January 2026

ESSENTIAL READING FOR WINE LOVERS SINCE 1975

JANUARY 2026

Editors’ highlights from the past 12 months

Welcome The holy grail

It’s not just teetotallers watching the booming non-alcoholic drinks category with interest. Drinkers looking to moderate, those on driver duty, those who have to abstain for health reasons – there are many wine lovers who dream of a nonalcoholic alternative that would give the same experience and reward. But as Majken Bech-Bailey, an innovator in the category, points out in this month’s A drink with... interview (p12), anyone expecting a non-alcoholic wine alternative to taste like wine will be disappointed – because it contains no alcohol.

You have to accept that it will be a different experience, even if the drink is equally complex in a different way, and served with the same ceremony. But the growth of this category can only be a good thing – even for wine lovers like us.

Amy Wislocki, Magazine Editor editor@decanter.com

PS: You’ll notice a refresh this month (rather than an overhaul), in design and content, including a new back-page interview.

We’d love to hear your views, on the email address above.

In my glass this month

The thing that puts me off many non-alcoholic wine alternatives – apart from the lack of alcohol! – is an overly fruity taste, or discernible sweetness. So I’m a big fan of the Hojicha sparkling tea from Saicho (as is Fiona Beckett – see p73 for price and stockist details). No alcohol, but it’s beautifully packaged and the savoury profile (nutty and smoky) and umami character make it as satisfying as a non-wine food pairing can be.

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Decanter | January 2026 | 3

Inside January 2026

In focus

24 Wines of the Year 2025 The year’s highlights, from our Regional Editors 42 Burgundy 2024 A tricky vintage, but Charles Curtis MW has found some gems among the small crop of wines 54 Heitz Cellar Clive Pursehouse and Jonathan Cristaldi report back from a historic tasting at the Napa pioneer

58 Under the radar: Dr Edge Cassandra Charlick meets the music-obsessed maverick winemaker in Tasmania 60 An unorthodox pairing Running and wine is an increasingly popular combination, says Marianna Hunt

Collecting & investing

Spirits

94 Panel tasting: Southeastern European indigenous reds The grapes and regions may be unfamiliar to wine lovers, but the quality is high

70 Shrubs take root Chris Losh on the latest trend in zero-alcohol drinks

102 Expert’s choice: Lisboa Ines Salpico picks 18 great wines to introduce this exciting Portuguese coastal region

3

Welcome

6

Writing this month Meet four of the authors from this month’s Decanter

8

News The latest from the wine world

62 Bolgheri latest release The 2022 vintage and more, by James Button

68 Distilled Spirits news & cocktails

Food & travel

106 Weekday wines Decanter’s in-house tasting team brings you 25 top picks, ready to drink and priced at £30 or less

74 T ravel: The world’s best wine spas Let Alicia Miller lead you to the best places for a proper pampering

109 Weekend wines Priced £30-£60, seven standout buys to impress

72 W hat to pair with tea Brewing up some nice matches, with Fiona Beckett

COVER ILLUSTRATION ULLA PUGGAARD/CENTRAL ILLUSTRATION AGENCY

42

Learning

71 Books etc Sophie Thorpe enjoys the first book in a new series on Bordeaux

110 DWWA 2025 Shiraz story: 14 medal-winning wines from Australia

80 Wine wisdom Expert advice to help you on your ongoing wine journey

10 The brief Ideas and inspiration 14 Andrew Jefford’s column 16 Katherine Cole’s column 18 Guest column Amber Gardner on the swing back to familiarity in wine

22 DFWE Singapore report Photo highlights from our latest live event

87 Introduction

4 | Decanter | January 2026

Regulars

20 The Ethical Drinker ‘The wines & people that made me stop and think’

Buying guide 88 Panel tasting: Cool-climate Australian Chardonnay Terroir shines through on a tour of the great southern land’s cooler climes

112 Marketwatch Auction news and new releases, plus a view on the market

105 Subscribe to Decanter

Subscribe to Decanter Never miss an issue Go to decanter.com/subscribe

114 On the rack: Eric Asimov The New York Times wine critic opens up

60

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Decanter | January 2026 | 5

Writing this month CHARLES CURTIS MW

Who? Chris has been writing about drinks for 30 years, in which time he’s edited multiple magazines and written numerous books as well as hundreds of articles and columns. In 2023, he co-founded the World Alcohol-Free Awards, the first international competition dedicated to drinks at or below 0.5% alcohol What, & why read? In a slot usually dedicated to spirits, Chris introduces the ‘shrubs’ non-alcoholic category. His recommendations could be just what you need to perfect your Dry January plans

ADAM MORGANSTERN

Who? A New York City-based photographer and writer, Adam’s work covers travel, wine, spirits, food and adventure in general. Widely published, his work has appeared in The New York Times, Robb Report, Time Out New York and Forbes. He was also co-founder and editor of Organic Wine Journal, the first online magazine dedicated to organic and biodynamic wines What, & why read? Don’t miss the first of our new back-page interviews, which delve into the everyday wine-drinking habits of well-known figures in the world of food and wine, and beyond. In this issue, Adam quizzes longstanding New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov, and finds that he’s not immune to a particular challenge faced by other wine-loving New Yorkers ISSN 0954-4240 Decanter is published monthly by © 2026 Future Publishing Limited or published under licence. The title Decanter Magazine is registered at the US Patent Office and in Great Britain as a trademark. Registered at Stationer’s Hall No 30064. Marque Deposée. Marchio Registrato. Printed and bound in Britain by Walstead UK Limited. Distributed by Marketforce. All rights reserved.

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You are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this publication. Apps and websites mentioned in this publication are not under our control. We are not responsible for their contents or any other changes or updates to them. This magazine is fully independent

Who? Charles is a US-based fine wine advisor and writer, and author of The Original Grand Crus of Burgundy (2014).

Formerly head of wine at Christie’s US and Asia, he started out as a chef, training at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris What, & why read? Burgundy remains at the top of our readers’ list when it comes to favourite wine regions, and our annual report on the latest vintage releases is essential reading for anyone looking to get ahead in securing the wines they want. Read Charles’ assessment of the 2024 vintage here, and find a selection of his top picks, and then head to Decanter Premium online for the full lowdown

AMBER GARDNER

Who? Based in Sète, Languedoc, Amber is a former sommelier who has worked across Australia, Europe and the UK. Now a wine buyer, agent and writer, she’s the author of a monthly Substack Amber Wine, dedicated to French culture, romance and wine, and is a co-founder of Buvette Tours, a natural-wine travel company What, & why read? Keeping abreast of what’s in and out of fashion wine-wise can be exhausting.

In this month’s guest column, Amber reflects on the current mood among wine lovers, arguing that a return to the classics is linked to the current socio-economic climate

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6 | Decanter | January 2026

PHOTOGRAPHS NIC CRILLY HARGRAVE PHOTOGRAPHY, ADAM MORGANSTERN

CHRIS LOSH

News

A snapshot of what’s happening in the world of wine COMPILED BY CHRIS MERCER

Burgundy set for another small harvest

As en primeur season begins for Burgundy’s small 2024 vintage, it has emerged that the size of the 2025 crop is also relatively low.

Burgundy’s 2025 vintage was estimated at 1.43m hectolitres (mhl), or 190.7m bottles, said the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB). That’s bigger than 2024 (about 1.2mhl) yet below the 10-year average of 1.48mhl.

Winery stocks were above the five-year average in August last year, however. BIVB said ‘a smaller 2025 harvest’ means ‘total available supply should be better aligned with current market conditions’.

Will Hargrove, head of fine wine and associate director at merchant Corney & Barrow, said the 2024 vintage was notably affected by rain, while heat curtailed yields in 2025.

‘The climate change scenario is that we’re getting these different reasons for the smallness of crop,’ he said. In

PHOTOGRAPHS IAN SHAW/ALAMY, GENERATED WITH ADOBE FIREFLY AI

SNIPPETS

Michelin has announced ‘grape’ ratings for wine producers, echoing its famous gastronomic stars. Beginning with Bordeaux and Burgundy guides in 2026, producers can earn up to three Michelin Grapes, based on five criteria: quality of agronomy, including ‘vitality of the soil’, technical mastery, identity, balance and consistency.

Michelin said ‘Three Grapes’ means that ‘wine lovers can turn to the estate’s creations with complete confidence’.

8 | Decanter | January 2026

Grape pickers harvesting in a Domaine de la Romanée-Conti parcel of Burgundy’s famed Le Montrachet vineyard

terms of consumer impact, yields can vary by grape variety and even vineyard climats. Some producers may choose not to bottle wines from all individual sites in lower-yielding years. Yet, in vintages such as 2024, ‘positively selecting’ only the healthiest grapes can also ensure ‘consistently high’ quality, Hargrove noted.

Legendary Paris restaurant La Tour d’Argent is now offering diners a tour of its historic wine cellars, which hold 300,000 bottles and feature treasures stretching back more than two centuries.

Guests with lunch or dinner bookings can add a sommelierguided tour for €120pp. This includes a glass of Cognac in the cellar ‘wine museum’, which has a 400-page wine menu weighing five kilos. It runs three tours per service.

Château Mouton Rothschild has revealed a 2023-vintage label illustrated by Portuguese visual artist Joana Vasconcelos.

Best-known for large installations, Vasconcelos worked on a smaller scale to create the Paraíso (‘Paradise’) artwork for newly bottled Château Mouton Rothschild 2023. The Bordeaux first growth said: ‘Her drawing centres on a cluster of grapes and illustrates all the elements that come together to create a great wine: earth and water, the sun’s rays and the cool of the night, combined with the work of human hands, represented by the apex of a triangle as a beneficial incursion into the cycle of nature.’

Mouton has commissioned an artist to illustrate every vintage label since 1945.

Vasconcelos said she felt ‘very privileged and honoured’ to join the ‘Paintings for the Labels’ series.

A provisional deal to ‘futureproof’ the EU wine sector has included labelling rules for the rising no- and low-alcohol category. ‘Alcohol-free’ denotes wines below 0.5% alcohol by volume, and those under 0.05% can add ‘0.0%’ on labels, said the Council of the EU after its agreement with the European Parliament. It added ‘reducedalcohol’ is for wines ‘above 0.5% abv but at least 30% below the standard strength’, of a wine in that category.

Cabernet Sauvignon’s ‘gene memory’ stretches back some 400 years to its birth as a cross between Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc, University of California, Davis scientists have found. Their study showed that chemical switches known as ‘epigenetic marks’ can be stable across centuries of clonal propagation. The findings could be used to raise the grape’s climate resilience, while retaining its core characteristics, they said.

PHOTOGRAPH CHATEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD

Mouton unveils 2023 label

The brief

Ideas and inspiration for wine lovers, every month COMPILED BY AMY WISLOCKI

DON’T MISS

Women’s retreat in Bordeaux Wendy Narby (pictured right, on the right), Decanter contributor and author of The Drinking Woman’s Diet, has teamed up with Sally Evans (pictured left), owner of Bordeaux’s Château George 7, to organise a four-day retreat at Château Monlot in St-Emilion, aimed at women in mid-life. The Flourish retreat will focus on personal growth and goal setting, and will celebrate wine as part of a healthy lifestyle, combining workshops and presentations with yoga, wine tastings, and more. Prices from €1,950pp. viebonnevoyages.com/product/flourish-retreat Tiny Wine tasting packs Tiny Wine was set up to make great wines accessible to everyone, selling 100ml bottles prepared without introducing oxygen, using Coravin technology. UK wine drinkers can order curated kits or build their own from a selection from more than 60 wines, and featuring names such as Vincent Dauvissat, Henschke, Taylor’s (an exclusive deal), Sylvain Pataille, Clos Rougeard, Trinity Hill and Greywacke. tinywine.co.uk

Wine Blast One Million Giveaway To celebrate topping one million unique downloads of their Wine Blast podcast, Masters of Wine Susie Barrie and Peter Richards have announced a celebratory giveaway. Prizes totalling nearly £2,000 are up for grabs, including a Coravin Hermitage Timeless 6+, a set of Jancis Robinson glasses, a grower Champagne case from iDealwine and a Decanter subscription plus VIP Fine Wine Encounter tickets. susieandpeter.com/ wine-blast-one-million-giveaway

WHAT’S ON DECANTER PREMIUM IN JANUARY • Burgundy 2024 en primeur Exclusive to Premium: all 650+ tasting notes from our mammoth campaign, plus Charles Curtis MW’s full communeby-commune breakdown, vintage verdict and personal list of the best-value wines to buy.

• Northern Italy DWWA 2026 Regional Chair Michael Garner reveals the producers, grape varieties and regions set to dominate next year – essential reading as we see in the new year.

• Brunello di Montalcino 2021 Michaela Morris says there’s ‘massive elegance and immense balance’. Read her in-depth report, with tasting notes of new releases, and discover the wines the

10 | Decanter | January 2026

winemakers themselves are most excited about.

Plus her best-value buys.

• Cloudburst Chardonnay vertical 2010-2023 One of Australia’s most sought-after, nearimpossible-to-find wines. We taste every vintage of this Margaret River cult classic with winemaker Will Berliner.

• Inglenook Rubicon 2013-2022 vertical Philippe Bascaules (Inglenook’s director of winemaking and Château Margaux’s managing director) presents a decade of his iconic Napa Valley flagship – charting the refined evolution of this American legend.

Georgie Hindle Decanter Premium Editor Find out more at Decanter Premium’s homepage online

DREAM DESTINATION

Château LafauriePeyraguey

Sauternes, France Set among rolling vineyards in the heart of Sauternes, the historic first growth estate of Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey feels instantly transportive: quiet lanes, golden slopes and the slow rhythm of a region that still revolves around the vines.

The property was established more than 400 years ago, but its transformation into a world-class destination began in 2018, when owner, Swiss businessman Silvio Denz, opened the Relais & Chateaux five-star Lalique Hotel and Restaurant to celebrate the château’s 400th anniversary.

Here, four worlds meet – wine, crystal, gastronomy and hospitality – with a shared commitment to beauty and precision.

Bespoke chandeliers and stunning one-off pieces can be admired throughout – or taken home from the excellent boutique.

The Michelin two-star restaurant, led by Jérôme Schilling, serves refined, inventive cuisine that pairs naturally with the estate’s sweet and dry wines (as well as an extensive wine list from France and around the world), enjoyed against panoramic vineyard views.

Guests can explore wines through curated tours and tastings, or use e-bikes to discover neighbouring châteaux before settling down for the evening in luxurious rooms and an atmosphere of calm elegance. lafauriepeyragueylalique.com For a full review by Georgie Hindle, visit decanter.com Decanter | January 2026 | 11

THE BRIEF A DRINK WITH…

Majken Bech-Bailey

by Amy Wislocki

Danish sommelier Majken Bech-Bailey is a pioneer of non-alcoholic pairings in some of the world’s top Michelin-starred restaurants.

Her own range of non-alcoholic wine alternatives, BAEK, is listed in restaurants including Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High in London, and Adare Manor in Ireland ‘Most people in the rural community I grew up in drank beer or rum and coke, not wine, and I didn’t really drink alcohol.

I was all set to go to business school when I spent the summer working at a Michelinstarred restaurant. An incredible food and wine pairing there changed the direction of my life. I tasted a white Burgundy with a lobster and tomato dish, and I was blown away by how each elevated the other. It made me want to learn more about wine.

‘While there, I asked if I could play around with the non-alcoholic pairing on offer – I wanted to create something more complex. After that, I looked after the non-alcoholic pairing at every restaurant I worked at. It’s often an afterthought.’

‘In fine dining the dishes are very complex – I want to respect that and offer guests

LETTER OF THE MONTH

Bowled over by Beaujolais

Congratulations for highlighting southern Beaujolais (November 2025 issue), an area almost always overlooked. My knowledge of this area results from having a home there from 2002 until recently. I still visit regularly, staying at Maison de Pagneux. I want to add to Natasha Hughes’ article and impress on readers the easy accessibility and experiences awaiting in the area.

The country road that runs along the crest of the southern hills from south to north delivers breathtaking views (as far as the Swiss Alps and Mont Blanc on a clear day). Start close to Lyon at charming Charnay and meander through Marcy, Lachassagne and Graves-sur-Anse to reach Pommiers – a gentle, roughly 10km drive.

In addition to Café Terroir Chez Saint-Cyr and Beurre Noisette restaurants, I recommend Au Colombier in Anse – shaded outdoor dining in summer and a roaring fire in winter.

12 | Decanter | January 2026

the same experience and satisfaction that they would get if they were ordering wine.

‘In 2023, my chef husband Jordan Bailey and I started our own private catering and consultancy business. In the course of that I ran some masterclasses on non-alcoholic drinks and restaurants started asking me to make a few bottles for them. That’s how BAEK came about.

‘Previous to that I’d create a match for a specific dish. Now we had to create products designed to go with food, without knowing what they’d be served with – one as an alternative to white wine, and one to red. We’re now developing sparkling styles.

‘The advantage of having a chef for a husband is that I have access to an entire

On the hilltop nearest Villefranche, you’ll find Les Terrasses de Pommiers, with exceptional views and great cuisine.

Julien and Carole Valençot have spurned Michelin to retain their price-conscious local French clientele. Another such gem, Emile Job, is found in Montmerle-surSaône, not far north of Villefranche.

If readers only absorb one piece of advice, make it pre-book! These restaurants are local favourites and advance booking is vital (at all times).

While agreeing with Natasha’s hotel recommendations, many other options exist nearby in Quincieux, Ambérieux, Anse and of course Villefranche-surSaône. For the less budget-conscious, Château de Bagnols, just 10 minutes’ drive from Lachassagne, is exceptional.

Also, don’t rule out central Lyon, France’s gastronomic capital. Just 30-45 minutes, via either the A6 autoroute or on the more picturesque road alongside the Saône, will deliver you to the vineyards.

You’ll need space for wine, because both quality and price will astound you. Natasha

kitchen and range of ingredients. Plus, he understands how flavours work.

‘I wanted the pepper and tannin you’d find in a red wine in the “red” version; we ended up blending Merlot grape juice with the juice from aronia berries, which are thick-skinned and very tannic. Alexander seeds (now replaced with Sichuan pepper), Earl Grey tea concentrate and barrel-aged raspberry balsamic vinegar also feature.

‘With the white, I wanted something round and with some sweetness so it would go with savoury and sweet dishes. Bramley apple juice (blended with Chardonnay grape juice) has the perfect balance of sweetness and tartness, infused with roasted Jerusalem artichokes; there’s also a touch of beeswax, honey, tonka beans and sea salt.

‘Just as with wine, we consider colour, clarity, aroma, texture, body, flavour and length. And we use some wine descriptors so that people will understand what it tastes like. We’re trying to mimic some of the elements of a wine, but not wine itself. If you try to do that, you will always fail because it will never taste like wine as it doesn’t contain alcohol. Many people said we should use a wine bottle, but I want it to be clear that the products are not wine – instead, they are something unique that merits attention.’ baek.is

rightly concentrates on Gamay, but growers struggling to break even now champion single varietals such as Syrah, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. A great example is Château de Lachassagne, which offers wines of exceptional quality at very good prices. Equally, you must stop at Domaine des Crêtes in Anse, where Sylvain (fourth generation of family Brondel) is generous with tastings. They are open on Saturday mornings (on request at other times) and English is widely spoken.

Ray Roberts, East Horsley, Surrey, UK

Have your say & win a magnum of Champagne Bollinger

The enjoyment of wine is all about having and sharing opinions, so why not tell us yours? If you are amused, enraged or intrigued by anything you’ve read in Decanter or on decanter.com, let us know via email: editor@decanter.com Each month the sender of our letter of the month will receive a magnum of Champagne Bollinger, thanks to the generosity of Mentzendorff, the legendary Champagne house’s UK agent (mentzendorff.co.uk)

PHOTOGRAPHS ANTONINA MASLOVA/GETTY IMAGES, KARINE FABY, RUTH CALDER-POTTS, AGISIMOES-RETOGUNTL, ALESSANDRO DE BESI. CARTOON ROBERTTHOMPSONCARTOONS.COM

Above: What are your wine resolutions this year? See p83 to be inspired

ON OUR RADAR

Le Barthélemy Hotel & Spa, St Barts

by Vicki Denig

When it comes to wine selections at high-end Caribbean resorts, big-brand wineries often dominate. So fans of smaller, qualityfocused estates – and especially Champagne lovers – will delight in the selection found at Le Barthélemy Hotel & Spa. Located in Grand Cul-de-Sac on the northeastern coast of St Barts, the property features 44 rooms and suites, each uniquely designed by renowned French architect/interior designer Sybille de Margerie, as well as a beachside infinity pool and Le Spa, a partnership with luxury brand La Mer. But most importantly for Decanter readers, it boasts one of the best-curated wine lists on the island.

At Le Barthélemy’s on-site restaurant Abyss, the list is heavily French, with standout picks from Henri Giraud, Comte Abbatucci and Domaine de Terrebrune. However, its most exciting offering lies in its namesake Abyss Champagne, a limited-edition cuvée aged under the Atlantic ocean. Made by Champagne Leclerc Briant, and aged in bottle for just over a year off the eastern tip of Ile d’Ouessant in Brittany, the wine is textured, complex and mineral, with honeyed stone fruit notes and a refreshing, saline finish.

As of last summer, Le Barthélemy has also revamped its culinary offerings at Abyss, highlighting a ‘Four Hands’ guest chef series that features famous names such as Judy Joo, Christophe Devoille and Rafael Gomes. For Champagne and food lovers, the time to visit Le Barthélemy is now. lebarthelemyhotel.com

www.cheersandcheese.eu Funded by the European Union. Views and opinions expressed are however those of the author(s) only and do not necessarily reflect those of the European Union or the European Research Executive Agency (REA). Neither the European Union nor the granting authority can be held responsible for them.

COLUMNIST

Andrew Jefford ‘These drinks will cling on to the “wine” name like a climber on a cliff edge’

NoLo may help keep wine producers solvent while they wait for better times – or prepare an orderly exit, if declining wine consumption is a permanent trend.

A more important reason, though, takes us back to weirdness: the disappointing flavour doesn’t matter.

Abstaining drinkers still want the wine experience.

They want the culture, the history, the complexity and the sophistication of wine. They want something that looks like wine, poured from a weighty and portentous container. They want something with the chic and allure of wine. When they pour the drink into a ‘wine glass’, they want to dream of the aroma and flavour complexity of wine.

They want something not too sweet to match food.

They want the wine ritual; they may even want to spend extravagantly, just like real drinkers do for real wine.

The trend is surfing upmarket.

Château Sigalas Rabaud, a Sauternes premier cru classé, will launch a NoLo version later this year; others will follow.

These drinks will cling on to the ‘wine’ name like a climber on a cliff edge, abetted by the wine world at large.

Yes, quality will improve. I had a chance to taste and judge 26 NoLo contenders over the summer; some are much better than others. A sparkle helps fill up the empty middle; so does a little sugar.

Tannin can be a problem; acidity often lacks juiciness; but perfume brings interest, and some subtle oak flavour can help. Among the widely distributed producers in the tasting who succeed in denaturing wine to make soft drinks of modest palatability are Carl Jung, Weingut St Antony, Becksteiner Winzer, Chavin, Levin, Oddbird, La Gioiosa, Torres Natureo and JP Chenet.

I don’t always drink alcohol – and enjoy the ‘time off’. Forget soft drinks prepared with denatured wine; I relish steaming sencha tea, a freshly made citron pressé, an orange juice from Pret or a glass of Vichy Catalan or Ste Yorre water. They all refresh.

They all have a middle.

‘No alcohol: no fermentative complexity’

14 | Decanter | January 2026

Andrew Jefford is a Contributing Editor to Decanter, a DWWA Co-Chair and multiple award-winning author

IN MY GLASS THIS MONTH

A sumptuous winter white for those whose January (like mine) remains undry: the La Pèira Blanc, Pays d’Herault 2022 (£82.80 Corney & Barrow) offers powdery honeyand-mimosa scents.

It’s rich and structured: vinous, vivacious and commanding. The almondy flavours are sustained.

Its core is based on Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier, but Grenache and Clairette sometimes tiptoe into the blend, too. Close harmonies from this sub-Larzac Languedoc benchland.

PHOTOGRAPH NIC CRILLY-HARGRAVE FOR DECANTER

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e live in strange times. How appropriate, then, that the weirdest development ever to affect the wine world is now its hottest trend.

Namely, NoLo (no- and low-alcohol wines).

Definitions of these terms remain fluid; neither the EU nor the UK has yet fixed its terminology, while the USA defines ‘non-alcoholic wine’ as being under 0.5% alcohol by volume and ‘alcohol-free wine’ as being under 0.05% abv. Low-alcohol wine has a wide spread of definitions; best to check the abv on the label rather than relying on generic descriptors. But the trend is scorching. At a time of widely reported declining global sales of wine, sales of no-alcohol wines have been forecast to grow by 7% annually through to 2028, and by 10.4% by 2034. Sales have already risen by 88% between 2021 and 2024.

Why weird? Simple. If you’re used to the taste of wine, these drinks are profoundly disappointing. They taste shallow and empty. Any fresh fruit juice or smoothie blend is richer in flavour and texture, more exciting to drink, more nutritious and generally much cheaper.

Mineral water is as beautifully packaged and more refreshing; it often sparkles, too. Fine tea from China, Japan and India is more complex and satisfying, and accompanies food well (see Fiona Beckett’s feature, p72) – at whatever temperature you wish. Energy drinks and soft drinks offer a parallel universe, from classics such as Coke, 7 Up and Irn-Bru to whacky and ephemeral fantasy creations.

There is no need to drink NoLo wine.

Should these products even be called ‘wine’?

No. The dictionary definition of wine (MerriamWebster in this instance, but all agree) is ‘the alcoholic fermented juice of fresh grapes used as a beverage’. Wine is alcoholic. No alcohol: no fermentative complexity. NoLo alternatives are soft drinks based on denatured wine as an ingredient.

I’m not, though, going to win this nomenclature argument. Here’s why.

The wine world, under siege at present, desperately needs this sales outlet for its grapes.

US COLUMNIST

Katherine Cole ‘Is the real question whether wine regions could shield the rest of us from wildfires?’

thinnest and most vulnerable. Even far, far away from a burn zone, ripe grapes can absorb acrid smoke compounds, making for undrinkable wines that worsen with age. Here in Oregon, energy utility company PacifiCorp recently paid a $125 million settlement to wineries for smoke-taint losses from Oregon’s 2020 Labor Day fires.

Wine-growers also have a secret weapon in the war against wildfire: vine rows. ‘Vineyards provide a good firebreak,’ affirms Oregon climatologist and vintner Greg Jones. Well spaced, high in moisture and low in fuel, vineyards – especially irrigated ones – can slow or even stop the flames’ advance.

Sadly, this was illustrated in the reverse in August this year, when conflagrations swept across the Aude region in southern France. The disaster was aggravated by the recent removal of fire buffer zones in the form of some 5,000ha of wine grapevine plantings, incentivised by subsidies provided by the French Ministry of Agriculture.

So, what now? Searching for answers, I recently called the co-founder of a UC Berkeleyfounded lab developing an AIdriven wildfire-prediction model, called Interlinked, that forecasts ignition risk with remarkable precision in real time, à la the ‘pre-crime unit’ of the 2002 film Minority Report.

But the more I learned, the less relevant predictive technology seemed to be for vineyards. Annual-crop farmers can replant tomatoes or move livestock if warned of an encroaching fire. Wine-growers, whose vines stay in the ground for decades, can’t just rip up and relocate every time the wind changes and an AI model raises an alarm.

Rather, they must be smarter, more strategic, more vigilant. And increasingly, they are. Napa County, for one, is proving that wine regions are not just vulnerable landscapes. They are also filled with people of radical practicality.

‘Vineyards can slow or even stop the advance of flames’

16 | Decanter | January 2026

Katherine Cole is the author of five books on wine, and communications director at creative design and brand strategy agency Vin in Portland, Oregon

IN MY GLASS THIS MONTH

Twice lately, I’ve returned to Portland, Oregon restaurant L’Echelle for Champagne Mouzon Leroux’s L’Incandescent (£55-£70 Lay & Wheeler, Parched, Sip Wines), a Pinot Noir-driven, silex (flint) soil-powered extra brut from biodynamic grower Sébastien Mouzon in the grand cru village of Verzy.

Fourteen hours of maceration make for a saignée rosé that’s a gorgeous ruby colour, with berry, spice and mineral notes that match the heartiest winter fare.

PHOTOGRAPH SHE SAW THINGS

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itting by the hearth with a glass of wine, I’m thinking about fire. Flames may warm my toes now, but they can be devastating in dry months. As wildfires have battered the wine industry in recent years, follow-up reports have largely focused on the damage. But perhaps we’ve missed the larger point. What if the real question isn’t how fires threaten wine, but whether wine regions could shield the rest of us from wildfires?

Consider Napa’s recent transformation from victim to warrior. After the devastating fires of 2017 and 2020, Napa Firewise CEO Joseph Nordlinger and his team identified two barriers to resilience that plague fire-prone regions: fragmented efforts and simple complacency.

In response, the team built a shared-services hub for Napa County, coordinating equipment, planning and funding ‘so we don’t have 23 Fire Safe Councils competing with one another for grant funds’, explains Nordlinger.

Napa Firewise next developed a countywide network of ‘enhanced resilience sites’ – strategically located properties where advancing flame fronts tend to break. Mapped, catalogued and funded from pooled resources, the sites eliminate the costly, time-consuming scouting and set-up typically required after a fire starts.

Now, Cal Fire’s live incident-command system can immediately dispatch crews to these staging sites, with their essential access roads and water sources. Response times have dropped from hours to minutes, saving not just vineyards, but entire communities. During the August 2025 Pickett Fire, firefighters used Napa Firewise enhanced resilience site data to deploy promptly and contain the blaze.

Wine regions are uniquely suited to this approach.

Growers already manage large, contiguous areas that are wild yet accessible via vineyard roads. They already coordinate across property lines, whether for water, disease prevention or ecosystem management.

And they already think in generational terms.

They also have a far-reaching incentive to stay ahead of fire risk. On the US west coast, wildfires often strike during harvest, when grape skins are

GUEST COLUMNIST

Amber Gardner ‘We are seeing a shift back towards the known, the familiar and, ultimately, the comforting’

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momentous shift is taking place in the UK’s wine culture – a swinging back of the pendulum from the wild west of alternative wine culture. While tastes and fashions change, it’s no coincidence that this swing is in parallel to our testing economic times and the world’s rather uncertain socio-political future.

The last decade has seen an explosion in wine’s ‘other’ side – other grapes, regions, countries, styles – and a tearing up of the vinous rule book. But now, we in the trade are seeing a shift back towards the known, the familiar and, ultimately, the comforting, as people seek out recognisable grape varieties and appellations once again.

When I joined the wine trade in 2012, I did so on the foundations of WSET textbook learning and the pillars of Old World regions and grape varieties. Unbeknown to me, international wine culture and, indeed, my own understanding of wine were on the cusp of a profound change. Sauvignon Blanc, Nebbiolo and Riesling were going to start rubbing shoulders with Blaufränkisch, Listán Negro and Terret; wine lists would begin to boast myriad new countries; and styles such as orange, pét-nat and the red-white blended blouge were to become more common. Every season seemed to bring some new, dazzling iteration of what wine was capable of.

Jo Radford, wine buyer for Michelin one-star Timberyard in Edinburgh, and I met almost 10 years ago – two sommeliers immersed in this new-wave scene – at a party thrown by natural wine importer Tutto Wines. Jo recalled that time as ‘a push into this more feral, wild, experimentative world’, but noted: ‘Everyone grew up – us, the restaurant, the scene, the winemakers. Naturally, our tastes began to change.’

As the generation now governing wine lists and buying strategies, is this latest shift in part our fault?

Perhaps we’re feeling more responsible to the guests we serve and the money they spend. When a glass of wine can typically cost £10 plus service charge, there’s real, justifiable sensitivity to what’s poured.

And when prices are so punchy, yet you have no idea

what will turn up in the glass, the constant gamble can begin to feel exhausting.

The ‘scene’ feels like it’s being rightly forced to mature. While recent years have opened our minds and taste buds to wine’s incredible diversity, they also opened the floodgates to mediocre wine dressed up as something natural or alternative.

Of course, mediocrity isn’t unique to this corner of the wine world. But in this new wave we’re beginning to ride, quality and artisanship have become the new cornerstones. Justé Karbauskaité, wine director for Morchella and Perilla restaurants in London, argues that the ever-rising cost of wine has seen quality, consistency and recognisability becoming the key factors for guests, as well as buyers themselves. Jo says it has become a joy to ‘dig deep into traditional appellations, exploring the best that these regions can do and the depths the different grape varieties can express, while staying within the boundaries’, all the while appreciating that ‘in regions like this, there is comfort and a clear association of quality and money well spent’.

Across the board, my peers agree that consumers are more knowledgeable and comfortable discussing wine and engaging in the details behind the label.

Oliver Fletcher, head sommelier of Climat in Manchester, said that people are more curious about the nitty gritty of the winemakers and their vineyards, ‘because these things all give colour and authenticity to their experience drinking the wine’.

As we turn back to well-trodden paths, I believe it will happen with a renewed demand for excellence and transparency. Our best-loved regions will no longer be able to rest on their laurels. Our swing into the world of natural and alternative wine will leave in its wake a consciousness around sustainable farming, indigenous grape varieties and artisanship that will continue well into the future.

‘The constant gamble can begin to feel exhausting’

18 | Decanter | January 2026

Amber Gardner is a wine buyer, agent and writer based in the south of France. A former sommelier, she authors monthly Substack Amber Wine

IN MY GLASS THIS MONTH

Many wine professionals have a love-hate relationship with Sauvignon Blanc – which has fallen prey to mass production and perceptions of being a little passé. Yet some producers are revitalising and reimagining it in classic regions.

Alexandre Bain in Pouilly-Fumé pushes the variety’s limits. His 2018 L d’Ange Vin de France cuvée (£47 Berry Bros & Rudd), grown on limestone and aged four years before bottling, brings a wine filled with lime, spice and a salty backbone.

Seductive and surprising.

THE ETHICAL DRINKER

‘As I reflected on the past year, I found myself revisiting the wines & people that made me stop and think’ NATALIE EARL DECANTER SUSTAINABILITY EDITOR

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s I sit down to write the first column of 2026, I’ve realised that I never really addressed its title: ‘The ethical drinker’.

What does ‘ethical drinking’ actually mean? Does it relate more to the act of drinking alcohol, or to the product itself?

There isn’t really a straight answer to this, as it’s probably a bit of both: an awareness of the way we consume, a curiosity about the wines we choose, their provenance and their wider impact, and acting on this curiosity and awareness in our buying behaviours.

As I reflected on the topics covered over the last year – from labour standards, bees and biochar to the importance of community, the health of the oceans and packaging – I found myself revisiting the wines and people that made me stop and think; wines that challenged assumptions about flavour, or of farming standards; people who prompted me to widen the lens beyond my enjoyment of what’s in the glass. That is what this column is all about. So here I’m highlighting three bottles – and the experiences that went with them – that made me think, question or act.

I finally managed to visit Tim Phillips at his tiny garage winery in Lymington in southern England, on the one day of the year that he opens his doors.

A deeply thoughtful and curious man, Tim treats each vintage – indeed each week – as a precious opportunity to learn, grow and tweak. Just 4km from the coast, amid orchards, woodland and vegetable gardens, he tends a tiny walled vineyard of Riesling, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. This wine was a real revelation, one that feels like a beautiful tribute to its balanced ecosystem, carrying aromas of lime zest, rye bread, quince paste and crushed rock, and a long, textured finish. It’s quietly compelling and will take many years to unfurl. Drink 2025-2035 Alc 11%

‘The wine feels like a tribute to its balanced ecosystem’

Maxime Magnon, La Bégou Corbières Blanc, Languedoc, France 2019 98 £44.40-£45.25 (2022) Parched, Roberson France’s largest wildfire in more than 70 years rampaged through the Corbières region in early August 2025, burning more than 17,000ha of land a few weeks before harvest. Residents lost homes, one person lost their life, and many growers suffered catastrophic vineyard losses. I opened this bottle of Maxime Magnon’s white Corbières in solidarity with those affected. Despite the sombre motivation, the wine was beautiful: fragrant with beeswax and almond oil, linden flowers and honeysuckle, its texture like fine lace, carried by a keen saline bolt through the finish. Drink 2025-2030 Alcohol 12.5%

Charlie Herring Wines, Promised Land Riesling, Hampshire, England 2022 95 £40 The Solent Cellar

20 | Decanter | January 2026

Domaine Lissner, Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Altenberg de Wolxheim, Alsace, France 2023 95 lissner.fr

Spending a day with Bruno Schloegel of Domaine Lissner in Wolxheim, Alsace, was eyeopening. His approach (a Masanobu Fukuokainspired, ‘do-nothing’ style of farming) is unlike anything I’ve encountered. One way to describe it is simply ‘wild’. But that does a disservice to the intricate interplay of animal, vine, earth, mycorrhizae and, of course, human intention. It was March, and the vines’ spindly cordons were still unpruned. Some trunks were so covered in ivy that the bark was no longer visible; some vines were trained up fruit trees.

Countless plant species thrive under the vines and between the rows, hinting at the vast biodiversity below ground. Bruno readily admits that yields are low – reduced by competition among the plants and losses to disease in some years – but eliminating chemical inputs and a reduced need for labour makes it economically viable. We picked wild leeks from between the rows, which Bruno later used on the tarte flambée he cooked us for lunch. This Gewurztraminer was electric.

Spicy, immediate and precise, with orange blossom, mango and grapefruit-tinged acidity.

Drink 2025-2035 Alc 13.5% White wines

Singapore Fine Wine Encounter 2025

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter returned to Singapore for its second year, welcoming almost 600 wine lovers to the stunning Shangri-La hotel. On 22 November, guests enjoyed wine from 52 world-class producers, from Japan’s delicate Koshu to Dassai’s premium sake, and attended Masterclasses on Henschke, Brunello di Montalcino and Château Margaux. New for 2025, the Editors’ Lunch offered the chance to connect with Decanter editors, adding another highlight to a day celebrating the very best of fine wine

PHOTOGRAPHS SYAFIQ ABDUL LATIFF (APIT)/ COLOSSAL PRODUCTIONS

1 Alexis Leven-Mentzelopoulos, co-owner and CEO of Château Margaux, and Georgie Hindle, Decanter’s Regional Editor for Bordeaux, led the sold-out ‘Four Decades of Château Margaux’ Masterclass 2 Castello di Volpaia’s Federica Mascheroni Stianti brought a taste of Tuscany to Singapore with the Coltassala Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2017 3 Fabio Solenthaler of Château d’Esclans presenting Rock Angel rosé from Provence 4 Gerald Lu, president of the Sommelier Association of Singapore, and James Button, Decanter’s Regional Editor for

Italy, explore two vintages a decade apart in the Brunello di Montalcino Masterclass 5 Guests enjoying a great day out 6 Just a few of the wines available for tasting at the Bodegas Muga stand 7 Winemaker and viticulturist Johann Henschke, with Decanter Content Director Tina Gellie, took guests through the family’s new-release 2021 Eden Valley single-vineyard wines, as well as older vintages, in the Henschke Masterclass 8 Dassai made its Fine Wine Encounter debut, captivating attendees with its range of premium sakes 9 Some of this year’s

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22 | Decanter | January 2026

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DWWA medal-winning wines were poured at the dedicated tasting table 10 Enjoying a lighthearted moment 11 Julie Sheppard, Decanter’s Regional Editor for Australia, New Zealand & South Africa, with guests before the Editors’ Lunch 12 Koshu Wines of Japan took centre stage, offering wines from nine producers across three stands in the Grand Tasting 13 An attendee examining subtle colour differences in a pair of wines 14 Sommelier and DWWA judge Devon Lochhead sets up the Boschendal and Bellingham stand before the Grand Tasting

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Decanter | January 2026 | 23

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Editors’ highlights

24 | Decanter | January 2026

As you finish up your festive chocolate assortments, we bring you our own selection of favourites. From a year’s worth of tastings, Decanter’s Regional Editors have picked out 65 wines from across the globe, all scoring between 95 and 100 points.

