The Womag. Belle Epoquè Edition
July 2021
The Womag July. Contents.
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26.
44.
8. Contents.
26. Exotic Opulence (Editorial).
10. Editors’ Letter.
32. Restaurants and Cafés to visit.
12. Enola Holmes’ Beyond Elementary
44. A Trip with the Queens (Editorial).
and Not Your Dear.
54. Revive the Belle Epoquè.
20. What was the Gibson Girl Look?
56. Radioactive Review: Marie Curie and
22. Create the Gibson Girl Hair Tuck
the Science of Autonomy.
Updo.
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Editors’ Letter
The Legacy of the Belle Epoquè To understand the present, we should remember the past. Artists, characters, designers had marked our present and made us what we are today. Without the first female suffragist movement that was developed during the Belle Epoquè, the women would not be able to vote today. Even though the roaring 20s are known as the period where the women were independent, during the 1880-1918 first steps were taken. For example, the idea of some women riding bikes, Marie Curie getting into science and the actress Sarah Bernhardt using trousers are just some of the first important signs that will impact later on the future. The fashion also started to change, it became more democratic with the new department stores, enormous architectures based on the opulence. Along with these fashion changes another way of art appeared, the art Nouveau. This was reflected in everything, clothing, interior design, architecture and lifestyle. It was very important for the society to show off, the opulence and the exotism of this art helped to embrace the power of the people. The organic fibers and patterns, such as fur, feather, exotic animals and flowers were part of the idea of this art. Jewelry as well as interior design were the principal things for the period. Another way for the upper class to show off were the big events such as the opera, horse races, house parties, etc. This magazine edition wants to honor and embrace some of the art, female characters, spirit and lifestyle of this period's society. This era not only brougth the opulance and exotism but also first steps to progress on future societies.
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Enola Holmes’ Beyond Elementary, and Not Your Dear. Millie Bobby Brown stars as a teenager with sleuth skills that rival her famous brother's in this charming feature. By Lovia Gyarkye
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Millie Bobby Brown becomes Enola Holmes.
he year is 1884 and Enola Holmes is on a mission - to find her mother, escape her brothers and live life on her own terms. It’s a tall order for the teenage sister of Sherlock Holmes, whose age and gender make her battle an uphill one. But her will won’t be broken, and in the Netflix film "Enola Holmes," directed by Harry Bradbeer, our title character proves this to anyone in doubt. After Enola (Millie Bobby Brown of "Stranger Things") discovers on the morning of her 16th birthday that her mother (Helena Bonham Carter) has disappeared, she reluctantly finds herself under the care of her brothers Mycroft (Sam Claflin) and Sherlock (Henry Cavill). Mycroft wants to send Enola to finishing school, but Enola, who has been raised by her mother to be independent, refuses to have her identity defined by domesticity. Motivated by a set of clues left by her mother, Enola escapes to London. On herway to the city, she crosses paths with Tewkesbury (Louis Patridge), a young lord
also on the run from a suffocating fate. Thepair form a predictable (but no less tender) bond. While Enola looks for her mother and tackles other mysteries in the process, England is on the cusp of change, with an expansion of voting rights being decided in the House of Lords. 'Enola Holmes" converges around the stakes of democracy, including the work of suffragists fighting for widespread representation. The film is successful in balancing these broad themes with our heroine's adventures and that is due in large part to the work of Brown, whose energetic performance breathes new life into the Holmes creative world. On the surface, “Enola Holmes" is about a young woman in search of herself, but the film's value comes from a deeper investigation of power, familial bonds and the risks of changing a world determined to stay the same. Enola Holmes Rated PG-13 for some violence. Running time: 2 hours 3 minutes. Watch on Netflix.
