The magazine for the professional brewing industry
Brewers J o u r n a l
February 2019 | Volume 5, issue 1 ISSN 2059-6669
hackney BREWERY
WHY 2019 COULD BE THEIR BIGGEST YEAR YET
29 | FLOORING: BUILD YOUR BREWERY ON SOLID GROUND
37 | BY THE HORNS: EXPANSION AND GROWTH
55 | WHEAT BEER, PHENOLS AND ESTERS
le ad e r
full steam ahead
W
ell, we made it. I’m not sure about you, but January seemed to be one long month. Sure, I’ll end up contradicting myself later in 2019 asking “Where has the year gone?” but either way, it’s a relief to see the daylight hours slowly starting to increase. While many individuals like to partake in Dry January, I’d like to say a big well done to Mike, Daisy and the team behind Tryanuary, the initiative designed to encourage support for the beer industry throughout the first month of the year. January is clearly a challenging month for business, and detractors often argue that it’s not their responsibility or obligation to support an industry they give ample trade to over the remaining 11 months of the year. But personally, I think campaigns such as Tryanuary are a fantastic idea, and I know a lot of hard work goes into promoting those beers, breweries, bars and bottle shops. So with the year well underway, attention is firmly turning to beer release schedules, festivals, takeovers and collaborations. Here at the magazine, we kickstarted 2019 by relaunching our website (www. brewersjournal.info) and announcing the lineup of fantastic speakers taking part in the Brewers Lectures in Manchester on the 6th February and Birmingham on the 14th March. We’re also excited to be hosting the Brewers Lectures in Nottingham and Glasgow for the first time as well as returning to The Institution of Civil Engineers in London for the Brewers Congress on the 28th November. I’m thrilled that my colleague, and the host of the 2018 Brewers Congress, Velo Mitrovich is the voice of the new Brewers Lectures Podcast. Launched in January, the series is published fortnightly and delves deep into a wealth of industry issues.
brewersjournal.info
editor's choice John Keeling recalls his early experiences at Fuller's, and how these shaped him as a brewer - page 14
Upcoming episodes place the spotlight on topics as diverse as growth, expansion, mental health and barrel-ageing. We’ll also be taking the opportunity to tell the story of the some of the sector’s leading lights. Point your browser here to subscribe! brewerspodcast. reby.media If that isn’t enough to keep you busy, we have the latest column from brewing legend John Keeling, an in-depth look at Wheat Beer, Esters & Phenols thanks to Lallemand UK, and much more. We also tell the story of two of London’s modern breweries, Hackney Brewery and By The Horns. There were close to 100 fewer breweries in operation in the capital when those outfits started business and while they brew in different parts of London, they’re bonded by their ability to put out excellent beers in a quiet, diligent manner. Until next time, enjoy the issue and I hope to see you at some of our upcoming events! u Tim Sheahan Editor
February 2018
3
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February 2018
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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Brewers Journal ISSN 2059-6650 is published bimonthly by Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA. The Brewers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.
Brewers Journal
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co nte nt s
contents 29
37
14
55
46
Cover story 20 - Hackney Brewery could be considered something of a veteran of the modern London brewing scene, quietly and diligently putting out quality, consistent beers
Brewers Lectures
Sector | canning
12 - The full lowdown on Brewers Lectures Birmingham, taking place on 14 March, 2019
34 - A focus on the recent Enterprise Tondelli canning line install at Alloa's Williams Bros
Dear John
Meet The Brewer | by the horns
14 - John Keeling recalls his early experiences at Fuller's, and how these shaped him as a brewer, both in and outside of work
37 - How the Wandsworth outfit has gone on to establish itself as a leading London brewery
Sector | production COMMENTS 16 - Real Ale discuss the qualities demanded by retailers such as M&S 18 - Dr Keith Thomas, founder of Brewlab, looks at the benefits of forcing your beer
Sector | flooring 29 - Why quality flooring,drainage and coatings provide the foundations on which the rest of your brewery is built
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February 2018
43 - How software can elevate your brewery
crossing contients | muskoka 46 - Ontario, Canada's Muskoka don't like to rush things, and their beer is all the better for it
science | yeast 55 - Wheat Beer, Esters and Phenols: How to influence them to your advantage 61 - How foam can make a truly great beer
Brewers Journal
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n e ws
Brewers Journal collaborates on Brewers Congress beer T
he Brewers Journal has collaborated on a one-off
in London last month, was brewed the day before
beer to celebrate the recent Brewers Congress event,
November’s Brewers Congress event, which brought
held in London at the end of last year. Hosted and brewed at Fuller’s, the Congress Porter
together nearly 300 professionals from across the brewing industry.
was the culmination of a project that also featured Leeds-
Tim Sheahan, editor of The Brewers Journal, who
based Northern Monk, Jenn Merrick’s new brewery Earth
helped organise the collaboration, said it was a genuine
Station, Williamsburg, Brooklyn-based KCBC and also
privilege to work alongside such experienced brewers
The Brewers Journal.
and on the new pilot kit at Fuller’s.
Coming in at 6.4%, the rich, full-bodied Porter, was
He explained: “I’ve grown up drinking Fuller’s beers so
brewed with generous amounts of coffee from North
to be able to take part in a brew day at the brewery was a
Star Coffee Roasters in Leeds and a mix of dark sugars
real thrill. Hayley and George are incredibly talented and
produced by Tate & Lyle, London.
to work with them was very special.
The brew was overseen by Fuller’s Hayley Marlor and
“You then add Jenn, Colin, Pete and Brian to the mix
featured the expertise of Georgina Young, head brewer
and you have a collection of some of the finest brewers
at Fuller’s, Brian Dickson and Colin Stronge, head brewer
around. The beer has a great depth, it is full-bodied and
and production manager of Northern Monk respectively,
the coffee notes are well pronounced.
Jenn Merrick, founder of Earth Station and Pete Lengyel, co-founder of KCBC. The beer, which was launched at Micro Beers
brewersjournal.info
"Even though it comes in at 6.4%, it’s incredibly easy to drink, which is testament to the skills of the brewing team.”
February 2018
9
n e ws
Northern Monk revamps branding Russell Bisset, founder of Northern Monk said he wanted the brand revamp to convey his passion for “maximalist” experiences. “Whether it’s in music, art, or beer, I’ve always been a fan of multi-layered experiences and the depth that comes with that,” he explained. “We want to build on the success of our Patrons Project series and offer something that builds upon the values Northern Monk stand for." He added: “We also want to challenge the perceived notion of what northern is. The cans don’t solely need to
N
orthern Monk has said it wants to challenge the
be images of rusty steel and the like. It’s about respecting
“perceived notion of what northern is” following
heritage and pushing things forward.”
a total brand refresh that involves rebranded core packaging, an updated logo and a new website. The brewery, which has updated the packaging of its core beers, has also added two new beers to that family in the form of Origin, a 5.7% gluten-free IPA and Striding
The rebrand comes on the back of a strong 2018 which featured a successful crowdfunding campaign, expansion, new beers and the opening of its second refectory site, in Manchester. “It was an incredible year, and not without its
Edge a light IPA that was well-received when initially
challenges,” he said. “We took the big step from a small
launched as part of Northern Monk’s Patrons Project
group of friends to a large group of friends, and ones
series.
that needed to increase the organisational aspects of the
Its rebrand has been completed by Leeds-based strategic brand design agency, Robot Food. The
business, and all that comes with it.” With the opening of its Manchester refectory under its
refreshed logo has been designed to feature a much
belt, attention is also turning to other sites along with new
cleaner, simpler compass design, with the original monk
projects.
icon remaining the same. On the can designs, Robot Food used illustration and
Bisset said: “We are thrilled to have opened Manchester and its safe to say we are actively looking at
colour to create a world around the beers, capturing the
Liverpool. We’re happy for Bundobust to be the canary
emotion behind each.
when opening in new cities!
Colour is used to evoke the nature of each beer style
“In all seriousness, we both see the value in opening
and flavour, from calming session-able blues to bold, fiery
in the same cities. Going forward, I’m eager to explore
IPAs. Each beer has been given its own personality and
the opportunities in Glasgow and Newcastle, as well as
story that was then used to influence the illustration.
London.”
Brewers encouraged to apply for grant funding
of the BBPA’s original headquarters in Portman Square,
The fund was created through proceeds from the sale central London. The Worshipful Company of Brewers
P
eople working across the brewing industry are being
acts as Trustee and administers the fund, with the BBPA
encouraged to apply for grant funding.
promoting the fund and providing the secretariat.
Through the Brewers’ Research & Education Fund
Brigid Simmonds, chief executive of the BBPA
(BREF), applicants have little three months to submit
explained: “The Brewers’ Research & Education Fund has
their bids, with a deadline for funding applications of 31st
supported many important projects over the years and
March 2019.
is an important legacy from the Brewers’ Society and the
The BREF supports vital research into projects of potential benefit to the brewing industry, such as improving brewery environmental footprint, dispense hygiene surveys and developing new hop varieties, as well as a range of educational activities. Full details of the applications process can be obtained via the British Beer & Pub Association website.
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February 2018
Institute of Brewing. "I’m delighted the fund is open for another year and look forward to receiving applications.” Michael O’Dwyer, the Clerk to the Brewers’ Company, added: “The Brewers’ Research & Education Fund is a great example of the Brewers’ Company’s focus on investing in the future of the brewing industry."
Brewers Journal
STEINECKER
Brewing technology #GermanBlingBling #Steinecker
We do more.
b r e w e r s
le c tu r e s
b i rm i ngham
Brewers Lectures | birmingham The Brewers Lectures is coming to Birmingham for the first time. Hitting the Midlands on the evening of 14th March, featuring a fantastic lineup of speakers, the Brewers Lectures is an event not to be missed.
W
e are spoilt for choice when it comes to the fantastic beer being made across the UK and Ireland.
KEY INFORMATION
Brewing hotspots such as Leeds, Manchester, London and Bristol
take many of the the plaudits but the Midlands is home to some truly innovative outfits producing superb beer. The Brewers Lectures takes place in Birmingham on
The Old Library Gibb Street, Birmingham B9 4AT
the 14th March and with it, engaging and entertaining talks from leading industry figures. Traditionally, the Brewers Lectures have taken place
14 March 2019 15.30pm to 9pm
from lunchtime, concluding late afternoon. This time out though, we are starting a little later at 15:30pm. So if you’re on an early shift, come on down! The event will finish early evening with post-event drinks served at the venue, offering the perfect opportunity to catch up with friends old and new. So if you’re a Wolves fan (boo), West Brom fan (boo),
As we all come to these events from differing backgrounds and differing means, we have made all tickets available for free, we just ask you to make a small donation if you are able so that we can continue to run these events.
Birmingham fan (boo). Coventry fan (boo) or Aston Villa fan (yay!), then come along.
