20/20 Europe Eyewear January 2018 Edition

NEW MINIMALISM Brand profile Frost Eyewear /////////////// In detail Komono ///////////////// Interview Maui Jim ////////////////////////////// Lenses & Technology Safilens 20/20 europe a Jobson publication nr. 1/2018 – January – Year XIV 20Eventi Srl Unipersonale

For 20 years, William Morris London has used quintessentially British inspiration to create world-leading eyewear. For the best in authentic design, choose the UK. Join us when we reveal our new GREAT British eyewear collections at Mido 2018.

F williammorrislondon  williammorrislondon  williammorris.co.uk

PAV I L L I O N 2, STA N D T 3 4 24 T H - 26 T H F E BRUA RY 2 0 1 8

Titanium and Acetate in RED

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#GIVESHAPETONATURE

in Munich / Germany from 12 to 14.1.2018 - C2.209

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Erratum: nr. 5/2017 November issue – the publisher apologises for incorrect wording appearing on page 16 – column 2 from “How has”…to page 17 column 1 ending “service they provide.” The full corrected version of this interview is available at www.2020europe.com/en_en/magazine/fashion_and_lifestyle-1/interview_of_the_month-6/essilor_sun_solution-510.html

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#blackfineyewear

WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE

Launches and Creative Highlights

INTERVIEW Maui Jim

NEW MINIMALISM

The Essentials

IN DETAIL KOMONO

Minimal Directions

EVENTS The latest updates

BRAND PROFILE

Frost eyewear

FASHION

Beauty in the Understated

TRENDS

Opulent Indulgences

RETAILING

Desirable Accessories

DESIGNER LIFE

Fleye Copenhagen

EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY 8

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SALT.

@SALTOPTICS

EDITOR’S COMMENT

Image: Emily Parton

Modern eyewear (and accessory) shopping Clodagh Norton Editor in chief clodagh@20eventi.com

“Style is a way to say who you are without having to speak.” Rachel Zoe Some incredible stores are opening in Europe, and thanks to Instagram we are delighted to find them instantly! Not only do they have a super sense of design, as well as bags of enthusiasm and some clever and different ideas on store concepts, they are also branching out with new specialist independent collections sourced at the European eyewear fairs - which continue to showcase design labels and up-and-coming designers. These opticians have a strong sense of what is fashionable and what is flattering and an ability to “dress” their customers (of any age) in eyewear that enhances or brings out good looks and personality.

In the last months, during our store visits, both in Europe and further afield, it has become very clear that customers are enjoying the new trends in ultra-thin eyewear, and some of the current bestsellers (we are told!) include the very narrow rimmed aviators and round “antique inspired” wire designs.

We’ve focused on this minimal mood in part of this issue, identifying the trend across the collections, but not just in metal…we have found many gorgeous rimless styles, as well as acetates that play with a barely-there transparency that looks light, sophisticated, and perfectly modern.

Some of the most fashion-focused optical stores are offering new products and accessories alongside their selection of eyewear. They include chains and eyewear cords, trendy readers, special “luxury” eyewear cases, and brilliant storage for your eyewear wardrobe! We recommend a look at some of the eye-catching items we’ve found for 2018 in our Retailing Section in this issue. These products offer a very attractive extra focus for the customer with an interest in design, but they also have another role: some of them can look quite amazing in windows and in-store displays, complementing the frames with colour, and communicating an interest in fashion trends and the latest most unique styling.

As we go to print in January, the whole 20/20 Europe team wishes you all an excellent and prosperous 2018, and we look forward to seeing some of you at OPTI Munich and 100% Optical in London this month!

For regular updates join us on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook. www.2020europe.com

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Lisa Dengler for #kenmarkeyewear

Zac Posen ‘Alek’

SHOP THE 2018 ZAC POSEN COLLECTION NOW AT KENMARKEYEWEAR.COM

/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

Start the year in style Launches and creative highlights for Spring…

HENAU // Belgian #eyewearcouture //

The history Michel Henau met Marc Delagrange in the 1980s. Their unique interpretation of design became a breeding ground for inspiring frame creations and a collection that “you could spot a mile away”, even back then. After Michel’s passing, Marc Delagrange continued to develop the brand, driven by Michel Henau’s visionary interpretation of design, intertwined with craftsmanship and imagination – a future-proof focus. Today, the brand has a wide selection of iconic designs – each one available in six colours, and forming a part of an exciting eyewear heritage.

The collection continues to be hand produced in France or Japan, “simply where the best talents are found.”

Zoom by Henau

2018 directions Highlights in the 2018 henau regular collection include model Zoom, inspired by the earlier model Hexagono, with a surprisingly quirky look. The Zoom is fresh, and contemporary with a chic, elegant look and fine proportions.

Model M606 represents a refinement of models M5 and M6 in the M0-M10 series. “We worked on a larger, more contemporary version in which the shape of the M5 and M6 was purified.

The result is a strong design in typical “henau” style, with a symmetrical lens shape and a bold colour scheme, in line with its design: transparent, bright and easy to wear. Anyone looking for glasses with character as well as a ‘nice design object’ will find what they are looking for here!” henau-eyewear.com

M606 by Henau

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/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

FACE A FACE // A tribute to an artist // Suspending an inner contour in an outer shiny and golden frame, FACE A FACE takes notes from the American conceptual artist Sol LeWitt (1928-2007), who worked with closed forms in his three-dimensional creations. In the mid 60’s, LeWitt chose to remove the surface of his work and focus on the structure underneath. His large-scale open-grit structures, made in industrial materials such as steel, were often based on a cube which were both reduced and multiplied into endless geometric patterns in a tight minimalistic system.

Balancing the duality between the industrial and the sophisticated, FACE A FACE tames the industrial look with the stringent, structural approach from LeWitt. With an open structure and minimalistic design, the frames Lewit1 create an eclectic look that celebrates both the modern and the classic. faceaface-paris.com

GIORGIO ARMANI // Catwalk drama and design // Animating the runway at the fall/winter 2017/2018 Giorgio Armani fashion show, a mix of vibrant colours and sleek geometry set this oversized yet ultralight metal model AR 6069 apart. Up-to-the-minute modernism make these glasses versatile and easy to wear all day long, according to the company.

With a luxury feel, the acetate end tips provide absolute comfort. The sunglasses are available in gloss black with smoke grey lenses, gloss blue with gradient blue lenses and gloss green with gradient green lenses.

Brought alive thanks to a myriad of distinctive features, colours and materials, the Giorgio Armani eyewear collection is inspired by the designer’s runway looks. Reflecting the daring desire to break the mould in a subtly irreverent way, this is a new interpretation of Giorgio Armani style in a collection communicating a liberal point of view that is both discerning and dramatic. Giorgio Armani glasses and sunglasses are produced by Luxottica. luxottica.com

VERA WANG LUXE // A modern approach to feminine glamour // New entries in the Vera Wang Luxe collection are six new ophthalmic styles in metal and acetate: models Rhylie, Avelina, Camari, Elaina, Kambrie, and Kora. Model Kora is a modern square/oval combination style featuring temples inspired by the designer’s runway collections and square crystals from Swarovski. Available in blush tortoise, jet black, heather tortoise and classic tortoise, the frame comes in size 52-16-140.

World-renowned fashion designer Vera Wang is known for exquisite taste and a modern approach to glamour and beauty.

The eyewear is translated from Vera Wang’s fashion collection by using contemporary inspired shapes, textures and jewelry motifs. kenmarkeyewear.com

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/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

RODENSTOCK // ‘Mix your style’ rimless collection // Rodenstock has announced a new collection of stylish rimless sunglasses which offers the wearer a choice of lens shapes, lens colours and temple colours. ‘Mix your style’ sunglasses, can me created, according to the customer’s choices, in up to 64 different variations, to perfectly underline the personal style of the wearer and their unique tastes.

For opticians, Rodenstock is offering an extensive package of advertising material for the Mix Your Style collection, including a highlight display, pop-up stands and a POS movie.

A 360-degree end consumer campaign, launching on 1st April 2018, with TV and online media promotion, a radio feature, and a landing page at www.rodenstock.com - as well as extensive PR and social media activity - will further engage customers and drive traffic to the point-of-sale. The collection will be on show at OPTI-Munich in January. rodenstock.com

CALVIN KLEIN // Sleek and luxurious design // The latest men’s and women’s CALVIN KLEIN eyewear, formerly known as Calvin Klein Collection eyewear, embodies the elements of sleek and luxurious designs with structured style and rich colorations. Faceted hardware and elegant details blend effortlessly to create a rich yet minimalistic look. Sunglasses include model CK8056S, an innovative round frame offering a fusion of boldly mixed materials in unique configurations.

A sleek metal rim encased in luxe colour blocked zyl, creates a ”reverse” Windsor rim effect, updating a classic look into a modern eyewear statement. Model CK8048S is an updated aviator featuring mixed materials for a bold statement. The elevated frame integrates angularly cut lenses into a plastic and metal fused rim construction with a sleek silhouette, enhanced with a reverse spring hinge design. Calvin Klein is produced by Marchon Eyewear. marchon.com

FYSH UK // Flirty in Fysh // A key eyewear trend for Fall/Winter 2018 are the contrasting colour combinations, offering a striking modern look on the face and an interesting opportunity to experiment with new colour.

FYSH style F-3591 proposes a diamond shaped, laser etched pattern in contrasting tones that gives it a distinctive appeal. A clear epoxy lacquer is applied over the vibrant colouring for a high gloss, ultra-shiny finish. This design is available in Black Gold, Burgundy Grey, Cobalt Black and Emerald Brown.

Stainless steel model F-3593 is a statement cat eye embedded with metallic glitter across the brow line that makes it the perfect fashion accessory for party goers. The embossed pattern coupled with the glittery brow line creates a luxurious look with tonal layering. Available in a deep colour palette of Wine, Grey, Brown Gold and Black. fyshuk.com / westgroupe.com

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OPTICAL COLLECTION

INTRODUCING THE MAUI JIM OPTICAL COLLECTION A new line of expertly crafted frames infused with the style and soul of Maui Jim.

Crafted Elegance

Inspired by the beauty of Maui and the power of the sun, we’ve always been a technical lens company at heart. Now, we are taking that proficiency and focus to our Optical Collection.

Style shown: 2114-57A ©2017 Maui Jim, Inc.

Visit us at Opti Munich Date: 12.01 - 14.01.2018 Time: 9am to 6pm Location: Hall C3 - Booth 324

/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

ULTRA LIMITED // Unique in design, colour and personalisation // Italian label Ultra Limited has created a new opportunity for customers to have a unique Made in Italy frame fitted with lenses that can be personalised with a name or a symbol.

Having launched the concept originally for the frames, allowing customers to personalise the temples and inscribe a name or signature in the frame material, the company has taken the concept one step further making it possible to subtly “decorate” lenses with a name or a special ‘symbol’ - such as a heart or a paw print. Ultra Limited produces its frames according to traditional artisan methods in Italy. First launched in 2014, the Ultra Limited brand of eyewear has made uniqueness, craftsmanship and striking colours its hallmark. ultralimited.it

GABE EYEWEAR // Bio acetate line preview at Opti // Gabe Eyewear, the young Austrian brand, will preview GABE49 at Opti Munich, an eyeglass line made of bio-acetate with the brand’s SNAP-JOINT horn hinge and adaptable horn temples.

The collection is based around the modern design language typical of GABE Eyewear: chic, elegant, cool and innovative.

The step from wood to acetate constitutes a development in the young company’s design philosophy. “We spent a long time looking for a suitable material, because our eyeglasses have to feel like a high-quality product besides being sustainable.

‘Dressed by nature’, in fact. With the use of bio-acetate we can now develop the GABE Eyewear philosophy further,” says Gabriel Kirschner, Head of Design at GABE Eyewear.

Like the company’s first two product lines, the eyeglasses in the GABE49 series guarantee incomparable wearer comfort, says the company. GABE frames are distinctive in design, lightweight and “can be perfectly tailored to meet the wearer’s needs”. gabe-eyewear.com

KALEOS EYEHUNTERS // Constant contrasts // Conservatory is a collection by Spanish brand Kaleos Eyehunters that juxtaposes nature, the essential, the organic, the good, with humanity, evolution and growth. “In this way, the purest designs of essential beauty are highlighted with exuberant touches that shine through their form and delicacy”, according to the brand. The result is a collection of constant contrasts.

