Quench December 2015

Page 37

HIGHLAND PARK VALHALLA COLLECTION “THOR” 16 YEAR OLD ($250/700 ML) The first of four unique whiskies released annually by Highland Park under the Valhalla Collection umbrella. Bottled at 52.1% and eye-catchingly packaged, Thor offers up a complex aromatic profile with cognac-like nuances buttressed by smoke, cocoa, ginger, toasted nuts, cigar box and a bare whiff of tar. With a dash of water to temper the heat, the whisky displays an intriguing mélange of brine, smoke, tobacco leaf, dried fruit and exotic spices. Like a hammer wrapped in velvet.

HIGHLAND PARK VALHALLA COLLECTION “FREYA” 15 YEAR OLD ($330/700 ML) With Freya, Highland Park celebrates the release of the third expression in its limited edition Valhalla Collection. Aged entirely in ex-bourbon casks (a first for Highland Park), this is an exceptional dram with an intense, exquisitely fresh nose of honeyed grain, apple, tropical fruit, brine, vanilla, citrus and bright floral nuances. Creamy and rich in the mouth with suggestions of candied citrus peel, ginger and a subtle, underlying smokiness. Though bottled at 51.2% ABV, the finish is both remarkably gentle, hauntingly long and complex; as beguiling and mysterious (and beautiful) as the Norse goddess herself.

HIGHLAND PARK DARK ORIGINS NAS ($100) An homage to Highland Park founder Magnus Eunson who, by day, held “legit” jobs, but by night worked as a illicit distiller and smuggler. Sherry-cask aged, it offers up notes of dark chocolate, cocoa powder and cherry compote, with some cinnamon, heather, banana, nutty sherry notes and polished wood taking up the slack. In the mouth, spicy raisin pie, traces of smoke, vanilla and toasted nuts dominate until they trail off into a spicy, caramel-tinged memory. Another typically first-rate expression from Highland Park.

HIGHLAND PARK 12 YEAR OLD ($75) Very fresh, slightly briny and barely smoky with buckwheat honey and toasted barley notes. A touch of orange zest, clove and caramel round out the complex and enticing aroma. Silky, creamy and

palate-coating, it brings together subtle honey with a touch of smoke; orange chocolate with a hint of vanilla. Finishes long with enticing marmalade and fruitcake notes.

ISLE OF ARRAN ROBERT BURNS SINGLE MALT NAS ($53/700 ML) Cocoa powder with lemon, spearmint, lavender, polished wood and cut grass nuances combining on the nose. Quite gentle in the mouth with a nice viscous mouthfeel. Flavours lean toward malty/toasty, but with distinctive citrus/herbal overtones showing through. A light grind of white pepper as it finishes.

ISLE OF ARRAN 10 YEAR OLD SINGLE MALT ($70/700 ML) Delicate and charming aromatically with distinct butterscotch, floral, citrus notes. This is a great example of why “island” does not necessarily mean smoky/peaty/medicinal. Certainly no detectable peat overtones here; rather, it’s delicate, poised and captivating without being aggressive/loud/showy. There are also hints of vanilla and icing sugar. At 46% ABV it seems neither hot nor overly spicy. Just silky, clean and nicely understated. A dram that keeps you coming back.

ISLE OF ARRAN 14 YEAR OLD SINGLE MALT ($99/700 ML) You do get a bit of the seaside coming through in this one. A subtle hint of ocean spray that reminds me, in a way, of Springbank - which lies just to the north on the Kintyre peninsula. There’s butterscotch, too, and a dash of anise, along with hard toffee and candied orange. Peppery, clean and distinctive - a great dram for those who prefer subtlety and elegance over brute power.

ISLE OF ARRAN AMARONE CASK SINGLE MALT ($90/700 ML) Rich, heady, autumn leaves and caramelized brown sugar on the nose with raisin pie and barley malt topping things off. There’s also that cocoa powder thing that seems to weave a thread through The Isle of Arran’s malts. The Amazon cask adds a layer of warm, extracted fruit, but the overall character of the distillery’s style remains intact. Bold yet balanced with an engaging vinous quality to the finish.

DECEMBER 2015/JANUARY 2016 × QUENCH.ME × 37


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