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LU X U RY T R AV E L M AG . C O M . AU

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OUR ALL-NEW BUSINESS CLASS

THE ARIA SUITE WHERE ARTISTRY TAKES FLIGHT

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Where time slows and luxury begins.

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CONTENTS 12 14 17

Publisher’s Note Editor’s Note Contributors this Issue

Where in the World Spotlight on an inspiring location

In the Know Latest travel happenings from around the world

Luxury Travel Products Beautiful items to take on your travels

Dispatches A collection of authentic experiences, outstanding design and sustainable travel initiatives

Online Spotlight What’s trending on luxurytravelmag.com.au

High Flyer A review of Cathay Pacific’s luxe Aria Suites, from Hong Kong to Sydney

The Last Quiet Places on Earth Our cover story transports you to the world’s quietest corners, drawing travellers who crave stillness, solitude and a meaningful shift

65 explore

MEMORABLE JOURNEYS FOR THE CURIOUS MODERN TRAVELLER 66

Frozen Frontier A voyage from Hobart to East Antarctica retraces Douglas Mawson’s polar legacy, where wild weather, sea ice and rare wildlife shape every mile

Living the Dream In New York State, the Hudson Valley offers a bucolic antidote to the relentless hustle of the Big Apple

The Silk Road in the Snow In winter, Uzbekistan’s Silk Road cities take on a quieter magic, from the snow-dusted domes of Samarkand to the high mountain air of Amirsoy

Voyage of the Soul A week-long journey through Indonesia’s remote Banda Islands aboard traditional phinisi yacht, Silolona

City Guide: Hong Kong Where to eat, stay and play in this vibrant Chinese city

A Nation Forged by Nature A photo essay of Iceland by Assouline

Pause A peaceful photo interlude

ABOVE, LEFT Taking in the Banda Islands from the deck of Silolona ABOVE, RIGHT Antarctic wildlife © Bella Falk L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U | 9

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CONTENTS 109 linger

BEAUTIFUL PLACES TO DWELL FOR THE DESIGN DILETTANTE 110

A Sense of Scale Sprawling corner suites and deeply personalised service redefine luxe living in London

116

Short Stay: La Scoglio An Italian-inspired farmhouse in Byron Bay’s hinterland proves perfect for switching off

122

The King’s Coast Far from Morocco’s better-known draws, Tamuda Bay delivers a more discreet kind of luxury

130

The Hotel that Built Nashville At The Hermitage Hotel, Tennessee politics, Southern glamour and music history converge

136

All in the Family Vomo Island Fiji makes multigenerational luxury holidays effortless

142

Suite Life The Peninsula Beijing sets the bar high for upscale stays in the Chinese capital

146

Suite Life Hotel Balzac Paris comes with stories, and style, to spare

150

Suite Life In Sydney, 25hours Hotel The Olympia unites design whimsy with stellar dining

154

Design Bite Spotlight on Mexico’s One&Only Mandarina, leading the brand’s charge into private villas

157 savour

A MENU OF INDULGENT GOURMET & WELLNESS EXPERIENCES 158

The Noma Effect The restaurant that changed the face of Nordic dining, Noma is now just one part of Copenhagen’s wider gastronomic pull

166

Where Flavours Take Flight In eastern Belize, ancient cacao traditions, Garifuna cooking, and Creole and Mestizo dishes reveal a layered culinary identity

174

Go Your Own Way Cruising on Bhaya Soul showcases one of Vietnam’s busiest tourist waterways in a new light

182

Croatia Uncorked From Istria to Hvar, Croatia’s food and wine culture is finding new international recognition

ABOVE, TOP Exploring the Moroccan city of Tangier

188

Rendez-vous A beautiful place to gather and dine

ABOVE, MIDDLE Sea views from Vomo Island in Fiji © Rob Rickman

190

Natural Selection A Q&A with chef Alex Pritchard of new Sara Dining on NSW’s South Coast

ABOVE, BOTTOM Noma changed the face of dining in Copenhagen L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U | 1 1

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE “I personally love reading stories that make you think, and inspire you to visit less obvious and lesser-travelled destinations. This is at the very heart of what Luxury Travel is all about.”

s Publisher Kavita Lala

hile this issue celebrates the rise of slow, remote and nature-led travel, I went in a completely different direction recently and headed to one of the world’s greatest cities, and my former home: Singapore. I was there for the annual International Luxury Travel Market Asia Pacific, where I had the pleasure of connecting with industry colleagues while getting the scoop on the latest luxury travel brands directly from their representatives. What I learned only reinforced what our cover story explores so elegantly: more isn’t always better – unless, of course, you’re talking about nature or time. Increasingly, discerning travellers are seeking the opposite: less noise, lighter itineraries and fewer crowds. It’s a shift I’m wholeheartedly embracing. I personally love reading stories that make you think, and inspire you to visit less obvious and lesser-travelled

destinations. This is at the very heart of what Luxury Travel is all about, and our increasing readership and the wonderful feedback we receive tells us it’s resonating with those who matter most: you, our valued readers. Thank you for continuing to support us as Indesign Media passes the four-year mark as the stewards of this beautiful travel title. If you haven’t yet explored our digitalexclusive features, now’s the time to visit luxurytravelmag.com.au to experience the full breadth of our editorial content. To stay in the loop with destination features, hotel openings, insider tips and curated travel ideas, be sure to sign up for our weekly newsletter. You’ll also find us on Instagram (@luxurytravel_mag), Facebook (@luxurytravelmagazine), LinkedIn (/luxury-travel-magazine), and Pinterest (@luxurytravelau). Yours in peace and quiet, KAVITA LALA PUBLISHER

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Where Adventure Meets Elegance A Luxury River Cruise through Vietnam, Cambodia & the Mekong

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EDITOR’S NOTE “Well-heeled travellers are increasingly seeking destinations that are unencumbered by crowds... places where nature is the draw and peace and quiet are guaranteed.”

T Editor Madelin Tomelty in Busan, South Korea

he older I get and the busier my life becomes, the more I am drawn to quiet holidays. Remote? Tick. Surrounded by nature? Yes, please. Fewer tourists? I’m in. I will jump at the opportunity to check in to an isolated rainforest retreat in Ubud, or a lovely lonesome lodge in New Zealand’s Southern Alps. I’m certainly less motivated by big-city trips than I was a few years ago. Turns out I’m not alone. The 2026 Virtuoso Luxe Report found that wellheeled travellers are increasingly seeking destinations that are unencumbered by crowds. It highlighted increased interest in places where nature is the draw, and peace and quiet are guaranteed – like Greenland’s serene fjords, Iceland’s volcanic scenery and our own vast outback. At the same time, travellers are choosing more boutique lodgings and smaller tour groups and, once they arrive, are staying put for longer. This is the sentiment of this issue’s cover story, The Last Quiet Places on Earth, where travel writer Kate Symons asks, “In a culture defined by saturation, has silence become the greatest luxury of all?” This issue invites you to explore the idea further – in places like Indonesia’s Banda Islands, which

we navigate from aboard a traditional phinisi yacht. And Antarctica’s vast ice fields, from the new luxury expedition ship, Douglas Mawson. We discover it’s possible to experience tranquility and awe on one of the world’s busiest waterways, Vietnam’s Ha Long Bay, and see another side to under-the-radar Uzbekistan, when the streets are blanketed in snow and the landscape takes on an ethereal glow. There’s also a quiet weekender in the Byron Bay hinterland, a slow-motion food-and-wine journey through Croatia, and a leisurely jaunt through New York’s bucolic Hudson Valley, with its promise of laidback, country living – eateries, galleries and all. With upscale hotel stays from Fiji to Nashville, Morocco to Beijing, as well as journeys through Copenhagen and Belize, this is an issue bursting at the seams with luxury holiday ideas from across the globe. I loved pulling it together, and hope it inspires you to pause and find your own quiet place – no matter where you are or what’s going on in your corner of the world. MADELIN TOMELTY EDITOR

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The Treasures of the Mediterranean Uncover the Mediterranean’s timeless charms on a truly all-inclusive Scenic Eclipse cruise, from Capri’s glamorous boutiques and breathtaking scenery, to Taormina’s 2,000-year-old Greek Theatre and Lisbon’s flavours. Savour exquisite cuisine, be immersed in culture and rejuvenate in ultra-luxury. 12 Days | 5 May 2027 | Civitavecchia (Rome) > Lisbon Scenic Eclipse voyage from $21,810pp*

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Luxury Travel Team

Indesign Media Executive Team

Publisher Kavita Lala kavita@luxurytravelmag.com.au

CEO Raj Nandan raj@indesign.com.au

Editor Madelin Tomelty madelin@luxurytravelmag.com.au

Group Operations Manager Sheree Bryant sheree@indesign.com.au

Creative Director Sylvia Weimer sylvia@spacelabdesign.com

Online Manager Radu Enache radu@indesign.com.au

Brand + Partnerships Manager Dan Kinsela dan@luxurytravelmag.com.au

Head Office 98 Holdsworth Street, Woollahra NSW 2025

Assistant Editor + Sub Editor Natasha Dragun

luxurytravelmag.com.au

Head of Production Anna Carmody anna@indesign.com.au

We acknowledge the Traditional Owners of the land on which we live and work and recognise their continued custodianship and connection to the land, waters and community. We pay our respects to them and their Elders past, present and emerging.

Production Coordinator Charlotte Yap production@luxurytravelmag.com.au General Enquiries media@luxurytravelmag.com.au Contributors Luke Abrahams, Natasha Bazika, Claire Boobbyer, Robin Catalano, Chris Dwyer, Bella Falk, Susan Gough Henly, Jenny Hewett, Devanshi Mody, Jocelyn Pride, Sheriden Rhodes, Rachel Shue, Susan Skelly, Kate Symons, Michelle Tchea, Sarah Vercoe, Sue Wallace, Amanda Woods Events Coordinator Roisin Fagan roisin@indesign.com.au Accounts Vivia Felice vivia@indesign.com.au

Acknowledgement of Country

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Printed in Singapore. Luxury Travel is printed on paper that meets both PEFC and FSC certifications, sourced from sustainable and responsibly managed forests, and ISO 14001 Environmental standards.

Cover image

Floating spa at Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort, Canada © Jeremy Koreski

Printed in Singapore. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, transmitted in any form or by any other means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in thi publication, the publishers assume no responsibility for errors or omissions or any consequences of reliance on this publication. The opinions expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the views of the editor, the publisher or the publication. Contributions are submitted at the sender’s risk, and Indesign Media Asia Pacific cannot accept any loss or damag . Please retain duplicates of text and images. Luxury Travel Magazine is a wholly owned Australian publication, which is designed and published in Australia. Luxury Travel Magazine is published quarterly and is available through subscription, at major newsagencies and bookshops throughout Australia. This issue of Luxury Travel Magazine may contain offers or surveys which may require you to provid information about yourself. If you provide such information to us we may use the information to provide you with products or services we have. We may also provide this information to parties who provide the products or services on our behalf (such as fulfilment organisations). e do not sell your information to third parties under any circumstances, however, these parties may retain the information we provide for future activities of their own, including direct marketing. We may retain your information and use it to inform you of other promotions and publications from time to time. If you would like to know what information Indesign Media Asia Pacific holds about you please contact Nilesh Nandan (61 2) 9368 015 , (61 2) 9368 0289 (fax), info@indesign.com.au. Luxury Travel Magazine magazine is published under licence by Indesign Media Asia Pacific. ISSN 1836-055

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LU X U RY T R AV E L L E R

CONTRIBUTORS Some of the talented writers whose inspiring stories feature in this issue

NATASHA BAZIKA

ROBIN CATALANO

MICHELLE TCHEA

NATASHA DRAGUN

With a culinary resume that features over 100 Michelinstarred dining experiences, Natasha Bazika is just as at home diving into a complex chef’s table menu as she is conquering an alpine mountain. In this issue, she boards Ha Long Bay’s first dedicated wellness cruise, Bhaya Soul, and learns that true luxury is having space in one of the world’s most visited destinations (p174).

Robin Catalano is a multiaward-winning travel journalist based in the Hudson Valley of New York. A New Englander by birth and an honorary Spaniard by marriage, she specialises in conservation, soft adventure, food and beverage, human culture and hidden history. She reveals the unique – and delicious – culinary identity of Belize in this edition (p166).

Five-time bestselling author Michelle Tchea started her career as a physical chemist tinkering in R&D before diving into the world of F&B. An expert in fine-dining (someone’s got to do it), she still believes bread should be complimentary and served warm, of course. Michelle spotlights the new generation of chefs building on Noma’s legacy in Copenhagen (p159).

The former managing editor of MiNDFOOD and DestinAsian magazines, Natasha spent nine years living and working in China and Indonesia before returning to Australia. While she still has a passion for the glamorous skyrise hotels of Asia, she now feels most at home writing about properties that come with soul and plenty of stories, like Nashville’s The Hermitage Hotel (p130).

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WHERE IN THE WORLD

EDGE OF WONDER

Some places silence you. Not through grandeur or spectacle, but with a quietness so complete it demands your attention. Perched on Trolltunga as the sun sinks behind western Norway’s mountains, it’s easy to understand why people undertake the demanding 20- to 27-kilometre round-trip hike to get here. Near the fjord-side town of Odda, the otherworldly rock ledge projects from the mountainside like nature’s own observation deck, suspended 700 metres above the lake below. As daylight fades, the landscape softens. Glacial valleys stretch into the distance. Dark peaks ripple across the horizon. The moon rises above the Scandinavian mountains, casting a silver glow across a region shaped by ice, water and time. From this lofty perch, the scale of the scene becomes almost impossible to comprehend. Being alone in such a vast wilderness could feel isolating. Instead, it feels oddly comforting. The silence becomes a companion. The mountains put life into perspective. In a world that rarely stops moving, Trolltunga offers something increasingly rare: space to sit, breathe and simply be present.

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WHERE IN THE WORLD

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T R AV E L N E W S

IN THE KNOW

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Travel happenings from around the world

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T R AV E L N E W S

NEW OPENINGS SIX SENSES LONDON

ix Senses has officially arrived in the UK, opening its first British hotel inside London’s historic 1911 Whiteley department store. The Bayswater property pairs restored Edwardian architecture with the brand’s signature focus on wellness, sustainability and conscious luxury. Beyond its elegant rooms and suites, the hotel features one of London’s most comprehensive spa offerings, including the city’s first hotel magnesium pool, a longevity clinic, biohacking lounge and Alchemy Bar. It also marks the debut of Six Senses Place, the brand’s first private members’ club in the UK. The opening breathes new life into one of west London’s most iconic heritage buildings.

sixsenses.com

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T R AV E L N E W S

NEW OPENINGS

MANTIS HIDDN IN ADDO

outh Africa’s safari scene has a striking new addition with the opening of Mantis Hiddn in Addo, an ultraluxury, fully off-grid retreat set within an 800-hectare private reserve bordering Addo Elephant National Park. Rather than focusing solely on wildlife, the mountain sanctuary combines immersive safari experiences with a strong wellness philosophy centred on sleep, movement, mindfulness and nature. Just 12 suites and two private villas are tucked into the landscape, each with sweeping wilderness views and wood-fired outdoor tubs. Days are tailored to each guest, from Big Five game drives and guided walks to botanical therapies, sound healing and seasonal, hyper-local dining, offering a slower, more restorative take on the traditional safari.

mantiscollection.com

MONARTO SAFARI LODGE

hile the world’s great safari lodges are traditionally found in Africa and India, Australia is steadily building its own wildlife credentials. The latest addition is Safari Lodge at Monarto Safari Resort, an all-inclusive retreat overlooking one of the country’s largest open-range wildlife parks. Just 20 luxury tents sit beside a bustling waterhole, where giraffes, rhinos and other African species roam the Wild Africa precinct. Each stay includes a sunset game drive, gourmet dining, premium beverages and multi-day park access, while the central lodge features a restaurant, plunge pools, firepit and gym. Just an hour from Adelaide, it delivers one of Australia’s closest experiences to an African safari, without leaving the country. monartosafariresort.com

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T R AV E L N E W S

KILCHOAN ESTATE

s luxury travellers increasingly seek places to truly switch off, Scotland’s newest retreat takes remoteness to the next level. Freshly minted Kilchoan Estate by Dunton occupies more than 5,260 hectares of wilderness on the dramatic Knoydart Peninsula – a destination so isolated it can only be reached by boat or on foot. The fully inclusive retreat opened with five restored Highland cottages, each designed by Waldo Works using local stone, pine and slate. Days are spent hiking, kayaking, wild swimming or spotting red deer and golden eagles before returning to a spa with sauna and yoga studio, and communal dinners celebrating seasonal Scottish produce. Fossil fuel-free and conservation-led, Kilchoan is Dunton’s first European property and one of the Highlands’ most exclusive new escapes. duntondestinations.com

COMO CORDEILLAN-BAGES

comohotels.com

ne of Europe’s great wine regions has a fitting new address. COMO Hotels and Resorts has opened COMO CordeillanBages, bringing its signature understated luxury to the heart of Bordeaux’s famed Médoc and marking the brand’s debut in the region. Set within a restored 19th-century château in Pauillac, the 28-room retreat has been reimagined by designer Paola Navone and sits among some of Bordeaux’s most celebrated vineyards. Guests enjoy exclusive access to nearby Château Lynch-Bages, while consultant chef Fabien Ferré – France’s youngest chef to lead a three-Michelin-starred restaurant – oversees a dining experience showcasing the region’s exceptional produce, paired with a cellar of more than 1,600 wines.

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T R AV E L N E W S

KITIRUA PLAINS LODGE

ore than 60 years after pioneering luxury safaris in Kenya, Abercrombie & Kent has come full circle. The company has opened Kitirua Plains Lodge, an A&K Sanctuary, on a private conservancy bordering Amboseli National Park – one of Africa’s most iconic wildlife destinations. Rather than traditional canvas tents, the design-led retreat features sculptural stone suites inspired by Maasai architecture, blending seamlessly into the surrounding landscape beneath Mount Kilimanjaro. Days are spent tracking Amboseli’s famed elephant herds, unwinding with Maasai-inspired wellness treatments or gathering around the boma beneath starfilled skies. The opening signals a bold new direction for A&K, combining contemporary design, meaningful conservation and one of the continent’s most inspiring safari settings. abercrombiekent.com

1 HOTEL TOKYO

okyo has no shortage of luxury hotels, but its latest arrival is making a statement for more than its skyline views. 1 Hotel Tokyo marks the sustainable luxury brand’s debut in Japan, bringing its signature nature-inspired philosophy to the upper floors of Akasaka Trust Tower. The 211-room hotel blends reclaimed materials, lush greenery and sweeping city vistas with a distinctly Japanese aesthetic inspired by wabi-sabi. Guests can unwind in a holistic spa, indoor pool and wellness spaces, or dine on seasonal local produce across three restaurants and bars. As one of the world’s leading eco-conscious hotel brands, 1 Hotels proves sustainability and sophisticated design can go hand in hand in the heart of Tokyo.

1hotels.com

ew hotels have shaped the Blue Mountains’ luxury story quite like Lilianfels. More than 135 years after it was built as the summer residence of Sir Frederick Darley on the outskirts of Sydney, the landmark estate has entered a new era as Ardour Lilianfels Blue Mountains following a multimillion-dollar transformation. Award-winning studio Luchetti Krelle has refreshed the heritage-listed property with elegant new interiors inspired by English garden estates, while preserving its late Victorian charm. Alongside redesigned guest rooms, the hotel has introduced a new social hub, The Lounge, with elevated dining experiences including caviar service and an indulgent high tea. worldsapart.club

ARDOUR LILIANFELS BLUE MOUNTAINS

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T R AV E L N E W S

ON OUR RADAR OCTOLA III

ome of the world’s most exclusive hotels hide in plain sight. Others require an invitation. Opening on 1 December, Octola III is an invitation-only wilderness retreat tucked high in the fells of Finnish Lapland, where just six guests at a time can immerse themselves in one of Europe’s last great Arctic landscapes. Built on the site of a former radar station, the private lodge combines panoramic tundra views with bespoke experiences shaped by Sámi culture, from reindeer encounters to Arctic wellness rituals centred on wood-fired saunas and ice swimming. Designed by architect Hannu Voutilainen, it’s a place where silence, pristine air and uninterrupted wilderness become the ultimate luxury.

octola.com

WALDORF ASTORIA LONDON – ADMIRALTY ARCH

ew buildings are more woven into London’s history than Admiralty Arch. Soon, travellers will be able to sleep inside it. Reservations have opened for Waldorf Astoria London – Admiralty Arch, ahead of its 2027 debut following an extensive restoration of the Grade I-listed landmark. For more than a century, the building has served as a gateway to royal processions along The Mall and housed government offices. Its next chapter transforms those historic spaces into one of the capital’s most anticipated luxury hotels, complete with destination dining from the likes of Daniel Boulud and Clare Smyth, an indulgent spa and interiors that celebrate the building’s Edwardian grandeur. hilton.com

LAVAL HUNTER VALLEY

ustralia’s oldest wine region is about to enter a new era of luxury. Opening in 2027, LAVAL Hunter Valley will be the first new-build resort of its scale in the NSW region in two decades, transforming the historic Lindeman Estate in Pokolbin into a world-class retreat. The 65-villa property pairs vineyard immersion with ambitious style, featuring design by EJE Architects, interiors by Some Studio and one of the world’s largest collections of Gillie & Marc sculptures. Guests can expect a 1,000-square-metre longevity spa, chef Justin North’s signature restaurant, a 10,000-bottle wine cellar and a private helicopter landing pad, creating a destination designed to rival Australia’s leading luxury lodges. lavalhuntervalley.com.au

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T R AV E L N E W S

AMANSANU

oming soon to Texas Hill Country, Amansanu will bring Aman’s signature brand of understated luxury to an entirely new setting. The ultra-luxury hotel group’s first ranch-inspired retreat reimagines the American West through the lens of contemporary design, wellness and wide-open wilderness. Horseback rides at sunrise, creekside wellness rituals and evenings beneath vast Texan skies will define the experience at Amansanu. Designed by Olson Kundig, the retreat blends secluded pavilions and branded residences into the limestone landscape, while Aman’s first fully serviced equestrian program offers a distinctly local take on the brand’s philosophy of immersion, wellbeing and connection to nature. aman.com

NOBU WOOLFOX

or a brand synonymous with city skylines, Nobu is taking an unexpected turn. The luxury hospitality group is heading to the English countryside with Nobu Woolfox, its first rural retreat and a new expression of the Nobu lifestyle centred on nature, wellness and slower living. Set within 75 hectares of rolling Rutland countryside near the historic town of Stamford, the destination will combine a hotel, signature Nobu restaurant, spa, members’ club and branded residences. Days are designed around sailing, fly fishing, walking and cycling, with nearby Rutland Water providing a spectacular natural playground. Rather than the energy of New York or London, Nobu Woolfox promises something altogether different – a chance to swap city lights for quiet luxury.

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T R AV E L N E W S

FOUR SEASONS MYKONOS

trip away the DJs and champagne spray, and Mykonos reveals a surprisingly tranquil side. That’s the version of the island Four Seasons is showcasing with its first Greek resort, opening above the turquoise waters of Kalo Livadi Bay. Designed to resemble a traditional Cycladic village, the clifftop retreat unfolds across six hectares of terraced gardens, whitewashed courtyards and winding stone pathways. If you can tear yourself away, diversions range from exploring nearby Delos by private boat to unwinding beside two infinity pools or retreating to the property’s private beach before returning for refined dining overlooking the Aegean. It’s a more understated take on one of the Mediterranean’s most iconic islands.

CRUISE & RAIL

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THE SUITE LIFE, AFLOAT

arely months after launching its first yacht, Four Seasons is already raising the bar. The hospitality brand has unveiled Four Seasons II, a second ultra-luxury vessel that introduces a new collection of residential-style suites when it debuts in 2028. Rather than simply replicating its predecessor, Four Seasons II will feature just 79 expansive suites, including new Yacht Residential Suites with up to four bedrooms, generous living and dining spaces, kitchens and oversized terraces designed for families and longer voyages. The yacht will continue the brand’s emphasis on personalised service, destination-led itineraries and spacious living at sea, reinforcing Four Seasons’ vision of bringing the comforts of a private residence to the world’s oceans.

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ROLLING IN STYLE

he Ghan, Indian Pacific and Great Southern have long carved through some of Australia’s most spectacular landscapes, from Sydney to Perth and Adelaide to Darwin. Now, Journey Beyond is ushering in a new era of opulence on board with the launch of its Aurora and Australis suites. Designed by Woods Bagot, the spacious new accommodation draws inspiration from Australia’s landscapes and Art Deco rail heritage, with decorative timber, stone, leather and bespoke craftsmanship throughout. Guests can expect butler service, private in-suite dining and exclusive off-train experiences, including scenic helicopter flights and champagne lunches. It marks the most significant upgrade in Journey Beyond’s history, reaffirming Australia’s place among the world’s great luxury rail journeys.

