Christian Black
THE
LIFESTYLE YOU DESERVE
Paradise is closer than you thought, less expensive than you imagined, and more beautiful than you dreamt. Warm breezes, soft sand, and azure waters are waiting for you. Whether to lounge poolside with a drink in hand, ride horses along the beach at sunset, learn to surf, enjoy spa pampering, or sample some of the fine international cuisine, Millennium Cabarete has the experience you have been waiting for, and all the luxury that you deserve.
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www.cabaretemillennium.com
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CONTENTS
16 CABARETE IS FOR KIDS
50
20 UPCYCLED PROJECT: RECYCLING SAILS
20
32
26 DINING OUT: OUR FAVORITE PLACES 30 RECIPE: LA BANDERA DOMINICANA 32 FABULOUS FINDS IN THE DR 50 CABARETE BARRIOS 60 CABARETE: HISTORY OF EDUCATION
60
CABARETE
75
70 RECOMMENDED READS: STORIES OF HISPANIOLA 75 Q&A: SUSI MAI FROM MAITAI GLOBAL
Responsible Tourism and Investment Guide | Created by the Mariposa DR Foundation Editor-in-Chief & Director of Advertising Sales Contributors Patricia Thorndike Suriel Anna Cait Wade, Sarah Fisher, Jessica Lawson, Jessica Mitchell, Emma Shoaf Graphic Designer & Sales Assistant Photographers Pamela Cuadros Amy S. Martin Thank you to DR Jazz, Nicole Bleck, and Susi Mai for providing additional photos.
Mariposa DR Foundation www.theguidecabarete.com
To advertise your business in the 2018 Guide, please contact us at: Deadline for submissions and payment for 2018 issue: June 15th, 2017.
promo@mariposadrfoundation.org
CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 7
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IN
more than two decades of living in Cabarete, I have seen local Dominicans and Haitians and the international community band together to overcome adversity countless times. In the last months of 2016 the entire North Coast was faced with extreme flooding that had devastating effects on families and businesses. People of all backgrounds joined together with local non-profits and government officials to start fundraisers, food drives, and emergency relief. Those that had almost nothing to begin with opened their homes to displaced neighbors or helped scoop water out of friends’ homes. Hopefully by the time you read this, Cabarete will be back to business as usual: a paradise with sunny beaches and ideal watersport conditions. Not only that, but the Dominicans and Haitians you meet will greet you with friendly smiles and optimism that may surprise you in light of the recent environmental disaster. That is exactly what makes Cabarete so special. The Dominican and Haitian residents are resilient, warm, and welcoming. They are what bring so many people back year after year, or make Cabarete their permanent home. Together with those that have been adopted into the Cabarete community from around the world, they make Cabarete unique. I encourage you to get to know the Cabarete community deeply. You will be inspired to enjoy all it has to offer responsibly, and invest in making it an even better place for all. Cabarete: there is no place quite like it in the world. Bienvenidos!
Patricia Thorndike Suriel Executive Director of the Mariposa DR Foundation
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CABARETE
ADVENTURE CAPITAL OF THE CARIBBEAN
Many people come to the Dominican Republic to relax on the beach and work on their tan. Those who come to Cabarete will find this and much, much more. Cabarete is the ideal place for action-sports and adventure. As the kiteboarding and windsurfing Mecca of the Caribbean, Cabarete offers a wide array of activities for thrill-seekers. Ranked among the top ten sites in the world for water sports, this little strip of paradise is drawing more and more enthusiasts from around the globe. Many of the expatriates who have taken up residence in this small town came here seeking an adventure and never left. Whether on land or sea – from kiting, surfing, and windsurfing to hiking, canyoning, and mountain biking, Cabarete has it all. We are proud to present some of the finest activities and adventures you can find in and around Cabarete in this guide. 10 | CABARETE GUIDE 2017
“Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all” –Helen Keller
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DOMINICAN REPUBLIC The Dominican Republic occupies the eastern two-thirds of the island of Hispaniola, which is shared with Haiti. The Dominican Republic is one of the Caribbean’s most geographically diverse countries. Made up of sandy beaches, fertile soil, lush valleys, and rugged mountains, the DR is a paradise for memorable vacations and island living. There is no place like the Dominican Republic. A country that captures a variety of influences, residents and visitors are constantly surrounded by Spanish, African, and native Taino cultures. While Spanish is the national language, you will surely hear many other languages during your stay, including English and Haitian Creole. The language of music is also everywhere in the DR and dancing is highly encouraged. The most popular genres are merengue, bachata, and reggaeton, all of which you will hear on the beach and public streets. As the Caribbean’s largest tourist destination, more than four million visitors flock to all-inclusive hotels and resorts annually and tourism remains responsible for fueling the Dominican Republic’s economic growth. Aside from tourism, the economy is highly dependent on the United States, which serves as the main destination for many Dominican exports.
FAST FACTS Capital: Santo Domingo Area: 48,442 km2, about twice the size of New Hampshire Population: 10.6 million Popular Pastimes: Baseball, merengue, dominoes, cockfights Main Exports: Sugar, tobacco, cocoa, coffee Climate: Tropical, warm year-round with seasonal variations in rainfall •
The DR has the largest economy in Central America and the Caribbean
•
The city with the 2nd largest population of Dominicans, after Santo Domingo, is New York City. The third is Santiago.
•
The DR is the only country in the world with the Bible on its flag.
•
Members of the armed forces and police are not allowed to vote.
•
Hispaniola is the only island in the world shared by two countries. CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 13
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Cabarete is one of the best destinations for a family vacation. Kids want to explore, be active and try new things and they want you, mom or dad, to have fun too!
cabarete There are more things to do in and around Cabarete for children and families than you can do in a week. This is why so many families from all over the world return year after year and why many end up raising their children here.