Kaleos has crafted this collection with acetates in organic tones evoked by wood, vegetation and earth as seen in the Havanas range, brown tones, spots and greens accompanied by lenses that combine “ton sur ton” with the main colour of the frame.

Irregular chromatic touches such as glitter and mirrored lenses maintain the collection’s theme of variation. All the elements combine to make each piece a unique and “exquisite” creation. kaleoseyehunters.com

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O P T I | M U N I C H | M O D O | H A L L C 2 , S TA N D 5 0 9

4414 SMK | MODO.COM

1 0 0 % O P T I C A L | L O N D O N | M O D O | S TA N D E 0 8

Paper-Thin Acetate

/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

FURLA // Contemporary glamour // The new Furla Sun collection for Spring/Summer 2018 features a wide selection of styles designed for fashionable women who like to make a statement, as well as for those seeking a sophisticated, elegant and feminine look.

Elegance with linear and essential lines, a strong colour contrast with plays of solid and void elements, and the use of exclusive materials, such as a special Italian Mazzucchelli acetate, are the distinctive characteristics of the 2018 Sun collection, according to the company. Furla eyewear is produced by the Italian company De Rigo Vision. derigo.com

EINSTOFFEN // Raw nature for an urban lifestyle // Einstoffen has won three accolades in the German Design Awards for 2018 which recognises “pioneering contributions to the German and international design landscape”. The classic pilot model Aeronaut and stylish La Princesse won their categories, and model Polarforscher was awarded a Special Mention. The frames feature wood and quality fittings such as anti-scratchcoated CR39 plastic UV-400-protected lenses and German OBE spring hinges. La Princesse stands out for its micro floral engravings on the metal temples. At OPTI, the company will present its first horn collection and a new sunglasses collection with “more minimal engravings, matt mirror lenses, more metalwood-acetate-models and some new models with retro ClipOns”. The company has recently also launched EINSTOFFEN WATCHES via a Kickstarter Project online. einstoffen.ch

WILLIAM MORRIS // Custom made eyewear programme, Brand Fatigue //

STEALER

William Morris has launched Brand Fatigue, an opportunity for opticians to create a custom collection of high end acetate frames that can be branded with their practice name and individually tailored messages. With low buy in quantities, the company is offering practices the chance to promote themselves over other brands. Brand Fatigue pulls together a set of timeless, vintage styles produced in high quality acetate grades that can be customised to suit the needs of each individual practice and customer base. A statement about the new concept explains: “William Morris London are always looking for ways to work with friends and partners to deliver the best in eyewear, service and support to ensure that we are more than just a supplier. We believe in helping independent practices promote themselves and this new unique concept does exactly that.” williammorris.co.uk

// A rising player from Korea // South Korean label Stealer has launched its distinctive minimal steel collection in Europe, re-interpreting the material by means of a Steel Layering Technique. Created in 2014, Stealer has quickly become known at an international level following participation at leading eyewear events including SILMO and MIDO. To further reflect the brand identity as an eyewear brand, Stealer has announced the collection “RUN&ING”, created with the idea of crafting the letter N into an & symbol. While the continuous present verb ‘running’ symbolises continuous growth and advancement as a brand, the label aims to showcase dynamic design details that can only be made possible on metal eyewear designs, says the company. stealereyewear.com

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/// WHAT’S ON IN EUROPE ///

ECO // Look good, feel good, do good // Environmentally-friendly eyewear brand ECO has a simple philosophy which relies on three key concepts: looking good, feeling good, and doing good. The main commitments are sustainability and social responsibility, with a promise to plant one tree for each frame sold. Together with trees for the future, the company’s ‘one frame - one tree program’ has planted over 1.5 million trees.

Eco’s latest bio-based frames are made with 63% castor seeds, making them sustainable while lightweight and comfortable.

For autumn/winter, six new optical shapes have been released, fashioned in the season’s favourite colours. Every style is designed to fit with ECO’s bestselling bio-based magnetic sun clip-ons. modo.com

EDITOR’S STYLE NOTES

THE TECHNICAL TWIST

Focus in on the smaller details and the ingenious designs for frame parts and hinges...

ESN

2. Götti Perspective This delicate rimless collection has taken eight years to perfect and requires no screws, soldering or glue. The connecting part between the stainless steel and eyeglass lens is manufactured using 3D printing; the hinge has a refined elegance in keeping with the exceptional barely-there aesthetic. gotti.ch

3. Tom Ford ‘T’ logo The famous ‘T’ logo continues to feature widely in the latest eyewear collections from Tom Ford. In line with the new minimal aesthetic, the ‘T’ design integrated in the hinge has been streamlined where the design is much narrower and more discreet. marcolin.com

1. Flexlock by Rolf Spectacles Rolf Spectacles has created a new-generation hinge: a clever symbiosis of densely compressed wood and natural rubber – the multi-directional FLEXLOCK. The metal-free design, a feature of model Deville, a 100% natural frame produced in the Tyrol, won a Silmo D’Or 2017 (in the technological innovation category). rolf-spectacles.com

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MADE IN ITALY UNIQUENESS Each pair of glasses is a unique piece, unrepeatable in its combination of colours. info@ultralimited.it

/// INTERVIEW ///

MAUI JIM Spreading the ‘aloha’ message in Europe

Maui Jim sunglasses were born on the beaches of Maui and designed to protect eyes from the harsh rays of the island sun. Today, Maui Jim is recognized for unparalleled “Aloha Spirit” and customer service as well as their patented PolarizedPlus2® lens technology, which blocks 100% of UV rays and eliminates glare while enhancing colour, definition and depth perception. Hans Penzek spoke to 20/20EUROPE as the company prepares to open a new prescription lab in Braunschweig, Germany.

Outline Maui Jim’s activities in Europe.

Hans Penzek,

vice-president Europe, Maui Jim

current

In 2017, we realized a strong year in all European countries. Our markets in Italy, UK, France and Germany have been growing between 4-10% until end of October 2017. Spain and Scandinavia are up 16 and 18%. Another interesting fact is we are continuously winning market shares in nearly all countries.

Currently we are still working on retail presence by offering a huge variety of displays and wall units including a Board Management System. This allows us to spend more time with our accounts to discuss how they can use our Marketing Support and Incentives to grow sales.

We have already launched our B2B site successfully in the UK and Germany and now we are preparing the launch in Scandinavia, France, Italy

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and Spain during the next weeks.

Those projects are very exciting but the most exciting and important one is our eyewear launch. At the beginning of 2017, we launched optical frames in the UK, Germany and Scandinavia, to a limited group of accounts. This has been very successful and now we will offer our Eyewear Collection to all accounts in those three specific markets and additionally also in Spain.

For the remaining markets - France and Italy – we are scheduling the launch for the second half of 2018.

What has been the progress regarding production at the new lab in Braunschweig? Is the lab exclusively for European distribution? Can you project what level of expansion this new production will bring in the next 3-5 years?

/// INTERVIEW ///

Maui Sunrise: a Maui Jim PolarizedPlus2® fashion lens with a pink mirror coating

There has been a lot of work going on inside the building, and our machines have been arriving in December / January. Setting up and adjustments will take a few weeks and then we will start testing in February.

Initially, we will be servicing the European accounts, and other Markets like the Middle East, India and China could be included later. The new RX Lab in Germany gives us also a lot of flexibility, which means we can easily switch and route RX products from Germany to the US and any other MJ DC´s around the world. There is still huge potential with Sun RX and I am very confident to expand by 50-60% in the next five years.

How much of the business is now represented by prescription sunwear in Europe.

Does it remain at around 25%?

It´s a little higher now with 26% at a European level; some markets are seeing much higher sales; in Germany 32%, in the UK, around 44% and in Scandinavia 48%.

“There is still huge potential with Sun RX and I am very confident to expand by 50-60% in the next five years.”

Tell us about your pilot project with opticians to produce clear ophthalmic lenses?

We now offer the clear lens option for our complete Optical Range.

All our accounts can decide if they order only the frame or frame with lenses (available in different types and materials). Our accounts can also order optical frames with our patented polarized Sun lenses. The group of accounts using our lens option has been growing and now represents nearly 50%. They appreciate our exceptional lens quality, the performance and service in our ophthalmic lenses and of course the sun lenses.

What is your key news for OPTI? Beside new fantastic styles and technologies the key news is the fact

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/// INTERVIEW ///

Wild Coast Sunglasses by Maui Jim

that we have become an Eyewear Company offering a comprehensive ophthalmic collection.

Of course, the new RX Lab we are building in Braunschweig is an exciting story we would like to share with our customers during the OPTI Show in Munich.

What are your current bestselling collections in Europe, and how are you developing the collections for the European marketplace?

Rimless Nylon is still our bestselling line, followed by Classic Styles and Aviators in metal. Walter Hester III, owner and CEO of Maui Jim, takes care of product development for frames and lenses personally. He is surrounded by a very experienced product and design team in Lahaina, Maui. Walter Hester visits our accounts on a regular base to learn about their wishes, requirements and expectations. With this input, he goes back to his team to work closely with our production.

Pick out one collection and outline the fashion styling and

lens technology and if relevant the sports benefits.

The Classic Collection offers fashion oriented but wearable styles in Nylon and Acetate with a perfect fit, wrapped to protect the eyes from sun and wind. Our thin and lightweight metal sunglasses in silver or gold with adjustable nosepads, especially the ones with our blue and rose mirror “Blue Hawaii” and “Maui Rose”, could make it into our bestseller group. Both lines mainly include our Maui Pure lenses with a very high clarity, ultralight and excellent scratch and shock resistance.

Finally - how do you perceive the European marketplace for 2018, and what are your priorities in terms of service to ECP customers.

For many years, we have experienced stronger competition in all the markets. Nowadays, nearly all sunglass suppliers offer polarized products and some of them also produce RX sunglasses. We could say that´s bad news but we see it as a challenge!

The stronger competition and increase

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in suppliers of polarized products has brought about a much better perception and acceptance of these high quality sunglasses / lenses. As well as this, nearly all lens suppliers have realized the potential of polarized lenses.

Although there are a lot of cheaper products available in the marketplace there is still a huge group of consumers only interested in great quality, protection and performance combined with a great service. That´s what we offer with Maui Jim Sunglasses.

“Winning at retail is still our main focus, and I am sure we are very well prepared for the future.”

Our strategy has always been to provide the best possible product with a great service and flexibility including technical and sales training with a huge variety of marketing tools to sell our product very well. mauijim.com

EVERYTHING STARTS WITH A VISION With an equal focus on fit, function and aesthetics, EVATIK eyewear strikes the perfect balance between comfort and luxury. Clean, understated designs are elevated by high quality materials such as handmade acetate, high grade stainless steel, Japanese titanium and European hinges. Deep, rich, masculine colors and custom design elements define the collection, creating the perfect eyewear accessory for today’s modern man.

OPTI-MUNICH, HALL C1 BOOTH 314 E-9148

+1.514.383.0042 | WWW.WESTGROUPE. COM

INNOVATIVE EYECCESSORY

...the SunCover The first DESIGN-PATENTED cover, which fits EVERY shape and size of glasses!

Made of finest leather and real gold- or silver-plated metal elements. The fine microfiber material and soft padding on the inside cleans lenses, keeps them safe and scratch-free.

Discover more... www.ANY-DI.com

Yohji Yamamoto: SS18 catwalk Yohji Yamamoto Eyewear, produced by Brando.

Photography by Monica Feudi

Pure Light Simple A compelling design with an architectural refinement... light to wear, simple and paired back... yet behind the new wave of minimal eyewear designs is an accomplished technical language and love of innovation, architecture and adventurous design concepts...

/// NEW MINIMALISM ///

The Essentials Fashion is fast-changing and minimalism appears to be seeing a new mesmerizing revival. The Autumn eyewear shows saw a move towards very fine lines in eyewear, and a resurgence of metals and architecturally inspired aesthetics.

