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A publication of Hospitality Services Group Editor Nouhad Dammous Managing Director Joumana Dammous-Salamé Editor Lisa Jerejian Publication Manager Zeina Dammous-Nahas Project and Sales Manager Maha Khoury-Hasbani Writer Rayan Badaoui Publication Executive Rita Ghantous Senior Graphic Designer Ibrahim Kastoun Sales Department Randa Pharaon, Josette Hikri, Vanessa Bitar, Pascale Debs Subscription Coordinators Houayda Haddad-Rouman, Mirna Maroun Circulation Coordinator Rita Nohra Kejijian Production and Printing 53dots
Akoura. Photo: Joe Sokhn
Summer curiosities Oh how we love summer in Lebanon. It’s a season bursting with energy, when seemingly endless days blend into magical nights and excitement fills the air. Whether you are a nature lover or a sun worshipper, Lebanon will not disappoint you over the coming months. The country is teeming with possibilities and, just to prove it, we’ve compiled a whole host of suggestions in this issue. Our journey takes us to the coast to find the best and newest beaches where you can swim and get the perfect tan. We also check out getaways up and down the country and explore the latest guesthouses with awe-inspiring views. We then set off to Anjar to discover some of its many highlights and guide you around Lebanon’s valleys and nature reserves.
Published by Hospitality Services s.a.r.l. Burghol Building, Dekwaneh, Lebanon P.O.Box 90 155 Jdeidet el Metn 1202 2020 To advertise call 01 480081 We welcome views on any relevant subject. The editor reserves the right to select and edit letters. Please e-mail your comments to info@lebanontraveler.com All the information disclosed in the magazine was provided by the parties concerned with each publication and checked to the highest possible extent by the editors. However, the magazine cannot ensure accuracy at all times of all information published and therefore could in no case be held responsible should any information reveal to be false or insufficient.
In Beirut, we wander around the city’s libraries and take a closer look at some of Basta’s hidden gems. We then hit the glamorous rooftop bars of the pulsating capital for sunset drinks and some late night partying. Besides all the information we have crammed into the magazine, there are plenty of other trip ideas on our website, lebanontraveler.com. We are constantly updating the platform to bring you the latest news, hottest destinations and coolest activities, so make it your go-to reference. As always, we extend a word of gratitude to our contributors who have enriched Lebanon Traveler with their wonderful articles and photographs, and thank our readers for their loyalty and encouragement. This magazine would not be possible without this precious support. All that’s left to say is be curious this summer and enjoy every moment. Your inner child will thank you for it!
Cover photo by Rami Rizk
Follow him on rami_rizk89
Passionate about photography, Rami captured the cover photo with his drone while visiting the coastal town of Anfeh in North Lebanon. He was amazed by the beauty of the rock formation and the contrast between the sea and the lagoon.
lebanontraveler.com Follow us @lebanontraveler
# Hashtag us #LebanonTraveler Like us LebanonTraveler Write to us info@lebanontraveler.com
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CONTENTS 06 Contributors
Names and faces behind Lebanon Traveler
42
08 Shopping
32 21 21
Items with a Lebanese twist
Top summer road-trip destinations
42 66 21 26 40 63 52 68
16 Top tips with Nemr Abou Nassar
67 40
10 Interview with Nadine Labaki
The woman behind the Lebanese dream
14 Hot topic
World-class comedian
18 Reader's experience
22
24
An afternoon with the radio star Tanguy Faucon
20 Responsible Lebanon
Nature reserves around the country
22 Focus on Anjar
64
24
Five things to do
24 Hidden gems
Four awesome valleys
26 Indoors
Libraries open to the public
28 Culinary heritage
49 Summer guide
30 Customs and traditions
58 Lebanon in pictures
32 The great escape
62 Getaways
The sweet taste of kaak Arabic calligraphy
Boufa Ehden, North Lebanon
34 Outdoor action
Relaxing activities to clear your mind
36 Design in Lebanon
David/Nicolas, Jessica K and Selim Mouzannar
40 Iconic places
Four extraordinary palaces
44 Region through an artist's eyes The world of Roger Moukarzel
46 Religious tourism
Two captivating cathedrals
lebanontraveler.com
Beaches, rooftop bars and Lebanese restaurants Instagram photo journey Four coastal treasures
66 Best beds
Beit Fares wa Lucia, Beit Lebbos and La Maison du Bonheur
68 On the trail
Basta and Bachoura
70 Agenda
A roundup of the best events
74 Guide at a glance
Directory of places, eco-tourism specialists and more
30
Customs and traditions
66
Best beds
52
Rooftop bars
10 Nadine Labaki 40
Iconic places
34 Outdoor action 14
Road trips
50
Beaches
24
Valleys
44
Roger Moukarzel
6
CONTRIBUTORS Pia Abboud
Founder of Discovery Beyond Borders, a travel blog and tour company, Pia is a heritage management specialist. She loves to step outside her comfort zone and enjoy authentic experiences with the locals wherever she finds herself. discoverybeyondborders.com discoverybeyondborders
Jad Assi
Jad is an adventurous athlete who likes to go on hikes and discover hidden gems. His sole desire is to explore the most beautiful parts of Lebanon and spread a message of positivity. trainwithjad
Marc El Beyrouthy
Marc has years of experience in the fields of agriculture, environment and biology. He has authored and co-authored several scientific publications, has made more than 1,400 TV appearances, and works as a lecturer at USEK. marcbeyrouthy.com naturebymarcbeyrouthy
Nadine Chemali
Nadine is a computer engineer who dreams of visiting every corner of the world. When she is not traveling she is a tourist in her country. She shares her adventures on her blog, Infinite Curl. infinitecurl.com infinitecurl
Dr. Nour Farra-Haddad
Nour has a PhD in anthropology and is a professor. Besides managing her own travel consultancy firm, NEOS, she developed "EcoLebanon: Nature and Rural Tourism," "Wiz Kids" guidebooks and the Holy Lebanon app. neoslb.com
Antonio Haber
When he’s not at the office, Antonio enjoys going on trips and sharing stories through his photos. His passion for photography started many years ago; the shots capture his feelings and remind him of all the hidden places he has visited. antoniohab
Zeinab Jeambey
With a background in nutrition, food heritage and tourism, Zeinab developed Darb el Karam, the first food tourism trail in Lebanon, a key program of the Food Heritage Foundation. food-heritage.org foodheritagefoundation foodheritage lebanontraveler.com
Nidal Majdalani
Nidal is a keen photographer, hiker, and environment and heritage activist. She always travels across Lebanon and shares her experiences through photo-based articles on her blog and prominent websites. travellinglebanon.blog nidal.majdalani travellinglebanon
Dr. Maya Nehme
Maya is director of the Lebanon Reforestation Initiative. She’s passionate about Lebanon and dreams of seeing Lebanon’s highlands alive with diverse forests and active wildlife. lri-lb.org
Nada Raphael
After living in Canada for 17 years, Nada returned to Lebanon to promote the beauty and richness of her homeland. She is co-founder of Electrochocks SARL, and Tourleb, a tourism project that promotes trips around the country. tourleb
Krystel Riachi
Krystel ensures she always quenches her thirst for wandering by exploring Lebanon and the world at large. Full of stories to tell, she launched a travel blog, Notes of a Traveler, which she fills with inspiring travel stories. notesofatraveler.com notes.of.a.traveler
Rami Rizk
Driven by Lebanon's magnificent landscapes, Rami is passionate about aerial photography and videography, which is now his career. His goal every day is to be the best version of himself. rami_rizk89
Joe Sokhn
Joe is an IT engineer, whose interests include technology, photography and nature. He enjoys hiking, flying drones and practicing water sports. He aims to show the beautiful landscapes of Lebanon through his lens. joe.sokhn soowarshop We are always delighted to receive articles and pictures from enthusiastic writers and photographers. If you would like to contribute to Lebanon Traveler magazine and lebanontraveler.com, send an email to info@lebanontraveler.com
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SHOPPING
THE LEBANON TRAVELER
WISH LIST
We simply can’t get enough of these items that celebrate Lebanon in their own unique way.
USE BEIRUT PHONE COVER by Superfollies
Make a statement with one of these eye-catching leather phone covers. 52,500 LBP (35 USD) superfollies.site123.me superfollies.lb
MONEY CLIP
by Proud Lebanon
OLIVIER COLLECTION
Now you can carry your cash in style with these patriotic money clips, available in silver and gold. Starting from 97,500 LBP (65 USD) proud.lb
by L’artisan du Liban
Inspired by the olive tree, this new tableware collection mixes elegance with modernity. Starting from 30,000 LBP (20 USD) lartisanduliban.com artisanduliban
DISPLAY GIBRAN KHALIL GIBRAN PRINT by WAFFF Studios
Honoring Lebanon’s most renowned figures, these art prints will add a unique touch to your wall. Starting from 27,000 LBP (18 USD) wafffstudios.com wafff.studios wafffstudios
LEBANON CALLIGRAPHY FAYROUZ CLOCK by Michel Azar
Give the gift of time with this quirky clock featuring digital-printed calligraphy. 90,000 LBP (60 USD) micheslazar.com lebanontraveler.com
by SponTanios
If you’re a fan of calligraphy, this handwritten piece is perfect for you. 75,000 LBP (50 USD) spontaniosworld
More online lebanontraveler.com
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WEAR LOULOU’S BELT
by Comptoir des Artisans Inspired by traditional Lebanese cane furniture, these colorful leather belts make the perfect summer accessory. 180,000 LBP (120 USD) comptoirdesartisans
ARABIC COFFEE CUP EARRING by Scene Beirut
This delicate earring is whimsical in design and ideal for any Arabic coffee lover. 45,000 LBP (30 USD) scenebeirut.com scene_beirut
scenebeirut
BEIRUT RINGS by Sofifolie
Paying tribute to the city’s iconic landmarks, these funky rings will add a touch of sparkle to your fingers. 60,000 LBP (40 USD) sofi.folie sofifolie.leb
ABOU EL ZOULOUF T-SHIRT by Inoui
Keep cool this summer with one of these handembroidered t-shirts created in collaboration with Lebanese graphic novelist and illustrator Zeina Abirached. Starting from 67,500 LBP (45 USD) inoui.beirut inoui.beyrouth
READ THE STORYTELLER
WANDER BEIRUT
Set in Germany and Beirut, this moving and engaging novel tells the story of Samir and the challenges he faces regarding family secrets, love and friendship.
This fun and practical guidebook will help you navigate the streets of the capital and discover many of its highlights.
by Pierre Jarawan
18,000 LBP (12 USD) Available on amazon.com
by Yasmine Darwich and Lynn Soubra
24,000 LBP (16 USD) Available online and at bookshops around Lebanon. lebanontraveler.com
10 INTERVIEW
NADINE LABAKI THE WOMAN BEHIND THE LEBANESE DREAM
CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR SUCCESS! YOUR LATEST FILM, "CAPHARNAÜM," HAS RECEIVED RAVE REVIEWS AND HAS WON MORE THAN 23 AWARDS AT NUMEROUS FILM FESTIVALS AS WELL AS FIVE PRESTIGIOUS NOMINATIONS AT THE OSCARS, GOLDEN GLOBES, CRITICS CHOICE AWARDS, BAFTAS AND CÉSARS. HOW DID YOU FEEL WHEN YOU WON THE JURY AWARD AT CANNES? What a moment - it was one of the best in my life! But what felt even better was when we were nominated for the official selection at the Cannes Film Festival. It was the first step towards the world of big movie directors. We worked so hard on this film and our team spent the last four years giving everything they had to it.
lebanontraveler.com
AND THE MOST AMAZING PART IS THAT THE ACTORS AND ACTRESSES IN THE MOVIE ARE NOT PROFESSIONALS, CORRECT? The majority of the people who acted in the movie didn’t even have a document to prove their existence. They lived in marginalized communities. Then, all of a sudden, they were thrust under the spotlight. Now when Zein appears in festivals around the world he is given a standing ovation. A year ago he was living a very tough life and had never been to school; he could barely write his own name. The only good thing was that his parents knew how to love and protect him despite the misery they were living in. Now their lives are much better. THIS IS THANKS TO THE MOVIE, ISN’T IT? During the filming, the UNHCR experts came and interviewed Zein’s family. They applied
for asylum and two days after our return from Cannes we received the official letter that Zein and his family had been accepted in Norway. If you could only see Zein’s new life… I still ask myself when I will wake up from this dream! "CAPHARNAÜM" HAS TOUCHED MILLIONS OF PEOPLE AROUND THE WORLD. WHY DO YOU THINK THAT IS? Probably because you are watching real people; because you know that it’s not a movie but a real problem. Misery, migrantworker issues, human trafficking, child marriage, non-registered children… I’m sure you are aware of these problems, but you can choose not to look. However, when you sit in front of the screen, you have to face reality. You know deep down that out on the streets you’ll bump into a thousand Zeins.
More online lebanontraveler.com
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Acclaimed movie director and actress Nadine Labaki has been riding the wave of success of late. Having racked up countless awards and a coveted Oscar nomination, a first for a female Middle Eastern filmmaker, it seems there’s no stopping the Lebanese powerhouse, as Elsa Charabati reveals.
HOW CHALLENGING WAS IT AS A MOTHER TO DIRECT SUCH A FILM? Motherhood gives you more experience in this field. You feel angrier because you want to change the world into a better place for your kids. Being a mum also helped me know what time to film Yonas, the Ethiopian baby, how to make him react in certain ways, and how to make Zein interact with me or the other characters. DO YOU FIND IT DIFFICULT TO WORK WITH YOUR HUSBAND? It’s difficult and easy: easy in the sense that if Khaled hadn’t produced this movie I wouldn’t have done it. He was my biggest supporter and understood all the tiny details that made this movie a success. When we were working on the film, Khaled even created an office area in the building we live
in so I could work while breastfeeding my little daughter, who was six months old at the time. HOW COMMITTED ARE YOU TO LEBANON? Every time I travel I feel I miss Lebanon. But when we live here we all curse our lives, the recklessness of the state… We feel we live on a farm and it’s so sad, especially given the fact that the politicians do not know how to work together for the interest of our country. Nevertheless, there is always hope that urges you to stay here and makes you feel you have a mission to accomplish. EVEN IF THIS MISSION IS DIFFICULT TO ACHIEVE? I have faith in life, and when I really want to do something I’m able to do it however difficult it might seem. Positive thinking leads to positive results.
HOW DO YOU CHOOSE WHICH ISSUES TO TACKLE IN YOUR FILMS? They stem from my current obsessions. With "Capharnaüm" for instance, I always wanted to know more about street children. I needed to understand who these kids are, where they go, if they think about us. DID YOU WORRY THAT THE MOVIE COULD COME ACROSS AS TOO HARSH? There’s no doubt that many people want to be entertained; but the cinema is not just for entertainment, it’s nobler than this. I believe in this mission and I believe that cinema can change things. How many times has a movie changed your viewpoint because of something an actress or actor has said?
12 INTERVIEW WHAT’S THE BEST PART OF YOUR JOB? The best part is my relationship with the cast and my ability to highlight their realities. I try as much as possible to be at the service of the actresses and actors, not the opposite. WHAT ABOUT NADINE LABAKI, THE ACTRESS? Acting allows me to escape my own routine. Sometimes I get bored of being myself - I like to challenge myself. Acting is perhaps the only way I’m able to do that. In real life you cannot act differently every other day. People will think it’s weird. They will say: "She’s nuts!" Acting is the only space where you can be a different person every time.
