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Here We Are North Shore, Hawai’i 2020 Nathan Florence Photo Keoki

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F R E E PA R K I N G “I'll be honest when I go out to shoot Pipeline, I am really hoping to get a beautiful wave shot. Of course I'm stoked on getting a great action shot of one of the superheroes in a giant barrel, but empty waves are my absolute favorite thing to shoot. I love to sit in the middle between the photographers on the inside and the outside and wait for these beauties to come through. In all my years of shooting, whether front lit or beautiful and backlit, these are the photos I love and am most thankful for. How's the backwash on this bad boy?�

Pipeline, Photo - Brian Bielmann

E D I TO R ' S N OT E

2020, Aloha!

By Andrew Oliver Photo - Brian Bielmann

It goes without saying that 2020 has been a tumultuous year. World events aside, things have been pretty dramatic just in our little surf bubble. A postponement of the realization of Duke Kahanamoku’s dream, with the debut of surfing in the Olympics being pushed back to 2021 at the earliest. The cancellation of the 2020 WSL Tour. Global and regional travel bans leaving surfers around the world either stranded at home or stranded in paradise. Surfer Magazine, the “Bible of The Sport” closing their doors after 60 years of publication. The passing of legendary surfer and industry icon Michael Thomson. And, closer to home, the passing of Hawai’i’s first World Champion Derek Ho. These are just a few of the events that have rocked the surfing world in 2020.

Admittedly, there have been many lows, but these are the major headlines. What usually doesn’t cut its way through the ceaseless social media chatter are the small personal moments experienced by all of us in the surf. The simple mixture of surfing’s essential elements, a board, some waves, and a willing surfer is all it takes to spark some positivity into your life. This year especially, it has been all the more necessary to find these moments of escape, to shed the burdens of our terrestrial life. Hopefully you find yourself having such an incredible session it creates a memory that blocks out some of the long shadow of this year.

For the posse of North Shore groms who made their Waimea Bay debut during the early days of the pandemic (page 22) they did just that; pushing their own personal boundaries in a session they will never forget.

We head into the final months of 2020 in hopes that the worst is behind us. Regardless of what’s in store, take solace in the fact that the potential for creating an unforgettable experience is out there every day in the waves. All that’s needed is you and your board.

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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

18

Free Parking

20

Editor's Note

26

Big Day Out

30

Stuff We Like

34

Here We Are

40 Aperture 50

The First Swell

58

News & Events

62

Industry Notes

66

Last Look

Photo - Brian Bielmann

C O V E R S TO R Y When a purple blob makes itself known on the Pacific Weather charts, the excitement of a possible huge swell heading to Jaws lingers in the mind of many. Nathan Florence, one of those many hell men who seek out the finest pick of behemoth walls of water to experience what it means to ride the wave of a lifetime. -Keoki

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FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2020

Big Day Out

N o r t h S h o r e g r o m s m a k e t h e i r way i n to t h e Wa i m e a l i n e u p P h oto s a n d S to r y by S p e n c e r S u i t t

As every winter season on the North Shore comes to a close, there’s always talk of the “last swell” as summer nears. So having a wave break out past “The Boil" at Waimea during the last week of April took many by surprise. With school being shut down because of covid-19, it was some of the up and coming groms who relished the opportunity to surf Waimea for a couple of days. For these 12-15 year olds, this swell marked some of their first times in the lineup, as well as some of the biggest waves most of them have surfed in their short lifetime.

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Leo Olson

They often paddled out all at once, and although it wasn’t crowded for Waimea standards, the groms filled the lineup with infectious enthusiasm. Leo Olson, age 15, lives 100 yards from The Bay and his comfort showed as he was sitting the deepest of anyone, adults included, in the lineup, taking off on any wave that came his way.

