A Quick Tour of the Loire Valley

By Jeffrey M. Kralik, PhD (The Drunken Cyclist)

Understanding French wine is not easy. Sure, there are regions like Burgundy where it is rather straightforward: red is Pinot Noir and white is Chardonnay. But then there are regions like, say, Châteauneuf-du-Pape where there are six varieties allowed in the white version and thirteen in the more widely available red. And don’t even get me started on the Languedoc, where there are no hard and fast rules. Somewhere in between on the difficult-to-understand scale is the Loire Valley where, for the most part, Melon de Bourgogne is in the far west, Chenin Blanc is mostly in the center, and Sauvignon Blanc dominates the eastern third of the appellation. Similarly, Cabernet Franc is grown in the center of the appellation while Pinot Noir and, increasingly, Gamay, can be found in the east (the western third of the appellation does not produce red wines). I recently made a bike trip through the Loire Valley, focusing on the towns and vineyards in the east and central parts of the appellation (and visited a few castles along the way).

2021 Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Les Baronnes, Loire Valley, France: Retail $30. Under screw cap. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. The combination of fruit and racy acidity defines for me the queen of Sauvignon Blanc. Outstanding. 93 Points.

2021 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny Delaille, Loire Valley, France: Retail $22.5. 5% Pinot Noir, 43% Gamay, 2% Côt. Two words on the bottle convinced me to buy this wine from a producer that I did not know: “Kermit Lynch”, one of the best importers of French wine in the US. Tart, “dirty” cherry dominates, but the balance is fantastic and when paired with some food? This is close to other worldly. Excellent. 92 Points.

2019 Domaine Pichot Vouvray Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette, Loire Valley, France: Retail $20. 100% Chenin Blanc. A classic wine from a noted producer, this is, in many ways, the essence of Vouvray. Racy and fruity, but also a bit sweet, this has been the soul of Vouvray for centuries. The key to balance the sweetness, of course, is a zingy acidity, and this wine has it in spades, along with tree fruit a go-go. Excellent. 91 Points.

2017 Couly-Dutheil Chinon La Baronnie Madeleine, Loire Valley, France: Retail $22. 100% Cabernet Franc. This wine is spectacular, particularly after some time open. Dark in the glass in both color and aroma, it is loaded with plum, blackberry, and a whole rack of spice. One of my go-to Cab Francs. Outstanding. 93 Points.

NV De Valloie Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé, Saumur, France: Pale to medium pink in the glass with oodles of red raspberry. The fruit dominates initially, but then the tartness comes in on the mid-palate, as does an ever-so-slight level of sweetness. Excellent 91 Points.