Compiled by Clodagh Norton

2017 has ushered in a fresh look in eyewear, a new interesting alternative to other popular and trending directions where acetate is the key player.

At SILMO, many eyewear designers showcased metal collections with a focus on refined linear designs in advanced metals such as titanium or stainless steel – sometimes with the look of just a very narrow wire. Some brands revisit the historic eyewear shapes and others have introduced or re-introduced the rimless or semi-rimless look with lenses appearing in angular shapes and multi-sided designs modified from hexagons and pentagons.

Rimless at Yohji Yamamoto: SS18 catwalk presentation – Yohji Yamamoto Eyewear, produced by Brando. Photography by Monica Feudi.

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/// NEW MINIMALISM ///

Model 4514 from the Paper-Thin Acetate series by MODO. The frame is made with 0.6 mm thick Beta Titanium 153, combining the lightness and strength of titanium with the utmost flexibility. With the addition of an acetate rim on the titanium, the designs in the range offer the possibility for exciting textures and vibrant hues on the light, flexible core. The crystal tone is particularly exciting in this minimal concept

For the Fall/Winter release, MODO proposed new designs which feature an exposed metal brow, the presence of which enhances the frame’s shapes and highlights the colour possibilities of acetate with titanium. MODO 4514 (pictured) is a narrow pantos shape, where the new concept is to focus on edgy colours that contrast with the main titanium frame.

Other brands have focused on classical metals like the oversized aviator, round designs with the double bridge or trendy multi sided eye shapes which look very modern in fine metal such as stainless steel – in natural metal finishes and metallic colours.

The 1970s aviator-shaped glasses have been much hyped, for boys and girls alike – in part owing to its unisex credentials and ability to offset very different looks.

Swedish streetwear brand WeSC has an eyewear line produced by Opo Scandinavia. Directional modern shapes in metal fit with the brand identity which has its origins in the skateboard scene

“The 1970s aviator-shaped glasses have been much hyped, for boys and girls alike...”

BARELY-THERE CLASSICS...

WITH MODERN DETAILS Some eyewear leaders have traditionally focused on the lightweight construction and comfort of a minimal frame. From Austria, Silhouette Eyewear, first opened in 1964, continues to work with its own signature materials like SPX®, which have revolutionized the lightness of their eyewear designs.

Currently highlights in their wide selection of collections is the Inspire range, which boasts a unique frame design which conceals the hinges and ensures that the frame’s rim is fully integrated and connects with the temple. Each frame within the range is available with four different tinted lens options; brown, mint, grey or rosé.

The collection offers a beautiful contrast between Silhouette’s signature SPX® which comes in a matte finish on the temples, combined with metallised decorative parts for a bold and stylish look. In addition, the temples feature a subtle gradient print for added interest and detailing. Wearers can also opt for a soft touch matt pearl finish for added elegance.

Unisex model Manu from the Wire Collection by neubau: with its round shape and double bridge, this new unisex wire frame is available in graphite matte, eclectic silver, eclectic silver/black and glorious gold

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/// NEW MINIMALISM ///

The design lines reflect the brand’s main influence, retrofuturism, infusing its own unique personality on each and every frame design.

Similarly, Andy Wolf, the Austrian independent label, has produced metal designs with unusual details in White Heat, the line that first launched in 2014. White Heat offers pure designs in different forms including rimless and striking material combinations. More recently, the collection has seen new entries in very light thin metal with acetate parts at the nose bridge or temple end.

The Grid Series by LOOL Eyewear: Barcelona’s eyewear “architects” created this series with a perforated design and very minimal structure SILHOUETTE’s Inspire collection: the models are available in three different temple sizes and a range of colour options including ruthenium/horn, simply brown, royal red/turquoise and rose gold/opal grey. The frames and lenses are available under the Silhouette Vision Sensation™ programme

PURE AND INNOVATIVE With metal frames trending, those looking for artisan eyewear also have a wide choice of individual designs based on minimal aesthetics.

Winners of the Blogger Spectacle award last year at Opti, and already a “noted” name as design innovators, LOOL Eyewear produce their frames in stainless steel “with a precise technical process, combining the industrial and manual, man and machine.”.

“The design lines reflect the brand’s main influence, retrofuturism, infusing its own unique personality on each and every frame design….”

The Grid Series by LOOL Eyewear / Streamline

Stein by Andy Wolf, an oversized aviator featuring a drop-face, double bridge and the brand’s very popular lightweight fit

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OPTI — Stand C2.506

www.komono.com

/// NEW MINIMALISM ///

KOMONO Founded in Belgium in 2009 by Raf Maes and Anton Janssens, KOMONO creates watches and eyewear with a sleek design and contemporary colour palette. Anton Janssens talked to 20/20 Europe about minimalist aesthetics and eyewear directions for 2018 ahead of the brand’s OPTI launch and the day after the brand won an eminent Belgian fashion award.

Interview by Clodagh Norton

I think sunglasses catch momentum in fashion before opticals do…so what we created then in our steel frames we can now leverage in our optical line. People recognise KOMONO for that aesthetic.

“KOMONO means “small things” … the word itself and the logo offer a powerful, yet clear and simple presentation of what we are about….”

Raf Maes and Anton Janssens, KOMONO’s founders

What is KOMONO’s take on the new minimal aesthetic in eyewear? What do you believe the customer wants?

We have an understated, not too flamboyant, more minimalist way of thinking anyway. It is in our DNA, so it’s not a direction we need to think about differently for the new season. We produce both acetate and stainless steel frames with a minimal, pared-down approach. Of course, we are seeing a trend in the market focusing more and more on very thin steel frames. We launched this trend three years ago in our sunglasses collection;

Model Sinclair from the Elementary Collection by Komono The Elementary Collection from KOMONO is a statement in minimalist metal with four lightweight steel styles – Sinclair, Sheldon, Mercer, and Hailey – featuring titanium nose pads and ultra-thin metal temples

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/// IN DETAIL ///

What is the significance of the brand name KOMONO? ‘KOMONO’ means “small things” in Japanese. We wanted to present ourselves as a fashion accessory brand, first and foremost. But the word is also a bold, strong name with three ‘O’s, which we have represented in our logo; the first two represent our eyewear and the third stands for the watches. The word itself, as well as the logo, offer a powerful, yet clear and simple presentation of what we are about.

What have you launched recently that reflects your direction for 2018?

At SILMO, we launched the Elementary optical collection, which takes our slim designs a step further. For the Elementary Collection, we have really studied what we can “take away” for the “less is more” approach, and we created extremely thin, innovative, steel designs that are minimal and contemporary at the same; this is our focus with all our marketing and sales for this collection.

For us, it is important that KOMONO is consistent and coherent in everything we do. So, we reflect this look in our watches also. When we launched the watch collection, we brought more innovation and introduced a more contemporary minimal style when there was a strong general trend for retro in watch design…and that’s key for us – that we never change our DNA according to the trends, but find our own way. As a fashion brand your identity must be clear and consistent; we are not following the trends but creating our own market.

Model Hailey – the Elementary Collection by Komono

As a relatively young brand in eyewear, what is your direction? You have expanded internationally; please comment on this growth.

We have created our identity in the fashion world with the aim of making luxury fashion accessible. Fashion for me is where trends are born and I do believe that the bigger and more respected we are in the fashion world, the bigger the demand we will create in the optical world.

We have now opened five concept stores – three in Belgium, and two in Asia in Tokyo and Taipei. Our growth in Europe has been incredible, particularly in our home country, as well as in Germany, France, and the Netherlands. We are already working with over 1000 opticians in Europe - after just one year. We design collections specifically for opticians to ensure we meet their specific needs.

As OPTI draws near, can you tell us what you will launch?

We will be launching the Elementary Collection sunglasses line at OPTI. Following that, we will be launching new ophthalmic designs at MIDO. You have won a prestigious fashion award in Belgium. Please comment.

We have been awarded the Entrepreneur of the Year prize at the Belgian Fashion Awards 2017. It is a huge honour to be recognised in the fashion industry in this way in our home city of Antwerp. We are great admirers of the other winners who include fashion designers Dries Van Noten and Raf Simons. To be standing on stage alongside them for this award presentation had a huge significance for us personally and for the story of our brand. komono.com

Model Mercer – the Elementary Collection by Komono

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/// ADVERTORIAL ///

KILSGAARD EYEWEAR

A story about passion and personality and style. We are extremely proud of the fine detailing and expressive coloration of the new collection. It truly builds on our passion for creating long-lasting evergreens” says Charlotte Ellegaard, Head of Marketing at Kilsgaard Eyewear.

Kilsgaard Eyewear is a Danish designer eyewear brand with an international perspective. Their frames are a modern and urban tribute to Danish design classics created with passion for simplicity and elegance.

At Kilsgaard Eyewear they do not follow trends and dogmas to be hip or fashionable, but stay grounded in simply elegant design which never goes out of style. The latest collection stays true to their vision and consists of beautiful eyewear that will enhance the personal style of the wearer and not create it.

“Creating unique eyewear is about passion, personality

THE DRAGONFLY “What is the story behind your logo?”, is a question often raised to the Kilsgaard team, “Where did the crazy dragonfly wearing glasses come from?” The simple answer from the team is: “Honestly, we don’t clearly remember; it might have been a designer’s jest on a lazy summers day or it might have been envisioned after a long night with an abundance of wine. What we do know is, that the dragonfly is now our good friend and part of our passion.”

The passion of the Kilsgaard brand is also closely related to Italy, where the quality frames are produced in premium workshops, who focus on craftsmanship. This passion is reflected in the 2018 collection, by naming the new styles after wonderful places in Northern Italy; a great place for inspiration, easygoing life style and great food!

The team looks forward to presenting the new collection in beautiful aluminum and acetates in subtle colours at Opti 2018 in Munich. designeyeweargroup.com | kilsgaard-eyewear.com

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#frenkleaveyourmark Visit us at Opti Munich, Halle 1-Stand 822

/// SHOWCASE ///

LIGHTEN UP but go BIG on DESIGN

OXIBIS

VINYL FACTORY

Character and technical precision

Less is more, this time round

Model Doly features satin fronts and a discreet mesh pattern at the corner of the eye. When worn, this creates the subtle illusion of a cat’s eye and a smoky eye effect. Boasting an ingenious flex hinge, the design exudes softness and romance, with a dash of character, according to the company. For the colour, the collection pays homage to pink, playing with a flattering variety of shades and combinations. Featured on some models are hues of blue, orange and saffron, as well as silver and gold metal finishes. Doly comes in three shapes; each one is available in four colour choices.

In line with the big trend of the season, Vinyl Factory has launched model Trimble, a metal design with a coloured acetate detail at the top, enhancing the look. The temples, while featuring the Vinyl Factory signature of the guitar shaped ‘neck’, are reinvented in gold with black vintage-inspired temple tips . Vinyl Factory has a passion for music, and all styles, whether minimalist or ornate, revisit the 1960s and 70s with irresistible design ideas and colourways in line with a chic French design aesthetic.

oxibis-group.com

vinylfactory.fr

EVATIK

AM EYEWEAR

Round is trending

Ancient inspiration

EVATIK model E-9156 capitalizes on the continued popularity of round frames as well as the new-found demand for metals. Combining a smart Japanese mono-block titanium front with beta titanium temples, E-9156 is strong, corrosion-resistant, hypoallergenic and lightweight. A laser cut split temple adds a subtle touch to an otherwise clean design while a custom titanium end cap on the temple tips is engraved with an “E”, providing a discreet logo. This modern take on a retro look is available in black, grey and brown taupe. EVATIK is produced by Westgroupe.

AM Eyewear’s 2018 collection ‘Mayan Gold’ is inspired by the ancient culture of the Mayan people. This season AM Eyewear has handcrafted a luxury range plated with 9 carat,18 carat, and 22 carat gold, as well as combinations of silver, rose gold, and copper elements across frames, hardware and ZEISS lenses. The creative process for Mayan Gold invoked the crisp, cool tones of rainforests and the application of precious minerals to create bespoke artifacts.