12
February 2018
Go to lectures.brewersjournal.info
Brewers Journal
b i rm i ngham
speakers Russell Bisset | Northern Monk Russell Bisset is the founder of Leeds-based Northern Monk. In five short years, the business has grown into one of the top 100 breweries in the world according to Ratebeer, and exports to 23 countries worldwide. Northern Monk has recently just revamped its branding, broadened its core range of beers and in 2018, opened its second refectory bar, this time in Manchester. Jen Ferguson | Hop Burns & Black Jen Ferguson is the co-founder of London’s Hop Burns & Black. Priding itself of being home to “the world's greatest obsessions in one place”, the business specialises in craft beer, hot sauce and records. Operating two shops/ tasting rooms in Peckham and Deptford, the business also sells craft cider, mead, organic and natural wine and small batch spirits. Since opening, it has been awarded Time Out Love London Winner: Peckham's Most Loved Shop 2015/2016 and Celebrate British Beer Awards: London Retailer of the Year 2016 + 17 among others.
brewersjournal.info
b r e w e r s
le c tu r e s
Sam Millard | Beavertown Brewery Sam Millard is the brand and communications manager at Beavertown Brewery. Celebrating his fourth year with the North London business this April, Sam has helped develop Beavertown’s brand identities, as well as establish the brewery’s hugely successful Extravaganza event. Attracting the best part of 20,000 drinkers over the 2017 and 2018 events? Not bad, not bad at all… Andy Parker | Elusive Brewing Andy Parker is an award-winning home brewer, author and the owner of Berkshire-based Elusive Brewing. The brewery has made waves across the UK, producing beers that have one eye on tradition and the other on taking things to the next level. He's a bloomin' nice chap, too.
proudly sponsored by
February 2018
13
Co m m e nt
dear
john
Give and Take Many brewers have learned from John Keeling, the former head brewer at Fuller’s. Equally, he spent much of his brewing career seeking wisdom from others, too. Here, he touches upon some of the changes to take place during his time at the West London brewery and explains that the power of the team is always greater than the individual. by john keeling
I
and Reg Drury, the newly appointed brewing director. I later found out that Graham had been a brewer for the Army during the war and had served on a ship that was a floating brewery. Reg, of course, was a great influence on me. He was the person who taught me how to be a head brewer in their brewery, how to plan for the future, how to deal with other departments and how to look after your team. During my time with the brewery. Fuller’s has always been great investors in the future and new technology. I worked for Reg on many great projects including Fuller’s first new brewhouse for 125 years. Other projects included a new cask line, kegging line, warehouse, bottling line and numerous tank farms. In fact, we rebuilt
joined Fuller’s in January 1981. At that time, Fuller’s
the brewery under Reg and I saw first hand the pressure
produced about 70,000 barrels per year and it
put on him to succeed.
owned 90 pubs. Around 80% of the brewery’s beer went to their pubs while the rest went to free trade. Bottling mainly produced bottled Guinness, the
The future of Fuller’s was in his hands. When Reg decided to retire, he told me that one of the reasons was that the cask line was wearing out and he
kegger mainly handled lager bought in under contract
didn’t want to be the man to replace it. He was tired of the
and the cask line, by far the biggest volume, produced
stress and strain.
London Pride, ESB and Chiswick.
Instead, I would have to do it
Indeed, such was the demand for cask beer that
I remember when we first produced London Porter.
each one of those was produced in barrels (36-gallon
After racking it into cask, it turned out to be very flat and
containers) and firkins were a relatively small volume.
Reg was worried. We stood next to the casks sampling
As an aside, the bottled Guinness from Fuller’s had
them and realising they were all flat. Reg asked what
a very good reputation and at the time, Fuller’s used
should we do?
flash pasteurisation for their beers rather than tunnel pasteurisation. This meant we were very good at sterile filling, something that helped enormously when we went on to produce bottle conditioned Fuller's beers. Now, Fuller's produces around 205,000 barrels of beer
I answered by saying that the beer had enough fermentable sugar and the yeast was viable. All it needed was time. Reg seized on this and told me I was right and that we would give it four days on the floor to make the condition.
per year and own nearly 400 pubs. Nearly 80% of the
Of course, Reg would have realised this but with all the
beer is sold outside of Fuller’s pubs and barrels have long
other pressures on him he hadn’t got the time to think.
since disappeared, while firkins are nearly 100 % of the
I was glad that on this occasion I could do the thinking
racking output. There are very few kilderkins produced.
for him. This made me realise that a problem shared is a
Bottled Guinness has also sadly disappeared, with the
truly a problem halved. The power of the team is always
bottling line running flat out producing Fuller's beers
greater than the individual.
for the export market and supermarkets. Kegging still
Fuller’s were one of the first breweries to use conical
produces lots of keg contracted lager but Fuller’s keg
fermenters for ale and started to use centrifuges in
beers have grown considerably.
1976! At the time they dabbled with becoming an all
The market has changed and Fuller’s have changed with the market. When I was interviewed for the job of junior brewer,
keg brewery for draught beer. They quickly decided against this when CAMRA arrived on the scene, but quickly adapted new technology for the production of
which carried a starting salary of £5,000, the process was
cask beer, which gave the beer greater consistency and
carried out by Graham Ure the retiring brewing director
quality. Fuller's never won a prize using the old open
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February 2018
Brewers Journal
dear
squares, all their prizes were won with conical brewed and centrifuged beers. Funny enough it wasn’t Reg’s idea to get centrifuges but Philip Eliot’s. Philip was what everybody called a character. He was, in actual fact, the uncle of Anthony Fuller and the assistant head brewer. He ran brewing, fermentation and maturation. My first job was to work for him. I greatly enjoyed it even though Philip had a bit of a temper, which would blow up quickly but just as quickly disappear. He was a very fair man who after bawling you out would then insist on buying you a pint, although it would be Chiswick Bitter (he never drank or bought
anything else). When he retired we calculated that he accounted for 0.5% of the total Chiswick sales. One of the things he did for me was tell me, months before informing the company, that he was to retire. He then told me I had six months to learn his job so that I would be the logical choice to take over from him. He got me my first promotion, although I dare say Reg had me marked out for this also. Another person who had a great influence on me was Ken Don, the head brewer of Wandsworth-based Young’s. He really showed me how to be a head brewer outside of your brewery. Ken has always helped young brewers and put plenty back in to the industry he loves. He was chairman of the Heriot-Watt former brewer’s
brewersjournal.info
john
co m m e nt
“
A problem shared is a truly a problem halved. The power of the team is always greater than the individual.
association, sat on the advisory board and was chairman of the London and South Section of the brewer’s guild. I too have held all those positions because I also want to put something back in the industry. Finally, Ken loved meeting drinkers and did many meet the brewer events, something I enjoy doing to. This really does keep you in touch with the drinker and enables you to interpret marketing data better
I have tried to take all those influences and use them
as an inspiration for my own work in brewing. Hopefully, in another article, I will write about my years as a brewing director and look at how Fuller’s changed in that period and how I put into practice everything I had been taught. u
February 2018
15
Co m m e nt
T est i ng
Forcing your beer Few quality tests are as simple to perform and informative to the brewer as that provided by time. Time and a little manipulation of temperature, explains Dr Keith Thomas, founder of Brewlab, a leading provider of brewing courses, training & analysis. by Dr Keith Thomas
F
ew quality tests are as simple to perform and informative to the brewer as that provided by time. Time and a little manipulation of temperature. Forcing tests tell you the worst, the
best and the likely condition of your beer at the end of production and in trade. Either cask or bottle. Moreover, they can be an essential part of your due diligence and so provide some legal standing in case of dispute. All they require is a controlled environment, some time and observation. Firstly, take a simple example where you need to know whether your collected wort before pitch is contaminated with microorganisms. For this you simply collect a sample
indication of consistency. Forcing tests typically involve accelerating the ageing
in a sterile container and incubate it at a temperature
of your sample and observing changes and problems
between 25 and 30oC. Observation of changes over the
before your customer does. In some cases, such as with
next few days will indicate the presence of spoilage. A
wort samples, the results will be available before your
clear beer without fermentation and with no surface skin
beer leaves the brewery. In others it may be retrospective
or off-flavours suggests a clean collection. The presence
information for suggesting corrective action but also
of these suggests a problem.
predictive against customer complaint. Either way it is
In a more extended example you may wish to provide a shelf life on your bottled beer. For this take a dozen
valuable knowledge. As suggested in the examples above forcing tests can
samples from the production run and incubate at 28oC
be divided into those relevant to the brewing process
for up to twelve weeks. Observe one bottle each week for
and those applicable to finished product. Wort samples
clarity and contamination. The number of weeks the beer
suitable for forcing are typically those taken as the wort
remains in good condition roughly indicates the number
is collected into the copper. This is a critical point for
of months of shelf life in standard retail conditions.
contamination by microorganisms where even small
Of course, it is impractical to wait 12 weeks before
numbers can rapidly multiply to cause problems, even in
you stamp the shelf life on a batch of bottles but given
the presence of yeast. Similar samples taken at racking
constant production conditions it is reasonable to
can indicate potential spoilage after fermentation.
extrapolate from one batch to another. If differences are evident then comparison of batches will give you an
16
February 2018
Standard laboratory tests will be able to detect and identify contaminants and are important on a regular but
Brewers Journal
T est i ng
co m m e nt
intermittent basis. Forcing tests can be conducted on
degree of clarity. Whatever test you devise try to keep
every brew, however, to provide a broader indication of
a consistent approach and record your observations for
consistency. Moreover, failed samples can be forwarded
future comparisons.
to the laboratory for detailed investigations. It is essential that samples for forcing are collected in
Forcing tests on bottled beer allow you to assess changes in the bottle by swirling the contents and also
sterile containers. For this it is best to obtain disposable 30
by pouring out a glass to see clarity, view head formation
or 60ml plastic bottles rather than chance an incomplete
and check flavour.
sterilisation of glass bottles or, more likely, the caps.
Observations on forcing samples can be simply visual
During incubation remember that contaminated samples
but should also include aroma and taste tests. These
may ferment and produce pressure in the bottles so caps
allow you to compare samples to your expected flavours
should be kept loose. Again, plastic bottles are preferable
as well as using off flavours to identify the causes of faults.
in case an explosion does occur and it is worth using
It’ s a hard job but all part of a brewer’ s lot.
gloves and goggles when you open any bottle. Whatever your arrangements keep your samples well
More extensive tests can include microscope observations and pH measurements or perhaps haze or
away from the brewhouse so that any contamination does
protein assessments on precipitations. In other cases, a
not transfer to your fermentations.
high temperature accelerated test at 65oC or of a cycle
Keeping your samples at constant temperature will
of high and low temperatures followed by tannin titrations
require an incubator of sorts. Second hand laboratory
can indicate protein stability. However, this level of
equipment may be available at reasonable cost but it
dedication is some distance away from the use of forcing
is possible to construct an insulated box with a small
as a quick and simple indication of performance.
thermostatic heater to provide a similar service. In
For the smaller brewery the ideal is a balance between
addition, a shelf with an illuminated back made of opaque
time, investment and information. A few pots on a shelf
glass will assist in visualizing clarity. Viewing a barcode
provides at least the basis of this and the benefit of
through the sample bottle can help to further define the
keeping one step ahead of your product. u
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Co m m e nt
D i str i but i on
One size doesn’t fit all There are a number of qualities a business such as Marks & Spencer require from a supplier. These include innovation, provenance and good timing. And you’ll need them all in equal measure, says Jonathan Charlton, business development manager at Real Ale. by jonathan charlton
R
eal Ale is unusual in that we wear two hats, specialist drinks retailer and key supplier to M&S. We have been promoting smaller breweries and wineries through our own stores since 2005. We’ve also worked with
M&S for over ten years and supply them with over 200 different branded and own label products. We’ve been instrumental in the introduction of its craft can ranges
future trends, not just in the UK but also in Europe and
and multipacks and brewers often ask us ‘How do we get
the US. In the four years that I have worked at Real Ale,
listed?’
things have changed quite significantly. M&S has moved
In short, M&S are looking for innovation, quality, point
from traditional 500ml bottles to 330ml bottles and most
of difference and consistency. The product also needs to
recently to cans and multi-packs. There is also now more
fit. I would strongly suggest that any brewery that wants
ciders and low alcohol options included in the ranges and
to be listed should visit M&S stores and look at the kind of
a mixture of traditional and newer brands from which to
beer/cider/lager ranges that they stock. The styles, types
choose.
of hops and ingredients they favour. Think how your brand
One key difference in the US compared to the UK is
would fit within, complement or expand the range and
the availability of higher A.B.V. brands through national
whether it would appeal to their target demographic. M&S
retailers. Because of the duty on high A.B.V. brands in the
is different to other national retailers – one size definitely
UK you are less likely to find them in multiple retailers. You
does not fit all. Probably best to keep those with
can find high A.B.V. products in M&S, but it is not the norm,
controversial names or packaging in your own portfolio.
most sit within the 3 per cent to 5.5 per cent A.B.V. level.
