TRIP PLANNER: MUKILTEO + WHIDBEY ISLAND PG. 78
Native Arts Evolution
Waterfalls + Harbor Towns
Huckleberry Heaven
Plunge
SUMMER SWIMMING HOLES
TA K E T H E
Escape to the Last Frontier:
SEWARD, ALASKA
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WASHINGTON
August | September
volume 26
Sweet & Secret Swimming Holes 50
1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2021
Swimmers can leap from a rope swing into The Cove at Fisk State Park. (photo: Visit Spokane)
STEP INTO THE TREASURED WATERS OF LOCAL SWIMMING HOLES, HIDDEN ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF QUAINT DESTINATIONS written by Kelsey Swenson
Every summer, water brings people together to wade, leap and swim into riverside coves, desert oases and mountain lakes. Plunging into cool, clear natural waters makes experiencing wilderness that much more, well, immersive. That’s why most treasured swimming holes are well-kept secrets. We’re revealing some of the best gems here, to share with those who will tread lightly and splash joyfully.
PATEROS
Alta Lake On the margins of the vast Eastern Oregon desert, the Methow and Columbia Rivers converge in the small city of Pateros. Just 2 miles away, Alta Lake State Park sits at a higher elevation in a valley between rising stone cliffs where the Cascades begin. Pateros native and City Administrator Jord Wilson said people flock from around the state to swim and camp at Alta Lake, minutes from the eateries along the streets of downtown Pateros. Since the park was founded in 1951, desert dwellers from lower altitudes have sought solace at the lake they’ve deemed their beloved swimming hole, making it a tradition to take a dip on hot days when the mountains call, and watch late-night movie screenings on the beach. After a day on the lake, Kodi’s Noon Saloon cooks up a killer burger, and Sweet River Bakery serves legendary cinnamon rolls and handcrafted lunch or dinner on the patio with live music under the lights. If you’re there August 20 through 22, the low-key vibe jumps a notch with hydroplane races down the river. AT LEFT Alta Lake is minutes away from the small city of Pateros. (photo: Washington State Parks)
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Photos: TreeHouse Point
lodging
ABOVE Upper Pond Treehouse, overlooking the tranquil pond, is surprisingly spacious. AT RIGHT Temple of the Blue Moon was TreeHouse Point’s first treehouse, inspired by the Parthenon’s classic lines.
Lodging
TreeHouse Point written by Cara Strickland HAVE YOU EVER wanted to spend a night in a treehouse? Not quite camping, but more adventurous than a hotel? If so, TreeHouse Point is the spot to indulge your fantasy, and just about a half-hour drive from Seattle. Pete Nelson of the Animal Planet show Treehouse Masters created this alternative lodging experience in 2006, and it has become a destination for those seeking a retreat from the fast lane, a romantic interlude or a base for an adventurous vacation. Treat yourself to a view of Snoqualmie Falls 7 miles away. The falls are 268 feet high, higher than Niagara Falls. The viewing platform is close to the parking lot and wheelchair friendly. In warmer months, float the Snoqualmie River beginning in Fall City, where you can visit Snofalls Lavender Farm, or head to Tiger Mountain to do some paragliding from Poo Poo Point. 6922 PRESTON FALL CITY ROAD ISSAQUAH www.treehousepoint.com
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lodging
ACCOMMODATIONS Choose from seven treehouses—each offers a different experience. They range from the two-story Trillium, 16 feet in the air and with walls of windows, to the ADAcompliant Ananda with fir floors and a private deck, and the Upper Pond treehouse, which looks as if it emerged from the pages of a fairy tale. Some treehouses share access to three full bathrooms, but a few have their own toilets and sinks. Each is stocked with bottled water and an electric kettle, with toiletries and hair dryers in the shared bathrooms. If you want to experience the treehouse vibe but you’d like to rough it slightly less, consider the guest room in the lodge. Children over the age of 13 are welcome, but furry friends of all kinds are not.
AMENITIES In the lodge, you’ll find fresh, complimentary breakfast every morning and cookies and hot beverages every afternoon. Keep it unplugged with their board games, books and puzzles, but know you can also take advantage of the wi-fi by the fireplace. With no restaurant, plan to bring snacks and explore dining options including pizza, brewpubs and Thai eateries in Issaquah, Fall City, Snoqualmie, North Bend and Carnation, all within a fiveto twenty-minute drive.