Mayan Gold sees the introduction of six new silhouettes, including the model pictured: Aulenti in black.

evatik.com / westgroupe.com

ameyewear.com

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/// SHOWCASE ///

This s eas o n, c h oos e s ta t e m e n t ey ew ear wi th a n e x t r a l i g h t a n d s up er co m f y f o c u s

THEO

SARAGHINA EYEWEAR

Noodles and chopsticks

Metals in colour

The stainless steel Japanese inspired theo collection – Noodles – features model Udon, a sophisticated frame design which has been chemically etched; the corners are laser-cut for an extra delicate effect. Quirky details are the lenses which stick out a bit above the frames at the top and the super bright colours which include flashy neons. Model Udon is one of five styles in the series, all of which are named after noodles: Ramen, Soba, Shirataki and Harusame.

In line with the latest trends, Italian brand Saraghina launches narrow metal frames with a twist of colour. The frames are described as comfortable, lightweight designs offering personality and originality, with each one featuring an exclusive coloration combined with either gold or silver metal. Shapes include classics such as the aviator, modified from the trendy hexagon shape for an ultra-fashionable statement.

Saraghina Eyewear describes itself as representing the lively, carefree attitude of Federico Fellini’s homeland Emilia Romagna.

theo.be

saraghinaeyewear.com

SILHOUETTE

PLEIN LES MIRETTES

All about the elegance

Cutouts and transparency

Well-known for its attention to lightweight design innovation, Silhouette’s Elegance Collection introduces a series of frames for both men and women, offering a contemporary and distinctive design statement. The new Crystal Diva frames combine a softly waved design with a beautifully shiny gold surface to achieve a glamourous, elegant look that will add a touch of sparkle. Inspired by the grandeur of 50s Hollywood, the Crystal Diva frame features a unique crystal applique design: a crystal setting technique whereby Swarovski crystals are applied by hand to create an exquisitely detailed finish.

Model Hybride 1 in Gold and Red is a new combination frame from the French designer collection Plein Les Mirettes. The metal is a galvanized stainless steel and the acetate is a translucent red crystal with a relief printing treatment by Mazzucchelli. The collection Hybride I,II and III are very limited editions of just 30 pieces / colours. With its cut-out feature on the front between the two materials and the transparency of the acetate material, the style perfectly illustrates the trend for minimal styling in a combination design.

silhouette.com

plein-les-mirettes.fr

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OPTI 2018

MUNICH, 12 th-14 th JANUARY HALL C1 BOOTH C1.425 AND C1.429

. ITALY . TEL. +39 0432 646411 . INFO@AREA98.IT . WWW.AREA98.IT

events Eyewear fairs and celebrations

/// EVENTS ///

100% Optical Support for Blind Walk The UK’s 100% Optical has pledged its support for the Big Blind Walk 2018, in collaboration with VisionBridge, to help stop sight loss in its tracks.

Promising a bumper gathering for its “fabulous fifth anniversary” at London Excel on January 27-29, 2018, the show will help raise awareness of life changing eye research.

Founder of VisionBridge, Julian Jackson said: “Sadly, eye research is one of the best kept secrets in the UK, despite all the impressive breakthroughs and developments over the last 50 years but with the help of 100% Optical, we hope to change this. 100% Optical is the place where eye health innovation begins. It pulls the optical profession together and represents the very best in education for optometry and ophthalmology.

Copenhagen Specs

“We want to support and enhance the optical sector and this is the perfect cause for us to champion this year.

The show is more than just an industry event, it has always aimed to provide a thought leadership platform and influential “voice” for eye health innovation.”

Scandinavia’s fair for independent eyewear brands Copenhagen specs, the independent eyewear show for Scandinavia, takes place on 3rd-4th of March 2018. Now in its 5th year, the fair will continue to offer a focus on the independent design brands in the optics industry with the same concept of previous years. “We offer small booths in a simple well-arranged design,” explains Founder/CEO Morten Gammelmark.

100% Optical event director, Nathan Garnett

“Together with the very beautiful brands and the excellent venue - the ‘Lokomotivværkstedet’ we will create a unique atmosphere, which is only found at this eyewear show.”

Supported by 100% Optical and Second Sight, the 1,000 mile walk from Land’s End to John O’Groats commences on 29 April for seven weeks and aims to raise awareness and understanding of sight loss, promote eye research and create a new fund for translational research. Visit bigblindwalk.com to join the walk through your home town or make a donation.

100percentoptical.com

Visitor numbers have increased in Copenhagen, year on year.

“If you are working in the optical business and want to be inspired by trendy and innovative eyewear, copenhagen specs is the show to visit,” says Gammelmark. “At this event, you will see the latest collections from the independent labels, with a clear and easy presentation at the booths. Every booth is open and accessible and the exhibitors are very enthusiastic to tell their stories and show their new designs and innovations.”

This year, new exhibitors at the fair will include PREGO (Denmark), Nina Mûr (Spain), Düsseldorf Eyewear (Germany), and RES/REI (Italy). copenhagenspecs.dk

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model R7415 S1, S3

THE NEW INDIVIDUALITY. MIX YOUR STYLE. The intelligent consultation concept for fashionable premium prescription sunglasses.

Offer your customers 64 possible combinations that perfectly underline their individual style.

See better. Look perfect.

/// EVENTS ///

Hong Kong Optical Fair Emerging Markets See Good Growth and High-end Brands Tipped to be Top Sellers The 25th edition of the HKTDC Hong Kong Optical Fair attracted a record of more than 16,000 buyers from 103 countries and regions, up seven per cent over the previous year. The number of buyers from numerous emerging markets rose significantly, including the Chinese mainland, India, Indonesia, the Philippines and Thailand. Sizable growth in buyers was also recorded from mature markets, such as Singapore, Taiwan, France, the UK and Canada; the number of buyers from Hong Kong also grew.

“The global demand for eyewear products continues to climb.

For industry professionals, the international Optical Fair remains a major promotion and sourcing platform. The fair showcased a broad spectrum of products and many exhibitors displayed their new and high-end eyewear designs to cater to strong market demand. There was a vibrant trading atmosphere on the fairground.”

Benjamin Chau, Deputy Executive Director of the HKTDC

L.G.R

IMPROVING CHINESE MAINLAND MARKET, E-TAILING TO BECOME A TREND Industry professionals and experts were invited to a series of seminars at the fair to examine the latest market trends and product styles. According to Euromonitor International, global eyewear sales will reach nearly HK$1 trillion this year, and retail sales of eyewear in the Chinese mainland rose about six per cent last year.

HIGH-END BRANDED EYEWEAR IN DEMAND This year’s Brand Name Gallery featured 225 top international brands and designer collections. Hong Kong exhibitor Kingvisions Ltd has been exhibiting at the fair for five consecutive years. Ivan Chan, the company’s General Manager, said the company made more than 120 new contacts during the fair. Several retailers from the Chinese mainland, Singapore, Taiwan and Thailand also placed onsite orders for more than 1,000 pieces.

opens Flagship store in Milan Italian luxury label L.G.R, founded by Luca Gnecchi Ruscone, has opened its first flagship store in Milan. The shop is located in the prestigious Brera district, at 36 Corso Garibaldi. The opening marks the first steps of the brand’s evolving retail strategy.

The 1000 sq. ft. outlet is inspired by the shapes and colours of Ottica Bini, Luca’s grandfather’s eyeglass emporium in Asmara, Eritrea. Built by the Italians at the end of the 19th century, the building still exists; it is where Luca first discovered the original, timeless frames.

The boutique features shop windows inspired by neo-Gothic/ Venetian shapes, reminiscent of Ottica Bini’s windows. Core materials such as wood and coir, a coconut fiber, reflect the brand’s blended heritage of African adventure and Italian elegance. Pale green and blue hues are used for the interior space, evoking the Eritrean skies and seas.

“Milan’s international presence and undisputed reputation in the world of luxury and lifestyle makes the city a natural choice for our first store in Italy,” says Luca Gnecchi Ruscone, the company’s founder and CEO. “Fascinating interiors characterized by a timeless and romantic aesthetic draw inspiration from Ottica Bini, my grandfather’s warehouse in Asmara.”

hkopticalfair.hktdc.com

“The space on Corso Garibaldi will celebrate our DNA, allowing customers to immerse themselves in the universe of L.G.R. This opening is just the first step in a retail strategy that we hope will soon bring us to major cities around the world” Luca Gnecchi Ruscone, L.G.R lgrworld.com

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MEET US AT OPTI/MÃœNCHEN MONTER C2:602

Photo by Johan Sundell / Viktoria Tolstoy & Mikael wearing NORDYL

# WWW.KUNOQVIST.COM | @KUNOQVIST

/// EVENTS ///

TOM DAVIES Celebrations in London Bespoke Eyewear designer Tom Davies celebrated the launch of his London factory and the brand’s 15th Anniversary at a party at the new HQ in October 2017.

“It was truly a night to remember with aerial acrobats swinging from the factory rafters and absinthe cocktails in the Elves Grotto.

We enjoyed spectacular music and entertainment and partied until the small hours.”

MIDO 2018

#livethewonder MIDO, the Milan Eyewear Show will take place at Fieramilano from 24th to 26th February, 2018. After the last record-breaking editions, MIDO has consolidated its position and has sold out all its exhibition spaces and is preparing to welcome tens of thousands of professional visitors from across the globe.

The 48th edition will host large multinational industrial groups producing frames, lenses and sunglasses, small-medium enterprises dedicated to experimentation and creative avantgarde designers and start-ups; also attending are the producers of equipment, machines and components and the collective participation of the most interesting Asian manufacturers in the sector.

The brand has moved its factory from Shenzhen, China to a new production site in Brentford, West London which also serves as the new UK head office. Five Tom Davies Bespoke Opticians stores are now operating in London, in prime locations in Chelsea, Knighstbirdge, the City, Canary Wharf and Covent Garden.

In 2018, the company has announced it will be running regular product workshops and production tours led by Tom himself at the factory.

“This edition will embody the enthusiasm, ideas, projects and drive towards innovation in a constantly-evolving sector, where companies which are avant-garde in terms of research and development seek to reinvent, in an audacious and creative manner, an item which for centuries, perched on our faces, has characterised our identity like no other…”

tdtomdavies.com

Giovanni Vitaloni, president of MIDO EXHIBITION SPACE The MORE! pavilion is increasing in size in 2018. The Lab Academy will continue to welcome new designers and startups debuting on the sector’s international stage. More news this year comes in the form of BESTORE, the competition that selects the best optical stores in the world, which is doubling up with two prize categories: the BESTORE DESIGN, for shops characterised by the way in which the lay-out, materials, design, furnishings and general atmosphere contribute to creating a fundamental shopping experience and the BESTORE INNOVATION, assessing all the aspects linked to the evolution of customer service, customer and supplier interaction, communications management, the history of the store and its professional, human and emotional aspects. mido.com

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OPTI MUNICH STAND C1.727 SEAPORT : export@seaport-odlm.com

/// EVENTS ///

VISON EXPO EAST 2018 “New Look and Feel” Attendees heading to Vision Expo East will experience a brand-new Show as Vision Expo launches an all new look and feel, beginning in 2018.

The Show’s redesigned website focuses on providing visitors with a streamlined registration process and easy access to the information and planning tools needed to tailor their time in New York. The website also gives attendees a sneak peek at Vision Expo’s new creative campaign, All About Eyes, and a taste of what’s to come on the Show Floor including experiences designed around special events, complimentary amenities, contests and awards often taking place in redesigned lounges, social hubs, and a multitude of destinations created to provide attendees with more opportunities to network, learn, socialize and engage with exhibitors and peers.

Following the previously announced addition of OptiCon @ Vision Expo, the Show has also announced a new ‘OptiCon Hub’ – a Show Floor destination designed exclusively for opticians and contact lens technicians featuring pop up talks, networking and lounge space, and booths from ABO-NCLE and its partner

46

“Only in New York will you find everything you need to see what’s trending in the world’s largest marketplace and how to share it with your customers….” organizations.

Through more than 27,000 square meters of exhibition space, three fashion pavilions and three science pavilions, exhibitors and visitors are given a glimpse at the latest designer styles and cutting-edge innovations in products and technology. Vision Expo East takes place at the Javits Center in New York, NY (Education: 15-18th March; Exhibition: March 16-18th March). Registration for VEE is now open.