WHAT MORE DO YOU HOPE TO ACHIEVE WITH THIS FILM? I hope "Capharnaüm" exceeds the limits of a movie: that it opens a discussion to tackle these issues and change the situation. YOU ONCE SAID THAT THE PATH TO THE SUMMIT IS MUCH MORE FULFILLING THAN THE SUMMIT ITSELF. WITH THIS MOVIE YOU REACHED THE TOP. DO YOU FEEL LESS EXCITED ABOUT IT NOW? You have a journey ahead of you, a dream; but once you realize it everything collapses because you have to find another dream. People may think I’m at the height of happiness because the movie is in theaters and has received good reviews. This is not
true. Now I’m more worried and anxious. I was happier when I was filming! IS THERE A BEFORE AND AFTER "CAPHARNAÜM"? In my profession and in this movie in particular, I dived into the lives of these people. I visited many tough places in Lebanon. I lived with these children and tried to understand them better. I felt that I learned from them every day. I really feel I’ve changed; something has changed me. After this adventure I’m definitely not the same person. nadinelabaki.com
NADINE’S PICKS
WHERE DO YOU FEEL INSPIRED? People rather than places inspire me. DESCRIBE YOUR RELATIONSHIP TO LEBANON. It’s a relationship of love and hate. WHERE DO YOU ENJOY WATCHING THE SUNSET? I like to be by the sea. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT BAABDAT, YOUR HOMETOWN? I love my grandmother’s house and our house in the square. WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE RESTAURANT IN BEIRUT? There’s a wine bar in Achrafieh that’s great and very convenient. DO YOU LIKE TO PARTY? I’m really not a nightlife person. WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE DISH? Okra and rice, I guess. But I don’t have traditions; I like trying new things. Repeating the same experience is boring - it’s like watching the same movie over and over again! WHAT’S MOST IMPORTANT TO YOU? My children, my family and that my work has an impact on people. HOW DO YOU ENJOY SPENDING TIME AS A FAMILY? We like to be out in nature. Khaled enjoys making wine and we help him harvest grapes. lebanontraveler.com
12 14 HOT TOPIC
SUMMER DESTINATIONS
It’s time to hit the road! We go on an adventure with travel blogger and amateur photographer Nidal Majdalani to uncover some of Lebanon’s most interesting sites beyond Beirut.
NORTH LEBANON DANNIYEH Comprising 35 villages, this district is known for its vast forests rich in biodiversity. It is also home to the Zahlan Grotto (70 322999), a massive cave system that dates back to the late Jurassic period.
Ammiq
Zahlan Grotto
KFARABIDA
Underwater sea caves are one of the many wonderful things you will find in Kfarabida. The caves are close to the shore and home to sea turtles and other marine life. Contact Abna' Kfarabida (03 149749), a local NGO, to learn more.
MOUNT LEBANON ALEY Known as the "Bride of the Summer" thanks to its cool summers, Aley is packed with interesting things to discover. Deserted old villas are commonplace, as are abandoned silk factories like those in Kfarmatta.
Arnoun
Tyre
LAKLOUK Mountain trails, natural ponds and a thick blanket of clouds characterize Laklouk, a picturesque village where you can enjoy a hike (refer to page 74 for hiking specialists). lebanontraveler.com
Yammouneh
Aley
Supported by
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BAALBECK-HERMEL
BEKAA
HERMEL
OYOUN ORGHOSH
AMMIQ
The Ammiq Wetlands in West Bekaa are among the largest wetlands in the Middle East, which serve as a resting point for migratory and endemic birds. The area is beautiful and peaceful, especially around Tawlet Ammiq restaurant (03 004481).
The stunning lakes of Oyoun Orghosh lie on the eastern foothills of Qornet El Sawda, Lebanon’s highest peak, where they water the arid surroundings. Besides the epic scenery, visitors can enjoy a meal at one of the nearby restaurants.
For the first time in over 1,000 years a mass was held at Saint Maroun Monastery in Hermel earlier this year. This remarkable religious site, which is also known as the "Cave of the Monks," is carved into the side of a mountain and consists of three sections with small chambers and openings.
YAMMOUNEH The 114km drive from Beirut to Yammouneh is long, but the journey is certainly worth it. Visit Yammouneh Nature Reserve (refer to page 21), its great lake and the numerous waterfalls. It's perfect for hiking enthusiasts.
SOUTH LEBANON ARNOUN Overlooking the Litani River near the southern village of Arnoun stands the magnificent Beaufort Castle, a Crusader fortress. After exploring the ruins, enjoy lunch at the on-site restaurant (07 571444).
Kawkaba
HEBBARIYEH Hebbariyeh
The village of Hebbariyeh dates back to 2000 B.C. and is home to one of the most ancient Roman temples in the Middle East, which is dedicated to the god Baal.
KAWKABA
Kfarabida
Laklouk
Known for its olive trees, some of which are 2,000 years old, Kawkaba is a village in the Hasbaya District where traditions live on. Age-old practices of olive harvesting and olive oil production can still be witnessed today.
TYRE Summer wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the ancient coastal city of Tyre. Besides the amazing archaeological ruins, it boasts beautiful beaches, a vibrant souk, a pretty port and a colorful Christian Quarter. Book a guide in Tyre by contacting the Lebanese Tourist Guide Syndicate (tourguideslb.com).
Oyoun Orghosh
Hermel
travellinglebanon.blog nidal.majdalani travellinglebanon lebanontraveler.com
16 TOP TIPS
NEMR
ABOU NASSAR
TELL US SOMETHING ONLY A FEW PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT YOU. My real name is Miyamoto Musashi, but I had to change my name because people in Lebanon kept pronouncing it Miya bil Miya Moujaddara!
The world may be full of uncertainties, but you can be sure that Nemr Abou Nassar will make you laugh. We caught up with the comedian to hear about his career and what he loves about Lebanon. YOU BEGAN PERFORMING STAND-UP COMEDY WHILE YOU WERE STILL A STUDENT AT AUB. WHAT MADE YOU START? I had no choice! As a child I would tell everyone that when I grow up I’m either going to be a stand-up comic or a Ninja Turtle; and with stem-cell research nowhere near where it needs to be to turn me into a Ninja Turtle, I was left with comedy as my only other purpose! Then it became simple; I wanted to be a stand-up comic, and the Middle East was where I was but not where stand up was, so I made it happen. AUB was the first place I could access a stage. Now it’s the biggest industry after live music in the region, and I can’t tell you how happy I am.
YOU SPEND A LOT OF TIME PERFORMING OUTSIDE LEBANON. WHAT DO YOU MISS WHEN YOU’RE AWAY? The Lebanese people, hands down. The only reason Lebanon is Lebanon is because of our people. There are Lebanese people all over the world, but they’re not like the Lebanese living in the country. WHICH PERFORMANCE HAS BEEN THE MOST MEMORABLE AND WHY? The first show I ever charged people to see me was at Hotel de Ville in 2005; it was the show that started it all. I had quit my job, put everything on the line, and walked in with 20-minutes worth of material. I improvised an additional hour and the show was a sell out. I remember driving home from that show and screaming in the car. My blood was pumping and I knew it was the beginning of the rest of my life. DO YOU HAVE ANY EXCITING PROJECTS IN THE PIPELINE? I always do; but there’s nothing official I can announce besides the fact that my Showtime special "No Bombing in Beirut" is now available worldwide! I also have a show coming up on 1 August 2019 at O by Michel Fadel, so you can catch me there! IF YOU WEREN’T A COMEDIAN, WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING? I’d be a Ninja Turtle: Raphael. Every day!
WHAT HIDDEN GEM IN LEBANON WOULD YOU RECOMMEND TO TOURISTS? Oh, that’s easy. At 1:45 am park your car at Sea Sweet in Jounieh. At approximately 2 am they will bring out the first knefe tray. Once you’ve eaten their knefe you’ll realize you’ve never really had knefe before. Then you can leave. There’s nothing better in the whole country, I tell you! IF YOU COULD RUN THE COUNTRY FOR A DAY, WHAT WOULD BE THE FIRST THING YOU’D DO? Make it a law that anyone who wants to give a speech to the masses and is in politics can only do so while wearing a thong and nothing else. If you can get people pumped looking like that, then the destruction is worth it I say! DESCRIBE LEBANON IN THREE WORDS. Hi, keefak? Ça va? That’s four words though. Hmmm, ok, how about this: Taxi? Taxi? Taxi?
NEMR’S HOT PICKS Place to chill out: At home! Café: I’ve never really been fond of going and getting a coffee. I mean, I can make you one right here, you know...at home! Neighborhood: Adma! Live music venue: Cherry’s, but it closed down eons ago. Ever since then there’s nowhere I’m really fond of. Summer activity: Summer is beach season and Rimal is my favorite place to be. nemrcomedy.com
lebanontraveler.com
18 READER'S EXPERIENCE
THE FRENCH CONNECTION Tanguy Faucon is one of the country’s most loved radio presenters. We talk to the Light FM host about his experiences living and working in Lebanon.
WHAT DID YOU KNOW ABOUT LEBANON BEFORE YOU ARRIVED? I knew it was a country that had suffered because of wars; a place that used to be green and was known as the diamond of the Middle East. I felt Lebanon was a place where I could be free. Coming from Montreal, where you’re just a number, this was important to me. I loved the idea of a chaotic city. My father was working in Beirut at the French Embassy and he would tell me stories of how great it was, so I decided to come and ended up staying. WHAT CONVINCED YOU TO MOVE HERE? I studied professional broadcasting and was working in television and radio in Montreal but couldn’t stand the cold anymore. I was supposed to go and live in Brazil and open a surf retreat there. However, my dad convinced me to spend some time here before my trip to South America and I came to Beirut for three weeks. It was so much fun. Being a Frenchman from the South of France made it easy to adapt to the Mediterranean lifestyle. Although I took a huge cut in salary, I didn’t mind. Relocating to Lebanon was the best move I made and I haven’t looked back since. NAME YOUR FAVORITE THINGS ABOUT THE COUNTRY. Definitely the fact that there are more than 300 days of sunshine. The scenery is amazing too. Having the sea, the mountains lebanontraveler.com
and everything else at your fingertips is incredible; it’s like taking France and compressing it. There is always something different to do in Lebanon. YOU’VE BEEN ON LIGHT FM SINCE 1999. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CAREER HIGHLIGHT? There are highlights each and every day. I love sharing time with my listeners and having interviews on air. It’s exciting because you never know who you’re going to meet. This is the beauty of broadcasting.
Lebanon can definitely go forward; changes will happen WHERE IS YOUR FAVORITE REGION IN LEBANON AND WHY? The coast fascinates me because I’m more of a sea person. I always feel at home when I’m in Byblos or Batroun. IF YOU HAD THE POWER TO CHANGE SOMETHING ABOUT THE COUNTRY, WHAT WOULD IT BE? I feel that Lebanon is crowded. There are too many cars and not enough roads and just too much concrete. We spend hours in traffic jams getting nowhere, and every year it gets worse. We need more parks and green areas, and I think it’s time to let the younger generation take over.
WHAT WOULD YOU MISS MOST IF YOU EVER LEFT? The good life, which sounds cliché; but Lebanon has given me so many great moments. It still does. Every time I go away for a few weeks I come back and remember how privileged I am to have this fantastic life despite all the negativity surrounding me. Lebanon can definitely go forward; changes will happen. I believe it and I must think positive for the sake of my children, Jazz and Sky, and all the people I love, including my listeners of course.
TANGUY’S FAVORITES
RESTAURANT - There are so many good ones, but I particularly like Couqley, Bar Tartine, DIVVY and Slate. LEBANESE DISH - Literally all mezze! I love daoud basha too. NEIGHBORHOOD IN BEIRUT - I’d rather escape to the sea or the mountains; I’m not a huge fan of the city. COFFEE SHOP - I like to watch the sunset from my balcony with a nice cappuccino or a cup of tea. SUMMER ACTIVITY - That’s easy; summer is a time to go kitesurfing, surfing or do anything by the sea.
20 RESPONSIBLE LEBANON
NATURE RESERVES IN LEBANON
There has never been a more pressing time to protect Lebanon’s natural wealth. Marc El Beyrouthy, advisor to the Minister of Environment, and Maya Nehme, director of the Lebanon Reforestation Initiative, take us to seven of the country’s nature reserves to learn about their ecosystems and why you should visit them.
lebanontraveler.com
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NORTH LEBANON HORSH EHDEN Situated on the upper northwestern slopes of Mount Lebanon ranging in altitude from 1,200m to 2,000m, Horsh Ehden forest is a unique area of conifers, deciduous and evergreen broadleaf trees that create an isolated phyto-climatic environment with a highly varied topography. Encompassing over 450ha of land, the forest extends over three bio-geographic zones and is home to 39 species of trees. The reserve is the only protected area in Lebanon containing the last remaining forest community of wild apple, the genetic ancestor of apple trees. The forest is also home to 69 breeding bird species, almost 18 percent of the breeding species of Lebanon. 70 601601
TANNOURINE Covering 12 square kilometers, Tannourine Nature Reserve is situated in a spectacular area where it contains one of the largest and densest cedar forests in Lebanon. The area is rocky and mountainous with sharp slopes and a deep valley where cedars defy gravity and grow on extremely steep slopes. Visitors can discover naturally occurring grottos on their hike as well as rare flowers indigenous to this high altitude terrain, like the mountain tulip or Lebanese prickly thrift. Besides its 70,000 ancient trees, the reserve is known for its bird species and wild animals, such as eagles, owls, robins, hyenas, boars, squirrels, snakes and bats. 09 638630
BEKAA YAMMOUNEH Emperor Adrian declared Yammouneh a scientific nature reserve in 184 A.D. to protect its juniper trees. It was classified a nature reserve in 1998. Located in the northern arid area of Bekaa, Yammouneh is a green haven with ponds and old juniper trees. The reserve is the habitat of more than 92 rare plant species, 365 medicinal plants and 14 varieties of conifers. Local guides have been hiking the newly cleared trails in Yammouneh’s reserve, providing visitors with a glimpse of the
region's history as well as the biodiversity of the reserve itself. Next to the reserve, the Yammouneh Cultural Center has been active in environmental education and awareness. 70 256390
MOUNT LEBANON BENTAEL Located northeast of Byblos, Bentael Nature Reserve is just under two square kilometers, making it one of the smallest nature reserves in Lebanon. The reserve is situated on the flight path of migratory hawks, eagles and other raptors, and is enjoyed by bird enthusiasts. Visitors can access the reserve via one of two entrances: one near the village of Mechehlene and the other in the upper region of Bentael. With a newly equipped kids’ playground as well as an insect museum and fire tools museum, Bentael is a great destination for families. 09 640419
CHNANIIR The Chnaniir Nature Reserve is located in Keserwan on a hill overlooking the bay of Jounieh. Nestled at an altitude of 650m to 850m, the forest peaks in Hriq where one can enjoy a 360-degree panoramic view of the sea and the mountains. Rich in wild pines, oaks and strawberry trees, Chnaniir was declared a nature reserve in 2010 and, ever since, numerous initiatives have taken place to preserve the habitat while encouraging visitors to the area, including the introduction of three hiking trails of varying difficulty. 03 301292/03 544693
JAJ Jaj Cedar Reserve is a unique representation of Lebanon’s mountainous landscape. It is located at an altitude of 1,500m and covers 200ha of land. Around the small cluster of large cedars that remain in the reserve are thousands of cedar seedlings. You can reach the reserve from the Amchit highway by driving 20 minutes straight up to Jaj through Lehfed. The old church in the town square of Jaj has cedar trees growing out of its walls. 09 725600
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AL SHOUF Encompassing the three cedars forests of Maaser Shouf, Barouk and Ain Zhalta/ Bmohray, Al Shouf Cedar Nature Reserve is located on the western slopes of the Mount Lebanon chain and runs from Dahr al Baidar in the north to Niha Mountain near Jezzine in the south. Covering nearly two percent of Lebanese territory, it is the largest nature reserve in Lebanon and is considered as an important area for the conservation of large mammals, such as the wolf and the caracal lynx, and eventually an adapted site for the reintroduction of almost extinct species, including the mountain gazelle and the Nubian ibex. 05 502230
WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY
Marc El Beyrouthy “Vital to the protection and sustainable management of Lebanon’s natural resources, especially its biodiversity, nature reserves account for around 2.7 percent of the country’s surface area and contain around 370 different kinds of birds and 2,000 plant and wild flower varieties, many of which are endemic. We need more reserves to increase this figure to five percent. It is essential for people to visit Lebanon’s reserves as they not only discover the beauty and importance of these areas but also contribute to the income of local communities through various ecotourism activities.” Maya Nehme “Nature reserves are a safe, clean, natural and educational haven for children and the young generation, encouraging them to grow into environmentally responsible individuals who appreciate the value of nature and healthy ecosystems. Reserves provide job opportunities for local communities by employing guides, managers and maintenance staff from the area. There is also a positive knock-on effect for local enterprises, such as small shops, restaurants and lodgings, as many visitors often stay for lunch or spend the night.” lebanontraveler.com
22 FOCUS ON
5
THINGS TO DO IN ANJAR
Revered for its historical sites and traditional way of life, Anjar is a fascinating town set in the heart of the Bekaa Valley. Travel expert Pia Abboud points out just a few of its many highlights.