Although M&S is primarily an own-label retailer, it
Our aim is to make the journey as painless as possible for
does also list brewery branded products. The popularity
the breweries we work with. Our technical team includes
of individual branded beers, gives the retailer excellent
a master brewer that helps with M&S own-label products.
insight into consumer preferences, which in turn can
We advise on which ingredients M&S are particularly
influence their own-label trends. M&S want products with
interested in and help with tasting notes. We also work
provenance, innovative ingredients, brands that you won’t
with breweries to ensure that all their documentation is
find in every other retailer.
compliant with the conditions set out by M&S own-label
Timing is also crucial, it may sound basic but it’s no good putting forward a brand that if successful, you can’t
products and satisfy the regular audits carried out by them. We are really proud of the work that we do, not only
fulfil because you don’t have the production capabilities.
because it is recognised by M&S. We recently won their
Currently, M&S own-label products are listed nationally.
2018 Customer Focus Award for bringing more choice to
For brewery branded beers, the listings can range from
the M&S consumer for branded products and growing
a regional to national distribution. So it’s important to
their own-label range. But also because we have helped
balance your own customer demands with that of a listing
many smaller breweries gain national profile through
with M&S. We work collaboratively with the M&S buying,
supplying M&S, making a significant difference to the
technical and product development teams, to identify
success of their company and their brands.
18
February 2018
Brewers Journal
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hackney
B rewery
Brewers Journal
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Doing things their own way Established in 2011, Hackney Brewery could be considered something of a veteran of the modern London brewing scene. Starting out as a cask outfit, the company has quietly, and diligently, gone about putting out quality, consistent beers. And like any good business, they’ve changed with the times. With that, it looks like 2019 could the brewery’s biggest year yet.
located minutes off the borough’s frenetic Kingsland Road, is that the team forms one cohesive unit. Despite the absence (owing to paternity leave) of head brewer Darren Walker, Swain, Hills and Christiano are joined by brewer Steve Lawler. This team is completed by Dan Sharp and Kris Kardos in sales, and the brewery’s drivers Reece and Ren. Everyone is playing their role, pulling their weight, and pushing in the same direction. Apart from the dogs, of course. When they’re allowed out, the yard is their stomping ground and who are you to tell them otherwise…. Hackney Brewery is looking to this year with
by tIM sHEAHAN
confidence, and a sense of satisfaction. A major refit completed in 2017 saw them move from a 5bbl
E
brewhouse up to a 15bbl system. Perhaps more
family. There’s Bruce (Health and Safety) who belongs to
The move from having to brew 10 times a week on a 5bbl
the company’s co-founder Jon Swain, while Peter Hills,
kit to five times on a 15bbl setup in the same period was
the brewery’s other co-founder, is proudly accompanied
welcome, too.
very day at Hackney Brewery is a bring your
importantly was the move from open top fermentors
dog to work day. And if that isn’t enough for
to cylindrical vessels. Eight FVs were installed initially
you to want to visit, or perhaps work there,
and another two followed in subsequent months. It
then I’m afraid I can’t help you. You are,
represented a changing of the tides with a move away
perhaps, beyond saving.
from open top vessels and with it, a transition from a
You see, dogs are a big part of the Hackney Brewery
by Gruff (HR) during working hours. You also have Roddy,
business that started out in the production of cask beer.
“We had to pull everything apart,” explains Swain. “The
an eager, bouncy Golden Retriever who’s the newest
original setup served us well, but when you are producing
member of the canine team and an excellent companion
hoppy pales and relying on open-top fermentors, then
to brewer Simone Christiano.
you’re losing all of that aroma right off the bat. The change
Like I said, dogs are an important, nay essential, part of life at Hackney Brewery. And it’s all the better for it. The first thing that strikes you at Hackney Brewery,
brewersjournal.info
with our new brewhouse and the vessels with it has been all important.” Swain and Hills designed the brewhouse, equipment
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that was then fabricated in the UK. Pulling apart the existing 5bbl setup to ascertain what worked, and
B rewery
months that followed. “We started somewhat under the radar and you could
what new additions were needed from the proceeding
argue we’ve remained that way,” says Swain. “It is both a
investment, was never likely to phase the duo. Nor
good thing and a bad thing. We’ve always been a lean
was handling the water, electrics and plumbing. Hardly
team, funded by ourselves and without a great deal of
surprising considering they’ve had experience turning a
major investment in heavy equipment. But we’re happy
disused warehouse into a living space and refurbishing a
with the progress we’ve made.”
boat that Hills now calls home. Swain first met Hills back in 2005 at The Eagle in Farringdon, a resilient and popular spot frequently referred to as the UK’s first Gastropub. What would be
Swain is also amused with talk of how tough the marketplace is in 2019, noting that it was far from a bed of roses in those formative years. “People talk about how challenging it is now, but it was
Swain’s first shift on the bar was Hills’ last. He wasn’t going
hard then!” he laughs. “The thing is, people didn’t know
to far, though. Just to the kitchen, to be exact, where he’d
what craft beer was, so we’d have to call up mates, and
pursue a career as a chef.
lean on previous relationships. Without that early support,
“Like all good ideas, it happened over a few beers. We realised we were both interested in beer and the
we wouldn’t have been able to get going.” And get going, they did. A focus on cask in the early
production of it,” explains Swain. “My dad used to make
years saw a transition to keg in 2014. The sweeping
fruit wines while Peter’s grandad produced those kit
popularity of keg beer, like many breweries, took Hackney
beers you’d buy from the high street. So we delved
with it. Customers were demanding such beer and
straight into making homebrew and in those early days,
the brewery dutifully obliged. Though production on
YouTube was very much our friend.”
a kit designed for cask made such output taxing, and
The duo continued in earnest before Hills departed
exhausting. So when it came to refitting the brewery back
to France to pursue his culinary career. Swain continued
in 2017, the team needed to look inwards and decide
brewing and a role change led him to the historic Charles
what form they wanted the next chapter of Hackney
Lamb pub located in the backstreets of Angel in North
Brewery’s story to take. Since their introduction, beers such as the Kölsch
London. Swain and Hills remained in contact and as the latter’s
and Kapow! have proved incredibly popular, while the
sojourn overseas came to an end, Hills took his culinary
brewery’s Golden Ale, Red Ale and Best Bitter have been
skills to the aforementioned Angel hostelry.
phased out.
“We still had that passion for beer so we visited
It’s a move that’s worked for the business, too. Its keg
breweries such as Brodie’s, Greene king, Sambrook’s
output has continued to grow in quality, consistency
and Redemption to get a better idea of the brewing
and visibility. The 4.7% Kölsch and 4.5% Kapow! Lead
landscape,” says Hills. “While we originally had the idea of
the charge, while the imminent launch of its new XPA
finding our own pub, something we could run alongside
builds upon the success of one of 2018’s standout beers,
some ex-colleagues, we simply couldn’t find a suitable
Unicorn Rodeo.
site and we eventually went our separate ways." Swain adds: “The problem is, one of our old managers
Unicorn Rodeo, a DDH XPA was the perfect tonic to the sweltering heat at the London Brewers Alliance
had explained how he wanted to setup a brewery in
festival, hosted by Fuller’s at its West London brewery
Scotland and retire. We liked that idea. The same day
back in June 2018. The beer was part of a release
Peter saw a brewery van pass by and we took that as a
programme that marked a new dawn at Hackney. Settled
sign. We needed to pursue this. We wanted a brewery!”
on their new kit, and armed with additional capacity, the team were able to engage in collaborations and seasonal
A foot in the door
beers for the first time in their history.
Expansion and experimentation
A
nd by 2011, they had their site, which is located on Laburnum St in E2. Although the Hackney Brewery of 2019 produces hoppy IPAs, Kölsch,
fruited stouts and sours, the original iteration of the business was exclusively cask. Other breweries in the
T
he year kicked off with Sleeping Giants, a 5% New England style produced in collaboration with Brooklyn’s KCBC. Calypso, Huell Melon and
area would also have cask in their armoury, such as
Citra were added to the kettle followed by a dry hop of
Beavertown, which opened one week after Hackney flung
Calypso, Huell Melon, Citra and Mosac.
open its doors. It wasn’t just Beavertown and Hackney, either. At least 18 breweries started business in the
22
February 2018
The company then brought back its popular peach and basil sour in the form of Millions of Peaches, a 4.0%
Brewers Journal
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Team Hackney Brewery: Complete with canines Gruff, Bruce and Roddy. London, December, 2018.
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number that left bars and bottle shops as soon as it was
expertise of industry pros such as renowned coffee expert
delivered. Elsewhere in 2018, the brewery worked with
Freda Yuan.
Finback and Barrier Brewing, both from New York, on IPAs and fruited stouts.
“She guided me through the growing process of the trees and harvesting of the fruit, to the three types of
However, it was Underground, a Passion Fruit Sour
processing. Natural processed coffee, where they leave
produced in collaboration with Ozone Coffee that really
it out in the sun to ferment and dry, washed where they
challenged drinkers’ tastebuds and tasked the brewery
crush the fruit and wash off the fruit flesh before drying
with the idea of how far they could push coffee as an
and Honeyed which is not as vigorously washed,” he says.
ingredient in beer.
“Each containing different flavour profiles form the same
"In the hunt for flavours and quality in every aspect of the brewery, we wanted to dive into the deep dark water
seeds.” With knowledge of what coffee is and having seen
of our morning ritual and see how far we can go. Coffee
what is on offer. the next phase was working out what
is the fuel of the brewery,” says Swain. “Both the beer and
they can do at the brewery. Swain, and head brewer
coffee industries have progressed further into the science
Darren Walker imbibed a variety of different coffee beers
and understanding of the raw ingredients. Methods of
at last year’s popular Uppers and Downers event in
production have advanced to present the subtle and
London.
nuanced flavours they hold. It seemed a bit crass to just throw some finely roasted coffee into a dark stout.” With that mission statement in mind, the brewery immersed itself in various events, festivals and the
24
February 2018
Swain says: “From stouts to kvass, everything was on show here from the UK’s finest breweries. If anywhere would layout the possibilities of what could be done, it would be here! This was where we finally pieced together
Brewers Journal
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brewery
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some ideas of how we could use coffee as a flavour
poured in with some hot water, then pushed it into the
alongside other ingredients.”
fermenter. It took three full loads to get all the fresh brew
So in stepped the gang at Ozone. The independent company’s roaster is in the basement and stepping in
into the beer, Swain recalls. The result is a truly unique beer, and one well worth
through the door you are met with waves of fresh roasted
tracking down. Though pretty hard to come by, it will be
and ground coffee aromas. Hackney Brewery met with
worth the effort as it’s a beer that’s unlikely to see the light
the team and were presented with an array of what they
of day again anytime soon.
can do with their coffee creations. A cold brew coffee
“2018 was a year of change for us. For the first time, it
and tonic and coffee served with passion fruit and honey
was possible, and made sense to experiment more and
infused milk were the highlights.
work with other breweries, which was a real privilege,”
Then came the lightbulb moment, something that tied
Swain says. “We spent 2017 getting the grips with the
together Passion Fruit, Coffee and Sour. Using the sour
new setup but with that achieved, we were able to push
base from the aforementioned ‘Millions Of Peaches’, the
ourselves more.”
brewery added 100Kg of passion fruit and then we were faced with the coffee… Ozone came to the brewery armed with a grinder and
And that will continue this year, with at least 12 specials planned for release over 2019. Those beers, coupled with an established core, will enable the brewery
100Kg of fresh roasted coffee and set to work prepping
to continue growing in its segment, because as Hills
the grounds. A newly acquired hopinator was repurposed
explains, “we’re not looking for world domination”.
as a large coffee percolator. The central post was lined with multiple layers of filter paper, the fresh grinds were
brewersjournal.info
“With the slice of the pie that we operate within, it’s a case of the quality of the outlets. And with that, there’s a
February 2018
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finite amount,” says Swain. “At our core, we are very local. We don’t sell into big national operators, so it’s a case of focusing on existing and new relationships to grow.”
