A MOTIVATE PUBLICATION
MARCH 2022
UAE DHS25 OMAN RO2.70 BAHRAIN BD2.60 KUWAIT KD2.10 SAUDI ARABIA SR25
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THE SUSTAINABILITY ISSUE
Made For Change
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Obaid Humaid Al Tayer MANAGING PARTNER AND GROUP EDITOR Ian Fairservice EDITOR/ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Amy Sessions amy.sessions@motivate.ae SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Olga Petroff DIGITAL EDITOR Olivia Morris JUNIOR DIGITAL STYLE EDITOR Sarah Joseph GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION Sunil Kumar ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER Binu Purandaran PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR Venita Pinto CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER Anthony Milne GROUP DIRECTOR Andrew Wingrove DIGITAL SALES DIRECTOR Sabir Khodabux GROUP SALES MANAGERS Bindu Gupta bindu@motivate.ae Chaitali Khimji chaitali.khimji@motivate.ae GROUP MARKETING MANAGER Joelle Albeaino WEB DEVELOPER Firoz Kaladi
HEAD OFFICE Media One Tower, Dubai Media City, PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE, Tel: (+971) 4 4273000, Fax: (+971) 4 4282261, E-mail: motivate@motivate.ae DUBAI MEDIA CITY SD 2-94, 2nd Floor, Building 2, Dubai, UAE Tel: (+971) 4 390 3550 Fax: (+971) 4 390 4845 ABU DHABI PO Box 43072, UAE, Tel: (+971) 2 6772005, Fax: (+971) 2 6770124, E-mail: motivate-adh@motivate.ae LONDON Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ER, UK, E-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae
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Editor’s Letter 74, Nancy Hood, Chief Marketing Officer of 1stDibs Welcome to The Sustainability Issue. in Extraordinary Design and FARFETCH’s Global This issue is designed to focus on those making Director of Sustainable Business in A Thoughtful changes and working towards building a better future Approach to Fashion on page 72. We also detail the for the planet. Whether you opt for the buy less, buy smart, sustainable way to buy into luxury on page 80 better model or seek out brands which are ensuring in The Rise of Secondhand Luxury. the production process is optimized Beauty wise, we take stock and for less impact on the environment, focus on how to sustain equilibrium we are all capable of implementing SMALL CHANGES with the best mood balancing tools small changes in our lives for the COMPOUND in Balance on page 98 and deliver a greater good, however minimal. OVER TIME. BE beginners guide to looking beyond Our covers are two of the most THE CHANGE YOU the labels in Sustainable Beauty on striking to date and for which we had page 100. Real Rocks on page 120 the pleasure of shooting for the first WANT TO SEE. allows us to discover how to invest time in Saudi Arabia with our partner in lifetime furniture pieces through NEOM. The scale and beauty of the the power of bespoke design and we compile an nature within NEOM is aligned with their impressive exceptional edit of the best luxury resorts doing their vision which will unfold over the next few years. bit to help the planet in The Wanderlust on page 126. We shot The New World on page 22 at sunrise, at a Small changes compound over time. Be the change previously unseen location thanks to the outstanding you want to see. S, E, S and their teams. With special thanks to a wonderful team who We look at the future of sustainable fashion with arranged an off-road PCR test for the team on the exclusive interviews with Stella McCartney in A ground in KSA. The ultimate bespoke experience and Trailblazer in Sustainability on page 56, Caroline Rush one we will remember for a lifetime! CBE, CEO of the British Fashion Council on page
Amy Sessions EDITOR / ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
T H E H E R O B U YS
Bombe studded suede sandals Dhs3,286 Alaïa
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Rosie bandeau bikini Dhs705 HUNZA G available at NET-A-PORTER
1993 pre-owned Santos 29mm Dhs15,899 Cartier available at FARFETCH
Loulou Puffer medium quilted bag Dhs11,500 Saint Laurent
Oriel 95 Boots Dhs3,850 Jimmy Choo available at OUNASS
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Available at all CERRUTI 1881 Islands and leading retailers across UAE
CONTENTS MARCH 2022
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THE MONITOR
Monitor News p.18 Social Listings p.20 The New World – Cover Shoot with NEOM p.22
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Low Impact – William Lundgren, Founder of BITE Studios on adapting a sustainable approach to fashion p.60 A Trailblazer in Sustainability – Exclusive interview with Stella McCartney p.56
Hot New Buys p.96
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Sustainable Support – NET-A-PORTER launches the first annual Vanguard Education Fund p.38 The Edit – Buy less, buy better p.44 Sustainable Style – Bulgarian fashion brand Bogdar is the brainchild of husband-and-wife duo Pavel & Teodora Lozanova p.66
Caroline Rush CBE, CEO of British Fashion Council p.74 Denim Dream – Exclusive interview with the founder of E.L.V. Denim, Anna Foster p.76 The Rise of Secondhand Luxury – We look at the smart, sustainable way to buy into luxury p.80
96 BEAUTY
Balance – The best mood balancing tools to sustain equilibrium p.98 Sustainable Beauty – A Beginner’s Guide p.100
Maximizing Minimalism – Interview with Dubaibased content creator Saira Farhat p.82
Sustaining Your Skin – An Expert Guide p.102
Eco Soles – Interview with the founders of SAYE p.84
Beauty Shelf – Romana Nasim, Founder of The Edit p.108
A Vibrant Celebration – H&M celebrates Ramadan and Eid p.86
AM to PM Beauty – E.L.V. Denim’s Anna Foster p.110
Mental Health, Mental Wealth – Interview with Dr Sarah Rasmi p.106
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CONTENTS MARCH 2022
Contemporary Timelessness – The new Ferrari Roma p.46
A Thoughtful Approach to Fashion – Exclusive interview with FARFETCH’s Global Director of Sustainable Business p.72
112 118 LIFESTYLE
The Cover
A Second Life – Perfect, preloved new additions p.118 FEATURES
Extraordinary Design – Interview with Nancy Hood, Chief Marketing Officer of 1stDibs p.112
Real Rocks – Maison Roca on design and driving a business forward in the interior space p.120
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Doing Our Bit – Incredible women tell us how they’re implementing sustainability on a micro and macro level p.116
Perpetual Fire – Interview with restauranteur Chef Akmal Anuar p.124 The Wanderlust – An exceptional edit of the best luxury resorts doing their bit to help the planet p.126 New Heights – Interview with Steven Bishop, Director of Operations at RAK Leisure p.130
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THE ROMAN COUNTESS DONATELLA PECCI-BLUNT
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he Countess Donatella Pecci-Blunt needs no introduction. She is very well-known in the highest circles of Royalty, Government, Business, Fashion and Arts, worldwide. Born and raised in an international environment, she learned to love art and music from an early age; thanks to her father who was a very good violinist. Her studies took her around the world and as a result of these experiences, she now speaks five languages fluently. She is a celebrity, actress, author, TV personality, journalist, linguist, and business executive. With her first husband, Giorgio Zegna, she was dealing in fashion, fabrics and couture until she produced her first legendary perfume, “Diable Au Corps.” Later, living in Rome, Italy, she became “the queen of Roman intellectual salons” and hosted numerous parties at her Palazzo
for famous people like Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren, Raffaella Carrà, Sean Connery, Michael Douglas, to name a few. She also invited artists of the caliber of Andy Warhol, politicians, ministers, and head of states. Her love and mutual esteem for politics, led to her receiving various offers to become a minister, European Deputy and Mayor of Rome; offers she always chose to decline in her own classy way. Over the years, she has also been popular in many TV programs and has written and published three books. Thus, describing the Countess PecciBlunt as extraordinary, would be an understatement. Her charm, elegance, charisma and captivating nature makes her uniquely elegant and “genuine.” A few years ago, the countess decided to close her Pecci-Blunt Palace in the heart of Rome and share her time between Monte Carlo, Miami and the beautiful Dubai.
“I'm proud to introduce my new sensual fragrance” Countess Donatella Pecci-Blunt
THE ROYAL LIFESTYLE www.theroyallifestyle.com DUBAI
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COMPILED BY SARAH JOSEPH
Fashion Forward
THE HERO BUYS
The latest launches, new openings and hero buys P E R P E T U A L LY
COOL
Celine’s SS22 collection combines eternally slick tailoring with streetwear staples. Micro Gabby 18-karat Recycled Gold Hoop Earrings Dhs1,673 Octavia Elizabeth
Brooke Leather Blazer Dhs1,416 Deadwood
Kitten Sandal 50 in Karung Dhs3,400 Celine
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Black Obsidian Bottle Dhs399 Glacce
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Apartmento POA Ilarós available at COMPTOIR 102
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Scent Body Mist Dhs299 Norma Kamali
Croissant Shoulder Bag in Canvas Dhs7,885 Fendi Vintage available on OUNASS
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Phoenix Leather Straight-Leg Pants Dhs1,277 Deadwood
THE MONITOR – NEWS
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Social Listings
An edit of sustainability conscious accounts to #follow C O M P I L E D BY: S A R A H J O S E P H
@discoverneom
@theeditdubai
@bitestudios
Laser focused on sustainability and powered by renewable energy.
This concept store is home to perpetually classic pieces.
This conscious label designs sustainable pieces tailored to perfection.
@nakdfashion
@1stdibs
@elvdenim
@bogdar_official
Wear now and love longer.
The go-to marketplace for curated classics and rare finds.
A zero-waste upcycled denim brand with bespoke made-toorder pieces.
Conscious and cool – a partywear brand you need to know.
@calm
@sayebrand
@vestiaireco
@dubaiculture
Stress less, sleep more and live a happier life with this incredible app.
Bio-based high-quality sneakers designed with recycled materials.
The home for pre-loved luxury.
Supporting Dubai’s cultural heritage through ongoing sustainable development.
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@marineserre_ official
IMAGES: SUPPLIED
The chicest sustainable fibres you’ll find.
THE MONITOR
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Available at all CERRUTI 1881 Islands and leading retailers across UAE
the NeW WoRLD WO R D S & C R E AT I V E D I R E CT I O N : AMY SESSIONS
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Made to change, NEOM is carving out an optimized, sustainable design for life P H OTO G R A P H Y: G R EG A DA M S K I
COVER STORY
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COVER STORY
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COVER STORY
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COVER STORY
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PRODUCTION: OLIVIA MORRIS; FASHION ASSISTANT: SARAH JOSEPH; VIDEOGRAPHER: MARK MATHEW; HAIR & MAKEUP: KATERINA BENNAN; MODEL: MELODY PARAT. ALL FASHION AVAILABLE AT NET-A-PORTER’S NET SUSTAIN PROGRAMME AND STELLA MCCARTNEY. SHOT ON LOCATION WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO NEOM.
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COVER STORY
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WORDS; AMY SESSIONS
Sustainable
NET-A-PORTER launches the first annual
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Support
Vanguard Education Fund and announces a mentorship panel of industry figures
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EVA CHEN DIRECTOR OF FASHION PARTNERSHIPS AT INSTAGRAM “I’ve always believed strongly in mentorship and the concept of paying it forward. I hope to help designers connect with one another – and with other experts in the field – to build out their businesses and their platforms. Designers need community, whether they’re insiders from the industry who will show up and support, or a digital community who will shop, cheer them on and amplify their talents.”
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s part of its globally renowned talent incubator programme, NETA-PORTER has launched The Vanguard Education Fund, a new mentorship scheme in partnership with the British Fashion Council (BFC) designed to help final-year BA students as they embark on their professional careers in
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the industry. NET-A-PORTER reveals the influential mentors taking part in the fund: designers Cate Holstein, founder of Khaite; Conner Ives and Christopher John Rogers; renowned stylist Julia Sarr-Jamois; editorial and tech expert Eva Chen; business mogul, musician, and actor Jessica Jung; NET-APORTER’s content director Alice Casely-
Hayford, and senior market editor Libby Page. The Vanguard Education Fund sees NET-A-PORTER engage with the BFC’s network of UK-based universities alongside NET-A-PORTER’s network of international universities, to encourage more diverse talent and to help students as they embark on their professional journeys.
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CATE HOLSTEIN FASHION DESIGNER, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF KHAITE “Fashion is always about what’s next, [so] nurturing upcoming talent ensures the sanctity of this new spirit. There are so many facets to this business that, as a designer and founder, one needs to be mindful of. There’s a myriad of factors that play into the ambition to scale a fashion company. Without efficient guidance, the rollercoaster of ups and downs is sure to be extreme.”
LIBBY PAGE, SENIOR MARKET EDITOR, NET-A-PORTER “At NET-A-PORTER we recognise our responsibility in the industry, to nurture young, creative individuals and we are laser-focused on launching the very best emerging designers. The Vanguard Education Fund will ensure we discover this talent early on and give
more students the opportunity to establish themselves within the fashion industry by providing financial and strategic support at the early stages of their careers.” CAROLINE RUSH, CHIEF EXECUTIVE, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL “Breaking into the fashion industry is often
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financially challenging and can be overwhelming. Projects like the Vanguard Education Fund are so important as they pair much-needed bursary funding with essential industry advice. We are delighted to provide students with such a fantastic opportunity and group of mentors to help them navigate the ever-changing fashion landscape.”
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JESSICA JUNG MUSICIAN, ACTOR AND BUSINESSWOMAN “I’m excited to be part of an initiative that will help a new generation of talent to grow and become future innovators. It’s important for fashion to constantly evolve – I believe you can never have enough mentorship and guidance from peers and industry leaders who have traveled the same path.”
CONNER IVES, FASHION DESIGNER, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF HIS NAMESAKE LABEL “Much of my education was shaped by mentors generous enough to take the time to help me become the designer I am today. So I feel like it’s now my turn to pass on the torch. I am always thrilled to work with students and emerging talent, especially
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having been there myself not too long ago; I know what kids are capable of. With the world being so upside down right now, this support feels essential.” CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS, FASHION DESIGNER, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF HIS NAMESAKE LABEL “The industry is full of talented, creative minds that
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JULIA SARR-JAMOIS FASHION DIRECTOR AT BRITISH VOGUE “Fledgling designers need a lot of help financially – there are a lot of up-front costs – but I also think just having someone to talk to, feed off and have an open dialogue with is really important; having someone believe in you is invaluable. I know how hard it can be to break into the fashion industry and make a mark, which is why working with and supporting new talent has always been a focus for me.”
deserve the space to explore their voices. There are so many amazing designers from non-privileged backgrounds or without family funding that have limitless vision, and it would behove the industry to support them to keep them moving forward. I understand both the exciting and challenging parts of being a young designer in this industry; I’d like to advocate for what these folks might need in terms of support for their businesses.”