1. EXPLORE THE LEGENDARY UMAYYAD ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
2. ENJOY LOCAL SPECIALTIES AND REGIONAL PRODUCE
The Ummayad Citadel is one of Anjar’s most celebrated sites. Built under the reign of Caliph Al Walid Ben Abd Al Malek (705-715 A.D.), it was originally considered the summer residence of the Ummayad Khalifa but evolved into a commercial city thanks to its strategic position. Byzantine and Roman architects constructed the city, which features murals characteristic of the Byzantine period.
Known for its warm hospitality, the town boasts a variety of restaurants where you can enjoy a delicious meal. Shams (08 620567) is a popular spot serving traditional Lebanese food with an Armenian twist as well as international dishes. There are also a number of restaurants in the town center and others along the riverbank next to the fresh water source, such as Nabaa Anjar (08 620590).
However, the city only enjoyed a brief existence. In 744 A.D. Caliph Ibrahim, son of Walid, was defeated and the partially destroyed city was abandoned. Today you can visit the Great Palace, the remains of the mosque, the public baths and more. The site (08 370645/71 808417) is open from Monday to Sunday (9 am to 6 pm) and entrance costs 6,000 LBP (4 USD). lebanontraveler.com
Don’t miss the weekly market taking place from 14 June 2019 in the city center. There you’ll be able to pick up homemade products and mouneh items made by local farmers and producers. Contact the Municipality of Anjar for further information (08 620790/1).
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4. TAKE A WALK BY THE SPRINGS AND OLD MILLS
3. ADMIRE THE VIEW OF ANJAR FROM THE TAL EL NABI MOSQUE Just outside Anjar stands the Tal El Nabi Mosque, which is built on top of a small hill overlooking the Bekaa Valley plains, Anjar and its surrounding villages. The view from the mosque is magnificent, particularly during spring and summer when apple and almond trees are in full blossom and endless green fields surrounding the eagleshaped town of Anjar and the nearby wetlands.
The name Anjar derives from the Aramaic expression ain garya (flowing water) due to the abundant water sources in the area. Indeed, this was one of the main reasons the Armenian community settled in this area in the early 40s. The main spring of Anjar flows through the northeastern part of the city, where there is a public space for visitors featuring a large mosaic mural highlighting the key sites of the city and numerous historical events. There is also a small walking trail: Anjar Water Trail. Take a full tour to check out the old watermills dating back to the foundations of the city and climb the newly built stairs to discover the trail that leads to a hidden cave, an organic farm, a reforestation site and a magnificent viewing point over the plains. It is also possible to rent a small pedal boat on the artificial lake created by the spring.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Make the most of your visit to this Bekaa jewel by extending your stay in the area. Hotel Layali El Shams Located just 500m from the Umayyad ruins of Anjar, this property offers 20 fully equipped luxury suites and a swimming pool (08 622600).
5. TAKE A TOUR AND TASTE WINE AT CHATEAU RAYAK In the neighbouring village of Riyak you’ll find a small family-run winery that is worth a mini detour. The owners, Elias and Juliana Maalouf, will welcome you with great enthusiasm and show you around their vineyards, where you will be invited to taste their wine and arak. Book your visit by contacting Elias Maalouf (03 212885).
Ecolodge Taanayel For an authentic experience, head 10km out of the city to Ecolodge Taanayel. Enjoy wholesome food and a host of activities, including hiking, cycling and horseback riding (08 544881). Al Haush A 30-minute drive from Anjar will get you to Al Haush, a unique agro guesthouse featuring 10 rooms, a farm, gardens, a swimming pool and a family-friendly area (03 911110). discoverybeyondborders.com
24 HIDDEN GEMS
Despite its small size, Lebanon boasts diverse landscapes due to its complex geography. Nada Raphael of Tourleb takes us to four beautiful valleys that are worth discovering this season. WADI AL AGHRAB SOUTH LEBANON This is a small valley (wadi in Arabic) with its most famous landmark being the sculptures of Cana. Evidenced by many early historians as the place where Jesus performed his first miracle, it is a religious site visited by all. There are many sculptures on the rocks on the way leading to the small grotto. Some think that one of these carvings represents Jesus and his disciples. The grotto could have at some point been a refuge to those fleeing persecution. There also is another carving, that of a feminine figure, who could have either been a goddess, a gentile whose daughter was cured by Jesus or even the Bride of Cana.
Cana
Numerous restaurants and guesthouses can be found in the coastal city of Tyre, a 20-minute drive away. Stay at the Dar Alma Boutique Hotel or its sister property, Dar Camelia (07 740082). Alternatively, book a room at El Boutique Hotel (07 740960). Besides the delicious seafood restaurants, a sandwich from Mahfouz (07 740131) in the souks is a must.
WADI BAANOUB SOUTH LEBANON On the way to Jezzine the landscape is just as breathtaking. One of Jezzine’s valleys lies below the village of Anan, but it’s very easy to miss since the road is hidden. Known as Wadi Baanoub by the locals, spring promises a multitude of wild flowers and plants that lead you down to the el-Awali river. Despite the walk being a little steep, it is worth the effort. Behind the trees a once-great citadel stands on a rock, eaten away by vegetation. The ramp that gets you to the citadel is also somewhat challenging but manageable. The Belhacim Fort (or El Hosn Citadel) dates back to the Crusaders; the entrance and two towers are still standing. Many legends are told about Wadi Baanoub and El Hosn. One is about a lion who escaped from a circus and sought refuge in the valley. People say that it still haunts the valley and you can hear him roar day and night; a roar that could also be that of the river below. There are several restaurants and places to stay in the area. Blue Jay Valley (78 880088) in Azour and Maison de la Forêt (78 828252) in Bkassine are just a couple of options. lebanontraveler.com
El Hosn Citadel
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WADI JHANNAM NORTH LEBANON Wadi Jhannam or Valley of Hell is a spectacular gorge in a remote area of North Lebanon. Seen from above, the wadi offers a dramatic view because of the harshness and the depth of its slopes. It is excellently preserved and offers a range of biodiversity. This is still a very wild place with dense forests of cedar, juniper, pine, sycamore and hawthorn trees, a large variety of wild flowers and plants, and unique animal species, such as the Persian squirrel and more than 100 species of birds. Nature enthusiasts can walk, hike or even camp here. Enjoy regional food and stay in Bedouin tents at Al Jourd (76 892105), where you're guaranteed an unforgettable experience. Hussein Bedrah Guesthouse (03 817312), Al Lezzabeh (03 069097) and many restaurants on the Assi River or in Hermel, such as Al Bayt al Tourathi (03 931786), serve fantastic Lebanese food. View from Mazraat Mrabbine
WADI AL TAYM BEKAA This wadi owes its name to the Taymour-Allat tribe that moved here many centuries ago. It is a fertile area that lies on the western slope of Mount Hermon. It comprises many villages such as Rachaya al Wadi, thus named to differentiate it from Rachaya al Fokhar and Hasbaya. Rachaya al Wadi is a great destination for a family outing. You can take a walk through the old souk, visit the Independence Citadel and browse the many crafts and produce that are traditional of the area. Hasbaya is famous for the Chehab Palace, the stronghold of this family. Enjoy walks surrounded by beautiful landscapes as you make your way to visit the many Roman temples in the area, including the temples of Kfermeshki (easy trail where you can also see old olive presses) and Ain Horsha (moderate trail with breathtaking scenery). You can easily plan different hikes ranging from five to 25kms (easy to challenging) on the Lebanon Mountain Trail. For lunch or dinner, try Mashhour Restaurant (03 639852) in Rachaya or Al Bohsasa Restaurant (07 553000) in Hasbaya. You can even meet with the locals: Mehdi Fayek in Rachaya (03 963378), Wafa Chmeis (76 590278) in Hasbaya, or Rouba Ayoub (70 778540) in Kfarmeshki.
View from the Roman temple of Ain Horcha
70 484545,
tourleb
lebanontraveler.com
26 INDOORS
BEIRUT’S
BURGEONING LIBRAIRIES In search of a good book to read? Culture enthusiast and blogger Nadine Chemali browses the shelves of libraries in Beirut that are open to the public.
DEKWANEH PUBLIC LIBRARY Founded in 2017 by the Municipality of Dekwaneh, the library contains around 22,000 documents. More than half of these are in English; the remainder are in French and Arabic. In addition to fiction and non-fiction novels, visitors can find material on a large variety of subjects, including art, psychology, philosophy, fiction, history, literature, medicine, science, law and technology. The library provides an area for children. There is also a small conference room for presentations and meetings. Weekdays: 9 am - 1 pm and 3 pm - 7pm; Sat: 9 am - 1 pm
Lebanese National Library
General Wazen St., Dekwaneh, 03 788419
ASSABIL PUBLIC LIBRARIES
CLAC
LEBANESE NATIONAL LIBRARY
Assabil, Friends of Public Libraries Association, is an NGO that was established in 1997 to manage Beirut’s public libraries.
Located in Sin El Fil, CLAC (Centre de Culture et d’Animation Culturelle) was established in partnership with the Ministry of Culture and the international agency of the Francophonie. More than 20,000 documents in Arabic, French, Spanish and other languages covering topics such as history, social sciences, languages, literature, religion, law, health, cooking and art can be found there.
This national treasure was first established in 1921 by Lebanese historian and bibliophile Philippe De Tarazi, who donated around 200,000 documents to the library. Efforts were abandoned to grow the collection when the Lebanese Civil War broke out in 1975. Many documents were destroyed during this period, but others were preserved as they were stored at Beirut Port.
There are currently three within Beirut: Bachoura, the first and largest; Geitawi, located in the Jesuit Public Garden; and Monot, the most recent addition. There are plans to open a further nine branches over the coming years. The three libraries offer cozy reading areas and contain large collections of 45,000 books, magazines and DVDs. You can check their online catalog (library.assabil.org). Storytelling sessions for children, book clubs, gatherings with authors and cultural activities are also organized at the libraries. Tue - Fri: 9 am - 6 pm; Sat: 9 am - 1 pm (Monot), 9 am - 3 pm (Geitawi), 9 am - 5 pm (Bachoura) USJ St., Monot, 01 203026 Jesuit Garden, Rmeil, Geitawi, 01 560728 Isaaf Bldg., Bachoura, 01 667701/70 484626 assabil.com lebanontraveler.com
The space is divided into two libraries: one for children and another for adults. Many cultural events are scheduled throughout the year, including storytelling for kids, school visits and book signings. During the warmer months the library moves outdoors, allowing visitors to read books and enjoy the fresh air. This has been incredibly popular with schoolchildren. Weekdays: 9 am - 7 pm; Sat: 9 am - 1 pm Father Youssef el Hayek St., Sin El Fil, 01 480048, sinelfil.gov.lb
A new site for the library was planned in Sanayeh; and with the help of the EU, restoration work began in 2014. The space was reopened in December 2018. The library consists of a reading hall, conference rooms and event venues to host cultural activities, including talks, lectures, exhibitions and poetry readings. It is said that the current collection includes 300,000 items: books, newspapers, drawings, maps and 70 oil paintings. Weekdays: 8:30 am - 1:30 pm Emile Edde St., Sanayeh, 03 970093/ 01 756321, bnl.gov.lb infinitecurl.com
28 CULINARY HERITAGE
CRUMBLY KAAK
Zeinab Jeambey from the Food Heritage Foundation explores the tradition of kaak. Photo: Joe Sokhn
Whether commemorating a festive, historical or religious event, holidays in Lebanon often have a dessert associated with them. Of the most famous desserts is maamoul: small butter cookies often stuffed with dates, walnuts or pistachios. Yet the most common homemade dessert remains the mini-milk cakes known as kaak bi halib. These cakes, which do not perish quickly, were often taken on pilgrimages and used as caloric, substance foods during wars. Recipes for these simple cakes include the main ingredients of flour, semolina, butter, milk, oil, a leavening agent and flavoring, which can include anise seeds and mahlab (the seed within the stone of a special cherry called prunus mahaleb). Nonetheless, flavoring can vary from village to village and household to household. Some use dried lavender, while others choose dried marjoram, nutmeg, turmeric or nigella seeds. Most cakes are usually formed in special wooden molds with different designs. Though the preparation method is similar for all, these cakes are named according to the event they are commemorating. lebanontraveler.com
KAAK EL EID THE HOLIDAY COOKIE
KAAK EL AABBASS THE AABBASS COOKIE
This is the generic name for homemade milk cakes that are produced in villages all over Lebanon, with preparations differing from one village to the other. It is a common treat during the Easter, Fitr and Adha holidays. Mahlab is often a main ingredient and some households make the cake softer than others. It is best accompanied with coffee, tea or lemonade.
This cake is prepared during Ashoura – a Muslim day of rememberance to commemorate the death of Imam Hussein, the grandson of the prophet Mohammad. The cake takes its name from El Aabbass, the half-brother of Imam Hussein, who was known for helping the poor and vulnerable. The cake is often given away to people attending the Ashoura gatherings.
For homemade kaak el eid contact Lina Saade, Kherbet Qanafar, 70 671399.
For homemade kaak el Aabbass contact Emm Ali in Tyre, 03 649135.
KAAK MBASSBASS MBASSBASS COOKIE
KAAK EL KHAMIS THE THURSDAY COOKIE
Also known as kaak mra’add, this cake is mainly found in North Lebanon and has a distinct crumbly texture, making it more like a biscuit. In fact, as per the locals, the name mbassbass means crumbly in the mouth. Although the kaak was initially the holiday cookie of Akkar, it is now made throughout the year.
