living and brands involved in social and environmental actions.

Other leaders in this area include Italian label MODO, a company that is fully committed to a range of programmes of social responsibility and runs a “BUY A FRAME HELP A CHILD SEE” initative which provides vision screenings, prescription frames and sight-saving surgery. The company works with Seva, the global nonprofit eye care organization that transforms lives and strengthens communities by restoring sight and preventing blindness. Since 1978, Seva has helped nearly 4 million people regain their sight in more than 20 countries. Seva trains local eye care providers and develops self-sustaining eye programs around the world.

Zoobug’s Dr Julie Diem Le at the Flying Eye Hospital. Zoobug donates kids frames to Orbis.

Eyewear companies - sight-saving for children and adults

MODO’s sister brand ECO is committed to the program ONE FRAME – ONE TREE, in partnership with the NGO Trees for the Future. ECO® has donated and planted a tree for every frame sold. So far, ECO® has planted over 1.5 million trees.

Eyewear companies are lending support to and providing much needed publicity for causes that have an immediate link with charitable eyecare projects. They include Tom Davies and Zoobug London in the UK, both supporters of ORBIS, the international non-profit nongovernmental organization (NGO) dedicated to saving sight worldwide through programmes which focus on the prevention of blindness and the treatment of blinding eye diseases in developing countries.

Similarly, Norwegian brand Karmoie has donated to several projects in Africa. For every pair of sunglasses the Karmoie customer purchases, a pair of eyejusters is donated to one of the projects. “In each project we work with a different local organisation which takes responsibility to administer the vision tests and distribute the Eyejuster glasses,” explains the company. “Every organisation running a project is also given guides, training instructions and

At MODO, the BUY A FRAME – HELP A CHILD SEE program works to provide the early detection and intervention necessary for children in need to look clearly toward a brighter future

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/// RETAILING ///

neubau supports a variety of projects through their SEE&DO GOOD campaign. This includes a partnership with The Honeybee Conservancy which empowers communities with the tools, education and bees needed to sustain local agriculture. It is a project of Social & Environmental Entrepreneurs.

Respect for the environment In optics, a growing number of brands are identifying ways to focus on sustainability and environmental issues. Alongside the use of the ecofriendly material naturalPX in their eyewear, neubau from Austria has launched a SEE&DO GOOD project.

The brand supports concepts that show consideration to the environment including a tree planting programme in Vienna, cooperation with a bee conservancy in New York City, and a collaboration with gabarage, an upcycling firm where new and useful products are created from used materials.

The Danish company MonkeyGlasses, founded in 2010, is also a committed exponent of social responsibility and sustainability. They are committed supporters of a centre in Trivandrum,

A new campaign from MonkeyGlasses for the new Trust Collection, launched this year: “The Trust Collection was created with care and consideration for our planet, and the people involved in making our glasses….” Mai-Britt Seaton

India, where old glasses are donated to people in need as well as donating to the wildlife cause that helps protect the orangutans of Borneo, www.savetheorangutan.org.

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MIDO - HALL 2 STAND R32

www.xaviergarcia.design

/// DESIGNER LIFE ///

DESIGNER LIFE

NINA MÛR Independent production, high quality, sustainable materials, innovation and craftsmanship. Nina Mûr is a Madrid based eyewear label, specializing in design concepts that go beyond the passing trends.

Creatives Lorena Serrano and Davide Fichera are the owners of Fikera & Quiche agency and the founders of NINA MÛR. Nina Mûr goes Memphis: created in honour of Ettore Sottsass’s 100th anniversary, Nina Mûr eyewear has presented a collection in collaboration with Abet Laminati, inspired by the colours and formal shapes of the artistic movements of the 1980s.

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/// DESIGNER LIFE ///

Serrano has a background is Creative and Art Direction, Graphic Design and Digital Marketing and Content.

Fichera trained in Architecture and Product Design.

Serrano comes from a family of opticians and has spent her life with glasses somewhere nearby. Since she was young, she has helped her mother spot the trends and the interesting independent brands. Due to her passion for this accessory and her vocation for design, it was just a matter of time before Nina Mûr was born.

