Lebanon Traveler - Winter 2018/Spring 2019 (issue 25)

Lebanon 8.000 LBP

A publication of Hospitality Services | Issue 25 | Winter 2018 - Spring 2019

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A publication of Hospitality Services Group Editor Nouhad Dammous Managing Director Joumana Dammous-Salamé Editor Lisa Jerejian Publication Manager Zeina Dammous-Nahas Project and Sales Manager Maha Khoury-Hasbani Writer Rayan Badaoui Publication Executive Rita Ghantous Senior Graphic Designer Ibrahim Kastoun Sales department Randa Pharaon, Josette Hikri, Nancy Mouawad Subscription Coordinators Houayda Haddad-Rouman, Mirna Maroun Circulation Coordinator Rita Nohra Kejijian Production and Printing 53dots

Laklouk. Photo: Wissam Moussa

Wander and wonder Gibran Khalil Gibran once said: “We wanderers, ever seeking the lonelier way, begin no day where we have ended another day; and no sunrise finds us where sunset left us. Even while the earth sleeps we travel. We are the seeds of the tenacious plant, and it is in our ripeness and our fullness of heart that we are given to the wind and are scattered.”

It has been an exciting year for Lebanon Traveler in more ways than one. Not only did we launch our new-look website, which we’re continuously fine-tuning, we also collaborated on a number of projects with a variety of organizations to further support our beloved country. With the aim of celebrating the beauty and diversity of the country, we created a series of postcards with talented amateur photographers and worked with Libanpost so people could send them for free to their friends and family in Lebanon.

Published by Hospitality Services s.a.r.l.

Burghol Building, Dekwaneh, Lebanon P.O.Box 90 155 Jdeidet el Metn 1202 2020 To advertise call 01 480081 or fax 01 482876

We are grateful to you, our amazing readers, for inspiring and helping us grow especially over the past twelve months; and thus we are thrilled to share with you this, our final issue of 2018.

We welcome views on any relevant subject. The editor reserves the right to select and edit letters.

Please e-mail your comments to lt@hospitalityservices.com.lb

In our summer edition we encouraged you to embrace new adventures and enjoy the ride; this remains our mantra. Lebanon is full of endless possibilities and the season ahead brings with it fresh and exciting experiences.

All the information disclosed in the magazine was provided by the parties concerned by each publication and checked to the highest possible extent by the editors. However, the magazine cannot ensure accuracy at all times of all information published and therefore could in no case be held responsible should any information reveal to be false or insufficient.

Cover photo by Joe Sokhn

Follow him on joe.sokhn

Passionate about photography and nature, Joe captured the cover photo while walking with his children, Marc and Mateo, in Aramoun where he grew up.

He encourages his sons to spend time outdoors, away from technology, to discover the beauty of their homeland.

We traveled up and down the country to find hidden getaways and tried countless outdoor sports from snowboarding to paragliding. We wandered around art museums and explored ancient temples.

Our adventures took us to Bkassine, Saghbine and countless other places. We ended up in Beirut, where we warmed up at some cozy coffee shops and partied at the hottest night spots.

All that remains to say is that Lebanon Traveler would not be possible without the support of our contributors, whose wonderful words and photographs have enriched this magazine.

Let’s enjoy this incredible country responsibly and make it a season to remember.

lebanontraveler.com Follow us @lebanontraveler

# Hashtag us #LebanonTraveler Like us LebanonTraveler Write to us lt@hospitalityservices.com.lb

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CONTENTS 06 Contributors

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Names and faces behind Lebanon Traveler

08 Shopping

27 26 44 62

Items with a Lebanese twist

10 Interview with Ibrahim Maalouf A musical journey

20

14 Hot topic

Alternative activities around Lebanon

48

16 Reader's experience

An afternoon with the French and Italian ambassadors

18 Responsible Lebanon

Green organizations making a difference

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58

30

45 24

40

26

32

25 22

20 In focus

UNESCO biospheres: Jabal Moussa and Shouf

22 Focus on Bkassine Five things to do

59

24 Hidden gems

Six incredible temples

26 Indoors

Seven spectacular art museums

28 Culinary heritage

The sour taste of Lebanon

30 Customs and traditions

47 Winter guide

32 The great escape

56 Getaways

34 Outdoor action

58 Best beds

36 Design in Lebanon

60 Lebanon in pictures

40 Iconic places

62 On the trail

42 Region through an artist's eyes

64 Agenda

44 Religious tourism

66 Top tips with Bassam Fattouh

Misbaha rituals

Saghbine, Bekaa

Adrenaline-pumping outdoor sports Karen Chekerdjian, Nada G and Karoline Lang Abandoned places in Mount Lebanon The world of Nadim Karam Two new landmarks

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Night spots, cafĂŠs and ski resorts Five places to get away from it all Beit El Wadi, Jardins de Tyr and Beyt El Jabal Instagram photo journey

Batroun and beyond with Road of Angels A roundup of the best events Makeup artist to the stars

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Customs and traditions

22

Bkassine

42

Nadim Karam

48

Hot bars and clubs

Temples

34 Outdoor action 10 Ibrahim Maalouf

30

56

Getaways

36

Lebanese designers

40

Iconic places

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CONTRIBUTORS Pia Abboud

Founder of Discovery Beyond Borders, a travel blog and tour company, Pia is a heritage management specialist. She loves to step outside her comfort zone and enjoy authentic experiences with the locals wherever she finds herself. discoverybeyondborders.com

Josiane Atallah

Josiane loves to collect postcards from all the places she visits, be it in her beloved Lebanon or abroad. Currently employed as a teacher, Josiane spends her free time writing, going on road trips and exploring new places.

Nadine Chemali

Nadine is a computer engineer who dreams of visiting every corner of the world. When she is not traveling, she is a tourist in her country. She shares her adventures on her blog, Infinite Curl. infinitecurl.com infinitecurl

Nour Farra-Haddad

Nour has a PhD, and is a religious anthropologist and researcher, managing her own travel consultant company NEOS. She is the author of Eco-Lebanon: Nature & Rural Tourism and Wiz Kids guidebooks. neoslb.com

Peter Ghanime

Always on road trips in search of beautiful destinations, Peter is an avid photographer. He enjoys capturing his beloved Lebanon through the lens and sharing his snapshots with the world. peterwenmaken

Ragheb Ismail

Ragheb is a neurophysiology technician at AUBMC. He enjoys spending his weekends exploring the country and taking photographs of the beauty that surrounds him. He is particularly drawn to lakes and waterfalls. ragheb02

Zeinab Jeambey

With a background in nutrition, food heritage and tourism, Zeinab developed Darb el Karam, the first food tourism trail in Lebanon, a key program of the Food Heritage Foundation.

She is project manager at the LMTA. food-heritage.org, lebanontrail.org lebanontraveler.com

Nidal Majdalani

Nidal is a photographer, keen hiker, road-trip fanatic, and a nature and heritage lover. She is always traveling across Lebanon taking photos that showcase her belief in the country, reflected in her photojournalism articles. nidal.majdalani Nidal Majdalani

Wissam Moussa

Wissam never lets his engineering degree get in the way of his love for the outdoors. From hiking to snowboarding, he has a great sense of adventure and plans to explore every inch of the country. wissammoussa8

Krystel Riachi

Krystel ensures she always quenches her thirst for wandering by exploring Lebanon and the world at large. Full of stories to tell, she launched a travel blog, Notes of a Traveler, which she fills with inspiring travel stories. notesofatraveler.com notes_of_a_traveler

Rami Rizk

Driven by Lebanon's magnificent landscapes, Rami is passionate about aerial photography and videography, which is now his career. His goal every day is to be the best version of himself. rami_rizk89

Elsa Sattout

Elsa is a passionate conservationist, scholar and international professional. She strives to share the value of nature and the importance of reconnecting with it through the interpretation of places and spaces. elsasattout.com

Joe Sokhn

Joe is an IT engineer, whose interests include technology, photography and nature. He enjoys hiking, flying drones and all kinds of water sports. He aims to show the beautiful landscapes of Lebanon through his lens. joe.sokhn

We are always delighted to receive articles and pictures from enthusiastic writers and photographers. If you would like to contribute to Lebanon Traveler magazine and lebanontraveler.com, send an email to lt@hospitalityservices.com.lb

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SHOPPING

THE LEBANON TRAVELER

WISH LIST

If you can’t get enough of Lebanon, these items are for you.

FLIGHT COLLECTION

LEBANESE GOODIE BOX

by Madruzi

by Koullouna

Spreading Lebanese pride worldwide, Madruzi’s stylish, handmade passport covers are made of eco-friendly leather and come in several patterns and colors.

Supporting social initiatives in Lebanon, Koullouna sends its subscribers a surprise box every month full of Lebanese goodness with the stories of each product.

120,000 LBP (80 USD) madruzi

Starting from 67,500 LBP (45 USD) koullounabox.com

ILBRIK EL TAWLET

BEIRUT BRACELET

This hand-blown glass water pitcher upholds traditional design but with a change of function to make pouring into a glass possible.

Add beautiful Arabic calligraphy to your wrist with this gold-plated adjustable brass bracelet.

by Tawlet/Kamal Mouzawak

by Vanina

Starting from 150,000 LBP (100 USD) vanina.me

12,000 LBP (8 USD) Tawlet Beirut, Mar Mikhael, 01 448129

FUNKY SWEATER

by H-Shirt

Keep warm this winter with H-shirt, a Lebanese streetwear brand that promotes local art on high-quality clothing.

52,500 LBP (35 USD) h-shirt.com lebanontraveler.com

More online lebanontraveler.com

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COLORFUL TOTE BAG

EYE-CATCHING MAKEUP

Celebrating Lebanese cuisine, this tote is made from recycled fabric and is very handy for daily use.

Nostalgie d'Orient is a limited-edition makeup set that pays homage to the Middle East by capturing its stories in three pencils: lipstick, concealer and kohl.

by Souk El Tayeb

30,000 LBP (20 USD) Tawlet Beirut, Mar Mikhael, 01 448129

by Bassam Fattouh

115,500 LBP (77 USD) bassamfattouh.com

PERSONALIZED MARSHMALLOWS

by Boff & Jolly

TRENDY BAG

by Joelle Aswad

These fun marshmallows from Boff & Jolly will have you thinking of Lebanon with every bite.

Compact and practical for use throughout the day, show the world how much you love Beirut with this eyecatching three-in-one mini leather bag.

25,500 LBP (17 USD) boffandjolly.com

112,500 LBP (75 USD) joelleaswad

STREET NUMBER PLACE MATS

by Rana Salam

No table is complete without these funky Arabic place mats that celebrate the streets of the Middle East.

82,500 LBP (55 USD) ranasalam.com

TASTY COOKBOOK

by Tony Kitous

If you’re passionate about Lebanese food then try these delicious recipes by Tony Kitous, founder of Comptoir Libanais.

39,000 LBP (26 USD) Available on amazon.com

lebanontraveler.com

10 INTERVIEW

THE MELODY OF

IBRAHIM MAALOUF

lebanontraveler.com

More online lebanontraveler.com

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Lebanese-French trumpet virtuoso Ibrahim Maalouf is a pioneering figure in contemporary jazz. Fusing pop, soul, electro, hip hop and French songs with oriental beats, his music is praised by audiences around the world. In an exclusive interview with Elsa Yazbek Charabati, he talks about his passion for music and his love for Lebanon.

YOU'VE PERFORMED IN HUNDREDS OF VENUES. WHICH COLLABORATION HAS BEEN YOUR FAVORITE? I’ve had many great collaborations, but it’s funny you ask me this question, because I [recently] collaborated with Wynton Marsalis, the pope of jazz, and it was definitely the best musical and human encounter of my life!

IF YOU COULD PERFORM WITH ANYONE ALIVE OR DECEASED WHO WOULD IT BE AND WHY? For me, the best encounters are the most unexpected ones. You can find very talented unknown young artists and meet with famous artists with no talent.

So I don’t care about how popular the person is; what is most valuable to me is human interaction. With Wynton Marsalis it was great because he really improvised with me on stage for the sake of musical research.

YOU COME FROM A FAMILY OF RENOWNED ARTISTS. HOW DID THIS AFFECT YOUR UPBRINGING AND HOW HAS IT SHAPED YOU AS A PERFORMER? Through poetry, literature, music… my family taught me the value of nice things. Knowing how to express emotions through the arts is a strength; in our family our strength is our capacity to build dialogues between cultures. Playing with words, with notes… is our added value. For example, the themes developed by my uncle, Amin Maalouf, in his books are a source of inspiration for me. Music is not only rhythm, it’s a culture that we defend.

YOUR FATHER, NASSIM MAALOUF, IS A WELL-KNOWN CLASSICAL TRUMPET SOLOIST WHO ADAPTED THE TRUMPET TO ARABIC MUSIC BY INTRODUCING THE QUARTER TONE. WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED FROM HIM? I deeply admire my father. He taught me everything I know about the trumpet, classical music, Arabic music; he made me love Feyrouz and made me fall asleep to Umm Kulthum’s songs every night. I don’t think my dad is well recognized,

but he’s a great artist whom I’d like to thank for everything.

YOU HAVE AN EIGHT-YEAR-OLD DAUGHTER. IS SHE MUSICALLY GIFTED? I can’t tell from now, but she plays the flute and the piano. She also loves sports, cooking and spends a lot of time drawing and reading. I let her discover all the possibilities; I don’t push her towards music.

WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN YOUR SECOND CHOICE OF CAREER IF YOU WERE NOT A MUSICIAN? An architect or a journalist.