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The Gibson Girl popularized at the turn of the 20th century by American artist Charles Dana Gibson was the feminine ideal of the time. In many ways, the juxtaposing paradigms of slender and graceful physiques, paired with ample feminine assets (bosom and hips) to create an exaggerated hourglass shape have stuck with society, enjoying revival over and over again. What, exactly, was the Gibson Girl look, and why was it so popular? Is it still considered a beauty ideal today? 20 The Womag.
he idealized Gibson Girl was characterized physically by a willowy waist offset by a curvy figure with wider hips and bosom. This look paired two separate feminine ideals of the time: the frail and slender damsel and her more robust and voluptuous counterpart. This combined look was indicative of the fashions of the time, including corsetry meant to narrow the waistline in order to create a strong, hourglass figure. However, Gibson was selling more than just a particular image of feminine beauty – he was selling a lifestyle. The Gibson Girl was always dressed in the fashion of the day, and always appropriately attired for her activity, putting her squarely in the middle to upper-middle class. In other words, he was identifying images with a population with disposable income and pressure to marry well. The Gibson Girl was well-appointed, fit and active, intelligent, independent, and confident. She was also interested in empower
ment through education and work. However, the Gibson Girl was a product of her time, which included the idea of Republican Motherhood. All of the enlightened thinking behind this accomplished young lady was with the aim of becoming a suitable partner and a supportive mother. Does the Gibson Girl Live On? In many ways, the archetypal Gibson Girl gave way to the modern woman. The idea that women are equal to men and that we can have it all (job, family, etc.) saw it’s seeds in the Gibson Girl. In addition, the ideals of feminine beauty captured by the statuesque, but curvy figure of the Gibson Girl have long characterized the landscape of American fashion. Women today still crave the perfect hourglass silhouette that can be found with the use of waist training corsets. Fortunately, we’ve left behind the idea that bettering ourselves is only a means to nabbing the perfect partner. 21 The Womag.
Create the Gibson Girl Hair Tuck Updo The Gibson girl hair updo is a favorite hairstyle idea of ours for many reasons. It’s hard to think of an occasion when this simple yet elegant updo wouldn’t be appropriate. Whether it’s for your company holiday party or a friend’s baby shower or for date night, this hairstyle will have you looking glam in just 10 minutes.
Start with second-day hair. Hair that is a little dirty is the perfect base for this updo hairstyle. Your hair will be less slippery and it will be a lot easier to secure it in place.
Refresh your hair. Spray your hair with some Dry Shampoo. It’ll work to cleanse and refresh your strands in seconds and prep you for the Gibson Girl hair.
Create a side part. A deep side part adds a lot of character to a simple updo like this one. Use a rat-tail comb to create a side part on whichever side of your head feels more comfortable.
Create twists. Smooth out your hair with a drop of serum, to tame any frizz in your hair look. Twist two strands of your hair from the front of your hairline, towards the back of your head.
Pin your hair in place. Using two bobby pins in a criss-cross X shape, pin the twist to the back of your head. Repeat steps five and six on the other side of your head. The Gibson girl hair has begun.
Gather your hair. Gather the rest of your hair into a low ponytail that sits just above the nape of your neck.
Pull your hair through. Use your fingers to create a small hole above your hair tie. Then, flip the rest of your hair through this newly formed hole.
Gently tuck it in. Flip the ponytail up and push it inside the hole to make sure that all the loose ends are tucked in. Your Gibson girl hair is almost complete!
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Pull your hair through. Use your fingers to create a small hole above your hair tie. Then, flip the rest of your hair through this newly formed hole.
Pin into place and Lock in. Clip your hair in place with a few bobby pins. And last but not least, lock in your awesome new Gibson Girl hair tuck with a mist of Finishing Spray.
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Exotic OPULENCE An overflowing opulence inspires the designers of the autum 2021 collections. The green, black and gold colour scheme of several looks take us back to amazing 1900’s gardens.
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Restaurants & Cafés to visit We show you our top 3 places inspired by the Art Nouaveu Style.
