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HOTEL FOOD & DRINK

SALTMOORE – NORTH YORKSHIRE • KYLE CONNAUGHTON • YTRI – TRÆNA

CONTENTS ISSUE 51 078

STARTERS

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The Mansion

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Soolhaus

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Casa Bonavita

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Akira Back

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Mr Edison

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Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek Dallas © Studio Serena Eller

Canopy by Hilton Bangkok Sukhumvit Malta

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St Regis Rome

The Bellevue Hotel Philadelphia © Ali Harper

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MAIN COURSES 056

Seok

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Calluna

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Gwynne

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Mor

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Ytri Træna Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme Paris Saltmoore North Yorkshire Fidelity Hotel Cincinatti Carbis Bay Hotel Cornwall

Alma

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CONTENTS ISSUE 51 084

SERVICE Chef’s Table

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A Stitch in Time

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Unexpected Turns

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Priceless Prestige

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The TV personality and Michelin-starred chef behind Ristorante Locatelli at Amara shares his favourite food memories.

Ten years after opening SingleThread in Healdsburg, Kyle Connaughton reflects on the evolution of the farm-led hospitality concept and looks to the factors shaping his next decade. One year after opening Restaurant Gaa in Bangkok, Garima Arora became the first Indian female chef to be awarded a Michelin star. Now, she’s setting her sights on Kuala Lumpur. A natural affinity for service is the foundation of Daniele Quattromini’s career, and now he’s using the skill to both elevate and evolve the diverse F&B offering at Claridge’s. 064

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DINING 090

A Taste of Home

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Chefs worldwide are reinterpreting ancient fire techniques to enhance flavour, honour ingredients and create meaningful dining experiences.

Chef José Pizarro returns to his Spanish homeland for a collaboration with Iberostar to celebrate the abundance of Tenerife produce.

SIPPING

REGULARS

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Burning Bright

Entrée

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Drinks

125

Appetisers

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Spotlight

128

Signatures

103

Events

131

Aperitifs

107

Petits Fours

133

Cocktails

121

Washing-Up

146

Setting the (Mini) Bar

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Hotels are rethinking the traditional mini-bar, moving beyond familiar drinks and snacks to offer a more considered, profitable guest experience.

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ENTRÉE HOTEL FOOD & DRINK

SALTMOORE – NORTH YORKSHIRE • KYLE CONNAUGHTON • YTRI – TRÆNA

ON THE COVER Calluna at Saltmoore, North Yorkshire © Eva-Lili

People Power

ne of the most memorable experiences I have ever had

a project’s success. Cornwall is a region that’s dogged by

in a restaurant was in Rome a few years ago. It’s not

unemployment, for example, and it’s especially difficult

that the food was particularly special, or the setting

for young people to get work, so gaining experience at a

notably spectacular, instead, the dinner was shaped by the

restaurant like Mor becomes invaluable – given an opportunity

effortless ease of the waiter who looked after me. He was in his

too worthwhile to squander translates into care and attention

late-sixties, he explained, and had been doing the job – and

to detail for guests.

taking pride in it – for most of his adult life. The result was the

The same mentality is displayed at Alma, the restaurant

epitome of good service – precise but not pretentious, friendly

within Ytri in Træna, where an island collective actively

without being over familiar, exact but not rigid. The encounter

lobbied for the opening of the hotel to stabilise jobs for the

stayed with me because he was able to make a connection

local community. Many of them now work at the hotel, each

beyond the parameters of his role, and in doing so, set the

one dedicated to ensuring its growth for both personal and

benchmark for all future hospitality experiences therein.

professional reasons, which often results in going above and

The importance of staff selection isn’t lost on Daniele

beyond to exceed guest expectations.

Quattromini, who explains how recruitment is a central pillar

Guest satisfaction aside, investing in people also makes

of his new role as Director of Food & Beverage at Claridge’s.

sense from a business perspective. Michelin-starred chef

Yes, he says, highly trained, elite waiters exist, but if they’re

Kyle Connaughton admits that most of his senior leadership

unable to exercise empathy, that gets in the way of anticipating

team has been with him since he and his wife Katina launched

guests’ needs. It’s especially true at heritage hotels, where

SingleThread in Sonoma ten years ago. They’ve evolved

legacy customers return time and again over periods spanning

together, he says, and now he’s deployed some individuals

decades. As a result, Quattromini selects candidates based on

to oversee projects in other parts of the world, safe in the

personality, knowing the right people can be easily trained.

knowledge they’ll maintain his standards and never stray too

The bonus, of course, is that when staff feel valued, it

far from the company’s goals.

naturally feeds into their behaviour, and that means they can

The message then, is that trust, belief and empowerment

sell a concept simply by being themselves. That was certainly

of the workforce should never be overlooked as one of the

the case at Mor within Carbis Bay Hotel in Cornwall when I

key pillars of ensuring a concept’s success. The food could be

visited back during the dizzying heat of August. Executive

average and the restaurant space underwhelming, and still,

Chef Tom Anglesea explained that most staff are locals, and

every guest would remember an act of great service.

for many, it was their first job in hospitality. Even so, their warmth and enthusiasm made an immediate impact, making guests feel comfortable by enthusiastically regaling tales about the menu that made diners instantly want to tuck in. Hiring local staff comes with added dimensions, not least that they’re more likely to have a personal investment in

Abby Lowe • Deputy Editor

021

@SupperMag

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APPETISERS

ining across Asia Pacific (excluding

a growing desire for dining that tells the story

China) is losing its formality, replaced

of a destination.

by more casual dining spaces and dishes

Elsewhere, and there’s a spatial shift in motion,

with a deeper sense of place. This is the central

as dining moves beyond the traditional restaurant

finding of Marriott International’s Future of

model and leans towards more flexible, social-

Food 2027 report. Drawing on conversations

led spaces. Nearly half of the surveyed properties

with chefs, hospitality experts and influencers,

report a growing demand for casual venues such

as well as insight from Marriott properties across

as lounges, bars and outdoor settings, while

the region, the conclusion is that guests are

emerging concepts are embracing intimate 40-

seeking hyper-local experiences that prioritise

to 60-seat footprints with distinct identities.

authenticity and a relaxed atmosphere.

In Vietnam, 71% of surveyed properties report

“Across Asia Pacific, we’re witnessing a shift

growth in bar and lounge dining.

toward intimate, locally rooted experiences,

Perhaps unsurprisingly, the changing shape

where smaller, intentional spaces replace

of fine dining was also featured, with 58% of

traditional formal dining models,” explains Petr

properties reporting that on average, their fine-

Raba, Vice President of Food & Beverage, Marriott

dining meals consisted of five courses served in

Food For Thought Marriott International’s Future of Food 2027 report reveals the dining trends set to shape the industry across Asia Pacific in the coming year.

International, Asia Pacific excluding China.

under two hours. Singapore is among the fastest-

“Hotels are becoming cultural storytellers,

paced markets, with 85% of restaurants reporting

embedding regional talent, locally sourced

an average of 1.5 hours for each meal. In South

ingredients and authentic connection into every

Korea, one-in-five establishments has already

aspect of the dining experience to create spaces

reduced the number of courses served, while 30%

that feel distinctly of their place.”

of fine-dining restaurants in the Philippines has

The strongest trend highlighted by the report is

introduced à la carte menus. Australia sees both

the appetite for locally inspired signature dishes,

fewer courses and shorter service times, with

with 95% of surveyed properties revealing this as

the conversation shifting toward the creation of

the biggest driver in where diners decide to eat,

‘wow moments’ rather than course quantity.

a factor that now outweighs value for money.

Other discoveries of note include the

Hotels are responding by building menus around

importance of considered wellness-focused

ingredients rooted in their destinations, with

menus, with increasing emphasis placed on

four-in-five properties introducing produce such

dishes that promote health and longevity at

as Kampot sea salt in Cambodia-inspired menus

97% of properties; the rise of multi-sensory

and indigenous spices in Southeast Asian dishes.

menus, with texture considered as important as

The trend is mirrored on beverage menus, with

flavour; and the ever increasing popularity of a

nearly three-quarters reporting local ingredients

low- and no-alcohol beverage selection, crafted

appearing more frequently.

in response to guests seeking sophisticated

The uptick is particularly pronounced in India

alternatives without compromise. Proof that the

and Indonesia, where demand for local cuisine

movement is no longer a niche trend, instead

reaches 71% and 67% respectively, highlighting

now considered a hospitality mainstay.

025

APPETISERS

Puddings By The Glass Standing on one of the most storied plots in London – a site dating back to 1618 – boutique hotel The Shepherd Mayfair naturally looked to the history of its setting for conceptual inspiration. That thread is woven through every detail of the property, including its signature restaurant, Fayre, which focuses on quintessential and seasonal British produce in the creation of dishes such as Gloucester Old Spot pork chop and a beef Wellington pithivier. The past is traceable in every course at the venue, and in the case of the dessert menu, comes with added flair. Puddings by the Glass, as the concept is known, takes well-known sweet treats and serves them in a tall glass – a nod to the theatre and spectacle of the original May Fair, a riotous annual festival featuring acrobats, performances and puppet shows that once took place in the fields surrounding where the hotel now stands. “We wanted to tip our hats to the glamour and fun once associated with the fair while elevating some true classics,” explains Executive Head Chef John Stewicki. “Strawberry and champagne trifle launches the series, then we’ll introduce a new Pudding by the Glass every week – each one inspired by recipes and flavours from the era of the historic show.” Other puddings on the opening menu include Paris-Brest with pistachio mousseline cream and chocolate chips, Baked Alaska with caramelised pear, hazelnut and honey, and blackberry

Pastry Perfection The world’s most Michelin-decorated chef, Yannick Alléno, has launched a first-of-its-kind dining concept dedicated to the croissant. Located at Pavyllon Lounge within Four Seasons Hotel London Park Lane, La Croissanterie takes the pastry and transforms it into surprising savoury and sweet creations. “We wanted to respect the snack’s classic French base while pushing the boundaries of what it can be,” says Executive Chef Benjamin Ferra y Castell. “It’s about exploring how far you can take a familiar product while still allowing the croissant itself to shine.” Baked daily and hand laminated, each creation features unusual flavour combinations including Caesar Chicken, turning the popular salad into a buttery croissant filled with typical Caesar flavours; Scottish Lobster that’s brimming with lobster and egg mayonnaise, smoked pike roe and fragrant fresh tarragon; and Asian Wagyu, plied with sautéed Wagyu beef. Sweet creations include a Hazelnut Chocolate Croissant that’s layered with silky ganache, salted caramel and chocolate shavings, and Almond Praliné, combining toasted almond cream, caramelised nuts and vanilla glaze. “Each one works across different occasions, from lunch and afternoon coffee to an early evening bite,” Ferra y Castell adds. The new menu responds to growing demand for the snack beyond breakfast. “At its heart, the croissant is an ingredient-led product where the quality of the butter, flour and technique really matter,” Ferra y Castell says. “But what makes the croissant so exciting is its versatility. Once you have the foundation in place, you can take it in so many different directions.”

026

Bakewell tart. “Our aim is to create equal pleasure for both eye and palate,” Stewicki concludes.

APPETISERS

Ritual Union The centuries-old tradition of public bathing is

Once settled, the ritual begins. Centred

being reimagined for a modern crowd at Sonara,

around London’s largest traditional oak-lined

dubbed a Fine Bathing & Dining Club and due

banya chamber, a team of steam masters lead

to open within the landmark One Twenty King’s

parenie, a traditional whisk-steaming practice

Road development in London next year.

performed with handcrafted veniki made from

The idea was born from the simple belief

birch, oak or fir. Through cadenced movement

that restoration was never meant to be solitary.

and gentle contact, the bundles of leafy twigs

And, at a time when the wellbeing scene often

are used to gather and direct steam around the

encourages private withdrawal and reflection,

body, intensifying heat to encourage circulation,

Sonara poses that conversely, time spent with

ease muscular tension and leave the body feeling

others can be curative, particularly when paired

warmed and restored. Each cycle of heat is

with conversation, food and shared experience.

followed by cold immersion and periods of rest,

Extending over 1,500m2 across two floors, the

028

creating a pattern of contrast and recovery.

concept unfolds through the mediums of heat,

Dining is an equally important pillar of the

steam, cold, rest, treatments and dining. On

process. The 80-cover restaurant is set to feature

arrival, visitors change into swimwear and a robe

European-inspired fare, with a menu designed

before settling at their table in the restaurant.

to cater to every stage of the day, from a light

Reserved for the duration of the visit, this table

dish between bathing cycles to an extended meal

then becomes their base within the club, allowing

for deeper replenishment. Guests dine in their

guests the freedom to pause, return and repeat

robes, allowing the experience to continue as

as desired.

food, drink and conversation flows.

Green Gathering Harinath Govindaraj is celebrating two decades spent shaping the culinary identity of Gili Lankanfushi Maldives with the launch of his debut cookbook. Featuring more than 60 recipes, Plant to Plate: Vegan Recipes from Gili Lankanfushi Maldives invites both guests and food lovers to recreate the resort’s cuisine in the comfort of their own home. Spanning breakfasts, starters, soups, salads, mains, desserts and signature drinks, the collection showcases Govindaraj’s wellness-led approach to food, while also reflecting his longstanding philosophy of simple, mindful and seasonal cooking. Recipe highlights include rainbow root ceviche, Gili garden green gazpacho, teriyaki tofu steak with coriander sticky rice, pan-seared radish scallops, roasted green cauliflower with zesty couscous and caramel pistachio silk cheesecake, alongside treasured family recipes inspired by his South Indian heritage. “This book is about making beautiful food accessible to everyone,” the chef explains. “The recipes are designed to be practical, flexible and easy to make. I want readers to feel confident in the kitchen and to understand that some of the most memorable dishes can come from the simplest ingredients.”

CHEF’S TABLE

Giorgio Locatelli The TV personality and Michelin-starred chef behind Ristorante Locatelli at Amara shares his favourite food memories.

When did you first fall in love with cooking?

Are you an easy-going or a demanding

What’s your go-to cooking soundtrack?

I was born in a restaurant, so I didn’t need to

restaurant customer?

I listen to The Lunatics (Have Taken Over The

fall in love with it. I had no other option!

I’m very easy-going. I never complain, I just

Asylum) by Fun Boy Three, or the news.

don’t go back. Who is your favourite person to cook for?

Which chefs have inspired you over the years? Every chef you work with teaches you something,

Tell us about your most memorable meal.

My wife – she never complains and I know that

I think that’s important to remember. Corrado

Roast rabbit and polenta eaten at my

if I cook for her I get to share a meal with her!

Sironi taught me so much, as did Anton

grandparents’ home. The rabbit was sourced by

Edelmann at The Savoy, who bestowed on me

my grandfather and cooked by my grandmother.

Which cookbooks can we find on your shelf?

the benefits of hard work and honesty. One of

That’s a memory that really sticks with me from

I love all the cooking classics by Pellegrino

my greatest inspirations is Auguste Escoffier,

my childhood.

Artusi, Ada Boni and Escoffier. Some of my other favourites are Curry Everyday by Atul

mainly because of the legacy he left. His ability to teach and shape the next generation makes

What’s your favourite hotel restaurant?

Kochhar and Japanese Farm Food by Nancy

him one of the greatest.

Da Vittorio, a restaurant-with-rooms. It’s a

Singleton Hachisu.

family-run property among the dunes of Porto How often do you dine out?

Palo di Menfi in Sicily that reminds me of the

Where else do you get the creative inspiration

Not as often as I used to – maybe twice a week.

environment I grew up in.

for your dishes?

I always tend to eat at local restaurants because

From

the greatest pleasure for me is being able to

What’s your favourite dish?

walk home after dinner.

It has to be risotto with white truffle, which I cook myself.

the

different

seasons

and

their

accompanying ingredients. Which city is food heaven for you, and why? Bologna, it is the beating heart of Italian cuisine.

And your favourite drink to wash that down?

NOTABLE ACHIEVEMENTS As well as acting as a judge on MasterChef Italia and Celebrity MasterChef, Locatelli has appeared in a slew of TV series exploring the gastronomic traditions of his homeland. He serves as Head Chef at Ristorante Locatelli at Amara in Cyrpus, and as guiding culinary partner at Sabia within One&Only Portonovi in Montenegro.

A chilled glass of Antinori Castello della Sala

Restaurant dining or room service?

Cervaro from the Umbria region.

Room service.

It’s Sunday evening at home: who’s cooking

Sweet or savoury?

and what’s on the menu?

Sweet.

My wife, children and I are all cooking together. Usually it’s something like roast chicken with

Healthy dishes or full-fat indulgence?

lots of vegetables and other sides.

Full-fat indulgence.

031

SERVICE

A Stitch in Time Ten years after opening SingleThread in Healdsburg, Kyle Connaughton reflects on the evolution of his farm-led hospitality concept and looks to the factors set to shape its next decade. Words: Hannah Currie

ext month marks ten years since Kyle and

how the restaurant and menu execution would work, and

Katina Connaughton opened the doors to

the kind of hospitality we wanted to offer,” he explains.

SingleThread in Healdsburg, Sonoma County.

“The way we work today versus ten years ago is essentially

In that time, the husband-and-wife duo have

the same, but in every single one of those areas we’ve made

developed an integrated farm, restaurant and

incremental improvements.”

inn that has become one of California’s most

He refers to this philosophy as kaizen, a Japanese principle

talked-about hospitality establishments, earning multiple

promoting continuous yet gradual progress, or “change for

Michelin stars and widespread critical acclaim.

the good”, and reveals it is not the only influence he has

Still, for the property’s chef-owner, there is a strong sense

brought back from the country. The 24-acre farm, five-

of what’s yet to come. “We can’t help but feel like a young,

room inn and agriculturally-driven restaurant has always

up-and-coming business that is proving itself and figuring

showcased home grown produce and Sonoma’s seasonality,

it out, with so many ways still to innovate creatively,”

but is threaded with Japanese culinary technique and cultural

Connaughton says. “It is hard to believe that we have already

touchpoints that extend to spaces designed by New York-

been working on it for nearly a decade.”

based AvroKO, now long-term collaborators. “Japan has had

Both founders were entering their forties when SingleThread

a huge impact on us both. For me, the passion goes all the

opened in 2016, each arriving with an established career

way back to childhood,” Connaughton recalls. “My first job

behind them - Katina’s in agriculture, Kyle’s in the kitchen.

was at a sushi bar I had been visiting for years with my

Born and raised in California, the chef began in Los Angeles

family. I told the manager I wanted to make sushi and he

with an apprenticeship at one of the city’s oldest Japanese

laughed at me, but gave me a position in the kitchen.”

restaurants, before stints at Spago Beverly Hills, The Dining

Before opening SingleThread with Tony Greenberg under

Room at The Ritz-Carlton, Hama Sushi, and later, AOC

the management company Vertice Hospitality, both Kyle

in Copenhagen. Years of cooking in Japan for Michel Bras

and Katina had spent time living in Japan. For Katina, this

followed, ahead of a role with Heston Blumenthal as a head

included a formative period in Hokkaido, where she first

chef at The Fat Duck that began in 2006.

experienced farming in a rural agricultural community. Kyle

SingleThread was nevertheless the first kitchen of

has also written Donabe, a comprehensive guide to authentic

Connaughton’s own making. “We had years to plan exactly

Japanese clay pot cooking, and although he doesn’t describe

what we wanted to create: how we wanted to run the farm,

SingleThread as a Japanese restaurant, his team work closely

SERVICE

Sonoma at Capella Kyoto brings the California restaurant’s agricultural, hyperseasonal approach to Japan with the addition of Kyoto produce

“We can’t help but feel like a young, up-and-coming business that is proving itself and figuring it out, with so many ways still to innovate creatively.”

with the country’s artisans, from potters and

agricultural, hyper-seasonal approach, but

Executive Pastry Chef Emma Horowitz and

lacquerware makers to miso producers and

with Japanese produce at its heart. “We wanted

rising star Miu Morita, formerly of Tokyo’s

sustainable fisheries.