Now, which one to choose first…

INTRODUCTION TINA GELLIE

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themselves; other scores and notes have been provided by our global band of expert contributors. But all have featured either on the pages of Decanter magazine or on our Decanter Premium or Decanter.com online channels over the 12-month qualifying period (after which the process of nominating and whittling down to reach

f the 2,999 wines rated 95 points or more in the 12 months to the end of October 2025, just 30 – equating to 0.01% – earned the perfect 100-point score. And while a few of them feature on the pages that follow, Decanter’s Wines of the Year was never intended to be a copycat annual countdown of the highest scorers, or a simple list only rewarding perfection.

It is, as we say in our headline, the regional highlights for 2025. Our team of Regional Editors have selected five wines from across each of their respective areas of expertise, all scoring 95 points and above, to showcase the quality and diversity on offer across the wine world.

Some of the 65 wines they’ve tasted

‘Venture into new territories, explore unexpected grapes, challenge your preconceptions’

the final annual selection had to begin).

And each of these 65 bottles – plus the 2,934 others scoring 95 points or more, and indeed any of the 100,000-plus wines in our database – has a unique story to tell of the place, the people and their passion for wine. What’s inside the glass matters far more than a number.

So I would encourage you to use our Wines of the Year regional highlights as a starting point for your own voyage of discovery for 2026. Venture into new territories, explore unexpected grapes, challenge your preconceptions and, regardless of the rating, may you find a bounty of new bottles that give you immense drinking pleasure.

Happy new year from all of us here at Decanter.

ILLUSTRATION ULLA PUGGAARD/CENTRAL ILLUSTRATION AGENCY. NUMBERS FARBA KOLEROVA/GETTY IMAGES

Decanter’s team of Regional Editors, who make the Wines of the Year selection

James Button Italy

Natalie Earl France (excluding Bordeaux)

Ines Salpico Spain, Portugal & South America

Georgie Hindle Bordeaux, and Decanter Premium Editor

Julie Sheppard Australia, New Zealand & South Africa, and Decanter Spirits Editor

Clive Pursehouse North America

Sylvia Wu Asia, Northern & Eastern Europe, and Decanter China Editor

Decanter | January 2026 | 25

Bordeaux

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t’s not every year that a vintage like 2022 rolls around. Despite the year’s unprecedented hot, dry conditions – including three extreme-heat events that occurred during June, July and August – it ultimately delivered some fabulous wines with freshness, charm and mass appeal. Sure, Bordeaux has had some excellent vintages in recent years, but not since 2016 has a vintage captivated as 2022 has, with the in-bottle tastings in 2025 reaffirming what an incredible selection of wines are on offer.

From the nine wines rated 100 points during 2025 (six of which were from 2022), three have made this list, with two of the eight 99pt wines (seven of them from 2022) joining them. I’ve bypassed the perennial first-growth giants and Right Bank titans (Petrus, Lafleur) to spotlight estates that, in this vintage, touched perfection while staying (just) within reach of collectors.

In my view, these wines not only showcase the high quality across appellations, with both sides of the river covered, but they’re all among the best I’ve ever tasted from their respective estates.

They may not be wines for immediate consumption, but they will certainly reward patience and would make fine additions to any cellar.

Other top-performers during 2025 came from the lauded 2015, 2016, 2018 and 2019 vintages, with a few 1985s among the stars showcasing the power of Bordeaux’s best vintages. In total, 247 wines – red, white and sweet – scored 95pts or above from 26 vintages from 2024 back to 1945 across all major and lesser-known appellations, showing Bordeaux’s universal appeal.

Georgie Hindle, Regional Editor

across the palate with finesse and vibrancy.

A wine of energy, persistence and sheer sophistication. Tasted by Georgie Hindle Drink 2028-2050 Alcohol 14.5%

4 Château Montrose, St-Estèphe 2CC, Bordeaux, France 2022 99

£127 (ib)-£235.50 Abingdon Fine Wine, Averys, Bordeaux Index, Crop & Vine, Cru, Farthinghoe, L’Assemblage, Lay & Wheeler,

Château La Conseillante, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France 2022 100 2

£210 (ib)-£344 Averys, Avint-Garde, Burnett & Herbert, Cru, Goedhuis Waddesdon, Grand Vin UK, Justerini & Brooks, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima

The best La Conseillante I’ve tasted. 87% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc. Intensely fragrant, juicy, bright and alive. Relaxed and silky, with summer berries and a cooling finish of blueberry, liquorice, crushed stones, slate and minty cola. A captivating wine in which every element sings in harmony. Vibrant, joyful and delicious now, but destined to age beautifully. Georgie Hindle Drink 2029-2050 Alc 14% 3 Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan CCG, Bordeaux, France 2022 100 O

£90 (ib)-£171.30 Widely available 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Deep and evocative, this bursts with blackcurrant, milk chocolate and floral perfume. Instantly captivating, the palate’s silky yet structured, with tannins seamlessly supporting vibrant red and black berries. Broad and powerful, it glides with cool spiced fruit, a mineral core adding complexity with flint-like nuances. A masterclass in power and balance. Georgie Hindle Drink 2029-2050 Alc 14.5%

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Millésima, Nickolls & Perks

66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Deep and heady fragrance. Sumptuous and seductive, with a charged palate full of sun-kissed fruit and liquorice spice, pristine cherry and blackcurrant, and a vein of salty, crushed stone and iron minerality. Gorgeous acidity keeps the profile lifted, almost airy. So well constructed, this has muscles and serious power, but within a sleek frame and a delicate chalky touch on the finish. Georgie Hindle Drink 2030-2050 Alc 14.5% 5 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac 2CC, Bordeaux, France 2022 99

£140 (ib)-£295 Widely available 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Shiny and striking, this delights from the first sip. Really quite mineral, it’s sleek and classically styled, with no overt ripeness of fruit, although there’s concentration in the frame and power that thrusts the flavours forward.

Detailed and joyous, it’s pent-up with muscles and tension, but where other wines are showcasing that brawn now, this also delivers a ton of juicy acidity and lift that makes this so joyful. I love it. Georgie Hindle Drink 2030-2050 Alc 13.5%

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1 Château Angélus, St-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France 2022 100 O

£350 (ib)-£469.50 Averys, Berry Bros & Rudd, Capital Vintners, Cru, Farr Vintners, Ideal Wine Co, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima

One of the finest Angélus wines ever made.

60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc. On the palate it’s silky, scintillating and fresh, with a crystalline clarity and balance that feels almost effortless. Chalky yet creamy tannins add depth, while flashes of liquorice spice on the finish bring structure and length. Incredibly moreish, this dances

26 | Decanter | January 2026

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WINES OF THE YEAR

Burgundy

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omaine de la Romanée-Conti represented five of the six highest-scoring Burgundy wines in 2025. A fantastic achievement, but not necessarily a surprising one. Likewise, the highest-scorer in this quintet may not shock you, dear reader, as Domaine Armand Rousseau is one of Burgundy’s greatest. In our correspondent Charles Curtis MW’s en primeur reporting (see January 2025 issue), he called its Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru ‘one of the greatest Burgundy wines of the 2023 vintage’.

The elegance and finesse of the wines from Domaine Anne Gros became apparent in Curtis’ profile published on Decanter Premium online in October, and her Richebourg Grand Cru 2009 is showing beautifully.

A fairly new project, Domaine Alvina Pernot has shot to star status, and Curtis finds her Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru to be one of the jewels of the hill of Corton, while the ‘wizard of Chablis’ Vincent Dauvissat unveiled a ‘stupendous’ Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos in the 2023 vintage.

The three judges in our Cru Beaujolais 2022 panel tasting (March 2025 issue) were floored by the quality on show, and among the 13 wines rated Outstanding, the tiny estate of Antoine Sunier really knocked their socks off, with two wines scoring 95 points. The inclusion of Sunier’s Régnié in this selection speaks volumes about the ability of the Beaujolais crus to offer superb terroir focus, complexity and charm.

Natalie Earl, Regional Editor

6 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, Burgundy, France 2023 96

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substance to age for decades. Charles Curtis MW Drink 2028-2090 Alc N/A

7 Alvina Pernot, CortonCharlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, France 2023 95

US$1,288 Thatcher’s Wine Powerfully aromatic, with notes of ripe plum and blackberry with hints of earth, saline minerality and savoury roast meat.

The texture is dense and lush, but the tannins are well managed, and there is no heaviness, just supple fruit that leads into a rich, long finish. While it’s starting to drink now, one should hold for another five years and drink over the following 40. Charles Curtis MW Drink 2030-2065 Alc 13.5%

£265-£320 (ib) Capital Vintners, Cru, Ideal Wine Co, Vinum

US$450-$524 JJ Buckley, K&L, Saratoga Wine Exchange, The Wine Cellarage, Tribeca Wine Merchants, Westgarth Wines, Wine Empire

Compellingly lovely, boasting lush, dense aromas of apricot, quince and nectarine. The texture is rich, almost fat, but makes up in power what it gives up in nervous Puligny energy. The ferment is done in used casks to maximise the fruit purity. Among the jewels of the hill of Corton. Charles Curtis MW Drink 2028-2050 Alc 13.5%

Ideal Wine Co, Lay & Wheeler, Vinum

domaine-rousseau.com

Plucky Wines, Saratoga Wine Exchange,

Among the greatest Burgundy wines of the 2023 vintage. Seductively ripe black cherry and plum aromas are adorned with hints of rose petals, spice and earth. A delightful fruit sweetness on the palate is balanced by firm structure. Tasted from barrel, the tannins were prominent, but according to Cyrielle Rousseau, these are wood tannins that will integrate with time. Has immediate appeal, yet it also has the fruit, balance and

Thatcher’s Wine, Tribeca Wine Merchants

Relatively closed when tasted from the barrel – imposing and powerful, but not seductive. A year after bottling it blossomed into a stupendous wine, showing notes of ripe apricot, quince, marzipan and hay. A substantial wine, with enormous amounts of extract and just enough acidity to balance it out. ‘Chewy’ is how Dauvissat described White

Red wines

9 Anne Gros, Richebourg Grand Cru, Burgundy, France 2009 97

10 Antoine Sunier, Régnié, Beaujolais, France 2022 95 O

£16.50 (ib) Flint Wines US$26-$34 Grand Wine Cellar, Marketview Liquor, Scarsdale Wine

US$400-$440 Bottle Shop NJ, Hart David Hart,

Christopher Keiller, Cru, Four Walls, Jeroboams,

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it, as if one wanted a knife and fork. This is special wine, but it’s far from ready to drink.

Tasted by Charles Curtis MW Drink 2040-2080 Alcohol 13%

Armand Rousseau, ChambertinClos de Bèze Grand Cru, Burgundy, France 2023 99

£217 (ib)-£345 Alliance Wine, Capital Vintners,

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From about 3ha of vines at about 350m, the wine maturing for seven months in concrete tank and older barrique. Andy Howard MW: Initially quite straightforward on the palate, but there’s good purity and it develops in the glass. Refreshing, with leafy floral notes.

Melania Battiston: A Pinot Noir-like nose with Beaujolais features of elegant rose and hibiscus, orange zest and crushed cranberry.

Lifted and ethereal. Victoria Daskal: Violet, damson and warm caramel aromas. Almost dainty as it dances across your palate.

Exceptional quality. Decanter panel tasting Drink 2026-2027 Alc 12.5%

Decanter | January 2026 | 27

Rhône

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rom the five Rhône wines that scored 100 points throughout 2025, two make this list, from either end of the valley and from slightly older vintages: Clape’s 2010 Cornas and Beaucastel’s 2014 white Châteauneuf. Both are still on the market, so prospective buyers or those lucky enough to have them in their cellar will be richly rewarded.

M Chapoutier’s white Hermitage L’Ermite is a fine showing from the tricky and varied 2024 vintage, which you can read about in our extensive en primeur coverage in the upcoming Decanter February issue. While 2024 Hermitage reds are less powerful than you might expect, it’s the whites that reign supreme.

Château de Saint Cosme’s Le Claux warranted inclusion here, not just for its score of 97 points but also as a great representation of the heights that Gigondas continues to reach – and Saint Cosme is undoubtedly one of the best in the appellation.

Given that he’s a winemaker who has been cited as inspiration for other winemakers I’ve spoken to more times than I can count, Eric Pfifferling’s wines are still possible to come by, although they do sell out rather quickly. A wine that is ‘tremulous and beautiful’, Domaine l’Anglore’s Tavel Les Sables simply had to make the cut for this year’s Wines of the Year selection.

Natalie Earl, Regional Editor 11 Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes Roussanne, Rhône, France 2014 100

£83.33 (ib) Berry Bros & Rudd Lovely open nose of almond, quince jelly and poached pears, which are repeated on the palate, with a touch of saffron.

Delightful sense of tension, it’s very fresh and saline. Winemaker César Perrin says it smells ‘like opening a beehive’. It has now arrived at its mineral phase and is drinking brilliantly. From a single parcel of Roussanne, planted in 1919 and grown biodynamically. Aged in one-year-old demi-muids and barriques. Tasted by Matt Walls Drink 2026-2052 Alcohol 14% 12 M Chapoutier, L’Ermite Hermitage Blanc, Rhône, France 2024 99 B

28 | Decanter | January 2026

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‘In Hermitage, it’s the 2024 white wines that reign supreme ’

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It’s a tempestuous style, both ferric and violet-tinged at the same time. A great vintage for Clape, a soaring wine. Matt Walls Drink 2026-2045 Alc 14% 14 Château de Saint Cosme, Le Claux Gigondas, Rhône, France 2023 97

£75 (ib) Lay & Wheeler US$135-$170 Allendale, Finding.wine, Myrtle, Solano Cellars, Total Wine & More, Wine Solutions

£283.33-£309 (ib) Farr Vintners, Millésima Immediately very savoury in aroma, showing notes of bay leaf, thyme, fleur de sel and petrichor. This 2024 has plenty of body for L’Ermite, and is a very complete and well balanced wine. It’s just the essence of granite – so upright, so salty, so tense.

There’s freshness, too, no heaviness. A very good vintage has produced a classic Ermite.

The grapes were harvested in three passes at the beginning, middle and end of September, since the vineyard is spread across different elevations. Matt Walls Drink 2027-2054 Alc 13.7% 13 Domaine Clape, Cornas, Rhône, France 2010 100

£225 (ib)-£375 Cru, Farr Vintners, Hedonism, Lay & Wheeler, Sommelier’s Choice

An exceptional vintage in the northern Rhône has produced a very full, lush and ripe style here. This has all the tannin and structure you could hope for, and it’s searingly fresh, revealing delicious juicy berry fruits and an exceptionally long finish.

Plum and damson fruit with Christmas spicing. Full-bodied, fully concentrated and fresh, with wonderful textural finesse. It’s powerful without being heavy and has great intensity, vibrancy and a long finish. The oak work is still integrating, but will do so in time. Grown on yellow marls, whole-bunch fermented with natural yeasts in concrete, then aged in barrels of various ages. Matt Walls Drink 2030-2043 Alc 15.5% 15 Domaine l’Anglore, Les Sables Tavel, Rhône, France 2023 97 O

US$70 Rue Pinard Pale red, darker than l’Anglore’s other Tavel cuvées this year. Raspberry and wild strawberry. Has a bit more generosity on the palate, which delivers great salinity, energy, intensity and vibrancy. Tremulous and beautiful, this is a great Tavel. Organic, harvested by hand, carbonic maceration, no filtration, malolactic completed. Matt Walls Drink 2026-2038 Alc 13.5%

O Organic B Biodynamic

WINES OF THE YEAR

Champagne & rest of France

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n just a short time, young Adrien Dhondt has become a secondgeneration Champagne paragon: his wines are some of the most sought-after in the region. Les Nogers Cuis 1er Cru is included here for the impression it made on Champagne correspondent Tom Hewson, who profiled Champagne Dhondt-Grellet on Decanter Premium online in October 2025.

Meanwhile, the rosé Champagne category offers a panoply of styles and colours, but as they’re often priced above their white counterparts, they’re frequently overlooked and misunderstood. The reality is there are plenty of serious rosé Champagnes that are exemplary wines in their own right, showing great technical finesse, impressive complexity and potential for long ageing. Laurent-Perrier’s Alexandra rosé is the perfect example of this; an icon of its style.

Beyond Champagne, it will come as no surprise to see the Loire’s Sauvignon stronghold Sancerre on this list. The 2020 Les Ruchons from Henri Bourgeois was one of Beverley Blanning MW’s favourites in her exploration of Sancerre’s revival (see July 2025 issue).

Finally, it may seem quite the coup to feature Bandol and Corsica alongside these French stalwarts, yet it’s thoroughly well deserved. Corsican wines are increasingly turning heads, with more making their way to UK shores. And in our panel tasting featuring Provence whites (May 2025 issue),

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Bandol stood out as the most exciting source appellation.

Natalie Earl, Regional Editor 16 Dhondt-Grellet, Les Nogers Cuis 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne, France 2019 96

£141.67-£148 (ib) Avint-Garde, Cru, In Vino Veritas

Adrien Dhondt’s Les Nogers parcel yields a racy, complex and dynamic blanc de blancs.

The sumptuous beauty of the 2019 vintage is tempered with coolness, salinity and gentle oak structuring. Apricot kernel, tangerine and turmeric spice glide alongside the subtle textural richness, and it finishes with a dancing length of sweet spice and ripe bittersweet citrus. A compelling delicacy and subtlety play beneath the stylistic breadth. Tasted by Tom Hewson Drink 2026-2032 Alcohol 13% 17 Laurent-Perrier, Alexandra Grande Cuvée Rosé, Champagne, France, 2012 97

£338-£352 Bottled & Boxed, Champagne

deepening richness, evocative of plum with edges of gaminess. A most gastronomic yet elegant Champagne, made for ageing. Anne Krebiehl MW Drink 2026-2040 Alc 12.5% 18 Domaine Ray-Jane, Bandol Tradition Blanc, Provence, France 2023 95 O

£34.95 AG Wines, Christopher Keiller, Raeburn Fine Wine

For this cuvée, 90% Clairette and 10% Ugni Blanc sourced from vines up to 80 years old are fermented together, in stainless steel tanks. The estate has been certified organic since 2009. Elizabeth Gabay MW: Creamy herbal aromas. Toffee apples on the palate.

Rich, complex and lush fruit with vibrant mineral acidity. Natasha Hughes MW: Limpid, textural wine with notes of baked pear, fennel, salted preserved lemons. Brisk, long and quite complex. Joanna Simon: Delicate, mineral and spicy with apple and lemon zing. Fine-boned structure and developing texture. Decanter panel tasting Drink 2026-2030 Alc 13%

Direct, Champagne King, Hedonism, Millésima, The Champagne Co, The Whisky Exchange, Urban Drinks UK

The nose brims with fragrant strawberry and a lovely touch of forest floor, immediately marking this out for the table.

The palate comes with Laurent-Perrier’s customary tautness and freshness, edged with mouthwatering and aromatic blood orange notions, bright acidity and a

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19 Henri Bourgeois, Les Ruchons Sancerre, Loire, France, 2020 95

£45 Millésima This cuvée comes from a 1ha plot of 55-year-old vines, and it’s a classic expression of the flint (silex) soils. Fullbodied, with an intensely mineral personality and a compelling, almost sour-lemony, stony acidity. Fermentation and ageing is in stainless steel and large oak barrels, with regular stirring of the lees to add natural richness and power to the wine. Structured and simply delicious. Beverley Blanning MW Drink 2026-2032 Alc 14% 20 Clos Canarelli, Figari Rosé, Corsica, France, 2023 95

£33 Millésima Soft and mellow, with delicate autumnal scents of orchard fruit that gradually become rounded and a touch creamy.

Spiced baked apple and date flavours pulse outwards with pear and a nutty complexity creeping in. A little note of beeswax and almond oil, too, and a full-bodied, oily texture. A fine rosé, high-class, full of character, structured and serious with potentially years of ageing ahead of it.

Natalie Earl Drink 2026-2030 Alc 13.5% White

Rosé

Red wines

Decanter | January 2026 | 29

WINES OF THE YEAR

Piedmont & Northern Italy

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he northern Italy shortlist for Wines of the Year 2025 was dominated by Barolo; I’ve only picked one however, despite such a strong showing, in order to ensure that other northerly winemaking regions are also represented.

Conterno’s Monfortino Riserva is an object of desire for Barolo lovers, and its lofty reputation is solidified by a perfect score from Michaela Morris, DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont and author of our Barolo vintage report (see June 2025 issue).

Other high achievers of note this year include GB Burlotto’s epic Monvigliero Barolo 2021 (99 points), and a clutch of impeccable releases from Borgogno, Oddero and Bruno Giacosa; the latter’s Barbarescos were also very impressive, as you may expect from this benchmark producer. But it is Paitin’s Sorì Paitin Vecchie Vigne Riserva 2020 that claims the spot as the top-scoring Barbaresco of the year – and one of our Wines of the Year.

Elsewhere, in the northeast, Terlano’s I Primo 2019 blend is testament to the experience and dedication of winemaker Rudi Kofler. Despite only having a handful of vintages under its belt – first vintage, 2011 – I Primo has entered the elite top echelon of Italian white wines. Across in Lombardy, Monte Rossa’s Cabochon is a powerful and concentrated Chardonnayled Franciacorta sparkling which wowed our judges at a panel tasting held in late 2024 (see December 2024 issue).

Lastly, back over in Veneto, Bertani’s Amarone Classico 2015 effortlessly juxtaposes all of the depth and richness of Valpolicella’s flagship style with almost unbelievable levels of elegance.

James Button, Regional Editor

Monte Rossa, Cabochon Fuoriserie No025 Brut, Franciacorta, Lombardy, Italy NV 95 21

£60 Christopher Keiller The top Franciacorta from the Monte Rossa estate, blending 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, initially fermented in 250L oak barrels then aged for 36 months on lees, with 20% reserve wine and just 1g/L dosage. Andy Howard MW: Very lactic nose. Generous and mouthfilling with lots of appeal. Jason Millar: Butter and cream, fine bubbles and cushiony length. Genuine

30 | Decanter | January 2026

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acidity and freshness to the ripe stone fruit and white peach, a touch of white chocolate.

Federico Moccia: Bruised apple, camomile and peach nose. Good concentration and character, nice vibrancy. Decanter panel tasting Drink 2026-2030 Alcohol 12.5% 22 Cantina Terlano, I Primo Grande Cuvée, Alto Adige Terlano, Italy 2019 99

£216 Waud Handford, WoodWinters Blend of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvignon. A wonderfully perfumed nose of ginger and pear, with jasmine and strong philadelphus notes, plus a hint of mandarin.

Beautifully balanced with fine but not intrusive acidity, it showcases a floral and mineral finish of notable length. Beautiful now but will keep, too. Utterly charming.

Michael Garner Drink 2026-2040 Alc 14%

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£90 (ib)-£149 Cru, Drinks Direct, Ideal Wine Co, Loki Wine, London End Wines, Millésima, NY Wines, The Fine Wine Co, The Great Wine Co

US$150-$200 Widely available nationally Comforting aromas of dusty wood, dried red fruits, dark chocolate and subtle floral lift lead to a superbly textural and airy palate, which gives energy and space to the concentrated red and black fruits. Breezy and fragrant, lifted and poised, it’s a masterclass of harmony and elegance, with a lovely salty edge and some crunchy berries. The complexity will come with time.

James Button Drink 2026-2050 Alc 15.5% 25 Paitin, Sorì Paitin Vecchie Vigne Barbaresco Riserva Serraboella, Piedmont, Italy, 2020 97

23 Giacomo Conterno, Monfortino Barolo Riserva, Piedmont, Italy, 2019 100

£40 (ib)-£49.50 Asset Wines, Avint-Garde, Cru,

£603-£916 (ib) Asset Wines, Berry Bros &

Sec Wines, Sommbox, The Grapevine, The Wine

Ideal Wine Co, The Wine Society

US$58-$85 Chester Fine Wines, Citarella, MrD,

Rudd, Brunswick, Cru, Fine & Rare, Honest Grapes,

Feed, Total Wine & More

Ideal Wine Co

The epitome of savoury austerity yet clean and vibrant; haunting from start to finish.

A bouquet of porcini mushroom, ginseng, cranberry tea, graphite and orange oil introduces a super-tangy palate that packs sinewy power with profound depth. Lots of chew, yet without hard edges or extra weight. Concluding notes of tar and allspice hint at what’s to come. Michaela Morris Drink 2027-2042 Alc 14%

US$950-$1,400 Widely available nationally Hints at black tea, truffle and wet earth. The tannins are still rigid and stubborn, though very sophisticated and inseparable from the fruit, while the acidity is simply salivating.

Glimpses of baked earth, granite and graphite appear but, truly, this will take years to unfold. For now, it’s all iron fist.

Michaela Morris Drink 2030-2050 Alc 15%

White

Red wines

Tuscany & Southern Italy

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trong showings from Montalcino, Chianti Classico and Bolgheri this year made the Tuscan selection for Wines of the Year very tough. Masseto 2006 received my first ever perfect score when I tasted it alongside other vintages at a rare tasting in November 2024, so naturally it had to be included.

Our regular Italy contributor and DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont Michaela Morris was awestruck by the single-cask Poggio di Sotto Brunello Riserva 2019 – our joint top-scoring Brunello Riserva from the year’s releases – describing it as ‘a masterpiece of proportionality’. Although we absolutely must recognise the 99pt Cerretalto Brunello di Montalcino 2019 from Casanova di Neri, as well as the 98pt Riservas from Baricci, Biondi-Santi, Fuligni and Il Marroneto.

In the Maremma, coastal southern Tuscany, impressive results are being achieved at Le Pupille following a process of transition as Elisabetta Geppetti’s son Ettore Rizzi brings the winemaking in-house. He’s taking over from the highly regarded consultant Luca D’Attoma, with whom he worked while he fine-tuned his own craft. Ettore’s third vintage flying solo is crowned by an absolutely stunning 2022 Saffredi Toscana Rosso.

Moving further south, in Sicily we reach Pietradolce’s Barbagalli vineyard on Etna.

For me, this is a bona-fide grand cru, with the consistency, complexity and wow-factor

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you might expect to find in the finest sites of Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits or Piedmont’s Langhe, combining finesse and structure to great effect. Our sole white selection this year comes from the island of Sardinia – Siddùra’s Maìa took the top accolade, by a significant margin, at our ‘Tuscany vs Sardinia’ Vermentino panel tasting early in the year (see April 2025 issue), exemplifying the quality inherent in the small DOCG of Vermentino di Gallura when done right.

James Button, Regional Editor

lead into a succulent and fleshy mouthful of dark cherry and black and blue berries, with delicate floral overtones. Broad and silky, brought perfectly into focus by intense but not overpowering acidity and a vein of salinity that runs through the core, providing a lipsmackingly sapid finish. Impeccably harmonious and persistent. Tasted by James Button Drink 2026-2051 Alc 15% 28 Le Pupille, Saffredi, Tuscany, Italy 2022 98

£57.50 (ib)-£112 Abingdon Fine Wine, Armit,

Siddùra, Maìa Vermentino di Gallura Superiore, Sardinia, Italy 2023 95 26

£27 Sardinia Wine The best bunches from the sandy granitebased vineyard are fermented and the wine aged on lees in stainless steel tanks, with a small portion maturing for a few months in French oak barrels. Jason Millar: Ripe orchard fruits, lemon rind and grapefruit pith with some smart oak and spice notes. Celery and green olive, attractively savoury. Vincenzo Arnese: Fresh, crispy and zesty, rich with a nice lemony feel. Michael Garner: Fragrance and lift, lightly nutty and waxy, juicy with good length and precision. Decanter panel tasting Drink 2026-2030 Alcohol 13.5%

Banquist, Cru, Hedonism, Ideal Wine Co, Millésima

US$120-$170 Widely available nationally 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, fermented in stainless steel tanks and matured for 18 months in 70% new French oak barriques. Mentholinfused dark berry aromas open the door to an intense and juicy mouthful of precisely wrought red and black berries and cherries.

Wonderful lipsmacking sapidity and finely integrated tannins complete the package.

James Button Drink 2026-2048 Alc 14.5% 29 Poggio di Sotto, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Tuscany, Italy, 2019 98 O

£217.17 (ib)-£374.50 Asset Wines, AvintGarde, Cru, Decorum Vintners, Ideal Wine Co,

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Masseto, Tuscany, Italy, 2006 100

£869-£1,033 (ib) Brunswick, Crop & Vine, Cru, Lay & Wheeler, Marlo Wine

US$1,400-$1,800 Widely available nationally Fragrant scents of potpourri and forest floor

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US$500-$675 Widely available nationally Furtive waftes of gingerbread, juniper and clove, zesty citrus providing a countering snap. Still densely tightknit, it charges the mouth with steely yet elegantly sculpted tannins and brisk acidity. Pure, dark berry fruit is lying in wait to flesh out the structure as it begins to come together and emerge over time. A masterpiece of proportionality, to tuck away in the cellar. Michaela Morris Drink 2028-2044 Alc 13.5% 30 Pietradolce, Barbagalli Rosso, Etna, Sicily, Italy 2020 96 O

POA £ Armit One of Etna’s finest red wines, and although it’s still youthful, the potential is clear.

Creamy dark fruit aromas with herbal lift lead to a bold and powerful palate offering a complexity of blackberry, cherry, grilled herbs, wood and spice notes, all with a creamy undertow. The incisive acidity brings some menthol freshness to proceedings.

James Button Drink 2026-2040 Alc 14%

32 | Decanter | January 2026

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WINES OF THE YEAR

Rioja

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his was the year to fall in love with Rioja all over again. The DOCa marked its 100th anniversary – a momentous celebration that served as a reminder, on the one hand, of the region’s long winemaking tradition (going much further back than these 100 years) and, on the other, of its capacity to evolve and remain not merely relevant but firmly at the forefront of contemporary wine.

Serendipitously coinciding with the centenary, the inaugural Decanter Rioja report (in the May issue’s annual Rioja supplement) allowed us to experience, first hand and in great depth, the vibrancy, diversity and sheer quality of the region’s output. Our extensive tasting exceeded our best expectations. Among the top scorers were established icons but also ‘young guns’; in tandem, these are expanding the region’s already impressive canon, across colours and styles, well beyond the obvious and expected. The rise of Rioja’s whites is particularly of note, with all-time classics – not least CVNE’s inimitable Monopole Clásico Gran Reserva – rubbing shoulders with modern jewels such as El Pacto’s Jesús Acha. There was of course no shortage of gems on the red front; we were blown away by the transparency and nuance of Carlos Sánchez’s La Bendecida and Miguel Merino’s La Quinta Cruz (which also makes the strongest of cases for the potential of the Mazuelo variety).

Rioja also shone closer to home, at Decanter’s tasting suite in London. We hosted producer Remírez de Ganuza at one of our ‘Decanter Presents…’ events, and bodeguero José Urtasun brought an outstanding lineup that included UV, a truly fresh (all puns intended) take on the Tempranillo variety.

We’re already looking forward to our 2026 report! And here’s to 100 years more.

Ines Salpico, Regional Editor 31 CVNE, Monopole Clásico Gran Reserva Blanco Seco, Rioja, Spain 2018 98 cvne.com

Amber in colour, this is a beautiful interpretation of aged white Rioja with a really extended ageing period. There is a wonderful sweetness from the oak that captivates but is very fresh and lifted, even White

Red wines

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after all its time in barrel and bottle – the wine is matured for a period of 60 months in a mix of used Rioja barrels and an older, large bota cask. Lemon curd, apple and baking spice create a luscious mouthfeel with a slightly waxy finish. Tasted by Beth Willard Drink 2026-2032 Alcohol 13.5% 32 Viñedos El Pacto, Jesús Acha Senda de Haro Blanco, Rioja, Spain 2018 97 vinedoselpacto.com

While it is reminiscent of top Burgundy, I’m hesitant to make that comparison, because this is a stunning wine in its own right.

Struck-match aromas add the complexity of subtle reduction on the nose. The palate is saline and possesses a fabulous texture.

Mouthfilling, but supported by impressive acidity, this is a fantastic Viura (blended with small proportions of Malvasía, Jaina, Garnacha Blanca and other varieties), reinterpreted for modern times. Beth Willard Drink 2026-2032 Alc 14% 33 Carlos Sánchez, La Bendecida, Rioja, Spain 2022 97 carlossanchezvinos.com

Bright and lively with beautiful floral notes and a broody, inviting, seductive nature.

It offers a lightness of touch with a strong, muscular structure. A touch of sour fruit, with rhubarb and pomegranate, but underpinned with earthy tones of beetroot.

There is grip on the finish but it is somewhat ethereal and incredibly moreish. Farmed

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according to biodynamic principles and made using minimal intervention. Ines Salpico Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13.5% 34 Miguel Merino, La Quinta Cruz Mazuelo, Rioja, Spain 2022 96

US$35-$46 Empire Wine, The Cellar d’Or Immediately inviting, this Mazuelo offers intense varietal characteristics with wild strawberry and mint aromas, opening into a silky, velvety palate that has just the right amount of tannic lift. The texture of this wine is wonderfully appealing, with a touch of stony grip. It is poised, refined and is a unique take on a cooler zone of Rioja, while also showcasing this less-typical variety.

Beth Willard Drink 2026-2030 Alc 13.5% 35 Remírez de Ganuza, UV, Rioja, Spain 2022 96

£108.33 (ib) Brunswick Fine Wines Remírez de Ganuza’s only single-variety Tempranillo delivers another pure, transparent expression of the variety. Lifted by fragrant violets, crushed rose petals and wild strawberry, the flavours are moreish and juicy, with tomato compote, red cherry jam, pomegranate and cranberry. Lively and frank, this is dangerously drinkable, gliding through the palate and leaving a mouthwatering, zesty trail. Ines Salpico Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13.5%

Decanter | January 2026 | 33

Portugal & Spain (beyond Rioja)

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ow hard – and painfully unfair – to select only five wines for this broad section. And in a year that has delivered a memorable array of standout bottles from across the Iberian peninsula, where producers big and small are leveraging today’s many challenges to refine and assert their sense of identity. The tough trading times have validated the efforts of those who eschew trends and remain true to themselves, reinventing tradition without losing sight of it – elements fundamental to producing wines at once timeless and excitingly modern. The latter could definitely be said of Kopke’s 80 Year Old Tawny Port and Alves de Sousa’s Memórias; both pay tribute, in different but equally compelling ways, to the heritage of the Douro.

Tradition reinvented and classic modernity were also running themes across our inaugural Ribera del Duero report (see October 2025 issue). Among the top-scoring wines was Francisco Barona’s Finca Las Dueñas – a Reserva like no other, of robust, nuanced elegance, as charismatic as Barona himself. Much further south, in Jerez, a new generation of equally talented vignerons is producing some of Spain’s most exciting bottles: Vinos de Pasto are the unfortified wines being produced from the same grape (Palomino Fino) and terroirs as Sherry. I was blown away by Raúl Moreno’s: perfect encapsulations of technical precision and maverick questioning of stylistic assumptions.

Meanwhile, Juvé & Camps brought Spain’s sparkling excellence to our tasting suite for our first ‘Decanter Presents…’ event (in late October at our London W2 offices). And the producer didn’t disappoint: during the session we tasted the standout Cava La Capella – produced exclusively from Xarel.lo, it was another affirmation of Spain’s indigenous varieties.

The best wines are, more than drinks, unforgettable experiences; these five, and many others, will linger long in my memory.

Ines Salpico, Regional Editor

world-class sparkling wines is on show in this cuvée. The silky mousse carries the rich flavours of honey, candied lemon, ripe pear, yellow apple and guava, while the wide mid-palate is fleshed out by frangipane, buttered toast and apple strudel. Herbal nuances of wild fennel and oregano, spiced with white pepper. Tasted by Ines Salpico Drink 2024-2028 Alcohol 12% 37 Alves de Sousa, Memórias, Douro, Portugal 98

£159.99/magnum Delicias UK A solera-system blend of selected plots from nine vintages, 2011 to 2019 (omitting 2014). Complex and drinkable, this has all its elements in perfect yet dynamic balance.

The tannins are muscular but seductively velvety and there’s a deft layering of ripe fruit, dried red berries, tobacco, Assam tea and juicy prunes. A filigree veil of star anise, cardamom, cinnamon and salty liquorice adds tingling vividness. Drinking superbly, especially if allowed to unfurl in the glass, but with a long and great life ahead. Ines Salpico Drink 2026-2045 Alcohol 14% 38 Francisco Barona, Finca Las Dueñas Reserva, Ribera del Duero, Spain 2021 97

£49.99 Adnams An alluring nose of graphite, leather and liquorice, with fragrant mountain herbs. The palate follows with juicy plum, red cherry and roasted peppers topped with cocoa nibs and salty liquorice. Tomato leaf and

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Earl Grey tea add intrigue and depth. Vibrant, with a finely honed structure. Mineral freshness carries it through to a long finish.

Ines Salpico Drink 2026-2040 Alc 15% 39 Raúl Moreno, La Pretensión Vino de Pasto, Jerez, Andalucía, Spain 2022 95

US$30-$34 Copake Wine Works, Leon & Son Skin-macerated for three weeks and aged in Cognac barrels, this is a Moscatel like no other, with outstanding complexity and aromatic detail. Oily unctuosity wraps the nectarine, red apple, kumquat, loquat and peach fruit, with jasmine and orange blossom hovering and nutmeg, lavender and cherry leaf lining the seams. Saline and mouthwatering, with a pleasant lingering bitterness of orange pith and cherry pits.

Ines Salpico Drink 2026-2028 Alc 12% 40 Kopke, 80 Year Old Tawny Port, Douro, Portugal 98

£650-£695 Jeroboams, The Whisky Exchange, Vintage Wine & Port

Extraordinary depth, balance and nuance; more an experience than a drink. Vivid acid carries the dense flavours of dried apricot, poached cherry, strawberry jam and loquat.

A core of unctuous plum sorbet, walnut, salted caramel and melting dark chocolate.

Over it all hovers a dense, perfumed layer of mahogany, cherry leaves, crushed violets and camphor with a smoky seam of rooibos tea, coffee and peat. Very long on the finish with nutmeg, cinnamon and white pepper.

Ines Salpico Drink 2026-2035 Alc 20%

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The potential of Xarel.lo to produce

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WINES OF THE YEAR

Australia, New Zealand, South Africa

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hoosing just three bottles to represent the dynamism and diversity of Australian wine right now was made even harder by the calibre of the contenders. Penfolds, for example, had 15 wines scoring 95 points or more in Decanter tastings in 2025, with two vintages of Grange (1990 and 2021) awarded 99pts.

But my choices for Wines of the Year 2025 reflect the younger wineries and newer-wave styles that made me really excited during the year. It’s exemplified by Alkina, founded in 2015, whose detailed, plot-specific wines are rewriting the script for Barossa Shiraz and scooped two top spots in David Sly’s 2023 vintage report (Decanter Premium online, June). Flametree, established in 2007, joined Margaret River royalty in Cassandra Charlick’s top 2023 Chardonnays (September 2025 issue) – from a vintage dubbed one of the region’s greatest ever. Chief winemaker Cliff Royle’s SRS (Sub-Regional Series) showcased a single exceptional site in Wallcliffe.

And Ed Carr’s stunning Late Disgorged cuvée is proof of the synergy between Tasmanian terroir and sparkling wine; no comparisons with Champagne necessary.

Head east across the Tasman sea to New Zealand, however, and Bell Hill Vineyard in Waikari does bring to mind the limestone soils of both Champagne and Burgundy.

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Chardonnay accounted for just 9% of the country’s vineyard in 2024, but as Emma Jenkins MW argues, wines such as the Bell Hill Chardonnay are its best-kept secret.

It’s no secret, though, that South Africa’s Hemel-en-Aarde Valley is producing world-class Chardonnay, such as the year’s top-scoring Seascape Reserve from Whalehaven, which Richard Kershaw MW, praised for its Mersault-like focus.

Julie Sheppard, Regional Editor House of Arras, EJ Carr Late Disgorged Méthode Traditionelle, Australia 2006 98 41

houseofarras.com.au

Full of character and intrigue, with 14 years on lees, tertiary notes belied by fresh energy and bright acidity. Exceptional length, with captivating mouthfeel and texture. Plenty of crushed-cashew nuttiness. Low dosage keeps things poised and taut with a fullness – yet not richness – on the palate, and it teases with tension. The whole package.