ALICE CASELY-HAYFORD, CONTENT DIRECTOR AT NET-A-PORTER “Over the past few years, the fashion industry has been shaken up by the pandemic, urgent demands for greater diversity and a bigger commitment to sustainability. Now is the time for us to support, nurture and mentor the next generation of design talent, who will continue to drive things forward and innovate.”
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Buy less, buy better
THE EDIT 44 emirateswoman.com
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01. Sade quilted leather clutch Dhs7,100 Saint Laurent; 02. Leather ankle boots Dhs1,434 Porter & Paire exclusively available at NET-A-PORTER; 03. Double-breasted silk-trimmed wool blazer Dhs5,537 Blazé Milano; 04. 90s small leather tote Dhs4,035 The Row; 05. Subdimension D-frame tortoiseshell acetate sunglasses Dhs180 Le Specs; 06. Symmetry Pochette leather tote Dhs4,617 Savette; 07. T-shirt Dhs472 Joseph; 08. Cotton-gabardine straight-leg pants Dhs2,266 Alaïa; 09. Sibem wool and cashmere-blend sweater Dhs3,350 The Row; 10. Stretch-leather leggings Dhs4,249 Joseph; 11. Air Force 1 suede-trimmed leather sneakers Dhs510 Nike; 12. Asymmetric woven blazer Dhs1,555 Low Classic available at NET-A-PORTER
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TIMELESSNESS C R E AT I V E D I R E CT I O N : A M Y S E S S I O N S
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THE NEW FERRARI ROMA I S T H E L AT E ST C O U P É FROM MARANELLO, F E AT U R I N G T I M E L E S S , REFINED DESIGN COMBINED WITH THE POWER AND AGILITY TO GUARANTEE A UNIQUE DRIVING EXPERIENCE
P H OTO G R A P H Y: G R EG A DA M S K I
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MODEL: PAULINA WISINSKA AT MMG MODELS; MAKEUP & HAIR: ANIA PONIATOWSKA AT MMG ARTISTS; PRODUCTION: OLIVIA MORRIS; FASHION ASSISTANT: SARAH JOSEPH; VIDEOGRAPHER: JOACHIM GUAY; ALL FASHION AVAILABLE AT OUNASS
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A TRAILBLAZER IN SUSTAINABILITY WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
STELLA MCCARTNEY WAS ONCE RIDICULED BY THE FASHION INDUSTRY FOR A LASER FOCUS ON ALL THINGS “ECO”. YET, FOR OVER TWO DECADES NOW SHE HAS BEEN A PIONEER IN PROMOTING SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES, SOMETHING THAT MUCH OF THE INDUSTRY IS ONLY NOW IMPLEMENTING. WE SPEAK EXCLUSIVELY TO MCCARTNEY ON SPEARHEADING SUSTAINABILITY, THE THINGS THAT MUST CHANGE IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY, AND WHAT INSPIRED HER LATEST COLLECTION 56 emirateswoman.com
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Last year marked 20 years of your eponymous brand. How have things evolved since you launched in 2001? When I started on this journey, I was the one being ridiculed for being an ‘eco weirdo’, being told that I wouldn’t have a successful brand if I didn’t use leather or fur, but fast forward 20 years and we now have the black and white data to back up the fact that the fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world. People are finally starting to understand that we are now in danger of ruining our planet if we don’t consider how we treat the land or how we farm, how we consume… and the conversation is finally here. To be truly modern, I believe that you must initiate and embrace change which is why I have been campaigning recently for legislation to be set for the fashion industry and incentives to be given out to brands who comply, because right now the industry is not regulated which is why brands are getting away with murder. Collectively, it’s crucial that we, as an industry, commit now to taking measurable action towards mitigating our impact for a more sustainable, ethical and mindful future. You really spearheaded the sustainable fashion movement. As being one of the first to do so, while building your empire, how did you remain confident in your vision for your brand? Working in this space can feel like an uphill struggle at times, especially in the early days when the conversation wasn’t there, you had to really dig deep to find suppliers that were
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happy to work in a new way because it just wasn’t on people’s agenda back then…. but I persevered because I had my beliefs and I had a vision, and I still work with that same mentality to this day. It’s important that I surround myself with an amazing team who all have the same vision and who work so hard to keep our brand at the forefront of being environmental leaders in fashion. I couldn’t do it without them! Being invited to represent the fashion industry at COP26 and G7 with HRH The Prince of Wales was an incredible honour and was a real sort of reflection moment for me that made me realise that at last the fashion industry is finally being taken seriously and secondly that all the hard work I’ve put in over the past 20 plus years hasn’t been for nothing. We leveraged the global platform of COP26 to showcase the limitless possibilities of material innovation – using our current achievements to hopefully inspire future actions, from private investment to government incentives for naturepositive solutions. We created an exhibit that we titled the Future of Fashion which was designed to bring our amazing material innovations to life – literally! At the centre of the installation was a live fungi display, continuing the narrative from our Summer 2022 collection. Surrounding the fungi, and alongside hard-hitting facts about the current state of the industry, we had key pieces that exemplified our commitment to innova-
tion, including the first-ever bags and garments made from Bolt Threads’ Mylo™️mycelium leather (hence the live fungi display!) as well as vegan, plant-based and regenerated materials crafted from waste. In terms of the fashion industry as a whole, what is it that needs to change? I think you only need to look at the facts to realise that leather production within the fashion industry is one of the most urgent issues. We need to dispel the myth that leather is a by-product of the meat industry – it accounts for up to 20 per cent of the commercial value of a cow. Not only is it completely cruel, animal agriculture on a whole accounts for up to 18 per cent of global greenhouse gases vs. global transportation, which accounts for up to 13 per cent of global greenhouse gases. Leather can have up to 20 times the environmental impact as recycled synthetic alternatives… for example, since the introduction of our vegetarian Falabella handbag in 2009 we worked out we have saved the lives of 300,000 to 400,000 cows. That’s a colossal amount! Need I say more? As an industry, we need to come together to support the companies that are working to create vegan alternative innovations, like we do at Stella McCartney with Bolt Threads who we have been working with for over 6 years now as well as the other innovation companies we work with. The more brands that invest and support these companies, the more accessible they will become, so this really is the only way we are going to start see-
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ing these technologies become more widespread and in turn see positive change. However, there must be some things the industry is doing right. In your opinion, what are these? Yes, slowly but surely we are moving in the right direction. For example, in the last few years, there has been a considerable increase in material developments and innovations that are becoming more readily available, and in turn becoming slightly cheaper to purchase because the demand is now there. These include recycled materials such as polyester, nylon, regenerated cashmere and more which we like to use throughout our collections as it reduces our impact. To show how far we’ve come, you can look at sequins as an example. I love working with sequins and back in the day, we just couldn’t use sequins because they are made with PVC which we don’t use as a brand due to the high impact it has on the environment; there were two colours to choose from but now we have a whole swatch book to choose from which shows that even with something so tiny like a sequin, someone is thinking about it which shows how far we have progressed. Working with new technologies and innovations is what drives me. As a brand, we are putting a lot of focus on regenerative agriculture (or farming) because we believe this is the future of the fashion industry, and I can see there’s a growing interest in this space which is exciting. Regenerative farming is essentially a conservation and rehabilitation approach to farming, focusing
on topsoil regeneration and aims to increase biodiversity and has been directly linked to helping reverse climate change. What’s interesting is that as a fashion designer, we are very much farmers ourselves, we are working directly with the farmers because a huge majority of our fabrics are sourced from crops. This has really heightened for us here at Stella in recent years because we’ve been directly investing in a regenerative cotton farm in Turkey, with our partners Soktas, working with them on their regenerative cotton pilot programme. LVMH has also recently confirmed investment in the same farm, which gives me great hope because of the power that LVMH has over the industry. What inspired your latest collection? I am so proud of my latest collection – Summer 2022 which launches this month which is based around the transformative and transcendental qualities of mushrooms and mycelium. I watched the Fantastic Fungi documentary during the research phase and I was totally blown away by the power these little fungi can have, not only in nature and the many health benefits they provide, but the opportunities they present for the fashion industry when it comes to the developments in mycelium leather. As well as designing a gorgeous mushroom print that features on many of the looks, we were the first brand to put a mycelium handbag down the runway, which we plan to commercialise soon with our partners at Bolt Threads. I truly believe
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mycelium leather will replace traditional animal leather in the future. For the Summer show, I was lucky enough to have legend mycologist Paul Stamets narrate the opening of the show, and we worked with musical artist MycoLyco who specialises in creating music from the sound of mushrooms growing. This was just the beginning as we have a lot of exciting ideas for the launch of the campaign this month, so watch this space! Who have been your key mentors throughout your career? I’ve been lucky enough to have had some incredible mentors through my career, right from when I was starting out in college, through to my internships when I was testing out different areas of the fashion industry, to today where I am still learning and often seek advice from my peers within the industry. One piece of advice that has always stuck with me however comes from my very chic grandfather on my mother’s side who always told me that “staying power is the most important thing”. I have carried that all through my life. But you also have to be responsible in every way, that’s how you will stand out. This is The Sustainability Issue – what does this mean to you? The media have a great responsibility and platform to educate consumers and change the narrative so it always brings me joy when I see that magazines are dedicating whole issues to sustainability. My hope is that in a few years we won’t need dedicated issues because the whole issue will be championing responsible practice.
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WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH W I L L I A M L U N D G R E N, FOUNDER OF BITE STUDIOS ON ADOPTING A S U STA I N A B L E APPROACH TO FASHION
“ T H E C L I M AT E C R I S I S H A S L U C K I LY G OT T E N A L A R G E R P O L I T I C A L S PA C E L AT E LY A N D
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H A S T H E R E B Y C O N T R I B U T E D T O M U C H M O R E P O S I T I V E C H A N G E S I N T H E I N D U S T R Y. ”
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What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? Ever since I became a father in October, the first 30 minutes of my day and more are dedicated to my daughter. Proceeding with my day, I then scan and oversee the emails that are coming and continue to do that throughout the day as working globally means that it’s office hours in some part of the world. What inspired you to launch BITE Studios? When it comes to addressing any environmental issues, very few brands considered this without compromising on style. A lot of brands are constantly talking about change in the fashion industry, while only a few are acting upon this. As a desire to create a luxury brand that embodies ethical values, BITE Studios was started to add that much-needed spark to the industry. Who is your key target audience, and do you have clients who buy season after season? We have a very strong core customer base, however, it’s amazing to see our community grow season after season. Many of our key clientele are extremely loyal to the brand and this inspires us to constantly make them feel confident and ensure a timeless wardrobe worth investing in, is delivered to them year after year. The key personality traits of our target audience include confident, conscious and independent women who prioritize high-quality pieces with impeccable craftsmanship. Do you see any buying patterns globally? As we finally start to see an end to the pandemic tunnel, we can clearly see everyone’s desire to dress up again. More daring designs, pop of colours and individual items are something we really believe in for the coming seasons. If people used the lockdown to nail their basic wardrobe, now is the time to spruce it up. We always offer that solid base of signature staples but also the garments that add the personality. Oversized trench coats, detailed shirts and exciting material mixes are some of the examples. What drives your inspiration? Art is an eternal source of inspiration and I try to visit as many exhibitions, galleries and museums as possible. Restaurants that offer a set of well-composed dishes also act as a key source of inspiration. I’m constantly observing innovators and other entrepreneurs as it’s a great way to converse with someone you admire. The brand is focused on using eco-friendly, sustainable materials. Was this the goal from the outset? Yes, we’ve always focused on protecting the environment and steering away from conventional oil-based synthetics use. It has always been an inspiring journey for us to be part of a larger change and constantly build demand towards elegant and organic materials.
Do you think the industry now demands brands to be more sustainable than before and is this being driven by the consumer? I sure think the focus on sustainability has intensified over the last few years. This is a result of both consumer demands and governmental factors. The climate crisis has luckily received a larger political space lately and has thereby contributed to much more positive changes in the industry. This is The Sustainability Issue – how are you personally and professionally contributing to a more sustainable way of living? Professionally and personally, we try in as many ways possible to do what we can to do our part in a much larger change. Whether the work done at BITE or in our own personal life, we ensure sustainable fashion continues to be at the helm of it all, ensuring that it’s something that’s always spoken about.
