Waypoint: Leland, MI

Leelanau Peninsula Thanks to the shanty preservation work being done by the non-profit Fishtown Preservation Society (see the “Fishtown Rising” feature in our September 2021 issue on p. 38 to read more about the preservation work), visitors by land and by sea are able to continue enjoying Leland, Michigan’s charming and historic Fishtown village.

As you approach the harbor entrance to Leland by boat, you’ll see the outlines of North and South Manitou Islands offshore, and the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore to the south. Inside the breakwall, the full-service Leland Harbor municipal marina boasts a public boat launch and new boaters’ facilities, with Fishtown and greater Leland’s shopping, dining and beaches just a few steps away.

On each of our three Great Loops aboard our 52-foot trawler, we have made this harbor of refuge a must-stop. Long-term harbormaster Russell Dzuba, who tells me he is in the process of “gradually retiring,” will warmly welcome you. Don’t worry, the incoming harbormaster, Jeremy Anderson, is equally knowledgeable and welcoming. For slip reservations, just call 231-256-9132.

Get to know Leland Your first stop in Fishtown should be Carlson’s Fisheries, across the parking lot from the marina, which has fresh and smoked fish. My personal recommendation is its house-made smoked fish sausage — delicious! Down the Fishtown dock, the Village Cheese Shanty features homemade sandwiches on its special pretzel bread and over 75 domestic and imported cheeses. Just one block from the marina, the Leland Mercantile grocery store has local fish, meats, specialty cheeses and a great butcher shop. Pick up fresh produce at Leland Farmers Market on Thursday mornings in season.

If your larder needs wine, the surrounding Leelanau Peninsula boasts some of Michigan’s best wineries. If you have wheels you can take your own tour; if not, check out Verterra Winery’s tasting room on East River Street. Just across the parking lot from the marina, try Grand Traverse Distillery’s Old George Rye Whiskey or True North Cherry Vodka.

Where to stay and dine Falling Waters Lodge is perched on the edge of the dam’s spillway on the Leland River, where the rush of water will lull you to sleep. Just upriver, the Riverside Inn, opened in 1902, features four beautifully appointed river-view guest rooms and is my favorite local place for elegant dining; I like the pan-seared Maple Farms duck breast with parsnip puree.

Bluebird Restaurant & Tavern, operated by the Telgard family since 1927, boasts a riverfront dining room and outdoor patio, where you can order up the freshest walleye or whitefish. Just a few blocks up the hill from the harbor, you’ll find Leland Lodge, with casual pub fare and craft beer on tap at Bogey’s 19th Hole, a nod to the adjacent Leland Country Club golf course.

The Cove is in the heart of historic Fishtown,

right on the spillway; try a cup of its acclaimed seafood chowder. Downstairs is Rick’s Café riverside deck with mouth-watering burgers flipped on the outdoor grill. The adventurous might try its signature drink, the “Chubby Mary,” a Bloody Mary with a smoked chub garnish.

Around town While COVID curtailed group events during 2021, mark your calendars for 2022. The second Saturday in June will bring the Wine & Food Festival and Artwalk; July 3 is the annual Fourth of July Parade and fireworks, while every November on Black Friday they Light Up Leland for the holidays. Check LELANDMI.COM for updates.

Mark Morton, president of the Leland Chamber of Commerce, tells me, “For a small town we have lots to offer shoppers.”

For clothing and accessories, try Haystacks, which features locally sewn items; the Leland Beach Company for footwear; and Molly’s for Northern Michigan’s most beautiful sweaters. Harbor House Trading Company has outdoor apparel sure to please any mariner. On your way out, get the real scoop — Moomers Ice Cream on top of a cone, that is. Diversions Leland offers hundreds of caps and hats, while Tug Stuff’s merchandise is adorned with Leland’s unofficial logo, an iconic old-fashioned fishing tug, a nod to Fishtown’s two beloved tugs: Janice Sue and Joy. At The Lake features must-have merchandise for the beach, boat and cottage.

If art is your passion, try Two Fish Gallery with local artists’ works and made-in-Michigan products, Tampico for sterling silver jewelry or Main Street Gallery. At Nature Gems Loft, I picked up a one-of-a-kind sterling pendant made from a Petoskey stone, Michigan’s official state stone. Nearby, Leelanau Historical Society operates the seasonal museum, which highlights the area’s major shipwrecks, as well as Anishinaabek and Odawa baskets and quillwork on birchbark.

Day excursions Weather permitting, the Mishe-Mokwa ferry makes day trips to South Manitou Island from Leland’s harbor for lighthouse tours. Stay longer for hiking and camping on North or South Manitou Islands, part of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore — just pick up your permit in Fishtown or the islands’ ranger stations. Private watercraft can access the islands, though docking is limited. North Manitou is a Wilderness Area. And on South Manitou, check out the visitor’s center and museum, take the historical farm tour through abandoned homesteads, climb the lighthouse, or take a wagon tour of giant cedar trees. If you’re short on time, you can enjoy the ferry’s evening scenic shoreline cruise.

For more outdoor activity, hike one of the trails near Leland. The Whaleback Natural Area has challenging hiking, while Houdek Dunes Natural Area features moderately difficult trails for hiking or winter snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. And any day in season, weather permitting, you can catch one of the charter boats lining the mouth of the Leland River for exciting Lake Michigan fishing.

The Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore just south of town is an excellent day excursion, with miles of sand beach and 450-foot bluffs towering over the shoreline. Ojibwe legend explains how Manitou Islands and Sleeping Bear Dunes were formed. Long ago, Mishe Mokwa, the mother bear, and her two cubs swam across Lake Michigan from the now Wisconsin shore to escape a great forest fire. The two cubs struggled to cross behind their mother, but the waves overtook them. Gitchi Manitou (Great Spirit) was so moved that he transformed them into North and South Manitou Island. The mother bear is forever waiting on the beach for her cubs to reach the shore — and the sand of Sleeping Bear Dunes has gently blanketed her watchful form.

With all there is to do and see in Fishtown and Leland, your journey here will certainly have a happy ending. ★