Riding a 20th century 8’2” single fin shaped by Dave Parmenter, 15 years old Maikai Burdine conquered the biggest wave of the sessions. Nalu Deodato, Luke Tema, Rivan Rosskoph, Kaiser Auberlen, Luke Swanson and Kaden Russi were all pushing and motivating each other on every wave, oftentimes joining together for “party waves” for the thrill of it. With the guidance and borrowed board from coach Ross Williams, 15 years old Bettylou Sakura

Betty Lou Sakura Johnson

Stone Suitt

Johnson gilded with poise and style on an 8’8” for her first drops over The Boil. It was the 12-year-old wide-eyed Waimea rookies Stone Suitt, Mala`e McElheny, and Kaiano Costa who positioned and surfed well beyond their young years.

So as the “last swell” talk will continue for years to come, the last week of April 2020 will definitely be etched into each kid's memory for the rest of their lives.

Malae McElheny

Stuff We Like Volcom True Conversation

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SJ’s Naturally Fermented Kimchi

These days we are experimenting with the best pathways towards health in such concerning times. So if you’re looking for some extra probiotic support for your immune system and gut function, (and an opportunity to support Hawai`i businesses), try out SJ’s Kimchi. Fans of the fermented Korean booster include Mikey O'Shaughnessy and Kelly Slater. SJ’s naturally fermented kimchi is not only packed with natural probiotics to support immune and digestive health, but as the first company in the State of Hawai`i to receive a room temperature fermentation variance from the health department, SJ's is the Hawai`i original. Look for SJs in select Foodlands or from sallyjunes.com.

KICKING OUT

Surfer Magazine ends print publication after 60 years.

By Andrew Oliver

Surfer Magazine, widely considered the “bible of the sport,” has shuddered its print operations after six decades of operation. Founded in Orange County California by John Severson, Surfer came to be a clarifying voice in a scattered global community of individualists pursuing a hyper-individualistic pastime. Through it’s thoughtful articles and timeless images, the magazine helped shape the evolving definition of surfing through its many incarnations. In recent years, as a greater awakening and validation of who or what a “surfer” can be began to take place in the surf culture at-large, the magazine did an excellent job of reflecting the beautiful diversity of our ever-expanding community. The cover of the final issue being case and point. An aerial view photograph of hundreds of surfers who paddled out in support of the recent protests of systemic racism and police brutality in the wake of the brutal killing of George Floyd by police. In this time of extreme polarization, Surfer had taken on difficult topics that some found were beyond their purview, with calls to “stick to surfing.” But, surfing is defined by its multitudes, and Surfer Magazine was there to remind us of that fact. As the tagline of their final cover read, “we’re in this together.”

A brief sampling of memories shared on social media from the many contributors and featured surfers over the years.

Shane Dorian, pro-surfer

Conner Coffin, pro-surfer “When I think back about my surfing career, I would say that the cover of Surfer Magazine was one of my biggest accomplishments. Growing up, I was a surf mag fiend and I always dreamed of getting the cover of one. Surfing mags gave us inspiration, legitimate journalism, stories from the surf world, and an outlet beyond competition. The world seems to change at an astonishing pace these days, in some good and some bad.”

“Growing up, Surfer Magazine was literally the only thing I wanted to read.

I had a subscription when I was eight years old (thanks mom!). When the new mag would show up each month I would run to my room and read every word. I learned about people who were actually travelling to far away places to surf, and discovering new waves. It fully ingrained a culture I knew I wanted to be a part of for life. A simple magazine opened up the possibilities for so many of us growing up, got us thinking about the future, what we wanted to do, and where we wanted to go.

It came full circle for me personally when I got to be “guest editor,” at Surfer for a month with Kelly Slater and the help of Steve Hawk, the editor at the time. That was this grom’s dream come true. It’s the end of an era!”

Tom Servais, longtime Surfer staffphotographer “We anxiously awaited every month for the newest issue, as it was our only fix for news/photos about our special life with surfing. Surfers and photos were immortalized, since we looked at every photo in the latest issue until the next issue came out. As a surfer, or a photographer, getting a cover shot was the equivalent to getting a gold medal.

Thank you John Severson and the incredibly passionate staff that followed, for everything that Surfer gave us.”