SingleThread in Sonoma and Sonoma at Capella

three-Michelin-starred L’Effervescence. Its

Kyoto to mirror each other,” the chef reveals.

creations feed into the restaurant’s dessert

“They are yin and yang.”

courses, while the concept also operates as a

The farm is equally central to SingleThread’s culinary philosophy, supplying much of the produce that reaches the plate. Farm-to-table

To achieve this, native Kyoto vegetables and

standalone venue, its display case filled with

was already an established approach in 2016,

flowers are combined with ingredients from

seasonal flowers and mosses. “It’s a beautiful

Connaughton acknowledges, but what still

SingleThread Farm, including summer squash,

space that’s essentially a living terrarium and a

distinguishes the business is the extent to which

almonds, cheese and hibiscus, while, as in

way for guests to experience SingleThread in a

the farm has been built into the operation. “The

Healdsburg, the menu guides guests through an

different way – with a bowl of matcha, a coffee,

partnership between chefs and farmers goes

immersive multi-course journey. One notable

or a pastry to take away, without sitting down

back for generations,” he clarifies. “There was

opening dish centres on takenoko – bamboo

to the full menu,” Connaughton says.

a period in cuisine in the early 2000s that was

shoots harvested each morning from a private

Bringing a programme this intricate to

really focused on innovation, and sometimes

grove around 30 minutes from the restaurant

life depends on the team on the ground,

the conversation around locality and seasonality

– paired with soft tofu and lemon and finished

Connaughton acknowledges. “We’re obsessive

went on the back burner. Certainly, over the

with SingleThread’s estate olive oil.

about the details, the story and the ‘why’. It’s

Miyagawa-cho

part of SingleThread’s culture, and Capella is

what makes us distinct is that beyond careful

neighbourhood, the 89-room Capella occupies

the same – every detail matters,” he observes.

sourcing, we own our farm, and the chef-farmer

the site of a former school beside Kenninji,

“We’re not articulating our vision to someone

husband-and-wife relationship is unique.”

Kyoto’s oldest Zen temple, sitting alongside

who is reading it from a spreadsheet, but to true

Maintaining that ecosystem brings several

the Kaburenjo, a training centre for the city’s

creative partners, and that’s rare. They are top

layers of complexity, with the reality of

geisha. “The hotel team wanted a restaurant

operators, like we aspire to be.”

directly supplying the restaurant resulting in

concept that speaks to this story, and to Kyoto,

That shared approach extends to the wider

a cycle of constant planting and harvesting.

while remaining innovative,” Connaughton

guest experience. “Across Capella properties,

“The farm doesn’t always look perfect, but to

says. “Within walking distance, there are

the brand doesn’t copy and paste. It looks at the

make an omelette, you have to break eggs,”

already several Michelin-star establishments

location of each property – whether it’s Bangkok,

says Connaughton. “We grow a huge diversity

with history stretching back years, so we

Sydney or Kyoto – and takes responsibility for

of products to supply the entirety of our menu

wanted to do something with a new voice. It’s

becoming part of that community or landscape,”

year-round - that’s hundreds of varieties of

noteworthy that a foreign chef has never come

Connaughton continues. “Our aim is for guests

fruits, herbs, flowers and vegetables.”

to Kyoto to open a restaurant like this before -

to feel culturally enriched, and if you can wrap

it’s not an international city like Tokyo.”

education into enjoyment, that really sticks.”

last 20 years, it’s returned to the forefront. But

Having established the approach in California,

Set

the

city’s

the duo have returned to a country they love

The project also includes SingleThread

In Kyoto, that means drawing on food culture

with the opening of Sonoma at Capella Kyoto - a

Entremets, a pâtisserie dedicated to mousse

shaped by seasons, festivals, unique materials

12-seat restaurant built around SingleThread’s

cakes, chocolates and confections led by

and craft. “We’re not only serving a meal using

035

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“We’re crazy about the details, the story and the ‘why’. It’s part of SingleThread culture.”

Mousse cakes, chocolates and seasonal confections are showcased at SingleThread Entremets under Executive Pastry Chef Emma Horowitz

local ingredients and flavours,” Connaughton

that research stemmed from my role running

says. “A big part of our mission is to translate

development lab at The Fat Duck, where I was

to guests what they’re experiencing, and why

deep diving into British food history.”

it is significant. We’re guides and interpreters

The spark for The Selvedge came later, on

as well as operators, and we want to enhance

a return trip to London around five years ago,

the restaurant experience for guests while

when, over Sunday supper in a pub, the couple

enhancing their time in Kyoto.”

watched a multi-generational family sharing a

That ambition carries through to the

meal. “We felt like we were in someone’s living

Connaughtons’ next opening, an 11-room inn

room, and questioned why we don’t have this

just a short walk from SingleThread. Drawing

pub culture at home,” Connaughton recalls.

on time spent living in Oxfordshire, The

The site itself is a Victorian-era home on

Selvedge translates an affection for British pub

the river in Healdsburg. Built in the late 1800s

culture into a design-led experience informed

and lined with rose gardens, it once belonged

by the cooking and farming traditions of the

to Isabella Simi, the county’s first female

English countryside. Connaughton’s family

winemaker. After extensive planning, the

connections are also reflected – his mother

Connaughtons spent nearly two years on a full

is originally from Norwich and his father is

remodel. AvroKO led the interiors, drawing on

Irish via Manchester – as well as time spent in

Vivienne Westwood’s gift for weaving together

Henley-on-Thames when he worked for Heston

historical fabric and tartans. “We named it The

Blumenthal. “Back then, I was spending a lot

Selvedge because it’s an old sewing term that

of time at Hampton Court Palace with different

references being handmade and hand-finished

British food historians,” he recalls. “Much of

at the edges,” Connaughton explains. Materials

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Connaughton is committed to showcasing the produce grown on SingleThread farm and the changing seasons of Sonoma

038

from UK makers, antique furniture and an art

actually having to run a full-service restaurant,

programme built around domestic textile artists

which is a good way to focus in on the guest

complete the feel, alongside a nod to punk

experience,” Connaughton emphasises.

rock’s origins (Kyle and Katina first met at a

Completing the anniversary celebrations is

punk concert as teenagers), and a library of

the publication of SingleThread: A Seasonal

rare books and magazines charting the music,

Approach to Intentional Cooking, Farming,

food and fashion of the 1970s and 80s. “A big

and Hospitality, a special project for the pair.

part of British food culture is about the layering

“The book follows a year in the life of the farm,

of time, as well as a distinct sense of place,”

and the conversation between the farmers

Connaughton says. “So for us, it was less about

and chefs,” he describes. “While the dishes

the recipes, and more about creating a certain

and presentations are important, each section

feeling,” he says.

corresponds to an agricultural product. We

The all-inclusive bed and breakfast allows the

tell the story through Katina’s eyes, as we do

couple to explore the same hospitality instincts

in the restaurant. It’s about our approach to

embodied by SingleThread, but with a smaller

hospitality, mentorship and supporting good

food programme reserved exclusively for guests.

food systems, artisans and craftspeople.”

The offering takes in a Sonoma-meets-English

Reflecting on the years past, and those still

approach to breakfast, alongside a collaboration

to come, Connaughton concludes: “That’s

with Russian River Brewing Company to produce

the throughline of everything that we do:

a British-style cask ale. There is an afternoon

connecting the farm and its seasonal produce

happy hour for guests returning from wine

with what guests experience on the plate. At the

tastings, as well as a high tea programme. “We

core, it has always been about agriculture, and

get to focus on serving beautiful food without

that really is the single thread.”

MODBAR.COM

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Unexpected Turns One year after opening Restaurant Gaa in Bangkok, Garima Arora became the first Indian female chef to be awarded a Michelin star. Now, she’s setting her sights on a new venture in Kuala Lumpur. Words: Luo Jingmei • Portrait Photography: © Jarek Pajewski

arima Arora was on course to becoming a

The accolade is not to be taken lightly. Arora is the first

fully-fledged journalist in Mumbai before

Indian female chef to achieve Michelin star status, and

a last-minute change of heart sent her in

since then she’s also been named Asia’s Best Female Chef.

an entirely different direction. “It was hard

Restaurant Gaa debuted at number 16 on Asia’s 50 Best

to walk away from everything I had already

Restaurants list, and other distinctions soon stacked up,

invested, but I realised I wanted to build my

putting Arora well and truly on the culinary map.

life around food” she says of the unlikely pivot. And so,

Restaurant Gaa’s success is entirely the result of Arora’s

she packed her bags and left Mumbai for Paris, beginning

vision. The menu is a blended distillation of her Indian

an intense, two-year training at Le Cordon Bleu, before

heritage and the ingredients found in her host city. Signature

graduating with the Grand Diplôme in 2010. Swapping words

dishes include Summer Curry – a cold curry with blue

for ingredients proved to be a good decision.

swimmer crab, green apple ice and okra, and the Tandoori

In the following years, the validity of that career switch

Story, which features charcoal-grilled Mon Thong durian

has been reinforced time and again. At first, Arora cemented

(she is an unashamed durian devotee) seasoned with chilli

her new skills at a slew of reputable kitchens around the

and amchur, topped with chickpea-yogurt khadi and served

world, including Verre in Dubai and Noma in Copenhagen, a

with roselle saag, tandoori roti and homemade pickles.

culinary experience she says permanently changed the way

Arora’s adventurous attitude towards food is reflected

she approaches the craft. “Each experience has shaped the

in dishes like the DIY Bhel, a deconstructed tuna salad

way I think about discipline, ingredients and creativity,”

embellished with somsa chilli and khakra (a thin, roasted

she affirms.

flatbread from Western India). There is familiarity in her

But it’s a stint as sous chef for the legendary Gaggan Anand

dishes; many feature food she grew up with, but with an

at his eponymous restaurant in Bangkok that was perhaps

elevated twist. Her familial roots are another common

most impactful, once again sending her spinning in another

theme. “I grew up in a Punjabi family and food was always

direction. When a new project with the legendary chef fell

an important part of our lives,” she says. “My father was

through, Arora decided to remain in Bangkok anyway, having

probably my earliest and greatest influence in the kitchen.

become intrigued by the bustling city’s vibrant markets and

He travelled frequently for work and would return home with

cuisine. In 2017, she channelled that curiosity into her own

new recipes and flavours that he wanted to recreate for us.”

venture, Restaurant Gaa. It was awarded a Michelin star just

This has resulted in some of her fondest memories of

one year later, with a coveted second star following in 2023.

cooking: “He taught me to be curious about food, even

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Restaurant Gaa’s Michelin star fare blends Indian inspirations with Thai ingredients

“Indian techniques can be applied to ingredients from any geographical region, with the result remaining distinctly Indian in spirit.”

influencing small details in the way I cook today, such as my

which celebrates recognisable flavours and traditions while

appreciation for acidity and balance.” Unsurprisingly, he was

presenting them in unexpected contemporary ways,” Arora

Arora’s biggest cheerleader when she announced she wanted

says. It also acts as an extension of her belief that Indian

to dedicate her career to being a chef. “It was a significant

cuisine does not belong to a niche. Rather, it is borderless.

decision, but my father supported me throughout,” she says.

“Indian techniques can be applied to ingredients from any

Beyond Gaa, Arora is the Chef-Owner of Marigold, a luxury

geographical region, with the result remaining distinctly

catering service based in Bangkok. She is also the founder of

Indian in spirit,” she continues. “And it’s this philosophy

Food Forward India, a not-for-profit initiative dedicated to

that guides us. We will have fun with local ingredients but

exploring and documenting the diversity of India’s cuisines,

still bring forward authentic Indian flavours.”

reflecting a wider commitment to preserving culinary

A natural sponge for absorbing new cuisines, Arora

knowledge and advancing a deeper understanding of the

has inevitably been impressed by the Malaysian capital’s

country’s food culture.

“culturally layered food scene”, admitting it has had

The next chapter in Arora’s culinary journey is Yaari at the

an impact on how she considers balance, intensity and

much-anticipated Waldorf Astoria in Kuala Lumpur, set to

superimposing flavours. “Both countries use ingredients

open in early 2027. Its name is symbolic, manifesting joyous

such as coconut, shallots, ginger and chillies, while Malaysian

collective encounters around food. “Yaari refers to friendship

sambal and acar remind me of the chutneys and pickles we

in Hindi, and the restaurant is a celebration of that alliance

have in India,” the chef confirms. “That sense of familiarity,

in its most genuine and unfiltered form,” she says. “Much

expressed through a distinct culinary culture, is what draws

of the inspiration comes from my own experiences of sharing

me to Malaysian cuisine.”

meals with people I love and the way food creates connection and a sense of belonging.”

Even so, Arora’s primary goal is to transport guests back to India with one bite, which is why she also contributed to

The restaurant’s cuisine reflects this spirited union, with

the design of the space, overseen by the Hong Kong office

refined versions of street food and everyday Indian dishes an

of LW Design. Like the juxtaposition of clarity and surprise

acknowledgement of Arora’s roots. “The menu is grounded

embodied by Arora’s food, the space eschews ornate décor

in modern Indian cuisine,” she explains. “But it’s easy to

and conventional Indian palettes. Instead, the minimalist,

navigate, and will feature a dedicated selection of chaats,

modern and elegant interior provides a calming backdrop

followed by playful small plates, a substantial grill section

for the food to take centre stage. Details such as tableware,

with robust tandoori dishes, and comforting home-style

Indian-inspired artwork and the dishes themselves will add

curries and rice.”

splashes of vibrant colour.

Dishes include pani puri with blue cheese and sweetcorn,

It’s a sensory combination that she hopes will root guests

an iconic pop-in-your-mouth street classic that’s balanced

in an immersive dining experience. “Ultimately, Yaari is

by the rich sharpness of blue cheese and the natural

an invitation for guests to come as they are, gather around

sweetness of corn. And for dessert, there’s filter coffee

the table and share something thoughtful and memorable

mousse and murukku, which spotlights the savoury, salty

together,” she concludes. “I want diners to pass plates

crunch of South Indian murukku, paired with silky, aromatic

around, discover new flavours together and be present in

filter coffee. “These two dishes reflect Yaari’s approach,

the moment.”

043

Priceless Prestige A natural affinity for service is the foundation of Daniele Quattromini’s career, and now he’s using the skill to both elevate and evolve the diverse F&B offering at Claridge’s. Words: Abby Lowe

Daniele Quattromini Director of Food & Beverage – Claridge’s Working in his family’s restaurants as a teenager naturally led Daniele Quattromini to the service industry. After studying Hospitality Management at Bournemouth University, he undertook a pivotal internship at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and a short spell as Head Waiter at Chewton Glen. In 2015, he was awarded the Gold Service Scholarship, which nurtures the UK’s front-of-house talent, while acting as Club Lounge 39 Manager for corporate hospitality company, CH&Co Group. He spent a year as Food & Beverage Manager at Cliveden House before moving to Corinthia London in 2017, where he rose through the ranks to become Director of Food & Beverage. In 2026, he became Director of Food & Beverage at Claridge’s.

044

ailing from a traditional Italian family,

the intricacies of next-level service. The senior

Daniele Quattromini was perhaps destined

managers were like superstars to us youngsters

to work in hospitality. He describes his

back then!”

home growing up as a ‘party house’ where

This training put the foundations in place for

friends and family would gather to sample his

what has cemented Quattromini’s reputation in

mother’s famously good cooking. And, typically

the industry – an almost nine-year tenure at

for Italian migrants of a certain generation, his

Corinthia London. First as Operations Manager,

grandparents opened restaurants when they

then Deputy Director of Food & Beverage, and

migrated to the UK. In fact, it was while putting

finally, Director of Food & Beverage. During his

in a shift at his uncle’s trattoria at 14-years-old

time at the hotel, he oversaw the relaunch of the

that he caught the hosting bug himself.

entire ground floor F&B offering, transforming

“I used to do pot-washing at the weekends.

an outdoor space into The Garden in the wake of

Then one night, my uncle was short-staffed, so he

the pandemic, and luring fellow Italians Salvatore

asked me to go out onto the floor,” Quattromini

Calabrese and Francesco Mazzei to launch Velvet

explains. “I had the best time, I just loved the

and Mezzogiorno respectively.

madness. From that moment on, I was out there

“They were both great projects to be a part

every weekend, and then naturally, I started to

of,” Quattromini affirms. “Prior to Velvet, the

think about doing it as a professional career.”

hotel had never made over a million pounds

From here, Quattromini studied Hospitality

in revenue from a bar. And Mezzogiorno was

Management at Bournemouth University –

just the most fun I’ve ever had on a concept. I

despite a school career advisor warning about

genuinely think it’s the best value restaurant in

the unsociable hours and poor pay. And while

town for authentic Italian food.”

he notched up a slew of roles in subsequent

Value is a theme that Quattromini returns

years, it’s a one-year internship at Le Manoir

to time and again, particularly now as he has

aux Quat’Saisons that he credits as the most

stepped into the coveted position of Director of

transformative. “It was my true education in

Food & Beverage at Claridge’s, where he oversees

five-star hotels and luxury service, and the first

10 distinct F&B venues and anything else that

time I’d worked with people who had so much

falls under the food and drink umbrella. The role

pride in the job,” he says. “It taught me how to

sees him reunite with seasoned hotelier Thomas

understand each guest and what they needed –

Kochs, who he worked alongside at Corinthia

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Dante Mayfair, Claridge’s

London. “We have a fantastic relationship,”

Painter’s Room, which is a more casual space

He explains that when selecting someone for

Quattromini explains. “I know what he needs,

with a younger, fresher feel. We want to stay

a role, he’s primarily led by personality. “We

and he knows what I can do – when I arrived it

relevant, so we’re constantly evolving, but it’s

like to hire nice people,” he says. “We can teach

was very much a case of hit the ground running!”

probably one of our biggest challenges, even if

anyone how to carry a plate correctly, but there’s

First order of business was getting to grips

it is more normal for young people to tap into

no point being an elite technical waiter if you lack

luxury these days.”

empathy and passion.”

with Dante, the iconic New York eatery’s Mayfair edition, which opened at the hotel in June. “The

So, a diverse portfolio is essential. But what’s

It’s fundamental to get this right for the

initial six months were quite hectic because we

key to ensuring success across the board,

satisfaction of every guest, but it’s integral for

were launching this new restaurant and I was

according to Quattromini, is more vital still.

maintaining standards according to legacy guests,

told ‘you know what to do, just crack on’,” he

“Value is absolutely paramount,” he emphasises.

many of whom have been returning to Claridge’s

laughs. “Then I turned my attention to Claridge’s

“There are places across London offering poor

for decades. Quattromini describes one New

Bakery, which is a very cool new offering. Despite

quality service, food and concept, but the price

York couple he met recently who’d been coming

the name, people don’t seem to associate it with

tag is still high. We sit at the top end of the

to the hotel since they were children. Initially

us, and that makes it a bit more approachable,

sector and yes, our prices reflect that, but I like

visiting with their grandparents, they then met

because maybe there’s a perception that you have

to reiterate that you are paying for your seat at

each other in Claridge’s Bar as adults. The man

to be wearing the right shoes or dress code to

Claridge’s and that is why it’s worth something.

proposed there, and now they come back every

come to Claridge’s.”

I do believe we’re very generous with what guests

year to commemorate. “It’s incredible really,

get in return.”

because they have this history of experiences

Striking a balance between maintaining classic

here,” Quattromini says. “It means so much

venues beloved by legacy customers – places like

Service, naturally, is the defining feature of

The Foyer & Reading Room and Claridge’s Bar,

that offering, and making sure it’s as close to

which Quattromini collectively refers to as the

perfect as possible involves multiple streams

And therein lies both the beauty and the

“time capsule spaces” – while also appealing to a

coming together at once. A considered gesture

challenge of the role. “Elevation is my main

new generation of potential customers with more

from an intuitive staff member at the right

goal,” he says. “I think going from bad to good

contemporary offerings, is a daily challenge that

time doesn’t happen by accident, and for this

is easy, it’s going from good to great that’s the

sits at the heart of the heritage hotel conundrum.

reason, Quattromini is vigilant when it comes to

hard part. We’re still aspiring for perfection.”

“There are some areas that we simply can’t

recruitment. “I sit with every candidate, which

He doesn’t take the ambition lightly: “In my

mess around with,” he stresses. “Guests who

is very time consuming,” he admits. “But I think

first few months here I was pinching myself every

have been visiting for 30 or 40 years come back

it’s important that I see everyone. Our junior

day,” he says. “The uniform was very familiar to

specifically because they enjoy that traditional

teams are the ones speaking to our guests and

me, but only from afar. Now I proudly wear the

vibe. But then we have somewhere such as The

delivering our experiences day-to-day.”