IF YOU COULD PLAY IN ANY VENUE AROUND THE WORLD WHICH WOULD YOU CHOOSE AND WHY? It’s not the venue that counts, it’s the public. You can perform in a magnificent place with a disinterested crowd who do not interact with you; and by coincidence, you can play spontaneously somewhere and draw the attention of one person who can be enchanted by your art making you feel as though you are in Carnegie Hall.

12 INTERVIEW

YOU'VE JUST RELEASED A NEW ALBUM. TELL US MORE ABOUT IT. I have named the album Levantine Symphony, Number 1 and it’s a kind of anthem common to the Levant as a whole. The idea is not to be prejudiced towards people we don’t really know but to try to understand each other no matter how different we might be. I believe that even beyond love there is something I call 'melody.' When you grasp the melody, you can understand the person. Each couple has its melody that preserves the bond even when love fades away and each family has its own melody: its story, heritage, common experiences… This melody inspires me.

HAVE YOU FOUND LEBANON’S MELODY? Of course; the melody of Lebanon is always here, in my heart.

WHERE DO YOU LIKE TO SPEND YOUR TIME IN LEBANON? In Ain El Abou, in northern Metn, the

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region where my parents come from. It is there that I feel closest to my heritage, my roots, my… melody.

YOU LIVE IN PARIS BUT VISIT LEBANON FREQUENTLY. WHAT IS THE FIRST THING YOU DO WHEN YOU COME BACK TO BEIRUT? I have no real rituals when I visit; I was born here but moved away when I was very young. Despite never living in Lebanon, I don’t feel I ever really left! I believe this is the chemistry of the place.

Even during the war, we used to spend three or four months here every year; and if the airport was closed, we would come by boat from Larnaca. I can’t thank my parents enough for having done this as I always felt connected to my motherland.

HOW DO YOU DESCRIBE LEBANON TO THOSE WHO ARE NOT FAMILIAR WITH IT? It’s definitely the best country in the world!

MAALOUF’S PICKS LEBANESE RESTAURANT Ilili in New York.

LEBANESE DISH My mother’s tabbouleh.

DESTINATION IN LEBANON Batroun and Ain El Abou.

LEBANESE ARTIST My father; he’s so talented and taught me everything.

PLACE TO CHILL OUT I don’t go out often, but for sunsets I’d say Faqra.

SOUVENIR FROM LEBANON When I was a child, I used to go to drink water from the spring with my cousins and frogs would jump on our shoulders!

14 HOT TOPIC

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OFF-THE-GRID IDEAS FOR THE SEASON Travel expert Pia Abboud shares her selection of unique destinations that showcase Lebanon's many faces.

HIKE IN THE OAK FOREST OF FNAYDEK

Take a walk or enjoy a hike in the heart of Fnaydek’s oak forest. Fall signals a beautiful metamorphosis of colors: the foliage of the giant oaks shifting from green to gold and reddish tones. It is a truly magnificent natural phenomenon and a sight not to be missed. Go on an adventure with Hassan Zakaria (03 593346), a local guide, who will also be pleased to host you at his campsite in Nabi Khaled.

TASTE THE SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES OF TEBNINE Nominated in 2017 as one of the 10 most beautiful villages in Lebanon, Tebnine is a multicultural gem in the South. From its medieval castle to the renovated old souks, it’s a wonderful place to spend the day. Don’t miss out on the local southern specialties such as freekeh and mjadara hamra served at Goody’s Restaurant (07 326275).

lebanontraveler.com

ADMIRE STREET ART IN OUZVILLE In an undervalued and neglected area of Beirut’s southern suburbs you will find yourself surrounded by expressive artwork and modern designs that decorate every wall and forgotten building. Discover one of the capital’s most characterful and inspiring neighborhoods, and connect with the Ouzville community. For a guided walking tour, boat tour or to volunteer, contact Pia Abboud (03 126977).

More online lebanontraveler.com

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STROLL AROUND SOFAR Enjoy an afternoon jog or a stroll in Sofar, Mount Lebanon, and admire the magnificent mountains of Aley. The boulevard of Sofar is revered for its traditional Lebanese houses and its long stretch of trees that undergo a beautiful transformation during fall. Don’t leave without visiting the abandoned train station and the Grand Sofar Hotel.

PICK OLIVES IN DEIR MIMAS Overlooking the Litani River and the Beaufort Castle, the southern town of Deir Mimas will enchant you with its old streets, stone bridges and its superb olive oil. Join the locals during olive picking season, from mid-October until mid-December, and visit the traditional olive presses.

TAKE A ROAD TRIP TO HERMEL If you’re a fan of road trips, you will thoroughly enjoy the ride to Hermel. Witness miles of exposed limestone rock flecked with cedar and juniper trees while driving from Dennieh to Hermel. Be sure to have your camera ready to capture the exceptional view of snow-capped mountains and trees dating back centuries.

PICK MUSHROOMS IN HADATH EL JEBBEH CEDARS FOREST Collect edible mushrooms at the beginning of fall in the Hadath El Jebbeh Cedars Forest and enjoy the taste of delicious mushroom-based dishes at one of the many village restaurants such as Ward Café Trottoir (71 680222).

VISIT THE BELL MAKERS OF BEIT CHABEB Beit Chabeb is famous for its charming red-roof houses and its bell-making history. Visitors to the village can learn about this age-old tradition by taking a tour of the only remaining bell-making workshop in the Middle East, run

by Naffah Naffah (03 575632).

Photos: Pia Abboud

discoverybeyondborders.com lebanontraveler.com

16 READER'S EXPERIENCE

AN AFTERNOON WITH

THE AMBASSADORS We asked the French and Italian ambassadors living in Lebanon to share their experiences and thoughts on the country.

BRUNO FOUCHER FRENCH AMBASSADOR

WHICH IS YOUR FAVORITE REGION IN LEBANON AND WHY? I’ve had the opportunity to visit a large part of Lebanon: all the cities on the coast as well as Bekaa, South Lebanon, the eastern border with Hermel, Ras Baalbeck and Ersal; and I am about to leave for Akkar. There are many beautiful villages nestled in the mountains: Bcharre, Ehden, around Hermel, Beiteddine and Deir Al Qamar, Tebnine and more.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BEST EXPERIENCE? I really like exploring the mountains.

When you visit the mountains, something I always recommend to my friends when they come to Lebanon, you have a better understanding of Lebanon’s history, why people have clung to these reliefs for centuries. The whole history of Lebanon is the consequence of these steep landscapes; which also explain mentalities, diversity and cuisine.

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WHICH HIDDEN GEMS HAVE YOU DISCOVERED? The pyramid of Hermel and the stelae of Nebuchadnezzar on the banks of Nahr El Kalb.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE LEBANESE DISH? There are many dishes I like, including kebbeh in all its forms, hummus, fattoush and, of course, sweets from Tripoli.

WHAT WILL YOU REMEMBER ABOUT YOUR TIME IN LEBANON? It’s not difficult for a French person to bond with the Lebanese people because of the cultural similarities. It’s hard to imagine that when we’re in Beirut there’s a totally different world just two hours away by car, where one finds different communities who are always welcoming.

WHICH RESTAURANT IN LEBANON OFFERS THE BEST FRENCH CUISINE? During Goût de France, a culinary initiative that takes places annually

Lebanon is a small country but immensely diverse around the world on 21 March, I had the opportunity to visit the gastronomic restaurants of Beirut, which are all excellent. I have a particular memory of a fôret noire that was prepared and served to me by a Lebanese pastry chef trained and awarded in France. It was truly delicious.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE LEBANON? Lebanon is a small country but immensely diverse in its landscapes, cultures, etc. It is the combination of these that has made Lebanon what it is today: a country of coexistence. It is a model that must be preserved and one the Lebanese are extremely attached to because of their desire to stay together.

They understand their differences and accept them as they recognize what brings them together is this exceptional country.

More online lebanontraveler.com

MASSIMO MAROTTI ITALIAN AMBASSADOR

WHERE DO YOU ENJOY SPENDING TIME IN LEBANON AND WHY? There are many great places, but I generally end up in two spots; Sporting Club in Ras Beirut, as it is welcoming and beautifully designed, and the Old Port of Byblos, which is so magical.

WHAT HIDDEN GEM HAVE YOU DISCOVERED? I recently saw the magnificent Grand Hotel Sofar. It is a fascinating architectural masterpiece, which has retained its charm. I remember reading about this hotel in a book by Samir Kassir, where people used to spend vacations and live the high life, but I did not realize how beautiful it could be.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR FONDEST MOMENT SO FAR? I experienced a magical moment during the 2018 Baalbeck International Festival when the eclipse of the moon,

the backdrop of Bacchus temple, the performance of a great Lebanese choir, the music of Rossini and Verdi directed

by Father Toufic Maatouk and the enthusiasm of the audience all came together so harmoniously.

WHAT SOUVENIRS WILL YOU TAKE WITH YOU WHEN YOU LEAVE? I will take many precious souvenirs.

Life in Lebanon is intense and there are countless memories that will stay with me; for instance, when my wife and I planted a cedar tree in Shouf and the inauguration of the basement at the Beirut National Museum. I will also remember walking in Lebanon’s beautiful mountains and the spirit of the young people.

WHICH RESTAURANTS IN BEIRUT BEST REFLECT YOUR NATION’S CUISINE? I do not have a favorite one; in many I found myself at home and enjoyed a

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Life in Lebanon is intense and there are countless memories that will stay with me very nice risotto, my favorite dish. We are developing an initiative worldwide to promote Italian cuisine during the month of November. It will be an interesting experience.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE AND DISLIKE ABOUT BEING HERE? I like more than I dislike. The Lebanese people are very hospitable and great at welcoming everyone. I admire the work ethics of many citizens, their spirit and their capacity to go on; I have the impression that they are the backbone of the country. I am concerned about pollution though.

DESCRIBE LEBANON IN THREE WORDS. Captivating, exciting and surprising.

lebanontraveler.com

18 RESPONSIBLE LEBANON

GETTING INTO THE GREEN SCENE

If environmental causes are important to you, show your support by volunteering with these organizations.

GREEN GLASS RECYCLING INITIATIVE LEBANON GGRIL

Launched by Cedar Environmental, GGRIL collects unwanted green and amber glass packaging, mainly used for beer bottles, and repurposes them to make colorful, functional art pieces and tableware, such as water jugs. Since the initiative began five years ago, over 225 tons of glass have been recycled, which equates to around one million bottles. “All proceeds from the sale of these glass items goes back into the stream to provide more work for the glassblowing artisans,” says Cedar Environmental’s Ziad Abi Chaker. “The glassblowers of Sarafand have had more work in one year making GGRIL products than they have had for the last five years combined.”

LIVE LOVE RECYCLE

Live Love Recycle began operating in April 2018, enabling its mobile application users to send their recyclables with a driver to Arcenciel at no fee. “From August 2018 until now, the application has been downloaded over 12,000 times. More than 3,000 people are recycling regularly and that's a very positive sign for us,” says George Bitar, the iniative's founder. “We plan on extending our reach beyond Beirut and expanding the range of items we are able to recycle. There is a recycling factory opening within a year in the Bekaa, one that’s big enough to process recyclables such as glass and batteries. It will be an interesting step forward.”

76 307994, liveloverecycle.tilda.ws

ggrilebanon

CEDAR ENVIRONMENTAL

COMPOST BALADI

Another project is the vertical green wall structure which uses only recycled materials, mainly plastic bags. The organization has recycled hundreds of millions of tons of trash, making it one of the biggest players in Lebanon’s green movement.

“Our mission is to promote the repurposing of organic waste into valuable resources,” says Marc Aoun, the organization's co-founder. “Compost Baladi tailors its solutions to the specific circumstances of each client, abiding by the fundamental law: low tech, low cost and a local approach.”

cedarenv.com,

70 126211, compostbaladi.com

Cedar Environmental specializes in municipal recycling facilities, offering services ranging from dynamic composting (an accelerated version of composting) to material recovery facilities, among many other services. “We’ve also established the two-bag sorting system and we’re working hard to roll out as many street recycling bins as possible across Beirut and Mount Lebanon to facilitate recycling,” says Ziad Abi Chaker, CEO of Cedar Environmental.

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CedarEnvironmental

Studies have shown that 55 percent of household garbage in Lebanon is made up of organic waste, which is one of the easiest types to compost. Enter Compost Baladi, an organization founded in 2017 to provide the tools and knowledge to treat different types of waste and compost efficiently. The organization works from the individual right to municipality level, organizing workshops to raise awareness and teach people how to compost.

More online lebanontraveler.com

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SAVE KFARABIDA

Batroun’s coast is one of the top destinations for beachgoers; but with the waste crisis hitting the shoreline, the youth of Kfarabida are taking it upon themselves to protect the marine life and keep the beaches clean.

“We’ve always worked on raising awareness and organizing cleanups; this is the best way to protect our shores. We tend to focus on working with youngsters, as young as seven or eight, educating them on marine life and biodiversity. We’ve also been trying to work with the municipality to start implementing recycling bins on our shores to encourage people to dispose of their litter properly,” says Clara el Khoury, co-founder of Save Kfarabida. “Our problem stems from two sources: lack of public awareness and lack of supervision from the government.” savekfaraabida

JOUZOUR LOUBNAN

Jouzour Loubnan works on reforesting arid and largely mountainous regions that are often overlooked by other forestation programs due to challenges with extreme weather conditions, lack of surface water, poor soil quality and overgrazing. To date, they’ve planted over 300,000 native trees. Tony Chahine, Jouzour Loubnan’s agricultural engineer, says: “We use science-based experiments that take into account all factors, such as soil type and quality, and precipitation levels to determine which plants should be planted in which area and follow up regularly to make sure they are thriving.” The association also works on empowering communities and individuals through different programs such as their Adopt a Cedar program.