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THE PLANNING

LUXURY IN THE HOME In your home, as you plan your adventures, be surrounded by beautifully designed pieces inspired by all corners of the globe C o m p i l e d b y N ATA S H A D R A G U N

Australia’s native food movement is increasingly being shaped by Indigenous voices – and Seven Seasons Spirits sits firmly at the forefront. Founde by Larrakia man and former AFL player Daniel Motlop, the Indigenous-owned spirits brand transforms native botanicals and 65,000 years of cultural knowledge into distinctly Australian pours. Its award-winning Green Ant Gin has become the standout: a layered blend of green ants, lemon myrtle, strawberry gum and pepperberry that balances bright citrus with earthy complexity. But beyond flavou , Seven Seasons is deeply rooted in cultural practice, with ingredients sustainably wildharvested according to the rhythms of the Larrakia seasonal calendar. By creating employment for Aboriginal harvesters and building a market for native ingredients, the brand is helping preserve cultural knowledge while bringing Indigenous storytelling to bars and dinner tables across the country. RRP AU$100 seven-seasons.com.au

Game tables rarely look this glamorous. Recently unveiled in Milan, the expanded collaboration between Rubinacci and 11 Ravens transforms everything from ping pong and poker to mahjong and foosball (pictured here) into sculptural design statements. Inspired by the elegance of coastal Italy and the polished world of yachting culture, the collection pairs fluid timber silhouettes with brass detailin reminiscent of classic maritime craftsmanship. Each piece is handcrafted in Los Angeles, but deeply informed by Rubinacci’s Neapolitan heritage and tailoring ethos. Fully customisable for both homes and hospitality spaces, the collection blurs the line between recreation and collectible design – proof that game rooms are becoming as considered as the living rooms beside them. POA 11ravens.com Hotels are no longer just influencing how people travel they’re shaping how they want to live. That shift sits behind the new Design Shop from Marriott Bonvoy Boutiques, which expands beyond bedding and bath products into full-scale furniture, decor and art collections inspired by some of the group’s most recognisable hotel brands. The debut ranges channel the distinct aesthetics of W Hotels and Westin Hotels & Resorts, translating their signature design language into residential pieces. Particularly striking is the W Hotels Living collection, created with renowned studio Rockwell Group and inspired by the redesigned W New York – Union Square. Think bold floral rugs, sculptura lighting, colour-blocked décor and richly textured furniture that blur the line between boutique hotel suite and contemporary apartment. POA shop.marriott.com 2 8 | L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U

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THE PLANNING

Few fragrance houses have a scent language as recognisable as Guerlain. Now, the French maison is translating its legendary accord – built around six emblematic notes including bergamot, rose, jasmine, iris, vanilla and tonka bean – into a new Art de Vivre collection spanning candles, soaps and car diffusers Created by Delphine Jelk, the collection explores each raw material individually through scents such as rose centifolia, iris pallida and vanille planifolia. The standout is tonka sarrapia, where tonka bean is pushed into deliciously addictive territory through layers of bitter almond and warm gourmand notes, evoking the atmosphere of a Left Bank Parisian cafe. Alongside the home collection, Guerlain has also expanded its ultraconcentrated Les Extraits Signature fragrance line, allowing wearers to layer and personalise their own interpretation of the house’s iconic olfactory identity. RRP candle from €139 (about AU$226); Les Extraits from €500 (about AU$813)

Curved silhouettes continue to dominate contemporary furniture design, but the Andes Buffet from Glob West pushes the trend into something more sculptural. Defined by its rounded timber form an rich mocha oak finish, the piece feels almost architectural – softenin the visual weight of a traditional sideboard while still commanding attention within a room. Part of GlobeWest’s latest collection, the buffet reflects the bran s distinctly Australian approach to interiors, where texture, craftsmanship and organic forms are prioritised over minimalism alone. The result is furniture designed not just for storage, but for atmosphere – a statement piece that sits somewhere between functional design and collectible object. RRP AU$5,395 globewest.com.au

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There’s something distinctly cinematic about the Leonard armchair, newly designed by Christophe Delcourt for Molteni&C’s 2026 collection. With its leather- or fabric-wrapped form, sculpted timber shell and swivel base, it feels like the kind of piece pulled from a beautifully restored Milanese apartment – only reimagined for modern life. Delcourt describes Leonard as a contemporary interpretation of the great modernist seats: informal, versatile and quietly commanding. Crafted to move effortlessly between livin room, bedroom and workspace, the chair pairs architectural restraint with tactile warmth. The result is a piece that feels timeless rather than trend-driven – sophisticated, understated and unmistakably Italian in its approach to craftsmanship and design. POA molteni.it

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T H E PA C K I N G

TRAVEL IN STYLE Fashionably luxe looks to pack for your journey C o m p i l e d b y N ATA S H A D R A G U N

Cat-eye sunglasses have been cycling through fashion history for decades, but Bottega Venetta continues to give the silhouette a sharper, more architectural edge. These oversized acetate frames reinterpret the retro shape through the brand’s distinctly modern lens – think sculptural lines, exaggerated angles and the kind of understated drama that has become synonymous with Bottega’s aesthetic. Crafted in Italy from glossy acetate, the sunglasses feel less vintage revival and more contemporary design object, reﬂecting the growing appetite for accessories that balance wearability with strong visual identity. RRP AU$895 net-a-porter.com

Shimmering like sunlight on water, this metallic crochet-knit maxi dress from Missoni captures the Italian house at its most cinematic. The brand’s signature zigzag aesthetic is stretched into a fluid, floor-skimming silhouette woven with metallic threads that catch the light with every movement. Softly fluted and e° ortlessly glamorous, it channels the kind of Riviera ease Missoni has perfected for decades – relaxed, tactile and unmistakably Italian. Think breezy dinners, late summer parties and barefoot walks between beach clubs and boats. RRP AU$4,860

There’s an art to making simplicity feel luxurious. The Jadaron 70 leather mules from Manolo Blahnik achieve it through softly sculpted lines, supple leather and beautifully balanced proportions. Stripped of embellishment, the design relies instead on precision and restraint – a curved vamp, slender heel and silhouette that moves seamlessly from day to evening. The result feels polished without trying too hard, reﬂecting the enduring appeal of shoes designed not around trends, but around timeless elegance and impeccable craftsmanship. RRP AU$1,355 manoloblahnik.com

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T H E PA C K I N G

Playfulness has become fashion’s new luxury language, and Maison de Sabre is leaning fully into it with its Spring Harvest Collection. The Australian accessories label expands its cult leather goods universe through a series of sculptural bucket bags and limited-edition Vegetable Charms inspired by outdoor markets and alfresco dining. While the Mini Bucket Bag and Zipped Bucket Bag bring softer silhouettes and dual-tone detailing to the collection, it’s the charms stealing attention – miniature carrots, mushrooms, snap peas and chillies handcrafted from upcycled full-grain leather using intricate marquetry and embroidery techniques. RRP Bucket Bag AU$499; Charms $89 maisondesabre.com

Adventure travel is changing what people expect from luggage. Increasingly, travellers want bags that can handle everything from remote road trips to multi-stop international itineraries without looking overtly technical. That shift sits behind the new Discovery Collection from Antler, which rethinks travel gear through a more flexibl , design-conscious lens. Crafted from recycled waterresistant materials, the range includes wheeled duffels an streamlined backpacks designed for movement, with features such as compression straps, suitcase-style openings and lightweight construction. Standouts include the Discovery Wheeled Duffel an the 60L Backpack, both balancing practicality with a cleaner, more elevated aesthetic than traditional hiking gear. The result feels geared less towards hardcore expedition travel and more towards the growing appetite for adaptable, experience-led journeys. RRP from AU$330 antler.com.au

Perfect symmetry has never interested Suzanne Kalan. The Los Angeles jeweller built her cult following on what she calls the ‘firework ’ technique – deliberately scattered baguette diamonds arranged in ways that feel spontaneous rather than rigidly traditional. That signature aesthetic is on full display in this 18-karat white gold diamond necklace, where clusters of diamonds appear almost suspended in motion across the neckline. The result feels modern, architectural and slightly undone – less classic tennis necklace, more wearable sculpture. Like much of Kalan’s work, it reflects the growin appetite for fine jewellery that feels expressiv and individual rather than conventionally formal. RRP AU$170,335

Parisian fragrance house Ex Nihilo has built its reputation on scents that feel cinematic rather than conventional – and Lust in Paradise Extrait de Parfum might be its most transportive yet. Inspired by the fading light of the French Riviera, the intensified new interpretation layer pink pepper, red ginger and blackcurrant over luminous jasmine sambac and soft musks, creating something that feels both radiant and addictive. Richer and more concentrated than the original fragrance, the extrait leans into warmth and sensuality without losing the airy elegance that made the scent a cult favourite. It’s the kind of fragrance that lingers like heat on skin after a long Mediterranean afternoon – glamorous, modern and unapologetically escapist. RRP AU$710 (100ml) ex-nihilo-paris.com

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THE EXPERIENCE

TECH SAVVY Luxe gadgets to take with you on your adventures – or to look forward to when you get home C o m p i l e d b y N ATA S H A D R A G U N

What if the golden age of the French Riviera was reimagined as an electric Rolls-Royce? That’s the thinking behind Project Nightingale, the latest Coachbuild concept from the motor company. Named after Le Rossignol – French for ‘the nightingale’, and an estate near Henry Royce’s winter home on the Côte d’Azur – the open-top two-seater channels the spirit of the marque’s experimental ‘EX’ models through a thoroughly modern lens. Sculptural Streamline Moderne styling is paired with a fully electric drivetrain engineered for near-silent coastal cruising, while only 100 examples will be hand-built in England from 2028. POA rolls-roycemotorcars.com

Health tech is becoming increasingly difficult to distinguish from jewellery – and the new collection from ŌURA leans fully into that shift. The brand’s latest Oura Ring 4 Ceramic range reimagines the smart ring in highperformance zirconia ceramic, a material more commonly associated with luxury watchmaking and jewellery design. Available in soft, mineral-inspired shades including Tide, Petal, Cloud and Midnight, the rings combine polished aesthetics with the same advanced biometric tracking that made ŌURA a cult wellness accessory. The ring monitors everything from sleep quality and recovery to stress, heart health and activity levels, translating complex health data into something intuitive, wearable and deeply personal. RRP AU$799 ouraring.com

The TemPolor Melo-D barely resembles a traditional guitar – and that’s precisely the point. With its foldable frame, illuminated silicone strings and sleek touchscreen interface, the AI-powered instrument feels closer to a piece of futuristic consumer tech than something pulled from a music studio. Designed to make songwriting and learning more intuitive, the Melo-D can turn hummed melodies or uploaded tracks into playable compositions within seconds using generative AI tools. Rather than appealing solely to seasoned musicians, it has been conceived for a new generation of creators who value portability, accessibility and seamless interaction as much as sound itself. Already recognised with international design awards, the Melo-D reflects how musical instrument are increasingly being rethought through the lens of industrial design and smart technology. POA tempolorguitar.com 3 2 | L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U

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THE EXPERIENCE

Swiss watchmaker Louis Erard and cult French designer Alain Silberstein are once again turning horology into something far more playful. Their latest collaboration – the Smile-Day Blue and Tourbillon Régulateur Blue – launches the brand’s new ‘Hall of Fame’ collection, a permanent series celebrating designs destined for collector status. Both watches channel Silberstein’s unmistakable Bauhaus-inspired visual language through vivid primary-coloured hands, sculptural geometry and a luminous blue sunray dial. The standout Smile-Day Blue even features a changing smiley-face day display that shifts mood throughout the week. Equal parts serious watchmaking and joyful design object. RRP AU$7,200 louiserard.com

Danish audio house Bang & Olufsen has teamed up with Japanese design label Fragment on a new limited-edition collection that blurs the line between sound system and design object. Reworking some of B&O’s most recognisable products through Fragment founder Hiroshi Fujiwara’s monochromatic aesthetic, the collaboration leans into pared-back finishes, sculptural forms and collectible appeal The standout is the Beoplay H100 headphones, reimagined in sleek black-and-silver tones that feel closer to fashion accessory than tech device. Like much of Bang & Olufsen’s recent output, the collaboration positions audio equipment not just as something to listen to, but something to live with visually – where craftsmanship, materiality and design carry as much weight as sound quality. RRP AU$3,580 bang-olufsen.com

For years, GoPro was synonymous with surfboards ski helmets and action sports. Now, the brand is making a dramatic move into the world of cinemagrade imaging. The new MISSION 1 Series introduces a sleek line-up of ultra-compact 8K and 4K Open Gate cameras designed for filmma ers and creators rather than adrenaline junkies alone. Built around a new 50MP one-inch sensor and GP3 processor, the cameras pair rugged portability with surprisingly sophisticated imaging capabilities, including lowlight performance and interchangeable lens options on select models. The design language remains unmistakably GoPro – minimal, durable and modular – but the ambition feels entirely different. For creator who want professional tools without the bulk. RRP from AU$949 gopro.com

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D I S PAT C H E S

AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES Encounters and journeys for genuine connection

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MODERNISME TO THE MAX Barcelona is going full Gaudí in 2026. As the city marks 100 years since the passing of Antoni Gaudí – alongside its designation as the World Capital of Architecture – a packed calendar of exhibitions, concerts and landmark openings will celebrate the visionary architect’s enduring influenc . Few addresses are better placed to experience it than Mandarin Oriental on Passeig de Gràcia, steps from Casa Batlló and La Pedrera. The hotel has launched curated experiences including private Gaudí-led itineraries and exclusive access to architectural icons such as Sagrada Família, where the long-awaited Tower of Jesus Christ was inaugurated in June 2026. Even afternoon tea gets the Gaudí treatment, with desserts inspired by the city’s famed Modernist mosaics. mandarinoriental.com

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D I S PAT C H E S

INSIDE CARNIVAL’S INNER CIRCLE Most travellers experience Brazil’s Rio Carnival from the sidelines. Abercrombie & Kent wants guests in the middle of it. Personally hosted by founder Geoffrey Kent and limited to just 16 travellers, the new ‘Rio Carnival to Iguazú Falls’ journey has been designed around the kind of access money alone rarely buys. Think invitations to the ultra-exclusive Copacabana Palace Magic Ball, private lounges at the Sambadrome, behind-thescenes moments with samba schools, and helicopter flights above Christ the Redeemer and Iguazú Falls. The eight-day itinerary pairs Rio’s electric energy with the raw spectacle of the falls, alongside stays at design-forward icons including Philippe Starck’s Fasano Rio de Janeiro and Hotel das Cataratas, the only lodging inside the Iguazú National Park.

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WELLNESS, AFTER HOURS Late-night spa access isn’t new – but Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa is turning it into something far more transportive. As part of Fairmont Hotel & Resorts’ new ‘Special Happens…’ collection of immersive global experiences, the property’s ‘Spa Under the Stars’ offering invites guests to ta e over its geothermal mineral pools after dark, transforming the famed US wine country retreat into a private nocturnal sanctuary. Beneath the Sonoma sky, the experience leans into quiet luxury and reconnection, pairing thermal waters with an atmosphere designed for complete stillness. The wider collection also includes Indigenous-led heli-foraging adventures in the Canadian Rockies, eclipse-viewing soirées in Tangier and whisky-fuelled celestial escapes in Scotland – but Sonoma’s after-hours spa ritual feels especially attuned to the growing desire for slower, sensory-driven wellness travel. fairmont.com

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PATAGONIA THROUGH ANOTHER LENS Luxury travel is increasingly shifting from sightseeing to skill-building – and a new photography expedition through Patagonia leans fully into that idea. Hosted in 2027 by French photographer and filmma er Timothy Dhalleine in partnership with andBeyond Vira Vira, the immersive eight-day journey takes guests deep into Chilean Patagonia during autumn, when lenga forests burn copper and volcanic landscapes shift dramatically with the light. Limited to just eight travellers, the itinerary combines field photography, storytelling workshops and postproduction sessions at the lodge, moving from Santiago through Torres del Paine National Park and the Araucanía region. Rather than treating Patagonia as scenery alone, the experience encourages guests to slow down and work with the landscape more deliberately – creating imagery shaped as much by atmosphere and patience as location. andbeyond.com

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D I S PAT C H E S

Slow travel is getting a Nordic rewrite. Up Norway’s new ‘Scandinavian Spirit’ itinerary trades whistle-stop sightseeing for a deeper immersion into the philosophies that shape life across Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland. Spanning 12 to 14 days, the journey moves from Copenhagen’s influential design culture and Osl ’s striking contemporary architecture to Stockholm’s island serenity and the remote fjord communities of western Norway. Along the way, travellers are introduced to the Nordic concepts of hygge, friluftsliv, lagom and sisu – ideas centred around balance, resilience and connection to nature. The standout is the land-based exploration of Norway’s Sunnmøre region, where guests swap cruiseship viewpoints for guided hikes, kayaking and stays in historic fjord side properties largely inaccessible to mainstream tourism. upnorway.com

NORTHERN EXPOSURE

DRIVING THE ALPS IN STYLE Road trips are becoming luxury travel’s newest status symbol – especially when they involve high-performance sports cars, Alpine passes and some of Europe’s most storied retreats. Preferred Hotels & Resorts’ new ‘Preferred Experience’, created with driving specialist InRadius, transforms the classic grand tour into a five-day curated journey through Germany and Austria. Limited to just 20 guests, the itinerary pairs iconic routes including the Hahntennjoch and Gerlos passes with stays at design-forward properties such as Hotel Bayerischer Hof and InteralpenHotel Tyrol. Between scenic drives, guests can expect spa rituals, mountain dining and curated cultural moments, reframing the road trip as something more refined, immersive and deeply experiential.

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D I S PAT C H E S

DESIGN Exceptional architecture and design from around the world

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DESIGNING THE DAINTREE DIFFERENTLY Where the Daintree Rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef, Ever Bloomﬁeld is shaping up to be one of Australia’s most design-conscious new wilderness stays. Opening in November 2026 with just 14 low-impact bungalows overlooking Queensland’s Bloomﬁeld River, it marks the Australian debut of experiential travel brand Ever Lodges, founded by The Tailor’s Drew Kluska and travel advocate Justin Liberman. Designed to ‘sit lightly on Country’, the o° -grid retreat blends architecture with one of the world’s oldest living landscapes, uniting pared-back interiors and a restorative communal Long Room with deeply immersive experiences. Think heliadventures to ancient Quinkan rock-art sites, rainforest dining, reef safaris and guided treks through tightly protected wilderness areas – all crafted to connect guests more meaningfully to place. ever.au

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D I S PAT C H E S

TASMANIA’S NEW JEWEL There are luxury lodges – and then there are private residences designed to disappear into their surroundings. Opening in late 2026, the Saffire Jewe Private Villa at Saffire Freycinet introduce a more secluded, design-driven way to experience Tasmania’s east coast. Conceptualised by leading Australian practice Altis Architecture, the threebedroom villa sits against the pink granite peaks of The Hazards in Coles Bay, pairing charred timber, travertine and sculpted marble with expansive indoor-outdoor living spaces overlooking Great Oyster Bay. Spanning more than 800 square metres, the residence has been imagined as an architectural extension of the landscape itself, balancing the intimacy of a private home with the polished service Saffire is known f . saffire-freycinet.com.au

WHEN FASHION BECOMES ARCHITECTURE The new House of Dior in Beijing doesn’t read like a flagship store so much as a piece of contemporary sculpture dropped into the city skyline. Designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Christian de Portzamparc, the five-storey building transforms the language of couture into architecture, with sweeping white resin forms inspired by the movement of pleated fabric and haute couture silhouettes. Gold-tiled elements nod subtly to traditional Chinese architecture, while inside, curved staircases, gallery-like salons and commissioned artworks create the atmosphere of a private cultural residence rather than a retail space. It is one of Dior’s most architecturally ambitious projects to date – and further proof that luxury fashion houses are increasingly competing through design as much as style. dior.com

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D I S PAT C H E S

CARVED FROM STONE At first glanc , Desert Rock appears less like a resort and more like part of the landscape. Designed by acclaimed firm Oppenheim Architecture within the ancient Hejaz Mountains of Saudi Arabia, the dramatic property has been carved directly into the desert, with villas and suites embedded within cliffs, caves and rocky crevices. Rather than imposing architecture onto the terrain, the project was conceived to disappear into it, drawing inspiration from Nabataean rock-cut architecture and using excavated stone throughout the build. Interiors by Studio Paolo Ferrari continue the restrained, elemental approach through raw concrete, patinated bronze, limestone and custom furnishings. The result is one of the most visually arresting hotel projects in the Middle East – a place where architecture feels geological and grounded rather than constructed. desertrock.sa

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CARTAGENA, REIMAGINED It took more than 15 years to bring Four Seasons Hotel and Residences Cartagena to life – and the result feels less like a new hotel than the revival of an entire architectural quarter in Colombia. Set in the heart of Cartagena’s historic Getsemaní district, the newly opened property stitches together a remarkable collection of restored heritage buildings, from a 16th-century cloister to the landmark former Club Cartagena. The late French designer François Catroux led much of the design vision, layering Spanish colonial character with contemporary restraint, while firms including ATG, AvroKO and Wimberly Interiors helped shape the project. The result is richly atmospheric rather than overtly polished – courtyards, rooftop terraces, artisanal detailing and light-filled atriums that feel deepl connected to Cartagena itself.. fourseasons.com

ART TAKES FLIGHT The new Zayed National Museum was always destined to become one of the most striking buildings in Abu Dhabi. Designed by Norman Foster and his studio Foster + Partners, the museum rises from the landscape in five sculptural steel towers inspired by the wings of a falcon in flight – a powerful symbol within Emirati culture. But the architecture is only part of the story. Inside, galleries trace more than 300,000 years of UAE history through archaeological artefacts, immersive exhibitions and cultural objects spanning everything from ancient trade routes to contemporary nationhood. Set within Abu Dhabi’s Saadiyat Cultural District, the museum positions itself as both a national archive and an architectural statement piece, where storytelling and striking design are inseparable. zayednationalmuseum.ae

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SUSTAINABILITY Responsible, regenerative and eco-tourism initiatives

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PROTECTED BY DEPTH At a time when reef systems across the world are under mounting pressure, Manami Resort in Sipalay has unveiled access to two remarkably intact new dive sites that feel increasingly rare. Discovered earlier this year less than a kilometre o˜ shore from the Filipino island resort, Jonel’s Garden and G A P reveal thriving coral formations, large predatory ﬁsh and healthy marine biodiversity largely untouched by mass tourism. Exclusive to guests of the region’s ﬁrst luxury nature resort, the sites are explored through tightly controlled, conservationled diving experiences with strict no-touch, no-take policies. It’s part of a broader shift towards lower-impact marine tourism – one focused less on volume and more on preserving fragile ecosystems through thoughtful, guided access. manamiresort.com

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D I S PAT C H E S

ART BENEATH THE TIDES Off the coast of ep, an ambitious new project is rethinking what an art museum can be. Led by Knai Bang Chatt by Kep West hotel alongside Art for Kep and Marine Conservation Cambodia, the S.E.A. Ocean Gallery is set to become Asia’s first large-scale underwater museum – where sculpture doubles as marine habitat. Located within a protected marine zone, the submerged installations will be 3D printed using reef-friendly mineral materials engineered to attract coral, fish and seagrass over time. More than an exhibition space, the project has been conceived as a living ecosystem where contemporary art, conservation and Cambodian cultural identity converge beneath the surface. With support from multiple Cambodian ministries and a 10-year vision ahead, it positions Kep at the forefront of regenerative cultural tourism. kepwest.com

PARADISE BELOW French Polynesia has just made one of the boldest ocean conservation moves on the planet. The territory’s vast Tainui Atea marine zone – spanning almost five million square kilometres – has officially bee designated the world’s largest Marine Protected Area. The landmark initiative positions The Islands of Tahiti at the forefront of sustainable tourism and marine stewardship, with sweeping protections including a ban on seabed exploitation and drifting fish aggregating devices. More than a conservation milestone, Tainui Atea reflects a growing shift in luxury travel towards destinations actively safeguarding the ecosystems travellers come to experience. In a region famed for crystalline lagoons and extraordinary marine biodiversity, the message is clear: preservation now forms part of the destination itself. tahititourisme.com

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D I S PAT C H E S

HEALING TURTLES, RESTORING OCEANS In the Maldives, luxury resorts are increasingly becoming centres for conservation – but Jawakara Islands Maldives has just taken that idea to another level. In partnership with Olive Ridley Project, the resort has opened the Indian Ocean’s first dedicated sea turtle hospital complete with a specialised intensive care unit for injured marine turtles. The new Sea Turtle Health Institute combines advanced veterinary technology – including regenerative therapies, digital imaging and laser treatments – with a broader focus on marine education and reef restoration. Guests can step behind the scenes to learn about turtle rehabilitation and coral regeneration efforts, while students fro around the world will train through a new Sea Turtle Veterinary Assistant Diploma program. It marks a growing shift in luxury hospitality towards properties that actively participate in protecting the ecosystems surrounding them, rather than simply showcasing them. jawakara.com

WHERE THE LANGURS LIVE Set deep within the jungle-covered slopes of the Son Tra Peninsula, InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort is positioning itself as far more than a luxury beach escape. Surrounded by one of Vietnam’s most biodiverse ecosystems, the resort sits within a critical habitat for the endangered redshanked douc langur – often described as one of the world’s most beautiful primates. Alongside guided wildlife expeditions and rainforest ecowalks, the resort has now introduced a suite of conservation-led experiences curated by resident naturalist Mr Quan, offering guests deeper insight into the peninsula’s fragile ecology. From spotting langurs in the canopy to hiking towards an 800-year-old banyan tree hidden in the jungle, the experiences reflect a growing appetite for luxury travel grounded in environmental understanding and protection. ihg.com

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CHECKING INTO THE FOREST You don’t often leave a city hotel stay having planted a tree. But that’s exactly the idea behind The Hotel Britomart’s new ‘Nourishing Nature’ experience in Auckland, which takes guests beyond the city and deep into the misty native bush of the Waitākere Ranges. Here, travellers forage indigenous herbs and plants destined for some of New Zealand’s leading restaurants, before sitting down to a fire-coo ed lunch inside a glasshouse hidden among the trees. The experience also supports reforestation efforts through nativ planting and hands-on conservation activities, offering a more meaningful way to engage with Aotearo ’s landscapes. Now paired with an overnight stay at the design-forward Britomart, it taps into a growing desire for travel that feels slower, more grounded and genuinely restorative. thehotelbritomart.com

South African luxury safari operator Singita is strengthening its sustainability credentials through a partnership with carbon project developer TASC, offsetting the carbon footprint of every guest stay while supporting large scale grassland restoration. Since the start of 2026, Singita has retired 16,980 carbon credits from TASC’s GRASS project, with the cost built into each booking. The initiative helps thousands of communal farmers restore degraded rangelands through regenerative grazing and improved livestock management, while creating local jobs through trained ecorangers. It reflects Singit ’s broader conservation mission, demonstrating how positive tourism can support ecosystem restoration, rural livelihoods and long-term climate resilience. singita.com

PRIDE OF PLACE

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Boutique hotels in Bali: Beautiful stays for design and nature lovers Beyond Bali’s sprawling resort enclaves, a collection of intimate, design-led stays offers a more considered way to experience the island. This round-up travels from Ubud’s jungle valleys and Uluwatu’s clifftops to Sidemen’s rice fields and the blac -sand beaches of the west coast, highlighting properties shaped by architecture, craftsmanship and a strong sense of place. Expect sculptural pool villas, restored family homes, bamboo retreats and a maximalist tented camp hidden in the rainforest. ➤ Search ‘Bali design’ at luxurytravelmag.com.au to read more

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L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U | 4 7

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The stories behind the world’s most stunning hotels While some hotels impress at first glanc , others stay with us because of the stories held within their walls. This online exclusive showcases an 18thcentury villa on Lake Como and a former perfume factory in Milan, alongside a restored government landmark in London, a personal retreat in Luxor and a private island in Cambodia. Each draws on history, culture, design or family legacy to create a stay that feels deeply connected to its environment. ➤ Search ‘beautiful hotels’ at luxurytravelmag.com.au to read more

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What makes Finland the happiest country on Earth Finland has been named the world’s happiest country for the ninth year running, but its appeal lies less in grand gestures than in everyday rituals. From lakeside saunas and forest walks to ice swimming, foraging and nights beneath the Northern Lights, this feature explores how nature, trust and an appreciation for simple pleasures shape life in Finland. ➤ Search ‘Finland happiness’ at luxurytravelmag.com.au to read more

The new turndown: How luxury hotels are transforming nights into rituals Turndown has moved far beyond plumped pillows and bedside chocolates. At luxury hotels around the world, the evening ritual takes on sophisticated forms, from sleep-focused wellness treatments and guided meditations to handcrafted keepsakes rooted in local culture. These touches extend the story of a stay, creating moments that feel personal and utterly memorable. ➤ Search ‘hotel turndown’ at luxurytravelmag.com.au to read more L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U | 4 9

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The car-free island where America slows to a colourful storybook pace On Michigan’s Mackinac Island, cars give way to bicycles and horse-drawn carriages, while Victorian cottages, historic forts and old-world hotel rituals transport you to a bygone era. Cycling its scenic shoreline, Marie Barbieri encounters fragrant fudge shops, forest trails and the storied Grand Hotel – a summer escape that feels suspended in another time. ➤ Search ‘Mackinac Island’ at luxurytravelmag.com.au to read more

Cowboy country: Inside Argentina’s gaucho heartland Across Argentina’s Pampas, gaucho traditions endure in horsemanship, silversmithing, asado and life on historic estancias. This journey through San Antonio de Areco follows long rides, artisan workshops and country rituals that keep the cowboy spirit alive.