Claridge’s crest on my own lapel.”

more than just serving someone a Martini.”

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The Mansion Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek DALLAS

Words: Hannah Currie Photography: © Steven Karlisch

IN A BITE Owner: HN Capital Partners Operator: Rosewood Hotel Group Interior Design: Ink + Oro Executive Sous Chef: Mervin Friday F&B Director: Yannick Augy Head Bartender: Eric Sobalvarro Tableware: Corby Hall, Vista Alegre Table Linen: Settings by Mona www.rosewoodhotels.com

046

he equestrian sport of polo is enjoying

soft, sturdy material from Perennials proved to

a resurgence in Texas, and it’s against

be a winning solution.”

this backdrop that Dallas interior design

Simple in concept, the treatment creates

studio Ink+Oro has refreshed The Mansion at

“drama in all the right places”, with folds and

Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek.

texture adding softness, shape and shadow. “In

Drawing on the visual language of outdoor

the evening, the light bounces off the draperies,

leisure pursuits, the team opted to enhance

which creates a rich and glowing aesthetic,” the

the hotel’s historic interiors while making the

designer continues.

space feel relevant for today. “We preserved

Across the interiors, a muted palette of

the restaurant’s original detailing and built

taupe, olive and clay is complemented by brass

on the existing architecture with drapery

lighting and patinated metal accents, while

and lush greenery to complement its whimsy

a central banquette in coral hues introduces

and grandeur,” says studio founder Tiffany

a brighter note. Verdant planting brings the

Woodson. “The goal was to bring some

garden aesthetic to life, further enhanced by

excitement back to an iconic space so that it

handpainted wallpaper depicting a floral scene.

can be experienced in a new way.”

The tablescape has been carefully considered

The most visible intervention is a tented

too, with a bespoke tablecloth and coordinating

canopy inspired by open-air gatherings, with

napkins created by Settings by Mona, each

hundreds of yards of layered fabric enveloping

finished with hand-embroidered detailing.

the perimeter. “The dining room offers views

Woodson concludes: “The final outcome is a

through the terrace to the patio, lawn and

bright and cheerful room that’s fit for a business

rolling greenery, so we were inspired by the

breakfast, yet swanky enough to transition to a

idea of a garden party,” Woodson explains. “The

date night at The Mansion.”

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Soolhaus Canopy by Hilton BANGKOK SUKHUMVIT Words: Abby Lowe Photography: © Kan Sivapuchpong

nfluences from Korea’s 1980s art scene

references to a classic Hanok can be seen in the

alongside

traditional

form of a ceiling crafted from exposed timber

architectural touchpoints form the foundations

beams that run in a rhythmic pattern, while a

for Soolhaus, a lively late-night bar within

series of intricate motifs and contrasting fabrics

Canopy by Hilton Bangkok Sukhumvit, the

visible across wallpaper and soft furnishings

brand’s first foray into Southeast Asia. “The

add layers of luxe detail.

the

country’s

hotel is located right next to Korean Town,

Each element is illuminated by red light,

so we used that as a basis, looking to Korea’s

which deepens as the evening hours tick by.

history for inspiration,” explains Khun Joy, co-

“We wanted to tell the story of modern-day

founder of Paradigm Shift Design, the studio

Korea by using nostalgic design gestures, but

behind the multi-layered concept.

at the same time, retell that tale in a modern

The result is a space that blends the modern geometric forms associated with early

IN A BITE Operator: Hilton Interior Design: Paradigm Shift Design Lighting Design: In Contrast Design www.hilton.com

way, bringing it to life with an energetic lighting scheme,” Joy continues.

postmodernism, with the Hanok-inspired

One of four dining and drinking destination

architectural curves first showcased centuries

within the hotel, each conceived to encourage

ago. “The space encompasses a distinct Korean

guests to explore beyond the city’s traditional

identity that’s been updated with modernity,

tourist routes, the bar serves as a backdrop for

warmth and lively urban energy,” Joy says.

Korean-inspired drinks such as bottles of soju

A striking neon pendant takes centre stage.

and signature cocktails, as well as light bites.

Based on the distinctive outline of a Hanbok,

“The aim was to capture the fun and spirited

a type of formal Korean dress renowned for

lifestyle that both Korea and Bangkok are famed

its vibrant colours, it sits behind the bar as

for,” Joy adds. “Ultimately, it’s about people

a reference to past and present. Elsewhere,

having a good time.”

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The Restaurant Casa Bonavita MALTA

Words: Abby Lowe Photography: © Julian Vassallo

nce a centuries-old family residence, it

it brings to the space, once again, evoking the

took Suzanne and Christopher Sharp,

charming character of a lived-in residence,”

founders of The Rug Company and

confirms Suzanne.

owners of Casa Bonavita in the Maltese village

There are other themes at play too – namely,

of Attard, seven intensive years to restore

a nod to Malta’s famous crossover of cultures,

the property, eventually reopening it as a

as reflected in the romantic details throughout,

lavish 17-bedroom retreat. At its heart is The

and a blurring of the lines between indoors

Restaurant, which, in keeping with the rest of

and outdoors. “The space was designed to

the hotel, feels like a salon within a home rather

bring the beauty and tranquillity of the garden

than an official dining room. “It was less about

inside, connecting the house to the surrounding

making a design statement and more about

landscape through arches that open out onto a

creating somewhere that feels timeless and

flagstone courtyard,” adds Christopher.

deeply lived in,” Suzanne explains.

IN A BITE Owners: Suzanne and Christopher Sharp Interior Design: Suzanne Sharp Studio Executive Chef: Dex Oseman F&B Manager: Romeo Bisacchi Head Bartender: Kaung Htet Moe www.casabonavita.com

As a result, diners feel enveloped by nature,

Even so, the space commands attention,

and there’s an unspoken invitation to embrace

with natural light and striking frescoed walls

the spirit of Mediterranean living by slowing

– painted over a period of six weeks by Italian

down and savouring a menu created by Executive

muralists Alfonso Orombelli and Luna Aulehla

Chef Dex Oseman of The River Café. “We hope

Greppi. Tables are set at an intimate scale and

diners leave remembering not just what they

surrounded by rattan chairs, while antique

ate, but how The Restaurant made them feel,”

furnishings, artworks and objects sourced

Suzanne says. “The greatest compliment would

by the family after decades of travel add a

be for someone to say it felt as though they had

personal touch. “Every piece has been chosen

spent an evening in a characterful private home,

for its beauty and for the memories and feeling

rather than having simply dined in a hotel.”

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Akira Back St Regis ROME

Words: Hannah Currie Photography: © Studio Serena Eller

ehind Rome’s grand façades lies a world

Central to the scheme is the artwork of Young

of hidden passages and underground

Hee, Back’s mother, which is reproduced on

tunnels. It is this lesser-known side of

wallcoverings and informs the character of

the Eternal City that influenced House of Black’s

each dining space. Deep red and burgundy tones

design for Akira Back at St Regis Rome, the

create a dramatic atmosphere in one room,

Michelin-starred chef’s first Italian outpost.

while another takes its cues from the inky blues

The concept comes to life across a series

associated with her pieces. Elsewhere, a private

of interconnected spaces. “The design and

dining room is discreetly accessed via a hidden

atmosphere move in a dance between worlds,

corridor, with green and gold tones inspired by

unfolding through portals that transform the

a painting discovered during the studio’s initial

experience as guests move deeper into the

site visit. “The vibrant artwork feels almost like

restaurant,” explains Toni Black, CEO of the

a spirit moving through the interiors, shifting in

London-based design studio.

character and energy as it appears in different

The material palette builds on this sense of

IN A BITE Owner: Dilmon Services Operator: Marriott International Interior Design: House of Black Interior Fit-Out: Giglio 1973 Lighting Design: Artin Light Chef Patron: Akira Back Executive Chef: Kim Kihyun Restaurant Manager: Karolina Poltoraka www.marriott.com

052

spaces,” Black comments.

gradual revelation, combining textured glass

The open kitchen and omakase room offer a

modelled on Rome’s cathedral windows with

distinctive interpretation of the creative vision.

woven metals and timber flooring. Original

In the latter, Paolo Castelli’s Golden Cloud

architectural features, including ornate cornicing

suspension light by Giglio 1973 illuminates

and marble detailing, have been preserved,

what Black describes as a secluded hidden

while bespoke furnishings upholstered in velvet

jewel. “Both spaces stand out because they offer

and leather introduce additional texture - part

more than a striking visual moment,” she says.

of a comprehensive fit-out package delivered

“They create experiences that feel immersive,

by Giglio 1973.

unexpected and distinctly Akira Back.”

Bologna. Milano. Marbella.

paolocastelli.com

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Mr Edison The Bellevue Hotel PHILADELPHIA

Words: Hannah Currie Photography: Courtesy of Mr Edison

IN A BITE Owner: Jeffrey Chodorow Operator: China Grill Management Developer: Lubert-Adler Architecture: Tantillo Architecture Interior Design: Clavel Arquitectos Lighting Design: L’Observatoire International Graphic Design: PerStudio Procurement: Grupo Malasa Chef de Cuisine: Matt Levin F&B Director: Jim Haney Tableware: Steelite www.mredisonphilly.com

054

et within Philadelphia’s The Bellevue

natural to experience. Guests initially read the

Hotel, Mr Edison by American restaurateur

woodwork, mouldings, velvet and leather as

Jeffrey Chodorow reimagines a 1940s

belonging to the past. Then the lights come in,

supper club in partnership with Spanish design

and the perception changes completely.”

studio Clavel Arquitectos. The restaurant’s

Clavel is particularly proud of a large

name nods to inventor Thomas Edison, whose

installation of Edison-style filament lamps

electrification of the property more than a

that fills the volume of the double-height room.

century ago transformed how the city could

Elsewhere, a glittering 12-foot Ferris wheel

spend its evenings.

hangs over the bar, holding spirits in clear

“We wanted to create a contemporary

gondolas and rotating on demand to deliver

interpretation of the great American supper club:

bottles to the bartender. “There is something

theatrical and immersive, but never nostalgic for

almost hypnotic about watching it operate,”

nostalgia’s sake,” says studio founder Manuel

the designer says. “It transforms a functional

Clavel. “The intention is for guests to feel as

moment into theatre.”

if they have stepped into another era, only to

The entertainment programme taps into the

discover that the space is more technologically

same theme, featuring “music to dine by”,

sophisticated than it appears.”

with classical pianists, jazz ensembles and

The bi-level, 150-seat venue draws on the

torch singers. “A supper club is about dinner,

grandeur of early 20th-century America, with

drinks, music, performance, conversation and

lighting providing a futuristic counterpoint.

participating in a particular social world,”

“It feels like the future as it might have been

Clavel concludes. “That is what Mr Edison is

imagined 100 years ago,” Clavel continues.

about: creating a place with such a distinct

“That contradiction is difficult to describe, but

identity that it feels like entering a story.”

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Alma Ytri TRÆNA A community comes together to envision a new future for its island, resulting in a luxury hotel with gastronomic storytelling at its heart. Words: Abby Lowe • Photography: © Jonathan Vivaas Kise

t is impossible to know when you’ve reached the end of the earth, but arriving at Træna, a 477-island archipelago scattered off the Helgeland coast in northern Norway, it

certainly feels like you could be getting close. The six-hour ferry journey from Bodø intersects the Arctic Circle for a start, but it’s the landscape that hints at otherworldliness. Vast, sheer-sided mountains loom skywards from the seabed, ensconced by seas that rarely get a reprieve from relentless winds. In winter, temperatures drop below zero and the sun only appears for a couple of hours a day – forerunners of the area’s famously ferocious storms. Perhaps it’s an unlikely place, then, to launch a luxury hotel. Yet on Husøy, Træna’s most populated island, the 450-or-so residents collectively decided that a hotel was the best solution for countering the decline of the local fishing industry and futureproofing the community. All in agreement, Swedish investors Asle Helgheim and Ellen Hestene were brought on board (the pair already own a spa hotel in the country’s Finnskogen forests), and 10 years after the initial idea was born, Ytri opened.

In the months that followed, Husøy’s population has increased by around 10%, and many locals have taken central roles at the hotel. “The development has created year-round

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The menu at Alma blends hyper-local Nordic produce with a definitive French touch, evolving to reflect the seasons

jobs and brought new people to the island, while also

Nowhere is this felt more palpably than at Alma,

stay,” explains Moa Björnsson, CEO of Træna 365,

the hotel’s signature eatery. Named after a famous

a community development company dedicated to

resident who captured island life on film, using

sustaining year-round life, work and local culture on

a camera sent to her by her long-lost brother who

the islands. “New housing has been developed, and

emigrated to Honolulu (her photos are dotted all over

local businesses and small-scale producers are able to

the island), its perceived simplicity belies myriad

supply the hotel, growing their activities beyond the

considered details. “We wanted the space to feel

short summer season.”

warm, grounded, generous and sophisticated, but

For locals then, the project has already achieved

never formal or pretentious,” Rimmereid reflects. “It

what it set out to. But from a tourism perspective,

should be somewhere you want to stay at the table a

the challenge remains in luring visitors to what may

little longer.”

seem like the edge of the world – Ytri translates to ‘the

Natural materials such as solid oak, Norwegian

outer point’ in Old Norse – asking them to embark on

sheepskin and paper cord bring tactility, while the

a distinctly Norwegian version of luxury that requires

handcrafted lighting and acoustic timber ceiling

getting comfortable with unpredictable wildness.

create a softer, more intimate ambience. Rustic tables

Naturally, the design is pivotal to this mission,

reference driftwood and restored school chairs bring

with Oslo-based studio Bonaparte Interiør leaning

a piece of nostalgia into a contemporary setting.

into local reference points to truthfully convey the

“There is a deliberate tension between refinement

story of this wind-battered island. “The strongest

and something more rugged and familiar,” Rimmereid

influence was Træna itself,” explains Interior Architect

says. “Most importantly, the interior remains calm

Emmy Rimmereid. “The landscape here is incredibly

enough for the food and the people around the table

powerful, so our approach was never to compete with

to take centre stage.”

it, but instead to create a quiet dialogue with it inside and outside.”

Indeed, there is plenty of room for the gastronomy to shine here, no small feat when the dramatic vistas

Colours, textures and materials are all borrowed

beyond the window constantly vie for attention.

from Norwegian coastlines and local history, with

Overseen by Head Chef Yann Manceau, the concept

stone and shell terrazzo, Norwegian pine and driftwood

takes the best of hyperlocal Nordic ingredients and

brushing up against one another throughout. “For

adds oomph with classic French flair. “We want to

us, the project became about balancing contrasts:

show off the amazing produce that is available to us

raw and refined, simplicity and richness, stillness

here,” explains the chef. “But also, I’m French, so I

and warmth,” Rimmereid continues. “The luxury is

want to have a bit of fun with the two elements and

intentionally understated and experienced through

see what transpires.”

materiality, craftsmanship, comfort and atmosphere,

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rather than something that needs to announce itself.”

giving those who already live here more reasons to

The current iteration spans an elaborate 12-course

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Træna’s abundance of seafood is a constant source of inspiration for Alma’s team of chefs

tasting menu that highlights local delicacies, or a more succinct four-course option that changes on a rotating three-day basis. Each is weighted in storytelling, with references to the island’s culture interwoven in every course. Handmade bread is accompanied by a brown butter candle that’s lit at the table for instance, a tribute to the lanterns that guided sailors and fishermen safely back home after periods at sea, while ingredients showcase the best of the current season, emphasising the pliancy of each menu. In late September, the last of summer’s bounty is on display in dishes such as Jerusalem artichoke with lobster, quail egg and roe, a balanced interplay of sweetness and earthiness; roasted monkfish in pancetta, cider choucroute and beurre rouge, revealing layer after layer of flavour; duck à l’orange with summer cabbage, tomato and orange chutney, crushed pearl tomatoes and star anise sauce, a nod to Manceau’s classic French training; and to finish, hazelnut mousse, blackcurrant gel, chocolate ganache and blackcurrant sorbet. An astute wine pairing spanning everything from a crisp, smooth Chardonnay to a rich, Southern Rhône red complementing each course. For Manceau, Alma remains an evolving

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13-15 September 2027 Grand Hyatt, Kuala Lumpur

Join us at the Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur for TO THE TABLE Asia 2027 and connect directly with senior decision makers from Asia Pacific’s prestigious hotel and restaurant groups. Through focused one-to-one meetings, engaging seminars and high-level networking, meet the industry leaders driving hospitality projects across the region. Discuss their specific requirements and discover business opportunities while building valuable relationships.

For details on all TO THE TABLE events, please see:

www.tothetableforums.com Or contact Justin Wall: justin@tothetableforums.com

PURIT Y

Discover more at bauscher.com

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work in progress – a creative challenge the chef

Sanna – home to just two people, and once-

relishes, particularly when working with such

upon-a-time, a particularly adventurous moose

abundance on his small yet generous doorstep.

who swam over from the mainland – in which

“The goal is to be able to play with whatever

Manceau and his team will grill al fresco in the

products come to us here on the island,” he

shadow of the towering mountain.

explains. “We had a lot of goose visiting this

This collision between landscape, people and

summer, for example, so we’ll fillet those and

food makes an anomaly of sorts – rarely are all

use them once they’re rested. And now is a great

three components in such seeming harmony.

time for Norwegian coastal lamb. They’ve been

That alone makes it a worthwhile quest,

grazing on salty grass for the past six months,

particularly for those keen for stimulation

so the meat tastes fantastic.”

beyond a sun lounger. This is something the

Said lamb has pride of place on the à la carte

locals have known all along, of course, and now

menu that’s available throughout the day.

Ytri has come to life, the winds of irreversible

Served with Nordic-style chimichurri, potatoes

change are already in motion.

and a lamb jus, it’s the hearty dish needed

“Ytri has created a ripple effect throughout

after a day spent battling the bracing winds.

the community by supporting more year-round

Similarly, fish soup with aioli and Norwegian

business, which in turn means more people are

cheese is an instant mood lifter, and roasted

choosing to build their lives here,” Björnsson

cauliflower with celeriac crunch and mushroom

concludes. “Ultimately, it has helped to create

feels instantly warming, especially when eaten

a more vibrant and resilient island community.

in the glow of the crackling fire.

And perhaps most importantly, it has created a

Elsewhere, and the team will offer culinary experiences on the neighbouring island of

sense of optimism – a belief that this is a place with a future.”

IN A BITE Owner: Laho, Sjøset Eiendom, Geir Sjøset Developer: Træna 365 Architecture: Vardehaugen Architects Interior Design: Bonaparte Interiør F&B Consultant: Mikael Forselius Head Chef: Yann Manceau F&B Manager: Jacob Kiel Head Sommelier: Nicolaj Rasmussen Tableware: BHS Tabletop: Bauscher (Purity Collection) and Playground www.ytri.no

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Seok Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme PARIS Celebrated Korean chef Mingoo Kang’s first European restaurant is an ode to heritage, food culture and the enduring power of home. Words: Adrian Moore • Photography: © More Content Studio (unless otherwise stated)

ocated just off Rue de la Paix, Park Hyatt Paris-

to Hong Kong with Hansik Goo, a restaurant that leans more

Vendôme has opened Seok, a restaurant created with

explicitly towards traditional Korean cooking.

three-Michelin-starred chef Mingoo Kang. Rather than

Seok takes a different route. Exceptional French produce

transplanting one of his existing concepts to Paris, Kang has

is integrated into a menu that remains Korean in identity,

conceived the restaurant specifically for the French capital,

creating something intended to belong specifically to Paris

bringing together Korean culinary traditions, local produce

rather than functioning as Mingles abroad. “We were

and a personal story that gives the venue its name.

looking for much more than a celebrated chef,” says Gorka

“For me, Seok means recreating the home I lived in with

Bergareche, General Manager and Area Vice President of

my father in Seoul,” explains Kang, who had long hoped to

Operations, Luxury Hotels EAME. “We wanted a partner with

travel to Paris with his father. Fortunately, before his death,

a strong cultural point of view.”