71 124000, jouzourloubnan.org, adoptacedar.org

OPERATION BIG BLUE ASSOCIATION With recent environmental challenges putting pressure on Lebanon’s coastline, Operation Big Blue Association has made it its mission to make sure the beach stays clean and the marine life remains stable.

“After the Lebanese Civil War, we had countless landfills spilling into the sea as well as dead marine life that we were uncovering during every dive,” says Iffat Edriss, president of the association.

Some of Operation Big Blue's biggest achievements include working on policies to prevent the use of plastic bottles on the beach, starting with Ramlet el Bayda beach, as well as providing first aid to endangered marine life such as sea turtles. “We are working on ending the spewing of sewers into the sea, which is easier than people think it is; but we're constantly challenged by the absence of will from the political sphere and a need for greater awareness.”

03 743756,

OperationBigBlue

GREENBERRY BIOGAS

GreeNberry is a company that is pushing another concept of sustainable energy: waste-to-energy. Through their biogas digester, GreeNberry turns waste such as food scraps, animal manure and biomass into a biogas that can be used to generate electricity or heat and a liquid fertilizer that can be used for plants. “By producing our own gas through the digester, we’ve managed to slash our gas bills by 70 percent,” says Ricky Hmouda, founder of GreenNBerry. “We’ve cut down on the cost of waste transportation and solved the organic waste stench issue as well as put an end to stray wildlife ripping through our trash bags and making a mess.”

03 444327,

greenberrybiogas

Photo: Joe Sokhn

lebanontraveler.com

20 IN FOCUS

UNESCO BIOSPHERE

RESERVES Preserving nature, local heritage and traditions, we explore Lebanon’s Jabal Moussa and Shouf Biosphere Reserves with biodiversity conservationist Elsa Sattout.

JABAL MOUSSA Jabal Moussa, recognized as one of the few biodiversity hot spots in Keserwan, is located 40km north of Beirut. Accessible from Ghazir and Nahr Ibrahim, the reserve lies on the western slopes of the Mount Lebanon Chain, where it covers an area of 6,500 hectares and features a number of meandering trails. If you’re seeking adventure, Jabal Moussa’s rugged mountains are perfect for trekking. A wide variety of tree and plant species of Mediterranean origin are to be found within Jabal Moussa’s stunning landscape.

lebanontraveler.com

Enjoy a cultural stroll by walking up the Roman stairs in Mchati and Ghineh and look out for traces of ancient civilizations: the Adonis rock in Ghineh and carvings dating back to Emperor Hadrian (second century A.D.) in Mchati and Broqta. In the area you will also find what remains of some old mountain houses, an abandoned Ottoman settlement comprising a water mill, farms and an olive press by the river in Chouwen, mosaics in a Byzantine church in Ghineh and the Saint George Monastery built on the ruins of a Roman temple.

09 643464/71 944405, jabalmoussa.org

WHERE TO EAT

There are a number of restaurants where one can enjoy traditional Lebanese fare, such as Abou Tony (09 780545/03 518261) in Ghineh or Ashtarout (03 783693) in Ghazir.

WHERE TO SLEEP

For an authentic experience, stay at a guesthouse like Dimitriades Guesthouse (71 307301) in Ghbeleh or Rita Keyrouz Guesthouse (76 532231) in Al Iibre.

More online lebanontraveler.com

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SHOUF A sanctuary for the famous cedar of Lebanon, Shouf Biosphere Reserve is located 50km from Beirut in Maasser El Shouf. Extending across the western and eastern slopes of the Mount Lebanon Chain, the reserve is a haven for nature lovers with its bountiful forests and countless trails that lead up to the highest peaks in Ain Zhalta, Bmohrey and Maasser El Shouf.

Winter is a particularly exciting season, offering visitors the chance to snowshoe and witness cedar trees covered in snow.

The reserve also attracts bird watchers and wildlife enthusiasts who are sometimes lucky enough to spot a wolf or a jungle cat.

05 350250, shoufcedar.org

WHERE TO EAT

You can enjoy traditional meals at Al Challalat (03 387228) in Barouk or Challalat Nabeh Al Safa (03 786180) in Ain Zhalta.

WHERE TO STAY

For an authentic experience, spend the night at a guesthouse:

Ziad Bustani (05 240036/03 633062) and Akram Mahmoud (05 240882/ 03 829102) in Barouk, Beit el Hana (05 350250 /05 350452) in Maasser El Shouf and Houssam El Eid (03 217299) in Ain Zhalta.

Photos: Nidal Majdalani

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22 FOCUS ON

THINGS TO DO IN BKASSINE

Photo: Joe Sokhn

2. ENJOY A MAGNIFICENT HIKE Bkassine (Beit Kassin) is an AramaicSyriac word meaning village of the disappeared. Located 70km from Beirut in the Jezzine District, it is surrounded by splendid views of endless pine forests. We discover more with travel blogger Nadine Chemali.

The Bkassine Side Trail takes hikers on a unique journey.

Departing from Niha Fort, the trail is divided into two parts, each bearing a different level of difficulty

The first stretch, which ends in Bkassine Square, is around eight kilometers long and offers hikers breathtaking views of Wadi Jezzine and the Bisri Valley. The trail takes them along two majestic cliffs, then goes across an Ottoman bridge and around an old water mill. It continues through the old village of Kfartaala, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1956. Taking around four hours to complete, this part of the trail is classified as very difficult and is not to be missed by experienced hikers.

1. RECONNECT WITH NATURE

Bkassine is a charming village which has preserved its natural environment with amazing traditional houses surrounded by the largest pine forest in the Middle East. The forest, which extends over two-and-a-half square kilometers, was classified as a protected area in 1996. It is home to around 168 species of which 65 are medicinal plants.

The second part departs from Bkassine square, passing through the pine forest southwards to Ain el Toghra then heading back north towards Hima Jezzine. This trail is especially enchanting as it offers hikers panoramic views of Saida and the Mediterranean from Ain El Zaarour and El Roummani. The trail ends by joining section 22 of the Lebanon Mountain Trail. It is about 14km long, and is classified as challenging, with 433m of ascent and 615m of descent. It requires around four and a half hours to complete.

To encourage reforestation in the area, Bkassine Municipality built a nursery in 2011 where 20,000 seedlings are produced every year.

For more information about hiking, contact the municipality (07 800580/07 800046) or Joe Harfouche (03 353293).

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Photo: Christian Akhrass

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Photo: Nadine Chemali

3. EXPLORE THE CENTRAL SQUARE 5. TASTE THE LOCAL DELICACIES Unsurprisingly, Bkassine is a well-known producer of pine nuts AND THE SURROUNDING AREA The village is characterized by the charm of its central square where you can find Saint Takla, one of the most beautiful churches in Lebanon, the small souk and red-tiled houses. You can also visit the nearby church of Our Lady of Salvation, built in 1855, and Saint Joseph Monastery.

thanks to its huge pine forest. It is also recognized for its olives and olive oil traditions, with olive presses still operating today.

You can discover some of the finest products, including pine nuts, extra virgin olive oil, pure forest honey, goat labneh and the traditional kishek of Jezzine, at j.Grove (07 800766).

Every September Bkassine celebrates the Saint Takla Festival, which is one of the most popular events in the South. During the festival, the ladies of Bkassine prepare organic homemade mouneh and the municipality organizes a number of exciting events.

Wine enthusiasts will enjoy a trip to Karam Winery (01 370519), which tells the story of two brothers who brought back to life their ancestral vineyards with a unique line of wines. Take a tour with Habib Karam who will welcome you and encourage you sample a selection of the winery’s best.

4. VISIT THE NEARBY SITES

Take advantage of being in the Jezzine District by visiting some of the region’s top sites such as Serhal Palace. Built by Farid Serhal in 1964, the palace fuses elements from around the world to capture various parts of history: Roman, Byzantine, Arab, French, Spanish and Italian Renaissance. Serhal demolished his house in the 60s to create the magnificent art space, and although he passed away before the project was completed, his impressive dedication to the region and extensive collection of antiques lives on. Prior appointments must be made with Joe Harfouche (03 353293) to visit the palace.

The waterfalls of Jezzine are another famous landmark. At 74m high, they are among the highest in Lebanon, earning Jezzine the title of City of Falls. Winter and spring are the best seasons to witness this natural phenomenon so take the road next to the statue of the Virgin Mary, known as Saydet el Maabour, and walk to the base of the falls.

SLEEP

Maison de la Forêt (07 800222/78 828252) offers 25 bungalows and an additional five rooms of various sizes named after trees, fruits and different elements of nature.

Alternatively, experience Bkassine like a local by staying at a guesthouse such as Hello Thea (07 800402/71 397068), Pine Land (07 800146/03 512099) or Maroun & Linda B&B (70 108327). For big groups contact Saint-Joseph Convent (07 800014/03 859734).

EAT

If you’re after a Lebanese meal, Beit El Ghabeh (07 800222/ 78 828252) uses local products to support the region’s producers. If it’s on the menu, taste Layali Bkassine, a superb dessert item. infinitecurl.com lebanontraveler.com

24 HIDDEN GEMS

INCREDIBLE TEMPLES

If these temple walls could speak, they would tell a million stories. We go on an adventure with biodiversity conservationist Elsa Sattout.

JUPITER, VENUS AND BACCHUS BAALBECK

Built by the Romans, the magnificent temples of Baalbeck date back to the first century A.D. The cluster includes three temples: Jupiter, Bacchus and Venus. Baalbeck’s temple of Jupiter was the biggest pagan temple dedicated to the god of the Roman Empire.

The 54 massive granite columns were 30m high: the largest in the classical world.

Honoring the god of wine, the temple of Bacchus is perhaps the most famous of the three and one of the best preserved Roman temples in the world.

The temple of Venus was constructed on a horseshoe-shaped base. Representations of doves and shells are still visible on the structure, which has been taken as evidence that it was dedicated to the Roman goddess.

Photo: Ragheb Ismail

After you’ve visited the site, enjoy sfiha Baalbakieh at Lakkis Rest House (71 666029), Lebanese and Turkish delicacies at Jawhary (08 370240) or traditional Lebanese fare at Casino Ras El Ain (03 364802).

NIHA ZAHLE DISTRICT

A cluster of four temples dating back to the third century can be found in Niha. Dedicated to the worship of gods including the god of thunder and goddess of fertility, the temples are filled with carvings that tell the stories of ancient civilizations. Do not miss visiting this incredible site, which is located amid stunning landscapes of mixed agricultural terraces and farmland.

Stop for lunch in Zahle at Berdawni Restaurant, Casino Arabi (08 821214), Casino Mhanna (08 800364) or Casino Nmeir (08 812822), or in Dhour where you will find the restaurant of Tallet Abou Zeid (08 822020). lebanontraveler.com

Photo: Nidal Majdalani

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ESHMUN SAIDA DISTRICT

Named after the Pheonician god of healing, the temple of Eshmun is located near the entrance of the El Awali River. Built in the seventh century BC, the temple features a wealth of different architectural styles influenced by the first Persian empire as well as Greek and Roman empires.

Olive groves, orchards and the abandoned terraces of Eshmun Valley form part of the surrounding landscape. Visitors to the area can also pass by Joune to see the Castle of Lady Hester Stanhope and stop in Deir El Moukhalles, the Monastery of Saint Savior, which was founded in 1733 and has one of the earliest printers and rare manuscripts.

Enjoy Lebanese mezze at Eshmun Valley Restaurant (07 990428), Tal El Qamar (71 898921) or Istirahat El A'ilat (03 411262) in the valley.

Photo: Ragheb Ismail

FAQRA KFARDEBIAN

Made of rocks from the area, the temples of Adonis and Atargatis stand side by side in Faqra. The temple of Adonis does not rest on a platform as it is partly dug into the rock. A square court with an altar, surrounded by a colonnade, can be found in front of an altar.

Another altar stands in front of the entrance. The temple of Atargatis has an unusual, asymmetrical shape. A round tank can be seen at the entrance, thought to be the work of Christians who had built a church next to the temple and had reused the temple as a baptistery.

Photo: Nidal Majdalani

Nearby you can find a Byzantine church and the tower of Claudius.

The Chabrouh Dam is also within a short drive. A number of authentic Lebanese restaurants can be found in the area including Jalsat Restaurant (01 895970) in Mayrouba and Aand Shaker (09 341800) in Faqra. For fine dining, head to Le Montagnou (03 341441) and Chez Michel (09 300614) in Faqra or a beautiful view of the Chabrouh Dam from Rikky’z (03 120201).

NIHA BATROUN DISTRICT

Emperor Hadrian converted this ancient temple from a Phoenician one to a Roman one circa 117 BC. The ruins are located on a cliff overlooking Hardine, Tannourine and Hadath El Jebbeh as well as the Mediterranean Sea. Visitors to the temple can also visit a number of religious sites in the area such as Saydit Nouh (1880), the Saint George Church and the chapel of Saydit Al Qalaa. In addition, a number of hiking trails can be enjoyed in the Tannourine Nature Reserve and in Hadath El Jebbeh.

Have lunch in one of the nearby villages such as Bassatine El Ossi, where you’ll find Tawahine (03 602945), Challal (03 494376) and Challal Nahr El Jaouz (02 289970). Alternatively, have a quick bite at Snack El Jisr (76 336383). If you’d rather enjoy a picnic, head to the Tannourine Picnic Park (03 242597).