VisionExpo.com

FACONNABLE.COM

OPTI MUNICH STAND C1.727 SEAPORT : export@seaport-odlm.com

/// BRAND PROFILE ///

frost eyewear Innovative, imaginative and individualistic: Marion Frost at frost eyewear describes the philosophy of the German brand she created with her husband Paris, and the beautiful Black Forest that inspires designs.

Interview by Joan Grady

Give a brief history of the frost brand.

Paris and I founded the eyewear production company PM Frost in 1994. The first glasses entered the market under the brand name TATTO-O. Due to the increasing global interest and patents received, a more personalized name was desired, and the brand renamed to ‘frost eyewear’. Since 1996, we participate regularly in national and international fairs for eyewear design. In 2004 a new production building opened in Sasbach (north of the German Black Forest). Here frost designs, produces and sends its goods all over the world. This is possible with an efficient network of sales partners.

What are the most significant attributes of your designs? frost style is highly individual. We are always searching for new designs that are capable of making a difference, and create individual looking eyewear that fits a variety of customers’ needs and desires. As an independent brand we are highly flexible and inventive. Our glasses are made in Germany, and we have everything in-house: starting with the design and ending with the finished glasses being sent all over the world.

This reality also contributes to our eyewear designs. frost frames are sold in over forty countries.

Does the customer profile vary widely in different locations?

Marion Frost, frost eyewear

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/// FROST EYEWEAR ///

Customer profiles vary when you look at it from an international perspective. The form of the head itself varies as well. It is an ongoing challenge to offer a variety of frame designs that fulfil the expectation and needs around the world.

There is also another movement one can observe. For example, our metal frames have been preferred in Asia for years. Now metal frames are the trend, and getting bigger in Europe. frost eyewear has collections in acetate, metal and stainless steel. Are there other materials in which you would like to create eyewear?

The eyewear brand frost consists of three different collections: frost hot glasses, myfrost and f-type. Each has its own focal point. We are always looking to use innovative materials and technology to reach better results in design and function.

What new design concepts will you be presenting at OPTI? We will present four brand new acetate designs. The overall topic of the designs is DIMENSIONS. Following this theme

Frequenz in acetate from DIMENSIONS by frost eyewear Lifestyle image featuring Molecule from frost eyewear, debuting at OPTI

fragmentation into a variety of sub-trends when you look at form and material. This is what we have observed for some time now, and it is an important aspect for our frame designs.

For colour, we expect more requests in blue, violet and red, as well as light-coloured frames in off-white, smoky grey and transparent effects.

“I’ve been inspired by the dimensions and beauty of our world.”

Panorama in two-tone colourations

frost has been creating unique eyewear for over twenty years. What influential changes have been most revolutionary?

frost eyewear will introduce Molecule, Frequenz, Panorama and Crystals as amazingly varied and diversified designs. As always, there are a variety of colours. I’ve been inspired by the dimensions and beauty of our world. This starts when two atoms meet to form a molecule, touching the often unseen dimension of sound; finally referring to the beauty of whole landscapes, and highly valued natural objects like crystals.

For us, technology and the technological change is the strongest influence. It starts with creating ideas on a computer.

It continues with the new technological opportunities in the production process, and it ends with modern communication technology that allows us to get in touch with our customers, instantly.

The technology is only an influence in the process of eyewear creation and production. The human being is at the centre of my thoughts and ideas. I continue to receive inspiration from nature, and especially the Black Forest.

What trends do you foresee unfolding in eyewear - for spring/summer 2018?

In 2018, we spot one overall trend: the ongoing will and wish for more individuality in product design, and therefore the

pm-frost.de

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/// ADVERTORIAL ///

GÖTTI SWITZERLAND It’s time for a new Perspective The Götti Perspective Collection is the answer to minimalism. Technically, as well as aesthetically, it gets to the heart of the design, making a stylish statement despite its inconspicuousness.

With Götti Perspective, the eyewear system consists of only a few individual components. They are put together without screws, glue, or soldering. This is the result of eight years’ development and engineering. The final result is not just another screw-based rimless frame but a new concept of technology and style.

When the lens shape is added, the design become a complete set of glasses, offering an experience of lightness which is second to none. The connecting part between the stainless steel and the optical lens is manufactured using 3D printing. The perfect material characteristics provide a durable connection as well as a soft protective covering which, at the same time, will preserve the glass. The connecting element is inserted into the drilling hole and adjusted in length depending on the thickness of the lens. Our temples and nose bridges are pressure-joined with the connecting element via a proprietary Clavulus, creating a longlasting connection.

The components of all Götti Perspective designs are manufactured in our own factory in Switzerland from highquality Sandvik stainless steel, which possesses the required flexibility. The result: ultralight, precise glasses, “Made in Switzerland.” What’s your Pespective? gotti.ch

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www.frankcustom.com Belgium . Luxembourg Germany . Switzerland . Austria Scandinavia . Finland . Iceland

TEL +82 70 4390 9705 TEL +32 19 51 12 20 TEL +49 2431 806 58 TEL +46 300 566 386

worldtrend33@gmail.com info@duchesne-optic.be g.wolf@wolf-continental.com se@noxe.se

Eye ear: T-shw M Top: irt: CristAX MAR G i Trou acobi iano Bu A by S AFIL rani sers: no O Calca terra

/// EDITORIAL ///

/// BEAUTY IN THE UNDERSTATED ///

Beauty

in the understated Directional, pared-back aesthetics dominate the women’s eyewear collections Photography Andrea Biondi Hair and Make Up Oriana Curti Model Viktoria Bobrikova @ Women Management

/// EDITORIAL ///

Eyewear: XAVIER GARCIA Shirt: Alberto Zambelli Trousers: Giacobino

/// BEAUTY IN THE UNDERSTATED ///

Eyewear: BLACKFIN Shirt: Giacobino Salopette: Tamo

/// EDITORIAL ///

Eyewear: IC! BERLIN Hood: N N couture

Eye Hoodwear: FR Tro : N N ANK Sandusers: Facouture CUSTOM als: M n Fre arni luches

/// BEAUTY IN THE UNDERSTATED ///

/// EDITORIAL ///

Eyewear: ECO Dress: Angelos Frentzos

/// BEAUTY IN THE UNDERSTATED ///

Eyewear: GÖTTI Dress: Mila Schon

I

IAL

Ey Shirewear: Sk t: Ca MAT Sanirt: Zar lcaterr ERIKA a dal: a

by L Lou OOK is V OCC uitto n H

/// EDITORIAL ///

/// BEAUTY IN THE UNDERSTATED ///

Eye wea r: JO Fea HNN ther vest Shirt: Y LOC : Isa An bel nie PO Ben ato

/// EDITORIAL ///

Eyewear: MAX MARA by SAFILO Jumpsuit: Mila Schon

/// BEAUTY IN THE UNDERSTATED ///

Eyewear: FRANK CUSTOM Hood: N N couture Trousers: Fan Freluches Sandals: Marni

Ey Dreewear: ss: A BA lber RTO to Z N P amb ERR elli EIR A

/// EDITORIAL ///

eco-optics.com

O P T I | M U N I C H | M O D O | H A L L C 2 , S TA N D 5 0 9 1 0 0 % O P T I C A L | L O N D O N | M O D O | S TA N D E 0 8

ECO FRAME: GLOMMA CRY NATU RE IMAG E: G L AC IERS O F G REEN L AN D

/// ADVERTORIAL ///

YOU MAWO

Bespoke 3D laser sintered eyewear based on a 3D scan made in Germany YOU MAWO produces the most innovative frames in optics.

Their drive is unique and simple: YOU MAWO offers for each spectacle wearer a perfectly fitting, individualized frame. Bespoke eyewear made through a highly specialized scanning software, parametric 3D processes and additive manufacturing in Germany enables them to offer every person in the world a 100% individualized frame with pioneering materials.

YOU MAWO does not strive to be at the pulse of the time.

The young German company gained in less than 24 months the leading position in innovative 3D printed eyewear and does not follow trends but rather designs and develops them.

Individuality, biocompatibility, 3D scanning technologies and additive production are all wisely combined by YOU MAWO and create a synergistic product of highest quality, that is at least one step ahead of all other products that are known to the market. Innovative, individual design with best quality made in Germany.

The basis for the custom tailoring of the frame is the geometrical detection of the individual face topography of the customer via infrared scanner technology.

In a second step the parameterized design is used. The art of the specifically developed algorithms lies in a dynamic adaptation process of the chosen frame to the individual facial geometry, while maintaining the original character of the selected base design.

In the last step, the frames are individually manufactured for the customer through using the most advanced production technology in the world. The use of additive manufacturing technologies enables manufacturing of complex structures in individual production out of the biocompatible and 30% lighter than acetat material polyamide.

To be part of the future, visit www.youmawo.com or write to yeswescan@youmawo.com

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, a c i r f A by d e r i p s ...

In y l a t I in e d a m d han OPTI YES! AREA HALL C2 N. 407

MIDO DESIGN LAB HALL 2 n. M 45 sales@lgrworld.com lgrworld.com

VISION EXPO EAST UNDERGROUND AREA n. U 110

Presenting a new line of exceptional eyewear: GABE49 combines the innovative Snap-Joint horn hinge with new sustainable materials and unique designs.

opti 2018 Booth: Hall C2 / 125

handcrafted in austria.

www.gabe-eyewear.com

/// TRENDS ///

Glamorous chic Streamlined elegance by LINDBERG Precious in 18K solid white gold with diamond accents. lindberg.com

Opulent Indulgences Luxury – a sophisticated, comforting aesthetic. Sometimes it is a mysterious, extravagant manifestation that fosters a Bon Vivant spirit. Luxury is often identified with exquisite service; high-end art; global travel, expensive yachts and a multitude of other wealthy delights. Nowadays, the concept of luxury expands in our consciousness frequently as the appreciation of lost traditions. The optical world welcomes you to experience and enjoy contemporary variations that unite old world crafts with modern technology and improvements resulting in extraordinarily beautiful designs.

The new luxury is understated and discreet – pompous attitudes are replaced with savoir-faire taste and modest understatement.

Prestige and noble materials set the foundation for luxurious frames that expand the borders in eyewear: buffalo horn sustainably resourced; Italian marble; gold, silver, titanium and fine woods, plus precious jewels all adhere to the shift that is now less materialistic with more experiential inspirations.

Quality, refinement, and awareness define this uniquely personal experience – and the exciting opportunity to enjoy the brilliance of stunning optical creations.

/// TRENDS ///

Luxury Attitudes

by Joan Grady

01 / FALVIN EYEWEAR

MODEL SUB SOLAR DIAMONDS A cascade of diamonds adorns a stunning, elegantly shaped cat-eye frame. A flash of sparkle, two-tone titanium with distinctive detailing on the frame front, and sleek graphic lines, achieves a glamorous aura. Handcrafted in Japan. falvin.dk

02 / GOLD + WOOD

MODEL DONNA 03.O4 An orchestration of natural materials, exquisite shaping and beautiful colourations harmonise into a dynamic sunglass creation, with cool blue bevelled lenses. The gentle curves of the frame are enhanced with streamlined temples in ebony Tanganyika and electric blue birch. gold-and-wood.com

03 / ATELIER SWAROVSKI MODEL SKO147

The debut eyewear collection by Atelier Swarovski with Marcolin is infused with stylish sunglass silhouettes in beautiful materials; innovative techniques; elegant colourations; and opulent crystals from the highly acclaimed Austrian brand.

The sensuous cat-eye shape is embellished with crystal detail on slender temples. marcolin.com

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/// TRENDS ///

04 / BUDRI

MODEL PALLADIO Exclusive, unique, exceptional and revolutionary – the amazing synergy in Budri’s Italian marble eyewear heralds new horizons in frame crafting. The Pilot shape in Palladio is fabricated in marble with an amazing pattern. Stylish, artistic, and distinguished. budrieyewear.com

06 / MONOCEROS

05 / VON ARKEL

MODEL 0102 004 SUN7 Passion, innovation and the intricacies of precision Swiss watchmaking converge into a dramatic, opulent frame in black titanium and white diamonds.