With a degree in Marketing and a master’s degree in Creativity and Art Direction, at Nina Mûr, Serrano is in charge of the creative direction and the design of the glasses.

Model Nathalie in pale pink and black – Nina Mûr goes Memphis

“Davide has the gift of being able to realize what I am thinking. He was brought up in a furniture factory owned by his grandfather, and he has always been surrounded by people working in the wood and interior design industry. He studied Architecture in Florence. Nowadays he works as a graphic designer as well as an industrial designer.

For Davide, design is not only about creating something on paper or on screen, but also about producing something and making it “reproducible”.

My mother started working as an optician more than 35 years ago and my sister became an optician too. They run two optical shops in Madrid - Optica Alohe.

I remember going to the fairs with my mother when I was really young. I also love drawing so I was always “scribbling” crazy frames.”

“We have a baby boy named Luca, who is nearly one.

I love being with him to discover his personality, to be there while he is getting bigger and to see how he is developing. Playing with him, tickling him and seeing his smile is everything. I love making him laugh!”

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/// DESIGNER LIFE ///

“Fikera & Quiche is an independent creative agency and another element of the work we do. The concept was born out of a love for doing things well, always with a degree of experimentation. We provide consultancy for brands. The main fields we work in are Creative Direction, Graphic Design, Digital Content and Environmental Design. We specialize in fashion, lifestyle and retail. At the agency, we have two key concepts: Communication: we work to make brands memorable and visible, with high standards of quality and absolute dedication.

Experimental Studio: we have an in-house R+D space equipped for testing, investigating and crafting, ideal for experimentation and learning.

Both concepts feed each other and both evolve together.”

“In January at OPTI, we won the Blogger Spectacle Award for best newcomer: it has been an amazing experience. We couldn’t believe it! For us this represents recognition of our work and the particular product we have presented in wood. It is a fantastic response from the optical industry. We really want to say thank you!”

Nina Mûr has created hand-painted glasses exclusively for the ThyssenBornemisza Museum, created with the artist Gala Fernandez

Nina Mûr + Brianda F. J. Stuart: the brand created a limited edition with Brianda F. J. Stuart featuring the artist’s elegant marbling technique handpainted on wood. The colour palette is bold, vibrant and fresh, inspired by “A Portuguesa” by Robert Delaunay

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Hall 6, Booth F19

www.frankcustom.com Belgium . Luxembourg Germany . Switzerland . Austria Scandinavia . Finland . Iceland

TEL +82 70 4390 9705 TEL +32 19 51 12 20 TEL +49 2431 806 58 TEL +46 300 566 386

worldtrend33@gmail.com info@duchesne-optic.be g.wolf@wolf-continental.com se@noxe.se

www.area98.it

MIDO 2018 | HALL 2 | BOOTH R50 R45 S50

/// VIEW FROM THE US ///

Being an editor has its perks, but travel is probably one of the best ones, especially when we go to international trade shows. This month, I return to Milan to attend my third MIDO exhibition. It was only two years ago when I wrote a column about visiting Milan for the first time. That was my first trip to Italy, and I couldn’t have been more excited.

Our flight landed early that morning, and after checking in to our hotel and having a light breakfast, my colleagues who attended the trip with me all retired to their rooms to catch up on sleep. I’m never able to sleep on flights so needless to say I was exhausted. Despite my jet-lagged state, it was the only free day I had—the next two days were going to be spent at the show and at events related to the show.

I was determined to not let the day go to waste—I knew I wasn’t going to be able to swing a full day of sightseeing, but I wanted to at least get out of our hotel and walk the streets of Milan. So, with a foggy head and comfortable walking shoes, I ventured out to the streets. When visiting a new city, whether it’s here in the States or abroad, seeing its famous sights might be the top thing to do but I also love getting a taste of the local flavor, and the best way to experience that is by hitting the streets.

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With Google maps as my guide, I set out for a walk. In my jet-lagged yet energized state, I window shopped and browsed and ducked into shops of all kinds—shoe stores, clothing boutiques, cosmetics shops, etc. Like New York City, Milan is a bustling metropolis, which makes for good people watching.