Kang was able to tell him about the project. “Seok carries three meanings: father, Seoul and home,” he says. Kang is best known for Mingles, a venue he opened in

when designing the space. Toro was determined to avoid

2014 in Cheongdam-dong, a ward of Gangnam District, one

what he describes as a “Disney aesthetic” with literal

of Seoul’s most affluent neighbourhoods. Set discreetly away

reproductions of Korean motifs, so instead, created an

from the main thoroughfare, Mingles has a calm, pared-

intimate, enveloping dining room with a darker and more

back dining room of pale timber, handcrafted ceramics and

saturated character than the rest of the hotel.

refined furniture by local artisans, while the kitchen has earned multiple accolades for its contemporary cuisine.

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French-Mexican architect and designer Hugo Toro was given considerable freedom by both the hotel and the chef

“The colour palette came from something very personal: leaves that I collected during a walk in Paris with Kang,”

Kang’s approach is grounded in hansik, fermentation and

Toro explains. Browns, reds and greens taken from those

jang, the ancient, fermented sauces and pastes that form

keepsakes inform a richly pigmented material palette, while

one of the foundations of Korean food culture. It has also

the low light and intimate atmosphere give the restaurant

been shaped by experience overseas: the chef worked in the

an almost private, speakeasy-like quality.

kitchens of Martín Berasategui in San Sebastián and Nobu

Vernacular influences are present throughout the interior

in both Miami and the Bahamas, before developing his own

without being overt, with traditional tiles and decorative

culinary language back on home turf. In 2020, he expanded

patterns reworked into cleaner, more contemporary forms.

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Kang’s menu at Seok showcases the essential element of jang, the fermented sauces and pastes underpinning Korean cuisine

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Ceiling slats, for example, carry a texture that

of the project refer to street food, Kang is careful

recalls parquet flooring and elements of 1930s

to make a distinction. “Seok expresses, more

French design. “For me, the project lies in the

precisely, the food that Koreans enjoy together

encounter between Korean and French heritage,”

in everyday life,” he confirms.

Toro continues. “I looked for materials, forms

On the menu, that appears as jeon, pan-

and gestures capable of creating a connection

fried pancakes found in homes and markets

between the two cultures rather than simply

throughout the country, alongside zucchini and

juxtaposing recognisable symbols.”

shrimp. Chicken Duo draws on another familiar

The same principle runs through Kang’s

pleasure, combining grilled chicken glazed with

cooking. His understanding of Korean cuisine

black vinegar and mushroom duxelle with a

was shaped in part by mentors including Cho

fried version, reflecting Korea’s affection for

Hee-sook, known as the Godmother of Korean

both preparations. Elsewhere, Angus short rib

cuisine, and Buddhist nun, Jeong Kwan. Both

is served ssam style, accompanied by lettuce,

encouraged him to look beyond familiar flavours

perilla, sauces and garnishes, so that diners

to the broader foundations of the nation’s

assemble each mouthful themselves.

cuisine, from namul (seasoned vegetable

French produce appears throughout. Seasonal

dishes) and jangajji (pickled vegetables) to

fruit and endive are paired with kimchi, while

kimchi, preservation and fermentation.

jang is woven into every course, eventually

“If French cuisine has its mother sauces,

reaching dessert. Kang’s most famous sweet

I believe jang plays that same role in Korean

treat, Jang Trio, is the showstopper, combining

food,” says Kang. The fermented pastes are not

crème brûlée and vanilla ice cream with

treated as decorative accents, but as structural

gochujang powder and crisp rice coated in

elements. And although some early descriptions

ganjang, an umami-laden soy sauce.

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Champagne forms another important part of

Kang will continue to live in Seoul rather than

the concept. Rather than treating it solely as

relocating permanently to Paris, making the

an aperitif, the beverage programme positions

team particularly important to the restaurant’s

it throughout the meal, matching its acidity

long-term success. Four chefs form the core

and texture with the flavours, spice and umami

team: Young-sil, who has spent almost 20

of Kang’s dishes. “I want to show just how

years at Park Hyatt, and Nam Sunwoong,

naturally Korean food and champagne can come

Kim Hyeyeon and Kim Yujin, all of whom

together,” says the chef.

have previously worked with Kang at Mingles

Sparkling wines are served by the glass and

and bring experience from France or other

bottle, with a focused offering from Billecart-

destinations in Europe. Kang plans to remain

Salmon, Bollinger, Krug, Laurent-Perrier and

closely involved with the operation from Seoul,

Ruinart. Dom Pérignon, with whom Kang has a

while giving the Paris team room to develop

long-standing relationship, receives particular

Seok’s identity.

attention, its selection ranging from recent vintages to the extended-aged 2008 P2.

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The real measure of success will be whether Seok attracts not only international guests but

Cocktails similarly combine familiar forms

also earns a place in Parisian dining life, an

with Korean ingredients, while a dedicated

ambition echoing Kang’s more personal starting

selection of premium Korean sool (artisanal

point: “I just hope the restaurant becomes a

alcoholic tipples) broadens the offering.

home which locals can trust and return to.”

These include Wooranguissal Cheongju, a

As Bergareche concludes: “A great hotel

clear fermented rice wine; makgeolli, a milky

restaurant today should not simply be a

rice wine; and Hwayo 25, 41 and X Premium,

restaurant located inside a hotel; it should

distilled rice spirits of differing strengths.

contribute to the life of the city.”

IN A BITE Operator: Hyatt Interior Design: Hugo Toro Architecture Executive Chef: Mingoo Kang F&B Manager: Cesar Santelia Villar www.hyatt.com

Calluna Saltmoore NORTH YORKSHIRE North Yorkshire’s varied landscape provides inspiration for a new fine-dining destination, where every dish tells a story of people and produce. Words: Catherine Martin • Photography: © Eva-Lili

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hether travelling by road or rail, the journey to

Maddock, who joined Saltmoore under Consultant Chef

Saltmoore captures the best of North Yorkshire,

Tommy Banks, and now takes the helm following Banks’

where rolling farmland and heather-draped moors

planned departure. As Executive Chef, Maddock oversees all

give way to rugged cliffs and sandy shores. It’s a fitting

the hotel’s dining venues – a role that builds on experience

introduction to a destination where the landscape is never far

gained in some of the UK’s leading kitchens, from training

from view, and where it shapes more than just the scenery.

with the Tanner brothers in his hometown of Plymouth,

Perfectly positioned between the Yorkshire Coast and the

to stints at Gidleigh Park in Devon, Whatley Manor in

North York Moors, the nature-led retreat is set within an

the Cotswolds and Driftwood in Cornwall. Most recently,

85-acre estate close to the seaside town of Whitby. Having

Maddock served as Head Chef at The Fife Arms in the Scottish

changed hands a number of times through the 2010s, the

Highlands, before a chance conversation with a supplier led

former hotel – known as Raithwaite Sandsend – was in need

him to North East England and the opportunity to develop

of investment, both to upgrade the existing facilities and to

an F&B programme from the ground up.

realise the full potential of the site. Seizing an opportunity, it

“When I first visited the estate, it was a building site –

was acquired by London-based property developers Galliard

there wasn’t even a kitchen,” Maddock reflects, speaking

Homes and O’Shea Group, who then set about repositioning

to Supper just a few hours before Calluna’s preview night.

the asset with a new identity and full redesign. The first

“With nothing to go on, you really have to believe in the idea

phase, comprising 43 guestrooms, a brasserie, lounge bar

you’re being sold.”

and spa within Saltmoore House, opened in late 2024, while

From the outset, the vision was to create a destination

2025 brought The Beach House, with 29 guestrooms and a

hotel with multiple dining options, each catering to a

pizzeria. Now, the launch of a fine-dining restaurant adds a

different guest profile yet remaining deeply rooted to its

new dimension to the culinary offering.

setting. The brasserie serves classic dishes using North

Named after the heather that blankets the surrounding

Yorkshire produce, while the pizzeria is a more casual

moorland, Calluna draws on its natural setting, with a

affair, where authentic Italian flavours are presented with a

sense of place that informs everything from the interiors to

local sensibility. And though Maddock has relished devising

the ingredients. The concept has been developed by Adam

all-day dining menus and perfecting his slow-fermented

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Every dish tells a story of the region, from the Baron Bigod served atop a Yorkshire tea cake, to the sourdough made using cask ale from Black Sheep Brewery

072

sourdough pizza base, it’s Calluna that has offered the

Moors, paired with the warm and inviting charm that defines

freedom to express his creativity.

Yorkshire hospitality.”

The concept has been two years in the making, giving

At Calluna, it’s the moors that set the tone: limewashed

time to seek out local suppliers, experiment with ingredients

walls and organic textures evoke the rugged landscape,

and assess evolving market conditions. “When it comes to

while natural stoneware brings a sense of rustic simplicity.

fine dining, people aren’t just going out for dinner, they

As daylight fades, atmospheric lanterns and flickering

want an experience,” Maddock explains. “They want to be

candlelight cast a warm glow, creating a cosy refuge from

entertained and come away with more than a full belly.”

the wilds beyond. Although the restaurant opened two

This emphasis on experience prompted a rethink of the

years after the hotel’s launch, there’s clear visual cohesion

traditional restaurant set-up, so rather than being seated at

throughout. Antique furniture, for example, carries through

the table on arrival, diners move through different spaces as

from the public spaces, with select pieces featuring ironwork

the evening unfolds. The journey begins in the Lounge Bar

and barley-twist detailing that nods to the estate’s Victorian

with a welcome drink and introduction to the menu, before

heritage. The botanical theme continues through the work

moving to the Kitchen Counter, where opening snacks are

of florist April Rose, who returned to the estate with an eye-

served in full view of the chefs as they put the finishing

catching arrangement of dried branches, having previously

touches to each dish. From there, diners are taken to their

created the floral canopy in The Orangerie. Local sculptor

table for the remainder of the tasting menu. The six-seat

Emma Stothard also draws a connection between the spaces,

counter operates across four scheduled sittings throughout

crafting nest-like breadbaskets to complement the dramatic

the evening, totalling 24 covers with no table turns. The

gorse chandelier she designed for the lobby. For Maddock,

thinking behind this approach is twofold. “It means we have

such details play an important role in the overall experience.

greater control over the service,” Maddock explains, adding

“Calluna is about creating a restaurant that belongs here,” he

that the predetermined pace allows the kitchen team to

states. “We’re surrounded by an incredible landscape – the

coordinate tasks more effectively, with staffing requirements

coast, the moors – and we want that sense of place to run

planned accordingly. “Ultimately, it’s better for us as a

through everything we do.”

business, and for diners, it’s nice to experience the different

That philosophy, however, is most prevalent in the cuisine,

areas instead of being sat in the same space for two hours.”

and Maddock has been impressed by the variety of produce

Interiors throughout the hotel are designed by Sapin

on his doorstep. “I’ve never been so spoiled,” he laughs,

Studios and draw on the surrounding landscape to establish

pointing out that his previous roles have been in proximity

a distinct sense of place. “The goal was to create a beautiful

to coast or countryside, not both. “We’re very lucky to be

retreat that welcomes guests seeking a peaceful escape,

where we are and the opportunities that presents; writing

whether they’re visiting for an extended getaway or stopping

the menu becomes much easier.”

by for the day,” explains studio founder Maddie Sadler.

The 12-course tasting menu is devised around North

“While this project is a complete renovation, it remains

Yorkshire’s natural larder, celebrating people and produce

deeply connected to its proud Northern heritage, capturing

from across the region. Seasonality and a close network of

the beauty of the coastline and drama of the North York

farmers, fishermen, growers and gamekeepers are central

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The Mulgrave Estate venison is smoked over bell heather and served with black apple, celeriac and a rich elderberry balsamic

074

to the approach, with the menu evolving

stories behind the ingredients, alongside

throughout the year in response to the land’s

insights into the techniques and skills involved

harvest, the daily catch and the finest cuts of

in their preparation. The crab dish, for example,

meat. “Calluna allows us to really hone in on

is presented by Senior Sous Chef Callum Booth,

local producers; they dictate what we cook,”

who reveals that the crustaceans are supplied

Maddock explains, emphasising the importance

by his own family of fishermen, while Senior

of trusting their expertise to determine when

Chef De Partie Joe Cockerill describes how

ingredients are at their best. “The idea is to

the venison is smoked over bell heather then

source from as close to our surroundings as

topped with a rich elderberry balsamic. For

possible. We have our own kitchen garden and

Maddock, a highlight is the Fortune’s kipper,

forage through the woodland. Our kippers are

served with swede, pine and spruce tips. “I like

from Fortune’s – a smokehouse in Whitby that

taking humble or unexpected ingredients and

has been going since 1872 – and the venison

elevating them,” he explains. “Kipper aren’t

comes from Mulgrave Estate, just beyond the

usually found on a tasting menu, but they tell a

treeline. You can’t get more local than that.”

story of Whitby and its people.”

The provenance of ingredients has become

Every dish tells a story of the region in its own

an increasingly important consideration for

way. The sourdough is made using cask ale from

consumers in recent years, and Calluna caters

Black Sheep Brewery in Masham, and comes

to this through its set-up. The experience

with a hearty beef tea – a nod to Yorkshire’s

is designed to feel intimate and unhurried,

most famous brew. The bilberries that grow in

allowing the team to deliver a highly personal

great abundance across the moors are pickled

style of service. Chefs engage directly with

to add tang to a bite-sized mutton doughnut.

diners, presenting dishes and sharing the

And a generous wedge of Baron Bigod is given a

THE ORIGINAL

EST 1985

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local twist when served atop a spongy Yorkshire

to the table, finding opportunities to inject his

tea cake. The drinks pairing takes more of an

own personality along with elements of surprise.

international approach and includes wines from

Of note is his background in the travelling

Champagne, Tenerife and Santorini, expertly

funfair, which comes through in the four dessert

selected by Restaurant Manager and Head

courses. In Fermented Cherry & Meadowsweet,

Sommelier Gabriel Lee, though local flavours

the concentric layers recall the red-and-white

feature in the likes of a house-made cherry

spiral lollipops of childhood, while a side of

and meadowsweet soda, or the limited-edition

popping candy adds a playful finishing touch.

Whitby Gin, distilled with heather exclusively

Bringing the meal to a close, Pineapple Weed

for Calluna.

Canelés de Bordeaux offers a personal take on

The tableware adds another layer of regional

the retro rum and pineapple upside-down cake,

character. Plates, bowls and ramekins by My

while Pear & Juniper arrives as a fluffy cloud of

Giant Hands Made These and Rock Garden

candy floss. A final nod to the coastal setting

Ceramics take cues from the local landscape,

comes in the form of a wave-shaped plate on

with some pieces resembling the gritstone of

which the dessert is served. It’s this balance

the surrounding moors and others incorporating

of regional character and individual expression

sand collected from the beach. Eschewing the

that defines the experience. “Calluna has always

formal place settings traditionally associated

been about celebrating the place we call home –

with fine dining, cutlery is presented in a wooden

the Yorkshire coast, the surrounding moors and

block that remains on the table throughout the

the incredible producers who make this area so

12 courses, allowing diners to help themselves

special,” Maddock concludes. “It’s been a long

and reinforcing the relaxed approach to service.

time in the making, and now that it’s here, it’s

Maddock brings the same sense of informality

076

time to deliver.”

IN A BITE Owner: Galliard Homes, O’Shea Group Architecture: Holder Mathias Architects Interior Design: Sapin Studios Graphic Design: Duzi Studio Executive Chef: Adam Maddock Head Sommelier: Gabriel Lee www.saltmoore.co.uk

RH.COM/CONTRACT The May Fair Hotel, London, United Kingdom Photo Courtesy of Edwardian Hotels London

Gwynne Fidelity Hotel CINCINNATI A Beaux-Arts beauty in Ohio gets a makeover, with two new F&B venues inspired by the Gilded Age at its core. Words: Ayesha Khan • Photography: Courtesy of Fidelity Hotel

erched on the Ohio River, Cincinnati has long been a prosperous trading hub, its commercial success establishing it as home to some of America’s wealthiest

families. Perhaps one of the most famous was Alice Claypoole Gwynne, who married shipping and railroad magnate Cornelius Vanderbilt II, and went on to become a prominent philanthropists and patron of the arts. Gwynne was also an ardent architecture lover, and in 1913, she commissioned her cousin, Earnest Flagg, to build a 13-storey landmark on Main Street, naming it after her beloved father, well-known judge Abraham Evan Gwynne. Once erected, the handsome tower became the original headquarters of Procter & Gamble, but just a few decades later, it had fallen into disrepair. It was only in recent years, when it caught the attention of Texas hotel developers, New Waterloo, that restoration began, and it was transformed into the 165-room Fidelity Hotel. Today, the hotel has undergone another multi-milliondollar refurbishment, this time to carefully restore the building’s original Beaux-Arts architecture. Historic character intact, the interiors have also been refreshed, with two street-facing dining outlets adding to the city’s booming business district.

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The menu at Gwynne merges contemporary American and Gilded Age French-American techniques

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To tell the design story, New Waterloo teamed

developed by Executive Pastry Chef Jamie Jones.

up with Dallas-based Looney & Associates. “As

“This is the most beautiful building I’ve ever

this is an adaptive re-use project, we started

worked in, so I wanted to do it justice,” she says

with the existing architecture,” says Senior

of the evolving menu, which features period

Designer Adam Behm. “We wanted to dress the

classics like coffee cake alongside delicate tarts

interior so that it’s in dialogue with the exterior,

and a range of freshly baked croissants.

while ensuring it doesn’t become a time piece.”

Across the building’s original vaulted arcade

When it came to conceiving the dining outlets,

sits Gwynne, the hotel’s signature restaurant

the studio looked to European influences. “The

and cocktail lounge. “Alice was our muse, says

aim was to introduce a French sensibility

Behm. “She was well travelled and a great lover

without being overtly thematic or feeling out

of colour and the arts. So, when creating the

of place in the local context,” Behm states, in

space, we thought about what it might look like

reference to Cora’s All Day Café. “We refer to it

if she inhabited it.”

as the ‘marché’, because we want it to feel like

The result is a bistro-brasserie beset in deep

a Parisian market café that activates the corner

red tones and polished woods, with nods to other

of the building and is accessible to locals.”

prominent women of Cincinnati adorning the

Glass fronted on both Main Street and 6th,

walls, from Alice’s daughter Gertrude, whose

Cora’s windows are lined with wares from local

portrait sits behind the bar, to famed painter

makers, including Cincinnati’s iconic ceramics

Elizabeth Nourse, whose artwork inspired a

house Rookwood Pottery, which was founded

striking, custom-commissioned Kyle Bunting

in 1880 and became a prominent feature of

mural that holds court in the dining room.

the retail scene. Inside, coffee complements

Rookwood Pottery features here too, this time

an entirely baked-in-house array of pastries

in ceramic tiles that line the wainscoting.

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Given this picturesque canvas, Director of

bar anchors the room. Here, Bilski and his team

Food & Beverage Nick Bilski chose to layer a

take guests on a journey from Cincinnati to

similar narrative through the gourmet offering.

Kentucky. There’s an extensive bourbon list,

“I wanted it to remain local but with a fun

while best-selling cocktails include 6th & Main,

French twist,” he says. “So, we looked at what

an interpretation of an espresso martini that

goods were coming up on the river during the

combines Wild Turkey bourbon, cold brew,

Gilded Age and how we could tell that story.”

coffee liqueur and Buffalo Trace Bourbon Cream

After pondering the challenge for months, the

foam. Another highlight is The Gwynne Heiress,

concept eventually took shape with the help of

made from the hotel’s Castle & Key single barrel

Brad Bernstein, a well-known face on the city’s

bourbon, along with black cherry, tobacco

dining scene who was appointed Executive Chef.

bitters and a final flourish of smoke.

“Most items on the menu reference the river

Embodying the refinement of a worldly,

trade of the period,” Bilksi notes. “A lot of

prosperous heiress combined with the humility

produce came directly from New Orleans, so

of America’s agrarian Appalachian region, and

French dishes via Appalachia are prominent.”

tying it up with cosmopolitan flair befitting of

Staples include pommes dauphine with truffle

a city once nicknamed the ‘Paris of America’

aioli, lobster bisque with seafood quenelle,

was no small task. But with the help of the

and seared duck breast with puy lentils and

local community and one of the city’s most

marchand de vin. Seasonality plays a large part

prominent culinary talents, Fidelity has

in the selection, with the majority of ingredients

managed to take guests and locals alike on an

sourced from small local suppliers in and around

immersive journey into its bygone world. As

the Ohio River Valley.