Growing as a team
B rewery
brewer is in that job for life.” He adds: “Who knows where we’re all going? But if we can hold on to these people, and look after them, for as long as possible, then that’s good news for everyone.” Such a diplomatic, though optimistic, approach is one the duo have taken in 2019. "We’ve achieved our three year plan, so now we can
F
or Hills and Swain, growing external relationships is
stop and think,” Swain explains. “We need to work out
only part of the picture. They are particularly proud
what’s going on with the future. But for the moment, we
of the working culture that exists at Hackney, and
can be introspective, focus on dialling-in more recipes,
that’s one of self-improvement. Every brewer is working towards their IBD diploma as part of their employment, a move that benefits both brewer and business. “We always want to improve, we just want to get better,” says Hills. “If you’re part of the Hackney team, your
specifications, and to make more of the beer we want. We want improved quality and consistency in every beer we make.” Hills adds: “We just want to get better and better, growing organically and on own terms. “We are not trying to take over the world. We just want
opinion and your voice is as important as anyone else’s.
to make excellent beer, underpinned with the right ethics,
We attract great people but we also know that not every
the right attitude and the right culture.” u
26
February 2018
Brewers Journal
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27.09.2018 11:16:16
BLEFA STAND 25 WE LOOK FORWARD TO YOUR VISIT!
floor i ng
s e c to r
Build on steady foundations Regardless of the size or age of your brewery the same flooring principal applies to every business. And that’s the flooring you specify will provide the foundations on which the rest of your brewery is built. by tIM sHEAHAN
W
hatever their size or age, the same first flooring principal applies to every brewery. Flooring really does provide the foundation
on which brewing success is built,” explains David Priest, sales manager at Kemtile. “It’s often so much easier – and more cost effective – to install floors and drains when the premises or brewery is empty.” Priest says that when you’re considering a new brewery floor, make sure all aspects of the job are
W
considered and tackled at the outset and at the same
e all know, or maybe even own, a brewery where one aspect of the
time. This includes civils work (usually drainage connections)
physical build isn’t up to the same
and surface drainage - is it big enough to cope with
levels the rest of the operation is.
spillages and clean down?
There’s a lot of reasons for this.
He adds: “For most of our brewery customers the
Breweries grow, often faster than those running it could
flooring and drainage specification is often dictated by
have even hoped for. So planned improvements fall by
where the drainage can be connected - in manholes -
the wayside because you're too busy actually producing,
and even by their lease agreement.
packaging and shipping the beer you set out to make. Or maybe the funds outlaid during fit out, or expansion, couldn’t stretch all the way from A-Z of that wishlist. One aspect of a brewery’s setup that is often the very bane of its existence is substandard flooring. Sure, an aesthetically-pleasing, top-end install isn’t without its cost, but some breweries toil in an environment where the flooring and drainage has already set them back a step. With that in mind, when you’re in a position to fit out
This usually stipulates that premises must be left exactly as they were upon arrival. “Most breweries start off with a flat concrete floor, which in itself is far from ideal. Concrete is porous and has no chemical resistance to the sugars in the beer and the caustic solutions used for cleaning, these erode the cement and could undermine the drainage. “Flat floors suffer the worst as liquids end up pooling on the floor. This this is bad for chemical attack, slips and hygiene. Concrete also wears quickly - especially if it’s
your brewery facility, whether it be on day one or as part
being attacked by chemicals. So, it’s essential to invest
of an expansion, there’s a number of points to keep in
in hygienic flooring and drainage, something that will
mind.
protect that very important concrete floor.”
Firm footing
Another area to look, perhaps unsurprisingly, is reducing potential slips and falls. According to HSE
brewersjournal.info
February 2018
29
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floor i ng
and its subsequent hygiene, health and safety issues including micro-bacterial growth. We recommend that
Resincoat offer polyurethane and epoxy coatings Polyurethane and Epoxy coatings, offered by Resincoat, regularly find applications in hospitals and highend eating establishments. Its MRSA (superbug) resistant range of coatings have found applications in NHS hospitals but are now finding their way into food preparation and brewing establishments where hygiene control is key and where chemical resistant flooring is essential. The company says: “Our coatings have been developed so that they are very easy to apply and give our customers 100% quality satisfaction. To this end our products are not ‘cut’ with cheap diluents which reduce the film strength. We deal with 100% resin systems which competitors claim to offer but in reality, do not. Our success is based upon the quality of our easily applied products and the know-how of our sales team who have decades of experience in production and manufacture of resins.”
hot liquids and chemicals are discharged directly into the drainage system rather than run over the floor finish.”
Desirable drainage
D
rainage and flooring go hand-in-hand, so it’s important to take a holistic approach to drainage specification in a bid to optimise your brewery’s
hygiene. Drainage has a major impact on the hygienic performance of all food and drink processing facilities including breweries, explains Andy Buchan, divisional managing director of ACO Building Drainage. He explains: “In food and drink factories, 70 per cent of positive listeria screens are found in the drainage. The impact on a business and on public health can be significant. In 2017, the world’s largest listeria outbreak, which killed 216 people, was traced back to a food factory. “Clearly, drainage has an important role to play when it comes to hygiene and ultimately public safety. Drainage cannot, however, be considered in isolation. “As the European Hygienic Engineering and Design Group (EHEDG) states, it is essential that drainage, cleaning processes and flooring are considered holistically as they all directly impact upon the performance of each other. Drainage needs to be fit for purpose, hygienically designed and importantly should be designed to be cleanable.”
statistics, slips, trips and falls continue to be a major
According to Buchan, drainage systems should be
cause of injuries in the workplace – resulting in a huge
designed in accordance with the best practice design
rise in personal injury claims over recent years.
principles of EHEDG and should apply the standards
“The correct drainage and floor covering will avoid liquids ponding on the floor and provide appropriate slipresistance to help to reduce such accidents. We always
reserved for food contact surfaces EN1672 and EN ISO 14159. Specifically, channels should have completely
ensure that for surfaces that are prone to spillages,
drainable sumps and a minimal slope of 1% longitudinal
flooring slip-resistance is higher than on dry areas,” says
and cross all areas; there should be no lap joints or
Priest.
welded butt joints which can harbour bacteria, all corners
Meeting the highest hygiene standards is also
should be rounded with minimum radii of 3mm, welds
imperative when looking at new brewery flooring. As with
should be located on flat areas and not corners, and steel
all food and drink processing facilities, brewers must
drainage should be fully pickle passivated.
adhere to optimum hygiene standards. This means that brewery floors must be food grade or
“The use of hygienically designed drainage has a major impact on cleanliness - what we call ‘cleanability’.
food safe and able to withstand the high temperatures
For example, if drainage channels do not feature curved
and harsh chemicals used during the everyday cleaning
corners with minimum radii of 3mm, it is impossible for
process.
cleaning brushes to reach every part of the drainage
Priest adds: “Brewery floors must also have excellent
channel’s surface and for corners to be cleaned,” he says.
drainage. We usually recommend long floor gulley drains
Buchan adds: “The impact of hygienic design on
that are installed along the centre with the floor finish laid
cleanability was proven by a recent research study
to ‘falls’. This helps prevent the puddling of waste liquids
undertaken by the internationally renowned research
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February 2018
Brewers Journal
floor i ng
Case study: BRIXTON BREWERY Brixton Brewery specified hygienic flooring as standard when it fit out its new brewing facility last year. Brixton Brewery tasked Kemtile with the design and installation of a new hygienic flooring system when it expanded into a second, larger, facility during 2018. Kemtile specified a Kagetec BS system installing 600m2 of 18mm thick Argelith MV Tech ceramic hexagonal floor tiles. Ultrasonically vibrated into position, this innovative technique eliminates air voids underneath and compacts the bedding screed to provide an extremely even, robust, aesthetic and hygienic floor surface. The company complemented Kagetec BS with Wiedemann-Technik heavy duty stainlesssteel drainage gullies and stainless-steel kerbs – further strengthening the flooring system as well as proving greater impact resistance. Jez Galaun, co-founder of Brixton Brewery, explained that opening a second, larger premises was at the heart of its ambitious
brewersjournal.info
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expansion plans. "We’d outgrown our original brewery and our new site has enabled us to significantly increase our capacity whilst gaining even greater control over the brewing process. Needless to say, it was essential that our strategic expansion was undertaken with the support of specialist trusted partners. “We were impressed by Kemtile’s track record with other UK breweries, so it was an obvious choice when it came to our new flooring and drainage. “We’d already visited a number of Kemtile’s very satisfied brewery customers and we loved what we saw and heard. We wanted the same at our new site to support our future growth and evolution.” Kemtile’s Richard Kay, explains: “In recent years we’ve earned ourselves an enviable reputation amongst the nation’s brewers and I’m very happy to say that we’re increasingly becoming the ‘go-to’ partner when it comes to brewery flooring design and installation. We were delighted to support Brixton Brewery at such an exciting time in its strategic expansion.”
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institute, Fraunhofer IVV Dresden. “Commissioned by ACO, this independent study was designed to fully assess the impact of hygienic design on drainage performance. We wanted to know how
products and equipment hygienically designed, and is your drainage designed to make cleaning quick, easy and effective? As part of your HACCP process, your protocol should
the application of hygienic design impacted upon the
state what needs to be cleaned, how frequently it will
cleanability of drainage channels and as a consequence,
be cleaned, how it will be conducted and how you will
hygiene and cleaning costs.
measure cleanliness.
“The research compared the performance of the
According to Buchan, what is also important is that the
ACO HygieneFirst channel – which incorporates the best
cleaning equipment you use at your brewery should also
practice design principles of EHEDG, EN1672 and EN
be hygienically designed.
ISO 14159 - with another channel whose design is typical
In doing so, this will help minimise the risk of bacterial
of that currently used by the food, drinks and brewing
contamination and ensure compliance with the relevant
industry.
legislation.
“It found that hygienically engineered and designed
He explains: “Ensure your drainage is designed to
drainage channels can be effectively and completely
make cleaning quick, easy and effective. By doing so,you
cleaned in less than 10 minutes whereas non-hygienic
can ensure cleaning will be completed, not ignored,
channel still has 2 per cent residual soiling after an
cleaning time and operational costs will be reduced, and
extended rinsing time of up to three hours.”
risks to hygiene will be reduced." Buchan concludes by pointing out that a well-
Drainage & cleaning protocol
designed drainage system gives your brewery solid foundations to build upon.
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help to ensure that cleaning operatives are not tempted
that your brewery’s cleaning protocol and
to adopt poor cleaning practices such as power-washing
its drainage are compatible. Ask yourself,
– an excellent way to spread the bacteria living in your
how robust is your cleaning protocol; are your cleaning
32
"If your drainage system is easy to clean, it will also
hen it comes to cleanability, it is essential
February 2018
drainage system around your brewing facility,” he adds. u
Brewers Journal
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i n s i g ht
cann i ng
The canning proposition Alloa, Scotland-based Williams Bros wanted a canning line to handle the packaging of its canned beers, as well as that of other breweries, so they turned to Enterprise Tondelli, which supplied a system capable of filling vessels from 330ml up to 500ml.
touches the product reducing fobbing. The cans are static with no lift cylinders and the movement of the valve is only minimal with very few moving parts due to flow meters being used. A central filling bowl with a CIP spray ball and the automatic multiple step CIP ensures better hygiene and also lower product wastage at the end of production. Low TIPO was also important. Part of the project was to increase automation so that
by tIM sHEAHAN
personnel can be better utilised therefore a high level combined bottle and can depalletiser from Enterprise
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installed. This design allows both bottles and cans to
illiams Bros Brewing Co is based
be automatically depalletised and sent to the can filler
in Alloa, Clackmannanshire.
or existing glass filler via a pad type lowerator from
Producing a eclectic range of
Eurosistemi Srl.
modern beers for the international market, the business is also
To rationalise water consumption ionised air cleaning of the cans is used with a twin lane gravity can rinser
steeped in Scottish tradition and remains the last
suitable for both 330 ml, 440ml and 500 ml cans too. To
bastion of brewing in a town, that was once regarded as
complete the product integrity checks an X Ray level
'Scotland's Beer Capital'.
inspector rejecter was fitted by Enterprise.