➤ Search ‘gaucho culture’ at luxurytravelmag.com.au to read more

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JUST BACK FROM

“We wanted the hotel to feel like a big hug from the moment you walk through the entrance.”

The Queenscliff Hotel Patricia Maunder checks in to The Queenscliff Hotel on Victori ’s Bellarine Peninsula, where a grand 1888 seaside landmark has been revived with restored Victorian detail, polished contemporary interiors and destination dining at Miettas. ➤ Search ‘Queenscliff Hotel’ at luxurytravelmag.com.au to read more

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HIGH FLYER CATHAY PACIFIC HONG KONG TO SYDNEY

FLIGHT NUMBER AIRCRAFT DEPARTURE TIME SEATING FLIGHT TIME PASSENGER

CX181 Boeing 777-300ER 12:45am 18K 9 hours Madelin Tomelty

THE CABIN Having experienced Cathay Pacific’s very comfortable Business Class cabin on a Sydney to Hong Kong flight in 2024, I boarded the airline’s Boeing 777-300ER with some anticipation earlier this year. This time, I’d be occupying one of the airline’s award-winning Aria Suites, which launched on Cathay’s Sydney route in March 2025 and currently feature on one outbound and one inbound flight between Sydney and Hong Kong each day. The Business Class cabin holds 45 sleek suites in a 1x2x1 reverse herringbone configuration and looks and feels exactly as expected – sophisticated, contemporary and unmistakably new. I can see why the cabin won the title of ‘Best New Business Class’ at TheDesignAir Awards in its debut year. At the time, the judges praised the residential approach of the cabin, noting how the Aria Suite serves as an extension of the design language offered in the airline’s exceptional lounges (more later). I immediately notice the same neutral palette and use of materials, including leather-look fabrics and timber, and a similar atmosphere – low-lit and relaxing. THE SEAT Every element of my Aria Suite appears carefully considered – even the handy inlay tray, which is embroidered and keeps your phone, glasses and passport within easy reach. My cosy window cocoon, with a wraparound design and lined in a premium

faux leather, is exceptionally private, with a high sliding door that makes a noticeable difference to light and noise – and how easily I fall asleep. The seat itself is lined in an ethically-sourced wool and is spacious and comfortable when in the 190.5cm-long lie-flat mode, with the aisle-side armrest able to be adjusted downward to extend the width of the bed. A thicker mattress pad would better alleviate the hip ache that comes from sleeping on my side throughout the overnight flight, but I love the plush duvet from luxe British skincare brand Bamford, and the pillow that offers the right amount of support for side sleeping. Also soft and comfortable are the headrest and slippers – which I put on as soon as I’ve kicked off my sneakers and placed them in the handy vertical compartment near the floor. BEVERAGES Because champagne is one of my weaknesses, I sip on a glass of Louis Roederer Collection 246 to start, but I notice plenty of my (healthier) neighbours order the airline’s signature welcome drink, the Cathay Delight with kiwi fruit, coconut milk and fresh mint, which smells delicious. The wine list includes a menu of ‘Discovery Wines’ sourced from the high-altitude vineyards of China, along with a selection of French, American and Australian drops and a Noval 10 Year Old Tawny Port from Portugal’s Douro Valley, with notes of dried fig and hazelnut.

FOOD While I spend most of the flight horizontal with earplugs in and eyes covered due to the late hour, I stay up for supper. Cathay Pacific boasts culinary collaborations with two Michelinstarred Hong Kong restaurants – Louise, serving French cuisine, and Chinese venue Duddell’s – with one option from each offered on the menu. I opt for the Duddell’s dish: braised beef short ribs with sweet potatoes, choy sum, Shanghainese vegetable rice accompanied by pork bone, kud root and red-rice bean soup. It’s very good – but it still doesn’t stand a chance against Cathay’s signature shrimp wonton noodle soup, which is also served at its Noodle Bars in select lounges. This is a dish I will jump at ordering, whenever the opportunity arises. The hotel-style breakfast order card, which you can hang on the coat hook in the suite, is a nice touch, with five selections including healthy bircher muesli, a scrambled egg and chorizo tortilla wrap, Chinese abalone and chicken congee, chive-and-bacon omelette and a pastry selection. ENTERTAINMENT & TECHNOLOGY That printed breakfast card is the only rejection of technology visible in my Aria Suite, though. The Red Dot Design Award-winning touchscreen controls offer convenient pre-set seat modes such as Relax, Work and Sleep, with secondary

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OPPOSITE Cathay Pacific’s calming Aria Suite cabin THIS PAGE, FROM TOP Life in Hong Kong’s Bridge lounge; expect fine dining in all Cathay lounges; turndown service in a serene Aria Suite

buttons within reach for when you’re stretched out. I particularly like how the remaining flight duration is always visible, and you can check which lavatories are free on-screen before leaving your seat. The lamp automatically adjusts its brightness according to the cabin’s ambient lighting, and you can also customise your seat’s mood lighting from any seat position. The 24-inch, 4K screen is among the biggest in the skies, and offers Bluetooth audio streaming to connect your own headphones wire-free. Speaking of wirefree, each Aria Suite features an in-built wireless charging station, while fastcharging USB-C and USB-A ports along with a standard power point are also available. As for Wi-Fi, it is blissfully complimentary. AMENITIES The Cathay Pacific amenities pouch on my last flight is one of the best I’ve received. The Aria Suite offering is slightly different. The zip-up leather pouch has been swapped out for a press-stud option, and the Bamford lip balm, hand cream and hydrating face mist exchanged for a multi-purpose balm (for lips, cuticles and anything else that’s dry), pillow mist and cooling gel. While I’m not quite sure what to do with the latter, I love skincare and beauty products, and happily pack the trio into my carry-on when we land.

THE LOUNGE Business Class passengers departing Hong Kong have access to Cathay’s excellent Business Class lounges, including The Pier, The Wing (located straight after immigration), The Deck and the recently reopened Bridge. Travellers with First Class lounge access – such as oneworld Emerald members – can also visit The Wing, First and The Pier, First, where the experience is in the realm of the five-star hotel. The Wing is favoured for its Cabanas – private shower suites equipped with a bathtub, shower, daybed and workspace – although the decadent Champagne Bar makes a nicer place to work. Those with First access often beeline for the lavish Pier at Gate 63, where you can enjoy a complimentary 15-minute shoulder, head or foot massage in a sprawling space imbued with moody lighting straight out of an underground bar. There is also a pantrystyle area and à la carte dining area (also available at The Wing, First), with menus and dishes from acclaimed Hong Kong restaurants including Rosewood Hong Kong’s The Legacy House and Mott 32. The Pier, Business, meanwhile, offers a culinary journey with separate ‘rooms’, including a Food Hall, Bar, Teahouse, Relaxation Room and Noodle Bar – where those famous wonton and dan dan noodles are made to order. cathaypacific.com L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U | 5 3

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COVER STORY

THE LAST

QUIET

PLACES ON

EARTH Not just wellness, not quite adventure, but for presence: the world’s quietest corners are drawing travellers who crave stillness, solitude and a meaningful shift

W O R D S B Y K AT E S Y M O N S

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t can be a little disconcerting at first. Being left alone in unfamiliar territory, surrounded by dense jungle that stretches to the distant shoreline. That first deep breath comes with hesitation. I know this is good for me, but I don’t know what to do with it. Next to you in the singular treehouse sits a blank journal. A clean slate. Your canvas, should you choose to engage. There are pens, pencils, watercolours, too. There are snacks (phew!), herbal teas. And then there is the horizon and everything in between. Blue, green, immense. And quiet. There is a subtle recalibration underway among the world’s luxury travellers. No longer chasing the best table, the latest opening, the most algorithmamplified sight, the desire for access has been replaced by a craving for absence. The absence of noise, distraction and obligation – the aggressive forces that have hijacked modern life. This is wellness, but not as previously packaged. It is not about yoga classes, massages or biohacking. It is not about slipping beyond velvet ropes. In fact, it is not about much at all. And yet, it is about everything: space, stillness, silence. In a culture defined by saturation, has silence become the greatest luxury of all?

THE RITUAL OF PRESENCE Back to Song Saa Private Island, the eco-luxe resort in Cambodia’s Koh Rong archipelago and where our opening scene takes place. The ‘Raw Renewal’ experience launched last year as part of Saraan Sanctuaries, an evolution of the original Song Saa resort. It is a grand journey, but a tender one, too. Just guest and guide, the experience takes as long as it takes (usually around four hours) and comprises many gently paced elements: hiking, foraging, blessings, bathing rituals, massages. “All of this is about shedding, shedding, shedding, so that you’re becoming immersed into where you are right now,” says Melita Koulmandas, entrepreneur, activist and founder of Song Saa. But it is the finale, with its undisturbed access to quiet, nature and (for better or worse) your thoughts, that creates room for stillness to take hold. “It’s giving back time, it’s giving back that space to think, that space to be, that space to reconnect to your own rhythm,” explains Koulmandas.

RIGHT The luxury of space at Fogo Island Inn © Alex Fradkin

OPENING Canada’s remote Fogo Island Inn © Alex Fradkin

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Song Saa could be described as stripped back, but it isn’t rustic. It is highly considered luxury, where removing the superfluous reveals the soul-shifting treasures that are often obscured by excess. Koulmandas personally designed ‘Raw Renewal’ by tapping into her earliest memories of Koh Bong, the islet on which Saraan Sanctuaries now sits. She wanted guests, too, to feel its “ancient energy” and be moved by it. “I don’t think people are looking to be impressed,” Koulmandas says. “I think that they’re looking to be somewhere that they can breathe, somewhere they can exhale and just really sit with the rhythm of life and the rhythm of what it is to be human, what it is to be part of a living system and be immersed in nature.”

LANDSCAPE AS AWE Psychologists have long documented the cognitive effects of awe, showing how vast landscapes reduce self-occupation and expand perception. In deserts, under auroras, beside polar seas – time seems amplified. There is humility to be found in such moments. You feel small when precisely situated within something so incredibly elemental. Chasing such landscapes isn’t new, but the intention is shifting. Increasingly, travellers accustomed to five-star immersion are turning inward, in search of something that cannot be reserved, purchased or curated. Affluent travellers are fatigued by self-improvement culture and deeply ready to surrender into silence and luxuriate in the simplicity of space. Around the world, a select few properties have been conceived around these very ideas. They are built not around services and itineraries, but around subtraction. There are fewer rooms, fewer stimuli, fewer reasons to leave your suite. Architects and designers orchestrate space, light and material to make stillness legible. Staff are trained not in upselling experiences, but in a discreet brand of luxury that elevates without intrusion. There’s not nothing to do, but you’ll sure revel in doing nothing. At andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge, for example, 11 glass-fronted suites sit almost imperceptibly within the world’s oldest desert in Namibia. On the border of NamibRand Private Desert Reserve and the NamibNaukluft National Park, the luxury lodge – formed from stone, glass and light – dissolves into sand and sky, giving guests maximum exposure to a 12,715-hectare private reserve. The show continues at nightfall. Sossusvlei sits beneath one of the darkest skies on Earth, its saturation of stars redefining your sense of scale. Retractable skylights, private verandas and plunge pools provide front-row seats to the cosmos. Feel yourself soften under the magnitude.

SHHHH… MORE QUIET STAYS TIERRA ATACAMA At the edge of Chile’s otherworldly Atacama Desert, Tierra Atacama envelops guests in the raw beauty of geysers, salt flats and volcanic peaks. Long, sunlit days stretch across desert horizons before the impossibly wide night sky takes command. tierraatacama.com

SHELDON CHALET Accessible only by helicopter, Sheldon Chalet hosts just a handful of guests at a time. Perched on a nunatak within Alaska’s Denali National Park, snowfields stretch to the horizon. Silence is absolute. sheldonchalet.com

TREEHOTEL Suspended among branches within ancient Scandinavian pine forest, Treehotel’s sculptural cabins offer unmatched views of Sweden’s fairytale woodland and the northern sky. treehotel.se

YTRI On the windswept shores of Norway’s Træna islands, Ytri promises majestic ocean vistas, jagged rock forms and the raw beauty of Arctic nature. Timeless and untamed. The retreat opened its doors in April 2026. ytri.no

LONGITUDE 131° On home soil (although ‘soil’ hardly does this ancient red earth justice), Longitude 131° comprises 16 tented pavilions, which sit beneath the vast desert sky and in the monumental presence of Uluru. longitude131.com.au

OPPOSITE A blissful moonrise moment at Tierra Atacama, Chile L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U | 5 9

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On the opposite side of the world, desert gives way to sea at Fogo Island Inn. And a wild sea at that. Located off the northeast coast of Newfoundland, Canada, the property puts the North Atlantic firmly in the spotlight with floorto-ceiling windows framing the vast ocean vista from each of the 29 rooms and suites. A theatre of fog, swell and shifting light is the main event, ably supported by design choices that are at once bold (silhouette, spatial drama) and restrained (palette, texture). The rawness of this coast can be both tranquil and tumultuous, but its natural rhythms consistently coax a sense of presence and inner calm.

RETURNING TO SCALE When you sit alone in a treehouse in Cambodia, or atop a dune in the Namib Desert, or on the wild edge of Newfoundland, there is nothing to scroll past. The landscape insists on duration. You cannot skim it. And you wouldn’t want to. The last quiet places on Earth are not selling escape. They are restoring scale. Problems, stress, ambitions, identity, performance, unread emails all shrink against ancient earth, moving tides and distant stars. And that is when, as put so eloquently by Koulmandas, “we rediscover our own internal rhythm, and true peace can really begin.”

FROM TOP Treehotel villas in Sweden blend into nature © Jonas Westling; Unwinding at Song Saa Private Island © Elise Hassey

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP YTRI Island Retreat, Norway; andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge; The healing power of nature at Fogo in Canada © Mike Dell

AN ISLAND ON PAUSE As travellers seek experiences that promote silence, an annual Balinese holiday actually enforces it. Nyepi, also known as Day of Silence, is part of the Balinese New Year, a six-day celebration focused on self-reflection and renewal. For 24 hours, everything stops. Flights are grounded, businesses close, streets are empty, lights are dimmed or turned off. Hotels are permitted to stay open, but respect for the tradition is expected. Patrick Farrell, general manager of Viceroy Bali, says: “The concept of an island so reliant on tourism voluntarily shutting down for a day is powerful. It speaks to balance, tradition and respect for spiritual practice. In an era where we are all subject to constant notifications, scrolling and digital noise, Nyepi represents a deliberate reset.” Permission to stop completely is a rare and often muchneeded gift. And although travellers globally are increasingly interested in opportunities to slow down, Nyepi can come as a surprise to holidaymakers. But Farrell says even those who arrive unaware tend to lean in. “I find for most guests, the idea of an entire island pausing is initially intriguing, then deeply appealing,” he says. “This collective participation transforms Nyepi from a personal ritual into a shared spiritual experience. In our hyper-connected world, that collective stillness feels profoundly powerful.”

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PA U S E

A peaceful interlude

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Kilchoan Estate Knoydart Peninsula, Scotland duntondestinations.com

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explore M E M O R A B L E J O U R N E YS F O R T H E C U R I O U S M O D E R N T R AV E L L E R

A N TA R C T I C A H U D S O N VA L L E Y U Z B E K I S TA N BANDA ISLANDS H O N G KO N G ICELAND

PICTURED Cempedak Private Island, Indonesia

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E X P LO R E

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FROZEN FRONTIER A voyage from Hobart to East Antarctica retraces Douglas Mawson’s polar legacy, where wild weather, sea ice and rare wildlife shape every mile

WO R D S A N D P H OTO S BY B E L L A FA L K

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eawater freezes at about -1.9°C. This fact has never mattered to me before, but it takes on new importance when you’re standing in a bikini, staring down at an ocean whose temperature hovers just above that: a syrupy, ice-flecked -1.5°C. It’s too late to chicken out now. Expedition guide Daniel sweeps away the floating chunks and I jump, the cold shocking my heart like a defibrillator. I surface, gasping like a beached salmon, and scramble back onto the ship, brain frozen as if I’ve just swallowed an entire tub of ice-cream. This isn’t some trendy wellness ritual, but rather the ‘polar plunge’ – a rite of passage for Antarctica cruise travellers. While I’m not the first person to leap into subzero waters for photos and bragging rights, this swim is special. It’s Christmas Day, and I’m at the South Magnetic Pole. While most Antarctica trips depart from South America and visit the Peninsula, on the continent’s west side, I’ve joined a unique expedition to remote East Antarctica, following in the footsteps of a hero in Australian polar exploration. Douglas Mawson was a geologist who, in 1911, led an expedition to map the frozen continent south of Australia. Today he’s a legend, his name commemorated on everything from streets and mountains to the old AU$100 note and now, on the ship carrying us south.

“This is the real Antarctica. Colder, bolder, bigger. More ice, vast distances. It doesn’t suffer fools gladly.”

ABOVE Royal penguins on Macquarie Island OPPOSITE Douglas Mawson navigating Antarctic ice floes

OPENING PAGE A zodiac expedition through thick Antarctic ice

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W H O WAS S I R D O U G L AS M AW S O N ? Douglas Mawson was an Australian geologist and explorer, best known for leading the Australasian Antarctic Expedition of 1911-1914. Unlike many explorers of his era, he was a scientist first, focused on discovery rather than conquest. He became famous for surviving an extraordinary solo journey in Antarctica after his companions died, trekking over a hundred miles back to base in brutal conditions with no supplies. Mawson later helped establish Australia’s long-term presence in Antarctica and is remembered as one of the greatest polar explorers of the Heroic Age.

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Douglas Mawson is the newest vessel from Aurora Expeditions – the company’s name also inspired by Mawson’s own ship, Aurora. Purpose-built for polar travel – with a double hull and an innovative X-bow design that cuts through waves for a smoother ride – Douglas Mawson is designed to take adventurers into the world’s wildest regions in safety and comfort. While she’ll eventually visit both polar regions as well as other parts of Europe, for Douglas Mawson’s first voyage to Antarctica we’re retracing her namesake’s route from Hobart to Cape Denison, where Mawson’s original expedition huts still stand on the wind-battered coast. And this expedition is even more special because it’s led by Aurora Expeditions co-founder Greg Mortimer, an explorer himself. “It’s gilt-edged to take the maiden voyage of a ship called Douglas Mawson to Mawson’s huts,” Mortimer tells me. As one of the first two Australians to summit Mount Everest, his own adventures were inspired by hearing Mawson’s stories as a child. “To follow his route – that’s a romantically Australian thing. There’s a lot of poetry in this voyage.”

FOLLOWING MAWSON SOUTH It’s a sentiment shared by my fellow passengers, most of whom are Australian; some even have personal connections to Mawson’s original expedition team. Our first stop is Macquarie Island, where Mawson landed to establish a radio relay station. A narrow, rain-soaked strip of land three days south of Tasmania, it looks grey and unwelcoming from a distance. It’s an illusion that evaporates as soon as the wind drops enough for us to disembark. As I clamber out of the zodiac, I’m assaulted by a sensory overload of wildlife. Thousands of royal penguins – a comical, yellow-crested species that breeds nowhere else – strut along the beach and squabble with their neighbours. Regal king penguins stand in stoic ranks, eyes closed against the wind. Beyond them, elephant seals snooze in the tussock grass or lumber towards us, curious about these strange arrivals. It’s a more exuberant welcome than the one Mawson received. When he arrived, the penguins and seals were being industrially slaughtered for oil. This horror turned Mawson into a conservationist, and he later fought for regulation of the barbaric trade. Macquarie Island is now a nature reserve, but the huge ‘penguin digesters’ still stand rusting on the shore as a reminder of our planet’s fragility. It’s Aurora Expedition’s mission to highlight this history. As we continue south and enter Antarctic waters, our sea days are spent not only relaxing in the sauna and enjoying minted lamb and crème brûlée in the ship’s two restaurants, but also learning. There are lectures on glaciology, ecology and climate change, and the chance to collect data for real scientific studies. Think counting seabirds for Cornell Lab’s eBird project or recording cloud formations for NASA.

ABOVE The ship’s calming interiors

OPPOSITE, BOTTOM LEFT Exploring Campbell Island

OPPOSITE, TOP Douglas Mawson retracing the route of Australia’s famous explorer

OPPOSITE, BOTTOM RIGHT Icebergs are the size of buildings in Antarctica

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“It’s often said that Antarctic tourism is about creating ambassadors,” Mortimer explains. “I believe that in an increasingly virtual world, visiting these extreme environments does affect people’s attitudes. Our guests are influential people – if they’ve been impacted and then meaningfully do something at home, that’s of great value.”

WHERE ANTARCTICA PUSHES BACK We pass sculpted icebergs the size of tower blocks and reach the edge of the sea ice – scattered floes drifting like solid clouds on a steel-grey sea. We layer up and climb into zodiacs for a closer look, weaving between the slabs and taking photos of baffled Adélie penguins. I fish out a chunk of ice and take a taste. It’s sweet – freshwater carved from some distant glacier. “This is the real Antarctica,” says Mortimer. “Colder, bolder, bigger. More ice, vast distances. It doesn’t suffer fools gladly.” And so it proves. Just 22 nautical miles from the coastline, Antarctica exerts its authority. Gusts of nearly 120 kilometres per hour and sideways snow batter our ship, and the gaps between the ice floes close. After several days trying to find a route through the sea of solid white, we’re forced to turn back. Everyone is devastated, but this is the reality of Antarctic adventure travel. It brings us closer to Mawson’s own experience: yes, we are travelling in considerably more comfort, but the wildness, uncertainty and the absolute authority of the weather remain unchanged, more than a century later.

Returning north, the team restores morale with a Christmas surprise. While the actual South Pole is out of reach deep in the continent, the South Magnetic Pole – a roving compass point that hovers off the Antarctic coast – is on our route home. No matter how biting the cold, the chance to ‘polar plunge’ where few have ever been is irresistible. That, ultimately, is the reward of a journey like this. It might be rough and unpredictable, but it opens the door to some of our planet’s most remote landscapes and a remarkable chapter of Australian history. The excitement is in the unknown; the luxury is in going at all.