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Bulgarian fashion brand Bogdar is the brainchild of husband and wife duo Pavel & Teodora Lozanova. With a mission to be known first and foremost as the go-to sustainable partywear brand, Teodora discusses the fashion label’s six-year journey and how they are putting Bogdar on the map
What inspired you to go into the world of fashion? The idea of launching Bogdar came from my husband with whom I run the brand together. His family has been in the fashion industry for generations and it only made sense for us to go the same way. He grew up running around the sewing machines and for him it was quite natural to continue his professional development in that field. Prior to Bogdar, I had always been in the corporate world up until we decided to create something that was ours. Can you talk us through your career prior to launching Bogdar? Before launching Bogdar I was always in beauty. I worked in marketing for Estée Lauder Companies in Dubai, where I was part of the team responsible for Mac Cosmetics’ marketing strategies throughout the Middle East. How did Bogdar come to fruition – what was the inspiration for the brand? Both my husband and I are very entrepreneurial. Considering his family’s background and our strong passion for a sustainable life, we decided to combine the two and create Bogdar. With the launch of the brand, we moved back to our native Bulgaria – a country with a rich history in garment manufacturing. All pieces that carry the Bogdar label are produced in our family-owned facility in Vidin, Bulgaria by a dedicated team of 16 members. Can you talk us through the concept? We are currently working on repositioning the brand as “the sustainable party brand”. We identified that there is a gap in the market for sustainable partywear. Currently, there are many sustainable brands and many partywear ones, but none that offer both. In your opinion, how does a brand become truly sustainable? In reality, there is no brand out there that is truly 100 per cent sustainable. There is so much more to be done than just using organic fabrics. It is a whole
mindset that runs through each and every process of your business. Starting from the design process, one should be thinking about creating pieces that do not go out of fashion after one season. Moving to sourcing – one should choose durable materials from socially responsible fabric suppliers that are certified for clean production and do not harm the environment. Going to production – transparency and the actual people who are involved in the production is something that should be given more light. Finally, there is logistics and packaging. I cannot claim that we are 100 per cent sustainable, and it is my belief that no one currently is, but we do our best to create pieces and run a business that leaves the smallest footprint possible, constantly improving our brand. How have things evolved since you launched Bogdar? When we launched Bogdar in 2016 sustainability was not a hot topic yet. I am glad that something that has been so essential for the brand since day one has now evolved into an unprecedented global trend. How would you describe the Bogdar woman? The Bogdar woman is self-aware and confident in a very effortless way. Partying is her second nature and getting ready for
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a night out is what she lives for. She likes the spotlight and we make clothes that turn heads around. She is committed to finding pieces that are ethical but at the same time show her true style. She is mindful about waste and how garments are made. In terms of the fashion industry as a whole, what is a must that needs to change? First and foremost, the idea that we constantly need new pieces in our wardrobe and therefore we are ready to compromise quality over quantity. We need to educate the consumer that having less but stand-out pieces that would last season after season is actually more. However, there must be some things the industry is doing right. In your opinion, what are these? More and more brands are now trying to be sustainable. It is not an overnight change, but a slow process that requires a lot of resources and time. However, every step in the right direction is great and we should be happy with any progress. In business, what is a philosophy you live by? Realizing that there are many different paths to success. Once you accept this and get over your fear of failure, you will feel empowered to move forward and get things done in the best way that you can. What are some of the key lessons you have learned throughout your career? Persistence is key, especially when you are starting something from scratch. Just don’t ever stop until you achieve what you are after. Be very agile and always trust your gut. Do you have any mentors who have helped guide you during your career? I am very lucky that both my husband and I come from families with a strong business background who have always guided us and we have been able to learn from their knowledge and experiences. What have been the hurdles you’ve had to overcome throughout your career? When you kick off your own business, you start out by doing everything by yourself. However, once the business has grown, one has to learn to let go of things and delegate to other team members. Accepting the fact that I can’t do everything by myself and that others can in fact do better in certain areas has proven very difficult for me. Meanwhile, what have been the key milestones? It is very rewarding when you see your work being recognized on a global level especially when you come from a place like Bulgaria that is not really on the fashion map. This is The Sustainability Issue – what does this mean to you? For me, sustainability in fashion goes beyond materials, traceability or general impact on the environment. It is a lot about transparency and people. About the actual individual who has produced with their own hands that top that you really like, and about the conditions they work in.
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or general impact on the environment.”
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FARFETCH’s Second Life programme is driving the pre-loved market to a new level. We spoke to Tom Berry, Global Director Sustainable Business at FARFETCH to find out how
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IMAGE: JASON JEAN; COURTESY OF FARFETCH
A Thoughtful Approach to Fashion
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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
What is at the core of FARFETCH’s focus on sustainability as a business? FARFETCH is the platform for the luxury industry and as a platform we are inherently an enabler of others. For sustainability, we are focused on being a platform for good – enabling everyone we work with to think, act and choose positively. That’s why we call our strategy Positively FARFETCH. This breaks down to four key focus areas. Firstly, enabling ‘cleaner’, lower carbon, lower environmental impact operations for us and our partners. Secondly, enabling ‘conscious’ choices by championing products and brands that are independently recognised or certified as being better environmentally, socially, or from an animal welfare perspective. Thirdly, becoming a more ‘circular’, low waste business by better matching supply and demand and growing business lines that help extend the life of clothes. And finally, becoming an ‘inclusive’ leader, championing diversity and inclusion both within our workplace and in the fashion industry as a whole. Can you tell us more about FARFETCH’s Second Life programme and how this originated? Our 2020 Conscious Luxury Trends Report showed that more than half of our customers had bought or sold pre-owned in the last year. FARFETCH has been selling pre-owned fashion since 2010 but in 2019, we launched FARFETCH Second Life which is a service that enables our customers to re-sell items in their wardrobes that they no longer use or want. The service is live in over 30 countries across Europe, the Middle East and in the USA. The service is currently focused on hand-bags which is a key category for resale, but we plan to expand the service to other categories in the future. You also carry vintage and pre-loved pieces from your global marketplace partners. Is this something you’ve seen growth in globally in terms of ROI and of client interest? Industry estimates suggest the pre-owned category is growing three times faster than the primary market and we are seeing significant growth of our pre-owned category on FARFETCH. For us, pre-owned bags dominate, accounting for 63% of sales in 2020, but increasingly jewellery and watches provide a place for our consumers to invest. With COVID 19, we saw an increased demand for investment pieces that potentially hold or increase their value. How important is educating customers to drive sales for pre-loved items and do some
Life (US & Europe, and Middle East) and donations programme FARFETCH Donate (UK and US), or extend the life of their favourite pieces with their FARFETCH Fix repair service. In 2021 we published FARFETCH’s first annual Conscious Luxury Trends Report, to help the industry understand and anticipate key trends, and updated the Fashion Footprint tool to help consumers make better buying decisions with more information on the environmental impacts of their choices. In 2020, we launched our Climate Conscious Delivery promise, where we have committed to offset the carbon impact of all of our delivery and returns of products ordered through the marketplace and from Browns. All of these efforts are in line with the company’s ambitious 2030 Sustainability Goals that we set out at the end of 2020. What has been the largest challenge to date since you joined and how did you overcome it? The biggest challenge of any sustainability programme is to establish and then maintain focus on the critical issues that the company can and should make progress on. Sustainability is a huge topic with many issues and agendas associated with it ranging from environmental impact to social justice and company governance. With Positively FARFETCH we laid out four key pillars of work and with our 2030 goals, we have outlined an ambitious set of goals, each with a clear measurable performance indicator. Maintaining focus and tracking our progress, both internally and externally (through our ESG report), is the key way we have moved forward. Last year was a time that saw brands change strategy. Have you had to pivot as a business? When our customers shop on FARFETCH, the items arrive from one of 1400+ boutiques or luxury retailers and brands, many altogether representing over 3000 designers – mostly small and unique creators of fashion. clients have a larger appetite for these pieces More and more, customers are expectthan others? Because of the FARFETCH ing their shopping experiences to be really pre-owned curation – high end, hard to find connected, whether they are shopping online pieces, with a focus on categories like handbags, jewellery and watches – our pre-owned and/or in-store – this is where our Luxury customers tend to be higher tier customers New Retail strategy comes in. We’re reimagining the luxury retail expeand the average order value is higher than our mainstream marketplace. Giving customers rience through the use of technology to create more information on pre-owned products seamless, connected customer journeys that is key. Being able to address what year the blend the best of online and physical shopping. product is from, what condition it is in and We have a vision for the evolution of luxhow we assure authenticity etc. are all imporury retail: to drive the transformation of the tant aspects to help build trust and loyalty. entire industry by creating a truly personal and personalised shopping experience that Can you tell us more about the key changes doesn’t separate the online and offline but you’ve implemented to date in terms of susbrings the two harmoniously together to containability? We launched our Positively FARFETCH strategy back in 2019 and have since nect with the customer – wherever they are. developed a whole range of initiatives under This is The Sustainability Issue – how are you that banner. FARFETCH now champions personally as well as professionally working on the most relevant and expansive curation of optimizing this? Like my approach with busiluxury products across womenswear, mensness, I try to focus on a few big things that I think will make a difference. A few examples wear and kidswear that are making industryof this are changing the kind of energy we use leading efforts to minimize fashion’s impact to run our house, trying to use lower carbon on people, animals and the planet, aligned forms of transport when possible, more cywith our public and independently backed Conscious Criteria. This includes collections cling and walking is key and looking out for of conscious fashion for men, women and independent certifications on the material kids, pre-owned pieces, conscious jewellery goods that I buy – including clothing, but also and upcycled watches. We provide dedicated, food, household goods etc. I also don’t try curated edits, a filter within all categories and over-think things – if I’m spending time and information at the product level – all to debating between a fair-trade OR carbonhelp consumers shop more positively. neutral product, I’m probably not spending Customers can now clear space in their my time wisely. There are arguments on both wardrobe and earn FARFETCH credit with sides but, it’s better to choose something posour resale programme FARFETCH Second itive than not include a positive choice at all.
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The Business of Sustainability Caroline Rush CBE, CEO of the British Fashion Council for over a decade, discusses the business of sustainability in the industry and supporting emerging talent How important to commerce is content? The connection between commerce and digital content has become more important than ever. When it comes to London Fashion Week, the pandemic forced many designers to re-evaluate the ways they communicate with their audience, transforming the way fashion is consumed. Since we launched the digital LFW platform back in 2020, we’ve seen a lot more focus on creative content rather than actual product, offering designers visibility with digital projects and more opportunities for storytelling and international reach. The digital platform has enabled designers to expand their creative worlds and convey their brand message in new and exciting ways, allowing them to build a community. How do you approach challenges in general – what tools do you have in your armoury to stay positive? It’s been two very difficult years. The pandemic has hit everyone in the industry but with every challenge comes opportunities and we need to continue to stay optimistic – we have incredible designers, innovation and creativity, and that continues to resonate around the world. The pandemic also gave us a chance to rethink the fashion industry and an opportunity to change and work towards creating an industry that is more sustainable, equal and diverse. As an organisation, we are committed to celebrate the industry’s best practice and encourage future business decisions that create positive change. How do you think last year affected the industry and how was BFC forced to pivot in light of these? The global pandemic left us in a state of emergency with many businesses struggling to stay afloat but as ever, the British fashion industry demonstrated resilience and determination and what emerged was
charity arm, activates talent support initiatives and allocates several scholarships each year to students, aiming to strengthen those leading the way in terms of creativity, positive business growth, environmental and community impact as well as to increase the diversity of the talent pool. Now, more than ever, it is important to champion talent and to support our emerging and young businesses while increasing the diversity of the talent pool. Can you expand on how BFC supports a drive towards more sustainable practices and do you think this is a key requirement for consumers to date? Consumers are increasingly favouring brands with a commitment to environmental sustainability and it’s fantastic to see British designers at the forefront of this movement. The BFC champions designers and businesses that employ sustainable practices. In 2020, we created the Institute of Positive Fashion (IPF) to support sustainability and help the British fashion industry to be more resilient and circular, working as a hub for industry research, discussion, debate, and evaluation. Through the IPF, BFC is working on a 10-year strategy to enable the industry to reduce climate and societal impact in line with UN goals. In June last year, we hosted our first Institute of Positive Fashion Forum, a thought leadership event designed to galvanise the British fashion industry alongside international businesses into global collaboration and local action, ahead of COP26. Last September, we also launched the Circular a display of incredible creativity. In terms Fashion Ecosystem, a project with an aim to create a blueprint to share with other organof London Fashion Week, the pandemic facilitated a total reset. We were very quick to isations and nations to guide them in their efmove online, creating a fully digital event forts to create more circular businesses. that was accessible to everyone, indusWhat advice would you give to entrepreneurs try members and public alike. It forced us in the current market? The current market is to think outside the box and challenge the undoubtedly challenging but young designnorms and ideas of how we traditionally ers, as digital natives, can really use techlook at fashion weeks, while having to think nology and social media to their advantage of new ways to promote our designers on a to leverage their businesses. Entrepreneurs global scale. Since we have emerged from within the fashion industry can think strathe pandemic, we have used these learnings tegically about how they present collections to create a hybrid event that encourages dein order to minimise costs to their business. signers to show when and how is best suited The digital LFW platform, which hosts everto them with all seasons still open to both green multimedia content and is accessible to industry professionals and consumers, men’s and womenswear designers. means that emerging designers can take part What has been your approach to scaling BFC in the event through virtual presentations, and supporting emerging talent? The UK has a look books and films. Not every business reputation of having some of the most innomodel is the same for everyone and there is vative and creative talent and it is important not only one recipe for success. Social media that we nurture that creativity in a way that can be used creatively to connect with conimproves equality, equity, and opportunity so sumers and expose young brands to a much that the fashion industry remains open to all. wider audience base. I am consistently imWe approach supporting the future growth and success of the British fashion industry by pressed with the innovative approaches emfocusing on education, grant-giving and busiployed by the next generation of creative talent across each of these platforms. ness mentoring. The BFC Foundation, our
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E.L.V. DENIM is the only denim brand globally to use 100 per cent upcycled denim. With over 20 years’ experience in the fashion industry, founder Anna Foster discusses building a truly sustainable brand from the ground-up What inspired you to go into the world of fashion? I had a love of clothes from an early stage that was passed down to me by my mother. She was a model in the ‘70s and she had such a personal sense of style that was so effortless. She used to make clothes for me and my siblings when we were young, and I remember being in John Lewis in the fabric department choosing the patterns and material. I produced fashion shows at university, but I didn’t realise there was an actual career such as a stylist until I had left university. To have a career in an industry that I loved, well I was single-minded from then. I hand-delivered letters to fashion directors, and i-D magazine came back to me, and that was it, I was where I was supposed to be.
