Warren Street Bar & Restaurant Photo: Simon Brown
Bites of the BIG Apple When there’s a fall chill in the air, a food lover’s fancy turns to big city dining. BY BEVERLY STEPHEN
T
he most anticipated opening was five years in the making. Le Veau d’Or, a venerable Upper East Side French establishment, was rejuvenated by the Frenchette duo Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr.
The tables are covered with red checkered cloths as they were when the restaurant opened in 1937. The look was intended to be more casual than the fancy French places of that day. And a casual look is fine with the current owners too. The $125 prix fixe menu may not seem casual but it’s a bargain compared to many of the tasting menus around town. Diners can expect French classics: pâté en croûte, escargots, frogs legs persillade, even tripes à la mode. And ile flottante for dessert! If you wish you were in Paris, this may be just the ticket.
Or if you wish you were in Italy, there’s Massara (913 Broadway) from the Michelin starred pasta whisperers at Rezdora, where the menu celebrates Emilia Romagna. Massara focuses on Campania “from the fresh seafood sourced on the Amalfi coast, to iconic pizza from Naples,” says Chef Stefano Secchi. This team won’t overlook pasta but mains such as a whole heritage goat braised, roasted, and grilled demands attention as does Langostino with Sorrento lemon zabaglione. A catch of the day is sourced from Dock to Dish, a sustainable seafood supplier in Montauk. Speaking of Italian, Roberta’s of pizza fame in Bushwick has now opened in the Penn District right by Penn Station. Very unassuming looking but it’s turning out its signature pizzas from a wood burning oven.
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9/16/24 6:49 PM