R A N G E × A M AWAT E R WAY S THIS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT Sprawling vineyards and fairytale châteaux are typical of the Cadillac landscape; medieval archways meet quaint limestone houses in Bourg; appetizers on A maDolce — including this savory shrimp cake — are always artfully plated; A maDolce’s Captain Jean-François Robin keeps an eye on the tidal rivers.
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château sits on a 100-acre estate that’s a winning combination of vineyards, forests and parks. In the limestone building where the wine is produced, blended and stored, French oak barrels age predominantly merlot-based blends. We sample four vintages, along with a palate cleanser of sharp, dry cheese and cured ham, beginning with the youngest wine, a 2018 merlot and cabernet franc blend (silky smooth and expressive with fruity notes) and working our way through 2016, 2014 and finally 2008. My favorite is the 2014 vintage, which is high in tannins and has a fruity, aromatic finish. (We’re thrilled to discover that bottles are available to purchase, so we can relive the experience back on board AmaDolce, where passengers are free to bring their favorite wines from the day to enjoy while dining on the ship.) But before returning to the ship, we visit the medieval village of Saint-Émilion, known for its historic monuments, including the monolithic church, dug out of a rocky hillside in the 12th century, and its wines. At the end of the tour, we wander into Les Macarons des Saint-Émilion, where the precursors to
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modern-day macarons were first baked by Ursuline nuns in 1620. It’s impossible to leave without a box of the simple delicacies, which are made with only three ingredients (almonds, sugar and egg whites) and baked on food-grade paper that you peel off, like a sticker. On the third morning of our river adventure, we cruise down the Gironde estuary, stopping in the town of Blaye where a row of bikes awaits. Christiane, our guide, leads us down the winding streets of the 17th-century citadel. Built during the reign of Louis XIV to defend the city of Bordeaux against enemy attacks, it’s now home to a number of charming boutiques and bistros. From there, we bike to the mostly flat vineyards just outside the city, stopping to admire a handful of idyllic châteaux. The return trip to the ship along a converted railbed is easy, and we make it back in time for the Printemps des Vins de Blaye, a local wine and food festival that just so happens to be taking place in the citadel during our stay. The festival features more than a hundred pro-