This milk cake is made on the Thursday preceding Good Friday. The tradition continues to this day in Aarsal – a predominantly Muslim village – reminding us of the conviviality among neighboring communities of different faiths.
For homemade kaak mbassbass contact Coop Andqet in Andqet, 03 580294.
For homemade kaak el khamis contact Halime el Hujeiri in Aarsal, 03 110802. food-heritage.org foodheritage
foodheritagefoundation
Be Natural, Stay Healthy...
Tr i p o l i - L e b a n o n Mob. +961 76 13 77 01/7 fb/icecreamorchid info@orchidicecream.com
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CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS
THE ART
OF COMMUNICATION:
Calligraphy Regarded as a meticulous practice, we explore the intricate art of Arabic calligraphy.
lebanontraveler.com
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Sabah and Fayrouz, and the much-loved writer and poet Gibran Khalil Gibran. Hawila is an artist who uses Arabic calligraphy to communicate a message using various mediums: the city’s walls, inspiring spaces and art installations. He also uses 3D objects to draw or even etch messages, and while some of his works depict local and regional issues, others are more conceptual. “There's a huge difference between calligraphy and graffiti and people are not aware of that,” says Hawila. “I have seen artists giving calligraphy a graffiti taste to fit the streets, while in my work I try to be as authentic as possible and respect the traditional forms of calligraphy; but I managed to find my own style away from the classic.” He admits that his work brings calligraphy to the street, making it a form of street art and not graffiti. “Graffiti is just another school, while street art is anything on the streets.” Hawila’s abstract approach to a classical art form is intended to be thoughtprovoking. “Abstraction is always used to stimulate the viewer and not to confuse them; so much of my work asks questions.” “Islamic art is an innocent response to the philosophy of the universe,” Lebanese poet, historian and calligrapher Samir El-Sayegh says. The story began with the writing of the Quran, Islam’s central religious text, on paper. It took the most qualified scholars of the Arab world 300 years to transcribe the text in its entirety, which had previously been committed to memory. “If we were to sample the earliest versions of this text, we would find that the Arabs were not only writing it for people to read; they were celebrating existence through form,” El-Sayegh explains. That is why reading the Quran is no simple matter; the letters in their diverse forms are strung together reflecting a universal order. “If we do not learn to see and appreciate the beauty of the design, we will be unable to understand it; this kind of art may be all around us yet we fail to recognize it,” El-Sayegh adds.
For that reason, most westerners and western-educated Arabs have difficulty understanding this art form. Simply put, Islamic art is the art of the ‘how’ and not the ‘what.’ The artist is not separate from the work; she/he is part of it. Yazan Halwani and Ghaleb Hawila are two of Lebanon’s most recognized modern-day artists who have popularized the art of calligraphy. Their eye-catching works can be found in the streets of Beirut, namely in Hamra, Gemmayze and Mar Mikhael. Halwani has spent a significant amount of his time focusing on Arab personalities (alive and deceased). Some of his notable works include murals of the iconic Lebanese singers
Indeed, Hawila is an artist who likes to ask questions and evolve with the world around him. “I know that I’m not satisfied yet and I’m still searching and experimenting. Adaptation is a key for survival for life; the trick as an artist is to know when to adapt and when not to.” His next big project is a solo exhibition supported by the Lebanese Foundation of the National Library. It will be his second solo show in Beirut after a threeyear gap. “The exhibition takes place from 11 July until 17 August 2019 at SV Gallery in Saifi. It's a fusion between two different schools: calligraphy and printing, specifically screen printing. I want to see how far I can take both schools to the extreme, noting that we are dealing with two different time frames," Hawila says. "My work will always be different and fresh to the eye because I’m not influenced by other calligraphers,” he adds. To learn more about calligraphy or to join a private class, contact Ghaleb Hawila (70 701821, g.hawila gh.hawila). lebanontraveler.com
32 THE GREAT ESCAPE
BOUFA EHDEN, NORTH
“As I was hiking, I passed this spectacular lake. The reflection of the mountain, the sky and the vibrant colors of nature was truly incredible." By Joe Nouhra, joe.nouhra lebanontraveler.com
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34 OUTDOOR ACTION
STRESS-FREE SUMMER ACTIVITIES
Even though the weather gets hot and humid this season, there are still many ways to chill out in Lebanon. With the help of athlete and outdoor enthusiast Jad Assi, we put together a list of activities to help you disconnect this summer.
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HIKING Hiking is a fantastic way to explore the country, especially during the summer when you can admire the glorious green mountains and Lebanon’s colorful landscapes. “When hiking it’s important to pack smartly; a lightweight backpack, at least two liters of water, healthy snacks, like nuts and fruits, and even a light sandwich is what I’d suggest,” says Assi. “My favorite hiking locations are the Horsh Ehden Nature Reserve, Bkassine and the Qannoubine Valley.” TIPS A hiking pole is a good idea if you have a knee or ankle weakness, or just pick up a sturdy wooden stick on your way. You can join hikes with Lebanese Explorers (78 833256), Tourleb (70 484545), Vamos Todos (03 917190, vamos-todos.com) or HighKings (70 270178).
YOGA It’s been proven that yoga does wonders for the mind, body and spirit; and if practicing yoga in a studio is beneficial just imagine how much better it is being outdoors. “Yoga connects the physical and the mental,” says Assi. “It helps you engage with your whole being, fixes your posture, strengthens your joints, elongates your spine and even detoxes your body." Some of Jad’s favorite outdoor yoga spots include Beit El Qamar in Deir El Qamar (03 661411) and Tawlet Ammiq in Ammiq (03 004481). Assi says: “Nothing comes close to the beautiful and serene Ammiq.” TIPS Depending on your goal, whether its developing strength or improving flexibility, there’s a type of yoga that will suit you. If you’re not sure where to begin, contact Jad who’ll put you on the right track.
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CAMPING
MEDITATION
From lush mountains to hidden valleys, Lebanon is full of inspiring places to camp under the stars; and in the absence of clouds during this time of year, the night skies are truly mesmerizing.
Although meditation and yoga are often thought to be the same thing, they are two distinct practices.
“Camping requires much more equipment than hiking, so make sure you have around six liters of water, camping gear, wood for a fire and cooking utensils,” says Assi. “In terms of campsites, I’m a fan of Cedars Ground Campsite (76 634631) in Shouf and Heaven Ecoland (71 153141) on the Damour River.” TIPS You can go camping with little to no hiking as some campsites are accessible by car. If you choose to hike before and/or after you camp make sure you pack extra supplies, especially water.
“Yoga and meditation are two very different practices. Meditation helps you focus on yourself in the moment, and keeps you grounded,” Jad muses. “It nurtures compassion, empathy, and gratitude, releases you from any dark thoughts and teaches you to accept yourself.” TIPS There are many ways to meditate; the most common of all being mindful breathing, which is a very relaxing practice. Jad recommends downloading a mobile application, like Calm, to get started. If you prefer learning in the company of a professional, you can always register for some guided breathing exercises with Jad.
If you’re looking to join a group camping experience (or a hike), you can contact Lebanese Explorers (78 833256) or Lebanese Wanderers (71 662862).
BACKPACKING Although you can go backpacking all year round, it is easier in the summer as the weather is a lot more predictable and you can wear lighter clothing. Assi says: “The most important thing to keep in mind when backpacking is having enough food and keeping yourself hydrated. You can never pack enough water.” TIPS The best place to start backpacking is along the Lebanese Mountain Trail. Contact the Lebanon Mountain Trail Association (LMTA) to learn more about the trails. You can also purchase maps from their offices (Ghaleb Center, Sacré Coeur Hospital St., Baabda, 05 955302, lebanontrail.org).
78 833256,
trainwithjad lebanontraveler.com
36 DESIGN IN LEBANON
DESIGNERS’ CORNER Lebanon's design community is flourishing. We profile three designers from the world of furniture, fashion and jewelry who are making their mark.
DO ANY OF THE DESIGNS HAVE LOCAL INFLUENCES? Oriental culture is our culture; it’s what we grew up with. How we integrate it in our work might seem confusing, but it is very clear to us. Some would argue that what we do does not look oriental. We believe that it takes more than a look to achieve the exceptionally beautiful idea that is oriental.
DAVID NICOLAS David Raffoul and Nicolas Moussallem, the duo behind the David/Nicolas design house, established their brand in 2011. Their innovative approach, together with their unique way of blending retro, contemporary and futuristic elements, translates into a wide range of projects, from furniture design to high-end bespoke interiors. HOW DID THE BRAND START? We first became friends and started helping each other out for our studies. I used to take David’s drawings during drawing classes and just scan and retrace them! We knew we were going to end up opening our own practice and we were already collaborating on our final project. We believe our friendship led us to take that chance and support each other. WHAT IS AN ESSENTIAL MARKER OF A DAVID/NICOLAS PRODUCT? Whether it is an object or a space, we always have the same approach; we like to use many different materials in what we do. Mixing different materials creates junctions and space to innovate. What matters most is the energy the pieces or spaces generate and perhaps that is the one common thing in our work. lebanontraveler.com
It is a feeling, an energy we communicate in our work; it is not limited to pure aesthetics - that would be too dull. We are still learning a lot from our culture, learning how we fit in it in our own way and we believe that if someone follows our work closely they can definitely understand what we are trying to say.
We are still learning a lot from our culture
TELL US ABOUT THE "CONSTELLATION" SERIES. The "Constellation" series finds inspiration in the new life of a star and the explosion phenomenon. These pieces revolve around the relativity of perception and how such a phenomenon can be interpreted into tangible matter. Low tables rendered in travertine feature clean lines and undisturbed surfaces that are understood to represent the new beginnings of a celestial body. WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON NEXT? We are part of the "Life in Vogue" exhibition in which we are reimagining
the office of the editor-in-chief Emanuele Farneti. In Beirut we are currently working on the first vintage watch store owned by the official dealers of Rolex in Lebanon. The project should be ready in June. davidandnicolas.com
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designs to create long-lasting garments that are functional, trendy and a little rock ’n’ roll.
JESSICA K Jessica Khoueiri-Achkar, the woman behind Jessica K, has believed in the empowering role fashion takes on from the moment she stepped into the fashion world. Having created her brand in 2010, Khoueiri-Achkar has focused on crafting confident, feminine and refined silhouettes with the modern woman in mind. TELL US ABOUT THE JESSICA K BRAND. I’m always creating something new, something exciting. I’m determined to inject a sense of refinement and urban chic into every single piece I create. Mixing masculine with feminine, leather with lace, and gold with sportychic styling, Jessica K is constantly reinterpreting fashion paradoxes to create easy-to-wear yet edgy collections with sharp day-to-night outfits. TELL US ABOUT THE "LITTLE BLUFFERS" LINE. It’s inspired by the mischievous and fun-loving nature of my two children, Peter and Milana. "Little Bluffers" is a fashion label for little ones with a bold and playful attitude, catering to modern and urban kids under eight years old. We’re using quality materials and fun
YOU ALSO HAVE A JEWELRY LINE. HOW IMPORTANT ARE ACCESSORIES FOR CREATING THE PERFECT LOOK? Accessories are important details that complete a look and we have a wide range of accessories from casual to evening.
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earrings, necklaces and waist-cinching belts, are timeless hints to the era’s high-society madam who’s high on glam but also in tune with her inner diva. jessica-k.com jessicakofficial jessicakclothing
Accessories are important details that complete a look
WHAT CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR NEXT SEASON’S DESIGNS? The Jessica K fall/winter 2019-2020 collection transports us to the warmer weather of the Golden State, with a mix of Beverly Hills 70s chic and Sunset Boulevard palm-tree sleek, the inspiration for this season’s original print. You’ll find nothing but strong, powerful, sensual women on a mission, dressed in everything from figure-hugging silhouettes to more masculine-tailored cuts in shiny materials or earth tones which are divine. Bringing my signature modern-day twists to nostalgia-worthy playsuits, shoulderenhancing jackets and calf-length skirts, Jessica K will showcase pieces where bright yellows and green flirt with browns and blues, silky velvets and vinyl leather, wooly checks with color-block crepes. The accessories, in the form of statement lebanontraveler.com
38 DESIGN IN LEBANON
SELIM MOUZANNAR Selim Mouzannar’s eye-catching jewelry blends the opulence of the Ottoman Empire with modern-day Beirut. With a clear focus on creating timeless pieces, Mouzannar opened his first workshop in 1993 in Achrafieh, where he carried on his family’s legacy as jewelers. WHAT MEMORIES DO YOU HAVE OF YOUR FATHER’S WORKSHOP IN BEIRUT’S HISTORICAL JEWELRY SOUKS? As a boy in Beirut, I used to roam the incense-filled halls of the souk where there were hundreds of jewelry workshops; my father’s and grandfather’s were among them. During the afternoons helping my father, I would walk past the window displays jammed with jewels crafted in the Falamenk-Ottoman style. Our region was heavily influenced by the Ottoman Empire; it is something that you never forget. I was familiar with different jewelry craftsmanship from a young age. HOW HAS THIS INFLUENCED YOUR OWN DESIGNS? I’ve always been attracted to the traditional houses of Beirut and architecture is a part of my heritage. I live in my parents’ old house, which lebanontraveler.com
I have remodeled. Despite being full of modern comforts, I respected the style of traditional Beirut homes when I renovated.
I’m working on new statement pieces for the “Fish For Love” collection as well as iconic ones, like ”Beirut” and “Istanbul.”
TELL US ABOUT YOUR ACTIVISM FOR NON-VIOLENCE AND THE PURPOSE OF THE “AMAL” NECKLACE. I experienced war at an early age and my way to fight against it is to be an epicurean and an irrepressible optimist.
selimmouzannar.com
I called the necklace “Amal” as a message of hope for a united and reconciled mankind, in a world where nature will have reasserted itself. It is made with Colombian emeralds of various sizes and shades.
Nature is always at the center of my life
WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO CREATE THE “FISH FOR LOVE” COLLECTION? The Mediterranean is for me an eternal inspiration, the place where I enjoy resting and recharging. This season I dived into the intense blue with sparkling multicolored fish symbolizing life and love. The use of enamel gives me lots of ideas to create new patterns of fish scales on rose gold and colorful additions with stones. WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON NEXT? Nature is always at the center of my life. My latest collection is a tribute to sea flowers - their color, power and poetry.
40 ICONIC PLACES
PICTURE-PERFECT
PALACES
Beyond their incomparable beauty, these four palaces have incredible stories to tell. Author Désirée Sadek takes us on a tour.
YVONNE SURSOCK BEIRUT Commanding the attention of all who pass by, Villa Yvonne Sursock is nothing short of a masterpiece. The villa occupies a prime position on a street lined with beautiful homes built by the Sursock family. Ornate marble columns, walls decorated with finely sculpted stucco, towering ceilings and enormous 19th century hand-woven carpets are just a few of its many iconic features. Stairs, arcades and fountains intertwine gracefully in the midst of an 8,000sqm garden full of giant trees, which feels more like the Italian countryside than Beirut.