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3. WINE WORKSHOP BY B3
eet B3, London-based creative designers responsible for some of the most fresh and stylistic contemporary interiors around; bars, restaurants, hotels and spaces. For each client represented, they offer personality, character and jazz. 28 – 50° Wine Workshop shows their personality, represented with texture based forms of furniture, from lighting installations and filling of forms in a modern yet art nouveau-based comfort. It’s a trendy yet antique feel in this London workshop. The atmosphere is relaxed, comfortable and easy, to enjoy the tastes of the best vino offered, crafting a unique experience that is distinctive of 28 – 50°. Al-fresco dining is featured throughout, from lighting and seats. Enjoy!
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2. LES BAINS DOUCHES he legendary Les Bains, a former 19th Century bathhouse turned nightclub, is reborn into a hybrid hotel dripping with soulful decadence. It was originally built in 1885 as Les Bains Guerbois, a private thermal bath house founded by Francois Auguste Guerbois—who also owned the bohemian mecca Cafe Guerbois in Montmartre, beloved by Edouard Manet and Emile Zola. In 1978, the ailing building was resurrected as the nightclub Les Bains Douches, which, designed by a relatively unknown Philippe Starck, became a playground to glitterati including Yves Saint-Laurent and Catherine Deneuve. In spite of the design pedigree, it’s hard not to expect the odd aesthetic stumble when hearing the hotel’s concept. Yet, most aspects of Les Bains exist in relative harmony. The most notable design thread, however, stems from Starck’s iconic black-and-white checkered dancefloor, crafted from kitchen tiles.This tile fixation begins in the lobby, where ornamental Art Nouveau patterns are given a pixelated update; the motif morphs a second time in the restaurant-bar, where it finally becomes the famous checkerboard. Upstairs in the rooms, Starck’s tiles make an unexpected appearance, embellishing that usual eyesore, the mini-bar fridge. In the hotel’s basement, a smaller but faithful replica of the original nightclub—with the notorious swimming pool just off the dancefloor—opened in June.It’s a fitting tribute to the building’s hedonist past that doesn’t encroach on the hotel’s generally understated elegance, as the club’s subterranean existence allows adequate separation between revelling and rest.
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Les Bains Douches
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1. HOUSE OF MILLENIUM
ouse of Millenium is a restaurant and cafe in a historical Budapest building which was once an exhibition hall for the Hungarian National Millennium Exhibition in 1896. Originally decorated with Zsolnay porcelain, Hungarian architecture studios Kiss Miklos and Archikon redesigned the place with deep green color, exaggerated large-scale knick-knacks, plates and vases with a strong Art Nouveau feeling. Kiss Miklos redesigned the pattern of an old Art Nouveau vase and created a brand new collection especially for the restaurant in collaboration with porcelain and pottery manufacturer Zsolnay.
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A trip with the Queens
The Belle Epoquè parties and bazaars inspires Drag Queens in their outfits. Hypnotic owners that attract with their corsets, colors and dresses.
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Revive the Belle Epoquè This films would make you feel part of the period.
Le Bazar de la Charité: The series begins with the depiction of a true event, the fire at the Bazar de la Charité in Paris, May 4, 1897, in which 126 people died. Planning to visit the bazaar is Adrienne de Lenverpré, an upper-class woman who seeks to escape from her marriage to her tyrant husband, Marc-Antoine de Lenverpré, a candidate for the President of the Senate. While Adrienne's niece, Alice de Jeansin, along with her close confidant and maidservant, Rose Rivière, attend the bazaar the fire breaks out. Adrienne, who had entered the event earlier but left to meet her paramour, realizes to her horror that she, too, could have been inside. From there the plot revolves around the aftermath of the conflagration and the lives of the three women.
Enola Holmes: Enola is the youngest sibling in the famous Holmes family. She is extremely intelligent, observant, and insightful, and defies the social norms for women of the time. Her mother, Eudoria, has taught her everything from chess to jujitsu and encouraged her to be a strong-willed and independent thinking young woman.
