A Sense of Place From London to Sydney, the UK’s first female three-Michelin-starred chef Clare Smyth champions local ingredients and first-class producers, weaving a personal narrative through her critically acclaimed cuisine. Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Photography: Courtesy of Core and Oncore by Clare Smyth
C
hefs are often viewed as a tenacious
star status under the glare of what was, at times,
bunch, but becoming the first
an intense media spotlight. “The pressure came
woman in the UK to win three
for me early, when I was very young,” she recalls
Michelin stars surely takes a special
of that period. “That was the most pressure I felt.”
kind of resilience. Fortunately for
In 2017 Smyth opened her standalone venture,
Clare Smyth, professional grit has
Core, to instant critical acclaim, and by 2021 it had
always come naturally. “I love the pressure,” she
amassed three stars of its own. Such accolades have
explains genially from her Notting Hill restaurant
long been fundamental to her approach. “They’re
Core, with staff zooming around polishing
very important to me, there’s absolutely no doubt
glassware in the background. “To be honest, I’m a
about that,” she confirms. “When I went into
very competitive person.”
cooking, it was Michelin-starred restaurants that I
A County Antrim native who first started working
was looking at, because I’m very creative. I love the
in kitchens at the age of 16, Smyth’s trailblazing
symphony of flavours and the artistry of cooking in
career has included stints at some of the most
this way; it’s something that grabbed me.”
illustrious restaurants in the world. She cut her
The Michelin milestone gave Smyth an
teeth at Alain Ducasse’s three-Michelin-starred Le
enormous sense of validation, but she stresses that
Louis XV in Monaco, and was just 28 years old when
maintaining the restaurant’s impeccable reputation
she was named Chef Patron of Restaurant Gordon
requires continuous effort. “It just doesn’t get any
Ramsay in London, maintaining the venue’s three-
easier,” she smiles. “You still have to put in the