Tasted (from magnum) by Cassandra Charlick Drink 2026 Alcohol 12.5% 42 Flametree, SRS Wallcliffe Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia 2023 97

£40.50-£42 NY Wines, The Dorset Wine Co Plenty of flint, lemon pith and sea spray, with white blossom and delicate perfume.

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Volume and clarity, with power that’s streamlined, not forceful. Exhilarating wine, remarkable intensity, drive and persistence with fine, detailed character. Matured in 35% new French puncheons for 10 months with no malolactic or lees stirring. (See panel tasting ‘Outstanding’, p89) Cassandra Charlick Drink 2026-2040 Alc 12.9% 43 Bell Hill, Chardonnay, North Canterbury, New Zealand, 2019 97 O

£120-£145 LJK Wines, NY Wines Hard to find but well worth the hunt. A subtle wine, with dried lemon, tangerine, lime flower and delicate bran biscuit notes, plus a distinctive mineral tang. It changes a lot in the glass – many layers to explore, with a sense of volume and flow anchored around a tight core. Very saline, with lively energy and vitality; deceptively long. Emma Jenkins MW Drink 2026-2045 Alc 13% 44 Whalehaven, Seascape Reserve Chardonnay, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa 2023 97

£37.50 Amathus Drinks Whalehaven brought in Richard Kershaw MW as winemaking consultant from the 2023 vintage. The Reserve series is a selection of the finest barrels in the cellar.

Jason Millar: Intense, spicy palate with great concentration, yellow apple, plum and lemon pith. Andy Howard MW: Savoury, with fine balance of freshness, acidity and ripe stone fruit. Roger Jones: Great purity and focus. Luscious, delicate. Reminds me of Meursault. Nutty, classy. Gun flint, then lime for a fresh finish. Decanter panel tasting tasting Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13% 45 Alkina, Polygon No1, Barossa Valley, Australia 2023 98 alkinawine.com

Precise geological mapping of the Alkina vineyard has identified different soil profiles in components they call polygons. Here the mica schist of Polygon No1 delivers keen, alert flavours of fine white pepper over dry, dark red fruits, with a keen savoury note to enhance the texture. Stern, focused power without any unnecessary brawn, sparks of pristine flavours dancing with lively energy.

David Sly Drink 2026-2040 Alc 13.5% White

Orange

Red

Sweet & fortified wines

Decanter | January 2026 | 35

WINES OF THE YEAR

Napa & Sonoma, California

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apa and its neighbouring Sonoma County continue to shine brightly, as winemakers representing the next generation, and a fresh voice, sidle up next to established producers who’ve been making wines of renown for what seems like decades.

Our Sonoma correspondent Ana Carolina Quintela picked the one white in this year’s Wines of the Year selection – Poet & Prophet’s beguiling Ghost Cat Chardonnay from the intense mountain terroir in Alexander Valley’s eastern highlands. And Quintela’s other selection is this year’s only 100-point wine, a Pinot Noir from Occidental – the lone producer who was in our WotY selection last year, too. The tiny berries and low yields harvested from this near-coastal vineyard site have crafted a wine of intensity.

Cabernet is king in Napa Valley, yet our Napa correspondent Jonathan Cristaldi’s top wine from 2025 is a Syrah: the Colgin Cellars IX Estate from the remarkable 2021 vintage. There’s an elegance to this bottling, offering floral and citrus tones like the classic Syrahs of the northern Rhône.

Napa’s Cathiard Vineyard, at St Helena, produced Cristaldi’s top-scoring Cabernet Sauvignon: from 45-year-old vines, the 2022 is a complete package. And from a high-elevation site on Howell Mountain comes Pilcrow’s Granite Lake. Rather than the inky black fruit and dark chocolate you might expect, this Cabernet Sauvignon is a red-fruited surprise, with blood orange and grapefruit elements mingling with forest and mineral tones. A throwback, says Cristaldi, to a classic age in Napa Valley.

Clive Pursehouse, Regional Editor

Prophet & Poet, Ghost Cat Upper Barn Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA 2021 98 46

prophetandpoet.com

From a vineyard at about 550m, where plenty of sun and wind translates into an abundance of aromatics. Fresh citrus and subtle herb aromas, then lemon verbena, camomile, a hint of honeysuckle, crunchy white peach and a touch of nuttiness through the mid-palate. A mineral edge brightens the rich, generous mouthfeel. Just 948 bottles made. Tasted by Ana Carolina Quintela Drink 2026-2040 Alcohol 14.2%

36 | Decanter | January 2026

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47 Occidental, Bodega Headlands Vineyard, Cuvée Elizabeth Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, USA 2022 100

US$130-$170 B-21, Belmont Wine Exchange, Continental Wine & Spirits, Flask, Morrell Wine, Saratoga Wine Exchange, Vanderbilt Avenue

Floral and ethereal, this complete-feeling 2022 is from a warm vintage; the crop was even smaller than usual, making the aromas and flavours way more vivid. Wet lavender, violet and damp soil aromas with a dusting of baking spice. Pomegranate and wild berries form a juicy, lively core, satin tannins bringing structure without getting in the way of an elegant frame. It’s a wowmoment wine: truly beautiful. Ana Carolina Quintela Drink 2026-2040 Alc 12.8%

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49 Cathiard Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA 2022 98

£258.83 (ib) Cru World Wine From the highest point on the Cathiard estate at more than 365m, this was aged for 20 months in roughly 80% new French oak.

A deep black-fruited profile has nuances of redwood and loamy earth richness, leading to a full expression that balances tannic power and fruit density. Structured and expansive with an exceptionally long finish, where pure currant, blackberry and black cherry mingle with wet slate and graphite minerality, rounding out a satisfying, slightly spicy close. Just gorgeous. Jonathan Cristaldi Drink 2026-2038 Alc 14.5%

Colgin Cellars, IX Estate Syrah, Napa Valley, California, USA 2021 99

50 Pilcrow, Granite Lake Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley, California, USA 2022 97

£377 Berry Bros & Rudd US$350-$445 Angry Wine Merchant, Brix26,

Valley Winery Exchange, Pilcrow, Wine.com

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Finding.wine, MacArthur Beverages, Morrell Wine, Seaholm, Sokolin, Zachys

Absolutely seamless and polished, offering an intensely fragrant profile of black cherry and blue fruit compote, lifted by zesty grapefruit, orange oil, violets and white truffle charcuterie. An opulent mix of red, black and blue fruits is framed by elliptical tannins with crisp, elegant edges and a wonderfully plump mid-palate. The finish is mineral-driven, expanding with a twist of orange peel and citrus zest. Jonathan Cristaldi Drink 2026-2035 Alc 15.2%

US$125-$140 Benchmark Wine Group, Napa From a vineyard that straddles a peak at 690m along the ridgeline facing into Napa Valley, a site defined by iron-rich, volcanic soils and surrounded by forest. Organically farmed and aged for 22 months in 42% new French oak, this shows red-fruited elegance with lifted rose petal, tobacco and refined cedar aromatics. It’s a masterful expression of site, with a chalky richness and seriously long, polished tannins. Blood orange and grapefruit zest emerge through the finish, carried by a riveting tension. Jonathan Cristaldi Drink 2026-2038 Alc 14.2% White

Red wines

Greater North America

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ecanter’s US team tasted nearly 4,000 wines this year, and we saw talented winemakers come together with wonderful vintages in the 2022 and 2023 releases. Fantastic wines were made up and down the West Coast – indeed, four of our five selected wines were made from white varieties. The cooler vintage in Washington state, balanced years in Willamette Valley and California (see p36 for Napa and Sonoma), and the evolution of Chardonnay and white wine in general have given us a brilliant slate of wines.

In terms of scores, our list tops out with two wines from my Willamette Valley vintage report (see November 2025 issue).

My first 100-point wine is a thrilling Chardonnay from legacy producer Bethel Heights – The High Wire soars to great heights. And the 99pt Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir from Martin Woods is, in my opinion, the best red wine of the vintage: its elegance impresses immediately.

A stunning 2018 sparkling Chardonnay from Rhys is the current release from one of the first names in the Santa Cruz Mountains, where the Mt Pajaro Vineyard perches on the western flanks, just 12km from the Pacific. The wine offers a depth and richness evocative of the great wines crafted in that one place in northern France.

From an iconic site in the Sta Rita Hills comes the Domaine Jean François, Sanford & Benedict Twelve Rows Chardonnay from 2021– it’s a collaboration between John

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Terlato of Sanford winery and Burgundy’s François Labet. From the vineyard’s original 1972 own-rooted plantings, this is an intense wine that shows the greatness of Santa Barbara Chardonnay.

While a few wines from Washington in the cool 2022 vintage scored 98 points, the 97pt Grand Klasse Roussanne from Gård is the most compelling wine from the region.

Intuitive winemaking, coupled with a perfect white wine vintage, came together to create what I believe is the best white wine ever to come out of Washington.

Clive Pursehouse, Regional Editor 51 Rhys Vineyards, Mt Pajaro Vineyard Blanc de Blancs, Santa Cruz Mountains, California, USA 2018 98 rhysvineyards.com

Opulent apricot flesh aromas with clover honey, a touch of alpine forest brightening the affair. The mouthfeel is classic, rich and creamy, reminiscent of lemon curd, with an enlivening freshness, brilliant mousse and a lingering depth of citrus cream that lasts impressively. Tasted by Clive Pursehouse Drink 2026-2038 Alcohol 12.5% 52 Bethel Heights, The High Wire Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 2023 100 O

£60 (ib) A&B Vintners Perfection. Subtle, delicate aromas of citrus curd, acacia honey and crushed chalk offer tremendous elegance. The palate shows a

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depth reminiscent of lemon oil, beeswax and rich, resonant white florals. A stroke of brilliance disguised as a Chardonnay, this teems with complexity and nuance, as good as anything made anywhere in the world.

Nothing is out of place; the finish seems to linger forever. A masterpiece from what is quickly becoming America’s greatest Chardonnay AVA, Eola-Amity Hills. Clive Pursehouse Drink 2026-2042 Alc 12.8% 53 Domaine Jean François, Sanford & Benedict Proprietor’s Vineyard, The Twelve Rows Chardonnay, Sta Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County, California, USA 2021 97

US$133 Craft City Apple, lemon and cream underscored by a striking crushed seashell minerality – emblematic of the region’s singular terroir.

Warm baguette notes complement the cool flavours, lending tension and elegance. A swift, focused attack leads into a beautifully textured palate, balancing opulence with precision. A clear French influence in the cellar shapes the wine’s style, setting it apart within the Sanford portfolio. Vanessa Rason Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13.1% 54 Gård, Grand Klasse Roussanne, Royal Slope, Columbia Valley, Washington, USA 2022 97

US$42 gardwine.com Evocative of the great white Rhônes. Spiced and honeyed, with perfect fruit notes. On the palate, mouthfuls of spiced lemon oil, clover honey and fleshy, apricot finish with baking spices and exotic notes. A stunning wine, the likes of which I’ve not had from American Roussanne before. Clive Pursehouse Drink 2026-2038 Alc 14.1% 55 Martin Woods, Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir, McMinnville, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 2023 99

£35 (ib) A&B Vintners Dazzling. Brilliantly floral, with spice, a beautiful elegance to the aromatics and a reductive earthiness. Sweet florals, red fruits and wonderful berries on the nose.

Mint, earth and savoury notes of lavender and lilac. Depth and breadth, finishing with brine that lingers long on the tip of the tongue. The elegance and completeness floor me. Simply stunning. Clive Pursehouse Drink 2026-2040 Alc 13.1%

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WINES OF THE YEAR

South America

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ne of my favourite features of 2025, included in our September issue, collected contributions from our South America experts on their favourite ‘hidden jewels’. Their input – kaleidoscopic and heartfelt – revealed unexpected and lesser-known wines, places and people. It offered colourful snapshots of South America as a source not just of outstanding wines, but also of creative energy and positive entrepreneurial spirit.

These are the drivers behind the continent’s most exciting bottles, many of which remained overlooked and underestimated for a long time. It’s great to see collectors and investors finally catching up with the quality and ageability of South America’s best – represented in this Wines of the Year selection by yet another outstanding vintage of Seña, the 2023. Meanwhile, I was mind-blown by what is surely another Chilean icon in the making: Piedra Sagrada.

But it’s not just in the upper fine wine spheres that South America is making an indelible mark. Our September issue also included one of Decanter’s most successful panel tastings to date – South American Premium Whites – headlined by idiosyncratic (and accessible) gems such as Carmen’s DO Florillón #6 Semillon.

All of the wines etched in my memory of 2025 tell beautiful stories. From Argentina, Cara Sur’s Parcela La Totora evokes the exciting revival of Criolla varieties, while Catena Zapata’s Birth of Cabernet shows how excellence stems from the careful observation of the role nature plays in chance occurrence.

This is the essence of wine: unique messages, travelling the world in beautiful bottles. At a time when so many of us are feeling like stranded castaways, you’d want to feel inspired by one of these South American missives.

Ines Salpico, Regional Editor 56 Carmen, DO Florillón #6 Semillon, Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile NV 96

carmen.com

A biologically aged Semillon from vines approaching 70 years of age in the heart of Apalta, this matures under a thick veil of flor White

Red wines

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(layer of yeast cells) that gives it one of the most distinctive personalities in Chilean wine today. Amanda Barnes MW: Camomile and sea salt, racy and bone-dry with a long, marcona almond finish. One for anchovies.

Florencia Gomez: Nutty aroma. Dry palate, layers of dried apricot, almond and grippy texture. Long and moreish. Benjamin Gubbins: Really savoury nose and palate.

Wax, grass and citrus, with an umami undertone. Very gourmand. Decanter panel tasting Drink 2026-2027 Alcohol 12.5%

Piedra Sagrada, Pirque, Maipo Valley, Chile 2016 98 57

piedrasagrada.com

A wine of incredible character and poise that offers an unexpected but superb rendition of Cabernet Sauvignon, truly communicating the uniqueness of the Piedra Sagrada terroir. Incredible elegance and detail, rendered in the gossamer tannic structure. The latter is coated in a fine layer of salt, creating a beautiful encasement for the red cherry, raspberry, plum and Marcona almonds at the core. Very long, with a delicious, playful twist of Campari and blood orange on the finish. Tasted by Ines Salpico Drink 2026-2045 Alc 14% 58 Seña, Aconcagua Valley, Chile 2023 98 O

£60-£75 (ib) Widely available Full of detail with remarkable purity of flavour. A gunpowder and graphite nose preludes flavours of wild strawberry,

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maraschino cherries, plum sorbet and cherry pit. Liquorice, bayleaf and sage, sprinkled with cinnamon and nutmeg, give nuance and definition. Fine and lively acid frames the wine from the start to its long finish, and there’s a lingering touch of spicy wild rocket.

Drinking superbly now but with a great life ahead of it. Ines Salpico Drink 2026-2038 Alc 13.5% 59 Catena Zapata, Birth of Cabernet, Mendoza, Argentina 2021 96

£85-£92.95 Hedonism, Perfect Cellar, Vinvm Zesty tannins support the red plum, cherry and blackberry fruit, with a bright undercurrent of blood orange adding fluidity throughout. A spicy lining of cardamom and pink pepper gives further definition and liveliness. Delicious and very characterful. Ines Salpico Drink 2026-2034 Alc 13.5% 60 Cara Sur, Parcela La Totora, San Juan, Argentina 2021 95 O

£57.95-£62.70 AG Wines, Les Caves de Pyrene This is the top wine of Sebastián Zuccardi and Pancho Bugallo’s old-vine project in the heights of Barreal, north of Mendoza, where their centenarian vines lie at above 1,500m.

Style-wise, the fine spine of tannins and nervy acidity, with notes of balsamic strawberry, blackcurrant leaf, mountain herbs and rose petals, make this the Criolla Chica (Listán Prieto/País) equivalent of Nebbiolo. An absolute delight. Amanda Barnes Drink 2026-2034 Alc 12.5%

Decanter | January 2026 | 39

WINES OF THE YEAR

Rest of the world

(UK, Asia, Northern & Eastern Europe, Southern & Eastern Mediterranean)

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he task of reducing a huge field to just five wines to represent the expansive ‘global discovery’ category was made slightly easier this year, since many of our key finds from southeastern Europe earned a place in one of the panel tastings in this issue (see p94). Apart from this, it has been an enthralling 12 months across these diverse regions. Decanter’s Georgie Hindle loved the almost viscous palate of Schloss Johannisberg’s Goldlack Riesling Trocken 2022, reflecting one of the hottest summers on record in Germany’s Rheingau region. Ktima Gerovassiliou’s single-vineyard Malagousia 2024, a DWWA Best in Show winner, emerged as one of Greece’s standout wines in 2025, a highlighted by Olly Smith in his ‘Greek white wines beyond Assyrtiko’ article on Decanter Premium in April.

From Austria, Andreas Gsellmann’s Ried Gabarinza Blaufränkisch 2021 was the top-scorer in this year’s ‘Blaufränkisch across Europe’ panel tasting (August issue), with judges noting its poised balance.

While in her ‘Expert’s choice’ feature on Hungary’s famous sweet wine (December 2024 issue), Beth Willard praised Royal Tokaji’s Mézes Mály 6 Puttonyos 2018, part of its single-vineyard Tokaji Aszú range.

Finally, in my tastings of English sparkling wines, I was hugely impressed by Hambledon’s Blanc de Blancs Cuvée, based on the excellent 2018 vintage and notable for its richly autolytic sophistication after four years’ maturing on the lees.

Stellar discoveries from Asia also merit a mention (see decanter.com for full details).

From Greater China, the Bordeaux blends Ao Yun 2021 (96pts) and Domaine de Long Dai 2018 (95pts) were among the year’s top scorers, while Domaine Shu Sheng’s Moscato Oro Vino Fortificato (95pts) from Taiwan was a wonderful surprise.

Sylvia Wu, Regional Editor

Windmill Down vineyards; the wine aged on lees for four years. A bready, honeyed nose reveals citrus and camomile, while the palate is round and textured yet driven by vivid freshness. Ginger-spiced, with baked citrus, mango and pineapple, leading to a nutty depth that lingers long. Tasted by Sylvia Wu Drink 2026-2035 Alcohol 12% 62 Schloss Johannisberg, Goldlack Riesling Trocken, Rheingau, Germany 2022 97

£187.33 Millésima Aromas of petrol, lychee and wild jasmine with white pepper and dried thyme. Thick and unctuous, but alive and really piercing.

Utterly filling in every way, confident and shining. Complex and captivating, honeyed, with some dark caramel and toasted edges but lovely bright, citrus acidity, too. Sweet lemon and lime with some sugary peach and a salty, mineral touch to the finish.

Georgie Hindle Drink 2026-2055 Alc 12%

Ktima Gerovassiliou, Single Vineyard Malagousia, Epanomi, Macedonia, Greece 2024 95 63

£22-£27 Widely available via independent merchants

US$35 Finding.wine, Princeton Corkscrew, The LIttle Greek Market

A pale wine, but huge character. On the nose, it’s a world of delight, with apricot, jasmine, nectarine and orange blossom.

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When you sip it, the wine is as dynamic as a peachy supernova, with apricot and lime zest sustaining the mid-palate. To finish, the flavours give off sparks of salinity, with a sense of dancing deliciousness. Olly Smith Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13.5% 64 Andreas Gsellmann, Ried Gabarinza Blaufränkisch, Burgenland, Austria 2021 96 O gsellmann.at

Gabarinza is a renowned vineyard on a southwest-facing slope in Burgenland near lake Neusiedl. Caroline Gilby MW: Ethereal aromas of rose water and bilberry, elegant acidity and very nicely done oak lingering.

Stefan Neumann MS: Poised and elegant, with juicy black fruit-driven notes. Nicely layered. Wieteke Teppema: Cassis and cherry, plum. Earthy and inky, some animal hide, but all in balance. Decanter panel tasting Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13.5% 65 Royal Tokaji, Mézes Mály Aszú 6 Puttonyos, Tokaj, Hungary 2018 97

£88.75-£111/50cl (ib) Christopher Keiller, Cru, Farr Vintners, VinQuinn

Still tightly wound, but for now there are wonderful honeycomb, camomile and white pepper aromas, with pineapple, Nashi pear and apple compote on the palate. Seductive, luscious and lifted. From a great first growth vineyard, this is an ethereal wine. Beth Willard Drink 2024-2038 Alc 11%

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61 Hambledon Vineyard, Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Brut, Hampshire, England NV 95

£51-£55 Berry Bros & Rudd, Hambledon, The Champagne Co, VinQuinn, Vinvm

A blend based on the 2018 vintage, fruit primarily sourced from the south-facing

40 | Decanter | January 2026

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White

Red

Sweet & fortified wines

Burgundy 2024

A difficult vintage across the whole region, yet 2024 should not be written off completely. Quantities are well down, but there are still many gems. Happily, our expert tasted more than 1,700 wines to find the best – you’ll need to act quickly to secure your choices, so begin your search with the 60 highlights shown here…

REPORT CHARLES CURTIS MW

42 | Decanter | January 2026

Charles Curtis MW tasting with Robin Rapet at Domaine Rapet Père et Fils (see p49) in Pernand-Vergelesses

Decanter | January 2026 | 43

VINTAGE PREVIEW: BURGUNDY 2024

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ollowing a growing season rife with challenges, 2024 is a catastrophically small vintage, yet there are bright spots that shine through, particularly among the white wines. Despite concerns raised in some quarters over quality in general, as a result of the year’s severe weather conditions, Burgundy lovers may be surprised at how many enjoyable wines they will find.

According to Frédéric Drouhin, CEO of Maison Joseph Drouhin: ‘2024 is a vintage of delicacy, sobriety and precision. It is a pleasant vintage in red, and a precise and salty vintage for the whites.’ His wife Claude de Nicolay (pictured, right) directs her own domaine, Chandon de Briailles, with her brother François. Her view was slightly different: ‘2024 will be a “virtual” vintage – you will almost not see it at all. We lost 90% of the crop and had an average yield of 8hl/ha. There was nothing at all to pick at the base of the slope. But in the end, it is a classic vintage à l’ancienne, a character not extinguished by the excesses of the weather.’

After tasting more than 1,700 wines in all from this vintage, including Chablis, I can say that it’s a good vintage for white wines, which have firm acidity, wonderful balance and moderate alcohol.

It was generally a modest vintage for red wine, which could tend to be light, thin and lacking concentration and fruit.

It is, above all, a highly variable vintage from village to village, however, and surprises abound.

Chablis was hit hardest by the climate in 2024, and the Côte de Beaune fared better than the Côte de Nuits. It seems that the further south one ventures, the better the wines become, and 2024 is a vintage where the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais really came into their own.

Drouhin described the challenges: ‘We did not produce any wine at all in the grands crus of Clos de Vougeot, Clos de Bèze or Les Clos in Chablis, and it was difficult for the staff, since the pressure was simply too intense.’

According to BIVB, the Bourgogne Wine Board, total volume produced in 2024 was 1.21 million hectolitres (just over 161 million bottles). This figure was a drop of more than a third from the generous 2023 harvest, although it was more than 20% above 2021, which was decimated by frost.

‘2024 Burgundy is, above all, a highly variable vintage from village to village, and surprises abound’ Charles Curtis MW

Weather conditions & effects Numerous winemakers spoke of the psychological challenge of the 2024 vintage, explaining that they felt they should have been able to do more, somehow, to counter the weather’s excesses – that they might have changed the outcome had they done so. But on the ground at the time it was happening, that wasn’t realistic, given the very difficult conditions they faced. The best, however, did what they could to deliver delicious wines. The year began with mild temperatures and, notably, 44 | Decanter | January 2026

some of the warmest February temperatures ever recorded. March was also warmer than usual, setting the vines ahead of schedule. April, however, saw temperatures plummet, with two episodes of frost at the end of the month damaging some vineyards.

The real challenge began in May, however, as temperatures remained low and rain fell incessantly across the region. Jérôme Flous, the technical director of Domaine Faiveley, explained the

Burgundy 2024 vintage WHITE

A good to very good vintage that has produced whites of elegance and finesse with the structure and the substance for mid- to long-term ageing, comparable to the 2014 vintage

RED

A challenging vintage. The best examples will be found in the Côte de Beaune, although outstanding producers further north have exceeded expectations

difficulties: ‘I started at Faiveley in 2007, and 2024 has been my most challenging vintage – there were 38 days of rain in May and June. The problem was the flowering; in a rainy year, it is disrupted, the stem is in contact with the air, and mildew can easily destroy the bunch.’

The rain eased off somewhat in July and August, but there were occasional storms, including hailstorms, throughout this period. Another difficulty was the lack of sun: 2024 saw the fewest hours of sunshine since the beginning of the century. Grapes ripened with difficulty, and most growers used a relatively dry period between 13 and 22 September to harvest their tiny crop.

What to buy

The 2024 vintage will remain a vintage apart, if only because of the exceptional climatic conditions that had to be endured. Judging the wines, however, is another matter. As Frédéric Mugnier (pictured, opposite) of Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier put it: ‘Don’t take the word of a winemaker when it

Clockwise from above: Claude de Nicolay, Chandon de Briailles; Romain Chevrolat, winemaker at Domaine Laroche (see p47); at Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Frédéric Mugnier (left) and winemaker François Moriamez; Charles Curtis MW tasting with winemaker Jean Lupatelli at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, in Chambolle-Musigny

comes to [assessing] a vintage, since their opinion reflects their lived experience, and there was no amusement involved in making the 2024 vintage.’

In red wine, the closest parallels would be 2001 or 2013. For whites, the nearest comparison would be 2014, suggesting that it’s a vintage to buy reds for current drinking and whites to lay down.

If money is no object, invest in the Montrachet from Domaine des Comtes Lafon or the ChevalierMontrachet from Domaine Jean Chartron or Domaine Michel Niellon. Among the reds, an obvious splurge would be the Musigny from Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé or the Bonnes Mares from Domaine Georges Roumier.

Most wine lovers will also be delighted with mid-range bottles, such as the Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs from Domaine Michel Lafarge, or the Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes from Domaine Arlaud. Given the limited availability of top wines, it would be advisable to buy en primeur to secure an allocation.

There are also lovely wines further south that will be much less expensive. For whites, don’t miss the Mâcon-Pierreclos from Maison Verget, or the Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Sur la Roche from Domaine Rijckaert. Côte Chalonnaise reds such as the Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier aux Moines from Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, or the Mercurey 1er Cru Clos l’Evêque from Domaine Belleville will be perfect for current drinking.

A note on value

Finding value in 2024 will demand a certain perspicacity on the part of wine lovers. The vintage is notable for its small size, and low prices seldom coincide with limited availability.

The logical place to begin would be with regional appellations, although many of these wines come from vineyards in the plain planted on heavy, deep soils, where mildew was often at its worst in 2024.

During my blind tasting of several hundred wines Decanter | January 2026 | 45

VINTAGE PREVIEW: BURGUNDY 2024

‘2024 was really hard in the vineyard but really easy in the cellar’ Pierre Lafon, Domaine des Comtes Lafon

from regional appellations, I found that those from the Hautes-Côtes often came out on top, examples including those from Domaine Guy & Yvan Dufouleur and Domaine Jean Guiton.

Another option is to search the diverse range of Chardonnays produced in the Mâconnais, the best of which have racy acidity, fresh fruit and plenty of structure. The most exciting domaines were Verget, Rijckaert, Domaine Deux Roches, Bret Brothers, Domaine du Roc des Boutires, Domaine Merlin, Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau, Domaine SaumaizeMichelin and Domaine Jacques Saumaize.

Around the appellations Côte de Nuits

In a reversal of recent trends, conditions in the Côte de Nuits (the northern section of Côte d’Or) were more difficult than those in the Côte de Beaune. This reversal is mainly due to localised differences in rainfall, which was a lot higher there, and to the dominance of Pinot Noir, which was much more affected by poor flowering and mildew than Chardonnay.

Even within the Côte de Nuits, conditions varied, and the southern portion, from Nuits-St-Georges to the Clos de Vougeot, suffered more than the section from Morey-St-Denis to Marsannay. Tristan Méo of Méo-Camuzet in Vosne-Romanée describes the season as a constant fight in the vineyard and a constant lookout in the winery, and feels that the wines have enough concentration to age in barrel normally; Méo-Camuzet’s production volume was ‘only’ down 40% overall. Domaine de la RomanéeConti, which farms biodynamically, managed its losses efficiently, and co-director Bertrand de Villaine said: ‘We noticed disparities between plots, but also between vines in the same row.’

Côte de Beaune

Conditions in the Côte de Beaune were generally better than in the Côte de Nuits, though there was variation here as well. At the northern end, the hill of Corton was hit extremely hard by the weather. To the south of Beaune, however, conditions improved.

The ‘golden triangle’ of Meursault, PulignyMontrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet had quality 46 | Decanter | January 2026

Clockwise from above: low cloud hanging over the vineyards around the hill of Corton, north of Beaune; at Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Dominique Lafon (centre) with his daughter Léa and nephew Pierre; barrel samples of the 2024s at Domaine AF Gros in Pommard

and yields much closer to the norm, mainly because Chardonnay (on which these appellations are focused) had a more successful flowering and was less affected by mildew than Pinot Noir.

The vintage still required ceaseless work in the vineyard, but the wines from top Côte de Beaune producers have a combination of seductive fruit aromas and the structure to age. Pierre Lafon of Domaine des Comtes Lafon noted: ‘2024 was really hard in the vineyard but really easy in the cellar.’

In the end, 2024 will be a delicious year for Meursault and the best wines will warrant laying down for a decade or more. In the southern area, appellations Santenay and Maranges also produced some lovely wines.

Côte Chalonnaise

Further south again, in the Côte Chalonnaise, conditions continued to improve. There were marvellous examples of Chardonnay from Rully, Mercurey and Montagny, as well as some particularly good Aligoté. Although conditions limited yields for Pinot Noir, conscientious growers were able to produce lovely wines here that should provide solid value and current drinking pleasure, and some that have the substance for ageing.

TASTED NON-BLIND Mâconnais

The Mâconnais, at Burgundy’s far southern end, is among its brightest spots in the 2024 vintage.

Conditions produced some superb examples of Pouilly-Fuissé (particularly among the new-ish premiers crus). Throughout the Mâconnais, the top growers produced white Burgundy that wine lovers shouldn’t miss in this vintage.

Chablis

A catastrophically small harvest with problems at every turn, the difficult 2024 vintage in Chablis was ‘historically problematic,’ according to winemaker Laurent Pinson. The press release of the BIVB, the region’s normally upbeat trade commission, admits: ‘Floods, excess rains, frost, hail… nothing saved the vines.’ And yet, there are glimmers of hope.

The appeal is the return to the fresh, racy acidity, light body and low alcohol known in previous decades. Romain Chevrolat (pictured, p44), winemaker at Domaine Laroche, described the vintage as ‘old school’. For fans of the traditional style of taut, mineral-inflected Chablis it’s a vintage worth buying, although quantities will be limited.

The 2024s will have more structure and punch than the wines from 2023. They are less substantial than those from 2022 but there’s more minerality, and the wines will be more complete and wellrounded than those from 2021.

With a bit of luck, this is an opportunity to stock up on the delicious twin of the 2014 vintage, which is just coming into maturity now.

The Curtis pick: 60 of the best 2024 Burgundies Wines are shown with Chablis first, then white and red Burgundies listed first by score, then alphabetically by producer. The 2024 wines are bottled from January 2026, hence prices, stockists and alcohols are generally not yet finalised. Contact specialist merchants for allocations or to enquire about en primeur tastings coming up. The following were Decanter Burgundy correspondent Charles Curtis MW’s selection for particular quality and value among the 1,750-plus 2024 wines in all that he tasted. If a wine here has been marked as ‘Top value’, it’s based on our predicted pricing given previous performance.

Chablis

François Raveneau, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 95 A superb example of a success from a vineyard where many struggled in 2024.

The nose offers lemon peel and passion fruit with hints of oyster shell, verbena and spice. Density of extract is balanced by the lively acidity, making it a classic of the vintage. Third-generation Isabelle Raveneau spoke of the domaine’s approach in 2024, the ‘rule of the three Ps: patience, patience, patience’. Drink 2030-2060

Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 95 Superb, the nose boasting concentrated White wines

aromas of gooseberry, grapefruit and kumquat, adorned with hints of oyster shell and spice. There is a vibrant balance with enough extract to drive the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes are from the 0.8ha parcel in Les Preuses, planted on the stony soils in 1970. Although conditions were challenging, this site was less affected by mildew and delivered a wine with excellent depth of flavour and impressive length. Drink 2035-2060

William Fèvre, Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent 95 Rich and dense, remarkable mineral freshness on the nose with lemon peel and nectarine, notes of oyster shell and chalk.

The texture is creamy and the finish long.

Fruit from Kimmeridgian marl soils on plots just next to the grand cru slope. Although there are 3.6ha over eight parcels, the yield in Vaulorent was so low that cellar master Didier Séguier remarked: ‘The hardest thing will be finding any.’ Drink 2035-2060

Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Chablis 94 Stylish, with a little reduction and aroma notes of lemon peel, green apple and pear, and suggestions of acacia blossom and honey. The clean, pure fruit continues on the palate, where there is more density and weight than many. This will drink well on release and continue to improve with mid-term cellaring. Drink 2026-2031

Decanter | January 2026 | 47

VINTAGE PREVIEW: BURGUNDY 2024 Domaine 47°N 3°E, Petit Chablis 91 Boasts an expressive green apple and acacia flower aroma with a hint of spice. The texture is elegant, fine and racy, but there is enough depth here to interest lovers of the 2024 vintage. The grapes are normally fermented and aged in tank, although the 2024 went into barrel as there was not enough fruit to fill the tank. The cask aromas are apparent at this stage but will integrate with time. Drink 2026-2032

Burgundy 2024: Curtis’ wines of the vintage Domaine Jean Chartron, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Clos des Chevaliers 98pts

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, Musigny Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 97pts

White Burgundy

Alvina Pernot, ChevalierMontrachet Grand Cru 95

Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Montrachet Grand Cru 98 1

TOP PRODUCER Lafon’s Montrachet is likely to correspond precisely to many wine lovers’ ideal for the appellation: packed with explosive aromas of ripe melon, quince and peach with hints of butter, spice and cream, the wine seduces with its dense texture even in a year such as 2024. Lafon picked his 0.33ha plot on the Chassagne side very late, and the wine is still ageing in new barrels. There is so much flavour and texture here that those fortunate enough to own this wine are advised to wait as long as possible to open it. Farmed using biodynamic methods. Drink 2035-2070 2 Jean Chartron, Clos des Chevaliers, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 98

WHITE WINE OF THE VINTAGE & TOP PRODUCER Consistently among my favourite Chevaliers. Pronounced aromas of greengage, lemon peel and nectarine, a stony mineral foundation and accents of acacia flowers and spice. On the palate, this shows exceptional concentration and depth of flavour, with a lively, dynamic feel; in fact, it’s simply superb in every regard. The

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half-hectare of vines at the northern end of the historical section of Chevalier is among the greatest sites for white wine in Burgundy. Drink 2035-2070 3 Guffens-Heynen, Croux et Petits Croux Pouilly-Fuissé 96

TOP PRODUCER This Pouilly-Fuissé bottling is consistently among the great white wines of Burgundy, and 2024 is no exception. Pronounced aromas of lemon peel, gooseberry and verbena accented with a rich, smoky reduction and initial mineral notes. The texture is dense and concentrated, but there’s enough acidity to keep the wine in balance. The grapes were picked on the final day of harvest, with a potential alcohol of 13.5%. This wine is monumental, but to appreciate it properly, wait 20 years after the vintage to open.

Drink 2045-2100

Joseph Drouhin, Marquis de Laguiche, Montrachet Grand Cru 96 A wine of intense concentration that never loses its deft balance, where the aromas of ripe pear and Mirabelle plum are accented with notes of marzipan, smoke and spice.

The texture is rich and dense, but the abundant acidity keeps everything in balance and carries the wine to one of the most impressive finishes of the vintage. The grapes were picked over three days, since young and old vines were not all picked at the same time. This wine will be far too easy to drink in its youth, but please wait as long as possible in order to maximise its pleasure. Farmed using biodynamic methods. Drink 2035-2070

ONE TO WATCH Seductive and delicious, this has aromas of passion fruit, Mirabelle plum and coconut, coloured with hints of spice and butter from the wood. Despite the rich aromas, the wine retains a lovely tension on the palate, taut and pleasant.

The grapes are from an exchange of must, and they get just one barrel. Despite the limited availability, it’s definitely worth seeking out. Drink 2030-2050

Domaine de Montille, Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrieres 95 O TOP PRODUCER This stylish wine boasts pronounced aromas of lemon peel, nectarine and verbena, with a firm, flinty mineral underpinning and a hint of reduction, leading a palate that perfectly balances crisp acidity, succulent extract and a lingering finish. The grapes were fermented in large and small barrels, 30% new, where they will age for a year, followed by another six months in tank.

Drink 2030-2050

Henri & Gilles Buisson, Sous la Velle St-Romain 95 B TOP PRODUCER Sous la Velle is preeminent among the numerous delights in the Buisson cellar, and the 2024 is up to the usual standard, with pronounced aromas of lime zest and gooseberry, and a salty mineral edge. Tense in texture with lively acidity, there’s enough body and richness to balance the wine; a delightfully pleasant hint of bitterness lingers on the finish. This 2.5ha site faces due east at 370m; it’s the classic cuvée of this notable domaine. Drink 2028-2045

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Marc-Antonin Blain, Criots-BâtardMontrachet Grand Cru 95

TOP PRODUCER This was among the delightful surprises of my tastings in this vintage. There is an intense concentration

This is superb, with unctuous aromas of ripe pear and melon hemmed with notes of spice and marzipan. The texture is dense but held in exquisite balance by lovely, crisp acidity.

Pierre Vincent, CortonCharlemagne Grand Cru 96

48 | Decanter | January 2026

of zesty lime peel and nectarine fruit, with notes of verbena and a hint of salty minerality. The acidity is lively, balanced by enough extract to stretch the finish out luxuriously. Vincent reports that the two parcels (one in Aloxe, one in Pernand) were picked four days apart to maximise ripeness.

Last year there were nine barrels, this year there are only six, but he’s delighted with the quality. Farmed using biodynamic methods. Drink 2030-2050

O Organic B Biodynamic

Pierre Vincent, based in Auxey-Duresses, made his name at Domaine de la Vougeraie

but it has the substance to age for decades.

Drink 2032-2055

Domaine Rapet, PernandVergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille 94 O TOP PRODUCER This is among the richer expressions of Pernand, with aromas of pear and peach, and hints of hawthorn flowers and beeswax. The texture is denser and the finish longer than some of the more delicate Pernand wines, and the wine still maintains a chiselled acidity and tightly wound density on the palate that will reward further ageing. Drink 2030-2050 6 Maison Chanzy, Clos de la Fortune Vieilles Vignes Bouzeron Monopole 94

‘Rich but not over the top; exemplary grand cru quality’ was my verdict on the day. In his newly established domaine, Blain has a tiny slice (0.11ha) of a Lilliputian grand cru of 60- to 90-year-old vines. Drink 2035-2070 5 Rijckaert, Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Sur la Roche 95 O

TOP PRODUCER & TOP VALUE Winemaker Florent Rouve refers to the Sur la Roche premier cru as ‘the meeting between vintage and climate’. This site is exceptional, and the dynamic tension of the 2024 vintage here has made a special wine.

Scintillating aromas of grapefruit and gooseberry have an edge of salty minerality and notes of flowers and spice. The balance between powerful extract and great acidity makes this a wine to cellar for up to five years before opening. Drink 2032-2045

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White

Red wines

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Decanter vintage ratings Côte d’Or 2024 Whites 2023 Whites 2022 Whites 2021 Whites 2020 Whites

Reds Reds Reds Reds Reds

Benjamin Leroux, Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce Sous le Bois 94 O

TOP PRODUCER & TOP VALUE The old-vine section of the Clos de la Fortune (planted in 1963) is 0.59ha out of a total of 2.1ha. In 2024, it delivered a delicious Aligoté wine with notes of greengage and lime zest, and a suggestion of tarragon or mint. It’s bright and fresh, but there is complexity and depth on the palate as well.

