REVIEW
AARON BRISTOL
E AT & D R I N K
Campi Italian
233 N.E. Second Ave., Delray Beach; 561/576-8366 Written by CHRISTIE GALEANO-DEMOTT
Above top: rigatoni alla vodka; above bottom: short rib agnolotti; right: salmon with baby spinach and lemon; bottom right: bombolini
IF YOU GO PARKING: Valet and street parking HOURS: Sunday – Wednesday, 5 – 9 p.m., Thursday – Saturday, 5 – 10 p.m. PRICES: $16 – $76 WEBSITE: campidelray.com
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fter Ember Grill at The Ray hotel quietly closed last year, I wondered what concept would replace it. Well, restaurateur Curt Huegel took over the space with Campi Italian, a warm and welcoming trattoria. If his name sounds familiar, Huegel also brought us Avalon Steak & Seafood and Lulu’s Café & Cocktails. Campi Executive Chef Greg Rubin opened Avalon in 2021 and now serves us his take on Italian cuisine. Campi’s design is reminiscent of the former tenant, most noticeably in its still-swanky bar and plush rattan booths. New rectangular glass chandeliers illuminate the space, and crisp white tablecloths adorn the tables. Windows are now dressed in thick ivory drapes, and the once-open kitchen is partially hidden behind them. Before ordering, our server surprised us with a petite plate
of antipasti, complete with slices of salami, Parmesan cubes and a variety of olives. Pressing on, we ordered the octopus ($26) and polpette (meatball; $18). While waiting for the appetizers, I sipped on my wine, secretly wishing there had been more Italian wines by the glass. Italy offers such stellar grape varietals. The dishes arrived, snapping me out of my reverie. The beautifully plated octopus sat on a vinaigrette-infused panzanella salad of onions, tomatoes and bread, and was plump and tender. Drenched in a sweet marinara sauce, the meatball was well seasoned and topped with dollops of creamy ricotta. My favorite part was taking the rustic bread and dipping it into the ricotta and tomato sauce. Each course arrived on lovely, colorful dishes. The perfectly al dente
agnolotti ($31) was stuffed with tender short rib, and the horseradish didn’t add much spice but contributed a layer of interesting flavor. The menu said the dish came with a red wine sugo or tomato sauce, but it was almost nonexistent on our dish. The rigatoni alla vodka ($28), on the other hand, featured plenty of sauce whose heat balanced wonderfully with the creamy stracciatella and the crunchy guanciale. Campi exudes a warm, relaxing ambiance that’s perfect for an aperitivo. It excels in its pasta, and I can’t wait to return to try even more.
bocamag.com • • • • November/December 2024
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10/7/24 3:57 PM