As an independent brewery, and also a business that
The complete conveyor circuit and controls was
acts as a central hub for the bottling and packaging, its
designed and supplied by Enterprise with the facility
commercial brews started out at a 5-barrel brewery in
to add additional phased modules to increase the
Taynult near Oban on the West Coast.
throughput and also to add further process and
Here, they were able to brew just enough to supply cask conditioned Fraoch to five premises, including the Clachaig in Glencoe, which to this day remains its most loyal and enduring customer.
packaging plant as the demand continues to increase for canned product. Scott Williams, co-founder of Williams Bros, explained: “It has taken us some time to add this new facility to our
As the brewery has grown and developed, so has
plant as we decided to dramatically upgrade the line
the type of beers it offers customers. And the way those
environment by adding a completely new building to
beers reach the eager drinker.
house the line.
With that in mind, the brewery made the decision to
“This new building makes for a fantastic area for the
invest in a canning facility and they turned to Enterprise
line with purpose built drains, specialist flooring, wall
Tondelli, which supplied a can filler and seamer
finishes and lighting.
manufactured by Matrix srl in Parma, Italy. This machine uses electro-pneumatically controlled
“This is the fourth project we have worked with Enterprise and we are very pleased with the final result.
valves for control of the CO2 purging, snifting etc all of
We have really appreciated the support given by
which can be controlled and preset from the operator
Enterprise in the planning and execution of the plant.”
panel and for the differing fill characteristics of the various beer types. Additionally each filling valve has a flow meter so that beer volumes are measured and the vent tube no longer
34
February 2018
Craig Wilson, managing director at Enterprise Tondelli UK added: “It has been a real pleasure working with Williams Bros. and compliment them on the building provided and look forwards to continuing collaboration.” u
Brewers Journal
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By
T he
H orns
m e e t
th e
b r e w e r
Taking beer head on By The Horns were one of the so-called second wave of breweries to open in London when Alex Bull and Chris Mills started brewing professionally back in 2011. In the years since, the Wandsworth brewery has produced more than 250 different beers, secured prestigious listings and opened a taproom that’s a local community hub. And with new kit bedded-in, they’re just getting started.
Pale Ale for the first time, you truly realise how crap the lager you were dealing with at university was,” laughs Alex Bull, co-founder of London’s By The Horns Brewing Co. Friends through university, Bull and Mills studied different degrees during their time at Bath but both followed the path to North America following their studies. While Bull departed for North California to teach football, Mills’ travels would take him to famed skiing destination Whistler, north of Vancouver. While the modern UK beer scene was very much in its infancy back in 2008, Bull was having his beer epiphany thanks to Sierra Nevada’s Pale Ale. One of hundreds, thousands and more, that said beer has lit a fire under.
by Tim sheahan
“Being so close to Chico meant great beer from the brewery was everywhere. It really made me look at things
W
in a different way,” says Bull. “It put things in perspective.”
exciting existence just around the corner. You might also
you had then taken those beers for granted and easy
want to be your own boss, managing your own time. Most
access to the beers we now loved was not so easy!” says
of us do, after all.
Bull.
e’ve all been there. You’re sat
While Bull was imbibing fresh Pale Ale, Mills was going
around, or maybe standing. Who
on his beer journey in British Columbia. Establishments
knows. But you’re daydreaming
such as the Whistler Brewhouse would broaden his
about doing something different
palate, beers Bull would also enjoy after making his own
for a living, certain that the grass
trip to Whistler and the North West the year following.
is greener on the other side and there’s a much more
“The problem is, when you return home, you realised
So when Alex Bull and Chris Mills, university friends
Thankfully for them, some supermarkets were
whose collective eyes had been broadened by travel and
starting to bring over some US staples, while CAMRA
working abroad, started new jobs back in London nearly
beer festivals helped scratch that particular itch. Just not
10 years ago, it didn’t take long for the duo to get itchy
enough, evidently.
feet and long for something new. And didn’t help their
“We drank some great beer at those festivals. But we
cause that they had also been bitten by the beer bug, too.
drank some bad beer, too,” says Bull. “So after a couple
At that point, there was no going back.
of pints, you’re full of confidence you can do things better
“It’s only when you are drinking fresh Sierra Nevada
brewersjournal.info
yourself. Obviously.”
February 2018
37
m e e t
th e
b r e w e r
By
T he
A homebrew kit was ordered, as were various books to
H orns
with Heineken and Amstel sticks adorning their exterior.
complement their learning. These volumes were read and
Kit that was sent to Oban Ales which fabricated the tanks
absorbed in swift fashion so other titles followed in what
to their specification. Though those tanks have long since
Bull recalls an important time of learning for the duo.
been sold, Bull is certain those well-known logos are still
It should come as no surprise that clones of Sierra Nevada’s Pale Ale were the brewers’ foray into the world
present under the cladding their retrofitted. “We started out with a 5.5 bbl kit, brewing once or
of beer production. Beers that went down well, especially
twice a week. Beers like Stiff Upper Lip we still brew now,
at the house parties hosted as their shared house. Nearly
but others like an American-style wheat beer have fallen
a year passed and by the middle of 2010, Mills and Bull
by the wayside,” he says. “Maybe those types of hazy
spotted an opportunity and sensed the timing was right
beers, especially on cask, weren’t right for the time. The
to take it.
amount of times that beer would be returned because of
“We would attend all of these festivals but be surprised at how comparatively few breweries actually operated out
its appearance was unreal.” Bull was able to convince his employers to change
of London,” says Bull. “We both loved the idea of doing
his hours to part-time, while Mills continued in full-time
something for ourselves so at that point, the seeds for
employment. While Bull would carry out day-to-day
sown for us to pursue our own brewery.”
duties at the brewery, Mills would head there after work
In the world of work. Mills was handling offshore purchasing for a marketing business, while Bull was on
before brewing, cleaning and planning into the evening. He says: “We were living in a shared house at the time
a graduate scheme at an oil company. They used their
so while it was hard work, it was both fun and exciting,
spare time to locate a site that could enable the would-be
too. We had a passion to get our beers on hand pumps
brewers to start a small brewery that could be run as both
in pubs we love and bottles in the off licences. That vision
a hobby, and a part-time profession.
drives you during those cold late nights."
This site would end up being in Summerstown in
Recipes such as the 5.1% Lambeth Porter would go
SW17, a little-known area between Wimbledon, Tooting
on to win awards across the UK and the brewery’s beers
and Clapham. Investment from the duo, friends and
would find a home on the guest taps of the prestigious
family would secure the site and also the necessary kit
pubs Bull and Mills had hoped.
required to get going. Tanks that were bought from Holland arrived complete
38
February 2018
“We knew most of the independent real ale pubs across London because we drank in them,” says Bull.
Brewers Journal
By
“So we’d approach places we respected such as The Bricklayers Arms in Putney and The Bree Louise in
T he
H orns
m e e t
th e
b r e w e r
We've learnt a a lot,” says Bull. He explains: “Learning is so important at a brewery.
Euston, anywhere that was well regarded and sold guest
If you don't learn then you don't grow. After the first two
beers.”
years we had brewed 80 beers. We’re now up to 250. It’s
Such beers ended up on rotation at 10 or so pubs so extra capacity was added early on, all at a time where Bull and Mills were endeavouring to teach themselves everything and anything about running the brewery. He recalls: “I feel like we were a part of the second
a leaning process and a valuable one. But the beers have never been better." Bull has never been happier with the brewery’s beers and processes. A core can and keg range comprises beers such as Hopadelic Session IPA, Cosmic Warrior
wave of London breweries. Before us you had
Pale Ale and a 4.0% Lager. While core cask bees include
Sambrook’s, Redemption, Windsor & Eton and The Kernel.
Giggle Mug Amber Bitter, Lambeth Walk and Stiff Upper
Then it was us and outfits such as ELB, Moncada and
Lip. These are complemented by seasonal and special
Hackney Brewery.
numbers such as Dead Man’s Chest Oyster Oatmeal Rum
“We look back at how we've developed, the
Stout, a Brut IPA called Spark Dust, Dusk till Dawn Old
investment in kit such conditioning tanks back in 2013 and
Amber Ale and Chateau Rouge, a wine barrel-aged Red
there was no manual for small breweries making beers
Farmhouse Saison.
like we wanted. The only advice available was on big
The company’s equipment setup is at its most modern,
scale for bigger breweries. It was challenging, but it was
too. A recent investment in a Framax canning line has
an opportunity, too.”
given the brewery the ability to fill 250ml, 330ml, 440ml
So when it came to moving into kegged beers, By The Horns sat down and assessed their options. This would
and 500ml vessels at upwards of 1,000 cans per hour. “I did my research and the gravity fill technology
result in the decision to invest in conditioning tanks, run
featured in a lot of American systems seemed ok,
it through a carbonation stone, drop bright in the tank
and clearly do well for many breweries, but I wasn't
before carbonating and keg on site.
convinced,” says Bull. “Working with Framax, they
“We like to do everything on site because it allows
supplied us a counter pressure filler with the same
us to control everything, manage our expectations, and
technology in their rotary lines. It was expensive but in
teach ourselves the best process. I'm proud of how
terms of quality and what we perceive was right for us it
quality procedures continue to improve over the years.
made sense.”
brewersjournal.info
February 2018
39
m e e t
th e
b r e w e r
By
T he
It’s no coincidence that investment in in-house canning
H orns
brewery’s canned output grow even further. So much
has timed perfectly with a rebrand that adorns marketing
so, that the arrival of two new 4,000l vessels is imminent
material and vessels such as cans.
and for the first time, canned produce will become the
“We were improving as a brewery, improving as a team
majority package for By The Horns.
so we felt it was time to pause and refresh. We wanted to
Bull explains: “At the moment we are 65% cask,
take the brewery forward and impactful, strong branding
20% keg and 15% can. By the end of this year, that will
is key to that,” he says. “A lot had changed in the years we
swing to 80% can. We never wanted to commit to major
had been brewing so a rebrand was timely."
contracts without the ability to cater for them. But the new
Bull and Mills were impressed with the work Nebojsa Matkovic put into a mock up brewery, work designed to showcase his wares to potential brewery clients. Those designs adorn the blank canvas labels are then applied to, creating a complex and strong juxtaposition of artwork.
capacity and with canning technology in-house, we can confidently fulfil these obligations.” Not bad progress for a team that fell into the world of quality modern beer. “We want to push on, make new beers and never lose
Working on the brewery’s canned output has been
sight of that desire to experiment,” says Bull. “If we can do
part of the bigger picture, but a new contract with online
that, improve all the time, grow this time and brew beers
drinks membership business Flavourly will see the
people enjoy then it’s job done.” u
40
February 2018
Brewers Journal
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product i on
s e c to r
The Digital Advantage
Investment in software is a key way to take your brewery to the next level. Through management, compliance and quality control software you can keep track of your production, processes and analyse what approach works best for you and your team.
He adds: “This helps them further understand their customers to help communicate with greater relevance. The biggest impact this can have is keeping their customers engaged with their brand. “Our clients are also looking to us to create dashboards with the ability to really interrogate their data, to help them, relatively easily, spot crucial trends in their data to help them act on key changes in purchase trends, quicker. People also appreciate proactivity. Giving them
by Tim sHEAHAN
crucial information that they were previously unaware of.” One offering Performalytics has for breweries is a sales
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analytics platform where by, via an array of dashboards
hile it may not always seem it,
accessed online, they can monitor their latest business
investing hard-earned cash in your
performance and interrogate their sales trends, both
brewery need not be focused
consumer and trade, instantaneously.
exclusively on the procurement of heavy capital equipment.
“These dashboards cover performance from top line performance to specific customer, product and
There is a wealth of software out there designed to
geographical trends, enabling your key decision makers
help boost productivity, improve efficiency and open-up
to make the more informed decisions, sooner,” explains
new markets for your beer.
Dickens.