JOURNEY NOTES Aurora Expeditions’ Antarctica voyages start from AU$19,800 per person, twin share, for the ‘Antarctic Explorer Express’. The 24-day ‘Mawson’s Antarctica’ voyage costs from AU$44,500 per person, twin share, and includes one night’s hotel stay in Hobart; all meals, snacks and soft drinks on board; beer and house wine with dinner; all shore excursions and zodiac cruises; lectures and guiding services; an expedition parka and complimentary Wi-Fi. aurora-expeditions.com

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I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H I N S I D E T R A V E L

INTO THE HEART OF JAPAN Private guiding, curated itineraries and authentic experiences make for seamless travel to the Land of the Rising Sun with InsideJapan W O R D S B Y J O C E LY N P R I D E

Sushi is the universal food language of Japan. It takes around 10 years to become a sushi master. However, on an eight-night ‘Insider Highlights of Japan’ trip with InsideJapan, you can don the apron and discover the subtleties of this culinary art form over a sumptuous lunch. A sushi masterclass is just one of the exclusive experiences that would be difficult to arrange independently, woven into a personalised itinerary designed to explore the Japan of your dreams. With private guides, you will get beneath the surface of iconic landmarks, gain an understanding of Japanese culture, and still have time to wander and wonder. TOKYO UNCOVERED The ‘Insider Highlights of Japan’ itinerary is completely tailorable, with a suggested start in Tokyo, where ancient shrines sit alongside dazzling skyscrapers and tranquil gardens juxtapose with neon-lit streets. Feel the buzz of the capital through the eyes of your Insider guide on an architectural tour, taking in everything from the glitzy emporiums of Ginza to the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, avant-garde art spaces and the Pritzker Prize-winning masterpiece Yoyogi, the Kenzo Tange-designed stadium built in 1964 for the Olympic Games. Nights are spent in the Michelin Three Key Palace Hotel, an elegant haven on the edge of the Imperial Palace Gardens, complete with a moat. Within the hotel, Esterre by Alain Ducasse is a Michelin-starred restaurant showcasing locally sourced

produce – or ask your Insider for what’s hot, and head out to explore. Let’s face it, as the world’s biggest foodie city, Tokyo is your oyster when it comes to dining. KYOTO CALLING It’s first class all the way as you whoosh by bullet train (shinkansen) to Kyoto, then are chauffeured to the Six Senses hotel, a haven based on sustainable luxury. Once Japan’s imperial capital, Kyoto’s labyrinth of streets and laneways are a feast for the senses. Your Insider guide knows the way to ancient temples, hidden gardens and artisan studios tucked behind stone walls. A hands-on workshop will introduce you to the Japanese art of kintsugi, where broken ceramics are repaired using lacquer dusted with powdered gold. Kyoto is also home to two exceptional cultural icons: geisha and kaiseki. You will experience both across an evening to treasure forever. This rare insight into ancient traditions showcases a multicourse haute-cuisine banquet based on seasonality, combined with exquisite geisha hospitality. On board the Tokaido shinkansen you’ll then head toward Mount Fuji for an up-close encounter with the majestic mountain. An overnight stay in an ultra-luxe ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) is ideal for uninterrupted views of one of nature’s greatest gifts. Savour the art of onsen and a kaiseki dinner before returning to the capital the following morning. Perched above the city overlooking the Tokyo Tower and

Imperial Palace, amid a sanctuary of greenery, a night in 1 Hotel Tokyo makes a fine finale for the tour. Cherry blossoms may steal the headlines, but the colours of autumn are arguably even more attractive. Speak with an InsideJapan specialist today and start planning your trip to Japan this autumn (November onwards). The tailorable ‘Insider Highlights of Japan’ itinerary includes eight nights in luxury hotels, breakfast daily, two dinners and three lunches. Transfers are by private vehicle and shinkansen. Full-day private guiding in Tokyo and Kyoto includes entrance fees, as do private workshop activities. The itinerary is a starting point and can be tailored to suit all travellers. From AU$21,809 per person, twin share.

TOP Freshly grated wasabi at a high-end sushi restaurant

insidejapantours.com

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LIVING THE

DREAM In New York State, the Hudson Valley offers a bucolic antidote to the relentless hustle of the Big Apple, where charming river towns, world-class dining and a thriving creative scene make it the perfect long-weekend escape

W O R D S B Y S U S A N G O U G H H E N LY

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ust 90 minutes north of Manhattan, an undulating country road is lined with orchards and rustic barns. Golden beech, oak orange and maple-leaf reds frame the scene in the technicolour hues of autumn, which is the ideal season to visit Upstate New York’s Hudson River Valley. Long the breadbasket and orchard of New York City, the Hudson Valley has emerged as a destination in its own right. Across the region, historic towns are being revitalised by a new generation of artists, chefs, designers and makers, who are transforming former factories, farmhouses and main streets into thriving centres of creativity.

While it’s become a hideaway for actors like Robert de Niro, Liam Neeson, Mandy Patankin, Rachel Weisz and Daniel Craig, the Hudson Valley has, according to New York publishing executive and local home owner Jamie Raab, “a very antiHamptons vibe”. It’s not showy, but it has plenty of substance, making it the perfect long-weekend getaway from New York City. Not only does it offer a welcome respite from the city, but it also retains plenty of edgy New York attitude so you can enjoy a culture fix alongside a generous dose of country air – plus, there are plenty of treasure-hunting opportunities and great food and wine.

HUDSON HISTORY Navigator Henry Hudson discovered the river that is now named after him and claimed the territory as the first Dutch settlement in North America in 1609. The English took over in 1664, renaming the New Netherland region as New York. In the mid-1800s a group of artists, who came to be known as the Hudson River School, started painting bucolic scenes of the Hudson Valley, which accelerated its allure among city folk in New York. But by the turn of the 20th century, numerous factories lined and seriously polluted the river. Without the activism and passion of locals like folk singer Pete Seeger, it still would be today. Instrumental in Congress passing the 1972 Clean Water Act, he also built the sleek Clearwater Sloop – a replica of sloops that had plied the Hudson River for decades – which has been educating and inspiring people to restore the river and its environment ever since. Today, those factories have been given new life as dynamic art spaces, design-led hotels and trendy breweries.

THE ALLURE OF THE VALLEY Wildflower Farms, Auberge Collection makes an ideal base. Offering a sanctuary from the freneticism of New York City, its 65 cabins, cottages and suites along with a serene spa are dotted around 57 hectares of wildflower meadows and woodland. Its regenerative agriculture farm, meanwhile, contributes to the rustic new-American menu at its airy wood-beamed Clay restaurant. While it’s tempting to cocoon yourself here, you’d be a fool if you didn’t take advantage of co-owner Kristen Rapoport’s curated itinerary of the very best local artisanal and antique offerings in intriguing shops and galleries that have a dash of Brooklyn panache. Rhinebeck is the toniest address, a flower-decked village that takes its historic preservation seriously on the eastern side of the Hudson River. Once the world’s violet capital, it’s home to the Beekman Arms, America’s oldest continuously operating hotel, which anchors the main intersection while

ABOVE Wildflower Farms © Noe DeWitt OPPOSITE Wildflower Farms offers cooking experiences using local produce OPENING PAGE The Culinary Institute of America © Al Nowak/ On Location Studios

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WHILE YO U ’ R E H E R E At the southern tip of the Hudson Valley, not far outside of New York City, make a reservation for dinner at the two Michelin-starred Blue Hill at Stone Barns, a trailblazing farm-to-table restaurant where most of the ingredients are sourced from the Barber family’s sustainable farm that surrounds your dining room.

G O O D TO K N OW If you don’t want to drive from Manhattan, ride the Amtrack train to Poughkeepsie where you can rent a car. The 90-minute trip offers the best views of the Hudson River.

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“You’d be a fool if you didn’t take advantage of co-owner Kristen Rapoport’s curated itinerary of the very best local artisanal and antique offerings in intriguing shops and galleries that have a dash of Brooklyn panache.” perfectly preserved Victorian homes radiate outwards along the banks of the river. The 2010 wedding of Chelsea Clinton at a Rhinebeck estate once owned by business magnate John Jacob Astor IV further added a paparazzi factor to the Valley. Airy all-day restaurant Little Goat is hipster New York tastemaker Taavo Somer’s love letter to the local community, its Mediterranean-inflected fare ideal for lunch. For dessert, head staight to Samuel’s Sweet Shop, owned by actors Paul Rudd and Jeffrey Dean Morgan.

VILLAGE LIFE Nearby in Hyde Park, visit the Gilded Age Vanderbilt Mansion, the country estate of one of the first American families of wealth, with its sweeping Hudson River vistas. Here, too, is the former home and presidential library of America’s longest serving president, Franklin Delano Roosevelt, as well as the grandiose Culinary Institute of America, the country’s top school for chefs, whose Beaux Arts Renaissance Revival Roth Hall commands a majestic view of the river. Time your visit for lunch at one of its excellent student-run restaurants before a tour and tasting at Dassai Blue Japanese sake brewery or a wine tasting at Milea Vineyards. Across the Hudson is the grittier but gentrifying town of Kingston – once a Dutch trading post, then the original capital of New York, and later a brick factory hub and an early IBM mainframe computer manufacturing centre. In recent years it has become one of the top ZIP codes in the US for address changes, as artists and musicians, furniture makers and freelancers in the gig economy moved out of the city. As a result, its urban fabric has changed dramatically, with funky vintage shops, retro bars, bakeries, art galleries and performance hubs popping up in reimagined spaces.

OPPOSITE, TOP Milea Winery in autumn OPPOSITE, BOTTOM LEFT Beacon’s Main Street © Grant Taylor

Rough Draft bookstore and bar, for instance, is located in a Dutch colonial stone building, while the quirky and dynamic Assembly concert venue has taken over the top floor of an old Catholic schoolhouse. Further south and closer to Manhattan, post-industrial Beacon started attracting artists after the 2003 opening of Dia Beacon, a huge conceptual arts space that reimagined a former Nabisco biscuit box factory. It highlights the cultural heft that proximity to New York brings – but it’s not alone. Manhattan contemporary art gallerist Ethan Cohen has also transformed the mid-century Beacon high school into the KuBe Art Center, which supports emerging international artists with studios, experimental art spaces and exhibitions. Head across the river to Storm King Art Center and you’ll find a powerhouse outdoor sculpture park with more than 120 large-scale installations by titans of the art world, including Alexander Calder, Louise Bourgeois and Maya Lin. All this creative energy has recharged Beacon’s mile-long Main Street, with artisanal shops catering to a discerning crowd. The Town Crier, where Pete Seeger used to play, is still going strong alongside newer live music venues, and the Roundhouse is an atmospheric restaurant in a former hat factory with dress-circle views of Fishkill Overlook Falls. English-born marketing executive Shelley SimmonsBloom and her husband left Manhattan five years ago and have never looked back. “It’s a really great ecosystem here, full of creative and entrepreneurial people. There’s so much going on that we’re never bored. There’s a real sense of community here between the river and the mountains, yet it’s still so close to the city.”

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THE SILK ROAD IN THE

SNOW In winter, Uzbekistan’s Silk Road cities take on a quieter magic, from the snow-dusted domes of Samarkand and Bukhara to the high mountain air of Amirsoy and the Soviet-era grandeur of Tashkent

WORDS BY CLAIRE BOOBBYER

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olts of silk, ingots of gold, ivory, fur, porcelain and jade plus leopard cats and monkeys were hoisted onto the backs of two-humped camels. These ‘ships of the desert’ walked thousands of miles on Silk Road trading routes that trailed 6,400 kilometres through China and Central Asia to Tehran, Cairo, Constantinople and beyond. For more than 1,500 years, the Central Asian Bactrian beasts plodded through desert, hot with sun and sand. But they also trekked through mountain passes and steppes that endured centuries of winters, too. At the heart of the Silk Road is Uzbekistan, which is experiencing a tourism boom thanks to visa-free entry for around 90 countries, not to mention better connectivity and increased economic investment. In 2025, it ranked among the seven fastest-growing destinations in the world in visitor numbers, according to UN tourism data. Most travellers visit the country’s ancient cities, lavishly decorated mosques and mausoleums, and enjoy its rich culture of cuisine and craft during the Northern Hemisphere’s spring and autumn, when the weather is mild. Snow cloaks the mountains from December to April, and the rest of the country is dusted white from January through February. Visiting in Uzbekistan’s winter, would I freeze?

INTO THE MOUNTAINS Amirsoy, a modern resort in the UNESCO-protected Tien Shan Mountains, is 90 minutes northeast of capital Tashkent. Amirsoy’s cable car rises above flanks of smooth snow revealing views of higher peaks, Maygashkan and Chimgan. It delivers me to the mountaintop Restaurant 2290, whose aluminium curves glint in the sun. I sip hot tea infused with mountain herbs and breathe in crisp, high-altitude air. Revived, I ride pillion on a snowmobile. We skirt the lower slopes of the resort and then cut through freshly powdered snow on an upward zoom followed by a hair-raising downward flight. It’s thrilling, with 180-degree views of the luminous peaks. Having done absolutely nothing to deserve it, I book a massage in the Amirsoy Hills hotel’s Red Rock hammam and spa, which is cosy with a heated onyx stone bed, sauna and Russian banya. I resist the urge to plunge into the ice pool, even though the views are winning. Why freeze after a warming massage? Instead, I cocoon myself in my room. It comes with a luxe furry blanket on the bed, sheets to sink into and a room temperature that makes me smile. Uzbekistan produces gallons of cheap natural gas, which is pumped into buildings, hotels, restaurants and museums at such a rate I wonder why I packed so many layers. More warmth is served at Amirsoy’s restaurants. ‘Herring under a fur coat’ is a colourful dish stacked with herring, beetroot, carrot and potato, typically eaten at New Year. It goes down very well with a bottle of Sarbast – a light Uzbek lager.

ABOVE Tashkent in winter © Inna Poka/iStock OPPOSITE Traditional dancers in Bukhara © Ulysse Pixel/iStock OPENING PAGE The dazzling architecture of Tashkent © Vadim Nefedov/iStock

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WHILE YO U ’ R E H E R E Visit Malika Sultan Gold Embroidery, a female-run Bukhara atelier specialising in zarduzlik gold embroidery; its bridal collection is dazzling. Learn the history of specialist ceramics at the 250-year-old G’ijduvon Pottery near Bukhara. Tour Bagizagan Winery, near Samarkand, where five generations of winemakers produce organic Uzbek wine and cognac. In Samarkand, learn about fashion and style from Elena Ladik of Happy Bird Art Gallery, and create a majolica tile from a craftmaster at The Registan. At Amankutan village in the Zarafshan mountains, witness the process of making tandyr-baked lamb with juniper before tucking in at a roadside restaurant.

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Back in Tashkent, I tuck into traditional cuisine such as steamed manti dumplings stuffed with beef, and moreish lamb shashlik, Uzbekistan’s famous marinated chargrilled meat, at upscale restaurant Afsona. A dry Uzbek white wine, made from the regional bayan shirey grape by MSA Family Winery, is an unexpected pour – I get a taste of Uzbekistan’s status as the main wine-producing country in Central Asia, with 300 types of grapes grown.

A SOVIET CITY IN SNOW Afsona’s dishes make excellent fuel for a tour of the modernist architecture of the capital. Much of Tashkent’s ancient city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1966. Out of the devastation, a model Soviet city emerged. The underground system (the galaxy-like Cosmonauts station for one) with elaborate subterranean Soviet art is fascinating. Above ground, there’s the 375-metre-high spindle of the TV Tower, the tubular Peoples’ Friendship Palace, and the snow-sprinkled, spaceage, mosaic-decorated dome of the Chorsu Bazaar, brimming with meats, dried fruits and vegetables. Uzbekistan hopes for UNESCO protection of its Tashkent Modernist architecture. As I mingle with the smells of dried-apricot-meets-horsemeat-meets-baked-tandyr amid the stalls, a slim, long brown slab catches my eye. The last time I saw ox tongue on a plate was in the vast dining room of a Moscow hotel on the first night of a school trip in the 1980s – and unsurprisingly, I’d refused to try it. I have been intrigued by the Soviet Union, and now its independent states, ever since. Back then I’d journeyed on a trundling night train from Moscow to Leningrad, as it was known, passing through desolate steppe and pranking about in the carriages. Opened 10 years ago, the high-speed rail service between Tashkent and Bukhara is much more comfortable, not to mention quicker. Think spacious seats, plenty of luggage space, heated toilets, and complimentary croissants and tea. My journey to Bukhara, 600 kilometres away, zips by in 4.5 hours. But it’s not until I travel between Bukhara and Samarkand (256 kilometres and two hours) that I glimpse the grainy, biscuity Kyzylkum Desert, tufted with plants and framed by telegraph poles that remind me of that Soviet journey some 40 years ago.

BLUE DOMES AND GOLDEN LIGHT Bukhara, in a hue of desert beige, is an ancient city with an extraordinary brick fortress and one of the oldest surviving mosques in Central Asia, built on the site of a Zoroastrian temple where locals once worshipped fire. A skyline of peacock blues reveals the Po-i-Kalyan madrasa, mosque and minaret. The towering beauty of the minaret impressed Genghis Khan so much, it stopped him from destroying it. I, too, find beauty in craft, textile and painting. At an atelier class I learn about suzani (Persian for needle), a hand-

“The layering of plov perfectly reflects the nature of Uzbekistan, with its mix of ancient lore, Zoroastrianism, Islam and Soviet history and its spoken languages of Uzbek, Russian and Tajik.”

embroidered textile traditionally made by brides as part of a dowry. Bulbous pink pomegranates represent fertility and wealth; chilli peppers protect against the evil eye. “These were messages to the husband’s family,” my guide Viktoriya Yalanskaya explains. “The mother-in-law would look at the decoration of the suzani and not her future daughter-inlaw’s face.” Nearby, I meet Davlet Toshev, a miniature painter, calligrapher and a restorer of old books for some of the world’s most famous libraries. His work was showcased at the inaugural Bukhara Biennale in 2025. The paints on canvases and the glimmer of woven textile threads colour my experience of Uzbekistan. But so do the tinsel, baubles and twinkling fairy lights – the trademark bling of Christmas that the country dresses up in for New Year celebrations. The ultimate light show, though, I find at the Registan, a UNESCO-protected cinematic collection of turquoise domes and madrasas, dressed in tiles of lapis lazuli and entered via monumental porches. Their facades are patterned in floral and geometric patterns, with the latter spelling out the names of Allah and the Prophet Muhammad in Kufic script, a signature calligraphy technique of Timurid-era decorative tiles. At dusk the square is floodlit, all that beauty and craftsmanship bathed in magical light. It is breathtaking. Once at the heart of the caravan trade jostling with camels and traders, today the Registan brims with thousands of visitors in the warmer months. In the snow, just a few other people mill around.

OPPOSITE, BOTTOM LEFT Ornate mosque columns in Bukhara © Thankful Photography/iStock OPPOSITE, TOP A dramatic ancient oasis along the Silk Road © Oz Balci/iStock

OPPOSITE, BOTTOM RIGHT Weaving a traditional silk carpet © M Lenny/iStock

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Inside the Tilya-Kori Madrasa, the ceiling of gold and midnight blue is spellbinding. But just when I imagine there can’t be anything more beautiful, I enter the nearby mausoleum of Timur (Tamerlane). It’s a knockout. Timur was a 14th-century conqueror and founder of the vast Timurid Empire. I see his jade-covered tomb, but my eyes are drawn upwards to an exquisite blue-and-gold honeycombed arch and then above, the domed ceiling that settles eternally above his final resting place. Samarkand has more to deliver, though. The Shah-i-Zinda, meaning ‘Living King’, refers to Samarkand’s patron saint and a cousin of Muhammad. It’s a tight warren of tall turquoise, teal and azure tombs banded in exquisite decoration of stars, geometric shapes and calligraphy. As I peek in each one, snow begins to settle on the domes.

BREAD, PLOV AND TANGLED HISTORIES I want to get acquainted with a different kind of dome for lunch – a traditional tandyr wood-fired oven. With the help of women from a village bakery, I shape and flatten dough and stick my hand into the red-hot oven to place my bread circle on the ceiling. After tucking into this soft, warm bread as a starter, I go to check out my main. Plov, the national dish, is made by layering cloth with ingredients: beef, onions, cumin, pepper, carrots and rice. It is a surprise to learn it’s not a onepot mix – the slow cook and rich seam of meat make it the ultimate comfort dish.

The layering of plov perfectly reflects the nature of Uzbekistan, with its mix of ancient lore, Zoroastrianism, Islam and Soviet history and its spoken languages of Uzbek, Russian and Tajik. And, like the threads of the Silk Road and that of its textile traditions, I’ve willingly become entangled in its rich and elaborate soul.

JOURNEY NOTES Flights from Sydney or Melbourne to Tashkent are with China Southern Airlines via Guangzhou, or via Kuala Lumpur or Dubai. Uzbekistan Airways flies from uala Lumpur to Tashkent. Abercrombie & Kent offers Uzbekistan tours. uzairways.com, abercrombiekent.com

ABOVE A colourful mosque on the streets of Bukhara © Lulilia Leonteva

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HIMALAYAN ADVENTURE IN LADAKH

There are moments you remember all your life

Call 1300 589 717, speak to your travel advisor, or visit www.abercrombiekent.com

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VOYAGE OF THE

SOUL A week-long journey through Indonesia’s remote Banda Islands aboard a traditional phinisi yacht provides a rare opportunity to experience the freedom that comes with travelling off the beaten path

WORDS BY LUKE ABRAHAMS

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plendid isolation. It’s the topic du jour, especially among luxury travellers who trade in whispered recommendations. Rare though these experiences might be, some still do exist in the world today. And in a corner of Indonesia, I am living one of them aboard a traditional phinisi cruiser christened Silolona. After a 12-hour night voyage following a lengthy flight from London to the port of Ambon, I wake up dazed, confused and a little seasick as I’m confronted by the sight of a small volcanic archipelago in Indonesia’s blissfully remote Banda Sea: the Banda Islands. As the sun shines high over the ship’s charcoalblack sails, the sound of drums and chants echo in the air. Excited, I beeline for the bowsprit and perilously sling myself over to catch a glimpse of all the action. On either side of the boat a welcome brigade of multi-generational Banda locals shouts blessings and gleeful greetings as we slowly begin to moor our yacht in the shadow of Banda Api, the island group’s famous active volcano.

ALL ABOARD I soon learn that Silolona, named after a beloved local god, is no stranger to these parts. The celebrated cruiser that my group of four and I are on has often been described as one of the most beautiful handmade boats ever built. Made to measure and hewn from ironwood and teak, she was the vision of the late American entrepreneur Patti Seery, who first fell in love with this pirate-ship-style of vessel back in 1981. Fast forward to 2002 – and after falling head over heels for Indonesia – Seery

found herself in Kalimantan, a place where generations of boatbuilders have crafted giant ironwood trunks into some of the finest cruisers the country has ever seen. It inspired her own – a 50-metre-long, five-cabin vessel launched in Sulawesi in 2004 – which I will call home for the next seven days. Below deck, five spacious cabins – all named after iconic Indonesian destinations, from Bali to Sumba – are cosily designed and kitted out in hand-carved timbers, day beds, crisp white linens, tribal ikats, intricate sculptures and a wealth of patterned pillows and poufs. Upstairs, the sun deck – scattered with loungers and cushions – is just as pretty, and the perfect place from which to survey the world under each of the yacht’s dramatic sails. The respect for Silolona is unwaveringly devoted. As I jump onto one of the kora koras (traditional longboats) manned by our giddy welcomers, we circle her three times echoing good wishes and fortunes for the days at sea ahead. Finally, the commotion of ritual pauses and we head for Banda Neira, the ‘big island’, to – as my fellow travellers joke – explore uncharted territory with our new friends. These islands first became famous in the 17th century, and once fuelled global exploration for their most sought-after prize: nutmeg. The Dutch later secured English-held Rhun in the Bandas as part of the treaty settlement that also saw them relinquish Manhattan.

ABOVE Silolona at sea in the Bandas OPPOSITE Voyages on Silolona visit remote communities OPENING PAGE The Banda Islands unite blissful beaches and jungle-clad villages

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W H I L E YO U ’ R E HERE Visit the local markets for fresh produce and to sample unique tropical fruits, spices and nuts – including candied nutmeg and kenari nuts.

G O O D TO K N OW The volcano trek is tough, so go fully prepared. Hiking boots with good grip are a must, as is a fan if you are visiting in the more humid months.

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FROM BEACHES TO RUINS Today, Banda remains charmingly humble. From its buzzing harbour to its scattered beaches, fortification ruins and storied folklore fuse with mindboggling scenes of pastoral modernity. Technicolor thatched houses – of Chinese, Arab and Indian architectural influences – line streets alongside stone colonialstyle mansions that snake up to the island’s volcanic precipice. Then there’s the frenetic market, the beating heart of the island. Stalls filled with spices, fresh vegetables and exotic fruits are trailed by dozens of curious and giggling children, along with stray cats not afraid to challenge you for their next meal. We’ve all heard tales of ‘the lost’ travelling to Asia to ‘find themselves’. They’re the kind of stories groups often joke and snarl over, and yet I quickly discover there is some truth to these tales. Walking the streets in my English wares, there is something extremely liberating about being part of a world where nobody speaks like me, looks like me or dresses like me. There are hundreds of people around me and yet I stroll, splendidly alone, and with no other westerner in sight. It is utterly freeing. Over the next few days our tour of the islands takes us across the sea to Banda Besar, the home of nutmeg. Here, life is eternally simple. Men flock to farms to work the fields, women spend their days processing and cracking open nuts and spices, and mischievous youngsters frolic in the streets and jump into the sea to cool off once the last school bell rings. Walking uphill through the village of Lonthoir (home to the island’s historic Old Mosque), the landscape quickly morphs into a vision of lush isolated green. The scent of mint, lemongrass and cloves fills the air as I glimpse the island’s vast nutmeg plantations, all sheltered under giant kenari trees. Until the mid-19th century the Banda Islands were the world’s only source of nutmeg and mace, produced from native trees. Their worth was so great that after a rebellion against the Dutch in 1611, the islands were subsequently invaded to gain full trade control over the spice. As a result, more than 2,500 Bandanese were slaughtered in an act of genocide ordered under the command of the Dutch, virtually wiping out the islands’ Indigenous inhabitants. All that remains of their existence is their modest practices. To this day, farmers still harvest the spice using a gai pala, a traditional wooden picker that hooks the fruit to separate it from the tree’s branch, something local nutmeg picker Marlan tells me is to “honour their ancestors”.