Here We Are North Shore, Hawai’i 2020

By Andrew Oliver

Photo - Brent Bielmann

Traditionally, this has been the time of year when FreeSurf publishes its annual Triple Crown of Surfing program. It’s a homegrown guide to the global surfing convergence that occurs on Oahu’s North Shore each winter. For decades, this coastline has delivered a stage worthy of hosting surfing’s globe-trotting circus. While the competitive drama is always at a furious boil during the officially sanctioned events - the three jewels of the crown, the action isn’t confined solely to the contest schedule, as the performance levels remain dialed up to 11 in the daily freesurfs along the coast, and extra-curricular activities abound as the sun sets into what becomes many a late night throughout its six-week span. The Triple Crown is one of the rare spectacles that lives up to its immense hype.

One of the fundamental beauties of surfing is the opportunity it affords us to escape the burdens of our man-made world and return ourselves, however momentarily, to the sublime of the ocean.

o, what do we make of its absence? While the complex totality of the North Shore is by no means defined by the Triple Crown alone, for better or worse, it does serve as the primary lens through which this community is seen by the wider surfing world.

But, beyond missing out on the annual reaffirmation of the coast's supremacy among the upper echelons of the global surf pop-culture, most important are the tangible losses left in the Triple Crown’s void. The economic hardship caused by the global pandemic have been acutely felt in the visitor and service industries. For the North Shore, the Triple Crown is an economic juggernaut to a community heavily dependent on visitor spending. The surf shops, restaurants, and the spare rooms for rent, will all be left wanting for the annual influx of surf pilgrims.

In the early days of this evolving reality, optimism held fast that we would soon return to something resembling normalcy. While that optimism remains, the reality is, this season will be anything but normal.

The cynical among us may welcome the purge of international surf stars, industry goons, hanger-ons, and the whole encompassing circus. It could easily be argued that the North Shore had been running at full-tilt for far too long and a recalibration was well overdue.

The incessant traffic, maxedout infrastructure, and soaring home prices and rents, just a few symptoms of the coastline’s hyper-popularity. However, these are incredibly complex and entrenched issues which are by no means the provenance of the Triple Crown alone, even though it has been the very visible event that tips the already overleveraged scales in recent years.

Mason Ho, Backdoor Photo - Brent Bielmann

The North Shore, “the Mecca,� draws surfers and surf enthusiasts from all corners of the earth. And, yes they bring with them their buying power, but more importantly they bring with them their culture, friendship, and new approaches to riding waves.

ne of the fundamental beauties of surfing is the opportunity it affords us to escape the burdens of our man-made world and return ourselves, however momentarily, to the sublime of the ocean.

Understandably, we become jaded to this essential fact over time, but as the cliche goes - “Even the worst session will have you feeling better than before you jumped in.� It's a natural fix, a salve, which many of us come to rely on as a major source of balance in our lives. This was evident in the early weeks of the pandemic, with confusion and anxiety at a high point, the North Shore was blessed with a span of incredible waves unusually late in the season - and the lineups were packed. Admittedly, most found themselves with a glut of free time as their work was deemed non-essential, and surfing remained one of the few activities you could legally pursue in public. But, it would be insufficient to explain the late season crowds through circumstance alone. Our world as we knew it had been upended, and so we retreated to the sea.

Young, old, pro, and beginner alike, all were beckoned to the ocean, especially in the early weeks of the pandemic. Living in this era of widening inequality, we could take some solace in the fact that surfing and the ocean still technically remains there for us all. Being the individualist pursuit that it is, of course we all have a little cynicism in us, and would prefer to see the lineups and beaches devoid of crowds - as long as we're among the lucky few who remain to reap the benefits of empty waves. As the weeks

and months of the economic pause continue, and the reality of an uncertain future settles in, we have to ask, who among us will be able to continue to pursue the North Shore dream? Without the influx of visitors and the international events does the 19 years old surf-stoked grom living off of tips from their restaurant job, or the local family who rents out an extra room to visitors to bridge the gap, or the burgeoning shaper selling boards through word of mouth orders, will they still have a path forward?