MAQAM EL RABB AKKAR DISTRICT

This striking black basalt temple is made from stones typical to Menjez, a village located on the border with Syria. The temple was dedicated to the goddess of justice Nemesis and is called Beit Jaalouk. The village boasts ancient churches, archaeological sites and landmarks namely Qalaat Felis, megalithic dolmens and the church of Our Lady of the Fort. For lunch and dinner options visit Kobayat, where you’ll find a good selection of snack shops, bakeries and restaurants including Kobayat Country Club (03 621752). lebanontraveler.com

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26 INDOORS

SPECTACULAR ART MUSEUMS

Lebanon has positioned itself as a regional art hub thanks to a rich and vibrant art scene. With the support of the Ministry of Tourism, we explore a few of the country’s museums dedicated to showcasing the work of local and international artists.

BASBOUS MUSEUM RACHANA

Located in the northern village of Rachana, the Basbous Museum showcases the work of Michel, Youssef and Alfred Basbous. It is an openair museum where one can admire seemingly fictional sculptures made of materials such as bronze, wood and marble. The art works are not confined within the museum; some sculptures can be found at the side of the road and in front of houses and in gardens. The Basbous family home, which resembles a mushroom, is also a must-see.

Entrance: Free Hours: Book an appointment (06 720903).

Rachana, Batroun lebanontraveler.com

EMILE HANNOUCHE MUSEUM CHTAURA

Inaugurated in September 2017, the Emile Hannouche Museum was previously a restaurant and casino owned by Emile’s father, Melhem Hannouche.

After befriending a Kuwaiti prince, who introduced him to the world of art, and the Sursock family, who inspired him to collect art pieces, Emile decided to transform his father’s casino into a museum where he could share his precious art collection including over 900 paintings, Japanese prints and unique Melkite oriental icons.

Entrance: Free Hours: Daily from 8 am to 10 pm.

Zahle Highway, Chtaura, 03 380037, emilehannouchemuseum.com

GIBRAN KHALIL GIBRAN MUSEUM BCHARRE

Arguably one of the most well-known Lebanese literary masterminds, Gibran Khalil Gibran’s legacy lives on at his museum in Bcharre, North Lebanon. Set in what was an ancient monastery carved into the rock, the museum showcases the contents of Gibran’s New York studio, his private library, along with manuscripts and around 440 original paintings that have been restored. It is also where he is buried.

Entrance: 8,000 LBP Hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm.

Qadisha Valley, Bcharre, 06 671137, gibrankhalilgibran.org

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MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM (MACAM) BYBLOS

Surrounded by nature, MACAM is the first contemporary art museum in Lebanon dedicated to preserving, documenting and exhibiting art in the country. An independent non-profit society transformed the building, which was once a factory complex, into a dynamic museum in 2013. As a research and teaching institution, it boasts the richest library and archive of art in Lebanon and a unique art educational program for school children. MACAM is highly regarded as a platform for artists, with numerous activities and workshops taking place regularly.

Entrance: 15,000 LBP for adults, 10,000 LBP for under 18s.

Hours: Friday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (March to October) and 10 am to 4:30 pm (November to February).

Group visits during the week can be arranged by prior appointment.

NE W

Aalita, Byblos, 03 271500, macamlebanon.org

SURSOCK MUSEUM BEIRUT

MTEIN MUSEUM OF ARTS MTEIN

Launched in 2013, the Mtein Museum of Arts showcases over 60 works of art donated by Lebanese and foreign artists. The museum was an initiative launched by the municipality with the townspeople of Mtein to restore the town’s old spaces, encourage and preserve its culture and celebrate its rich heritage.

Entrance: Free Hours: 8:30 am to 3 pm on weekdays.

For weekend visits contact the Mtein Municipality (04 296144) or Naim Baroud (03 590861) to arrange an appointment.

Mtein Main Square, Metn

NABU MUSEUM CHEKKA

The newly-opened Nabu Museum in El Heri is home to hundreds of regional artifacts and modern artworks.

Seeking to exhibit the cultural wealth of Lebanon and the region, the museum’s first exhibition, Millennia of Creativity, compares 60 modern artworks with around 400 archaeological pieces from the MENA. The founders intend to hold two to three exhibitions yearly using unseen parts of their personal collections.

Gifted to the people of Beirut by Nicolas Sursock in 1952, the Sursock Museum is a modern and contemporary art museum that is home to over 800 pieces of art

by Lebanese and international artists.

The building itself is a beautiful work of art, blending Venetian and Ottoman architectural elements and featuring exquisite, sweeping staircases.

The permanent collection showcases a variety of genres, including modern art, Japanese engravings and Islamic art.

Entrance: Free; donations are welcome.

Hours: Monday to Friday from 10 am to 6 pm except on Thursday, 12 pm to 9 pm.

Closed on Tuesdays.

Greek Orthodox Archbishopric St., Achrafieh, 01 202001, sursock.museum Entrance: Free Hours: Wednesday to Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm.

El Heri, Batroun, 06 541341/06 541941, nabumuseum.com The Lebanese Ministry of Tourism actively works to promote the country’s cultural and historical treasures through its websites. mot.gov.lb, destinationlebanon.gov.lb lebanontraveler.com

28 CULINARY HERITAGE

THE SOUR TASTE

OF LEBANON When it comes to Lebanese cuisine, we all know how versatile local ingredients can be. Zeinab Jeambey, from the Food Heritage Foundation, explores the specific ingredients that give some of our most notable dishes a distinctly sour taste.

Sour food, in the sense of being tangy, seems to be a favored taste in Lebanon.

Compared to other Mediterranean cuisine Lebanese cuisine stands out for its sourness. A zesty taste in several of our renowned dishes is desired no matter the season, be it a meal, a snack or nibbles to accompany drinks.

Where does the taste for sour food come from? Research tells us that medieval food history and trade has played a major part in this love for sour food and has thus affected our contemporary way of cooking.

Persian influence plays a great role through the use of pomegranate concentrate and yogurt based dishes, while the early trade between the Arabs and East Asia and the Far East, namely India and China, is thought to have brought citrus trees to our shores. This resulted in Lebanon developing citrus fruit agriculture, which is now unfortunately dwindling.

Nonetheless, this distinction from other Mediterranean cuisines is worth noting since it is one of the main elements that lebanontraveler.com

adds to the richness and diversity of our cuisine.

Below are some of the ingredients and techniques that contribute to the zesty tartness of our cuisine.

BITTER ORANGES Of the many citrus fruits cultivated in Lebanon, bitter oranges have a peculiar use in savory dishes. In the winter season, when bitter oranges are abundant, the juice is squeezed out delicately to avoid bringing out the bitterness of the orange peel and is conserved for use in seasoning salads and bean dishes, namely foul moudammas.

SOUR NIBBLES Spring brings one of our most unique nibbles, unripened fruits - plums, almonds and apricots - eaten as snacks with salt and often accompanying a cold drink. These are also often pickled and conserved for consumption with meat dishes or vegetarian dishes in oil.

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UNRIPENED GRAPES Grapes are popular all over the Mediterranean. They are consumed in a number of ways: fresh, juiced, dried or fermented (into vinegar or wine). However, sour grape juice, also known as verjuice, is prepared in early summer and used in the Middle East and North Africa to substitute lemon juice, vinegar and sour pomegranate concentrate.

MULBERRIES In summer, mulberries are eaten fresh, and are juiced and boiled to make our famous rural mulberry syrup. Yet what is not commonly known is that unripened mulberries are also used in Lebanese cuisine.

Unripened fresh mulberries are included in the vegetarian stuffing of fatayer or turnovers to give them a sour taste. When dried, they are ground and conserved to season dishes, much like sumac.

SUMAC Sumac, extracted from the fruit of the Sumac tree, is one of the oldest spices present in our country. It is often added to the seasoning of fattoush and to spice up meat fillings. Sumac has a peculiar tanginess to it and is a main ingredient of the zaatar mix.

SOUR POMEGRANATE Pomegranate is a well-known fruit of the Mediterranean region; yet the sour pomegranate variety is never used in Europe. During fall in Lebanon, sour pomegranate is widely sought after to produce sour pomegranate concentrate, which is added to the dressing of our signature fattoush and tabbouleh salads.

Sour pomegranate seeds are also used to decorate mezze and, along with onions and nuts, make a vegetarian stuffing for many kebbeh dishes. food-heritage.org

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30 CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS

MISBAHA RITUALS Used by numerous religions to mark the repetitions of prayers, chants or devotions, misbaha (prayer beads) are an important part of our Lebanese heritage. We learn more about the two-thousand-year-old tradition.

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“I was 11 years old and it was love at first sight, which is even more surprising given the fact that I had no clue what I was looking at. However, I soon learned that these fascinating objects were prayer beads,” says Najib Takieddine, a Cornell University graduate, lecturer and avid collector of misbaha.

Takieddine has dedicated a lot of time to studying the evolution of misbaha. “The original Islamic misbaha comprises a 99bead string configuration with a single elongated head piece (imam) at the end and dividers (shawahed), separating the beads into sets of 33. The number 99 is significant as the beads help Muslims count and recite the 99 attributes of God,” he explains. Over time, however, the length of the misbaha proved impractical and the number of beads was decreased. “There were two additional versions, namely 66 and 33; so the person using either one for prayer was able to can use the string as needed to arrive at the number 99, which is quite an elegant and fitting solution.”

POPULAR CHOICES As the misbaha is a personal item, it often reflects the individual’s taste and character. “In general, the most popular choices are made of black coral (yusr), amber (kawraba) and koka (koka tree seed). Yusr exists in abundance in the Red Sea. It is a hard, black material, yet soft to touch. One way of verifying its authenticity is exposing it to a bright light and checking if it has a brownish glow,” Takieddine says. Interestingly, elements such as silver are often used to add extra flair to the beads, making them somewhat of a fashion accessory. “It is one reason why many people around the world began collecting misbaha, elevating its status to an objet d’art.”

The second most popular choice is amber, which is priced according to its age, oxidation and weight. Indeed, a single gram can cost as much as 150 USD. “This substance is mainly found around the Baltic Sea. The resin, which later transforms into amber, comes from the different pine trees that used to grow there. The age of a misbaha of this kind is generally 15-20 million years. The other major element taken into account when estimating the materialistic value of a piece is how much the beads themselves have oxidized, which occurs when natural

In general, the more transparent the amber, the less expensive it is

31

more transparent the amber, the less expensive it is. The best way to find out if a piece of amber is genuine is to immerse it in salt water, which would cause it to float,” Takieddine explains.

The third type of misbaha popular in Lebanon is made of red coral (merjan) and is primarily priced depending on how light or dark its color is, the latter being more expensive. It comes in numerous varieties, the primary called ox blood. Takieddine remarks, “Because the material is quite heavy, fragile and rather expensive, it has become a more suitable accessory for women. The type of coral used, found predominantly in southern Italy and Tunisia, is becoming increasingly scarce; that’s why in some countries it is now forbidden to sell or import it.”

MISBAHA TRADERS body oils from the hand interact with the amber. Furthermore, this process alters the amber beads from translucent to opaque. Based on that, the misbaha, which has beads dating back 15 million years, could be 15 years old based on when it was fashioned. On the one hand, the higher the oxidization the more value it acquires yet the more brittle it becomes. That is why when it comes to collectors, an expiration date of sorts is set on the misbaha after which time it is either safely tucked away or put on display. This is necessary because in case it falls some of the beads, which may be irreplaceable, will fracture rendering the misbaha useless. In general, the

Whether you are an expert or a novice, Takieddine warns that technology today can quite accurately emulate just about any kind of material and buyers do not have access to any labs that could verify the misbaha as authentic. “That is one of the lessons I have learned the hard way; yet I was fortunate to have met two of Lebanon’s most reputable traders whom I trust and highly recommend. Walid Nader operates out of Hamra and Toufic Abdul Wahad has a store in Achrafieh. If you do not find what you are looking for then I am fairly certain they can acquire it for you,” says Takieddine.

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32 THE GREAT ESCAPE

SAGHBINE, BEKAA

“I was mesmerized by the reflection of the sky in the stream and the surrounding green meadows.”

By Rami Rizk, rami_rizk89

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34 OUTDOOR ACTION

Pump it up Just because the weather’s cooling down, that doesn’t mean you should too.

We teamed up with Milo Daou, triathlon champion, to learn more about what you can get up to during the months ahead.

Photo: Wissam Moussa

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SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING

This one’s a given. With incredible mountain chains that run down the spine of the country, it’s no secret that Lebanon is a sought-after ski destination with countless resorts up and down the country (see page 52).

“Considering we are in the Middle East, we are lucky to be able to ski and snowboard,” Daou muses. “That alone makes this sport special in Lebanon.”

TIPS You don’t need to buy gear unless you plan on taking up skiing and/or snowboarding seriously. Rent your equipment from the resorts and learn the basics with a professional instructor.

Contact Republic of Snowboarding (81 292634) or Ski Leb (70 103222) for help renting equipment or for coaching.

SNOWSHOEING

Take your hiking up a notch by going snowshoeing. This physically demanding sport is a great way to experience the beauty and calm of Lebanon’s snow-capped mountains.

Daou states: “Extreme cold weather – along with the breathtaking views of the mountains all covered in snow – make snowshoeing an exceptional activity to add to your winter bucket list.”

TIPS The higher you go the more virgin the snow, but start with well-known places before you get adventurous.

Buy waterproof, professional gear and keep your GPS on hand.

Join a snowshoeing event organized

by Vamos Todos (03 917190), Dale Corazon (70 986118) or Footprints Nature Club (03 876112).

HIKING

Hiking is an activity for all seasons; there’s no denying it. That being said, some parts of the country come to life during winter such as the Balou Balaa sinkhole in Tannourine and the Jezzine Waterfall.