This wine will drink well on release, but is also well suited to ageing. These old vines were the last to be picked, at the beginning of October. Drink 2026-2040

Marcel Couturier, Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Loché 94 B

This seduces with its fragrant lemony fruit and clean notes of acacia flowers and spice, with a firm, salty minerality. Lively and fresh, with the vibrant acidity, density and balance to age for at least a decade after release. The grapes are from both old and young vines, fermented and aged in barrel, 10% new. The best of the wine from this parcel seems to approach grand cru-level quality. Drink 2030-2050

ONE TO WATCH Lovely ripe aromas of quince and melon, accented with white floral notes and spice, lead into a silky, dense texture that haunts the palate yet never becomes cloying. The oldest vines in the 1.1ha parcel were planted in 1928.

Fermentation takes place on indigenous yeasts in used barrels, large and small. The wine should open up within five years or so and will drink for another decade beyond that. Drink 2032-2045

Domaine Ponsot, Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants 94

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, St-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière 94

Pronounced aromas of lime peel and tarragon, and salty minerality. There’s an exceptional purity to the fruit, since the youngest barrel is four years old, so there’s no oak spice. Only four barrels were produced instead of 16-20, but this doubtless contributes to the concentration on the palate, where the flavours and textures vibrate for a solid minute after tasting. It’s a 100% Aligoté wine, unusually,

TOP PRODUCER This is a bit closed initially but opens up on the palate to show almond and pear notes with a bit of reduction and a leesy edge. The grapes are from 70-yearold vines just below Champlots; they were pressed as whole clusters and settled in large and small barrels before fermentation.

Rich and concentrated, this will open with a couple of years in the bottle and age for at least a decade. Drink 2028-2040

Decanter | January 2026 | 49

VINTAGE PREVIEW: BURGUNDY 2024 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Les Ancegnières Chassagne-Montrachet 94 A superb wine in 2024, with notes of Mirabelle plum and passion fruit, and a rich, almost oily texture on the palate. This wine is the only village-level Chassagne that the domaine vinifies separately, and it’s made just like the premiers crus. The 0.26ha are located at the base of the slope near Bâtard-Montrachet; the wine shares some of the exotic Bâtard character, and will be capable of ageing for a decade or more.

Drink 2026-2040

Domaine Belleville, Rully 1er Cru Chapître 93 O TOP PRODUCER & TOP VALUE This is a promising wine. A bit less expressive than others initially, but it opens up with time on the palate to show a lovely tropical fruit character with hints of hazelnut and spice.

The texture is rich but still lively and dynamic. The grapes are from the base of the slope, and fermentation takes place in 25% new barrels. Drink 2026-2032

‘2024 is a vintage of delicacy, sobriety and precision’ Frédéric Drouhin (see p44)

in barrel before further ageing, 25% new.

Drink 2026-2045

Albert Morot, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Clos de La Bataillère 92 O The youthful Chardonnay vines planted in En Vergelesses have delivered a lovely wine, with winning aromas of gooseberry and citrus, and a salty mineral tang. Lively and crisp, with enough substance to ensure the flavours linger on the palate. This wine will drink well on release but is also suitable for mid-term ageing. Drink 2028-2050

release and will hold in the cellar briefly.

Drink 2026-2029

Red Burgundy

7 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, Vieilles Vignes Musigny Grand Cru 97

RED WINE OF THE VINTAGE & TOP PRODUCER My initial reaction upon tasting this wine was: ‘Here is Musigny performing at the top of its potential.’

Whether you were a fan of the older style of de Vogüé Musigny or not, it was undeniably slow to open. The adaptations of style of the new winemaker Jean Lupatelli (since spring 2021) have given this an opulent sheen from barrel, with lushly ripe mulberry and pomegranate fruit aromas, earth, spice and floral notes. It is a wine of complexity and depth that should (even the 2024) last for decades. Drink 2035-2065 8 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru Monopole 97 B

A lemony, mineral-inflected delight, with notes of yeasty lees and pure white flowers.

A light body and crisp acidity, but with tension and snap, and good substance on the palate. The grapes are from several small parcels in Marsannay and Chenove, picked relatively late then fermented in both tank and barrel. This will drink well on release, but is also suitable for ageing.

Drink 2026-2032

TOP PRODUCER It’s almost too easy to say every year, but Romanée-Conti consistently vies for wine of the vintage. This year it surprises with its dark colour and intense aromas, featuring impressively concentrated mulberry and plum with hints of liquorice and smoke. The texture is well endowed with tannin, grip and freshness, but there is nothing astringent or jarring, bright acidity carrying it all through to an elegant finish.

Given the aromas’ accessibility, this will perhaps open earlier than some vintages do.

Drink 2036-2085

Seguin-Manuel, Vieilles Vignes Santenay 91 O

9 Domaine Armand Rousseau, Chambertin Grand Cru 96

Initial aromas of ripe apple, Williams pear and marzipan, with some spice and smoke from the French oak barrels. The texture is rich and slightly showy, but the overall effect is charming. The fruit is from lieu-dit Sous la Roche, high on the slope in Santenay, but this doesn’t appear on the label. Drink 2026-2032

TOP PRODUCER In 2024, yields were so

TOP PRODUCER This old-vine cuvée is a triumph in 2024, with an intensely concentrated aroma of grapefruit and tarragon. The texture is rich and dense yet dynamically fresh. Delicious already, it will only improve with age. Fermented and aged in used barrels. Drink 2026-2040

Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Le Clos Blanc Beaune 1er Cru Grèves 93 O

Jean Guiton, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune 90

Seduces with delicate aromas of ripe pear, chalky minerals and acacia flowers. The texture balances acidity with good extract, allowing it to linger on the palate.

Everything’s in the right place with this elegant white Beaune. The grapes are from just over a hectare located at the base of Beaune Grèves, fermented on native yeasts

TOP VALUE This wine stood out at a recent blind tasting at the BIVB, with its attractive aromas of ripe pear and hazelnut, and hints of cream and toast. It’s balanced and elegant, very restrained, yet there’s impressive depth at this level and good length, too. Fermented and aged in large, mostly used oak barrels, it will drink on

Domaine de Montille, St-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 93 O Rich and generous, this has lovely aromas of ripe pear and stone fruit with hints of cream, spice and smoke. The texture is supple and approachable, with abundant extract, balanced acidity and good length.

Fermented in large and small barrels, 15% new, and aged for a year before another six months in tank. A substantial wine that will charm on release but can age 10 years or more. Drink 2026-2040

Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Sous les Roches Bourgogne Aligoté 93 O

50 | Decanter | January 2026

Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay 92 O

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O Organic B Biodynamic

plummy fruit, a hint of lavender and a bit of spice. The texture is firmly tannic and fresh, but the wine should be approachable soon.

She fermented the grapes as 50% whole clusters, and the wine is ageing in three barrels – two are new, yet this hasn’t overly marked the wine. Drink 2032-2065

Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 95 O

Above: Antoine Amiot-Servelle, Domaine Amiot-Servelle. Left: Jacques Devauges, Domaine des Lambrays

length is impressive, carried by firm tannins, and there is a lovely sweetness to the fruit on the finish. If possible, resist drinking this wine for 10 years. Drink 2036-2085

Amiot-Servelle, ChambolleMusigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 95 O

tiny that Rousseau was obliged to blend its Clos de Bèze and Chambertin. The result is a massive, almost imposing wine that is a triumph given the vintage conditions. The aromas are initially somewhat closed, but it opens on the palate with ripe black cherry fruit and notes of earth, leather and spice.

The texture is tannic and firm – Cyrielle Rousseau thinks that it will take longer to digest the aromas from the barrel ageing.

Despite the challenging vintage, this is a lovely success with a long future ahead.

Drink 2035-2060

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, La Tâche Grand Cru Monopole 96 B Oddly, the 2024 La Tâche seems more reserved than the Romanée-Conti – the roles are frequently reversed. The wine opens on the palate with the explosive mulberry and plum fruit aromas that are the glory of La Tâche. The texture is brooding, but allowing for time, one can see that this is a complete La Tâche, with the balance, power, fruit and substance one expects. The White

Red wines

Definitive proof, were any required, that this estate is among the very top rank in Chambolle. ‘High energy explosion’ was my first comment on the day in response to the profuse aromas of ripe cherry, violets and spice. There is more purity and less savoury character here than in some years.

Still, this intense fruit yields a very creamy texture, powerful extract and a silky tannic line that should age exceptionally well.

Drink 2032-2055

Anne Gros, Richebourg Grand Cru 95 Marvellously balanced, with an elegant, ripe black and red fruit aroma and a hint of violets. Great purity of fruit, but with enough weight and substance to make it count. The fresh acidity of 2024 draws this to a marvellous length, with a vibrant texture and dynamic feel on the palate. This wine will open in five to seven years and should drink well for decades after that. Produced using organic and biodynamic methods.

Drink 2032-2065

Domaine d’Eugénie, Echezeaux Grand Cru 95 O New winemaker Jaeok Chu Cramette is making excellent use of the new parcel of Echezeaux she received from Bouchard – her 2024 is marvellous, with abundant

TOP PRODUCER Estate director and winemaker Jacques Devauges has delivered a substantial wine of impressive structure and lovely length in a very trying year. The aromas aren’t as forward as the premiers crus, but they open on the palate to show nuanced flavours of pomegranate and ripe black cherry with hints of liquorice, smoke and earth. This wine should open well after five or six years and drink for at least 20 beyond that; it is really top-level wine.

Drink 2032-2055

Domaine des Lambrays, Nuits-StGeorges 1er Cru La Richemone 95 O Opulent floral and ripe black cherry aromas are sensual and very prominent; Jacques Devauges qualifies them as ‘candied fruit and bitter orange’. The texture is silky, yet there is density here. Although this parcel is in Nuits, it leans hard to the Vosne Romanée side, north of the village. The tiny 12hl/ha yields in 2024 gave only three barrels, but it is worth seeking out. Try this in three to five years to enjoy the freshness of the fruit in its youth. Drink 2028-2050

Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier Aux Moines 95 O Grape-growing, winemaking and maturation are kept separate for the estate’s flagship red, but the representative 2024 blend is exciting, with ripe, forward aromas of mulberry fruit, earth, smoke and spice. It’s surprisingly muscular for the vintage, showing abundant structure and weight. The wine should be approachable with two to three years in the bottle, but it should also age well. Drink 2026-2050

Domaine Fourrier, GevreyChambertin 1er Cru Clos St-Jacques 95 This is always an imposing wine, and in 2024, it’s among my favourite Gevrey premiers crus. Bright, forward pomegranate and cherry fruit, with hints of violets and flinty minerality. Lots of energy and freshness, but it lacks neither depth nor

Decanter | January 2026 | 51

VINTAGE PREVIEW: BURGUNDY 2024 structure. The wine is open and accessible, yet it still has power. Prudent wine lovers will wait at least five years before opening and enjoy it over the next 20.

Drink 2030-2050

Domaine Georges Roumier, Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 95 TOP PRODUCER Initially reticent, this opens up with ripe, expressive plum and pomegranate fruit flavours on the palate, coloured with hints of earth and spice. The texture is dense but not overly tannic, yet there is everything here that one would want from Bonnes-Mares. This exemplary wine was fermented with a surprising 75% whole clusters, yet there is nothing stemmy or astringent here. This will open up in five years and should drink well for 30 years beyond. Drink 2032-2060

Méo-Camuzet, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Au Cros Parantoux 95 Bright blackberry aromas, expressive, with a hint of violet and sage. There is no lack of freshness, despite a relatively high pH; the acidity and grippy tannins carry the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes underwent a 21-day fermentation to slowly build the richness of this delicious wine. It should open up in three to five years and be enjoyed for decades. Drink 2032-2065

Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs 95 B TOP PRODUCER ‘Harmonious construction, almost ready to drink,’ according to Frédéric Lafarge, and I am ready to agree. This is an exquisite wine from a fairly miserable year. The Lafarge team spared no effort – the bunches were destemmed entirely by hand, and the care shines through, with ripe, silky cherry fruit, hints of peony and earth, and an almost ethereal texture on the palate. This year, for me it is the finest wine in this cellar.

Drink 2030-2050

Domaine Michel Mallard, Corton Grand Cru Le Rognet 95 Always among my favourites from this village and the 2024 is no exception, with its pronounced raspberry and blackberry fruit aromas and hints of violet and smoke.

The texture is firm and muscular, very unlike many in this vintage. From the 1.27ha mid-slope parcel, the grapes are fermented mostly as whole clusters.

The wine is ageing in five barrels, three of them new. Drink 2032-2055

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Anne Gros, Le Grand Maupertuis Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 94 Prominent aromas of blackberry, accented by suggestions of earth, spice and walnut.

Rich, supple texture with a lingering, almost decadent finish. In a vintage that was difficult in the Clos, this is at the top of the appellation, yet forward enough to begin drinking in three to five years. The grapes are from old vines, originally planted by Anne’s grandfather. Drink 2028-2050

Domaine Arlaud, GevreyChambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes 94 B Lovely expressive aromas of ripe raspberry and mulberry with a floral edge, then a texture that balances freshness and silky tannins. The grapes are from nearly a half-hectare of old vines near LatricièresChambertin. In 2024, no whole clusters were used, and the grapes were all destemmed by hand before a careful fermentation. Drink 2028-2045

Domaine Armand Rousseau, Les Mazottes Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 94 Due to the infinitesimal 2024 yields in Mazy-Chambertin and RuchottesChambertin, the two had to be blended, so the resulting wine will lose grand cru status; Cyrielle Rousseau jokes it should be called the ‘Cuvée Mazottes’. The wine is approachable and lush, with abundant red and black fruit on the nose, hints of spice and smoke. Silky, almost hedonistic in texture, the wine is absolutely delicious but lacks some of the intensity of the Mazy and Ruchottes on their own. The domaine will likely hold back the release and sell it later so that it will be consumed. Drink 2030-2050

10

11

12

Above: David Croix, Domaine des Croix Above right: Les Petits Vougeots, with the Château du Clos de Vougeot in the background 10 Domaine Chicotot, Nuits-StGeorges 1er Cru Les St-Georges 94 O

ONE TO WATCH Beautiful ripe damson with hints of rose petals and black tea leap from the glass. The texture is long, bright and lovely. The domaine made all of the appellations, but some in quantities so low they will remain elusive: there is just one 128L feuillette barrel and two glass demijohns for this wine. If you’re lucky enough to find stock, try to hold off for five years before drinking. Drink 2028-2050

Domaine Dujac, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 94 O TOP PRODUCER This opens marvellously on the palate with rich, plummy fruit character, hints of spice and bramble.

It is more forward than the CharmesChambertin and also more substantial on the palate, with admirable density of texture and a good depth of fruit. Clean and pure, this is a winning Clos de la Roche that should drink well after five years in the cellar. Drink 2032-2055 11 Domaine Duroché, Vieilles Vignes Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St-Jacques 94

TOP PRODUCER Profuse aromas of ripe blackberry, with notes of peony, anise and smoke lead into a voluptuous texture, velvety tannins and abundant depth. Both cuvées of Lavaut are good this year, but there is noticeably more concentration and depth here in the version made with the O Organic B Biodynamic

Domaine Caroline Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Boudriotte 93 Lovely plummy fruit aroma, hints of violets and earth. Silky and delicate, yet it still has grip, and the balance of fruit to structure and weight is superb. The grapes are from two parcels: one with 80-year-old vines in the lieu-dit Fairendes (which falls under the Boudriotte umbrella), the other with 40-year-old vines in Boudriotte proper.

They were fermented as 50% whole clusters in 2024 and are ageing now in barrel, mainly used. Drink 2028-2045

Domaine des Croix, Beaune 1er Cru Les Bressandes 93

old vines planted in 1923. There is only one barrel, but it will be worth the effort to seek this out, although the classic cuvée will provide ample consolation.

Drink 2030-2050

Domaine Georges MugneretGibourg, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru 94

PHOTOGRAPHS CHRISTINA RASMUSSEN (9), CLARE SHAHEEN, ERIC FEFERBERG/AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES

The 2024 Ruchottes-Chambertin is the top of the range at Mugneret-Gibourg. While the vintage delivered relatively light wines, there is no loss of density here. The wine shows a pleasant plummy fruit character with an undercurrent of dark chocolate and ground coffee. There is noticeably more density and grip than the other wines in this cellar, and the balanced acidity carries the wine to a lingering finish. Drink 2030-2050

Act fast to secure your 2024 Burgundy For full tasting notes on the 60 wines shown here, plus notes and scores for 590 more 2024 wines from all of Burgundy – Charles Curtis MW’s selection of the challenging 2024 vintage, tasted and rated exclusively by him for Decanter – along with his comprehensive analysis of the vintage, go to decanter.com/premium To find all our Burgundy coverage, including the latest features and reports, scan the QR code

Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 94 TOP PRODUCER True to its appellation, this is substantial initially, if somewhat closed. The colour was oddly lighter than others in this cellar, but the wine was tannic and powerful on the palate, where abundant aromas of curranty fruit, anise and earth opened up. There is a brooding, almost rustic edge, but given time it should open well and enjoy a long drinking window. Drink 2032-2060 12 Domaine Jessiaume, Numerus Clausus Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières 94 O

This bottling is among the most satisfying red wines of the appellation in 2024, with a profoundly aromatic nose with plummy fruit and hints of earth, smoke and spice. The Red wines

texture is noticeably more tannic and firm than the classic Gravières, and the finish is longer. The wine is a barrel selection from the estate’s oldest vines in the cru. This year, there are three barrels and two are new, so it is marked by the wood, but this should dissipate with time. Drink 2028-2040

TOP PRODUCER This surprisingly powerful wine has ripe, plummy fruit with a savoury edge and a strong mineral underpinning, leading into a firmly tannic, muscular texture on the palate and a lingering finish. From 0.88ha high on the Bressandes slope, the fruit was destemmed entirely and the wine aged in barrel, one quarter new. Farmed using organic methods. Drink 2028-2050

Domaine François Buffet, Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Rougeotte Monopole 93 O This half-hectare monopole has produced a lovely wine in 2024, with ripe plummy fruit, good depth of flavour and enough structure and grip to age. The farming is organic, and the plot is ploughed by horse. Production in 2024 was tiny: two barrels this year instead of 10 in 2023. Drink 2028-2040

Domaine Edmond Monnot & Fils, Maranges 1er Cru Clos de la Boutière 91 This wine stood out at a recent blind tasting with its pretty aromas of plummy fruit with accents of violets and earth. It’s silky and supple, but there is also enough substance to ensure a lingering finish. A delightful wine that should drink well from release.

Drink 2026-2032

Comte Armand, Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux Monopole 93 O

Domaine Guy & Yvan Dufouleur, Les Dames Huguette Bourgogne HautesCôtes de Nuits 91

Ripe blackberry and mulberry aromas with an edge of bramble and a hint of earth.

Impressive structure and grip, and a long finish. Owner Paul Zinetti says that he kept the press wine separate to maintain purity.

The result is elegant and sophisticated.

Drink 2028-2040

TOP VALUE A delightful wine that punches above its weight, with a classic nose of cherry, leather and earth. Balanced, elegant and round on the palate. The grapes are from 2.8ha high above Nuits-St-Georges, and the wine is now ageing in 500-litre barrels, 25% new. Drink 2026-2032

Decanter | January 2026 | 53

Heitz Cellar

Seven years into its new ownership, decades of commitment to place and a traditional approach at this historic Napa Valley producer continue, reflected in a style and elegance that can be seen and tasted in vintages both old and new WORDS CLIVE PURSEHOUSE WINE SELECTION JONATHAN CRISTALDI

T

he road that winds its way to Heitz Cellar and the historic property, which includes a barrel house built in 1898, is a trip back in time. A quiet slice of the old Napa, tucked amid sprawling oak trees away from the tasting room traffic on the Silverado Trail.

Founded by Joe and Alice Heitz in 1961, Heitz quickly established itself among America’s great producers. A pioneer in many ways, Heitz created America’s first single vineyard-designate, the 1966 Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, becoming the first to champion terroir in Napa and the US. ‘There have only been three winemakers in Heitz’s history,’ Carlton McCoy MS tells me. ‘Joe, his son David and Brittany Sherwood.’ Joe passed the baton to David in the late 1970s. Sherwood, the current director of winemaking, has been at the helm since 2018, when the property was acquired by Lawrence Wine Estates, of which McCoy is CEO. (She worked for six years alongside David Heitz, taking the lead in the cellar with the 2016 vintage.)

Less about the barrel

The ‘Heitz style’ has always been about flavour from fruit, eschewing extraneous tannin from overextraction or overt oak. ‘Joe felt that it [overtly tannic wine] was just an excuse, a lazy way of making Cabernet,’ McCoy explains.

‘Oak can give you an illusion of opulence and pedigree, but you’re not assessing the density and length of the wine. So we taste the wines a year after harvest, before they see any oak. That’s when we choose the single-vineyard wines over the Napa Valley designate. It’s also when we decide on ageing regimes and oak to finish the wines, based on what we think they need.’

The single-vineyard Heitz wines are released four years from harvest, and the Napa Valley designate is released three years after harvest.

‘At some point in the transition between Joe and David, I can only imagine as an attempt to “modernise”, they began using a higher proportion 54 | Decanter | January 2026

of barrique and, more importantly, a much greater proportion of new barrique,’ says McCoy. ‘For us, it was critical to return to the original style, but with larger casks. We have reduced the proportion of barrique and new barrique and now use a much larger percentage of 1,000- to 2,000-litre foudre. We also still use the large casks that are 10,000 to 20,000 litres. We think the wines are fresher, and it allows us to secure density in the mid-palate, which you lose in smaller barriques.’

As the rest of Napa Valley moved towards new oak, and plenty of it in the form of smaller barriques, David Heitz veered Heitz Cellars a little in that direction, before correcting course after a few years.

‘We’ve taken it back even further,’ McCoy explains, in terms of minimising the oak impact. ‘We have to ask the question, if Joe were still here, would he be making the wines the same way? No, he wouldn’t; he’d want to focus on making the wines better.’

For McCoy, Sherwood and the Heitz team, that improvement is mostly gained in the vineyards, through a series of small tweaks to polish what is already renowned as classic.

Freshness in the vineyard

‘We’re making wines now that are closer to the alcohol levels from the 1970s. But we’re not doing it by picking early,’ McCoy clarifies, ‘it’s a combination of factors that help with the maturity of the fruit.’

By moving completely to biodynamics – conversion began after the 2019 vintage and Demeter certification was achieved a few years later – and significantly reducing irrigation, as well as bringing in a reduced- or no-till approach and interplanting between vine rows, the team at Heitz is seeing a concentration married to freshness in the fruit as it’s harvested. This means that much of the work is done before the winemaking begins.

‘When you irrigate and have a big crop hanging on the vines, it slows down the maturity of the fruit,’ McCoy says. ‘For Cabernet, it’s not about picking earlier; it’s about balancing phenolic, or physiological, ripeness [relating to the grape skins, seeds and stems]

An extraordinary vertical tasting (see p56) held at Heitz Cellar in St Helena, Napa Valley, last March

Above from left: Lawrence Wine Estates CEO Carlton McCoy MS with Decanter’s Regional Editor for North America Clive Pursehouse and Napa correspondent Jonathan Cristaldi

Decanter | January 2026 | 55

with lower sugars [ie, potential alcohol]. After 24° Brix [a standard measure of sugar content in solution], it’s no longer sugar accumulation, it’s the concentration of sugar through dehydration and raisination.’

The Heitz team is committed to picking at a level of 24°-24.5° Brix at most, and aiming for full phenolic ripeness at that sugar level. They achieve fruit concentration through lower yields [quantity of fruit per vine] and largely by dry-farming. This means the fruit comes in balanced yet concentrated.

The Heitz Cellar vertical

If there is a signature of the Heitz wines, it’s that they are shot through with forest character, whether it’s described as bay leaf, pine resin, spearmint or even eucalyptus. The lively and elegant arboreal essence is the calling card for Heitz, both in the wines made today and indeed back to the 1969-vintage Lot C-91.

As a central part of our preparation for this article, McCoy presented a dazzling array of Heitz wines, 43 in all, for me and Decanter’s Napa correspondent Jonathan Cristaldi (see his tasting notes on a selection of 10 of them, p57). A dramatic case was immediately made regarding Heitz’s freshness as we nosed our first wine, the 1978 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: remarkable, and still exuberant, 47 years in.

The throughline was pronounced as we tasted a range of vintages, some of them regarded as hot, others rainy, wet and difficult. Yet a consistency was evident: balanced, fresh and light on their feet, even in hot years; lively throughout, persistent forest elements that framed taut, fresh violets and blue/black fruits in each and every vintage.

In his day, influential US critic Robert Parker would write off an entire vintage, particularly one like 2011, yet today this is a Heitz wine that’s showing dazzingly, overtly floral, fresh and vibrant.

Many of the farming changes at Heitz were initiated in 2019, and McCoy believes this work will be clear to see in the wines moving forward. The Linda Falls Vineyard Cabernet from that vintage is now tasting focused and precise, with a pronounced clarity and heightened fruit intensity.

And going back, the 1979 Martha’s Vineyard designate bottling is perfect (as per Cristaldi’s 56 | Decanter | January 2026

‘The lively and elegant arboreal essence is the calling card for Heitz’ 100-point score), showing elegance and structure that is evocative of Barolo, or even Burgundy, with that forest-driven complexity and brilliant tension – a timeless Napa Cabernet that sets a benchmark for the region among the world’s great wines.

Restoring balance

For McCoy, one of the primary missions is to set a course for a return to a classic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: more honest, authentic and balanced.

Joe Heitz had a notoriously difficult relationship with Robert Parker, famously once sending him a box of handkerchiefs after Parker had described the Heitz wines as lacking in aromatics. Yet it’s Parker’s outsized impact on Napa’s wines as a whole that McCoy feels as if he’s still pushing back on today.

‘Philosophically, my biggest challenge with so-called modern Napa is that it wasn’t driven by the winemakers, or climate,’ says McCoy. ‘The style that came about in the late 1980s is thanks to one man.

It’s a style that is still very much around today. But the fact is, wineries did what they did at the time in order to stay afloat. It may seem hard to believe, but the wrong score from one guy could essentially put you out of business back then.

‘A lot of wines, and this isn’t just in Napa, but throughout the world, were made to cater to one man’s palate. And this is the result: you have a lot of winemakers who don’t like to drink the wines they’re making. That’s a real tragedy, in my opinion.’

McCoy concludes that ‘freshness’ is perhaps an overused term. ‘But we’re talking about a balance between acidity and the rest of the structure of the wine. Your mouth waters, and you want more. That’s been missing in too many wines for too long.’

The team at Heitz wants to remind the wine world why Napa was considered great in the first place.

Above from left: Heitz Cellar director of winemaking Brittany Sherwood; Decanter Regional Editor Clive Pursehouse at the vertical tasting held at Heitz. Opposite: Jonathan Cristaldi

TASTED NON-BLIND

CALIFORNIA: HEITZ CELLAR

The taste of Heitz across six decades: Cristaldi’s 10 highlights A selection by Jonathan Cristaldi from 43 wines at a vertical tasting held in March 2025.

Those marked O are certified by California Certified Organic Farmers. To see full notes and scores on these and the 33 other wines tasted, go to decanter.com/premium

finish. There’s a Barolo-like finesse combined with the elegance of Pommard.

Notes of black truffle, tobacco, sagebrush, white pepper, coriander and sandalwood add further complexity. This might be one of the finest wines Napa has ever produced.

Drink 2026-2040 Alc 13.5%

Heitz Cellar, Napa Valley 2021 99 O

Heitz Cellar, Napa Valley 1978 97

US$61 Widely available Remarkably pure and fresh. Pristine black cherry and blackberry, layered with beautiful violet aromas. Everything builds with precision and focus, supported by gorgeously firm, taut, mineral-rich tannins that bring energy and drive. The wine is compact and tightly wound at this youthful stage, its intensity truly emblematic of the vintage. Drink 2026-2060 Alcohol 13.5%

A host of gorgeous aromatics – black truffle, redcurrants, beautiful bay laurel and spearmint – build with real intensity on the medium-bodied palate. There’s remarkable staying power and depth of fruit, cycling through dusty tannins and pronounced saline-mineral tension. Long, expressive, fresh and utterly inviting, with beautifully complex layers of fruit, spice and vibrant acidity still providing good grip. Absolutely rocking at 47 years old. Plain evidence that well-made California wine can age gracefully. Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13.5%

Heitz Cellar, Lot C-91, Napa Valley 2021 98 O heitzcellar.com

The fruit, aromatic precision and focus of this wine are something to experience.

Compact, with firm, taut, mineral-rich tannins and gorgeously pure cherry fruit, underpinned by graphite minerality and fragrant violets with white pepper nuances, and showing stunning purity of fruit on the lengthy finish. Drink 2026-2055 Alc 13.5%

Heitz Cellar, Linda Falls Vineyard, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley 2019 97 O £160 (ib) Berry Bros & Rudd Pretty and focused, laced with bright acidity. Aromas of cherry and blackberry fruit mingle with crushed cocoa nibs, violets and rose petals. The palate builds with great intensity, juicy acids and a host of warm, spiced red and black fruit, along with fresh floral nuances. Soaring yet refined tannins lead to a long finish marked by salty mineral tension. Drink 2026-2055 Alc 14%

PHOTOGRAPHS ALEXANDER RUBIN (5)

Heitz Cellar, Trailside Vineyard, Rutherford, Napa Valley 2016 96 O £165 Berry Bros & Rudd Enticing mulberry fruit notes are complemented by fragrant sagebrush, while blood orange acidity supports the medium- to full-bodied palate. Rich and expressive, with Pinot-like vibrancy, it shows exceptional grip and tension, carrying through to a long, mineral-rich finish. Drink 2026-2055 Alc 14%

Heitz Cellar, Napa Valley 2011 97 O Delivers remarkably beautiful aromatics of spearmint, bay laurel and dried eucalyptus O CCOF Organic

Red wines

Heitz Cellar, Martha’s Vineyard, Oakville, Napa Valley 1975 99 US$996-$1,900 Aabalat, Belmont Wine leaves. Vibrant, fresh palate, balanced by a cooling, menthol-like acidity. The tannin profile in this vintage differs from older Napa Heitz – more coiled and tense, with fine, pinpoint tannins and lacy acidity.

Superbly fresh and inviting, this is certainly a wine to continue cellaring for many years to come. Drink 2026-2055 Alc 13.5%

Heitz Cellar, Martha’s Vineyard, Oakville, Napa Valley 1997 95 O

Exchange, Only Dram

Wonderful aromas of smoky minerals, smoked paprika and sea salt, with dried bay laurel and eucalyptus. Currant fruit and ironstone minerality follow, framed by ripe tannins that still offer grip and intensity.

Pure, pretty and complex, layered with remarkable intensity and saline-mineral elegance. Complete and full, it’s beautifully composed and as utterly delicious as aged wine can be. Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13.5%

US$350-$500 Blacksmith Wines, Cana Wine Co, Estate Wine Brokers, Fine Liquors, GRW Wine Collection, Meritage, WineBank

Dark-fruited and savoury, boasting a kind of walnut husk intensity, black olive and olive pit, and expressive tannins that stretch out with a rich, cedar wood character. Beautiful blackcurrant and blackberry fruit are layered with crushed violets, a hint of vanilla and pulverised wet river stone. The length is astonishing. Drink 2026-2035 Alc 14.3%

Heitz Cellar, Martha’s Vineyard, Oakville, Napa Valley 1979 100 US$650-$655 Cult Wines, The Odd Wine Co A perfect wine today, more than 46 years after the grapes were harvested. The aromatics here are stunningly pure – currant fruit, spice and tobacco, lifted by spearmint, dried sagebrush and eucalyptus. The tension is off the charts, with beautifully preserved tannic structure – firm, taut, mineral-driven tannins – and an everlasting

Heitz Cellar, Lot C-91, Napa Valley 1969 100 US$800 Acker Wines One of only three bottles that remained at the time of tasting, at 56 years old this is remarkable, vibrant and alive – one of the most satisfying and captivating older wines I’ve ever tasted. Fresh from the pull of the cork, it’s layered and complex, with impressive density and perfectly integrated, beautifully dusty tannins melting into cocoa powder dust and crushed volcanic minerality. Notes of currants, tobacco, bay laurel, spearmint and white pepper. Chalky tannins unfurl with finesse. The vintage was famously long and cool, intriguingly similar to what Napa experienced in 2023. A rare peek into the ultra-rarified world of the longest-lived Napa wines, this wine should stand as a powerful testament to the ageing potential of pedigreed Napa Valley wine.

Drink 2026-2030 Alc 13%

Decanter | January 2026 | 57

UNDER THE RADAR

Dr Edge

A 10-year retrospective tasting of 48 wines from this little-known Tasmanian winery has highlighted the skill of their unconventional, music-obsessed maker STORY CASSANDRA CHARLICK

G

rowth occurs at the edge of one’s comfort zone, and it’s safe to say that Tasmanian winemaker Peter Dredge’s life has remained constantly on the precipice of comfort.

While he hails from South Australia, he’s not from a wine family, and his winemaking journey hasn’t followed a conventional path. In fact, there’s nothing conventional about Dredge. ‘I was a bit of a jock. I wanted to play AFL [Australian rules football] and be a physio.

Unfortunately, an errant discus got me in the head in my last year of high school,’ he says, while placing a record onto the decks at the tasting table. Rehabilitation followed, but while he (mostly) recovered his balance, the future of a sports career and the hearing in his left ear never returned.

Dredge’s setback cost him an extra year of school, following which (and a gap year) he landed a lab job at Petaluma with Brian Croser in 1997. ‘I fell in love with the wine industry,’ he says. ‘I was in a pretty low place and listening to very dark, evocative 1990s trip hop, mostly based around Massive Attack. I was making the cellar hands listen to this morose stuff. Ironically, it’s called the Headz series, and I’d just been clocked in the head.’

After a 12-year tenure at Petaluma, he leapt to the cooler climes of Tasmania and joined Bay of Fires, staying there for the next five years. ‘We worked with 13 growers around Tasmania,’ he says. ‘I pitched the idea for a bit of sub-regional differentiation between the Bay of Fires Pinot and Rieslings, but that wasn’t the direction they wanted to take.’ Thankfully, they didn’t.

‘When I started Dr Edge, that’s where the north-, the east- and the south-style wines started to eventuate.’

PHOTOGRAPH MILTON WORDLEY

Hitting the right notes

The common thread that runs through Dredge’s entire winemaking journey has been music. ‘To the chagrin of the corporate marketers, I said, “We don’t have stuck ferments if we have hip hop playing.” So I used to have concert speakers set up and would pump it through the winery.’

Dredge has been making wine under the Dr Edge name since 2015. His labels speak to the cultural zeitgeist and the deep connection between music and wine.

58 | Decanter | January 2026

‘While playing those tunes in my early days, I thought if I ever started my own label, I’d try to get a similar picture [to those on the Headz album covers]. Lots of the contributing artists on the [Headz albums] were experimental [visual] artists, including Massive Attack’s Robert “3D” Del Naja.

I managed to acquire a couple of art pieces from Bristol 15 years ago, and since then we’ve had a very amiable exchange of wine sent to the recording studio in Bristol for artwork or rights to use all the artworks on the labels.’ Del Naja’s philanthropy and generosity inspired Dredge to set up his charity magnum program, whereby the retail value of all Dr Edge magnums is donated to the Hobart City Mission.

Initially, the wines were made at Moorilla on Hobart’s Berriedale peninsula, so it’s fitting that this 10-year retrospective tasting of 48 Dr Edge wines took place at Mona, the Museum of Old and New Art, which forms part of Moorilla Estate.

Dredge also makes wine for many of the state’s smaller producers and was instrumental in opening a new custom crush facility in Cambridge, on the outskirts of Hobart. The facility is set to close in early 2026, and Dredge will be shifting his winemaking to a nearby winery in the interim.

A sparkling future

Tracing the Dr Edge wines’ evolution, it becomes clear that regardless of vintage or site selection, there’s a clear stylistic through line. They all exhibit an expressiveness and innate delicacy, in part thanks to a measured, Old World approach to Riesling and a restrained relationship with oak, leaning towards amphora, tank, used oak barrel and foudre.

Recent vintages have shifted from single-site expressions to blends that capture a broader expression of Tasmania. And on my recent visit to the winery, the tunes set the pace for the disgorgement line. ‘It took me five years of Dr Edge before I could start investing in a sparkling wine program, and I’m continuing down that line,’ Dredge says. ‘With the Croser and Bollinger background [the Champagne house was a founding partner in Tapanappa, Croser’s new project after the sale of Petaluma] I grew up with in Adelaide Hills, then House of Arras here, it would White

Red wine

TASTED NON-BLIND

‘I used to have concert speakers set up and would pump hip hop music through the winery’ Peter Dredge

be remiss of me not to make it. Probably 40% of our growth has been sparkling. I’ve always made it for my clients.’

If Dr Edge’s current sparkling releases are anything to go by, the pace is perfectly timed.

Music to the tastebuds: Dr Edge wines to try Dr Edge, Brut Nature, Tamar Valley, Tasmania, Australia NV 94

£24 The Wine Society A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier, with base wine from 2021 and 2022. It might be zero dosage, but this is far from austere: a zippy delight, with fresh lemon sherbet, spring blooms and crushed shell. A balanced NV with plenty of interest, just-there brioche complexity, a fine texture and great length. It’s a touch briny and wild, but the final effect is one of completeness and clarity. Drink 2025-2028 Alcohol 12.5%

Dr Edge, Pinot Noir, Tasmania, Australia 2024 95 £29 The Wine Society From a warmer year, allowing for a generosity of fruit. The grapes are from the Derwent and Tamar valleys in 13 individually handled parcels. The nose is super-fragrant, redberried and fresh, with a confectionery touch, a savoury dried herb lift, liquorice and a sweet, musky, floral note. Fine tannins and effortless drive. A savoury hum permeates. Easy to drink, but not simple. Drink 2025-2033 Alc 12.5%

Cassandra Charlick is an independent and awarded wine journalist, travel and food writer, broadcaster and presenter, and is Decanter’s Western Australia correspondent. She has recently relocated to Tasmania

Decanter | January 2026 | 59

WINE & RUNNING

An unorthodox

PAIRING

Running and wine may seem unlikely bedfellows, but the combination is proving increasingly popular STORY MARIANNA HUNT

W

ho would have thought that when six Frenchmen came up with the idea for a fancy dress marathon including 20 stops for wine tasting and nibbles it would result in generations of Zorros, Cleopatras and cowboys throwing up foie gras and oysters in prized Bordeaux vineyards and the instigation of a global phenomenon that today draws thousands of participants each year?

When the Marathon du Médoc was launched in 1985, people thought it was bonkers. At the time, marathons were serious things done by serious people and many local vignerons were unfussed about getting involved, according to Hubert Rocher, who co-founded the race with five friends.

‘In the beginning, the owners of the châteaux said, “We don’t need promotion for Médoc wines.” But now the situation is very different,’ he says. ‘Médoc wines are facing big problems.’

The naysayers were proved wrong and by 1994, 8,000 people were taking part each year. Since then, interest in combining running and wine has accelerated at an Olympic pace.

PHOTOGRAPHS YVES MAINGUY (2), GEORG BERG/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

International flavour

In recent years, wine regions and vineyards around the world have been launching their own signature runs – from Moldova (where you run through underground wine cellars) to Alsace via Prosecco.

Some are booze-laced, while at others the drinking is saved for after.

‘People enjoy wine but they want to be healthy.

That’s why these events are so popular,’ says Tamino Simon of Walter Events & Consulting in Ortenberg, Germany, which is throwing down the gauntlet to the Marathon du Médoc by launching a German rival. The Henkell 0.0% Vinothon will ply runners with Riesling, spundekäs (a spiced cream cheese spread) and other local delicacies as they jog through some of the prettiest estates in the Rheingau region.

Unusually, there will be alcohol-free wines, too, courtesy of the event’s sponsor Henkell.

