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always time for bubbly…

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BY COLETTE BANCROFT

rance is one of my favorite travel destinations but, alas, one that my budget doesn’t let me visit often enough. Fortunately, it’s easy enough to console myself with a flute full of the flavor of France. Champagne is only as far away as the nearest wine store. (You can rest assured that if a wine is labeled “Champagne,” it really does hail from France. The appellation is fiercely protected.) Among Champagnes, the usual suspects are always delightful (Veuve Clicquot is a longtime favorite), but it’s lovely to try something new — and to find that an excellent Champagne doesn’t have to have a price tag in three figures.

PERTOIS-MORISET GRAND CRU BRUT BLANC DE BLANC One recent discovery for me is Pertois-Moriset Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Blanc (about $40 at Total Wine). The winery was founded in 1951 by Yves Pertois and his wife, Janine Moriset, both third-generation winemakers. It’s run today by their son and his family, with 70 percent of their vineyards in the Côte des Blancs, including the four Grand Cru-rated villages of Cramant, Avize, Oger and Mesnil. The wine is an elegant pale straw color, and it explodes into a riot of tiny, vigorous bubbles in the glass, releasing aromas of ripe pear and yeasty brioche. Take a sip, and another, and those flavors layer over peaches and cream with hints of honey and vanilla, that rich mouth feel balanced by a subtle tart touch of clementine and a surprisingly crisp, stony finish. I’m happy to savor a wine this delicious all by itself, but in terms of food pairings, the Pertois-Moriset lends itself to a couple of the classics: oysters and caviar. Its lushness would provide a counterpoint to either the cool brininess of raw oysters or the smoky umami of caviar.

Bay Magazine - March, 2017  

Fly Away. Vol. 10, No. 5. Copyright 2017.

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