UNMISSABLE SIGHTS While there’s no denying Banda has a brutal past, today there is no shortage of beauty to behold. Naturally, on the sea is where Silolona truly shines, and every day there is plenty to do, no matter the hour. One morning we sail off at the crack of dawn to climb Banda Api, an active stratovolcano that last erupted in 1988. Though the climb is gruellingly humid, the effort and endless sweat (and panting) is worth it just for the view and to catch sight of scorching steam vents in the volcano’s cavernous caldera.

Then there’s the archipelago’s star attraction: the reefs. Off a massive 30-metre drop set underneath an isolated rock, Goris Atawuwur – Silolona’s first employee and Indonesia’s first PADIcertified diver – takes me out on my inaugural discovery dive to explore Banda’s watery underworld. Luminescent with colour, steep walls of brain and sea-fan coral harbour all kinds of marine life: green sea turtles, reef sharks, myriad rainbow-hued fish and giant eels. These reefs, Atawuwur later tells me, are also among the world’s best to swim alongside migratory schooling hammerhead sharks, who come here to feed from September to November. The rest of our days are spent beach hopping with locals and feasting on Indonesian classics, from beef rendang to satay and snapper. On my last morning before heading home, I sit staring at the stars, watching dawn break over Ambon, our final destination and where our voyage began. As the sun rises like a semi-luminous halo over the horizon, my heart skips with excitement. I spot more than 50 dolphins frolicking in the water. For a split second, it feels like it is just them and me in the world, a realisation broken only by the fact that my adventure on the seas is about to come to an abrupt and bittersweet end. I have seen many amazing things during my 10 years as a travel writer, but nothing has been as freeing and blissfully peaceful as this week-long affair aboard Silolona. And for that, I thank Seery – visionary of the seas, eternally.

JOURNEY NOTES Silolona private charters start from US$18,700 (about AU$27,850), sleeping up to 12. Silolona Sojourns’ second vessel Si Datu Bua can be chartered from US$12,000 (about AU$16,600), sleeping up to six. Rates includes all meals, diving, scheduled activities and on-board accommodation. silolona.com

ABOVE Cabins feature Indonesian designs

OPPOSITE, BOTTOM LEFT Remote isles within reach

OPPOSITE, TOP Dining on Silolona’s deck

OPPOSITE, BOTTOM RIGHT World-class diving

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CITY GUIDE

Hong Kong Hong Kong is famously home to the world’s most vertical skyline, a dazzling collection of neon lights and skyscrapers reflected across the busy waters of Victoria Harbour. But this is a lso a city of thrilling contrasts and constant surprises, no matter how many times you visit. It’s a place where you can spend the morning exploring sleepy fishing villages, the afternoon in jaw-dropping museums and the evening eating your way through one of the great culinary capitals, from exquisite Michelin-starred dining rooms to humble but equally delicious dai pai dong street stalls. In a destination that fully embraces both eastern and western cultures, gleaming modern glass towers rise above centuries-old temples; early morning hikers hit hundreds of mountain trails across more than 260 islands, while millions more commute in air-conditioned comfort. Hong Kong’s incredible variety of experiences makes it a rewarding final destination – not just a stopover.

WORDS BY CHRIS DWYER

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THE ICONS

ART AND CULTURE

Victoria Harbour & Victoria Peak A pilgrimage to Victoria Peak is a rite of passage for any visitor – nowhere else matches its vantage for soaking up the city’s extraordinary geographical and cultural diversity. Those views remain one of the world’s greatest urban spectacles as jungle-clad mountains, the shimmering harbour and endless skyscrapers meet in a landscape that somehow feels both natural and man-made. The Peak Tram is the most memorable and iconic way up, but locals will tell you that real pleasure also comes from slowly taking the hour-long walk back down into the city, under the cool shade of banyan trees. For the perfect finale, end your stroll aboard the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour and revel in the maritime energy of this eye-opening waterway.

The West Kowloon Cultural District has reinforced Hong Kong’s global reputation as a serious arts capital. M+, the museum of visual culture, houses one of Asia’s most significant contemporary collections, while the Hong Kong Palace Museum celebrates imperial art treasures and the Xiqu Centre presents the rich traditions of Cantonese opera. Seasonal cultural highlights include the feast for the senses that is the Dragon Boat Festival in June, Chinese New Year, and MidAutumn Festival’s spectacular Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance in late September – an age-old tradition where a 67-metre dragon snakes its way through the streets in a haze of smoke. Then, from late October to November, the Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival takes over the harbourfront as dishes from the city’s most celebrated chefs pair with sensational vintages from across the planet.

Tai Kwun Few places capture modern Hong Kong’s blend of heritage and innovation better than Tai Kwun, the former Central Police Station compound turned dynamic cultural hub. Beautifully restored heritage buildings and richly layered architecture set the scene for contemporary galleries, performance spaces and a standout line-up of dining and drinking spots, from 001 and Dragonfly to The Chinese Library – famed for its sensational dim sum brunch – Madame Fu and the atmospheric Lock Cha Teahouse.

WINE & DINE

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT Victoria Harbour at sunset © John Huang; classic yum cha © Dean Alexander; views from a suite at Rosewood Hong Kong

Hong Kong has earned its reputation as one of the world’s great food cities. Exceptional eating exists at every level, from the 77 Michelin-starred venues spanning luxurious fine dining through to local street food. Days often start with the beloved Cantonese tradition of yum cha at Luk Yu Teahouse, or go local at Kam Fai Dim Sum. Take your pick from dozens of tempting dim sum as bamboo steamers arrive filled with har gow or siu mai dumplings, delicate cheung fun rice noodle rolls or flaky HK-style egg custard tarts. Come lunchtime, duck into a cha chaan teng – one of Hong Kong’s beloved local cafes – where strong milk tea and a pineapple bun are the perfect pick-me-up as the city hums around you. Institutions such as Australian Dairy Company, Waso Café and Lin Heung Lau are all worth a stop, while elegant afternoon tea at The Peninsula remains one of Hong Kong’s most enduring rituals. As the sun sets, Hong Kong serves up the globe on a plate, with virtually every cuisine imaginable on offer. The city’s bar scene is just as dazzling, from internationally acclaimed venues such as Bar Leone – currently topping the World’s 50 Best Bars list – to stylish favourites including Mius, Montana, The Diplomat, Savory Project, Darkside and Ozone, each renowned for inventive cocktails.

NATURAL BEAUTY One of the biggest misconceptions about Hong Kong is that it is all urban. In fact, 40 per cent of the territory is protected countryside. Head to Sai Kung for ancient volcanic cliffs and hidden coves, explore the fishing village of Tai O where houses stand on stilts, or catch a ferry to Cheung Chau or Lamma Island, where life moves at a noticeably slower pace. Sport is another major draw, with the Hong Kong Sevens long regarded as one of the world’s great sporting parties, now staged at the impressive Kai Tak Stadium. The Hong Kong International Races reinforce the city’s horse racing credentials at Sha Tin, while Happy Valley’s atmospheric night races take place most Wednesday evenings.

STAY HERE A contemporary beauty, Rosewood Hong Kong offers stunning suites with floor-to-ceiling windows framing Victoria Harbour, while Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong (reopening in October after an extensive renovation) remains Central’s most storied stay thanks to stellar dining and a sublime spa. Four Seasons and Regent are harbourfront heavyweights, Island Shangri-La is a family-friendly urban sanctuary, and the new Kimpton Tsim Sha Tsui is a buzzy Kowloon base. The Peninsula, meanwhile, delivers timeless grandeur and exceptional service.

GETTING AROUND Fast, affordable and easy to navigate, Hong Kong’s MTR ranks among the world’s best public-transport networks, while the historic Ding Ding trams and The Star Ferry offer some of the city’s best value attractions. For an entirely different perspective, take the Central-Mid-Levels Escalator through hillside neighbourhoods Central and Soho, where coffee shops, antiques stores and hidden eateries reveal whole new sides to a fascinating city that keeps surprising visitors, time after time. L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U | 9 5

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A truly golden hour

Halfway across Victoria Harbour

Come for this.

Discoverhongkong.com Presented by Hong Kong Tourism Board

Just after sunset

Stay for that.

Kowloon Peak

A NATION FORGED BY NATURE Carved by volcanoes, glaciers and the relentless North Atlantic, Iceland’s landscapes are among the world’s most dramatic. Yet it’s the people who call them home – and the traditions, resilience and ingenuity they’ve cultivated – that bring this extraordinary island to life

A PHOTO ESSAY BY ASSOULINE

THIS PAGE Exploring Iceland’s volcanic landscapes © Magnus Andersen OPPOSITE The many faces of this dramatic island © Anna Ósk Erlingsdóttir

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THIS PAGE Fishing has long been an Icelandic industry © Michael Novotny OPPOSITE Otherworldly landscapes await © Anna Isabella Photography 1 0 0 | L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U

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THIS PAGE Hunkering down on ice © Adam Sébire/Stocksy OPPOSITE Icelandic pride © Reuter Raymond/Sygma/ Getty Images 1 0 2 | L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U

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THIS PAGE Traditional garb © Binni/Icelandic Handicraft Association OPPOSITE An Icelandic local © Arctic-Images/Getty Images 1 0 4 | L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U

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THIS PAGE Chilling with Icelandic horses © Collart Hervé/Sygma/ Getty Images OPPOSITE An old fishery warehouse © Alex Ramsay/ Alamy Stock Photo

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THIS PAGE Fishing boats at dock © Vasilis Ververidis/ Alamy Stock Photo

Iceland Epic is on sale now for AU$185

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linger

DIOR SPA, THE ROYAL SCOTSMAN, A BELMOND TRAIN CREDIT: PIERRE MOUTON

P L AC E S TO D W E L L F O R T H E D E S I G N D I L E T TA N T E

THE CHANCERY ROSEWOOD LO S C O G L I O R O YA L M A N S O U R TA M U D A B AY T H E H E R M I TAG E H O T E L VOMO ISLAND FIJI 2 5 H O U R S H O T E L T H E O LY M P I A H O T E L B A L Z AC PA R I S THE PENINSULA BEIJING

PICTURED One&Only Kea Island, Greece © Rupert Peace

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A SENSE OF

SCALE London’s luxury hotels are going bigger than ever, with sprawling corner suites, art-filled residences and deeply personalised service redefining the high-end stay. Look no further than the new Chancery Rosewood

WORDS BY JENNY HEWETT

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OPENING IMAGE Luxe living in the Chancery’s Grand Premier Grosvenor Suite © Ben Anders

ABOVE The Chancery Rosewood’s dramatic lobby © Ben Anders

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3 M O R E U LT R ALU X U R I O U S LO N D O N S U I T E S HAM YARD HOTEL As well as housing a 1950s bowling alley, this hotel’s explosion of colour by interiors whiz Kit Kemp features a handful of suites, including a top-floor, 145-square-metre Two Bedroom Terrace Suite with skyline vistas and dual king beds. firmdalehotels.com

THE EMORY This all-suite Belgravia hotel from the Maybourne Group believes in going big or going home. Among its suites and studios is The Emory Penthouse, a 300-squaremetre space that sleeps six and occupies the entirety of the top floor, complete with a private fitness area. maybourne.com

BROADWICK SOHO The one-bedroom, 89-squaremetre Penthouse Terrace at this fanciful Soho spot features whimsical touches such as a one-of-a-kind brass elephant bar cart, exotic wallpaper, handmade furniture and a Giallo Siena marble bathroom. broadwicksoho.com

he biggest trend in hotels right now isn’t sustainability or sleep optimisation. It’s spatial recognition. As I’ve discovered over two summer stints in London, including recently at The Chancery Rosewood London, corner suites are now the ultimate accommodation aspiration. The supersized, ultra-luxurious retreats often benefit from panoramic views, generous footprints and more natural light. But they’re somewhat elusive – you need to know they exist to request them. As well as being home to some of the world’s most iconic heritage properties, London is experiencing its biggest wave of high-end hotel openings since 2014, according to an industry report published in late 2025. And, blissfully, many come with space to spare. On previous visits, I’ve stayed in plush corner iterations at Belmond Cadogan in Chelsea and all-suite hotel The Emory in Belgravia, both exceptional. The latest to join the ranks is The Chancery Rosewood London, overlooking Grosvenor Square, where I stay in a 135-square-metre corner suite that is the most luxurious hotel space I’ve ever slept in.

LIVING HISTORY Among the 144 suites inside this reimagined, heritage-listed building in Mayfair is my Grand Premier Grosvenor Suite. With seven large windows looking out onto lush greenery and an oversized living room and bedroom with Carrara marble ensuite, it feels palatial. Royal grandeur is, not surprisingly, a theme that feels effortless in London. And Mayfair seems to be the setting for it, with heritage brand The Dorchester recently announcing the launch of their Royal Suite in the hotel’s Park Lane address in early June – the final phase in the first significant update to the hotel in 30 years. The space will occupy a vast section of the eighth floor, and is a nod to British landscapes with ’50s-inspired decor, pastels, floral wallpaper and patterned carpets. My corner suite at The Chancery Rosewood is divided into three distinct spaces and features a marble dining table, fully stocked fridge with complimentary snacks and soft drinks, a retro-style bar cart, walk-in wardrobe and an L-shaped corner lounge. Designed in 1960 by Finnish-American modernist architect Eero Saarinen, the building once housed the US Embassy. Today, its halls are adorned with 700 works of art set amid an opulent colour scheme of jade, rose, rich timber and brushed gold. To contextualise each of the works, an art concierge is on hand to offer guided tours and insight into the collection, which includes a golden sculpture at rooftop terrace Eagle Bar that was crafted by American abstract expressionist artist Theodore Roszak using aluminium from a B-52 bomber.

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A MOVING FEAST The art, of course, extends to the suites, including collagestyle works by American surrealist Anthony Grace. While maximalist aesthetics have been on trend in London in recent years – such as the riotous townhouse-inspired concept in the Broadwick Soho Penthouse Terrace suite, and the bowling alley and colour-filled spaces of the top-floor Two Bedroom Suite at the Ham Yard Hotel in Soho – the Chancery Rosewood has enlivened its spaces with a little more restraint. Should I wish to admire the artworks in my room all day, I can simply call on the 24-hour butler service that’s exclusive to guests staying in the hotel’s Signature Suites. On my first morning, I order the indulgent breakfast of green shakshuka – baked eggs with kale, spinach and green chilli – to the room, courtesy of Mediterranean restaurant Serra.

ABOVE, TOP A warm welcome at The Chancery Rosewood © Ben Anders ABOVE, BOTTOM The hotel’s wellness facilities © Ben Anders

OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM TOP The Chancery’s sleek dining offerings; City views from a suite. Both images © Ben Anders

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As I reluctantly change out of my robe and slippers to venture beyond my suite, I find no less than eight restaurants and bars to choose from. New York City Italian-American import Carbone serves hearty dishes like spicy vodka rigatoni, while Japanese concept Tobi Masa offers high-end omakase. Afternoon tea, meanwhile, is on the menu at Jacqueline, named after former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. It’s refreshing to find lighter options at both Serra and all-day cafe GSQ, which serves a variety of salads as well as sandwiches including a delicious salt-beef Reuben.

GLOW UP It’s not just generous space, exquisite aesthetics and complimentary extras that elevate a suite to ultra-luxury status. Exclusivity and bespoke service is honed in other areas, such as the fully flexible arrivals and departures offered to all guests at The Chancery Rosewood. With no fixed check-in or check-out time, I never have to worry about setting my alarm. That convenience extends to other suites across the city. At The Emory in Belgravia, my personal butler delivers a topped-up Oyster Card to use the London Tube, and a black BMW 7 series returns a speaker I left in the room, to my next accommodation. Slow mornings at The Chancery Rosewood also lead nicely into the hotel’s spa and wellness offerings. With a 25-metre indoor pool, the subterranean Asaya Spa affords a considered element of exclusivity, with direct access via a private elevator from each floor. A peek in the fitness centre reveals the goldbeige Artis Line from Technogym, rather than the standard black equipment you find at most hotels. During my stay, I have the chance to try out the 90-minute ‘Neurofusion Treatment’ massage by MoodsPro Enhanced Rituals, which involves aromatherapy to provide a multisensory experience. My therapist pinpoints and releases muscle tension in my glutes using hot stones and finishes with a face and scalp massage. Surely it’s only a matter of time before my Grand Premier Grosvenor Suite gets its own sauna.

HOTEL NOTES Rates in a Grand Premier Grosvenor Suite at The Chancery Rosewood London start from £7,610 (about AU$14,673) a night. rosewoodhotels.com

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SHORT STAYS

Lo Scoglio BY R O N B AY

REVIEW BY SHERIDEN RHODES

At Lo Scoglio, an Italian-inspired farmhouse in Byron Bay’s hinterland, a weekend unfolds at a slower, more considered pace

rriving at Lo Scoglio, the afternoon light spills over undulating hills, bathing handchipped limestone walls in golden hues. The four-bedroom stone farmhouse, reminiscent of neoclassical mansions dotted along the sea on Sicily’s southeast coast, looks like it has been there forever – precisely the owners’ intention. But this isn’t Italy, or anywhere near it. It’s the exclusive Coopers Shoot enclave in Byron Bay’s verdant hills, where biodynamic farmers Angelica and Charlie Arnott – he a descendant of the Arnott biscuit empire and she a member of ’90s band The Chantoozies – share their sprawling Italian-inspired farmhouse with a fortunate few. Inspired by Angelica’s Sicilian roots, the property is a nod to the farmhouses she grew up visiting in Italy, melding traditional Mediterranean architecture and craftsmanship with the beauty of Australia’s eastern coastline.

Tucked privately behind gates on a meticulous one-hectare northern New South Wales estate, exclusive-use Lo Scoglio is underpinned by a sustainable approach to luxury. There are earthy tones, all-natural materials and low-toxicity finishes, with Tigmi Trading furniture, 18th-century Italian artwork and century-old hardwood floors throughout. Embroidered linen bedspreads and canopies grace beds, while brass wall sconces, vintage Italian mirrors, wooden beams and antique basins feature across the house. It’s an easy place to settle into. While Lo Scoglio suits larger groups, it also feels surprisingly intimate for a longoverdue catch-up with an old friend – the kind of setting where conversation stretches effortlessly across the day.

COASTAL BLISS We take our time exploring the property, with views across the hinterland at every turn. Timeless European oak and aged marble complement products crafted by local Northern Rivers artisans and hand-selected Italian pieces, including ceramics by artist Elise Eales as part of Lo Scoglio’s new

LEFT Lo Scoglio sits pretty in Byron Bay’s afternoon sun

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“Later, aperitivo in hand, we wander the manicured grounds barefoot, watching an eagle circle high above Bundjalung Country as the sun drops behind the hills.”

‘Heritage Bowls’ collection. Each of the four spacious guest rooms (there’s a second master downstairs) opens to terraces scented with rosemary and citrus, and the private onebedroom villa, Lo Scoglio Piccolo, is positioned a discreet distance away up a jasmine-lined pathway. My Visconte Suite encircles a sun-washed loggia, and has a luxurious king bed, ensuite with roll-top bath and a desk that is every writer’s dream. But work can wait. Without even trying, I’m already moving slower, devices all but forgotten as I began to embrace la dolce vita. Just like in many homes, the kitchen – with a cafe-style banquette, seven-metre marble island and butler’s pantry – quickly becomes a natural place to gather over food and wine, with a nearby vintage oak dining table set for long, laid-back meals. Lo Scoglio offers larder packages for purchase, and we make good use of the all-Italian, organic-staples option that includes fresh herbs, Italian wine and pasta. After rustling up a simple fettuccini for lunch – supplemented with fresh-plucked produce from the veggie patch – we dine alfresco under the pergola before retreating to our suites for a siesta. In the afternoon, it’s tempting to stay put on the sun lounges by the pool, perfectly positioned for long views across the hillside. But Lo Scoglio’s wellness offering, which includes a yoga deck, gymnasium, infrared sauna and ice bath, motivates us to squeeze in a quick weights workout followed by a stint in the sauna.

ABOVE, FROM TOP The property’s fitness centre; design nods to Italy; a perfect pool perch RIGHT All spaces are decorated to inspire calm 1 1 8 | L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U

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COUNTRY CALM Later, aperitivo in hand, we wander the manicured grounds barefoot, watching an eagle circle high above Bundjalung Country as the sun drops behind the hills. Eventually, and reluctantly (Lo Scoglio is hard to leave) we depart for nearby Bangalow, continuing the weekend’s Italian thread over dinner at Ciao Mate, a charming hatted neighbourhood restaurant. The cosy eatery, headed up by one of Australia’s leading sustainable chefs, is known for its wood-fired pizza (salami served with stracciatella is a standout), small plates and knockout negronis. In the morning, birdsong drifts through open windows as we savour the last moments of our stay. We’re only minutes from Byron’s rolling waves, but Lo Scoglio has transported us to Italy – minus the jet-lag.

PROPERTY NOTES The main house at Lo Scoglio sleeps 10 people, while the studio sleeps two. Rates start from AU$3,750 per night for a minimum three-night stay. Private chefs can be arranged to cater in-house, and private helicopter charters are available. loscoglio.com.au

RIGHT, TOP Sleek soaks in the Visconte Suite’s tub RIGHT, MIDDLE Dining on organic produce is a highlight

RIGHT, BOTTOM Rooms and suites feature natural materials like wood and stone

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I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H C A T H A Y PA C I F I C

LOUNGE LIFE Airport time in Beijing is better than ever in Cathay Pacific’s redesigned flagship lounge WO R D S BY A M A N DA WO O D S

Whether you’re arriving at the airport early or have time to spare between flights, a good airport lounge is a gamechanger. Rather than aimlessly roaming past shops while trying to decide which overpriced and underwhelming cafe or bar to take a seat in, airport lounges are a traveller’s oasis where the energy shifts the moment you walk through those doors. As part of a HK$100 billion (AU$18.2 billion) investment into its fleet, cabin, lounge products and digital innovation, Cathay Pacific is waving an upgrade wand over some of its existing lounges and introducing new spaces, including its first New York lounge in JFK International Airport later this year. As well as experiencing the recently reopened The Wing, First and the new look The Bridge at Hong Kong International Airport, travellers flying to and from Beijing can leave the hustle and bustle of the Beijing Capital International Airport outside as they step into Cathay Pacific’s redesigned and refreshed Beijing lounge. STYLE AND SUBSTANCE Found in Terminal 3, the new 843-square-metre lounge feels like a luxurious home away from home. If your home is lucky enough to have a noodle bar and teahouse, that is. In Beijing, Cathay Pacific’s signature Noodle Bar serves tasty dan dan noodles along with regional specialties including the deep savoury flavours of Beijing bean-paste noodles. Guests can also help themselves to quick bites, hot dishes and desserts in the Food Hall, where international flavours can be found, while in the Terrace expansive windows and an open ceiling verandah let the natural light flow in as the drinks flow. Alongside cocktails and Laurent-Perrier

La Cuvée Brut champagne, this is also a chance to slow down for teatime. Following the response to their first Teahouse at The Pier, Business in Hong Kong International Airport, Cathay Pacific now honours ancient Chinese tea culture in their Beijing lounge, too. Here a Cathay tea specialist can guide you through the origin and flavour profiles of blends sourced from around China, before freshly preparing your pot. Around the lounge, cherry wood and refined brass create a warm and comforting space, where a curated selection of pieces by creatives from Hong Kong and Beijing span multiple generations. The collection includes a shimmering ink calligraphic work by Chui Pui Chee in the entrance, and inkon-paper works inspired by human irises by Zhang Yanzi. Whether you want to work or simply relax, the bespoke Solo Chairs offer a comfortable, multi-functional place where power options include wireless charging built into the tables. Alternatively, take a seat in the livingroom-style area of the main lounge where you can enjoy time to yourself or catch up with travelling companions. WHO’S INVITED Along with first and business class passengers on Cathay Pacific and oneworld member airline flights, Cathay Pacific’s Beijing lounge welcomes Cathay Diamond, Gold and Silver as well as oneworld Emerald and Sapphire members. With up to seven daily flights between Beijing and Hong Kong, the lounge is open from 00.15 to 03.15, and again from 05.00 until the final Cathay Pacific departure each day.

