Photo: Anders Husa
A true taste of Denmark For a genuine experience of Nordic cuisine, look no further than the quintessentially Danish Christianshavn Færgecafé in one of the capital’s oldest, most charming neighbourhoods. Here, you can sample outstanding old-school classics with a contemporary twist, served with a side or two of homemade snaps. By Trine Jensen-Martin | Photos: Mikkel Bækgaard
When Erik Frandsen took over Christianshavn Færgecafè (CF) eight years ago, he wanted to create somewhere he would want to eat himself, somewhere for the whole family – a space for any celebration or event. “This place is a people place, for children and grown-ups alike. I love seeing a three-year-old with his or her first big plate of our ‘stegt flæsk’ [a muchloved Danish dish of fried pork belly] and to see them return over the years too,” says Frandsen – or the captain, as he is lovingly referred to by staff and locals. Family and a heartfelt welcome are at the core of CF, both its food and its peo56 | Issue 137 | December 2021
ple. They are self-confessed food nerds, who take everything from their smørrebrød to their evening menu equally seriously. “We want people to get to know Danish food and cooking, and to feel like
many of us feel when we sit at our mother’s table sharing a meal with family and friends,” Frandsen explains. It is about much more than food: the quality is all-important, but the way you eat, the enjoyment and the ritual, is crucial. On their website, they even have suggestions for songs to sing as you toast your snaps and enjoy your food – an element that most Danes recognise from gatherings involving a shared meal. Snaps does something different
Gents toasting their snaps.
“We want to dust off the slightly oldfashioned and outdated image that snaps has, to give it a fresh identity,” says Frandsen. Craft beer from micro-breweries and whiskey from independent distillers are nothing new these days, he argues, but in some ways snaps is. “Snaps does something very different to other spirits,” he says. “It is perfect for clearing the palate