Chic and streamlined with contemporary shaping, the refined details and immaculate crafting exude an aura of quiet sumptuousness from the Swiss brand. vonarkel.com

07 / MAYBACH

MODEL LIBRA Buffalo horn has long been a beautiful, precious material used for spectacles; it is soft and warm to the touch, yet strong and resilient. The buffalo horn now used in eyewear is eco-friendly, and the MONOCEROS Libra is created from a single piece of horn for total unity, handcrafted in Austria. monoceros.cc

MODEL THE BOSS 1 G-HRM-Z20 German brand Maybach creates the ultimate in luxury. Expressive, voluminous sunglasses are made with an especially rare and precious pale buffalo horn. The filigree ‘Fleur-de-Maybach’ mesh elements in the frames are refined with 24k gold. The retro shape is complemented with strong edges and delicate titanium elements. maybach-eyewear.com

08 / SILHOUETTE EYEWEAR

MODEL GALA 5513 Grandeur, luxury, and glamour epitomised 1950’s Hollywood. This memorable era in cinema is the inspiration for the Gala Collection by Silhouette that includes an exclusive, sophisticated flame shaped frame. The rimless design is highlighted with Swarovski flame shaped crystals on 23k gold plated temples. silhouette.com

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/// ADVERTORIAL ///

Plein Les Mirettes

The real luxury for Plein Les Mirettes is to design beautiful eyewear, not only in a traditional way - adapted to the different face shapes and personalities of women - but more than anything, in the most unique and precious way.

An extremely limited series... “For Your Eyes Only”!

These exclusive raw materials allow the manufacturer of Plein Les Mirettes Eyewear in Normandy to make limited series of 30 to 75 pieces. These small quantities, combined with the 6 to 8 new models that Plein Les Mirettes offers each quarter, have two main objectives: 1 / enabling the final wearer to enjoy their glasses to the utmost and ensuring their exclusive character and individuality 2 / ensuring a quick turn-over of proposals that opticians can present in their stores.

Plein Les Mirettes offers new colours specifically created for the brand. Each season Christophe Morcamp - CEO and Designer - visits Mazzucchell in Italy to design and validate the colour samples he has specially designed for his brand.

It is also an opportunity for him to go in search of vintage acetate plates preserved in the centenary archives of the world leader in Cellulose Acetate Manufacturing. All of these colours are carefully selected in response to the “fashion” trends of every season and / or countries where the collections of Plein Les Mirettes are available

Discover the Plein Les Mirettes collection at Opti Munich Hall C1! HOT Booth 331. plein-les-mirettes.fr

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/// RETAILING ///

BUY NOW: desirable accessories to highlight in-store New-season products to add to the mix

By Clodagh Norton

Chic optical boutiques don’t stop at eyewear collections. These stores are increasingly offering enticing fashion and eyewear accessories that complement their collections, and add a touch of colour and originality inside or in the window. 20/20 Europe found some favourites for 2018.

Storage, cases, stylish readers and jewellery. There are other stylish fashion products beyond the eyewear collections that the trendiest opticians in Europe love to stock. In keeping with the boutique style and modern optical concept stores, these covetable contemporary accessories add a new focus for the modern customer with an interest in design.

Eyewear storage: a growing trend As customers begin to consider more than one sunglass style or pair of glasses for their wardrobe, attractive storage has become more important. OYOBox from New York specialises in “luxury eyewear organizers” which store and organize a personal eyewear collection, accommodating up to eight pairs of sunglasses or glasses. The product has a luxury finish and come in a wide choice of colours including minimal white or Bamboo, and brighter colourways such as orange or red.

The OYOBox: handcrafted with seven layers of lacquer, this “organizer” features a shatterproof window and soft velvet underside cover.

“If you love your glasses you should be able to see and enjoy your full collection with ease” Bushakan eyewear stands in natural wood: made in San Francisco

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/// RETAILING ///

Other examples of design products for displaying eyewear include Bushakan’s solid wood eyewear stands – made in San Francisco. These displays are designed as objects of design for the house or the office (some accommodate a mobile phone and a frame), and come in varying sizes and woods such as maple or walnut.

The Little Truckin’ Goods - model F532 TED – from Freitag: a strong eyewear case with a soft lining suitable for sunglasses or optical frames

ANY DI “EYEccessory”

A Special Case Other accessory companies are also proposing unique, contemporary products to protect eyewear. Freitag, the wellknown Swiss bag and accessories label, has launched a selection of nine products including eyewear cases, key rings and wallets made from recycled truck tarpaulins, and launched in November 2017. The collection is named The Little Truckin’ Goods, drawing attention to the hard-wearing, colourful recycled material featured.

ANY DI Munich is a luxury handbag label with a designpatented bag strap system and unique ‘EYEccessory’ for holding sunglasses. The concept was created by professional tennis player, Anne Dickhardt, who, when travelling worldwide, found she never had just one bag that could safely hold everything and be worn comfortably, while still looking stylish and elegant. In 2015, Anne made her dream come true with the launch of ANY DI in Germany.

The Little Truckin’ Goods, a new small accessory range available from Freitag

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/// RETAILING ///

Also focusing on quality are the Austrian label SEEOO, who, in addition to their main optical line, produce trendy pince-nez style reading glasses, as well as special cases for their designs in striking colours. The most discreet pince-nez model is the SeeOO Light, the latest project by the Austrian company. The glasses are available with a cover for I-Phone 5/6/6Plus and a portfolio sticker for an agenda and i-Pad and chain. All the cases are made by hand by Italian leather goods producers.

Trendy readers with a distinctive design Readers are another popular gift idea or add-on purchase that have become more design focused than they have ever been.

The Dutch company – The Reading Company – launched Frank and Lucie to address a customer who requires a classic, stylish, timeless reader which goes with all types of clothing, and “never goes out of fashion”. Four different styles are available - the Eyebrow, Eyeball, Eyecon and Eyequarium and all the frames are available with five possible levels of correction: +1.0, +1.5, +2.0, +2.5 and +3.0.

SeeOO Light for iPhone: this product is an ideal ‘quick’companion, for reading and sending a text message or browsing through an email. SEEOO Light for iPhone has a phone cover with a small leather pocket that holds the pince-nez glasses. Available in five colours.

Frank and Lucie Reading Glasses: classics with a wide appeal

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O P T I H A L L C 2 S TA N D 1 0 5 @byjohnnyloco

johnny.loco.oďŹƒcial

johnnyloco.com

/// DESIGNER LIFE ///

DESIGNER LIFE

FLEYE COPENHAGEN Annette Esto is the striking red head at FLEYE Copenhagen, one of the original founders of the Danish brand and a creative force who loves nature, art and all things related to design. Winning the SILMO d’Or Premiere Classe Special Award at the international eyewear fair in Paris was one of the highlights of 2017 at FLEYE in a year that also saw the brand launch an exciting collection dedicated to Scandinavian food, intended to inspire with the colours, textures, and layerings of Danish smorrebrod. In line with the design identity, the brand has blended urban Nordic impulses with the classic simplicity for which the FLEYE frames have become known.

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/// DESIGNER LIFE ///

Model Jackson by FLEYE Copenhagen

“In collaboration with chef Rasmus Kjær, we created pieces of smørrebrød from seasonal colours. Then, together with photographer Columbus Leth, we documented the whole process from the single elements to the completed smørrebrød creations, ending up with small art pieces, some obvious in their inspiration and others much more abstract.”

FLEYE’s Headquarters “It is no secret that I am a nature lover. FLEYE’s headquarters are located in a manor house in the Danish countryside, 25 minutes outside Copenhagen. You feel relaxed as soon as you arrive at work because it’s so quiet here – hearing the birds sing, seeing deer and hares. It’s amazing all year-round. The colours change from season to season. I spend a lot of time traveling to big cities, so to me it is a nice contrast.”

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/// DESIGNER LIFE ///

Orvieto Cathedral, Italy ”I love to visit churches. One of my favorite churches is the beautiful, old cathedral in Orvieto, Italy. It has the most incredible, ornate facade and black/white horizontal striped stone walls. The delicately carved details and patterns are fascinating, and I always end up taking a hundred pictures on my smartphone for inspiration when designing eyewear.”

Summerhouse on Fyn “My summerhouse is the perfect getaway and I go here to relax as often as possible. I adore being in the countryside surrounded by beautiful nature. We have a cozy orangery in the garden where I love to sit in the evenings. The orangery is a must since the Danish weather can be very tricky.”

Homemade jam from my summerhouse “The berries around my summerhouse begin to ripen in the late spring and summer, and I really enjoy making my own jam.

Homemade jam tastes like summer in a jar and can be enjoyed year-round.

I usually make a huge amount of red currant jelly in order to have enough for Christmas Eve - it tastes delicious with duck.”

Beach view from my house “I’m lucky to live right by the beach; it’s an amazing place for exercise. Every morning I wake up early to jog 4km on the beach and I watch the sunrise. I find that morning exercise puts me in a calm and centered state. It is also a fantastic way to wake yourself up in the morning and increases productivity.”

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www.dilem.fr •

Š Oxibis Group 2017 - Registered brand - Pictures may differ from actual product - All rights reserved

Model 2CC20

dilem.lunettes

/// VIEW FROM THE US ///

Material Witness It took us by surprise. We recently set up plans for our annual frame materials issue for the 20/20 U.S. edition with dreams of a supreme battle between the committed forces of Metal versus Plastic. We figured that would touch on the basics of all metals and all zyl (and celluloid derived) materials with a nice balance of new colorations coming down the style road within these next few months at least. The resulting “call in” of eyewear from approximately 70 vendors played out a very different story centering on a combination of materials, tech, dimensions and permutations beyond even our wildest imagination.

Titanium would throw massive punches but its days of being the lightweight, hi-tech champ are over, now challenged by a vast invasion of 21st century metal and micro-fibre derived materials in a near out-of-control sweep of modern solutions. And the rainbow of acetate frames defies any sort of limitation and origin. Laser cut bevels and 3D printing is in a frontier of new discoveries totally putting eyewear manufacturing at the forefront of ALL accessory product design. At 20/20 we always took pride in fostering eyewear as the ultimate accessory but now, by virtue of its stand in terms of manufacturing and sourcing it truly IS the ultimate.

And all of this rapid “matter-tech” has fostered an Optiuniverse populated by a vast range of frame-to-face dimensions. With an uptick in rimless and semi-rimless styles edging out the previous half decade of nerd frames, there is definitely a new minimalism on the horizon… but… BUT… the real winner for the moment for sure is the whole frame-ina-frame look initially delivered by Blake Kuwahara just two short years ago. That look is everywhere in both independent and designer branded eyewear. It’s almost as if the two frame wardrobe dream has now manifested itself as two frames in one on the face at the same time!

And some of those frame-in-a-frame displays do so with a combination of materials that again proves our now ongoing point that when it comes to materials AND dimension…

Eyewear is the Ultimate Accessory. Embrace that message.

Proudly bear “material witness.” Declare YOUR position in this power play of delivering eyewear and sunwear demanding attention by virtue of its (and your) leadership position.

James Spina VP/Editor in Chief 20/20 USA

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84 - INTERVIEW // SAFILENS: the Italian contact lens innovators //

by Ester Alonso

86-90 - NEW PRODUCTS AND INNOVATIONS

// Contact Lenses // GfK reports rise in overall revenue in Asia for contact lens sales

// Ophthalmic Equipment // ASAHI VISION INC aLC-100 Lens Checker

// Machinery // MEI

// LENSES // ZEISS DriveSafe Lenses POLYRAY Sun Lenses TRANSITIONS OPTICAL Fashion Chrome Lenses HOYA extends progressive lens portfolio

// Frame Prototyping // STRATASYS

92 - CONTINUING EDUCATION // BLUE LIGHT REFOCUSED - SEPARATING SCIENCE FROM SPECULATION //

By Gary Morgan

/// EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY ///

SAFILENS: the Italian contact lens innovators Interview by Ester Alonso

“I’ve been with Safilens since it was just a good idea between friends”, says Alessandro Filippo, one of the founders of the Italian Contact Lens (CL) company. His career goes back to the origins of this business or at least the origins of its mass development: he has been designing and manufacturing (and selling) contact lenses for over 40 years both as consultant to “major” companies in this sector, and with his own companies as well. His work has been related to the development of new products: in terms of innovations in materials and design. Today, as in the past 17 years, Filippo is in charge of R&D, a subject that continues to fascinate him.

