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By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

Sylvia Jansen with Phillipe Zinck, Alsace, France

What’s fair to you?

When I was giving a talk on the history of wine a few years ago, I mentioned that the average vineyard landholding in much of Europe is about the size of a major league baseball field (one hectare, 100 m x 100 m). That detail led the group down an interesting rabbit hole. Participants were astounded that thousands upon thousands of wine producers in the world work hard on small wine farms. And thousands upon thousands of these people also use the fruit from that small area to make wine and sell it. Their trade is growing grapes from their vineyards and making it into wine that bears their name, often simply a family name.

How many thousands of producers takes some deductive work. Consider this: 50% of the world wine production comes from just three European countries: Spain, Italy, and France. Yes, you read that right: one out of every two bottles sold in the world comes from one of these places. Add to that detail the fact that, in Spain and Italy, the average vineyard holding is just over one hectare. Even in France, where the average holding is larger, the wine industry is represented by some 20,000 wine producers. Very few producers make a ton of money from production that small. Mostly they just get by.

The people behind these wines are, by and large, farmers. Sometimes they work with their friends and neighbours to produce wine. Their labels are not often eye-catching, but the wine inside is often interesting, nuanced, and sometimes amazing. They sell it from their winery door, rent small booths at wine shows, travel (if they can afford it), and do their own social media (when they have time): the wine equivalent of farmers at our local garden markets.

These farmers love making wine, not just growing grapes, but to make a good living, they need to have a wider market than their own front door. They need fair access to international markets and a short supply chain. They need fair, long-term trading partnerships. Importantly, they need consumers and wine lovers—us—to understand and care about who they are and what they produce. This also adds up to a lot of different wine choices in the world market. The challenge is that we live in a world accidentally tipped against those who make only a few thousand bottles of wine. We often shop for wine the way we shop for jeans: by familiar label, by the known brand, by the safe choice. But if we do so, we accidentally discourage these small producers from going it on their own.

Earlier this year, when the COVID lockdown began, I decided to stock up on wines from small winemakers, as a project in fair trading through pulling corks and pouring wine. A few of my friends did the same, and we coped with our isolation by video conference, enjoying the same wine on the same evening. For the producers of these wines, it was truly a meaningful gesture, worthy of personal responses to my posts, emails, and texts.

I should not have been surprised. Wine is not just a commodity. It can be a connection among people.

So here’s to you, in all fairness. 

WESTERN CANADA’S PREMIER WINE AND DRINKS EDUCATION FACILITY OFFERS WINE, BEER, AND SPIRITS COURSES FOR EVERYONE FROM THE HOBBYIST TO THE PROFESSIONAL.

We were grateful that the summer graduation day brought sunny skies and a good breeze: on July 28, 2020, we threw open the patio doors of the Tuscan Room of Jones & Company Wine Merchants and assembled the graduates, classmates, and a few supportive representatives to celebrate Manitoba’s newest Sommeliers.

The challenging program, accredited by the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS) and the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI), began in January 2018. The two-year program included comprehensive study in the world’s wines, spirits, and beverages; rigorous assignments and theory examinations; multiple blind tastings; dedicated industry hands-on service practicums; Sommelier management projects; and a rigorous final certification examination. COVID-19 added to the stress and complication, with the final certification exam held by video conferencing. Each candidate set their own private virtual restaurant space and subjected themselves to the intense scrutiny of the judging panel for the food pairing and wine service exams.

It is only through a deep love of the subject, incredible dedication, and monumental perseverance that these people have gained certification as Professional Sommeliers. When you encounter them, we encourage you to seek their advice. You will discover that they also bring with them an infectious passion for wine and drinks!