Why is Cabarete so great? Dominicans LOVE children!
One of the first things you will notice is that no matter what restaurant or hotel you visit, everyone is happy to see and play with your children. You may have a hard time getting them out of the pool or off the beach, but here are some of our favorite things you must try with your kids.
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is for
kids
"if you never did you should. these things are fun and fun is good." dr. seuss CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 17
here are a few of our favorite things to enjoy:
for the active
family, you’re in the right place.
•
Kite lessons at LEK are a great way to spend a few afternoons. Or try your hand at wind surfing with Vela.
•
Mountain biking with Iguana Mama is sure to get everyone’s adrenaline going.
•
Zip Line at Monkey Jungle for a spectacular view and a chance to make friends with real monkeys!
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•
Boogie boarding is the most underrated sport out there. Most wind and kite surfing schools rent boogie boards too! Grab a few and have a blast riding the waves.
•
Horseback riding is a fun adventure for the entire family. Even toddlers can come along for the ride.
•
Fishing like a local is sure to entertain the whole family. Learn all about the local catch with Freddy’s Fishing Tours and enjoy climbing coconut trees on the beach.
•
Surfing Lessons are great for kids and adventurous parents. Take lessons with some of the best local instructors at 321 Takeoff or Pauhana Surf Schools.
•
Tennis is a great early morning or late afternoon activity at Nanny Estates or Sea Horse Ranch.
•
Kayak River Tours or Stand Up Paddle (SUP) is sure to be an adventure for the entire family.
looking for some
relaxing or cultural activities?
cabarete has that too! •
Visit the Mariposa Center for Girls on an educational tour and learn about how girls are the most powerful force for change.
•
Wade in the Tide Pools in front of Velero and Otra Cosa and marvel at the natural wonders you will find on the beach.
•
Take a beading class at BeadIt! and go home with your own handmade souvenir.
•
Get your hair braided by a local and rock a fun Dominican style on your vacation.
•
Go shopping and practice your negotiating skills with the local shop owners and beach vendors. Your kids will love the fun of bargaining for local souvenirs.
"don’t cry because it’s over. smile because it happened." dr. seuss
•
Get serenaded by local musicians while waiting for your dinner on the beach. Sing along to Guantanamera or La Bamba!
•
Play a game of pick up volleyball, soccer or baseball with the local kids and make some new friends.
•
Explore the countryside on a chocolate tour and learn about how it’s made from plant to candy bar or cup while immersing yourself in Dominican culture.
Most importantly - Make new friends, do something you have never done before and get out of your comfort zone! CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 19
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S
ailboat racers understand the importance of harnessing the power of the wind—of redirecting this energy to advance towards their goal. The Upcycled Sails Project harnesses this same momentum to steer these racing sails much further than the finish line in Newport, Rhode Island. The project steers these sails all the way to Cabarete, a water sport community on the north coast of the Dominican Republic, where they are “upcycled” into hand-crafted bags. Like a sailboat redirecting the power of the wind, Upcycled aims to redirect human environmental impact and harness this energy to provide economic opportunities for women in Cabarete and invest in educating Cabarete´s girls, the next generation of environmental stewards. Upcycled is a collaborative initiative between The Mariposa DR Foundation, 11 th Hour Racing, and The Laurel Eastman Kiteboarding School. Recycled sails, donated from the 11th Hour Project, are shipped from the United States to the Mariposa DR Foundation in Cabarete. Here, they are “upcycled” into new bags by a group of local seamstresses in a sewing workshop within Mariposa. These bags are then sold both locally and abroad to provide a sustainable income for these women and their families, as well as to fund Mariposa’s environmental education curriculum. Upcycled reduces the number of racing sails being sent to landfills and instead uses them to create an income for women in Cabarete. CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 21
Mamá Masón, the head seamstress for Upcycled, is a driving force behind Upcycled’s impact. Every day, Mamá Masón comes to the workshop at the Mariposa Center for Girls where she shares her expertise—developed over decades of sewing and 15 years working in kite repair—to teach women how to transform used racing sails into hand-crafted bags.
“EVERY SAIL THAT IS DONATED BECOMES A JOB, A SKILL, AN INCOME, A SENSE OF WORTH, AN OPPORTUNITY TO ADVANCE THE COMMUNITY.”
Brock Callen, the 11th Hour Racing Ambassador who has been involved with the project from its inception, captures the essence of the project perfectly by saying: “Every sail that is donated becomes a job, a skill, an income, a sense of worth, an opportunity to advance the community.” These advances are already taking shape as Upcycled continues to grow. The project currently employs six local women as seamstresses, two being recent graduates of the Mariposa Program. Rosa Lourdes and Ana Iris both graduated from high school and Mariposa programs two years ago, and became involved with Upcycled this past year. Sewing is a valuable skill that can continue to open up job opportunities. Rosa Lourdes is already using her sewing skills as she studies fashion and designs her own clothes. 22 | CABARETE GUIDE 2017
“As an entrepreneur I’m in love with the ‘social business’ model, creating jobs and sustainable income, and investing the profit in community development and environment feels fantastic.” Laurel Eastman
“WE CAN DO OUR PART IN A SMALL CORNER OF THE WORLD (TEACHING DOMINICAN GIRLS SKILLS: SWIMMING, SURFING, PERMACULTURE AND OCEAN ECOLOGY) AND NOW FEEL THAT WE’RE PART OF THE BIGGER PICTURE AND NOT ALONE ON OUR LITTLE ISLAND.”