Bilski concludes: “We’ve put something on the

In the adjacent cocktail lounge, an impressive

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table that Cincinnati simply didn’t have before.”

IN A BITE Owner: New Waterloo Architecture: PWWG Architects Interior Design: Looney & Associates Art Consultant: Soho Art Consulting F&B Director: Nick Bilski Executive Chef: Brad Bernstein Beverage Manager: Lee Caldwell Tableware: Steelite Dinnerware: RAK Porcelain www.fidelityhotels.com

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Mor Carbis Bay Hotel CORNWALL Michelin-starred chef Tom Sellers brings his magic touch to Cornish shores, creating a restaurant that explores the space where land and sea collide. Words: Abby Lowe • Photography: Courtesy of HiStory Hospitality

he wind-blasted southwestern corner of

Tom Anglesea, Group Executive Chef of

the UK boasts some of the most spectacular

Sellers’ restaurant group, HiStory Hospitality,

train rides in the country. Skirting

has swapped London for Cornwall to oversee

coastlines that bend and curve according to the

the Mor kitchen, an opportunity he admits was

tides, dramatic landscapes whizz past in a blur.

hard to resist, despite his first site visit being

But even seasoned travellers are left stunned

on a bleakly cold January day. “Even then, I

by the scenes that unfold through the window

knew it was special,” he explains. “The clarity

between the tiny local stations of St Erth and

of the water and the cleanliness of the sand is

Carbis Bay, as tufty dunes blend with swathes

just something else. Culinarily speaking, it’s an

of white sand and the crashing waves beyond in

exciting project for the whole group. It’s great

a breathtaking display of Cornwall’s untamed

to have a different concept under our umbrella.”

natural beauty.

Sellers recently parted ways with Dovetale,

It’s against this backdrop, on what’s

a venue he launched at 1 Hotel Mayfair in

considered one of the UK’s best beaches (yes,

2023, paving the way for expansion into

they exist), that Carbis Bay Hotel has recently

new territories. An announcement citing a

unveiled Mor, a restaurant conceived by two-

collaboration with Stoke Park followed, which

Michelin-starred Tom Sellers, a culinary

sees the team open five F&B concepts at the

wunderkind who gained his first accolade at

Buckinghamshire estate in the coming months.

the tender age of 26. Taking its name from

With multiple projects on the go, the chef has

the Cornish word for sea, Mor pays tribute

entrusted Anglesea with bringing the Mor vision

to the abundance of the local larder, finding

to life. “Working with Tom is a partnership,”

inspiration in the cold Atlantic waters that

Anglesea says. “He brings ideas, or sprinkles, as

thrash the county’s coastal crevices and the

he calls them, and then we take it from there.”

fertile lands that flourish because of the region’s renowned microclimates.

Faced with a beautiful beachside space and a blank canvas, Anglesea began by ruling out

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Sharing dishes at Mor are inspired by the bounty of produce locally available in Cornwall

what he didn’t want for the restaurant. “I was set on

each day – from garlic bulbs as large as fists from a

avoiding fine dining and tasting menus,” he confirms,

nearby organic farm, to 40kg of walnuts that were

mirroring the trend that’s been building pace across

offered up by a specialised local grower. He marvels

the industry. “I wanted it to be casual and fun, so that

too, at the passion displayed by some purveyors,

we would still get that all-important spend but on a

particularly Plymouth-based Jamie Kirkcaldy, a free

more approachable basis.” Cornwall’s abundance of

diver who harvests seafood by hand. “He catches

produce was another creative catalyst. “There are so

scallops without equipment, makes sure they’re

many fantastic suppliers on our doorstep here,” the

uniformly packaged, then unpacks them himself one

chef adds. “It gives us an incredible bounty to work

by one,” Anglesea laughs. “They taste just incredible.”

with. So of course, we had to dip into that.”

Though the menu is high-end in scope, there’s

What emerged is a menu that ebbs and flows with

an informality at work that pairs well with both

the regularity of the tides, evolving to showcase the

Cornwall’s barefoot lifestyle and the wider Carbis Bay

best of what’s available each day. Anglesea then adds

Estate ethos, and it ripples throughout every facet of

nuance with subtle Asian influences, using tricks he

the restaurant. Service is warm and unpretentious,

picked up on stints working at esteemed venues in

perhaps in large part because most of the brigade are

Sydney and New York. “I’ve always had a lot of Asian

locals – a plus point in an area of the UK that frequently

influences in my cooking, but it pairs so beautifully

struggles with a lack of jobs and the complications of

with the produce we have available to us here,” he

overtourism. “We have a lot of green members of staff,

explains. “A spicy dressing or a splash of soy added

and this is their first job in hospitality,” Anglesea says.

with a light touch really makes a difference to a dish.”

“But we pick based on personality and then we teach

The results leap from the plate in their vividness.

the rest. It’s great to be involved in the community in

Think bang bang squid salad with sesame, chilli and

that sense, and actually it’s the locals who are often

peanut; smoked Mora Farm tomatoes with chilled

the best recruits.”

dashi; and spatchcock barbeque quail skewer with

The same considered casualness trickles down to the

salted chilli and lime. Small and designed to be shared,

room itself, which, with sea-facing, floor-to-ceiling

other dishes include sweetcorn and prawn ‘porridge’

windows, could have relied on its striking setting for

with white miso and sage; braised cuttlefish San

impact, but instead has become a tactile space that

Marzano; and salt, pepper and vinegar mushrooms

avoids the usual coastal cliches (there’s no navy or

with West Cornwall garlic butter. Elsewhere, a fish

rope in sight) in favour of layered texture and a sense

counter allows guests to take their pick from the catch

of movement.

of the day, delicate Cornish crab is served elaborately

Shayne Brady was enlisted for the project, and

tableside, and ‘One Breath Scallops’ set the bar for all

confirms that capturing the spirit of Cornwall, not

scallop experiences henceforth.

replicating a postcard version of it, was always at

What underscores every plate is a deep connection

the forefront of his mind. “Tom’s menus explore

to the region’s suppliers and an expansive network

the relationship between land and sea, and the brief

that continues to grow. Anglesea excitedly describes

was to give that philosophy a physical language in

the buzz of working with whatever lands in the kitchen

the room,” the designer explains. “Nothing is there

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simply because it looks good; it’s there because

“If people remember the atmosphere at Mor as

it supports the story we are telling.”

much as the food itself, then we’ve achieved

The tale unfurls using ombré tones in the

A plethora of positive reviews seem to already

bar, each depicting Cornwall’s morphing

confirm the fact, making it highly likely that

sand and skies, alongside natural timber and

Anglesea’s long-term goal for Mor to open year-

stone throughout. A fabric ceiling installation

round will eventually come to pass. “Ultimately,

adds softness while evoking the fluidity of

that’s why the menu is so varied,” he says.

the coastline outside, and a Cornish granite

“You can have a splash-out meal, but you can

fireplace gives the interior a direct connection

also come and take it easy – that’s because we

to the place itself. “It’s these details, alongside

want to cater to the summer tourists, but once

the bespoke joinery, furniture and artwork from

they’ve gone home, we really want to engage

local makers that together make the room feel

the local crowd as well. It’s important for us to

specific to Carbis Bay rather than transplantable

become part of the community.”

anywhere,” Brady notes. “We let the place and the story lead the design.”

088

what we set out to do,” Brady confirms.

dining room and a palette of rich reds in the

Personally, Anglesea is already halfway there, having temporarily left behind the daily grind

Lighting plays a vital role too, with much of

associated with the hectic rhythms of London

the heavy lifting done by the shifting natural

and adjusted to the pace of a slower, seaside

light that reflects off the sea’s surface and beams

existence. “I’m staying in a cottage in Lelant,

in through the windows: scintillating blue by

which is the next village along, and so far I’ve

day, the colour of claret wine by night. Even so,

been walking to work,” he says. “It’s been

bespoke lamps, ceiling fixtures and the gentle

invigorating, to be honest. Life here is good for

presence of candlelight all enhance the mood.

the soul.”

IN A BITE Owner & Operator: Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate Interior Design: Shayne Brady Studio Lighting Design: Studio Shayne Brady, Atelier Lighting Chef Patron: Tom Sellers Executive Chef: Tom Anglesea www.carbisbayhotel.co.uk

DINING

Burning Bright Chefs worldwide are reinterpreting ancient fire techniques to enhance flavour, honour ingredients and create meaningful, fine-dining experiences. Words: Holly Motion

ooking over fire pre-dates

techniques once associated with everyday

civilisation itself. From the

cooking and communal gatherings are finding

open-flame asados of the

a new place in some of the world’s finest hotel

South American Pampas, the

dining rooms.

subterranean earth ovens of

Argentina’s asado tradition remains one of

Polynesia and the glowing

the most powerful expressions of the age-old

charcoal of Japan’s robatayaki, the primal

alliance between cook and fire. Originating

element has shaped culinary traditions for

among the gauchos who roamed the country’s

millennia. However, as professional kitchens

open plains, the asado evolved from a practice of

have evolved over the years, the relationship

slowly cooking large cuts of meat over blazing

between human and flame has changed, and

timber into a communal ritual, where the

now, open hearths largely give way to gas

preparation of the meal became as important

ranges, induction hobs and sous-vide – all in

as the food itself.

pursuit of ever greater precision and control.

Few modern chefs have done more to bring

But that exchange is shifting once again, with

this tradition to a global audience than James

a growing number of restaurants reinterpreting

Beard Award-winning chef, Francis Mallmann.

the ancient art as a way of reconnecting guests

Through seven distinct expressions of fire –

with the ingredients, landscapes and traditions

from the iconic Parrilla (the Open Grill), to

that have endured across generations. Today,

the Chapa (the Flat Iron) and the Asador (the

DINING

Flame is used to lend a sweet smokiness to ingredients at Sumi at Janu Tokyo (top) and Hearth at Heckfield Place (bottom)

Vertical Cross) – Mallmann has transformed the way chefs understand the metamorphic effects that sparks and embers can have on produce. His stripped-back approach puts flavour at the fore, while flames and smoke become part of the dining experience itself. In 2016, this approach was brought to an international audience at Los Fuegos, Mallmann’s first permanent restaurant outside Argentina, housed within Alan Faena’s flamboyant Faena Miami Beach. “At Los Fuegos, fire is much more than a technique; it is the heart of what we do,” explains Sebastián Benítez, Director of Culinary Operations at the hotel. “Mallmann’s philosophy teaches us to cook with patience,

“Fire is more than a technique; it is the heart of what we do. It brings emotion to cooking, creating a unique experience that connects people with one of the oldest ways of preparing food.” SEBASTIÁN BENÍTEZ, LOS FUEGOS

of palatability. Henson points to wood-roasted onions with Vesuvio tomatoes and walnut agresto, where time in the cinders draws out sweetness while still preserving the vegetable’s character. As produce from the Market Garden changes from week to week – sometimes day to day – so too does Hearth’s menu, allowing the fire respond to the seasons. In Dubai, Portuguese chef José Avillez drew on his homeland’s long-standing tradition of cooking over fire, alongside the informal neighbourhood taverns woven into the country’s social fabric, when he created Tasca at Mandarin Oriental Jumeira. Opened in 2019, Tasca’s interpretation of Portuguese flavours – ranging from Atlantic seafood to contemporary takes

intuition and respect for the process, because

on the country’s culinary heritage – earned

every fire is different - that’s what makes it

one star in the inaugural Michelin Guide three

special. For us, fire brings emotion to cooking,

years later, a marker of how far fire cooking

creating a unique experience that connects

has evolved from an everyday tradition into

people with one of the oldest and most natural

contemporary fine dining. For the restaurant’s head chef José Barroso,

ways of preparing food.” If Los Fuegos captures the elemental

it is essential to first understand the intricacies

spirit and sense of togetherness conjured by

of each ingredient, and then, to know when

the asado, Hearth at Heckfield Place in the

to intervene. “Cooking over fire is always an

UK countryside explores a more intimate,

intentional choice,” he explains. “We select ingredients that develop greater depth through

understated relationship with fire. Set within an 18th-century Georgian mansion, the restaurant

kitchen today, where fire draws depth and

caramelisation and delicate smokiness, while

takes its name from the traditional hearth that

texture from crops grown and gathered from

still preserving their freshness and natural

was once considered the centre of the home. In

the hotel’s 438-acre estate.

character,” he adds. “Many of our grilled

the past, it is where gathering, cooking and the

“As the restaurant has evolved, our

seafood dishes and carefully selected cuts

rhythms of daily life unfolded around the steady

understanding of the hearth has become

of meat reflect this philosophy – the flame

warmth of crackling flames.

more instinctive, but the principles remain

enhances rather than defines the flavour.”

The restaurant was conceived by the late Skye

unchanged,” explains Culinary Director Eleanor

Across the Pacific, Japanese fire cooking is

Gyngell, whose ingredient-led philosophy at

Henson. “So, seasonality, restraint and allowing

a study in meticulous restraint, with charcoal

Petersham Nurseries helped redefine modern

exceptional ingredients to speak for themselves

acting as both cooking medium and flavour

British cooking. Rather than celebrating

is key.”

source. For centuries, techniques such as

spectacle, Gyngell envisioned the hearth as

While cooking over open flames is most

yakitori, robatayaki and unagi kabayaki have

a means of revealing the natural character

often associated with large cuts of meat,

refined the relationship between chef, heat and

of seasonal produce, allowing gentle heat

many of today’s fire-led kitchens apply the

ingredient, with precise control of temperature,

and smoke to enhance the nuances of each

same approach to vegetables and fruit. At

timing and distance utilised in the creation of

ingredient. That philosophy still guides the

Hearth, embers coax out a quieter expression

each dish.

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“Cooking over fire is an intentional choice. We select ingredients that develop greater depth over flame.” JOSÉ BARROSO, TASCA

Riverside Kitchen & Bar at Hotel Indigo Hakone Gora carefully sources Japanese cypress and oak for its wood-fire cooking

094

At Sumi, the signature restaurant at Janu

Beyond Tokyo, in Japan’s mountainous

Tokyo, this is reinterpreted through a kaiseki-

Kanagawa Prefecture, Riverside Kitchen & Bar

inspired dining experience built around

at Hotel Indigo Hakone Gora offers a different

binchotan – the dense white charcoal prized for

interpretation, pairing traditional Japanese

its intense, steady heat – with chefs working

hearth techniques with French culinary

directly in front of guests.

influences. Here, locally sourced Japanese

The menu explores different expressions of

cypress (hinoki) and oak (nara) are chosen with

fire, including warayaki, a traditional technique

as much care and attention as the ingredients

from Kochi Prefecture in which burning rice

cooked over them. “We are committed to the

straw at extremely high temperatures creates

choice of wood we make,” explains Executive

an intense flame for searing. Typically used for

Chef Kei Sakamoto. “The appeal of wood-fire

bonito, Sumi reinterprets the method with richly

cooking extends far beyond adding smoky

marbled bluefin tuna, gently rendering excess

aromas. The type of wood, its moisture content,

fat while imparting smokiness and preserving

the intensity of the fire and the distance from

the tenderness of the flesh.

the flame are all carefully controlled. It is these

The immersive method also brings another

subtle yet calculated adjustments that determine

sensory dimension to the dining experience. “At

the texture and doneness of each ingredient.”

the counter, guests are exposed to the cooking

Perhaps it is this interplay that lies at the

process up close, engaging all five senses,”

heart of live-fire cooking’s enduring appeal:

Director of Food & Beverage Tomonori Iwao

chefs can master ancestral techniques, but the

explains. “The warmth of the charcoal, the

flame can never be entirely controlled. And

aroma of smouldering straw and the crackling

when it comes to both flavour and spectacle,

sound all become an integral part of the meal.”

the sense of ceremony is unmatched.

Bespoke products for front-of-house

www.rewthink.co.uk

A Taste of Home Chef José Pizarro returns to his Spanish homeland for a collaboration with Iberostar to celebrate the abundance of Tenerife produce. Words: Hannah Currie Photography: © Alberto Díaz Acuña - Lanstrum (unless otherwise stated)

milestones

starred El Mesón de Doña Filo on the outskirts

have sparked a new wave of

significant

of Madrid, he moved to London, working at

collaborative culinary creativity in

Gaudi and Eyre Brothers before being recruited

Tenerife: Iberostar celebrates the

as a chef partner for Brindisa. His first solo

25th anniversary of Joia El Mirador,

outing, José, opened on Bermondsey Street in

while chef José Pizarro marks 15

2011, followed by Pizarro and Lolo, named after

years since opening his first London restaurant.

his childhood nickname. In 2023, he expanded

To toast the occasion, the two parties kicked

internationally with José by Pizarro at Conrad

off a longer-term partnership with an exclusive

Abu Dhabi, with more recent work including a

dinner at the 126-key Costa Adeje resort,

partnership with P&O Cruises.

showcasing local produce through Pizarro’s signature Spanish cuisine.

096

Meanwhile, Iberostar, a Spanish familyowned business with more than 100 hotels

For the chef, restaurateur and author who’s

across three continents, has placed gastronomy

often dubbed the godfather of Spanish cooking

increasingly at the centre of guest experience in

in the UK, the collaboration represents Pizarro’s

recent years. Concurrently, a strategic alliance

first partnership of this kind in Spain and a long-

with IHG Hotels & Resorts saw up to 70 of its

awaited return to home territory. Originally

beachfront resorts added to IHG’s system under

from Talaván, a rural village near Cáceres in

the Iberostar Beachfront Resorts brand in 2022,

Extremadura, the chef has spent almost 30 years

while the portfolio was subsequently organised

in England, where he has played a significant

into three segments: Iberostar Waves, Iberostar

role in shaping national appreciation of his

Selection and Joia by Iberostar - the latter taking

native cuisine. After training at restaurants

its name from the Spanish word joya, meaning

near home and becoming head chef at Michelin-

jewel, to reflect its position within the portfolio.

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“We start with the producer and season and let the ingredient lead. José has built his career on the same principle, so it felt like a shared philosophy.” TERESA CATASÚS, IBEROSTAR BEACHFRONT RESORTS

Across all, cuisine is guided by what Iberostar

An emphasis on locality was particularly

stuffed croquettas follow, notably with bananas

touts as an Honest Food philosophy. The first

important to Pizarro, who admits that while he

picked that morning at Finca El Ancón folded

of its three key pillars centres on seasonal

knew about the abundant produce found on the

into the filling.

ingredients and how they are handled: kitchens

Canary Islands, he had not previously worked

“It’s all very simple,” Pizarro says of the

prepare dishes that are fresh and natural, with

so closely with it. In turn, rather than bringing

thinking behind the menu. “Everything we

low salt levels and no artificial colouring or

his own restaurant menus to Tenerife, he spent

do is about sustainability and staying local.”

refined sugars. Iberostar chefs favour cooking

time on the island to understand its culinary

Catasús expands on the effect of this at the

methods that preserve nutritional value,

context, and cook accordingly. The resulting

table. “Our ethos is built on a simple idea: food

including steaming, grilling and cooking in

menu served at the property’s fine-dining

should be fresh, natural and seasonal, prepared

a wok. Vegetables, plant-based proteins,

restaurant, El Cenador, is based on the chef’s

with care and respect, and with a connection

grass-fed meat, grains and seeds are given

established techniques yet designed around

to the destination wherever possible. We want

prominence, while breads, flours and desserts

Tenerife, taking a ‘root to stem’ approach that

guests to know what’s on their plate and where

are made in-house.

makes the provenance of its seasonal harvests

it came from. The ‘root to stem’ experience

part of the experience.

further expands the idea by showing guests the

The second pillar is responsibility, with the group placing emphasis on sustainable local

Producers in the spotlight include Finca

full journey from the estate to the plate, using

agriculture and responsible fish consumption.

El Ancón, a sustainable coastal estate in El

as much of each ingredient as possible.” Joia

That extends to respecting fishing bans

Rincón, La Orotava on the north of the island.