Alessandro Filippo,

R&D manager at Safilens

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/// INTERVIEW ///

Describe the CL market in Europe in 2017?

the trust, the diligence and the care of wearers.

We are in a temporary state of equilibrium due to several factors such as the economic climate of the past 4-5 years or the delay of the big players in realizing that the drop-outs and new fittings would stay the same unless something new was introduced into the market. There are excellent products available, but we must establish a tighter relationship between ECPs, Ophthalmologists and Manufacturers.

The drop-outs of prescribers are significant and the fruitful job of several R&D departments is still unknown by too many of those who address the wearer directly.

How would you Safilens in 2017?

Has the crisis of recent years affected the business?

Besides the figures that might or might not represent success, the biggest issue is found in the habits of the wearers that, too often, have chosen to adopt “casual” behaviours when it comes to CL wearing. We are dealing with medical devices the use of which must be accompanied by careful attention and compliance for the sake of health.

The situation is getting back to normal regarding the economy, in some areas at least and we now have to get back

summarize

2017 has been a very good year for Safilens, characterized by significant growth both at home and in all our key international markets, thanks to the new products in the portfolio and the new exclusive distribution agreements in several countries.

How has “fusion 1day astigma daily lens” been received?

So far, we have had a very positive response. We wanted to bring to the astigmatism segment a product that would be in line with the quality and performance of fusion 1day spherical and fusion 1day presbyo. It is still too early to properly evaluate commercial results but the feedback, both from opticians and wearers, is more than promising and it seems we started off on the right foot.

What’s new for 2018? Will there be a new release at Opti?

At Opti 2018 we will present fusion 1day vista, a daily disposable contact lens for asthenopia. After fusion

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1day (spherical), fusion 1day presbyo (for presbyopia) and fusion 1day astigma (for astigmatism), Safilens will be the world’s first company to have a daily disposable for asthenopia: this will make the fusion DD family the only one with four declinations covering each one of these vision related problems.

How will “fusion 1day vista” be rolled out?

After the launch at Opti, the product will be available in the German speaking markets and in Italy; following this the product will launch in the other countries, as we did for fusion 1day astigma.

The presentation will be supported by lectures or workshops about eyestrain related to video/screen usage. The first presentations will be held at Opti and at the GLS Symposium (Las Vegas).

In what position do you expect Safilens to be in by the year 2020?

Being one of the founders of Safilens, I can only wish for further excellence.

From a more objective point of view, I wish that Safilens will receive the recognition it deserves for what it has brought to the CL market and for what is still in the pipeline. safilens.com

/// EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY ///

NEW PRODUCTS A Lenses

ZEISS

ZEISS DriveSafe Lenses Spectacle wearers who drive require the following: better vision in low-light conditions for safer and more comfortable driving; reduced glare at night from oncoming cars or street lights; and clear visibility of the road, dashboard, rear-view mirror and side mirrors.

ZEISS DriveSafe Lenses, part of a lens product category for everyday use, is specifically designed to meet the vision needs of people who want to feel safer and more comfortable when driving with their everyday lenses. The lens offers three elements to make driving safer and more comfortable: Luminance Design® Technology by ZEISS which takes into account the pupil size in low-light conditions; ZEISS DuraVision DriveSafe Coating which reduces perceived glare; ZEISS DriveSafe Lenses are available in both single vision and progressive lens types.

ZEISS DriveSafe Lens Design incorporates an up to 43% larger mid-distance zone for easier focus switching between the dashboard and mirrors. And up to 14% larger far-distance vision zone for a wider view of the road.

zeiss.it (Italy) / zeiss.co.uk (UK)

Lenses

POLYRAY SUN LENSES Polyray, a leading innovator dedicated to the design and production of sun lenses for over 30 years, has recently announced its new collection of Infinity lateral shields.

The product is available in six feminine, light tinted colours: Babouche, Pistachio, Beige, Lilac, Plum and Navy.

The concept is Inspired by the delicate colours of nature with the combination of futuristic shapes and minimalistic design.

Polyray has again redefined the aesthetic of shield design. The shields are constructed in Nylon Fibre and feature revolutionary lateral wings, and have the advantage of lightweight elegance and superior clarity.

‘The lenses are our canvas’, says a spokesperson for the company. ‘Each design uniquely reflects our experiences and

surroundings filled with constant passion and ideas. We pull inspiration from all corners of our lives and we look forward to sharing our thoughts with you, and seeing you transform these lenses into something amazing.” hongtaig.com

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/// INNOVATIONS ///

AND INNOVATIONS Lenses

TRANSITIONS OPTICAL Fashion Chrome Lenses

Light adaptive lens technology specialists, Transitions Optical has launch its new ‘Fashion Chrome’ lenses. The ‘Fashion Chrome’ collection offers consumers the opportunity to have a more adventurous and trend-led second pair of glasses to make a statement compared to their every-day Transitions Signature lenses, says the company.

The lens features a mirrored effect combined with Transitions’ XTRActive lens technology – which protects the eyes from the brightest sun and harsh artificial light. It also allows the lenses to darken behind the windscreen of a car.

As with Style Colours launched early 2017, the new ‘Fashion Chrome lenses activated by Transitions’ aim to bring Transitions to a younger, more style and fashion-led individual.

The lenses are available in six fashionable colours, from Red Sunrise to Sea Green. wlclens.co.uk (for the UK) / transitions.com

Frame Prototyping

essential for a wide range of prototyping requirements. From initial concept iterations to complex multi-colour and advanced texture models, to precise functional models for performance testing, VeroFlex offers a more durable and flexible material for demanding internal tests prior to tooling and production. This provides eyewear manufacturers the ability to deliver products over a year faster and lead with the latest market trends, while improving salability of its products.

“The eyewear market continues to expand, driven by new technologies, demand for customization and growing addressable markets,” says Mike Vasquez, founder and CEO at the digital manufacturing consultancy, 3Degrees. “As the industry seeks to maximize its opportunity, Stratasys’ prototyping solutions for frames and eyewear accessories -- which can cut time-to-market by upwards of 80 percent -will be an attractive solution that is able to deliver immediate value for users looking to make parts with a high degree of mechanical function and appearance.”

For functional performance testing, the Stratasys VeroFlex material stands up to key eyewear-maker evaluation, including drop tests, lens-mounting, stress tests and wearability tests.

When used for design verification, the Stratasys VeroFlex material offers ultimate realism enabled by combining six new VeroFlex materials (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, White, Black, and Clear), and the ability to create and mix solid, opaque, transparent and colour shades in addition to simulating trueto-life textures such as wood grains, leather, stitching, bone, carbon-fiber, and photo-realistic images.

STRATASYS Stratasys, a global player in applied additive technology solutions, has released a new eyewear rapid prototyping solution. Stratasys developed the VeroFlex Rapid Prototyping Eyewear Solution to help manufacturers improve time-tomarket and cost-efficiency.

The new solution combines Stratasys’ J750 Multi-colour, Multimaterial 3D Printer with, VeroFlex, a new specially formulated 3D printing material for eyewear rapid prototyping needs.

VeroFlex offers a unique combination of stiffness and flexibility,

stratasys.com

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/// EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY ///

Lenses

HOYA

extends progressive lens portfolio As lifespans increase, most people can look forward to spending nearly half their lives as presbyopes. They also spend an increasing number of hours on digital, near vision devices, which requires changes in the design of lenses, especially for the presbyopic corrections.

Hoya’s progressive lens portfolio: improved and simplified In response to these modern visual demands Hoya have again extended their progressive lens range with the new Balansis and LifeStyle 3.

Four lens options HOYA now offers four lens options, clearly differentiated in benefits and price: from the standard progressive lens Amplitude to the 100% individualised Mystyle V+. In between, HOYA has added Balansis offering wide fields of view and Lifestyle 3, an advanced lens tuned to a wearer’s daily activities.

“While our products become more advanced, we make the portfolio simpler for the ECP…”

headaches. With Binocular Harmonization Technology™, LifeStyle 3 considers the right and left prescription as individual components, defines the required binocular lens design and calculates the necessary progressive distribution for each individual eye accordingly.

The result is precise and effortless focusing, improved stability and better depth of vision.

Product Highlight LifeStyle 3 - the latest Lifestyle progressive design from Hoya

Binocular Eye Model Each Hoya premium progressive design is evaluated and calculated according to the Binocular Eye Model. The model is a patented binocular performance measurement program that verifies each design under real-life circumstances before going into production. This provides unprecedented binocular performance: stable images and better depth of vision in everyday situations.

The latest addition to the portfolio is Lifestyle 3, a new and improved progressive lens design that responds to today’s vision challenges, and the particular needs of lens wearers.

Lifestyle 3 includes design variations that are specifically tailored to presbyopes’ active lifestyles.

Clear and simple differentiation LifeStyle 3 offers three design variations (Indoor, Urban and Outdoor) with clear differentiation. This makes it possible to customise the lenses to the customers’ vision requirements, without the need for complicated consultations. A few simple questions about the wearer’s lifestyle are enough to determine the right design.

What’s more, Hoya equipped LifeStyle 3 with premium Binocular Harmonization Technology™ and is verified with Hoya’s Binocular Eye Model.

Hoya’s simplified progressive lens portfolio In order to make our portfolio more transparent, Hoya has simplified its line of progressive lenses to make it easier to understand, easier to explain, and easier to prescribe. With LifeStyle 3, Hoya has expanded the progressive lens range to a comprehensive total of four lens options. Each is clearly differentiated in benefits.

Lifestyle 3 is customised to match the customer’s daily activities and can be selected based on the wearer’s lifestyle and preferences. Lifestyle 3 will replace the Hoyalux iD LifeStyle V+ lenses.

hoyavision.com

Binocular Harmonization Technology Even with the smallest prescription difference, the position at which light rays pass through a lens will be different for right and left. This may lead to a visual imbalance that can cause asthenopic complaints, such as tired and burning eyes and

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Contact Lenses

GfK

reports rise in overall revenue in Asia for contact lens sales

interesting trend is reflected in a growing attention towards Daily Contact Lenses (vs reusable), which in the industry often represents a sort of macro-indicator of the increasing sophistication towards Optical & Eyewear products. By looking at the overall competitive environment, this trend is usually triggered by international companies/Global brands, even though local regional manufacturers already started looking at the opportunities presented by this market scenario. Indeed the Optics Industry in APAC is evolving”.

By looking in detail within the different market segmentations of Daily Lenses, we discover that Daily Si-Hy are really skyrocketing (+62.3%), while Daily MF are growing at a rate of +56.8%. The above figures refer to Clear Daily lenses. On the other hand, if we look at Daily Beauty the growth is much “flatter”, being only +4.9%.

GfK announced the latest sales figures for key APAC optics markets at the Hong Kong Optical Fair 2017. The Contact Lenses consumer market in the 5 Asian countries monitored by GfK (South Korea, China*, Taiwan, Singapore and Malaysia) reached a new high of USD 652 million of revenue, up +2.2% in comparison with last year.

Among the five countries, the biggest contact lens market remains Korea which accounts for 46.6% of all sales in the Region but Taiwan is showing the most positive trend (+8.9%).

What can be seen as a moderate growing trend is in reality the result of very different situations in terms of market segment composition: if conventional lenses are particularly negative (-21.5%) Daily Lenses are really positive in the region: +8.7%.

“As the socio-economic development in the region continues, APAC consumers purchasing power growth starts also impacting their Eye Health Care awareness,” comments Gianni Cossar, Global Director for Optics & Eyewear at GfK. “This

“With one of the fastest ageing populations,” comments Fabricio Medeiros, Optics Regional Manager, APAC, “it makes sense that Asia is observing a double digit growth in lenses to correct Presbyopia – which mainly affects people aged 40 and above. As this segment is also growing steadily in mature markets, such as Europe, the proportional smaller size of it in Asia means that it has room to sustain its growth rate for many years to come.”