Photos: Guillaume de Laubier
MOUKHTARA SHOUF, MOUNT LEBANON Meaning “The Chosen One,” Moukhtara was built by the Druze Sheikh Ali Joumblatt on the ruins of an ancient Frankish castle. Located in the heart of the Shouf region 825m above sea level, Moukhtara has remained the stronghold of the Joumblatt family. Although Moukhtara was destroyed in 1825 during struggles between the Druze sheikhs and Emir Bachir Shihab II, Florentine artists rebuilt the residence in the 19th century adding Italian design elements to soften the character of the building. Today the palace is the home of Walid Joumblatt and his wife, Noura. Inside, the huge library houses an incredible collection of books, weapons and insignia from the Second World War. Wooden furniture with mother of pearl inlay adorns the dining room, while a leather armchair and designer furniture decorate the living room. lebanontraveler.com
42 ICONIC PLACES
RESIDENCE KARAMI TRIPOLI, NORTH LEBANON Lebanese politician and religious leader Abdul Hamid Karami used to deliver speeches from the oval balcony of this exquisite palace in the early 20s, where he lived with his family. From the front door to the stained-glass windows, the accuracy of proportions and masterful harmony of colors add to the beauty of this residence. Originally the palace had just function and dining rooms on its first floor and bedrooms on its second, but refurbishment has meant that each floor is independent. In 1999, Michel Tarazi restored the magnificent woodwork created by Gebran Tarazi, bringing the palace back to its former glory.
RESIDENCE ACHKAR AND CHARRIERE BYBLOS, MOUNT LEBANON A celebration of the past, this spectacular 18th century palace has been restored without any renovation work; the paintings, ceilings and floors are all original. On the ground floor are the common areas, the kitchen, laundry room and bedrooms of the housekeeping staff. The first floor is made up of reception rooms and master bedrooms. There are also hidden apartments formerly reserved for women. As the house was designed in harmony with the surrounding environment, it exudes a sense of peace and serenity. Each room feels unique, even more so at different times during the day. The bathroom contains a tub from Damascus, while the vases, cut from a single block of stone, come from the souk in Istanbul. lebanontraveler.com
Discover more of Lebanon’s incredible heritage homes, villas and palaces in Désirée Sadek’s book “33 Sublimes Maisons Libanaises.” Available at bookshops across Lebanon and online for 150,000 LBP (100 USD).
44 REGION THROUGH AN ARTIST’S EYES
ROGER
MOUKARZEL LEBANON THROUGH A LENS Internationally acclaimed Lebanese photographer Roger Moukarzel still remembers his humble beginnings in the mountain village of Beit Chabeb, where summers were full of adventure.
“During the summer, I used to hang out with my old friend Abou George. He was a shepherd in the village,” Moukarzel says. “I used to go out at six o’clock in the morning with the sheep and come back in the afternoon. I still remember the times I would take my shower in the evening and be so dirty I would see the dark water washing down the drain.” Indeed, Moukarzel spent his childhood playing with friends and cousins in the beautiful green fields of Beit Chabeb, Mount Lebanon, surrounded by nature. Born in 1962, Moukarzel’s talent with a camera was evident from an early age, when he took an interest in war photography. “Because I was born into a family of journalists, I used to hang out with journalists at the newspaper office,” he recalls. “When the war erupted in Lebanon, I used to take my brother’s camera – at a very early stage – and shoot some black and white images in the village.” By the age of 15 Moukarzel was selling his photographs to Sygma and Reuters, Beit Chabeb. Photos: Roger Moukarzel
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embarking on a decade-long career as a professional war photographer documenting the conflict that had engulfed his homeland. As time moved on he began to question his choice, ultimately leading him away from war coverage into fashion and art photography instead. “I was aware that what we used to do as war photographers was not translated accurately,” he says. “A big part of the news was fake news because, at some level, they would translate whatever photos I had taken in a different way. I was putting my life in danger to show the reality and that was not
45
what they were after, so I decided to quit,” he adds. “I didn’t know that I would become a fashion photographer in Paris. I continued down that road because I felt that I could express myself in a different way.”
bad in Lebanon. Being on the street and feeling nervous about lots of things – like noises – makes you react and pushes your mind to the edge. This to me is the mother of creativity.”
Despite his international outlook, Moukarzel still draws a great deal of inspiration from Lebanon and his deep personal connection to it and its people.
Interaction with people on the street inspires me
“I think the variety of colors, contradictions, landscapes and people have inspired me a lot,” he says. “I cannot live or create in a sterile place. Interaction with people on the street inspires me, as does the good and
He admits that there is a lot of positivity and just as much negativity; but Lebanon continues to win the hearts of people, especially through its food. “Lebanese cuisine is among the best in the world. When you see how the Lebanese sit around a table eating and drinking arak you understand them,” he adds. minimeproduction.com rogermoukarzel rogermoukarzelofficialpage
lebanontraveler.com
46 RELIGIOUS TOURISM
CAPTIVATING CATHEDRALS Religious anthropologist and researcher Nour Farra-Haddad takes us on a tour around Saint Nicolas’s Greek Catholic Episcopate Cathedral in Saida and Saint Stephen’s Cathedral in Batroun. SAINT NICOLAS’S SAIDA, SOUTH LEBANON Since the 14th century B.C. this Lebanese coastal city has been a commercial center, with strong trade links to Egypt. Saida was famed for its glass-making traditions, which were considered among the best in the world. The city also became known for its shipbuilding.
with its Melkite bishops in communion with Rome. Initially it was united with the archeparchy of Tyre; but the two locations were separated in the mid18th century. Saida remained an eparchy until Pope Paul VI elevated it to an archeparchy in 1964.
Like other Phoenician cities, Saida suffered numerous conquests. After the Arab conquest (636 A.D.) Saida remained a small flourishing city. In the Crusader period (1110-1291 A.D.) it became a chief town and a barony of the kingdom of Jerusalem. The Mamluks then the Ottomans occupied Saida at the start of the 16th century. It regained its status in the 17th century during the rule of Emir Fakhr-al-Din II (1572-1635), who declared Saida his commercial capital in 1594.
The cathedral is one element of a religious complex constituting the seat of the archeparchy. This cathedral lies on the boundary of ancient Saida, near the Greek Orthodox archbishopric. The plot of land was bought in 1890 and the cathedral was inaugurated in 1896. Featuring three altars hidden by a marble iconostasis, the cathedral is decorated with frescoes (scenes from the Old and New Testaments). Most of the icons in the cathedral date back to the mid-20th century and were painted by the Greek Orthodox Sister Pelagie Tebechrani from the monastery of Our lady of the Presentation in Karm El Zeitoun, Beirut. The mosaic in front of the main altar is an artwork from the 6th century Byzantine
At the edge of the old souks of Saida lies the Greek Catholic Cathedral of Saint Nicolas (Mar Nkoula), also known as the Melkite Greek Catholic Archeparchy of Saida. The eparchy began in 1683, lebanontraveler.com
period. This mosaic was brought from the Byzantine site in Anane, a village located 20km from Saida on the way to Jezzine. The mosaic portrays mainly geometric, animal and floral motifs as well as some Greek inscriptions. What to do in the area One of the most renowned sites in Saida is the Sea Castle, a small crusader fort built in the 13th century. You can also pass by the port of Saida to visit Khan El Frenj, the caravanserai of the French built by Fakhr-al-Din II in the early 17th century. Stroll through the old souks to visit: historical mosques, such as Kikhia Mosque or Bab Al-Saray Mosque; hammams, like Hammam Al Ward; Saida’s Soap Museum (foundationaudi.org); OLA center; and Debbaneh Palace (museumsaida.org). You can easily spend half a day in the old souks. Enjoy street food in the souks or a meal at Rest House Saida (07 722469), Zawat (70 350050) or Tawlet Saida (07 733899).
48 RELIGIOUS TOURISM
SAINT STEPHEN’S BATROUN, NORTH LEBANON Batroun is a coastal city in North Lebanon, one of the oldest Canaanite-Phoenician cities in Lebanon. Its name most likely derives from Batruna, which is mentioned in the 1st century B.C. Tal el-Amarna tablets of Egypt. Batroun boasts many historical monuments and ruins, including a Phoenician Wall, in addition to Roman Catholic and Greek Orthodox churches. Overlooking the fishing port, the Maronite Cathedral of Saint Stephen (Mar Estephan) was built at the start of the 20th century on top of what is believed to have been a small Crusader church. The Italian architect Giuseppe Maggiore designed and supervised the construction of the cathedral, which features Byzantine and Roman elements in addition to gothic art influences. Built from Batroun sandstone, the cathedral consists of a main nave, two wards facing east and west and three bell towers. The huge marble columns inside the church come from the Astarte temple of Deir El Qalaa in Beit Mery. Furthermore, there are three altars,
the principal of which (in the center) has a painting of Saint Stephen by the Italian painter Giosti above it.
HOLY LEBANON
What to do in the area Within walking distance of Mar Stephen you can explore the Greek Orthodox Church of Saint George and the chapel of Our Lady of the Sea (Saydet El Bahr) facing the Phoenician Wall. Wander around the old souks and stop for lemonade at Hilmi (06 740068) or Tony Daou (06 741564).
Holy Lebanon is a travel e-guide promoting religious-based tourism and supporting the sustainable development of local communities across the country.
Apart from its historic sites, Batroun is a city recognized for its clean beaches. You’ll find a large number of resorts dotted along the coast (refer to page 50). Don’t leave without having a memorable lunch at: Chez Maguy (03 439147), a delightful seaside restaurant; Colonel Beer Brewery (06 743543), a lively microbrewery affording impressive views; or Batrouniyat (06 744510), where you’ll be served traditional Lebanese food and specialitiees from the surrounding villages.
LEBANON’S FIRST RELIGIOUS TOURISM APP
Introducing Lebanon as an attractive destination full of interesting sites to discover, the guide lists thousands of religious attractions, rituals and events, as well as names and details of service providers. Embrace Lebanon’s religious diversity and take advantage of this practical and comprehensive tool by downloading the free application on the AppStore or Googleplay.
Photos: Nour Farra-Haddad
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YOUR SUMMER STARTS HERE.
TURN THE PAGE TO DISCOVER
BEACHES • ROOFTOPS • ESCAPES White Beach. Photo: Joe Sokhn
50 SUMMER GUIDE
BEAUTY &
THE BEACH Swimsuits and sunglasses at the ready; it’s beach season! And who better to guide us through the seemingly endless list of fabulous resorts than our friends at Amber Consulting. NEW PLACES TO TRY
Set to open in summer 2019, Nanaya (06 543970/1) is a new beach resort located next to Nabu Museum on the sandy beach of El Heri, North Lebanon. The resort boasts a chic and trendy ambience, multiple swimming pools, a kids’ area and a restaurant. The former Bamboo Bay in Jiyeh has been remodeled and renamed Bahamas (07 995042). The resort is divided into two main sections: a family area with a water park and an over-18s section offering jacuzzis and a large pool.
BEIRUT OLDIES Beirut is known for having some of the oldest beach clubs in the country. One of these classic spots is Sporting Club (01 742482), which is a favorite among Beirutis thanks to its natural rocky deck and famous seafood restaurant, Feluka. Long Beach (01 742496) lies adjacent to Sporting, while the Saint-Georges Yacht Club & Marina (03 958379) is located at the other end of the seafront promenade, in Ain el Mreisseh. lebanontraveler.com
UPSCALE RESORTS
Situated in Halat, Kalani (76 504050) is a serene beach resort known for its infinity pool, fancy restaurant and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea. With its minimalist decor, Orchid Beach is the ultimate adults-only summer destination.Beachgoers can head to Orchid’s two resorts in Jiyeh (03 040420) and Batroun (71 949404). Mandaloun Beach Club (03 405060) guarantees its guests a luxury place to swim, relax and enjoy delicious Mediterranean seafood.
CITY LUXURY
Madame Bleu (01 366222) is Beirut’s high-end beach club, where you’ll find a pool, comfortable beds and plenty of wellheeled guests. Riviera Beach Lounge (03 322260) is another sophisticated spot offering a fancy beach experience: a VIP area, a fish restaurant (Au Gros Sel) and a sunset bar.
TIME TO RELAX Head to Kfarabida to bathe in some of Lebanon’s clearest waters. The beach is quite small, but it’s free. You can even discover the underwater caves, where you might be lucky enough to spot a sea turtle. Located on Batroun’s beautiful coast, Colonel Reef (03 743543) is the beach section of Colonel Beer Microbrewery, a unique place in Lebanon. After you go for a dip in the sea and try one of the fun water activities, hang out at the beach bar with a bottle of their crafted beer. Serving as a popular pebble bar, Martin Pecheur (76 369361) is another laidback spot in Batroun. Whether you’re alone or with a group of friends, you’re bound to fall for Martin Pecheur’s charm and epic sunsets. Cloud 59 (03 517996), set on Tyre’s sandy shore, provides a perfect setting for a calm day at the beach. Take a dip in the warm waters or simply lie back on the sun loungers with a good book to read. Tasty seafood and mezze are also available.
More online lebanontraveler.com
Anfeh. Photo: Joe Sokhn
PARTY BY DAY Ranked as one of the best beach bars in the world, Pierre & Friends (03 352930) in Batroun continues to be a popular spot for sun worshippers. Apart from the funky atmosphere, one of the reasons why it has succeeded over the years is thanks to the free-admission policy. Ô-Glacée (06 741841) is indisputably the coolest beach bar in Batroun due to its ice-cold natural pool and awesome daytime parties. June (70 553399) is an over-21s beach “house” located on a little hill in Amchit. There are often performances by Lebanese artists and bands. Nomad (71 000677) opened last year in Byblos. Celebrating nature and the raw beach experience, the resort features bungalows and a wooden-deck beach bar where you’ll find the DJ spinning great tunes and the crowd dancing until sunrise. Damour’s Iris Beach (71 533318) is the place to be seen. Known for its infinity pool and panoramic sea view, this place
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Lazy B
Iris Beach
Kfarabida. Photo: Joe Sokhn
Colonel Reef
makes partying under the sun a dream come true.
FOOD BY THE SEA Dive into the crystal-clear water at Joining (03 517492) and contemplate the beauty of Batroun. You’ll be impressed by Joining’s excellent seafood menu and laid-back atmosphere. A cluster of restaurants can be found at Anfeh’s Tahet El Rih, such as Chez Fouad (70 830117), 3al Ba7er (70 554417), Salim Sur Mer (03 330472), Paralia Bar (78 955811), and Istirahet el Khal (03 306585).
FAMILY-FRIENDLY SPOTS
Eddésands Hotel & Wellness Resort (09 546666) in Byblos has remained a family favorite since the very beginning. The resort features a long sandy beach, countless swimming pools and a fun play area for children as well as many dining options.
Lazy B (70 950010) is a relaxing beach club that never fails to bring out a relaxed mood in its guests. The resort’s three swimming pools, natural creeks, restaurants and children’s playground make it a perfect getaway for families. Beirut’s iconic five-star resort Summerland Bay Beach Resort (01 858028) is offering a tailored summer camp this year, and there will be plenty of fun on the program! La Siesta (05 815555) is the ideal beach resort for families. Situated in Khalde, the resort includes fully-equipped hotel rooms, a sandy beach, a kids’ area with inflatable games, numerous food outlets and a beach bar. Damour Beach Resort (76 883737) is another family resort that features an infinity pool, private areas with huts and a kids’ area located close to the beach seating, ensuring children can be supervised as they play. amber-consulting.com
amber.consulting
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52 SUMMER GUIDE
HIGH ON SUMMER
Escape the summer heat in Beirut by heading to the roof, where you can enjoy the gentle breeze and cool down with a drink or two!
Spine
La Mezcaleria Rooftop
C LOUNGE
CHERRY ON THE ROOFTOP
COOP D’ETAT
With an enviable position on top of the Bayview Hotel in Ain el Mreisseh, C Lounge boasts a lounge area, a balcony bar and a panoramic view of Beirut’s famous seafront promenade, the Corniche. Sip on your favorite cocktails and take your pick from a wide selection of bites as you watch the world go by.
