Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Jan 2018

Page 26

HAIR CARE

Get stronger hair, wash after wash

than untreated hair. It works by creating additional hydrogen and ionic bonds within the hair keratin

structure, by penetrating deep into the hair fibre, to the cortex, and restores

Using cost-effective technology, Ashland is bringing the benefits of bond multiplier technology to the hair care industry with FiberHance bm solution. This awardwinning functional ingredient is available locally from IMCD South Africa.

B

hair fibre strength back to levels of virgin hair. Figure 1 shows the results of a comparative cyclic fatigue tensile test on FiberHance bm solution versus a fully formulated shampoo. These results suggest a mere one percent of the ingredient is capable of outperforming

ond multiplier is the buzzword

bonds and linkages are damaged

a well-known commercial shampoo,

for products that claim to repair

or broken. The main causes of

which is formulated with a long series

broken hair bonds as a result of

damaged and broken hair are

of ingredients typically claiming to

harsh treatments like bleaching,

ageing, chemical treatments and

have a positive effect on repairing and

environmental aggressors.

protecting the hair fibre.

colouring and heat styling. Olaplex, launched in the US in

FiberHance bm solution not only

According to Ashland, the

December 2014 as a professional hair

typical anti-breakage

care treatment to ‘end bad hair days’,

solutions currently on

continues to enjoy great acclaim with

the market only work

celebrities even swearing by it. Since then,

on the surface of

raw materials suppliers have developed

the hair by coating

new and innovative products for home

or strengthening it

use, some positioned as prevention pre-

through the use of

treatments and others to repair damage.

proteins. However,

In 2017, Ashland launched FiberHance

the long term and

bm solution – a small molecule in which

most effective solution

the chemical structure and dimension

is to repair and restore

have been specifically designed to

the internal structure.

DID YOU KNOW?

improves the strengthening performance of a shampoo but can also

simplify a formulation Ashland’s FiberHance bm solution received the Gold award in the category through the use Best New Functional Ingredient at inof one ingredient cosmetics Global in London, in 2017. instead of using FiberHance bm impressed judges with many to achieve its use of unique and sustainable the desired results. In ingredients that work simultaneously addition, this material to create and strengthen hair fibres without compromising can be added at any colour. time during the mixing process, though it’s best if

optimise multi-bond interactions within

added at the end before pH and

hair’s keratin cortex. The company’s payoff

Strengthened from within

line for this technology says it all: ‘Who

FiberHance bm solution (INCI:

viscosity adjustments are made. The

helps strengthen hair from the inside out?

Hydroxypropyl Gluconamide (and)

pH should be adjusted from four to five

We do!’

Hydroxypropyl Ammonium Gluconate)

for optimum performance. •

Weak hair breaks easily, is frizzy and

is an innovative, unique and patented

difficult to manage because the inner

ingredient that strengthens the internal

structure has been compromised, so

hair structure up to three times more

Figure 1: FiberHance bm solution test shampoo (#Z351-18A) versus a commercial product

Ashland – www.ashland.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com/ worldwide/south-africa

premium strengthening shampoo prototype (#Z351-18A). + 1% as is fiberHance™ bm solution showing best results in this comparative test

Control 3x Bleached

26

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

commercial serum deep repair shampoo with: panthenol cationic hydrolyzed protein hydrolyzed protein mix of seed oils


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