El Mirador General Manager, Marc Clement

intended to protect coastal health, as well as

The 20-hectare site sits above the volcanic

concurs: “The concept is one of conviction,

considering the environmental impact of what

shores of Playa del Ancón and produces crops

authenticity and warmth, creating moments

reaches the table. Finally, Iberostar draws on

including coffee, avocado, papaya, passion fruit

that are deeply connected to origin.”

culturally relevant recipes from around the

and bananas, all made available to Pizarro for

Despite this local feel, Pizarro’s British

world, using food as a way of connecting guests

menu inspiration. The accompanying wines

connections remain visible throughout, notably

with different destinations and traditions.

also came through Iberostar’s local network,

in a Canarian chorizo Scotch egg made with black

The similarities between these principles and

which includes Altos de Trevejos, a family-run

Iberian pork. Octopus follows, an ingredient

Pizarro’s work became apparent when he first

producer whose organic vineyards sit at around

that has become prevalent across his London

met the Iberostar team around two years ago,

1,300 metres on the volcanic slopes of Mount

menus and is also vital to the islands as a key

ahead of a slew of collaborative events. “We

Teide within the Abona Denomination of Origin.

species for artisanal fisheries. Here, it is served

just clicked,” the chef says. For Teresa Catasús,

The meal itself begins with bread from the

as a salad of watercress and tomatoes, quickly

Gastronomy Corporate Director at Iberostar

hotel bakery, made especially for the occasion,

followed by fresh local cherne, a prized deep-

Beachfront Resorts, the feeling was mutual. “At

alongside Iberian ham – the one ingredient

water white fish that is a staple of traditional

Joia El Mirador, gastronomy is central to the

Pizarro says he had to bring with him from

Canary Island gastronomy, accompanied by

guest experience. We start with the producer

Andalusia – and Canary Island cheeses from

corn and coriander.

and season and let the ingredient lead,” she

Quesería Montesdeoca. The Adeje producer,

The final savoury course draws on one of

explains. “José has built his career on the

established in 1984, remains family-run across

Pizarro’s longest-running signatures: high-

same idea, so this felt like a shared philosophy

three generations and has built its operation

quality pork served pink. “Twenty-five years

coming together.”

around mindful, sustainable production. Jamón

ago, I started putting raw cerdo ibérico on the

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DINING

“Coming to Tenerife is about celebrating our philosophy, gastronomy and life. There is no better way of doing that than with good food.” JOSÉ PIZARRO

The ‘root to stem’ menu served at El Cenador allows Pizarro to tell the story of local ingredients from estate to plate

menu in London. The British told me I was

that.” Pizarro sees the value in even broader

crazy, but once they tried the dish, it became

terms: “Coming here is about celebrating – our

a permanent fixture,” he reveals. In Tenerife,

philosophy, gastronomy and life. And there is

the presa cut is served medium rare with mojo

simply no better way of doing that than with

picón, the island’s spicy red pepper sauce,

good food.”

accompanied by papas arrugas, or traditional

With that in mind, the collaboration is

Canarian wrinkled potatoes coated in a fine

planned to continue into 2027, when Pizarro

white salt crust. The meal concludes with

will return to Joia El Mirador in April for another

two desserts carefully constructed from local

culinary experience. Longer term, Iberostar sees

ingredients: Canarian-style crème caramel

scope to take the partnership beyond a single

with figs and almonds, followed by Spanish

property, with further events across the wider

cheesecake.

estate and at Pizarro’s own restaurants. The

For Clement, having a chef so closely

intention, Catasús says, is “for the story of

associated with Spanish excellence in the UK

the food, the producers and the destinations to

gives the partnership a role beyond a single

reach even more guests”.

dinner, introducing Iberostar’s own culinary

“A new season means new ingredients and a

approach to a wider British audience. “It’s

different side of the partnership,” she predicts.

important to us that José is admired in the UK,”

“Over time, we hope the collaboration sets

he admits. “To be able to share our origins, our

the standard for gastronomy across the Joia

identity, our local food and roots with new

collection and informs the culinary experiences

customers, is key. We want to show Spanish

of our wider portfolio. Guests choose where to

cuisine to the world and do it in the best way

stay based on how well they will eat, and we

possible - José is an excellent partner to do

want food to be a reason for choosing us.”

100

www.cristel.com

BVCert. 6019453

Perfect for plate service

SIGNATURE Rhubarb, Shiso and Yoghurt Le VIII Château la Commaraine BURGUNDY

Rhubarb from Maison Vermès, Shiso and

The first type is Mira, a tart, green rhubarb

Yoghurt, a dish conceived by Rémi Guérin,

with deep vegetal notes. The second is Valentine,

Château la Commaraine’s Pastry Chef, is a

a softer, red variety with an almost candy-like

sweet celebration of local produce. Served in

character. Both are poached in syrup made from

the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant, Le VIII, the

the vegetable’s skins, while one is glazed with

dessert spotlights the work of local supplier,

a red rhubarb reduction, and the other is filled

Matthieu Vermès, a rhubarb specialist based in

with a shiso Fontainebleau and rhubarb gel. The

the Bay of Somme. “Vermès grows several dozen

duo is brought together by farmhouse yoghurt

varieties of the vegetable, offering a remarkable

sourced from La Fromagerie du Hameau, located

diversity of flavours and textures,” Guérin

just a few minutes from the Château, and green

explains. “I wanted our guests to discover the

shiso, adding aromatic flourish. “The delicate

distinct expressions through two varieties.”

aniseed notes of the Asian herb pair beautifully with the rhubarb,” Guérin confirms. Additional elements include a rhubarb brunoise, a sorbet made with two varieties of shiso, and a yoghurt siphon. A crystallised shiso leaf, made to mimic a piece of confectionery, adds the final extravagant touch. But first, an aperitif. “To prepare the guests’ palate for the dish, we first serve a glass of kefir made with red rhubarb skins,” Guérin says. “Then everything is presented on handcrafted tableware by Laura Maillard of Nautilus Ceramics and Cécile Martin of Atelier Entre Terres.”

SIGNATURE

South Coast Lobster The Woodcote WEST SUSSEX

A deep respect for ingredients has become

white charcoal that’s known for its smokeless

Nathan Cornwell’s culinary calling card, so it’s

heat. “This kind of coal is by far the best,”

no surprise to see that philosophy being baked

Cornwell explains. “It burns hotter for longer,

into the menus at The Woodcote, a restaurant

creating intense heat that seals in the lobster’s

with rooms in the South Downs National Park,

moisture, keeping it tender and juicy.” Once

where he’s been appointed Chef Director.

cooked, it’s presented with an aerated lobster

It’s particularly pertinent in the dish

hollandaise and sliced and pickled cucumber

South Coast Lobster, in which every part

grown on-site. Freshly picked herbs and flowers

of the crustacean is put to good use. “South

from the garden add the final touch.

Coast lobsters are exceptionally sweet and

The finished result belies the underlying

characterised by a muscular tail,” Cornwell

details. “I love how simple it looks, but there

explains. “So we use every part, including the

is a lot of thought that’s gone into each of

shells to make the accompanying hollandaise.”

the different elements,” Cornwell says. “The

Inspired by the eternal appeal of summertime

lobster’s colour is so vivid after it’s been grilled.

seaside barbecues, the lobster is butter-poached

It turns a bright fiery-red that provides intense

in a water bath, then barbecued on a yakitori

contrast against the cool green of the cucumber

grill using binchotan, an ultra-dense Japanese

and the herbs.”

APERITIFS

mid the surging global demand for

• A global competition puts the full bar team

agave-based spirits and cocktails, Patrón

at the centre and will roll out across multiple

tequila has launched Agave Masters,

countries worldwide. Teams choose their crew,

a new programme designed to deepen agave

their serve and the guest experience - bringing

knowledge and strengthen the global bar

the character of their bar and the culture of their

community. Encompassing the world’s only

city into a live showcase.

WSET accreditation dedicated entirely to the

• Members will receive access to masterclasses,

plant, the course puts that learning into practice,

mixology training, alongside insight into the

alongside year-round opportunities to connect

trends shaping the bar industry, with new

with industry professionals worldwide.

content added regularly.

Patrón has long believed that exceptional

• A like-minded global community connects

tequila is built through continued investment

bar professionals across every level of the

in people, time and craftsmanship. And at

trade, through a digital platform, live events

a time when much of the industry narrows

and partnerships, creating a network fostering

its investment into the on-trade, the Agave

continued learning and collaboration. For the concept’s winning teams, it all

Masters programme is a mark of that belief,

Agave Advocates Patrón tequila launches Agave Masters, a global advocacy programme built to raise the bar.

showcasing a long-standing commitment to the

culminates in a once-in-a-lifetime experience

bar community and the people it encompasses.

in Mexico: the inaugural Agave Masters Global

Bringing together Patrón Perfectionists, the

Summit held in Guadalajara, which features two

company’s global bartender competition, and

days of cultural events and community-building

Academia Patrón, its education platform, the

followed by a two-day immersion at Hacienda

new initiative creates a single home for the global

Patrón in the highlands of Jalisco. There, winners

bar industry. Built around education, community

witness the time-honoured, hand-crafted

and competition, the programme is free to join

tequila-making process, from the moment its

and open to anyone of legal drinking age who’s

100% Blue Weber agave is harvested at peak

part of a bar team, from bartender to bar back

ripeness to its subsequent journey through

or server. Designed for the people telling the

tahona and roller mill methods, and finally, to

story of agave, the training provides knowledge

fermentation and distillation.

and tools to talk about, serve and champion the

“There is truly nothing quite like the hospitality

category with confidence. The programme is

and bar community,” says Lauren Mote, Global

built on four pillars:

Director, Agave On-Trade and General Manager

• At the heart of the training is an accreditation

of Hacienda Patrón Brand Home. “Our industry

from WSET, the global gold standard for

is shaped by the people who create, make and

drinks education that is recognised in over 70

manage the drinks and experiences we all enjoy.

countries. The qualification gives bar experts the

At Patrón, we want to continue to be a genuine

opportunity to deepen their knowledge of the

partner to those within it, creating opportunities

category while earning a formal credential that

to learn from one another, build relationships

can be carried throughout a career.

and develop craft.”

107

APERITIFS

The Stage is Set As hotels continue to look beyond their own walls for ways to bring local culture into F&B spaces, Sprout at Miiro Templeton Garden in London is turning a neighbouring art show into a drinks menu in partnership with The Design Museum. The inspiration here is Other Worlds, a new exhibition by Es Devlin, who is known for transforming stages into immersive environments through sculpture, light and movement, drawing audiences into the worlds she creates. The stage designer has conceived creations for Beyoncé, Adele, U2 and The Weeknd, with work spanning the London Olympics, National Theatre and Royal Opera House. Her first European retrospective takes visitors inside the creative process, from early sketches to a recreation of her London studio, plus innovative installations. The bar team at Sprout has concocted three equally creative cocktails in response. Black Box to Spotlight is made with bourbon, coffee liqueur and touches of vanilla and chocolate, and serves as a tribute to transforming an empty stage into an unforgettable experience, while Forest of Voices echoes Devlin’s nature-focused projects, taking a greener route with gin and Chartreuse that’s brightened with apple juice, lemon and honey. Finally, there’s The Devilled Martini, a twist on the classic cocktail that is deceptively simple, combining gin,

House of Wine

dry vermouth, sake and a drop of orange bitters. Each libation is available at Sprout throughout the run, with anyone ordering a glass receiving complimentary entry to the exhibition next door.

The Savoy in London is tapping into the rising popularity of wine bars, strategically pivoting its Beaufort Bar into a dedicated discovery destination under the new name of Beaufort Wine Bar. Bringing together an expansive bottle list, a grape-led spirits selection and a food menu centred around sharing, the space puts wine firmly at the core of the experience while retaining the intimate character of its predecessor. The new venue will offer more than 250 wines from 18 countries spanning six continents, with what is billed as the UK’s largest wineby-the-glass programme. Half of the cellar will be available as individual pours using Coravin technology, giving guests the opportunity to discover rare, vintage and contemporary options without committing to a full bottle. Encompassing 50 years of history, the collection includes vintages from 1975 to 2025, from First Growth Bordeaux and Grand Cru Burgundy to mature champagnes and lesser-known regional discoveries. The spirits list is also wine led, focusing exclusively on grape-based spirits, alongside a selection of gastronomic wine cocktails featuring Cognac, grappa and pisco. The food menu has been created to sit naturally alongside the beverages, with a focus on produce-led dishes. A tableside experience will see cured meats and hand-carved Jamón Ibérico served from a custom-made flywheel slicer trolley, with a selection of artisan cheeses also available. Leading the new direction is Head Sommelier Romain Audrerie, who brings more than 15 years of international experience to the concept, having been part of the opening team at Chiltern Firehouse before becoming Global Wine Director for André Balazs Properties. His approach focuses on making wine feel inviting and accessible, whether guests arrive with a deep knowledge on the subject or simply want to discover something new.

108

Born from Celebration, Crafted for Smoothness. The tequila that speaks for itself. No burn. No after-burn. Five generations of agave craft from the highlands of Mexico.

https://mesatequila.com

APERITIFS

Bush Bar

Live On Air

When A&K founder Geoffrey Kent introduced mobile tented camps to

Mr Lyan Studio, the drinks and hospitality consultancy founded by

the Kenyan bush in the 1960s, he ensured guests could always enjoy

mixologist and hotel bar connoisseur Ryan Chetiyawardana, aka Mr

a refrigerated glass of champagne after a day in the wilderness. As

Lyan, has taken its Studio Lates event series into the digital space,

the animals settled and the light faded, the ritual became known as

with the launch of a brand new podcast.

a sundowner. Now, to celebrate the launch of Kitirua Plains Lodge in

The educational yet fun talks programme has become known

the Amboseli region, part of A&K’s collection of luxury safari camps

for delving into conversations around flavour and creativity in

and lodges across Africa, the group has partnered with Globe-Trotter

hospitality, with hosts Chetiyawardana and writer and academic Anna

to create the Sundowner Trunk, a bespoke safari bar.

Sulan Masing drawing on their vast network of industry contacts to

Handcrafted in England at Globe-Trotter’s Hertfordshire workshop, the chest combines an oak-inspired exterior with

while revealing how to be innovative in the space.

vulcanised fibreboard. Leather straps and brass detailing take cues

Now produced with Lucy Dearlove and in partnership with Fever

from the brand’s Centenary Collection, while inside, 22 leather-lined

Tree, the podcast continues this dialogue in a freshs format, with

compartments contain cocktail glasses, bottles, tiffin trays and bar

episodes bringing together faces from across the industry.

accessories. The lid is finished with a screen-printed Globe-Trotter and Kitirua Plains Lodge insignia.

110

explore the current state of the culinary and hospitality landscapes,

The first outing explores the often overlooked kitchen staples of salt and vinegar, with Gregorie Marshall of Blackthorn Salt, Maddy

Guests can sample the delights of the trunk at viewpoints over

Norval of Dornoch Craft Vinegar, and author Angela Clutton. The

Amboseli and Mount Kilimanjaro, or commission one to take

second episode, Taking the Terror out of Terroir, turns its attention to

home. To mark the launch, A&K Sanctuary teamed up with Kenyan

wine, with bar owner and author Sunny Hodge; the third installment,

mixologist Annette Mulam to create Kito La Kitirua, a Swahili phrase

Heritage & Deliciousness, offers insight from cider and perry maker

meaning Jewel of Kitirua. The gin and tonic riff combines sage and

Tom Oliver; and episode four features chef Chet Sharma of Bibi in

cardamom syrup, jalapeño brine and a spice blend inspired by the

Mayfair, London.

savannah’s tree tomatoes. Made with Procera gin, its soft pink hue

The new podcast marks just the latest move into the online world

echoes the sunset colours guests admire as they savour each sip.

for Mr Lyan Studio, a business blending the creative and strategic

“Since 1962, the day’s last light has meant the same thing on an

capabilities of an innovation consultancy with the insight, expertise

A&K safari: the vehicles stop, the glasses come out and the bush goes

and influence gained during nearly 20 years in the bar and drinks

quiet around you,” says Chief Brand Officer, Peter Chipchase. “We’ve

industry. In 2025, Chetiyawardana also launched Mr Lyan’s Taste

always believed the world’s greatest safari deserves the world’s

Trips, a YouTube series exploring cities around the world through

greatest bar, and in Globe-Trotter we found the people to build it.”

their beverage cultures.

Setting The (Mini) Bar Hotels are rethinking the traditional mini-bar, moving beyond familiar drinks and snacks to offer a more considered, profitable guest experience.

Words: Millie Milliken

t The Fife Arms in Aberdeenshire’s

This style of mini-bar is a far cry from the

picturesque village of Braemar,

humming fridges filled with big-brand products

each of the 47 guestrooms has

found in guestrooms across the globe, yet it

been individually designed.

is becoming increasingly common. At Andaz

Some take cues from local

Toranomon Hills in Tokyo, guests are more

history or use natural materials

likely to find red-bean snacks and a traditional

to reflect the surroundings, while others lean

Japanese tea set than a KitKat and instant

into Victoriana. And though every stay is

coffee sachets. New York’s Fifth Avenue Hotel,

different, one detail remains consistent: the

meanwhile, is lauded for its extensive in-room

generous mini-bar.

offering, where high-end spirits come as a

On arrival, guests are treated to a half-bottle

complimentary perk. And at Fauchon L’Hôtel

of champagne and a tipple from the hotel’s

in Paris, the Gourmet Bar is filled with premium

spirits cabinet, as well as handmade chocolates

goods - including champagne and foie gras - all

from a local artisan. It’s a thoughtful gesture

restocked daily.

that combines a sense of occasion with a

While some are contemplating how they give

connection to the locale – and perhaps one of

guests a memorable in-room F&B experience,

the reasons the property remains the jewel in

the mini-bar is still a conundrum that operators

operator Artfarm’s crown.

could do well to rethink. “I’ve worked with

SIPPING

Both Estelle Manor (bottom) and Desa Potato Head (top) have invested in bespoke designs and carefully curated offerings that reflect the property’s identity

at The Madison Hotel in 1963, but it wasn’t

“There’s a real danger of being bland, non-distinct and forgettable. Where some provide services, the best operators create experiences.”

until the 1970s that they gained popularity –

DANIEL BAERNREUTHER, ESTELLE MANOR

hotels for nearly 20 years and it’s rare for the mini-bar to be a priority,” says Anna Sebastian, founder of her eponymous consulting agency. “It’s often the first and last F&B touchpoint of a stay, so it should be given more consideration.” The story of how the mini-bar came into existence begins in Germany, when Siegas produced a small refrigerator for a Washington DC hotelier. The appliance was installed in suites

Ultimately, this comes down to differentiation. In Bali, Desa Potato Head is operating what it dubs the ‘maxi-bar’. The concept began in 2017 at Oma House, the first property from Indonesian hotelier Ronald Akili who, according to Hotel Manager Nitesh Matlani, “set out to fix everything that bothered him about travelling”. Describing conventional mini-bar offerings as “depressing”, Akili took a different approach, introducing local spirits and mix-it-yourself cocktails in a cabinet made by local artisans.

thanks to a bright idea from Robert Arnold,

The maxi-bar proved so successful that he went

F&B Manager at Hong Kong Hilton. By stocking

on to introduce it across the business. “Every room at Desa has a full in-room bar

in-room fridges with alcohol, he reportedly

with three house-infused spirits made on-

increased sales by 500%. For several decades, the mini-bar remained in

site with local herbs and spices: Rosella Gin,

its simplest form: generic drinks and snacks sold

Citrus Husk Vodka and Island Spiced Rum,”

at mark-ups of 300–400% above retail price.

explains Matlani. These are presented alongside

But as consumers grew weary of the inflated

a ready-made Indo Negroni and mixers from Indonesian producers, as well as a full set of bar

cost, popularity waned, leaving operators grappling with the expense of maintaining a

When Estelle Manor reopened in 2023, there

tools and glassware made from recycled bottles.

service that offered diminishing returns.

was a conscious decision for it to be a feature,

The finishing touch is a booklet by mixologist

In 2004, Marriott Marquis in New York

rather than an afterthought. “We custom-built

Dre Masso, which guides guests through three

removed nearly all its mini-bars from its near

furniture in a way that allowed us to display

perfect serves – the Desa Mule, Island Highball

2,000 rooms because it reportedly took eight

our highly curated selection,” explains General

and Bali G&T.

full-time staff members to maintain 150 units

Manager Daniel Baernreuther. “There are

While most hotels still focus on food and

per day. By 2012, PKF Hospitality Research had

wine drawers, fridges, display shelves and an

drink as the main mini-bar offering, the biggest

found that mini-bar sales had dropped by 28%

integrated coffee station.”

change, thinks Baernreuther, is the addition of

across the five years prior. At the same time,

Baernreuther believes that a standout

other product types. It’s something his team

major hotel chains recognised the benefits of

mini-bar is a crucial amenity, particularly in

at Estelle Manor have increased to include the

working with the likes of DoorDash, Uber and

the luxury sector. “There’s a real danger of

likes of skincare, eye masks, phone chargers

Grubhub to deliver food to their guests.

being bland, non-distinct and forgettable,” he

and earphones - all readily available rather than

warns. “Where some provide services, the best

having to wait for room service.