Kick back and enjoy sumptuous drinks and bites at Cherry on the Rooftop. Located on the sixth floor of Beirut’s artsy Le Gray hotel, this luxurious bar frequently hosts musicians and bands.
If you feel like keeping things relaxed then Coop D’Etat is perfect for you. Known for its casual ambience and easy-going crowd, this rooftop is an exciting spot where you can wind down while listening to jazz and 80s classics.
Bayview Hotel, Ain el Mreisseh, 03 331003
Enjoy the view from the 8th floor in the heart of Downtown Beirut at Clap. This sophisticated fine-dining restaurant serves delectable Japanese cuisine and now offers guests an outdoor terrace with a central bar, which is simply perfect for those summer evenings.
DIRTY LAUNDRY
Annahar Bldg., Downtown, 70 633888
Armenia St., Mar Mikhael, 81 331333
CAPITOLE Promising guests an extensive selection of food and cocktails as well as a breathtaking view of Downtown Beirut, Capitole is an upscale place to be seen. Just make sure you’re dressed for the occasion. Riad El Solh Sq., Downtown, 70 302402 lebanontraveler.com
Le Gray Beirut, Martyrs’ Sq., 01 962888
CLAP TERRACE NEW!
Pasteur St., Gemmayze, 71 134173
Located at the end of Mar Mikhael, this hip urban kitchen and bar redefines the lounge experience. Its name is also fitting; with such a cozy atmosphere and delicious drinks you just might find yourself airing your dirty laundry!
More online lebanontraveler.com
FABRK
53
LA MEZCALERIA ROOFTOP NEW! SKYBAR
Fabrk is an urban lounge located in the Get grooving to La Mezcaleria’s Orientalheart of Mar Mikhael. Lose yourself to the Latino music and enjoy their delicious beat of your favorite tunes while sipping Mexican cuisine and cocktails as you admire on a delicious sunset cocktail and playing a the spectacular view of downtown from this round of pool. trendy spot in Saifi. Armenia St., Mar Mikhael, 71 448800 Miele Building, Saifi, 70 001118
Known for its awesome music and out-of-this-world design, SKYBAR has consistently been ranked one of the best bars in the world. There is no place more glamorous.
IRIS
PARRILLA SUMMER
THE ROOF
Boasting a stylish interior, phenomenal sea view and tantalizing Argentinian menu, La Parrilla’s summer edition at the Warwick Palm Beach Hotel is a must this season.
If you’re a fan of high altitudes look no further than The Roof at the Four Seasons Hotel Beirut. Perched on the 26th floor, this elegant bar and restaurant will not disappoint you with its service, drinks menu, live bands and spectacular sunset.
Savor the taste of artistic cocktails and international dishes as you look over the Mediterranean Sea at Iris, a venue that guarantees a fun night out. Don’t miss the international bands and renowned DJs that regularly perform at this Beirut hot spot. Beirut New Waterfront, Seaside Arena, 03 090936
Warwick Palm Beach Hotel, Ain El Mreisseh, 03 919119
JACKIE ON THE ROOF
STAIRWAY
Located on the port side of Saifi, this urban lounge promises chilled-out vibes, exquisite bites and great music – perfect for a fun night out with friends or an intimate date. Marseillant St., Saifi, 03 315324
Beirut Waterfront, Downtown, 03 939191
Four Seasons Hotel Beirut, Wafic Sinno Ave., 01 761000
Enjoy the lively neighborhood of Mar Mikhael at Stairway, a laid-back spot situated on the roof of a traditional Lebanese house. It’s the perfect choice for casual drinks after work. Armenia St., Mar Mikhael, 76 777091
JUST OUTSIDE BEIRUT B BY ELEFTERIADES Located on the rooftop of Aishti by the Sea, this is the place for those who value luxury. From high-end gourmet food to exquisite music of all genres, you are certain to rub shoulders with a sophisticated crowd. Aïshti By The Sea Bldg., Antelias, 81 290029 CAPRICE Get a few of your friends together and head to Caprice for a night to remember. Don’t miss their famous “Bazaar” nights every Friday.
Iris
Nahr El Mot, Seaside Rd., Dora, 70 220223 DEECE It’s easy to unwind at Deece as you enjoy beautiful views of the sea. This rooftop in Dbayeh is both relaxed and welcoming. Cap 41 Bldg., Dbayeh, 70 109010 SPINE Located a short 15-minute drive from the center of Beirut, Spine is an eccentric rooftop known for its well-heeled crowd, dynamic experience, fusion menu and illusive floating lights.
C Lounge
G1 (Rodeo Drive) Bldg., Naccache Seaside, 03 331337
lebanontraveler.com
54 SUMMER GUIDE
ICONS OF
LEBANESE CUISINE AL HALABI | TIMELESS Consistently serving premium Lebanese cuisine since 1973, Al Halabi is renowned for its excellent service and authentic dishes. What’s special? Warak anab (stuffed vine leaves) and muhammara
AL AJAMI | TRADITIONAL Established in 1920, Al Ajami is known for its tantalizing menu that celebrates the exquisite flavors of the Orient.
Rahbani Brothers St., Antelias, 04 523555 alhalabirest
Kfaryassin, Jounieh, 09 853753 Minet El-Hosn, Downtown Beirut, 01 989989 alsultanbrahim.com alsultanbrahim
Rafic Hariri Ave., Ramlet El Bayda, Beirut, 01 802260 alajami.restaurants.1
BURJ AL HAMAM | SUPER SERVICE A variety of traditional and new experiences in Lebanese cuisine are what you’ll find at Burj Al Hamam, not to mention impeccable service to match.
Hidden away in one of the most stunning locations in Ehden, North Lebanon, Al Ferdaws continues to draw in a crowd from far and wide who come for the tasty food and stay for the refreshing mountain air. What’s special? Fattoush Nabeh Mar Sarkis, Ehden, 06 560444/ 70 060701 al-ferdaws
lebanontraveler.com
What started as a simple family-run fish restaurant on the coast has grown to become one of the most famous names on the Lebanese food scene. What’s special? Hummus
What’s special? Kibbeh arnabiyeh (Lebanese meat balls in a tahini sauce)
AL FERDAWS | HAVEN
AL SULTAN BRAHIM | STYLISH
What’s special? The fillet Burj Al Hamam and filet ras asfour (small fried cubes of beef or chicken) Antelias, 04 405325 Broumana, 04 960058/03 325600 burjalhamam.co burjalhamamleb
More online lebanontraveler.com
55
Taste & Flavors, the ultimate food authority, shares its list of the country’s iconic Lebanese restaurants that were honored at HORECA Lebanon, with the support of the Syndicate of Owners of Restaurants, Cafés, Night-Clubs & Pastries.
CASINO MHANNA | OLDEST A name synonymous with quality, Casino Mhanna is known for its fresh dishes and generous portions. What’s special? Kebbeh Zehlewiyeh (a variation of Lebanese meat balls typical of Zahle) and raw meats Zahle, 08 800364, Antelias, 04 403636
LE PHENICIEN | INNOVATIVE Combining fine dining with a cozy ambience, Le Phenicien has maintained its reputation as one of the leading seafood restaurants in Lebanon.
CASINO ARABI | RIVER VIEW Situated on the banks of the Berdaouni River, Casino Arabi is one of Zahle’s mostloved restaurants.
What’s special? Fish kibbeh (fish balls)
What’s special? Habra naye (raw lean meat)
Tyre, 07 740564 Horch Tabet, 01 499177 lephenicienlb
Zahle, 08 821214/08 800144 casinoarabizahle
MOUNIR | BEST GARDEN Founded by Mounir Fadel in 1970, Mounir is set in the midst of a pine and oak forest. The restaurant is a popular choice during the summer due to its magnificent terrace. What’s special? Kharouf mehshe (leg of lamb and oriental rice served with a special sauce and topped with toasted nuts)
KASR FAKHREDDINE | LAVISH The palace of Fakhreddine in Broumana serves first-class Lebanese cuisine, from Lebanese mezze to grilled meats and fresh saj bread. What’s special? Kibbeh sajiyeh (flattened meat balls that are grilled) Broumana, 04 961387 kasrfakhreddine
Broumana, 04 873900 mounirs.com mounirrestaurantlb
SHATER HASSAN | NORTHERN GEM Serving authentic Lebanese food, this finedining establishment in Tripoli promises a great atmosphere and a delicious menu. What’s special? Grilled fish fillet Rasmasqua, Tripoli Highway, 06 410450 shaterhassanplc tasteandflavors.com
lebanontraveler.com
56 ADVERTORIAL
AL FALAMANKI GOES EVEN GREENER! Al Falamanki, Beirut’s much-loved restaurant chain, chose to mark its 10th anniversary by giving back to the community and focusing its efforts on minimizing plastic waste. After partnering with Recycle Lebanon to learn about best practices and how to get started, the team dived into action. Cutting back on plastic in the restaurants was the first step and, almost immediately, the difference was apparent; it managed to shift 80 percent of its beverages into glass cups. Four days of intensive training was attended by Al Falamanki’s 80 members of staff, which engaged and empowered everyone. The team was encouraged to sort waste for recycling, even in their own homes. A total of 12 sorting bins were installed at Al Falamanki’s Sodeco and Raouche branches, which are being filled with plastic cups and bottles daily. Shisha tips are also being collected. Incredibly, one ton of plastic waste was collected during the first bulk pick-up and sent to local recycling facilities. Thanks to Al Falamanki’s and Recycle Lebanon’s dedicated teams, coordination and monitoring of the recycling is taking place continuously and there are even plans to take bigger steps in the future. Further reinforcing its commitment to green issues, for a limited period Al Falamanki customers will be given a bag of pine seeds with instructions on how to plant them. Indeed, the terraces and gardens at the Sodeco and Raouche branches are tended to with such care that this gesture couldn’t be more fitting. alfalamanki.com
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58 LEBANON IN PICTURES
AN INSTAGRAM JOURNEY Lebanon is bursting with color! Instagram sensation Rami Rizk shows us just how much.
Afqa
Douma
Baalbeck
Beirut
Hermel
Jezzine
rami_rizk89 Check out @lebanontraveler on Instagram for other pictures we love and stay tuned for our next photo journey! lebanontraveler.com
60 ADVERTORIAL
DESIGN
IS KEY
Set in the heart of the capital’s new corporate district near the National Museum of Beirut and the fashionable neighborhoods of Achrafieh and Badaro, The Key Aparthotel is a relaxing urban retreat where artistic elements meet modern comforts. Designed by Galal Mahmoud Architects, the property boasts elegant and subtle features enhanced by a neutral color scheme incorporating shades of white, grey and taupe. Given that design plays a central role at The Key it comes as no surprise that the hotel is full of “Instagram moments,” such as the circular staircase that leads down to the meeting rooms, the floating “moons” that hover above, the large night shot of Beirut as you enter and the de-structured mirror wall that mimics the modern glazed façades of the adjacent office buildings.
The Key Beirut proudly won the 2019 Luxury ApartHotel in Lebanon award
lebanontraveler.com
The peaceful ambience is carried through to the 87 guest rooms, where aqua colors and themed artwork play an active role in adding to the sense of calm and well-being. To round things off, a lush garden lounge brings an oasis of serenity to the dense urban fabric that surrounds the hotel, providing guests with yet another space to disconnect. thekeybeirut.com
Architect Galal Mahmoud
#MYKEYTOBEIRUT
+961 1 42 42 47
reservations@thekeybeirut.com
thekeybeirut.com
62 GETAWAYS
4
Coastal Getaways If your definition of summer is being by the sea then you’ll love our suggestion of getaways that span the Lebanese coastline, from north to south.
1. L’AUBERGE DE LA MER BATROUN, NORTH LEBANON
In the heart of Batroun’s old souks lies L’Auberge de la Mer, a nine-room boutique hotel where guests can enjoy marvelous sea views and a slower pace of life. The building itself is quite magnificent. Built in the 19th century, it stands in the shadow of two historic churches just a few feet away from the port and the city’s well-known sites. The guest rooms are cozy and colorful, and the rooftop pool is a great spot to cool down after a day exploring the area. What to do in the area Batroun boasts some fantastic beaches (refer to page 50) and is a treasure trove of Phoenician, Roman and Byzantine history. Make sure you visit the Roman theater with its nine remaining steps and the old souks, a charming cobble-stoned market with vaulted sandstone archways where you can pick up local items and sip traditional lemonade. You’ll also be amazed by the 225-meter Phoenician Wall along the seafront, which served as protection against high seas and invaders during the Phoenician era. The Cathedral of Saint Stephen (refer to page 48) overlooks the old harbor and the 13th century Greek Orthodox Church of Saint George is also nearby. Saint George is recognized for its impressive dome and tiny chapel known as Our Lady of the Sea. The fairytale castle of Mseilha, a medieval fort, is located a short five-minute drive out of Batroun, while a number of boutique wineries can be reached in under twenty minutes, including Batroun Mountains (03 928299), IXSIR (09 210023), Adyar (09 926950), Aurora (03 295458), Coteaux de Botrys (06 721300), Domaine S. Najm (03 524425) and Chateau Sanctus (03 661699). Mina St., Batroun, 06 740824/5, laubergedelamer.com
Photo: Rasheed Kalawoon
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2. CAMPING LES COLOMBES AMCHIT, MOUNT LEBANON Established in 1965, Camping Les Colombes was the country’s first official campsite. It is located in Amchit where it occupies an impressive 27,000sqm on a 40m cliff overlooking the sea. Apart from camping, various room types and chalets are available. No activities are provided at the camp, but it has access to two rocky beaches that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling. Guests can barbecue their own fish and huddle around the campfire at night making it a great option for families and adventurous groups. What to do in the area Visit the house of the Zakhia family where the French philosopher, historian and author Ernest Renan stayed in the 19th century and observe other traditional homes in the village. Old churches built on the remains of Roman temples can also be found in Amchit, such as the Church of Saint George featuring an altar with Greek and Arabic inscriptions. Drive half an hour north and you’ll reach Lebanon’s second largest city, Tripoli, where sightseeing opportunities are plentiful. Don’t miss the Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles, the Old Souks, Mansouri Mosque, Rachid Karami International Fair and Al Mina. Take a boat ride from Al Mina to the Palm Island Reserve, which consists of three islands protected by UNESCO, and see endangered turtles and rabbits. Nakheel, the largest island, is open to the public from July to September.
Photo: Issan Jawad
Amchit, 09 622401/2, campinglescolombes.com campamchit campinglescolombes
3. BEIT EL BAHR TABARJA, MOUNT LEBANON Located in the popular seaside town of Tabarja, 35km from Beirut, Beit El Bahr is a charming guesthouse offering uninterrupted sea views and direct access to the beach. The building itself is a masterpiece; a 19th century Lebanese home featuring six bedrooms, tall arched windows and vaulted ceilings. In addition, there is a pretty terrace where guests can relax, read a book or just swing in the hammock. All in all, it’s an ideal destination for those seeking a traditional property which offers modern comforts. What to do in the area There are numerous water sports available in Tabarja and a number of good seafood restaurants too. Jounieh is just 15 minutes away by car, so you can explore the old souk and take the Teleferique (09 936075, teleferiquelb.com) up to Harissa and back. Byblos is also a short drive along the coast where you’ll find restaurants, cafés and beach resorts not to mention historic landmarks, including the Crusader Castle, Old Port and Old Souks.