Daou says: “I prefer hiking at high altitudes in places like Cedars and Tannourine.”

TIPS The best way to get started is by joining organized trips with hiking experts (see page 65). Once you feel more confident, you can push yourself with more advanced hikes.

Buy good gear (insulated clothing is crucial for the cold weather) and start by exploring the beautiful Lebanese Mountain Trail (lebanonorg.com).

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CYCLING

Although cycling is more commonly thought of as a summer sport, it can be enjoyed during the winter provided you take the right precautions.

“Riding a bike is a stress reliever and a great way to discover new places,” says Daou. “Don’t be afraid to be adventurous.

Everyone can ride a bike, so it’s easy to start. After that, the more you train, the further you can go.”

TIPS The most trivial adjustment would be to wear insulated clothing to keep warm.

Fully inflating your tires can also be counterintuitive; so make sure you take into account all factors and adjust your tire pressure accordingly.

Cycle along the Batroun Coastal Road with Routes (76 338762). Rent your equipment from Colonel Beer Brewery (03 743543).

PARAGLIDING

If you think about it, paragliding in winter is much more enjoyable thanks to lower temperature, gentle breezes and fresher weather.

This winter, take the leap and try this adrenaline-pumping sport.

“There’s no greater sensation than the magical feeling of flying free like a bird,” Milo says. “It’s an amazing experience, which you can try in several locations: Cedars, Jounieh and Miziara for example.”

TIPS Book a tandem flight with an expert and just go for it!

Take a trip with Daou’s paragliding club, LiveLoveParagliding (71 326039). Alternatively, you can go paragliding with Club Thermique (03 435524) or Exit to Nature (03 559992).

Photo: Christina Nercessian

milo_daou lebanontraveler.com

36 DESIGN IN LEBANON

FEMALE FORCES Proving that Lebanon’s creative scene is stronger than ever, we profile three women from the world of design, jewelry and fashion who are pushing the boundaries.

I like working with local craftspeople because it gives my work a touch of local identity

KAREN CHEKERDJIAN

Lebanese interior designer Karen Chekerdjian spent many years abroad honing her designs before returning to open her Beirut studio in 2000. Since then, the studio has evolved into a conceptual think-tank, dedicated to exploring new ideas in design.

HOW DID MOVING BACK TO LEBANON AFFECT YOUR APPROACH TO DESIGN? When I was in Italy I used to work with companies that would develop the products for me. They were generally items produced in large quantities so the approach was always very industrial with scale in mind.

When I came back in 2000 it took me two years to understand how to adapt. I was part of the first generation of designers in the country and we had no clue what to do. There was no furniture industry and we were on our own.

I had to start thinking differently and I decided to work with the only workforce I found: local craftspeople. Doing this changed my approach to design: I had to find the solutions; I had to sell limited editions; and I had to be my own producer.

WHAT DEFINES A KAREN CHEKERDJIAN PRODUCT? No cheating, which means a lot. Being true to myself, to my culture and to my lebanontraveler.com

personality, and always using materials that are noble. There’s also no hiding; the underneath of every piece must be as beautiful as the top.

DO YOU DRAW INSPIRATION FROM LEBANON? Inspiration is a word I don’t like. For an exhibition two years ago in Paris at IMA, I used the word Respiration because I believe that my work comes from it; it comes when I need to breathe.

For sure I’m influenced by my environment but indirectly. I like working with local craftspeople because it gives my work a touch of local identity.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR DESIGNS FOR MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ. We started the project 10 years ago and the boutique opened a year later in the Beirut Port area, where I also had my showroom. Rabih had asked me to design his boutique in Paris and I promised him that if he ever opened one in Beirut I would take on the project.

I designed his first showroom as a transformable space. I wanted to give Rabih the possibility to change and add things over time, which is exactly what he did. His last transformation was to add a fountain in the middle of the space and I had luckily planned the water supply from the very start! karenchekerdjian.com

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I create jewelry that has a story women can connect to

NADA G

Lebanese jewelry designer Nada Ghazal, the woman behind the eye-catching adornments of Nada G Jewelry, has been creating modern masterpieces with a touch of local heritage for 15 years.

WHAT MADE YOU GO INTO JEWELRY DESIGN? My love for artisanship began at the age of six when my grandmother unveiled her intricate needlework to me. I wanted to share my art and my passion with the rest of the world.

When I first started designing jewelry it wasn’t only because I was passionate about it; it was because the jewelry market in the region was saturated with either mass production or very classical pieces and we had very few brands that modern women could identify with. I aspired to create a unique brand for global women seeking jewelry that reflects their individuality.

WHAT DO YOU HOPE YOUR PIECES SYMBOLIZE FOR THE WEARER? The best part about being a jeweler is translating my emotions into timeless pieces of jewelry that awaken emotions in others; so I create jewelry that has a story women can connect to.

ARE ANY OF YOUR COLLECTIONS INSPIRED

BY LEBANON? I am touched by everything I see and

everyone I meet, so yes, Lebanon has inspired me to create the Matrix, Blat Beirut and Khaizaran collections.

WHAT’S SPECIAL ABOUT THE BLAT BEIRUT COLLECTION? Blat Beirut is inspired by the gorgeous designs in tiles that grace period homes found in the city.

During my childhood we were forced to stay indoors during the winter. Whereas kids today use their tablets and play video games, we used to look at the ground and use the floor tiles to play hopscotch, moving across the room on our tiptoes. Those memories are forever etched in my mind and now I’ve printed them on rings and cufflinks.

The collection is available in 18-carat yellow, white or pink gold and features various patterns, including flowers, hearts, stars and geometric shapes.

WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM YOUR NEXT COLLECTION? We have just released our first men’s line, Solid Gold Men, to compliment the man of today. It consists of five different collections aiming to attract every man, whether he is classical, casual or edgy.

Solid Gold Men will also attract women, as the collection is unisex. nadag.com

lebanontraveler.com

38 DESIGN IN LEBANON

I am passionate about creating beautiful pieces and materials that are delicately crafted

KAROLINE LANG

Lebanese fashion house Karoline Lang has been grabbing headlines with its sleek, minimalist look and clean-cut lines. Karine Tawil, the founder, explains the essence of the brand.

HOW DID YOU START KAROLINE LANG? After completing my degree in business administration at AUB, I moved to Milan to pursue my passion, where I completed my Master’s in fashion marketing.

It wasn’t long after completing an internship in product development at the Italian luxury fashion house Marni that I enrolled in a degree program in design and management at L’Institut Francais de la Mode, and I began working with many designers in Paris and New York. I eventually decided to move back to Lebanon in 2010 and launch my own collection.

is to magnify, enhance and respect the shape of the woman. My aim is to create elegant and timeless pieces.

WHAT INSPIRES YOUR DESIGNS? The woman; it always starts and ends with the woman. I am passionate about creating beautiful pieces and materials that are delicately crafted.

That’s what I love most about my work.

YOU’RE ALREADY SUCCESSFUL IN PARIS AND ELSEWHERE. HOW DO YOU PLAN TO EXPAND YOUR BRAND IN LEBANON? Our main showroom is still in Beirut and so are our workshops. The brand was born in Beirut and is still loyal to its Lebanese clients.

DURING BAALBECK INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL’S CINE CONCERT FOR NADINE LABAKI, THE MUSICIANS WORE YOUR DESIGNS. TELL US ABOUT THOSE DRESSES.

WHAT ARE THE CHARACTERISTICS OF A KAROLINE LANG CREATION? The combination of cutting techniques, the quality of the finishing and the creative blend of luxurious fabrics and textures makes the brand unique.

We chose the classical Karoline Lang look for this magnificent occasion. The idea was to show an effortless elegance that has an antique feel and a modern look. Those are the values that depict the Karoline Lang brand.

The pieces are created to accentuate a woman’s inner beauty, highlighting the silhouette, with bold architectural lines, fabric manipulation and a mixture of materials.

WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FOR THE COMING WINTER COLLECTION? The winter collection is extremely special for me as it has a personal touch very dear to my heart. We will be revealing the campaign soon so stay tuned!

The garments that I create are free from ornamentation. The form always follows the function. My main responsibility lebanontraveler.com

karolinelang.com

ADVERTORIAL

YAD

SUPPORTING AGE-OLD TRADITIONS

The YAD collection is an assortment of traditional Lebanese handicrafts that were developed by the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) in partnership with the Ministry of Industry with the aim of supporting a number of local artisans across Lebanon.

Funded by the Austrian Federal Ministry for Europe, Integration, and Foreign Affairs within the framework of the UNIDO project “Supporting Host Communities in Lebanon Affected by the High Influx of Syrian Refugees,” the project has established a way to create a sustainable better life for the involved families and communities coming from remote rural areas and/or underprivileged backgrounds. Work has been done hand in hand with artisans and various local producers to upgrade the process of production and introduce contemporary art to the existing lines.

“We are helping artisanal businesses to step out of their comfort zones and modernize their crafts, which are usually known for their traditional and conservative models,” says UNIDO project coordinator Nada Barakat.

The Collection features handmade products such as natural soap, cutlery from Jezzine, tableware and home decoration items that include the art of tulle-bi-telli, or metal thread embroidery, otherwise known as tark el fouda in Arabic. The pieces combine elegance and originality with hundreds of years of tradition and culture. yadcrafts.com

40 ICONIC PLACES

FROZEN

IN TIME

DAHR AL BAIDAR TRAIN STATION

In 1891 the Ottoman Empire granted a French company permission to build the first railway in the Middle East; and in 1895 the first train completed its nine-hour 147km journey from Mar Mikhael railway station to Damascus, stopping in Hadath, Aley, Sofar and Dahr Al Baidar, among other places. The network expanded in 1906 to connect Rayak to Homs, Hama and Aleppo.

However, due to the onset of the Lebanese Civil War in 1975, many stations were damaged and the entire network eventually came to a halt. lebanontraveler.com

You don’t have to venture far to find evidence of Lebanon’s glorious past.

Nidal Majdalani takes us on a tour of five abandoned buildings in Mount Lebanon that will blow your mind.

GRAND SOFAR HOTEL AND CASINO

The Sursock family built the Grand Sofar Hotel in 1892 in a prime spot facing Sofar’s train station. Overlooking Hammana and La Martine Valley, the hotel was a popular summer destination thanks to the cool weather, fresh air and beautiful scenery. Besides attracting royalty, high society figures and artists, the Grand Sofar was also well known for opening the first casino in the Middle East and for hosting extravagant parties.

The property closed during the Civil War but reopened in September 2018 when British artist Tom Young launched an exhibition of forty of his paintings, which paid homage to the Grand Sofar’s magical past.

It is now under restoration with plans to transform the building into a permanent cultural landmark.

More online lebanontraveler.com

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VILLA DONNA MARIA SURSOCK

Built in 1909 by Alfred Bey Sursock as a gift to his wife, Donna Maria Teresa Serra, the villa looks like a fairytale castle complete with turrets. It is located above the municipality building in Sofar on a hill overlooking the old Damascus Road.

Although Villa Donna Maria suffered damage during the Civil War, some restoration work has begun and its spectacular garden is now used as a venue for weddings and parties.

KFAR AAMAY SILK FACTORY

Forming part of the Aley district, the village of Kfar Aamay was once home to no fewer than seven silk factories. Most were destroyed during times of conflict and this particular factory, owned by the Assaf family, was abandoned around 1914. It has since been partially renovated from the inside for personal use by the descandants of the family.

GRAND ALEY HOTEL

Also known as the Gebeily Hotel, the Grand Aley was built by a wealthy family from Beirut in 1926 on a hill overlooking the main road of the city of Aley in Mount Lebanon. The hotel was highly regarded for hosting lively parties, gambling, exclusive fashion shows and many other events, which attracted people like Farid Al Atrash and Umm Kulthum. It was also renowned for serving superb French cuisine.

During World War Two, however, it became a military base after which it reopened its doors only to be closed again with the onset of the Lebanese Civil War in 1975.

Photos: Nidal Majdalani

nidal.majdalani

lebanontraveler.com

42 REGION THROUGH AN ARTIST’S EYES

NADIM KARAM: FROM DAROUN TO DREAMSCAPES Lebanese architect and artist Nadim Karam has been wowing audiences around the world with his sculptures and installations. But despite his international fame, it is Karam’s childhood summer home in Daroun, Keserwan, which continues to influence his creative output.

“My cousins and I used to play outdoors a lot in Daroun, where we would build those temporary tent-like structures with pillars,” Karam recounts. “My first sculpture was a stone hand; another was a face I spent the whole summer carving, something I haven’t done recently. They were very early works with some odd proportions; they were not perfect at the time, but I was happy with them.”

Surrounded by nature and beautiful sunsets in the mountains, Karam’s early memories are deeply nostalgic and bittersweet.

“We had lots of free time in the mountains and that’s where creativity plays its part,” he says. “We used to follow butterflies and pick flowers, just like all the other children in the village; but at that time my father got sick with cancer. While I have memories of a childhood full of joy, I also remember tougher moments.”

lebanontraveler.com

After graduating from the American University of Beirut with a degree in architecture, Karam moved to Japan to pursue his PhD at Tokyo University before returning to Lebanon to create his Beirutbased urban art project company, Atelier Hapsitus, in 1996.

Since then, his designs have graced the bustling streets of cities such as Beirut, Prague, London, Tokyo, Singapore and Melbourne. With every city project, Karam tries to create a connection between his artwork and those who view it, capturing a precious moment in time. “It’s a dream that should be shared and I always say that we go to work from eight to five and it becomes monotonous,” he muses. “We need something on the way that takes us out of this monotony and sculptures in a city and the relationship between them allows for this moment of difference. Even if it’s just

a second that makes you smile or dream, it’s important and I give everything when I embark on a project for a city.”