As someone who pays close attention to fashion and style trends both from a work and personal sense, I always keep my eyes open to what the locals are wearing during my travels. NYC might be a fashion capital of the world but Milan rightfully claims that title as well. I always knew fashion and style are in Italian blood but I was blown away witnessing firsthand how stylish the people are here, especially the women. There was an effortless sophistication in their styling, and confidence projected in what they wore, whether it be a statement coat, sleek tailored pants, a classic pair of high heeled pumps and of course, a chic pair of frames. I continued to see such fabulous style during the next few days at MIDO. Great eyewear was everywhere, not just on display at eyewear booths but on the faces of show attendees from Italy and other parts of Europe and the world. All this of course makes MIDO the ultimate spot for international trend spotting and just in time as 20/20 gears up for a new season of eyewear trends. As always, we’re ready to share our sights and “seens” with our friends stateside and with the rest of the world. So be sure to follow us along for the ride via Facebook and Instagram at 2020mag.

Christine Yeh 20/20 Executive Editor cyeh@jobson.com

94 - INTERVIEW

// CONTACT LENSES //

// POLYRAY, the sun lens company //

// EQUIPMENT //

by Ester Alonso

98-102 - NEW PRODUCTS AND INNOVATIONS // LENSES // ESSILOR SUN SOLUTION x PECLERS PARIS with MAZZUCCHELLI 1849

SAFILENS

ZEISS Visufit 1000 Ocusweep launch MEI EzFit No Block Developer

104 - CONTINUING EDUCATION

TRANSITIONS OPTICAL Fashion Chrome Lenses

// BLUE LIGHT REFOCUSED - SEPARATING SCIENCE FROM SPECULATION // part 2

BETA OPTIK Mobile Lenses

By Gary Morgan

RODENSTOCK Impression FreeSign® PRO

/// EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY ///

POLYRAY,

the sun lens company “Thinking ahead, making changes every day�

Polyray, the sun lens company, is experiencing its best moment of success in the company history. The second generation has stepped in with new innovative ideas and a modern way of thinking, while taking a global view of the countless new challenges of the market and leading the company towards future-oriented solutions and services. Chen Yu-Hsiang, CEO of Polyray, explains in this interview the successes of the present and his plans for the future.

Interview by Ester Alonso

Chen Yu-Hsiang, CEO of Polyray

Polyray is a company that has been manufacturing lenses for three decades. What defines the company? What is the DNA of its products?

and providing more constructive dialogue and customized service with a wide range of partners who have different tastes and needs, all over the world.

With more than three decades of dedication and profession in the sun lens industry, our biggest competitive advantage is our vertically-integrated business model, which connects the entire value chain to be a leading position in the market: design, product development, manufacturing, marketing and sales along with the National accredited laboratory, allowing fast reaction to market change

The lenses are our focus. Each design uniquely reflects our experience, passion, innovation and creativity which unquestionably are at the core of the DNA of our brand. The way we work with and imagine new combinations strongly contributes to the originality of our designs.

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In which markets does Polyray currently operate? Where do

/// INTERVIEW ///

HQ Polyray

With a spirit of excellence in Polyray’s business, each collection and each pair of lenses is the result of an ongoing R&D process that harmonizes passion, innovation and creativity with the cutting-edge technology.

you have a more significant presence?

The main production plant is based in China, now we are present in four continents and over 40 countries, and we work consistently with the Fashion, Luxury, Sport and Military sectors, including leading eyewear brands and groups, individual designers, lens importers and material suppliers across the world. Thanks to all the resources we have accumulated from our experiences and the perfect location here in Asia, the company gains more insights not only for international communication but also for the fast growing Asian markets, to solidify its position in every market where it operates.

What is the engine that drives Polyray’s innovation?

With a spirit of excellence in Polyray’s business, each collection and each pair of lenses is the result of an ongoing R&D process that harmonizes passion, innovation and creativity with the cutting-edge technology.

Polyray works with 5,000+ colour and pattern references for fashion eyewear. As for Sport, each sport has a functional need with a mix of technology for specific usage condition, for instance, polarization, photochromic, anti-fog and colour enhancing. With unparalleled expertise in lens manufacturing, Polyray has great experience in improving optical performance and develop the best solutions for the customers’ needs.