Proceeds from the Upcycled bags benefit both the seamstresses and the students at the Mariposa DR Foundation, specifically through the Environmental Education Program. Environmental education is an integral part of the Mariposa DR Foundation; permaculture gardening, Environmental Education classes, organic cooking classes, surfing, swimming, biking and other outdoor sports constitute a comprehensive curriculum with the goal of teaching students to love and care for the environment. As the girls continue to develop an environmental understanding in Cabarete, Upcycled provides an opportunity for them to think globally. Patricia Thorndike Suriel, Mariposa’s Founder and Executive Director, describes how inspiring it is that “we can do our part in a small corner of the world (teaching Dominican girls skills: swimming, surfing, permaculture and ocean ecology) and now feel that we’re part of the bigger picture and not alone on our little island.” In this way, Upcycled represents both the importance of promoting environmental awareness at the local level in Cabarete, and also of developing an international dialogue where everyone can make a difference in protecting the environment.
Like a sailboat race, the Upcycled Sails Project represents forward momentum. A forward momentum of: education, training, and knowledge from one generation to the next. As the project continues to advance “winning practices,” we hope to see a new generation of environmentally-conscious individuals not just here in Cabarete, but wherever the wind may take you.
You can purchase Upcycled bags at the Mariposa Center for Girls, at Cabarete Coffee Company, and soon at www.mariposadrfoundation.org CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 23
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CABARETE IS A FOOD LOVER’S DREAM.
With cuisine from all over the world, the options are endless and satisfy both the simple and sophisticated palates. Don’t miss out on dining at some of our favorite local restaurants!
CAFES & FAST EATS
Cabarete Coffee Company Clorofila Fresh Fresh Café
FINE DINING
Aqua Beach Club Bliss Chez Arsenio La Casita de Papi Natura Cabana Serenade Otra Cosa
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809 571 0919 829 993 5607 809 571 2180
809 571 0395 809 571 4995 809 571 9721 809 867 0801 809 986 3750 809 571 1507 809 571 0578 809 876 4386
ETHNIC FAVORITES
Blue Moon Retreat D’Hot Indian Restaurant Gordito’s Fresh Mex Roma Yalla Yamazato
DINING
809 757 0614 809 628 1202 829 844 3434 809 571 9481 809 571 9357 809 571 0814
OUT
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Mediterranean, Middle Eastern & Caribbean
Cuisine
Book your parties, weddings & special occasions
Sea Horse Ranch - Cabarete 809 571 4995 thebeachclub@sea-horse-ranch.com Open to the Public 11am - 10pm
CABARETE SOSUA 28 | CABARETE GUIDE 2017
ALTOS DE CHAVON
SANTO DOMINGO
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LA BANDERA DOMINICANA
You can also enjoy “La Bandera Dominicana” in some of Cabarete’s fine dining restaurants like Aqua, located beachside at the Millennium Hotel.
You can’t visit the Dominican Republic without eating “La Bandera Dominicana” (the Dominican Flag). This traditional Dominican lunch of white rice, beans, and chicken is a staple for most Dominican families and the most important meal of the day. This meal is best enjoyed in a local home-style restaurant, but if you love it so much you want to try it at home here is the recipe:
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • • •
7 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 tablespoon olive oil 8 cups water 4 cups long grain white rice 2 cups dry red kidney beans 2 pinches oregano 3 bell peppers 2 small red onions 2 cloves garlic, crushed ½ teaspoon mashed garlic 1 cup diced auyama (pumpkin)
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• • • • • • • • •
2 cups tomato sauce 4 sprigs thyme (optional) ½ teaspoon chopped fresh cilantro 2 lbs chicken cut into small pieces 2 limes cut into halves 3 teaspoon salt (more may be necessary) 1 teaspoon regular white sugar 4 plum tomatoes cut into quarters A small bunch fresh cilantro leaves
PREP TIME
COOK TIME
TOTAL TIME
30 mins
1 hr 30 mins
2 hrs
Rice Preparation:
Chicken Preparation:
Beans Preparation:
1. Heat 2½ tablespoons vegetable oil and 1¼ teaspoon salt in large pot
1. Cut chicken into small pieces. Scrub thoroughly with lime
1. Soak 2 cups of beans in water overnight.
2. Mix chicken, pinch of oregano, 1 small red onion chopped in fine strips, 1 teaspoon of salt, and ½ teaspoon of mashed garlic in bowl. Marinate for 30 minutes.
2. Remove beans from soaking water and boil in 6 cups fresh water until soft (may take up to an hour).
2. Add 6 cups water 3. When water boils, add 4 cups rice, stirring regularly to avoid sticking 4. When all the water has evaporated, cover with tight fitting lid and simmer over very low heat for 15 minutes 5. Add 2½ tablespoons of vegetable oil, stir, cover again for 5 minutes
COOK TIME 40 mins
3. Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil and 1 teaspoon of sugar in a pot over medium heat until it browns. 4. Add the chicken and sauté until meat is light brown. 5. Add 2 tablespoons of water. Cover and simmer over medium heat for 15 minutes, stirring and adding water as necessary. 6. Add 4 plum tomatoes cut into quarters, and 2 bell peppers. Simmer until vegetables are cooked through adding water and stirring as needed. 7. Add 1 cup tomato sauce and ½ cup water. Simmer over low heat. Add fresh cilantro. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Take beans out of water but save the water. 4. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a pot over medium heat. 5. Add 1 pinch oregano, 1 chopped bell pepper, 1 small red onion chopped into four quarters, 2 crushed cloves of garlic, 1 cup diced auyama, 1 cup tomato sauce, 4 sprigs of thyme and ½ teaspoon chopped cilantro. Cook and stir for 30 seconds. 6. Add beans and simmer for two minutes. 7. Add water beans were boiled in. 8. Lightly mash beans with potato masher to break them out of skin. 9. Cook until creamy consistency is reached. 10. Salt to taste.