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Can you talk us through your career prior to launching E.L.V. Denim? I am currently Fashion Director at Large at RUSSH magazine, having been a stylist for over 20 years. I have loved my career, and it gave me the skill set, the experience and the confidence to launch E.L.V. DENIM. How did E.L.V. come to fruition – what was the inspiration for the brand? It was threefold really. As a stylist, I was occasionally given a sample or one-off piece that wouldn’t be produced again, and the strong emotional connection and value I put on these unique pieces was so special, it made me want to pass on this concept of having a unique piece to others. I knew that by taking second-hand or vintage clothing I would be
able to create unique pieces. I started to look into second-hand garments, and when discovered the shocking statistics around denim I knew I had found my fabric. Two facts that stuck out for me, and what I really want everyone to know – 1) There are more jeans than people in the world, most of which are discarded, and 2) the jaw-dropping fact that it took 10,000 litres of water to make one pair, which is the same amount that one person drinks in 13 years. Denim was designed as a functioning work fabric, however, the environmental and socio-economic costs of producing this fabric, means we have to right this wrong, we have a responsibility to make as much of this material viable again. In addition to this, I have been Denim obsessive all my life and found it so frustrating when I found a style I loved and then a brand would change it, so this frustration turned into a really special part of the brand’s manifesto! We have three styles, and these will never change, and we will just add more colourways. You can always turn a frustration into something special! Can you talk us through the concept? We only use discarded post-consumer waste denim to make our jeans. These are misshapen, large, damaged jeans which have very little value at all given to them, they can’t be resold in their current state, so I wanted to use this as my ‘raw material’ to create a brand. These are the jeans that I want, what no one else does, and they are restructured... upcycled and turned into what I believe are truly beautiful timeless pieces. Not only that, we only work with local ateliers, who are within a five-mile radius of the business to manufacture E.L.V. DENIM. For me as a British Brand, it’s essential to support the restoration of UK manufacturing. And not only that, it means it keeps our carbon footprint at its lowest. How have things evolved since you launched E.L.V. DENIM in 2018? When I launched the brand, I had one style of jean, The Straight Jean – where two large unwanted jeans (Grade A) are turned into two E.L.V. DENIM jeans. But as the brand developed I realized that I could take Grade B jeans and extract the undamaged part so The Boyfriend and The Flare were born. And then I went further down the grades and started to take Grade C & D denim and turn them into The Jumpsuit & The Dress. I design from a
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point of waste, but whereas others see this as a problem, I see this as potential. We now have a Made To Order Studio where we are able to make custom pairs, and it has allowed us to take the first steps into becoming fully circular. The studio, which was made possible with an award from the British Fashion Trust, allows us to repair or replace parts of existing E.L.V. DENIM jeans that have been damaged or need a refresh. We will also offer consumers the opportunity to return jeans to us with a takeback scheme with ReSkinned. But the long term goal and most exciting part of our circular journey is the plan to start research in regenerative technology, to create 100 per cent recycled denim, and at the same time start processes to help the Textile Association’s sort waste at source. How would you describe the E.L.V. DENIM woman? She believes in the possibility of being an environmental enthusiast without having to compromise her effortless style. She carefully curates a wardrobe of individuality, choosing to find pieces that will last a lifetime. She believes in quality and knows that even hidden details that only she knows bring a level of sophistication. How are you scaling E.L.V.’s business model when it comes to the Middle Eastern market and what does this region mean to you? I came to Dubai in October and it was completely inspiring. It was the first time we had been able to visit our retailers out there, and the warm reception I received was really humbling. Everyone was so genuinely interested in the brand’s ethos and what I am trying to do to sort out the denim textile waste problem. I want to take what I have learnt and inspire other countries to do the same by developing my reputation as a thought leader in upcycling. My dream is to blueprint our East London atelier and create studios across the world, starting in the Middle East! In business, what is a philosophy you live by? Treat people that you work with as you would your family. Be kind, as social sustainability is just as vital as environmental sustainability. Do you have any mentors who have helped guide you during your career? Yes, many! Mimma Viglezio who is a journalist and broadcaster, but previously was EVP of Communications at the Gucci Group, prior to becoming Kering. She has been such a strong female figure to me, even though I was completely intimidated by her when we first met! She is the first person I go to for advice. Sir Paul Smith, who I had the pleasure of meeting when I was one of the Vogue Fashion Fund finalists. He invited me to his offices, and I absorbed every word he said. During that meeting, he gave me a great bit of advice on a piece I was working on, and I said to him, I will have to pay you royalties, and he said, “No Anna, that’s friend-
“We don’t need one person to be perfect, we need 8 billion people to be one per cent better.” ship.” It was a great lesson, that if you have confidence in what you do, you should have no concerns in being completely generous in sharing advice and knowledge. What have been the hurdles you’ve had to overcome throughout your career? Finding an atelier that would believe in my concept, to individually cut each piece from existing garments and to produce jeans to a pattern and at scale. That many people said that upcycling couldn’t be a successful business model.
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This is The Sustainability Issue – what does this mean to you? When I started this journey, very few people knew what this meant. Now only five years later it forms part of every industry’s development. Sometimes I worry that, especially in fashion, the definition can be lost, however, the fact it’s on everyone’s radar can only be a good thing. We must make changes in the way we consume. However, we don’t need one person to be perfect, we need 8 billion people to be one per cent better.
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The Rise of Secondhand Luxury
Vintage, pre-loved, secondhand. We look at the smart, sustainable way to buy into luxury
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he rise of secondhand luxury over the past decade has been unparalleled and the want and desire to own brand-new luxury items is a thing of the past. Now estimated to be a multi-billion-dollar arm of the fashion industry, last year alone the secondhand luxury market saw a huge increase of 18 per cent from $36.1 billion in 2020 to $37.3 billion, according to Statista. It’s expected to increase twofold by 2026 to an estimated global value of $77 billion. With dedicated sites for pre-loved goods rising threefold including Vestiaire Collective, The Luxury Closet, Depop, The RealReal, Luxury Promise, Rotaro and more, it’s also a market big e-commerce sites have noticed. FARFETCH, one of the leading luxury fashion e-commerce sites, is one such key player that is paving the way in the luxury market. Just recently, the London-based e-commerce giant acquired resale platform Luxclusif, a leading tech business-to-busi-
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FARFETCH
Continuing to champion sustainable ways of shopping, leading e-commerce platform FARFETCH launched its Second Life arm last year, first in Europe and the USA, eventually arriving in the Middle East in October 2021. The new service available in the region is being run in partnership with The Luxury Closet and will enable consumers in the UAE, Kuwait and Saudi Arabia to trade in their designer handbags in exchange for credit to be used towards future purchases on FARFETCH. At the time, FARFETCH’s Chief Commercial and Sustainability Officer, Giorgio Belloli, explained moving towards a more sustainable model in fashion was “critical”, and the secondhand model is one of the most important ways to champion this. “Extending the useful life of fashion items is absolutely critical to the sustainability of the industry,” he said. “Enabling services, like FARFETCH Second Life, that make it easy for customers to do this, also offers an attractive opportunity to engage luxury consumers to shop with FARFETCH.”
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Luxury Promise
ness platform enabling the sale and acquisition of secondhand luxury goods ranging from auctions to e-commerce platforms to retailers and more worldwide. Not only is the secondhand luxury fashion industry evidently a booming business, but it’s also encouraging consumers to be savvier and smarter when it comes to the items they invest it. In turn, it’s a far more sustainable way to shop and slows down the trend cycle. With the exponential growth of the secondhand luxury fashion industry set to catapult in the coming years, Emirates Woman decided to delve deep into the platforms that are the most trustworthy in the business and are sure to bring you the very best of what pre-loved luxury goods has to offer from bags to clothes to jewellery to watches and more. Vestiaire Collective
Arguably the leading platform when it comes to the resale of luxury goods, Vesti-
aire Collective first launched in 2009 in Paris. Now, 12 years on, it has become a global phenomenon when it comes to pre-loved luxury with offices in Paris, New York City, Hong Kong and Singapore, as well as a tech hub in Berlin. With an estimated inventory of three million items and over half a million new listings every month, it’s clear to see the app has spearheaded the sustainable fashion movement. The RealReal
Founded by Julie Wainwright in 2011, The RealReal is the leading luxury resale site in the USA and is first and foremost an online hub for secondhand luxury goods. However, The RealReal diversified its offering in 2017 launching its first brick and mortar store in New York City and a second in Los Angeles the following year. As of 2022, The RealReal now has 16 retail stores across the USA in cities including Miami, Florida, Austin, Atlanta, Texas, Georgia and more.
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First launched in 2016 by Sabrina Sadiq, Luxury Promise is a leading London-based resale platform where people can buy, sell and swap luxury goods. Having seen over 450 per cent growth in sales in the last two years alone, Luxury Promise recently raised approximately $10.9 million from an array of strategic investors and leading figures in the luxury industry including former Jimmy Choo CEO, Pierre Denis, former CEO of De Beers Jewelers and executive at LVMH, Pierre Denis and more. Taking the platform to the next level, Luxury Promise has become one of the first to introduce artificial intelligence into its app. The Luxury Closet
Founded over a decade ago by Kunal Kapoor, The Luxury Closet, based in Dubai, is one of the leading luxury resale platforms not only in the Middle East, but worldwide. With premium brands including Cartier, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Van Cleef and Arpels and more, there’s over 40,000 unique items to choose from on The Luxury Closet’s platform. The changing shopping mentality towards seeking unique vintage pieces and pre-loved items has been spearheaded by the millennial generation, Kunal previously told Emirates Woman. “Consumers’ luxury shopping habits are changing; they’re taking into consideration what ownership really stands for and its definition, along with the impact it has on the environment too,” he said.
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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
MAXIMIZING
MINIMALISM
Content Creator and Influencer Saira Farhat aka @Fashky has an impeccable eye. We ask how she edits her home and wardrobe with a buy less, buy better mentality in mind What time do you rise and what do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? My alarm clock is set for roughly 6am daily, I pray and jump straight into my skincare routine immediately after. I cleanse, apply my Royal Fern essence that I leave on for a good few mins, moisturise and finish with lots of SPF. When was the moment you realized you had to make the leap and start your own brand and how did your previous roles pave the way for this? Honestly it just fell into place, and really fits well with my lifestyle. I’ve always loved fashion and styling for as long as I can remember. What is at the core of FASHKY, the DNA and business model? Minimalism. Quality, not quantity, is my measure. From interiors to fashion to skincare and makeup, it’s all about sticking to the essentials.
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How do you support the topic of sustainability when it comes to buy less, buy better throughout your life? A curated wardrobe is the way. What will I wear the most?! I love a good blazer, trench coat, T-shirt and tailored pants so that’s what I invest in. Buying vintage and second hand is also something I’ve been doing for years now, a shout out to The Level Store on Insta. Which investment pieces are your hero buys and why? My vintage Hermes Kelly, I could wear that one bag forever. I also have a couple of blazers, notably from Margiela and Vetements (both oversized) that I always end up throwing on, they are my security blankets for sure. Lastly my Eames Lounge Chair and Ottoman. The Eames has been around since the 1950s, it’s an iconic chair and ages beautifully. How do the commercial and creative sides
of the business work together for you and do you feel particularly drawn to one side of the business? I am a creative at heart, it’s always been top priority. I find a sense of authenticity in that. Building on that to become commercial is a skill I’m yet to figure out. What has been the largest challenge since launching the brand and how did you overcome it? I dress modestly so sometimes this can be a little tricky for some people to understand. I think communication is key with anything in life so being transparent with brands I work with has helped a lot. Have you had any mentors along the way and if so, what has been the best advice they have imparted to you? I have an amazing mentor, who I happen to be married to. He always tells me to be myself, and it’s the best advice anyone can give.
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ECO SOLES
WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH
Marta Llaquet, Elizabeth Sabin and Damian Augustyniak are the cofounders of SAYE. We find out what it takes to deliver a new sneaker brand successfully to market and to power change in terms of ecological footprint and production What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? ML: My day begins with mindfulness meditation practices to let go of any negativity and begin the day on a positive note. I then prepare a cup of coffee and begin delving into the tasks that lie ahead for the day. What was the inspiration for launching SAYE and how did it culminate in you coming together? ML: We aimed to launch a sneaker that gave back to the planet. That’s why we plant two trees for each sale, and we use vegan, recycled and bio-based materials to ensure that the environment is protected during the production process. Can you explain what a biodegradable sneaker is and how the production differs from usual? ML: SAYE sneakers are made from bio-based materials such as corn, rice, mango, cactus and bamboo. These types of materials come from natural resources and focus on the concept of “Made Responsibly”. Each pair is designed with sustainable and left-over materials that focuses on the concept of upcycled sneakers. Design and sustainability are both key elements for SAYE – was this conscious from the outset? ML: Yes, from the beginning we have tried to create a brand that empowers sustainable values. The brand plants two trees for every pair of sneakers, thereby giving back to the environment, to ensure our carbon footprint is minimized. Have you always planned to be a part of the fight against deforestation? ML: Yes, currently SAYE has planted more than 200,000 trees worldwide. You use ecological yarns and natural dyes. How hard was it to implement this in the creative process? ML: Using ecological yarns and natural dyes is frankly one of the biggest challenges we’ve had.
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Suppliers that use this production technique are very scarce and since the dye is made without chemicals, the color palette is limited. You use unique materials such as vegan cactus and mango. How was this a challenge to incorporate in the design? ML: These are very innovative materials, and their performance has not been tested as long as traditional materials have been used. Especially in the footwear industry, it becomes a challenge to incorporate such elements into the design process. The packaging for SAYE is also sustainable – how challenging was it to get this right? ML: Yes, we use a plastic-free and fully biodegradable bag. It wouldn’t be coherent to use the plastic bag that the courier provides. You have global clients – do you see trends in buying patterns as a brand? ML: Yes, from the beginning our main markets have been located in Central Europe. This target market specifically focuses on the use of sustainable and high-quality products, making it the region with our top sales. At SAYE you promote an ethical work environment – tell us more? ML: We produce in European certified factories that respect workers’ rights, shifts and protects them. At the SAYE office, out of the 20 team members, 70 per cent are women. This is The Sustainability Issue – how are you personally and professional contributing to a more sustainable way of living? ML: Apart from offering vegan and sustainable sneakers as a brand, we try to transmit this value to the team members. On the one hand, we try to be eco-friendly at the office, and on the other hand we organize teambuilding activities that revolve around this value, for instance a plastic collection at the Barcelona beach.
