E AT & D R I N K
REVIEW
Pink Steak
2777 S. Dixie Highway, West Palm Beach; 561/557-9083
S Clockwise from bottom, tuna cones, shrimp tempura rolls, and hamachi crudo
IF YOU GO PARKING: Valet and parking lot HOURS: Monday – Thursday: 4 – 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday: 4 – 11 p.m.; Sunday brunch: 11 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.; Sunday dinner: 4 – 9:30 p.m. PRICES: $16 –$168 WEBSITE: pinksteak.com
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outh Florida is the land of strip malls, so it shouldn’t have surprised me that Pink Steak was tucked into one. However, owner/chef Julien Gremaud did a standout job with its curb appeal. A bubblegum-pink lattice trimmed with flowering vines drew us in, while the emerald-green carpet lined with fiery torches and metallic lanterns ignited the glamorous allure that awaited us inside. As our eyes adjusted to the dimly lit room, we took in the pink-hued space accented with tropical murals, plush avocado-green booths, plume-like chandeliers, striking wood and marble details, a towering giraffe, and plenty of flamingoes. The whimsical design is undoubtedly a vibe, but I wondered if the food would live up to the buzzy hype. When it opened in December, it was touted as the new“it”place to see and be seen. Pink Steak is the third concept in Gremaud’s Palm Beach portfolio, which also includes Avocado Grill and Avocado Cantina, and it’s helmed by Executive Chef Aaron Black (formally of PB Catch). As I reviewed the menu, something surprised me immediately. No, it wasn’t the sushi. (But yes, there’s sushi at this steakhouse.) It was the assortment of intriguing appetizers. I almost felt like I could happily curate a meal with its above-the-fold selections. Before the meat lovers come for me, it’s a steakhouse with plenty of choice cuts and classic chophouse dishes like the Caesar salad, shrimp cocktail and creamed spinach, but there are other noteworthy options as well. We started with the Pink Steak Roll ($32), Tuna Cones ($22), Beef Tartare ($23) and Hamachi Crudo
($24). At first, it seemed excessive, but the portions were far from the Cheesecake Factory’s. We savored each dish without feeling like we had to be rolled out after we had also ingested the steak, wine and dessert. The shrimp tempura rolls topped with salmon, hamachi, tuna and onyx caviar pearls swam in a delicate yuzu-soy broth that surprised me when it arrived but was deliciously citrusy, with hints of cilantro. It evoked a refreshing ceviche. The paper-thin crudo was served with a tableside pour of creamy tom kha sauce and a mélange of mushrooms, onions, cilantro and peanuts that gave each slice a nice crunchy texture. The petite cones, stuffed with tuna in a tart ponzu with avocado and topped with caviar, were straightforward and enjoyable. Among apps, the tartare stood out because of its uniqueness. A perfectly crispy potato rosti, which reminded me of browned hashbrowns or fried latkes, supports the hand-cut filet mignon that’s layered with crunchy fennel (a wonderful surprise) and topped with Parmesan cheese and a dash of truffles. It was a beautifully balanced dish with interesting textures and layers. I appreciated the sharp, sleek steak knife as I cut into the Wagyu hanger steak ($55) that was pink and moist inside with a nice, charred coffee rub exterior. There’s always room for dessert, so we dove into the Chocolate Fondant Cake ($14), an elevated and indulgent brownie à la mode with a macadamia nut crumble and vanilla ice cream and drizzled with salted caramel. So, did Pink Steak live up to the hype? Absolutely.
AARON BRISTOL
Written by CHRISTIE GALEANO-DEMOTT
bocamag.com • • • • September/October 2024
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