“People are increasingly looking for customer
He says: “Our products are focussed to support sales,
segmentation,” explains James Dickens, managing
marketing, finance and then the senior management
director of Performalytics. “This is when we put
team in making the most informed day to day decisions
their customers into different categories based on a
possible. In order to be able to provide this service to
combination of their historical purchase trends along
brewers of all sizes, we have created a tired pricing
with lifestyle data to understand more about what their
structure so that those who need it most, don’t miss out.”
customers look like.”
brewersjournal.info
Dickens also acknowledges that investments into
February 2018
43
s e c to r
product i on
Compliance and auditing
W
hile data analytics play a key role in helping boost sales and identifying your customers buying trends, software can also help
increase and improve other parts of your brewery, such as compliance. BrewMan, from Premier Systems, features a production module that has been designed to aid SALSA accreditation. The brewery management software, which has been installed at more than 200 breweries, has helped many of these achieve such accreditation. The SALSA plus Beer Audit has been developed to offer small and micro-sized brewers a standard tailored to their particular operation and to allow approved members to approach buyers with their craft ales and beers with reinforced confidence. Additional criteria contained in the SALSA plus Beer Standard were developed to encourage excellence in the brewing & bottling industry, raise the profile of processors within the brewing industry, provide a forum for exchange of ideas, and give clear guidelines for approval to brewers and bottlers “In recent years it has become more important for breweries to prove their compliance to rigorous food safety standards, particularly when selling to supermarket chains,” the company said. “There are a number of accreditations that are applicable to breweries, including HACCP (Hazard analysis and critical control points) and SALSA (Safe and Local Supplier Approval) and the SALSA plus Beer Audit.” According to Premier Systems, the software’s production module addresses requirements to help brewers achieve accreditation. These include cleaning:
software and systems can have as a dramatic impact on
BrewMan monitors the usage of brewing vessels and
business performance as investment in bricks and mortar
tanks and, once a vessel has been emptied, flags the
and heavy-duty equipment.
vessel as requiring a clean.
“One of the core benefits of this type of investment
Brewers can then record the single or multi-stage
can have a massive impact on the day to day operations
clean that they have performed to release the vessel
of non-brewing areas of the business. In turn, this
back to production. The cleaning processes themselves
investment can save the business £000’s, offering strong
are defined within the system, thus giving you your
return on the investment,” says Dickens.
procedures.
He adds: “All small/medium sized businesses
When it comes to the control of raw materials,
experience pressures on resource, these types of
BrewMan keeps records of all of your brewery’s raw
investment can reduce admin levels, enabling them to
material stock. The stock control records each batch of
spend more time on the day job that helps drive business
materials received by date and batch number.
revenues. This is why we have created a multi-tiered pricing structure. "Whilst we offer bespoke analytics solution to the
The system then manages stock and suggest the raw materials that should be used in the brewing process on a first-in, first-out basis, ensuring that your stock is
larger brewers, we have also invested in creating a
rotated correctly. Elsewhere, the software produces a
solution that enables smaller brewers to benefit these
brew control sheet for every batch you brew and within
services as well. After all, the benefits of these services
the brew sheet you may define any quality control checks
can have a far more dramatic impact on the smaller
that are required. u
businesses.”
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February 2018
Brewers Journal
product i on
s e c to r
Five ways you can break into more outlets with better quality controls, by Vision33
S
ecuring a sale with a new distributor or retailer,
3. Tangible targets
or getting that coveted tap spot takes a lot of hard work - right? Here, Vision33, which supplies
Consistency is king, especially for retailers. Illustrating
brewery management software OrchestratedBeer in the
how your brewery sets targets and reports against them
UK, aims to help you understand how the seemingly
for each process of making your beer is key. It’s your
mundane task of capturing quality and batch data on
guarantee that the product you’re shipping will taste the
your brews can give you an edge when convincing a new
same, time and time again.
customer to take on your beer and give you that opening.
What are you already tracking to manage consistency? In making wort, you typically have four cycles: mash,
1. Compliance can be convincing
lauter, kettle, and whirlpool. During each of these stages you are likely to record gravity, pH, times, temps,
Walking a customer through your entire health and safety
volumes, start of boil, salt, yeast information to pitch, and
procedures might send them to sleep and may not
more. When you turn the wort into green or rough beer
close the deal. But proving how obsessed you are with
(fermentation), you’re likely already recording the periodic
perfecting that brew just might.
measurements in the tank. Elements such as: °P, pH, temp
Key information about the latest batch of the brew you are pitching is necessary. Knowing how you monitored the gravity, times, temps and yeast information – or even the batches of hops and
when chilled, yeast info, original gravity, quality, and taste are recorded even if the lab has approved it. Attentionally, you could be measuring gases, volumes, start/end times, quality checks, weight, and density.
grains that went into your brew and the suppliers they came from is powerful stuff. Demonstrating that you can easily track this info gives
4. Real time reporting
confidence that you could handle a product recall with ease and are in control of the supply chain - all pretty
Proving that you’re monitoring this data and that you’re
convincing stuff, especially when dealing with a big
equipped to present the information when requested,
retailer.
shows that even the youngest brewery can be compliant with the demands that chains and ‘big retail’ require from
2. Better beer recalls
their suppliers.
Beer recalls; they’re one of those things that brewers
make adjustments to either lower cost or increase
hope never to happen to them.
efficiency. When all data is then reported against the
The trick is to watch your processes over time and
Unfortunately, they are something brewers will likely
targets you have set for each brand or brew, you can then
be forced to deal with at some point. So, it’s important
track variances by batch to ensure you’re shipping the
for breweries to prove they can stay ahead of the recall
most consistent brews to your most stringent retailers.
game - traceability and quality control are both key ways to prevent and manage beer recalls.
5. Single source of data
Recalls can be often be caused by safety issues. For example; bottle defects have been a common theme
You have the processes in place. You’re capturing the
in recent years, with two large breweries issuing major
data and pulling together reports. But you’re probably
voluntary recalls due to concerns around glass shards.
using Excel and/or bits of paper to do it right? Using
Providing traceability for packaged beer down to a batch
a brewery management system which is designed to
number as part of your sales cycle allows customers
capture and report on batch and quality control data can
to feel confident in your ability to easily recall affected
be a real time saver, not to mention a game changer.
products.
brewersjournal.info
February 2018
45
c ro s s i n g
co nti n e nt s
M uskoka
B rewery
Patience is a virtue In an age of frenetic beer release schedules, launching the first addition to your core range in more than four years is something of a lesser seen approach to business. But playing the long game in only releasing a new beer when it’s been dialled-in, and when the time is right, is the Muskoka Brewery way. And the beer is all the better for it. by Tim Sheahan
T
Government of Ontario in collaboration with the Ontario Craft Brewers (OCB), proposed changes to the Small Beer Manufacturer’s Tax credit, which when passed, will positively impact Ontario craft breweries, empowering them to grow their operations, create more jobs and expand to new markets – both domestically and internationally. For Muskoka Brewery, the improved tax credit, as well as a substantial grant awarded by the Ministry of Economic Development, presented the opportunity to invest in its growth and expansion. “The renewed tax credit wasn’t just good for Muskoka Brewery, it’s good for Ontario craft beer. As a pioneer in the industry, we know there are significant hurdles to
odd Lewin, president of Ontario, Canada's
reach profitability,” says Lewin. “This improved tax credit
Muskoka Brewery, doesn’t do things by
will remove a major barrier to growth and help small
halves. But when you see what you’re doing
breweries get over significant hurdles.”
is working, and working well, then why would you look to do things otherwise?
Year-on-year growth, a team that’s swelled from 30 to
130 in seven years, and an established core range of beer are all pointers that signify success. But as Lewin enters
With this longer runway to grow and succeed, the company has invested $5 million in the brewery’s operations, the largest capital expansion in its near 22year history. These funds were earmarked to help the business
the 8th year of his tenure at the Bracebridge brewery,
increase the brewery’s capacity and continuously
he’s as eager as ever for Muskoka to make its mark on
improve the quality of its beer through new, cutting-edge
the Canadian brewing landscape. And he knows that the
technology and equipment.
team behind the Muskoka name is integral, no essential, to that success. “Call it a cliché, but we work hard and we play hard,” explains Lewin. He’s happy to roll out such effective platitudes
It also supports an expanded and enhanced retail store and taproom experience to solidify Muskoka as a destination brewery for locals, cottagers, day-trippers and tourists. The multi-million dollar spend allowed the brewery
because as the brewery shuts for Christmas, the team has
to invest in a new canning line, catering for the shift from
planned its workload so inventory levels are as expected
bottling to canning its produce. Such an investment was
and his colleagues can enjoy some well-earned time off.
a no-brainer when you crunch the figures. Five years
“I’m a firm believer that you benefit from the culture
ago, 50% of Muskoka’s beers were bottled and 50% were
you help create. And when you’re surrounded by such
canned. Now that’s 90/10 in favour of cans, so a new
hard-working, talented individuals, immersing yourself in
machine, supplied by Krones, was a necessity.
a positive, productive environment like we have here is very easy indeed,” he says. Lewin is modest, yet determined. Muskoka enters 2019 off the back of productive, successful 12 months both for the business, and the beers that business makes. Since 2016, the brewery has worked in partnership
Two older machines could can at a rate of 30cpm and 60cpm respectively, but the Krones model offers output speeds up to 240cpm. A true step change. “We are very happy with it,” says Lewin. “We conducted a great deal of research on the options available to us, but we wanted to make a statement and opt for a system
with the Ontario Craft Brewers Association to advocate for
that would do well for Muskoka. Lots of breweries are
changes to the Small Beer Manufacturer’s Tax Credit and
putting a pause on such investments, but we wanted to
help craft breweries, like itself, grow.
move on, put our foot back out there and show people
With the introduction of last year’s budget, the
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February 2018
we believe in the beer we are making, and we believe in
Brewers Journal
c ro s s i n g
co nti n e nt s
M uskoka
B rewery
this business” The investment in machinery is a big step for any brewery, especially when it’s carried out during the hectic summer months. In Lewin’s own words, summer was a “tough” time to undertake such a move, and it inevitably disrupted the business. But the long-term benefits are far greater as a result. “It was a big moment for Muskoka Brewery, small businesses and for Ontario beer drinkers. It means better beer, more choice and that Canadians’s favourite breweries will be able to stick around,” says Lewin. “As a proudly independent brewery, we feel a tremendous amount of pride that our investment will stay in Ontario and support our local economy and community.” Lewin’s pride in the Ontario community has only grown since joining the business back in 2011. He came on board with a business run by Gary McMullen, who founded Muskoka back in 1996 and Bob MacDonald, the majority partner who joined the Muskoka cause 12 years later in 2008. As vice-president of sales and marketing, Lewin was part of a team that knew it needed to update its approach to business, broaden its sales team and ensure its beer could be enjoyed further across Ontario and Canada as a whole. Lewin, who has spent 13 years within sales and marketing at Molson Coors, knew he could apply his experience to Muskoka and grow the business by grabbing “low-hanging fruit” and build its client and customer base as a result. Growth of close to 25% year-on-year growth has been achieved in the eight years since Lewin joined the business. He’s acutely aware of the team effort involved, especially with the brewery’s founder McMullen departing in early 2017. That move paved the way for Lewin to become the brewery’s president, a role he continues to relish. “The timing of moving to Muskoka was good for me and the business, and we’ve thankfully grown in these recent years,” says Lewin. “But as you continue to grow and scale up, it’s important to acknowledge that delivering that percentage growth each year becomes harder. You just need to concentrate on what you’re doing, and try and do it well." Lewin admits that growth in the last eight years correlated with a period in which 30 or so breweries operated in Ontario. Now that number is closer to 300. But just as the number of breweries has grown so has Muskoka, its team, and its brand. "Our culture and team has allowed us to build, improve and maintain our vision,” he tells us. “It’s hard when you feel like a tight-knit group of 20-30 people, and then over the years, that becomes 130 people. It’s important to make sure that everyone feels welcome, and that they
50
February 2018
Brewers Journal
c ro s s i n g
co nti n e nt s
M uskoka
B rewery
are part of the team.” Muskoka produces its beers on a 70hl brewhouse, focusing on five core brands that comprise 95% of its volume. While Lewin enjoys the experimentation aspect of brewing, he reiterates that the focus from day one has been on developing a “real brand” and ensuring stability and security as a result. With that in mind, its newest beer, Ebb & Flow, recently became the outfit’s first addition to its core range since 2014. Complementing favourites such as Cream Ale, Detour and Mad Tom IPA, the new beer is a low ABV session number. But instead of being a Session Pale, Muskoka has instead chosen to produce a 2.4% Session Sour. According to the brewery, you’ll pick up a light tropical aroma with notes of lime and grapefruit on the nose of this effervescent beer. With a pleasantly tart flavour up front, there’s no need to pucker up “It’s all in the name. ‘Ebb & Flow’ calls out balance that’s achieved in motion. It’s well-suited to occasions when you’re craving a full-flavoured beer, but need to stay the course, whether that’s your weekend chores, heading back to work after a lunchtime pint or catching up with friends over the holidays,” says Lewin. “Sours continue to attract new drinkers to the beer category and with the recent legalization of cannabis, we also see occasions where there is crossover with a low alcohol beer option.” The launch of Ebb & Flow is something of a milestone for Muskoka. Lewin explains that there’s been something of a fragmentation of the market during his time in beer, something that’s only amplified during his years at the Ontario brewery. “Gone are the days that people would adopt a brand and stick with it for life. There’s a promiscuity centered around drinkers wanting to explore new styles, and that’s understandable,” he says. “It’s a change of culture and for us, when we launched beers like Mad Tom IPA out in to the world, it helped us learn about the types of beers drinkers wanted.” Lewin adds: “We were banging on doors that would shut on your face, but we remained focused on building these brands because we had faith in them. We wanted to develop real brands with real equity. And we stuck with that. “You see a lot of breweries chasing short term trends, and I believe that’s an example of short-termism. For us, it’s about having a position and looking to differentiate yourself when it comes to quality and consistency. It’s
nothing else are long gone. It’s ok to be promiscuous now.
your sword to fall on.”