60 | Decanter | January 2026

Wine-based running clubs have even begun to crop up to tap into the growing trend. Katie Brook, founder of Run to Wine, organises regular runs around London that end with a guided wine tasting.

She thinks interest has boomed as the tide turns away from uber-serious running clubs.

‘Many have become too strict and competitive,’ Brook says. ‘People enjoy the social element – and wine helps to bring that. I also wanted to break down barriers around wine, the idea that it’s snobby.

Running helps with that.’

The pairing has precedent, too. ‘French winemakers used to get their staff to run around the vineyards so they’d be fit for harvest,’ says writer Colin Renton. ‘Historically, French people would have bread and wine for their lunch, so they were most likely running and drinking wine.’

Renton gave up his job as an investment writer just before he turned 60 to fulfil a lifelong dream of running a marathon. Upon discovering just how many wine-based runs there were, he decided to spend a year running a race a month (including one full marathon), each in a different wine region.

His travels took him from Jerez in Spain to Hungary, Switzerland, Slovenia and even Belgium.

He published his adventures as a book: The Wine Runner (Polaris Publishing, 2023).

Health benefits

Clearly combining alcohol and running goes against most sane health advice. ‘Don’t be dehydrated, and do try to have an electrolyte afterwards,’ advises Brook. ‘In my runs, we always have a lot of water at the start and end. Plus, we have food and water throughout the wine tasting.’

‘Don’t overdo it,’ Renton suggests. ‘Try not to have more than one glass of wine at each feeding station in a race.’

Four of the original six founders of the Marathon du Médoc were doctors and Rocher (himself an orthopaedic surgeon) says: ‘We think that wine is medicinal. It doesn’t cure diseases, but it can help to prevent them. You just need to avoid abusing it.’

Marianna Hunt is an awarded, UK-based freelance writer specialising in travel, food and wine. She has written for The Times, Telegraph, Spectator, Independent and i paper among others

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‘People enjoy the social element – and wine helps to bring that’ Katie Brook, Run to Wine

Research has shown that one of the secrets to longevity is staying socially active. Both running and wine consumption are activities that come with strong communities, so combining the two can be a good way to boost your social circle. ‘People often come to my runs alone,’ Brook says. ‘Whereas you wouldn’t normally book a wine tasting alone. Lots are new to the area.’

As for Renton, he had been unsure about travelling to all of those wine regions alone. But, he says: ‘If you are a solo traveller, your hotel will be full of other runners that you can speak to, and on the day of the race, there’s a kind of shared community.

You’re never alone if you don’t want to be.’

Clockwise from top: Marathon du Médoc runners pass Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande; Colin Renton (at right) at the start of the Sherry Marathon in the grounds of the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art in Jerez, southern Spain; Katie Brook (second from right) with Run to Wine participants at Denbies Wine Estate in Surrey; one of the Marathon du Médoc’s wine stations; and its finish line

Decanter | January 2026 | 61

Bolgheri latest release

A tricky, drought-stricken 2022 growing season in Tuscany gave birth to a surprising array of exceptional wines. Some of Bolgheri’s leading producers reveal how they managed to rustle up miraculous results, despite the challenges REPORT & SELECTION JAMES BUTTON, DECANTER REGIONAL EDITOR FOR ITALY

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ollowing on from a vintage as superb as 2021 would be a challenge at the best of times, but when the subsequent vintage, 2022, turned out to be extremely arid, prompting plenty of concern during the growing season, the difficulty level ramped up a notch for winemakers in Tuscany’s coastal Bolgheri DOC. Tasting through the vast majority of 2022 Bolgheri Superiore wines to be released this year – some tasted on more than one occasion – the vintage character is clear: density, concentration, slightly firm tannins, but also loads of freshness.

62 | Decanter | January 2026

‘Vintages like 2022 are a bit more complicated,’ Gianluca Putzolu, director of Le Macchiole, tells me.

‘But from the complicated vintages we make the best wines!’

In fact, almost everyone I spoke with in Bolgheri was bullish about the 2022s, despite the tricky season. One or two suggested that quality is better even than 2021.

The 2022 rollercoaster

‘When a vintage is not naturally easy, we pay more attention to the choices we make,’ producer Fabio

Sunset over vineyards in the Maremma region, coastal southern Tuscany

Motta tells me. And that really sums up 2022, where attention to detail was key.

The winter of 2021/2022 was worryingly dry, meaning that there was very little left in the tank for the parched vines to tap into during the hot summer months of 2022. In fact, there was no rain between February and mid-August. The hot conditions accelerated ripening, but then things came to a halt as many vines shut down under the hydric stress conditions. With no rain on the horizon, summer temperatures higher than in 2021, and bunches that were no longer actively ripening, growers were rightly becoming quite concerned.

Finally, some mid-August rains quenched the vines and kickstarted ripening. Those rains, confirms Marco Balsimelli (pictured, p64), production director for Ornellaia and Masseto, ‘allowed the vines to restart the growing, the ripening process’.

He describes 2022 as having ‘a fresh character – a different style [to 2021] but not less quality’.

Many of the wines in 2022 ooze vintage character.

The firmer tannins are a hallmark of an unsteady, stop-start ripening where it had been touch-and-go as to whether they would fully ripen before harvest, while the deep, rich fruits and compact frames evoke the extreme heat of the summer, which in many cases led to smaller berries on bunches and consequent reduced yields.

However, it’s the succulent freshness found in so many wines in 2022 that belies the vintage’s drought conditions – a miraculous recovery from the brink of despair.

Know your vintages 2023

[Rating to come, subject to our review of the 2023 Superiore wines upon release in 2026.]

Selection in the vineyard was critical in 2023 and yields were down, but overall quality was high and the wines are wonderfully aromatic, with a plumper character compared to 2022.

2022

A tough year marked by drought and extreme heat. Mid-August rains quenched the vines and kickstarted ripening. Firmer tannins

are a hallmark of an unsteady, stop-start ripening while the deep, rich fruits and compact frames evoke the extreme heat of the summer. Succulent freshness belies the vintage’s arid conditions.

2021

One of Bolgheri’s finest vintages, combining vibrant fruit, ripe tannins and fresh acidity with impeccable finesse and poise. Bright acidity gives the fruit more crunch and approachability, while also helping to ensure a long life for the wines.

A lighter touch

To maintain high quality, some wineries had to be very selective in the vineyard, such as at Podere Il Castellaccio, which reports producing just 800 bottles of Il Castellaccio Bolgheri Superiore 2022 from its less than 1ha of Cabernet Franc vines.

Some then applied a lighter than usual touch in the cellar. ‘2022 was more challenging – hotter than 2021, with intermittent rain,’ explains Francesco Gagliardi, winemaker at Campo alla Sughera. ‘Extraction was lower, in order to maintain a good balance.’

Decanter | January 2026 | 63

BOLGHERI VINTAGE UPDATE Cabernet Franc has taken a large portion of the limelight in Bolgheri in the last few years, and rightly so. It has found in the region the perfect conditions to show its best side and, to my mind, wines such as the Il Castellaccio Bolgheri Superiore and Le Donne Fittipaldi’s Magnetic Bolgheri Rosso represent an emerging style in which Cabernet Franc and the use of amphorae for ageing play a more dominant role.

And we now see Cabernet Franc pioneer Le Macchiole introducing some Tava amphorae to the traditional barrique ageing regime for its Paleo bottling. I’m sure there will be more to follow.

Bolgheri Rosso 2023

In addition to the new Bolgheri Superiore wines hitting the market this year – predominantly from the 2022 vintage – there are a host of Bolgheri Rosso and Toscana IGTs, mostly but not exclusively from 2023. These tend to be additional wines from the same wineries releasing their Bolgheri Superiore; sometimes styled as a ‘second wine’ à la Bordeaux, and other times a different expression entirely.

2023 was a very different vintage compared to 2022 (see box, p63). Early spring frosts led to some losses, and then conditions became warm and wet. Unlike the dry spring of 2022, persistent rain ensured that underground water reserves were topped up, but also led to breakouts of downy mildew (peronospera) in the vineyards, which required viticultural teams to be on constant standby.

‘In 2023, we didn’t do much délestage [racking of the still-fermenting must to another tank then returning to the original vessel] – we worked with extraction to manage the concentration,’ says Gaia Cinnirella, Masseto’s winemaker, explaining that during the 2023 harvest period they tasted the grapes in the vineyards every day, and picked plot by plot.

Selection in the vineyard was critical in 2023 and yields were down, but overall quality was high and wines are wonderfully aromatic, with a plumper character compared to 2022.

‘I believe 2023 is better even than 2021... nature did fantastic work,’ says Carlo Paoli, Tenuta San Guido general manager and production manager.

Indeed, tasting the Guidalberto 2023 and some barrel samples of Sassicaia 2023, he may have a point.

White resurgence

Bolgheri DOC may be best known for its starstudded red wines, but in fact in its first 10 years of existence – from 1984 to 1993 – it was a white-wineonly denomination; red and rosé wines were added to the regulations in 1994. Since the advent of red Bolgheri DOC, focus has drifted away from the whites, but today there is something of a resurgence.

Vermentino is the leading protagonist, but Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier are also permitted.

And in addition to Bolgheri DOC whites, you can find a whole host of Toscana IGT examples, which 64 | Decanter | January 2026

are able to lean on other varieties and winemaking methods not permitted under the DOC regulations.

The newest vintage for Bolgheri whites, 2024 is described by Martina Chiappini, one of two second-generation sisters running the Chiappini family winery, as a year of ‘quality and quantity’ for white, and it plays to the fresh aromatics that are sought after in these breezy, coastal white varieties.

Antinori-owned Guado al Tasso takes this to the next level by using Vermentino clones from Corsica, which I’m told have more aromatic potential than the traditional Tuscan Vermentino.

Bolgheri’s whites are perfect for lunchtime sipping, perhaps with a plate of fried fish – and ideally in the sunshine. Save the reds for the evening!

Above: production director Marco Balsimelli (see p63) and winemaker Gaia Cinnirella, Masseto Top: Campo alla Sughera winery buildings (see tasting notes, opposite)

‘The 2022 vintage character is clear: density, concentration, slightly firm tannins, but also loads of freshness’

TASTED NON-BLIND

Bolgheri new releases James Button’s pick of notable wines & top-scorers 1

Masseto, Toscana 2026 98

£483 (ib)-£738 Abingdon Fine Wine, Crop & Vine, Cru, Farr Vintners, Fine Wine Direct, Ideal Wine Co, Lay & Wheeler Trading, Millésima, Roberson, Uncorked

The best of both worlds: fruit ripeness and concentration, freshness and poise. Scents of cool, damp earth, dark hedgerow berries, Mediterranean scrub, cocoa and wood give a sense of what’s to come once time has untangled everything. Zingy, crunchy acidity steals the show at first, segueing into a mouthful of succulent yet dense dark berries and spice imbued with plenty of energy.

Then balsamic herbs and floral notes lighten the palate, before a touch of salinity and some bitter herbs emerge on the finish, with a refrain of bright cherry. Something special. Drink 2050-2022 Alcohol 15%

Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore 2022 96 £148 (ib)-£254.40 Berry Bros & Rudd, Burnett & Herbert, Crop & Vine, Cru, Cuchet & Co, Fareham Wine Cellar, Hedonism, Ideal Wine Co,

Bolgheri Rosso: toprated releases in 2025 • Gaja, Ca’Marcanda Camarcanda, Bolgheri 2022 (95 points) • Cipriana, Bolgheri 2023 (93) • Le Macchiole, Bolgheri 2023 (92) • Dario di Vaira, Clarice, Bolgheri 2023 (91) • Gaja, Ca’Marcanda Magari, Bolgheri 2023 (91) • Grattamacco, Bolgheri 2023 (91) • Guado al Melo, Rute, Bolgheri 2022 (91) • Le Donne Fittipaldi, Bolgheri 2023 (91) • Le Donne Fittipaldi, Magnetic, Bolgheri 2023 (91) • Podere Prospero, Bolgheri 2022 (91) (To see James Button’s full tasting notes for these 10 wines, go to decanter.com/premium)

Jeroboams, Millésima, Tanners, Turville Valley

The blend features a hefty 10% of Petit Verdot this year for an injection of freshness and structure. Rich, deep and tightly coiled, with pretty red fruits and floral notes overlaying dark, juicy berries. A dense style that reflects the vintage but looks towards harmony and poise: the woody frame and fine, structural tannins are countered by very good acidity and a bright fruit profile, with breezy herbs helping to lift the long, fresh finish. Give this some more time in the bottle. Drink 2026-2038 Alc 14.5%

Giorgio Meletti Cavallari, Impronte, Bolgheri Superiore 2022 95

US$60-$110 Empire Wine, Gary’s, The Cellar d’Or, The Wine to Buy, Wine.com, Zachy’s

Deep and dark yet precise, with black fruit and balsamic herb scents leading into an intense, silky mouthful of quasi-austere yet inherently juicy black berries framed by balsamic and menthol twists. Sapidity and salinity provide relief and refreshment, and the fine-grained tannins are well integrated yet structural. Touches of orange peel and pomegranate emerge on the long, fresh, succulent finish. Class. Drink 2026-2040 Alc 14.5%

Campo alla Sughera, Arnione, Bolgheri Superiore 2022 94 campoallasughera.com

Powerful yet poised and precise, this needs time. An intense, sapid and succulent core of dark fruits is saturated with balsamic herbs and cocoa. Rich, concentrated and vertical, the fruit is supported by wood and spices, and fine tannins. Very fresh. Yum. Drink 2026-2038 Alc 14.5% 3 Dario di Vaira, CF11, Bolgheri Superiore 2022 94 dariodivairavini.it

Leafy, herbal dark fruit aromas notify the drinker that this is 100% Cabernet Franc.

Intense and vertical, with good concentration, it’s gloriously fresh and succulent, showcasing menthol wafts among the ripe, sapid dark fruits. Really poised and light on its feet, it’s yet again a fantastic effort. Drink 2025-2037 Alc 14%

Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore 2022 93 £75-£103.50 Berry Bros & Rudd, Millésima The estate’s 40th anniversary vintage, this leads with minty red and black berry aromas. Fleshy, sapid and saline, it has a very fresh and vertical profile but is a little bit drying on the finish at this stage. Floral overtones mingle with pepper and herbs, while tangy red forest berries are supported by silky and well-integrated tannins. Tight and energetic. Organic. Drink 2026-2037 Alc 14.5%

Campo al Pero, Dorianae, Bolgheri Superiore 2022 92 campoalpero.it

This blend of the two Cabernets is tight and energetic, showing some minty overtones

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giorgiomeletticavallari.com

A stunning achievement, benefiting from the altitude of the Piastraia vineyard (350m) in this hot year. It opens with pretty floral hints and dark fruits. In the mouth, it’s very structural, with grippy tannins offset by bright acidity. Vertical in shape and saline in character, it showcases layers of ripe, dense red and black fruits, violet and lavender, and menthol. An attractive wine now, it’s also built for the long haul and will reward ageing. Drink 2026-2040 Alc 14.5% 2 I Greppi, Greppicaia, Bolgheri Superiore 2022 95

Red wines

Caccia al Piano, Bolgheri Superiore 2022 94 cacciaalpiano.it

Showing really well, despite its youthful appearance and concentration. Menthol, blackcurrant and forest floor scents with a hint of blood orange introduce an intense, bold yet impeccably fresh palate. Cool, juicy black, blue and red berries are underlined by a hint of graphite. There’s tons of energy, but a slightly dry and woody finish proves that this needs more time. From one of the highest vineyards in Bolgheri, and it shows.

Drink 2026-2038 Alc 14%

Decanter | January 2026 | 65

BOLGHERI VINTAGE UPDATE to the intense black and blue fruits, with a smack of sapidity and streaks of red fruits, salinity and notes of Mediterranean herbs throughout. Drink 2026-2036 Alc 14.5%

More Bolgheri?

In addition to the 15 wines shown here, to find 88 more recent-release Bolgheri wines – Superiores from the 2022 vintage, 2023 Rossos and whites – with scores and full notes

by James Button, go to decanter. com/premium or scan the QR code

Le Donne Fittipaldi, Bolgheri Superiore 2022 92 donnefittipaldi.net

Whites to seek out

4 Campo alla Sughera, Arioso Vermentino, Toscana 2024 91

£23 Vino.com† Breezy, herbal and zesty aromas expand in the mouth to reveal lemon peel, pink grapefruit, apricot skin, then some salinity on the finish. A gloriously fresh white with nice balance between juicy gulpability and complexity. Drink 2026-2028 Alc 13%

Le Vigne di Silvia, Giochessa Vermentino, Bolgheri 2024 89 levignedisilvia.com

apple and minerals. Fresh and energetic, with some rich orange, mango and papaya countered by briny green olives – a deliciously fresh, stony and breezy white.

The pithy finish pops with cool lemony notes. Organic. Drink 2026-2028 Alc 13%

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Vinified part in oak, part in stainless steel, this blend of Vermentino and Verdicchio is then matured in first- and second-use French oak barrels. Precise, fresh and charming, its lemon, apple and herb scents marry with a sweet lemon core fleshed out with flavours of apple, white peach and white flowers. Very fresh, with almost imperceptible oak. Farmed organically.

Drink 2026-2028 Alc 13.5%

Terre del Marchesato, Papeo Vermentino, Bolgheri 2023 89

5 Chiappini, Le Grottine Vermentino, Bolgheri 2024 91

terredelmarchesato.com

Starts out by spending four days on the skins in new French oak barriques before being racked to stainless steel. The result is a rich and complex mouthful of zesty orange and lemon peel, apricot skin and mango. It’s very bright, with lovely freshness to balance the full body, but it’s also just a little bit warming on the finish.

Enjoy it with grilled fish or white meats.

Drink 2026-2029 Alc 13.5%

US$34-$36 Flatiron Wines, Verve Vine I love this! The Vermentino grapes spend about 24 hours in contact with the skins, which gives a touch of phenolic grip. It’s a minty-fresh wine with herbal and grassy aromas mingling with subtle white peach, Argentiera’s Ventaglio vineyard lies about 2km from the Tyrrhenian sea, near Donoratico

White

66 | Decanter | January 2026

£22 Vino.com† Vinified and matured largely in cement vats, 30% is aged in 15hl oak and chestnut barrels. Honeysuckle and white peach scents are accompanied by some zesty orange peel and breezy herbs. Succulent and sapid, saline and zesty, the bright and energetic palate features a touch of phenolic grip. Organic. Drink 2026-2029 Alc 14%

Red wines †Ex-UK stockist, see note on p100

PHOTOGRAPHS STEVANZZ/GETTY IMAGES, JAMES BUTTON (2)

Well balanced, this opens with subtle and smoky plum and black fruits on the nose, floral top notes and a just hint of graphite.

Succulent and juicy vanilla-infused dark fruits with herbal flecks are driven by fresh acidity, which balances the fine, grippy tannins. It finishes slightly dry but is sure to sort itself out given more time in the bottle.

Drink 2026-2034 Alc 14.5%

6 Tenuta Meraviglia, Botro dei Fichi Vermentino, Bolgheri 2024 90

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

St. Andrea Reviving Hungary’s famed volcanic blends

History meets the highest of modern standards at St. Andrea, a passionate family winery expressing the soul of Eger through its acclaimed blends

S

t. Andrea has become synonymous with world-class, award-winning Hungarian wines, which still offer fantastic value compared to many more famous names. The winery is rightly proud of its Best in Show award at DWWA 2021 and has continued this track record with two Gold and four Silver medals at DWWA 2025; multiple other international awards; and the title of Hungary’s ‘Winery of the Year 2025’.

Local heroes What is particularly special is that these medals have been awarded to truly local wines: Egri Bikavér and Egri Csillag. These iconic PDO blends can only be produced in the cool climate of Eger, on volcanic hills in Hungary’s northeast.

György Lőrincz has been winemaker at St. Andrea since its founding, more than 20 years ago. The winery’s name honours its deep connection to Christianity – as well as György’s wife, Andrea, who he says must be a saint to be married to a winemaker.

St. Andrea Agapé Grand Superior Egri Bikavér 2019

St. Andrea’s vineyards sit on volcanic hills in north-eastern Hungary

Bull’s Blood Until recent decades, Egri Bikavér, or ‘Bull’s Blood’, was a simple, rustic red associated with legends of brave Hungarian soldiers fighting off the Turks. Today, St. Andrea’s pioneering work shows that Egri Bikavér can reach the level of a flagship wine.

‘The father and son winemakers share a philosophy: terroir comes first’

A statue of the Virgin Mary watches over the vineyards

Their son György has joined his father at the winery, and father and son share a philosophy: terroir comes first, best expressed through blends based on local varieties that channel the vibrancy of the cool climate and volcanic soils.

Kékfrankos forms the core of all their Bikavérs, giving a real sense of place, with small proportions of at least three other permitted grapes. The vines are lowyielding and the fruit is always harvested by hand – and only when fully ripe.

St. Andrea’s superb Nagy-Eged and Agapé Grand Superior Bikavérs both come from one of Hungary’s highest vineyards, the Nagy-Eged hill, a 501m limestone outcrop where vineyards reach 450m. This is also the origin of the winery’s flagship white, Mária, based on Furmint. This will soon become Egri Csillag, ‘Star of Eger’, the white sister blend to Bikavér, along with St. Andrea’s other Egri Csillags: Örökké and Boldogságos, which both capture the region’s bright elegance.

Discover more: standrea.com/en

Distilled

Your guide to the latest trends in spirits and cocktails EDITED BY JULIE SHEPPARD

Lessons in chemistry

The so-called Golden Ratio of roughly 1:1.618, is found across the natural world – and has been applied to everything from music to art. But what about drinks? That was the question asked by chemist-turned-Master Distiller John Hall, who decided to use the ratio at every stage of production for his new gin: from still design to botanical proportions to dilution. The result is Aureus Vita (Alc 61.8%, £169-£170/70cl Fortnum & Mason, Hedonism), distilled once a year in tune with the harvest of its signature botanicals: juniper and baobab pulp. Tasted neat in a No-Add Martini (75ml of frozen Aureus Vita stirred over ice for 25 seconds) it’s noticeably textured, with detailed, harmonious aromas of camomile, oatmeal, citrus, pine and liquorice. It also makes a delicious AV & Tonic (one part gin to two parts tonic), with that same luxurious richness of texture and a lingering finish laced with blackcurrant leaf, vanilla and rounded earthy notes.

‘Aureus Vita has been created to challenge. I wanted to give people something they could enjoy, yet push boundaries at the same time. Something new. Something that defies everything you thought that gin could be,’ says Hall. We think he’s succeeded. aureus-vita.com

WHAT TO DRINK NOW

Pine Martini (Alcohol Free)

The Fat Duck, Bray, UK thefatduck.co.uk Perfect for Dry January, this nonalcoholic version of The Fat Duck’s vodka-based Pine Martini delivers plenty of flavour but without the booze. Sommelier Melania Bellesini (pictured) says: ‘This is a soft Martini with a twist of pine liquor that reminds me very much of alpine herbs.’ She uses a house-made pine syrup, but Highland Boundary’s Scots Pine Wild Botanical Syrup (£9/250ml Highland Boundary) is a great option if you’re making this at home.

PINE MARTINI (Alcohol Free) Glass Martini Garnish Rosemary sprig

68 | Decanter | January 2026

Method Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing glass, add ice, stir and strain into a chilled Martini glass.

70ml Everleaf Marine 15ml Seedlip Spice 9ml Seedlip Garden 6ml pine syrup

DRINK DICTIONARY

Jigger

Noun / / JIG-uh A small bar tool used for measuring and pouring alcohol, featuring two conjoined cups of different sizes.

notes, it’s a well-balanced take on Amaretto, the Italian sweet almond liqueur. Sip it neat over ice or shake 75ml Lyre’s Amaretti with 15ml lemon juice, 5ml sugar syrup, 10ml egg white and three dashes of Angostura aromatic bitters to create a delicious alcohol-free Amaretto Sour. Alc 0% 4 Pavari 17

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FIVE OF THE BEST

No- and low-alcohol drinks for Dry January

For more on zero alcohol visit decanter. com/spirits

PHOTOGRAPHS MAGS GOUGH, LOLA LAURENT, ELENA SKUGAR/GETTY IMAGES

RECOMMENDED BY JULIE SHEPPARD 1 Bax Botanics Sea Buckthorn

3 Lyre’s Amaretti

£15.95-£19.95/50cl Alcohol Free Drinks Co,

£20.75-£26.86/70cl Distillers Direct, Lyre’s,

Bax Botanics, Field & Fawcett, House of Townend,

Master of Malt, Ocado, The Alcohol Free Co,

Wine Online

The Whisky Exchange, Threshers, Wine Shop

I’ve recommended the brilliant Bax range in these pages before – and it remains one of my favourite zero-alcohol options. Sea Buckthorn is perfect for the winter months: earthy, fruity, spicy, herbal and tangy, with a lipsmacking bitter finish. Distilled in Yorkshire by husband-and-wife team Chris and Rose Bax using organic, ethically sourced herbs and fruit. Pair with ginger ale over ice for a refreshing, spicy long drink. Alcohol 0%

If, like me, you’re a fan of an Amaretto Sour cocktail, then Lyre’s Amaretti should be in your drinks cupboard. With some tangy spice

£19.99/70cl Amazon, Pavari A dead ringer for Aperol, with its vibrant orange colour and bittersweet taste, Pavari 17 is made from a base of alcohol-free white wine with an infusion of 17 Mediterranean botanicals, including Spanish citrus. Pair it with a no- or lowalcohol sparkling wine to create a thirstquenching spritz or serve with soda or tonic over ice. Also available in ready-to-drink Pavari Spritz cans. Alc 0.5% 5 Smiling Wolf Agave

£25.99-£32/70cl Amazon, Dry Drinker, EW Wines, Smiling Wolf, The Alcohol Free Co

Smiling Wolf’s range of functional drinks aim to mimic the social buzz of alcohol with plant-based nootropics. The spicy agave expression is made from a base of the same blue Weber agave that’s used to produce tequila, with the addition of caffeine and L-theanine (an amino acid found in green and black tea that raises your levels of serotonin and dopamine). Enjoy it as a tequila substitute in cocktails: shake 50ml Smiling Wolf Agave with 25ml lime juice and 15ml agave syrup for a guilt-free Margarita. Alc 0.5%

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2 Bemuse Calluna Tarragon

& Basil Brut

£11 Wise Bartender The Bemuse range is inspired by traditional mead recipes and produced via natural fermentation with honey, water and yeast.

Calluna is made from wild heather honey and infused with tarragon, Thai basil and Cascade hops to create a bone-dry, aromatic and herbaceous drink with zesty freshness.

An effervescent alternative to wine, beer or cider, it can be paired with food (think cheese or chicken), enjoyed on its own, or experiment with it to create your own cocktails. Also available in 250ml cans. Alc 0.5%

Decanter | January 2026 | 69

NO ALCOHOL: SHRUBS

Shrubs take root

Unfamiliar to many, shrubs are making waves in the zero-alcohol category. But what is a shrub and how do you drink one?

STORY CHRIS LOSH

T

he growth in alcohol-free drinking has mostly been driven by 0% versions of alcoholic drinks, such as dealcoholised wine or non-alcoholic beer. But now, a growing number of drinks are being created that have no direct alcoholic equivalent.

Tea is a common base (think kombucha or sparkling teas), but so, too, are shrubs.

Also known as switchels, shrubs might seem to be a new phenomenon, but in fact they have a history that goes back centuries.

Shrubs are based on vinegar – usually apple cider vinegar – which sounds like an unpromising starting point for a drink, but actually has several advantages. For starters, drinks without alcohol (or man-made preservatives) eventually go off, but vinegar is a natural preservative. It’s also a very good transporter of flavour, which, again, is a big advantage when there’s no alcohol to do that particular job.

‘Alcohol brings so much to the table – body, mouthfeel and texture,’ says Sam Paget Steavenson at non-alcoholic drinks company Botivo (£27.50/50cl botivodrinks. com, Waitrose). ‘It is also an incredible extractor of flavour and the ultimate preservative. I needed a base that served the same purpose.’

70 | Decanter | January 2026

Sustainable serves

Historically, shrubs were made by macerating fruit, sugar, even vegetables in apple cider vinegar to form a concentrated, highly flavoured and very stable syrup solution. They were a way of using up leftover ingredients – the original sustainable adult soft drink – at a time when there was no refrigeration to keep things fresh.

Now, drinks producers are taking the basic shrub premise and playing with it to create all manner of drinks. Botivo uses wild flower honey plus fresh and dried botanicals to create a unique herbal aperitif with serious depth, complexity and balance.

Wine writer Matthew Jukes uses fruit, herbs and vegetables in a slow coldextraction process to create his Cordialities (£3-£5/250ml can jukescordialities.com), a range of still and sparkling drinks with bright flavours, a savoury mid-palate and bustling acidity.

Though they aren’t wine, they’re absolutely doing the same job.

In Suffolk, Henry Chevallier Guild of the Aspall cyder- and vinegar-making dynasty uses just cider vinegar, a concentrate made from bittersweet cider apples and cardamom extract to make a joyfully approachable shrub under the brand name Nonsuch (see ‘One to try’). Shake 25ml in a

Antilockwise from above: Cordialities’ Jukes 1, the white iteration of its range of shrub drinks; Nonsuch; Botivo’s non-alcoholic aperitivo

sour with 50ml of apple juice and 25ml of egg white and people don’t even realise it’s alcohol-free, Chevalier Guild says.

‘You know you’ve won people over when they say, “I love that, but I can’t have any more because I’m driving,”’ he says with a laugh.

ONE TO TRY

Nonsuch Bittersweet Apple & Cardamom Shrub, UK £17.59-£22/50cl Back to mine, Drink Supermarket, Master of Malt, Nonsuch, The Whisky Exchange

Intense flavours of honey, citrus and apple compote burst onto the palate in a plush rolling wave. Natural fruit sweetness is balanced by the shiny zip of the vinegar and bright pinpoints of cardamom. Hugely moreish and very concentrated, so if drinking it long, mix it 1:8 with soda. Alcohol 0%

Books etc

Our regular reviewer is excited by the first instalment in a new series on Bordeaux’s communes REVIEWS SOPHIE THORPE

PHOTOGRAPH BOKASANA/GETTY IMAGES

T

here’s nothing better than a really good wine visit. Geeking out in the vineyard and winery, talking to people who know their little patch of land better than anyone else, exploring exactly what makes that place special and tasting the results isn’t just a joy – it’s an honour. It’s the behind-the-scenes, all-access tour.

A new series of books aims to capture that experience on the page. Written by Marc Bouffard (who you may know better by his Instagram handle, @englishmans_ claret), the series will tackle each of Bordeaux’s main communes via its most famous estates. The first focuses on St-Julien. The appellation isn’t Bordeaux’s most illustrious, nor is it home to the region’s most prestigious addresses; indeed, it’s often defined by its neighbours (combining the elegance of Margaux and the structure of Pauillac), rather than being given its own identity – and yet its understated wines are some of the region’s most reliable (and my personal favourites, as it happens).

Bouffard doesn’t work in wine – he’s an assistant professor of neurology at Harvard University by day – but his interest has long been more than pedestrian, as this book clearly shows. It’s divided into sections on each of St-Julien’s 11 grands crus classés, with details on each property’s history, terroir and work in the vineyard and winery, the style of the wines and tasting notes for vintages going back to the 1920s.

As he highlights, this isn’t an unbiased work and he emphasises how his close ties to the region and its winemakers have made the book possible. Yet he presents each property’s approach without judgement, the writing clear, informative and considered. Far from an impenetrable reference guide, but not in the least oversimplified, the book successfully transports you to the different estates – allowing you to meet the characters behind each and walk among the vines.

There are minor frustrations for me. One Alessandro Masnaghetti map features (sometimes

cut in half) several times across the book, which – if nothing else – feels inefficient. One, more detailed map that could be referenced throughout, showing more than just the plots owned by each château, would be brilliant – topography, soils, further context and even just a compass rose would be handy.

The proliferation of Oxford commas (from the subtitle and beyond) is irksome and I’d love to see drinking windows in the tasting notes, making them more practical for readers.

But these are, as I say, minor – and perhaps things that can be remedied when the next in the series comes along. I, for one, will definitely be looking out for it.

Saint-Julien: Vineyards, Cellars, People, and Place by Marc Bouffard (£65 Wine Education Council Press & Académie du Vin Library, October 2025)

Sophie Thorpe is an awarded wine writer based in London, largely writing in-house for merchant Fine & Rare.

Her work can be found at firstpress.uk

Drip, drip, drip…

It’s here, finally. This month sees the second season of Drops of God arrive on Apple TV+, two years after we were blessed with the first. The French-Japanese show is based on the eponymous manga series by Tadashi Agi, and Season 1 deservedly earned an International Emmy for Best Drama Series. Tune in for an episode a week from 21 January.

Decanter | January 2026 | 71

What to pair with tea

Thanks to its inherent complexities, tea is particularly adept at pairing with food, making it a great alternative to wine STORY FIONA BECKETT

T

he idea of drinking tea with a meal is, of course, nothing new. As a teen I used to do it regularly in Chinese restaurants with my parents – inhaling the sweet, heady scent of jasmine, watching the chrysanthemum flowers unfurl. And tea lists have been common in high-end restaurants for a while, particularly those with an Asian clientele.

But tea pairing, especially as part of a tasting menu, is relatively new and increasing in popularity due to the growing demand for sophisticated noand low-alcohol options. One third of diners at London’s Ikoyi restaurant go for the tea pairing, particularly early in the week and at lunch, says head sommelier Federico Quintavalle.

Tea has much to offer the wine lover, with a similarly diverse range of styles and origins. ‘True, it has no acidity, no sweetness and no alcohol, but it compensates in terms of tannins, texture and flavour 72 | Decanter | January 2026

profile,’ says Quintavalle. Added to that, you can play around with the brewing technique: ‘Each tea has its own temperature and timing.’

There’s a theatre to it, too, if brewed at the table, akin to decanting. While Ikoyi brews tableside and serves in traditional pottery, at Michelin two-star The Clove Club they brew in advance and serve teas at room temperature in elegant bottles. ‘We like the idea of teas served in wine glasses as it allows the non-drinkers to have a grown-up, elegant experience alongside wine drinkers,’ says chef Isaac McHale.

The terroir of tea

The other major plus is that teas often have a fascinating back story. ‘The fact that these leaves come from some of the most remote corners of the Earth, from artisanal growers and their “gardens”, really helps us tell a story on how terroir can have an impact on the end product,’ says Matthew Davison,

Fiona Beckett is a leading expert on food and drink matching, and a Decanter Contributing Editor. She is wine writer in residence at London’s The Pilgrm hotel, and publishes at matchingfoodandwine. com and on Substack Eat This, Drink That

FOOD & TEA MATCHING

Clockwise from left: Saicho Osmanthus Sparkling Tea with a seafood starter; Andrew Wong, chef at A Wong in Pimlico, London; at The Clove Club, wine and tea served in wine glasses; smoked jollof rice at Ikoyi restaurant

restaurant director of Michelin three-star Moor Hall in Lancashire, which also offers a tea pairing.

‘It’s just like wine – terroir and craft are every bit as important,’ agrees Henrietta Lovell of The Rare Tea Co. ‘You need really good tea to make a really good pairing.’

The most versatile style of tea is oolong, I’ve found, but green tea has its place, particularly with lighter fish- and vegetable-based dishes. ‘We like serving grassy green teas with fish, and floral white teas with dim sum,’ says Mickael Metayer, head sommelier at Michelin two-star A Wong in London.

‘Pu-er works best at the end of the meal with spicier dishes like our Wagyu beef with chilli.’

PHOTOGRAPHS JUTTA KLEE, THE CLOVE CLUB, IRINA BOERSMA

Tea beyond tea

There’s also a new generation of tea-derived drinks to explore. Sparkling teas, for example, are a convincing alternative to sparkling wine as an aperitif. One of the best is Saicho – I particularly like the nutty Hojicha (£17.99-£20/75cl Harrods, House of Clarity, Master of Malt, Not Another Bill, saichodrinks.com, The Whisky Exchange), which is brilliantly good with any dish rich in umami.

The other popular ready-to-drink option is kombucha, a fermented beverage made with tea, sugar, bacteria and yeast, which bears more than a passing resemblance to natural wine. ‘Kombuchas work well to replace the acidity often missing when forgoing wine, although we are careful to work with producers, like Ama Brewery, who ferment at low temperatures over a longer period of time to prevent the spike in acetic acid that is common among many shop-bought kombuchas,’ says Honey Spencer, co-owner and sommelier at east London restaurant Sune and author of Natural Wine, No Drama.

Five winning tea and tea-derived pairings Roast chicken with toasted hay mayonnaise and horn of plenty mushrooms with Master Xu’s Rou Gui from Wuyishan, China This richly toasty roasted yancha (rock tea) Oolong chimes perfectly with this umami bomb of a dish, served at The Clove Club. Shui Lian Dong, £17.95/20g Postcard Teas Roast Peking duck with Saicho Osmanthus sparkling tea The rich duck brings out the tea’s fruity apricot notes, the bright acidity cuts through the richness of the meat and the sweet hoisin sauce enhances the tea’s creamy texture, says Charlie WinkworthSmith of Saicho. £22/75cl Harrods, saichodrinks.com

Aged beef tartare with a 1998 vintage oolong The oolong mimics the smoky flavours running through this Moor Hall dish really nicely, without overpowering, nor getting lost in the other flavours. Mr Jian’s Shan Lin Xi, £252/100g Lalani

Smoked jollof rice with Pu-er This spicy, smoky dish is of West African origin but is elevated at Ikoyi by a lobster custard (pictured).

It’s served with an earthy 8582 raw Pu-er tea from Yunnan, China. ikoyilondon.com

Mussels, salsify and pickled chanterelles with kombucha At Sune, Honey Spencer likes to pair cured and pickled vegetables, and fish such as boquerones (unsalted anchovies), with kombucha. @restotosune

As more and more of us focus on moderating our alcohol intake, particularly at this time of year, tea provides a satisfying alternative to wine as a taste experience, certainly much more so than many noor low-alcohol wines.

Decanter | January 2026 | 73

The world’s best wine spas

Beautiful vineyard scenery, top-quality wines on hand and the ultimate in relaxation and pamper-treatment – what could be better for the weary wine lover? These six wine spa venues on three continents can go to the top of your bucket list STORY ALICIA MILLER

74 | Decanter | January 2026

W

hy do we drink wine? Put the more esoteric arguments aside and the reason is simple: it makes us feel good. It does us good, too. Besides helping us to relax and unwind, boosting our mood and providing connection with others, wine has frequently been shown to have a positive antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect.

Vinotherapy, the marriage between wine and spa, takes the idea of wine as cure to an entirely new level. By utilising the byproducts of the winemaking process – grape skins, pips, leaves, must and even sap from pruned vines – in

treatments, it aims to heighten wellbeing in a natural way. Efficacy claims stem from the idea that wine grapes, which are rich in polyphenol resveratrol (see box, p78), can be used to provide intense moisturisation, a natural and waste-free exfoliant and anti-ageing benefits.

As a concept, vinotherapy is nothing new – historical records do show that some people, back through the Middle Ages to Roman times, would use wine, mixed with herbs and other flavourings, as part of their hygiene rituals. Prominent French beauty brand Caudalie has, almost since its inception by Mathilde and Bertrand Thomas in the 1990s, run wine-themed spas at the likes of

The villas and main lodge at Gibbston Valley in Central Otago, New Zealand (see p78)

Decanter | January 2026 | 75

TOP WINE SPAS Frank Gehry-designed Marqués de Riscal in Rioja, northern Spain, and its flagship Les Sources de Caudalie in Bordeaux’s Pessac-Léognan region.

Today’s vinotherapy is taking on a fresh shape, with a distinct shift from showmanship to science.

Modern practice is increasingly sophisticated and nuanced, with new boutique brands and techie spas focused on the chemical potential of high levels of grape polyphenols to transform skin – in addition to theatrical soaks in barrel-style tubs.

When you pair a relaxing treatment with a stay overnight snuggled among vines, along with a curated local wine list of special bottles, as you will do in the properties featured on the following pages, then you can’t help but feel good. Which, of course, is exactly the point.