Capturing the realm of possibility with grand structures often serving more than just an aesthetic purpose is key to Karam’s work, evidenced in his 2006 10-sculpture installation on Melbourne’s Sandridge Bridge. Known as The Travellers, the sculptures move across the bridge three times a day, depicting the story of Australia’s immigrants while creating an urban clock in the city.

Those familiar with Karam’s work will have noticed the elephant motif crop up in several projects, such as the Trio Elephants in Paris and the Father Flower Elephant, shown at London’s Royal College of Art in 2011. Karam admits that the mammal represents hope and family, and is a symbol of things to come.

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“I recently worked on a project in Lagos, Nigeria, called Elephant City. There is a whole community living inside the body of an elephant; it’s about 150 meters high,” he says.

Each project acts as a building block of experience for Karam, with new challenges to overcome. His latest project was Kuwait’s Sheikh Abdullah Al Salem Cultural Centre’s six museums.

“Usually the most recent project is the one that is most satisfying because it takes a lot from the previous project and you grow with each one,” he shares. “There are six museums all created by the same architectural office and when you’re going through the spine you can’t tell which is which. They wanted an identity for each thing so I came up with different sculptures explaining the history of Kuwait. They’re colored, 12 meters high and

really define and reflect whatever is inside each museum.”

In September 2018, Karam opened a private museum and work studio in Daroun called A.MUSE.UM. The working studio, which he refers to as an “inverted space,” is nestled inside a 120-year-old traditional Lebanese house that Karam purchased 10 years ago.

The MUSE is a culmination of art and architecture, and it’s a starting point for many surprises “I spend all summer up there; I needed a place to create, paint, write and think so I created the MUSE,” Karam explains.

“I integrated the landscape so the roof of the MUSE brings back the terraces

43

that used to exist while keeping the house as the dominant object. It’s a full architectural project that means a lot to me, a place where paintings and sculptures are exhibited,” he adds.

“The MUSE is a culmination of art and architecture, and it’s a starting point for many surprises.”

In parallel, Karam is focused on several urban projects abroad, admitting that it’s important to take the spirit of Lebanon with him wherever he goes.

“I always bring a part of my Lebanese background to the table. The story I give to a city comes from the streets of Beirut. This Lebanese identity is reflected in the sense that it’s me and I always work from Beirut and then go all over the world,” Karam says.

01 615374, nadimkaram.com

lebanontraveler.com

44 RELIGIOUS TOURISM

NEW LANDMARKS

IN LEBANON Religious anthropologist Nour Farra-Haddad takes us on a trip to two of Lebanon’s newest pilgrimage sites: the Ijdabra Cross in rural Batroun and the Rosary of Lebanon project in Deir El Ahmar, Bekaa Valley.

IJDABRA CROSS AND THE CITY OF PEACE THE TALLEST INHABITED CROSS IN THE WORLD Covering an area of 50,000sqm, the City of Peace project in Ijdabra, rural Batroun, was launched in 2015. Part of the project includes the construction of the largest inhabited cross in the world, measuring 55m in height. At 48m, the building will house a church with a capacity of 200 people. Visitors will be able to reach the top of the structure by elevator.

Four key dimensions define the project: social, economic, environmental and religious. The land will be divided into a section for prayers and religious tourism, a youth camping area with 25,000sqm of recreational land, a lebanontraveler.com

forest with hiking trails and leisure and meditation areas, and a building where rural products such as debs are produced and sold.

The latter two sections were inaugurated in May 2018.

The objective of the project is to attract thousands of visitors and to provide job opportunities by creating an economic dynamic in the area. It also aims to preach a culture of peace and dialogue.

Roads are being developed to allow easy access to the City of Peace and the official inauguration of the site is expected to take place in 2019.

VISITING THE SURROUNDING AREA From Ijdabra you can continue to Ibrine to visit the Deir El Ayleh El Moukassah Monastery (Sanctuary of the Patriarch Elias El Howayek) and then to Bejderfel to visit Saint Bandileymoun Church. You can then drive to Kfifane, where you will find the Monastery of Saints Cyprian and Justina (Mar Cyprianos wa Justina), the Sanctuary of Saint Hardini and the beatified Estephan Nehme.

Alternatively, you can head towards Kfarhay to wander around the Saint John Maron Monastery and continue onto Tannourine or Douma.

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THE ROSARY OF LEBANON IN DEIR EL AHMAR THE BIGGEST ROSARY IN THE WORLD Deir El Ahmar is a village in Bekaa located just 15km northwest of Baalbeck. A religious project is underway to construct a huge concrete rosary, the largest in the world. The site of the rosary, which can be found near the main road that runs between Deir El Ahmar and Beshouat, is on a piece of land owned by the Lebanese Maronite Order on which a convent was built in 2006 and the rosary project was announced in 2011.

The Rosary of Lebanon measures 600m in length and is made up of 59 illuminated beads: six Our Fathers for confession and 53 Hail Marys for prayer and contemplation.

It leads to the cross of the resurrection and to a large amphitheater for prayer and outdoor celebrations. A space under the cross is dedicated to the contemplation of the Blessed Sacrament.

VISITING THE SURROUNDING AREA Deir El Ahmar has around 14 churches, including Mar Youssef (Saint Joseph), Saydet El Z’our and Mar Yohanna (Saint John). Just behind Deir El Ahmar is the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Beshouat (Saydet Beshouat).

It has been a site of pilgrimage for a long time where many miracles, attributed to the Virgin Mary, are reported. It is now a beautiful sanctuary with two churches: the old church with the statue of the Virgin and the stone said to be where miracles take place, and the beautiful new church.

The old monastery of Mar Saba and a historic spring, Ain El Dayaa, can also be found in Beshouat as well as a number of caves and a selection of restaurants serving delicious Lebanese fare to visitors.

Continue your way after Beshouat to visit the Barqa area, famous for its juniper forest.

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HOLY LEBANON

LEBANON’S FIRST RELIGIOUS TOURISM APP Holy Lebanon is a travel e-guide promoting religious-based tourism and supporting the sustainable development of local communities across the country.

Introducing Lebanon as an attractive destination full of interesting sites to discover, the guide lists thousands of religious attractions, rituals and events, as well as names and details of service providers.

Embrace Lebanon’s religious diversity and take advantage of this practical and comprehensive tool by downloading the free application on the AppStore or Googleplay. lebanontraveler.com

YOUR WINTER STARTS HERE.

TURN THE PAGE TO DISCOVER

NIGHTLIFE • CAFES • SKI RESORTS Photo: Ragheb Ismail

48 WINTER GUIDE

BEIRUT’S

BEST NIGHT SPOTS We all know that Beirut is a sleepless city; but where does everyone go after dark?

Amber Consulting points us in the right direction.

Kiss Proof

THE CLASSICS

Although Monot Street in Achrafieh has experienced its ups and downs, Pacifico (01 204446) has managed to continuously attract customers with its cool Latin vibes and consistent level of service.

The saying goes that “Paris is always a good idea,” but if you don’t have the time to fly, you can simply head to Dragonfly (71 127773) on Gouraud Street in Gemmayze, where you’re guaranteed a Parisian-esque experience.

tunnel bar that really stands out. Head up in the funky elevator and enjoy the jazz, funk and RnB beats late into the night.

Set in the domed cellar of a 1930s home, Torino Express (03 611101) was among the first bars to open in Gemmayze. With a seated capacity of just 18 people, it is an authentic bar where you can rub shoulders with artists, musicians and journalists.

Some call it hip, while others call it chilled. What’s for sure is that Internazionale (70 850291) remains one of the most visited bars in Mar Mikhael.

Café by day and bar at night, this place is perfect for those seeking a laid-back vibe.

Abou Elie (70 918821) was once an invitation-only bar; but now it is open to all. Set on the ground floor of the Yacoubian building in Caracas, Hamra, its revolutionary spirit is palpable; you only need to see the portraits of Che Guevara and Lenin at the entrance to know that’s a fact.

Achrafieh’s hidden gem Centrale (03 915925) is still serving food and cocktails of the same quality as when it opened in 2001. Everything about this place is special; but it is Centrale’s suspended

Another hidden classic in Hamra is Blue Note Café (01 743857). Having recently celebrated its 30th anniversary, this popular jazz bar is a favorite among celebrities, politicians and diplomats.

lebanontraveler.com

Centrale

Pacifico

More online lebanontraveler.com

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Vyvyans

ARTISANAL BARS

Mar Mikhael Voted 27th in Time’s 50 Best Cocktail Bars in the World list, Central Station (71 736737) is a beautifully designed bar serving innovative cocktails.

Around the corner you’ll find Anise (70 977926), a creative cocktail bar specializing in homemade arak produced from vines around the country.

Vyvyan’s (01 567040) is not only famous for its artisanal cocktails but also for its friendly staff and funky music.

For something a little more upscale (and a little different) try Mothershucker (71 700111), Beirut’s much-loved oyster and gin bar. With its impressive cocktail menu and seafood selection, you may find yourself skipping the after party.

Badaro Kissproof (01 382992), the sister bar of Vyvyan’s, is a hip café/bar where you can kick back as the DJ spins the coolest tracks.

Take a trip back in time at Villa Badaro (03 771844). Oozing with charm, this beautiful home is the perfect place to relax and enjoy a drink with friends.

Hamra Discover Ferdinand (01 355955) this winter.

At this cozy bar you will be served mouthwatering cocktails and delicious food. Don’t miss their Ferdi Burger.

Located in the heart of Hamra is a two-story rustic bar called Ales & Tales (70 151328).

Here you can sip on an impressive array of delicious drinks and choose from a British and Lebanese food menu.

UNTIL LATE

The adventure begins the minute you step into the massive steel elevator taking you to the roof of The Grand Factory (03 703371). A former industrial site, this unconventional nightclub hosts the hottest local and international DJs and artists. Inside you’ll find a secret door to Reunion, an underground club within The Grand Factory famous for its alternative music. Soul Kitchen is also another room, the venue’s most intimate space featuring soul, jazz, dub-step, world music and even no music at all!

The talk of town is the newly-opened Ballroom Blitz (76 999334), boasting three rooms to satisfy different tastes: the lobby, for having your first drink, the ballroom, which is the main and largest room, and the goldroom, a studio-like getaway dedicated to electronic music.

UPSCALE

If you are looking for an experience that fills your heart and nourishes your soul then SAX (70 707005) in the Beirut Souks is the place to be. Get ready to groove away as live bands take to the stage at this hot spot.

Set on the top floor of an industrial building in the urban port district of Karantina, Discotek (81 706030) throws the hottest parties in town with its spacious dance floor and rotating disco ball.

Inspired by the port-market experience, Bar du Port is a bistro bar serving cocktails, select liqueurs and international wines. You can also expect live music and DJs. Bread Republic (01 201520) is a charming Boho-chic establishment in Achrafieh. The vintage wine cellar and bar perfectly complements the hipstercool dining area, where you can enjoy a freshly baked wood fire oven pizza.

Abou Elie

Founded by the Elefteriades brothers in the early 2000s, Music Hall (01 371236/ 01 361236) is a classy theatre-style venue.

Witness musical acts from around the globe, ranging from Lebanese to opera, and prepare for a night of endless dancing.

Discotek

amber-consulting.com lebanontraveler.com

50 WINTER GUIDE

COZY 10 CAFES

Keeping you warm this winter, Taste & Flavors magazine gives us its hottest café picks in Beirut.

BN COFFEE BAR

This coffee bar promises a warm welcome as well as a selection of top-quality coffee from around the world.

What’s special? The Ethiopian Gugi light roast is a must for lovers of specialty coffee.

Gouraud St., Gemmayze, 03 111967 Home Sweet Home

Riwaq

CAFÉ EM NAZIH

If you’re looking for somewhere simple but full of character, head to Café Em Nazih in Gemmayze. Tucked away in an alley, it’s a great spot to enjoy a traditional coffee or a nofrills Lebanese dinner.

What’s special? The live music and authentic Lebanese food.

Saifi Urban Gardens, Pasteur St., Gemmayze, 76 711466

Sip

NE W

CAFÉ YOUNES

A specialty coffee roaster since 1935, head to the Hamra branch of the iconic Café Younes to experience the exceptional aroma of coffee and some truly unique blends.

What’s special? The Marjeouini blend remains one of their most popular, so don’t leave without trying it.

Neemat Yafet St., Hamra, 01 347531

lebanontraveler.com

BN Coffee Bar

Patchi Café

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CANDYFORNIA CAFÉ

A fun and vibrant choice for coffee and cake with friends, Candyfornia Café is the first Kawaii-style coffee shop and eatery that boasts a candy-colored aesthetic design.

CANTINA SOCIALE

A self-service wine bar, restaurant and café, Cantina Sociale is a popular hangout whatever the time of day. Whether you’re on a first date or meeting up with friends, you’ll love the chilled-out ambience.

What’s special? Besides the healthy salads and smoothies, you can buy collectibles and other knick-knacks from LA and Tokyo.

What’s special? Apart from the friendly service, the apple salad, avocado toast and brownie.

Monot St., Saifi, 01 333820

Independence St., Achrafieh, 01 334714

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HOME SWEET HOME

Guaranteed to make you feel warm and fuzzy inside, Home Sweet Home is a wholesome café, eatery and store.

What’s special? Great coffee, Sunday brunch and an extensive day and night menu.

Alexander Fleming St., Mar Mikhael, 01 566656

KALEI COFFEE CO.

Nestled in a traditional, century-old Lebanese house, Kalei is a fair trade micro-roastery serving specialty coffee and tasty homemade dishes.