Coastal Highway, Tabarja, 03 753444, beitelbahr.com
Photo: Peter Ghanime
64 GETAWAYS
4. LES ATELIERS DE TYR TYRE, SOUTH LEBANON From empowering women to reviving ancient Phoenician traditions, Les Ateliers de Tyr does it all. This unique project, founded by a nonprofit organization, is located just outside the center of Tyre where it offers visitors the chance to learn about crafts - screen printing, recycled glass blowing, blowpipe glass blowing, glass painting and pottery - through activities and workshops with local artisans. Guests can also pick oranges in the vast orchards that surround the property or go for a hike. The property itself consists of colorful units built with locally-sourced materials - clay, stone and wood - and a large terrace where one can relax and enjoy the view. There is an on-site restaurant and spacious accommodation, including two-bedroom apartments, making it a suitable choice for families. What to do in the area Tyre is the fourth largest city in Lebanon and one of the oldest cities in the world, so there are plenty of things to see and do. Among its historical landmarks are the magnificent Roman hippodrome, Al Mina ruins and Al-Bass necropolis, all accessible within a short drive of Les Ateliers de Tyr. Make sure you spend time at the old souks, the Christian Quarter and the fishing port, where you’ll find a good selection of restaurants and cafés serving fresh seafood. The sandy public beach of Tyre is a mere 10-minute drive from the property. Hammadiyeh, Tyre, 03 475787, ateliersdetyr.org
lesateliersdetyr
MOUNTAIN PICK OF THE SEASON Nestled in the hills overlooking the Lamartine Valley in Metn, the Cherry Blossom Hotel is a peaceful retreat offering guests a memorable stay in the heart of nature. From the moment you enter the arched entrance of this mountain jewel, you’ll be greeted warmly by an enthuasiastic team ready to cater to your every need. Besides the exceptional service, the hotel is well known for its sweeping views and exquisite cuisine. Its Al Karaz restaurant and terrace offers a mixed menu of Lebanese and international favorites using local and handpicked ingredients from the hotel’s orchard. Indeed, guests can tour the gardens during the summer and cultivate
vegetables then watch the fog settling in at night before the start of another sunny day. Mornings are magical, afternoons and evenings are even more so. The hotel comprises 26 uniquely decorated suites, which offer all the comforts one would expect from a boutique hotel. Other amenities include a tennis court and an infinity pool. Those seeking a little adventure can enjoy the hiking trails leading down to the creek that runs through the valley. El Qrayeh, Bhamdoun, 05 262030, cherryblossom-resort.com cherryblossomboutiquehotel cherryblossom.boutiquehotel lebanontraveler.com
66 BEST BEDS
GLORIOUS GUESTHOUSES If being surrounded by thousands of years of history sounds appealing, you’ll be blown away by L’Hôte Libanais’s newest family member in Byblos.
Photos: Walid Rashid
BEIT FARES WA LUCIA There are so many wonderful things to say about Beit Fares wa Lucia, it’s difficult knowing where to begin. Occupying a prime position inside the medieval city wall of Byblos, this loving home is an invitation to travel back in time. Its foundations form part of a Crusader tower and an arch on the ground floor dates back to the 1st century with countless other magnificent architectural features visible throughout the two-story building. Besides its historical significance, Beit Fares wa Lucia is oozing with charm and elegance. Pretty gardens dappled in sunlight, where fragrant flowers and fruit trees grow in abundance, surround the property and a spectacular rooftop terrace provides a magical vantage point over the ancient Citadel of Byblos towards the sea. But perhaps what makes Beit Fares wa Lucia so special is the people running it. The guesthouse is an ode to Lucia al-Kossaifi and her husband Fares, a couple who were admired for their hospitality and acts of generosity lebanontraveler.com
towards the community and spent their lives inviting friends, neighbors and guests to their home while they raised a family of eight children, including Najwa, the current owner. With the help and support of loved ones, Najwa renovated the house to welcome guests, which she does with great passion and enthusiasm. Her free spirit and open heart make her a perfect host, so much so that you’ll quickly feel part of the family. What to do in the area Beit Fares wa Lucia is within walking distance of Byblos’s ancient sites and attractions, including the Old Souks, the Crusader Castle and Old Port area. A plethora of restaurants, bars and cafés can be found in the narrow alleys that meander through the old city towards the port, which is famous for its seafood establishments, and a number of private beach resorts can be reached by car in five minutes. 81 064460, hotelibanais.com
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Home to Lebanon’s biggest cedar reserve and some of the country’s most magnificent palaces, Shouf is teeming with history, culture and nature. Travel blogger and guesthouse reviewer Notes of a Traveler visits two new guesthouses in the area that boast great views and a homey ambience.
Photos: Walid Rashid for L’Hôte Libanais
LA MAISON DU BONHEUR
Photo: Krystel Riachi
BEIT LEBBOS Sleep in a 200-year-old house and wake up to the sight of the glorious Beiteddine Palace at Beit Lebbos. Strategically located facing the palace, the renovated home welcomes guests in cozy and modern rooms that enjoy a common terrace with a stunning view. In addition to its seven rooms, the guesthouse also features a second terrace where guests can take a dip in the jacuzzi and enjoy breakfast, never too far from the generous hospitality of the owner himself. 70 283838, beitlebbos.com
Lovers of nature, serenity and fresh air will feel on top of the world by spending a weekend at La Maison du Bonheur in Deir El Qamar. This charming bed and breakfast offers a view over mountains and villages from its pretty garden, basking its guests in fragrances of flowers and herbs, and awakening their taste buds to a fresh organic breakfast. Ama, the owner and Deir El Qamar native, will make you feel at home from the moment you arrive and share her passion for nature with you. 81 064460, hotelibanais.com What to do in the area Both guesthouses are a great starting point to explore the picturesque village of Deir El Qamar and the many attractions of Shouf, including Moussa Castle, Beiteddine Palace, Mir Amine Palace, Moukhtara, Atelier Assaf, Barouk Cedar Reserve and Baakline River. notesofatraveler.com
notes.of.a.traveler lebanontraveler.com
68 ON THE TRAIL
A TRAIL THROUGH BASTA AND BACHOURA Stretching almost four kilometers, Independence Street is one of the longest thoroughfares in Beirut. Zawarib takes us on a walk to discover the area, from Bechara el Khoury Avenue to Ahmad Daouk Street, where we learn more about this historically significant yet undervalued part of the city.
Bechara el Khoury statue
Beirut Digital District
Encompassing the Basta and Bachoura sectors of the city, where one can find antique stores, an Ottoman cemetery, public gardens and a mishmash of old ornate architecture and new nondescript buildings, this part of the city also includes a crosssection of residents belonging to many faiths. Electric cables and telephone wires decorate the streets here more densely than in any other part of Beirut. We start our journey at the imposing largerthan-life statue of Bechara el Khoury (1), a metal and marble edifice that pays homage to the nation’s first president. After having lebanontraveler.com
served as Lebanon’s prime minister in the late 1920s, Bechara el Khoury was appointed president under the French Mandate in September 1943, and two months later imprisoned before being released to lead an independent Lebanon for the first time on November 22, 1943. Not so long ago, before the creation of the twin underpass system, this was one of the most chaotic intersections in the city. From here you can have a clear view towards Sodeco, with the road gently sloping upwards, and the buildings of Monot and Sama Beirut dominating the skyline.
Basta. Photos: Antonio Haber
Walking in the opposite direction along Independence Street you’ll pass Chmaitelly (2), an established eatery for succulent farrouj (roasted chicken). In the distance, beyond the buildings on the main road, is an area dense with traditional villas built over a hundred years ago. Resplendent and decrepit, most now house migrant workers. Soon after you’ll reach Falafel Khalifé (3), the first shop of the original king of falafel. The street is abuzz with boys on mopeds, vegetable carts, shoppers, cars and trucks. Sounds and smells emanate from all directions, yet Beirut’s blue sky
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remains clear. In the midst of this cacophony is Basta Cemetery (4), built during the Ottoman period on a triangular plot higher than the surrounding area. The tomb of the cemetery’s architect is beautifully enshrined with period columns and a discrete dome that is visible from anywhere in the vicinity. Nearby you’ll find Basta Public Garden (5), recently renamed Walid Eido Garden, and a newly opened public space called Hawd al Wilayeh Garden (6). Set on many levels with ramps and stone steps, Hawd al Wilayeh contains manicured trees and plants and a kids’ playground.
From here, before we get to Ahmad Daouk Street, is a road that leads down towards the fire station and the Assabil Public Library (7). This area is famous for its antique stores selling everything from retro radios to Ottoman divans; though nowadays visitors can expect to pay a hefty price for items as long gone are the days of the quick bargain. On the other side of the cemetery, named Khandaq al Ghammiq, is Bachoura. This area has witnessed considerable development over recent years with the Beirut Digital District (8) taking up a lot of the renovated and reconstructed buildings. Here you’ll find
the offices of Uber and Microsoft, trendy cafés and coworking spaces as well as the shell of Saint George Church (9) on Tyane Street, which is being renovated and is set to reopen next year. Nearby, however, a recent development foundation dig (10) has unearthed evidence of a city that existed during the GrecoRoman period, similar to that found in the neighboring Downtown area: a constant reminder that we are simply visitors in this eternal city that is constantly changing yet forever remains Beirut. zawarib.org
zawarib_beirut
zawarib
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70 AGENDA
SAVE THE DATE
Don’t miss a moment of the action! We bring you the coolest events taking place this summer.
Whisky Live Beirut
CHANTAL GOYA: LE SOULIER QUI VOLE Where: The Parks BIEL, Furn El Chebbak When: 29 - 30 June
JUNE CABRIOLET FILM FESTIVAL Where: Gemmayze Stairs, Beirut When: 7 - 9 June For its 11th edition, this outdoor movie festival will screen numerous films from around the world under the theme “Untold.” cabrioletfilmfestival.com
BAZZAR BY CIRQUE DU SOLEIL Where: The Parks, New BIEL When: 19 - 30 June Recognized the world over for its spectacular performances, Cirque Du Soleil brings its new show “Bazzar” to Beirut, which pays homage to its longstanding legacy. antoineticketing.com
TRIPOLI INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL Where: Rachid Karami Stadium, Tripoli When: 20 - 23 June Watch some of Lebanon’s most talented artists on stage: Guy Manoukian and Joseph Attieh (20 June), Wael Kfoury (22 June) and Melhem Zein (23 June). ticketingboxoffice.com
ZIAD RAHBANI: BI MA ENNO… Where: Nabu Museum, El Heri When: 22 June Don’t miss the chance to watch music icon Ziad Rahbani in a rare performance of his album “Bi Ma Enno.” ticketingboxoffice.com lebanontraveler.com
World-acclaimed songstress Chantal Goya is making a special stop for two nights in Lebanon. Catch her as she performs a set from her album “Le Soulier Qui Vole.” ticketingboxoffice.com
CEDARS INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL Where: Bcharre When: 29 June - 13 July This year’s program includes a special performance by the world’s favorite tenor Andrea Bocelli (29 June) as well as Smile Lebanon, a play that stars the country’s biggest names in comedy (13 July). cedarsinternationalfestival.org
JULY JOUNIEH INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL Where: Jounieh Bay When: 1 - 18 July Kicking off with a performance by international singer Kendji Girac (1 July) followed Majida El Roumi (12 July), the festival closes with a rocking performance by Lebanese band Adonis (18 July) and a magnificent fireworks display. jouniehinternationalfestival.com
BEIRUT DESIGN WEEK Where: Around Beirut When: 2 - 7 July Under the theme “Design & Nostalgia,” the eighth edition of Beirut Design Week will host countless events around Beirut
highlighting the works of Lebanese and international designers and artists. beirutdesignweek.org
BAALBECK INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL Where: Bacchus Temple, Baalbeck When: 5 July - 3 August
This year’s edition starts with a concert by the renowned singer Marcel Khalife on 5 July, and closes with a set by Omar Bashir and his band on 3 August. Other performances include Melody Gardot (7 July), a tribute show to music icon Abdel Halim Hafiz (20 July),a performance of Requiem G. Verdi (26 July), Jain (1 August), and Jahida Wehbe (2 August). baalbeck.org.lb
BEIRUT HOLIDAYS Where: Beirut Waterfront When: 11 - 26 July There will be plenty of Arabic music to enjoy at Beirut Holidays with performances by Wael Kfoury (11 July), Nassif Zeytoun (14 July), Ziad Rahbani (19 July) and Elissa (26 July). In addition, you can listen to Yanni (23 July), and an 80s medley show (17 July). ticketingboxoffice.com
BYBLOS INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL Where: Byblos Port When: 12 July - 24 August Get ready for Marc Lavoine (12 July), Queen Symphonic (20 July), Charbel Rouhana and Melhem Zein (26 July), Martin Garrix (3 August), Within Temptation (7 August), Mashrou’ Leila (9 August) and Yo-Yo Ma (24 August). byblosfestival.org
