beauty/chanel
Notes
© 1997 CHANEL. © ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION
ON THE SCENT
Sheldrake Christopher Christopher Sheldrake with Elizabeth
he quintessential English gent, Christopher Sheldrake is upholding the tradition and prestige of Chanel’s fragrance house. And as the right hand man to famous nose Jacques Polges, he stands firm in his role as perfumer and director of research and development for Chanel. Working to safeguard the formula of the original Chanel N° 5, he is also an integral part of the evolution of the fashion house’s fragrances. Here he divulges his inner most thoughts about the scent...
character much like Gabrielle Chanel and this is reflected in the fragrance.
WHAT IS YOUR FIRST MEMORY OF SCENT?
It has been around for 90 years and throughout all this time none of the original ingredients have been changed or have gone out of fashion. Chanel's perfumers have to safeguard the fragrance and its formula so it remains in its original state. Right down to picking the raw ingredients from the jasmine fields in Grasse, France, ensures the perfume remains the same.
WHAT DO YOU COUNT AMONG YOUR INSPIRATION?
Perfumers are inspired by many different things; by new places, meeting people or even a raw ingredient. In terms of my own inspiration I get myself in the zone to create by listening to Mozart or even Queen. WHAT IS YOUR PHILOSOPHY ON WHY PEOPLE WEAR PERFUME?
We wear perfume to express ourselves and we choose a particular perfume to express how we feel. It gives us an inner confidence and is an extension of us. Often when you like somebody, you like the way they smell. The sense of smell is extraordinary. WHO IS THE CHANEL N° 5 WOMAN?
I envisage her to be very feminine and elegant with lots of taste. Yet, she has a strength of 196
EMIRATES WOMAN
DECEMBER 2011
Ever since the creation stages, Coco Chanel said: “I want to create a perfume for women that smells of women.” Previously, all fragrances had focused on the scent of a particular rose or ingredient. Coco dared to be different and the result was a complex formula using an abundance of ingredients.
ts The table of scen
IN YOUR OPINION, WHY IS CHANEL N° 5 SUCH A SUCCESSFUL PERFUME?
WHAT SETS CHANEL N° 5 APART FROM ITS CONTEMPORARIES?
Our tastes have changed over the years. Fashion and perfume I believe are directly related and as fashions change so does fragrance. In the 1980s there was a tendency towards strong perfume, so we created the eau de parfum with the introduction of vanilla and sandalwood. The success of this fragrance is dependent upon it having a recognisable character. HOW HAS THE FRAGRANCE CHANGED WITH THE TIMES?
We created Eau Premiere in 2009. It is our modern version of the original N° 5. This
WHICH ARE YOUR THREE FAVOURITE INGREDIENTS TO CREATE WITH?
Jasmine from Grasse, as it has a sweetness almost akin to strawberries and a green tea note. Sandalwood for its feminine quality, it has a creaminess that lasts a very long time on the skin and amber notes like vanilla and oud that are warm and animalike. WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT SCENTS FROM THE MIIDDLE EAST?
I’ve always considered the Middle East to be the birthplace of perfumery – I love oud when it burns it creates a very warm and intense atmosphere. It is very unique. WHAT'S NEXT ON THE AGENDA?
To keep happy. I've always believed if you’re happy in your life it shows. I get most compliments when I’m content.
PHOTOGRAPHER JEAN-MARIE DEL MORAL CHANEL, © 1997 CHANEL. © ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION
I have a distinctive memory, and there are certain scents you never forget. I grew up in India and when I think of it, it takes me back to the market place with all the different spices. We used to head to the mountains in summertime and I can still recall the strength of the Eucalyptus.
WHAT WAS THE ORIGINAL INTENTION BEHIND THE PERFUME?
is the first time we rewrote the formula completely yet keeping the essential ingredients of the rose, jasmine, ylang ylang and sandalwood in the mix.