As some hotels looked to external providers, others began rethinking the mini-bar itself.

operators create experiences.”

Sebastian is a fan of this more holistic

115

SIPPING

“When you add value, you create loyalty, and guests are willing to pay that little bit more for the experience. It’s the small things that make a difference to a hotel’s success.” ANNA SEBASTIAN

Desa Potato Head’s ‘maxi-bar’ champions Indonesian producers and house-made spirits, encouraging further exploration of the hotel’s wider F&B offering

116

approach: “It’s about what can help enhance

too, as more people lead health-conscious

my sleep, my stay, my gym workout or my

lives, which is why our mixers, cold brew and

hangover,” she reveals. “I look for sleep aids,

kombucha work well.”

electrolytes, supplements and face masks little extras that go beyond the hotel stay.”

There’s also an opportunity for operators to use mini-bars as a testing ground for emerging

A recent study by Dometic offers further

products, with start-ups such as Extra making

insight into guest expectations of the mini-

it easier and more cost-effective for hotels

bar. Beyond contents and clear pricing, noise is

to offer complimentary food and drink while

a key consideration, with 53% of US travellers

gathering valuable feedback.

and 70% of German travellers saying silent

Running an extensive, carefully considered

operation is a must – suggesting that a good

mini-bar also brings challenges. At Desa Potato

night’s sleep is equally as important as the

Head, Matlani identifies freshness and waste as

contents inside. Size also matters, with nearly

two key considerations. “House infusions and

half of each demographic citing the ability to

fresh garnishes need daily care, and the ice has

store bottles upright as a desirable attribute.

to be replenished, so the maxi-bar asks a lot

Quality and taste are priorities for Desa Potato

more of our team than a sealed fridge would.”

Head, with the resort’s zero-waste fermented

Supply, he admits, is another barrier, since

drinks, including speciality kombuchas and

working with small local producers means

custom ferments crafted by its in-house R&D

quantities and availability can shift.

beverage team. “Guests care much more

Pricing versus quality is another challenge.

about quality and they want natural, local and

“Ironically, in a hotel, a creative always has to

sustainable ingredients,” says Matlani. “The

ask permission from the finance team, whereas

low- and no-alcohol movement has grown

the finance team never has to sense-check

SIPPING

against a creative,” muses Sebastian. “I think

they’re getting more, without noticing the

that’s where important details can sometimes

difference in price.”

get overlooked.”

At Estelle Manor, the mini-bar extends beyond food and drink to include luxurious everyday essentials

118

And what about honesty bars, where guests

The generous maxi-bar approach, therefore,

can chalk up their own food and drink as

offers value but perhaps does not help the

they go? Stockholm’s Ett Hem and Cornwall’s

bottom line. “How profitable your programme

Coomeshead Farm are among those embracing

is depends on your ambition for the mini-bar,

this small but growing niche, where offerings

your hotel layout, labour setup and pricing

feel generous yet still generate income. “We like

strategy,” says Baernreuther. But where profits

the trust behind them, and our ‘first-round-

might not sing, guest experience does: “When

on-us’ approach comes from a similar place,”

we could not have mini-bars after Covid due

says Matlani. “Honesty boxes can fall down

to health and safety concerns, something was

when they leave the guest to do the accounting.

missing. A well-curated offering adds to how

We prefer to give generously up front and let

intentional a hotel room feels.”

guests ask for more when they want it.”

For Sebastian, costing in the mini-bar to the

More often, he says, the best mini-bar

booking price is the way to go. “When you add

experiences lead to sales elsewhere on the

value, you create loyalty and guests are willing

property. “It introduces our house infusions and

to pay that little bit more for the experience. I

to Indonesian producers, and often sends guests

think it’s the small things that make a difference

to Desa’s bars, cocktail classes and tastings

to a hotel’s success,” she suggests. “Charging

afterwards. Refills bring in some revenue, but

separately for the mini-bar doesn’t necessarily

ultimately, we judge the maxi-bar on what it

feel generous, but increasing the room rate

adds to the overall stay and how it reflects who

by $50 and including it can make guests feel

we are.”

The partner that shares your table! www.eternum.com

COCKTAIL

Smooth Operator The Bloomsbury Club The Bloomsbury LONDON

The sultry tones of Sade have sparked some cocktail creativity at The Bloomsbury Club in London, where a new menu takes its cues from five defining musical eras. Pressed into a menu of 7-inch records, The Listeners Club invites guests to flick through the decades. Among the funk and R&Binspired serves is Sade’s Smooth Operator, a remix of the iconic French 75. “I love the elegance and simplicity of the classic recipe, but in developing a signature cocktail, I wanted to move away from champagne, as it is an ingredient we often see on drinks menus,” Bar Manager Antonio Papariello explains. Instead,

final

splash

Akashi-Tai

Junmai Ginjo Sparkling Sake provides a softer effervescence, accompanied by Surrey-made Silent Pool Gin and Beesou, a honey aperitif.

foam. “The blue air creates a striking visual

“I like the idea of using British ingredients

contrast while keeping the garnish extremely

with a strong sense of provenance, particularly

light, so the presentation complements the

Beesou, whose approach to sustainability plays

elegant nature of the cocktail,” the mixologist

an important part,” he adds.

explains of the creation.

To add an extra dimension to the drink, fresh

Papariello concludes: “What makes Smooth

white grapes are muddled with elderflower

Operator special is that every ingredient is there

liqueur and strained, joining Mancino Secco

for a reason, but no single element dominates.

vermouth, white balsamic vinegar and lemon

The three words we use to describe the cocktail

bitters for extra definition.

are floral, sparkling and crisp. That balance is

Served in a tall-stemmed flute, the cocktail’s

also what makes the name Smooth Operator

final touch is a concoction of blue curaçao,

work so well; there are several layers behind it,

water and soy lecithin, aerated into a delicate

but the experience for the guest is effortless.”

COCKTAIL

Golden Orchard Gŏng Bar Shangri-La The Shard LONDON

52 floors above London, Gŏng Bar at

Styling is an equally important part

Shangri-La The Shard is taking guests on

of the experience. The sip is served in

a journey across Asia, with a cocktail menu

a chilled coupe and poured tableside

inspired by the continent’s defining pop-

from a bespoke decanter inspired by

culture movements.

Singapore’s iconic Merlion, a mythical Golden

creature with the head of a lion and

Orchard, a twist on the classic fruit

the body of a fish. “The custom-made

martini. A slew of far-reaching Asian

decanter brings a sense of theatre while

elements are showcased in the pour,

creating a connection to Singapore and

including Haku Vodka and Fenjiu Silk

the menu’s wider Asian inspiration,”

Road

wakame

concludes Ghiozzi. “It transforms the final

seaweed and juicy peaches from Japan’s

pour into a memorable ritual, making the

Yamanashi Prefecture - known locally as

presentation as considered and distinctive

Fruit Kingdom for its optimal growing

as the drink itself.”

Representing

Rose

conditions.

Singapore

Baijiu,

alongside

“Together,

the

ingredients

create a cocktail that is beautifully layered, moving between floral, savoury and saline notes,” says Bar Manager Simone Ghiozzi. The mixture is stirred rather than shaken, a move that delicately preserves its silky texture and clarity while gently integrating each component. “What is particularly distinctive is the contrast between the intense natural sweetness of peach and the savoury umami character of wakame,” Ghiozzi continues. “The peach provides brightness, fragrance and a luscious fruitiness, while the seaweed introduces depth and gives the cocktail a

intriguing,

grown-up

finish.

Combined with the floral complexity of the baijiu, the result is a drink that evolves on the palate rather than delivering one dominant flavour.”

10-12 May 2027 Le Meridien Split, Croatia

Join us for TO THE TABLE Europe 2027 taking place at the Le Meridien Split on the spectacular Croatian coast, where senior decision makers from major European hotel groups, cruise lines and restaurant groups will come together to discuss their latest projects and requirements with the most innovative and capable suppliers. TO THE TABLE Europe 2027 will keep you connected in this dynamic industry and forging relationships at the highest level.

For details on all TO THE TABLE events, please see:

www.tothetableforums.com Or contact Justin Wall: justin@tothetableforums.com

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TIME TO BOND . Drink Responsibly. TM

DRINKS

Heaven Hill Distillery Elijah Craig Bourbon Elijah Craig Bourbon bears the name of Reverend Elijah Craig, also known as The Father of Bourbon, who established his distillery in 1789 on the banks of Elkhorn Creek in modern day Georgetown, Kentucky. He is credited with being the first to age his wares in charred oak barrels. Produced by Heaven Hill Distillery, the family of whiskeys includes Elijah Craig Small Batch, Elijah Craig Straight Rye Whiskey, Elijah Craig Toasted Barrel Bourbon and Rye, Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, and Elijah Craig Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey. First brought to market in 1986, Heaven Hill Distillery’s Master Distillers were selecting a small number of barrels of the finest Bourbon to make Elijah Craig Small Batch long before the term ‘small batch’ even existed. It is this attention to detail and craftsmanship that give the liquid its balance of age, robust body and rich flavour. www.elijahcraig.com

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Familia Mesa Tequila Blanco / Reposado

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Familia Mesa Tequila is produced at a 38-yearold family distillery in Arandas, Los Altos de Jalisco – Mexico’s highland region at 2,000m above sea level. Here, a combination of red volcanic soil and cool mountain air produce a Blue Weber agave with exceptional concentration and flavour complexity. The collection comprises two expressions, both made from 100% Blue Weber agave, handharvested at peak maturity and slow-roasted for 24 hours in brick masonry ovens. The agave is then wild-yeast fermented in open tanks, using yeast carried naturally by bees from an adjacent lemon orchard, resulting in a distinctive floralcitrus character. The Blanco is bottled immediately after double distillation, capturing a pure expression of the terroir, with fresh agave, citrus zest, light florals and subtle mineral notes on the nose. The palate delivers clean agave, green apple and a creamy texture, followed by a long, clean finish without heat.

The Reposado Joven uses the same liquid, rested in American oak barrels. Each barrel is assessed individually, with batches aged for between two and six months depending on the spirit’s readiness. The process adds soft vanilla warmth, toasted oak and a silky finish while preserving the agave character at its core. Neither expression contains additives, with no glycerin, sugar syrup, caramel colouring or oak extract introduced at any stage. The bottles are crafted from individually blown glass, heavier than the category standard, with embossed measurement markings integrated directly into the glass. The result is a premium tequila bottle designed with the bar professional in mind from the outset. In 2026, Familia Mesa Tequila’s collection was recognised at the Bartender Spirits Awards, with the Blanco receiving a Silver Medal and the Reposado Joven a Bronze Medal in the brand’s first year of entry. www.mesatequila.com

DRINKS

Havana Club Icónica Unión Icónica Unión is the ultimate expression of the Havana Club Icónica Collection. Crafted with the brand’s signature ageing process, it is an extra aged rum that embodies the dedication of the Maestros del Ron Cubano, whose mastery has shaped generations of rum making. Well suited to luxury hospitality environments, Icónica Unión lends itself to a variety of tasting occasions, from refined sipping to curated gastronomic experiences, showcasing the richness, elegance and complexity of extraaged Cuban rum. Presented in the Icónica range’s signature decanter, the design of the bottle represents an hourglass – a symbol of the patience and passing of time required to age rum to perfection. “Iconica Unión embodies the highest expression of Havana Club’s philosophy of continuous ageing. It is a rum that honours our traditions while offering a more refined expression for today’s collectors and connoisseurs” comments Asbel Morales, Maestro del Ron Cubano and the visionary behind the collection. www.havana-club.com

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SPOTLIGHT

Every Cup Counts Long at the fore of coffee innovation, Nespresso’s new machine upgrades are designed to guarantee quality and consistency across all F&B venues. Words: Abby Lowe • Photography: © Henrike Stahl

or many hotel guests, the day doesn’t

upgraded releases, it’s simpler than ever to

a compact, intuitive and stylish machine, it

begin until they have sipped a steaming

deliver excellence without exception.

allows hotels to offer the same capsule system

cup of hot coffee. It’s a small ritual in the

“Hotels need to deliver great coffee across

across venues, helping to simplify operations.

grand scheme of things, but today, it carries

venues with different guest expectations and

“It’s good for both operators and guests,” Leite

real weight: a recent US hospitality study found

operational realities,” explains Thamiris Leite,

says. “The small water tanks means guests can

that nearly half of guests have left a hotel to

Global Senior Commercial Manager Horeca at

easily fill it in the in-room sink, and the hot

find better coffee. That means the ubiquitous

Nespresso. “That’s why it became our mission

water function means hotels can finally get

drink is no longer just a convenience. Instead,

to strengthen our proposition as a full-venue

rid of kettles, creating a beautiful hot beverage

it has become a pivotal moment on the guest

coffee partner.”

corner instead.”

journey that shapes how stays are remembered

Leading the change is the sleek Momento

Added bonuses include the freshly roasted

and reviewed, and vitally, plays a key role in

Black Series, the brand’s latest innovation that’s

taste that’s locked in by capsules until the

driving repeat visits.

been designed for demanding environments.

moment it is extracted, and a differentiated

“Coffee is undoubtedly one of the most

Featuring four programmed sizes - Ristretto,

setup to Nespresso’s at-home machines,

powerful and enduring signs of excellence in

Espresso, Lungo and Americano, hot water

ensuring guests can indulge in a new and

a hotel,” says Simon Lavanchy, Global Senior

function, and a direct water connection, the

memorable coffee experience. Naturally, the

Brand Manager Horeca at Nespresso. “For

machine enables hotels to deliver first-rate and

promise of the brand’s sustainably sourced The

guests, it contributes to a positive and consistent

consistent coffee fast, with just a simple touch

AAA Program coffee, developed in partnership

experience. For hotels, it is a visible expression

of a button.

with the Rainforest Alliance, is also vital for

of quality and care that can strengthen how a

“The Momento Black Series has been tailored

guest satisfaction.

specifically for fast-paced F&B venues, with

“Our new innovations open up a world of

That means it’s more important than ever

significantly improved speed specifically to

coffee exploration that speedily responds to

to collaborate with a coffee partner who

respond to the needs of horeca environments,”

different guest tastes and preferences across

understands the power of getting every cup of

Leite continues. “So, it delivers consistently and

all F&B venues,” Leite says. “Coffee is now

coffee as close to perfection as possible – not

quickly – at 120 Espressos and 60 Lungos per

a defining touchpoint of hotel experiences,

a simple task when faced with challenges such

hour – even during peak service.”

with the power to either drive business or

property is critiqued.”

as staff shortages and high turnover rate that

Meanwhile, Giorno Mini has been streamlined

cost business. Our machines guarantee that

can result in inconsistent quality. Fortunately,

to upgrade Nespresso’s already esteemed in-

properties and operators are well-placed to both

Nespresso has long been at the fore of industry

room service. Offering four coffee sizes and

respond to and exceed that challenge.”

innovation, and with the brand’s latest

a separate hot water function for tea, all in

www.nespresso.com/pro

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PERFECT SERVICE, RIGHT AT YOUR TABLE. Discover our glass chillers. 100% Made in Italy. thrillinternational.com

EVENTS

Ambiente

29 January-02 February 2027 FRANKFURT

With an expanded HoReCa offering and a redesigned layout, Ambiente is strengthening its appeal to hospitality professionals. Thomas Kastl, Director of Ambiente Dining, outlines what’s in store.

Frankfurt will once again bring together the

Where can chefs and restaurateurs find the

worlds of hospitality and design when Ambiente

most relevent suppliers?

returns to Messe Frankfurt in January.

Hall 12.1 is a key destination for hospitality

Combining product discovery with industry

professionals. Here, equipment and premium

insight, the trade fair connects hospitality

tableware come together in one place, with

professionals with the latest innovations and

brands such as Rosenthal, Villeroy & Boch and

solutions for their projects. Thomas Kastl,

Vista Alegre. Relevant suppliers can also be

Director of Ambiente Dining, outlines what to

found in Halls 8, 9 and 12.0 through our HoReCa

expect from the next edition.

Special Interest category. Visitors can search for exhibitors and products on the Ambiente

Why visit Ambiente?

Navigator app, and we’re also planning guided

Ambiente is the leading international trade fair

tours specifically for hospitality professionals.

for consumer goods, and its Dining sector is a key destination for hospitality professionals,

Which F&B trends will be showcased this year?

where everything from premium tableware and

Today, guests expect more than great food –

professional kitchen equipment to complete

they want a memorable experience; that’s one

interior solutions finds a home. In 2026, the

of the key topics we’re exploring at the HoReCa

event attracted 96,000 trade visitors - we work

Academy. Elsewhere, Future of Hospitality

on a truly unrivalled international scale.

considers international developments and the evolving guest experience; Experience

Why hold the fair early in the year?

Dining & Multisensory Hospitality explores

The early date is a major advantage for buyers.

how dining engages all the senses; and Future

It gives them a head start on discovering

Materials & Conscious Hospitality focuses on

innovations, comparing products and suppliers,

innovative, durable materials, circular design

finding new sourcing partners and planning

and responsible luxury.

purchasing decisions for the year ahead. What can hospitality professionals expect to What does Ambiente offer beyond tableware?

take away from Ambiente 2027?

The HoReCa Academy provides additional

Above all, fresh ideas, new perspectives and

inspiration through current industry topics and

the enthusiasm to make progress in their own

guided tours. Visitors can explore new design

businesses. My advice: come to Ambiente with a

ideas and connect directly with products and

clear agenda but leave time for the unexpected.

suppliers. For fresh perspectives on design,

Sometimes it’s that chance discovery that makes

there’s the Interior Design & Architecture Hub

all the difference. I look forward to welcoming

created by our Ambiente Designer for 2027 –

everyone to Frankfurt!