PREP TIME
COOK TIME
15 mins
25 mins
PREP TIME
COOK TIME
10 mins
1 hr 20 mins
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FABULOUS FINDS in the
Dominican Republic
Many of the lush tropical plants that flourish in the Dominican Republic have amazing benefits and rich histories. While you may lust over the paradise-like backdrop of the vibrant green foliage, after a little investigation, you will find there is more to these plants than meets the eye. Moringa, bija and aloe vera are three in particular that you surely want to know more about.
BIJA Bixa orellana is a shrub or small tree originating from the tropical region of the Americas. It was an important element of the native peoples of the Caribbean, and especially those of Hispaniola. The indigenous Tainos originally used the seeds to make red body paint and lipstick. For this reason, bija is sometimes called the lipstick tree. The tree is best known as the source of annatto, a natural orange-red condiment (also called “achiote” 32 | CABARETE GUIDE 2017
or “bijol”) obtained from the waxy arils that cover its seeds. It is a rich source of both vitamins A and D. The ground seeds are widely used in traditional dishes in the DR, such as pasteles en hojas, spaghetti, locrio, moro, and meat dishes. The seeds impart a subtle flavor and aroma and a yellow to reddish-orange color to food. The seeds are used to color and flavor rice instead of the much more expensive saffron.
MORINGA Moringa is a medicinal plant known for its nutrient-packed, antioxidant, and tissue-protective properties. Moringa oleifera contains nearly all of the vitamins, minerals and amino acids to support the health of most body systems. Here in tropical conditions, the Moringa tree grows easily from seedlings or from branch cuttings. No part of this fast growing tree goes to waste, as locals take advantage of every part of the plant, including the pods, roots, bark, flowers and seeds in preparations and tea.
ALOE VERA The Dominican Republic is the top producer of aloe vera, locally known as såbila, in all of Latin America. This plant contains a number of vitamins, amino acids and antioxidant properties. After a day at the beach, aloe vera is the savior to your skin, as it can help to quickly heal sunburns and has anti-aging properties to keep your skin looking young and healthy. If you can stand the bitter taste and gooey texture, drinking aloe vera in your favorite juice or water can help to fortify your body’s immune system while maintaining a healthy Caribbean glow.
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Sustainable CABARETE Dining & COFFEE COMPANY Communities Cabarete Coffee Company is famous for having Cabarete’s best cup of joe, offering several blends of organic Dominican coffee served fresh in the shop or in bags to brew at home. The locally sourced food and fantastic service are also among the best in Cabarete, as proven by Trip Advisor’s Certificate of Excellence 6 years in a row. Cabarete Coffee Company has always lived by its motto to provide products that are good to taste, good for the earth, and good for the people that grow them. We implement many environmentally friendly practices including using local, organic ingredients whenever possible, composting, and using biodegradable to-go products. We pride ourselves on working with local suppliers and providing affordable, healthy, fast food options.
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After years of supporting the Mariposa DR Foundation through Mariposa blend sales, catering services, and internships for Mariposa graduates, we are thrilled to announce that the Mariposa DR Foundation will be taking over the cafÊ and 100% of Cabarete Coffee Company proceeds will go to support the Mariposa DR Foundation’s education and empowerment programs! CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 37
The Mariposa DR Foundation’s mission is to educate and empower adolescent girls to end the generational cycle of poverty. At the Mariposa Center for Girls, we work with 150 Dominican and Haitian girls ages 7-19 and also provide them with full scholarships to a local private school. Our holistic programs include literacy, sports, math, music, financial independence, dance, science, tutoring, theater, environmental education, swimming, health classes & clinics, art, sewing, English, job-training, and much more! Cabarete Coffee Company is the latest addition to our innovative job-training program, providing an experiential learning classroom where our oldest girls can practice essential skills. The workshops and internships held in the café will put the Mariposa girls one step closer to successful careers and lifting their families out of poverty. As if the amazing, healthy coffee and food were not motivation enough to make Cabarete Coffee Company part of your daily routine, now you can feel good that every peso spent is creating sustainable solutions to end generational poverty in Cabarete. By visiting Cabarete Coffee Company, you are not only supporting environmental preservation and sustainable agricultural practices on the island, but also giving back to the local community.
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Stop by Cabarete Coffee Company today for breakfast or lunch to learn more about the Mariposa DR Foundation’s important work!
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Mediterranean Cuisine
809.986.3750
DOMINICAN STYLE FOOD EAT LIKE A LOCAL
African, Spanish, Taíno, and Middle Eastern flavors come together to make up traditional Dominican dishes. You’ll often hear the Dominican Republic being referred to as the “bread basket” of the Caribbean because most locals grow, farm and catch almost everything they eat.
A
traditional breakfast would consist of mangú, fried eggs, fried salami, fried cheese and sometimes avocado. This is called “Los Tres Golpes” or “The Three Hits”. The largest, most important meal of the day is lunch. Its most typical form, nicknamed La Bandera (“The Flag”), consists of rice, red beans and meat (beef, chicken, pork, or fish), sometimes accompanied by a side of salad. What Dominicans tend to eat depends highly on where they live – whether near the sea or in the mountains. Visit a local home and it is quite common to have an outdoor kitchen where you will find large pots of stewed chicken, pork or beef with rice and beans to feed the entire family. In a seaside fishing village, you’re more likely to find a great variety of seafood – shrimp, crabs and mahi-mahi or dorado. Walking through the neighborhood or driving in the countryside, you’re likely to pass a roadside stand with different types of meat hanging in the open air. People tend to shop in the morning for what is fresh that day as many local homes are without refrigeration.
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SOME THINGS TO TRY! Colmados or corner stores are a staple of any Dominican neighborhood. Several of them will be scattered throughout the streets and while some are very unassuming, some are larger with bright lights, loud music and packed full of people. You can purchase basic food items in the smallest sizes – one egg, a few teaspoons of sugar, some fresh fruit or veggies, a cold soda, beer or fresh juice.