Globally, GfK is running Contact Lenses Point of Sales Tracking in nearly 30 Countries and advanced plans are in place in Australia and Hong Kong. In addition, insights are also provided on Ophthalmic Lenses and Eyewear products on selected geographies.

In South Korea, in addition to Sunglasses & VisionCare, GfK is also active with an innovative product called Contact Lenses Fit Audit which makes it possible to identify consumer choices when fitting Contact Lenses in Optical Stores. *China coverage is referred to the main 10 Cities. gfk.com

Ophthalmic Equipment

ASAHI VISION INC aLC-100 Lens Checker

The aLC-100 Lens Checker allows the optician to easily discover scratches, impurities, distortions or other defects on either contact lenses, spectacle lenses or lens blanks.

As an example, this feature allows Eye Care Professionals (ECPs) to alert patients about the necessity of a new set or upgraded services by showing the actual condition of their lenses on a monitor - right before their eyes.

By changing the illumination pattern, the ECP can find scratches, coating damages or lens distortions that cannot be seen with the naked eye. The aLC-100 is equipped with Darkfield and Bright-field microscopy to perform these tasks, at the push of a button. Also, it can be connected to a PC or Windows tablet through its built-in USB interface.

The aLC-100 Lens Checker is a useful tool for the observation of progressive identifier marks imprinted on the lens surface by manufacturers. Those marks provide useful information,

such as lens type, fabrication material, and manufacturer code number.

Best of all, ECPs can save the captured image or video data locally by using the provided software, which proves useful for keeping electronic records of the customers’ lens usage or for quality control purposes at the lens processing lab. asahi-vision.com

/// EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY ///

Machinery

MEI MEI is taking further steps to grow its business in the European marketplace with their official launch at Opti Munich in January.

Participating in this European trade show confirms MEI’s effort to penetrate the retail sector by showcasing its milling technology to small labs and shops and making direct contact with the EzFit target audience, including opticians.

As with Mido and SILMO, Opti will offer MEI the possibility to give up-close demonstrations to local and international industry professionals and to further explain to them the many advantages of their compact solutions for opticians and labs.

MEI’s booth at Opti Munich will be showcasing all the EzFit solutions, from the popular Advanced version to the recent NoBlock Developer version - whose integrated Shape Finder makes it possible to create jobs right in the machine - to the TBA version, the latest revolutionary addition to the EzFit range. In a single unit, EZFit TBA combines the functions of EZFit – the all-in-one edger designed to bring edging technology to small labs and retailers – with the inspection process and automatic TBA (Throw the Block Away) loading system. Already in use and widely tested on various models of MEI machines, TBA technology allows the user to control the power and cut without the use of centering blocks. Thanks to an integrated lens loading system that combines inspection, orientation and loading into a single internal process, there is no longer a need for centering blocks. The TBA unit significantly reduces production costs and increases the accuracy of lens centering, without increasing

shaping cycle times, according to the company.

MEI’s new Shape Finder EVO, in both its standard version and its Blocker version that allows direct lens blocking, and the innovative DCU EVO will also be on display at the Munich show. meisystem.com

LifeStyle 3 Easy as 1, 2, 3

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BLUE LIGHT REFOCUSED SEPARATING SCIENCE FROM SPECULATION

By Gary Morgan OD First published in 20/20 USA

Part 1

VISUAL BEHAVIOR AND ENVIRONMENT, A PARADIGM SHIFT In the last 10 years, two events have occurred that have altered our visual behavior and environment unlike any others in human history. First, mobile-connected digital devices including smartphones and tablets have become the mainstay of how we receive and transmit information. Their screens are backlit by LED bulbs.

SPECTACLE LENSES, MORE THAN VISION CORRECTION Historically, correction of refractive error has been the primary purpose of spectacle lenses. Secondarily, spectacle lenses have been used for workplace safety, and sun protection, primarily blocking UV light. However, a new era is upon the optical industry; attenuating short wavelength visible light (blue light) indoors to promote eye health and safety.

The scientific literature, detailing what is known and unknown about blue light and how it affects human vision and health is evolving. This science can be complicated, however all eyecare providers should endeavor to learn the facts to properly present new blue light attenuating lenses to patients.

Admirably, the optical industry has responded rapidly to introduce products to attenuate blue light, however product claims are sometimes not substantiated by the science. It is the responsibility of all eyecare providers to separate science from speculation.

Figure 1: Visible spectra of common light sources. Note that sunlight is the strongest source of blue light we are exposed to, while incandescent light bulbs emit the least blue light of electric light sources.

Flat panel monitors (computers, televisions), tablets and smartphones are backlit with LED bulbs.

2016 REPORTS IN US CAUSE FOR CONCERN

Second, by legislation, incandescent light bulbs are being replaced with more energy efficient CFL and LED bulbs. However, as with any time advances in technology are made, there may be unintended consequences. As seen in Figure 1, we have had an unprecedented increase in blue light exposure. And it is blue light that is the source of this extraordinary change in our visual behavior and environment.

Two reports published in 2016 by The Vision Council and by VSP Vision Care demonstrate the enormity of this problem. What is interesting about the timing of these reports is that scarcely

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five years ago, the subject of blue light exposure and its effects on the eye were fringe topics in eyecare. However within the last five years, the amount of blue light education presented for ophthalmology, optometry, and opticianry has increased significantly.

And it is not just professional awareness that has increased. Mainstream media reports have increasingly discussed the dangers that blue light exposure may pose. Highlights of The Vision Council report are that 90 percent of Americans use digital devices for two or more hours per day, 60 percent use them for five or more hours, and 65 percent experience symptoms of digital eye strain. 77 percent of individuals who suffer from digital eye strain use two or more devices simultaneously, yet 90 percent don’t discuss visual symptoms from device usage with their eyecare provider. About one third of respondents were unaware of computer-specific eyewear.

VSP’s report states that by the time the average American child reaches age 17, they will have spent over a third of their lives looking at digital devices. Parents are concerned about their children’s excessive screen time, with 44 percent stating they feel their kids are addicted to digital devices. Yet the majority, while perhaps having a parental inkling that something is wrong, are unable to specifically identify a problem with device usage. 58 percent of parents had little to no awareness that highenergy blue light is emitted from digital devices, and only 10 percent had taken steps to safeguard their families from blue light.

wavelength (thus the highest energy) of visible light. Blue light is able to penetrate the cornea and lens and is incident on the retina. Science links cumulative lifetime blue light exposure from sunlight to the development of age-related macular degeneration (AMD), the leading cause of blindness for those over age 55 in developed countries.

THE ELECTROMAGNETIC SPECTRUM AND WAVELENGTH OF LIGHT

Figure 2: Blue light is myopically defocused, creating a blur circle on the retina surrounding the in focus green component of visible light. This is known as chromatic aberration and degrades visual quality.

As inhabitants of the earth, we are surrounded by waves, some damaging, some benign. Wavelength is the key to understanding which waves cause harm.

Shorter wavelengths have higher energy with greater potential to cause damage, while longer wavelengths are relatively harmless. All waves are part of the electromagnetic spectrum. Visible light wavelengths, 400 nm to 750 nm used for human vision, make up a fraction of the total electromagnetic spectrum.

Adjacent to the shortest visible light waves are UV wavelengths ranging from 100-400 nm.

Blue light is defined as wavelengths from 400-500 nm. Note that this is adjacent to UV light and has the shortest

HOW THE EYE PROCESSES LIGHT: VISUAL AND NON-VISUAL FUNCTION The human eye contains three types of photoreceptors. Cones and rods are responsible for visual function. Cones are located in the macula, are active in bright to dim environments, provide color vision, and are responsible for detailed visual acuity. Rods are located outside the macula, are active in dim to dark environments, are not capable of color vision, and do not provide detailed visual acuity. Intrinsically photosensitive retinal ganglion cells (ipRGCs) are responsible for nonvisual function. They are located throughout the retina and contain the photopigment melanopsin, a key mediator of non-image forming neurologic pathways.

HOW VISIBLE LIGHT BEHAVES IN THE EYE

Blue light is detrimental to vision in that shorter wavelengths are out of focus, and the retina lacks processing power for it. The macula contains predominantly long wavelength red cones, followed by medium wavelength green cones, with only 2 percent of cones being short wavelength blue. In Figure 2, we can see that in the refractively corrected eye, green light is in focus on the macula. Longer wavelength red light is mildly hyperopically defocused, by approximately +0.50D. Shorter wavelength blue light is significantly myopically defocused, by approximately -1.00D. This creates a violet-blue blur circle, or haze around the in focus green component of light. This phenomenon is known as chromatic aberration and significantly affects visual quality.

Blue light diminishes visual quality in that its short, out of focus wavelengths reduce contrast. It is well known that brown sun lenses enhance contrast. This is due to the fact that brown tints limit blue light. Glare, defined as exposure to a light source exceeding our retinal adapted state, also diminishes visual quality. Glare is worsened by blue light as its short wavelengths are scattered the most intraocularly. Blue light sources such as electronic screens or the sun can worsen glare, causing discomfort or disability depending on brightness.

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Figure 3: Inverse Square Law - Intensity = 1 / Distance2 The resulting intensity is exponentially increased, therefore a child holding a digital screen at 8 inches is getting approximately 4x the blue light intensity as an adult holding the same device at 16 inches.

DIGITAL EYE STRAIN When viewing electronic devices, myopically defocused blue light results in what is now termed digital eye strain. The Vision Council defines digital eye strain as “the physical eye discomfort felt by many individuals after two or more hours in front of a digital screen”. In a 2014 survey conducted by VSP, eyecare providers reported a 50 percent increase in patient complaints of digital eye strain and effects of blue light exposure. Also stated was a 38 percent increase in these same complaints from children. Without intervention, reports containing statistics such as these will likely increase.

The symptoms of digital eye strain can be broken down into three causes: proximity of the light source (digital device) to the eye, intensity of light from the source, and frequency and duration of exposure. In considering ways to alleviate symptoms, keeping these causes in mind can guide treatment recommendations.

Proximity. We tend to hold digital device screens closer to our eyes. This increases demands placed on our accommodation and vergence systems.

In a 2011 study published in Optometry and Vision Science, it was demonstrated that mean working distance is decreased when viewing digital devices. In comparison to the 16” distance that a typical adult holds hard copy text, when using a smartphone, working distances decreased. Their findings showed that when viewing a text message, working distance decreased to 14.25 inches, and when viewing websites, to 12.68 inches. They state that these closer working distances will place increased demands on accommodation and vergence, especially with extended viewing time. Consequently, symptoms of visual discomfort may be exacerbated when compared to longer viewing distances used when reading hard copy material. They conclude that practitioners need to consider closer distances adopted while viewing material on smartphones when examining patients, and prescribe refractive corrections based on closer working distances. In other words, standard age appropriate add powers need to be increased to adjust for closer working distances, especially when treating patients presenting with asthenopia associated with digital device usage.

Intensity. The Intensity of light from digital devices is dependent on the distance the device is held from the eyes.

If you are familiar with lighting and photography, you know that the Inverse Square Law states that the intensity of a light source is equal to 1 over the distance squared

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(Figure 3). What this means concerning light exposure is that a child holding an iPhone or iPad at 8 inches is getting approximately 4 times the light, including blue light, as an adult holding the same device at 16 inches. And as discussed above, adults are holding smartphones closer for viewing text messages and websites, increasing the light intensity their eyes receive. This added light intensity can affect the feeling of fatigue we experience from using digital screens.

Frequency and Duration of Exposure.

The number of times during the day that we look at digital screens and the amount of time spent looking during each episode affects symptoms of digital eye strain.

Evidence of increasing frequency and duration of exposure to hand held digital devices is all around us; just observe tables of people in restaurants all looking at their smartphones. A recent report showed that in 2014, the minutes per day spent looking at mobile-connected digital devices surpassed the number of minutes spent looking at a TV screen.

Part 2 of this article will be published in our next issue.

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