Hopefully, it doesn’t need to be an either or, and out of this time of great upheaval we can find a more balanced and sustainable approach. Because, beyond the economic repercussions, the great tragedy of missing out on the Triple Crown, and the regular stream of visitors, is the vibrancy the global surfing tribe brings to this community. The North Shore, “The Mecca,” draws surfers and surf enthusiasts from all corners of the earth. And, yes they bring with them their buying power, but more importantly they bring with them their culture, friendship, and new approaches to riding waves. Which in turn enriches our lives and drives us to be better surfers, and hopefully better people. Should we return to the “bursting at the seams” business as usual approach? Probably not. But, on some level we’ll all miss the tangible buzz that comes from the energy of the Triple Crown. Knowing that here, this little coastline in the middle of the pacific, for six weeks every year, becomes the center of the surfing universe - and that you are very much a part of that.

Mark Healey, Photo - Brent Bielmann

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Danny Fuller, Pipeline Photo - Shane Grace

Malia Manuel Photo - Mike Latronic

Flynn Novak, Pipeline Photo - Brian Bielmann

Pat Gudauskas, Ehukai Photo - Brian Bielmann

Zeke Lau, Pipeline Photo - Brent Bielmann

the First Swell

By Brian Bielmann Early winter is the most exciting time of the year, when you get it good and you're on it, it feels awesome. This winter, the first swell was small and all the action for me was at Rocky Point. It seemed to be the biggest and the best direction of the swell. All the new up and comers were out, along with a few the top pros, and everyone was pushing hard. It's nice to see faces that have been doing different things all come together for that same purpose when the waves are good, and we know where they will all be - surfing. It doesn't matter what’s happening around the world or in your neighborhood, all that matters is where the swell hits, where the wind works and who’s out.

Everything else goes away, if just for that time, but it makes everything else seem to be ok. Thank God we have Surfing to help get us through everything else that's happening in this crazy world.

Coco Ho, Rocky Rights Photo - Brian Bielmann This first swell had a few spots on the coast flaring up - dispersing the crowd. Additionally, with travel restrictions in place the normal hordes of WQS warriors that swarm Rockies we’re nowhere to be found. North Shore local Coco Ho enjoying the early season solitude.

Luke Swanson Gas Chambers Photo - Jake Zielinski

John John Florence Log Cabins Photo - Jake Zielinski

Kai Martin Rocky Lefts Photo - Jake Zielinski

Barron Mamiya, Rocky Rights Photo - Brian Bielmann The explosive strength in Barron Mamiya’s surfing stands out among his peers. He’s definitely one of the guys who, when he stands up on a wave, all eyes are on him. Full-Power projection.

Mason Ho Rocky Rights Photo - Andrew Oliver

Unidentified Rocky Rights Photo - Andrew Oliver

Alana Blanchard Rocky Rights Photo - Mike Latronic

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Makai McNamara, Rocky Rights Photo - Mike Latronic

Dane Gudauskas, Gas Chambers Photo - Andrew Oliver The zone between Gas Chambers and Rocky Point is the North Shore’s aquatic version of a skatepark. Any direction you’d like, draw your line, and dig in.

Jack Freestone, Rocky Lefts Photo - Brian Bielmann

NEWS & EVENTS

Mikey Wright and Isabella Nichols Claim Dominating Victories at The Boost Mobile Pro Gold Coast SOUTH STRADBROKE ISLAND GOLD COAST, QLD / AUS (Wednesday, October 7, 2020) - Mikey Wright and Isabella Nichols have taken epic wins at the Boost Mobile Pro Gold Coast in pumping surf at South Stradbroke Island. The pair had to overcome a field of some of Australia’s best surfers in four-tosix foot waves to claim victory in the second event of the World Surf League (WSL) Australian Grand Slam of Surfing.

2019 was a breakthrough year for Isabella Nichols who locked herself in a spot on the elite Championship Tour for the 2020 season. With the tour being cancelled, Nichols was left disappointed with a first-round elimination at the Tweed Coast Pro last month and vowed to pick herself up for the Boost Mobile Pro Gold Coast and that’s exactly what she did, dominating each heat over the two-day event. In the Final, Nichols came up against fellow Sunshine Coaster Sophie McCulloch and took control of the matchup from the outset, posting two keepers while McCulloch struggled to find rhythm. With this win and Tyler Wright’s early-round elimination yesterday, Nichols now takes the series lead for the Australian Grand Slam of Surfing with one event left, The Margaret River Pro.