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Joel Krahn
northwest destination
ABOVE Magnificent glacially carved peaks tower over historic Seward, off a fjord on the Kenai Peninsula.
On the Verge of Untouched Wilderness
Seward and Anchorage hold the secrets of America’s Last Frontier
84 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE
And before they’re gone forever, hike a glacier. In the Kenai Fjords National Park, a stunningly beautiful 8-mile out-and-back on the Harding Icefield Trail is a strenuous, but gorgeous, window into time and wildlife. The abundance of salmonberries along the trail make it a favorite for black bears. Take bear spray as a precaution or go with a professional on ranger-led hikes. Of course, this may be your only lifetime opportunity to get up close to the largest mammals on Earth, so plan to take a morning whale watching cruise from Seward and out into Resurrection Bay. There are many to choose from and different lengths of time. Take the train along the scenic Turnagain Arm from Seward to Anchorage, and view the towering Chugach Mountains, glaciers, waterfalls and occasional beluga whales. Book the upper level, glassed-in GoldStar cars with 360-degree views, outdoor viewing deck and, mercifully, a bar. Once in Anchorage, Alaska’s largest city, take the half-day city tour to learn about the culture and commerce from an insider. Snack on reindeer sausage and wild smoked salmon. Stay the night at the beautiful Historic Anchorage Hotel. Wander out to Simon & Seafort’s Saloon and Grill for fresh local seafood or great steaks—all with sweeping views of Cook Inlet and Mount Susitna and the Alaska Range. Kick back with a Moscow mule and appreciate the stunning beauty of Alaska and the irony of Russia’s propaganda and bribes.
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2021
Joel Krahn
ALASKA IS enormous and intimidating, but focus on Seward, one of its smaller and finest towns, and you’ll have the quintessential experience of the Last Frontier, tucked into an inlet on the Kenai Peninsula. Without Seward’s namesake, William Henry Seward, Alaska might still be in Russia’s possession. Seward, the secretary of state under Abraham Lincoln and Andrew Johnson, in March 1867 negotiated the price of two cents per acre for a total of $7.2 million. Legend has it that $7 million was for Alaska and $200,000 was to repay Seward’s Russian counterpart for his bribes of American journalists and politicians to facilitate the objectionable deal. From Seattle, cruise lines (Norwegian, Royal Caribbean and Princess) will get you there if you’re wanting the full experience. If you’d like to go more direct, take Alaska Airlines to Anchorage and a train the 127 miles south to Seward. Caines Head Trail is a hearty 14 miles out and back with 4,800 elevation gain, but like many things in Alaska, requires some additional planning. You’ll have to get the local tide chart to successfully navigate the 3-mile section between Tosina Point and North Beach. It’s possible for fit people to do an out and back in one day. If you’re lucky, you will see humpback whales in Resurrection Bay below. Alaska’s cuisine is salmon, halibut and oysters. The Cookery & Oyster Bar in Seward does this nicely and with a good wine list. For breakfast, hit Ms. Gene’s Place, for the frittata or fisherman’s scramble with reindeer sausage.
Joel Krahn
written by Kate Sullivan
SEWARD + ANCHORAGE, ALASKA
northwest destination
EAT The Cookery & Oyster Bar www.cookeryseward.com Ms. Gene’s Place www.facebook.com/ msgenesplaceseward Simon & Seafort’s Saloon and Grill www.simonandseaforts.com
STAY Cabin on a Cliff www.acabinonthecliff.com The Historic Anchorage Hotel www.historicanchoragehotel.com Hotel Seward www.hotelsewardalaska.com Kenai Fjords Wilderness Lodge www.alaskacollection.com/lodging/ kenai-fjords-wilderness-lodge
PLAY Alaska SeaLife Center www.alaskasealife.org
Joel Krahn
Roy Neese/Visit Anchorage
Kenai Fjords National Park www.nps.gov/kefj/index.htm
Roy Neese/Visit Anchorage
CENTER, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Kayakers in the Bear Glacier Lagoon glide past dramatic iceberg peaks. The Anchorage skyline set against the Chugach Mountains, the site of some of the most accessible adventures in Alaska. The Cookery and Oyster Bar serves fresh produce from Kenai Peninsula and oysters from the bay in an inviting, old saloon. Orcas are a common sight on Alaskan shores. The Harding Icefield Trail climbs high above the valley floor to a 700-square-foot field of ice.
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