Houdini: Is a two-part, History channel miniseries. It stars Adrien Brody as Harry Houdini and features the life of the legendary illusionist and escape artist from poverty to worldwide fame. 54 The Womag.
Lady and the Tramp: On Christmas Day, Jim Dear gives his wife Darling a female American Cocker Spaniel as a gift. Darling names her Lady, and she fits right in. Lady grows and becomes friends with her neighbor dogs. Meanwhile, a nameless Schnauzer-mutt, Tramp, spends his days wandering the streets of New Orleans in search of food and causing trouble for the dog catcher Elliot. Lady, beside herself after being ignored by the adults, finds Tramp and tries to give away his position until he points out that Darling is having a baby. He warns her that her owners will start to ignore her, but she does not believe him.
Madame Curie: In 1934, Marie Curie collapses in her laboratory in Paris. As she is rushed to the hospital, she remembers her life. In 1893 she was frequently rejected for funding due to her gender but entered a partnership with Pierre Curie. After Marie discovered polonium and radium, the two fell in love, were married, and had two children. Soon, Marie announces the discovery of radioactivity, revolutionizing physics and chemistry. Radium is soon used in a series of commercial products. Pierre takes Marie to a seance where radium is used to attempt to contact the dead, but Marie disapproves of spiritualism and the idea of an afterlife after the death of her mother in Poland.
Oz the Great and Powerful: In 1905 Kansas, Oscar Diggs is a magician and con artist in a traveling circus. The circus strongman learns Oscar has flirted with his wife and threatens him. Oscar escapes in a hot air balloon but is sucked into a tornado that takes him to the Land of Oz. There he encounters the naïve witch Theodora, who believes him to be the wizard prophesied to become King of Oz by defeating the Wicked Witch, who killed the previous king. The idea of being a wealthy monarch makes Oscar accept the role. En route to the Emerald City, they encounter the flying monkey, Finley, who pledges a life debt to Oscar when he saves him from a lion. Oscar reveals his deception to Finley and forces him to maintain the idea that he is the wizard.
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“Radioactive” Review: Marie Curie and the Science of Autonomy Rosamund Pike plays the pioneering scientist who won two nobel Prizes while raising tvo daughters (one won her own nobel).
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Radioactive”, a thoughtful, very watchable fictionalized portrait of Marie Curie, tries hard to nudge the halo off its subject. Given her endeavors and accolades - including two Nobel Prizes - this simple, humanizing effort proves tough but also feels necessary. One of the most celebrated scientists of the 20th century, Curie has long been lauded as a pioneer and is the only woman to win a Nobel twice, having first shared the prize for physics in 1903. Eight years later, she won for chemistry, defying a scandal to pick up her award and remind the world that she merited a claim on history. "Radioactive" gives Curie her due while complicating her legacy. She and her husband, Pierre, discovered polonium and radium - she coined the word radioact vity - work which led to medical advances and the atomic bomb. For his Nobel lecture, Pierre Curie alluded to the ominous import of their findings, asking "whether mankind benefits from knowing the secrets of Nature, whether it is ready to profit from it or whether this knowledge will not be harmful for it." (The antediluvian Nobel speaker at the ceremony referred to Marie as a help meet, citing Genesis.) It takes a little while for "Radioactive" to find its groove. It opens with Marie - Rosamund Pike, in sunglasses and under a schrnear of jowly wrinkles - collapsing and being carted off to a hospital. The mists of time quickly clear and Marie is soon in Paris in 1893, where she bumps into the flirty, goateed Pierre (Sam Riley), who marvels that she is reading about microbiology. It's a strained meet cute, but the director Marjane Satrapi has more than romance in mind, and you're soon racing with Marie to a showdown with some Sorbonne graybeards. This brisk pace largely continues for the rest of the movie as Marie hurtles through time, making history, trouble and babies.
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Sashay Away.
Belle Epoquè