‘Thinking ahead, making changes everyday’- this is the primary driving force which leads us to think differently and act fast. Polyray has always been active in Research & Product Development, from raw material to lens technology. We have invested and engaged the automation systems in the factories since 2014 in order to offer exclusive, comprehensive services with highly technical and stylistic quality products for our customers.

At the present time, what are Polyray’s flagship products?

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/// EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY ///

What could you tell us about the next edition of Mido? How will Polyray be represented in this edition of the Italian fair?

Mido has always been the most exciting fair for us to launch our new collection and to meet our partners from all over the world. In Mido 2018, first we will surprise the visitors with a whole new brand image and booth design. Our new fashion portfolios will continue to intensify the wearer’s experience of colour, shape and contrast.

How do you see the future of sun lenses? Where is Polyray projected?

The future can be easily concluded with the slogan of our brand – ‘1 lens. couple functions. ∞ visions’ – we believe that the possibilities of sun lenses are infinite. What makes us different from others is that we are curious, open-minded and imaginative towards our own creation - we will never cease to continue defining future standards in the sun lens business and to protect and enhance the eyes of people by developing innovative solutions that allow people to see better, look better, perform better and most importantly, to feel better.

POLYRAY / MIDO 2018 – Hall 3 Booth H38 hongtaig.com

Colour inspiration and research & development at Polyray HQ

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/// EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY ///

NEW PRODUCTS A Lens Trends

ESSILOR SUN SOLUTION x PECLERS PARIS with MAZZUCCHELLI 1849 Fashion Collection Announced The Spring/Summer 2019 fashion collection is the result of Essilor Sun Solution’s no ordinary partnership with Peclers Paris, the trend-forecasting agency. This year, the collaboration includes additional valuable contribution from Mazzucchelli 1849, the world’s trendsetting acetate producers in Italy.

The trends presented: NO FILTER “No filter” embodies the desire to break free from the dictates of picture perfect beauty. It stands for acceptance of one’s imperfections, fluidity and sensuality.

MODERN STANDARD “Modern standard” expresses the need to reinvent a shared society, improving daily life and making it a more gentle place to be. The emphasis is on the content and the message, allowing for a pragmatic, functional re-design of style...

MEDITERRANEAN FEELING The richness and diversity of the Mediterranean culture. The subtle mix and match of “modesty and grandiloquence”, and heritage and modernity, call for “mythical leisure and sunny conviviality”. essilor-sunsolution.com

Inspiration for Spring/Summer 2019 The specialist team has interpreted three main trends. For each trend, new colours and cutting-edge triple-gradients reveal know-how and style. Designed to meet increasing expectations for a stylish appearance, the special effects have been developed combining the new colour creations and E-SUNTM MAGICOATTM technology.

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/// INNOVATIONS ///

AND INNOVATIONS Lenses

RODENSTOCK

Impression FreeSign® PRO

Rodenstock introduced the premium lens Impression FreeSign® PRO to the market at Munich’s trade fair, opti. Impression FreeSign® PRO combines innovative Rodenstock technologies, materials as well as exclusive services and, according to the makers, provides the spectacles wearer with an outstanding vision experience and hence the highest satisfaction. The new progressive lens benefits from a range of outstanding properties including: sharp vision with new DNEye® PRO technology; maximum visual zones thanks to Rodenstock’s patented Eye Lens Technology (EyeLT®), and the best light protection through the new high-tech material PRO410 which filters the incident light and thereby protects the eyes against potentially harmful, high-energy blue light.

The market launch is accompanied by a variety of marketing measures that clearly focus on the product’s benefits. The optician benefits from the optimised consulting effort and a higher probability of making a sale from the offer of a premium, all-round carefree lens. rodenstock.com

Lenses

TRANSITIONS OPTICAL

Fashion Chrome Lenses

The new Fashion Chrome lens features a mirrored effect combined with Transitions’ XTRActive lens technology – which protects the eyes from the brightest sun and harsh artificial light. It also allows the lenses to darken behind the windscreen of a car.