ABOVE, FROM TOP Made-to-order local dishes from the Noodle Bar; the cosy tea counter; residential-style design in the lounge

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THE KING’S

COAST Far from Morocco’s better-known draws, Tamuda Bay is a place of pale-blue sea, privacy and a more discreet kind of luxury

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n the emerald, quartzite ‘moon pool’ at Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay resort on Morocco’s northern Mediterranean coast, the water is a perfect 26°C. I feel the weightlessness of my body as I float, limbs languid and eyes closed. My mind slows as it responds to the humid air and luminous, hypnotic ‘moon’ above. I’ve just experienced a full-body massage, and this dip feels deliciously indulgent. I’m fast discovering this is the norm here. With wooden latticework, mashrabiya screens, ceramic urns and mihrab-style entrances, the resort’s wellness area transports me into a different space and time. I watch a gentleman rise from his chair at the behest of an Ayurvedic doctor. Another guest sits in front of me in a meditative state. She turns her head and sees me gazing out into the garden by renowned landscaper Luis Vallejo, as if in a dream. We exchange a brief, knowing smile as if to say, “This place does that to you.”

MOROCCO’S MOMENT Last year, Morocco’s tourism numbers hit a record high of almost 20 million visitors. Coastal hotspots like Essaouira, Agadir and Taghazout attract surfers and digital nomads; Casablanca and Rabat remain important commercial hubs; and the cultural pull of Marrakech and Fez hasn’t waned. The country is investing billions into transportation and tourism infrastructure, while tackling youth unemployment in the midst of its World Cup campaign, along with Spain and Portugal, in 2030. Blissfully, Tamuda Bay remains a tranquil haven, unknown even to many Moroccans. Long home to Imazighen communities, with Phoenician, Carthaginian and Roman layers, the area has undergone many periods of change and revival. Tamuda once had its own coin minted due to its success as an agricultural trading post. But after the Romans left, it remained uninhabited until King Mohammed VI launched an initiative that turned it into an exclusive hideaway for the Moroccan jet-set. The strategic decision to develop the area was no coincidence. The king and his family had been holidaying at their summer residence nearby for years, and saw potential in Tamuda as a luxury getaway. Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay is the king’s own brainchild, and it comes with every exclusive amenity imaginable – including a private beach. OPENING PAGE Breakfast served with ocean views in a suite ABOVE While newly built, the hotel channels ancient architectural styles OPPOSITE, FROM TOP Palatial ground; a nook to soak in the spa.

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WHILE YO U ’ R E H E R E Perched on the Mediterranean shoreline at Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay, the resort’s boathouse opens the door to a more adventurous side of Morocco’s northern coast. Clad in warm iroko wood at the southern edge of the property, it serves as the launch point for everything from private boat excursions and paddleboarding to more immersive encounters with the sea – adding a sense of movement and discovery to the otherwise slow rhythm of Tamuda Bay.

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SLOW DAYS ON TAMUDA BAY Designed by award-winning architects Muza Lab, each of Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay’s 55 suites and villas features stunning ocean or mountain views – many also come with private plunge pools. The region’s mixed cultural legacy is immediately evident. With a cool hibiscus juice drink in hand, I admire the Tamazight script engraved on the resort’s lobby walls, while Andalusian tiles and Roman features complement mihrab wooden doors and thick stone walls. Although the resort has custom wellness programs, trying to stick to healthy meals and exercise regimes seems like a lost cause. In my room, luscious medjool dates lie temptingly on the coffee table in the lounge area, a symbol of prosperity and hospitality. I can’t bear to leave my space after waking the next day. Instead, I enjoy a sumptuous breakfast in bed accompanied by a view of the calm, powder-blue Alboran Sea, before rambling the hotel’s grounds and admiring butterflies and ladybirds flitting over lavender shrubs. Lunch is at Italian restaurant Coccinella, where I enjoy a fresh salad and savour a tiramisu that’s part theatre, part gluttony. Afterwards, I lose track of time in the cosy Alboran Club and library nook before cycling to dinner – although I could have ordered a chauffeured golf cart. Chef Éric Frechon, of Paris’ Michelin-starred Epicure, is at the helm of the resort’s La Table, a French-Mediterranean restaurant that serves dishes like flame-grilled sea bream with eggplant caviar and medina spices, and smoked foie gras in ravioli served in a shiitake duck broth. MOROCCAN LEGACY When I finally venture out, it’s to see the UNESCO-listed Medina of Tétouan, which is well worth a visit; I also make the two-hour drive to the ‘blue city’ of Chefchaouen. More active diversions include hiking into the Rif Mountains, while the fascinating port city of Tangier, where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean, can be reached in just 90 minutes. The birthplace of scholar and explorer Ibn Battuta, Tangier spent much of the 20th century as an International Zone governed by several foreign powers, and is where fashion icon Yves Saint Laurent called home. ABOVE Fine dining in Coccinella OPPOSITE, LEFT Some suites come with private pools and ocean views

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Strolling along Tangier’s bustling, never-ending promenade that traces the curve of the Municipal and Malabata beaches, I see women riding horses and camels along the shoreline, their hijabs whipping in the wind. At the Phoenician tombs, kids run with pure joy – one boy points to mainland Spain in the distance, a mere 17 nautical miles away. I reflect on the serenity of Tamuda Bay, and wonder how, despite its centuries of history, this corner of Morocco is still such a secret.

HOTEL NOTES Rates at Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay start from AU$1,370 a night in a Deluxe Suite. The Royal Mansour’s two other luxury hotels in Marrakesh and Casablanca offer the same high standard of servic and facilities. royalmansour.com

“With wooden latticework, mashrabiya screens, ceramic urns and mihrab-style entrances, the resort’s wellness area transports me into a different space and time.”

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THE

HOTEL

THAT BUILT NASHVILLE At The Hermitage Hotel, Tennessee politics, Southern glamour and music history converge beneath a stained-glass ceiling that has watched over Nashville for more than a century

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here aren’t many hotels in the world with a bathroom famous enough to attract visitors who are not even staying the night. But tucked beside the lobby of The Hermitage Hotel in downtown Nashville is a men’s restroom that has achieved near-mythical status. Finished in glossy lime-green and black Art Deco tiles, terrazzo flooring and dark polished wood, it has been photographed for fashion shoots, featured in television shows and movies, and admired with the reverence usually reserved for galleries. Rumour has it Elvis Presley once fixed his hair in the mirror here. Another tale suggests John F. Kennedy had his shoes shined in the room while staying at the hotel. Strangely, the stories do not feel exaggerated once you arrive. Because The Hermitage itself possesses that increasingly rare quality among luxury hotels – genuine gravitas. Not manufactured nostalgia or carefully staged ‘heritage’, but the layered atmosphere of a place that has spent more than a century at the centre of a city’s political, cultural and social life. Standing opposite the Tennessee State Capitol, the hotel has watched Nashville evolve from a conservative Southern city into one of America’s fastest-growing cultural capitals. Politicians, musicians, activists and celebrities have all passed through its marble-clad halls. Even the Country Music Association was founded here. Yet despite its history, The Hermitage never feels trapped in the past. It wears its age with confidence.

A LOBBY THAT STOPS CONVERSATION The moment you step inside, the noise of downtown Nashville falls away. The lobby rises around you in creamy Tennessee and Italian marble, golden Sienna columns, ornate plaster detailing and one of the most arresting stained-glass ceilings in the American South – a soaring skylight suspended nearly 10 metres overhead, emblazoned with mythological motifs and the hotel’s monogrammed ‘H’. Opened in 1910 as Nashville’s first million-dollar hotel, The Hermitage was designed in the Beaux-Arts style at a time when grand hotels were intended not merely as accommodation, but as civic statements. More than a century later, the lobby still feels cinematic – all hushed corners, glowing lamps and the soft echo of luggage wheels crossing polished marble. It is difficult not to slow down here. Guests gather around the fireplace with cocktails and laptops, while visitors drift through taking photographs of the architecture. Afternoon tea unfolds beneath the stained glass with silver teapots, delicate pastries and a distinctly Southern sense of occasion. In partnership with Reese Witherspoon’s Nashville-based lifestyle brand Draper James, the experience leans into regional storytelling – sweet tea flavours, bourbonlaced touches and even Jack Daniel’s served discreetly in teacups. But beyond the glamour, The Hermitage occupies an important place in American history. During the battle for women’s suffrage in 1920, the hotel became the unofficial headquarters for politicians and lobbyists debating the ratification of the 19th Amendment. Legislators supporting women’s right to vote wore yellow roses, while opponents wore red – a divide that became known as Tennessee’s ‘War of the Roses’. Artefacts and historical displays throughout the property pay homage to the movement, grounding the hotel in something deeper than aesthetics alone.

ABOVE The grand exterior of the 1910 property OPPOSITE The bar inside Druise & Darr © Brandon Barre OPENING PAGE The hotel’s light-filled verandah space © Daniel Meigs

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FEEL THE MUSIC For guests wanting a more immersive connection to Music City, the hotel’s ‘Your Song, Your Story’ experience pairs visitors with professional musicians for songwriting sessions or private studio lessons. It is exactly the sort of experience that could feel gimmicky elsewhere, yet somehow feels entirely natural here.

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“Beneath the vaulted ceilings, locals mingle with hotel guests over bourbons and martinis while photography exhibitions featuring Nashville musicians and celebrities line the walls.”

SOUTHERN GRANDEUR, QUIETLY MODERNISED The hotel’s 122 rooms and suites continue the sense of restrained grandeur established downstairs, though thankfully without tipping into historical parody. Following extensive renovations completed in recent years, the accommodation feels polished and contemporary while remaining deeply connected to the building’s original character. Crown mouldings frame lofty ceilings. Heavy drapery softens oversized windows. Cashmere throws, Frette linens and custom furnishings lend warmth to rooms that could otherwise feel imposing given their scale. Many suites overlook the Capitol, reinforcing the hotel’s longstanding connection to the political life of the city. My own room arrives with thoughtful gestures that feel genuinely hospitable rather than performative – a cold-pressed juice waiting after a long-haul flight, handwritten notes left during turndown and musical-themed chocolates that nod to Nashville’s identity without veering into cliché. Even the pillow menu feels considered. Bathrooms are particularly impressive – expanses of marble with double vanities, deep soaking tubs, walk-in showers and Molton Brown amenities. There is an old-school indulgence to them, the sort rarely seen in newer hotels obsessed with minimalism. The beds themselves deserve mention, too. The Hermitage uses handcrafted DUX beds from Swedish maker Duxiana, and combined with blackout curtains and near-perfect soundproofing, the result is the kind of sleep that becomes dangerously difficult to leave. Service throughout the hotel mirrors the property’s overall mood – polished but never stiff. Staff seem genuinely proud of the building’s history and eager to share it, whether directing guests towards hidden architectural details or explaining the significance of various artefacts displayed throughout.

DINING WITH A SENSE OF THEATRE Like the city around it, dining at The Hermitage balances tradition with reinvention. Its signature restaurant, Drusie & Darr, marks celebrated chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Southern debut, though the space itself remains deeply connected to the hotel’s past. Originally conceived as a rathskeller-style bar, the room retains its vaulted ceilings, dark-oak panelling and much of its original 1910 architecture. Designer Thomas Juul-Hansen has softened the historical heaviness with contemporary lighting and plush banquettes, creating a restaurant that feels simultaneously grand and intimate. The menu follows a similarly hybrid approach. Southern ingredients and Nashville references weave through Vongerichten’s globally influenced style – crisp sushi topped with sea trout and chipotle emulsion, warm shrimp salad with truffle vinaigrette and Champagne beurre blanc, egg toast layered with caviar. The bar scene here is particularly compelling. Nashville may now be internationally associated with honky-tonks and Broadway’s live music chaos, but The Hermitage offers an entirely different side of the city after dark – quieter, moodier and infinitely more elegant. Beneath the vaulted ceilings, locals mingle with hotel guests over bourbons and martinis while photography exhibitions featuring Nashville musicians and celebrities line the walls. Outside the hotel, Nashville continues to unfold in increasingly sophisticated ways. Yes, there is still country music echoing from Broadway bars and rhinestone boots in shop windows. But there are also acclaimed restaurants, contemporary art spaces, independent boutiques and a rapidly evolving cultural scene reshaping perceptions of the city. The Hermitage sits at the centre of this transition – rooted in old Nashville while quietly embracing the new.

HOTEL NOTES Rates at The Hermitage start from US$318 (about AU$440) a night. thehermitagehotel.com

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Sleek guest room designs © Brandon Barre, Forrest Perkins; fine dining at Druise & Darr; chef Vongerichten oversees the menu at Druise & Darr

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ALL IN THE

FAMILY With four hours of complimentary childcare per

day, a kids club, private villas and plenty of room to breathe, Vomo Island Fiji makes multigenerational luxury holidays surprisingly effortless

W O R D S B Y M A D E L I N T O M E LT Y

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“W

hen I stay at an island resort, I expect hammocks. If there’s no hammock, it doesn’t feel like I’m on holiday.” At the time, my friend’s comment had made me laugh. But when I arrive at Vomo Island Fiji and am shown the sprawling twobedroom villa I’m staying in with my mother and daughter, I realise she had a point. Outside, just steps from the beach, a hammock slumps perfectly between two palm trees heavy with green coconuts. It seems to say: You’re officially on island time, forget about Inbox Zero. At Vomo Island Fiji, the armour of busy, everyday life falls away remarkably quickly. I notice it immediately in myself and on the faces of my fellow guests. Charming hammocks aside, there are practical reasons for this. Vomo is a privately owned island in the Mamanuca archipelago, on the cusp of the Yasawas – and a beautiful and exclusive one at that, with just 37 villas and seven residences spread across 87 hectares. The property is all-inclusive, with meals, non-alcoholic beverages and a handful of daily activities included – completely removing transactional interactions (and regular bill-induced cortisol spikes) during the stay. “When you’re booking a five-day holiday, you don’t want to be presented a bill at breakfast,” says Vomo general manager Leon Pink. Also included for families is a ‘Baby Butler’, which is exactly what it sounds like. For four hours every day, a dedicated nanny will look after your children free of charge, allowing parents to actually get some rest (imagine!) on their holiday. That’s on top of the Kids’ Village, open 8am-9pm every day and catering to all ages.

MORE LAID-BACK LUXURY When we arrive, the first stage of Vomo’s renovation has just been completed on Yasawa Beach, where Vuda Restaurant & Bar has doubled in size and gained a series of lounge areas and family-sized cabanas overlooking Vomo Lailai. Future plans also include repurposing the existing spa into a teens’ leisure space, and creating an adults-only wellness area alongside the already adults-only The Rocks restaurant, perched on the edge of a cliff and offering the best sunset views on the island. On our first night, my mum and I join a glamorous longtable dinner on Vuda’s new deck, marking the launch of the resort’s ‘Culinary Immersion Series’. Beginning with sunset cocktails and canapes, chef Nelly Robinson – who visits Vomo with his family every year – of celebrated Sydney restaurant NEL takes us through a nine-course degustation that beautifully showcases his creative approach to fine dining. Dishes arrive as elevated interpretations of comforting, no-frills favourites, including cheese-and-onion pasties with charcoal and aged cheddar, and toasties with chicken mousse and spicy mayo, each embracing local and Australian produce. Paired wines, from Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve to a 2022 Felton Road pinot noir and a sticky Hawkes Bay viognier, turn the inaugural dinner into a full-blown celebration – and the highlight of our stay. All the while, my Energizer Bunny daughter is refreshingly absent from the affair, having been entertained, read to and tucked into bed by her nanny Silipa by the time our mains arrive. For once, my mother and I can enjoy some adult conversation and take our time over good food and wine, without being interrupted every few minutes.

A NEW STYLE OF FAMILY RESORT Despite being a parent, I don’t particularly want to spend my holidays at family-focused resorts. They are often unnervingly busy, loud and chaotic – the very antithesis of what I hope for in my down-time. Vomo offers a very different kind of family escape in Fiji: a slower pace, fewer guests, two solid restaurants, private villas, spectacular marine life and an increasingly luxurious experience thanks to a recent – and ongoing – renovation. Many of Vomo’s visitors are return guests – some families come each and every year, and more than once I hear parents exclaim: “My kids grew up here.” The resort will even try to pair the same nanny and families together each visit, so children arrive at the resort already knowing their Butler. “A lot of families have had deep relationships with staff members here over the years, where they’re just as much a part of their holiday and their family. It’s the privilege of hanging out with Fijians on your holidays,” says Pink. Demand from multigenerational groups, like mine, has also driven the addition of seven residences since Vomo transitioned from an adults-only resort to a family-friendly one a decade ago.

THREE GENERATIONS, ONE HOLIDAY Vomo Island is an accredited PADI 5 Star Dive Resort, with five dive sites just a short boat ride away and additional sites scattered further afield. Guests can snorkel directly from the beaches on either side of the island, or participate in the daily complimentary ‘Snorkel Safari’, on which eagle rays, turtles and dolphins make frequent appearances. There’s also a nine-hole, par-three chip-and-putt course on the island, but a private sunrise class on the yoga deck is more my cup of tea. Arriving at the top of a hill on Mount Vomo as the first rays spread across the horizon, what had felt like a brutal 5.30am wake-up suddenly feels entirely worthwhile. Gentle yin yoga, slow breathing and 360-degree views across the ocean and island get me out of my mind and into my body for a blissful 45 minutes of presence. Meanwhile, my mum – who lives interstate – enjoys some precious one-on-one time with my daughter over breakfast. Later that day, I continue the wellness theme with a satisfyingly firm massage at the intimate spa, while my family splashes in the pool and enjoys lunch served in the privacy of our Two Bedroom Family Pool Villa, where the three of us have plenty of space to spread out. Just beyond the hammock lies Mamanuca Beach, ranked in the top five of The World’s 50 Best Beaches 2026 list – and yet each time I wander down to it, it is entirely deserted. “Vomo’s always been lucky enough to have

OPENING PAGE Vomo’s beaches have been rated among the most beautiful in the world © Brook Sabin OPPOSITE, TOP Morning yoga © Brook Sabin OPPOSITE, BOTTOM The resort’s main pool © Brook Sabin

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CULINARY IMMERSION SERIES Vomo’s ‘Culinary Immersion Series’ invites celebrated chefs to the island to collaborate with Vomo’s executive chef Ajay Dahiwale and his team. A degustation ‘Showcase Menu’ inspired by the latest Culinary Immersion follows each Monday evening at adults-only cliffside restaurant The Rocks for three months, before the next chef arrives to create a new menu.

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WO R L DW I D E KIDS Vomo Island Fiji is the first property in the Pacific to become an accredited member of the Luxury Childcare Association. This means the Kids’ Village team has completed Tier 1 Professional Childcare training, and the facilities, programs and procedures have passed a comprehensive audit with the internationally renowned childcare organisation Worldwide Kids. All nannies are also required to hold Red Cross Fiji first aid accreditation for children.

ECO ISLAND Vomo Island Fiji incorporates sustainability practices to ensure the ongoing health of the island: – A freshwater bottling plant produces purified still and sparkling drinking water in sealed, reusable glass bottles – In-room amenities are large, locally made Pure Fiji pump bottles – E-Water cleaning solutions are employed to reduce up to 80,000 litres of bottled chemicals per annum – A recycling program for glass, plastic and cardboard is employed – A Bio Composter processes food waste into usable solid and liquid compost, diverting 280 tonnes of landfill per year – There’s a knowledgable on-site marine biologist – A turtle sanctuary has been established in partnership with the Olive Ridley Project – the first of its kind in Fiji

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“My Energizer Bunny daughter is refreshingly absent from the glamorous dinner, having been entertained, read to and tucked into bed by her nanny Silipa by the time our mains arrive.”

a lot of space,” says Pink. “And even with 160 guests on the island, you’ve still got the sand to yourself.” This reality is difficult to leave behind. As the staff sing the island’s farewell song, bringing tears to my mum’s eyes, and my daughter asks when she can see Silipa again, I realise Vomo has achieved something rare: a family holiday all three generations genuinely enjoy. The challenge will be returning to ordinary kid-friendly resorts. I wonder if Silipa makes house calls.

RESORT NOTES

Access to Vomo Island resort is a 35-minute boat ride from Nadi’s Vuda Marina. All-inclusive nightly rates start from FJ$2,700 (around AU$1,740) per night in a Hillside Villa including full-board meals, non-alcoholic beverages, daily minibar and snacks, laundry, and a weekly hosted cocktail party with Fijian cultural meke performances and kava ceremonies. Rates also include a Baby Butler sitting service for four hours per family per day (two kids maximum), access to the Kids’ Village with supervised activities each day, use of non-motorised watersports and activities (including snorkelling trips and equipment, kayaks and paddleboards), a nine-hole par-three chip-and-putt golf course, tennis, gym, yoga and hikes. vomofiji.com

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The Peninsula Beijing CHINA

R E V I E W B Y M A D E L I N T O M E LT Y

WHY STAY HERE With unmissable cultural icons like The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square an easy 20-minute walk away and endless opportunities to max out your credit card just around the corner, it’s hard to beat the location of The Peninsula Beijing. Sitting pretty behind a paifang-style archway in the heart of the Chinese capital’s Wangfujing shopping district, this much-loved property was modelled on an imperial residence when it opened in 1989 as the Palace Hotel. After joining the Peninsula Hotels family in 1996, it underwent a top-to-tail makeover in 2017 and now embodies the timeless, luxurious aesthetic you’d expect from the brand. If the promise of your own living room wasn’t enough in this all-suite hotel, art and history lovers will want to stay to admire its impressive collection of contemporary Chinese art that exceeds 800 original pieces – there is even a gallery and studio on site.

DESIGN A flagship in Asia’s pioneering hotel company, The Peninsula Beijing embodies old-world luxury. Its grand lobby is anchored by soaring columns and the original grand staircase, which leads down to a shopping arcade boasting more than 30 designer fashion houses – among the first to open in China. The hotel’s museum-quality curation of paintings, sculptures and photography begins in the lobby, too, with two five-metre-high paintings of the sun and moon by Xinjiang-born painter Qin Feng, symbolising peace and spirituality in Chinese culture, and promising good fortune on the hotel and all who enter it. There are also bronze sculptures by artist Zhang Du and an enormous embroidered dragon hanging from the ceiling (it is Chinese New Year during my stay), while imposing guardian lions keep watch outside the hotel doors. In a quirky homage to the hotel’s historical roots, one wing has been left unrenovated and guests can visit this time capsule – including an original room with a fold-down Murphy bed – to learn the property’s fascinating history through archival photos and memorabilia.

IN THE SUITE The Peninsula Beijing’s 230 suites are among the largest in Beijing – and arguably the most spacious in China. This sense of scale is immediately obvious. My classically styled Deluxe Suite has a separate living room big enough for a desk (and the unique addition of a printer), a dining table and lounge, an oversized marble bathroom with tub, and huge windows affording the bedroom and living space plenty of light. My suite overlooks the tree-lined thoroughfare of Wangfujing, where each evening branches twinkle with fairy lights and crimson Chinese lanterns glow to honour the Year of the Horse.

DINING While The Lobby restaurant is home to The Peninsula’s classic afternoon tea – along with relaxed international dining and daily breakfast – Jing offers a French fine-dining experience with an Asian twist. It’s in Jing’s kitchen that I learn how to make pork-and-cabbage dumplings as part of The Peninsula Academy offering, beginning with a trip to a local market to gather the ingredients. It’s an experience, but one that is quickly trumped by dinner at the hotel’s modern Cantonese restaurant Huang Ting. It’s my most memorable meal in Beijing, spearheaded by a refined degustation that includes standouts like poached Dalian abalone marinated with rattan pepper and garlic, and steamed Boston lobster with Kaluga Queen caviar. The ambience of the restaurant adds another luxurious layer to the experience, with a design that transports you to a traditional courtyard home. The replica furniture is inspired by Ming dynasty designs; the walls are from reclaimed, centuries-old hutong houses; and the floorboards and beams (sourced from a mansion in Suzhou) along with the restaurant’s ornate, carved display stand are more than 200 years old. For a completely different perspective on Beijing, Yun Summer Lounge on the 15th floor offers cocktails and sharing plates each evening in the warmer months, with panoramic views of the city.

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SPA & WELLNESS Spanning an impressive 1,370 square metres, the relaxing Peninsula Spa has 12 treatment rooms, an Asian tea lounge and a relaxation space – where my pulse slows right down thanks to the moody, low lighting and calming vibrations of a singing bowl performance. The spa menu offers Asian, European and Ayurvedic beauty and wellness treatments, and my plumping signature facial uses products from French luxury skincare brand Biologique Recherche. There are also separate saunas, aromatherapy steam rooms, a fitness centre with yoga studio and an indoor pool.

SPECIAL TOUCHES ‘Peninsula Time’, available at all 12 Peninsula properties worldwide, allows guests who book direct or through a preferred travel advisor to check in as early as 6am on the day of arrival and out as late as 10pm on the day of departure, giving you up to 19 hours of extra hotel time for free. The Peninsula Beijing’s ‘Artist in Residence’ program, created in conjunction with some of the city’s premier galleries and museums, provides local artists with studio and living space at the hotel – and guests can visit them as they work. The Peninsula Beijing’s concierge can also arrange for guests to get under the skin of Beijing’s food scene, with a street-food tour led by Australian expatriate, Garth Wilson. Arrive hungry and prepare to dine on some of the city’s most delicious breakfast dishes and snacks including aiwowo (a red bean-filled mochi rolled in coconut), and jianbing, a moreish savoury crêpe my group couldn’t put down, despite how tight our waistbands felt.

IF YOU WANT TO UPGRADE The largest suite I’ve ever seen, the 660-square-metre Peninsula Suite was modelled on the palatial homes of the Chinese aristocracy. With antiques and artworks throughout, it boasts a dining room seating up to 18 with a separate kitchen, living room, study, private gym and a second guest bedroom.