Dutch design studio Raw Color.

ambiente.messefrankfurt.com

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PETITS FOURS

Pordamsa Botanique Pordamsa brings its Botanique collection into full bloom with the introduction of new flat plates, bowls and podiums. Inspired by the silhouette of a flower, the pieces extend Botanique’s distinctive language through organic, sinuous curves that capture light and bring movement to the table. Each form preserves a clean central space, offering chefs a pure canvas for composition while creating a sculptural frame around every dish. Available in glossy and silky matte finishes, the expanded range opens up new possibilities for plating, presentation and service. www.pordamsa.com

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1. Julius Meinl Premium Tea Solutions

2. Garnier Thiebaut Holiday Kitchen Towel Gift Set

3. Bonna Nicole

4. Fiorenzato Adapt

Since 1862, Julius Meinl has been dedicated to providing everything needed to create memorable tea moments, from refreshing classic tastes to unique new blends. Now, the brand introduces ceremonial-grade Matcha and gently roasted Hojicha to its tea portfolio, both delivering premium quality, authentic flavour and effortless preparation. Certified organic and made from 100% pure green tea, Matcha and Hojicha come in convenient, reclosable and recyclable tins with a measuring spoon. Combined with the Julius Meinl Matcha Shaker, they ensure seamless, consistent preparation – supporting modern tea rituals with the trusted quality of Julius Meinl. www.juliusmeinl.com

Garnier Thiebaut created the Holiday 2026 Kitchen Towel Gift Box to make the most of its seasonal offerings across hospitality and retail, bringing together three holiday designs: Calendrier 2027 Celebration, Les Cadeaux De Noel Houx and Bonhommes De Neige Vintage. Woven in France, each 100% cotton towel pairs the character of jacquard with printed linen. Every set arrives pre-wrapped in a commemorative gift box, making it a distinctive choice for corporate gifts, staff recognition, guest gifting and hotel or restaurant boutique placement – a considered way to approach seasonal gifting and share a tangible reminder of a property. gtlinenshospitality.com

A canvas for elevated culinary presentations, Nicole is designed to express refined elegance on the table. With versatile forms, minimalist relief details and a collection-specific coffee series, it delivers a cohesive and sophisticated dining experience. Turkish porcelain manufacturer Bonna entered the gastronomy sector as the new-generation representative of Kar Porcelain. Passionately dedicated to enhancing the culinary experience, Bonna focuses on premium product performance, unique design and sustainable practices while offering a wide range of porcelain, vitrified stoneware and other tabletop categories. www.bonna.com.tr

In hospitality, consistency has to survive busy service, shift changes and different levels of staff experience. Fiorenzato Adapt Technology connects the grinder to the espresso machine, using extraction data from its flow meters to keep the recipe on track. After a guided self-learning phase, Adapt monitors performance: when three consecutive extractions fall outside the target, the display suggests how to adjust the grind. The barista stays in control, while the self-learning system turns data into clear guidance. For hotels, restaurants and multi-site operations, Adapt brings a simpler, more connected workflow and a cup guests can count on. www.fiorenzato.com

PETITS FOURS

Modbar Marketing & Communication Specialist Camilla Cesana and Product Design & Innovation Manager Stefano Della Pietra discuss how design, modular equipment and evolving service models are reshaping the role of coffee within hotel F&B. How is the role of coffee changing within hospitality spaces? CC: Coffee is becoming less of a standalone service and more integrated into the wider hospitality experience. It is no longer defined only by the moment in which it is served, but by the holistic role it can play within a space: as part of a ritual, a social moment or a way of welcoming guests. This is particularly visible in hotels and restaurants, where coffee is increasingly moving beyond the traditional breakfast room or dedicated coffee-bar setting. How is that shift materialising in practice? SDP: Coffee equipment is no longer relegated to hidden areas, but becomes part of the architecture and design of the space around it. This places greater importance on how the equipment relates to its surroundings. A minimal aesthetic can integrate naturally into different environments, complementing the space without disrupting its visual harmony. At the same time, when the barista works without a visual barrier, the equipment becomes part of what the guest experiences. The focus moves from the machine itself to the craft taking place around it, bringing the gestures and skill of preparation to the centre. What role does modular coffee equipment play? CC: Hospitality spaces are rarely static. Their needs can change throughout the day, as well as over time, and the equipment within them needs to respond to that same sense of movement. Modularity allows coffee equipment to be approached less as a fixed system and more as a set of possibilities. Different functions can be considered independently and brought together according to the needs of a hospitality space and its workflow. Can other beverages be incorporated? CC: Equipment needs to accommodate different functions and beverage experiences within the same area, without fragmenting the way the space is experienced. The question then becomes

how this wider offering can be integrated into a bar station. In much the same way as coffee equipment becomes part of the counter, different beverage functions can be integrated into the same environment, rather than creating separate stations for each category. This allows equipment to support a more layered and personalised experience, where coffee, tea and cocktails coexist and contribute to the character of the concept. What is unique about the way Modbar approaches design? SDP: Modbar combines the performance standards of a La Marzocco machine with an aesthetic that keeps the counter clean and allows the craft of coffee preparation to take centre stage. A significant part of the engineering work has focused on maintaining thermal stability, despite the brewing group being separated from the boiler and positioned beneath the counter. This allows the technology to move out of sight without compromising the performance required for professional service. The result is a clean, linear counter that reduces the physical and visual barriers between barista and guest, allowing the preparation to become part of the experience. Where do you see the greatest opportunities for coffee in the future? CC: The biggest opportunity for hoteliers is to stop thinking about coffee as a category and start thinking about it as part of the wider hospitality experience. Coffee can move beyond dedicated spaces and into a broader range of contexts – restaurants, cultural spaces, retail, listening rooms and hybrid venues – contributing not only to the offer, but also to the atmosphere, rhythm and identity of a place. As hospitality becomes more fluid, coffee can take on different roles throughout the day: a morning ritual, a moment of connection, a pause, or the final gesture after dinner. The opportunity lies in creating spaces that can sustain these different moments naturally, with technology supporting the experience without defining it. www.modbar.com

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1. Thrill International Thrill Rock

2. Porland Taya

3. Costa Verde Terra Black Edition

4. Rewthink Bespoke Products

Designed and manufactured in Italy, Thrill Rock from Thrill International brings a new dimension to beverage service by transforming glass chilling into an interactive ritual. Compact, mobile and fully autonomous, Thrill Rock is an all-inone professional glass chiller designed to move beyond the bar counter and become part of service itself. Using liquid CO₂, it chills and sanitises glasses in just a few seconds, helping reduce bacteria and unwanted odours while preparing the glass for the drink that follows. Brought directly to the table, it allows guests to take part in the moment, chilling their own glass and watching the distinctive CO₂ effect unfold before them. www.thrillinternational.com

Inspired by Hittite mythology and the elemental forces of nature, the Taya collection by Porland combines ancient symbols with organic textures. Taya reinterprets heritage through a refined and contemporary design language. The collection creates a distinctive backdrop for modern culinary presentations, adding depth and character without overshadowing the chef’s creations. Its versatile aesthetic is designed to complement a variety of hospitality concepts, from contemporary restaurants to sophisticated hotel dining rooms. Blending cultural heritage with modern elegance, Taya tells a new story at the table. www.porland.com

Inspired by clay in its most elemental form, Terra Black Edition by Costa Verde explores the beauty of imperfection through a deeply earthy aesthetic. In its most intense expression, Terra is crafted from black clay, bringing together Pere Gifre’s artistic vision with Costa Verde’s sense of craftsmanship. The combination of glazed surfaces and biscuit-finish areas creates a subtle dialogue in textures: from rough to satin and deep matte to delicate sheen. The collection of porcelain for the world of luxury hospitality and fine dining includes plates, bowls, podiums and a creamer, offering chefs a distinctive visual language designed to complement and enhance culinary creations. pro.costa-verde.com

Bespoke food and drink trolleys by Rewthink are engineered to deliver seamless service, with removable trays, folding servers and integrated storage. Lightweight, compact frames, accessible from both sides, allow for effortless movement between tables, making the trolleys suitable for carving meat tableside or serving aperitifs and desserts. Each piece is made-toorder at Rewthink’s Kent workshop and crafted from a choice of materials including American walnut, Italian marble, Cumbrian stone, stainless steel and solid brass. For operators seeking a distinctive identity, trolleys can be customised with different finishes, branding and logos. www.rewthink.co.uk

PETITS FOURS

1. ID Fine Pique

2. Pioli Lena

3. Frilich Carafine

4. Steelite International Distinction & Performance

Pique by ID Fine is defined by a delicately detailed rim that adds depth and visual interest, while leaving the centre of the plate as a canvas for culinary expression. The result is distinctive enough to enrich a table setting, yet restrained enough to let each dish take centre stage. Designed with hospitality in mind, Pique lends itself to considered presentations in hotel restaurants, fine-dining venues and other premium F&B environments. Reflecting ID Fine’s Define Dining philosophy, the collection places the chef’s creativity at the heart of every presentation, bringing together thoughtful design, versatility and an appreciation for the details that distinguish exceptional hospitality. www.idfine.com.tr

Named after the Latin root lenis, which is associated with cleanliness, lightness and brightness, the Lena collection from Pioli embodies a calm, minimalist aesthetic with a matte surface and natural relief lines. Designed with the demands of professional hospitality in mind, its carefully engineered forms offer enhanced resistance to edge chipping, helping each piece maintain its shape and integrity through long-term use. The collection adapts to a variety of dining concepts, from contemporary restaurants to refined hotel F&B settings, and provides a clean visual language that allows a chef’s composition to become the star of the show. www.pioli.co

Meet the new Carafine Triplett and Carafine Quintett by Frilich, where functionality meets clever design. Dressed in matte black or gold, the double-wall insulated carafe stands feature a square-hammered PVD-coated finish. Designed to work seamlessly with Frilich’s adjustable 1.2 litre carafes in glass, Tritan or white porcelain, a clever central crushed-ice tube keeps carafes and bottles dry on the outside, meaning no dripping, no slipping and no messy buffet spaces. Colour-coordinated, hygienic lids complete the look and can even be individually labelled on request. Because for Frilich, great presentation is all about the finer details. www.frilich.de

Steelite International, a pioneering company in the world of tabletop, buffet and lighting solutions since 1982, remains synonymous with excellence in design and innovation. Dedicated to pushing the boundaries of technology while prioritising sustainability, Steelite caters to hospitality professionals in over 140 countries, maintaining a commitment to delivering industry-leading quality and serviceability in the face of evolving customer tastes. Proudly crafted in England and backed by a lifetime edgechip warranty, Steelite’s philosophy of creating products that are made for life is woven into every piece in its Performance and Distinction collections. www.steelite.com

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Franke Coffee Systems New A Line

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In modern hospitality, design is about more than just aesthetics. Every element contributes to the character of a space, from furniture and lighting to the equipment behind the counter. And as coffee machines increasingly occupy visible positions in hotels, restaurants and bars, their appearance is becoming a growing part of the guest experience. For its New A Line, Franke Coffee Systems kept this in mind, working with Swiss industrial designer Michael Thurnherr of 2nd West to create a product with a distinctive visual identity that matches the practical demands of professional coffee preparation. The machines are defined by clean architectural lines and refined proportions. Matte surfaces, sleek metal and three distinctive finishes – onyx, granite and mahogany – give them a premium appearance that complements a range of interior concepts. A key consideration is the modularity of the

coffee station itself. Consequently, machines and add-on units share a cohesive style, allowing operators to configure their coffee solution to suit individual requirements while maintaining a harmonious overall appearance. The same attention to detail extends to the user experience. A 10.4-inch touchscreen supports intuitive interaction, while the Dynamic Spout Light communicates machine status through clear visual signals. These elements demonstrate how thoughtful design can unite aesthetics and functionality, supporting smooth workflows without compromising the character of a space. Recognised with the iF Design Award 2026 and Red Dot Award: Product Design 2026, the New A Line reflects Franke Coffee Systems’ belief that exceptional design should not only look appealing but also make a meaningful difference in everyday hospitality operations. aline.franke.coffee

PETITS FOURS

1. Kutahya Porselen Figaro

2. Rona Solar

3. John Jenkins Atlantic Deep Spiral

4. Fine Dining & Living Filora by Chic

Inspired by the rhythm and harmony of classical compositions, Figaro by Kutahya Porselen brings the power of musical art to the table. The harmony created by the interplay of different notes is transformed into a refined visual composition in each plate design. Fine lines radiating elegantly from the centre create a sense of movement and depth as they interact with light, while recurring details lend the design a strong sense of unity. Reinterpreting the elegance of classical music through the simplicity of contemporary design, the collection masterfully balances simplicity and grandeur with the aim to lend tables a distinctive and timeless character. kurumsal.kutahyaporselen.com

Created with the hospitality industry in mind, Solar stands out with its robust construction and comfortable weight. Each glass feels reassuringly solid in the hand, giving it a distinctive character while remaining practical for everyday service. Whether used for a classic whisky, a carefully prepared cocktail, or a simple drink served over ice, the collection offers versatility. Its understated appearance makes it equally suited to a sophisticated hotel bar, a busy restaurant, or a more relaxed drinking environment. With Solar, Rona focuses on the details that matter in professional glassware: durability, balance and the pleasure of holding a well-made glass. rona.glass

Atlantic Deep Spiral is a handcrafted barware collection named for its distinct spiral motif. The range includes a water glass, martini glass, highball, cocktail coupe, mixing glass, bellini glass and tasting flute. John Jenkins is renowned for its range of handmade and machinemade glassware that runs the gamut from wine and cocktail glasses to classic tumblers, all of which are available for immediate delivery. John Jenkins also has an in-house design department that can create bespoke pieces and exclusive patterns. Each piece benefits from the latest advancements in glass-making technology employed to enhance clarity, durability and scratch resistance. www.johnjenkins.co.uk

Made from innovative SiloxiHT porcelain, Filora by Chic is thinner, lighter and stronger than traditional porcelain. The collection has a clean white finish and a refined silhouette which is complemented by a subtle radial texture that adds detail without distracting from the chef’s creation. It comprises four pieces: three flat plates in different sizes and a deep plate, providing options for serving everything from starters and light dishes to main courses. Designed for professional hospitality, Filora is a versatile addition to any table, combining durability and practicality with a simple, contemporary design and giving chefs a versatile canvas for their dishes. www.finediningandliving.eu

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ORGANIC MODERNITY

BILBAO www.cookplay.eu

PETITS FOURS

1. Costa Nova Vasco

2. RAK Porcelain Trends

3. Schönwald Kumo

Vasco steak knives are bold and distinctive without ever compromising on functionality. Each features a serrated blade designed for smooth meat cutting, while striking handles add visual interest. Comprising four designs, three with a textured, hammered-like pattern, Vasco is a strong addition to Costa Nova’s hospitality assortment. The collection pairs well with a range of tableware styles, from casual dining to more refined restaurant concepts. Whether used alongside a grilled steak or as part of a more elaborate multi-course experience, Vasco knives lend the table a bold aesthetic that complements the overall culinary presentation. www.costanovaprofessional.com

Designed for the way chefs plate today, Trends brings a modern architectural perspective to classic banquetware. An expansive rim creates space for ingredients to extend beyond the traditional well, inviting chefs to explore unexpected presentations, while the interplay of depth and surface allows every element of the dish to become part of an intentional visual experience. Behind its contemporary aesthetic is the functionality required for modern hospitality, creating a collection that is as purposeful as it is visually striking. With Trends, classic banquet silhouettes are transformed into something fresh, expressive and distinctly modern. www.rakporcelain.com

Winner of the German Design Award 2027 in Excellent Product Design, Tabletop, Kumo is Schönwald’s chefs’ collection for ambitious fine dining. With a name meaning cloud in Japanese, designer Claudia Schoemig developed the first sketches for Kumo by experimenting with the traditional slip-casting process in her studio. Soft, outer curves meet classic round shapes, while sandblasted matte areas set off the glazed finish on selected plates. Crafted in natural white noble china, Kumo combines a delicate profile with the durability professional kitchens demand. Its clear design language moves easily between classic, linen-dressed tables and minimalist settings. www.bhs-tabletop.com

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sirhafood.com sirha-lyon.com

21 - 25 JANUARY2027 EUREXPO LYON, FRANCE

THE WORLD’S LEADING EVENT FOR FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY

Sirha Lyon brings together everyone driving the restaurant, foodservice, hotel and hospitality industries forward: decision-makers, chefs, brands and buyers. In 2027, Sirha Lyon enters a new era, reinventing itself for the first time and expanding its offering to new market segments, with three high-potential sectors: Hospitality Factory, Pizza and Beverages. This evolution reflects the changing industry landscape and opens up new business opportunities. Five days to find inspiration, exchange ideas, drive growth and, above all, stay ahead of everything shaping the future of Foodservice. BOOK YOUR STAND SARAH.LEBRETON@GL-EVENTS.COM GET YOUR VISITOR PASS SCAN THE QR CODE Trade professionals only.

PETITS FOURS

1. Corby Hall Vibe Forged Flatware

2. William Edwards Chesterfield

3. Sonja Quandt Exquisite Bar Accessories

4. Vista Alegre Écume - Chefs’ Collection

A family-owned business based in Randolph, New Jersey, Corby Hall has supplied the international hospitality industry with high quality flatware, holloware and bright white porcelain dinnerware for 50 years. With designs ranging from traditional to contemporary, at competitive price points, Corby Hall has the ability to supply F&B outlets associated with a full-service operation. A global distribution network coupled with production facilities in Europe and Asia allows for seamless service for opening orders and resupply. Its latest innovations include Vibe Forged Flatware in a brushed matte finish and 18/10 premium stainless steel construction. www.corbyhall.com

The William Edwards Chesterfield collection takes its cues from the tailored precision of classic 18th-century British furniture and upholstery. The structure of traditional quilted detailing, together with the craftsmanship associated with the designs, inspired Chesterfield’s distinctive embossed pattern. Reimagined in fine bone china, these heritage influences have been given a contemporary expression. A coordinated collection of plates, bowls and beverageware creates a consistent presentation across formal banquets and private dining, while complementary teapots, cups, creamers and sugar bowls bring cohesion to afternoon tea service. www.williamedwards.co.uk

Sonja Quandt’s silver pieces are handmade in Germany by skilled silversmiths. Each piece is carefully crafted from sterling silver and selected premium materials. Designed to elevate bar service, the collection is particularly well suited to luxury hospitality environments, including finedining restaurants, boutique hotels and exclusive event settings. In addition to the collection, Sonja Quandt offers bespoke solutions for hospitality partners. Products can be custom-made from the ground up or adapted to specific requirements, including personalised engravings, branding elements, individual dimensions and exclusive designs. www.sonja-quandt.com

As part of its Chefs’ Collection project, Vista Alegre Hotelware has collaborated with French chef Vincent Farges to create the Écume plate. Inspired by a memory of the sea from Farges’ time in Portugal, Écume draws on the power of nature and the unpredictability of the ocean. Its rim features an irregular contour and embossed biscuit finish that reproduces the undulation of the waves and texture of the foam, while the smooth, glazed surface contrasts with the sculpted surroundings, combining the strength of the elements with the delicacy of porcelain. This striking visual effect enhances presentation while allowing a restaurant’s identity to shine through. hotelware.vistaalegre.com

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Paris Expo Porte de Versailles

be-spirits.com

ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 51 Ambiente

147

Kutahya Porselen

055

Berry Bros & Rudd

106

La Marzocco Modbar

039

BHS

062

Mesa Tequila

109

016-017

Nespresso Bar

027

Brother's Bond

124

Nespresso Bed

101

Cookplay

140

Pioli

037

Corby Hall

002

Pordamsa

089

Costa Nova

012-013

Porland

Costa Verde

029

Rewthink

095

Cristel

102

RH Contract

077

Crystalex

132

Rona

117

Elijah Craig

120

Settings By Mona

047

Eternum

119

Sirha

142

Fine2Dine

023

Sonja Quandt

048

Fiorenzato

105

Steelite

148

Franke

024

Steelite

008-009

Frilich

075

Thrill International

130

Garnier Thiebaut

050

To The Table Asia

061

Giglio 1973

053

To The Table Europe

123

Goodfellows

069

Tognana

083

Bonna

018-019

Havana

006-007

Vinexposium

144

ID Fine

005

Vista Alegre

020

John Jenkins

111

Wedgwood

014-015

Julius Meinl

010-011

145

WASHING-UP

Beneath The Canopy

A treetop dining experience at JA Manafaru showcases the intricacies of 0km Maldivian cuisine.

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Trips to the Maldives are typically associated with

showcased alongside ingredients sourced from

gazing out towards the horizon to admire vistas

across the surrounding atoll.

of sea and sky, but Kuru, a new treetop dining

“Everything on the table comes from within

experience at JA Manafaru on the northernmost

one kilometre: reef fish, coconut, screwpine,

Haa Alifu Atoll, invites guests inland to consider

pandan, kopi leaf and fruit and vegetables from

their place among the boughs of an ancient

our own garden,” Moosa continues. “People

banyan tree.

sometimes hear 0km as a modern idea, but for

“Almost every great view in the Maldives

Maldivians it is a very old habit. For most of our

faces the water,” explains Executive Chef Moosa

history, there was simply no other way to cook.”

Nazeeh, who created the menu for the concept.

On a mission to introduce guests to the unique

“So, at Kuri, we turn into the island instead,

intricacies of his nation’s cuisine, including the

asking guests to sit inside the place they have

art of sharing, Moosa also aims to spotlight

travelled to rather than just look out from it.”

the dishes often overlooked by other resorts.

At an intimate table for two, guests are

“You can fly to the Maldives, eat beautifully

served a hyper-local, five-course tasting menu

every night and leave without tasting a single

designed to provide deep insight into Maldivian

Maldivian dish,” he says. “But for as long as I

food culture and heritage. The islands’ fishing

have been cooking, I have wanted the rest of the

traditions and domestic cooking techniques are

world to taste this food the way I know it.”

29. 1. – 2. 2. 2027 FRANKFURT / MAIN

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