The lenses have an adaptive tint that reacts to UV and small part of visible light, intensifying when the user moves from indoors to outdoors. When indoors, the lens has a fashion-led slight mirrored tint, which turns into a full mirrored sunglass outdoors, allowing the wearer to have the right tint at the right time. Six colour options are now available.

Like Style Colours – launched in early 2017 -, the new ‘Fashion Chrome lenses activated by Transitions’ aim to bring Transitions to a younger, more style-conscious and fashion-led individual.

wlclens.co.uk for the UK / transitions.com

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/// EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY ///

Lenses

BETA OPTIK

Mobile Lens Options

Showing this month at MIDO, BETA OPTIK mobile lenses are designed to allow the wearer to focus in the digital world. The SMART ADD feature is offered for electronic gadget users, making it easy to adapt during fast progressions in all distances.

According to the company, this offers unmatched clarity when using smart phones, tablets and all other digital devices.

Options include TRION Individual 3D Mobile – a personalised progressive providing wide visual field in near, middle and high distances and a smooth transition and Asfera Mobile, a personalised single vision, high resolution lens enhanced with Digital Ray-Path technology. betaoptik.com/en/

Contact Lenses

for asthenopia and features an ingenious design called D-Stress, based, in turn, on the acclaimed afocal lens design patented by Safilens and initially introduced in the presbyopia segment. The new D-Stress geometry offers enhanced depth of field and is designed to reduce eye strain commonly associated with daily activities that over-stress proximal vision, like the prolonged use of digital devices typical of many people’s lives today. The controlled release of natural substitutes for the tear film from the lens to the eye surface ensures long-lasting comfort in dry environments, like air-conditioned offices or when blinking is reduced in frequency or is incomplete (symptoms of CVS – Computer Vision Syndrome).

Germany has long been a pivotal market for Safilens, where, since July 2017, the company has worked with MPG&E, the exclusive distributor of its products in the region. The company reported a successful event in Germany and looks forward to rolling out the product in other parts of Europe in the months ahead.

SAFILENS

Fusion 1Day Vista

The new fusion 1day vista by Safilens made its debut at OPTI in Munich in January. fusion 1day vista is the first daily contact lens

safilens.com

Equipment

ZEISS

VISUFIT 1000

In January 2018, ZEISS unveiled the ZEISS VISUFIT 1000, a platform for digital determination of 3D centration data, at the opti trade show in Munich. In the future, this system will be expanded to include additional modules. ZEISS VISUFIT 1000 will first be available in Germany and Central Europe, and will then be rolled out for all ZEISS partners worldwide.

ZEISS VISUFIT 1000 supports ZEISS partners in providing consumers with a pair of glasses perfectly fitted to their needs.

Good vision requires more than just the right prescription lenses, explains the company. It is also crucial that the lenses are properly centered in the frame and in relation to the eyes.

Back in 1992, ZEISS launched ZEISS Video Infral, the first video centration system. Therefore, ZEISS is a forerunner to the digitalization of centration data determination. The latest development, ZEISS VISUFIT 1000, stands for precision and speed. In the future, it will be possible to expand ZEISS VISUFIT

1000 platform with modules for trying on glasses virtually and for customized frame designs.

Thus, ZEISS is offering a system today that will also accommodate the greater customization and digitalization consumers demands tomorrow. This is possible thanks to more than 20 years of expertise in the area of centration data determination and intensive research and development involving an interdisciplinary team of experts from throughout the company. zeiss.com

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ESSILOR® SUN SOLUTION™ is a trademark of Essilor International. © Essilor International – 2018. mayflower - www.agencemayflower.com. Photo: DMKF.

2019

SUMMER COLLECTION

w w w. e s s i l o r- s u n s o l u t i o n . c o m

OCUSWEEP

VISION ISN’T JUST ABOUT SEEING Over a decade ago, the one-dimensionality of vision testing was something that troubled Finnish vision researcher, eye doctor and Doctor of Medicine, Markku Leinonen.

To Leinonen, Vision wasn’t just about seeing. It was much more than just measuring how well we could see at certain distances. It was about how well we were able to move, react and read. It was from these initial insights that the idea behind Ocusweep started to form. Ocusweep is now a reality - a device that brings technology and data to vision testing, meeting what the company says was an unmet need for a new platform. The device includes tests for visual acuity, contrast sensitivity, visual fields assessment and reaction time testing. Tests can be carried out in binocular or monocular.