GETTING THERE Cathay Pacific connects Beijing with major ustralian gateways including Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth and Adelaide. cathaypacific.com

THE PENINSULA BEIJING ABOVE, FROM TOP Design is classic and pared back in rooms and suites; the hotel’s grand exterior © Jia Shusen; a luxe marbled bathroom © William Furness

DELUXE SUITE

OPPOSITE The hotel is close to major Beijing attractions

OPENING IMAGE Paifang gates welcome guests to the hotel

SIZE PRICE PER NIGHT WEBSITE

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Hotel Balzac Paris FRANCE

R E V I E W BY S U E WA L L AC E

WHY STAY HERE It comes as no surprise that Parisian chic abounds at the oh-so-elegant Hotel Balzac Paris, perfectly located in the 8th arrondissement in the heart of the French capital. Positioned on Rue Balzac (formerly Avenue Fortunée, a street originally preserved for Parisian high society), this is a hotel with a rich history. It sits on the site of the last residence of the muchlauded French novelist and playwright Honoré de Balzac, whose most famous work is La Comédie Humaine, a collection of more than 90 works and essays depicting the life of 19thcentury Parisian society in minute detail. Many endearing quotes, too, are attributed to Balzac, including my personal favourite: “Great love affairs start with champagne and end with tisane (tea).” True to Balzac’s word, my own love affair with the hotel begins with champagne. I receive a warm reception in the sleek lobby, lined with black-and-white tiles and plump, snowy white sofas. I savour the flute as I soak up that understated French panache, the result of a creative renovation by dynamic duo Charlotte de Tonnac and Hugo Sauzay of Festen Architecture. Some suites and rooms have grand views of the Eiffel Tower, and being just a short hop from bustling Champs-Elysées with its flagship boutiques and the famous Arc de Triomphe, it’s an ideal place to stay for fashionistas and window-shoppers. The famous Balzac Cinema, too, is across the road. You never know who will come through Hotel Balzac’s doors – it’s a famous haunt of designers, A-listers and discerning travellers.

DESIGN It’s all about understated elegance at Hotel Balzac, where those savvy designers de Tonnac and Sauzay were inspired by the locale’s history, Art Deco style and Japanese aesthetics. As a result, the interior pays homage to timeless design – it’s luxurious not showy, classy not pretentious and sophisticated not ostentatious – just a warm ambience you want to immerse yourself in. “Le Balzac perpetuates a timeless Parisian heritage through its classicism. It’s a place full of atmosphere, with a history that we have respected and extended. You must experience this place to understand it,” say the architects.

IN THE SUITE My Eiffel Tower View Suite is perfect after a hectic day of sightseeing and shopping. I use an elegant tassel key (the automatic mechanics are concealed) to open the door, revealing a haven of soft hues and plush textures. There’s a caramel velvet sofa and writing desk, and a balcony with knockout views – the city’s most visited attraction is so visible it’s as though you can reach out and touch it. The panorama also features a charming sea of chimney pots and green rooftop gardens thanks to the surrounding buildings, and I never tire of staring at the captivating skyline, drinking in the early morning’s pastel shades and sunset’s vibrant pinks and oranges. The glamorous oversized bathroom has a marble mosaic floor, a deep free-standing tub,

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large shower and pampering amenities by cult French perfume house, Diptyque. I love the minibar with its French treats, wine and champagne, and if you’d prefer a cocktail, all the ingredients are there, plus a recipe booklet by Hotel Balzac’s head bartender Julien Quettier. The 58 suites and rooms are a luxurious shelter from the hustle and bustle of Paris and invite you to linger – if only.

DINING Breakfast has never tasted so good, served on a white linen tablecloth on my terrace with a side of stunning Eiffel Tower vistas. My order of fresh fruit includes sweet strawberries and raspberries, with my main of tasty eggs Benedict with smoked salmon getting a French twist – served on toasted brioche rather than an English muffin. On my second morning I venture to the hotel’s cosy lounge with its glass ceiling, peppering of bistro lamps, honey-toned velvet couches and inviting armchairs wrapped around a fireplace. There I enjoy an organic omelette, crisp croissant and coffee. My single cup is a far cry from the 30 cups a day I’m told Balzac himself used to drink. In the evening, I head to the intimate, low-lit bar oozing French flair – the perfect spot to people-watch. I try the signature cocktail – a Comédie Humaine, made with Yamatozakura sweet potato shochu, kiwi puree, fresh lemon juice and jasmine syrup – paired with the Balzac burger starring wagyu beef. Petrossian caviar specialties add another layer of indulgence to the menu. Hotel Balzac also shares its residence with a prestigious culinary neighbour, the three-Michelin-starred Pierre Gagnaire, known for fine French haute cuisine. A moody passageway leads to the celebrated restaurant.

SPA & WELLNESS The Japanese-inspired Spa Ikoi – translating to ‘a place where one feels good’ – offers face and body treatments featuring ancient Japanese techniques. This cocoon is aptly named – step inside and you immediately feel an aura of calm and wellbeing. The 90-minute signature treatment, ‘Wakayagu’, is an antiageing ritual combining powerful active ingredients and expert techniques. Massages take place on Japanese tatami mats and there’s a plunge pool, sauna, hammam and state-of-the-art gym should you feel like working up a sweat.

IF YOU WANT TO UPGRADE The opulent Sky of Paris Suite on the sixth floor has two dreamy bedrooms and a spacious living area. The 106-squaremetre abode has a beautiful terrace overlooking Rue Lord Byron and the Champs-Elysées, facing the Eiffel Tower.

ABOVE Hotel Balzac’s lobby comes with style to spare TOP The exterior of the grand Parisian hotel

OPPOSITE Soak in Paris city views from your suite’s terrace OPENING PAGE Some suites at Hotel Balzac come with Eiffel Tower views

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HOTEL BALZAC EIFFEL TOWER VIEW SUITE

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25hours Hotel The Olympia S Y D N E Y, A U S T R A L I A

R E V I E W B Y M A D E L I N T O M E LT Y

WHY STAY HERE The well-travelled know that when visiting a city, the real gems – and most authentic representation of the destination – are often found not in the town centre or anywhere near its landmarks, but in the neighbourhoods. In Sydney, there are few better bases for getting beneath the city’s surface than 25hours Hotel The Olympia, located at the intersection of five distinct eastern suburbs: Paddington, Surry Hills, Darlinghurst, Kings Cross and Moore Park. Walk straight out the door and find yourself on one of the city’s best shopping strips. Plus, with its position on the main vein that runs from Bondi through to the city, Oxford Street, you can be on the country’s most famous beach or harbour in under 15 minutes. But beyond its hard-to-beat location, 25hours – newly opened in October 2025 and the brand’s first Australian outpost – is effortlessly cool, giving guests the feeling of being plugged into the city’s pulse. Don’t expect traditional luxury. Do expect good vibes, bold design, tongue-in-cheek branding and stellar dining.

DESIGN The 109-room hotel occupies the heritage-listed, former West Olympia Theatre, which opened in 1911 as a gargantuan 2,500-person picture palace and is said to have been one of Sydney’s first suburban cinemas to install ‘talkies’. It went on

to hold various cinematic identities over the decades before becoming restaurant/club The Grand Pacific Blue Room, often remembered as one of Sydney’s more glamorous see-and-beseen venues of the 1990s and 2000s. 25hours Hotel The Olympia pays homage to these cinematic roots while channelling the old glamour, bohemian spirit and LGBTQIA+ cultural legacy of Oxford Street. It does so through interior whimsy, unique experiences and quirky facilities – and you can bet behind them is a story. Tonkin Zulaikha Greer, Indyk Architects and Woods Bagot collaborated on the hotel’s unique styling, which successfully preserves the building’s heritage features while introducing an unmistakably modern DNA. The lobby, if you can really call it that, feels more like a curated communal living room, with a simple check-in counter in front of shelves of VHS tapes (a nod to the Golden Age of film), exposed brick walls lined with photo collages, and midcentury furniture – including a white pod chair straight out of the Space Age. It’s a refreshing departure from the city centre’s polished luxury hotel scene, and reminds me of other innercity treasures like The Old Clare and Paramount House Hotel, both of which also tap into the cultural identity of their local neighbourhoods. IN THE SUITE My 69-square-metre Gigantic Studio is the hotel’s most luxurious room offering, and falls into the ‘Dreamers’ design

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who oversees all four of the hotel’s dining venues. Reclined on a leather chesterfield with a view of that landscaped atrium, I sip biodynamic wine at The Mulwray, named after Roman Polanski’s femme fatale, Evelyn Mulwray, from the 1974 neo-noir classic, Chinatown. Dinner at The Palomar is exceptional, and I sample a menu drawing on influences from Southern Europe, North Africa and the Levant, with a focus on cooking over fire. To start, there’s PiOik Bakery nigella-seed flatbread and market fish crudo with tomato ezme, but it’s the cucumbers with green tahini and crispy chilli that I can’t stop thinking about the next day, even after indulging in a perfectly grilled 600g Coppertree Farm ribeye with burnt chilli salsa. As for the lamington with labneh, mango and rose petals – Australian desserts don’t get much more elegant (or moreish). Like The Palomar (where breakfast is also served), coffee shop Jacob the Angel is positioned on the ground floor with an entrance for the public on Oxford Street, and pours specialty coffee to enjoy with pastries supplied by famed Lune Croissanterie. It’s a completely different vibe at Monica, the Eastern Suburbs’ new favourite rooftop bar. With views across Paddington and to the city (with a glimpse of the Sydney Harbour Bridge), glamorous 1960s-inspired design (inside is a striking mural I can’t stop admiring), and a DJ booth to keep the energy high, I’m not surprised to be sharing the space with numerous hens parties and 20-somethings enjoying Saturday night pre-drinks. The space is heaving, and rightly so.

category (on levels two and four), with a palette of blue and green and a hero wall mural by local artist Kubi Vasak. The sprawling bathroom is the star of the show, so much so that you step right into it upon opening the door. Vibrant teal tiles line the floor and walls, but they’re a mere supporting act to the oversized oval bathtub positioned under a skylight, a perfect viewing spot for sunset. While not a true suite in the traditional sense – there is not a designated living room – there is plenty of room, with a small desk, armchair and a dining area for two. Arriving on a Friday, I particularly like the view out onto the lush atrium, where I can see people gathering at wine and cocktail bar The Mulwray as the work week comes to an end. The ‘Renegades’ rooms on levels one and three feature moodier palettes, bold artwork and an overall edgier tone.

DINING The standout of my stay is an evening split between The Mulwray and flagship open-kitchen restaurant The Palomar – a testament to the prowess of culinary director Mitch Orr,

SPECIAL TOUCHES The most obvious ode to the hotel’s art-house cinema roots comes in the form of a private theatre, The Odeon. While, much to my disappointment, the hotel doesn’t screen films here, the space can be booked for private events. Guests can continue the cinematic theme in-room, too: reserve one of the movies on display in the lobby and an old-fashioned TV with VCR will be delivered for you to enjoy from the comfort of your bed. The hotel also has a fleet of Schindelhauer bikes to hire, with leafy Centennial Park an easy 15-minute cycle away. For those keen for some retail therapy, the hotel hosts boutiques on the ground floor, including Sorry Thanks I Love You, Kreafunk, Soeder, Samova, Canvasco and Freitag.

LEFT, FROM TOP Arty flourishes in the Gigantic Suite © Justin Nicholas; the same suite’s living space © Justin Nicholas OPENING PAGE The outlook from rooftop bar Monica © Steve Woodburn

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The hotel sits pretty on Oxford St © Justin Nicholas; Mitch Orr overseas dining © Ethan Smart; the Gigantic Suite’s glam bathroom © Justin Nicholas

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25HOURS HOTEL THE OLYMPIA GIGANTIC SUITE

SIZE PRICE PER NIGHT WEBSITE

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NATURE BY DESIGN At One&Only Mandarina, the rainforest is not a backdrop – it is part of the architecture. Set above Mexico’s Pacific coast on the Riviera Nayarit, Private Home 26 is enveloped by nature, creating a secluded fivebedroom retreat designed for families and friends to gather without losing the sensation of being immersed in the landscape. The residence forms part of One&Only Mandarina’s Private Homes collection, conceived by Studio Rick Joy to sit lightly within the site’s rainforest, cliffs and coastline. Rather than imposing itself on the terrain, the architecture works with it: natural materials, open living spaces and generous terraces frame the surrounding greenery and ocean, and draw the outdoors into daily life. This is also the essence of One&Only’s wider villa and private homes concept, which spans destinations from Greece and Montenegro to Mauritius, the Maldives, Montana and beyond. Across the portfolio, the appeal lies in the balance of space, privacy and full resort service, allowing guests to experience the freedom of a standalone home with the ease of a highly serviced stay. At Mandarina, that idea feels especially persuasive. The design does not separate guests from the destination; it brings the Pacific coast closer, turning architecture into a way of experiencing place.

oneandonlyresorts.com

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savour A MENU OF INDULGENT GOURMET AND WELLNESS EXPERIENCES

COPENHAGEN BEYOND NOMA A W I N E T O U R O F C R OAT I A F L AV O U R S O F B E L I Z E V I E T N A M , S E R V E D A F LOAT S AVO U R I N G T H E S O U T H C OAS T

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THE

NOMA EFFECT

The restaurant that changed the face of Nordic dining, Noma is now just one part of Copenhagen’s wider gastronomic pull, as a new generation of chefs builds on its legacy in distinct ways

WORDS BY MICHELLE TCHEA

n 2003, the world was introduced to ‘New Nordic cuisine’. One restaurant, Noma, seemingly went rogue. White tablecloths were swapped out for rustic wooden tables; caviar was taken off the menu and replaced with moss, kelp and pickled pinecones; and fermentation became the main technique in the kitchen. Co-founder and chef René Redzepi’s ambition was clear: reimagine fine-dining in the Nordics, champion sustainability and fundamentally improve eating habits across Denmark. Redzepi’s approach was considered outlandish when he opened Noma back then, with his cuisine going beyond regular dining experiences. The restaurant had a test kitchen and fermentation lab – a space of experimentation that highlighted underrated ingredients to create a new ‘luxury’ in fine dining. The world responded with criticism, scrutiny and, eventually, applause: Noma topped the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list five times before receiving its third Michelin star in 2021, among other accolades.

LEFT The Noma dining room that set the scene for New Nordic cuisine

Some may argue it became the most influential restaurant in the world. “Noma’s influence extends far beyond a specific style of cooking,” says chef Jonathan Bernsten from Michelin-starred Copenhagen restaurant The Samuel. “Their philosophy has not only influenced chefs and restaurants, but has also filtered down to the wider Danish public, fostering a greater awareness of where ingredients come from,” says the Denmark native.

A LONG LEGACY While Redzepi is credited for his talents and foresight in carving out an entire new cuisine in the Nordics and around the world, his legacy remains strong because of the people who worked beside him. Since Noma’s launch, thousands of budding chefs have come and gone – building the kitchen and its empire beyond the inner confines of the Danish capital. Scurvy-grass, samphire and fermented mushrooms could only be brought to such tantalising heights by young hands willing to learn. And Noma proudly promoted its fluctuating staffing model, which has now grown to more than 100 at one time in the test kitchen, fermentation lab, garden and, most recently, coffee roastery. Grit and tenacity have proven dividends for restaurant alumni, with many now fronting their own globally acclaimed dining rooms. L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U | 1 5 9

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“Noma’s influence extends far beyond a specific style of cooking.” With Copenhagen having hosted the Michelin Guide Ceremony for the Nordic Countries in June 2026, we are seeing that despite Noma’s influence – a singular restaurant putting the city on the culinary map – it no longer defines the Danish capital’s gastronomic gravitas. Thanks to a young brigade of ambitious chefs who are now building Copenhagen’s reputation as a top food city, there’s never been a better time to dine in the Nordics.

THE CHEF NETWORK Contributing to the culinary prowess of the city – from fine-dining restaurants, wine bars and even bakeries – Noma alumni are a common force throughout Copenhagen. Restaurants include Fiskebaren, opened by former Noma restaurant manager Anders Selmer, with head chef Jamie Lee in the kitchen. Located in the newly revived meatpacking district of Copenhagen, Fiskebaren spotlights lesser-known and underappreciated seafood. There is also Bar Vitrine – a cool wine bar led by Indian-born Dhriti Arora who worked at Noma for four years, as well as Rosio Sanchez, the former Noma pastry chef who owns the highly popular Mexican eatery Hija de Sanchez. Matt Orlando, former head chef at Noma, says the restaurant’s legacy lives on through the alumni. “Noma really gives you a platform to excel after leaving. But with that

ABOVE LEFT Restaurant Samuel chef Jonathan Bernsten at work © MTJ Studio ABOVE RIGHT Fine dining at The Samuel © MTJ Studio OPPOSITE Local ingredients have always stolen the scene at Noma

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C AS UA L N O M A A LU M N I At Copenhagen’s Hart Bageri, find cinnamon buns and sourdough bread. Popl is famous for its burgers, while Slurp Ramen is a go-to for Japanese noodle soups.

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platform comes the responsibility to carry the torch and represent where you came from in your own unique way,” says Orlando, who started working at Noma in 2005, two years after it opened. Fuelled by what he learned at Noma but with his own approach, Orlando is no longer known for his time there but instead, his first restaurant, Amass which closed in 2022. The American-born chef recently returned to Copenhagen to open his latest venture, Esse – a fully circular, sustainably-focused restaurant dedicated to fermentation. Housed in an industrialstyle building with a garden, cooking school and research centre, Esse is unique and yet, some would say, very Nomaesque. “I think it would be naïve to say the city doesn’t benefit from having Noma. To quote a friend, ‘Noma-nomics is alive and well’,” says Orlando.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT Noma’s daring approach to be different has allowed other chefs in Copenhagen to push boundaries – and not just those who cut their teeth in the restaurant’s kitchen. Non-Noma alumni have been able to go off-piste with their restaurants because the city now has a reputation as an incubator for outstanding dining experiences. “Noma has generated significant international attention and enthusiasm around Danish restaurants as a whole,” says Bernsten. “Food enthusiasts and gastronomic tourists who travel here to dine at restaurants such as Noma will typically

ABOVE Esse’s roasted scallop with lactic pumpkin seed butter, hazelnut and brown butter © Emily Wilson OPPOSITE Seasonal seafood becomes a work of art at Noma

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H OW TO T RY N O M A , N OW At the moment, experiencing Noma is less about securing a traditional long-term reservation in Copenhagen and more about following the evolution of the brand through limited residencies, pop-ups and its growing creative arm, Noma Projects. While the restaurant continues to host seasonal services and occasional bookings in Copenhagen, much of the energy has shifted toward immersive international residencies – most recently a sold-out 16-week Los Angeles takeover running from March to June 2026. For those unable to score a table, Noma Projects offers another way into the world of René Redzepi, through experimental pantry products, flavour shops and collaborations that bring the restaurant’s fermentationdriven philosophy into home kitchens. In Copenhagen, visitors can also stop by the recently opened Noma Projects café and flavour shop at the restaurant’s Refshaleøen headquarters, where coffee, condiments and signature ingredients offer a more accessible taste of the Noma universe.

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also explore other dining experiences,” says the chef, who received a Michelin star four months after opening. Clearly, Copenhagen’s dining scene is being watched with interest by the Michelin inspectors and other formidable food guides. Restaurant Udtryk, run by Aussie-Hong Kong chef Edward Lee, received a Michelin star just 41 days after opening in mid-2025, making it one of the fastest achieving Michelinstar restaurants in the Nordics. While it was Noma that brought Copenhagen to the world, other restaurants are now driving the city forward. “I do not believe that any fine-dining restaurant in Copenhagen exists in the shadow of Noma. While Noma is an exceptional restaurant, Copenhagen is home to a wide range of outstanding and distinctive dining establishments,” says Bernsten. “Collectively, these restaurants contribute to positioning Copenhagen as a leading culinary destination for food enthusiasts, tourists and locals.”

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THE FIFTH ELEMENT Ten years on, Byron Bay’s only luxury beachfront resort has discovered what endures WORDS BY SARAH VERCOE

There’s something that happens when you’ve stayed somewhere more than most. The resort doesn’t feel like a resort anymore – it starts to feel like somewhere you belong. Like home. That kind of loyalty takes more than a good view. At Elements of Byron in Northern New South Wales, it’s taken more than 20 hectares, 10 years, and something that’s come to be known as ‘The Fifth Element’. THE MAKING OF HOME When Elements of Byron first opened on Belongil Beach in 2016, it was built around four elements: earth, air, fire and water. The land on which the resort was created lent itself to the brief. A rare convergence of four distinct ecologies on Bundjalung Country: where ocean meets beach, beach gives way to dunes, dunes dissolve into rainforest and a protected wetland carries the northern edge. Sitting within this landscape rather than over it, each building occupies less than four per cent of the footprint. An intentional design means that more than half the broader estate sits within environmental conservation zoning, with wetlands regenerating, native species returning and guests waking each morning to what that subtle restraint means for someone taking time out. You feel it from the very moment you arrive. Like a sigh you didn’t know you had in you. Rainforest walks, natureled wellness experiences, the distinct quiet of a place that’s comfortable to not fill every corner. “Guests are looking for space, nature, and experiences that genuinely give them a kick,” says general manager

Michael Skinner when describing the draw of Elements of Byron. “The modern interpretation of luxury is access to the extraordinary.” UNFURLING AMONGST THE SLOWNESS OF LIFE What’s unfurled over the last decade is that the extraordinary here is often slower than people first expect. While ‘slow travel’ wasn’t part of the original vision, it’s become firmly embedded in the experience. Long mornings. Days that dissolve into something relaxed, greener, more instinctive. Meals that are built around what’s available locally, seasonal and foraged, under executive chef Craig Robertson’s kitchen philosophy. A pace that asks nothing of you except to be present. At Osprey Spa, this has meant a shift from time-efficient treatments toward immersive rituals focused on nervous system restoration, emotional wellbeing and the kind of rest that takes a day or two to properly settle into. It’s wellness that’s woven into every aspect of Elements of Byron, from villa design right through to the rhythm guests are captured by while here. THE FIFTH ELEMENT: CONNECTION And then, there’s the fifth element itself: human connection. Like a current running beneath the surface, it moves through the team, which has grown from 120 at opening to a seasonal workforce of 200 to 260. Much of the team have been here since the vision first came to life, progressing through the ranks, remembering guests and being remembered by them.

You see it, too, in the roughly 20 per cent of guests who return for multiple stays, some having journeyed here more than a handful of times, often choosing the same villa each year. At first, these escapes were anniversary traditions, or families returning as they grew, soon evolving into something more. “Elements of Byron has become a home away from home,” one guest says. “There’s an immediate sense of calm when you arrive: the sounds of nature, the space, the warmth of familiar faces.” “What stays with guests isn’t just the accommodation or the facilities,” Skinner says. “It’s how they feel here.” Some places you visit. Others you return to. A decade on, time has deepened Elements of Byron into something that feels inevitable. elementsofbyron.com.au

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WHERE

FLAVOURS TAKE FLIGHT In eastern Belize, ancient cacao traditions, Garifuna cooking, and Creole and Mestizo dishes reveal a small country with an unusually layered culinary identity

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LEFT Beachside chilling in San Pedro

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“P

ush with all your strength, Mama!” encourages Ms Gloria, a tiny woman in a block-printed kaftan. I take a deep breath, grit my teeth and push again – to no avail. Her expression alternating between amusement and disbelief, Ms Gloria takes the coconut from my hands and presses it firmly against the iron wedge, where it splits easily into two neat halves. I’ve come to Gloria’s Kitchen in Hopkins Village, Belize, to learn about Garifuna food, one of the country’s four main gastronomic traditions. With less than 500,000 people spread across 23,000 square kilometres, Belize has the lowest population density in Central America – but that doesn’t mean it lacks cultural diversity. Its culinary styles are similarly varied. The common foodie theme is a thread of just-plucked ingredients from the forests, farms and waters of the country’s biodiverse landscape. Dining is a particular treat in the east.

CREOLE & MESTIZO FOOD IN SAN PEDRO Ambergris Caye is Belize’s largest island and a popular tourist spot, thanks to superb snorkelling at Hol Chan Marine Reserve. In San Pedro, its largest town, I join Belize Food Tours guide Melva Cawich. Rice-and-beans, Belize’s most typical dish, is a Mestizo and Creole staple.

ABOVE Exploring produce markets in Belmopan RIGHT Placencia is known for its golden beaches and fresh seafood

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“If you go more than a few days without eating it, you start to crave it,” Cawich tells me as we dodge the town’s everpresent golf carts and duck into 52-year-old Elvi’s Kitchen. Under a royal poinciana tree growing up through the ceiling, we sip fresh watermelon juice and sample Elvi’s Creole-style rice-and-beans with coconut milk, fried snapper and tangy pico de gallo. At no-frills Briana’s Food Place, we snack on fry jacks – crisp pockets of fried dough served with syrup or jam for breakfast, or with stewed meats and beans for dinner. Briana’s come with dipping sauces: hot, fiery hot and what Cawich calls “comatose-level hot”. The big difference between food in the cayes and on the mainland is “there are a lot more, and better, seafood options”, Cawich says. I get a taste of it, plus Belize’s superb citrus, at beachfront Lily’s Treasure Chest. Here, we tuck into shrimp-and-fish ceviche marinated in lemon and lime juice, served with tomato, onion and habanero. Even the key-lime pie at Gill-E’s Pour House, where we end the evening, seems impossibly vibrant.