South Lodge Sussex, UK

exclusive.co.uk/south-lodge Set among the rolling vineyards of Sussex, this plush country house hotel is positioning itself as the British leader in vinotherapy, via a partnership with sustainable Kent skincare brand Pelegrims, which creates products derived from leftover grape material from Westwell winery near Ashford, and Ridgeview Estate nearby in Sussex. Onsite southfacing rows of Chardonnay, Meunier and Pinot Noir – which will ultimately appear in an own-brand fizz crafted by Ridgeview’s winemaker Simon Roberts – are visited by Pelegrims’ founders Jérôme Moisan and Alex Verier periodically throughout the year in order to harvest sap, grapeskins and leaves for extract to go into bespoke products, for use in the multi-storey South Lodge spa.

As for that spa: with a switched-on local clientele, glut of daily exercise classes, healthy onsite restaurant and multiple pools, the 4,000m2 space feels like a social meeting space and hub of wellbeing, where treatments focus on delivering results as much as pampering. Arrive early for a swim in the mirror-like indoor pool, fronted by a row of sweeping windows overlooking Sussex greenery and an outdoor hydrotherapy area. Move on to a Pelegrims treatment and a snooze in the relaxation room’s illuminated pods, then check into your hotel suite – preferably one of the spa-style, two-storey lakeside lodges, known as The Reeds.

Here you can carry on the feelgood theme with a guided wild swimming session. Or, just a chilled bottle of local Sussex sparkling, uncorked on your private terrace overlooking the water.

Must-try treatment Fresh Leaf Fusion Face & Body Treatment, featuring a grape leaf body mask and poultice massage, followed by a bio-cellulose sheet mask infused with grapevine compounds.

Must-drink Any one of the impressive collection of Ridgeview wines available in Michelin one-star The Pass restaurant.

76 | Decanter | January 2026

BardessonoHotel & Spa Napa Valley, USA

bardessono.com With its Michelin-lauded and -starred restaurants, plush vineyard hotels and bucket-list producers, Napa Valley is arguably the wine world’s capital of luxury pampering. Bardessono, in storybook-pretty central Yountville, adds another element to the hedonistic feel with its spa-led ethos, where R&R is put on the same pedestal as a sublime vintage.

Herbs and other plants from the hotel’s own organic garden are worked into the onsite B Spa’s forward-thinking treatments – which range from Korean beauty-inspired facials with a salmon DNA derivative to healing CBD treatments. But the real local flavour comes in with the addition of local grapes. A Vino Polish, for example, pairs crushed Napa grape seeds with sea salt and lavender to slough off dead skin cells and leave skin feeling fresh as a newborn’s. Day guests can unwind by the poolside post-treatment, but for the full experience,

Alicia Miller is a widely published and awarded writer focusing on food, drink, travel and wellness. A former editor at The Sunday Times, she is a regular contributor to titles including The Independent, Woman & Home, National Geographic Traveller and many others

Clockwise from above: South Lodge at Crabtree in Sussex, UK; Château de Germigney in Jura, France; the Château de Germigney wine cellar; relaxing in the outdoor jacuzzi at Château de Germigney; (below) sound healing therapy at Bardessono in Napa Valley; Bardessono’s tranquil walkways; South Lodge’s vine leaf and herbal infusion poultice massage

book into the hotel’s comfy and stylish spa suites.

Shy guests can indulge in treatments in-room – with a glass of something delicious in hand, if desired.

Must-try treatment The Vino Polish, which includes a grapeseed body butter massage – the ultimate skin hydrator.

Must-drink Obviously, it has to be Cabernet Sauvignon. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars is minutes away, so pop there for a tasting if you’ve exhausted the Bardessono restaurant list.

Château de Germigney Jura, France

chateaudegermigney.com The original big name in modern vinotherapy, French brand Caudalie opened its first spa in 1999 in Bordeaux, on the Château Smith Haut Lafitte family estate. A quarter of a century later, it has its name on 35 hybrid spa-boutiques and four expansive vinotherapy spas, including this one in Port-Lesney in eastern France. Housed in a romantic 18thcentury château hotel where outdoor dining terraces are shaded by towering trees and rooms are outfitted with floral motifs, chandeliers and statement mirrors, this branch of the spa brand is a timeless celebration of Jura. Slatted wood, evoking wine Decanter | January 2026 | 77

TOP WINE SPAS barrels, lines the sauna exterior, while a stonetrimmed pool area mirrors local limestone soils.

Soak in the outdoor jacuzzi, unwind in a purifying salt room or indulge in one of the Caudalie signature ‘rituals’, which combine multiple treatments into a half or full day of wine-themed pampering.

Must-try treatment The Winemaker’s Massage, which combines Caudalie hero products with treading and pressing motions – said to drain fluids and toxins from the body and activate circulation.

Must-drink Anything you fancy off the extensive vin jaune list, which includes vintages dating back to the 1950s.

Loisium Langenlois

PHOTOGRAPHS ANGELA WARD BROWN, SHOOT360.CO.UK YVAN MOREAU, CHATEAU DE GERMIGNEY (3), MISCHA NAWRATA, WERNER STREITFELDER

Kamptal, Austria

loisium.com Clad in luminous green tiles that evoke the verdant hue of the vineyards just outside, the spa at Loisium Langenlois has a simple aesthetic that belies the sublime potency of its treatments. Wine grapes make an appearance in rituals that range from head to toe, with boutique Burgundian beauty brand Vinésime employed in facials to turn back the clock.

(According to the brand, Pinot Noir has five times the antioxidants of green tea – something to consider when choosing your drink at breakfast.)

When you aren’t busy on the massage table, lounging in the steamy sauna or making use of the compact workout room, you can be immersing yourself in a vinous experience of another kind on a tour of the 900-year-old onsite cellar. Crowned with a dramatic contemporary building designed by architect Steven Holl, it’s one of several hotel delights here that also include a heated outdoor pool fringed with vines and the minimalist, light-flooded rooms dressed in white and wood.

Must-try treatment The Vine Strength facial, which employs the flagship A20C complex from Vinésime to exfoliate, restore and strengthen the skin barrier.

Must-drink Sign up for a Kamptal Icons wine tasting in the WeinWelt cellar, and sample a range of local Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings.

L’AND

Alentejo, Portugal

l-and.com Architecturally ambitious and unashamedly modern, L’AND – a resort and vineyard in the Evora subregion of diverse Alentejo – is the kind of pin-up stay that you find gracing the cover of Wallpaper* or Architectural Digest. But there’s substance with the style here, too, particularly given techie and sustainable Austrian vinotherapy brand Vinoble is leading treatments within the vast, standalone spa.

It’s a space that instantly sets the pulse to ‘unwind’: lined with glass and filled with minimalist 78 | Decanter | January 2026

‘Vinotherapy takes the idea of wine as cure to an entirely new level’ wood and stone, evoking the natural textural contrasts of the vineyard. Undertake a musclemelting massage to unclench shoulders or an intensive facial peel to rehydrate the complexion.

Follow up with a soak in a hydrotherapy bath with red grape oil, poaching away until you reach a heightened state of tranquillity.

Must-try treatment Vinoble body peel with grape seeds, paired with a full-body massage.

Must-drink Whichever blend you’ve made yourself.

L’AND’s Make Your Own Wine experience, featuring Alicante, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Syrah in the onsite winery, is the other essential thing to experience here, besides the spa.

Gibbston Valley Gibbston, New Zealand

gibbstonvalleylodgeandspa.com This Central Otago wine producer deals in superlatives, being both one of the oldest producers in the region and home to the largest wine cave in New Zealand, which doubles as the cellar door. And among its rows of Pinot Noir, Riesling and other varieties, which are backdropped by verdant slopes, it also majors in the visitor experience. Winery tours, a restaurant, a cheesery, a deli and two dozen secluded, vine-facing villas are all found onsite.

Adding to all of that is the award-winning spa, a space that pairs classic pampering with wine-based flair to give you a taste of Gibbston as you enjoy a much-deserved unwind. TheraVine vinotherapy products are packed with antioxidant polyphenols derived from grape leaves, seeds and vine shoots, and used in tailored facials or skin-firming gel wraps that leave bodies feeling refreshed and deeply moisturised. After your session with the therapist you’ll get a glass of Gibbston Valley fizz to sip in the relaxation room – the perfect precursor to sampling the onsite winery’s full range later in the evening.

Over a dinner of confit duck leg or pork belly in the restaurant, work your way through Pinot Noir vintages dating back to 2005, as well as a selection of organic single-vineyard bottlings.

Must-try treatment Deluxe Anti-Ageing Facial, featuring TheraVine products to smooth and moisturise skin.

Must-drink Gibbston’s Reserve Pinot Noir, made only in exceptional years and in small quantities.

Vinotherapy essentials

Resveratrol The natural polyphenol found in high concentration in grapes Viniferine Natural compound in grapevine sap that can correct skin hyperpigmentation Grape seed oil Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, often used in massage Grape seed scrub Exfoliates and restores skin, with anti-ageing properties

Clockwise from above: L’AND in Alentejo, Portugal; getting a facial treatment at Loisium Langenlois, Kamptal, Austria; vine view from the terrace restaurant at Loisium Langenlois; facial at Gibbston Valley; treatments at Gibbston Valley come with a glass of bubbly; (below) Gibbston Valley lodge; private pool, L’AND; fire pit on the lake, L’AND

Decanter | January 2026 | 79

Wine wisdom

Our regular learning section helps you get more from your glass ASK DECANTER

Each month our experts answer your burning wine questions. Email your queries to editor@decanter.com

Sicily travel advice

I’m planning to holiday in Etna this spring. Can you recommend two or three wine estates that offer great wines and a great visitor experience?

Kevin Gardner James Button, Decanter’s Regional Editor for Italy, replies: Etna is a great destination for a wine break, with its dramatic scenery and dynamic wine scene.

The region is bristling with wineries, each with its own vibe and style of winemaking.

Ciro Biondi (ibiondi.com; Via Ronzini, 55a, 95039 Trecastagni) on Etna’s southeast side is a great place to start. This small-scale cult producer is less than an hour’s drive from Catania airport. Enjoy a tasting of the fine, almost Burgundian wines made from grapes grown on the slopes of extinct craters, poured by the incredibly friendly and welcoming Ciro and Stephanie Biondi, with some cheeses and bread served alongside, accompanied by their own olive oil. Pietradolce (pietradolce.com; Contrada Rampante, 95012 Solicchiata, Castiglione di Sicilia) produces some of Etna’s top wines and is a must-visit, if only for the stunning beauty of the pre-phylloxera Rampante and Barbagalli vineyards on the north side of the volcano. The spacious modern underground cellars feature several art installations, and the large first-floor tasting room is fronted by a panoramic glass window that overlooks the younger vines surrounding the property.

Palmento Costanzo (palmentocostanzo. com; Contrada Santo Spirito, 95012 Passopisciaro, Castiglione di Sicilia) is a great destination if you want to soak in the details of a restored palmento (traditional stone winery), which used to number in the hundreds across Etna. This one now operates as the estate’s modern cellar facility, complete with bespoke stainless 80 | Decanter | January 2026

The winery at Palmento Costanzo includes a restored traditional 18th-century palmento

steel tanks and egg-shaped oak barrels.

The terraced pre-phylloxera vineyards are full of gnarled vines that can be admired from the onsite tasting room, or while enjoying the delicious locally sourced food available as part of a tasting package – offering a relaxing environment to enjoy the estate’s wines. Some other notable wineries to consider include: Barone di Villagrande, Benanti, Cottanera, Generazione Alessandro, I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna, Maugeri, Terra Costantino and Tornatore.

Cellaring Chablis

How does Chablis evolve with age, and what do you think is the optimum age at which to open a premier cru wine?

Sandra Brooke

Charles Curtis MW, Decanter’s Burgundy correspondent, replies: Chablis is among the most ageable white wines around because its high acidity can preserve it for years – or even decades – in the cellar. As it matures, top Chablis will develop aromas of hazelnut, beeswax and honey; with even more time, notes of truffle and smoke will begin to emerge, all while retaining its characteristic salty, oyster shell character. The acidity will soften and the texture will gain in breadth and richness. Premier cru Chablis is typically at its best after 10 years of age. During my visit this autumn, I greatly enjoyed a number of bottles from the landmark 2014 vintage. The oldest from this recent trip was from 1992, still fresh and lively after more than 30 years.

KNOW YOUR VINTAGES

Brunello di Montalcino

by Michaela Morris

LAY DOWN

2016 The warm season was punctuated by timely showers and pronounced diurnal temperature swings. Thrillingly statuesque, with intricate details, these firm, classically structured Brunellos could do with more time to reveal their profound depths.

OPEN NOW

2020 While the summer was marked by a couple of intense heatwaves, graciously weighted wines demonstrate remarkable freshness. Expressive aromas and supple tannins make them immediately tempting, but they should delight for years to come.

DRINK UP

2014 Despite relentless rainfall and cool temperatures, this challenging year yielded elegant, fragrant surprises. Nevertheless, their finer frames have reached ageing capacity.

CELLAR CHEAT SHEET

Try now 2018, 2017, 2015, 2012, 2008 Keep holding 2021, 2019, 2010, 2013, 2006

WINE & WELLNESS

by Wendy Narby

The water myth & zebra striping

There’s no magic way to reduce blood alcohol content. Drinking water doesn’t dilute alcohol that’s already in your bloodstream – your kidneys will only allow so much water into your system – but alternating wine with water or other non-alcoholic drinks (‘zebra striping’) does tend to slow down the speed at which you imbibe alcohol. Alcohol is a diuretic and drinking water also helps prevent dehydration. Be careful with zebra striping, however: water is great, sugary ‘no & lo’ cocktails not so much, as sugar adds strain to the liver and dehydrates further.

SMART BUYER’S GUIDE TO…

Alsace Riesling

by Panos Kakaviatos

Stop calling it sweet – and trust the label Let’s end the myth: Alsace Riesling is dry; legally dry, in fact. For many years, serious producers would include dry indications on back labels, but thanks to a 2021 decree, any Riesling that isn’t late harvest (so not vendanges tardives or sélection de grains nobles) must convey crispness, citrus bite and structure – not sugar.

It’s not German Yes, the bottles are long and slim, and most of the vineyard names – Altenberg de Bergbieten, Pfersigberg, WineckSchlossberg – reflect signature Germanic snap and crunch, but Alsace is in northeast France. Stylistically, its Rieslings tend to feel a touch richer and sunnier than their German counterparts. That said, recent years show both sides of the Rhine leaning strongly toward bone-dry precision. Think sunshine with definition.

Vintage to love: 2019 Vintners at this year’s post-harvest party in November called 2019 a standout: ripe fruit,

etched acidity and serious ageing potential – a vintage with both charm and spine.

Pairing & ageing Alsace Riesling is a food chameleon.

Sommeliers adore it because it works with almost everything – oysters, sushi, tarte flambée, Thai takeaway, roast chicken (honestly, one of the best pairings). The magic only deepens with time, as the acidity keeps things bright while the wine gains in complexity. If you can swing it,

buy a full case: six for the next few years and six to forget about until your future self thanks you 15 years later.

Two estates & names to seek out Domaine Wach, Andlau Try the Wiebelsberg Grand Cru 2020: elegant, saline, opulent, unforgettable.

Valentin Zusslin, Orschwihr Try the Pfingstberg Grand Cru Riesling 2019 (£66.90 Millésima): bracing acidity, juicy mid-palate, subtle wet-stone aromatics.

Decanter | January 2026 | 81

MEET THE SOMMELIER

Reeze Choi

First memorable wine experience It has to be my first ever sip of wine, 16 years ago, while I was working in an Italian restaurant in Hong Kong. The wine was La Spinetta’s Moscato d’Asti, and the experience opened the door to the world of wine for me. I believe that, if it hadn’t been a fruity, fizzy, easy, sweet white wine, I wouldn’t be interested in wine today. It taught me to respect every palate, and to treasure every pour – we never know which pour is going to change someone’s life.

My go-to everyday wines I don’t drink alcohol every day, so it’s hard for me to say. If I had to choose an everyday, go-to alcoholic drink, it would perhaps be the Japanese beer Kirin. If it has to be a wine, I’d go for sparkling wine – a Champagne such as Charles Heidsieck, Louis Roederer or Bollinger, or an English sparkling wine such as Gusbourne, Nyetimber or Black Chalk (a new discovery). German and Austrian Sekt, such as Raumland or Loimer, and Corpinnat such as Recaredo and Gramona are also good. I’m sounding greedy now…

Favourite supermarket buy This question, I think, implies a stereotype about supermarket wine – a low-priced, commercial, bulk-production wine. One of my clients is a supermarket chain, Yata. I select wine for them to sell in their stores. I try to include some unique and interesting wines. I am happy and excited to have Domaine de la Touraize, Les 82 | Decanter | January 2026

PHOTOGRAPH ASI AND ANDY KHO

Hong Kong-based Chinese sommelier Reeze Choi is the founder of Somm’s Philosophy, a sommelier services and wine consultancy company. A Court of Master Sommeliers Advanced Sommelier and WSET educator, he was crowned 2025 Best Sommelier of Asia and Pacific, came third in the 2023 Best Sommelier of the World contest and has won the Best Sommelier Greater China contest many times. In 2023, he began a winemaking project in Hiroshima, Japan, with Vinoble Vineyard & Winery. He’s the wine consultant for Hong Kong retail company Yata, and is a brand ambassador for Star Wine List, Saicho Sparkling Tea and Vivant temperature control devices.

Voisines, Arbois 2020 [a Chardonnay from Jura] on the shelf. I buy this wine from Yata if I need to quickly grab something. I think supermarkets should cater for different customer needs, but should also be a place to explore new things. If I had to pick a favourite ‘classic’ supermarket wine, it would be the entry-level wines from Gérard Bertrand, Susana Balbo, Robert Mondavi and Montes.

Most embarrassing moment at work When I was a junior sommelier, I pushed a cork into a double magnum of Château Pichon Baron 2001 with an ah-so wine opener in front of an important guest. That’s why I’m so glad the Durand was invented.

Death row food and wine order I don’t usually eat dessert – not because I don’t like sweetness, but because I care about my health and fitness a lot. But if I’m about to die, then screw it – let’s do a classic tiramisu paired with Marco De Bartoli, Marsala Superiore Oro Riserva 1988 (my birth year).

‘We never know which pour is going to change someone’s life’ Best food and wine match I’ve worked with While working for a Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong a few years ago, we welcomed Etienne de Montille for a special wine lunch. I suggested pairing the Domaine de Montille, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts Christiane 2006 with one of our signature dishes: slow-cooked pigeon smoked with jasmine tea leaves. The juiciness and Gamay flavour of the duck matched perfectly with the fruitiness of the wine. The dish’s smokiness danced a tango with the wine’s woody spices. I still recall that pairing, even after all these years.

My fallback quick after-work meal There are so many! Sometimes, a mature Mont d’Or (a seasonal runny cow cheese

WINE WISDOM

Wines I would avoid ordering from a restaurant list I would avoid ordering a wine that would take me a few months to clear from my credit card debt.

wine style I didn’t like

DON’T PAY SILLY MONEY

Drink whatever I want, any time I want

DRINK MORE ORGANIC WINE

Try one new wine per week

Drink more Italian reds

The wine on my list that never fails to surprise guests Vin jaune. The uniqueness of the wine style always surprises my customers in both good and bad ways.

What’s your wine resolution for 2026?

Order basic wine in restaurants, and enjoy better Revisit a wine with friends at home

Work on considerably reducing my cellar

Wine I’m most proud of on my list It has to be the wine produced by Takashi Yokomachi and myself, Project 933, Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2023 from Miyoshi, Hiroshima.

WE ASKED YOU ON SOCIAL

BE MORE ADVENTUROUS

from Jura), a warm baguette and a glass of Jura Chardonnay or vin jaune. Or a golden combo of Japanese cuisine – ramen, gyoza – and beer. Sometimes even a cheeseburger and a simple Beaujolais or Korean-style fried chicken with Champagne.

Wine region I’m most excited about at the moment Asia! I am an Asian and I produce wine in Japan. I feel really proud to see what we are producing now. It isn’t yet the best in the world, but in the past 10 years, we have definitely made huge improvements. To name just a few exciting wine styles, we have Chinese Marselan and ice wine, and Japanese Merlot and Pinot Noir.

Wine style I don’t enjoy drinking Some of the unprofessional, funky, faulty wine marketed as ‘natural wine’. Not only do I not enjoy it, but I also think it is an ​ insult to the low-intervention producers who make professional, clean wine.

Best value wine region to drink I recently organised a wine dinner for a private client. My mission was to select wines from different European countries priced at around US$150-$200 per bottle.

I realised that it is very hard to find an Austrian wine whose price reaches that level. Not even the best-known, top-quality Austrian wine costs that much.

My favourite wine region to visit Alsace. From time to time, I remember the Christmas market in Strasbourg – the chilly weather, the bustling market, the smell of cinnamon and mulled wine. The region has a unique culture, friendly people and delicious wines. I miss it.

ME & MY CELLAR

Name & location Minette Corpuz, Houston, Texas, USA Approximate number of bottles 3,000 How long has it taken you to build your cellar? 15 years Have too much You can never have enough. However, I do have quite a bit of Burgundy Don’t have enough Grower Champagne Oldest bottle 1865 Château Gruaud Larose, St-Julien Greatest under-the-radar discovery I was introduced to Bernard-Bonin and Lamy-Caillat in Burgundy prior to their popularity and secured quite a few bottles at very low prices Looking forward to opening 1939 Château Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion

Past its best Burgundy, 1971 André Cathiard/Cathiard-Molinier – I haven’t had much luck with Cathiard wines from before the 1990s Bottle with the greatest story My 1865 Gruaud Larose was part of a shipwreck found off the coast of the Philippines. Initially I had six bottles and took delivery of them in France in 2018. As I was in Burgundy for the Becky Wasserman and Jasper Morris symposia, I opened one – what better company to open a rare bottle in than these amazing wine professionals? Surprisingly, there was still some fruit, albeit dried fruit.

The one bottle I would save 1865 Gruaud Larose. As I’ve already tasted it, I would preserve the only bottle I have left, for the history and also the sentimental value of having first tasted it with Becky.

Decanter | January 2026 | 83

WINE WISDOM

Campania

Feudi di San Gregorio’s Dal Re vineyard in Campania’s Taurasi DOCG is one of the most extraordinary sites for wine lovers in Italy. I visited in autumn this year and was struck by the gravitas of this vineyard from another era. I shared a picnic and a bottle of Serpico 2016 (£53-£55 Hic, Shelved Wine, Wine Poole) – which is made using grapes from Dal Re – with some fellow writers in the middle of the vineyard, drinking the spicy, muscular wine from these pre-phylloxera Aglianico vines with focaccia, salami and local olive oil as the autumn sun broke through the canopy of vines.

These vite maritata (‘married vines’) are trained up trees and poles in the style of the Etruscans, echoing the plant’s natural behaviour in the wild.

Some are thought to be close to 180 years old, meaning they went into the

ground in the mid-19th century, before Italy existed as a nation.

I followed the vines as they wrapped themselves around tree trunks and corkscrewed their way along branches, meeting up with each other above my head, like living sculptures. I walked the vineyard freely, drifting through the vines as you might move through an exhibition, but without the tensioned wires of a modern trellised vineyard in your way.

Dal Re is one of only a handful of such sites that have survived in Campania, preserved at the insistence of Feudi di San Gregorio’s owner Antonio Capaldo. He has also recently partnered with the Archaeological Park of Pompeii to produce wine again from the vineyards within the ruins of the ancient city. It’s a reminder of how deeply wine and history are entangled in Italy’s south.

Next month in On sale 4 February

Jason Millar

Wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator with a focus on Italy and South Africa

SPANISH

WINE SPECIAL • The areas to know, next to more famous neighbouring regions • Navarra top picks • Rías Baixas • Fuerteventura travel TASTED & RATED

Priorat 2021 vs 2022 Viura/Macabeo PLUS...

• Regional profile: Yamanashi, Japan • Vintage preview: Northern & southern Rhône 2024 • Head to head: Sonoma vs Oregon Pinot Noir For subscription offers, visit magazinesdirect.com/XDC/DN22V 84 | Decanter | January 2026

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BUYING GUIDE

Expert recommendations and essential reading

THE

This month’s tastings

GUARANTEE See page 100

88 Panel tasting: Cool-climate Australian Chardonnay 80 wines tasted A highly successful tour of Australia’s cooler regions | 94 Panel tasting: Southeastern Europe’s indigenous reds 128 wines tasted Unfamiliar grapes and an eclectic lineup, with 12 rated Outstanding | 102 Expert’s choice: Lisboa Ines Salpico provides a taste of this Portuguese coastal region | 106 Weekday & weekend wines Our tasting team’s top picks: 25 anytime drinkers up to £30 and seven treats at £30-£60 | 110 DWWA 2025 highlights Shiraz story Australia’s signature styles Want more? Decanter.com/premium has full notes for panel tastings, plus exclusive tasting reports, scores and notes for far more wines than we can fit into the magazine

Decanter | January 2026 | 87

TASTED BLIND

Cool-climate Australian Chardonnay Terroir shone through in a highly successful tour of Australia’s cooler regions REPORT ALEX HUNT MW

I

t has been said that Chardonnay represents one of the clearest and most precise lenses through which we can view terroir, and this impressive tasting offered ample evidence to support that assertion. The affinity between Australia and Chardonnay is well established, of course, so expectations were high before this tasting. On the other hand, however, there have been times when this particular lens has proved to be ill-focused, with regional differences blurred either by too-obvious winemaking or by the terroir-masking fallacy of early picking.

Not so on this occasion, with all three of the judges discovering commendably distinct regional expressions. Beth Pearce MW commented that ‘more than ever, the wines seem to be showing a sense of place rather than simply reflecting the winemakers’ preferences for reduction and/or ripeness’.

This would be academic were the wines not delicious, but happily there was much to enjoy here on a hedonistic level, too. Roger Jones noted: ‘It was good to see high marks from across the regions,’ and the fact that 40% of entries scored 90 points or above demonstrates that our high expectations were borne out.

The most reliably excellent region was Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, with wines that combined beguiling texture with a zesty energy and an ability to age. Jones observed that wines from here ‘need a bit longer to evolve, but when they do, they certainly develop well, balancing perfume, gunflint as well as delicate ripe stone fruit’.

Meanwhile, Margaret River in Western Australia showcased its trademark blend of density, complexity and freshness, which Pearce found ‘very impressive, effortless in its power and quality, particularly in the 2023 vintage’.

At their best, Tasmania’s steely tension and the Burgundy-esque poise of the Yarra Valley in Victoria drew admiration from the panel, while the standout surprise was Geelong, another Victorian sub-region. Pearce praised its ‘confident balance’, and the entries from here showed that regardless of whether the wines are from a young or more mature vintage, Geelong offers a characteristic energy, grip and aromatic profile that combine to make these some of the country’s most thrilling expressions of the Chardonnay grape.

THE SCORES 80 wines tasted Exceptional 0 Outstanding 6 Highly recommended 26 Recommended 39 Commended 9 Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, 100% Chardonnay still wines produced in any of Australia’s cool-climate regions

ALEX HUNT MW is purchasing director at London-based merchant Berkmann Wine Cellars.

He became a Master of Wine in 2010, and was awarded the Bollinger Tasting Medal that year.

A seasoned wine judge, his writing has appeared in a number of prominent titles, including Decanter

ROGER JONES is the retired former owner of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant in Wiltshire. He is now a wine writer, judge (including for DWWA) and consultant with a particular interest in the hospitality trade, as well as helping charities

by Fiona Beckett

Chardonnay is such a blissful pairing for so many dishes that the only question is, how far do you push the boat out with the food? With the lovely acidity of these cool-climate wines, seafood would be my first port of call, especially for younger vintages – I’m particularly thinking in terms of grilled lobster, langoustines and seared scallops, or a luxurious fish pie. Chicken, of course, is another reliable go-to. A simply roasted bird with delicious, umami-rich, crisp skin would be heaven for older vintages, as would fried chicken (perhaps American-style rather than Korean), with a cream gravy – in fact, virtually anything creamy is spot-on with Chardonnay, especially when topped with pastry, as in a chicken pot pie. That might sound too homely, but simple is what to aim for with wines of this quality. There are also, of course, vegetables that are particularly Chardonnay-friendly, such as corn, butternut squash (especially with sage) and braised fennel; and mushrooms, too (especially in a risotto). In short, tomato- and red wine-based sauces aside, it’s pretty hard to go wrong.

88 | Decanter | January 2026

BETH PEARCE MW is the recently appointed head of buying at Flint Wines. Her extensive experience in the wine industry includes roles in retail and buying at Majestic and most recently buying director at Lay & Wheeler

PHOTOGRAPH ANTON CHERNOV/SHUTTERSTOCK

WHAT TO EAT

THE JUDGES

PANEL TASTING: COOL-CLIMATE AUSTRALIAN CHARDONNAY

Outstanding 95-97pts 96

96 Flametree, SRS, Wallcliffe, Margaret River, Western Australia 2023 Alex Hunt MW 95 Roger Jones 96 Beth Pearce MW 96

£40.50 (2022) NY Wines Flametree was established in 2007. Sourcing from select vineyards across Margaret River, they’re able to highlight local strengths through their flagship Sub-regional Series range. The Wallcliffe sub-region has a justifiable reputation for Chardonnay, and these grapes were whole-bunch pressed to French oak puncheons, fermented with wild yeast and aged on lees for 10 months with no malolactic or stirring.

Alex Hunt MW Lovely grilled-nut reduction with real palate weight to support that ‘treble’ note. Very satisfying, with an almost manzanilla-style umami feel.

Roger Jones Textured, silky.

Deep concentration of pureclass fruit. Still a bit ripe on the nose. Decant to enjoy layers of flavour. A hint of olive oil.

Beth Pearce MW Layered, with gunflint reduction, complex fruits, nuts, toast and smoke.

A chalky-textured palate that displays a noticeable tension throughout. Drink 2028-2044 Alcohol 12.9%

Giant Steps, Bastard Hill Vineyard, Gladysdale, Yarra Valley, Victoria 2024 £46-£61.35 Alexander Hadleigh, Cru, Farr Vintners, London End Wines, The Champagne Co

Jazz obsessive Phil Sexton moved to the Yarra Valley in search of a great site, planting the Sexton vineyard in 1997 and naming his winery Giant Steps after the seminal John Coltrane album. The Bastard Hill vineyard was planted earlier, in 1986, but made its Giant Steps debut in 2023. This second vintage was wholebunch pressed to 500L French

£ Value wine

£51.99-£68.75 All About Wine, Caviste, Hic, South Downs Cellars, The Artisan Food Co

Polymath Dr Ray Nadeson founded Lethbridge in 1996 and has set a high bar for Geelong ever since, showing mastery of both typical and more obscure varieties. This Chardonnay was handpicked from a 1981planted block within the historic Rebenberg vineyard, the site that helped to revive Geelong during the 1970s. The grapes were whole-bunch pressed directly into new 500L French oak puncheons before indigenous-yeast fermentation, natural malolactic fermentation

and then 11 months on lees before bottling.

AH Multi-layered, vigorous and comparatively youthful as it approaches a decade since the grapes were harvested.

Succulent core framed by electric acidity. Plenty of life left.

RJ Perfumed notes, layers of intensity and complexity. The fruit purity is immense. Hints of ginger lift this to a wonderful level. Pure class.

BP Evolved nose with saffron and ripe, orangey fruit.

Cleansing acidity, lift and freshness despite a lot of fruit evolution. Plenty of complexity, toasty notes adding interest.

Drink 2026-2036 Alc 14.5%

95

95 AH 95 RJ 95 BP 95

Lethbridge, Allegra, Geelong, Victoria 2016 AH 96 RJ 97 BP 95

oak puncheons (20% new) and aged for nine months.

AH Light, unassuming nose, but the palate packs a punch! Green apple flavour, but not tart or lean. Terrific focus and precision.

RJ Clean, linear. Great balance of minerality, stone fruit and fresh bright citrus zest. Layers of fresh, bright, tantalising fruit.

BP Ripe citrus with green hints.

Zippy palate with gentle weight and pure fruit. Lifted floral notes and a long, clean, steely finish.

Slight austerity that works here.

Drink 2026-2034 Alc 13.3%

Mulline, Portarlington, Geelong, Victoria 2024 £ AH 94 RJ 95 BP 95

£40 Pol Roger

A portmanteau of founders Ben Mullen and Ben Hine, Mulline has rapidly established a serious reputation since starting in Geelong in 2018. Mullen’s impressive CV, which includes stints at Domaine Dujac, Leeuwin Estate and Yarra Yering among others, has no doubt helped. From a coastal single vineyard that was planted in 1994 on sandy loam and dark clay over ironstone, this Chardonnay saw a natural ferment on full solids in French oak (20% new) followed by

eight months’ ageing in barrel.

AH Poised and complex, with a dusting of violet-scented icing sugar over quite Burgundian savoury/apple fruit. Plenty of interest and individuality.

RJ Multi-layered and fragrant, with vanilla custard, crème brûlée, toasted pine nuts, some herbaceous notes and clementine zest. Evolves beautifully in the glass. Class.

BP Toasted hazelnuts, brioche and pure apple. A creamy texture and toasty notes on the finish. Ripe stone fruit and citrus.

A warming, layered expression.

Drink 2027-2037 Alc 13%

Decanter | January 2026 | 89

95

95

Paringa Estate, The Paringa Single Vineyard, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2019

Xanadu, Reserve, Margaret River, Western Australia 2021

AH 95 RJ 96 BP 94

AH 95 RJ 96 BP 95

£48-£60.75 Corking Wines, Drinks Direct, Hallgarten Wines, London End Wines, Shelved Wine, Strictly Wine, The Fine Wine Co

Lindsay McCall is one of Mornington Peninsula’s original pioneers, establishing Paringa Estate on a former orchard in 1985. The winery’s output gradually grew in volume and reputation while he kept his day job as a geography teacher, before he went full-time in 1996. From volcanic soil in the cool-climate Red Hill subregion, this Chardonnay was whole-bunch pressed to French oak barriques (a mixture of new, second-use and third-use) for

fermentation and 11 months’ ageing, with monthly stirring.

AH Evolving in an interesting direction: lime cordial and toast, like a Semillon. Palate structure is broad but still bright. Could be a little divisive, like an old-school aged Burgundy.

Exciting and intriguing.

RJ Toasty, aromatic nose with a gentle perfume. Layers of texture and flavour. Pretty seamless, with a bright, clean saline finish. Beautiful.

BP Citrus, hazelnut and herbal edges with a hint of reduction.

Generous, juicy. Baking spice notes well integrated. A sense that it will keep improving.

Drink 2026-2036 Alc 13.5%

£55-£72 Corking Wines, Fintry

Wines, Hallgarten Wines, Must & Lees, The Fine Wine Co, Vinvm, Wine Poole, Wine Republic

Founded in 1977 close to the town of Margaret River, Xanadu’s holdings comprise three vineyard sites, of which the oldest, the Lagan Estate, is the source of its Reserve Chardonnay. Planted in 1981 on deep, free-draining gravelly loam, the region’s typical Gingin clone yields a mix of larger and smaller berries, which were whole-bunch pressed and fermented in 225L French oak barriques (28% new) with regular stirring but no

malolactic fermentation during the nine-month ageing period.

AH On the leaner side, given its weight and gravitas. Both grilled and fresh citrus notes dominate, with savoury nuttiness for complexity. Long on the finish, if not yet fully resolved.

RJ Textural, focused, layered.

Evolving well. Gently opens on the palate with great precision and quality fruit notes.

BP Delicate baking spices around a core of vibrant white peach and ripe apple fruit. The acidity is serious but well integrated, carrying the wine through to an impressive crescendo. Drink 2027-2043 Alc 13%

Highly recommended 90-94pts 94

93

93

Paringa Estate, Estate Series, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2024

Brinktop, Killara, Coal River Valley, Tasmania 2024

Cherubino, Karridale/Wilyabrup, Margaret River, Western Australia 2024

AH 93 RJ 94 BP 95

AH 94 RJ 95 BP 90

AH 92 RJ 94 BP 92

£33-£44 Corking Wines, Hallgarten Wines, Must & Lees, Shelved Wine, Strictly Wine, The Fine Wine Co, Vinvm, Wine Poole

Bright citrus, apple and white nectarine.

Rocky, savoury energy, generously pure fruit.

Leesy richness; vibrant, clean palate. Lingering freshness. Drink 2026-2037 Alc 13%

brinktop.au

£43 Hatch Mansfield

Savoury, leesy brightness, fresh confit lemon. Creamy vanilla richness, gentle reduction. Energetic core, steely tension and bright acidity. Mouthwatering citrus finish.

Drink 2026-2031 Alc 13%

Velvety and expressive. Peach-tinged citrus, floral and gentle herbal nuances.

Clean, bright stone fruit with subtle, creamy spice, toasty depth, roasted hazelnut.

Harmonious and long. Drink 2026-2034 Alc 13.5%

‘More than ever, the wines seem to be showing a sense of place’ Beth Pearce MW

90 | Decanter | January 2026

PANEL TASTING: COOL-CLIMATE AUSTRALIAN CHARDONNAY

93

93

92

Handpicked, Wombat Creek Vineyard, Gladysdale, Yarra Valley, Victoria 2024

Penfolds, Bin 144 Yattarna, Tumbarumba/ Adelaide Hills/Tasmania 2023

Brown Brothers, Patricia, Tasmania 2023

AH 94 RJ 94 BP 92

AH 90 RJ 95 BP 94

brownbrothers.com.au

handpickedwines.com.au

£95 (ib)-£135 Available via independent

Red apple, subtle cinnamon, grilled stone fruit and quince. Linear, with citrus zest.

Carried by steely, refreshing acidity and quietly assured poise. Drink 2026-2033 Alc 12.4%

merchants

92

Refined. Lemon, green apple, stone fruit and a delicate floral aroma. Elegant, well-judged oak. Steely precision and cool-climate freshness. Drink 2026-2040 Alc 12.5%

92

AH 92 RJ 91 BP 94 Focused, concentrated, with grilled-citrus reduction, bright peach, orange zest and oyster-shell minerality. Creamy yet refreshing palate with citrus and soft pineapple. Dense, zesty and saline-edged.

Drink 2026-2033 Alc 12%

92

Giant Steps, Tarraford Vineyard, Tarrawarra, Yarra Valley, Victoria 2024

Leura Park Estate, Block 1 Reserve Hand Picked, Oakdene, Liz’s, Bellarine Peninsula, Bellarine Peninsula, Geelong, Victoria 2024 Geelong, Victoria 2024

AH 91 RJ 93 BP 92

AH 92 RJ 93 BP 92

AH 91 RJ 92 BP 93

leuraparkestate.com.au

oakdene.com.au

Dynamic and spicy, with citrus, apple and tropical hints of quince and pineapple.

Bright, piercing acidity carries a generous, lightly creamy palate; savoury undertow and mineral lift. Fresh and characterful.

Drink 2026-2033 Alc 13%

Lemon, crunchy apple and stone fruit with lime-curd brightness. Energetic, nicely ripe.