Most of the testing takes place with the patient sitting in front of the device, which uses an app and iPad mini for all tests apart from visual fields assessments. The patient makes selections using two joypad style buttons and for distance visual acuity testing, a controller similar to a Nintendo Wii remote.

20/20 Europe tried Ocusweep at the 100% Optical trade show in London recently and was struck by just how fun the testing was. Through a mixture of the joypad controls and the software, the tests were enjoyable and unlike many other pieces of equipment, was completely non-invasive. After testing, two reports are generated, one for the Eye Care Professional with in depth results for future guidance and another report for the patient, which outlines what each test looks to achieve and what the results mean for the health of their eyes. ocusweep.com

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/// EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY ///

Machinery

MEI

EzFit No Block Developer

MEI continues its efforts to penetrate the retail sector by promoting its milling technology to small labs and shops and by showcasing EzFit No Block Developer, one of its most successful compact solutions, at Mido 2018.

EzFit No Block Developer is an EzFit No Block machine featuring an integrated Shape Finder that makes it possible to create jobs right in the machine. It represents an important achievement for MEI in giving small labs and retail stores the opportunity to carry out ophthalmic lens edging without blocks (until now this was only possible with high-output MEI machinery designed for large-scale companies).

Thanks to the No Block module, EzFit can automatically carry out error-free lens centering without blocks.

The No Block includes a lensmeter, Blockless centering system for single vision, bifocal and progressive lenses, and automatic machine loading/unloading with a dual loading arm. This module allows the next lens to be loaded while the machine is edging the previous lens and, in combination with EzFit, enables the machine operator to correctly position the lens without any specific optical skills and automatically compensating for any errors. The operator simply positions the lens under a centering system that centers and removes the lens to introduce it in the

cutting chamber.

Based on TBA (Throw the Block Away) technology, the No Block system streamlines the workflow and makes it even more competitive for small labs and retail stores.

“Industrial companies have stopped using centering blocks for some time now and we thought it was important to offer this benefit to smaller companies as well”, commented MEI’s CEO and Technical Director, Stefano Sonzogni. meisystem.com

Ready for a

new perspective?

High performance plastics for optical applications

Using its TROGAMID®, Evonik makes eyewear “purple” – the color of the year 2018. www.trogamid.com

/// ADVERTORIAL ///

IDEAL presents new MINI hinge “The smallest flex hinge on the market” Ideal, the Italian specialists in distinctive eyewear components ranging from the latest trends to classic, vintage inspired silhouettes, launches the new MINI flex hinge, the perfect design for sleek, minimal eyewear styles.

In line with trends, and this year’s return to thinner and sleeker ‘tailored eyewear’, IDEAL launches their new MINI hinge, the smallest hidden spring hinge, measuring just 2.9mm.

Conceived as a special small hinge for injection-moulded frames with pre-assembled mechanism, the MINI offers the flexibility and functionality of a spring hinge and is expertly designed to stand the test of time. IDEAL strives for excellence in performance, and behind its products lies Italian quality and commitment to research and innovation.

Ideal was founded in the 1970s to produce flex hinges for the eyewear sector. The Italian identity of the products and the company’s industrial craftsmanship have not changed over time. All parts are 100% Made in Italy.

IDEAL is located in Quero Vas (BL), in the eyewear district, where it develops its entire production on site, in a factory of 11.000 square feet.

The new hinge is available in three different sizes – 2.9, 3.5 and 4.5mm offering excellent flexibility for all frame sizes.

The smallest size – the 2.9 mm version, is the smallest hinge mechanism now available on the market.