Back row, our new Sommeliers: Dylan Keats, Seema Pal, Kathryn Boultbee, Alexandra Allardyce, Joshua Schettler; Front row: instructors of the 2020 graduating class: Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Andrea Eby

The newly certified Professional Sommeliers are:

Alexandra Allardyce (Manitoba Club, Sommelier and Elevage Selections, Sales Representative) Kathryn Boultbee (Manitoba Liquor and Lotteries, Product Ambassador) Dylan Keats (Academy Hospitality, GM of Gusto North and Rose Bar) Seema Pal (Independent Consultant) Joshua Schettler (Academy Hospitality; Sommelier, Pizzeria Gusto)

WINE&DRINKS

Jones & Company Wine Merchants partners with Manitoba’s finest restaurants to develop the perfect wine list.

For more information about partnering with us, contact Todd Antonation, todd@joneswines.com

529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. 529 has become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529.

529 Wellington Crescent 529wellington.ca Regarded by many as one of the best restaurants in Winnipeg, Beaujena’s French Table provides a truly unique dining experience. Seven-course surprise dinners featuring Chef/Owner Randy Reynolds’ modern interpretations of French and Mediterranean Cuisine combined with his wife Beaujena’s warmth and hospitality make dining here special, regardless of the occasion. 302 Hamel Avenue beaujenas.com Located in the Kildonan Park pavilion overlooking the duck pond, Prairie’s Edge offers a locally sourced, prairie-inspired menu, including favourites such as beet fritters, Arctic char, and brisket. The large dining room windows offer beautiful views of the park, or you can grab burgers, fries, or a fried chicken sandwich at their takeout window. Restaurant: Wednesday to Sunday, 10–8; Takeout Window: Wednesday to Sunday, 11:30–7:30. Pavilion in Kildonan Park prairiesedgewpg.ca From the land to the table: fresh, local, house-made. These are the words we live by. Peasant Cookery strives for flavours that can only come from the best ingredients, prepared with exacting standards. We take dishes from the past and make them taste like they are from our own backyard. A Wine Spectator Award of Excellence wine list, and the service to match. Join us at our table on the corner of King & Bannatyne.

100-283 Bannatyne Avenue peasantcookery.ca Located in the town of Bird’s Hill, just 10 minutes outside of the city, Jonesy’s Restaurant + Lounge serves upscale homestyle cooking to locals and destination diners. The diverse menu caters to every palate: from Jonesy’s Onion Blossom to steak and ribs, to Manitoba pickerel and burgers. Join us for daily features, visit the lounge, or book the Private Dining Room for small gatherings.

3133 Bird’s Hill Rd, East St Paul

Jonesysrestaurant.ca Across the Board Aevi Spa Salon Boutique Aikens Lake Wilderness Lodge Amsterdam Tea Room Canadian Brewhouse Café 22 Café Dario Chino’s Bistro (Steinbach) Cibo Waterfront Café Cordova Tapas & Wine D-Jay’s Restaurant Deluca’s Cooking School and Restaurant De Luca’s Specialty Foods Diana’s Cucina and Lounge Earl’s Restaurant and Bar Enoteca ERA Bistro at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights Fifth Hair Lounge and Beauty Bar Forth Frankie’s Italian Kitchen & Bar Good Earth Coffee House

Gusto North Hotel Fort Garry Hy’s Steakhouse Inferno’s Bistro Joey Restaurants Joey’s Only Seafood Jonesy’s Restaurant Junction 59 Roadhouse King & Bannatyne La Roca Le Cercle Molière Local Public Eatery Máquè Manitoba Club Mere Hotel Mon Ami Louis Monticchio Ristorante Italiano Mottola Grocery Olive Garden Passero and Corto Pauline PF Chang’s Pizzeria Gusto Preservation Hall Eatery and Wine Bar Rae & Jerry’s Rae’s Bistro Riverside Inn Rose Bar Royal Manitoba Theatre Centre Sabai Thai SMITH Restaurant South Beach Casino & Resort St. Charles Country Club Tapp’s Neighbourhood Pub The Alt Hotel The Common The Magic Room and Spa The Merchant Kitchen The Mitchell Block The Oxbow The Roost The Victoria Inn The Wood Tavern Thermëa Spa Tony Roma’s Urban Prairie Cuisine Vera Cucina VG Restaurant at the Fairmont Wasabi Sabi

