Langkawi

of Chinese, Malay, Indian and Eurasian origin. All are exquisite. Mine had lime shutters, hardwood floors, a massive bathtub and several day beds for relaxation. As I entered my suite a white cat greeted me, and for the duration of my stay, followed me from room to room.

Several months earlier I’d been in Pondicherry, India. My most lasting memory was of a dog who followed close behind me for several hours as I went in search of food for him. I didn’t know what else to do. But this time, I’d researched beforehand to find an outstanding example of responsible tourism, and this was it. The resort promotes the adaptive reuse of Malaysia’s architectural heritage and uses the profits to support a shelter for neglected, abused and abandoned cats and dogs. Tourism can be

Langkawi

GETTING T h E r E a positive force and a stay here allows you to feel that you have made a worthy contribution.

On my last day there, my taxi driver, Duns, met me before we were to embark on the drive to the port town of Kuah, to catch the ferry to the mainland. He asked if I could reconsider my travel plans and stay for just one more day so that I could be a guest at his daughter’s wedding. He had been preparing for the festivities all week. He handed me a wedding invitation that had his address. Next time you visit he said, please come and meet my family. As I left Malaysia behind on the express train bound for Bangkok, I reflected on the warmth of my stay. Langkawi is a beautiful, safe, clean, inexpensive and welcoming destination and yes, I do miss that cat!

The Datai was Langkawi’s first luxury hotel and a naturalist’s paradise with a multitude of birds including kingfishers and hornbills, lizards, flying squirrels and tarantulas.

Main Image: Bon Ton Resort

Left to Right: Temple Tree poolside

Beras Basah Island

Beras Basah Island

Sunset Beach Resort

Macaque monkeys

Island hopping a 30-minute walk to the beach, shops and restaurants. Email: info@templetree.com.my; website: www.templetree.com.my

Malaysia

Lumpur from Australia. You can also access Langkawi by ferry from Penang or the mainland. Trains run from Kuala Lumpur and Butterworth, stopping at Alor Star. wh E r E TO EAT

There are numerous restaurants along the main road of Pantia Tengah. The night markets are great fun and allow you to experience the variety of Malay cuisine. At the restaurant at Bon Ton, owner Narelle McMurtrie and her staff cook up a Malay feast that should not be missed, with a host who explains the details of each dish.

AccO mm O dATION

Of the luxury high-end resorts I visited three, the Datai, Andaman and Tanjung Rhu. All are large, quite formal and secluded with beautiful beaches. The Datai offers accommodation in rooms or villas. Email: Datai@ghmhotels.com; website: www.ghmhotels.com The Andaman next door shares the same lush rainforest setting and spectacular private beach. For nature buffs the hotel offers many activities including rainforest walks. Email: Andaman@ theandaman.com; website: www.luxurycollection.com Tanjung Rhu Resort has a lovely 2km long beach. Email: resort@tanjungrhu.com.my; website: www.tanjungrhu.com.my

Set on the grounds of a coconut plantation, both Bon Ton and Temple Tree are charming, relaxed and intimate, more suited to those who appreciate exquisite taste and historic architecture over service, since guests are left largely on their own with a breakfast hamper delivered the night before, perfect for those in search of peace and privacy. It has a setting overlooking bird-filled wetlands beyond the infinity pools that makes up for lack of a beach. Bon Ton’s airy Malay Kampung villas have wide verandahs for you to enjoy tea and coconut cake. Email: info@bontonresort.com.my; website: www.bontonresort.com.my Temple Tree next door comprises 8 historic mansions of Chinese, Malay, Indian and Eurasian origin that are full of character. My suite, the turquoise and lime green Penang House, was beautifully furnished and huge with several rooms that I shared with the resident cat. It is

Guests can visit the clinic and walk the dogs. More information on the animal shelter that cares for neglected, abused and abandoned dogs and cats can be found at info@ langkawilassie.org.au; website: www.langkawilassie.org.au

A favourable exchange rate translates to Malaysia being a bargain destination. There are many clean, great value guesthouses in Pantai Tengah. I stayed at the Sunset Beach Resort, managed by two friendly Malay women. Rooms are comfortable with a path leading along a lush garden to the restaurant and beach. Email: sunset@sungrouplangkawi.com; website: www.sungrouplangkawi.com

G ETTING A r OUN d

There is an absence of public transport on Langkawi, though mini vans do offer transport. Taxis are very inexpensive and my driver Dans was obliging, punctual and courteous. I paid around $25 for the 3 hour island trip and $6 for the airport transfer. Dans may be contacted on 0124769987.

TIPS

English is widely spoken. Water is safe to drink. Rates of exchange are less favourable here than in Kuala Lumpur. Do not carry food when hiking in rainforests.

INFO rmATION

Australian passport holders do not need a visa to enter Malaysia for a visit of up to three months, provided their passports are valid for at least six months on arrival and they have a return or onward ticket to another international destination. For citizens of India, Sri Lanka, Pakistan and Afghanistan, a visa from the High Commission of Malaysia in Canberra is required. Tourism Malaysia has many brochures and is at Level 2, 171 Clarence Street, Sydney Phone: 02-9299 4441 Email: malaysia@malaysiatourism.com.au Website: www. tourismmalaysia.com.au

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