TRACING THE SACRED ROOTS OF CHOCOLATE Thirty minutes south via seaplane, near the 51,000-hectare Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary and Jaguar Preserve, lies Maya Centre, a traditional home of the Mopan Maya, one of three Indigenous Maya peoples of Belize and superb artisanal chocolate makers. In Belize, one of the earliest known uses of chocolate dates back to 600 BCE, when the Maya mixed ground cacao beans with water to create xocolatl, a bitter, frothy ceremonial drink. Cacao beans were so valuable then, they were even used as currency. At a 2.5-hectare farm thick with cacao evergreens, I stoop under low-growing branches bearing football-shaped pods in all stages of ripeness, from hard and green to the wrinkled, purple-red of a fruit ready to yield its treasures. Against the tok-tok-tok of ceiling fans at Che’il Mayan Chocolate Factory, I progress from bean to bar, grinding roasted seeds with a supersized mortar-and-pestle made of volcanic stone, mixing melted grounds with sugar and cacao solids, before pouring it into moulds. Afterward, I nibble cooled chocolate squares – marvelling at their smoothness even without the addition of milk – selected from among Che’il’s 20 flavours to take home.

GARIFUNA COUNTRY Belize is home to one of the world’s largest populations of Garifuna people – descendants of West African survivors of colonial human trafficking whose ships were wrecked off the Caribbean island of St. Vincent around 1675, and were later exiled to the Honduran coast. Visitors can experience their distinctive food, music, history and dance via the Garifuna Trail, launched in 2022 in Hopkins Village. ABOVE, TOP A lush spice farm in Belize ABOVE, BOTTOM Naïa Resort & Spa

RIGHT Fresh coconut cracked during a cooking class in Hopkins Village

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S I P T H I S WAY Taste Belize also offers a tour that explores the history of rum, the country’s national drink. Thanks to a booming sugarcane industry, Belize makes some of the finest rums in Central America, known for their depth, complexity and smoothness.

ABOVE xxx

OPPOSITE, FROM TOP xxxxxx xxxxxx

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“Belize is a remarkable culinary crossroads, where several cultures have woven their flavours into a lush tapestry of taste.” “If we have something but our neighbours don’t, we share. We make sure this culture stays alive,” says Ms Gloria. In her outdoor cook space, we craft hudut, a hearty fish stew with mashed plantains. It’s a hands-on effort that requires pounding plantain flesh, stoking the cookfire with logs and dried coconut shells, and flipping red snapper caught that morning by Ms Gloria’s husband. The resulting stew – with creamy coconut offset by grassy okra and nutty snapper – is so memorable that I continued to think of it hours later, as I stand in an agate-coloured pool at the base of a waterfall in the Belizean jungle, swarmed by dozens of tiny ‘doctor fish’ that nip at the calluses on my feet.

HONOURING TRADITIONS IN PLACENCIA Along the expat-magnet Placencia Peninsula, Naïa Resort & Spa’s 38 freestanding, Caribbean Sea-facing beach houses and villas occupy a pristine stretch of white sand. Head chef Anthony Ramirez, part of Naïa’s 100 per cent Belizean staff, says the key ingredient at their restaurants is ‘love’. The variety of local seafood, citrus that tastes like it just dropped off a tree, and recipes representing all of Belize’s main cuisine styles doesn’t hurt, either.

Among the standout dishes at the resort is darasa, a Garifuna green-banana tamale in coconut milk, seasoned with orange and lime juice. Maya and Creole gastronomy collide in sauteed callaloo – the leafy greens of the amaranth plant – served with scrambled eggs, sausages and soft corn tortillas. In seafood dukunu, a perfect storm of Mestizo, Creole and Maya cuisine, masa-stuffed corn husks arrive topped with a piquant seafood mixture. Although still a developing country, Belize is a remarkable culinary crossroads where several cultures have woven their flavours into a lush tapestry of taste. From shores to forests and the centuries-old agricultural landscapes in between, each bite offers insight into heritage and community, and a journey through a complex and fascinating history.

FOODIE NOTES Book a guided food tour of Maya Centre, Hopkins Village and Placencia with Taste Belize Tours. tastebelize.com

ABOVE Sampling hudut in Hopkins Village on a foodie tour with Taste Belize

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DIVE INTO

THE UN

ISSN 1443-3079

9 771443 307001

OCEAN CRUISING + EX

JAPAN + COPENHAGEN + THAILAND + FIJI + AU SOUTH AFRICA + COLORADO + SUMBA + GLAS ISSUE 83 | AUTUMN 2023 | $14.95

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GO YOUR OWN

WAY

Most boats in Ha Long Bay follow the same convoy routes, but Bhaya Soul charts its own course, transforming one of Vietnam’s busiest tourist waterways into a blissfully empty refuge for wellness and stillness

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t’s a race the moment we leave the dock. Around 30 boats surge toward the same narrow channel, horns blaring, engines turning the surface into a churn of white wake. Then, almost as quickly, the flotilla begins to thin. Craft peel away, folding into the main cruising routes of Ha Long Bay. We keep going straight. Within 15 minutes, the noise drops away entirely and we’re the only ones left. Ha Long Bay stretches across more than 1,900 islands and islets in Vietnam’s Tonkin Gulf, a UNESCO World Heritage landscape that draws millions of visitors each year. But out here, it is strangely deserted. Bhaya Soul, the newest vessel in Bhaya Cruises’ fleet, operates under permits allowing access to quieter anchorages of the bay, rather than the main corridors. For two days, I am one of just 34 guests drifting through the landscape, far removed from the high-turnover day boats. This deliberate move away from the crowds is central to Bhaya Soul, a vessel whose name was born from a desire to move beyond standard sightseeing and leave a lasting emotional impression. “Soul represents a journey that nourishes not only the body, but also the mind, spirit and connection to oneself,” Tran Thanh Nam, CEO of Bhaya Cruises, tells me.

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WHILE YO U ’ R E H E R E Available upon request, you can extend the trip into a five-day itinerary called the ‘Indochine Soul’ package. It connects the cruise with a night at the Fairmont Hanoi and a two-night stay at Namia River Retreat in Hoi An in a private pool villa, which comes with a 90-minute wellness treatment.

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“It is the first time in a while I realise how much mental noise I usually treat as normal, and how sometimes it takes a detour into these empty pockets of the world to finally hear yourself again.”

OPENER Bhaya Soul cruising Ha Long Bay © Bhaya Cruises TOP, LEFT Meals are as pretty as they are tasty © Natasha Bazika TOP, RIGHT Bhaya Soul’s dining room © Bhaya Cruises OPPOSITE PAGE Daily life on the waterway © Natasha Bazika

A DESIGN APART Bhaya Cruises has spent nearly two decades navigating these waters, building its reputation on traditional wooden vessels defined by dark timber and Indochine styling. Bhaya Soul is the first ship in the fleet to sport a contemporary look, with pale woods, sea-blue accents and open communal spaces that keep the landscape in constant view. Nam describes it as an evolution rather than a departure. “We wanted to create something beyond conventional luxury cruising, a boutique retreat where wellness, cultural immersion and design come together,” he says. “And space. Space is one of the rarest luxuries today.” I spend my stay in one of the two 80-square-metre Soul Legacy Suites at the ship’s curved bow, the largest rooms on board and the only ones with wraparound balconies. One deck above, the cylindrical bar spills out onto a heated pool terrace, while below, the wellness area offers massages and complimentary 40-minute herbal foot baths.

FOOD FOR THE SOUL In keeping with the ship’s wellness-led ethos, the culinary team serves nourishing local Vietnamese dishes, individually plated and thoughtfully refined. “Food connects guests directly to the destination,” Nam says. “Whether at sunrise or among the limestone peaks, meals are a chance to slow down and take in the landscape.” The first lunch served on board is a three-course introduction to Ha Long Bay seafood. It starts with a whole tempura soft-shell crab resting on a green mango salad,

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followed by local octopus, chargrilled and tossed in XO sauce. The main, Ha Long grouper, arrives with brown rice noodles served in a hand-woven basket, all while we’re sailing between limestone islands that look as if they were tossed across the water and left where they landed. Dinner continues the playfulness. Dessert arrives as a crème brûlée hidden inside a ceramic dinosaur egg, set in twigs. I dig in with a gold shovel the size of a teaspoon.

WELLNESS IN MIND Around 9pm, after a failed attempt at squid fishing off the stern, I join a sleep-well meditation session. My back presses into the top deck, softened just enough by a thin foam mat to make the wood feel less like, well, wood. Our host Emma strikes a singing bowl. The sound ripples and settles deep in my bones. I exhale. “Let your mind wander,” Emma says softly. And it does drift, back to the last few hours paddling around Ba Ham Lake. With kayaks stored on board, a group of us had dropped straight into the water from the ship’s anchorage, avoiding the main jetties and crowded departure points. Even now, against the fading hum of the sound bowl, my body remembers the pull through the shoulders, the blade cutting through water and a silence not unlike this one. It is the first time in a while I realise how much mental noise I usually treat as normal, and how sometimes it takes a detour into these empty pockets of the world to finally

hear yourself again. “When you’re ready, slowly come back to me,” Emma says. I open my eyes to stars scattered across the sky. On the last morning, we enter Tiên Ông Cave before it opens to the public, walking slowly beneath pointy stalactites. With the sound of a singing bowl still ringing in the air, the pressure to do or consume simply falls away. A second Soul vessel, a replica, is in development. Beyond that, Nam says future ships will draw on the same principles of wellbeing, boutique scale and deeper connection to place. I think back to a few days before the cruise, over a shared dinner table in Hanoi, when a couple from the Netherlands warned me that Ha Long Bay was the most overcrowded, chaotic place they’d encountered on their travels. Clearly, they weren’t on the right boat.

JOURNEY NOTES Bhaya Soul sails year-round, but the mood shifts. Choose winter and early spring for quiet, mist-shrouded wellness journeys and soft light; or late spring and autumn for clear skies and warm seas ideal for swimming. bhayasoul.com

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I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H M A R R I O T T B O N V OY R E S O R T S I N F I J I

RHYTHM AND BLUES: THE FIJI PLAYLIST Whether it’s luxury, lifestyle or family reconnection, this South Pacific paradise delivers W O R D S B Y S U S A N S K E L LY

As a holiday choice, Fiji could not be more multi-layered. Those seeking new connections, luxury seclusion, wellbeing activities or a total reset, will find them all within this South Pacific archipelago, home to 300 islands and as many memories in the making. Fiji has a unique rhythm – the rhythm of ripples on reefs, the drumbeats of Fijian dance, village life cycles (fishing, cooking, gathering), the rhythm of a hammock in synch with a warm breeze, or – the holy grail – the gentle rhythm of relaxation. This island hotspot accessorises with just about every shade of blue: dive into waters that are turquoise, vibrant aqua, emerald or deep oceanic blue, and explore an underwater wonderland rich with the rest of the paintbox – a playground for reef reconnaissance, snorkelling, water sports and swimming. Fiji is as bountiful as it is beautiful. From luxury bures to modern villas, beach-bathing to world-class surf breaks

(the Fiji Pro World Surf League hits town late August), golfing on the island fairway to traditional Fijian entertainment – these Marriott properties take the guesswork out of where to stay. FIJI MARRIOTT RESORT MOMI BAY This resort lures holidaymakers seeking an introduction to rich Fijian culture. On the secluded south-western coast of Viti Levu, Fiji’s main island, find good times at their most premium. The resort has 250 rooms and bures, the latter with both lagoon and ocean views. Chill with guided or self-paced paddleboarding at first light. Book breakfast on your private bure deck. Give back to the environment by planting mangroves. Young guests – from four to 12 years – can expend their energy at the Adventure Academy. Seek out signature treatments at Quan Spa (the seashell massage is a twist on the hot stone massage, but instead uses heated, polished seashells to impart restorative warmth). Soak up a Fijian

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Enjoy food every which way – from themed buffet nights and family-style dining at Island 619 to beachfront winepaired dinners and chef-led degustations. For premium seafood, hand-cut meats, sliders and local produce, head to Tatavu Grill & Bar, which is also one of the best spots for sunset fire dancing. Want nightlife with that? Seek out cocktail culture and late-night speakeasy sophistication at Cellar & Barrel. SHERATON DENARAU VILLAS Right next door is a sister resort, Sheraton Denarau Villas, close to the embarkation point for Port Denarau island cruises and marine excursions. There are 82 villas, with a mix of twoand three-bedroom options fronting either garden, pool or beach. Enhance the holiday mood with private villa breakfasts and poolside family mornings. In the afternoon, roadtest the various swimming options. It’s an easy walk to restaurants, kids’ activities, and wellness facilities shared by the two Sheraton properties on Denarau. The villas have a kitchenette for in-villa dining when you need to scale down the fun.

SHERATON RESORT & SPA, TOKORIKI ISLAND This family-friendly Sheraton also comes with an adults-only section that attracts honeymooners, couples and those who want a private island escape. The 101-room resort is a taxi ride from Nadi International Airport to Port Denarau Marina, then a 1.5-hour high-speed ferry ride or a 15-minute helicopter flight to the island, part of the Mamanucas – a guarantee of Fiji’s signature turquoise waters, vibrant coral reefs, and lush tropical landscapes. Guests can paddleboard in the morning, snorkel to the island’s reef from the shore, book a soothing wrap at the Spa – the largest in the Mamanucas – sip cocktails while soaking up a sunset, or order an intimate beachfront dinner. Foodies dine at Curcuma, an Indianfusion restaurant, and at Waitui House, where there’s an international menu available all day. Whichever of these properties ticks the holiday boxes, beauty and bounty are the gifts with purchase. marriott.com

sunset with oysters and champagne at Fish Bar. Or experience local seafood featured on the signature Salt Menu. The Momi Sunset Ritual gathering marks the end of the day, welcoming evening with ceremonial fire lighting and, later, some dazzling stargazing. SHERATON FIJI GOLF & BEACH RESORT Just 20 minutes from Nadi International Airport, the Sheraton is – with 300 rooms – one of Denarau Island’s ‘big buzz’ destinations, especially popular with intergenerational families and those attracted by zero-stress travel. Expect to be swept up in the unique rhythms of Fiji the minute you arrive. Have a swim, enjoy watersports, try marina activities, chill in beachfront cabanas and savour island day trips. Head for the 18-course championship golf course, or maybe the tennis courts – synthetic and grass. There’s a fitness studio for those whose wellbeing pivot starts now.

TOP LEFT Poolside at Sheraton Fiji Golf & Beach Resort © Monica Jake TOP MIDDLE Luxe overwater bures at Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay

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CROATIA UNCORKED

From Istria to Hvar, Croatia’s deep-rooted food and wine culture is finding new international recognition, as Michelin-starred dining, boutique vineyards and coastal hospitality recast the country beyond the summer beach escape

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roatia is well known for its rich history and enchanting natural beauty – dazzling beaches included. Lesser known is its evolved gastronomy scene. The wine culture imbued in the ancient Greco-Roman era is enjoying a renaissance, and Croatia is repackaging itself as a year-round epicurean escape beyond the sand. Defying jet-lag, my mother and I scale cobbled streets in Rovinj’s alluring historic centre to sample the pinnacles of Croatian gastronomy at Monte, the country’s first Michelinstarred restaurant. Awarded its star in 2017, the same year a further 34 Croatian restaurants were recommended by Michelin, Monte remains family-owned and run after three generations. By 2025, when we visit, the Michelin Guide Croatia selection has grown to 98 restaurants, including one two-star restaurant, 12 one-star restaurants, 12 Bib Gourmands and three Green Stars. The impressive wine list at Monte is hand-picked by the family, and on this first evening in Croatia we are served the tastiest vintage we will have on our journey: an Enjingi-

LEFT Fine dining in restaurant Cubo at Hotel Ambasador, Opatija

Venje 2015 (graševina, riesling, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, gewürztraminer) from Slavonia County. Although we are in Istria, the best-known of Croatia’s wine regions (the others being Dalmatia, Slavonia and Danube, and the Croatian Uplands), I establish a preference over seven courses for Slavonian, or ‘Continental’ wines.

ISTRIAN APPETITES An academic exercise in wine-tasting is afforded by San Canzian Hotel and Residences at Michelin-listed Luciano, where restaurant manager Miroslav Miladinov imparts insider knowledge on the wines paired with our seven-course degustation. Our first feast is dedicated to Istrian wines – thereafter we explore Pan-Croatian wines. This luxury hotel set in a Medieval Istrian village is committed to regional experiences, and local flavour is captured in racy wine cocktails like ‘Red and Purple Rain’, comprising fruits and flowers from the surrounds. Glamorous foodies can be spotted on the terrace, which offers views over verdant hills to the Mediterranean beyond. The well-heeled assemble here not so much for the outlook, but for exclusive tastings – with premium wineries like Clai (which revives the ‘natural’ Greek way of wine-making) orchestrating elevated experiences at San Canzian. L U X U R Y T R AV E L M AG . C O M . A U | 1 8 3

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A scenic drive from Split takes us to hill-perched Rizman Winery, whose olive-draped hills cascade steeply down to piercing blue waters. Manager Anamarija Mihaljevićon serves up Croatian hospitality over wine and artisanal cheeses on a cliff-edge terrace that teeters dizzyingly some 250 metres above the ground. After all the fine wine, many guests often haven’t the will – or the wit – to leave, and so the winery also offers rooms along with a superb breakfast. My mother loves Rizman’s homemade olive oil, while my favourite item is the elegant signature Rizman Primus 2021 red wine – both of which Mihaljevićon gifts us upon departure, and are available at the winery’s busy boutique.

CONTINENTAL PLEASURES The adresse incontournable for any wine aficionado is the legendary centurion Esplanade Zagreb Hotel, founded in 1925 to host Orient Express passengers. Our journey at the Esplanade begins at Le Bistro, which pairs French bistro cuisine with Continental Croatian wines. The restaurant manager agrees that these wines from the lush inlands are a connoisseur’s choice, remaining lesser-known than the aggressively marketed Istrian and Dalmatian wines. However, the hotel’s food and beverage manager, the eminently charming Vjenceslav Madic, challenges my preference with crisp Istrian sparkling wine Coronica CO2, with the fines bulles (fine bubbles) found in traditional method French champagne. The hotel’s hauntingly beautiful restaurant Zinfandel’s showcases the nation’s most prestigious labels, with a wine library that spans an entire wall. The restaurant is named after the eponymous grape, with skin as black as a panther’s, which originated in Croatia, migrated to Italy in the 18th century and found its way to California by the mid-19th century. Croatians vaunt that California’s celebrated zinfandel lineage traces back to Croatia’s ancient grape, tribidrag, first discovered near Split on the Dalmatian coast.

ABOVE Michelin-listed Luciano restaurant in the San Canzian Hotel RIGHT Rizman Winery on the outskirts of Split

DALMATIAN TABLES Split is now gaining momentum as Croatia’s ‘destination degustation’, with gastronomic restaurants flourishing along the Mediterranean coast. Unmissable is Michelinrecommended Zoi, whose sea-facing terrace sits beneath the imposing walls of Diocletian’s Palace, and where we enjoy a cutting-edge tasting menu spotlighting premium Dalmatian wine. Dvor, another Michelin-recognised Mediterranean restaurant with alfresco terraces hanging over sea-kissing white sands, has a super-slick sommelier, whom I initially mistake for an Italian count (he is that dapper). Over the most sophisticated wine-pairing I enjoy in Croatia, Vedran Cota questions the hype around Croatian wine, noting that while family-owned boutique vineyards are reviving the country’s winemaking traditions, there remains a reluctance in Croatia to refine – or ‘Frenchify’ – techniques in the way Lebanon has, despite both wine cultures being steeped in Phoenician and Roman history.

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At the captivating restaurant San Marco in Hvar’s magnificent 13th-century Venetian hotel Palace Elisabeth, the food and beverage manager Anna also questions why the French way should be considered ‘the best’ when making or drinking wine. Over three nights she unveils drops exclusively from Hvar, made of autochthonous grapes in keeping with the hotel’s philosophy to promote the island’s own products. The ancient Greeks and Romans came to Hvar and their spirit lives on in not only Greco-Roman ruins, but in how Hvar still drinks fresh, young wines. Indeed, Anna’s colleague presents two wines, strenuously recommending one of them – although I deem the other smoother by far. He reveals the first is made by friends of his and he helped pick the grapes – to him, friendships flourish over the finesse of a wine. The conviviality – as during the Greco-Roman era – rather than connoisseurship still underlines the wine experience in Hvar. SWEET ENDINGS Boškinac Winery on Pag Island is more spirited in its avantgarde approach to house wines, complementing creative cuisine at its Michelin-starred restaurant. We discover Ocu Amber organic wine, a curiosity of 100 per cent gegic, a grape indigenous to Pag island. The owner’s home, transformed into a luxury boutique hotel, offers breakfast on terraces embraced by greenery. Charming Opatija, on the Kvarner Gulf, was once a wellness retreat for Austro-Hungarian aristocracy. Today, its old-world resort culture shows a sweeter side in chocolate experiences such as Lungomare Chocolates, whose festival program has included workshops and sweet designs by Marina Prijatelj. Opatija’s splendid Hotel Ambasador is home to fine-dining restaurant Cubo, known for its suave wine list and craft wine cocktails. Croatian sparkling rosé is offered over breakfast, which can be relished in plush suites or the hotel’s sea-facing, glass-wrapped all-day dining restaurant Fourchette D’Or. We finish an entire bottle. Such is the risk of embarking on a Croatian wine journey.

“The ancient Greeks and Romans came to Hvar and their spirit lives on in not only Greco-Roman ruins, but in how Hvar still drinks fresh, young wines.” TOP Delicate bites at Risman Winery © Marita Bulimbasic

BOTTOM Croatian wines take pride of place at Split’s finedining restaurant Zoi

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R E N D E Z-V O U S

An invitation to gather

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Perdue Hotel

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HOME ON THE COAST What drew you to the NSW South Coast? It was completely by accident, like most of the best things in life. One day, my wife Angie and I just decided to jump in the car and drive south. Angie grew up on the North Coast and I grew up out in the country. Neither of us had ever spent much time south. I remember coming around the bends in Kiama, seeing the rolling green hills and the beach. We both instantly said to each other, “We have to move here.” We did just that one month later. Seven years on, I never get tired of it. After years working in Sydney, what does it mean to open a restaurant closer to home? It seems corny, but it honestly means the world. As our family grew and our kids got older they noticed more and more when I would have to disappear into Sydney for work. It was almost like being a fly-in-fly-out worker. It was tough on them. Besides having more time with my family now, it’s also really important to me to show people why we fell in love with the South Coast: the region, the produce, the people. It has it all. How does Sara Dining express this part of the South Coast? I want Sara to express the unique composition that is Berry and the South Coast. It feels rural because you are on Moraea Farm, but you’re also only 10 minutes from the ocean, so it feels natural to serve seafood. I want people to realise that so much of what they love about Sydney dining

Berry’s newest restaurant is deeply connected to its surrounds. Chef Alex Pritchard explains how the South Coast’s landscapes, growers and coastline inspire the philosophy behind Sara Dining

comes from this region. I also want people to be able to relax, get out of their own bubble and enjoy dining. What does the garden at Moraea Farm bring to the menu? The garden at Moraea brings new challenges – it forces creativity, and I love that. It pushes and drives me. One recent example was when we were planning for the summer opening. I had developed a dish around these incredible zephyr squash flowers we were growing, paired with Margra lamb. Then I realised they were no longer in season. Traditionally you could still just buy zucchini flowers year-round from someone else. But I didn’t want to do that at Sara, so our team pivoted and instead used outer leaves from various brassicas and they were just as good. Which local producers are you excited to work with? Craig Lukey from Soueast Seafoods in Ulladulla is incredible. His dedication and care to turn a species like blue mackerel, which was traditionally seen as baitfish, into a delicacy is the ultimate example of technique – bringing undervalued ingredients to rich dishes. The same goes for Greg Mumm from Rosewood Farm. And Wheelers’ oysters from Pambula are simply best-in-class. What dish on the opening menu captures the spirit of Sara Dining? I think the pavlova. It’s something so simple that everyone in Australia eats and loves. It’s a classic, but with a Sara touch.

When we did the pre-opening shoot with my dear friend Jason Loucas, I saw a photo of a hand pouring strawberry gum sauce from an antique silver jug over the pav. I immediately sent it to the team and said: “This is Sara.” The cream on the pavlova is flavoured with passionfruit marigold, one of the first things I grew in the garden. And the strawberry gum is grown along the farm’s ‘Native Walk’, sourced from Indigigrow. How does travel influence the way you cook? It opens up this incredible alphabet of flavour on your palate. You discover different techniques, ingredients, seasonal influences. What’s your idea of a perfect escape when you’re not in the kitchen? I always want to be by the ocean or in the middle of nowhere. My wife and I have this saying: “It wouldn’t be us if it wasn’t an adventure.” And I love that. We make so many silly mistakes while travelling and absolutely do things the hard way. But that’s all part of life. I love that with my work I get to spend time on remote cattle stations in North Queensland or the NT with Westholme wagyu, or remote pearl farms in the Kimberley with Paspaley pearls. We recently visited a dear friend of ours living in the Cook Islands. I loved it there. I had no phone reception. Everywhere we went, there were pristine beaches and reefs. It was so chilled.

saradining.com.au

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YOUR MAP TO WHERE THE STORIES IN THIS ISSUE COME FROM

ICELAND page 98

ENGLAND

DENMARK

page 158

page 110

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA page 74, 128

CROATIA

FRANCE

page 182

page 146

MOROCCO BELIZE

page 122

MAINLAND CHINA page 142

UZBEKISTAN

HONG KONG

page 80

VIETNAM

page 166

page 94

page 174

INDONESIA page 88

FIJI

page 134

AUSTRALIA

page 116, 150, 190

ANTARCTICA page 66

“We must take adventures to find out where we truly belong.” – UNKNOWN

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Deciding what to order

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Luxury Travel - Spring 2026 Issue