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A VIBRANT CELEBRATION
Stylist: OUMAYMA EL BOUMESHOULI
Photographer: SAM RAWADI
H&M celebrates a vibrant sense of individuality and a boldness of spirit for Ramadan and Eid
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“What I love is how versatile these pieces are. The collection is tailored for occasion wear, but there’s such an opportunity for experimentation in any circumstance. From wide sleeves and delicate pleats to adjustable waistlines and floral motifs, there is lots to self-express and celebrate with”, says Eliana Masgalos, Concept Designer
AVAILABLE IN SELECTED STORES, ON AE.HM.COM AND ON THE H&M APP FROM 3RD MARCH 2022 FASHION ASSISTANT: NILOFAR YAQOUBI; MAKEUP & HAIR: MÉLANIE MEYER AT MMG ARTISTS; MODEL: FATIMA AT SIGNATURE ELEMENT; LOCATION WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO MYSK AL BADAYER RETREAT
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Hot New Buys WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH
An edit of all the latest luxe beauty buys harnessing new sustainable packaging and ingredients
Gentle Exfoliation Packed with papaya enzymes this ethical oil-to-cream balm gently removes impurities for a healthy glow. Dhs159 Bamford
This hydrating hand wash is packaged in low-emission blown glass bottles using a powder-to-water formula. Dhs81 Forgo
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PLANT-BASED CLEANSING
Vitamin-E Magic This Aloe leaf juice-packed refillable cream protects moisture levels while replenishing the skin’s natural barrier. Dhs440 Irene Forte
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Vegan Plumping This formula helps rebuild protein bonds, promising fuller-looking lips without any invasion. Dhs140 Nubyen
NATURAL FORMULA A classic deodorant packed with clean ingredients in plastic-free refills for an eco-conscious approach. Dhs74 Fussy
Hair Protection This multi-skilled serum counters environmental UV damage with an ethical touch. Dhs175 Davines
Organic Extracts This lightweight skin hydrating boost naturally reduces the appearance of fine lines. Dhs220 Evolve Organic Beauty
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Ozonic Scent This refreshing eco-friendly perfume contains notes of vetiver and benzoin making it ideal for everyday wear. 100ml for Dhs408 Clean Reserve
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Balance
The best mood balancing tools to sustain equilibrium
Stress Check Breathe In, 8ml
A super blend of pure essential Eucalyptus, Frankincense and Lavender oils acts to invigorate, soothe and relax. Dhs90 This Works The World’s Kindest Eye Mask
These self-heating eye masks warm up to 38c within 30 seconds of opening. Once on, the mask can aid with sleep and soothe dry, puffy eyes. They can help to ease migraines too, as
they are capable of making you relax while leaving you feeling refreshed and renewed.
De-Stress Pure Essential Oil Blend, 10ml
Dhs94 Calm available at projectbyouty.com
Infused with two kinds of Frankincense: grounding Boswellia Frereana Resin and uplifting Boswellia Carterii – together they ease breathing and clear the mind.
Mood & Emotional balance
Saffron helps maintain and support emotional wellbeing and healthy mood balance. It decreases and relieves the symptoms of stress, mild anxiety, nervous tension and restlessness. Dhs165 JS Health Vitamins
Dhs122 Aromatherapy Associates PM & Sleep Formula
Prepare your body and mind for a restful night’s sleep with the PM+ sleep vitamin. Formulated with a special blend of herbs
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and minerals, this formula is designed to relax the body and calm the mind, while relieving symptoms of mild anxiety. Dhs147 JS Health Vitamins De-Stress Mind Bath and Shower Oil, 55ml
This therapeutic formula is blended with Frankincense and Rosemary essential oils to help with anxiety and clarity while improving cellular health, digestion and circulation. Dhs243 Aromatherapy Associates
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY A Beginner’s Guide
The best brands to introduce you to a cruelty-free, clean and environmentally green beauty routine
A
s an industry that is worth over $511 billion worldwide, there’s big money to be made in the beauty space. However, with that comes a lot of waste. From ingredients used, to unsustainable packaging to wasted product, just like the fashion industry, there’s hurdles to be overcome to make the beauty industry a cleaner and greener space. But the tide is slowly turning, with consumers now looking for brands which are more sustainable and kinder to the planet. With that, here are some of the hero brands that are doing their bit to help when it comes to sustainability. Glo Skin Beauty
This consciously clean, cruelty-free brand is a leader when it comes to delivering premium skin results using only safe, ethical, and sustainably sourced ingredients. The Hero Buy: The Solutions Serum Set Dhs473 available at Apotheca Beauty Hourglass
Hourglass Cosmetics first launched in 2004, with the aim to reinvent luxury cosmetics. As a cruelty-free brand from the start, Hourglass has paved the way in the beauty
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industry. Taking a further step to being a sustainable and clean brand, Hourglass became a fully vegan brand in 2020 and continues to feature and produce products with cutting-edge formulas. The Hero Buy: Red Confession™ Ultra Slim High Intensity Refillable Lipstick Dhs230 available at OUNASS Davines
Since 1983, Davines Group has been a pioneer in sustainable beauty. Over time, the brand’s commitment to sustainability has become the number one priority with an increasingly holistic approach and integrated with all our processes: from the research of the ingredients for their beauty formulas up to the final product on the shelves of their salons. The Hero Buy: Heart of Glass Silkening Shampoo Dhs100 available at EIDEAL Tata Harper
The intricately handcrafted range of skincare is 100 per cent natural and non-toxic and uses the finest plant-based ingredients from around the world that deliver exceptional results. Founded by Tata Harper in 2010, her mix of potent extracts can easily compete with the most advanced synthetics. The Hero Buy: Elixir Vitae Serum Dhs2,000 available at bloomingdales.ae Porcelain
First launched in 2019, this Danish fragrance brand focuses on the art of natural perfumery. Using 100 per cent quality natural ingredients, the scents are refined and produced in Northern Italy using the finest raw materials. The Hero Buy: Osmanth Dhs1,000 Pestel & Mortar
Founded by Sonia Deasy in 2014, Pestle & Mortar is an award-winning skincare line packed with clean ingredients, through generations of healing practices that have been carefully curated into the brand. The Hero Buy: Balance Spritz Face Mist Dhs180 available at OUNASS
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Olivanna
Olivanna, founded by Janine Summers, harnesses the power of the surroundings of the UK countryside using the finest British grown plant and seed oil extracts for their bespoke facial techniques and artisan glass bottles. Championing women and clean beauty, this game-changing brand is now available in the Middle East. The Hero Buy: Bakuchiol Miracle Night Serum Dhs358
Sisley Paris
Founded by Hubert d’Ornano in 1976 with his wife Isabelle, this beauty brand has been a pioneer from its inception. Under the vision of the founders and their groundbreaking foresight to champion phyto-cosmetology – which is when cosmetics are derived from botanical extracts – Sisley Paris remains at the helm of the luxury cosmetics industry. Using only the highest quality ingredients, not only does Sisley’s products deliver the best beauty has to offer, but their groundbreaking approach to product development has also aided in the brand reducing its carbon footprint and incorporating environmentally friendly practices. The Hero Buy: Phyto-Rouge Shine 41 Sheer Red Love Dhs190
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SUSTAINING YOUR SKIN An Expert Guide Dubai cosmetic dermatologist, Dr Julian Bachour of Elborno Clinic, discusses the best way to get optimum skin results and how to sustain them
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Talk us through your career. My journey began in 2007 when I earned a Bachelor of Science in biology and chemistry at the University of Balamand, and a Doctor of Medicine (MD) in 2015 at the University of Balamand in Beirut, Lebanon. I then completed my internship in internal medicine, and residency in dermatology at Saint George Hospital University Medical Center, where I found I could merge my dedication to healing with my passion for healthy, beautiful skin. I graduated with a Master’s degree in dermatology speciality in 2019 after which I was engaged at Broomfield hospital located in Chelmsford, UK. I went on to complete my training in the UK where I received a postgraduate diploma in cosmetic medicine from South Wales University. I even received a certificate in Dermoscopy from HealthCert, Australia, that allowed me to be a well-trained dermatologist providing the most up to date dermatological care and cosmetic procedures. The training and education I gained made me ready to assemble my clinical ability and practice to give quality patient care and meet the future human services needs in the nation and district. I am focused on giving the highest quality of dermatologic care in an unmistakably expert, extensive, and caring way. I like to offer evidence-based and clinically proven treatments to my patients to deliver optimal results in medicine, beauty and overall health. What made you decide to go into the dermatology field? In short, I want to make people feel powerful, beautiful, capable and strong. It’s really hard to explain how the appearance of a human being plays a role in selfconsciousness and personality. Skin diseases such as acne, psoriasis, and eczema are associated with a significant impairment in the quality of the patient’s daily life. You cannot believe how many of my friends were ashamed, shy and lost self confidence in themselves due to acne problems. Again, non-invasive cosmetic procedures have a great efficacy in decreasing shyness and anxiety, betterment of interpersonal interactions and improving self-esteem, attractiveness and self-image. The second reason I chose dermatology is rooted in my personal life since my father is a dermatologist. I used to go sometimes with him to the clinic and I just loved it. If I’ve ever met you, I’ve studied every line, bump, and pigmentation of your face. It’s a rewarding field, and it’s inspiring to keep people’s skin healthy. When it comes to taking care of our skin, what are the biggest mistakes you see? There are many! But the number one is skipping cleansing your face. Even when you’re so tired and just want to go to sleep, make sure you remove your makeup. It can trap dirt and environmental pollutants inside the skin, and
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this type of environmental stress can result in increased free radicals which can cause DNA mutations, collagen degradation and, over time, can result in premature ageing. Prolonged wearing of makeup during sleep also can clog pores, resulting in acne. Daily sunscreen is a must. Even if it’s cloudy, rainy or snowy, you really need sunscreen every day. Exposure to sunlight can cause black spots and skin damage, which can lead to skin cancer. You don’t have to be on the beach to be overexposed to the sun. You may not be aware that you are doing it, but constant plucking of your skin can cause irritation, skin irritation, and bacterial spread. This can lead to scarring or infection since your hands have a significant amount of bacteria. Regular use of a tanning bed is worse than forgetting to wear sunscreen every day. They increase the risk of melanoma, make the skin look less elastic and accelerate ageing. In terms of skincare, “natural” does not necessarily mean that it is good for the skin. Remember that poison ivy is natural. Essential oils are often very concentrated and can cause skin reactions. Therefore, it is better to choose a dermatologically tested cream instead. It is also important to note that not all creams are intended to be used for all skin types, so if a friend really had benefited from a specific cream, that does not mean it will be suitable for your skin too. It can lead to acne breakout or eczema. When it comes to achieving optimum skin results, how do we maintain them? Besides having the correct skincare routine, we should eat healthily, avoid smoking and exercise regularly. In addition, exfoliating is really help-
“I want to make people feel powerful, beautiful, capable and strong.” ful in removing dead skin cells. I always say prevention is better than treatment, therefore undergoing regular noninvasive cosmetic procedures to slow down the ageing process is a must. For example, if we have wrinkles on movement it is time to do botulinum toxin, we should not wait till the wrinkles show without muscle movement which is irreversible. If that happens then botulinum toxin will not be capable of removing the fine wrinkles. There are a lot of machines that make your skin look more vibrant and youthful so
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it is always a good idea to have this youthful appearance with the help of technologies that can postpone or even eliminate surgical cosmetic procedure that may be needed if we did not fight the ageing. What is the most popular non-invasive treatment your clients have and why do you think this is? Botulinum toxin remains the most popular noninvasive treatment worldwide and in my clinic. I believe this is because everyone hates having wrinkles. Botox is one of the oldest non-surgical cosmetic treatments so it has a proven track record of safety and efficacy. It is also popular since there is no downtime and no discomfort. In addition, treatment is very quick and convenient. There’s been a common misconception in the past that skincare is only for females, but it’s just as important in a male’s grooming routine. What products and treatments do you recommend for men? Male patients also develop acne, skin cancer and ageing spots. Because of this skincare routine for men is also essential. This involves having an appropriate cleanser, daily sunscreen and a treating cream at night like vitamin A to help the skin glow. Usage of skincare for men and minimally invasive cosmetic procedures have been increasing massively especially amid the pandemic, with the desire to look presentable on video calls. We have developed great techniques to administer botox and still leave some expressions giving the natural look to everyone. Men in their 30s begin to encounter extending wrinkles around the face. These wrinkles at the beginning only show up upon movement. But in the long run a few of these lines start showing up at rest. Botox and other neurotoxins are applied to address these wrinkles by paralyzing the muscle involved. There is growing interest among men to start on preventive Botox. Injectable fillers can be used to smooth wrinkles and look more youthful. But masculinity has evolved and more men than ever are seeking a more square looking face with sharp cheekbones and a more defined prominent jaw. In addition to this, a lot of men nowadays are seeking removal of hair body or in defining their beard. How do you hope to help your clients both outside and inside? I actually practice active listening. I like to ask about the things that are bothering the client before giving my opinion. I then educate the patient about the ageing process and what tools we have to counteract the bothering problem, then give my advice about treatment. I like to build a treatment strategy for patients and do things in sessions, gaining their trust session by session. I always try to do my best and build a good reputation. I like to focus on skin quality and not just the problem that is bothering the client. When they see improvement in
the problem they hate, they will definitely be happy, but when they see that the problem is solved and the texture of their skin is 5 years younger, they will love my work. Building trust and satisfaction with my clients is the most important thing. It is also important to say no to clients when I believe a procedure will do more harm than benefits.