We have a saying that we want to be two of every eight-
For Lewin, quality is all-important. Because if you’re
pack you buy. And with that, our name is a guarantee
not offering a quality, reliable experience then you can’t
of a quality, well-made beer. And yes, you have our
blame the consumer for looking elsewhere.
permission to drink other brewery’s beers too,” he laughs.
“The days of people buying a case of one beer and
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February 2018
Lewin is thrilled to be part of such a hotbed of brewing
Brewers Journal
M uskoka
B rewery
c ro s s i n g
co nti n e nt s
innovation in Ontario, and sees the growth of sour, wild
at Muskoka. What’s been important is that we want to
fermentation beer is a boon for the industry. He’s also
make a difference in the community, through our beer,
thrilled that Muskoka continues to grow with it, especially
employment and the benefits those things bring
after a year of upheaval even if it’s all for the greater good. “We continue to ask ourselves what is the reason we exist,” he states. “We’ve never had a traditional vision here
brewersjournal.info
“I feel that this brewery has shown resolve in its lifetime, and we never take things for granted. We always want to improve, and to do better.” u
February 2018
53
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E sters
&
P henols
s c i e n c e
Wheat Beer, Esters and Phenols: How to influence them to your advantage Weisse beer has undergone somewhat of a resurgence. Beers produced by traditional brewers of the style are popular not just in the traditional southern German heartlands but also worldwide. And there are practical steps a brewer can take to influence the yeast derived Esters and Phenols present in Wheat Beer as well as in other beers, explains Andrew Paterson, technical sales and support for the UK at Lallemand Brewing. by aNDREW pATERSON
W
heat beer is a broad style of top fermenting beer traditional to the regions of Southern Germany, including Bavaria and BadenWürttemberg, as well as parts of
Austria. The terms Weissbier (white beer) or Weizenbier (wheat beer) are used synonymously to denote the style. The first beers brewed and labelled as Weissbier were brewed in the 1500s by the aristocratic Degenberger family, who were awarded the exclusive right to brew the
Schneider brewery in Munich in 1872 the Weisse style
style in the Bavarian forest region, as well as in Bohemia,
might have died out completely [1].
by Duke Wilhelm IV. The brewery itself was established
These days Weisse beer has undergone somewhat of
in the town of Schwarzach and the beers produced were
a resurgence with beers produced by traditional brewers
seen to be the preserve of the gentry [1].
of the style popular not just in the traditional southern
On the subsequent death of the head of the
German heartlands but worldwide. The style, while not
Degenberger family, Baron Hans Sigmund Degenberger,
as frequently reproduced as the now ubiquitous IPA, has
the rights to brew Weissbier passed to Duke Maximilian
also been much imitated by craft brewers across the
I of Bavaria. Seeing the economic potential the Duke
globe
opened several more Weiss breweries including one
Key characteristics
in Munich, now the site of the iconic Hofbräuhaus, and one in Kelheim, which would later become the famous Schneider Weisse brewery [1]. The popularity of the style boomed through the 1700s but the invention of refrigeration and competition from the new bottom fermenting styles (lager) caused sales to decrease to the point of unprofitability. Were it not for the insight of Georg Schneider who opened the original
brewersjournal.info
W
hen we think of Weissbier we think of an almost pearlescent, opaque beer with a large rocky head of foam, usually served in
an oversized glass. Aromas of banana and clove hit the nose, (if the foam doesn’t first) and fruity flavours along
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s c i e n c e
E sters
&
P henols
Left: Iso-amyl acetate, Ester group circled in red. Right: 4-VG, Phenol group circled in green
Decarboxylation of hydroxycinnamic acids to form vinylphenols. In this case, Ferulic acid reacts to form 4-VG.
with a slight tartness and zing due to very high levels
by active enzymatic decarboxylation by yeast strains
of carbonation fill the mouth. Indeed the theatre and
possessing the Phenolic Off Flavour (POF+) phenotype.
performance associated with drinking Weissbier may
The original wild type ancestor of modern brewing yeast
have much to do with its modern day success; you feel
strains probably possessed this trait. However, genetic
like you’ve won a prize every time you go to the bar.
selection pressures of continuous re-pitching has led to
This is the classic punter’s view of Weiss beer, in fact the style is quite broad and can be divided into
most brewing strains losing this ability. While no longer present in most brewing yeasts,
Hefeweizen, (containing yeast) and Kristallweizen (filtered
the characteristic prevailed in many strains used for the
and bright). Hefeweizen is by far the more popular of the
production of Belgian Beers, Saisons and German Wheat
two. These two types can be further broken down into
Beers contributing to part of their distinct character.
Weizenbier (Standard Wheat Beer), Dunkelweizen (Dark
Examples of such strains are Lalbrew Abbaye, Lalbrew
Wheat Beer) and Weizenbock (Wheat Beer brewed in the
Munich Classic, Lalbrew Munich Wheat and Lalbrew
Bock style). Alkoholfrei (free from alcohol) beers are also
Belle Saison.
popular in this category. Origins of key distinguishing characteristics
Controlling Phenol formation
Two of the key distinguishing flavour characteristics of Wheat Beer, Clove and Banana, have their origins in both the raw ingredients used for the grist and in the yeast strain chosen for the fermentation. Chemically the flavours can be broken down into two distinct groups. Banana or Iso-amyl acetate is an Ester and is produced as
A
s outlined above 4-VG is produced by the enzymatic transformation of Ferulic Acid present in Barley and Wheat. Understanding the role of
yeast in the formation of the chemical is one thing but
a by-product of yeast metabolism, while Clove or 4-vinyl-
what are the practical steps a brewer can take to control
guiacol (4-VG) is a phenol and is produced by the action
the level and formation of 4-VG?
of yeast on chemicals originating from Malted Barley and Wheat.
Mashing - Studies have found that Ferulic acid is most often present in a bound (esterified) form in the cell wall and must be liberated by enzymes named Feruloyl
Phenol formation
Esterases in order to be released into solution. These enzymes are most active at a temperature of 45 degrees and a pH of 5.8 [3]. As such, and if mashing equipment
T
he Phenol character present in Wheat Beer is
allows, it is ideal to mash in at a starting temperature of 45
derived from enzyme catalysed reactions with a
degrees prior to proceeding to the sacchrification step.
series of chemicals called hydroxycinnamic acids.
Choice of grist – While overall, Wheat Malt has a
These chemicals are abundant in plant cell walls and
marginally higher level of Ferulic Acid than Barley, studies
have both a structural role as well as contributing to the
have shown that more Ferulic Acid is released from a
plants defence mechanism against pathogenic micro-
pure Barley Malt mash than one consisting entirely of
organisms [2].
Wheat Malt [3]. To further complicate the picture it would
The two most common Phenols present are the
appear that bound Ferulic acid is also released from
previously mentioned 4-VG (Clove), derived from
Wheat Malt worts during fermentation, indicating some
Ferulic acid, as well as the related 4-VP, derived from
level of Feruloyl Esterase activity in POF+ strains [3].
P-Coumaric acid. 4-VP whilst usually present at low
This does not take place in worts produced from
levels has an unpleasant character, usually described
Malted Barley showing specificity for the bound form
as bandaid or medicinal; its presence at levels above its
of Ferulic Acid found in Wheat. Studies on the subject
flavour threshold is usually considered as a fault.
suggest the ratio of Barley Malt to Wheat Malt required to
Phenols are created from hydroxycinnamic acids
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February 2018
produce the most 4-VG is in the region of 70:30 [3].
Brewers Journal
E sters
&
P henols
s c i e n c e
due to the enzyme catalysed reaction of an alcohol molecule with an Acetyl-CoA molecule. The enzyme responsible for mediating the reaction is the alcohol acetyl transferase or AATase [6]. As these esters are soluble in the lipid based walls of yeast the smaller chain esters are able to leave the cell and
Ester synthesis: In this case, Acetyl-CoA reacts with Ethanol to form Ethyl Acetate
contribute to the aroma profile of the beer [6]. Yeast metabolism and Ester synthesis is a complex process and certainly too broad a subject to be fully broached within the scope of this article. To simplify, essentially the production of Esters hinges on three
Influence +ve or -ve both +/-ve Phenol Increasing pressure Yeast strain
Ester
-
-
+/-
+/-
Increasing temperature
+
Increasing glucose conc
+
Increasing FAN
+
Increasing O2/ fatty acid
-
variables. The concentration of the substrate Acetyl-CoA and alcohol molecules, and the concentration and activity level of the AATase enzyme, which catalyses the reaction [6]. The brewer can guide this process by manipulating the following variables.
Controlling Ester formation
Mash temperature
+/-
C
Grist choice
+/-
enzymes involved in Ester synthesis is strain dependent
hoice of yeast strain – The degree to which a particular yeast strain produces a specific Ester profile is greatly influenced by its genetic makeup.
The possession and expression of genes encoding and will define the final Ester profile of the beer [7]. As with Phenols the best way forward here is to contact your yeast supplier and to ask for advice. Temperature – Raising the temperature of
Pressure – It has been shown that using open top
fermentation increases the expression of enzymes related
tanks at atmospheric pressure increases the levels of
to the synthesis of Higher Alcohols in yeast cells as well
4-VG in Wheat Beers. Fortuitously this has also been
as the aforementioned AAtases [7]. The result is increased
shown to decrease the levels of Styrene, another related,
Ester formation with one study noting a 75% increase in
but undesirable, hydroxycinnamic acid derivative in
Ester formation between 10-12 degrees [7]. Hydrostatic pressure – Tall, and or, pressurized
finished beer [4]. Yeast strain – As already mentioned, a yeast strain
fermenters increase the concentration of CO2 dissolved
should be chosen which displays the POF+ phenotype
in solution. High dissolved CO2 inhibits yeast growth
if this character is required. There are many to choose
by slowing decarboxylation reactions involved in the
from and care must be taken when making a choice. Your
synthesis of Acetyl-CoA and Higher Alcohols [8]. The
yeast supplier should be able to help in this regard. Some
consequence is decreased Ester production at high
wheat beer strains are also classified as var. diastaticus
hydrostatic or top pressures [8]. Wort Composition, Sugars, FAN, Oxygen and Fatty
meaning they possess the STA gene and are able to effectively metabolise dextrins. For a more detailed
Acids – Unsurprisingly the composition of wort greatly
explanation of diastaticus yeasts and the STA gene please
influences the final Ester profile of a beer. Studies have
see the previous issue by Robert Percival [5].
shown that rising levels of Glucose in wort increases the final Ester concentration in a beer; although the
Ester formation
mechanism behind this effect has still to be fully elucidated [9].
