beer at the table —by Adem Tepedelen
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RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUT, BARLEY WINE, DOPPELBOCK These bold and hefty, seasonal beers are a perfect match for end course at dinner.
Before we had the many amazing flavour profiles available to us in the ever-growing number of styles of craft beer out there, the idea of ending a multi-course meal with a beer would have been fairly absurd. After all, not many foods, other than maybe a hot dog or pizza pair particularly well with a watery pale lager, the predominant North American beer style for many decades. And a tin of lager certainly wouldn’t befit the conclusion of well-prepared haute cuisine. Ah, how things have changed. Where wine (or some grape-derived variation, such as port, sherry or cognac) has traditionally been the go-to beverage for desserts, cheese courses or just post-prandial sipping, there are several widely available beer styles—including numerous examples made by local breweries—that actually pair equally well, if not better, in many instances. These are big, higher-alcohol beers (typically in the 8%-11+% ABV range) that serve a different purpose than simply refreshing you on a hot day. Many of these are, in fact, released in the cooler winter months and are more about warming your insides than, say, quenching your thirst. “In winter time people tend to be inside more and they want bigger, heavier beers,” notes Howe Sound head brewer, Franco Corno. Though Howe Sound makes a full array of beers, its late-winter seasonal, Pothole Filler, an “inky black” Russian Imperial Stout, has proven to be a very popular release during the equally dark months of the year. The Russian Imperial Stout style originated in England in the 1800s and was brewed extra strong to withstand the travel to Russia. Corno describes it as, “even darker than a typical stout and we want [ours] to have a big roastiness to it and big body to it. It won’t be sweet like our oatmeal stout, but we don’t want to make it too dry like a typical Irish stout either, so it’s kind of in between.” Stylistically cool-month releases such as Russian Imperial Stouts, Barleywines and Doppelbocks only really have on thing in common: a high alcohol level. Though they’re all made with the same basic ingredients—water, barley, yeast and hops—the “recipes” differ
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in such ways as to create distinct styles that each offer unique sipping experiences (and flavour profiles). Here’s a more detailed description of each, along with some pairing suggestions. Russian Imperial Stout: Think of this as a much brawnier version of typical stout. The “imperial” part of name, basically indicates that it has higher alcohol content, and most of these will be close to 10% ABV, with modest carbonation. They emphasize the wonderful rich flavours of dark roasted malts, such as coffee, chocolate and a touch of smoke. Some are aged in bourbon barrels to add vanilla notes, as well. Hops is typically in the background and there may be a bit of residual sweetness. Serve in a snifter at 55° F with chocolate desserts (especially those with a berry component) for a truly great combination. Also terrific on its own, in lieu of a cup of coffee or espresso drink. Suggested local versions: Phillips The Hammer, Driftwood Singularity (out in late January), Howe Sound Pothole Filler (out in March). Barleywine: As the name indicates, these are nearly wine-strength (usually 10% ABV), though they are, in fact, beers. You won’t necessarily see it indicated on the beer’s label, but there are two predominant kinds of barleywines: English style, which has a sweeter, maltier profile and West Coast style, which has a huge swack of aromatic hops and a lot more bitterness. Both pair incredibly well with strong cheeses such as blue, sharp cheddar, gorgonzola and limburger. Serve in a snifter at 55° F and enjoy the complex flavours that range from sweet macerated fruits to burnt caramel, toffee and candied nuts. As for desserts, consider those that aren’t super-sweet such as cheesecake, flourless almond cake, dried figs, shortbread, dark chocolate or gingerbread. Or just savour the mutli-layered aromas and sip it like a fine cognac. Suggested local versions: Phillips Deadhead, Driftwood Old Cellar Dwellar, Central City Thor’s Hammer, which won Beer of the Year at the 2010 Canadian Brewing Awards last October. Doppelbock: These tend to be slightly lower in alcohol (and more beer-like) than the above two styles (which are ales), but they also share many characteristics. The bock style is, in fact, a dark lager, so the flavours created by the yeast and the conditioning process are different than ales. What’s similar is the higher alcohol (typically 8+% ABV) and the rich, sweet malty flavours. Again, they pair remarkably well with cheeses, particularly buttery ones like brie, gouda and havarti, but also earthier ones like camembert and fontina. As for desserts, anything with chocolate and/or nuts (on the not-super-sweet side) pairs well with the style’s round, robust malt profile. Suggested local versions: Phillips Instigator, Tree Captivator.
IN THE HOUSE
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Hester Creek Reserve Cabernet Franc 2007 40 year old vines, some of the oldest in the Okanagan, are used in this bottling, opening with aromas of cherries, raspberries and cedar smoke. The palate is full and smooth, with notes of anise, vanilla, savoury cherry, and earthy rusticity. A lingering spice on the finish is welcome. This would make a nice bottle with herbed Salt Spring lamb chop or spiced bison sausages. —TR Road 13 Vineyards Viognier Riesling Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Mouth filling and voluptuous Viognier (61%) is lifted with the acidity of Riesling (30%) and the fruity refreshment of the Sauvignon Blanc (9%). Big ripe peach and grapefruit aromas lead to a juicy and full palate of exotic spice, orange, sweet stone fruit and tropical flavours. Bright acid persists, even though buffered by the oily Viognier. Try this with Asian or Indian themed fare. Macadamia chicken with orange-ginger sauce would rock.—TR
919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.370.WINE (9463) www.strathliquor.com www.dontmissout.ca Ales Wines & Spirits from around the world value brands to classics
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EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2011
Therapy Vineyards Super Ego 2007 Opaque in the glass, the nose is big black fruit and smoke, with punchy flavours of plum, blackcurants, bramble, vanilla, anise and cassis. Decant it today with warming venison or bison, but if you can check your Superego for a couple of years and wait for the elements to marry you’ll be rewarded.—TR
Soloman Veneto
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