DR JULIAN BACHOUR’S TOP FIVE TIPS FOR SUSTAINING YOUR SKIN We all wish to have a glowing skin. It is the largest organ in our bodies, so investing in it is extremely valuable. To start with every person should have the right skincare products suitable for him/her. 1. Use the correct cleanser for your skin type. You should cleanse every morning when you wake up and every night before sleeping. For oily or acne-prone skin, a salicylic gel or benzoyl peroxide wash works great. Use either a glycolic or milky cleanser if you have dry skin. Consider a brightening cleanser that has alpha hydroxy acid for example if you have melasma or hyperpigmentation. For skin with brown spots or melasma, use a brightening wash, such as an alpha hydroxy acid cleanser. 2. Apply a moisturizer daily. If your skin is greasy, you may think that it is better to skip the morning moisturizer, but drying your skin can actually make your acne worse. However, choose the right moisturizer so that it does not exacerbate acne or make the skin greasy (non-comedogenic or oil-free products). 3. Always wear sunscreen. Wear sunscreen 365 days a year whether it’s raining or sunny, indoors or outdoors, you must have your sunscreen. Many feel that they need to protect themselves only on sunny days or when going to the beach. But the truth is that we need to protect our skin, whether we’re driving, flying, or sitting at home. It is daily UV exposure that contributes to the visible signs of ageing. The sunscreen should be SPF 30 or higher and should be renewed on the face every two hours if you are outside. 4. Eat healthily and stop smoking. A balanced diet is important, but there are several ways to add vitamins to your skin. There are also topical antioxidants that are serums and creams that contain ingredients that nourish the skin like Vitamin C serum. 5. Always wash your face at night. In the evening, clean your face again and apply a cream with active ingredients like vitamin A creams. It is important not to use too many products. It can strain the skin and cause more breakouts and clogged pores.
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When it comes to mental health, the conversation often surrounds solutions to fix various prevailing issues. However, what about sustaining your mental health? Dr Sarah Rasmi, Founder of Thrive Wellbeing Centre, discusses techniques on how to maintain optimal mental health
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Mental Health,
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WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
Mental Wealth What inspired you to go into the wellness space? I started my career as a full-time psychology professor and researcher. During this time, I had many opportunities to connect with the community through various workshops, speaking engagements, and media opportunities. This is when I realized that my real interest lies in applying the science that I love so much. I took the decision to launch Thrive in 2018. I was the only psychologist for the first few months and was focused primarily on workshops and research consultancy. I started to grow my team and the clinic naturally evolved. We are now a total of fifteen practitioners – psychologists and psychiatrists, supported by a team of six administrators. We offer the full range of psychological services – therapy, assessments, learning and development, and research. As an expert in the field of mental health, what do you find people struggle with the most? I would say that there are three primary struggles: anxiety, relationships and burnout. The conversation surrounding mental health has certainly become more prevalent in recent years, but there’s still a long way to go. What is your advice to combatting this? Mental health is like physical health. We want to focus on promoting it. We also want to ensure that any challenges are prevented – and if this is not possible, that intervention happens early. This requires a number of steps. The first is to raise awareness about various issues. We were very proud to partner with Dubai Science Park on a recent awareness campaign about depression and some of the symptoms that people can look out for. The next step is to reduce stig-
ma. One way to do this is to normalize talking about mental health and seeking support. There is no shame in seeking support and I am the first to admit that I personally see a therapist on a weekly basis. It doesn’t make me – or anyone else getting support – weak or negative. The third step is related to the second one: quality support needs to be available. There is a shortage of qualified psychologists and psychiatrists here in the UAE and this means that it can be difficult to find the right match and meet with someone right away. Luckily, at Thrive, we have a diverse and relatively large team so we are able to address this. Often when it comes to mental health, we tackle problems when they get far beyond our control. How can we sustain optimum mental health without getting to this point? The first step is to go back to basics. Getting enough sleep, eating well, and exercising regularly can do wonders for our physical and mental health. It is also important that we nurture our social connections because they are a key driver of well-being, according to the Harvard Study of Adult Development. I also recommend making time to connect with ourselves – time alone to introspect, reflect, and engage in activities that are purposeful and meaningful can be incredibly healing. These are all preventative measures and coping strategies that we can use if we’re struggling. That being said, sometimes we need professional support and that is ok too. It is ok to not be ok. We have good, evidencebased treatments available to help people overcome the challenges that they are facing. It’s been a particularly tasking time for people over the last two years due to the pandemic.
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What have you found people have struggled with the most? The primary struggles have not changed during the pandemic but there have been some nuanced shifts. For example, anxiety was the primary presenting problem in my experience with the community at Thrive. That hasn’t changed but now the anxiety is more likely to be around health and social issues than it was before. In your opinion, what affect does social media have on our minds and how can we minimize the negative impact it can have? Social media has a number of benefits and a number of challenges. For example, it provides us with a space to connect with loved ones all over the world. It also provides us with an opportunity to express ourselves. At the same time, social media can disconnect us from people in our lives if we spend too much time on it. It can also be challenging because we only get access to other people’s carefully curated lives. As a result, most of what is shared online is positive whereas our own lives are much more balanced. Sometimes, it is hard to remember that and we end up having unrealistic expectations of ourselves and feel poorly when we fail to meet them. That being said, I am so pleased to see that many content creators are showing a more balanced approach online. Two of my favourites are Helen Farmer and Dina Butti. I also try to do my part by sharing my own challenges and experiences in therapy. I struggled to do this at first because I am a private person by nature, but I realized that many people assumed that I had it all together because I am a psychologist. I want everyone to know that no one has it all together; not even the “experts” and that is ok.
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The Beauty Shelf Rumana Nazim, Founder of Dubai-based concept store, The Edit, talks us through her hero beauty products C O M P I L E D BY: S A R A H J O S E P H
The brilliant prime radiance serum 30 sachets for Dhs1,748 Noble Panacea
Noble Panacea is the absolute holy grail in skincare routine. The brand is completely clean and sustainable with gorgeous packaging and single use sachets which can be recycled. My favourite thing about it though is the efficacy. The serum regenerates skin and gives it a vitality and radiance that I haven’t found in any other serum. Push play power matte lip pigment Dhs145 Nars
I love liquid matte lipsticks but struggle to find ones that don’t dry out my lips. This Nars red lipstick is the perfect shade for almost every skin tone and comes with a very precise applicator that ensures you get that perfect pout. Absolute renewable balm Dhs1,673 Noble Panacea
Vanish Concealer Dhs190 Hourglass
I tend not to wear much makeup on a daily basis but when I do, this concealer does the job, especially if I’ve not had much sleep. It is quite pigmented but looks quite natural. The Noir 100ml for Dhs1,155 Le Labo
Anyone who knows me knows that this scent is one I refuse to part with. Le Labo makes bold scents which have a more contemporary flair to them, so it’s quite user friendly for both day and night.
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OI hair butter Dhs140 Davines
All of Davines’ products are great but this one stands out by nourishing my hair, making it less frizzy and adding a softness. I have fine hair, but this doesn’t weigh it down, plus, it smells great.
Hand cream vanilla orange peel Dhs95 Grown Alchemist
With all the sanitiser I’ve been using, this hand cream has been a lifesaver. It’s lightweight and moisturises without being greasy. I tend to touch my hair quite a lot and finding a good hand cream that doesn’t transfer can be quite tricky.
CRYOpress Dhs750 001 Skincare
Inspired by cryotherapy, this is an ice massage roller that is great for lymphatic drainage and boosts your skin with oxygen and toxin drainage. I suffer from a lot of allergies and this helps. It comes with a flash serum that brightens my skin too.
Skin filter powder Dhs225 The Nue Co.
Pro supreme restructure firming boosting cream Dhs405 FaceGym
I’m a complete skincare junkie and have come to realise that good skin starts from within. This brand is organic and sustainable. I started using it a while ago and will soon be launching it at The Edit because it’s so effective.
This tool changed my skincare routine. It delivers electrical pulses to my face to stimulate the muscles and the results I’ve seen have been incredible. It feels a bit uncomfortable initially but is easy to use once you get the hang of it.
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This night cream is great for dry and sensitive skin. It works overnight to unleash potent ingredients and stimulate cellular renewal, so you wake up every morning with plump, hydrated and bright skin.
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Wellness Haven at Saray Spa. Renew for the journey ahead.
A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is a haven for health and wellness, where ancient healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to give business travelers, locals and spa connoisseurs, a reviving, and tranquil experience. The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two Hammam Rooms, two exclusive Luxury Spa Suites and serene indoor relaxation areas. Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian body rituals and hammams, or benefit from hydrating facial to antiaging treatments. Open daily from 10am – 10pm, book your serene escape in the heart of Downtown Dubai.
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai |
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T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com
C O M P I L E D BY: O L I V I A M O R R I S
AM TO PM BEAUTY
Anna Foster, founder of E.L.V. DENIM – the only denim brand globally to use 100 per cent upcycled denim – talks us through her sustainable beauty routine Talk us through your morning routine. I wake up and have a cup of hot water. I used to have lemon in there, but my dentist explained that the acid damages the enamel so now it’s plain, but I love how cleansing it is. I then have a mad 30 minutes getting the kids ready for school, and then I have 15 minutes to get ready. I use the Dr. Barbara Sturm Body Brush to briskly exfoliate my body before I shower. Then I double cleanse with Botane Whipped cleanser, apply Triple Level Hyaluronic Serum by Irene Forte followed by Botane Peptide Cream
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and my essential Elequra Eye Architecture. I use Ameliorate Transforming Body lotion which has literally transformed my skin! And how about your evening routine? As soon as I get in from work, I double cleanse again and use the Trinity facial toning device by NuFace. For me cleansing the day away instantly allows the products to work for the maximum time possible. Then I apply Albiva Advanced repair brightening serum followed by Macrene Actives High-performance cream and of course my Elequra eye cream. What are your go-to skincare products? I
am completely guided by my friends who are experts in this space. My guru is Andrea Pfeffer who is launching Salon C Stella in April and she introduced me to Botane and Elequara. I more recently was introduced to Jessica from Shen Beauty in Brooklyn, who has completely got me hooked on Irene Forte Skincare. All ingredients are grown on their own land from Rocco de Forte Hotels, all packaging both primary and secondary (glass made in Italy, boxes made in Italy from recycled materials) are sustainable, and they are manufactured in
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Clockwise from top left: Whipped Cleanser Dhs250 Botane; Complexion Rescue Tinted Moisturiser SPF30 Dhs145 BareMinerals; Gypsy Cowboy Eau de Parfum Dhs672 St. Rose; ECM Advanced Repair Brightening Serum 30ml Dhs971 Albiva; Eye Love You Mascara Dhs270 Westman Atelier; Trinity Facial Toning Device Dhs1,500 NuFace available at namshi.ae
Italy. So it is not just the ingredients that have no carbon footprint, and not to mention she has just undergone clinical testing on all products and has repackaged to make them all refillable. Are you a fan of masks? Yes – I love them! But I avoid disposable sheet masks, only using masks in a jar – Masquerase by Synergie who is a clean science brand or Esse cream mask. How would you describe your approach to makeup? Pretty natural and I prefer to just use skin enhancers. My favourite is the Vi-
tal skin foundation stick by Gucci Westman and I also use her mascara. What can always be found in your makeup bag? Bare Minerals tinted SPF30 – I was completely ignorant of how essential this is for your skin, even in the winter. But I am now committed. Let’s talk fragrance. What are you loving at the moment? I am obsessed with Gypsy Cowboy by St. Rose. The founder Belinda uses an upcycled rose concentrate which is the process of extracting olfactive components from once distilled petals rather
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than merely discarding them. Just to put this into context, it takes 4,500kg of fresh petals to make 1g of essential oil. How do you choose your evening fragrance? I am afraid I am a one fragrance girl – complete loyalty. Talk us through your hair routine. I only use Rahua, which is completely non-toxic, clean formulas and they sell refills. What is the most unusual item in your makeup bag? Perhaps Origins Original Skin pore perfecting cooling primer with Willowherb – the cold primer tightens pores. I love it!
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Extraordinary Design Nancy Hood, Chief Marketing Officer of 1stDibs on creating the leading online marketplace for extraordinary design
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WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH
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What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? The first thing I do every morning, even before coffee is walk my dogs, Tallulah and Scout in my Brooklyn neighbourhood. This gives me time to think about the day ahead and what I want to accomplish. What is at the heart of 1stDibs’ DNA as a brand and how has the brand evolved over the years? 1stDibs as a brand was launched with the tagline ‘The Most Beautiful Things on Earth’ and that is still our North Star. Then and today, 1stDibs has been uniting design devotees with their hearts’ desire, placing exquisite objects in the hands of those who treasure them most. We began as a listing site, which connected people with the dealers and incredible finds of Paris’ famous Marché aux Puces, without having to get on a plane. Over the course of 21 years, we have evolved into an e-commerce marketplace for extraordinary designs that encompasses vintage, antique and contemporary furniture, home décor, fine jewellery, watches, art, fashion and
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more. We seek out the dealers, gallerists and makers who bring us the most extraordinary and storied pieces from more than 600 cities around the world. This, and the sense of discovery and joy it brings our customers, sets us apart. How does the brand incorporate its love for one-of-a-kind pieces and antiques into this business? There is a romance that imbues pieces from the past. The essence of the time in which it was created, its origins and patina, the role it played in its owners’ lives. Then eventually there is a story of how the pieces found their way to a seller on 1stDibs and their journey to its new home. It’s the story of why it mattered and still matters to date. We know our customers cherish and share these stories and, in that way, the history of a piece lives on for the next generations. One-of-a-kind designs, whether created centuries ago or weeks ago, represent the craftsmanship, passion and communities that are central to our brand. Knowing that you own a painting or necklace or a chair that started as someone’s dream, was made by a human hand, in one moment in time and in one unique place, brings our customers joy and adds meaning to the purchase. By offering a wealth of such meaningful items on the platform, we have always been proud to carry this heritage forward. What is the most complex part of the marketplace business when it comes to furniture? The coordination of shipping is quite complex given we are a marketplace, and our sellers and buyers are all over the world, which also means we work with many shipping companies. The average distance between our buyers and sellers is over 2,000 miles. Which pieces consistently drive sales and are there any pieces that can go up in value over time? We work with over 4,200 sellers from all over the world to market their products to global consumers and interior designers. Those sellers make beautiful and often one-of-akind pieces in the areas of furnishings ranging from vintage to new and bespoke art, jewellery and fashion. For fashion some of the pieces that stand out and do well include the Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags, the Cartier Love collection consisting of the bracelets and rings, the Cartier Trinity ring and the Tank Française watch, the Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra necklace, the Patek Philippe Calatrava watch and art deco jewellery. The new and custom pieces are the Ultrafragola mirror by Ettore Sottsass and the Roly Poly armchair by Faye Toogood. Another vintage standout piece is Isamu Nogushi’s Akari light sculpture, which people seem to adore, as well as the Barcelona Chair designed by Mies Van der Rohe and Lilly Reich, Eero, Saarinen’s Pedestal Table and the Eames Lounge Chair and Ottoman. What is, personally, your most treasured furniture piece for any home? The kitchen table, with family around it as some of the most cherished memories happens there. How has social media helped build the brand and do you connect directly with clients through this platform? Through our social platforms, we invite our audience into the world of 1stDibs through layered content that highlights the richness and many facets of the brand. On social, we engage with the design community, with those passionate about design and we celebrate our sellers. Whether it’s someone discovering a piece they love on Pinterest, or reading an editorial piece on our NFT artists, or simply dreaming about how they might design their own home, ultimately social media at 1stDibs is an important way we can connect with the customer and with future customers. We also do have clients that contact us through social media for pieces varying from a 19th century Neoclassic Italian console to a 46-carat aquamarine ring, all these items result in sales. This is The Sustainability Issue – what does it mean to you? Sustainability is so important to our world, today and for future generations. 1stDibs contributes to this in several ways by buying furniture, decor, jewellery and fashion that has been passed down and celebrates the past and reframes it in a modern way, while eliminating the need to create more. Buying an object that is beautifully designed and of high quality, new or old, adds things that last to the world, things that
are passed down and treasured for years. This is the opposite of fast fashion and home design as the pieces on 1stDibs are not destined for landfill. It’s a marketplace that is inherently sustainable from an economic and social point of view as we are bringing together buyers and sellers and allowing small businesses to access a wide range of customers all over the world. This is somehow the only way they can survive and the most sustainable way to decorate your home is with vintage and antique furniture, which are easy to refinish if you desire.