Poised acidity and subtle leesy richness give gentle weight. Pure, approachable and concentrated, with a clean, quietly mineral finish. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13.3%

£35 (ib)-£59.55 Alexander Hadleigh, Cru, Farr Vintners, Liberty Wines

Fresh apple and zesty curd. Poised, bright, pure, with lifted fruit and a clean, layered texture. Mineral edges with lively acidity add energy. A gentle, refined and balanced finish. Drink 2026-2034 Alc 13.2%

92

91

91

Woodlands, Wilyabrup Valley, Margaret River, Western Australia 2023 £

Dalrymple Vineyards, Estate Vineyard, Coal River Valley, Tasmania 2024

Fraser Gallop, Parterre, Wilyabrup, Margaret River, Western Australia 2022 £

AH 92 RJ 94 BP 90

AH 90 RJ 92 BP 90

AH 91 RJ 92 BP 90

Wines, Islington Wine, Oakham Wines, Strictly

Zesty, clean-cut. Citrus and golden stone fruit lifted by bright, steely acidity. Subtle oak, a light, creamy texture and nectarine and peach notes. Finishes with oyster-shell freshness. Drink 2026-2036 Alc 13%

Bright citrus, green apple and fresh stone fruit with a touch of lemon curd and gentle florals. Dense, with a steely mineral line underpinning the lively acidity. Emerging complexity. Drink 2026-2033 Alc 12.5%

£21.85-£29 Bowers Salcombe, Corking Wine, Threshers, Vinvm, Vino Faversham

Distinctive, concentrated, with ripe citrus, tropical notes and toast. Generous fruit over leesy depth. Drink 2026-2040 Alc 12%

91

£38 John E Fells

91

£29.50 Corney & Barrow

91

Handpicked, Collection, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2024

Kooyong, Estate, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2024

Penfolds, Reserve Bin A, Adelaide Hills, South Australia 2024

AH 92 RJ 92 BP 90

AH 89 RJ 91 BP 92

£34.50 All About Wine, Strictly Wine, The Vine

AH 90 RJ 92 BP 90

handpickedwines.com.au

Lime zest and fresh stone fruit over a subtle lees backdrop. Steely, mineral drive and lively acidity. Poised texture hints at future depth and keeps the finish refreshing and neatly defined. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 12.9%

Whisperer, Vinvm, Winedirect

Pure white stone fruit, citrus lift and white florals wrapped in polished oak. Creamy texture meets steely minerality and gunflint.

Fresh acidity suggests further integration with time. Drink 2026-2036 Alc 12.5%

£ Value wine

Bright, restrained. Fresh citrus, gentle stone fruit and toast. Clean, layered texture with pithy edges. Long finish hints at further depth to come. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13%

£70 Goedhuis Waddeson

Decanter | January 2026 | 91

PANEL TASTING: COOL CLIMATE AUSTRALIAN CHARDONNAY

91

91

91

Prancing Horse Estate, The Classic Catherine Reserve, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2021

Sawyer, Adelaide Hills, South Australia 2023 £

Stonier, KBS Vineyard, Merricks, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2024

AH 90 RJ 90 BP 92

AH 92 RJ 93 BP 89

AH 88 RJ 93 BP 91

prancinghorseestate.com

£26 Australian Vintners

Golden apple and pear. Subtle savoury and herbal edges. Juicy fruit and firm acidity give grip and freshness. Gently complex, the evolving layers promise further balance and clarity to come. Drink 2026-2037 Alc 14%

Apricot and citrus, golden apple and a touch of lemon curd. The palate is creamy with a light, waxy feel. Straightforward, balanced and neatly focused, with a clean, purposeful finish. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13%

91 Ten Minutes by Tractor, 10X, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2024 AH 90 RJ 90 BP 92

£34 Bancroft Wines, Simply Good Wine,

‘It was good to see high marks from across the regions’ Roger Jones

Stone fruit, peach skin and light floral notes, gentle herbaceous edges and a hint of lime zest. Pure, linear palate with subtle minerality. Clean, pithy. Fresh, appetising finish. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13.5%

91 The Lane Vineyard, Heritage, Adelaide Hills, South Australia 2023 AH 92 RJ 93 BP 89

£43.95 Corney & Barrow Apricot, citrus and apple with a smoky gunflint edge. Creamy notes of light brioche add texture without heaviness. Balanced, with gentle complexity. The finish is neat and refreshing. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13.5%

The Wine Tasting Shop, Vinvm, Winedirect

Gentle stone fruit with bright lemon and a hint of tropical fruit. Juicy, fresh palate with hints of herbaceous complexity. Clean, balanced and fruit-forward with a long, focused finish. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13%

91

stonier.com.au

90

90

Wills Domain, Paladin Hill, Margaret River, Western Australia 2023

Port Phillip Estate, Morillon, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 2023

Santolin, Gladysdale, Yarra Valley, Victoria 2022

AH 89 RJ 92 BP 92

AH 90 RJ 90 BP 91

AH 88 RJ 90 BP 92

Bright citrus, stone fruit, toast and apple richness. Concentrated and pure, with fresh acidity and a saline edge. Balanced and composed. Weight and freshness to carry it further. Drink 2026-2038 Alc 12.9%

Bright citrus and clean, grilled pineapple lift, touched by gentle toast and gunflint. Fresh, vertical acidity keeps it tight and focused.

Pure, vibrant and steely, with a balanced, clean finish. Drink 2026-2031 Alc 13.5%

£46 Goedhuis Waddesdon

90

£42.95 Jeroboams

90

santolinwines.com.au

Citrus, apple and ripe stone fruit. A touch of spice and gentle vanilla. Smooth, creamy yet still fresh. Clean fruit with a pithy edge.

Finishing long and poised, showing further potential. Drink 2026-2033 Alc 13.8%

90

Vasse Felix, Margaret River, Western Australia Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown, Thorley, 2022 Beechworth, Victoria 2021

Wills Domain, Eightfold, Margaret River, Western Australia 2023 £

AH 89 RJ 90 BP 92

AH 88 RJ 89 BP 92

AH 87 RJ 91 BP 93

Piper, Harvey Nichols, Fortnum & Mason, Majestic

Shop, Thorne Wines

Bright, clean with citrus, apple and stone fruit. Tropical notes and roasted nuts. Fresh acidity, a smoothly balanced palate and a lively finish. Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13%

Smoky, complex. Rounded stone fruit, zesty citrus, spice and herbal notes. A creamychalky texture and a long, saline, evolving finish. Drink 2026-2036 Alc 12.5%

Smoky citrus, ripe stone fruit and a light, tropical lift. Clean, juicy palate. Creamy lime zest and a subtle saline edge. Balanced, layered and vibrant with a long, wellfocused finish. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13.2%

£30-£33 Australian Wines Online, Christopher

92 | Decanter | January 2026

£38.25-£42 Nekter Wines, The Good Wine

£24.50 Goedhuis Waddesdon

£ Value wine

TASTED BLIND

Southeastern European reds

From a breadth of origins, touching the Mediterranean, Adriatic and Black seas, and a plethora of less-familiar grapes and local styles, this tasting offered much to discover REPORT CAROLINE GILBY MW

W

ith 12 Outstanding wines across five countries, involving seven local grapes, this was a fascinating, diverse and high-scoring tasting. It also provided a strong signal that the whole region of 10 nations – under the broad umbrella of ‘southeastern Europe’ – is coming of age and offers lots of exciting options for adventurous wine drinkers.

The results gave a clear message that indigenous varieties, once written off as plodding workhorses, can deliver both global quality and wines with real personality and distinct differences that reflect each country.

It should give producers a boost, showing they can have real confidence in native varieties and don’t have to rely on adding Merlot or Cabernet.

Ana Jackson MW was impressed by the high quality across the board. ‘It was great to see the versatility of grapes and to see real freshness in

some of the Outstanding wines. And where there is oak, it’s good oak, unlike a few years ago,’ she said. ‘Teran was a highlight among the top-scoring wines, and the Kabola amphora wine (see p96) deserves a special mention. The Probus grape was a real discovery, too.’

Igor Luković agreed. ‘I was impressed with the consistency of the wines – fewer mistakes and the traditional, rustic, over-oaked styles are disappearing in favour of far more modern and precise winemaking,’ he said. ‘I expected Teran to shine, and it delivered. But I also admired Prokupac, and I think that Frankovka (or Blaufränkisch) has a great future in southeastern Europe and should be planted more widely.’

The judges agreed that the next challenge is how to promote these unfamiliar wines, though the results showed that this region is a treasure trove of exciting and delicious discoveries.

THE SCORES 128 wines tasted Exceptional 0 Outstanding 12 Highly recommended 30 Recommended 63 Commended 23

THE JUDGES

CAROLINE GILBY MW is an awarded author, speaker and consultant with a passion for the wines of the Balkans, Central and Eastern Europe and the Black Sea. She is DWWA joint Regional Chair across several categories

ANA JACKSON MW is head of wine business development for Amathus Drinks and was formerly head buyer at Oddbins for more than 12 years. She is keen to promote less-familiar wine categories and is a DWWA judge for the Southern & Eastern Mediterranean category

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release, still, dry red wines made from 100% indigenous grapes and/or traditional regional grapes, including blends, from specified countries in the southeast of Europe

by Fiona Beckett

The combination of what are likely be unfamiliar grape varieties with the unfamiliar cuisines of their home countries might sound daunting but could prompt some exciting experiments. Certainly there’s no lack of quality among these wines, particularly Croatia’s Teran, which is traditionally paired with wild boar, venison and other game, rich fatty meats and Paški sir, a salty sheep’s cheese from the island of Pag. So it should equally work with more familiar, slow-cooked Greek, Turkish and Lebanese meat dishes and salty Greek cheeses such as feta. Vranac should work with similar dishes, especially braises and stews, while Prokupac lends itself to roasts and grills, being a particularly good pairing, according to Serbian sommelier Vuk Vuletić, for the local ćevapi (skinless minced-meat sausages), served with an ajvar (red pepper) sauce. Emboldened by that touch of spice, I would be inclined to try Georgian and other Central Asian dishes, and even Indian roasted or grilled meats. These robust reds would pair well with foods cooked over coals.

94 | Decanter | January 2026

IGOR LUKOVIĆ is editor in chief at Vino & Fino magazine in Serbia. A wine writer, consultant, judge and events manager, he is a DWWA judge and president of The Balkans International Wine Competition jury

PHOTOGRAPH JUEFRATEAM/GETTY IMAGES

WHAT TO EAT

PANEL TASTING: SOUTHEASTERN EUROPEAN REDS

Outstanding 95-97pts 95

96 Bertoša, Berba Teran, Istria, Croatia 2021 Caroline Gilby MW 96 Ana Jackson MW 96 Igor Luković 95 bertosawines.com

A small family winery established in 2006, now run by the founder’s son Robi. Its 7ha are situated in the ‘grand cru’ area for Teran, on limestonerich white soil near the medieval hilltop town of Motovun. This historic grape, first mentioned in the 14th century, prefers sunny locations and this interpretation comes from a plot at 350m – above the fog zone that arises from the nearby Mirna river.

The wine has been matured in 1,000L French oak casks for 18 months.

Caroline Gilby MW Juicy blackberry and mulberry, hints of violet and vanilla. Intense, vibrant but quite linear. Good length and a refined finish. Juicy, vibrant and pure.

Ana Jackson MW Some herbaceous and black leather aromas. A floral, plummy, sour cherry palate, balanced oak, lovely harmony and nice evolution of fruit.

Igor Luković Oaky but classy, with good varietal character.

Youthful, juicy and vibrant, with nice structure with some spicy undertones on the persistent aftertaste. Drink 2026-2035 Alcohol 13%

Aleksić, Amanet Vranac, Vranje, Nišava, Serbia 2019 £ CG 95 AJ 95 IL 95

£22.50 Niko Preston When they founded Aleksić in 2006 in Vranje, southern Serbia, sisters Dragana, Maja and Marija paved the way for the revival of winemaking in the region. Their 60ha of vineyards open to the south, with the Mediterranean influence moderated by breezes and cool nights, thanks to an altitude of 350m-400m. Vranac, whose name means ‘black’, flourishes in Serbia’s south, and in this case it comes from 40-year-old, dry-farmed vines. Amanet means ‘legacy’ and it’s a selection of the best barrels,

aged for 15 months in Serbian oak – ‘power meets freshness’ is the sisters’ concept.

CG Sweet oak and dried cherry.

Polished and supple, with quite a chunky backbone of tannins and acidity. Very typical of the variety – does everything it should; nicely complete.

AJ Dense, concentrated nose, smoky, some maturity of fruit, leather and tobacco. Still some fruit concentration, harmonious.

IL Lively, fruity with nicely integrated oak. Nicely aged, with a touch of elegance, blackberries and red fruits.

Vibrant, long-lasting, precise.

Drink 2026-2032 Alc 14%

95

95

Clai, Baracija Refošk, Buje, Istria, Croatia 2022 £ Deklić, Teran, Vižinada, Istria, Croatia 2022 CG 95 AJ 94 IL 95

£21.59 (2021) Ripley Wines Founder Giorgio Clai was a restaurateur who inherited vineyards in northern Istria and discovered a passion for wine.

A pioneer of organic wine in the region, Clai has always pursued low yields from dense plantations. The winery’s 10ha are on flysch and white soil near the Slovenian border, cooled by salty breezes from the Adriatic, which is just 10km away. Clai’s motto is ‘nature in your glass’ and winemaking, now guided

by South African Tim Whitfield,

£ Value wine

is all about spontaneous fermentations and ageing for one year in large oak casks before bottling unfiltered.

CG Vibrant, bright bilberry and Morello cherry. Very pure, juicy and precise. Good tannins and length. Young; lots of promise.

AJ Sanguine, rich, bold, the palate ripe but with lifted freshness. Tannins are chalky.

IL Intensely fruity, with earthy complexity. Nice vibrancy and well-managed tannins. Lively, red and dark cherries, slightly spicy. A fresh, lingering finish.

Drink 2026-2036 Alc 13.5%

CG 95 AJ 95 IL 95 vina-deklic.com

Three generations of the Deklić family are rightly proud of their new winery in the highly regarded wine village of Vižinada. Their 25ha of vines grow on deep, rusty-red soils over limestone at 300m and are in conversion to organics. David Deklić is the oenologist and runs the winery today with siblings Dino and Lucija, while grandad Konstantin still tends the vines, having started aged nine. This 100% Teran is produced from low yields of about 35hl/ha,

spontaneous fermentation and 12-15 months in a mix of barriques and 500L casks.

CG Opaque. Liquorice, sloe and vanilla nose. Rich and full to taste, with cooked black fruit, grainy but big tannin backbone and harmonious acidity.

AJ Rich, dense nose: vanilla, evolving spiced fruit. Palate is full, with bold tannins, savoury herbs, mocha and black fruits.

IL Ripe fruits, a little jammy, dark chocolate and minty notes.

Nice structure. Juicy with sweet spices, ripe berries. Smoky finish.

Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13.5%

Decanter | January 2026 | 95

95

95 Đurđić, Probus, Fruška Gora, Srem, Serbia 2022

Enoist, III, Istria, Croatia 2022

CG 95 AJ 95 IL 95

CG 95 AJ 95 IL 95

djurdjic.rs

Not from a winemaking background, owner Dražen Đurđić brought a fresh approach when he took over from his father at this winery, which was founded in 2005 near Sremski Karlovci (where he’s also the town’s mayor). Vineyards now cover 15ha on the slopes of the Fruška Gora mountain, part close to the winery and part by the Danube at Matej, considered to be a ‘grand cru’ location. The focus is on local grapes such as Probus – a Serbian cross of Kadarka and Cabernet Sauvignon that produces dark, dense but juicy wines, here

refined by 18 months of ageing in barrique.

CG Black mulberry, bilberry, a hint of good-quality oak. Plush crushed black fruit, blackberry juice and more bilberry. Very typical and a nice example.

AJ Deep and bold, with rich blueberry fruit and floral aromas. Chalky tannins on a velvety palate, with violet notes and a long, fresh finish.

IL Cassis and mulberry, a toasty and spicy nose. Well structured, with a lot of fruity freshness.

Full and persistent. Finishes with sweet, juicy berry notes.

Drink 2026-2033 Alc 14.5%

95

enoist.com

This is one of the youngest wineries in Croatian Istria, founded in 2022 by two entrepreneurs from Zagreb.

They’ve created a new winery close to Vodnjan in southern Istria and have started to plant their own vineyards in the region, though their first wines were produced using purchased grapes. The concept is uncompromising high quality and they have put together a consulting team led by respected oenologist Milan Budinski to help them deliver their vision. 60% of this elegant Teran spent 10 months ageing

in a mixture of French and Croatian oak.

CG Serious, complex bouquet: vanilla, clove, violet and raspberry. Clean, with great varietal expression of Teran, polished tannins and a slatey mineral undertone. Very smart.

AJ Rich on the nose, with notes of vanilla oak and spice. Savoury development, but there are pure floral and blueberry notes and a persistent finish.

IL Roasted coffee and toast nose with ripe blueberries, plum and cherry lurking underneath.

The tannins are a touch rustic, but the wine is well balanced.

Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13.5%

95

Kabola, Amfora Teran, Momjan, Istria, Croatia 2020 Klet Krško, Turn Premium Modra Frankinja, finished with a further 12 Bizeljsko-Sremič, Posavje, Slovenia 2021 £25.99 months in oak.

CG 96 AJ 94 IL 94

Novel Wines

A stunning family winery that has featured as a major movie backdrop, Kabola bears the nickname of the owning family, which traces its winemaking history back to 1891. Today, the Markežić family grows 20ha of vines that have been certified organic since 2009. Kabola was one of Istria’s first modern wineries and has pioneered using amphorae imported from Georgia. This Teran comes from its best hilltop plot, known as Stancija, planted on white clay/ marl soils and cooled by Adriatic breezes. The wine is fermented and macerated with the skins until spring, then

96 | Decanter | January 2026

CG Complex nose, with bramble, black mulberry and thyme. Lovely, vivid berry fruit.

Incredibly juicy, backed up by great texture, wet stone notes and vibrant acidity.

AJ Vibrant, with sweet fruit and mocha. A ripe if rather baked palate, mid- to full-bodied, creamy but lively.

IL An intensely fruity nose.

Slightly warming alcohol, but this is juicy, with grippy tannins and retains nice freshness.

Drink 2026-2035 Alc 14.5%

CG 95 AJ 95 IL 95 klet-krsko.si

From a cooperative founded almost a century ago in eastern Slovenia, at the meeting point of the Dolenjska and BizeljskoSremič regions, with a sunny continental climate. It works with 200ha and 200 families, and Turn is its premium line from the best sites, launched in 2020 and named for the nearby 18th-century castle. The region’s most important grape is Modra Frankinja (aka Blaufränkisch), which is thought to have originated in Slovenia.

This bottling is a selection from a vineyard located at 400m on

weathered limestone bedrock, aged for 24 months in seconduse 1,000L French oak casks.

CG A dense, dark wine. Damson and sloe, cassis, oak and a slight earthy note. Bold and intense, with blackberry and mulberry, juicy acidity and firm tannins.

Very authentic.

AJ Mocha coffee richness on the nose, sour cherry and some maturity. Palate is herbaceous, with black fruit, minerality and some evolution.

IL Black peppery spice aromas, then come the cherries. Really typical for the variety. Vibrant and fresh with a spicy finish.

Drink 2026-2030 Alc 13%

PANEL TASTING: SOUTHEASTERN EUROPEAN REDS

95

95

Matalj, Bukovski Cuvée, Negotin, Serbia 2021 CG 96 AJ 93 IL 95

£25 Niko Preston

Owner Nikola Mladenović Matalj trained as a chemical engineer but turned to winemaking soon after graduation when he returned home jobless and wanted to do something that was close to the land. In Serbia’s far east, Negotin is historically renowned for wines so thick that they could be carried in a napkin. In 2007, Matalj set about finding out what people used to grow, reviving almost extinct varieties such as Bagrina and Začinak, 22% of which adds spice and colour to local Prokupac (75%) in this elegant blend, with

subtle aromatics from a little Kadarka, too.

CG Complex and spicy nose, dried summer berries, cranberry and tea leaf. Nice harmony and good length on the palate.

AJ Bright, sour cherry fruit.

While showing modest concentration this is pleasantly well made and enjoyable.

IL Dark and red berries, cherry and blackberry, and integrated oaky spiciness. Nice moderate structure, with a juicy freshness.

A long, spicy, fruit-driven finish.

Drink 2026-2036 Alc 12.5%

Plantaže, Stari Podrum Vranac, Podgorica, Montenegro 2018 CG 95 AJ 95 IL 94 plantaze.com

One of southeastern Europe’s largest producers, which also lays claim to Europe’s biggest single-location vineyard, at 2,300ha. It lies 30km from the Adriatic and close to lake Skadar, planted on chalky, pebbly, well-drained soils.

Vranac is by far the most important grape and Montenegro is its probable homeland. Stari Podrum (‘Old Cellar’) is a selection of the best fruit in great years, such as 2018, which produced ripe, fruity wines. It spends two years

95

95 SERVE, Terra Romana Fetească Neagră, Dealu Mare, Romania 2023 CG 95 AJ 95 IL 95 serve.ro

Société Euro-Roumaine des Vins d’Exception was the first private winery in Romania’s new era, beginning in 1994 when Corsican Count Guy de Poix fell in love with the country, his wife Mihaela and Fetească Neagră. He died in 2011, but his wife and daughter Silviana are continuing his vision. This will be one of the last wines made by Aurel Rotarescu, winemaker from the beginning, who sadly passed away in late 2025. SERVE helped recover the fortunes of Fetească Neagră, a flagship in

£ Value wine

in barrique and then a further year in large casks.

CG Dark and complex, with spicy roast coffee and black fruit. A big, bold flavourful wine, the tannins nicely tamed.

Traditional in a good way, with some very positive maturation.

AJ Deep, rich, oaky nose. The palate is rich, too, but with some good freshness on the finish.

A lot of oak but it’s in balance.

IL Leathery and fruity. A little straightforward, with plum and red fruits. Somewhat dry on the finish, but there’s nice vibrancy.

Drink 2026-2036 Alc 14.5%

its 68ha of vineyards in the Dealu Mare region.

CG Clean and inviting, with bramble, clove and smart oak.

Velvety, and a great varietal expression of cherry and violet, with fine-grained tannins. This has lots of potential.

AJ Plummy black fruit with cherry aromas. Youthful, with more plum and a touch of violet on the mid-palate. Persistent.

IL Juicy, with earthy varietal notes, blackthorn and a slightly herbal edge. Nice structure, with firm tannins and a fruity, spicy finish. Drink 2026-2033 Alc 14.5%

Tarpoš, Prokupac, Oplenac, Šumadija, Serbia 2023 CG 96 AJ 95 IL 95 tarpos.rs

A small winery and restaurant with 10ha of vines at up to 360m on a hillside that overlooks the mineral-spa town of Arandjelovac, south of Belgrade. The vines are dry-farmed in the warm continental climate where night temperatures can drop 20°C – great for freshness and varietal precision. Winemaker Jelena Živanović has been here for three years and is now stamping her own elegant take on the wines. This is her first harvest of Prokupac, with tiny yields of 500g per vine, and aged for just nine months in third-fill, 225L light-toast French oak barrels.

CG Cherry, strawberry, red plum, just a touch of coffee and well-handled oak. Fresh, light, herby red berry notes, refined tannins. Elegant and charming.

AJ Morello cherry, middling intensity of fruit. Fresh, rounded and well made, showing mid-level complexity.

IL Atractive aromas. Intensely fruity, with some classy, well-integrated oak. Dark cherries, blackberries and some eucalyptus. Juicy, with lingering fruitiness. Drink 2026-2036 Alc 14.5%

Decanter | January 2026 | 97

Highly recommended 90-94pts 94

94

94

Bizios Estate, Organic Agiorgitiko, Nemea, Greece 2022

Kozlović, Santa Lucia Teran, Istria, Croatia 2017 Valenta, Terre di Paradiso, Istria, Croatia 2022 CG 95 AJ 93 IL 94

CG 95 AJ 94 IL 93

CG 95 AJ 94 IL 92

kozlovic.hr

valentawines.com

Inviting bramble and bilberry lift; ripe dark berry, plum and prune richness. Mocha, coffee bean and warm spice; sleek, plush yet vibrant. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 14.5%

Youthful, vivid. Mulberry and bilberry, hints of liquorice, cocoa nib and sandalwood. Rich depth and rounded oak meet meaty, smoky tones and bold fruit. Impressive harmony for its age. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 14.5%

Bilberry, mulberry and black cherry with violet lift and well-integrated oak. Red berry brightness adds nuance to a deep, velvety core. Good weight, with lively tannins and a spicy edge. Drink 2026-2036 Alc 14%

£28.50 Maltby & Greek

93

93

92

Bruno Ferenac, Teran, Vižinada, Istria, Croatia 2022

Vina Dobravac, Fuga Teran, Rovinj, Istria, Croatia 2020

Doja, Breg Prokupac, Toplica, Serbia 2020

CG 93 AJ 92 IL 95

CG 93 AJ 93 IL 94

£42 Hic, Niko Preston

@wines_ferenac_bruno

villa-dobravac.com

Complex and harmonious. Dark chocolate, dried cherry and sweet spice over sour and ripe cherry tones. Crunchy acidity and a peppery lift. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13.5%

Intense, vibrant. Black cherry, loganberry, chocolate, vanilla, clove and earth and herb notes. Crunchy acidity, integrated oak and varietal purity. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 14.5%

Dark, generous, layering black cherry, aronia and blackberry with chocolate, coffee, black tea and floral lift, a touch of tar and green pepper adding nuance. Ripe, juicy and concentrated. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 14.5%

92

92

CG 93 AJ 91 IL 93

92

CG 92 AJ 95 IL 90

Pervino, Classic Teran, Novigrad, Istria, Croatia 2022

Rajković, Nobile Prokupac, Župa, Tri Morave, Serbia 2023

fakinwines.com

CG 92 AJ 94 IL 90

CG 93 AJ 90 IL 92

Generous and evolved, showing dark raspberry, red mulberry and prune with touches of leather, spice and earth. Juicy and vibrant with light, supple tannins and a rounded, concentrated core. Effortless drinking. Drink 2026-2033 Alc 14.5%

pervino.eu

vinarijarajkovic.com

Chocolate-tinged cherry and blueberry, lifted by smoke, sweet spice and savoury evolution. Lively fruit over grainy, bold tannins. Integrated vanilla oak. Long and confident. Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13%

Bramble, dried strawberry and black fruit, with mocha, coffee and sweet spice tones.

Full-bodied yet fresh, creamy oak framing bold tannins. A slightly chalky edge and a persistent finish. Drink 2026-2036 Alc 15%

Fakin, Il Primo Teran, Istria, Croatia 2020

92

92

92

Škegro, Carsus Trnjak, Ljubuški, West Herzegovina, Bosnia & Herzegovina 2023

Tvrdoš Monastery, Grande Reserve Vranac, Vinčić, Grand Fru Blu, Srem, Vojvodina, South Herzegovina, Bosnia & Herzegovina 2016 Serbia 2024

CG 94 AJ 92 IL 91

CG 90 AJ 95 IL 91

CG 93 AJ 90 IL 92

tvrdos.com

vinarijavincic.com

Fully mature. Cherry-jam fruit with mocha, chocolate and rich vanilla oak. Ripe, evolved fruit remains vibrant. A coconut-tinged finish. Drink 2026-2036 Alc 15%

Fresh bilberry, Morello cherry, raspberry and loganberry lifted by violet and spice.

Juicy and structured, with a vibrant, fruity finish. Drink 2026-2034 Alc 15%

£28.25 Golborne Deli Bright and vivid with bilberry, bramble and herbal lift, and cocoa and vanilla warmth.

Smooth, with dense tannins and a fruitsweet finish. Drink 2026-2033 Alc 14%

98 | Decanter | January 2026

PANEL TASTING: SOUTHEASTERN EUROPEAN REDS

91

91

91

Aleksandrović, Prokupac, Oplenac, Sumadija, Serbia 2021

Korten, Natura Mavrud & Rubin, Thracian Lowlands, Bulgaria 2022 £

Merga Victa, Plavac Mali, Korčula, Dalmatia, Croatia 2020 £

CG 92 AJ 88 IL 92

CG 93 AJ 90 IL 89

£15-£16.50 Cellar Door Wines, The Jolly

CG 93 AJ 90 IL 91

vinarijaaleksandrovic.rs

Bright and gently aromatic with strawberry, cranberry and red cherry touched by tea leaf, herbs and a hint of peppery spice.

Smartly integrated oak supports a moderately concentrated palate, finishing fresh. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 14%

Merchants, The Old Cellar, The Oxford Wine Co,

A light, fresh expression with strawberry, red cherry and blueberry framed by sage, some savoury lift and subtle iodine notes.

Crunchy and appealing, with good acidity, fine chalky tannins and a gently mineral line.

Drink 2026-2030 Alc 13.5%

91

Village Wines Bexley

Black fruit and well-judged oak. Generous, concentrated; plum and damson. Fresh, with clear varietal character and a structured finish. Drink 2026-2035 Alc 14%

91

£18.99 Novel Wines

91

CG 90 AJ 95 IL 88

Vina Prelac, Refošk, Momjan, Istria, Croatia 2023 Vinarija Radovan, Prokupac, Župa, Tri Morave, Serbia 2023 CG 90 AJ 94 IL 89

@vinarija.pirg

prelac.hr

CG 92 AJ 89 IL 91

Black cherry jam, blueberry and floral cherry notes wrapped up in vanilla-spiced oak.

Youthful acidity keeps things lively, the ripe tannins providing shape, leaving a simple, coconut-tinged and slightly drying finish.

Drink 2026-2033 Alc 12.5%

Youthful red plum, rosehip and a lifted herbaceous note. Dark cherry and blackberry depth with subtle leathery spice.

Firm structure with balance. Clean and juicy, finishing a little astringent yet appealing.

Drink 2026-2036 Alc 14%

vinarijaradovan@gmail.com

Pirg, Vranac, Šumadija, Serbia 2022

90

90

Damson, mulberry and dark cherry with black tea, tobacco leaf and earthy tones.

Generously fruited yet fresh and lightly mineral. Grainy tannins give structure to the fruit-led finish. Drink 2026-2033 Alc 14%

90

Athanasiou, Thronos Agiorgitiko, Nemea, Greece 2021 £

Damjanić, Duro Istriano, Istria, Croatia 2020 CG 92 AJ 88 IL 90

Emporia Winery, Limited Edition Blatina, Mostar, Middle Neretva, Bosnia & Herzegovina 2019

CG 90 AJ 88 IL 91

damjanic.eu

CG 92 AJ 88 IL 90

Spicy and toasty with vanilla and a cigar-box lift over chocolate, fig, raisin and sour cherry. Still fruity, showing smooth texture and lively freshness. Maturing but balanced and composed, with a gently evolving finish. Drink 2026-2030 Alc 13%

Red and dark cherry, herbaceous and earthy tones. Sleek, silky with chalky tannins and supple acidity. Soft structure yet balanced, with gentle sweetness and harmonious fruit. Drink 2026-2027 Alc 14%

£13.25-£16.50 D’Arcy Wines, Kenricks, Oboe Fine Wine of Eydon, Peter Graham, The Somerset Wine Co

Bright, lively. Sour cherry, spice and mocha.

Firm tannins, freshness and a hint of bitterness. Drink 2026-2030 Alc 13.5%

90

90

£22.99 Lunation Wines

90

Makarounas Vineyards, Giannoudi, Letymbou, Pafos, Cyprus 2022

MasVin, Special Edition Crljenak, Dalmatia, Croatia 2021

Medea, Teran, Istria, Croatia 2024

CG 90 AJ 90 IL 90

CG 90 AJ 88 IL 92

medea.hr

masvin-polaca.hr

Crunchy cherry, cranberry and blueberry backed by black cherry depth. Light-bodied and refreshing with pure varietal character.

Modest but vibrant, showing spice and an easy finish. Drink 2026-2029 Alc 12.5%

£41.99 Gusto Wines Spiced cranberry and redcurrant. Juicy and savoury with black fruit, well-integrated oak, ripe tannins and a modest yet vibrant and clean finish. Drink 2026-2030 Alc 13.5%

£ Value wine

Warm and spicy with black cherry, driedfruit, blackberry, tea leaf and vanilla. Vibrant and lively despite its riper, oak-sweetened style. Drink 2026-2030 Alc 15%

CG 90 AJ 89 IL 92

Decanter | January 2026 | 99

PANEL TASTING: SOUTHEASTERN EUROPEAN REDS

90

90

90

Mikro Ktima Titos, Xinomavro-Negoska, Goumenissa, Macedonia, Greece 2021

Milan Budinski, OMO Refošk, Istria, Croatia 2022

Vinakoper, Capris Refošk, Istra, Primorska, Slovenia 2022

CG 88 AJ 90 IL 91

CG 93 AJ 87 IL 90

CG 91 AJ 89 IL 91

info@wineacademycroatia.com

vinakoper.si

Dark cherry and baked fruit, with smoky, toasty oak and sweet spice. Sleek, with good acidity. Fruit is juicy and balanced despite an evolved, oak-forward profile.

Drink 2026-2030 Alc 14.5%

Vibrant blackberry and mulberry. Sourcherry lift, framed by sweet, coconut-tinged oak and floral notes. Bold, robust and firmly structured with high acidity. Needs time to integrate. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13%

£25.50 Cava Spiliadis Leather, dried fig, tea and espresso sit beside bright sour cherry and strawberry.

Precisely made with modern clarity, sweet oak nuances, a touch of salinity and an elegant finish. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13%

90

90

90

Vinarija Šijački, Seduša, Fruška Gora, Srem, Serbia 2022

Zemsil, Monteko Vranec, Tikvesh, Vini Noüe Marinič, Erigone Gaugnaz 1er Cru Refosco, Goriška Brda, Primorska, Slovenia 2020 North Macedonia 2023

CG 92 AJ 89 IL 90

CG 90 AJ 88 IL 92

@vinarijasijacki

£36.72-£39.95 Armit, Dunell’s

Clean and juicy, with black cherry and berries lifted by light vanilla, clove and gentle smoky spice. Smooth and balanced, with ripe tannins and hints of plum, green pepper and herbs. Lightly spiced and a poised finish. Drink 2026-2028 Alc 15%

Mature and complex, with chocolate, bramble, cedar and crushed green pepper alongside a sour-cherry lift. The palate is a touch dry yet it’s concentrated and still fresh. Persistent, with spice and assured definition. Drink 2026-2028 Alc 12.5%

THE

Our buying guide provides you with trusted, independent, expert recommendations on what to buy, drink and cellar.

Each panel tasting is judged by three experienced tasters chosen for their authority in the category of wine being rated. All wines are tasted blind and are pre-poured for judges in flights of 8-10 wines. Our experts taste and score wines individually but then discuss their scores together at the end of each flight. Any wines for which scores are markedly different are retasted; however, judges are under no obligation to amend their scores.

Judges are encouraged to look for typicity in wines, rewarding those that are true to their region. When judging, experts are aware of wine price bands – under £15, £15-£30 and above £30 – with the aim of recognising and rewarding quality and value.

The tastings are held in the controlled environment of Decanter’s tasting suite: a quiet, purposely designed room, with natural light.

We limit the number of wines tasted to a manageable level – a maximum of 85 per day – allowing judges to taste more thoroughly and avoid palate fatigue.

Drink-by dates indicated are based on how long it is prudent to keep the wine in question. However, some wines will have a longer ageing capacity if stored in pristine conditions throughout their lifespan. £ A Value wine symbol is shown next to wines priced at £15 or below, or those deemed by the Regional Editor who organised the tasting to offer particularly good value for money within their category. Inevitably the exact price bands that apply will vary from tasting to tasting, depending on the category being appraised.

GUARANTEE

100 | Decanter | January 2026

CG 91 AJ 87 IL 91 monteko.mk

Fresh and youthful, with cassis, blackberry, bilberry and a gentle iris lift. Juicy and clean with a touch of sweet oak. Not complex but appealing and vibrant, the fruit slightly evolved yet still generous. Easy and unfussy. Drink 2026-2033 Alc 15%

SCORING SYSTEM Tasters rate the wines using the 100-point scoring system. The overall Decanter rating is the average of all three judges’ scores.

The ratings are as follows: 98-100 Exceptional A great, exceptional and profound wine 95-97 Outstanding An excellent wine of great complexity and character 90-94 Highly recommended A very accomplished wine, with impressive complexity 86-89 Recommended A well-made, straightforward and enjoyable wine 83-85 Commended An acceptable, simple wine with limited personality For wines rated Exceptional, Outstanding and Highly recommended, Decanter judges’ individual scores and tasting notes are listed in addition to the average score. To see details of wines scoring 86-89pts, Recommended, please see decanter.com/panel-tastings

Glasses kindly supplied by www.riedel.co.uk

† Ex-UK stockists: for UK consumers purchasing from outside the UK, please note that bottle prices shown include stockists’ shipping fees, duty and taxes where known at time of writing. Goods could still be subject to additional charges on delivery or T&Cs – check with the retailer concerned before purchasing.

£ Value wine

EXPERT’S CHOICE

Lisboa

The wine scene in this Portuguese coastal region has undergone an exciting transformation, and the wealth of local grape varieties and styles here provide for a rewarding voyage of discovery STORY & SELECTION INES SALPICO Malvasia de Colares vines

A

lot of freedom (and, as Charles Dickens taught us, a lot of happiness) can come from an absence of expectations. What you do with that freedom – and joy – is another matter.

Winemakers across Lisboa have used it to transform the region from a sleepy source of unremarkable wine dotted with cult-worthy gems to a hotspot of creativity, sustainability and experimentation that has greatly influenced the evolution of Portuguese wine as a whole.

As an ageing millennial born and raised in Lisbon, I’m the first to feel both pride and awe at the speed at which Lisboa wine has become ‘a thing’ – perhaps even a ‘movement’. When I was a kid, our parents would frown upon drinking local plonk…

Romain Gonitel, one of the founding partners at UK importer Portuguese Story, has witnessed this transformation first hand: ‘Many [leading] projects started in the early and mid-2010s, and created such momentum. We’re talking about producers that were truly pioneers of the natural wine movement in Portugal and continue to set the agenda.’

A slice of the Atlantic

Stretching 160km north of the Portuguese capital, along the country’s rugged western Atlantic coast, Lisboa includes nine designations of origin – Alenquer, Arruda, Bucelas, Carcavelos, Colares, Encostas d’Aire, Lourinhã, Obidos and Torres Vedras – in addition to the all-encompassing Lisboa PGI (Protected Geographical Indication). Most of the wine produced in the region is – almost inevitably – bottled under the generic PGI, allowing for grapes to be blended across the sometimes minuscule appellations, some of which have notably strict requirements. The boutique Colares, for example, requires 102 | Decanter | January 2026

‘The quality, expressiveness and diversity delivered by the Lisboa region is truly staggering’ local clones of Malvasia de Colares and Ramisco to be planted ungrafted on sandy soils within its small perimeter.

Some notable producers – not least several of the leading figures of the region’s ‘new wave’ – also label some or all of their wines simply as Vinho de Portugal, a sign both of restless experimentation and political dissent.

Working together

One of the greatest assets of the region is the extraordinary sense of community – which includes winemakers but also wine bar owners, restaurateurs and sommeliers – and its dynamic of mutual challenge and support. The synergic proximity to the capital has been crucial. ‘It’s a very important interaction,’ confirms Gonitel, who splits his time between London and Lisbon. ‘It’s created a joint culture that is very aware of what happens elsewhere and of what makes the region special. And people help each other.’

Mutual support has allowed producers to validate their stylistic choices and pioneering efforts on sustainability and low-intervention winemaking. But it has also given them energy to recover and

preserve winemaking traditions and grape varieties that might otherwise be lost – not least under the pressure of tourism and real estate. ‘What we’re doing is inherently political,’ says winemaker Tiago Teles. ‘Our work shows that the land has a different [symbolic] value and that we must treasure our history and resources.’

Tradition 2.0

The quality, expressiveness and diversity delivered by the region is truly staggering.

I’ve used the selection that follows to try to capture excellence across the exciting spectrum of very different styles and grape varieties. From ‘unicorn’ classics – such as the Malvasias and Ramiscos of Colares – to crisp takes on Castelão, saline expressions of Arinto and elegant bottlings of the very underestimated Vital, each wine is a nod to Lisboa’s kaleidoscopic wine heritage.

The common denominators?

Sophistication, soulfulness, salinity and drinkability. These are wines from a nearly-lost past that are shaping the future of Portuguese wine while resting their eyes on the Atlantic.

Ines Salpico is Decanter’s Regional Editor for Spain, Portugal and South America. She was born in Portugal and owns a small vineyard and olive grove there

TASTED NON-BLIND

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Quinta do Montalto, Pim Pam Pum Pet Nat Fernão Pires, Lisboa 2023 O

Ramilo, Borra Malvasia de Colares, Colares NV

Baías e Enseadas, Malvasia de Colares, Colares 2023

£23 Substrata Delicious, fun and moreish, this ancestralmethod fizz makes the most of Fernão Pires’ fruit intensity and textural appeal. It spends an average of eight months on the lees, developing a subtle creaminess and frangipane richness that underscores the fleshiness of the quince and apple fruit.