Mikey Wright has shown that his 18-month comeback from Injury is complete with an incredible victory in pumping but challenging conditions at South Stradbroke Island. Wright displayed why he is looked at as one of the most exciting surfer’s on the planet as he pulled into deep heaving barrels and laid his trademark power gouges to take his first event win in over two years.

Wright overcame local wildcard, Liam O’Brien, with a dominating display in the final, winning with the highest single-wave score of the event, a 9.83 (out of a possible 10). Wright is now tied with Ethan Ewing as Jeep Leader of the Australian Grand Slam of Surfing.

“It’s great to take the win and I’ve had some great heats and waves through this event - these chunky barrelling waves really suit me,” Wright said. “Getting that barrel early in the final felt good. I stayed high on the takeoff and steered through with the wave cooperating for me which always helps. Taking the Jeep Leader Jersey jointly into Margaret River feels good - I like Margaret River and it will be good to get there again and surf some serious waves. I'm just stoked to be back competing and performing well.”

WSL

Mikey Wright returns to the podium with a victory at The Boost Mobile Pro Gold Coast. WSL / Cestari

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“It’s crazy that I’ve won this event and I’m now leading the Australian Grand Slam Ratings and will take the Jeep Leader Jersey into Margaret River - I’m over-the-moon,” Nichols said.

“I really enjoy these types of waves even though I’ve had a lot of big wipe-outs throughout this event as well, but it feels great right now to have taken the win. I had a pretty nervous start at the Tweed Coast event and was keen to make up for that here -- taking the win feels amazing. I’m looking forward to Margaret River, fingers crossed we get there. I visited Margaret River early this year to familiarize myself and it’s exciting -- I can’t wait.”

Boost Mobile Pro Gold Coast Men's Final Results: HEAT 1: Mikey Wright (AUS) 15.83 DEF. Liam O'Brien (AUS) 9.40 Boost Mobile Pro Gold Coast Women's Final Results: HEAT 1: Isabella Nichols (AUS) 11.07 DEF. Sophie McCulloch (AUS) 4.00

Day 1 standout Jack Robinson was unable to continue his searing form in the tubes of South Stradbroke, going down to eventual event runner-up Liam O’Brien in Semifinal 1, leaving him with back-to-back equal third-place finishes at the Australian Grand Slam of Surfing.

Adding to the high stakes, men's and women's overall series champions will each win $20,000AUD to donate to a charity of their choice.

For more information on this and the WSL Countdown Series, please visit www.worldsurfleague.com The Boost Mobile Pro Gold Coast couldn’t happen without the valued support of our partners including Boost Mobile, Tourism and Events Queensland, City of Gold Coast, Jeep, Bonsoy, Harvey Norman, Red Bull, Seven Network, Fox Sports Australia and Sky Sport NZ.

Isabella Nichols © WSL / Miers

Isabella Nichols and Mikey Wright have claimed victory at The Boost Mobile Pro Gold Coast at South Stradbroke Island. WSL / Cestari

LIGHTWEIGHT PADDED RASH GUARD

The Ribby was great!

Surfed 2-3 sessions per day and no rash or any irritation on my ribs! — M AT T H E W G E N N A

S U R F R I B BY. CO M

: thepaulerich

INDUSTRY NOTES

Congrats to Roxy girl Kelia Moniz and Joe Termini who are adding to the legacy of the Moniz clan. Kelia is pregnant with their first baby!

Hawai`i Island's Jason Momoa, of Game of Thrones fame, has partnered with Kala Alexander, Eddie Rothman, and the OG group of DaHui surfers, channeling their creativity into a clothing line. The exclusive line of boardshorts and tees debuted September 24th and are available online now.

In other baby news, Vans team rider Dylan Graves is settling into fatherhood with his tiny grom. Eddy Graves brightened up the world of parents Dylan and Carly in late August.

Following the Hawai`i-centric surf styles is Volcom’s Imikai de Vault. The Maui native is rocking the line’s Hawaiian-inspired boardies while hitting the waves on his home isle.