What’s special? The egg awarma is a must.

Off Qobayat St., Mar Mikhael, 03 780342

PATCHI CAFE

Chocolate is a lifestyle at Patchi Café. Discover delicious cakes, macarons and other desserts, and wind down with a tasty hot chocolate.

Café Younes

What’s special? Be sure to taste the Cabosse Signature, Les Granités and, of course, the fabulous chocolates.

ABC Verdun, 01 804886

RIWAQ

Candyfornia Café

This casual café is a favorite among Beirut’s arty crowd. Expect a cool vibe, cozy work area and delicious coffee.

What’s special? The eclectic crowd and live music nights.

Kalei Coffee Co.

Assaad Rustom St., Mar Mikhael, 81 715656

SIP

With exposed vintage walls, a charming interior and a lovely terrace, Sip is a fantastic place to unwind and enjoy a of specialty coffee.

What’s special? The eye-catching décor, Ethiopian single origin coffee and carrot cake.

Gouraud St., Gemmayze, 01 567569 Cantina Sociale

Café Em Nazih

tasteandflavors.com

lebanontraveler.com

52 WINTER GUIDE

ON THE SLOPES CEDARS

A nature lover’s dream of green trees covered in endless layers of white, the Cedars resort, located in North Lebanon, differs from its counterparts by offering an extended skiing season and altitudes higher than any other resort.

EAT Boasting one of the best views over Bcharre, Le Chatel (71/76 555829) offers a wide choice of cuisines including Lebanese, Italian, American and French. Nearby in Le Cedrus Hotel is Le Pichet (06 678777/70 413777), a cozy restaurant serving French and Italian food. Grab a seat next to the fireplace for an unforgettable romantic winter getaway.

SLEEP There are countless hotels overlooking the mountains where you can enjoy a good night’s rest. Cedars Palace (06 678190), Le Cedrus Suites Hotel (06 678777) and Le Notre Hotel and Resort (06 678138) are some of the four-star properties that lie within a short distance of the slopes.

SEE Besides the breathtaking mountain views, the slopes are an approximate 10-minute drive from the renowned Cedars of God (Bcharre) Nature Reserve. You can also visit the Gibran Khalil Gibran museum nearby.

Refer to page 26 for more information.

lebanontraveler.com

Winter promises to transform Lebanon’s majestic mountains into snow-clad havens for families and thrill seekers. With countless ski slopes, resorts and restaurants, travel enthusiast Josiane Atallah shares her top ski destinations for you to plan an exceptional winter adventure.

FAQRA

ZAAROUR

EAT Located on the main street, Blackrock Lodge (79 009199) is a great steak restaurant.

Alternatively, head to Blaze (71 855519/ 09 341144) for a wide selection of Lebanese, American and French dishes, best enjoyed by the fireplace.

EAT Koukh el Sabaya (03 658734) is a must if you fancy something savory on your way to the Zaarour slopes. With countless saj options to keep you warm during the winter months, you will certainly leave this place wanting more.

You can also find many Lebanese and International restaurants in the region like Chez Chakour (04 295153) and Qasr Al Bouhayra (04 296200).

Situated in Mount Lebanon, Faqra is unique for its remarkable monuments that have withstood the test of time. Faqra Resort, known as Faqra Club, is a private ski resort known for its breathtaking view over the bay of Jounieh.

SLEEP Urban Faqra Hotel (09 341541) is a modern hotel with magnificent views over the snowy slopes. This hotel is also home to Lo Zio (76 070605/09 341541), a restaurant serving international cuisine. L’Auberge de Faqra (09 300600) is a luxurious hotel that offers its guests unique amenities like a private ski slope. Alternatively, book a room at Terrebrune Hotel (09 300060) and enjoy a delicious Lebanese meal at Chez Michel (09 300614) right next door.

SEE The Temple of Faqra (Qalaat Faqra) is an archaeological site with Roman and Byzantine ruins featuring well-preserved altars, columns and tombs. You may also want to check out the natural stone bridge (Jisr Al-Hajar), which spans Nahr El Laban.

As one the nearest ski resorts to Beirut, Zaarour offers family-friendly ski slopes and picturesque views of red roofed houses hidden under coats of snow.

SLEEP You can spend the night at the lavish Le Grand Chalet (04 310300), a boutique hotel in the heart of the mountains, or rent a chalet. Alternatively, for a more authentic Lebanese experience, book a room in a traditional house in the village of Hayda Lebanon (78 887222).

SEE Hayda Lebanon is an initiative that aims to replicate the traditional Lebanese experience by showcasing typical Lebanese food, entertainment and culture.

More online lebanontraveler.com

QANAT BAKISH

Skiers of all levels come to enjoy this uncrowded destination with excellent snow and quiet resorts.

EAT Offering a selection of French and Italian cuisine, Notch Restaurant (70 765755) reopens in mid-December just in time for ski season.

SLEEP Snowland Hotel (04 252222) is the nearest to the slopes, making it an ideal family getaway.

SEE The old village of Qanat Bakish is one of the best preserved villages in Lebanon. The plateau of Bakish is a popular destination offering plenty of activities during winter. Go snowshoeing up to the Cross of All Nations, the largest illuminated cross in the world.

MZAAR KFARDEBIAN

This iconic ski trail is one of the first to come to mind when ski season hits.

Attracting thousands of visitors daily, these two locations offer countless slopes and trails suitable for just about anyone.

EAT There’s no shortage of international chains that take up residency in this region during ski season, and there are endless local options as well. Head to Le Montagnou (03 341441) for some delicious French cuisine, then pass by Rikki’z (03 120201) and Odin (03 700072) for fun events, drinks and finger foods you are sure to enjoy.

SLEEP There are a number of high-end hotels in the area such as the Intercontinental Mzaar Mountain Resort and Spa (09 340100), which boasts a private slope and a fantastic spa guaranteeing you a weekend of total relaxation. Other lodging options include Eleven (09 341741), a boutique hotel within walking distance of the slopes.

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LAKLOUK

Unlike other destinations, Laklouk is almost clear of construction and boasts one of the best ski schools in the country.

EAT Warm up by the fireplace and indulge in delicious raclette or fondue at The ShangriLa Hotel (09 430006) or enjoy mezze at Azawardi (76 888868).

SLEEP The luxurious Shangri-La Hotel (09430006) is a top-notch choice for a touch of luxury.

Alternatively, the Nirvana Hotel and Spa (03 441112) has a cottage feel, with a splendid lobby perfect for socializing after a long day on the slopes.

SEE Don’t leave without visiting the nearby village of Afqa, the Balou Balaa Sinkhole and Baatara Waterfall in Tannourine. You can also head to the beautiful monastery of Saint Charbel in Annaya.

SEE The view of the famous Chabrouh Dam during the winter is quite extraordinary.

Photo: Ragheb Ismail

lebanontraveler.com

ROSSINI OSTERIA E CAFFĂˆ B R I N G S A F R E S H I TA L I A N V I B E T O B E I R U T Beirut is warmly welcoming its newest Italian neighbour, Rossini, set in the heart of the city and offering a fresh Italian vibe.

Newly opened on the ground floor of Phoenicia Hotel, Rossini Osteria e Caffè offers a carefully crafted menu of authentic Italian classics, freshly prepared with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients, as well as a tempting selection of Italian beverages, including authentic Italian coffee, and a freshly baked patisserie selection.

At an average of 35 USD per person, the menu is also designed to offer the optimum quality value ratio and something for everyone.

Open every day of the week, Rossini welcomes guests from morning to evening in a casual and relaxed ambiance with a trendy vibe with a hint of playfulness. In this cool, contemporary setting, there is indoor seating for 100 persons and outdoor seating on the terrace for 44 persons.

Rossini is the perfect spot to take time out of your day, whether to indulge in a delicious coffee and gelato on the lively terrace, entertain business partners during lunch breaks, kick back with after-work drinks or enjoy a gratifying dinner.

External +961 (0) 1 357025 / Internal ext. 2461 - 2465

|

RossiniOsteria@phoeniciabeirut.com

56 GETAWAYS

5

PLACES TO GET

AWAY FROM IT ALL If a short break somewhere calm and casual sounds tempting, read on. Lebanon explorer Peter Ghanime shows us five places to recharge our batteries.

2. BLUE JAY VALLEY AZOUR

Blue Jay Valley is the perfect place to disconnect from everyday life.

Set in the heart of nature amid pine and olive trees, the retreat has a number of lodging options, including luxury tents and bungalows, making it a great choice for couples, families and groups. The on-site restaurant, which serves food throughout the day, affords formidable views across the valley.

What to do in the area Enjoy a hike in the valley and see the famous waterfall or head to Jezzine, a five-minute drive from Blue Jay. To experience traditional village life, explore the old souk, admire the architecture and grab a bite at one of the local restaurants.

Azour Main Rd., Jezzine, 07 811112/3, 78 880088, bluejayvalley.com

Photo: Peter Ghanime

1. ARSOUN VILLAGE METN

If you’re looking for a memorable escape, book a stay at Arsoun Village. Located just 30 minutes northeast of Beirut, the place oozes character. Ideal for families and groups, the village offers a variety of interesting lodging options: tents, eco-peak wooden tents, bungalows and tree houses.

What to do in the area Arsoun is a captivating village, where pine and oak trees cover 90 percent of the area. There are more than 10 water sources as well as old bridges and mills.

Nature lovers will enjoy the cycling tracks and hiking trails available.

Arsoun Main Rd., Metn, 71 226111, arsounvillage.com lebanontraveler.com

Photo: Rami Rizk

More online lebanontraveler.com

57

3. MARINE’S JUNGLE QARTABA

Located along the banks of the River Ibrahim near Qartaba, Marine’s Jungle is your quintessential eco-village. The accommodation comprises tents and wooden bungalows that can sleep up to five people. On site, guests can enjoy a number of fun daytime activities such as basketball, volleyball and table tennis as well as hiking, while karaoke and campfires set the scene in the evening.

What to do in the area Historically, Qartaba was an important silk-producing area and, consequently, there are several abandoned silk factories on the road leading towards the town. In the center, there is a large church square surrounded by olive groves, mulberry orchards and vineyards.

Qartaba, 03 626169

4. MAYOULI BATROUN

Located in Batroun, Mayouli is a pretty bed and breakfast where tranquility reigns. Hidden among fruit orchards, the property has been designed with the busy city dweller in mind; guests can relax in the hammocks, pick fruit from the trees or cook their own food in the barbecue area.

Although the rooms are simply furnished, they are comfortable and equipped with everything you need.

What to do in the area A five-minute drive will get you to the center of Batroun, where you can wander around the old souk and sip on a lemonade, a local specialty. Don’t miss the magnificent Saint Estephan Cathedral at the old port, or the Phoenician Wall and Our Lady of the Sea Church further along the coast.

There are also many boutique wineries nearby such as Ixsir (71 773770), Aurora (71 632620) and Batroun Mountains (03 484863).

Soutouh St., Batroun, 71 000516, mayouli.com

5. NOMAD’S NATURE & NURTURE SHOUF

Situated in Sirjbal, Shouf, Nomad’s Nature and Nurture is a chilled-out and low-key spot, offering guests the chance to embrace a slower pace of life. The house provides comfortable rooms with mountain views and plenty of outdoor space. Take a nap in one of the riverside hammocks, read a book on the swings or wander through nature. Suitable for all travelers, a playground is available for children. Continental and halal breakfast is served every morning and guests can eat at the French restaurant located on-site.

What to do in the area Kfarhim Grotto (05 720500) is a natural phenomenon located within a 10-minute drive of Nomad’s. The magnificent stalagmites and stalactities are believed to have been formed around four million years ago.

The pretty mountain village of Deir Al Qamar is also close by. Visit the Marie Baz Wax Museum (05 511666) in the town square, admire the traditional architecture in the narrow lanes or simply while away the hours in one of the many cafés.

Aljalhelya Rd., Sirjbal, 76 370709

Photo: Krystel Riachi

peterwenmaken lebanontraveler.com

58 BEST BEDS

GLORIOUS GUESTHOUSES Promising visitors a haven of peace, L’Hôte Libanais’s family member in Abadieh is a one-story stone house surrounded by fruit trees and evergreen pines. Reem Joudi tells us more.

BEIT AL WADI

Beit Al Wadi was a labor of love for Loulou and her architect husband, Rabih. For ten years, Rabih gathered the stones that would become the foundation of his dream country home, building a simple and comfortable dwelling that combines contemporary design with the charm of traditional Lebanese architecture. Together, the dynamic duo welcomed guests from all around the world, introducing them to the warmth of Lebanese hospitality.

Since her husband passed away a few years ago, Loulou has been running Beit Al Wadi. She is a natural host - funloving, charming and vivacious - with a welcoming spirit that makes guests instantly feel at home.

Photo: Fouad Abdel Malak

The guesthouse consists of two rooms, elegantly decorated with a melange of authentic Lebanese aesthetics and modern elements; traditional tiles with ornate designs line the floors, while modernist art pieces cover the walls. Equally inviting is the living room space: bathed in sunlight with rustic wooden accents and a fireplace, making Beit Al Wadi an ideal home away from home.

It is also the perfect place to reconnect with nature. The rooftop garden often basks in a golden glow, shaded by a hand-made, wooden tent. Flowers and trees surround the

Photo: Natheer Halawani

quaint seating area and greenery stretches out as far as the eye can see. The fruits and vegetables that grow in the garden accompany the traditional breakfast Loulou serves to guests every morning and are also the key ingredients that feature in her fresh, delicious and flavorful lunches and dinners, prepared upon request.