Fragrant top notes of sage, thyme and tarragon contribute both earthiness and lift.

Drink 2026 Alcohol 12.5%

ramilowines.com

@baiaseenseadas

A daring, unapologetic wine that captures the essence of Malvasia de Colares – and of Ramilo. It blends five vintages (2016 to 2020) not just of wine but also of lees (borras), building up a moreish, creamy richness that grounds the ethereal floral notes and solar exotic and pink orchard fruit. It has volume and weight but also energy and verve. A long finish with an endless, alluring tail of mocha and fig leaf.

Drink 2026-2040 Alc 12%

Incredible purity and a layered texture in a nuanced and balanced Malvasia de Colares of intense elegance and poise. Top notes of rose petals, jasmine and apple blossom over beeswax and quince, which, along with peach and nectarine, bring fleshiness to the core. All lifted by wet-stone minerality. A great example from Baías e Enseadas (‘bays and coves’), a project in the heart of Colares that shows no-nonsense elegance across its range. Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13%

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Hugo Mendes, Vital, Lisboa 2020 £27.99 Portugal Best Wines Such a beautiful, nuanced expression of Vital. Inviting, layered nose with apple blossom, frangipane, blanched almonds, preserved lemon and an intriguing touch of flint. The palate follows with zesty fluidity married with saline moreishness. The flavours echo the aromas, building an elegant yet playful framework. Classic while also unexpected, this is a wine that deserves attention and will certainly develop further in bottle. Drink 2026-2030 Alc 11%

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Vale da Capucha, Cedro Alvarão, Vinho de Portugal 2019 O

Lés a Lés, Arinto de Pedra e Cal, Bucelas 2020/2021

£33.20-£34.35 Les Caves de Pyrene,

US$32 Wet Whistle Wines Lés a Lés (from ‘one end to the other’) is a project that makes wines from lesserknown regions and grape varieties across Portugal. Here they have a go at Arinto in the tiny DO of Bucelas, texturally brought to life with some skin contact, vivid acid and mineral freshness. Nectarine, apricot kernel, orange peel and fresh walnuts fill the mid-palate, followed by a stream of lemon juice and pithy white grapefruit. Great grip and tension. Drink 2026-2029 Alc 12.5%

Shelved Wine

Brothers Pedro and Manuel Marques have transformed their family estate into a beacon of low-intervention, experimental winemaking, with a cult following in wine bars the world over. You can see why in this Alvarão (Alvarinho) aged for 30 months in used oak. Hay and linden prelude a palate of apple peel, lemon curd, pickled walnuts and chestnuts, all topped with grapefruit juice. Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13.5%

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Quinta Casal da Cruz, (A Parte) essencial 100% Sercial, Bucelas 2021 O

Cozs, Pop Branco, Vinho de Portugal 2022 O

Manz, Dona Fátima Jampal, Cheleiros 2022

biogrape.pt

£24.95 Cellar Door Wines A partnership between mavericks Tiago Teles (Gilda, Raiz) and António Marquesda-Cruz (Quinta da Serradinha), producing low-intervention gems. Made from Vital and 15% Rabo de Ovelha from vineyards in Serra de Montejunto, this has a distinct salinity, filling the mouth with moreish preserved lemon and salted almonds, and finishing with crunchy red apple topped with lemon zest. Drink 2026-2027 Alc 13.5%

£23.99-£35 79 North, Vinify UK Following the discovery of 200 vines in 2007, Manz has saved the Jampal variety from near extinction and championed it through what remains the only singlevarietal expression. Full of pure, zesty citrus and crunchy green and white orchard fruit, with a toasty outline of smoked almonds and perfumed nuances of vanilla and rose petals. A fine, but firm acid line adds vivid focus. Drink 2026-2029 Alc 13%

As part of the first organic range from DOP Bucelas, Quinta Casal da Cruz produces this Sercial with a delicious phenolic grip. Bone dry and zesty, it travels across the palate with mouthwatering energy, leaving a waxy coat of preserved lemon, grapefruit pith and apple peel, followed by creamy frangipane and bitter almonds. Pleasing verve and a saline rim – a great showcase of what this variety can do. Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13% White

Rosé

Orange

Red

Sweet & fortified wines O Organic

Decanter | January 2026 | 103

EXPERT’S CHOICE: LISBOA

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Quinta do Olival da Murta, Serra Oca Moscatel Graúdo, Lisboa 2023 O

Adega Regional de Colares, Arenae Ramisco, Colares 2016

Haja Cortezia, Almograve Vinhas Velhas, Lisboa 2023

£31 New Breed, Vino Gusto Fermented on the skins, with five days of maceration, this is a well-crafted orange wine and characterful interpretation of Moscatel. An assertive phenolic grip supports the red apple, nectarine, loquat and furry peach flavours. A delicious touch of Amaretto adds a moreish twist, while linden and dry hay linger on the long finish.

Drink 2026-2027 Alc 12%

arcolares.com

US$24-$25 Flor Wines, Liner & Elsen This red from a family project with a background in hospitality and a passion for surfing is as detailed and vibrant as it is expressive. Salt-rimmed tannins on the mouthwatering palate, framing the crunchy sour cherry, plum and blood orange fruit.

A lively rim of parsley and oregano gives nuance. It hails from a field blend (mostly Castelão and Tinta Roriz), planted a mere 3km from the ocean. Elegant, delicious, invigorating. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 12%

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Standout expression of Colares’ flagship red variety Ramisco, from the local cooperative, Portugal’s oldest. At once intense and delicate, with layers of spice, smoke and dried fruit, deftly woven by filigree tannins. Cherry pit, raspberry jam, plum and toasted coffee beans cloaked in dark chocolate and sprinkled with nutmeg, cardamom and salty liquorice. This is drinking beautifully now but still has a long life ahead. Drink 2026-2040 Alc 11.5%

93

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Viúva Gomes, Collares Tinto, Colares 2017

Espera, Vinha dos Vales Castelão, Vinho de Portugal 2023

Uncondemned, Ourém Red, Vinho de Portugal 2020

£50-£56/50cl Abbey Fine Wines, Shrine

£35.20 Uncharted Wines Ethereal and bright, this shows what Castelão can do when treated with a light and focused hand. The fruit is sourced from the 50-year-old Vales plot in Alcobaça, whole-bunch fermented and aged for 10 months in French oak. With transparent cranberry, sour cherry and pomegranate, a touch of rhubarb, liquorice and juniper, this is at once elegant and cheeky. Zesty tannins add energy and coherence.

Drink 2026-2032 Alc 12.5%

£22 Theatre of Wine This joint venture between UK importer Portuguese Story and André Gomes Pereira of Quinta do Montalto traces old vineyards at risk of abandonment (condemned) and helps the owners to bring them back into production. From 120- to 150-year-old field blends planted to red and white varieties, this has a rustic classicism, with fragrant petrichor, sage and tobacco providing a bed for prune, fig and black olive, outlined by bergamot notes. Drink 2026-2028 Alc 14%

to the Vine

A classic from cult producer Viúva Gomes, founded in 1808 and inextricably linked with the vines and wines of Colares. A deep expression of Ramisco with vivid, finely etched flavours of red cherry, cranberry and pomegranate against a backdrop of sage, tobacco and camphor. A thin seam of white pepper, nutmeg and cardamom. As classy as its vintage label. Drink 2026-2045 Alc 12%

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Quinta de Chocapalha, Castelão, Lisboa 2020

Adega de Belém, Vinho Licoroso, Carcavelos 2021

£28-£29.99/37.5cl Bottle Apostle, Martinez

£15.95 JN Wine Acquired in 1987 by the Tavares da Silva family, Quinta de Chocapalha has Sandra Tavares da Silva (of Wine & Soul fame) as chief winemaker, leading a wine program of polished classicism. Fleshy and dense, this is a savoury Castelão that fills the mouth with salty, meaty anchovy, briny black olives and juicy plum. Tannins are supple and fragrant, lined with mountain herbs, sage and thyme. Drink 2026-2028 Alc 14%

adegabelem.com

Wines, The Stroud Wine Co, Vintage Drinks

Lisbon’s most exciting urban winery, making category-defying low-intervention wines.

This is a punk, red version of Carcavelos that invites a reassessment of these fortified wines. Made with Castelão grapes sourced from the Quinta de São José de Caparide seminary, it’s full of juicy red fruit and macerated herbs, brought to life by spicy tannins and a touch of orange zest. Pure, delicious fun. Drink 2026-2060 Alc 17.5%

A municipality-funded project, Villa Oeiras has been instrumental in the revival of Carcavelos and its tradition of fortified wines. This blend of components aged for an average of seven years offers a classical, pristine character with intense, fleshy fruit at the core (nectarine, papaya, loquat), outlined by jasmine, blanched almonds and linden, with a smoky tail of mocha and honey. Drink 2026-2029 Alc 18.5%

104 | Decanter | January 2026

White

Rosé

Orange

Villa Oeiras, 7 Anos, Carcavelos

Red

Sweet & fortified wines O Organic

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Decanter | January 2026 | 105

TASTED NON-BLIND

Weekday wines

The Decanter tasting team spends a great deal of time out and about at tastings, finding new and exciting wines, or new vintages of existing wines, for everyday drinking. On these pages we bring you 25 top picks that are all ready to drink now, available in the UK and priced at £30 or less CHOSEN BY JAMES BUTTON, VIRGINIA DASKAL, NATALIE EARL, TINA GELLIE, HELENA NICKLIN, INES SALPICO, DAVID WILLIAMS & SYLVIA WU

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M&S, Crémant d’Alsace Blanc de Blancs, France NV V £14 Ocado If you like your sparkling wines on the fruity side, look out for this new addition to the M&S fizz range from Cave Jean Geiler. Lots of tangy, apple and pear fruit-gummy flavour then a hint of almond and crystallised citrus on the finish. Refreshing party fun.

DW Alc 11.5%

Sainsbury’s, Taste the Difference Gavi di Gavi, Piedmont, Italy 2024 £13 Sainsbury’s Like the TtD Vieilles Vignes Chablis (£17.50), this 100% Cortese is a step up from the often so-so supermarket ranks of its genre; a Gavi that ripples with cool stream clarity and freshness, subtle white flowers, preserved lemon and juicy fresh pear and apple.

DW Alc 11.5%

Cambalala, Specially Selected Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2024 £6.29 Aldi With its genteel but immaculately presented fresh ripe apple, white nectarine and ripple of fresh acidity, this new addition to Aldi’s range comes over as a South African answer to Mâcon-Villages. Bright, food-flexible, easy, but not facile drinking. DW Alc 13.5%

106 | Decanter | January 2026

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88

The Society’s Exhibition Valdeorras Godello, Galicia, Spain 2024 £14.50 The Wine Society Sourced from Virgen del Galir, the Galician arm of CVNE’s portfolio, the fullness and clarity of this Godello live up to Wine Society buyer Harriet Kininmonth’s description of ‘Spain’s answer to white Burgundy’, although the lemon-curd richness is all the variety’s own. DW Alc 13%

93

High street choice

Felsner, Moosburgerin Grüner Veltliner, Kremstal, Austria 2024 £14 Waitrose A cut above most high street Grüner Veltliners, this hails from a vineyard that dates back to the 9th century but is the definition of modern Austrian dry white wine in its clarity of tangy citrus, ripe white nectarine and classic celery salt and white pepper tones. DW Alc 12.5%

Cantina di Custoza, Custodia Custoza Superiore, Veneto, Italy 2024

Wildeberg, Coterie SemillonSauvignon Blanc, Coastal Region, South Africa 2023 £12.95-£14.95 Booths, Cheers, Lekker

£11-£14 New Forest Wines,

Wines, ND John, Talking Wines, Vin Cognito,

Shelved Wine, Strictly Wine,

Vino Fandango

The Fine Wine Co

Waxy, intense barrel-fermented Semillon leads the way in this outstandingly good value white, with the 20% unoaked (but long lees-aged) Sauvignon Blanc bringing aromatic zing and brightness. Exotic notes of coconut cream, lemongrass and pineapple complete the complex, foodfriendly picture. DW Alc 12%

This refreshing blend is a great value buy. Leafy lemon and lime scents mingle with a deliciously peachy and saline character in the mouth, ending on a pithy grapefruit note. JB Alc 13.5%

Vegan V Vegetarian O Organic B Biodynamic

WEEKDAY WINES (UP TO £15)

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White

Laurent Miquel, Jeu Floral Rosé, Languedoc, France 2024 £11 Sainsbury’s Can you make Provencestyle rosé in the Languedoc?

Well this is a very convincing version of the pale pastelshaded genre, graceful and gently creamy with notes of strawberry, watermelon and spring blossom, and a dry, fresh, citrus-edged finish.

DW Alc 12.5%

Sainsbury’s, Taste the Difference Ventoux, Rhône, France 2023 £11.50 Sainsbury’s A highlight of the French red wines on show at the latest Sainsbury’s tasting, there’s a deliciously savoury, charcuterie-like streak of Syrah bloodiness and peppery spice here. A gutsy red of real definition where the intensity is leavened by freshness. DW Alc 14.5%

Morrisons, The Best Block Series 008 Georgian Saperavi, Kakheti, Georgia 2020

Dominique Piron, Beaujolais Villages, France 2023

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£11.50 Waitrose Hugely fragrant, with notes of potpourri and violets, this is Beaujolais on steroids! But it doesn’t stray into cloying or confected. Incredibly tasty, with a silky texture and a creamy finish. Easy to enjoy but not simple, as there’s lots of delightful black cherry fruit.

NE Alc 13%

M&S, Palataia Pinot Noir, Pfalz, Germany 2023

90

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Must-try fortified

£10 Ocado Sleek and slinky but deep in flavour, this Spätburgunder, by former M&S winemaker Gerd Stepp, is that rarest of beasts: a £10 Pinot Noir of genuine character and succulent drinkability. Soft cherry-berry fruit, a hit of cola bean and elegant tannins. DW Alc 13%

Robert Oatley, Semaphore Cabernet Sauvignon, Western Australia 2023

£12 Morrisons Nice to see Morrisons offering a chance to get to know the joys of Georgia’s very own Saperavi. Made by Dugladze, this is lively and varietally pure, with just enough edge to the clean, deep blackberry fruit in its fresh acidity and tannic bite. DW Alc 13%

£10.75 Co-op This West Australian Cabernet offers a lot of class for the cash, with a delightful freshening streak of blackcurrant leaf framing the classic cassis and subtly toasty oak, while the palate is succulent, with black fruit and fine-grained tannins.

DW Alc 14%

Gnarly Head, Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi, California, USA 2022

Sichel, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France 2022

Sainsbury’s, Taste the Difference Oloroso Sherry, Jerez Spain

£12-£14.50/37.5cl Amps,

£9.75/50cl Sainsbury’s Calling Sherry good value is almost tautological at this point, but this perennial favourite of the Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference range really is amazing quality for the money: a wine of immensely tangy intensity with orange-citrus and raisin-box characters, part of a complex mix that also includes figs and cinnamon. DW Alc 20%

£13.95 The Wine Society A hug in a glass. Rich with dried fig and spiced damson jam, lifted by notes of dark cherry and bergamot. Despite its generosity, the palate is fresh, with velvety tannins and vanilla bean warmth. Bold yet approachable, this is full of easy charm and character.

HN Alc 14.5% Rosé

Orange

Red

90

Sweet & fortified wines

Co-op, ND John, Palmers Wine Store

Pure in fruit and tangy on the finish, this blue cheese- and fruit dessert-ready sweet wine is filled with fresh mango, crystallised citrus peel and dried apricot – the honeytextured palate freshened and balanced by bright, clean acidity. DW Alc 13%

Decanter | January 2026 | 107

WEEKDAY WINES (£15+ TO £30)

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Château de Plaisance, L’Anjou Blanc, Loire, France 2023 B £21-£25.50 Hedley Wright,

93

Aromas of crystallised ginger and apple skin. Balances zingy acidity with a rounded body.

Subtle spice and autumnal warmth linger, delivering both precision and gentle richness through a long, poised finish.

VD Alc 12%

£22 The Wine Society If you’re new to Polish wine: i) join the club; ii) this concrete egg-fermented Chardonnay may surprise you. The pick of a trio of wines from Kamil Barczentewicz, it’s a graceful, rounded style, with golden apple and a touch of lemon pithiness on the bright finish.

DW Alc 13%

Quinta da Fonte Souto, Branco, Alentejo, Portugal 2023

Laurent Delaunay, Les Grappillages Chablis, Burgundy, France 2023

Nickolls & Perks, Noble Green, Victor Indigo November

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£19.30-£24.95 DBM Wines,

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Lekker Wines, Nickolls & Perks, Noble Green, The Wine Society, Vinvm

Ripe yellow and white orchard fruit over a creamy layer of lemon curd and frangipane.

A tingling, zesty core. Moreish and structured yet light on its feet. A subtle rim of blanched nuts and spice. IS Alc 13.5%

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Château Beau-Site, St-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France 2019 V £25-£28.15 Co-op, The Fine

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Wine Co

A Cabernet-led blend from the excellent 2019 vintage, it’s cigar-box fragrant yet deep, dark and plush, with cassis and black olive savouriness, and velvety tannins. In a lovely moment now, but it will certainly keep for a decade or more. DW Alc 13.5%

93

Kamil Barczentewicz, Béton Chardonnay, Dobre, Poland 2023

Kaesler, Reach for the Sky GSM, Barossa Valley, South Australia 2021 £22.50 Vinvm From a stellar Barossa vintage, this overdelivers for the price. Generous, juicy fruit and sweet baking spice notes evoke warm mulberry pie with sugar-dusted crust, supported by plush tannins and bright acidity to balance.

Delicious now but with life ahead. TG Alc 15%

Niepoort, Late Bottled Vintage Port, Douro, Portugal 2019

£28-£29.99 Bowes Wine,

£20-£28 Lockett Bros, The Fine

Wine Co, Waitrose

A gloriously suave and silky Sangiovese, in which a burst of classic, pure Chianti sour cherry is joined by oregano and thyme, and super-supple tannins into a long, savoury finish. DW Alc 14%

108 | Decanter | January 2026

93

Must-try orange

£18 Morrisons Crafted by fifth-generation winemaker and négociant Laurent Delaunay, this opens with aromas of yuzu, fragrant herbs and lemongrass. The palate is savoury and oily, with notes of yellow apple and citrus zest, finishing with a peppery kick. SW Alc 13%

Querciabella, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy 2021 O Ten Acre Wines, The Guildford

95

Wine Co, Waitrose

Swish and stylishly textured, with gorgeous clarity of fruits of the forest. This top-flight example is a reminder of the value LBV offers – an immediately pleasurable, fine-tannined delight at any time of year.

DW Alc 19.5%

Domaine Torredemer-Mangin, Orage, Roussillon, France 2024

O

£29 People’s Wine This blend of two Muscats is fragrant and perfectly pitched, with gorgeous notes of orange peel, dried leaves, apricot and mango. It’s so well balanced, being both floral and a little rusty and leafy. The palate is concentrated, with really good presence and a long, spicy, cumin-infused finish.

Fruity enough not to be overtly savoury, but also not hugely flowery and exotic. So spicy!

Good tension, no flab – it’s all tucked in, with a good, solid, chalky grip. NE Alc 13.5% Vegan V Vegetarian O Organic B Biodynamic

TASTED NON-BLIND

Weekend wines

Get through the working week, and it’s time to crack open something a little bit more special.

As a companion selection to our 25 wines under £30, the tastings team has selected seven standout bottles that are sure to impress, all available in the UK and priced between £30 and £60 CHOSEN BY VIRGINIA DASKAL, HELENA NICKLIN, JULIE SHEPPARD, DAVID WILLIAMS & SYLVIA WU

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Co-op, Les Pionniers Vintage Brut, Champagne, France 2013 £35.20 Co-op Made by Piper Heidsieck, this latest mature vintage Les Pionniers is a class apart when it comes to supermarket own-label Champagne – with gorgeous, yeasty-patisserie richness, a still-electrifying swish and a cut of fine acidity and pointillist mousse. DW Alc 12%

Merry Edwards, Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, California, USA 2023

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£44.95 The Fine Wine Co, The Wine Library

Powerful and textural. Opens with pear, almond and white flowers. The palate reveals citrus, papaya and mango over stony minerality, ginger and subtle petrol tones. Tight acidity promises graceful ageing. VD Alc 14.5%

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£53 Vinvm, Wine Direct Tropical and citrus-driven, this offers a complex blend of fresh herbs juxtaposed with mango, melon and a gentle minerality.

A hint of oak spice and long lees ageing add complexity and the end result is an exuberant wine that doesn’t overplay its hand. HN Alc 14%

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Paros Farming Community, Seiradi Cuvée Premno, Cyclades, Greece 2022

Rosé

Orange

Red

95

Must-try red

Ten Minutes by Tractor, Up The Hill Estate Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia 2021 £38-£43.99 London End Wines, Saghi, Vinvm

Savoury aromas, mellow red fruits, with potpourri and balsamic strawberries. A savoury palate; roasted meat and charcuterie balanced by strawberry, plum and a crack of black pepper. JS Alc 12.5%

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£40 WoodWinters This indigenous red blend opens with sour dark cherry and a hint of cream. Excellent concentration and purity, and juicy fruits. Supple, with good balance and a creamy texture, finishing with prune and chocolate raisin. SW Alc 12.8% White

Domaine des Baumard, Clos du Papillon Savennières, Loire, France 2020

Sweet & fortified wines

Domaine Huguenot, Les Crais Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France 2020 O £52.95 Lea & Sandeman A plush, powerful Pinot Noir with concentrated Morello cherry fruit supported by well-integrated smoky bacon tones from the oak, with a subtle tobacco-leaf complexity emerging as the wine begins to age. Flashy and fabulous. HN Alc 13%

Castello di Meleto, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Tuscany, Italy 2020 £31.15-£40 Lekker Wines, Museum Wines, The Fine Wine Co, Vinvm

The 130ha of vineyards on this estate are run on a largely organic basis. Fruit for the Gran Selezione is sorted twice before destemming and fermentation. Aged in new and used tonneaux and barrels. Striking black cherry, ripe red berries and lifted notes of lavender and rosemary. The palate marries power with refinement, firm yet silken tannins and a spice-tinged finish of notable length and harmony. VD Alc 14%

Decanter | January 2026 | 109

Shiraz story

Uncovering Australia’s top regional signatures

COMPILED BY CHRIS MERCER

A

ustralian winemakers’ prowess with Shiraz lit up the Decanter World Wine Awards in 2025, and underlined the enticing diversity of premium styles to be explored. Brilliant Shiraz wines span many growing regions, from the heartlands of McLaren Vale and the Barossa Valley in South Australia to the cooler-climate Yarra Valley in Victoria. Individual sites and old-vine plots add nuance, enabling winemakers to weave a tapestry of subtly diverging styles around this grape variety, which goes by the name of Syrah in France’s Rhône region and elsewhere.

Top Australian Shiraz wines balance richness with elegance and poise. Many display a core of luscious fruit, from blackberry to plum and some red berry notes, which can be complemented to varying

degrees by spicy, earthy and mocha-esque tones, along with extra savoury elements.

Well-integrated tannins meet a freshening lift of acidity in the best wines, which promise to develop even greater complexity with long-term ageing. Australian Shiraz wines also offer mouthwatering options for the table, from comforting, hearty stews on a deep midwinter evening to delicious barbecued fare.

DWWA’s rigorous judging process, underpinned by leading experts in their field, gives wine lovers a perfect platform from which to explore Australia’s Shiraz landscape. See top medal winners from DWWA 2025 below.

Explore the full results from DWWA 2025 at awards.decanter.com

BEST IN SHOW Barossa Old Vine Co, Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia 2022

Trentham Estate, Reserve Shiraz, Heathcote, Victoria 2023

97 Best in Show

97 Best in Show

pinnacledrinks.com.au

£19.50-£20.50 Frontier Fine Wines,

The magnetic appeal of Barossa Shiraz has made it a favourite down the years for the DWWA Best in Show selection. This darkly coloured 2022 seduced our judges with its languid but alluring aromatic wealth, depth of flavour, structural seriousness and the softness of its balance – all very different from the opulent and sometimes over-showy examples most wine lovers will remember. Aromas here (while oaked) suggest underbrush and dry grasses as well as sweet baked plums.

The palate is rich, opulent, just a little salty as well as softly fruity; gentle, plump fruit tannins shape that fruit to a greater extent than the admirably understated acidity.

You sense as little interference as possible from vineyard to bottle – and this vineyard clearly has much to offer. Alcohol 14.5%

110 | Decanter | January 2026

The Vinorium

Remarkably, out of the 30 Australian reds in the DWWA Best in Show selection over the last decade, this is the first to have come from Victoria. It’s very lively in aroma, with lots of red fruits in peppery, spicy style. On the palate, it’s boisterous and fresh, softly balanced and very pure-fruited. Intriguingly, the spice seems to pull back once the wine is in the mouth; with the warmth of the tongue compelling floral notes emerge.

Grace, charm, poise and freshness, with a gratifyingly discreet tannin-acid balance: the craftsmanship conveys a strong sense of natural articulation and an unforced celebration of outstanding raw materials. Congratulations to Victoria and to Heathcote, and well done, too, to the team behind this deft and satisfying wine. Alc 14.5%

South Australia

Western Australia Cape Mentelle, Heritage Shiraz, Margaret River 2023

John Duval Wines, Eligo Shiraz, Barossa 2021

Heirloom Vineyards, Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2023

97 Platinum

97 Platinum

96 Gold

POA £ Bancroft Wines Opulent blueberry, black cherry and damson aromas with nuances of violets over plush oak and smatterings of coconut and spice. Assertive and compelling, with finely woven tannins and embracing acidity. Alc 14.1%

heirloomvineyards.com.au

£70 Liberty Wines Hugely concentrated, with tiers of prune, plum and raspberry jam shrouded in finely toasted oak and a delectably textured crunch of blueberries lining the palate.

Alc 14.5%

Sumptuous blackberry, raspberry and bramble fruit aromas merge into the palate and linger over the smooth texture. Fulsome and rich style with lashings of tannin and spicy oak. Hedonistic and lengthy. Alc 14.5%

Sons of Eden, Romulus Old Vine Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2022

Dandelion Vineyards, Firehawk Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2022

Monteperle, Reserve Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2022

96 Gold

95 Gold

95 Gold

POA £ ABS Wine Agencies An explosion of blackberries, crushed violets, green leafy herbs and plum cake unfurls over a glossy texture and silky tannins, then a supple mocha note to end. Alc 14.5%

dandelionvineyards.com.au

monteperle.com.au

Brooding and sultry with an intensity of plum, mulberry, blackberry and spiced fruit cake. Full-bodied and generous with pleasing tannins, a meaty texture and violet-sweet finish. Alc 14.5%

A wine of phenomenal texture, with brooding, savoury bresaola notes offset by waves of ripe cherry, crushed red florals and chocolate. Lustrous and impressively long. Alc 15.2%

Berton Vineyard, Reserve Shiraz, Barossa 2021

Hardys, Tintara Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2022

94 Silver

94 Silver

£16-£19.50 Corking Wines,

£14.50 Vinarchy The nose shows aromas of blue fruits with touches of black olive and dark spices.

Fleshy and elegant on the palate. Alc 14%

Fintry Wines, Hallgarten Wines, Shelved Wine, Strictly Wine, The Fine Wine Co, The Good Spirits Co, Wine Poole, Wine Republic

Concentrated cassis, sweet vanilla; notes of pepper and crushed violets. Silky, fresh and characterful. Alc 14.5%

Victoria

Centare Vineyard, Old Block Shiraz, Yarra Valley 2022

95 Gold

centarevineyard.com

Pristine varietal aromas of blue fruit and black olive tapenade on a bed of sweet spice, with a soft, supple palate and lovely herbal lift on the finish. Alc 13.8%

New South Wales Barmah Park, Cape Schanck Reserve Shiraz, Heathcote 2022

De Bortoli, The Estate Vineyard Shiraz, Yarra Valley 2024

Tyrrell’s, Winemaker’s Selection Vat 9 Shiraz, Hunter Valley 2023

94 Silver

94 Silver

95 Gold

barmahparkwines.com.au

debortoli.com.au

Bramble and black cherry aromas seasoned by subtle new oak nuances. Robust on the palate, with rounded tannins. Alc 15.5%

Stony nose with aromas of violets, black and red fruits, and savoury undertones.

Chalky and mineral, with soft tannins. Alc 13.8%

£55 John E Fells US$80 Broadbent Selections Evocative dark berries, violet perfume and peppery spice bustle over strident tannins and lifted acidity. Full-on style with a mouthfilling texture and length. Alc 13.5%

DWWA 2026 entries are now open! Enter the world’s largest wine competition at enter.decanter.com White

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Decanter | January 2026 | 111

Market watch

News from the world of investments and auctions COMPILED BY CHRIS MERCER

An ‘incredible auction moment’

E

ye-catching prices for historic French-origin wines lit up the festive auction scene in early December, bringing down the gavel on 2025 in style.

All lots found buyers when Christie’s auctioned historic wines from the cellars of Burgundy’s prestigious producer-merchant Bouchard Père & Fils in early December.

Total sales hit almost £2.38m, and the star lot was a single bottle of Bouchard Père & Fils, La Tâche 1886. It fetched £325,000, including buyer’s premium, eclipsing a pre-sale high estimate of £19,000.

It’s an example of what can happen when bidders set their sights on a particular opportunity. ‘There was a round of applause when the hammer came down,’ said Tim Triptree MW, international director of Christie’s wine and spirits department.

‘There was spirited bidding,’ he said, adding provenance, rarity and Bouchard’s high-quality reputation combined to create this ‘incredible auction moment’.

Among other highlights, a bottle of Bouchard Père & Fils, Clos Vougeot 1857 sold for £47,500 (high e: £14,000). Individual bottles of Bonnes Mares 1865 and

Adam Bilbey, Christie’s global head of wine and spirits, during the La Tâche 1886 sale

Romanée-St-Vivant 1861 each sold for £68,750 (high e: £15,000 and £14,000 respectively). Triptree said results were another encouraging sign for the fine wine market in general.

Fellow auction house Sotheby’s also hosted a major sale of Lafite Rothschild wines in Paris, including bottles sourced from the Bordeaux first growth’s cellars.

A bottle of Lafite 1870, a lauded vintage, sold for €100,000 (£87,335), including buyer’s premium (high e: €60,000).

Prices similar in live and online auctions

Online wine auction sales in the US have risen from about $20m in 2008 to more than $120m annually in the past couple of years, according to First Growth Technologies, publisher of Wine Market Journal (WMJ).

Prices for high-end wines auctioned online now rival ‘live’ sales, though mature wines tend to perform better at in-person auctions, said the group, citing WMJ data.

‘This data suggests that collectors can buy and sell younger wines online with the

same confidence as at live events,’ said Peter Gibson, the editor of WMJ. ‘Older bottles still tend to achieve higher prices live, while buyers may find better value for them online.’

First Growth Technologies owner David Parker also owns online specialist Brentwood Auctions, formerly Brentwood Wine Co. Brentwood held one weekly sale in 1998 but today hosts several, including for rare spirits, it noted.

DISCLAIMER: Decanter’s Marketwatch pages are published for informational purposes only and do not constitute investment advice. Wine prices may vary and they can go down as well as up. Seek independent advice where necessary and be aware that wine investment is unregulated in several markets, including the UK.

112 | Decanter | January 2026

COMING UP Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2023 release Not all Burgundy estates follow the same timetable, and the region’s fabled Domaine de la RomanéeConti tends to release new vintages once bottled. Its class of 2023 is next up and merchant Corney & Barrow, UK agent for DRC, said it planned to offer the wines from early February 2026 onwards.

Vega Sicilia Watch for new Tempos Vega Sicilia releases in early 2026, including the 2016 vintage of flagship wine Unico. UK importer Berkmann Cellars planned to release wines to the trade in January. Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, said Vega Sicilia trading value plateaued in 2025, having surged in 2024.

Taste Burgundy en primeur Various UK-based merchants have scheduled Burgundy 2024 en primeur tasting events for January 2026, open to collectors who wish to taste the young vintage for themselves. Berry Bros & Rudd, Jeroboams, Corney & Barrow and wine club Honest Grapes were among those listing Burgundy en primeur tastings in London.

Brunello di Montalcino 2021 January 2026 marks the official starting point for the first Brunello di Montalcino 2021-vintage releases, though winery schedules will vary. This is a top-rated year for Tuscany more broadly. A full Brunello di Montalcino report by expert Michaela Morris is coming soon to Decanter Premium online.

PLEASE NOTE: Release schedules are subject to change

SPONSORED BY

Modest growth for top Burgundies Burgundy has continued to show mixed signals in an uncertain market going into 2026, but some blue-chip wines recently crept back into positive price territory after significant corrections.

Average Burgundy prices fell by a few percentage points last year, yet there was a slight upturn from June, said international merchant Bordeaux Index and its LiveTrade online trading platform.

Having surged prior to 2023, a number of top-tier Burgundies have undergone relatively big price corrections in a subsequent secondary market downturn.

Have prices bottomed-out? Price performance varied between wines in 2025, with rises and falls, said Bordeaux Index’s Geraint Carter (see chart).

He highlighted growing positive sentiment around a few blue-chip producers, including Domaine de la Romanee-Conti (DRC), Domaine Armand Rousseau and Domaine Leflaive.

They have a track record of trading and some top wines have dropped 25%-40% in price in about three years.

‘Having that market correction is important in making a case for a sale,’ Carter said. Some wines were still double their price 10 years ago, noting ‘longterm holders of these wines are sitting on big paper profits at current levels’.

Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, reported a rising bid-to-offer ratio for wines in its Burgundy 150 index, which also increased 1.1% in value in November. The index was still down 4.4% year-to-date, but Liv-ex said: ‘At the very top end of the market, price stability does appear to be returning.’

Fine wine & spirits specialist Bordeaux Index kindly sponsors this section of Decanter, and provides its view on the market here every issue. It can be found at bordeauxindex.com

Burgundy: green shoots?

Domaine Leflaive, Bâtard-Montrachet 2022

In November, Miles Davis, market expert at Vinum Fine Wines, which has offices in the UK and Asia, reported relatively good demand for vaunted names such as Domaines Roumier, Coche-Dury, DRC, Rousseau and Leflaive, as well as opportunities – having recently offered a super-rare, 12-bottle case of Roumier, Bonnes Mares 1995.

On the auction scene, recent results have fostered confidence. ‘There’s still huge global demand for Burgundy,’ said Tim Triptree MW, international director for wines and spirits at Christie’s, noting a well-established secondary market driven by scarcity and thirsty collectors.

Still, there was a feeling among some merchants that patient bidders hold a strong hand. Bordeaux Index’s Carter said that, beyond a small group of blue-chip producers, Burgundy ‘remains a very fragile market’.

Burgundy prices in 2025: key blue-chip producers

Price performance varied among wines of key blue-chip producers, but there were some positive signs following a relatively deep market correction, showed Bordeaux Index/LiveTrade data comparing prices in January and December 2025 (GBP currency).

DATA SOURCE BORDEAUX INDEX/LIVETRADE PHOTOGRAPHS SAEMILEE/GETTY IMAGES, CHRISTIE’S

The Bordeaux Index view

Wine DRC, Romanée-Conti 2015 Domaine Rousseau, Chambertin 2015 Domaine Rousseau, Clos-St-Jacques 2016 Domaine Leflaive, Bâtard-Montrachet 2022 Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Pucelles 2022 Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Pucelles 2020 DRC, La Tâche 2018 DRC, La Tâche 2019 DRC, La Tâche 2016 DRC, Richebourg 2018

Price change in 2025 +15% +1% +2% +8% +2% +1% -4% -19% -8% -3%

The story in Burgundy, much like the broader market, has become one of recovery; however, it’s important not to lose sight of the fact that prices remain materially down for the year to date. The modest rebound since the mid-summer lows is real but so far concentrated on a narrow set of wines with proven trading histories and, crucially, dramatic multi-year price corrections.

Outside these areas, liquidity remains worryingly thin. Large segments of the market are effectively un-bid, with offer prices that are frequently optimistic to the point of delusional. Until pricing adjusts, particularly among mid-tier producers, the market will struggle to find broad-based momentum.

A little context is essential when considering Burgundy. Yes, the market is down more than 30% since 2022, but it has still more than doubled over the past decade.

Many long-term holders are sitting on substantial paper profits and, in theory, should be willing future sellers. Yet, on the other hand, the fact that they haven’t sold during three years of declines suggests that their attachment is strong.

More broadly, Burgundy is often portrayed as a home for the passionate aficionado, in contrast to Bordeaux or Champagne, where cynical investors tend to predominate. This characterisation is being tested more than ever, and the outcome will do much to determine the direction of prices in the months ahead.

Decanter | January 2026 | 113

ON THE RACK

Eric Asimov

The wine critic for The New York Times would love a bottle of Cheval Blanc 1947, but will happily drink a $14 Garnacha from Navarra What’s on your wine rack at the moment?

A lot of dry Italian whites. I’ve been really interested in Fiano di Avellino recently; dry Rieslings; an occasional dry white from southern Chile, California or Oregon.

Much of what I drink is dictated by stories I’m working on, so can be out of my hands.

Where do you keep your wine?

Everywhere. I’m in a New York apartment and I have three wine fridges, plus racks on any outside walls that are not heated. I also have friends who let me keep wine at their places. It’s a typical New York story – you find space where you can.

How did you become interested in wine?

I visited France for the first time at age 14.

This was the early 1970s, and in the US there were a lot of TV dinners and frozen foods.

France exposed me to great ingredients and serious cooking. It opened my mind to how good food could be and made me want to have that experience over and over. As I got older, I added wine to that equation.

Who’s a memorable person with whom you’ve enjoyed a glass of wine?

Hugh Johnson. I first sat next to him at a wine dinner in the early 1990s. I don’t think there’s anybody who has better described the sensations of enjoying wine without descending into cliches.

Name a wine you’d love to try I’ve never had a ’47 Château Cheval Blanc.

Domaine Leroy is one of those grand cru wines where I’ve had a taste, but I would love to sit down with a bottle and just experience it over time. I’ve had a

114 | Decanter | January 2026

glass of Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Le Musigny, but a bottle would be a great thing.

Favourite wine for a special occasion?

For celebratory meals I like a progression of wines, so we’ll start with something sparkling. Burgundy will be involved if it’s not too exorbitant. It’s getting harder to afford Chambolles or any of the great Côte de Nuits. But there are so many good up-and-coming producers from Savignylès-Beaune or the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune that it’s like an endless series of discoveries.

Where do you buy your wines?

There are a lot of great retail shops in New York, such as Chambers Street Wines, Astor Wines, Flatiron Wines. I order online, for delivery. This is New York – I don’t have a car and there’s nowhere to park anyway.

Favourite restaurant pairings?

I’m always exploring new places. New York restaurants are doing a great job with wine but it’s really hard to find good bottles under $100 any more. I’m not talking about Michelin-starred restaurants – I’m talking about restaurants that purport to be

‘neighbourhood places’. But there are also pizza places in New York that have great lists of natural wines.

Your classic dinner party dish and wine combination?

Meat lasagna – but without béchamel. I don’t like béchamel. I have developed my own recipe, which you can find in The New York Times. Served with a Chianti Classico.

Your go-to wines for snacks and watching TV? For the most part, I drink wine with meals, but if I have a yen for something like Marcona almonds, I’ll pick a good Sherry.

I’m often in the mood to drink sparkling wine: Champagne, German Sekt, or one of the many great sparkling wines from Italy, Oregon or California.

Favourite supermarket wines?

Even if supermarkets in New York were permitted to sell wine, I wouldn’t be shopping in them. There are relatively inexpensive wines that I like. Lambert de Seyssel makes a sparkling wine that’s excellent. Raventós i Blanc is a wonderful source of inexpensive Cava. Viña Zorzal from Navarra in Spain makes a beautiful Garnacha that’s generally around $14. I drink so eclectically that I will never have a house wine, but if I did, it would probably be a box wine. They’ve gotten much better and are really good value.

Interview by Adam Morganstern

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