abc kitchens The Emory LONDON In the sumptuous environs of The Emory, acclaimed French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten puts an elegant spin on market-fresh produce and zingy flavours. Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Photography: Courtesy of Maybourne (unless otherwise stated)
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ack in 2013, the humble pea found itself at the
Ben Boeynaems’ established relationships to kickstart the
centre of a culinary controversy when the globally
process of sourcing ingredients for the new restaurant, as
renowned French chef and restaurateur Jean-Georges
well as carrying out extensive in-person research prior to
Vongerichten made it the hero ingredient of the guacamole
opening. “Luckily, Ben knows a large network of suppliers,
at his abc cocina restaurant in New York. More than a decade
so we were able to meet local purveyors, try their ingredients
(and who knows how many tortilla chips) later, the dish has
to help decide which dishes emulated the same taste and
become one of the culinary magnate’s signature recipes, and
feel as those in New York,” he explains. “We visited local
it’s safe to say that the sweet green pulse has proven its
farmers markets to further develop our connections and
credentials as a dip-worthy ingredient.
understanding of purveyors’ farming practices. It is an
It’s no surprise, then, to see it on the menu at abc
ongoing relationship that we hope to continue to grow and
kitchens, Vongerichten’s new London opening, which brings
develop to work with the best, seasonal, local and organic
the flavours of his New York abc trio – abc kitchen, abcV
ingredients, no matter the season. It is so important to me
and abc cocina – to the British capital for the first time.
as a person, as a chef and as a restaurateur in New York and
The venture, which sits within the ground floor of luxury
around the world.”
operator Maybourne’s lavish new opening and London’s first
Michelin-starred Vongerichten’s food is famously light
all-suite hotel, The Emory, showcases highlights from all
and confidently unfussy, with the chef eschewing the use of
three stateside restaurants with a smash-hits all-day dining
rich meat stocks and creams in favour of vegetable juices,
menu that amalgamates their culinary philosophies (farm-
broths and herbal vinaigrettes. At abc kitchens, this approach
to-table, plant-based and Latin-inspired, respectively).
translates to a menu zinging with lively flavour and texture
The overall approach is driven by the abc brand’s
combinations that blend the sweet, the fiery, the citrus and
trademark commitment to accentuating fresh, organic and
the floral together with harmonious precision. The headline
ethically sourced local produce across its offering. Notable
spring pea guacamole is snappy and refreshing, its garden
partnerships at the London outpost include The Wild Room,
sweetness peppered with sunflower seeds and green chili
a British supplier famous for providing foraged produce
for a hearty kick, while the diver sea scallop tartare sees
such as elderflower and sea kale, as well as Dorset-based
market-fresh shellfish diced with crunchy kohlrabi, nutty
Portland Shellfish, which is known for its crab, lobster,
sesame and shiso for a bitter edge. Vegetables and greens
scallops and clams plucked directly from the English
take centre stage; the heirloom beet carpaccio with avocado
Channel. Vongerichten leaned on his Executive Head Chef
purée manages to encapsulate summery, earthy sweetness,