Taste
I Can See Clearly Now
First Flight It’s all about taking care of people. That’s what Jordan Davis, who has cooked for some high-profile restaurateurs over his two-decade career, including Nancy Oakes of San Francisco’s Boulevard and “Top Chef” alum Brian Malarkey of Herb & Wood in San Diego, brings to the experience of launching a restaurant of his own, Flock, which opened in Folsom in February. “I tell my staff all the time: We are in the business of yes,” says Davis. “That’s how I lead in the kitchen. My ego is completely unimportant when it comes to serving the guests. We do whatever we can to make them happy.” It seems to be working. Locals who appreciate good eats are, well, flocking to the eatery. Flock’s menu is at once familiar and novel. “My idea was to make some delicious food that isn’t over people’s heads but is interesting,” Davis explains. Pizzas are a staple, and Davis puts his personal stamp on them by focusing on quality ingredients and the extra effort it takes to turn out a terrific crust. “We use a three-day cold-fermented dough, which Jordan Davis helps build up the flavor,” explains Davis. “And we’re not topping them in the traditional way. I lead first with vegetables and herbs, with protein as a supporting cast member. I love the idea of seasonality, even as it pertains to pizza.” That translates to inventive pies that pair, say, asparagus with red onion or broccolini and lemon with fennel sausage. As much as the pizzas at Flock shine, the entrées more than hold their own. A citrus-brined, spice-rubbed chicken—roasted so perfectly that it makes you fall in love with this humble bird all over again—hints at a passion of Davis’s. “Initially I wanted to open a place that only served pizza and chicken, but I knew I couldn’t pigeonhole myself like that.” So he added some thoughtfully conceived dishes to round out the menu, including Ora King salmon with luscious cumin yogurt and charred lemon, and New York strip dressed up with a bright shishito salsa verde. Even the sides and appetizers are treated with care. Brussels sprouts are taken to a new level when tossed with lime, chili, mint and crunchy peanuts. Tender Spanish octopus, with olive relish and preserved lemon aioli, is like a mini vacation to Barcelona. If everything goes to plan, Davis hopes to bring his interpretation of hospitality and contemporary, ingredient-driven food to other parts of the Sacramento region. “We don’t want to stop with Folsom,” he says. 185 Placerville Road, Folsom; (916) 694-0202; flockpizza.com—CATHERINE WARMERDAM
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The Block Artisan Ice Co.
Below: Anna Wick
Pepperoni pizza from Flock
A few years ago, Matt Briggs had what you might call a cool idea: to launch an artisan ice business servicing Sacramento’s bars and restaurants. Having worked at fine dining establishments in Hawaii for 12 years, the former bartender and Sacramento native did some research and learned that high-end bars in cities like Miami and Los Angeles sourced their ice from vendors who turn out crystal-clear cubes that make cocktails look gorgeous and taste better. Thus was The Block Artisan Ice Co. born. Conventional ice is marred by THE COMPANY SELLS TWO cloudiness, so Briggs employs a SPECIAL CUTS NAMED AFTER special ice maker that agitates the LOCAL BARS: THE SNUG water as it freezes from the bottom CUT, A SLIM RECTANGLE FOR up, resulting in pristine, glasslike SHORT TUMBLERS, AND THE TROPHY CUT, A 5-INCH-LONG blocks. He uses an Alaskan lumber mill chainsaw to cut the 400SPEAR FOR HIGHBALLS. pound blocks into slabs, which are further cut into bars and then fist-size cubes using a band saw and a commercial meat slicer. Because the water Briggs uses is highly filtered, it doesn’t contain any of the impurities that could alter a drink’s flavor. The company currently sells its ice to a couple dozen bars and restaurants in Sacramento, Napa and Reno. “Artisan cocktails have been on the rise for years now, and ice is just another ingredient to take the drink to the next level,” explains Brigg’s sister and co-owner, Heather Briggs. “Our ice doesn’t water down the drink, and it’s beautiful to look at.” Bars can even imprint their logo onto cubes using brass stamps that the company has fabricated. The owners hope to make artisan ice the norm at fine restaurants and bars and even with home bartenders looking to step up their game. The cubes are sold at select Nugget Markets and at their facility. Custom orders—think fruit, herbs or even entire bouquets frozen into cubes—are also available. (707) 721-2383; blockice.com—CATHERINE WARMERDAM
SACRAMENTO MAGAZINE May 2022
Taste 0522.indd 92
4/11/22 4:38 PM