SANCOCHO
Meat from four types of animals are mixed with root vegetables and plantain to produce a very rich, thick, meaty stew unlike anything you’ve tried before. The simplified version might contain just beef, and perhaps chicken.
TOSTONES
Twice fried plantains are a staple on the Dominican table. Made from unripe plantains, and served as a side dish to meat and fish dishes, or as part of a larger meal.
MANGÚ
Mangú is a uniquely Dominican food; it is a very popular dish consisting of mashed plantains, usually served with eggs, fried Dominican “salami” and Queso Frito (Fried Cheese).
LA BANDERA
Pollo Guisado: You will be missing out if you don’t try this fall-off-thebone chicken, with strong flavors and amazing sauce. Chicken is usually one of the parts of the traditional Dominican lunch menu.
CHICHARRON
The local colmado is one of the best places to meet locals. Grab a beer here. It is much cheaper than in a bar or restaurant. If you want to make some friends, buy a grande (large beer), get a few plastic glasses and offer a glass to some of the people sitting around. Pull up a plastic chair and hang out on the sidewalk and watch the passers by. Don’t be afraid to enter. Everyone is very friendly and loves to meet foreigners. 46 | CABARETE GUIDE 2017
Usually a piece of fried pork crackling. However, the word can also be used to describe fried chicken.
CONCON
This isn’t something you cook on its own. Instead, it’s a byproduct of cooking rice. It’s the layer of burnt rice left behind when cooking in a caldero (iron pot). It contains the most flavor and due to it’s scarcity is usually fought over at the dinner table.
LOCRIO
The Dominican version of Spanish paella, meat and rice— usually chicken or pork — is cooked all together in the same pot so that the rice is infused with the meat flavors.
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The friendly Dominicans and their carefree spirits are the soul of Cabarete, and the reason Cabarete has grown to attract such a diverse crowd of visitors and residents. While there is a lot to see on the beach side of town, you may want to learn more about the local neighborhoods on the other side of the main road!
“La Ciénega” literally translates to “the swamp” and is a low-lying neighborhood built on top of marshlands. In order to build there, swamplands were filled in and the lagoon of Cabarete still surrounds the neighborhood. This is the westernmost neighborhood of Cabarete, with one large entrance, one small back entrance, and a foot trail to access the deepest part of the neighborhood. At the front of La Ciénega in between the two vehicle entrances is a large wall painted with girl empowerment murals and a sign marking the entrance to the Mariposa Center for Girls. Here Dominican and Haitian girls from all of Cabarete’s neighborhoods come together for education and empowerment programs that will allow them to end the generational cycle of poverty. In La Ciénega and the other neighborhoods the signs of extreme poverty are unavoidable. If you would like to do something about it, join us! CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 51
The Callejón de la Loma neighborhood is a bustling center of activity near the center of Cabarete, marked by the only stoplight in town. The traffic light was installed there in 2015 because of the huge amount of people, cars, and motorcycles coming in and out at all hours of day and night. At the front of this neighborhood you can find many expatriates and locals living together, as well as many businesses. The farther back you go the fewer foreigners, but not fewer people! At the back of Callejón de la Loma are foothills and a cave system that are part of a National Park and can be explored through tours. The name of the neighborhood comes from these hills, “loma” translates to hill. “Callejón” means alley, so the road that connects the hills to the main highway gave the neighborhood the name “alley of the hill.” All of the other streets of this neighborhood branch off of that road, and many are conveniently numbered starting with “Calle Uno” (Street One) all the way up to “Calle Doce” (Street Twelve) at the bottom of the hill.
“CALLEJÓN” MEANS “ALLEY”, SO THE ROAD THAT CONNECTS THE HILLS TO THE MAIN HIGHWAY GAVE THE NEIGHBORHOOD THE NAME “ALLEY OF THE HILL.”
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Gordito’s
Bliss
Calle 3
Calle 6
Calle 10
National Park
Lagoon
The lagoon of Cabarete also surrounds this neighborhood, as much of the fresh water supplying this body of water comes up from a spring under the hills. In the foothills you can observe rural Dominican life, only minutes from the business of downtown. There you will find traditional houses and families that depend on agriculture sustained by the red-orange dirt. It is also great terrain for mountain biking and hiking! CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 53
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MEET BLANCO, THE MAN BEHIND THE NAME!
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El Ciego, “the blind man,” one of the well-known residents of El Play and grandfather to more than 20 children that live in the neighborhood.
IN DOMINICAN SPANISH “EL PLAY” MEANS BASEBALL FIELD.
EL PLAY DE CABARETE In Dominican Spanish “El Play” means baseball field. Baseball is central to Dominican culture and to this neighborhood! Past Janet’s Supermarket heading east out of town, you can easily miss the narrow entrance that only one vehicle can squeeze through at a time. The entrance quickly opens up into a baseball field ringed by houses. During baseball season you can see young men pursuing the dream of making it into the big leagues in the US practicing from dawn to dusk. Some of the families in the neighborhood have been there for generations and are baseball families, dedicated to training these boys and working with scouts from all the MLB teams. 56 | CABARETE GUIDE 2017
Although there are two other “Plays” in Cabarete that serve as community spaces, one in Callejón de la Loma and one in La Cienega, El Play de Cabarete is for the most serious players. Players that practiced here have been recruited to the Yankees, Mets, and Mariners, among others. This is one of the smallest neighborhoods in Cabarete, as not far past the baseball field the limits of Cabarete’s lagoon are marked by tall reeds and standing water. Stop by on a Sunday afternoon to watch local youth teams or the recreational women’s softball team play a full game! Watch out for loose balls! CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 57
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HISTORY OF EDUCATION IN CABARETE Mornings in Cabarete are bustling with movement as parents drop their children off to school. You may see three or four children piled onto a moto in their uniforms, ready to learn. Compared to 20 years ago, Cabarete has come a long way in providing a better education for its youth. However, even in light of the positive change, there are still real and persistent obstacles to ensuring the children of this town receive a quality education.