T
Increasing Free Amino Nitrogen or FAN increases the
he classic Banana flavour, chemical name Iso-
synthesis of Higher Alcohols leading to greater Ester
amyl acetate, in Wheat Beers comes from a group
formation [7]. Finally, higher levels of Oxygen and Fatty
of chemicals called Esters. Volatile Esters are very
Acid are known to decrease levels of Ester synthesis by
flavour active and often form a significant proportion of
reducing the expression of genes controlling the AATase
the aroma profile in any beer. These volatile esters arise
[7].
brewersjournal.info
February 2018
57
Munich vs Munich classic P henols
Munich was selected in the early 2000’s as our first wheat beer yeast and exhibited mild flavors and aroma. Good performance and flexibility in terms of style were the key characteristics for choosing that strain. We especially love Munich in Gose, Berliner Weisse, American Wheat and Wit beer styles.
LE
TROPIC
AL
FR
UI
RE
T
FR
UI
T
L RA
L
RA
UT
UT
NE
NE
OHOLIC
CL
CL
R
E
E
ALC
OHOLIC
AL
GREEN APP L
G REEN APP L
ALC
TROPIC
NA
NA
E
O
VE
PE
ACID
PP
E
ACI D
beer styles
LE
NA
NA
R
PP DA
BA
BA
fLAVOR & AROMA
PP DA
PP
RE
Munich Classic was launched in 2015 and selected in collaboration with the Doemens Institute in Germany; specifically for its ability to produce traditional Hefe style beers. The banana and clove flavors and aroma are particularly noticeable without any process modifications. This yeast makes a beautiful Hefeweizen, Weizenbock or Dunkelweizen.
PE
&
VE
E sters
O
s c i e n c e
Belgian Wit American Style Belgian Triple Belgian blonde Hefeweizen
tEMPERATURE RANGE
Bavarian Weissbier
Weizenbock
Dunkelweizen
Kristalweizen
17 - 22°C (63 - 72°F)
fLOCCULATION
low. Skim-off yeast in open fermenters
aTTENUATION
medium to high
aLCOHOL TOLERANCE
For more information, you can reach us via email at brewing@lallemand.com
Conclusion
T
here are practical steps a brewer can take to influence the yeast derived Esters and Phenols
12 %ABV
www.lallemandbrewing.com
Bibliography 1: ”Schneider Weisse," [Online]. Available: https://schneider-weisse.de/en/node/16. [Accessed 07 01 2019].
present in Wheat Beer as well as in other beers.
Please see the table below for a summary. To this end, the relationship with your yeast supplier is key. They will know how their strains perform and can make
2: M. Lentz, "The impact of Simple Phenolic Compunds on beer Aroma and Flavor," Fermentation, 2018.
suggestions to brewers for their best use. Included on the following pages are an example recipe for a classic Weisse beer as well as information on our Munich Classic and Munich Wheat beer strains. u
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February 2018
3: I. McMurrough, "Control of Ferulic Acid and 4-Vinyl Guaiacol in Brewing," Jornal. Institute of Brewing, pp. 327-332, 1996.
Brewers Journal
Munich Classic - Munich Hefe 10hl E sters
malt
Liquor Final Kettle Vol
970
Evaporation Rate
Beg Kettle Vol
1000
0.03
L:G
2.5
Mashing in Liquor
460
evaporation amount
0
30
Total Liquor
s c i e n c e
Extract (kg):
122.03 Weight of Malt (kg)
Litres
Sparge Liquor
P henols
Step 2
Step 1
Lauter
&
Original Gravity/Plato BME (premised)
0.860
Colour (Lovibond)
7 to 9
Type of malt
840 1300
1,0484
Munich 1 Wheat Malt Munich 2 TOTAL
12,0
% of Grist
Extract (as-is)
Yield
Colour (L)
Colour contribution
Munich 1
0.400
0.790
0.679
5.0
2.1
Wheat Malt
0.400
0.780
0.671
5.0
2.1
0.2
0.77
0.662
Munich 2
temperature
Font Legend
°F
°C
Conversion Temp
149
65.0
Strike Temp
163
73.0
Sparge acid
Sparge Temp
174
78.9
none
71.85 72.77 36.86 181.47
18
3.8
TOTAL
8.0
Temp Gravity/Brewing parameters Water Malts Hops Yeast
Step 3
hops Type
Kettle Boil Time: 75 Min alpha-acid
IBUs: 15
Hop Additions: 2
Irish Moss @ 30 min before knock-out: (1g per 20 l kettle full volume)
boil time (min)
utilisation %
IBU (%)
IBU contribution
weight of hops (g)
Hersbrucker
0.037
75.00
0.350
0.600
9.00
674
Hersbrucker
0.037
45.00
0.150
0.400
6.00
1049
TOTAL
1723
Step 4
notes
yeast Yeast Type/Number Munich Classic 0.5gm/L max Fermentation Temp
21°C
For more information. you can reach us via email at brewing@lallemand.com
4: R. S. F.-J. M. Katrin J. Schwartz, "Formation of Styrene dependant on fermenation management during wheat beer production," Food Cheistry, vol. 134, no. 4, pp. 2121-2125, 2012. 5: R. Percival, "Diastaticus Yeasts And Their Role In Your Beer," The Brewers Journal, vol. 4, no. 10, pp. 59-63, 2019. 6: G. D. e. a. Kevin J. Verstrepen, "Flavour-Active Esters: Adding Fruitiness to Beer," Journal of Bioscience and Bio Engineering, vol. 96, no. 2, pp. 110-118, 2003.
brewersjournal.info
• Non-filtered • dry hop warm at end of fermentation @ 2gm/L with Herbrucker
www.lallemandbrewing.com
7: E. J. T. J. A. e. a. Pires, "Yeast: The Heart and Soul of Beer's aroma - a review of flavouractive esters and higher alcohols produced by the brewing yeast," Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology, vol. 98, no. 5, pp. 1937-1949, 2014. 8: E. L. G. C. Sophie Landaud, "Top Pressure and Temperature Control the Fusel Alcohol/ Ester Ration Through Yeast Growth in Beer Fermentation," Journal Institute of Brewing, vol. 107, no. 2, pp. 107-117, 2001.
February 2018
59
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F oam
S c i e n c e
Think Foam Positive Foam is a defining characteristic of beers across the globe, with different cultures embracing different styles of beer foam. Just think of the dense nitrogen-enriched stout heads, frothy German lager coifs, and Belgian beers poured with foam so ample and meringue-like, it persists until the last drop (we’re looking at you, Orval). However, foam is also an oftenoverlooked property of beer, but foam quality may make the difference between an okay beer experience and a truly great one. explains Richard Preiss co-founder of Escarpment Laboratories brewersjournal.info
by Richard Preiss
T
here is a lot of pretty cool science surrounding beer foam, so we are going to walk through some of the highlights and finish up with some practical tips to enhance beer foam.
Foam is, at its most simple, a mixture of gas and liquid.
In the case of beer foam, we are talking about a mixture of CO2 (or beer gas) inside bubbles of beer. Beer foam has two major properties: foam formation, and foam stability. When carbonated beer is dispensed, foam is produced as a result of CO2 bubbles released by the pressure reduction. The more nucleation points (cracks, imperfections, etchings) in the glass, the more CO2 will
February 2018
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S c i e n c e
F oam
be released from the beer. Usually, the CO2 will pick up
content. Other wort components can also play a role in
some surface active compounds along the way (such as
foam quality. Polysaccharides have a role in stabilizing
proteins, polysaccharides, etc), which help to stabilize the
bubble size, while melanoidins can also promote foam
foam.
stability.
You can’t make stable foam in a glass of water –
Of relevance to the juicy IPA crowd, there is some
these surface active compounds are required for foam
evidence that polyphenols can negatively impact foam,
stability. Both foam-positive compounds and soluble
since they can bind with proteins that may otherwise be
gas are important for the overall foam quality of a beer.
foam-positive. Recent hop research even shows that
In general, the more CO2 in solution in the beer, the
different hops can have positive or negative effects on
greater the capacity for foam formation. This is why bottle
foam quality! Foam is very complicated, and no single
conditioned Belgian beers with high CO2 pressure tend to
ingredient is a silver bullet for optimal foam.
produce more foam than a standard force carbonated ale.
Foam and our favourite fungus
When foam is formed, the inevitable process of collapse begins. However, the rate of foam collapse is highly dependent on the foam’s stability. When a foam collapses, bubbles within the foam burst and are absorbed back into the liquid phase of the beer. Some beer pouring strategies intended to promote stable form involve pouring beer, then waiting a half minute before
E
ven yeast plays a major role in beer foam quality. When beer (and the yeast that fermented it) is aged, the yeast can sometimes enzymatically
break down LPT1, which can lead to decrease in foam
pouring more beer, to encourage a thicker foam “cap”
stability. This is especially common with yeast which
with less potential for collapse.
is experiencing poor nutrition and being starved in the
A controlled rate of foam collapse is important. Since foam contains beer, and its associated aroma molecules, a stable foam is capable of releasing the flavour of the
bottom of a big tank. Unhealthy yeast can lead to poor foam! Beyond unhealthy yeast ruining foam, some yeasts
beer in a more controlled manner, ensuring a better
even have the ability to enhance foam – lager yeasts
drinking experience throughout the whole pint. We’ll often
contain a gene called CFG1 (Carlsbergensis Foaming
see the evidence of a good foam on our glass of beer –
Gene). CFG1 is a mannoprotein (sugar-containing) on
the beer leaves behind traces of foam called lacing on
the surface of the yeast cell, which can “stick” to bubble
the glass with each sip.
surfaces and prevent them from draining, helping to stabilize foam. There are a couple other similar proteins in
The frothy details
ale yeast, but not much is known about them (yet)!
You lost me
T
here are many compounds present in and near beer which can be foam positive or negative to the beer. The main foam-relevant components of
beer are proteins, particularly two proteins called LTP1 and protein Z. This sounds complicated, but essentially LTP helps to form foam in the beer, while protein Z and
I
understand, this stuff gets complicated. Brewing science is a rabbit hole! Ultimately, we can boil all of this down to factors which are foam-negative, and
those which are foam positive, admitting the current
other grain-derived proteins help to stabilize the foam
limitations of science to explain everything that is
once it has been formed. The intricate balance between
happening.
different proteins and other molecules helps explain why
If we want to maximize foam quality in the brewery, we
we see so many different types of beer foam, from lacy
can taking what we’ve learned as an example. We could
and delicate to dense and rocky!
use a small amount of flaked grain in an all-malt grist,
All ingredients impact the quality of foam. For example,
mash using a step mash in short steps (just enough to
hop iso alpha acids have a big influence on foam
achieve conversion). We could also use a good dose of
quality. Hop suppliers have noticed this and have even
hops
developed specialized hop extract products which can
As you can see, this regimen can be quite flexible as to
aid foam stability such as tetra- and hexa-iso hop extract.
the beer style – this would work equally well for a saison
In general, higher foam stability can be achieved from
as it would for a lager! In fact, it might be even better with
beers with a higher wort protein and hop iso alpha acid
a lager yeast, since these yeasts naturally aid foaming. u
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Brewers Journal
c l a s s ifi e d
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February 2018
Brewers Journal
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February 2018
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date s
&
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events
Norwich will host the Great British Beer Festival Winter at St Andrew's and Blackfriars' stunning medieval friary halls
06/02/19
Brewers Lectures Manchester Castlefield Rooms, Manchester lectures.brewersjournal.info 16/02/19
Beavertown & The Seven Deadly Sins Beavertown Brewery, London beavertownbrewery.co.uk 19/02/19
Great British Beer Festival Winter The Halls,, Norwich winter.gbbf.org.uk
66
February 2018
21/02/19 - 23/02/19
Craft Beer Rising The Old Truman Brewery, London craftbeerrising.co.uk 01/03/19 - 02/03/19
Friends & Family & Beer festival Upper Campfield Market, Manchester friendsandfamily.beer 14/03/19
Brewers Lectures Birmingham The Old Library, Birmingham lectures.brewersjournal.info
Brewers Journal
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