Features include: the smallest size is suitable for very slim temples of 5mm the largest size is designed for wide temples of up to 18mm the mechanism is easy to assemble with pressure. This is a key advantage to save time and costs on assembly during production.

ideal.it

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/// EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY ///

BLUE LIGHT REFOCUSED SEPARATING SCIENCE FROM SPECULATION

By Gary Morgan OD First published in 20/20 USA

Part 2

The first part of this feature appeared in the January issue 2018 of 20/20 Europe

BLUE LIGHT AND NON-VISUAL FUNCTION With the discovery of intrinsically photosensitive retinal ganglion cells (ipRGCs) in 2002, it has been shown that light travels to all areas of the brain, not just the visual cortex. In terms of blue light, several studies point to wavelengths between 459-484 nm as having the most effect on ipRGC function. Although research on these cells and their function is still in its infancy, it is understood that ipRGCs exert some degree of control over circadian, pupillary light reflex, and neurobehavioral response.

ipRGCs contain the photopigment melanopsin, which absorbs light and is vital to their function. Melanopsin is the key component of non-image forming pathways, which on a species level are more primitive than rod and cone visual systems. This allows for non-visual sensing of light needed for survival. In humans, ipRGCs are the first photoresponsive cells of the retina to develop, capable of detecting light embryonically. They are also some of the last retinal neurons to die, with photoreceptors (rods and cones) being more susceptible to degenerations and disease such as glaucoma, diabetes, and AMD.

CIRCADIAN RHYTHM

Figure 4: Blue light incident on ipRGCs, whether from natural sunlight or artificial sources, sends a signal along the retinohypothalamic tract to the suprachiasmatic nucleus, the body’s internal clock.

In response to this blue light stimulation, the SCN signals the pineal gland to suppress melatonin secretion, evoking wakefulness. In the absence of blue light, which has historically been in the evening, the SCN would signal the pineal gland to secrete melatonin, allowing for sleep.

108

Circadian rhythm can be thought of as regulating our sleep – wake cycle.

Historically, human exposure to blue light at night was relatively low. Daytime exposure to blue light, would trigger our internal clock to suppress melatonin secretion, keeping us alert and awake.

As evening would fall, lack of blue light would allow for secretion of melatonin with subsequent onset of sleep (Figure 4). However with advancements in technology, our evening exposure to blue light is at levels never before experienced by mankind. Electronic screens on our smartphones, tablets, and computers, as well as LED and CFL light bulbs, all emit light 459-484 nm

/// EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY ///

Figure 5: When exposed to bright light stimulus, the pupil rapidly constricts initially, which is primarily cone mediated (although rods also contribute).

This transient response is followed by an escape phase, then is sustained by a combination of cones, rods and ipRGCs yielding a persistent response until the light stimulus is removed.

blue light affecting ipRGC function.

Studies show we are all sleeping less than previous generations, and our technology boom of the last 10 years is feeding into this.

PUPILLARY LIGHT RESPONSE When exposed to a bright light, the pupil rapidly constircts (Figure 5).

This fast initial constriction is largely mediated through the visual pathway, and is predominantly driven by cone photoreceptors.

After this initial fast phase of constriction, the smaller pupil size is sustained by a combination of the light adapted cones, along with a steady-state ipRGC response.

This response is maintained until the light source is removed, and the pupil dilates back to its normal size.

NEUROBEHAVIORAL ASPECTS OF BLUE LIGHT Research continues to evolve on ipRGC function showing blue light’s effect on neurobehavioral aspects of conditions such as mood, depression, addictive behavior, and pain avoidance. For instance, seasonal affective disorder (SAD) has been linked to human mutations of melanopsin contained within ipRGCs. SAD is associated with mood and physiological changes evident in winter months for some individuals. These changes are due to shorter daylight hours, thus less exposure to natural blue light.

Therapies using long blue wavelength light (460-500 nm) have been successful in helping to relieve symptoms.

BLUE LIGHT ATTENUATING LENSES, SPECTRAL TRANSMITTANCE CURVES The first thing one must look to when deciding the merits of a blue light-attenuating lens is its spectral transmittance curve (Figure 6). This is akin to knowing components

110

and side effects of a drug, we must know what we are prescribing. An important point to remember is that lenses do not block a fixed percentage of blue light.

The percentage of light blocked is wavelength specific. So while a specific lens may attenuate 80 percent of blue light at 405 nm, that same lens may also attenuate 10 percent of light at 440 nm.

It would be disingenuous to claim that this lens blocks, say, 40 percent of blue light; clearly it does not (Figure 7).