HOW FAR WE HAVE COME? A look back... Thirty-five years ago, Cabarete was a sleepy fishing village of about 500. This is hard for visitors to believe today when they visit this bustling, international tourist destination with almost 17,000 year-round residents.
were allowed to attend Dominican schools until 8th grade. Unfortunately, the law still prevents Haitian children without proper paperwork from attending school past the 8th grade, but at the time, it was a step forward.
1930s - 1980s: Cabarete residents were fishermen and
In 2012, a beautiful new public school is built in Callejón de La Loma that can house up to 750 students. Much anticipation and excitement surrounds this positive promise for improved education in this town.
peasants or military men posted by the dictator Trujillo to guard the beach from a U.S. invasion. The poorest families settled on the beach, the least arable land. They gathered almonds, sea grapes, and fished in the lagoon, while their children played on the beach. There were two small oneroom schoolhouses on the east side of town, which still stand today: Puerto Cabarete and Punta Cabarete.
Late 1980s: French Canadian windsurfers “discovered”
Today: Three years after construction, the school in Callejón
de La Loma remains unopened. Current public schools remain overcrowded and under-resourced, and there is still no real public high school for the children of Cabarete.
Cabarete as the best windsurfing destination in the Caribbean. The introduction of international tourism contributed to the rapid growth of the town’s population, and the educational needs of Cabarete quickly grew.
Education in this town has come a long way in the past thirty-five years. Even since this guide first reported on the history of schooling in Cabarete five years ago, there have been real and meaningful improvements.
1986-1996: Under President Joaquin Balaguer, the
Here in Cabarete, schools are in the transition of moving from half-day to full-day schooling. Although there are enormous growing pains, this is a great milestone. Additionally, access to school supplies has greatly improved.
Minister of Education under Trujillo and the oldest president in the world to ever hold office, children could not enter public school until they were seven years old, but many did not begin until age eight. As a result, a child born into poverty in 1990 or earlier had little chance of making it past the fifth grade.
1996: Leonel Fernandez and the PLD (Dominican Liberation Party) came into power. Books began to appear in Cabarete public schools, although sometimes not until the end of the school year.
1999: President Fernandez introduced kindergarten,
allowing children as young as five years old to attend public school. However, most public school teachers in Cabarete still only held eighth grade or high school degrees.
2000 - 2012: Under Hipolito Mejia’s tenure (Domin-
ican Revolutionary Party or PRD), some desks and the first college-trained teachers appeared in Cabarete public schools. For the first time, children of Haitian descent 60 | CABARETE GUIDE 2017
Committed investments from community members have ensured many students have necessary materials, such as pens, paper, and notebooks. Furthermore, due to more effective government systems, there is now reliable access to school books. School cancellations are down considerably, meaning that learning is interrupted less frequently. Unheard of before, there are now teachers trained in early childhood education. The Mariposa DR Foundation works to support local public and private schools while providing education and empowerment programs to 150 Dominican and Haitian girls. Evidently, we have come a long way in many different areas. Yet, all achievements aside, there is still a great deal of work to be done. For instance, although the all-day school program is an excellent change, rote memorization is still the foundational teaching methodology in the schools
here. This means that graduates can leave school without ever having learned critical thinking skills, which are essential for problem-solving and success in the real world. Additionally, in many ways, the system sets children up for failure. Copious homework is assigned, much of it requiring internet research, even though most students don’t have access to internet or a device that allows them to complete these assignments. Children who are not competent in their own language are required to study two foreign languages beginning in fifth grade. One must question why the ability to read and write in Spanish is not the number one priority. A few years ago, it was not unusual to have fifteen-yearold boys sitting in a third grade classroom. This obviously created an unsafe and uncomfortable environment in the classroom for young girls, not to mention the challenges of teaching across very broad maturity and development levels. While this is no longer the case, the reasons behind the change are not so positive. Modeling the U.S. school system, Dominican heads of school are now passing failing students onto the next grade so that they are able to report favorable outcomes for their schools. Children are
IN 1994, WHEN I FIRST ENTERED THE PUERTO CABARETE PUBLIC SCHOOL, THERE WERE ONLY BROKEN DOWN, ANCIENT DESKS. THERE WERE TWO OR THREE CHILDREN PER DESK, OR THEY SAT ON THE FLOOR. THERE WAS ONE LATRINE, AND IT OFTEN WAS OUT OF ORDER. NO LIGHTS, FANS, PENS, PAPER, BOOKS OR RULERS. SOMETIMES, THERE WAS CHALK. IF YOU WERE LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE A PENCIL YOU HELD ONTO IT UNTIL THE LEAD RAN OUT. ONE DAY, I DONATED FIVE BOOKS TO THE SCHOOL; THREE WEEKS LATER I WENT BACK TO CHECK TO SEE IF THE CHILDREN LIKED THE BOOKS, AND THEY WERE GONE. IT WAS THEN THAT I KNEW WE NEEDED A BIGGER MOVEMENT. Patricia Thorndike Suriel, founder of Cabarete’s first library in 1995
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UNFORTUNATELY, LESS THAN 5% OF ALL
OF CHILDREN THAT ATTENDED PUBLIC SCHOOLS IN CABARETE GRADUATED FROM HIGH SCHOOL.
allowed to pass grade levels without understanding basic mathematics or language. You may even have students unable to write their names. While vested community members are encouraged by the improved classroom dynamics, they are still waiting to see that these children are receiving a competent education. Three years ago, a beautiful school facility able to accommodate 750 students was built in Callejรณn de La Loma. Three years later, its doors remain closed. Entering the space, you see a world of possibilities for the 2,000 children living in Cabarete, a large percentage of them from the very neighborhood where the school lies. Seemingly, the only thing missing from the school are a few toilets. Hundreds of desks and chairs sit unused, still brand new in plastic wrap. A fully equipped kitchen collects dust. Chalkboards remain markless.