Akilia 2016 Villa de San Lorenzo Mencia Bierzo, Spain $19.99.................................................................................................34 Aizpurua 2018 Getariako Txakolina País Vasco, Spain $18.99..................................................................................................26 Alpha Estates 2015 Axia Macedonia, Greece $23.99.................................................................................................................62 Barbadillo nv Solear Manzanilla Sherry Sanlúchar de Barrameda, Spain (375 ml) $9.99 ...................................................... Insert Bat Gara 2017 UNO Arabako Txakolina País Vasco, Spain $21.99 .................................................................................... 26, 34 Bertha Cava 2017 Lounge Cava Brut Penedes, Spain $29.99.....................................................................................................33 Bodega Lanzaga 2017 La Estrada Rioja, Spain $128.99 ............................................................................................................40 Bodega Lanzaga 2017 LZ Rioja, Spain $21.99 ..................................................................................................................... Insert Bodegas Fernandez Rivera 2013 Dehesa La Granja Castilla Y Leon, Spain $27.99 ...................................................................36 Bon Courage 2019 Unwooded Chardonnay Robertson, South Africa $18.99............................................................................24 Chateau Haut-Peyraguey 2017 Clos Haut-Peyraguey Sauternes, France (375 ml) $51.99 ..........................................................14 Christmas Baskets ($25–$175)...................................................................................................................................................43 Clos Berenguer 2017 Min Priorat, Spain $24.99 ........................................................................................................................36 Clos de Tafall 2016 Priorat, Spain $24.99............................................................................................................................. Insert Domaine Astruc 2017 Merlot, South of France $15.99..............................................................................................................25 Domaine Lafond 2018 Roc-Épine, Côtes du Rhône, France $22.99 ..........................................................................................62 Duckhorn 2018 Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California $38.99.............................................................................29 Emilio Hidalgo Fino Sherry, Jerez, Spain $17.99........................................................................................................................22 Emilio Hidalgo Morenita Cream Sherry, Jerez, Spain $18.99 ....................................................................................................22 Emilio Hidalgo Pedro Ximénez Sherry, Jerez, Spain (500 ml) $26.99.........................................................................................22 Emilio Hidalgo Gobernador Oloroso Sherry, Jerez, Spain $35.99.............................................................................................22 Emilio Hidalgo Villapanes Oloroso Seco Sherry, Jerez, Spain $69.99 .........................................................................................22 Finca Valpiedra 2012 Cantos Rioja, Spain $26.99 .....................................................................................................................41 Finca Valpiedra 2012 Reserva Rioja, Spain $53.99 ....................................................................................................................41 Granbazán 2019 Albariño Rías Baixas, Spain $29.99................................................................................................................26 Heron Ridge 2015 O-Nine Shiraz Stellenbosch, South Africa $19.99 ........................................................................................25 Jaume Serra nv Cristalino Brut Cava Catalunya, Spain $60.99 ............................................................................................. Insert Ka Tahi 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand $18.99 .........................................................................................25 KH Schneider 2015 Felsenberg Riesling Spätlese Nahe, Germany $42.99..................................................................................14 La Cave de Valençay 2017 Patagon Rouge Loire Valley, France $18.99 .....................................................................................25 Le Ragnaie 2016 Troncone Rosso Tuscany, Italy $23.99............................................................................................................62 Les Domaines Auriol 2018 Catch & Release Sauvignon Languedoc-Roussillon, France $16.99 ................................................25 Mas d’en Gil 2014 Coma Alta Garnacha Blanca Priorat, Spain $47.99 .....................................................................................33 McManis 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Lodi, California $23.99 ....................................................................................................62 Pikes Vintners 2019 Viognier Clare Valley, Australia $24.99......................................................................................................62 Pinuaga 2016 Colección Castilla-La Mancha, Spain $21.99 ......................................................................................................55 Pinuaga 2019 Rosé Castilla-La Mancha, Spain $15.99 ........................................................................................................ 34, 55 Pinuaga 2018 Tinto Garnacha/Tempranillo Castilla-La Mancha, Spain $14.99 .............................................................. Insert, 55 Pinuaga 2019 Bianco Sauvignon Blanc Castilla-La Mancha, Spain $14.99 ................................................................................55 Pinuaga 2015 200 Cepas Tempranillo Castilla-La Mancha, Spain $31.99 .................................................................................55 Ployez-Jacquemart nv Brut Champagne, France $66.99.............................................................................................................14 Precision Wine Co. 2017 Windstorm Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon California, USA $19.99 ......................................................25 Reassi 2018 Terre D’Argilla Manzoni Bianco Veneto, Italy $22.99............................................................................................62 Red Electric 2016 Interurban Pinot Noir Oregon, USA $49.99..................................................................................................14 Santa Ema 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Maipo Valley, Chile $15.99 ..................................................................................................24 Santa Julia 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza Argentina $15.99 ...........................................................................................25 Spanish Tasting Case $99.99......................................................................................................................................................46 Telmo Rodriguez 2018 Gaba do Xil Godello Valdeorras, Spain $23.99.....................................................................................26 Tempus Two 2019 Silver Series Rosé, South Australia $12.99....................................................................................................25 Tempus Two 2017 Silver Series Shiraz, South Australia $12.99..................................................................................................29 Viña Zorzal 2016 Cuatro del Cuatro Graciano Navarra, Spain $33.99 .....................................................................................36 Viña Zorzal 2018 Garnacha Blanca Navarra, Spain $16.99.......................................................................................................24 Vinçonniere 2017 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Loire Valley, France $14.99...................................................................................24 Zarate 2018 Albariño Rías Baixas, Spain $26.99............................................................................................................ Insert, 33

Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as the availability of all products, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Jones & Company Wine Merchants

* CUSTOMER PICK *

This Cabernet holds a special place for me as it was the wine my wife and I served at our wedding. This classic California Cabernet is bursting with notes of blackberry, cassis, mocha, a hint of smoke, and creamy vanilla. It is my go-to Cabernet Sauvignon for backyard barbequed burgers or just to sip with friends. RICKI-LEE PODOLECKI

Get Pike’d for this wine! Restrained but full of energy, the notes of the Pikes Viognier showcase camomile, lemon, and ripe peach. The textures build, with an opulent mid-palate and full flavours of green apples and honeydew. Its Clare Valley high acidity keeps it structured. A great pairing with butternut squash soup, this is a fall favourite. ROB STANSEL

From a high-altitude site in Montalcino, this is 100% Sangiovese, a “Brunello junior,” in all but name: the government won’t acknowledge the vineyard as DOCG, as it is just above the 600-metre threshold. Wine law fail. It is fermented in concrete, with elevage in Slovenian oak. A savoury red with aromas of dried herbs, red currants, and cedar. Tangy and bright. Think pappardelle and beef ragu.

You might not be thinking about Greek wines, but you should be. Alpha Estates is a winery in the Amyndeon, Florina region of Greece. Their Axia is a 50/50 blend of Syrah and Xinomavro, showing blackberry and spice on the nose. The palate exudes characters of dark fruit and vanilla with a long finish. Pair with your yiayia’s cooking. ANTON SIKORSKY

Lately, I have been finding myself drinking more wine from the Côtes du Rhône. This is the most recent in a run of wonderful wines. A nose of cherry, blackberry, and stone leads into a well-balanced palate full of fresh red fruit, with hints of red licorice and pepper. This is the perfect wine to enjoy alongside a charcuterie board! SARALYN MEHTA

Manzoni Bianco is a unique grape created by crossing the vines of Riesling and Pinot Blanc. Full bodied with lovely acidity, this weighty white shows notes of spring flowers and tropical fruits balanced by a refreshing minerality and an appealing acidity. A perfect pairing with warm seafood dishes, hearty salads, and lighter meat dishes.

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