Seth Moniz Photo-Latronic

WSL celebrated surfing's Hawaiian heritage on Oct. 12th. Seth Moniz was among those honored his Hawaiian heritage on Indigenous People's Day.

She said 'Yes!' Vans team rider Dane Gudauskas got engaged at the beach in Hawai`i this October to his So-Cal surfing love Anna Ehrgott. Congrats to the pair!

The ever-evolving Rob Machado has a new title - "Investment in Happiness Ambassador" with Vuori clothing and we couldn’t think of a more perfect fit. Machado has also formed a partnership between the Rob Machado Foundation and Pacifico Beer, the latter of whom gave a donation of $20,000 on the trio's behalf to be spent by the Conservation Alliance, an organization that works towards preserving the land and waterways.

Next time you find yourself in Oxford, England craving a taste of home, fear not! You can now order up one of those refreshing plant-based smoothie bowls from the Sunrise Shack. Thanks to the entrepreneurial minds of the Smith Brothers, Koa, Alex, and Travis, and freesurfer Koa Rothman, the bright yellow roadside stop is now in Europe. (Also available in England - a mouthwatering local favorite Kua Aina Burger!)

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INDUSTRY NOTES California Governor Gavin Newsome took a break from pandemic press releases to sign an executive order, preserving some of our favorite Golden State breaks. The act ensures 30% of the state's lands and oceans will be protected over the next decade.

Guarda do EmbaĂş World Surfing Reserve

On a similar note, the Save the Waves Coalition secured Costa Rica's Playa Hermosa as Central America's very first World Surfing Reserve. Similar patterns of conservation have emerged globally including Riviera Nayarit's longboardable Sayulita wave. The community has been one of the rare places Americans were able to take a surf trip and the community has made efforts in water and energy conservation as well as waste management.

The pandemic has brought out the creativity in us all - including Quiksilver's Zeke Lau who launched a froth-worthy new vlog on his YouTube Channel. Check out clips of what Lau has been up to in the rare and uncrowded waters of O`ahu breaks during COVID.

We were in dire need of some contest action and vicarious wave-riding. The Jose Cuervo Surf Ranch Classic of Longboarding filled that void on October 18th, airing the best of longboarding online at worldsurfleagure.com.

Mark your calendars!

Hammerhead Spearguns opens its doors to the public on November 21, 2020 in their newer, bigger, storefront in Kapolei right next to Surfboard Factory Hawai`i!

This will also be the site of freediving certification classes, to be taught by Hammerhead Speargun’s very own Kevin Sakuda, US Spearfishing National Champion. Dive deeper, stay safe.

Meanwhile, John John Florence and his betrothed Lauryn Cribb have been getting their hands dirty in their organic home garden on the North Shore. The two have a harvest of fruits and veg galore, even collecting honey from their bee boxes! They are proud to have shortened what they deemed their "food miles" - the distance between their mouths and the source of their nutrition.

Taking the wait-and-see approach to COVID, the Big Wave Risk Assessment Group instructors including Greg Long and Brian Keaulana will be hosting online trainings for safety practices in heavy waters. Find out more at bwrag.com.

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Photo Adam Walker

94-344 Ukee St #2 Waipahu, HI 96797 Office: (808) 554-2572 Cell: (808) 321-9629 info@directelectrichawaii.com www.directelectrichawaii.com

Exceptional people, extraordinary service

SEAN YANO RA

808-386-4487 Top 1% of Realtors | Client Service Award sean@yanogroup.com | www.yanogroup.com License #: RS-61434

RB-17095

C O L L E C T O R ' S E D I T I O N Available at local surf shops and retailers everywhere "Thank you Dave at Shoreline PT for getting me healthy as fast as possible, so I can keep doing what I love" -Torrey Meister

Surf N Sea T&C Surf Shops Hawaiian Island Creations Hi-Tech Maui Kona Boys

Or order online at freesurfmagazine.com

L A S T LO O K Ulu Napeahi Pipeline, Photo - Brent Bielmann It’s miraculous how much beauty can be found in a wave so notorious for its danger, and the fear it instills in surfers the world over. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Master lensman Brent Bielmann swam into the belly of this beast - and here we behold Pipe in all its beauty.