LOCAL TEACHERS AND SCHOOL DIRECTORS HAVE WAITED ANXIOUSLY, FOR YEARS NOW, FOR A SIGN THAT THEY WILL MOVE TO THE NEW FACILITY. THEY ARE STILL WAITING. 62 | CABARETE GUIDE 2017
After touring the facility with Puerto Cabarete School Director, Paulina Perez, in summer of 2016, The Mariposa DR Foundation offered to donate the remaining toilets needed, as well as source funding for the remaining deficits, which appeared to be very minimal. Sadly, their offer was turned down. Months passed, and the school still remains closed. Residents of Cabarete are also fed up. Three strikes have taken place in Callejรณn with demands for action. In September of 2016 President Danilo Medina visited the school with Ms. Perez, hopefully a sign of progress. When there are invested community members willing to meet the deficits,
WHAT WILL IT TAKE TO OPEN THE DOORS TO THIS SCHOOL? The children of Cabarete are waiting. An entire generation is losing the opportunity to learn. It is high time their demands for education be met.
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AMAZING PLACES TO STAY
Cabarete has accommodation options to fit every taste and budget both on and off the beach. Here are our 2017 favorite picks for your stay in Cabarete. Our hotel partners have proven their commitment to offering great accommodations and ending generational poverty by supporting the work of the Mariposa DR Foundation. We would love it if you support them!
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RECOMMENDED READS Mariposa DR Foundation’s Honorary Chairwoman, Julia Alvarez, is recognized for her extraordinary storytelling. In poetry and in prose, Alvarez explores themes of identity, family, and cultural divides. She illustrates the complexity of navigating two worlds and reveals the human capacity for strength in the face of oppression. Alvarez has won numerous awards for her work, including the Pura Belpré and Américas Awards for her books for young readers, the Hispanic Heritage Award in Literature, the F. Scott Fitzgerald Award for Outstanding Achievement in American Literature, and the 2013 National Medal of Arts. She is currently a writer-in-residence at Middlebury College. In 1997, with her husband, Bill Eichner, Alvarez established Alta Gracia, a sustainable coffee farm/literacy center in the Dominican Republic. Below are several must-reads from our beloved Julia’s collection and a few of our other favorite Hispaniola stories.
A CAFECITO STORY An eco-fable based on her and her husband’s experiences trying to reclaim a small coffee farm in her native Dominican Republic. A story of love, coffee, birds and hope, A Cafecito Story shows how the return to the traditional methods of shade-grown coffee can rehabilitate and rejuvenate the landscape and human culture, while at the same time preserving vital winter habitat for threatened songbirds.
BEFORE WE WERE FREE
TÍA LOLA STORIES
Anita de la Torre is a twelve-year-old girl living in the Dominican Republic in 1960. Most of her relatives have emigrated to the United States, her Tío Toni has disappeared, Papi has been getting mysterious phone calls about butterflies and someone named Mr. Smith, and the secret police have started terrorizing her family for their suspected opposition to the country’s dictator. While Anita deals with a frightening series of events, she also struggles with her adolescence and her own personal fight to be free.
When Miguel’s aunt Tía Lola comes from the Dominican Republic to Vermont to help out his Mami, who recently got divorced, Miguel is embarrassed by his unusual aunt: her beauty mark keeps changing places on her face, she drapes her lace mantilla across their windows, and she paints their house purple. Tía Lola’s English is nonexistent — but how come she has no trouble making friends? In each of these intertwining children’s stories, Miguel finds his life changing in unexpected ways as he discovers himself.
Keep an eye out for Julia Alvarez’s new children’s book about Mariposas! Coming in 2017.
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THE BRIEF WONDROUS LIFE OF OSCAR WAO by Junot Díaz
IN THE TIME OF THE BUTTERFLIES This story chronicles the tale of how three of the Mirabal sisters lost their lives in the fight for liberation against dictator Trujillo in the 1960s. At the Mariposa Center for Girls, it is required reading for all participants and volunteers, as it tells the valiant story of the daring, revolutionary Dominican women who came before us. The spirit of the Mirabal sisters, the original Mariposas, lives on in our girls.
This colorfully written novel, by Dominican American author, Junot Díaz, chronicles the life of Oscar De León, an overweight Dominican boy growing up in Paterson, New Jersey, who is obsessed with science fiction and fantasy novels and with falling in love, as well as the curse that has plagued his family for generations.
ISLAND BENEATH THE SEA
by Isabel Allende Born on the island of Saint-Domingue, Zarité--known as Tété--is the daughter of an African mother she never knew and one of the white sailors who brought her into bondage. Isabel Allende crafts the riveting story of one woman’s determination to find love amid loss, to offer humanity though her own has been so battered, and to forge her own identity in the cruelest of circumstances.
SONG OF THE WATER SAINTS
by Nelly Rosario This vibrant, provocative début novel explores the dreams and struggles of three generations of Dominican women. Graciela, born on the outskirts of Santo Domingo at the turn of the century, is a headstrong adventuress who comes of age during the U.S. occupation. Mercedes, abandoned by her mother, Graciela, at thirteen, turns to religion for solace and emigrates to New York with her husband and granddaughter, Leila. Leila inherits her great-grandmother Graciela’s passion-driven recklessness. But, caught as she is between cultures, her freedom arrives with its own set of obligations and dangers.