TYPES OF BLUE LIGHTATTENUATING LENSES While blue light-attenuating lenses represent a new category, some components of them have been around for many years. Lets take a look at the avaialble catagories and how each one works.

Infused lens materials have pigments or dyes added to the lens monomer absorb blue light. They provide attenuation along entire blue light range, with their strongest effects at the shortest wavelengths. Some have a characteristic yellow coloration. New generations of

/// EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY ///

BLUE LIGHT AND LENS PRODUCT INFERENCES

Figure 6: Hypothetical transmittance curve of a lens that attenuates 50 percent of light (area above the curve), and transmits 50 percent of light (area below the curve). Note that attenuation can be achieved through reflectance, absorption, or a combination of both.

Figure 7: Hypothetical transmittance curve of a blue light filtering lens. Note that the amount of light attenuated is varies by wavelength, it is not a fixed percentage.

infused lenses are nearly clear in appearance. Masking dyes are used to offset yellow coloration. However, this may result in dips in transmittance from 480-550 nm, which may affect both visual performance as well as ipRGC function. Whether this effect on visual and nonvisual function of retinal photoreceptors is significant is currently unknown.

Lens coatings reflect blue light by inducing selectively disruptive light interference.

This induces a characteristic purple to bluish color in these lenses, and they have a modest effect on the shortest blue light wavelengths.

Multifunctional lens coatings both absorb and reflect blue light through the use of both multi-layer thin film coatings combined with rare earth compounds and minerals. They have a significant effect on shortest blue light wavelengths associated with visual strain and fatigue.

The cosmetic appearance of theses lenses is moderated due to combination of absorptive and reflective characteristics, resulting in a mild blue coloration.

Photochromic lenses provide variable blue light attenuation depending on their adaptive state. Photochromic nanoparticles “unfold� when exposed to UV, absorbing blue light, blocking UV, and appearing colorful. When the UV source is removed, the nanoparticles gradually return to their original state and appear colorless, however they retain some of their blue light absorptive properties.

With over 100 blue light attenuating lenses available, it is impossible to present all of their transmittance curves in this article. Eyecare providers should embrace the use of transmittance curves; we should know what we are prescribing. However, while some companies readily supply this information, others do not.

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The explosive growth of the blue lightattenuating lens market over the last five years has brought with it some product inferences. Product literature often discusses the three effects of blue light on the eye, AMD, sleep disruption, and visual strain and fatigue.

To clinicians and consumers alike, this information may be misleading.

It is now believed based on peerreviewed scientific evidence that both oxidative stress and cumulative lifetime exposure to blue light contribute to the development of AMD. Blue light lens products are often marketed to digital device users, as digital device screens emit blue light. However, there are no current studies that link digital device or electronic screen usage to AMD, and there are no lens products on the market that are clinically proven to diminish the risk of developing AMD. As such, care must be taken when discussing potential protective effects with patients.

As discussed, ipRGCs are most sensitive to blue light in the 459-484 nm range.

When exposed to these wavelengths after dark, melatonin secretion can be adversely affected. At this time, recommending blue light-attenuating lenses to improve sleep is not appropriate as there is no FDA approved indication for this. In fact, with current technology, lenses to improve sleep would need to be a very deep brown color, not practical for indoor, after dark use.

However, based on basic ocular anatomy and physiology, it is well known that blue light has a detrimental effect on visual function. There are blue light-attenuating lens products on the market now that diminish the effects of blue light from artificial light sources to improve visual comfort. This makes prescribing blue light-attenuating lens products clinically appropriate and is their best current application, especially for relief of digital eye strain.

CONCLUSION The largest shift in the history of humankind on visual environment and behavior has occurred. As eyecare professionals, staying abreast of new developments in the science of blue light and products to combat its effects are vital to both the health and welfare of our patients and practices.

Directory Listing 450 SRL

ITALY Ph: +39 0141 231035 info@ultralimited.it ultralimited.it

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VANNI

ROUNDTEN

SWISS EYEWEAR GROUP (INTERNATIONAL) AG

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FRANCE Ph +33 4 72 52 01 70 seaport-odlm.com

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