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72 AGENDA BEITEDDINE ART FESTIVAL Where: Beiteddine Palace When: 18 July - 10 August Welcoming Arab singing sensation Kadim El Sahir (1 - 3 July), this festival will also include performances by Gabriel Yared and Yasmina Joumblatt (18 July), Gerard Depardieu (20 July), Broken Wings (24 - 26 July), Abdel Rahman El Bacha and Billy Eidi (30 July), Omar Rahbany and The Passport Chamber Ensemble (6 August), Monday Blues Band (8 August) and a tribute to Abdel Halim Hafiz (10 August). beiteddineartfestival.com
EHDENIYAT INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL Where: Ehden When: 26 July - 10 August Kadim El Sahir is returning for three consecutive nights. The festival will then host a Lebanese Arabic night (4 August), and close with a concert by French singer Gerard Lenorman (10 August). ehdeniyat.org
KFARDEBIAN INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL Where: Faqra Ruins, Kfardebian When: 27 July - 4 August Ghassan Saliba, Saber Rebaï, William
Goldenberg are among the performers who you can find at this year’s edition. ticketingboxoffice.com
BEIRUT DESIGN FAIR
AUGUST
In a bid to reassert Lebanon as the design hub of the Middle East, the fair showcases contemporary and vintage furniture and design objects from over 40 exhibitors. beirut-design-fair.com
SIDON INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL Where: Saida Waterfront When: TBD
Where: Seaside Arena, Beirut When: 19 - 22 September
Wael Kfoury will be serenading the crowd with his amazing vocals. ticketingboxoffice.com
BEIRUT ART FAIR
SEPTEMBER
The 10th edition of Beirut Art Fair will bring together the works of over 50 galleries representing over 20 countries. beirut-art-fair.com
WICKERPARK FESTIVAL Where: Batroun When: TBD Wickerpark Festival is a zero-waste, grassroots alternative music festival that brings together new and emerging bands. wickerparkfestival.com
LEBANON LATIN FESTIVAL Where: Eddésands, Byblos When: 4 - 9 September To spice up the end of the summer the Lebanon Latin Festival is celebrating its Hollywood edition by bringing you more than 80 instructors and DJs, 125 workshops, 90 shows, and three arenas where you can party until the early morning. lebanonlatinfestival.com
Where: Seaside Arena, Beirut When: 19 - 22 September
OCTOBER WHISKY LIVE BEIRUT Where: Seaside Pavilion, Beirut When: 10 - 12 October Back for its fourth edition, Whisky Live Beirut is the premier whisky-tasting event of the region. Learn about the most exquisite whiskies from around the world and take part in special tastings and masterclasses. whiskylivebeirut.com Keep up to date with the latest events taking place across the country by following Lebanon Traveler on Facebook and Instagram, and visiting lebanontraveler.com
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GUIDE AT A GLANCE MUSEUMS BEIRUT ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF BEIRUT 01 759665 aub.edu.lb LEBANESE PREHISTORY MUSEUM 01 421860 usj.edu.lb MIM MINERAL MUSEUM 01 421000 mim.museum NATIONAL MUSEUM OF BEIRUT 01 426703 beirutnationalmuseum.com SURSOCK MUSEUM 01 202001 sursock.museum VILLA AUDI MOSAIC MUSEUM 01 219943 audifoundation.org.lb
MOUNT LEBANON ASSAF MUSEUM Ain Zhelta 71 211915 atelierassaf.org BEITEDDINE PALACE MUSEUM Beiteddine 05 500 077 BOUTROS FARHAT MUSEUM Jbeil 03 348919 farhatartmuseum.com BSOUS SILK MUSEUM Bsous 05 940767 thesilkmuseum.com BYBLOS FOSSIL MUSEUM /MEMORY OF TIME Byblos 09 540555 memoryoftime.com BYBLOS HISTORIC WAX MUSEUM Bybos 09 540463 bybloswaxmuseum.com LEBANESE HERITAGE MUSEUM Beit Mery 03 850800 lebaneseheritagemuseum.org
MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM (MACAM) Alita, Byblos 03 271500 macamlebanon.org MTEIN MUSEUM OF ARTS Mtein 03 590861 MUSEUM GEORGE KHAIRALLAH Mtein 03 769470 georgekhairallah.com
NORTH LEBANON ALFRED BASBOUS MUSEUM & EXHIBITION Batroun 06 720903 alfredbasbous.com GIBRAN KHALIL GIBRAN MUSEUM Bcharre 06 671137 gibrankhalilgibran.org
SOUTH LEBANON MOUSSA TIBA MUSEUM Cana 07 430149 SAIDA SOAP MUSEUM Saida 07 733353 soapmuseumsaida.com TOURIST LANDMARK OF THE RESISTANCE Mleeta 07 210211 mleeta.com
CAVES & GROTTOS MOUNT LEBANON AIN W ZEIN CAVE 03 619551 (Anouar el Husseini) ainwzeingrotto.com JEITA GROTTO 09 220840 jeitagrotto.com KFARHIM CAVE 03 448223/05 720500 (Chafic and Houssam Abou Khouzam; Wael Abou Khaouzam) MEBAAJ GROTTO 03 056520/70 856974 (Nabil Haidar) mabaj.com ROUIESS Akoura 03 128708
LEBANESE MARINE AND WILDLIFE MUSEUM NORTH LEBANON QADISHA GROTTO Jeita 07 343016 03 384313/06 671088 lmwm.org lebanontraveler.com
ZAHLAN Dannieh 70 322999
TOUR ORGANIZERS & ECO-TOUR OPERATORS 33 NORTH Activities: Bedouin adventures, hiking, biking, rafting trips, canoeing, cross-country skiing, snow-shoeing, winter snow survival camps, caving trips, rural tourism, team building and scuba diving 71 331138/03 454996 33-north.com ADVENTURES IN LEBANON Activities: hiking, rafting, kayaking, biking, climbing, camping, boat trips, snowshoeing, caving trips, visits to wineries and vineyards, horseback riding and paragliding 71 443323 adventuresinlebanon.com BORN2HIKE Activities: hiking, snowshoeing 03 287838 born2hike.com BYBLOS & BEYOND Activities: rural and family travel, hiking, rafting trips, boat trips, fishing trips and caving trips 03 912205 byblosandbeyond.com CLUB DES SENTIERS Activities: hiking, snowshoeing, crosscountry skiing and backcountry skiing 03 623813 CLUB THERMIQUE Activities: paragliding, hot-air ballooning, skiing, snowboarding trips, hiking, climbing, biking, rafting and other stunts 03 933359 clubthermique.org CYCLING CIRCLE Activities: biking, fishing, “circling Beirut” of Beirut by bike 03 126675 cycling-circle.com
More online lebanontraveler.com DALE CORAZON Activities: hiking, caving, camping, rafting, snowshoeing and horseback riding 70 986118 dalecorazon.com ESPRIT NOMADE ADVENTURES LEBANON Activities: hiking, rural trips, family travel, biking, camping and fishing by night 03 223552/09 933552 esprit-nomade.com EXIT TO NATURE Activities: Paragliding 03 270592/03 684556 exittonature.com FOOTPRINTS NATURE CLUB Activities: hiking, caving, snowshoeing, rafting, kayaking and climbing 03 876112 footprintsclub.com GREAT ESCAPE Activities: expeditions, hiking, snowshoeing, bird watching, rural tourism, and igloo adventures 03 360027/03 336193 greatescape.com.lb GREY FOX ADVENTURES Activities: camping, hiking, climbing and star gazing 71 111079 HASH HOUSE HARRIERS Activities: hiking 03 847249 beiruthash.com HIGHKINGS 961 Activities: hiking 70 270178 highkings961.com I-HIKE Activities: hiking, rafting trips, snowshoeing 03 198686 IBEX ECOTOURISM Activities: cross country skiing, hiking, biking and snowshoeing 01 216299/03 043530 ibex-ecotours.com LEBANESE ADVENTURE Activities: rafting, biking, snowshoeing, hiking, bird watching, animal watching, star gazing, rural tourism and igloo adventures 03 234178/03 214989 lebanese-adventure.com
LEBANESE EXPLORERS Activities: hiking, camping 78 833256 LEBANESE EXPLORERS Activities: hiking, camping 78 833256 LEBANESE WANDERERS Activities: hiking, camping 71 662862 lebanesewanderers.com LIBAN TRECK Activities: hiking, cross country skiing and caving trips 01 329975/03 291616 libantrek.com O CLUB Activities: climbing, hiking, camping, rafting, skiing, caving trips and biking 03 854038 oclub-lb.com OUTDOORS UBIQUE TEAM Activities: snowshoeing, skiing, snowboarding, snow kite, kitesurfing, skiing, caving, hiking, camping, skydiving and free-diving 76 495495 ubiqueteam.com PN2 ADVENTURE & ORGANIZING Activities: hiking and climbing 71 720401/01 481021 PROMAX Activities: physical fitness and creative intellectual activities for fitness and fun. 03 955642 SAFARI LEBANON Activities: safari expeditions 03 954052/01 360227 safarlebanon.com SPORT EVASION Activities: sports and corporate 03 392912/05 956614 sponevasionme.com SPORTS4LIFE Activities: climbing, caving, camping, hiking, cross-country shoeing, biking, and igloo adventures 03 574874 sports4life-lb.com TLB DESTINATIONS Activities: biking, hiking and rural tourism 04 402634 tlb-destinations.com
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TOURLEB Activities: hiking and rural tourism 70 484545 tourleb.com WALKLEB Activities: hiking and biking 70 353738 walkleb.com WE ARE HIKERS Activities: hiking and snowshoeing 03 582084 wearehikers.com WE ARE THE ADVENTURERS Activities: cross-country skiing 01 738037/03 747796 toutactivites.com WILDLEBANON Activities: hiking, biking, snowshoeing and camping 04 922999/03 666565 baldati.com
GUESTHOUSES BEIRUT BAFFA HOUSE 81 668221 baffahouse.com BEIT EL HAMRA Hamra 81 266060 soukeltayeb.com BEIT EL TAWLET Mar Mikhael 01 448129 soukeltayeb.com DAR AL ACHRAFIEH Achrafieh 01 566874 hotelibanais.com ZANZOUN Mar Mikhael 81 064460 hotelibanais.com
MOUNT LEBANON AKOURA GUESTHOUSE Akoura 03 183541 AL AQED GUESTHOUSE Barouk 71 172270 AUBERGE BEITY Kferzebia 09 710109 beity.org AUBERGE SAINT MICHAEL Shouf 05 350451 auberge.arcenciel.org lebanontraveler.com
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76 GUIDE BEIT EL BAHR Tabarja 03 753444 beitelbahr.com BEIT EL HANA Shouf 05 350451 auberge.arcenciel.org BEIT EL QAMAR Deir El Qamar 05 511722 beitelqamar.com
LA MAISON DES SOURCES Ain Zhalta 70 140658
ECO DALIDA Tannourine 03 679055
LES CABANES DE BAADARAN Shouf 05 311191
ECODALIDA GUESTHOUSE Tannourine 06 500007
MAATOUK GUESTHOUSE Douma 71 044968
GRANEROVERDE Quoubaiyat 70 473347 graneroverde.com
MTEIN GUESTHOUSE Mtein 71 981843
MAYOULI BED AND BREAKFAST Batroun 71 000516
BEIT FARES WA LUCIA Byblos 81 064460
MY STONE CELLAR Douma 71 283485 mystonecellar.com
BEIT LEBBOS Beiteddine 70 283838 beitlebbos.com
NAZIH BAZ GUESTHOUSE Shouf 05 311191
THE TIGER GUESTHOUSE Bcharre 06 672480
RAWA2 VILLAGE Deir El Qamar 05 512177 rawa2village.com
SOUTH LEBANON
BEIT WADIH Ghazir 76 377155 beitwadih.com BKERZAY Shouf 03 512020 bkerzay.com BOUYOUTI Shouf 03 310200 bouyouti.com BYOUT GHALBOUN Byblos 09 771999 byoutghalboun.com CEZAR’S GUESTHOUSE Barouk 76 711811 authenticshouf.com CHAFIC MERSHAD GUESTHOUSE Shouf 05 330755 DAR HANEEN Bhersaf 03 552963 DAR LINDA Shouf 81 064460 hotelibanais.com DEIR EL OUMARA Deir El Qamar 05 511577 DIMITRIADES GUESTHOUSE Ghbaleh 71 307301 GUITA BED AND BLOOM Akoura 03 050567 guita.co HOUSSAM EL EID GUESTHOUSE Shouf 71 131104 LA MAISON DU BONHEUR Deir El Qamar 81 064460 hotelibanais.com lebanontraveler.com
ZITA FIDAR Fidar 76 504100 hotelibanais.com
NORTH LEBANON ABOU DRAA GUESTHOUSE Sir El Denniyeh 03 817312 serhal.org ABOU MOUSTAPHA GUESTHOUSE Quemmamine 03 148668 ALI ISSA GUESTHOUSE Akkar 06 825854 AUBERGE HADATH EL JEBBEH Bcharre 03 422008 B&B TAFLA Batroun 71 749448 BEIT AL BATROUN Batroun 03 270049 beitalbatroun.com BEIT BRIDI Batroun 76 333569 abdelliterraces.net/beit-bridi BEIT DOUMA Douma 06 520702 beitdouma.com BEIT EL NESSIM Tripoli 06 200983 beitelnessim.com
TALEB GUESTHOUSE Akkar 06 995505
AL YASMINE GUEST HOUSE Tyre 03 372888 alyasmineguesthouse.com BEIT MATTA Jarjouaa 03 419648 DAR ALMA Tyre 07 740082 DAR CAMELIA Tyre 01 7740082 darcameliatyre.com LES ATELIERS DE TYR Tyre 03 475787 TYRE REST HOUSE Tyre 07 742000 resthouse-tyr.com.lb
BEKAA L’ANNEXE Baalbeck 81 064460 hotelibanais.com BEIT AMMIQ Ammiq 03 004481 soukeltayeb.com DOLINE HADDAD GUESTHOUSE Bekaa 08 566997 DOMAINE DE CHOUCHENE Qob Elias 71 543522 domainechouchene.com HARAMOUN GUESTHOUSE Rashaya 71 219472
DAR QADISHA Qadisha 81 064460 hotelibanais.com
AL HAUSH Zahle 81 064460 hotelibanais.com
DEIR MAR JERJES Akkar 03 810355
WADA GUESTHOUSE Bekaa 08320239
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78 GUIDE
BEACHES & RESORTS
LAZY B BEACH Jiyeh 07 996318 lazyb.me
BEIRUT
NOMAD Byblos 71 000677
LE YACHT CLUB BEIRUT 01 762800 leyachtclubbeirut.com MADAME BLEU 01 366222 madamebleubeirut.com RIVIERA BEACH LOUNGE 01 373210 rivierahotel.com.lb SAINT GEORGES YACHT CLUB & MARINA 01 370741 stgeorges-hotel.com SPORTING CLUB BEACH 01 742200 sportingclub-lb.com
MOUNT LEBANON ABOU PHILIPPE BEACH Byblos 09 796226 AL MANDALOUN BEACH CLUB Dbayeh 03 405060 almandaloun.com BAHAMAS BEACH RESORT Jiyeh 07 955042/3 DAMOUR BEACH RESORT Damour 76 883737 EDDE SANDS RESORT / E-HOTEL Byblos 09 546085 eddesands.com IRIS BEACH CLUB Damour 71 533318 JANNA SUR MER S.A.L Damour 05 602646 JONAS BEACH Jiyeh 07 995000 LA SIESTA Khalde 05 815555 LAGON SKI CLUB Jounieh 09 916342 LAGUAVA RESORT Rmeileh 07990101 laguavaresort.com
lebanontraveler.com
OCEANA BEACH Rmeileh 03 191515 oceana-resort.com ORCHID BEACH RESORT Jiyeh 07 996303 orchid-lifestyle.com PANGEA BEACH RESORT & SPA Jiyeh 07 995580 warwickpangea.com SENSES HOTEL, RESORT & CLUB Kaslik 09 213212 clubsenses.com VEER BOUTIQUE HOTEL & RESORT Kaslik 09 222623 veer.com.lb
NORTH LEBANON COLONEL REEF Batroun 03 743543 ISLA Batroun 76 369361 JUNE Amchit 70 553399 MARINA DEL SOL BEACH RESORT Anfeh 06 541301 marinadelsol.info NANAYA El Heri 03 326272 O GLACÉE Batroun 06 741841 ORCHID BEACH LOUNGE Batroun 06 740840 orchid-lifestyle.com PIERRE & FRIENDS Batroun 03 352930 WHITE BEACH Batroun 06 742404
SOUTH LEBANON CLOUD 59 Tyre 03 517996
WATER PARKS RIO LENTO WATER PARK Nahr El Kalb 04 912626 riolento.com WATERGATE AQUA PARK Dbayeh 04 555666 leroyal.com/en/beirut/watergate-aqua-park WAVES AQUA PARK Mansourieh 04 533555 wavesaquapark.com
SPAS AL BUSTAN HOTEL & SPA Beit Mery 04 870400 albustanhotel.com FOUR SEASONS HOTEL BEIRUT Beirut 01 761900 fourseasons.com/beirut G SPA Beirut 01 210220 gspa.me GRAND HILLS VILLAGE & SPA Broumana 04 862888 grandhillsvillage.com LAS SALINAS SPA Anfeh 06 540970 lassalinas-lb.com LE GRAY BEIRUT HOTEL Beirut 01 971111 legray.com LE ROYAL HOTELS & RESORTS BEIRUT Dbayeh 04 555555 leroyalbeirut.com MOVENPICK HOTEL & RESORT BEIRUT Beirut 01 799501 movenpick-beirut.com PHOENICIA HOTEL BEIRUT Beirut 01 369110 phoeniciabeirut.com RESENSE SPA Beirut 01 828455 kempinski.com/beirut LIPHE | WELLNESS RETREAT Koura 03 006637 liphe.me
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