FARMING OF THE BONES
STORIES OF HISPANIOLA
by Edwidge Danticat Amabelle Desir, Haitian-born and a faithful maidservant to the Dominican family that took her in when she was orphaned, and her lover Sebastien, a sugarcane cutter, decide they will marry and return to Haiti at the end of the cane season. However, hostilities toward Haitian laborers find a vitriolic spokesman in the ultra-nationalist Generalissimo Trujillo who calls for an ethnic cleansing of his Spanish-speaking country. As rumors of Haitian persecution become fact, as anxiety turns to terror, Amabelle and Sebastien’s dreams are leveled to the most basic human desire: to endure.
FEAST OF THE GOAT
by Mario Vargas Llosa Haunted all her life by feelings of terror and emptiness, fortynine-year-old Urania Cabral returns to her native Dominican Republic - and finds herself reliving the events of 1961, when the capital was still called Trujillo City and one old man terrorized a nation of three million. Mario Vargas Llosa recounts the end of the depraved ailing dictator regime and the birth of a terrible democracy, giving voice to the historical Raphael Trujillo and the victims, both innocent and complicit, drawn into his deadly orbit.
WHY THE COCKS FIGHT
by Michelle Wucker Like two roosters in a fighting arena, Haiti and the Dominican Republic are encircled by barriers of geography and poverty. They co-inhabit the Caribbean island of Hispaniola, but their histories are as deeply divided as their cultures: one French-speaking and black, one Spanish-speaking and mulatto. Yet, despite their antagonism, the two countries share a national symbol in the rooster--and a fundamental activity and favorite sport in the cockfight. CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 71
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INTERNATIONAL EVENTS IN CABARETE
master of the ocean Master of the Ocean is an elite watersport event in which professional athletes from around the world compete in surfing, windsurfing, kiteboarding, and stand up paddle boarding. Athletes and teams must compete in all four categories, proving themselves “Masters of the Ocean.” This competition was founded by Marcus Bohm in 2002 and takes place at Encuentro and Cabarete beaches. Stay tuned for upcoming dates! maitai global MaiTai Global is a community of extraordinary entrepreneurs, innovators and athletes who gather together to push each other in life, business and sport while giving back to the environment. Each year they gather all over the world and will meet in Cabarete July 17 - 31, 2017. If you are a techie who loves the environment and kiteboarding, you should consider joining! dominican republic jazz festival November 1 - 5, 2017 the Dominican Republic Jazz Festival will celebrate its 21st year of bringing exceptional jazz musicians to Cabarete and other cities in the DR. The event is a free multi-day festival full of rhythm, flavor, and color where international and local musicians share the stage to bring many different genres of Jazz to its music lovers, local residents and tourists alike. If you enjoy jazz music, you can’t miss it! 74 | CABARETE GUIDE 2017
Photo by FeduJazz
Q&A COMMUNITY MEMBERS MAKING A DIFFERENCE: SUSI MAI FROM MAITAI GLOBAL Hometown:
Cabarete, Dominican Republic
WHAT DOES MAITAI GLOBAL BRING TO THE CABARETE COMMUNITY? I think the main consistent value that MaiTai has been able to provide since coming to Cabarete is bringing successful and high profile people who love sports to our community. I am very excited that some of our guests have made Cabarete into a regular vacation spot and have even purchased vacation homes there, helping the local economy grow. We have also lent support to local organizations in the past by way of donations. The most important thing, however, that MaiTai was able to bring to the community, is the return of the Kiteboarding Freestyle World championship last summer. I feel that we were able to give back to the community something that everyone loves and appreciates, and most importantly, we gave the opportunity to local riders to profile themselves once more on the world stage of kiteboarding. WHAT INSPIRES YOU TO SUPPORT OTHER COMMUNITY INITIATIVES? I believe that there are many issues and it takes many people with different ideas and approaches to solve things. I care deeply about every aspect and every problem in this town, which is why we have always tried to support a variety of different causes.
HOW CAN KITERS AND THE TECH COMMUNITY HELP MAKE A DIFFERENCE? I believe that anyone who visits Cabarete can leave a positive impact by supporting the community one way or another. One big thing I like to tell people is GET OUT of your hotel complexes. The country is friendly and not scary at all, despite what they tell you to keep you inside the confines of the all-inclusives. Getting out and adventuring will not only give you a better picture of the beautiful country you are visiting, but it also supports the local economy. Win win. WHAT ARE YOUR BIGGEST HOPES FOR CABARETE IN THE FUTURE? I believe that Cabarete is well on its way to establishing itself as the world’s watersports utopia. I hope to see the tourism continue to grow and mainly to see the positive impact watersports have on the lives of so many people in this area. I also strongly believe that at the next Olympics, we will have a Dominican rider bring home a medal. CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 75
BUSINESS DIRECTORY Mariposa Center for Girls
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Beach Club 809 571 4995 Bliss 809 571 9721 Cabarete Coffee Company 809 571 0919 Chez Arsenio 809 867 0801 Clorofila 829 993 5607 D’Hot Indian 809 628 1202 Fresh Fresh Cafe 809 571 2180 Gordito’s Fresh Mex 829 844 3434 Otra Cosa Restaurant 809 571 0607 La Casita de Papi 809 986 3750 Roma 809 571 9481 Serenade 809 571 0538 Yalla 809 571 9357 Yamazato 809 571 0814
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Location Millennium Resort & Spa Carretera Principal Cabarete
Hours Monday to Saturday: 10am – 8pm Sunday: 10am – 2pm
www.andarispa.com
Appointments +1 809-851-9399 skype: andarispa info@andarispa.com CABARETE GUIDE 2017 | 77
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