I
f there’s one dish that exemplifies the mission of the Mexican restaurant Maria Maria, it’s the humble tostada. It’s named Maria’s Tostada after the grandmother who inspired the authentic cuisine served at this homey Tallahassee restaurant. “It’s the only item with her name on it,” said Edgar Gamez, co-owner of Maria Maria. “It is the item that started our story. It’s the item that inspired who we are and what we’re doing. To us, this tostada means the world.” It’s an inspiring story. Gamez’s grandmother, Maria, would make tostadas to support her five children in the small Mexican town of La Yerbabuena, located in the state of Michoacán. “My grandmother would make her tortillas by hand and lay them in the sun,” Gamez said. “By the time the sun went down, the tortillas were nice and crispy.” As schoolchildren, his mother and her sisters would skip recess to lend a hand. “They went to a school next door run by nuns,” Gamez said. “They would run home and help my grandmother prep for the tostadas.” By 5 or 6 p.m., Gamez’s mother, grandmother, aunts and uncles carried tables and chairs to the plaza to sell the tostadas at night. “The story of my grandmother always touches my heart,” Gamez said. “How strong she was, how much effort she put into making sure her family was OK.” Her dedication is reflected in the hard-working staff at Maria Maria, named after both Gamez’s mother and grandmother. While there is an abundance of chain Mexican restaurants, Maria Maria has built a reputation for serving family recipes. In reviews, some diners call it “the real deal.” The restaurant is run by Gamez, his sisters Miriam and Veronica, his nephew, Jaime Raya, and Tod Sullivan, the only non-family member of the team. Customers order at the counter and food is brought to the table. The restaurant is casual but welcoming with brick walls and wood tables spruced up with some colorful decorations. Meals are synchronized so plates are not left to languish under a heat lamp. If one dish needs more time, a server will bring out the others. Maria Maria impresses at the start, when baskets of warm chips arrive, served with a piquant, housemade salsa and cheese dip, an unexpected delight. Gamez said he experimented with this dip until it had the right consistency and taste. It’s addictive. Maria Maria pays attention to details. Flavors and aromas are distinctive. The mole sauce, for instance, involves a long, complex process with about 20 ingredients. The tamale is made the traditional way, with a corn dough filling steamed inside a corn husk. Most items offer a choice of protein (generally, carnitas or shredded pork, chorizo, beef, chicken or beans, sometimes brisket) or vegetables. The restaurant has an extensive menu with small bites as well as entrees. While there’s not a designated breakfast time, customers can order items such as huevos rancheros and chilaquiles (eggs and salsa with tortillas, beans and rice).
Maria Maria, named for Edgar Gamez’s mother and grandmother, is a family affair, including (above) Gamez, his nephew Jaime Raya and sister Miriam.
Spring 2024
INFLUENCE
|
27