In The Rhythm With two successful restaurants and two Michelin stars to his name, Rafael Cagali is enjoying a more considered approach to life, one that allows for both business and pleasure. Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Portrait Photography: © Food Story Media
I
f there’s a laid-back rhythm to be found
and sometime pot-washer in a brasserie close
in the intensity of high-end hospitality,
to his college in Fulham provided the lightbulb
Rafael Cagali has surely mastered it. The
moment that sparked his career change. “There
São Paulo native and chef-owner of the
was a moment where it clicked,” he recalls. “I
revered two-Michelin-starred Da Terra in
remember calling my mum and saying: ‘I’ve
London’s historic Town Hall Hotel has well
found what I want to do in life – I’m going to be
and truly stepped into his groove. Fresh from
a chef,’” he laughs. “She said: ‘Are you sure?!’”
participating in the 25th anniversary edition
The irony is that he comes from hospitality
of Northcote Obsession in Lancashire’s Ribble
stock. Growing up, his mother ran a ‘per-kilo’
Valley when we speak, he’s relaxed, convivial
lunch restaurant in São Paulo providing buffet-
and determined to enjoy this stage of his
style lunches to busy inner-city workers, and
career. “It was such an honour to be invited
his father owned a soft drinks business. But
for this special year,” he says of his second time
despite this early exposure to the workings of
participating in the landmark British culinary
the F&B industry, his parents refrained from
festival. “We decided to take it easy this time,
imposing their choices on him and he didn’t
to enjoy it; I just wanted to go there with the
once consider following in their footsteps.
team and have fun.”
“They treated it as a business, as a career, but
It wasn’t always this simple. Cagali’s path to
not as a passion,” he says. “I never thought that
success was slightly unconventional. Originally
this was something that was going to be part of
an economics undergraduate, he quit his
my life too.” His one regret, he says, is missing
university studies in São Paulo at the age of 21,
out on the opportunity to get more hands-on
with no plan other than to travel to London and
experience in his youth. “If I had known before,
learn English. A part-time job as a commis chef
especially when I was growing up, I could have