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DOING
Implementing sustainable practices into everyday life has become an absolute essential. Some incredible women we know tell us how they’re implementing sustainability on a micro and macro level
ELLE HUTCHINSON FOUNDER OF POSTURE @thisisposture_ What does sustainability mean to you? Sustainability for me is the aim to meet your own needs without aggregating added stress to the environment. I am a firm believer that individual commitment to small changes can have a snowball effect that benefits our quality of life. What steps are you taking to ensure you are living a more sustainable life? At POSTURE we take sustainability very seriously. We don’t use plastic, all of our bags are reusable and we use glass bottles and reusable straws. Our pilates mats and equipment by RumiEarth are made from recycled material and our grip socks are made from organic materials. We are slowly introducing new elements to the studio to guarantee we play our part in sustainability. We also created a chemical-free disinfectant spray to clean the machines.
AMY WILKINSONLOUGH FOUNDER OF PROJECT BYOUTY @projectbyouty What does sustainability mean to you? Essentially sustainability to me means a better planet for my kids and my kids’ kids – we have an obligation to leave it better than the way we found it. What steps are you taking to ensure you are living a more sustainable life? There are a few key steps I take to ensure I am living a more sustainable life, these include: recycling is the absolute rule in my house (as it should be in every house); I do a lot of upcycling of packaging, candles, tissue paper and the like; I avoid fast fashion and ensure every fashion purchase I make is considered. However, like many, I have a long way to go and absolutely recognize there is so much more to do and learn. What is important is that we all just start, because genuinely it is the smallest of things that will help us make the biggest of impacts.
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AYA AHMAD FOUNDER OF FYNE JEWELLERY @fynejewellery What does sustainability mean to you? At its core, sustainability is about meeting the growing global population’s needs with our limited supply of non-renewable resources. To me, it’s about leading a lifestyle that involves empathy, discipline, self-awareness, and the curiosity to learn and make improvements. It requires a mindful approach to nature, people, and the planet for the survival of our present and future generations. What steps are you taking to ensure you are living a more sustainable life? I remember building certain ‘sustainable’ habits from an early age: Growing up in
Antwerp, Belgium, it was mandatory to recycle and separate our household waste across five categories before having it collected. And coming from a family of seven, my parents always made sure we were mindful of our water and energy consumption at home. After starting to work on my company, Fyne, I began assessing how I could make further improvements to my lifestyle. I researched the ways where I could reduce waste or stop consuming certain products altogether. My initial focus was beauty and hygiene products: For example, I swapped out disposable makeup wipes for re-usable bamboo pads and began using reusable menstrual underwear and cups. I stopped shopping from fast fashion brands and now I prefer to invest in a few high quality, timeless pieces. I always ask myself: “Will I wear this more than 15 times?” If the answer is yes, it has a place in my wardrobe. I also love supporting small sustainable and ethical businesses and make sure to research the companies I choose to support. On holiday, I prefer to stay at eco-resorts (if available), eat at farm-to-table restaurants and I always use reef-safe sunscreen. This year, my plan is to learn how to compost at home and start growing my own small herb and vegetable garden. I really believe that sustainability is a journey and setting small actionable goals is the best way to build impactful habits.
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DANA AL KHOBAIZI FOUNDER OF STATE OF MIND @som.active
C O M P I L E D BY: O L I V I A M O R R I S
RUMANA NAZIM FOUNDER OF THE EDIT @theeditdubai What does sustainability mean to you? Sustainability used to be an esoteric term that few understood and even fewer implemented; however, with an increase in initiatives by people, companies and institutions, it is becoming more widely understood and implemented. In my opinion, when it comes to fashion, clothes should not be perceived as disposable. We should acquire pieces we enjoy wearing and that are built to last so they have added value and can be used in a versatile manner with other pieces in our wardrobes. Another aspect of sustainability which is close to my heart is the emphasis on our direct and indirect communities from a social standpoint. I ensure that the people and brands we interact with are treated fairly, ethically and with respect and I try to work with as many women as I can across all social and economic backgrounds. What steps are you taking to ensure you are living a more sustainable life? In terms of the Edit, I work exclusively with sustainable brands. I like to learn as much as possible about their sustainable practices so I can pass the information on to my customers, enabling them to make more informed decisions. More and more, I hear my
customers say sustainability is increasingly important to them. In terms of my personal shopping habits, I do my research and invest in quality pieces that last. Where possible, I wear items many times over, often combining them in new ways or styling the same item differently to create new looks.
ANNA FOSTER FOUNDER OF E.L.V. DENIM @elvdenim What does sustainability mean to you? As an environmentally conscious designer, I feel that until we use all the material that currently exists in the world, brands should really think twice before creating new virgin fibres. What steps are you taking to ensure you are living a more sustainable life? I believe that a sustainable life means thinking before consuming. Whether it’s deciding if that new piece of clothing is essential or being made consciously, or if that fruit has been grown locally or imported from abroad. All this does take time and effort, but that is what we all should be doing until it comes naturally. I also would suggest to try and look behind the brand messaging, as consumers we have a responsibility to check what we are being told.
What does sustainability mean to you? Sustainability is considering every action, and its consequences on the planet, society, and economy. I have a very conscious and thoughtful way of living, with the future generation in mind. What steps are you taking to ensure you are living a more sustainable life? I practice mindfulness throughout my daily life and I often wonder and ask myself, what am I doing to leave a positive impact on the planet and prepare for the next generation to pick up and lead with? I am conscious of even the smallest actions and their long-term effects and I try my best to lead a life of mindful actions, whether it’s in the way I consume and output energy, the products I use, the vegetarian food that I eat, being aware of my carbon footprint, etc. This way of living isn’t just on a personal scale, it’s embedded within my business too and this all feels like the most natural to me in my contribution to sustainability and our planet.
RASHI SETHI & NIDHI SETHI FOUNDERS OF SKIN STORY @skinstoryme What does sustainability mean to you? There are many different definitions of what sustainability looks like, to us the discussion on the environment calls for a strong commitment by brands. Globally, as well as in the Middle East, we have seen a rise of naturally inspired products, exploring organic ingredients and sustainably produced materials. Skin Story holds sustainability in the heart of our entire brand by ensuring minimal wastage during the manufacturing process and outsourcing our sustainable packaging which is fully aluminium versus using plastic. What steps are you taking to ensure you are living a more sustainable life? Our everyday behaviours have shifted to be more sustainably conscious; we’ve completely changed the way we consume products. We shifted to using shampoo bars vs bottles, eliminating plastic and being more mindful of what we consume. We are a sustainably centric brand, and we strive to make environmentally conscious products. Our mission when creating Skin Story was always to deliver the highest quality of products that will serve our customers for years to come.
OUR BIT F E AT U R E
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A Second Life Perfect, preloved new additions WORDS & STYLING: AMY SESSIONS
From left: Cassina Zigzag Chair Dhs6,000 The Odd Piece; Adjustable Daybed Sofa in Beige Leather with Pillow Dhs14,425 Smala by Ligne Roset 1stdibs.com; 90’s Postmodern Cantilevered Side Table Dhs2,940 K. Dahl 1stdibs.com; Mantle Vessels Vase-Olivin Dhs1,900 The Odd Piece
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Above: (left) ‘Lido’ Table Lamp Dhs3,617 Peill & Putzler 1stdibs.com; (right) Togo Corner Seat Dhs11,515 Michel Ducaroy for Ligne Roset 1stdibs.com
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Investing in bespoke furniture is a smart approach to sustainability. We spoke to Maison Roca on design and driving a business forward in the interior space
WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
What do your first 30 mins of the day look like, your morning routine? My alarm is set for 6am daily apart from the weekend where I try to indulge in a lie in for as long as I can before the kids wake me. One of the first things I usually do is check the Instagram page for any messages that may have come in over night. I’m trying to break this habit as I know it’s counter productive and it’s much more beneficial to set proper working and rest times, but as a new small business I find myself replying to clients’ questions and requests at random hours of the day. I also have to get the kids and myself ready for the school run. So mornings are a very busy time of the day. Once home I do some exercise a few times a week as I feel so much better keeping my body and mind energized. That sets me up for the rest of the day dealing with client enquiries, visiting suppliers or designing. What is at the heart of Maison Roca’s DNA as a brand? The key value I set for the company is that all of our tables should be functional yet beautiful in form. Everything we make is bespoke and made to order, so clients can specify which piece of stone they prefer, the sizes and also have an input on design. All this results in some really beautiful and unique pieces, that will last a lifetime. Marble has been popular throughout the ages, but with our designs I feel we are helping make it current and cool again. What ignited the idea to branch into furniture design, marble specifically? Honestly it was a result of a personal struggle to find quality modern stone pieces for my own home. I searched and searched for something perfect in the stores and just could not find anything. At the time travertine was making a come back but none of the high streets were stocking anything modern and fresh in this fab stone. I had very clear ideas of what I wanted and nothing was cutting it. It’s now easier to
find, but design and size is still very restricted when buying off the shelf. What has been the biggest hurdle since launching and how did you overcome it? I think the biggest hurdle has been stone and supplier quality. You can find the most incredible slab of marble but when you start working with it the natural weak lines may cause issues, also the logistics of moving large pieces of stone carefully without causing any damage is a tricky business. I’m very grateful to my suppliers who take such great care and do their absolute best to deliver perfect pieces. It’s all trial and error and we are learning every day what works and what doesn’t, hopefully we put what we learn into practice and are improving all the time. What’s your favourite piece to date and why? There are so many to choose from. I love it when a client is as passionate about the stone as I am, and they give me a little creative license to create something different and really celebrate the stone, it doesn’t need to be a complicated design, simple is sometimes better but working with what nature has given us and maximizing the beauty in the design is what I love. If I had to choose just one piece it would be a console we made with a beautiful green and white cloudy onyx, it’s a simple piece but so striking because of the stone. How do you think last year affected the growth in popularity of people investing into bespoke pieces for their homes and do you see this approach as more sustainable? So many people during the pandemic have spent so much time in their homes, I really feel they want to make the most of their space and surroundings. We have spent so much time within 4 walls that the space needs to work on many different levels. For work, relaxation and with the hope of entertaining again. The mass produced items are not special enough anymore. The fact people are really investing and taking personal
Real Rocks LIFESTYLE
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“Everything we make is bespoke and made to order, so clients interest in their homes means that these pieces will be loved and cherished for generations, making them a more sustainable investment. This obviously has a huge knock on effect as far as fast fashion/interiors goes which is unsustainable not to mention wasteful, hopefully we are carving the way to a more sustainable and less wasteful world. The price point is accessible – was this a key factor from the outset? I absolutely wanted our tables to be accessible for all. One of our biggest markets is the young trendy career women and men who want a bespoke home, that is current and luxurious but doesn’t have the price tag of some of the cult brands. It’s a constant battle to keep the prices as affordable as possible, especially with rising transportation costs, for marbles to be imported and also delivery fees. We currently don’t have a showroom which contributes to keeping our costs down, although I’d love a place to showcase our work one day as touching the stone is just as enjoyable as looking at it. Do you have any mentors or guides and
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how does this help navigate the right path? I haven’t had any mentors but the online community of incredible female entrepreneurs is always a huge inspiration to me. The willingness to help each other is truly something that has pleasantly surprised me and I’m so happy to have been welcomed in and proud to be part of it. There are some incredible brands that are really championing other ladies’ businesses and this is just so wonderful to see. Where do you source your marble from and how challenging was it to refine this process? We are always finding new sources and I love nothing more than searching the stone yards for that perfect slab, it’s like gem shopping. We have our own in house stones but for some projects we outsource, it’s a real learning curve to find the best panda marble or the best Arabascato. The marble comes from all over the world, Greece, Italy, Turkey, China, but the quality varies significantly, so finding the most beautiful stone and the best quality isn’t always the easiest task.
