the drunken cyclist By Jeffrey M. Kralik, Ph.D.
As
Spring into Rosés
recently as just a handful of years ago, I bristled when I heard “It’s rosé season!” For as a lover of pink wines, I drink rosé wines year-round regardless of the calendar or the temperature beyond my front door. As the rosé category has exploded, however, I have given up my Sisyphean effort to change the perception of rosé as a seasonal indulgence. Thus, as the calendar flips once more to March, it is a good time to review some of the consistently good producers on the market. While many of the shelves still contain last year’s wines (the 2020 rosés are still drinking beautifully), it is always fun the find the newest rosés as they make their way into the market. Here are some of my favorite rosés from around the world.
Widely Available Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel, Côtes de Provence, France Retail $25. “Consisting primarily of Grenache, Cinsault and Rolle.” While some may disagree, for me this has become the standard bearer in Provençal rosé. Sure, this is ubiquitous and distributed by one of the evil empires, but it is *really good* if not more. Other fabulous rosés from Chåateau d’Esclans: Rock Angel ($40), Les Clans ($80), and Garrus ($100).
Chehalem Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, OR Retail $25. Stoller Family Estate purchased the Chehalem Winery a few years ago and while the Stoller Rosé of Pinot Noir ($28) is stellar, I find the Chehalem rosé slightly more scrumptious.
Château Miraval, Côtes de Provence, France Retail $25. Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, Rolle. It is perhaps not “cool” to like this wine given that Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie are (still) part owners of this winery, but the other half is owned by the Perrin family and they more than know their way around the block when it comes to making rosé. Château Mirival also produces Studio by Mirival ($20), which is quite similar in profile, but not as complex.
Rodney Strong Pinot Noir Rosé, Russian River Valley, CA Retail $25. Rodney Strong has been making wine in Sonoma County for decades and this relatively new addition to the portfolio is always one of my favorite rosés. Bright, tart, fruity, this wine is perfect poolside as well as at the table.
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Might Take a Little Digging Pasqua 11 Minutes Rosé, Verona, IGT, Italy Retail $20. Corvina 50%, Trebbiano 25%, Syrah 15%, Carménère 10%. The name, 11 Minutes, refers to the amount of time the wine is in contact with the skins for this True Rosé. An attractive bottle and label house a pale pinkishorange wine, reminiscent of the Provençal style.
Château de Trinquevedel Tavel, Rhône Valley, France Retail $20. Under cork. 45% Grenache, 24% Cinsault, 15% Clairette, 10% Mourvèdre, 6% Syrah. Tavel is a bit of a rarity as the region can legally only produce rosé. Imported by Kermit Lynch, which is almost always a sign of quality. Darker than most rosés with more of a red wine vibe.
Be Human Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, WA Retail $18. A new producer in the region, part of the growing Aquilini family of wines, the 2020 version of this wine really stood out with oodles of strawberry and watermelon.