What to do in the area Those who wish to enjoy a quiet escape can relax in Beit Al Wadi’s garden, where they can read and admire the surrounding landscape. Alternativey, the nearby city of Aley offers guests a plethora of restaurant options and a vibrant nightlife. For those seeking to learn more about Lebanese culture, crafts and heritage, the Bsous Silk Museum (05 940767, thesilkmuseum.com) is a short 20-minute drive away.

Photo: Fouad Abdel Malak

lebanontraveler.com

hotelibanais.com

More online lebanontraveler.com

Looking for a change of scenery? Travel blog Notes of a Traveler reveals two new guesthouses in Tyre and Deir Al Qamar, where you’re guaranteed a great view and a memorable stay.

59

BEYT EL JABAL

Spread over juxtaposed terraces overlooking the green mountains of Shouf, Beyt el Jabal in the pretty village of Deir Al Qamar consists of eight rooms and a garden, remodeled and beautifully decorated to reflect the charm and authenticity of a traditional Lebanese home. Flowers, swinging chairs, books and warm smiles are part of the experience, as is the delicious home-cooked breakfast.

Beyt el Jabal is another addition to the Beyt family of guesthouses, providing the perfect destination to explore the picturesque village of Deir Al Qamar and the many attractions of Shouf, including Moussa Castle, Beiteddine Palace, Atelier Assaf, Barouk Cedar Reserve and Baakline River.

70 954057

Photos: Krystel Riachi

LES JARDINS DE TYR

In the heart of Tyre, surrounded by hectares of banana plantations, lies Les Jardins de Tyr: a stunning 10-room guesthouse. The beautiful building was inherited by Ramzi Charaf who renovated it to continue the legacy of his father and grandfather. Preserving the original architecture, he uplifted it with the distinguished touch he earned over years of acquiring and managing boutique properties in Cape Town and Geneva.

Indeed, carefully selected furniture, accessories and decorative items add charm to the gorgeous two-hectare property, which is endowed with a garden boasting more than twenty varieties of flowers and fruit trees. The project also includes a tennis court and a private pool for guests to enjoy.

Tyre’s famous Mina area is located just 10 minutes away, while the sandy beach is just a stone’s throw.

03 136073, lesjardinsdetyr.com

notesofatraveler.com lebanontraveler.com

60 LEBANON IN PICTURES

AN INSTAGRAM JOURNEY Diversity is one of country’s most precious qualities.

Instagrammer Buddcorp shows us a multifaceted Lebanon.

Akoura

Beirut

Shouf

Bekaa

Rachaya

Tripoli

buddcorp Check out @lebanontraveler on Instagram for other pictures we love and stay tuned for our next photo journey!

escape Your perfect escape in the heart of Beirut.

Our exquisite sea view rooms and suites are sure to meet your needs. A unique getaway is best enjoyed by swimming in our indoor pool, enjoying a relaxing massage, and savoring an exceptional gastronomic experience. Mรถvenpick Hotel is the ultimate destination in Beirut.

Book your stay on 01 869 666 or email us on hotel.beirut.reservations@movenpick.com

movenpick.com

62 ON THE TRAIL

A NORTHERN TRAIL

If you’re looking to explore the lesser-known parts of North Lebanon, you’ll love the Road of Angels tour. We explore just a few of its many highlights.

2

Kareen Nahas is everything but your regular tour guide. An accomplished painter with over 20 years’ experience in Europe and the US, Kareen talks about her Road of Angels tour with such passion that it sounds almost poetic. “Intertwining roads with majestic views, a kaleidoscope of ever-changing colors and remote areas that represent the mysterious paths of ancient civilizations: this is what Road of Angels is all about,” she says.

The small-group tour focuses on the area around Batroun, introducing visitors to many of its hidden gems. “There are caves and temples and some incredible churches with frescoes dating back to the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. They are extremely difficult to find and require an off-road

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3

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the most beautiful waterfalls cascading over the cliff edge and have lunch at one of the many restaurants along the Jaouz River.

After lunch head towards the (4) Greek Orthodox Theotokos Monastery in Kaftoun.

The sixth century monastery is an oasis of calm, housing exquisite icons.

vehicle to reach; that’s what has kept them so well preserved,” Kareen adds.

To see a glimpse of the area, start your day with a delicious breakfast at Furn Em Nassif (76 377033) in Smar Jbeil, one of the oldest villages in Lebanon. After you’ve enjoyed a zaatar or kishek saj, continue your journey to the ruins of (1) Smar Jbeil’s Citadel.

This stunning landmark dates back to the Phoenician period and provides visitors with insight into the rich history of the area.

End your day in (5) Batroun by wandering around the old souks. Grab a glass of thirstquenching lemonade from Chahine (06 741292), Hilmi (06 740507) or Tony Daou (06 741564) and watch the sunset from the old port while the colorful moored boats bob up and down to the rhythm of the waves.

5

From there you can visit (2) “The Sisters” in Bchaaleh, a group of sixteen 6,000-yearold olive trees considered to be among the oldest in the world.

Take the scenic mountain road from Bchaaleh to (3) Beit Chlala to see one of lebanontraveler.com

71 204835, roadofangels.com

64 AGENDA

SAVE THE DATE

LMTA Thru-Walk

Grab your agenda and mark down these 2018 and 2019 events.

NOVEMBER

CHRISTMAS IN ACTION

VAMOS CUBA! SHOW

Where: Trainstation, Mar Mikhael, Beirut When: 12 - 16 December

The hottest Cuban musical is making a stop in Lebanon for what is sure to be a spectacular visit. ticketingboxoffice.com

Back for its fourth edition, this market has quickly become one of the country’s favorite Christmas shopping destinations for supporting the work of local craftspeople as well as the Children’s Cancer Center of Lebanon.

Christmas in Action 2018

Where: Casino du Liban When: 23 November - 1 December

DECEMBER BEIRUT CHANTS FESTIVAL Where: Around Beirut When: 1 - 23 December

For its 11th edition, the Beirut Chants Festival will bring together numerous concerts in celebration of the holiday season. Performances include Christmas carols, classical music and ethnic songs. This festival acts as a platform to showcase local and international talent and spread a message of love and peace. beirutchants.com

BEIRUT AND BEYOND INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL Where: Around Beirut When: 6 - 9 December

Since its inception, BBIMF has strived to promote music from all around the region and this year will be no different.

Combining professionals and amateurs, the sixth edition of the festival promises a line-up like no other. beirutandbeyond.net lebanontraveler.com

NUITS NOSTALGIE: MICHEL FUGAIN Where: Casino du Liban When: 15 December

Don’t miss French singer and composer Michel Fugain as he serenades the crowd. ticketingboxoffice.com

THE CIRCUS MUSICAL: WIZARD OF OZ Where: Casino du Liban When: 25 - 30 December

A unique interpretation of an all-time classic, witness the story of Dorothy recounted in a way you’ve never seen before: in a circus setting. ticketingboxoffice.com

CANDY FEST WORLD TOUR Where: Palais des Congrès, Dbayeh When: 27 - 28 December

Make this Christmas an unforgettable one with this amazing international show that blends great music, magnificent dances and incredible acrobatics, among many other special treats. ticketingboxoffice.com

FEBRUARY NUITS NOSTALGIE: RAUL DI BLASIO GALA DINNER Where: Casino du Liban When: 9 - 10 February

Listen to the beautiful sound of Argentine pianist Raul di Blasio as he takes the stage. ticketingboxoffice.com

AL BUSTAN FESTIVAL

Where: Al Bustan Hotel, Beit Mery When: 12 February - 17 March This festival celebrates international music and performing arts of all kinds, from opera and classical concerts to dance and theater performances. This year’s edition, under the theme Crescendo, the Al Bustan Festival will be celebrating the work of Italian musicians, composers and operas with 18 live performances taking place. albustanfestival.com

MARCH LMTA THRU-WALK

Where: Lebanon Mountain Trail When: 29 March - 28 April Under their slogan “Hike it. Protect it,” the Lebanese Moutain Trail Association are organizing their Thru-Walk, which will take you over 75 towns and villages belonging to the Lebanon Mountain Trail. The 470km trek will take place from Akkar all the way to Marjayoun or the other way around, depending on your choice. lebanontrail.org

More online lebanontraveler.com

APRIL

JUNE

BEIRUT INTERNATIONAL PLATFORM OF DANCE BIPOD

THE GARDEN SHOW & SPRING FESTIVAL

Highlighting the skill of local and international studios, the 15th edition of BIPOD is set to celebrate the art of dance. maqamat.org

The Garden Show & Spring Festival is a celebration of the great outdoors, welcoming the summer season in Lebanon. Visitors can discover an extensive array of home and garden equipment, floral products, as well as great food and entertainment. the-gardenshow.com

Where: Around Beirut When: TBC

TRIPOLI FILM FESTIVAL Where: Tripoli When: 11 - 17 April

Asserting Tripoli as a culturally rich and promising touristic destination, the sixth edition of the Tripoli Film Festival will bring together professionals and amateurs alike to showcase their filmmaking talents. tripoli-filmfestival.org

MAY ART IN MOTION

Where: Jesuits Garden, Geitawi, Beirut When: TBC Presenting its second edition under the title Nafas, Art in Motion will showcase the work of 10 Lebanese and international artists. art-inmotion.org

Where: Beirut Hippodrome When: 5 - 8 June

TRAVEL LEBANON Where: Beirut Hippodrome When: 5 - 8 June

Travel Lebanon attracts more than 20,000 visitors who come to meet tourism experts and operators, discover new destinations, watch artisans at work and enjoy the traditional flavors of the country.

Keep up to date with the latest events taking place across the country by following Lebanon Traveler on Facebook and Instagram, and visiting lebanontraveler.com

www.chateauksara.com

65

REGULAR ACTIVITIES HIKE Vamos Todos (03 917190, vamos-todos.com), Dale Corazon (70 986118/70 997062, dalecorazon.com), 33 North (03 454996, 33-north.com), Footprints Nature Club (03 876112, footprintsclub.com), Promax (03 955642, promaxsports.com)

CYCLE Cycle Circle (03 126675, cycling-circle.com), Beirut by Bike (03 435524) and CycloSport (01 446792/03 974736, cyclosportlb.com) CLIMB Lebanese Climbing Association (03 112338, climbinglebanon.com) PARAGLIDE Club Thermique (03 933359, clubthermique.org), Exit to Nature (03 559992) and LiveLoveParagliding (71 326039) SKI/SNOWBOARD Republic of Snowboarding (81 292634, republicofsnowboarding.com) and Skileb (70 103222, skileb.com) SNOWSHOE Adventures in Lebanon (71 443323, adventuresinlebanon.com), and most hiking specialists.

lebanontraveler.com

66 TOP TIPS

BASSAM

FATTOUH Makeup artist to the stars Bassam Fattouh is used to red carpet events, but Beirut is where he feels most at home.

YOU’RE WELL KNOWN INTERNATIONALLY FOR YOUR MAKEUP BRAND AND FOR WORKING WITH CELEBRITIES. HOW DID IT ALL START? I used to love makeup, art in general, fashion and beauty so, after finishing high school, I went to Paris to the Carita Beauty Institute where I studied esthetics and cosmetology for three years. After I completed my studies, I returned to Beirut with a different outlook and approach to beauty.

WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN YOUR SECOND CHOICE OF CAREER? Interior design, that’s for sure. I just love designing in general, whether its fashion or home interiors.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR MOST MEMORABLE CAREER HIGHLIGHT? The launching of my makeup brand in 2010 was incredible. It was like a dream come true. lebanontraveler.com

BESIDES CREATING MAKEUP, HOW DO YOU EXPRESS YOURSELF ARTISTICALLY? I feel I am creative in many ways and I like going to galleries, discovering new artists and new art forms within sculpture and architecture. One of my favorite things about traveling is visiting museums and art galleries.

AS A NATIVE OF BEIRUT, HOW DOES THE CITY INSPIRE YOUR WORK? The people of Beirut inspire me. Despite all of the hardships they face, the Lebanese are eternally glamorous; they go out, party and enjoy their lives.

YOU TRAVEL A LOT FOR WORK. WHAT IS THE FIRST THING YOU LOOK FORWARD TO WHEN YOU COME HOME? My home, my room, my mom and the people I love. Family and friends mean the world to me and it is with them that I truly feel at home.

WHEN YOU’RE NOT WORKING, WHAT ARE YOU MOST LIKELY TO BE DOING? I’m normally researching and brainstorming ways to develop the brand.

I don’t consider this as work because I love it. Nevertheless, I still enjoy going out with friends somewhere relaxed with nice music.

DESCRIBE WHAT BEIRUT MEANS TO YOU. It’s a magical city, full of beautiful contradictions.

WHAT HIDDEN GEM IN LEBANON WOULD YOU RECOMMEND TO TOURISTS? The Christian quarter of Tyre in South Lebanon is stunning. The streets are so charming, with colorful old houses. I’m also impressed by the work of the Byblos Municipality and how they have preserved the city.

FAVORITE SPOTS IN BEIRUT Art gallery: Opera Gallery in Downtown has a wonderful collection of art pieces.

Boutique : I love what Nada Debs does. She really inspires me.

Café: I go to Em Sherif Café a lot, where I like to sit outside and people watch while eating delicious Lebanese food.

Neighborhood: Walking around Mar Mikhael and admiring the old buildings is amazing. bassamfattouh.com

BO

OK AVA ST ILA OR BL ES E A & T ON L

IN

Inspire • Eat • Live Get the tastiest news & bites in town

tasteandflavors.com

DESSERT

BLACK CHOCOLATE CARNIVAL

A PUBLICATION BY HOSPITALITY SERVICES SARL

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