As a young brand, what is your approach to scaling the business? This is something I’m battling with, I know that to scale the business a website is very important and will be a game changer as clients will be able to easily see stone options, prices and the made to order table collection. I’m excited about the website that we are working on but the real struggle is finding the time to devote to getting it set up without impacting the day to day running of the business. Which designs have been most popular to date and was this as you predicted? Our ATUA table has been one of the most requested tables. I think this table in particular because it’s very simple and lets the stone do the talking. Yet it’s a very elegant table and compliments most decor types. I always think the bold designs will be popular as that’s instinctively what I’m drawn to, but that’s not always the case. How do you approach client engagement and retention? I’m very proactive when it comes to any engagement on the Instagram page,
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can specify which piece of stone they prefer, the sizes and also have an input on design.” son Roca? Social media has been paramount to the growth of Maison Roca, Instagram is currently the only channel we work with, although the website is coming soon! I have been so surprised about how diverse the client range is, and love being able to reach all ages and characters through this channel. I think there is a real connection that all Instagram users have and that’s ultimately a love of seeing beautiful or interesting images, and if our grid inspires people to switch up their interiors then that’s a big plus. It’s also pushed us to think about what people want to see, if photos work better or reels, all the likes, comments and shares really have I quite enjoy playing around with those but such an impact on the growth of the business I’m still a novice and trying to find the right and it’s so appreciated. I always try to recipformula of adding new content often but rocate likes, reply to comments and share any trying not to bore people is a balancing act. pictures clients may post. We also have done a couple of giveaways when we have reached What advice would you give to your younga milestone. We have given some beautiful er self, starting out? I think the one thing travertine candle holders and also when we I would let my younger self know is that reached 1k followers we gave an ARCO side things always work out for the best, no mattable away in travertine. I think it’s really imter how rocky the road is to get there. Trust your instincts. Pick yourself up after knock portant to acknowledge and say thank you to all the people who take time to follow our backs and just keep going. The only successful businesses are the resilient ones, the journey and are there supporting us every day. ones that pivot and are open to changing How has social media affected building Mai-
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direction if that’s what is needed. Things also don’t happen over night, it’s easy to get obsessed by the number of followers you have, but it’s better to have 1k followers that are really interested in your brand than 100k followers who pay no attention to what you are doing at all. This is The Sustainability Issue – how are you supporting a more sustainable approach to life both professionally and personally? Professionally speaking, marble is known as one of the most sustainable materials, although it is finite there is so much supply it will out last any demand, having said that I cannot bear waste and we have been looking into ways to utilize scrap pieces of the stone we use. Personally, we eat a mainly plant based diet at home. I have been on and off vegetarian for the last 20 years and although we do eat meat occasionally I am very aware how much better my mind and body feels on a fully plant based diet. I also love how my kids come home from school spurring me on to be more sustainability aware.
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3/1/22 2:53 PM
WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS
Chef Akmal Anuar has remained at the top of the Dubai F&B game for over a decade. Having recently launched his latest concept 11 Woodfire, he discusses with us how he’s sustained a successful career
Talk us through your career. My career started in Singapore as Head chef of Iggy’s restaurant, globally known for being the best Asian restaurant that was ranked 26th in the world’s 50 best awards in 2012. After that, I moved to Dubai in late 2013 and started a new venture with Richard Sandoval Hospitality in Starwood. Two years after that I opened 3fils with 2 partners in late 2016 until 2020. In 2020 I launched my first individual project, White Rice Co which had the most disastrous beginnings due to the pandemic. After a painfully hard year, I now have restaurants in Sharjah with Shurooq Investments, Goldfish Sushi Yakitori, a joint venture with Sunset Hospitality and lastly the sensation – 11 Woodfire. 11 Woodfire is my latest project with Atelier House Hospitality that opened its doors in January 2022. Where does your love for food come from? I was brought up in a family where food was the centre of our lives. My parents were hawkers and they owned a catering service company. They worked hard their whole lives, I witnesses their passion for business and food and was lucky enough to support them as a teenager. My mum is the most amazing chef, I have never seen her use any scaled or modern utensils, a true gangster in her field. I got that and a lot from her. What brought you to Dubai? Like every expat, we moved to Dubai to discover new opportunities. We came for a life-changing chapter. The series of stages of my life in Dubai has had its fair shares of ups and downs, either way, I always strive to be positive and do better. Talk us through the concept of 11 Woodfire. 11 Woodfire is a restaurant that serves fresh, top-quality ingredients that are cooked over a woodfire. We keep everything natural and as simple as possible by keeping our wastage low and being responsible about the planet. Woodfire cooking dates way back when humankind first discovered cooking. This type of cooking needs patience and intuition. I’m very thrilled to be able to introduce this concept to the city I call home, Dubai. You have been a key player in the F&B industry in Dubai over the years. How do you sustain such a high level of quality and stay at the top of your game? Hard work and sincerity is the key. Nothing else tops that. What are the hero dishes at 11 Woodfire? I’ve always been a huge fan of seafood and my all-time favourite has to be whole French turbot. It’s a delicious flatfish that doesn’t have scales and it can be very difficult to cook. When the fish is super fresh, the skin produces lots of gelatin and collagen which makes it tricky to grill, so we thoroughly clean the exteriors and hang dry it in the chiller to partially dry it for 2-3 days depending on size and age. This process also
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helps to soften and relax the meat before it gets into the heat. At 11 Woodfire we have created a special tool that we fit the turbot into before grilling, which really helps the cooking process. What sets the F&B industry in Dubai apart from the rest of the world? Dubai is multicultural and diversified, it is eclectic and never sleeps. This city has welcomed innovation and ideas that has kept everyone on their toes. This is what I think sets Dubai apart from everyone else. city that doesn’t sleeps. New ventures and ideas pops up constantly. Keeps us on our toes. New blood and energy all the time.
“Hard work and sincerity are the key. Nothing else tops that.” You’ve only been open for less than two months and have already attracted royalty to the restaurant. What does this recognition feel like? Super honoured and blessed. The work is recognized and that is a testament. What are the hurdles you’ve experienced throughout your career? Too many hurdles to mention, some of which include; building a professional culture, finding loyalty is one crucial element of running a successful restaurant. Helping people believe they are working for something that is worth their time and life. What have been the milestones? I’ve always run one restaurant at a time, but in 2021 alone I opened three restaurants and in 2022 with 11 Woodfire’s over 200 seats is the next challenge for me. A part of my life where I am going through hustle life again. The work and dream never stop. More to come soon. What’s next for 11 Woodfire in 2022? My focus at the moment is 11 Woodfire, it’s a passion project of mine and I am really excited to have brought it to life in Dubai. This spring, starting in March and lasting till around May, I have some exciting new openings in New York and KSA, which I am thoroughly looking forward to getting stuck into. 2022 is going to be very busy and hopefully filled with successes and of course, lots of hard work!
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C O M P I L E D BY: O L I V I A M O R R I S
The Wanderlust An exceptional edit of the best luxury resorts doing their bit to help the planet 126 emirateswoman.com
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Below: 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge, New York City, USA; Habitas, Namibia; Right: Soneva Kiri, Thailand; Previous pages: Amanyara, Turks & Caicos Islands Soneva Kiri – Thailand
Located on the secluded island of Koh Kood in Thailand, Soneva Kiri is committed to bringing its guests the very best of what ecoluxury has to offer. Nestled in the lush, thick rainforest of the island amongst some of the best beaches you’ll find in Thailand, this resort is ultra-exclusive comprising of 34 one to six-bedroom luxury villas. Globally all Soneva resorts have a strong commitment to sustainable practices but at Soneva Kiri in particular, the resort aims to protect the physical characteristics, geological features and native vegetation of the area, as well as committing to the reforestation of the local surroundings and as part of the Soneva Foundation, Soneva is on a mission to reintroduce Oriental pied hornbills to Koh Kood, Soneva Kiri’s home island. The species had been wiped out on the island due to over-hunting and loss of habitat. The resort also has an Eco-Den for younger guests where they can be cared for and entertained while educating them about the importance of the environment. soneva.com/resorts/soneva-kiri Al Maha, a Luxury Collection Desert Resort & Spa – Dubai, UAE
Experience the true luxury of what Arabia has to offer at Al Maha, a Luxury Collection Desert Resort & Spa. Set amongst a wildlife reserve in the Dubai desert, a stay at this hotel is nothing short of spectacular. Offering complete tranquillity and peace in its secluded setting, this exclusive resort offers some of the most stunning desert views of dunes and the Hajar Mountain massif. Complete with 42 suites all with private pools, the resort offers complete tranquillity and peace in the setting of the stunning
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desert sand dunes. Al Maha also ensures to make sustainability a top priority, using recycled water, LED lighting, eco-conscious materials and solar panels. marriott.com/en-us/hotels/ dxbam-al-maha-a-luxurycollection-desert-resort-andspa-dubai/overview/ 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge – New York City, USA
Sustainability is a core value of luxury group 1 Hotels. The group’s New York City luxury haven, 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge, offers some of the best views of the Manhattan skyline. Not only is this hotel impressive in archi-
tecture and ambience, but every aspect of sustainability has also been thought of throughout the design process. From working with local artists for its design, to using reclaimed materials right from the heart of Brooklyn to implementing efficient energy systems, the 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge is a true pioneer in eco-luxury. 1hotels.com/brooklyn-bridge Amanyara – Turks & Caicos Islands
Situated on the west side of the Turks & Caicos Providenciales Island, Amanyara is a secluded resort offering nothing short of five-star luxury. Comprising of an array of pavilions and villas – some with private pools – for guests to reside in, each individual structure offers optimum privacy for all. Amanyara, as well as Aman Group on a global scale, has a strong manifesto to support sustainability in all forms. The resort ensures the preservation of local ecosystems, commitment to using energy-efficient systems, eliminating single-use plastic, the growing of their own organic produce and much more. aman.com/resorts/amanyara
IMAGES: SUPPLIED
Habitas – Namibia
Left: Al Maha, a Luxury Collection Desert Resort & Spa, Dubai, UAE
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Set amongst 50,000 hectares of nature and wildlife in Namibia, a stay at Habitas offers an unforgettable experience. Keeping understated luxury in mind, each room is seamlessly integrated into the natural environment of the resort’s surroundings and is made only from natural materials complete with custom-made furnishings and local crafts. The resort celebrates sustainability through a number of initiatives including wildlife conservation, low-impact footprint, using local design and also giving back through education and employment to the local community. ourhabitas.com/namibia
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WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH
New
Steven Bishop, Director of Operations at RAK Leisure
Heights
discusses sustaining the beauty of nature 1484 meters above sea level at 1484 Puro
“We also have a common belief and ethos that it is our duty to ensure we protect these wonderful assets and the natural beauty of Jebel Jais.”
What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? I start my day with a cup of English Breakfast tea to get my mind and body on track for the day ahead. I then read the previous day’s operations reports and ensure that the necessary issues have been addressed in the appropriate manner. Following that, I check the social media channels and begin final preparations for any upcoming meetings or visits that I or the team have scheduled for the day. Can you tell us more about the area and how 1484 was realized? 1484 is part of a wider master plan for the activation of the Jebel Jais mountains, the project was developed and delivered between RAK Leisure and RAK TDA to deliver not only a unique but quality-driven restaurant that adds further value to the existing adventurebased activities. The name 1484 comes from the fact that the restaurant is 1484m above sea level. Is it a complex task to keep the restaurant and area in optimal condition against the elements at this level? Due to the location, it takes a lot of daily and future planning to ensure that the restaurant is kept at its optimal operating capacity. There are many other partners and unsung heroes behind the scenes who play a vital part in the overall success of the restaurant and without them, it would simply not be able to function. We also have a common belief and ethos that it is our duty to ensure we protect these wonderful assets and the natural beauty of Jebel Jais. You’ve recently launched The View by 1484. Tell us more about it and how have you implemented sustainable measures throughout this facility? The view is a lounge area that is more focused on the beverage offerings with both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages along with a small grab-and-go menu catered by 1484. It has a 360-degree view of the mountains, is fully open-air and only operates from September to May. This location is the perfect way to spend a few hours relaxing, and can cater for private events/parties in totally unique surroundings. The building and furniture are made out of fully recycled shipping containers and wooden pallets and all our packaging is fully biodegradable. The menu is focused on health and nutrition – was this the goal from the outset and how does this serve your clients? It’s a balanced menu of-
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fering a selection of international dishes that cater to all. From healthy options to sweet tooth options plus Vegetarian and Vegan dishes, there are countless dishes to choose from. There is also an emphasis on using locally sourced produce which is highlighted by the olive oil, honey and olives which are all grown and farmed in the Jebel Jais mountains. Can you tell us more about implementing Yoga sessions as an offering and how this supports sustaining the balance and beauty of nature within the area? Yoga sessions are one of the many activities that are available on Jebel Jais with its stunning views, cooler climate and spectacular sunrise or sunset. This venue ensures you get out of the usual gym and it allows you to be at one with nature followed by a healthy breakfast. How would you describe 1484 by Puro and why should anyone visit who has not to date? There are so many words that could describe the restaurant and location. I would say that the overall experience is truly “one of a kind” in this region. For those who visit, it’s the perfect escape from the daily hustle and bustle of everyday life, along with a gorgeous view that adds to the location. What’s the most beautiful time to visit? The most beautiful time is watching the sun fall over the Hajar Mountains, which is absolutely spectacular. This is The Sustainability Issue – how are you personally and professional contributing to a more sustainable way of living? Sustainability is a key driver for not only the restaurant but the Emirate as a whole. I am fortunate to be able to drive the eco-conscious measures alongside our partners. By April 2022, we will remove all single-use plastic from the operations and all our packaging/paper will be environmentally friendly using PLA and biodegradable products. We will work with the waste management agency to create recycling centres not just for our operations but for any current or future operators that are based on the mountain. A systematic segregation of waste material takes place with food composters for farmers to use. Additionally, we will continue to source locally grown produce for our menus, thereby helping local businesses within the UAE and last but not least remove the usage of plastic water bottles from the operations and move to filtered and bottled water.
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THE DIRECTORY
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WORDS: AMY SESSIONS
Symmetry 19 leather shoulder bag Dhs6,610 Savette
THE LIFER
The foundation of each Savette piece is a timeless, sophisticated silhouette, rendered in exceptional Italian leather, making it a smart investment
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